Gastronome Extra! Summer 2018 by Chaîne des Rôtisseurs

SUMMER 2018

Regions YOUNG CHEFS & YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITIONS

Bailliages LOCAL EVENTS

Members NEWS & AWARDS

Philanthropy FOUNDATION FRIENDS

CONTENTS

3 A Message from the Editor-in-Chief • 4 Calendar • 5 Letter from the President Philanthropy :: 6 Foundation Friends 7 Remembering Shelly Awards & Honors :: 8 Awards, Anniversaries, New Officers, and In Memoriam Members :: 9 Members in the News Culinary Colloquy :: 10 Cork Dork Regions :: Youngs Sommeliers and Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competitions: 11 Far West • 12 Hawaii/Pacific Islands • 13 Mid-Atlantic • 14 Hawaii/Pacific Islands • 16 Northeast • 18 Southeast Bailliages :: 20 Events: Albany • Atlanta • Austin • Buffalo • Cincinnati • Colonial New England • Delaware Valley Des Moines • Étoile Solitaire • Fort Lauderdale • Fort Worth • Galveston • Kansas City • Lacs et des Bois Peachtree • Philadelphia • Portland, Maine • San Antonio • Scottsdale • Springfield • Triangle

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

LETTER

A Message from the Editor-in-Chief Spring has sprung with our many regional Young Sommeliers and Young Chefs Rôtisseurs competitions in full bloom. For most organizations, the enormous amount of work it takes from our esteemed baillis provinciaux, national officers, Chaîne chefs, judges, local affiliates, and regional presses would be overwhelming, but not for the Chaîne USA! Read about these fantastic team efforts and the young people who have capped honors and advanced to compete in our national events (coverage will appear in Gastronome Volume 2 2018). With the passing of Grand Officier Commandeur Sheldon Margolis—Membre, Conseil d’Honneur, Chaîne Foundation Chair Emeritus, and Grand Echanson Honoraire—we have indeed lost a force, a friend, and a grand historian of la Chaîne. A video tribute to Shelly, orchestrated by Napa-Sonoma Bailli Honoraire Gene Daly, was shown at the National Mondiale Weekend in Paso Robles in May. Find our tribute to Shelly on page 7. How about packing a tasty read into your picnic basket? Check out Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli Marshall Berenson’s book review in Culinary Colloquy. You have asked, and so we are introducing a new section in GE! called “Members in the News.” We happily launch it with a delightful photo of one of our devoted dames and her new husband from the Naples Bailliage. We are always aiming for the heights in our publications, and we thank all of our regional chargés de presse for their hard work, continued attention to detail, and team spirit. Best regards,

Marie C. Addario Editor-in-Chief, Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! Vice Chargée de Presse National

Letters to the Editor-in-Chief may be sent to presse@chaineus.org OR c/o the Chaîne House at Fairleigh Dickinson University, 285 Madison Avenue, Madison, NJ 07940.

SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

CALENDAR

CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS

GASTRONOME Extra! Summer 2018

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

2018

Marie Addario

JUNE 9-11

PUBLISHER

SOUTH CENTRAL REGIONAL MONDIALE WEEKEND Asheville, North Carolina Contact: Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh at (917) 612-6714 or wahirsh@aol.com

Michelle Metter

ART & DESIGN

artattack!creative

14-17

INTERNATIONAL GENERAL ASSEMBLY Paris, France Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or visit national website: www.chaineus.org

MANAGING EDITOR

Carolyn March

23-24

MID-ATLANTIC REGIONAL MONDIALE EVENT Philadelphia, Pennsylvania Contact: Bailli Provincial John Fannin III at (302) 530-0259 or john.fannin@chainemidatlantic.org

JULY 14

periodical may be reproduced without

“DINNER OF THE CENTURY” Cohosted by the American Academy of Chefs and the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs New Orleans, Louisiana Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or visit national website: www.chaineus.org

the permission of the publisher.

CONNECT TO

GASTRONOME

OCTOBER 4-7

U.S. GRAND CHAPITRE Seattle, Washington Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or visit national website: www.chaineus.org

NOVEMBER 8-11

CARIBBEAN/ATLANTIC ISLANDS AND SOUTHEAST JOINT REGIONAL CHAPITRE Jamaica Contact: C/AI Bailli Provincial Alan Feuerstein at (340) 690-3221 or fsllpvi@aol.com or SE Bailli Provincial Susan Vareschi at (239) 495-1751 or slvareschi@msn.com

ON THE COVER: Photo by Andi Morgenthaler.

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

LETTER

Letter from the President Dear Chaîne Members, Our National Mondiale Weekend and Young Sommeliers Competition in Paso Robles, California, was great fun. We had 11 very talented young sommeliers compete, and Jeremy Shanker of Michael Mina in San Francisco was the winner. Congratulations to Jeremy and all the young sommeliers that competed; you are all winners and we are very proud of you. Thank you to Grand Echanson Joe D’Ambrosio for a job well done and to Vice Echanson National Geoff Labitzke for a competition well run! Close on its heels was our National Culinary Weekend in Charleston, South Carolina. We had 10 very talented young chefs that competed, and Logan Christensen of the Bellerive Country Club in St. Louis, Missouri, was the winner. Congratulations to Logan and all the young chefs that competed. Kelsee Newman of Cincinnati State Technical and Community College won the National Pastry Competition, and J. Scott Jeffries won the first-ever Military Chefs Competition. We are very proud of our winners and all competitors! Thank you to Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National Reimund Pitz for creating a wonderful weekend for members and a great competition. Thank you also to Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National, Competitions Michael Ty for a stellar competition and Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National, Militaires Rene Marquis for all that you did. These National Weekends, as with our Grand Chapitre and Regional Chapitres, provide terrific travel opportunities for members; ask anyone that attended either of these recent national weekends. Look for registration materials for the Grand Chapitre in Seattle, Washington, from October 4-7 as they will be transmitted at about the time this issue of Gastronome Extra! is distributed. Register early as we expect sellouts of all activities. Bailliage events are growing in number and quality, and more are listed on the calendar on our national website every week. New bailliages have been formed and others are in formation. When you travel, look for opportunities to meet other “Chaîne family members” at local events. Also, regional Mondiale events are scheduled in Asheville, North Carolina, and in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, this month. Check them out as you may want to attend. Registration materials are accessible on the national website. Service awards are recognized in each issue of Gastronome Extra! Check out page 8 for a listing of those that received recognition since the last issue. And, thank you to all our officers for all that you do for our members. As with prior issues, we recognize in this issue the members we have lost. Our most decorated member was among them, and he is celebrated in this issue; more than 50 years of membership, a member of both the national and international Conseils d’Honneur, and too many titles and awards to mention. Shelly Margolis was a friend and mentor of mine and to many others. Share the Chaîne with a friend or family member. And, participate, enjoy, and have fun. Vive la Chaîne!

Harold S. Small Bailli Délégué SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

FOUNDATION FRIENDS

Endowments L Marie & Dominick Addario Endowed Fund L L Clyde Braunstein Endowed Fund L L Barbara & John Burson Endowed Fund L L Robert & Nadine Pressner Endowed Fund L L Barbara & Irwin Weinberg Endowed Fund L

Annual Gifts Bruce Bailey

George Elliott

Michael Kalkstein

Simeon Roldan

Judith Bardwick

Ira Falk

Matthew Karstetter

Mark Rowe

Michael Belsley

Ray Farris II

Ronald Katz

William Salomon

Charles Bennett

Leo Flischel & The Greater Cincinnati Foundation

Judith Kellogg

Harold & Susan Small

Cheryl Kenny

Mont Stern

Karl Krout

Bryan & Jeanne Stirrat

Jill Kummer

Deidra & Ronald Stitch

Harry Bradbury

Susan Flischel & The Greater Cincinnati Foundation

James Burr Barbara & John Burson

Allen Frederic, Jr.

Helen & Andrew Cappuccino

Lois Ferrero Gogol

Jane Mathis

Dennis & Sally Swanson

Keith & Young Chappell

David Greenlee

J.T. Mayer

Joan & David Szkutak

Cincinnati Bailliage

Stephen & Tami Gross

Theo Mellion

Joe & Julie Tilton

Bert Cutino

Stephanie & Jack Harkness

Robert Miller

Michael Ty

Eugene Daly

Hospitality Culinaire, Inc.

Sandra & Thomas Moran

Susan & William Vareschi

Bertrand de Boutray

Lee Huang

Maurice Nicholson

David Weinberg

Delaware Valley Bailliage

Tyrie Jenkins

George Norcross

Renee Wilmeth

William Eckerle

Bill Joy

Allison Reams

David Wilson

NOTE: Endowments of $10,000 or more will be maintained as principal with only yearly income supporting the purposes of the Foundation. Donors will be acknowledged in perpetuity. Donations received after May 15, 2018 will be included in the next issue of Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! 6

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

Remembering Shelly GENEROUS IN NATURE, robust of personality, and fun-loving, Sheldon (Shelly) Margolis was a resplendent force within la Chaîne. His passing in December saddened our global community, and he will be remembered especially for his charm, ease of style, and natural ability to bring out the best in people. Both a striking individualist and a team player, Shelly melded those traits to enhance any organization in which he took part. Along with his wife, Harriet, he operated Margolis Wine & Spirits in Pennsylvania from 1964 to 1999. Through his many friendships with industry icons such as Robert Mondavi, John Mariani (Castello Banfi), and Brown-Forman (Jack Daniels), he made Pennsylvania one of the largest convention and hospitality purchasers of wines and spirits worldwide and was named Ambassador

of Philadelphia by then-Mayor Ed Rendell. Dedicated to expanding economic opportunities for hospitality industry professionals, Shelly was a formidable contributor to the Naples Wine Auction and the arts in Philadelphia. His service to la Chaîne was tireless, and he held the titles Membre, Conseil d’Honneur, Grand Officier Commandeur, Foundation Chair Emeritus, and Grand Echanson Honoraire. He and Harriet traveled the world of la Chaîne and formed lasting friendships at home and abroad. Shelly always wore his ribbons and pins majestically and made those around him feel proud to be fellow members of la Chaîne. G SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

AWARDS, HONORS & MEDALS

CHAÎNE STARS of EXCELLENCE GOLD ��

In Memoriam

MICHAEL TY, Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National, Competitions (Las Vegas Bailliage) SILVER �� WILMER L. CARROLL, San Antonio Vice Chancelier-Argentier RENE MARQUIS, Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National, Militaires (Tampa Sun Coast Bailliage) PAUL SCHULZE, Mid-Atlantic Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial (Philadelphia Bailliage)

