Byways Rivers & Lakes 2023

Featuring NorthAmerica’s Leading Travel Destinations

In this issue of Byways we invite you to explore some of the most captivating destinations in the United States. From the awe-inspiring Columbia River Gorge to the historic birthplace of Texas, this edition will take you on an adventure filled with breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural experiences.

Discover the Columbia River Gorge, an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise stretching for 80 miles along the majestic Columbia River. You’ll be mesmerized by the iconic Multnomah Falls and a myriad of other stunning waterfalls that dot this natural wonderland.

Immerse yourself in the vibrant communities along the banks of the Sacramento River, California’s largest river. From the outdoor recreational opportunities in Redding and Shasta Lake to the cultural experiences in Sacramento and Chico, there’s something for everyone to enjoy.

Escape to the beauty of Red Lake, Minnesota, where the Red Lake Band of Chippewa Indians has cultivated deep cultural roots for millennia. Explore the largest natural freshwater lake in Minnesota and indulge in a wide range of recreational activities amidst pristine surroundings.

Travel back in time with veteran writer Jim Leggett as he takes you on a journey to Franklin, Tennessee. Experience the whispers of ancient times as you meander through Old Town Franklin and experience the haunting echoes of the Civil War Battle of Franklin.

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ByStephenKirchner,Editor&Publisher

Uncover the rich history and stunning beauty of the Savannah River, a treasure trove of historic sites and landmarks. Discover the oldest city in Georgia, Savannah, and trace the river’s pivotal role in the city’s development, from a colonial trade route to a flourishing metropolis.

Dive into the legacy of the Potomac River, one of the most iconic rivers in the United States. Learn about its central role inAmerican history and visit George Washington's Mount Vernon, an esteemed National Historic Landmark.

Join Bill Graves as he transports you to the Birthplace of Texas, Washington-on-the Brazos, where the Republic of Texas was born. Experience the significance of this historical site on the Brazos River, now transformed into the Washington-on-the-Brazos State Park.

And don’t miss our exciting visit to the HarleyDavidson Museum, a haven for motorcycle enthusiasts and history buffs. Immerse yourself in the rich legacy of this iconic brand and get up close to legendary motorcycles, artifacts, and stories that have shapedAmerican motorcycling culture.

In this issue of Byways magazine, we invite you to journey through these extraordinary destinations and discover the magic they hold. Prepare to be inspired, captivated, and enthralled as you explore the wonders of nature and unravel the tapestry of history.

We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.

VISIT INDIANA’S TOP GROUP DESTINATION

Step into a slower pace in the heart of Northern Indiana Amish Country and experience true Hoosier Hospitality at Das Dutchman Essenhaus, located in Middlebury, Indiana.

Das Dutchman Essenhaus’ beautiful campus, located in the third largest Amish destination in the nation, features the world-famous Restaurant with family-style dining, Homestyle bakery, country shops, beautifully manicured walking paths, peaceful carriage rides, and more. Top off your Well Crafted group experience with a relaxing night’s stay at the Essenhaus Inn complete with luggage handling upon request, generously-sized guest rooms with stunning Amish-crafted furniture, in-room coffee, indoor pool, fitness center and a deluxe hot breakfast.

Experience all the sights, sounds and flavors of Fall #INElkhartCo Groups love the Fall, Food & Fun Tour in Amish Country where you tour Indiana’s largest apple orchard, see flour ground at Indiana’s oldest operating grist mill and dine in a famous retro diner. Include the popular guided Fall Treats & Color Backroads Tour along the Heritage Trail.

Learn more at VisitElkhartCounty.com/groups or call 800.262.8161

What’s Happening

Coming in Future Issues

Future issues of Byways will feature Great American Roads, Dams & Bridges, Great American Cities and more. . .

Up Next: Great American Roads

Exploring the History of Route 66. Route 66, also known as the “Mother Road”, is one of the most famous highways in the United States. Spanning over 2,500 miles, from Chicago, Illinois, to Santa Monica, California, it was one of the original U.S. highways. Right, Route 66 in downtown Tulsa. Photo courtesy. Mick Haupt on Unsplash.

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Oregon’s Columbia River Gorge is a natural wonder that draws visitors from all over the world. The Gorge, which stretches for 80 miles along the Columbia River, is an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise, offering hiking, biking, windsurfing, kayaking, and scenic drives.

But what makes the Columbia Gorge so special? Here are just a few reasons why travelers should consider a visit to this stunning destination.

The Natural Beauty

The Columbia River Gorge is a natural wonder that must be seen to be believed. The Gorge is home to dozens of waterfalls, including the iconic Multnomah Falls, which drops more than 600 feet and is one of the most photographed waterfalls in the world. Other popular falls include Horsetail Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, and Wahkeena Falls.

The Gorge is also known for its towering basalt

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cliffs, which are a result of volcanic activity that occurred millions of years ago. The cliffs, which can reach up to 4,000 feet in height, create a dramatic backdrop for the Columbia River and the surrounding landscape.

The Outdoor Recreation

Visitors to the Columbia River Gorge can enjoy a wide range of outdoor activities, from hiking and biking to windsurfing and kayaking. The Gorge boasts more than 70 miles of hiking trails, including the popular Eagle Creek Trail, which takes hikers through lush forests and past several waterfalls.

