Gastronome Extra! Winter2017

Page 1

WINTER 2017

Regions BAILLIS PROVINCIAUX UPDATES

Bailliages LOCAL EVENTS

Members

NEW OFFICERS & AWARDS

Philanthropy FOUNDATION FRIENDS


CONTENTS

25

44

33

38

31

3 A Message from the Editor-in-Chief • 4 Calendar • 5 Letter from the President Philanthropy :: 6 Foundation Friends Feature :: 7 Spotlight on Chef Rene Marquis Awards & Honors :: 8 New Officers, Awards, and In Memoriam Regions :: 10 Regional Updates Culinary Colloquy :: 15 Reflections on a Celebrity Chef Bailliages :: 16 Events: Albany • Atlanta • Boston • Cincinnati • Colonial New England • Delaware Valley • Des Moines Galveston • Garden State • Grand Bahama • Hartford • Indianapolis • Kansas City • La Grande Cave du New Jersey Lacs et des Bois • Lake Shore • Maui • Memphis • Miami • Michigan • Myrtle Beach • New Orleans • Peachtree • Philadelphia San Antonio • San Francisco • Springfield • Tampa Sun Coast • Toledo • Tulsa • Vail • Vermont • Virgin Islands

2

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017


LETTER

A Message from the Editor-in-Chief Besides the many local bailliage stories in this December issue of Gastronome Extra!, we are featuring a special chef-member who has become our official military liaison. Esteemed chef Rene Marquis’s story can be found on page 7. I am pleased to introduce GE!’s newest section—Regional Updates. We are by far the largest chapter in the world of the Chaîne, with ten regions and ten talented, committed regional baillis who have added to their regions’ growth and vigor. Read about their accomplishments and their plans for 2018. On pages 8 and 9, we list the many elevations and awards granted to our members. Be proud; we have quite a distinguished group among us. We are reintroducing Culinary Colloquy—book, movie, and media reviews. Our new reviewer is the astute Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli Marshall Berenson. Should be fun! Our national Gastronome and GE! team provides you with a magazine four times a year: two hardcopy, tabletop books (Gastronome) and two online magazines (GE!). Much thought and planning go into each. Without partiality, we run every story we receive that meets our criteria for publishing. We have an incredible team of regional chargés de presse to assist our baillis and vice chargés de presse and to help us meet our national goal—100% bailliage representation in our magazines. Best regards,

Marie C. Addario Editor-in-Chief, Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! Vice Chargée de Presse National

Letters to the Editor-in-Chief may be sent to presse@chaineus.org OR c/o the Chaîne House at Fairleigh Dickinson University, 285 Madison Avenue, Madison, NJ 07940.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

3


CALENDAR

MARCH 2-4

SOUTHWEST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE Austin, Texas Contact: Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon at (210) 492-4479 or bill@billsalomon.com

2-4

F AR WEST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE AND YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION Santa Fe, New Mexico Contact: Bailli Provincial Phil Kress at (714) 814-2624 or pkress@aol.com

16-18

IDWEST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE AND YOUNG CHEFS M RÔTISSEURS/PASTRY COMPETITIONS Cincinnati, Ohio Contact: Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth at (317) 727-5487 or wilmeth.renee@gmail.com

CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS

GASTRONOME Extra! Winter 2017

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Marie Addario

PUBLISHER

Michelle Metter

23-24 NORTHEAST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS/PASTRY COMPETITIONS

Buffalo, New York Contact: Bailli Provincial Mont Stern at (716) 689-7698 or drwine57@gmail.com

ART & DESIGN

artattack!creative

APRIL 13-15

ACIFIC NORTHWEST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE AND P YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION San Jose, California Contact: Bailli Provincial Bertrand de Boutray at (206) 527-804 or bertrand@bertrandchezvous.com

MANAGING EDITOR

Carolyn March

Published by the U.S. Confrérie de la

MID-ATLANTIC ASSEMBLAGE Philadelphia Pennsylvania Contact: Bailli Provincial John Fannin III at (302) 479-9212 or john.fannin@chainemidatlantic.org

Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Copyright 2017

27-29

periodical may be reproduced without

19-21

NORTHEAST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE New York, New York Contact: Bailli Provincial Mont Stern at (716) 689-7698 or drwine57@gmail.com

Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Ltd., a New York not-for-profit corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this

the permission of the publisher.

MAY 4-6 NATIONAL SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN MEETING AND YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION Paso Robles, California Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or www.chaineus.org

15-30

HILLSBOROUGH CHAÎNE CRUISE Monte Carlo to Venice Contact: Hillsborough Bailli Honoraire Lois Gogol at (650) 344-4920 or pinot_lois@msn.com

17-19

NATIONAL CULINARY WEEKEND AND YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION Charleston, South Carolina Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or www.chaineus.org

CONNECT TO

GASTRONOME

JUNE 8-10

SOUTH CENTRAL REGIONAL MONDIALE EVENT Asheville, North Carolina Contact: Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh at (917) 612-6714 or wahirsh@aol.com

15-17

INTERNATIONAL GENERAL ASSEMBLY Paris, France Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or www.chaineus.org

JULY 14

4

::

“DINNER OF THE CENTURY” Co-hosted by the American Academy of Chefs and the Chaîne de Rôtisseurs Royal Sonesta Hotel, New Orleans, Louisiana Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or www.chaineus.org CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

ON THE COVER: Photo by Kellie LeFever.