RICHARD L. BARNES, Hillsborough Officier WILLIAM T. DICUS, Milwaukee Chevalier ALBERT O. ECK, JR. Springfield Vice ChancelierArgentier Honoraire JOSEPH L. FORSTADT, New York Chevalier ELIZABETH M. GUINN, San Antonio Dame de la Chaîne GUY J. JORDAN, Salt Lake City Chevalier

DENNIS G. SHAY, Austin Bailli

JEAN A. KILGORE, Greenville Dame de la Chaîne

JAMES D. WALLICK, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/New

GORDON K. KONRAD, New Orleans Professionnel du Vin

York Bailli

MARILYN O. LAROCQUE, Far West Chargée de Presse

BRONZE �� DONALD T. BALL, Triangle Maître de Table Restaurateur

Provincial/Las Vegas Vice Chargée de Presse IRMGARD LIPCON, Vail Dame de la Chaîne

MICHAEL CARMEL, Charleston Chef Rôtisseur

KATHRYN LOUGHRAN, Hillsborough Dame de la Chaîne

THOMAS A. HANNUM, Mid-Atlantic Conseiller Culinaire Provincial

SHELDON B. MARGOLIS, Membre, Conseil d’Honneur,

(First State Bailliage) CONRAD C. HEEDE, Fort Worth Vice Chancelier-Argentier LISA K. JOHNSON, Atlantic City Vice Chargée de Presse JANINA V. LOIRE, Silicon Valley Bailli

Foundation Chair Emeritus, Grand Echanson Honoraire (Delaware Valley Bailliage) SUE A. PETERSON, Kansas City Vice ChancelierArgentier Honoraire

SAM MAZZARRA, Silicon Valley Chevalier

IRVING L. ROSEN, New Orleans Vice Echanson Honoraire

TARYN R. MCBRIDE, Naples Vice Conseiller Gastronomique

CYNTHIA L. SCHRAMM, Lake Shore Officier FRED W. SEYMOUR, JR., San Antonio Chevalier CHARLES D. STRONG, Salt Lake City Chevalier

MONDIALE MEDALS OF HONOR SILVER �� JOSEPH J. D’AMBOSIO, Grand Echanson (New York Bailliage) GEOFFREY LABITZKE, Vice Echanson National (NapaSonoma Bailliage)

BRILLAT-SAVARIN MEDALS MÉDAILLE DE MÉRITE �� KEITH COUGHENOUR, Pittsburgh Maître Rôtisseur

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

GEORGE M. YEAGER, New York Chevalier

AWARDS, HONORS & MEDALS

CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR NEWEST REGIONAL OFFICERS AND BAILLIS REGIONAL OFFICERS �� ALLISON M. AHRENS, Southwest Chambellan Provincial/Denver Mile High Bailli KARL M. FOSTER, Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Conseiller Culinaire Provincial (Virgin Islands Bailliage) PAUL M. KOULOGEORGE, Mid-Atlantic Chargé de Presse Provincial (Philadelphia Bailliage) LAURA E. WALSH, Far West Chargée de Presse Provincial (Palm Springs Bailliage) BAILLIS �� LYNETTE SAVAGE, Tulsa Bailli WILLIAM WECKER, Jackson Hole Bailli

Happy Anniversary! Bailliages Celebrating Milestone Anniversaries in 2018 …… 50 YEARS ……

…… 40 YEARS ……

…… 30 YEARS ……

Las Vegas (formerly Nevada) Lehigh Valley

Albany Anchorage (formerly Alaska) Hawaii Island Miami Beach Mid-Hudson at the Culinary Institute of America

Austin Grand Cayman Greenville Mayagüez Nassau Sacramento Santa Fe

Thank you for your years of honoring the art of cuisine, preserving the camaraderie and culture of the table, promoting excellence in all areas of hospitality, and encouraging the development of young chefs and sommeliers.

MEMBERS IN THE NEWS APRIL 21, 2018, NAPLES

SOUTHEAST CONSEILLER GASTRONOMIQUE Provincial Honoraire Lacey King and Chevalier Alan Goodridge tied the knot in a special ceremony officiated by Naples Mayor Bill Barnett and orchestrated by Bailli Roger Weatherburn-Baker during the Naples Bailliage’s celebration of World Chaîne Day on a sunset dinner cruise on the Naples Princess. G

SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

CULINARY COLLOQUY

BY MARSHALL L. BERENSON, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli

Cork Dork, by Bianca Bosker WINE LOVERS WILL attest to there being an “aha moment” when the passion for wine was stirred within them. Maybe it was a special learning opportunity from a mentor; a magical bottle shared among friends; or a glass of an elixir so exquisite that it triggered the realization that this ambrosia is worthy of passionate pursuit. Award-winning journalist Bianca Bosker’s “aha moment” led her to write Cork Dork—a well-crafted story (with good acid balance, moderate minerality, and high alcohol) that recounts her adventures as a sommelier in training. Bosker’s work has appeared in the Atlantic, New York Times Style Magazine, New Yorker Online, and Wall Street Journal. Her style is straightforward and no-nonsense, with a hint of sarcasm, while her prior work on architectural mimicry in China gives a structurally sound, educated bent to her prose. Bosker’s epiphany occurred while dining with a serious wine aficionado in a mid-town Manhattan restaurant. Her dinner partner’s conversation with the sommelier about the qualities of a bordeaux piqued her journalistic interest. Sommeliers are a distinct animal, and the how and why of their trade is a complicated trail. The word derives from the Middle French term soumelier, meaning “one responsible for transporting supplies.” Over time, it evolved to mean a purveyor of beverages generally and wine specifically. A suspicious eye may have been cast upon this vocation following the French Revolution (perhaps due to royal associations with the warehousing of wine), but the trade flourished, and by the twentieth century, the almost mystical blending of nature and alembic alchemy in viniculture led to sommeliers being in high demand. Cork Dork beautifully describes Bosker’s quest for oenophilic knowledge. Beginning with secret sommelier clubs of “masochistic hedonists” tasting wines day and night, engaging in “blood sport with corkscrews,” her story provides a close-up of the sacrifices young somms make in pursuit of the perfect palate. Trailing sommeliers in high-end Manhattan restaurants and at myriad tastings, she meticulously trains her palate and senses. Exploring human physiological traits and cutting-edge research, she travels far and wide, researching in the pursuit of her ultimate goal—passing Level 1 of the Certified Sommelier Exam. Anyone who loves wine can see themselves in the book. Professionals in the trade and serious collectors can learn, as can novices who struggle to discern bottle from box. We all should aspire to be cork dorks. Vive la Chaîne! G

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

REGIONS

CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR NATIONAL COMPETITION WINNERS NATIONAL YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION

NATIONAL PASTRY COMPETITION

WINNER: Jeremy Shanker, Pacific Northwest

WINNER: Kelsee Newman, Midwest

SECOND PLACE: Andrea Morris, Northeast

SECOND PLACE: Zebulon Berry, South Central

THIRD PLACE: Micah Clark, Pacific Northwest

THIRD PLACE: Heidi Kabath, Mid-Atlantic

NATIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION

NATIONAL MILITARY CHEFS COMPETITION WINNER: J. Scott Jeffries, U.S. Coast Guard

WINNER: Logan M. Christensen, Midwest (also Best Dessert) SECOND PLACE: Shaylyn Funasaki, Hawaii/Pacific Islands THIRD PLACE: Rebecca Laurence, Southeast

FAR WEST REGIONAL YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION

Wine Contest at Big Canyon BY LAURA WALSH, Far West Chargée de Presse Provincial

UNDER THE AUSPICES of Vice Echanson National Geoff Labitzke, MW, the Far West Regional Young Sommeliers Competition was held at Big Canyon Country Club in Newport Beach on April 16. Vice Echanson National Labitzke was joined by fellow judges Echanson Provincial Chick Marshall and the club’s beverage director, Steven Poe, MS. The two competitors were Timothy David Sorek and Richard Nielsen. First, the sommeliers were given thirty minutes to evaluate six pre-poured wines while the judges looked on. The wines were Château Ste. Michelle Riesling Columbia Valley 2016; Château Brown Grand Vin de Graves Pessac-Leognan 2015; Simonnet-Febvre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2015; Château Lagrange St.-Julien 2015; Pascual Toso Reserva Malbec 2015; and Enrico Serafino Barolo 2013. Then, with the judges seated at a dining table, each performed four service tests: wine list correction; sparkling wine service and questions; red wine decanting and service with questions; and wine recommendations from specific sections of a menu. Following the contest, the judges convened to select the winner. Mr. Sorek took top honors and advanced to the National Young Sommeliers Competition in Paso Robles in May. G

Vice Echanson National Geoff Labitzke, MW, Bailli Provincial Phil Kress, winner Timothy David Sorek, competitor Richard Nielsen, Echanson Provincial Chick Marshall, and Big Canyon Country Club Beverage Director Steven Poe, MS.

Big Canyon Country Club Beverage Director Steven Poe, MS, Echanson Provincial Chick Marshall, and Vice Echanson National Geoff Labitzke, MW.

SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

REGIONS PHOTOS BY MIRELLA MONOSCALCO

HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS REGIONAL YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION

Celebrating Young Wine Experts Competitor Ariana Tsuchiya, winner Thoger Petry, competitor Michael Winterbottom, Dame Cheryl Dickerson, Luz Gutierrez, Certified Sommelier/Echanson Provincial Micah Suderman, and Vice Echanson National Geoff Labitzke.

Kauai/Oahu confrères: Bailli Hon. Kathryn Nicholson, Vice Echanson Ann Greenlee, Certified Sommelier/Echanson Provincial Micah Suderman, Bailli John Magauran, and Dame Uli Cutter.

Kauai/Oahu Bailli Hon. Mark Monoscalco, Chambellan Provincial Judith Kellogg, and Bailli Provincial Maurice Nicholson.

Executive Chef/Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Colin Hazama.

Kauai/Oahu confrères: Vice Chancelier-Argentier Diana Wehrly, Bailli Hon. Mark Monoscalco, Chargé de Presse Provincial David Greenlee, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Mirella Monoscalco, and Vice Echanson Ann Greenlee.

Vice Echanson National Geoff Labitzke, Certified Sommelier/Echanson Provincial Micah Suderman, Halekulani Hotel Sommelier Sean Osono, and Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants Vice President Charles Fredy.