The Gorge is also a popular spot for biking, with the Historic Columbia River Highway offering stunning views of the river and surrounding mountains. For those who prefer water activities, the Gorge is a world-renowned destination for windsurfing and kiteboarding, with strong winds and calm waters making it the perfect spot for these extreme sports.

The Wine Country

The Columbia River Gorge is also home to a growing wine industry, with dozens of wineries and vineyards dotted throughout the region. The Gorge’s unique climate and soil conditions make it an ideal spot for growing grapes, and the area is known for producing high-quality wines.

Visitors to the Gorge can take a wine tour and sample some of the region’s best wines, including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling.

Historic Sites & Attractions

The Columbia River Gorge is also rich in history, with several historic sites and landmarks that tell the story of the region’s past. The Bonneville Lock and Dam, which was completed in 1938, is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Gorge. The dam is located on the Columbia River and provides hydroelectric power to the region. Visitors can take a

tour of the dam and learn about its history and operations.

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Another popular attraction is the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center and Museum, located in The Dalles, which showcases the natural and cultural history of the Gorge through interactive exhibits and displays. The Maryhill Museum ofArt is about 30 minutes away. It features art from around the world, including a large collection of NativeAmerican art and artifacts.

The Scenic Drives

For those who prefer to take in the sights from the comfort of their car, the Columbia River Gorge offers some of the most scenic drives in the country. The Historic Columbia River Highway, which was completed in 1922, is a National Historic Landmark and offers stunning views of the Gorge and its waterfalls. Another popular drive is the Hood River Fruit Loop, which takes visitors through the Gorge’s orchards and vineyards and offers the chance to sample fresh fruits and wines.

The Columbia River Gorge in Oregon is a must-visit destination for travelers who appreciate natural

beauty, outdoor recreation, history, wine, and scenic drives.

With its stunning waterfalls, towering cliffs, and world-renowned windsurfing and kiteboarding, the Gorge offers something for everyone. So pack your bags, grab your hiking boots, and head to the Columbia River Gorge for an unforgettable adventure.

Travel Oregon.com

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The Sacramento River, the largest river in California, is a major waterway that extends over 400 miles from the Klamath Mountains to the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta.

Along its banks are several major cities and attractions that are worth a visit. Here’s a guide to exploring the Sacramento River region.

Redding

Redding is an outdoor paradise, offering a wealth of natural beauty and recreational opportunities. Nestled in the heart of the state’s northernmost region, it serves as an excellent base for exploring the stunning landscapes of Northern California.

The city is home to the famous Sundial Bridge, an architectural marvel that also serves as a gateway to the extensive Sacramento River Trail system. Redding’s proximity to Lassen Volcanic National Park, Mount Shasta, and the Shasta-Trinity National Forest means that hiking, biking, fishing, boating,

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and skiing are all easily accessible.

The city’s Turtle Bay Exploration Park offers an interactive museum and botanical garden, ideal for families. Furthermore, Redding’s growing dining scene, vibrant arts community, and welcoming smalltown charm add to its appeal, making it a fantastic destination for both relaxation and adventure.

Shasta Lake

The Lake Shasta region in Northern California is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers. This beautiful area, marked by its crystal-clear lake, towering mountains, and verdant forests, offers a plethora of recreational activities.

Visitors can indulge in boating, fishing, hiking, and even exploring the numerous caves dotted around the region. The lake, which is one of the state’s largest reservoirs, is also home to Shasta Dam, an engineering marvel that offers guided tours. For a more relaxing time, the serene beaches around the

lake offer a perfect place to unwind and soak in the natural beauty.

The Sacramento River has played a significant role in the region’s development. As the largest river in California, it has been instrumental in shaping the Lake Shasta region’s landscape and economy. The river has been a crucial waterway for transport and commerce, supporting the local fishing industry and providing a lifeline for agricultural activities in the region.

The construction of the Shasta Dam across the Sacramento River during the 1940s boosted the area’s development by providing hydroelectric power

and creating a reservoir that has become a popular recreational area. The river’s abundant water supply has also facilitated the growth of local flora and fauna, making the region a biodiversity hotspot.

Visiting Lake Shasta isn’t just a journey through beautiful landscapes, it’s also a glimpse into the region’s historical and ongoing relationship with the mighty Sacramento River.

Anderson

Anderson is a charming small town that offers a tranquil retreat from the hustle and bustle of bigger cities. Located just south of Redding,Anderson is known for its beautiful parks, friendly locals, and recreational opportunities.Anderson River Park is a local gem with scenic trails, fishing opportunities, and picnic spots, providing the perfect setting for outdoor activities.

The town is also home to theAnderson Outlets, offering great shopping options. The town’s close proximity to the Sacramento River allows for a range of water activities like boating and fishing. In addition,Anderson hosts several events throughout the year, including the Mosquito Serenade, a free summer concert series. Despite its small size, Anderson’s quiet charm and scenic beauty make it a worthwhile stop on any Northern California itinerary.