LETTER

Letter from the President Dear Chaîne Members, We continued to build on our strengths and enhanced the membership experience in 2017 and are looking forward to another great year in 2018. Our newly elected Chancelier National Ira Falk is assisting newly appointed Grand Echanson Joseph D’Ambrosio with planning for our National Mondiale Weekend. Joe, along with Vice Echanson National Geoff Labitzke, MW, is preparing our new round of Young Sommeliers Competitions. If you know aspiring and talented young sommeliers, introduce them to the Chaîne and our competition. The events of the Chicago Grand Chapitre will linger in our memories for all the right reasons thanks to the dedicated efforts of Conseiller Gastronomique National Mon Roldan, Chicago Bailli Beth Roldan, Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth, and Gastronomique National Honoraire/Chancelier National Ira Falk, and all of the members of the Chicago team. Mon has now turned his attention to the planning for our 2018 Grand Chapitre to be held in Seattle, Washington from October 4-7, 2018. Seattle Bailli Robert Cugini, Bailli Provincial Bertrand de Boutray, and the Seattle team have outlined their plans and are implementing them to make it a truly memorable experience for all. Our Mondiale Weekend and National Young Sommeliers Competition Finals will be in Paso Robles, California from May 3-6, 2018. Our Culinary Weekend and National Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition Finals will be in Charleston, South Carolina from May 18-20, 2018. Plan to attend either or both. Registration materials for them should be available by February 1. Our website re-do launched, and virtually every day a new local bailliage website is being added. Check out yours and, when you are planning a trip, check out events of bailliages in the areas where you will travel. You can also access the national calendar (with bailliage events) and our Travel Opportunities Page with regional, national, and international events listed for your consideration. Go, participate, enjoy, have fun! The Chaîne’s operations are dependent upon an “all-volunteer army.” I am happy to report that the Brillat-Savarin Médaille de Mérite was awarded to John Burson, Keith Chappell, and Gene Daly at our Grand Chapitre in Chicago for their commitment to the Chaîne Foundation and the many students that have benefitted from scholarship awards that were given as a result of their efforts. Thank you to all our volunteers for all that you do to make the Chaîne the best that it can be and fun for all! And, one last item, who did you Share the Chaîne with last month? Share the Chaîne again this month with a friend or family member. Both they and we will thank you for doing so. Vive la Chaîne!

Harold S. Small Bailli Délégué des Etats-Unis

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

5


FOUNDATION FRIENDS

Endowments L Marie and Dominick Addario Endowed Fund L L Clyde Braunstein Endowed Fund L L Barbara and John Burson Endowed Fund L L Robert and Nadine Pressner Endowed Fund L L Barbara and Irwin Weinberg Endowed Fund L

Annual Gifts Anonymous Oleh & Sarah Bachynsky Bruce Bailey Judith Bardwick Michael Belsley Charles Bennett Harry Bradbury Michele Braunstein James Burr Hélène Burris Barbara Burson John Burson Andrew & Helen Cappuccino Keith Chappell Young Chappell Cincinnati Bailliage Douglas Cohen Rufus Cressend John Crisafulli Bert Cutino Eugene Daly Bertrand de Boutray Delaware Valley Bailliage David Distefano William Eckerle

George Elliott Ira Falk Ray Farris II Leo Flischel & The Greater Cincinnati Foundation Susan Flischel & The Greater Cincinnati Foundation Barbara Fodor Brian Foord Allen Frederic Lois Ferrero Gogol Stanley Gogol David Greenlee Paul Haar Jerry Harrington Allyson Hirsh Burton H. Hobson Hospitality Culinaire, Inc. Lee Huang Gabor Huszar Robin Jacobs Elan Jacoby Tyrie Jenkins Bill Joy Michael Kalkstein Matthew Karstetter

Cheryl Kenny Steve Kenny Dan Ketelaars Thomas Knox Gerald Kraft Philip Kress Karl Krout John Kucewicz, Jr. Jill Kummer* Bruce Liebert John Magauran Shelly Margolis Mary Jane Mathis John T. Mayer Sharon McCarthy & Banfi Vintners Foundation Theo Mellion Leslie Merle Robert Miller Sandi Moran Thomas Moran Jean Nevins Maurice Nicholson George Norcross Marcelo Obén Isabella Overend

Reimund Pitz Jan Pozzi Robert Procida Allison Reams Walter Renner III Mon Roldan William Salomon M. Ann Sanford Harold S. & Susan Small Southeast Region Joel Spiro Mont Stern Bryan Stirrat Jeanne Stirrat Ronald Stitch Joan & David Szkutak Brian Thorne Michael Ty Allen & Denise Valliant Thomas Wahl Audrey Weaver David Weinberg Renee Wilmeth David Wilson William Wortman, Jr.

*In memory of Peter Hanowich NOTE: Endowments of $10,000 or more will be maintained as principal with only yearly income supporting the purposes of the Foundation. Donors will be acknowledged in perpetuity. Donations received after November 21, 2017 will be included in the next issue of Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! 6

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017


PHOTOS BY DAVID RAMSEY COMMERCIAL PHOTOGRAPHY

FEATURE

Spotlight on Chef Rene Marquis:

The Chaîne’s New Military Liaison ON MAY 6, during the National Culinary Weekend/Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition, Bailli Délégué National Harold Small appointed Master Sergeant (R) Rene J. Marquis ‘92, CEC, CCE, CCA, AAC, ACE, to a new Chaîne position: Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National, Militaires. The position was recommended by Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National Reimund Pitz, who noted that the organization has missed opportunities in the area of chefs in the military. The individual in this position is expected to assist in developing programs to engage more military chefs as members of the Chaîne and participants in the Chaîne’s programs and competitions. Chef Marquis is the military regional director of the American Academy of Chefs; the special military advisor for the World Association of Chefs’ Societies Culinary Competition Committee; and the military team liaison for the American Culinary Federation’s

Culinary Team USA 2020. He is also president of the ACF’s Tampa Bay Chapter. His army career was encouraged by a four-star general who asked him to become his personal chef. As a result, Master Sergeant (R) Marquis alternated between cooking meals for high-ranking dignitaries and judging and competing in international culinary competitions. He has competed three times each in the Culinary World Cup and the Culinary Olympics. Chef Marquis is a twenty-one-year veteran who has visited more than fifty countries around the world, cooking, teaching, and competing while proudly serving his country. Today, he is one of the highest-­certified chefs in the military. There were only four certified ACF judges on active duty when he was serving, and he was the only Culinary Institute of America graduate among them. G WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