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

BY DAVID GREENLEE, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chargé de Presse Provincial

THE HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS Regional Young Sommeliers Competition at the Royal Hawaiian Resort on March 16 was rigorous, with three talented young sommeliers vying to represent the region in the national competition. They were tasked with a blind tasting, a service Royal Hawaiian Resort test, and a theory test, March 16, 2018 mirroring the challenges SPRING VEGETABLE SALAD posed at the national Black Garlic-Sesame Emulsion Leth Grüner Veltliner Steinagrund 2015 level. Vice Echanson National Geoff Labitzke BUTTER-POACHED KAMPACHI AND SCALLOP led the panel of experiSmoked Negi Dashi enced judges. Assisting Brewer-Clifton Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay 2015 him were Kauai/ Oahu Bailli Honoraire PRIME FILET MIGNON Ho Farms Tomato, Maui Onion Mark Monoscalco Confit, Lemon-Asparagus Coulis and Halekulani Hotel Obsidian Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Sommelier Sean Isono, a past regional winner. KULA STRAWBERRYGUAVA CHIBOUST The contesAdzuki Bean Financier, tants were Michael Candied Almond Streusel Winterbottom, sommelier at Senia Restaurant; Ariana Tsuchiya, sommelier at Alan Wong’s Restaurant; and Thoger Petry, director of beverage and wine education at Matteo’s Osteria. The close scores among them attested to the high caliber of talent. Since they were in a dead heat in tasting and theory, it took the service test for the winner to emerge. Executive Chef/Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Colin Hazama and Certified Sommelier/Echanson Provincial Micah Suderman collaborated on that evening’s celebration. Dinner was served on a lanai, overlooking the surf, sand, and Diamond Head, as evening fell and lights sparkled. While the setting was relaxed, anticipation mounted before the winner was announced. Thoger Petry prevailed, and all in attendance wished him well in the national competition. G

REGIONS

MID-ATLANTIC REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS AND PASTRY COMPETITIONS

Pastry Competition winner Heidi Kabath.

Judges and competitors.

Vice Conseiller Culinaire National Hon. Pierre Rausch.

Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition winner Lydia Ross.

Chambellan Provincial/Delaware Valley Bailli Matthew Karstetter, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Thomas Hannum, Chambellan Provincial Stuart Goldberg, Bailli Provincial John Fannin III, and Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Paul Schulze.

Pastry Chef Gunther Heiland, CMPC, AAC, Baltimore Bailli Richard Hoffman, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Thomas Hannum, and First State Chef Rôtisseur Michele Mitchell.

Double the Talent BY PERCY NIKORA, Mid-Atlantic Chargé de Presse Provincial Honoraire

ONE GREAT ASPECT of Chaîne membership is the opportunity to support the next generation of talented young chefs. The Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Pastry competitions provide young chefs with a platform to showcase their skills and creativity. On March 18, the Mid-Atlantic Region held these competitions at the acclaimed Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College in Philadelphia. Two young chefs and three pastry chefs competed. Kitchen judges graded the young chefs on technique, organization, product utilization, sanitation, and timing. Their dishes were scored by tasting judges on taste, presentation, and originality. Following the competitions, Walnut Hill College Vice President

of Culinary and Pastry Arts Gary Trevisani and Chef-Instructor Tim McLean put on a luncheon for the judges, contestants, and Chaîne confrères. It was announced that Lydia Ross, chef de cuisine at the Chevy Chase Club, took top honors in the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. She had placed second in the national competition in 2017. Pastry Chef Heidi Kabath of the Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner in Virginia won the Pastry Competition. The event was a tremendous success due to the efforts of Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Thomas Hannum, who was assisted by his wife, First State Vice Chancelier-Argentier Michelle Hannum, and Bailli Provincial John Fannin III. G SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

REGIONS

PHOTOS BY MIRELLA MONOSCALCO

HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION

Competitors Jacob Arakawa, Shaylyn Funasaki (winner), Kainalu Marquez, Crislin Wong, Connor Underwood, and Motley Adovas.

Winner Shaylyn Funasaki.

From the Lion’s Den to Lion Dances BY DAVID GREENLEE, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chargé de Presse Provincial

The Lion’s Den Chargé de Presse Provincial David Greenlee and Dame Cheryl Dickerson.

Kauai/Oahu Vice Conseiller Culinaire Eric Leterc and Kauai/ Oahu Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Alan Casupang.

Dame Bobbette Johnson, Shelly Stitham, Chevalier Mark Stitham, Bailli Provincial Maurice Nicholson, and Don Johnson.

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

SIX BRIGHT YOUNG chefs met early in the morning on February 10 to compete for the title of “Best Young Chef 2018” in the Hawaii/Pacific Islands Region. The competition was held at the Culinary Institute of the Pacific at Kapiolani Community College. The contestants were tasked with creating a three-course meal using ingredients from a mystery basket. Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Ryan Loo and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Colin Hazama provided leadership, inspiration, and guidance as the day unfolded. Both distinguished chefs are past winners of this competition. The mystery-basket ingredients—which included Kona lobster, whole duck, fern shoots, breadfruit, papaya, and butternut squash—were selected for their local origins and wide range of possibilities. Chefs Jason Peel and Warren Uchida, both of whom are instructors at the culinary institute, graded the young chefs on preparation, cleanliness, organization, and assembly. The dishes met the practiced palates of four tasting judges—all internationally experienced professional chefs. Kauai/Oahu

REGIONS

Shaylyn Funasaki’s Winning Menu

Culinary Institute of the Pacific Kapiolani Community College February 10, 2018 LOBSTER CHAWANMUSHI Tomalley-Butter-Tossed Lobster Medallions, Pickled Fern Shoots PAN-SEARED DUCK BREAST Red Wine Sauce, Sautéed Rainbow Chard, Roasted Butternut Squash Purée LEMON SEMIFREDDO Papaya-Breadfruit Coulis

Bailli Provincial Maurice Nicholson, Winner Shaylyn Funasaki, Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Ryan Loo, and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Colin Hazama.

Kauai/Oahu Vice Chargée de Presse Celiamarie Moore and lion dance drummer.

Dame Christie Weaver-Scoville, Chevalier John White, and Kauai/Oahu Bailli Hon. Kathryn Nicholson.

Bailli Provincial Hon. Fred Hellekes, Kauai/Oahu Bailli Hon. Kathryn Nicholson, Kauai/Oahu Bailli Hon. Mark Monoscalco, Kauai/Oahu Bailli John Magauran, Bailli Provincial Hon. Bruce Liebert, and Chambellan Provincial Judith Kellogg.

Vice Conseiller Culinaire Eric Leterc led the panel, who selected the winner but did not release her name until after the lions had danced.

The Lion’s Dance THE AWARDS BANQUET that evening was held at the Oahu Country Club. The theme was the Chinese New Year, which ushered in the Year of the Dog. Bailli Provincial Maurice Nicholson led the celebration of all things red and gold—traditional colors of good fortune. Kauai/Oahu Bailli John Magauran and his officers put on a grand event with an ambitious menu and wine pairings that accented value and flavor. Before the winner was called to the dais, ceremonial lions bounded in to greet attendees and energize the room. Drums beat rhythmically

while the colorful, acrobatic lions danced and accepted traditional gifts of red envelopes containing money. Shaylyn Funasaki faced stiff competition from young chefs from Oahu and Maui but ultimately triumphed. She holds a B.A. from the University of Hawaii and a degree in culinary arts from Leeward Community College. Currently working in the pastry section of MW Restaurant, she is dedicated to pushing herself creatively while exploring new food combinations. Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Loo and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Hazama noted that her tidy work station undoubtedly contributed to her success in executing her complex menu. Kauai/Oahu Bailli Honoraire Kathryn Nicholson remarked that Ms. Funasaki had her game face on while preparing her fantastic meal. However, upon learning that she had won, that game face cracked into a broad smile. On to Charleston! G SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

REGIONS

NORTHEAST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION

Competitors Jayquon Davis, Mark Garcia (winner), Monica Thie, Antonio LaBarbera, Matthew Ranalletta, Jonathan Culbert, and Thomas Desiderio.

Judges and organizers.

Rising Culinary Stars

Winner Mark Garcia.

BY HELEN CAPPUCCINO, Northeast Chargée de Presse Provincial/Buffalo Bailli

THE EXCITEMENT WAS palpable on March 23 as the seven contestants arrived at SUNY Erie Community College, North Campus for the Northeast Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. Four of the young chefs were new to the competition, while the others were previous participants. The young chefs hailed from different parts of the Northeast and were employed at venues that included Le Coucou and Eleven Madison Park in New York City, the Country Club of Rochester, and Seabar in Buffalo. They trained at the Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park; SUNY Schenectady County Community College; SUNY Niagara Falls Culinary Institute; ECC; and in Albany. Competitor Monica Thie, however, came from furthest away, having arrived at the CIA from Indonesia the previous year. Buffalo Maître Rôtisseur Mark Wright, CEC, and SCCC Assistant Professor Michael Stamets, CEC, served as kitchen judges. The tasting 16

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

judges were Buffalo Maître Restaurateur David Schutte, Buffalo Grand Commandeur/Vice Conseiller Culinaire Honoraire Emil Rinderlin, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Yono Purnomo, and Buffalo Chef Rôtisseur Jackie Bamrick. Echanson Provincial Andy Cappuccino assisted the tasting judges. Chefs Purnomo and Wright, who were responsible for ensuring the seamlessness of the day’s events, received tremendous help from Donna Purnomo. The mystery baskets contained U-12 green shrimp, bacon, branzino, oysters, mussels, apples, Roma tomatoes, radicchio, and asparagus. The young chefs creatively incorporated these items, along with the previously disclosed protein of whole duck, into their dishes. Many reported that they found the radicchio the most challenging. Once all had submitted their entries, the scoring began, and each contestant received an intensive critique from both the kitchen and tasting

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Competitor Antonio LaBarbera.

Competitor Thomas Desiderio.

Competitor Matthew Ranalletta.

Buffalo Maître Rôtisseur Mark Wright, CEC, and SCCC Assistant Professor Michael Stamets, CEC.

Judges, organizers, and competitors.

Mark Garcia’s Winning Menu

SUNY Erie Community College, North Campus March 23, 2018 SEAFOOD TASTING Confit Fennel, Pickled Apples

judges. The judges were impressed by the amazing efforts put forth by the competitors, and the feedback they offered was intended to benefit the young chefs as they continued on their path toward culinary careers. After the votes were tallied, second-time competitor Mark Garcia was declared the winner and awarded a silver medal. A sparkling wine toast and lots of photographs and congratulations followed, as all of the young chefs, justifiably proud of their work, shared in the satisfaction of a job well done, the fun of friendly competition, and the gratification of priceless education. G

MAPLE LEAF FARMS ROASTED DUCK BREAST AND BRAISED LEGS Buttered Vegetables, Orange Sauce, Dauphinoise Potatoes

Judges’ critique.