Chico

Chico is a city rich with natural beauty, history, and a vibrant cultural scene, making it an appealing travel

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destination.An integral part of its charm is the Sacramento River, which played a significant role in the city's development.

This majestic river not only provides a stunning backdrop but also offers a variety of recreational activities such as fishing, boating, and wildlife observation. The city itself is home to Bidwell Park, one of the largest municipal parks in the nation, featuring hiking and biking trails, swimming spots, and picnic areas.

History enthusiasts can explore the Bidwell Mansion State Historic Park and the Chico Museum for a glimpse into the region’s past. Downtown Chico is a hub of activity with its unique boutiques, art galleries, and a variety of restaurants.Also, don’t miss a visit to the Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., a pioneer inAmerica’s craft beer industry. Chico, with its blend of nature, history, and culture, alongside the majestic Sacramento River, provides an enriching travel experience.

Sacramento

The capital city of California, Sacramento is located at the confluence of the Sacramento andAmerican Rivers.As you explore the city, you’ll find a buzzing food scene with farm-to-fork eateries, a vibrant arts

district, and historic landmarks like the California State Capitol building and the Old Sacramento Waterfront District.

The Sacramento River has played a significant role in shaping the city’s identity. It has been a crucial lifeline, providing resources for trade, agriculture, and transportation since the city’s founding. The river is not just a waterway but a vital part of the city’s landscape and lifestyle. The riverfront district is a hub of activity, with riverboat rides, riverside dining, and scenic trails for biking and walking. The annual Sacramento Music Festival is also held here, filling the air with music and bringing the riverfront to life.

The river has also influenced the city’s development and preservation efforts. The Sacramento River Parkway, a green space along the river, provides a peaceful retreat right in the city’s heart.

The preservation of wetlands around the river has also led to a diverse ecosystem, making it a haven for wildlife and bird watching. The river continues to weave its influence throughout Sacramento, shaping its past, present, and future.

The Delta

The Delta Region of California, also known as the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta, is an expansive inland river delta and estuary in Northern California. The region offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and agricultural bounty. Visitors can enjoy a variety of activities such as boating, fishing, bird watching, and exploring the numerous parks and wildlife areas. The area is also home to charming small towns with local wineries, antique shops, and farm-to-table dining experiences.

The Sacramento River has had an immense impact on the Delta Region. It converges with the San Joaquin River in the delta, creating a rich, fertile region that supports a vast array of wildlife and serves as one of the state’s most productive agricultural regions.

The river has been vital for the transport and shipping industry, connecting the Central Valley to the San Francisco Bay, and its water is a crucial resource for drinking and irrigation. Moreover, the river’s diverse habitats have made the Delta a vital

migratory route for numerous fish and bird species, contributing to the region’s biodiversity.

The Sacramento River has indelibly shaped the Delta region, making it not just a beautiful destination to visit but also an essential ecological and economic resource.

Overview

The Sacramento River region offers a variety of attractions and activities for visitors to explore. From the outdoor recreation opportunities of Redding and Shasta Lake to the rich cultural experiences of Sacramento and Chico, there’s something for everyone along the banks of the Sacramento River.

Whether you’re interested in

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history, nature, or simply want to enjoy the scenic beauty of the region, the Sacramento River is a mustvisit destination.

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Exploring its Natural Beauty and Rich Culture

Escape to the breathtaking beauty of Red Lake, Minnesota, and uncover a destination that promises an unforgettable experience for North American travelers. Nestled in the heart of the state, Red Lake offers a delightful combination of outdoor activities, cultural immersion, and picturesque landscapes that will captivate your senses.

Step into History

Before embarking on your adventure, take a moment to embrace the rich history of Red Lake. This region is home to the Red Lake Band of Chippewa Indians, who have cultivated deep cultural roots here for thousands of years. Immerse yourself in their heritage as you explore the local art, architectural wonders, and savor their traditional cuisine, all of which reflect the profound connection between the people and the land.

Nature’s Playground

Prepare to be awed by the natural attractions and outdoor activities that await you in Red Lake. The expansive Red Lake itself spans over 107,800 acres, making it the largest natural freshwater lake in

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Minnesota. Its pristine waters are a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, offering a wide range of recreational opportunities.

Fishing aficionados will be wowed by Red Lake’s renowned walleye and northern pike populations. Considered one of the best walleye fisheries in the world, this destination promises a thrilling angling experience. In winter, ice fishing takes center stage, with visitors setting up their shanties and venturing onto the frozen lake to catch their prize.

If you prefer to explore the lake by boat, numerous marinas and boat launches are available for your convenience. Cruise along the tranquil waters and allow the scenic beauty to envelop you, or join a guided tour to gain insight into the unique ecosystem and abundant wildlife that call Red Lake home.

For those seeking an up-close encounter with nature, the surrounding forests and wetlands beckon with hiking trails and birdwatching opportunities. Spot majestic bald eagles soaring overhead, observe ospreys nesting in their natural habitat, and marvel at graceful herons as they glide across the water.

The Red Lake Wildlife ManagementArea offers well-maintained trails and observation platforms, ensuring a rewarding outdoor experience for nature enthusiasts of all ages.