7


AWARDS, HONORS & MEDALS

CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR NEWEST NATIONAL AND REGIONAL OFFICERS NATIONAL OFFICERS ���������������������������������������������������������������� JOSEPH J. D’AMBROSIO, Grand Echanson (New York Bailliage) IRA A. FALK, Chancelier National (San Diego Bailliage) BRUCE W. FOUDREE, Jurisconsult (Lake Shore Bailliage) STEPHEN R. GROSS, Argentier National (Atlanta Bailliage) HEINZ U. HOFMANN, Chancelier Délégué, Acádemie de Gastronomie Brillat-Savarin (Laguna Bailliage) GEOFFREY LABITZKE, Vice Echanson National (NapaSonoma Bailliage)

DAN A.W. KETELAARS, Far West Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial (Laguna Bailliage) PHILIP I. KRESS, Far West Bailli Provincial (Laguna Bailliage) MARILYN O. LAROCQUE, Far West Chargée de Presse Provincial (Las Vegas Bailliage) RYAN R. LOO, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial (Kauai/Oahu Bailliage)

SIMEON YEE ROLDAN, Conseiller Gastronomique National (Chicago Bailliage)

FRANK L. MACHOVER, Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Echanson Provincial (Virgin Islands Bailliage)

JOSEPH BONAPARTE, South Central Conseiller Culinaire Provincial (Myrtle Beach Bailliage) DEREK J. ELDER, Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Chambellan Provincial (Jamaica Bailliage) JOHN C. FANNIN III, Mid-Atlantic Bailli Provincial (First State Bailliage) ALAN R. FEUERSTEIN, Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Bailli Provincial (Virgin Islands Bailliage) JOHN F. FLAMMANG, Southeast Chargé de Presse Provincial (Bonita Bailliage)

MARY D. MAESER, South Central Chargée de Presse Provincial (Myrtle Beach Bailliage) RUTH V. MANCHESTER, Southeast Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial (Naples Bailliage) CHARLES B. MARSHALL, Far West Echanson Provincial (South Coast Bailliage) ROBERT A. MILLER, Far West Chambellan Provincial (Salt Lake City Bailliage) MAURICE W. NICHOLSON, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Bailli Provincial (Kauai/Oahu Bailliage) ROBERT A. PRESSNER, Southeast Chambellan Provincial (Tampa Sun Coast Bailliage)

STUART M. GOLDBERG, Mid-Atlantic Chambellan Provincial (Baltimore Bailliage)

FRANELLE ROGERS, Southwest Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial (Houston Bailliage)

DAVID W. GREENLEE, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chargé de Presse Provincial (Kauai/Oahu Bailliage)

PAUL SCHULZE, Mid-Atlantic Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial (Philadelphia Bailliage)

DAVID J. HACKETT, Southeast Conseiller Culinaire Provincial (Miami Bailliage)

MONT P. STERN, Northeast Bailli Provincial (Buffalo Bailliage)

THOMAS A. HANNUM, Mid-Atlantic Conseiller Culinaire Provincial (First State Bailliage) COLIN HAZAMA, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Conseiller Culinaire Provincial (Kauai/Oahu Bailliage)

::

JUDITH L. KELLOGG, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chambellan Provincial (Kauai/Oahu Bailliage)

THOMAS J. MACRINA, Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National (Delaware Valley Bailliage)

REGIONAL OFFICERS ����������������������������������������������������������������

8

MATTHEW N. KARSTETTER, Mid-Atlantic Chambellan Provincial (Delaware Valley Bailliage)

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

MICAH SUDERMAN, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Echanson Provincial (Kauai/Oahu Bailliage) SUSAN L. VARESCHI, Southeast Bailli Provincial (Bonita Bailliage) GREGORY C. WALLIS, Midwest Echanson Provincial (Indianapolis Bailliage)


AWARDS, HONORS & MEDALS

CHAÎNE STARS of EXCELLENCE GOLD ��������������������������������������������������������������������������

CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR NEWEST BAILLIS AND COMMITTEE MEMBERS

SIMEON YEE ROLDAN, Conseiller Gastronomique National (Chicago Bailliage)

BAILLIS ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� JOSEPH F. BALDANZI, JR., Napa-Sonoma Bailli

SILVER ������������������������������������������������������������������������

MATT BUNKOWSKI, Santa Fe Bailli

HELEN CAPPUCCINO, Northeast Chargée de Presse

KEITH L. CHAPPELL, Oklahoma City Bailli

Provincial/Buffalo Bailli CHRISTOPHER A. KOETKE, Midwest Conseiller Culinaire Provincial (Chicago Bailliage) ELIZABETH B. ROLDAN, Chicago Bailli BRONZE ���������������������������������������������������������������������� STEPHEN J. BENKOWITZ, Dallas Bailli JAMES L. GARARD III, Chicago Vice Chargé de Missions ALLEN I. KUTCHINS, Chicago Vice Chancelier-Argentier

AMARYLIS DAVILA-AGOSTO, Virgin Islands Bailli VICKI L. DE VILLE, Portland Bailli ROGER HABISREUTINGER, Spartanburg Bailli GINNIE KAGAN, Connecticut Bailli MICHAEL H. KALKSTEIN, Hillsborough Bailli SANDRA D. KRAFT, Colonial New England Bailli JOHN R. MAGAURAN, Kauai/Oahu Bailli LESLIE ANN MERLE, Laguna Bailli LEE NICKEY MORGENTHALER, Étoile Solitaire Bailli

BETH ANN LANG, Chicago Vice Chargée de Missions

MARTIN PERHAM, Salt Lake City Bailli

CHARLES WARNER, Memphis Vice Echanson

ROBERT PROCIDA, Tampa Sun Coast Bailli ELIZABETH R. ROLDAN, Chicago Bailli

BRILLAT-SAVARIN MEDALS

JEROME ROSENTHAL, Fort Lauderdale Bailli

MÉDAILLE DE MÉRITE ������������������������������������������������

JOHN R. SWONSON, Houston Bailli

JOHN H. BURSON, Foundation Chair (Toledo Bailliage)