CARROT CAKE Buttermilk Mousse, Textures of Orange and Raspberry

Judges’ critique.

SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

REGIONS

PHOTOS BY WILLIAM VARESCHI

SOUTHEAST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION

AUI Fine Foods Chef/Regional Manager Justin Yearwood, Schwan’s Company Corporate Executive Chef Cheryl Angelo, AIFL Director of Culinary Education/Fort Lauderdale Bailli Hon. John Kane, Biltmore Hotel Executive Chef/Conseiller Culinaire Provincial David Hackett, Chargée de Presse Provincial Hon. Jennifer Denlinger, and Sarasota Maître Rôtisseur Brian Knecht.

The Fabulous Four BY SUSAN VARESCHI, Southeast Bailli Provincial

Bailli Provincial Susan Vareschi, AIFL Director of Culinary Education/ Fort Lauderdale Bailli Hon. John Kane, and Biltmore Hotel Executive Chef/Conseiller Culinaire Provincial David Hackett.

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

THE SOUTHEAST REGIONAL Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition was held at the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale on March 30. The event was hosted by AIFL Director of Culinary Education/Fort Lauderdale Bailli Honoraire John Kane and run by Biltmore Hotel Executive Chef/Conseiller Culinaire Provincial David Hackett. Four talented young chefs vied to represent the Southeast Region in the national competition in May. The evening before the competition, the contestants were given a tour of the facilities. The orientation also gave them the opportunity to meet one another. The contest began early on Friday morning. After drawing numbers to determine the order of their start times, the young chefs received mystery baskets containing celery root, leeks, black beans, apricots, beet-orange juice, and almond milk. The contestants had learned ahead of time that the proteins were flounder, shrimp, chicken, and ground beef. Common pantry items were also available for use. The competitors were Bryan Galarza, cook, Grand

REGIONS

Winner Rebecca Laurence.

Bohemian restaurant; Rebecca Laurence, sous-chef/manager, Hillsborough County Public Schools; Andrei Beltiukov, line cook, Fort Harrison Hotel; and Sheldon McKenzie, line cook, Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurant. Being a great chef requires many skills, including the ability to handle intense pressure. The sense of serenity at the start of the competition gave way to a sense of urgency toward the end of the three hours’ cooking time. The tasting judges included Chef Hackett; Chargée de Presse Provincial Honoraire Jennifer Denlinger; Cheryl Angelo, corporate executive chef, New Product & Business Development, SFC Global Supply Chain, Inc., Schwan’s Company; and Justin Yearwood, chef/regional manager, AUI Fine Foods (chocolate sponsor). Sarasota Maître Rôtisseur Brian Knecht and Keith Blauschild—owner/chef, the Cook and the Cork restaurant—served as kitchen judges. Thanks to Chef Denlinger, four student-volunteers from Valencia College were on hand to run plates and assist with clean-up. After submitting their entries, the contestants received individual feedback from the judges. During the closing reception, which was hosted by AIFL students, the young chefs learned the results of their hard work. Congratulations to Chef Rebecca Laurence, who will represent the Southeast Region in the national competition. Thank you to all of the competitors! And thank you to the AIFL students who came in during their spring break to prepare the excellent reception meal. G

Winner Rebecca Laurence’s entries.

Bailli Provincial Susan Vareschi, winner Rebecca Laurence, and Biltmore Hotel Executive Chef/Conseiller Culinaire Provincial David Hackett.

SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

ATLANTA

Oktoberfest, Southern Style BY BECKY LUKOVIC, Vice Chargée de Presse

Revival October 15, 2017 BEER-CHEESE SOUP Potato Dumpling, Sauerkraut Ayinger Bräuweisse J.J. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese

WITH FALL COMES cool, crisp air and leaves turning brilliant colors. Fall is also a time of celebration. On October 15, BEEF AND CHICKEN KNACKWURST Atlanta Bailliage members held their own version of a tradiSpätzle, Caramelized Apples and Onions, Whole-Grain Mustard tional fall celebration—Oktoberfest—-at Revival, where they Köstritzer Schwarzbier enjoyed a delightful fusion of German and Southern cuisine. Trimbach Riesling Crediting his two grandmothers with being his largest BAKED APPLE culinary influence, Owner/Chef Kevin Gillespie envisioned Revival as a place where “families could commune with one another.” Photos and art from his maternal grandmother’s home adorn the walls of the nineteenth-century structure. Among his numerous accolades, Chef Gillespie has been a multi-year James Beard Award finalist. In 2016, Southern Living named Revival one of the best new restaurants in the South. For this event, Chef de Cuisine Nicole Edwards added a Southern twist to classic German fare. The standout was beef and chicken knackwurst with spätzle—one taste and diners were transported to a Bavarian brauhaus. At evening’s end, Bailli Herbert Spasser presented Chef de Cuisine Edwards and General Manager Adam Lawsky with a commemorative Chaîne plaque. Contented confrères expressed their appreciation to these individuals, as well as the entire Revival team, for a job well done. G

Bailli Herb Spasser and Vice Chargée de Presse Becky Lukovic.

Chef de Cuisine Nicole Edwards.

ATLANTA SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Low Country Crab Boil BY BECKY LUKOVIC, Vice Chargée de Presse

THERE’S NOTHING LIKE spending a summer evening relaxing on a poolside patio with friends while a delicious crab boil is being prepared. On July 29, Atlanta Mondiale members relished this experience at the spectacular home of Officier Roger Gelder. The feast was catered by a company from Savannah. When the crab boil was ready, Chef Davon Hill poured the contents onto newspaper-topped picnic tables as members watched with excitement. They exchanged their Chaîne ribbons for bibs before digging in to succulent crab, potatoes, shrimp, sausage, onions, green beans, and corn. The seafood bounty became an Instagrammer’s delight! As part of the fun, the crab boil experts gave diners a lesson on proper crab-leg extraction. The wines kept coming, the plates kept filling, and the smiles grew wider as attendees chatted amiably across the tables. After the meal, the party returned to the patio, where members exchanged wine recommendations and discussed seafood boil recipes with Chef Hill. Bailli Herbert Spasser presented the catering team with a commemorative Chaîne plaque in recognition of their impressive culinary expertise and orchestration of the perfect summer celebration. G

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

Jill Spasser and Bailli Herbert Spasser.

BAILLIAGES

AUSTIN

The Golden Goose BY KATHY SHAY, Southwest Chargée de Presse Provincial

PROMISED SOOTHING WINTRY fare, Austin Bailliage members headed to L’Oca d’Oro on January 27 to sample the cuisine of Co-Owner/Chef Fiore Tedesco. The restaurant has garnered numerous accolades since it opened in 2016, including receiving a glowing review from renowned food critic Dame Patsy Eppright and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Dan Buchanan. Matthew Odam. At 68 degrees, the evening was hardly chilly, but rustic Italian food is welcome at all t emperatures. L’Oca d’Oro, which translates to “the Golden Goose,” derived from the nickname of the chef’s young daughter: “Lucy Goose with the Golden Hair.” The venue specializes in Italian comfort food, and, on this occasion, confrères were treated to a feast from Italy’s Friuli region. The primarily local ingredients were sourced from some of Texas’s top purveyors. Though well known for his eggplant Parmesan, Chef Tedesco changed up this dish to highlight a seasonal vegetable— cauliflower. Prepared with Mornay sauce, it proved a favorite of the evening. Dame Linda Cook and Vice Chancelier-Argentier General Manager Adam Orman showcased white Charlie Eppright. wines—the specialty of Friuli. Pairings were chosen from some smaller and less available vineyards, providing a new tasting experience for most. Chef Tedesco and General Manager Orman have reaped the benefits of their Golden Goose. G

L’Oca d’Oro January 27, 2018 MALFALDINE Pine Nut Butter, Pickled Fennel, Golden Raisins, Spruce Oil Cantina del Taburno Beneventano 2014 CAULIFLOWER PARMIGIANO Pomodoro, Taleggio Mornay Lungarotti Torre di Giano Vigna Il Pino 2011 KOJI-RUBBED PORK LOIN Charred Cabbage, Scallop Tonnato Château d’Oupia Minervois 2015 TIRAMISU Mascarpone, Plantation O.F.T.D. Rum, White Sonoran Sponge Florio Fine Sweet Marsala

BUFFALO AND ALBANY

Third Annual Culinary and Sports Weekend BY HELEN CAPPUCCINO, Northeast Chargée de Presse Provincial/Buffalo Bailli

ON OCTOBER 27, Buffalo and Albany bailliage members kicked off a weekend of fine dining and sports. It was the third consecutive year that the chapters were holding this joint event. Attendees were joined by London City Dame de la Chaîne Judy Van Niekerk and Chevalier “Tiny” Van Niekerk. The festivities began with a dinner prepared by Buffalo Vice Chancelier-Argentier Honoraire Dorothy Johnston and Erie County Community College culinary students at the home of Chargée de Presse Provincial/Buffalo Bailli Helen Cappuccino and New York Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Andy Cappuccino. ECCC students are regular beneficiaries of Chaîne scholarships. Albany Bailliage members in attendance included Bailli Bill Harris and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Holly Katz; Dame de la Chaîne Nigar Hale and Chevalier Michael Hale; and Dame de la Chaîne Judy Padano and Chevalier Larry Padano. Buffalo Bailli Honoraire Bob Leighton and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Honoraire Bunny Leighton were honored guests as well. On Saturday, the group enjoyed a Buffalo Sabres game (despite a loss), followed by a great dinner at Roost restaurant—a Chaîne-member establishment. The weekend closed with a victorious Buffalo Bills game on a beautiful autumn day. G

SUMMER 2018

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BUFFALO

Mexi-Montreal Fusion BY HELEN CAPPUCCINO, Northeast Chargée de Presse Provincial/Buffalo Bailli

DELIGHT, SURPRISE, AND culinary excellence! On January 20, the Buffalo Bailliage celebrated Las Puertas Owner/Chef Victor Parra Gonzalez’s recent James Beard House appearance and previewed his solo James Beard House menu. With a degree from Montreal’s Ecole Hôtelière des Laurentides and corporate cooking experience for the Montreal Canadiens, Chef Gonzalez helms the most innovative Mexican restaurant around. In addition to locals, such industry icons as Geoffrey Zakarian (of Iron Chef and Chopped fame) flock there to enjoy the exquisitely seasoned, beautiful preparations that are part French Canadian, part Mexican, and part youthful exuberance, creativity, and culinary craftsmanship. The evening’s menu was elevated by French technique, with an assist from excellent local ingredients selected by the chef’s sister, Diana Parra Gonzalez. She and her brother have incredible synergy in the kitchen, and each dish reflects their happy memories of growing up in the kitchen of their mother’s restaurant in Acapulco. The event sold out within days of the invitation, and those lucky enough to score a seat were not disappointed. Las Puertas is so small that many weren’t even aware it existed, but all agreed that they couldn’t wait to return. G

Chevalier David Herer, Kevin Shine, Professionnel du Vin Jon Notarius, and Vice Echanson Bill Collins.