Cultural Immersion

Red Lake offers a vibrant cultural tapestry that invites you to learn more about the traditions of the Red Lake Band of Chippewa Indians. Attend a traditional powwow and witness the mesmerizing display of colorful regalia, rhythmic drumming, and energetic dancing.

Experience the pinnacle of cultural celebration during the annual Red Lake Nation Independence Day Celebration each July, where you’ll be immersed in a vibrant display of customs and heritage.

Throughout the year, the Red Lake Nation College hosts workshops, lectures, and demonstrations centered around traditional arts and crafts. Try your hand at beadwork or basket weaving and gain

firsthand knowledge of the community’s artistic heritage.

Unwind at Seven Clans Casino Red Lake

For a touch of excitement and entertainment, visit the Seven Clans Casino, operated by the Red Lake Band of Chippewa Indians. Located directly on the Red Lake Reservation, this intimate casino boasts over 300 gaming machines, including video slots, video poker, and video keno.

After an exciting gaming session, retreat to one of the 40 spacious hotel rooms, just steps away from the casino floor. Savor delicious breakfast, lunch, and dinner options at the Warriors Grill, ensuring your appetite is fully satisfied.

Delight in Delectable Cuisine

No visit to Red Lake would be complete without indulging in the local cuisine. Treat your taste buds to the flavors of the region by savoring mouthwatering walleye, whether caught fresh from the lake or

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expertly prepared at a nearby restaurant.

Don’t miss the chance to try NativeAmerican frybread, a delectable deep-fried treat often served with honey or used as the base for a delectable taco. Let your palate embark on a delightful culinary adventure as you sample the distinctive flavors of Red Lake.

Comfort and Convenience

Red Lake offers a range of accommodations to suit every traveler’s needs. Choose from cozy bed and breakfasts, comfortable motels, or lodges that provide a warm and inviting atmosphere. In the nearby town of Redby, you’ll find essential amenities such as grocery stores, gas stations, and a post office. For additional shopping, dining, and entertainment options, the vibrant city of Bemidji is just a scenic hour’s drive away.

Create Unforgettable Memories

Prepare for an unforgettable journey as you embark on a trip to Red Lake, Minnesota. This hidden gem

offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, outdoor adventures, and cultural immersion that will leave a lasting impression on your heart.

From its rich history to its vibrant community, and from its stunning landscapes to its captivating

experiences, Red Lake beckons you to pack your bags, grab your camera, and embark on your adventure. Your journey to this captivating Minnesota destination promises to be a remarkable experience you will long remember.

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Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves

Texas takes up more of our country than all of New England, New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Illinois combined.

In fact, it takes dawn almost an hour just to get across Texas. Athird of the way across, between Houston andAustin, dawn breaks over a place called Washington-on-the Brazos. This is where it all began for the Lone Star State.

It was here on the Brazos River, on a cold morning in March of 1836, where 59 Texans gathered to declare

The Birthplace of Texas

their independence from Mexico.

With hard drivin’, hard drinkin’Sam Houston leading the way, they signed a Declaration of Independence creating the Republic of Texas. Nine years later, Texas joined the Union as our 28th state, making it the only state that was once a country. And with due respect to my Texas friends; I think most of them think it still is.

This snippet of history – combined with knowledge of the brutal wars they victoriously fought for independence – makes it easy to understand the homegrown pride that we see in native Texans. It’s a personal thing, like a birthright that is not transferable. I think I could move to Texas, wear a

big hat and call it home, but I would be a Texan in name only.

Another thing: Texans learn in dealing with people, apparently at their mother’s knee, that the words “sir” and “ma’am” are a show of respect and open doors for those who use them. Consequently, down here most everyone does. This birthplace of the Republic is now the Washington-on-the-Brazos State Park. It’s on 293 acres, 14 miles north of the town of Brenham. I sat in an austere replica of Independence Hall while a park ranger told the story to a group of tourists on how things went down here, almost 200 years ago.

Some delegates at that meeting wanted to expand

Texas to the shores of the Pacific. Their opponents, led by Houston, eventually won out, or the folks now in New Mexico,Arizona and Southern California would be living in Texas. Considering that Texans to this day pay no state income tax, this is one

California taxpayer who has an opinion as to who on that deal came out the losers?

Leaving Independence Hall, I walked the obligatory walk to the Brazos, in the footsteps, I was told, of Davy Crockett.

At the nearby Barrington Living History Farm, circa 1850, I marveled at the stake and rail fence here. The fence stands on crossed timbers that follow a zigzag line giving the fence bull-proof integrity, and with no post holes having to be dug.

This was the home ofAnson Jones, the last president of the Republic. It fell to him to announce,“The Republic of Texas is no more”, that bittersweet day in 1846 when statehood was granted. He then retired here with his family and five slaves.

Using period techniques, costumed interpreters today raise crops along with chickens, turkeys, cattle and hogs.Appropriately, two teams of oxen do the heavy lifting and hauling.

Awashboard and hand-made wooden tubs, in the

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backyard, spoke volumes on how daily chores got done.

Jones kept a day book in which he chronicled the tasks and nature of the work at the farm. With this as their guide, the interpreters conduct themselves as did the farm’s original residents. The farm reflects the immaculate care and attention they pay to the smallest details of the period.