DAVID E. SZKUTAK, Nord Est de la Floride Bailli

KEITH L. CHAPPELL, Oklahoma City Bailli

BARRY L. TAYLOR, Grand Bahama Bailli

EUGENE F. DALY, Napa-Sonoma Bailli Honoraire

SUSAN A. TEISER, First State Bailli

VIKRAM GARG, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Conseiller

CHRIS TRAGAKIS, Charleston Bailli

Culinaire Provincial Honoraire (Honolulu Bailliage)

GEORGE A. STAIKOS, Garden State Bailli

WILLIAM J. VARESCHI, Bonita Bailli GREGORY C. WALLIS, Indianapolis Bailli COMMITTEE MEMBERS ��������������������������������������������������������������

In Memoriam LORETTA H. ALSPACH, Laguna Dame de la Chaîne DAVID BERMAN, Boston Vice Echanson Honoraire DOROTHY E. EDWARDS, Triangle Dame de la Chaîne HARRY GRUBERT, Washington, D.C. Chevalier KIRK R. LAVIGNE, Shreveport Bailli Honoraire WILLIAM S. POULTON, Rochester Finger Lakes Chevalier CHARLES J. SINDELAR, Palm Springs Vice Chargé de Missions

JOHN H. BURSON, Appointed Election Committee Member (Toledo Bailliage) JOHN C. FANNIN III, Appointed Election Committee Member (First State Bailliage) DENNIS P. LEGOLVAN, Appointed Election Committee Member (Triangle Bailliage) ••••• MARK W. BERMANN, Elected Audit Committee Member (Houston Bailliage) ALLEN I. KUTCHINS, Elected Audit Committee Member (Chicago Bailliage) M. ANN SANFORD, Elected Audit Committee Member (Toledo Bailliage)

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

9


REGIONS

Baillis Provinciaux Updates CARIBBEAN/ATLANTIC ISLANDS The Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Region’s unique Chaîne jurisdiction encompasses five separate nations. We have two bailliages in the Commonwealth of the Bahamas; three chapters in the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico; and one each in the British Overseas Territory of the Cayman Islands, the Commonwealth of Jamaica, and the unincorporated territory of the U.S. Virgin Islands. Our eight bailliages represent an array of Caribbean cultures. We are proud of the distinction that our region is comprised of five autonomous countries! During the past year, our bailliages have held many successful Chaîne events. Inter-island camaraderie throughout the region is very strong. Despite the overwhelming destruction suffered by Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico residents as a result of the recent hurricane, we are quickly rebuilding. We look forward to revitalization and expect an active, successful 2018. Our two bailliages in the Bahamas, as well as the Grand Cayman and Jamaica chapters, will carry the Chaîne torch forward during this period devoted to the rebuilding of our fellow Chaîne-member islands. C/AI Bailli Provincial Alan Feuerstein.

Alan Feuerstein, Bailli Provincial

FAR WEST We are busy getting our new board inducted, organized, and introduced to our baillis and have begun planning our next assemblage, which will take place in Santa Fe from March 2-4. It promises to be an amazing weekend! The Far West Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition will be held concurrently. There will also be a ribbon cutting for our new Chaîne Kitchen in Santa Fe and a black-tie induction gala at the Four Seasons. We are currently looking into whether our regional Young Sommeliers Competition can be held that weekend at the same venue. I am happy to announce the revival of the Los Angeles Bailliage. We are working diligently to start a new bailliage in the Marina Del Ray/Santa Monica area as well. Given the prevalence of social media in our lives, I am looking for an individual who has working knowledge of how to use social media to promote the Chaîne as well as an understanding of how to connect the region’s many bailliages. I am grateful to Honolulu Bailli Kimi Matar, who has volunteered to help with this implementation. The Far West Region is looking forward to another wonderful year filled with camaraderie and great food and wine. Vive la Chaîne! Philip Kress, Bailli Provincial

FW Bailli Provincial Philip Kress.

10

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017


REGIONS

HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS I am happy to report that all four Hawaii/Pacific Islands bailliages are producing successful events for their members. During my tenure as bailli provincial, the region will continue to produce exceptional candidates for the Young Sommeliers and Young Chefs Rôtisseurs competitions. Furthermore, we will continue to fundraise for local culinary arts programs. I’m proud to report that for the past two years the Kauai/Oahu Chapter has held successful fundraisers. In 2016, three Kapiolani Community College culinary students received substantial scholarships for their educations. Royal Hawaiian Hotel Executive Chef Colin Hazama—winner of the 2006 Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition—will serve as conseiller culinaire provincial, while Moana Surfrider Food and Beverage Director Ryan Loo—winner of the 2002 Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition—is our new conseiller gastronomique provincial. They are excited to coordinate the 2018 Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. As our new echanson provincial, Azure Restaurant General Manager Micah Suderman will organize the 2018 Young Sommeliers Competition. Former Chargée de Presse Provincial Judith Kellogg has accepted the position of chambellan provincial. She brings years of experience with her, and I appreciate her dedication to the Chaîne. One of my goals as bailli provincial is to work with baillis to increase Chaîne membership and Mondiale participation. Vive la Chaîne! Vive la Société!

H/PI Bailli Provincial Maurice Nicholson.

Maurice Nicholson, Bailli Provincial

MID-ATLANTIC Great things are happening in the Mid-Atlantic Region! Much has been accomplished since July 1, including: ::

Institution of a formal officer appointment process to include candidate identification, national officer recommendations/ consultation where required, candidate performance expectation discussions, and written offers and notices of appointment.

::

Formation of the Conseil Provincial Mid-Atlantic as the regional governing council composed of the regional officers and all baillis in the region. The goal of the Conseil is to give baillis a voice in regional administration and direct interaction with regional officers.

::

Development of Officer Performance Expectations, which serve much like position descriptions, for each regional office. Performance expectations are summarized in two parts: responsibilities as an appointed officer and member of the Conseil and duties specific to each office. Serving as a condition of appointment, the intent is to establish a clear and mutual understanding of each role and to convey excerpts from relevant provisions of our national bylaws—so that we all “sing from the same sheet of music.”