Staff.

PHOTOS BY SUE FLISCHEL

CINCINNATI SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Cellar Treasures BY GRAIG SMITH, Vice Chargé de Presse

THE CINCINNATI MONDIALE held its most recent “Cellar Treasures” event on October 17 at the Transept, ensconced in the trendy Over-the-Rhine district. Co-Owned by Josh Heuser and Michael Forgus, this stunning venue resides in a renovated gothic German church built in 1867. The upscale bar and event center is in a prime location, near historic Music Hall and a gorgeous park. Funky’s Catering, of which Chef Forgus is managing partner, provided the exquisite cuisine. For this recurrent event, members bring bottles of their finest wines to share. They then vote on their favorite, which this year was Domaine Cazes Rivesaltes 1933. The proud donor, Chevalier Robert Dahlhausen, was awarded a Chaîne folio for his outstanding offering. Vice Echanson Mary Horn added two mystery wines—Aubert Vineyard Chardonnay 2014 and Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006—for attendees to identify in a blind tasting. Professionnel du Vin Kathy Merchant, who was closest to the mark, received a prize of Chaîne playing cards. Members heartily thanked Vice Echanson Horn, Vice Echanson Honoraire Mike Monnin, and Bailli George Elliott for an evening of unparalleled wine, exceptional food, and delightful camaraderie. G

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

John Verschoor and Vice Chargée de Missions Carmen Parks.

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY JAN SMITH

CINCINNATI

Urban Culinary Adventure BY GRAIG SMITH, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON THE BLUSTERY evening of February 11, the Cincinnati Bailliage held a dine-around at Bistro Grace. Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. This stylish eatery is located in the city’s revitalized Marilyn Harris and Chevalier Kelly Fulmer. Northside neighborhood, known for its renovated turnof-the-century homes and innovative restaurants. Chef David Bever’s specialty of traditional dishes with a modern twist keeps area foodies coming back for more. He credits his success to having trained under esteemed chefs such as Jean-Robert de Cavel and Todd Kelly. Bistro Grace has received kudos from national and international entities, including the Wine Spectator. Each attendee brought an exceptional wine to share with the group. The bottles were placed on a centrally located bar for easy access during the evening. After indulging in an array of delicious appetizers, attendees savored a stellar four-course meal, the highlights of which were braised duck leg cassoulet and spice-dusted strip steak. They enjoyed pairing various wines with the well-crafted dishes while peering out of the restaurant’s windows at the bustling cityscape. Following dinner, Bailli George Elliott, along with everyone present, offered the highest praise to Vice Chargée de Missions Carmen Parks for orchestrating, in collaboration with Chef Bever, an evening to remember. G

Carol White, Chevalier Eric Durbin, and Dame Kathy Comisar.

Amy Eddy, Dame Molly Katz, and Lee Parrott.

COLONIAL NEW ENGLAND

Truffles, Textures, and Toques BY SANDRA KRAFT, Bailli

DESPITE ITS UNASSUMING storefront, Bistro 5, located in Medford, Massachusetts, has a fabulous chef! The excitement was palpable on December 5 as Colonial New England Bailliage members anticipated their truffle celebration there. Owner/Chef Vittorio Ettore and Chef de Cuisine Alex Sakelakos did not disappoint. The menu showcased white Alba truffles, which were used in each dish. As the musty aroma filled the room, attendees felt as though they had been transported to Piemonte. Each preparation had its own sublime textures and flavors—one different from the next and all very successful. When Chef Ettore was shaving the truffles in front of diners, his hands moved so fast that all they could see was a blur! Confrères were also pleased to have four member-chefs in attendance. James Mucci, head of business development for Mucci Imports, chose the excellent wine accompaniments with the help of Dame de la Chaîne Jayne Schmitz and “assistants” Chevalier Nat Brown, Jr., Vice Chancelier-Argentier Judy Brown, and Chevalier Nat Brown, Sr. Mr. Mucci used maps to show the wine regions in Italy from which the grapes originated. G

Bistro 5 December 5, 2017 LOBSTER BISQUE Roasted Sunchoke, Truffled Crème Fraîche Cantina Gulino Pretiosa Albanello 2016 APPLE CUSTARD Maine Crab, Brioche S.A. Prüm Essence Riesling 2016 RISOTTO Alba Truffles, Celery Root, Hazelnut, Yolk Confit, Robiola Terrasol Tracce Nero d’Avola 2015 GUINEA HEN Foie Gras, Chestnut Crema, Butternut Squash, Leeks Negro Lorenzo Langhe Dolcetto 2015 PUMPKIN CRÉMEUX Truffle Syrup, Maple Gelato, Pecan Crumble, Black Truffle Meringue Marenco Brachetto d’Acqui

SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY ELLEN ROSENBERG AND PERCY NIKORA

DELAWARE VALLEY

Magic at Majolica BY KATHLEEN BOYLE, Vice Chargée de Presse

IDEALLY LOCATED ON the main street of historic, trendy Phoenixville, Majolica offers patrons artful dining experiences. Once inside, it’s easy to get pleasantly sidetracked from one’s daily routine while perusing the walls filled with works by local artists and savoring the culinary creations of Owner/Chef Andrew Deery. Chef Deery visits local farms, farmers’ markets, and suppliers to develop menu concepts. He then uses a variety of techniques to execute his vision. For the Delaware Valley Bailliage’s dinner on January 28, he devoted thirty hours to preparing the exceptionally delicious and tender suckling pig porchetta. The high quality of the ingredients he selects and the time he takes to prepare them result in meals that are elevated to the level of art. Members were pleased to be joined by Conseiller Gastrono mique Provincial Paul Schulze, who gave them a preview of the upcoming Mid-Atlantic Regional Chapitre. The group paused for a moment to honor the late Shelly Margolis—grand officier commandeur and former Chaîne Foundation chair—for his lifelong commitment to the organization. In addition, Bailli Honoraire Brian Thorne was recognized for his ongoing service to the Chaîne. G

Chevalier Scott Jones and Dame Traci Jones.

Owner/Chef Andrew Deery and Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Matthew Karstetter.

Dame Kathy Martinides, Vice Chargée de Missions Nancy Kyle, Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Paul Schulze, Dame Yan Jin, and Chevalier Arthur Brownwell.

DES MOINES

Sunday Dinner BY SANDY CUTTER, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE IMAGE OF a family gathered around the dinner table on Sunday evening brings to mind the quaint paintings of Norman Rockwell and makes most folks smile. On November 12, smiles were plentiful at Table 128 Bistro and Bar, where Des Moines Bailliage members gathered for their own Dame Nancy Landess, Bailli Jim Cutter, and Co-Owner/ Maître Rôtisseur Lynn Pritchard. Sunday dinner. Confrères have enjoyed previous dinners at Table 128, and Co-Owner/ Chef Lynn Pritchard is a Des Moines maître rôtisseur. Event planner Dame de la Chaîne Nancy Landess and Chef Pritchard collaborated on the delightful “Sunday dinner” theme. Following the champagne reception, attendees were seated for dinner at large tables. The entrée featured Russian Orloff hens sourced from a farm in Grimes, Iowa. The Russian Orloff is a fairly rare breed in the United States. The hens were stuffed with herbs and served family style. While some diners carved for their entire table, others waited for the chef to arrive and do the honors. Passing platters of hearty food around the table, chatting with Chaîne friends, and clinking glasses of good wine was certainly a wonderful and harmonious way to spend a Sunday evening! G

Maître Rôtisseur Karla Boetel and Dame Susi Langwith.

John Mandelbaum, Dame Cyril Mandelbaum, and Barbara Arum.

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY ANDI MORGENTHALER

ÉTOILE SOLITAIRE

Happy Holidays and Welcome to the Chaîne BY LEE MORGENTHALER, Bailli

THE ÉTOILE SOLITAIRE Bailliage celebrated the holiChevalier Mark Font and Chevalier Robbie Denton. day season on December 17 at Le Mistral, an elegant Houston restaurant co-owned by Vice Conseiller Culinaire David Denis, CMC. Chef Denis, who is a member of the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France, brilliantly displayed the culinary skills he honed in exclusive venues in Switzerland and France. The result was a visually stunning, delicious, four-course gourmet menu. Vice Echanson Chrysa Lee selected vintage wines from the chapter’s cellar to pair with the meal. Holiday spirit abounded as celebrants partook of the fellowship of the table. In honor of this season of giving, attendees brought toys to contribute to the local Toys for Tots drive. Bailli Provincial William Salomon elevated Vice Echanson Lee and Vice Chargé de Missions Jay Harberg. He was assisted by Sénéchal des Etats-Unis Robert Epstein in inducting Dames de la Chaîne Pamela Lolan and Maggy May and Chevaliers Wayne Lolan, Robert May, and John Senger. The five new members were then inducted into the Mondiale by Bailli Provincial Salomon and Echanson Provincial William Ridlehuber. What better way to herald the holidays than by dining with Chaîne friends and welcoming new members! G

Dame Shaza Anderson and Chevalier Mark Anderson.

Bailli Provincial William Salomon and San Antonio Vice Chargée de Presse Judy Salomon.

FORT LAUDERDALE

A Celebration of Food, Wine, and Music BY JANA SOELDNER-DANGER, Southeast Chargée de Presse Provincial Honoraire

THE FORT LAUDERDALE Bailliage teamed up with the Symphony of the Americas on November 17 for an evening of fabulous food and wine at Pier 66. Wines of the World, or WOW, is an annual fundraiser for the symphony. The event appealed to Fort Lauderdale Esther Superstein, Bailli Jerry Rosenthal, and Lee Anne LeBlanc. confrères for several reasons, not least of all because its co-chair was Bailli Jerry Rosenthal. Winemaker Paul Hobbs, globally considered a visionary in his field, was the vintner honoree. To start, a tasting reception offered seventy-plus wines ranging from affordable pours to premium vintages. Tasty appetizers were prepared by several top area chefs as well as culinary students from the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale. Each delicious dinner course was prepared by a different chef. One delightful aspect of WOW is that many wine collectors bring bottles from their own cellars to share with tablemates. Another highlight is the live auction, with items up for bid such as collectible wines, wine-related travel packages, and gourmet dinners. The beautiful evening was an opportunity to share great food and wines from around the world, which is what the Chaîne is all about. G Bailli Hon. John Kane and Mercy Kane.