Their work, and that of others like them around the country, is a worthy cause – least we as a people lose touch with our heritage.

About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On theBack Roads, Discovering Small Townsof America.

He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com

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During many visits to Franklin, I am always cheered to find her old town venues harmoniously blending with recent changes. Impressive four-star 119-room pet-friendly Harpeth Hilton, The Factory’s newly opened Skylight Bar, even a former rock quarry, suddenly stealing away Nashville’s legendary music scene limelight!

“Historical awareness is a kind of resurrection”

– William Least Heat Moon.

Lazy eddies of the Harpeth River whirlpool slowly through Old Town Franklin, whispers of ancient times in every tuneful gurgle.

Sun shafts bathe an oasis of a quiet waterway where shy turtles and chattering birdlife share everlasting joys of living. Visitors, too, are enchanted by the calming songs of an ancient river once home to vanished peoples.

“The first inhabitants of Middle Tennessee belonged to a race of people called Mound Builders, because of the mounds or monuments they erected and left behind. No one knows from whence they came, how long they remained, or whither they went.”

Edward Albright History of Middle Tennessee

(1908)

More than likely, cataclysmic climate change and drought in the 1300s enforced mass migration.

Investigations by the Tennessee Department of Environmental & Conservation experts confirm “Over a thousand years ago this heavily wooded waterway hosted a vast population of Native Americans whose riverbank settlements provided both economic and religious to one of North America’s most complex native civilizations.

Recently, a kill/butchering site containing the remains of a mastodon was discovered in Middle Tennessee; it provided a date of over 13,000 years for an association of cut mastodon bones and stone tools from the site.”

Among the oldest sites for so-called Paleoindians in the New World, nearby Glass Mounds Archaeological site and 15 other NativeAmerican mounds lie within easy drive of Franklin.

Old Town, New Hotel

Pulling up at The Harpeth, downtown Franklin’s newest “Curio Collection by Hilton” I am exhausted! Drenching in a luxurious walk-in shower, change of clothes, then unwinding in the cozy 1799 Kitchen and Cocktail Restaurant/Bar. One craves cell-phone-

free-chit-banter after hectic drives, so I’m welcoming conversation with bartender, Tyler.

(Sniff; The Kempinski Hotel in Budapest bans cell phones, period, in their dining room – Hilton, take note!)

Too tired to survey the menu, “Tyler, surprise me!” I implore. (Never be shy asking staff for suggestions – culinary treats usually impress.)

Tyler’s “better-than-Bond” vodka martini – shaken, stirred? Who cares? Then, succulent UK Steelhead Trout served with crispy chickpeas, feta roasted peppers, pickled strawberry asparagus topped with Harpeth chef’s specialty sesame green goddess dressing…sheerAmbrosia!

Locals confide The Harpeth’s top shelf whiskey gantry among the best in town. Not least of which is Leiper’s Fork Bottled in Bond Tennessee Small Batch Whiskey, very smooth corn, rye and barley malt bevy.

“…is created under the same regulations set 100 years ago. Hence, you are drinking a tangible piece of history,” says Master distiller Lee Kennedy, who offers 200-year-old Still House tours, educational tastings PLUS amazing Country music venues.

Speaking of Food

An easy walk from the hotel lies Franklin’s quintessential 1930s-feel Main Street showcased by tastefully renovated Franklin Theatre, built in 1937, an assortment of right friendly taverns, plus many a worth-the-visit restaurants.

At 55 SOUTH chef Jason McConnell serves freshfrom-the Gulf Char-Grilled Oysters, smothered in zesty garlic-lemon butter. Shrimp and grits, too, proved excellent. Friendly and easy-going staff, too.

Grays on Main Drug, rustic café housed in a former drug store, boasts home-style Southern fare enjoyed in a quaint two-story restaurant, where physician’s Rx prescriptions whisper of aliments from long long ago grace the walls.

Abookshop with a soul, a not-to-be-missed Landmark Bookshop, housed in a charming brick Civil War survivor. Owner, Joel, probably to be found perusing some ancient volume on the Old

South, and “Get to know Franklin” section crammed with locally authored volumes. Treasured First Editions by Mark Twain, Hemingway, Walt Disney among Joel’s curiosities.

Civil War Melancholy

The Battle of Franklin, which saw the greatest loss of general officers, remains horrific. Ghostly echoes, chills too, haunt your every footstep.

You cannot explore historic homes, raked in Minnie ball and cannon damage – ghastly blood-stained floors preserved – without feeling deep sadness. Over 10,000American soldiers died hereabouts, hapless civilians too, during unimaginable carnage that feels like it happened just yesterday.

Historian/author Eric Jacobson escorted us through high-ceiling rooms of Rippa Villa, a lavish 98-acre plantation built, worked, by enslaved Black people. Jacobson’s no holds barred narrative vividly explains the region’s uncertain struggles, and political chaos –as incendiary then as today.

On November 30th 1864 gathered in Rippa’s rooms, red-faced Confederate officers breakfasted in uproar, showering blame after – the night before – 20.000 Union troops slipped past their picket lines, deeply influencing the infamous Battle – make that massacre – of Franklin.