::

Plans for a Mid-Atlantic Regional Assemblage every year for the next three years.

John Fannin III, Bailli Provincial

MA Bailli Provincial John Fannin III.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

11


REGIONS

MIDWEST Greetings from the Midwest Region! It has been a busy fall, with lots of exciting events on the horizon for 2018. Kudos to newly elevated Chicago Bailli Beth Roldan and Conseiller Gastronomique National Mon Roldan for orchestrating a fantastic Grand Chapitre! Mark your calendars for next year’s Grand Chapitre from October 4-7 in Seattle. Also mark your calendars for the 2018 Midwest Regional Assemblage and Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Pastry competitions during the weekend of March 15-17. Cincinnati Bailli George Elliott and his team are planning events to showcase the city’s best food and wines as well as the competitions at culinary partner Cincinnati State University. Look for functions on Thursday and Friday evenings. There will be an officers meeting and lunch on Friday and a gala to celebrate our culinary superstars on Saturday night! Special thanks to Pittsburgh Bailli (and Bailli Provincial Honoraire) Jill Kummer for organizing the first Cleveland meet and greet in October. The Pittsburgh Bailliage hosted a fall weekend featuring a meet and greet for prospective members at Sirna & Sons and a black-tie dinner prepared by Pittsburgh Maître Rôtisseur Scott Ryan at Cleveland’s renowned Country Club. A great time was had by all.

MW Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth.

Renee Wilmeth, Bailli Provincial

NORTHEAST The Northeast Region is flourishing with thirteen active bailliages. We have two new baillis: Sandy Kraft (Colonial New England) and Ginnie Kagan (Connecticut). Our newest bailliage, Vermont, has hosted two events that were successful in building momentum for the chapter. A new bailliage is in the works in Maine. Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli Marshall Berenson and Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National Michael Ty hosted a meet and greet in Portland with prospective Bailli Wilfred Beriau. Our Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Pastry competitions will be held at Erie County Community College in Buffalo during the weekend of March 23-24. Special thanks to Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Yono Purnono, Buffalo Maître Rôtisseur Mark Wright, and the ECCC team. The Northeast Regional Assemblage will be held at the University Club of New York in New York City from April 27-29. Special thanks to Chambellan Provincial/New York Bailli Jim Wallick, Grand Echanson Joe D’Ambrosio, and their team for planning what we know will be an amazing assemblage! On Sunday, April 29, Connecticut Bailli Kagan is planning a dinner in New Haven to honor and induct Jacques Pepin. Please consider attending both the assemblage and the Jacques Pepin dinner. Plans are in the works for our 2018 regional Mondiale event. Mont Stern, Bailli Provincial NE Bailli Provincial Mont Stern.

12

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017


REGIONS

PACIFIC NORTHWEST With nine active bailliages, the Pacific Northwest Region stretches from Alaska down to northern California. This year, prior to the National Mondiale Weekend (which took place in our own backyard—Portland, Oregon), we held a mini-assemblage at the Allison Inn & Spa. It was a great opportunity for our baillis to gather in an informal but productive setting. We were reminded of our Chaîne traditions and values while sharing wonderful meals and attending interactive workshops covering such topics as successful local fundraising; local Young Chefs Rôtisseurs competitions; social media; creating memorable events; and goals for membership. We all left feeling reenergized, full of new ideas, and happy to have shared these moments of camaraderie that continue to be the rock-solid foundation of our Confrérie. Our assemblage will take place in San Jose in mid-April. Finally, we are in the process of rebuilding the Portland Chapter, and very soon we will be welcoming a new bailli. The Pacific Northwest Region is blessed to have such a dedicated team of enthusiastic and talented baillis! Bertrand de Boutray, Bailli Provincial

SOUTH CENTRAL

PNW Bailli Provincial Bertrand de Boutray.

Congratulations and welcome to the new Charleston (South Carolina) Bailliage! Bailli Chris Tragakis and Vice Conseiller Culinaire Roger Shanfeld inducted twenty-nine members at the chapter’s inaugural dinner on September 6. The Wilmington (North Carolina) Chapter’s inaugural induction dinner is scheduled for December 7. Santa Barbara/Ojai Bailli Honoraire Jim Nelson is organizing the event. Work is also being done on behalf of two new bailliages that are slated to launch in 2018. We are excited to host the National Culinary Weekend and Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition in Charleston from May 17-19. Confrères and guests will enjoy a weekend of Southern hospitality in the “Holy City.” We are also holding a Mondiale “Wine Experience Weekend” at the Biltmore Estate from June 8-9. Located in the Blue Ridge Mountains, the estate is one of the country’s premier vacation destinations. Gourmet food, fine wines, and Chaîne camaraderie will make for an experience that attendees will long remember. The Triangle Bailliage announced that it was honored to have Governor Roy Cooper proclaim November 5, 2017 “Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Day” in North Carolina! Tony Hirsh, Bailli Provincial

SC Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

13


REGIONS

SOUTHEAST The Southeast Region is thriving with fifteen active bailliages. We have four new baillis: Bob Procida (Tampa Sun Coast), Jerry Rosenthal (Fort Lauderdale), Dave Szkutak (Norde Est de la Floride), and Bill Vareschi (Bonita). Our new regional officers are Bailli Provincial Susan Vareschi, Chargé de Presse Provincial John Flammang, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial David Hackett, Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Ruth Manchester, and Chambellan Provincial Bob Pressner. Our newest bailliage, Treasure Coast, had an induction class of twentyeight. The chapter continues to grow and is slated to have another large induction ceremony in March. We are rebuilding the Orlando Bailliage after the loss of many professional members due to the closing of Le Cordon Bleu. Fort Lauderdale is also in the rebuilding process. Miami and Naples continue to push to be the largest bailliage in the region, each with more than 140 members. A new bailliage is in the works and should be announced by year’s end. Dates for the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Young Sommeliers competitions will be announced soon. As I will be attending all induction events this season to meet our members, I am postponing an assemblage until fall 2018 or spring 2019.