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BAILLIAGES

FORT LAUDERDALE

A Fabulous French Evening BY JANA SOELDNER-DANGER, Southeast Chargée de Presse Provincial Honoraire

A SEVEN-COURSE dinner at Sage French Café and Wine Bar on January 14 conjured an elegant evening in Paris for Fort Lauderdale Bailliage members. Owner/Executive Chef Laurent Tasic and Bailli Jerry Rosenthal created a feast filled with fabulous flavors, tempting textures, and stylish presentations. With its romantic, European-style ambiance, Sage has been a popular dining destination since it opened in 1996. Chef Tasic, who previously owned restaurants in France, Monaco, and Martinique, offers classic French fare as well as American favorites and an extensive international wine list. Following the reception, diners settled in for what promised to be a superb meal. Bailli Rosenthal circulated among the tables, making sure that attendees were enjoying themselves. He is a longtime wine collector, and two of the vintages, a bordeaux and a sauternes, had come from his personal cellar. Chef Tasic emerged from the kitchen to receive kudos from the appreciative group. He was presented with a commemorative Chaîne plaque as a token of the chapter’s gratitude. As confrères bid each other bonsoir, they knew that they would remember the charming evening for a long time. G

Bailli Jerry Rosenthal, Owner/Executive Chef Laurent Tasic, and Vice ChancelierArgentier Marcela Guzman-Galan.

Ray Williams, Dame Suzy Williams, Randy Avon, and Nani Maloney.

FORT WORTH SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Inaugural Mondiale Dinner BY JEFF KWARSICK, Vice Chargé de Presse

THE INAUGURAL DINNER of the Fort Worth Mondiale took place on November 30 at the Fort Worth Club. Presiding officer Echanson Provincial William Ridlehuber first inducted Vice Echanson Weston Eidson, who then served as presenter. Echanson Provincial Ridlehuber went on to induct eleven confrères, including Chevalier Dan Fawcett. The festive ceremony was a great way to herald both the holiday season and the new Mondiale contingent. Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Jean Moore paired exquisite champagnes with the cuisine of Executive Chef Tim Prefontaine, CEC. During dinner, Vice Echanson Eidson, who is owner/vintner of Montagu and Silver Ghost wineries, explained the selection rationale and provided tasting notes for each champagne. Vice Echanson Eidson also recited several classic quotes about champagne, including this one by Lilly Bollinger: “I drink [it] when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it—unless I’m thirsty.” Off to an auspicious start, the Fort Worth Mondiale is sure to grow and flourish in the years ahead. G

Vice Echanson Weston Eidson and Bailli Randal Moore.

Vice Echanson Weston Eidson, Echanson Provincial William Ridlehuber, Dame Maria Fawcett, and Chevalier Dan Fawcett.

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

BAILLIAGES

GALVESTON

Annual Holiday Party on the Island BY URS E. SCHMID, Chevalier

EACH YEAR, GALVESTON Bailli Jan Pozzi and Argentier National Honoraire James Pozzi host the bailChevalier Christopher Robb, Chevalier Tom Hutton, and Argentier Vice Echanson Richard Quintanilla and liage’s holiday party at their home on Galveston Island. National Hon. Jim Pozzi. Rachel Cox. December 5 was a chilly evening, with wind gusts that would make Santa’s reindeer nervous, but inside the cozy bungalow, stockings were hung by the chimney with care in hopes that Executive Chef/Chef Rôtisseur Chris Lopez and his team from Yaga’s Café soon would be there. The feast included “Who-Pudding” and rack of “rare Who-Roast Beast.” Confrères love this event because they get to sing in very non-angelic ways and bask in the holiday spirit. Attendees bring wine to share, and Steve Newsom leads the group on the piano, which has become a beloved tradition. Argentier National Honoraire Pozzi heads up the caroling; he can coax even the Grinchiest of members into singing “The Twelve Days of Christmas.” Members catch up with friends, sharing knowledge about wines they have recently discovered while watching the repast being prepared. It’s a time to enjoy each other’s company, reflect on the blessings of the past year, and look ahead to Executive Chef/Chef Rôtisseur Chris Lopez and Yaga’s Café team. the surprises that await in the coming year. G

KANSAS CITY

Jasper’s 1954 Supper Club BY ROD RICHARDSON, Vice Chargé de Presse

Jasper’s 1954 Supper Club November 8, 2017 GRILLED LANGOUSTINES Garlic-Rubbed Ciabatta Lagaria Pinot Grigio 2016

FOR MORE THAN six decades, Jasper’s Italian Restaurant RIGATONI SAN REMO has offered great Italian fare in Kansas City. Owner/Chef Shrimp, Scallops, Tomato, Cream Terredora di Paolo Falanghina 2016 Jasper Mirabile, Jr., has followed in his father’s footsteps; with the help of family members and professional staff, he VEAL VALDOSTANA Prosciutto di Parma, Fontina has not only continued the establishment’s fine traditions Remo Farina Ripasso 2015 but helped elevate it to the highest echelon of Italian restaurants. The chef is vice conseiller culinaire of the Kansas CHOCOLATE ESPRESSO SHAKE, NANA MIRABILE’S BISCOTTI, AND ZEPPOLE City Bailliage, which is proud to have him as a longstandLimoncello de Sorrento ing member. On November 8, Kansas City confrères were treated to warm hospitality at Jasper’s 1954 Supper Club. Chef Mirabile applied his own style to dishes from his Sicilian background, with heavy influences from Tuscany and Piemonte. Starting with the antipasti and continuing through the dolce, the creative meal wove the tastes of Italy together. The libations included several Italian wines as well as Limoncello de Sorrento. The beautiful table settings were further enhanced by the antique brunch-plate centerpieces designed by Vice Chancelier-Argentier Elena Wahbeh. Chef Mirabile provided commentary on the courses as they were being served. At the conclusion of the evening, attendees applauded the chef and his talented team. Vive la Chaîne! G

Bailli Mike Foster and Dame Connie Russell.

Chevalier Vince McInerney and Wendy Phillips.

SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY MIKE FOSTER

KANSAS CITY SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Chef Sean Kirby’s Kitchen

Chef Sean Kirby’s Home October 8, 2017

BY ROD RICHARDSON, Vice Chargé de Presse

ROASTED PUMPKIN SOUP E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2015

CHEF SEAN KIRBY of Local Seasons Catering & Events graciously hosted Kansas City Mondiale members at his home on October 8. Kansas City confrères have enjoyed the fruits of Chef Kirby’s impressive culinary skills on several occasions. For this event, the chef worked in concert with Vice Echanson John Hartman, who selected fine French wines to highlight the wonderful cuisine. The five-course menu paid homage to fall and the harvest. Autumn in Kansas City was showcased through such delights as goose sausage, pumpkin soup, spaghetti squash, and apple pastry roses. The combination of fresh, delicious food and excellent wine pairings made for a beautiful dining experience for all in attendance. Chef Kirby’s motto is “locally sourced, seasonally prepared.” In this spirit, he spent countless hours in the woods picking mushrooms, wild greens, and other fresh items. He has a passion for the hunt, and it is clear that he knows where and when to find the best edibles nature has to offer. Kansas City members were once again the lucky beneficiaries of his myriad talents and resourcefulness. Vive la Société Mondiale du Vin! G

Local Seasons Catering & Events Chef Sean Kirby.

SPINACH SALAD Honey-Pear Vinaigrette Bruno Colin ChassagneMontrachet Premier Cru 2013 PAN-SEARED HALIBUT Spaghetti Squash, Sage Brown Butter Domaine Drouhin Louise Pinot Noir 2009 Nicolas Potel Sauvigny-lesBeaune les Marconnets 2015 BRAISED, MARROWSTUFFED BEEF SHANK Whipped Potatoes, Roasted Root Vegetables Phillip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 APPLE PASTRY ROSES Rieussec Sauternes 2005 Royal Tokaji 2009

PHOTOS BY STEVE KENNY

LACS ET DES BOIS

Classic French Dinner BY DAVID GILLEY, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique

ON SEPTEMBER 9, the Lacs et des Bois Bailliage enjoyed a fabulous French meal at Chez Nous prepared by husband-andwife co-owners Maître de Table Restaurateur Scott Simonson and Executive Chef Stacy Simonson. At the reception, talk centered on the destruction in the Houston area wrought by Hurricane Harvey. Attendees felt blessed to have been among the fortunate few who were untouched by the storm. In the spirit of giving, a bottle of Château Lynch-Bages Blanc 2011 was raffled to raise funds for the Chaîne Foundation. When Chevalier Richard Leofsky learned of the auction, he contributed a bottle of Barbera 2010—his favorite pizza wine. So, there were two winners instead of one! With the evening started off on such a grand note, the group was eager to partake of the subsequent diner. While each course was exquisite, the favorite was diver scallop with pappardelle. Domaine Rimauresq Côtes de Provence Rosé Cru Classé 2015 was the perfect accompaniment to this dish. At evening’s end, Bailli Cheryl Kenny presented Maître d’ Dan Zeitzmann and his outstanding team with pins and Chez Nous with a Chaîne plate to commemorate this spectacular dinner. G

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

Chevalier Arron Angle and Dame Karen Maybee.

Brian Kenny, Officier Steve Kenny, and Kristin Kenny.

Chez Nous September 9, 2017 HONEYDEW-ALMOND SOUP Clos de Lunes Blanc Sec Bordeaux 2015 SEARED DIVER SCALLOP Pappardelle, Zucchini, Smoked Salmon Domaine Rimauresq Côtes de Provence Rosé Cru Classé 2015 BACON-WRAPPED SAVOY CABBAGE Filled with Veal, Pork, and Beef

Officier Scott Cutler, Marsha Ghormley, Vice Chargée de Médias Sociaux Julie Tilton, and Chevalier Joe Tilton.