The hellish fight comes to life in stately rooms of the Carter House and nearby Lotz Houses, too, whose high-ceilinged parlors made makeshift operating rooms, and mangled youths and grizzled men lay piled atop one another – crying out for their mothers.

Nashville Move Over

NewAmphitheater’s in town!

“Swanky little gravel pit you’ve got here.” Steve Miller

Exploring a reclaimed gravel quarry invisible from major highways, I hardly expected to be stunned. And, swanky is no exaggeration.

FirstBankAmphitheater boasts a world-class concert stage and seating for 7,500. There are private VIP boxes, also a luxuriously appointed performers lounge.

The entire complex is quite invisible from adjacent highways. The stage is set picturesquely surrounded by manicured woodlands in Romanesque Colosseum splendor, almost. Food courts and assorted themed bars assure relaxed concert enjoyment.

The stage-side musician’s green room’s walls are decked with performer-signed guitars, eventually to be auctioned for charities.

Future playbills include Willie Nelson and his “Outlaw Music Festival”, The Doobie Brothers, Smashing Pumpkins, Chicago The Band. Tennessee’s Music City In The Country. To which I wangled a coveted all-access pass.

PS. Did you know TENNESSEE, from the Cherokee language, is named after an ingenious village; Tanasse, also spelled Tennese?

info@visitfranklin.com

leipersforkdistillery.com

firstbankampitheater.com harpethhotel.com

About the Author

Photojournalist Jim Leggett, a native of Scotland, is based in North Carolina, and Nassau, Bahamas. His passions include steamships, motorcycles, open cockpit flying, and whiskey, in moderation. He is also a veteran pipe band drummer.

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The Savannah River a boasts a rich history, stunning natural beauty, and a diverse array of outdoor activities. Whether you’re a history buff or an outdoor enthusiast, there’s plenty to enjoy along the banks of the Savannah River.

History

For those interested in history, the Savannah River is a treasure trove of historic sites and landmarks. One of the most popular destinations is the city of Savannah, Georgia. Known for its well-preserved historic district and beautiful antebellum architecture, Savannah is a must-visit for anyone interested in American history. Take a stroll through the city’s picturesque squares, visit the birthplace of Juliette Gordon Low (the founder of the Girl Scouts), or explore the historic Bonaventure Cemetery.

Another popular historic site along the Savannah River is theAugusta Canal National HeritageArea. This historic canal was built in the 19th century and played a crucial role in the industrial development of

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the region. Today, visitors can take a boat tour of the canal, explore the historic mills and factories that line its banks, and learn about the canal’s role in shaping the history of the region.

Savannah

Savannah is the oldest city in the state of Georgia and is the county seat of Chatham County. Established in 1733 on the Savannah River, the city of Savannah became the British colonial capital of the Province of Georgia and later the first state capital of Georgia.

Savannah is a charming Southern city that is known for its history, architecture, and stunning natural beauty. It’s a popular travel destination for people who enjoy exploring historical districts, visiting museums, and spending time outdoors.

One of the city’s standout features is its historic district, which is one of the largest National Historic Landmark Districts in the United States. This area is full of beautifully preserved 18th and 19th-century

architecture, lush urban squares, and a variety of shops and restaurants that can be explored on foot or by horse-drawn carriage.

The Savannah River has played a crucial role in the city’s development. The river was used as a trade route during Savannah's founding in the 18th century, which helped the city grow and prosper. Today, the riverfront area is a bustling hub of activity with restaurants, boutiques, and galleries that attract both locals and tourists. The Savannah Riverwalk is a popular spot for leisurely strolls, and riverboat cruises are a fun way to see the city from a different perspective.

The city is also known for its vibrant arts scene, with many galleries, theaters, and art festivals happening throughout the year. The Telfair Museums, which include the Jepson Center for theArts, the Telfair Academy, and the Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters, offer a wide range of artistic and historical exhibits.

For nature lovers, the Coastal Georgia Botanical Gardens and the Savannah National Wildlife Refuge provide opportunities to explore the area’s natural beauty.

Each year, Savannah attracts millions of visitors to its cobblestone streets, parks, and notable historic

buildings. Savannah’s downtown area includes the Savannah Historic District, its 22 park-like squares, and the Savannah Victorian Historic District.

Augusta

Augusta, Georgia, fondly known as the Garden City, is a charming Southern city that offers a mix of history, culture, and recreation.As a travel destination, Augusta provides a unique blend of traditional Southern charm and modern city fun.

One of the most significant historical landmarks inAugusta is theAugusta Canal National HeritageArea where you can experience firsthand the city’s industrial past. The canal was built in 1845 and is directly tied to the city’s development along the Savannah River.

The Savannah River plays a critical role inAugusta’s development. The river has been a life source for the city since its establishment in 1736. The river

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provided a means of transportation for goods and people, and it was used to power mills during the

industrial era. Today, the river continues to play a significant role in the city’s economy and lifestyle, providing recreational activities such as boating, fishing, and kayaking.

Augusta’s downtown area also offers a variety of attractions, from art galleries, boutiques, diverse cuisine, and a lively music scene. The city is also home to theAugusta Museum of History, Morris Museum ofArt, and the historic Imperial Theatre.