SE Bailli Provincial Susan Vareschi.

Susan Vareschi, Bailli Provincial

SOUTHWEST The Southwest Region is pleased to announce that its annual assemblage will take place in Austin from March 2-4. Austin Bailli Dennis Shay and Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Franelle Rogers are working hard to ensure that all in attendance enjoy the hospitality and history of Central Texas. The region’s Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition, under the direction of Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Leslie Bartosh, will also be held that weekend. Congratulations to the Wichita Bailliage on the celebration of its fiftieth anniversary on December 6. Bill Salomon, Bailli Provincial

SW Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon.

14

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017


CULINARY COLLOQUY

BY MARSHALL L. BERENSON, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli

Wither the TV Chef, or “You Donkey!” LOVE THEM OR loathe them, TV chefs are here to stay. Through the wide exposure they get and give to gastronomy and the culinary arts, these reality-TV celebrities and their online how-to videos help fuel the “foodie explosion.” The earnest beginnings of learn-to-cook TV shows were rooted by the likes of Julia Child, Graham Kerr, and Jacques Pepin. Compare those to today’s Top Chef, Iron Chef, or Chopped—scripted competitions among highly trained, established chefs with little instruction and only voyeuristic observation. Overshadowing this new genre is Chef Gordon Ramsay and his production empire. Since the early 2000s, on the BBC and Fox networks, Chef Ramsay’s various entertainment brands have become ubiquitous. They also often show the chef berating his contestant-cooks before casting them aside. His TV persona notwithstanding, the sixteen Michelin stars his various restaurant operations have amassed are a testament to his highly successful career as chef, restaurateur, and businessperson. Case in point is an online video of Chef Ramsay making the “perfect steak sandwich.” His passion for cooking is clear as he tenderly sears and oven roasts a chateaubriand and whips up tomato relish, some mustard aïoli, and grilling bread before slicing and plating—a sublime experience. What a stark contrast to his TV persona, with the name-calling and intimidation! Bellowing at an errant cook, calling him or her a “donkey” may seem extreme, but if a sonic shove seems needed to get peak performance out of his team, then it becomes part of the show. Now in its fifteenth season, Hell’s Kitchen may be the ultimate in reality cooking shows, with elements of Survivor (isolation of the contestants), Big Brother (brutal interactive group humiliation), and American Idol (weekly eliminations). However, all reports indicate that offscreen Chef Ramsay is pleasant and very supportive of the contestants and his crew—the negativity he displays on TV is “just acting.” Meeting him at the Boston shoot of Kitchen Nightmares (a show in which failing restaurants are given tough love) was proof enough for me of the gentle culinary artist. He popped out of the kitchen before service, so I trotted over to meet him. • • • • • ME: Good evening, Chef. Thank you so much for having us in tonight. CHEF RAMSAY: Right, thanks so much for coming. • • • • • That was the extent of the conversation—polite and to the point. No yelling or name-calling. Indeed, “all the world’s a stage,” and Chef Ramsay is a great player in his field. G

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

15


BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY WILLIAM HARRIS

ALBANY SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Piemonte—Off the Beaten Track BY MICHAEL THOMSON, Vice Echanson

AT 677 PRIME on April 4, Albany Mondiale members were transported to Italy’s Piemonte region via the back roads of lesserknown appellations and varietals. Vigneron Claudio Mariotto and Chambellan Provincial Hon. Frank Tate, Jr. and Vice Echanson Michael Thomson and Vice Professionnel du Vin Joseph DeFronzo, a fine wine importer, led Conseiller des Bailliages National Hon. Joel Spiro. Chancelier-Argentier Holly Katz. the journey. The tasting began with Timorasso. Vigneron Mariotto noted that this had been a blending and grappa-production grape that became an independent star in the 1990s. Attendees tasted four bottlings from three vintages. Derthona 2010 was supple and silky, while Pitasso 2015 had bracing acidity and spice, with both improving after forty-five minutes of aeration. These are whites that can age! Vigneron Mariotto explained that in the “major” areas of Piemonte, barbera does not have the star status of barolo and barbaresco. However, in “lesser” appellations such as Colli Tortonesi, barbera gets pride of place. Barbera Vho 2005 yielded secondary and tertiary characteristics but was still vibrant and capable of further aging. Barbera Poggio del Rosso 2012 displayed a more youthful persona with forward-fruit tannins. Most attendees hadn’t heard of the Colli Tortonesi appellation or many of the variChevalier Frank Santaniello, Dame Judy Edwards, and Officier Keith Edwards. etals they tasted. By the end of the night, however, they were very happy to have made their acquaintance! G

ATLANTA

Run for the Roses

South City Kitchen May 7, 2017 BOURBON-CURED SALMON Marinated Onions, Avocado, Lemon Crème

BY HERBERT SPASSER, Bailli

ON MAY 7, the Atlanta Chapter was off and running...to South City Kitchen for a post-Kentucky Derby fête. This new Buckhead restaurant is the younger sibling of its namesake in Midtown—an icon for more than twenty-five years. Helming the Buckhead establishment is Officier Becky Lukovic and Veso Lukovic. Executive Chef Jason Starnes, who was named a 2016 Best Chef in America by thrillist.com and made Zagat’s list of “9 Under-the-Radar Chefs to Know in Atlanta.” Chef Starnes draws culinary inspiration from his Southern heritage and is strongly ­committed to local sourcing. In keeping with the Kentucky Derby theme, Chef Starnes made use of bourbon throughout the meal. Dinner opened with bourbon-cured salmon and closed with bourbon-infused chocolate-pecan pie. The ladies paraded their finest derby-inspired chapeaux, each receiving a bottle of wine and a rose for their efforts. The winning hat, selected by the service staff, was worn by Rachel Spasser, whose prize was a bottle of Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon 1988. The festive evening concluded with Bailli Herb Spasser ­presenting a well-deserved Chaîne award to Chef Starnes and his team. G