Château Picque Caillou Grand Vin de Graves 2012 BING CHERRY COMPOTE, VANILLA CHIBOUST, AND TOASTED ALMOND SHORTBREAD Quinta de la Rosa 10-Year Tawny Port

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY SHERRI SMITH

PEACHTREE

Elegant Ansley Induction Dinner BY JUDITH G. TAYLOR, Vice Chargée de Presse

RECENTLY RENOVATED AND redecorated, the venerable Ansley Golf Club is situated in Atlanta’s historic Ansley Park neighborhood. On January 28, the Peachtree Bailliage held its annual induction dinner at the club in a beautifully appointed room done in subtle grays. Echanson Provincial/Bailli Richard Smith, Executive Chef Jason Valerio, and Catering Argentier National Stephen Gross skillfully wielded his foil to induct Director Emily Walls. three chevaliers and six dames de la Chaîne. It was his pleasure to then present a grand commandeur pin to one confrère for forty years of Chaîne membership; officier commandeur pins to two members for thirty years of membership; and commandeur pins to six confrères for twenty years of participation. All of the awardees have remained active in the bailliage, with Echanson Provincial/Bailli Richard Smith prominent among them. Executive Chef Jason Valerio opened the meal with an awe-inspiring soup. Creating the bacon consommé took two days and five different steps. The subsequent dishes were likewise meticulously prepared and delicious. The wine accompaniments were excellently paired and their qualities were beautifully detailed by event chair Chevalier Chuck Taylor. The Peachtree Bailliage’s first dinner at the Ansley Golf Club was a resounding success. Confrères thanked their outstanding hosts and promised to return. G Vice Chancelier-Argentier Hon. Charles Miller and Dame Yoko Yoshida.

PHILADELPHIA

Late-Summer Dinner at Wister

Fu Ming San and Chevalier Bruce Zappan.

BY PAUL KOULOGEORGE, Mid-Atlantic Chargé de Presse Provincial

PHILADELPHIA’S CULINARY SCENE Officier Robin Lowey, Ena Hung, and Dame Adriana Lo Piccolo. continues to grow and diversify. Prominent these days are small, chefowned, farm-to-table restaurants, often with bring-your-own-wine policies. Such venues tend to be located in newly gentrified neighborhoods. The Philadelphia Bailliage prefers to hold events at these restaurants because the chefs are creative, eager to make their mark, and willing to develop menus that stretch their skills. On October 6, Philadelphia confrères dined at Wister BYOB, an exposed-brick, steampunk-designed space in the Old Town neighborhood. Chef Benjamin Moore, formerly of fine-dining exemplars Le BecFin and Lacroix, helms the kitchen. The chef’s focus on the balance of color and shape in his cuisine reflects his interest in painting. The late-summer menu emphasized local riches, including fresh seafood from the New Jersey coast and produce from Dutch Country. The meal was accompanied by excellent European wines, with La Pousse d’Or Volnay Premier Cru en Caillerets 2006 being the standout selection. Ginger fried ice cream with blueberry-corn dressing served as a lovely finale. Dinner chairs Chevalier Niels Haun and Officier Robin Lowey commended Chef Moore on his delicious, artistically presented dishes that bid a fond farewell to summer. G

Wister BYOB October 6, 2017 UNI AND CRAB Piero Mancini Vermentino di Gallura 2016 SMOKED SABLEFISH J.J. Prüm Riesling 2015 CANNELLONI Autumn Squash, Ricotta, Garlic-Sage Crème Felsina Berardenga Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 1995 DUCK TWO WAYS Sunchoke, Trumpet Mushrooms, Cherry La Pousse d’Or Volnay Premier Cru en Caillerets 2006 GINGER FRIED ICE CREAM Corn Espuma, Blueberry

SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

PORTLAND, MAINE

Meet and Greet in Maine BY MARSHALL L. BERENSON, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli

PORTLAND, MAINE IS no longer just “lobsta-land,” but a culinary mecca with award-winning venues offering myriad global cuisines. Fore Street restaurant, in particular, has been a James Beard semifinalist numerous times, and Co-Owner/Executive Chef Sam Hayward was named “Best Chef: Northeast.” Combine this with Southern Maine Community College’s renowned culinary arts program and the return of Maine-born chefs who have cut their culinary teeth elsewhere, and you will find food that rivals the best anywhere. Starting a new Chaîne chapter is an exciting and challenging endeavor, and it’s important to generate buzz early on. On September 14, at David’s Restaurant, Acting Bailli Wilfred Beriau and Maître de Table Hôtelier John Coviello gathered local chefs, press, and culinary educators for a meet and greet to show the Chaîne flag and grow the new Portland, Maine Bailliage. Hors d’oeuvres prepared by Marriott Sable Oaks Executive Chef Christopher Merriam and wines from Merriam Vineyards contributed to the success of this inaugural event. Chaîne members who travel to the area should reach out to this nascent bailliage and enjoy the fruits from land and sea that the great state of Maine has to offer. G

SAN ANTONIO

Vertical WineTasting Dinner BY VIVIAN RAY, Bailli

ON SEPTEMBER 22, the San Antonio Bailliage enjoyed a vertical wine-tasting dinner at the San Antonio Country Club. Founded in 1904, the club is one the city’s oldest, most elegant venues. Confrères dined at a single, long table decorated by Clubhouse Manager Sylvia Chevalier Victor Casiano and Dame Theresa Casiano. Dame Aspasia Erian and Chevalier Ralph Erian. Cevallos. Tall and short silver vases were filled with gorgeous white roses, hydrangea, and peonies. General Manager/Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Honoraire Marvin Jones and Executive Chef Nelson Millán designed the menu to complement the featured wines: Justin Isosceles 1999, 2000, 2001, and 2002. Wine Educator/Professionnel du Vin Alton Powell gave a history of the winery, discussed the wines being tasted, and offered year-to-year comparisons. The 1999 and 2000 vintages were surprisingly different from one another. The 1999 was a winner. Attendees next sampled the Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Anna Hafkus and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Hon. Marvin Jones, Executive Sous-Chef 2001 and 2002 vintages. Professionnel du Vin Chevalier Peter Hafkus. Jay Shutts, Executive Chef Nelson Millán, and Cook Lou Collazo. Powell entertained members by asking questions and testing their wine knowledge. It was an evening of education, good food, and Chaîne camaraderie. The night ended with the presentation of a bottle of wine to the person with the correct answer. Vice Chargée de Missions Catherine Milbourn was the winner. G

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

BAILLIAGES

SCOTTSDALE

Induction Dinner for Reinvigorated Chapter BY VIJAL LUDLOW, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE SCOTTSDALE RESORT at McCormick Ranch graciously hosted the Scottsdale Bailliage’s induction dinner on the warm winter evening of January 13. It was the third event held by the revitalized bailliage, which is under the leadership of Bailli Samia Mounts. Bailli Provincial Phil Kress inducted two new members and elevated Vice Chancelier-Argentier Ron Day, Vice Chargée de Presse Vijal Ludlow, and Vice Chargé de Bailli Samia Mounts and Vice Chargée de Presse Vijal Ludlow. Missions Cary Tenenbaum. This time-honored ceremony closed with Bailli Mounts presenting the honorees with a small gift in thanks for their devotion to the chapter. Executive Chef Rick Dupere’s seven-course menu pleased both eye and palate. Both the lobster salad and foie gras torchon elicited appreciative gasps from diners. After the ingenious dessert of monkey bread with cereal ice cream, the group enthusiastically applauded the chef and his team. The Scottsdale Bailliage is making continuous, significant improvements. Its membership is increasing, and chapter officers show a talent and taste for great food and wines. It is a pleasure to look around the room during an event and witness confrères expressing the joy of being part of the Scottsdale Chapter. G

SPRINGFIELD

Big Night at Bistro Verde BY ROSALIE H. LOWERY, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE SPRINGFIELD BAILLIAGE kicked off its fall season on October 21 at Bistro Verde—the student-operated restaurant that is part of Lincoln Land Community College’s Culinary Arts Program. Attendees were greeted warmly by Bailli John Dale Kennedy and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jay Kitterman. This annual event is close to members’ hearts. Now retired, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Kitterman was instrumental in the development and direction of the program, and LLCC President/Dame de la Chaîne Charlotte Warren currently champions it. The Springfield Chapter awards scholarships to LLCC culinary students each year. The evening’s theme was based on the movie Big Night. This 1996 film about two Italian brothers trying to succeed in the restaurant business has become a cult classic in the foodie world. Chef Sean Keeley led the culinary students in carrying out his vision of the “Big Night” meal featured in movie. Chef Keeley gave detailed commentary on the preparation of the courses, particularly the pièce de résistance—a magnificent timpano. In true Italian style, confrères gathered for great food, wine, and camaraderie, and all left satisfied. This Big Night was a Big Success! G

Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jay Kitterman and Bailli John Dale Kennedy.

Carol Kitterman, Ronée Kennedy, and LLCC Culinary Operations Director Nancy Sweet.

Bistro Verde October 21, 2017 CHICKEN SOUP Le Monde Pinot Grigio 2014 DUCK SAUSAGE-STUFFED QUAIL Pira Barolo 2012 RISOTTO TRIO J. Hoffstätter Pinot Bianco Weissburgunder 2014 IL TIMPANO Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva 2010 TIRAMISU Felsina Vin Santo 2005

Grace Nanavati and Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Vicki Megginson.

SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

SPRINGFIELD

Autumn’s Bounty BY ROSALIE H. LOWERY, Vice Chargée de Presse

Maldaner’s Restaurant November 18, 2017

ON NOVEMBER 18, the Springfield Bailliage gathered at Maldaner’s Restaurant to enjoy a table of plenty. A day that began with sixty-degree weather saw winter gear by the time the capacity crowd had arrived. Owner/Chef Michael Higgins’s menu featured fall Springfield Bailliage members. garden offerings that satisfied both palate and soul. Maldaner’s is Green Business Certified, which means it is actively working to reduce its environmental impact. In addition to growing herbs and vegetables in an onsite rooftop garden, Chef Higgins maintains beehives and buys fresh fruits and vegetables at area farmers’ markets. Special guests in attendance were Chevalier John Kelly and Dame de la Chaîne Jeane Kelly, who had recently relocated to Springfield. Chaîne participants for more than twenty years, the Kellys have previously been members of the Philadelphia, Delaware Valley, and Boston chapters. Springfield confrères are delighted to welcome them as members of their bailliage. As all who live in the Midwest know, it was possible to experience yet another drastic change in the weather before getting home. So, everyone departed with the gift of an umbrella with the Chaîne logo to ward off any late-fall showers. G

BONE MARROW-SHIITAKE CUSTARD Ferrari-Carano Reserve Chardonnay 2013 SEARED SCALLOP Anselmi San Vincenzo 2015 CITRUS SALAD Marcona Almonds, Picholine Olives PORK RILLETTES Dog Point Pinot Noir 2011 DUCK CONFIT Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva Rioja 2006 BISCOTTI Hot Chocolate

SPRINGFIELD

Vele PopUp Dinner BY ROSALIE H. LOWERY Vice Chargée de Presse

FORTY SPRINGFIELD Bailliage members braved frigid temperatures on January 30 to enjoy a “Chaîne Pop-Up Dinner” at Vele (pronounced vay-lay). This dinner series was designed to expand the chapter’s culinary Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Vicki Megginson, Ronée Kennedy, and Jasmine Griffin. adventures. The events are very popular; this one sold out within a day. As the venues tend to have limited wine lists, the hosts have always graciously allowed members to bring their own selections. Vele is owned by new Springfield confrère Maître Rôtisseur Justin Richardson. With its elegant black-and-white décor, it has revitalized the space previously occupied by Café Brio, which closed in 2017. Vele’s menu spotlights cuisine from Italy’s southern coast, with seafood, pasta, and steaks prominently featured. The menu lived up to the expectation of the Mediterranean influence, with lighter offerings of seafood, oysters, and squid-ink pasta. Braised short ribs with decadent truffle-marrow compound butter signaled a transition to heartier fare. No Italian meal would be complete without gelato, and the pistachio gelato that accompanied the chocolate torte was perfect. During the evening, diners shared a variety of wines, including soave, barbaresco, and a Sicilian nero d’Avola in keeping with the spirit of the region. G

CHAINEUS.ORG

SUMMER 2018

Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jay Kitterman and Chevalier George Preckwinkle.