Moreover,Augusta is famous worldwide for hosting the Masters golf tournament atAugusta National Golf Club every spring. This event draws golf enthusiasts from around the globe.

For nature lovers, the Phinizy Swamp Nature Park and theAugusta Riverwalk, which runs along the Savannah River, offer beautiful scenery and trails.

Outdoor Recreation

In addition to its rich history, the Savannah River also offers a wide range of outdoor activities. Fishing is a popular pastime along the river, with a variety of fish species, including bass, catfish, and crappie, inhabiting its waters. There are also many parks and trails along the river that offer hiking, biking, and wildlife viewing opportunities. The Savannah National Wildlife Refuge is a particularly beautiful destination, with over 30,000 acres of wetlands, forests, and grasslands to explore.

For those who prefer water-based activities, there are plenty of options along the Savannah River. Boating and kayaking are popular pastimes, with several boat ramps and rental facilities located along the river. The Savannah River also offers some of the best whitewater rafting in the region, with rapids ranging from Class II to Class IV.

Scenic Beauty

One of the most striking features of the Savannah River is its natural beauty. The river winds through lush forests and wetlands, offering

stunning views of the surrounding landscape. There are many scenic overlooks and viewpoints along the river that offer sweeping vistas of the river and its surroundings. One of the best ways to experience the beauty of the Savannah River is to take a scenic drive along its banks. The Savannah River Scenic Byway is a 170-mile route that winds through some of the most beautiful parts of the region, offering stunning views of the river and its surroundings.

Local Cuisine

No trip to the Savannah River region would be complete without sampling some of the delicious local cuisine. The area is known for its fresh seafood, southern barbecue, and low-country cuisine, which blends traditional southern dishes with European and African influences. Many restaurants and cafes along the river offer delicious local dishes that are sure to satisfy your taste buds. Some must-try dishes include shrimp and grits, she-crab soup, and fried green tomatoes.

Summary

The Savannah River is a unique and beautiful destination that offers something for every visitor. Whether you’re interested in history, outdoor recreation, or simply want to enjoy the natural beauty of the region, the Savannah River is a must-visit destination. With its rich history, stunning natural beauty, and delicious local cuisine, the Savannah River is a true hidden gem in the southeastern United States.

https://visitsavannah.com

https://www.visitaugusta.com

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The Potomac River, spanning over 400 miles from theAppalachian Mountains to the Chesapeake Bay, holds a place of distinction as one of the most iconic rivers in the United States.

Its historical significance and diverse attractions make it a destination that appeals to a wide range of interests. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, an outdoor adventurer, or simply seeking relaxation amidst nature’s splendor, the Potomac River offers something for everyone.

Immersed in History

With its central role inAmerican history, the Potomac River boasts a rich past. It served as a vital transportation route during the colonial period and the Civil War.Among the most renowned historic sites along its banks is George Washington’s Mount Vernon, a National Historic Landmark situated just south ofAlexandria, Virginia. This estate was once

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home to the first U.S. president and continues to captivate visitors with its remarkable legacy.

Exploring Washington, DC

As the Potomac River flows through the heart of the nation’s capital, Washington, DC, there are countless ways to experience its charm. The National Mall offers an excellent vantage point from which to view the river, whether you’re admiring it from the Lincoln Memorial or enjoying a paddleboat ride on the Tidal Basin. Georgetown, a historic neighborhood nestled along the Potomac River, entices visitors with its assortment of restaurants, shops, and waterfront parks.

Great Falls Park

For those venturing outside of Washington, DC, Great Falls Park is an absolute must-visit destination within the Potomac River region. This remarkable park presents breathtaking views of the river and its

awe-inspiring waterfalls, accompanied by hiking trails and picturesque picnic areas. Visitors can also indulge in kayaking and fishing adventures on the river.

Harper’s Ferry

Situated at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, Harper’s Ferry is a historic town that played a pivotal role in the Civil War. Today, it enthralls both history enthusiasts and outdoor lovers alike. Take a stroll through the town’s captivating historic district or embark on a scenic hike along the nearbyAppalachian Trail.

Discover Alexandria, Virginia

Located just south of Washington, DC,Alexandria is a delightful city steeped in history and renowned for its flourishing arts and culture scene. The city’s waterfront, which hugs the Potomac River, features an enticing blend of restaurants, shops, and serene parks. Visitors can also embark on a boat tour of the river or rent a kayak or paddle board for a more personal adventure.

Journey to Mount Vernon

Nestled on the banks of the Potomac River, Mount Vernon was once home to George Washington.

Avisit to this historic site allows you to explore the grand mansion, wander through lush gardens, and gain insights into Washington’s remarkable life and legacy.

National Harbor

Just south of Washington, DC, lies National Harbor, a waterfront development boasting an array of shops, restaurants, and entertainment options. The Capital Wheel, a towering 180-foot Ferris wheel, offers panoramic views of the river and the iconic DC skyline, making it a captivating experience for visitors.