16

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

Roederer Estate Brut N.V. FRIED GREEN TOMATOES Goat Cheese, Red Pepper Coulis Ponzi Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2015 ROASTED GEORGIA QUAIL Duck Vinaigrette, Wilted Chicories, Bourbon Hollandaise Sauce St. Innocent Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 2012 CHOCOLATE-PECAN PIE Bourbon, Chantilly Cream, Salted Caramel Quinta do Noval 10-YearOld Tawny Port


BAILLIAGES

BOSTON

Winter WarmUp at Shepard BY MARSHALL L. BERENSON, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli

WINTER IN BOSTON can be daunting. While many confrères head to warmer climates, the sturdy and stoic stay in town, trudging through ice and snow to attend the chapter’s intimate “Chef’s Table” dinners, which are held at top-flight restaurants. Cabonnay Chef de Cuisine/Chef Rôtisseur Christopher Viaud and Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Marshall Berenson. Rene Becker and Chef Susan Regis—a recipient of the prestigious James Beard “Best Chef: Northeast” award—co-own Shepard restaurant, which received four stars from the Boston Globe. Boston Bailliage members were thrilled to secure the successive nights of February 28 and March 1 at Chef Regis’s table. The wood-infused flavors of her cuisine, combined with her innovative curing and fermentation techniques and passion for unusual ingredients, made for a wondrous gastronomic adventure. Co-Owner Becker’s beverage pairings were bold and adventurous. On the first night, diners were privileged to be joined by Northeast Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition winner Christopher Viaud, who is currently chef de cuisine at Cabonnay. Chef Viaud was inducted into the Chaîne as a chef rôtisseur. The warm atmosphere and convivial spirit among attendees were enough to melt the cold blasts of winter and bring thoughts of the coming spring to light. G

Co-Owner/Chef Susan Regis and Co-Owner Rene Becker.

PHOTOS BY JAN SMITH

CINCINNATI

Italian Spring Dinner BY GRAIG SMITH, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON APRIL 17, Cincinnati Bailliage members returned to Primavista restaurant for their annual spring dinner. Perched on a hill in western Cincinnati, the eatery offers exquisite views of the city. Chevalier Pat Gaito opened Primavista in 1989. Under his leadership, it quickly became popular for its incredible Italian cuisine. Twenty years ago, Chevalier Gaito sold the restaurant to Frank and Joan Lenkerd, who have continued its traditions of elegance and fine food. Co-Owner Frank Lenkerd greeted attendees, who added the bottles of wine they had brought to the growing display of superb offerings intended for sharing. Appetizers of sausage strudel and crostini preceded the three-course meal. The entrée of grilled lamb with brown butter-truffle oil vinaigrette went exceedingly well with several Italian wines, including some fantastic brunellos and barolos. At evening’s end, attendees gave a hearty round of applause to the Lenkerds and to Executive Chef Chris Prince. All agreed that Bailli George Elliott and Vice Chargée de Missions Carmen Parks had done an outstanding job of creating an event that combined fabulous fare, exceptional wines, and the special camaraderie that is a hallmark of the Chaîne. G

Dame Barbara Weinberg, Dame Pamela Reis, and Maître de Table Restaurateur Marj Valvano.

Vice Echanson Hon. Mike Monnin, Katie Simms, and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Bethanie Butcher.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

17


BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY SUE FLISCHEL

CINCINNATI

A “Wok” into Kentucky BY GRAIG SMITH, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON THE BLUSTERY Monday evening of March 13, Cincinnati Bailliage members made their way to Oriental Wok, located across the Ohio River in Lakeside Park, Kentucky. Chevalier James Hemesath and Attendees brought exceptional wines to Bailli George Elliott, Vice Chargé de Presse Graig Smith, and Chevalier Pat Gaito. Corinne McNally. complement Owner/Chef Mike Wong’s delicious cuisine. Hard work and perseverance characterize his impressive success story. In 1972, he and his family came to the United States from Hong Kong with the dream of a better life. He was taught to cook at a Chinese restaurant in Cincinnati and eventually mastered the art of Chinese cuisine. In 1977, he opened the first Chinese restaurant in northern Kentucky. For the past forty years, Chef Wong’s establishment has flourished with the help of his dedicated family, magnetic personality, and outstanding fare. Attendees were greeted by members of the Wong family and escorted into a room with ornate Asian furnishings. The subsequent feast featured such delicacies as rainbow beef filet tips and shrimp with ginger-garlic choy sum. At evening’s end, diners thanked Vice Chargée de Missions Carmen Parks for finding this sensational culinary landmark and heartily applauded Chef Wong, his family, and his staff. G Michael Lancor, Dame Pamela Olscamp, and Chevalier John Mocker.

COLONIAL NEW ENGLAND

Great Pairings

Gracie’s Fine Dining April 29, 2017

BY CAROLE DORRIS, Vice Chargée de Presse

GEORGES BANK SEA SCALLOPS Chestnut Velouté, Farro, Parsnip, Grape Must, Pancetta

ON APRIL 29, the Colonial New England Bailliage Chevalier Ron Becker, Jayne Schmitz, Chevalier Nat Brown, Jr., Chevalier Steve Schmitz, and Bailli hosted the Rhode Island Gerald Kraft. Chapter at Gracie’s Fine Dining, a delightful venue located in Providence, Rhode Island. In 2017, for the sixth consecutive year, Gracie’s received the AAA FourDiamond rating. The previous year, Executive Chef Matthew Varga was named “Chef of the Year” by the Rhode Island Hospitality Association. One glance at the menu made it clear that Chef Varga, Wine Educator Alan Freudeman, and Colonial New England Dame de la Chaîne Johanna Becker, who served as event host, had done a great deal of focused tasting to produce this meal. A great chef will pair ingredients in unusual ways to create exquisite, tasty, innovative dishes. Chef Varga combined scallops with chestnut velouté and grape must to achieve the perfect balance of sweetness, ­tanginess, and creaminess. The bruléed lavender marshmallow for dessert was a new experience for this author. It tasted the way lavender smells and was sensational! While all aspects of the evening were superb, the bringing together of the two chapters—resulting in the forging of new friendships among confrères—was the best pairing of all. G