Dame Leah Boente-Hulcher and Vice Conseiller Culinaire David Radwine.

BAILLIAGES

TRIANGLE

Carnevale di Italia BY SANDY MERA BRIDGER, Vice Chargée de Presse

IT SEEMED AS if Carnevale di Italia had arrived in Raleigh on February 18 as Triangle Bailliage members gathered at Mulino Italian Kitchen & Bar for a night of revelry. The festivities began with a courtyard reception at which masked attendees enjoyed an array of Maître Rôtisseur Eddie Wilson, Chevalier Chris Stocker, Bailli Michael Procino, Dame Italian treats. Christine Weason, Chevalier Doug Tanner, Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh, and Maître de Bailli Michael Procino segued into the Table Restaurateur Donald Ball. business portion of the evening. Wielding his mighty sword, Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh inducted Chevaliers Chris Stocker and Doug Tanner; Dame de la Chaîne Christine Weason; and Maître Rôtisseur Eddie Wilson. He then elevated Vice Chancelier-Argentier Barry Wellman. Bailli Provincial Hirsh traded the sword for noble rootstock to admit Vice Chargé de Missions Cameron Bridger, Vice Chargée de Presse Sandy Mera Bridger, Vice Chargée de Médias Sociaux Ann Marie Procino, and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Wellman into the Mondiale. In addition, a Bronze Star of Excellence was bestowed upon Maître de Table Restaurateur Donald Ball for his immeasurable service to the bailliage. After the signing of the Gold Pages, the group relished a gastronomic tour of Italy. Much laughter could be heard as confrères hopped from table to table in the true spirit of carnevale! G

Chevalier Keith Moore.

TRIANGLE SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Cassoulet Night BY SANDY MERA BRIDGER, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON FEBRUARY 17, Chevalier Barry Bernstein and Debra Bernstein graciously opened their home to a close-knit group of Triangle Mondiale members, who experimented with wine pairings for a classic French dish. Officier Michael Albrecht’s greeting cocktail substituted cognac for the usual gin to continue the evening’s French theme. Chevalier Bernstein, whose team ranked fifth in the 2017 American Royal World Series of Barbecue, made sure that the Louisiana boudin was nothing short of perfection. Paula Wolfert quipped, “Cassoulet, like life itself, is not so simple as it seems.” So, what is the ideal wine partner for this dish made from duck confit and beans? Bailli Michael Procino opted for Italian Brunelli Amarone. Professionnel du Vin Laure Levesque turned to three different French regions and varietals—Savoie (100% altesse); Saint Joseph-Rhône (100% syrah); and Châteauneuf-du-Pape-Rhône (60% grenache, 40% syrah). Chevalier Ken Place supplied a magnum of Roberto Voerzio Barolo Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate 1999. Despite having different favorites, everyone agreed on feeling lucky to have friends with excellent taste. Hurricane sorbet cleared the savory richness of the cassoulet, allowing for the creamy sweetness of the king cake. G

Bailli Michael Procino.

SUMMER 2018

GASTRONOME

THE STARS OF CHAÎNE USA BAILLIS: Virgen M. Acosta de Obén, Mayagüez ● Dominick Addario, La Jolla ● Allison Ahrens, Denver (Mile High) ● Michael Babcock, Mid-Hudson ● Oleh Bachynsky, Bergen County ● Joseph F. Baldanzi, Jr., NapaSonoma ● Warren M. Barnett, Chattanooga ● Steve Benkowitz, Dallas ● Barbi Benton, Aspen ● Marshall L. Berenson, Boston ● Wilfred R. Beriau, Portland, Maine ● william Berke, Miami Beach ● Raymond C. Bertschy, Michigan (Detroit) ● Adam Blackwell, Périphérique “Beltway” ● Richard M. Bobb, Georgia Golden Isles ● Louis L. Bruno, Jr., Westchester ● Matt Bunkowski, Santa Fe ● Blaine Burgess, Little Rock ● Helen Cappuccino, Buffalo ● George G. Chandler, Memphis ● Keith Lynn Chappell, Oklahoma City ● Eric Alan Cooperman, The Cliffs ● Jose Costa, Charlotte ● Thomas E. Coundit, Sarasota ● Ann A. Crane, South Coast ● Yvette D. Cressend, New Orleans ● John David Crisafulli, San Diego ● Robert A. Cugini, Seattle ● James Cutter, Des Moines ● Patricia J. Daleo, Beaumont ● Paul J. Damiano, Rhode Island ● Carlton Ralph Daniel, Jackson ● Amarylis Davila-Agosto, Virgin Islands ● Vicki de Ville, Portland ● Gary Dunn, Hartford ● Derek J. Elder, Jamaica ● George Elliott, Cincinnati ● Garry Fehrman, Amelia Island ● Thomas Finck, Treasure Coast (Vero Beach) ● Michael D. Foster, Kansas City ● John L. Foy, Le Grande Cave du New Jersey ● Sue Gerkin, Tulsa ● Jean Philippe Gorley, Grand Cayman ● Roger Habisreutinger, Spartanburg ● Glenn T. Hammer, Monterey Peninsula ● Erik B. Harrigan, Albuquerque ● William M. Harris, Albany ● Richard Hiller, Shreveport ● Cynthia F. Himmelfarb, Nashville ● Allyson Hirsh, Myrtle Beach ● Rich Milton Hoffman, Baltimore ● Ginnie Kagan, Connecticut ● Michael H. Kalkstein, Hillsborough ● Matthew N. Karstetter, Delaware Valley ● Elliot Katz, San Francisco ● John D. Kennedy, Springfield ● Cheryl Kenny, Lacs et des Bois (The Woodlands) ● Toby King, Hawaii Island (Big Island) ● Marlene Klamt, Santa Ynez Valley ● Thomas J. Knox, Philadelphia ● Sandra D. Kraft, Colonial New England ● Jill M. Kummer, Pittsburgh ● Erik Joel Laykin, Los Angeles ● Margaret Leto, Minneapolis ● Scott A. Limstrom, Anchorage ● Ted Lippman, Atlantic City ● Janina Loire, Silicon Valley ● Deborah Anne Long, Lake Shore ● John R. Magauran, Kauai/Oahu ● Joseph A. Marino, New Jersey (Montclair) ● Kimi J. Matar, Honolulu ● Judith Mazza, Washington, D.C. ● James L. McCready, Jr., Hilton Head ● Linda Reis McGovern, St Louis ● B. Theo Mellion, Wichita ● Leslie Ann Merle, Laguna ● Jacques J. Moore, Jr., Richmond ● Randal K. Moore, Fort Worth ● Lee Nickey Morgenthaler, Étoile Solitaire (Houston) ● Samia Mounts, Scottsdale ● John Thomas O’Connell, Lehigh Valley ● Isabella H. Overend, Nassau ● James A. Nelson, Wilmington ● Martin Perham, Salt Lake City ● Cheryl L. Pokoradi, Grand Cayman ● Carolyn Woodward Pope, Vail ● Beth Poslusny, Asheville ● Jan V. Pozzi, Galveston ● Robert Procida, Tampa Sun Coast ● Michael Alessandro Procino, Triangle ● Nancy E. Radlauer, Miami ● Beth B. Roldan, Chicago ● Jerome Rosenthal, Fort Lauderdale ● Adele Rugg, Maui ● Larry Ruvo, Las Vegas ● M. Ann Sanford, Toledo ● Lynette J.W. Savage, Tulsa ● Dennis G. Shay, Austin ● Joseph Sheehan, Sacramento ● Dee Dee Sheffield, Space Coast ● Anthony D. Shipp, Beverly Hills ● J. Coleman Shouse, Greenville ● Jerome Siller, Long Island ● Richard T. Smith, Peachtree ● Herbert F. Spasser, Atlanta ● Liz Spitler, Vermont ● Vivian Spurlock Ray, San Antonio ● George A. Staikos, Garden Sate ● Ronald K. Stitch, Santa Barbara/Ojai ● Craig C. Surdy, Palm Springs ● John R. Swonson, Houston ● David E. Szkutak, Nord Est de la Floride ● Barry L. Taylor, Grand Bahama ● Travis Taylor, Baton Rouge ● Susan A. Teiser, The First State ● Jorge L. Torres, Ponce ● Chris Tragakis, Charleston ● Enrique Umpierre, San Juan ● Muriel K. Uttal, Orlando ● Anwar M. Vardag, Boca Raton ● William J. Vareschi, Bonita ● Jean-Yves Vendeville, Savannah ● Thomas R. Wahl, Jr., Rochester Finger Lakes ● James Wallick, New York ● Gregory Charles Wallis, Indianapolis ● Christopher D. Walther, Wisconsin (Milwaukee) ● Leila Warren, West Palm Beach ● Roger Weatherburn-Baker, Naples ● Ranson Webster, Reno ● William Wecker, Jackson Hole ● David A. Weinberg, Newport Beach ● Melisande J. Wolff, Palm Beach ● Paula T. Woolsey, Sedona ● BAILLIS PROVINCIAUX: Bertrand O. de Boutray, Pacific Northwest ● John Charles Fannin III, Mid-Atlantic ● Alan R. Feuerstein, Caribbean/Atlantic Islands ● William A. Hirsh, South Central ● Philip I. Kress, Far West ● Maurice W. Nicholson, Hawaii/Pacific Islands ● William Salomon, Southwest ● Mont P. Stern, Northeast ● Susan L. Vareschi, Southeast ● Renee M. Wilmeth, Midwest ● BAILLI DÉLÉGUÉ DES ETATS UNIS: Harold S. Small