Outdoor Adventures

The Potomac River beckons outdoor enthusiasts with its vast array of recreational activities. Fishing is a popular pastime, with the river teeming with various species such as bass, catfish, and trout. Numerous parks and trails line the river, offering opportunities for invigorating hikes, exhilarating bike rides, and wildlife observation.

Water-Based Delights

Water-based activities abound on the Potomac River, catering to those seeking aquatic adventures. Boating and kayaking are popular pursuits, with convenient

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boat ramps and rental facilities dotted along the riverbanks. The Potomac River is also renowned for its exceptional whitewater rafting, ranging from Class II to Class V rapids. Guided rafting trips offered by experienced outfitters promise unforgettable thrills for adventurous souls.

Spectacular Scenery

The natural beauty of the Potomac River is truly awe-inspiring.As it meanders through lush forests, rolling hills, and rugged terrain, it presents captivating vistas of the surrounding landscape. Several scenic overlooks and viewpoints along the river provide panoramic views that capture the majesty of the Potomac and its surroundings. Embarking on a scenic drive along the riverbanks is a fantastic way to fully immerse yourself in this captivating beauty. The Potomac Heritage National Scenic Trail, spanning 710 miles, offers a route that winds through the most breathtaking parts of the region, revealing unparalleled views of the river and its surroundings.

Delight in Local Cuisine

No visit to the Potomac River region would be complete without savoring the delectable local cuisine. The area is known for its abundance of fresh seafood, including Maryland blue crabs, oysters, and rockfish. Restaurants and cafes along the riverbanks present a wide array of dishes, ranging from Southern-style barbecue to international cuisine and farm-to-table fare. Don’t miss the opportunity to indulge in must-try delicacies such as crab cakes, Old Bay seasoning, and Chesapeake Bay oysters.

Summary

Whether you’re captivated by history, yearning for outdoor adventures, or seeking to bask in the region’s natural allure, a visit to the Potomac River is an absolute must. With its rich historical significance, breathtaking natural beauty, and tantalizing local cuisine, the Potomac River stands as a true gem in the mid-Atlantic region of the United States.

Nestled in the heart of Milwaukee, Wisconsin, the Harley-Davidson Museum is a must-visit destination for motorcycle enthusiasts and history buffs alike. This iconic museum offers an immersive experience through the rich history of Harley-Davidson, showcasing its legendary motorcycles, artifacts, and stories that have shaped American motorcycling culture. Learn the extraordinary world of Harley-Davidson and explore this magnificent museum in the city where it all began.

A Brief History of Harley-Davidson in Wisconsin

The story of Harley-Davidson unfolds in Milwaukee over a century ago, in a small wooden shed. It was here that William S. Harley andArthur Davidson built their first prototype in 1903. Joined byArthur’s brothers, Walter and William, the team set out to create a motorized bicycle that would revolutionize transportation.As their motorcycles gained popularity, the company expanded its production facilities, eventually moving to a larger factory in 1906. Today, Harley-Davidson stands as a symbol of freedom and theAmerican spirit, with its

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headquarters still proudly located in Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

The Harley-Davidson Museum

displaying over 450 motorcycles and thousands of artifacts dating back to the company’s inception. From the oldest known Harley-Davidson motorcycle, “Serial Number One”, to the latest cutting-edge

famous “Hill Climber” motorcycle. This awe-inspiring entrance sets the stage for the remarkable journey you’re about to embark on.

Upon entering the museum, you’ll be immersed in the history and heritage of Harley-Davidson. The museum’s collection is spread across 20 galleries,

that has driven the brand’s success for over a century. The Custom Culture gallery celebrates the artistry and creativity of motorcycle customization, displaying some of the most iconic and unique motorcycles, including the famous “Captain America” bike from the movie “Easy Rider”.

For those interested in the company’s military

history, the museum features a dedicated exhibit showcasing Harley-Davidson’s contribution to both World Wars. You’ll learn about the brand’s role in producing military motorcycles and how their involvement helped shape the modern-day HarleyDavidson.

Avisit to the Harley-Davidson Museum wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the Experience Gallery. Here, you’ll have the opportunity to sit on various Harley-Davidson motorcycles and imagine hitting the open road. Don’t forget to snap a picture to capture the moment!

Additional Attractions and Amenities

Beyond the museum’s galleries, there are several additional attractions and amenities to make your visit memorable. TheArchives and Restoration Center offers a rare behind-the-scenes look at the meticulous care and preservation of the museum’s collection.

The on-site restaurant, MOTOR Bar & Restaurant, serves up deliciousAmerican classics, while the Can

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Room offers a more casual dining experience surrounded by vintage Harley-Davidson gas tanks.

Before you leave, be sure to stop by The Shop, the museum’s retail store, to pick up exclusive merchandise and souvenirs to commemorate your visit.

Summary

Avisit to the Harley-Davidson Museum in Milwaukee is a unique opportunity to explore the history and heritage of one ofAmerica’s most iconic brands.

From the humble beginnings in a wooden shed to the world-renowned motorcycles we know today, the museum offers a captivating journey through the evolution of Harley-Davidson. Whether you’re a motorcycle enthusiast, a history buff, or simply looking for an unforgettable experience, the HarleyDavidson Museum is a must-see destination in Milwaukee.

https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/museum. html

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