18

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

Sono Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2014 POTATO GNOCCHI Braised Pork Shank, Sweet Potato, Brussels Sprouts, Pine Nuts, Provolone Giovanni Rosso Donna Margherita Barbera d’Alba 2014 CRESCENT FARMS DUCK BREAST Polenta, Blue Cheese, Fig Mostarda Paul Jaboulet Aîné les Jalets Crozes-Hermitage 2013 BUTTERSCOTCH POT DE CRÈME Lavender Marshmallow, Sesame Nib Nougatine, Dark Chocolate Ice Cream Ramos Pinto Late Bottled Vintage Port 2011


BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY ELLEN ROSENBERG

DELAWARE VALLEY SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Donelan Wines at Le Chéri BY KATHLEEN BOYLE, Vice Chargée de Presse

JOE DONELAN—FOUNDER of the boutique, Sonoma-based Donelan Family Winery—and his son Tripp Donelan shared six of their prized Vice Chargée de Presse Kathleen Boyle and Bailli Hon. Brian Thorne, Bailli Matt Karstetter, and Winemaker wines with Delaware Valley Mondiale members Officier Don Robbins. Tripp Donelan. at Le Chéri on February 26. Husband-and-wife team Chef Pierre Calmels and Charlotte Calmels own Le Chéri. Chef Pierre created a special menu to match the Donelan wines. Following the reception, Joe Donelan shared a bit of personal history with the group. His introduction to the wine world was sharing wines with family and friends in Europe; this became a passion that led him to shift his focus to winemaking as a profession. Nancie Chardonnay 2013, a crisp wine named for Joe’s mother, escorted the first dinner course of ahi tuna tartare. Diners raved about Tripp’s Block Pinot Noir 2013; it was the first time that this wine had been served at any event! It tasted like an Old World offering, despite having been produced on the ridgetops of Mendocino. Boeuf bourguignon was accompanied by Obsidian Vineyard Syrah 2014 and Richards Family Syrah 2013. The stimulating evening ended on a high note, as the group enjoyed Walker Vine Hill Syrah 2013, with its chocolate and blueberry flavors. G

DELAWARE VALLEY

Spring Awakening at Wister BY KATHLEEN BOYLE, Vice Chargée de Presse

DELAWARE VALLEY BAILLIAGE members gathered at Wister BYOB in Old City Philadelphia on May 7 to explore Owner/ Chef Benjamin Moore’s fresh spring offerings. A graduate of the French Culinary Institute, Chef Moore previously worked at ABC Kitchen and the legendary Le Bec-Fin. He also served as sous-chef for the Lacroix Restaurant’s popular, lavOfficier Commandeur Bill Goldman, Bailli Matt Karstetter, Owner/Chef Benjamin Moore, Officier Don Robbins, and Vice Chargée de ish Sunday brunch. In fact, Chef Moore Presse Kathleen Boyle. had previously prepared a brunch for the Delaware Valley Bailliage at this Rittenhouse Hotel culinary landmark. Innovative combinations on his rotating menu enable Chef Moore to offer diners new experiences frequently. He is committed to creating bold flavors and incorporating the best items from local sources. Diners can explore an array of flavors in smaller first courses, which awaken their palates for subsequent taste sensations. The meal enjoyed by the Delaware Valley Chapter reflected Chef Moore’s philosophy of juxtaposing the essences and textures of seasonal harvests. Attendees felt relaxed and receptive in the industrial-styled restaurant. Chocolate pot de crème with cherries and foie gras Chantilly was the perfect way to close the delightful and adventurous spring tasting. G

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

19


BAILLIAGES

DES MOINES

French Chefs Dinner at ICI BY SANDY CUTTER, Vice Chargée de Presse

DECEMBER IN NEW York? April in Paris? Actually, it was January in Iowa! The French chefs had returned, and excitement was brewing. In 1985, Des Moines signed a sister-city agreement with St.-Étienne, France. The following year, two chefs from the l’Association des Cuisiniers de la Loire (the chef’s association of the St.-Étienne area) came to the Iowa Chef Jean-Christophe Martin, Dame Maura Nelson, Chef Yannick Jaguenaud, and Bailli Culinary Institute at Des Moines Area Community College to do cooking Jim Cutter. demonstrations for students. A tradition began, and each year since 1986, ICI students have had the privilege of learning from the visiting French chefs. Top students may be awarded trips to France for further training under the St.-Étienne chefs. On January 26, Chefs Yannick Jaguenaud and Jean-Christophe Martin helped ICI students execute a dinner for Des Moines Bailliage members. Menu highlights included foie gras, lobster-scallop brochette, and pastry-wrapped filet mignon. Annually for the past five years, the Des Moines Bailliage has awarded a Chaîne scholarship to a deserving ICI student. The $1,000 local award is matched at the national level, creating a $2,000 award. Jonny Cheek, the 2016-2017 winner of this scholarship, was among the lucky ICI students learning from Chefs Jaguenaud and Martin. G Chevalier Jim Dow and Susan Dow.

DES MOINES

Celebrating New and Current Members BY SANDY CUTTER, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE DES MOINES Bailliage’s black-tie induction dinner on April 2 was held at the Glen Oaks Country Club, which was just beginning to show signs of spring. Honored guest Bailli Provincial Maître Rôtisseur Adam Gillaspey, Maître Rôtisseur Karla Boetel, Maître Rôtisseur Rolando Molina, Chef Renee Wilmeth gave a brief history of the Chaîne and explained Rôtisseur Anthony Nace, and Chef Rôtisseur Terry Boston. the “Rules of the Table.” Everyone chuckled when she noted that while speeches are not permitted, there are often “remarks” and that eating warm food as soon as it is served is an important Chaîne rule! Several new members were inducted, and Christina Taylor was elevated to vice echanson. Bailli Jim Cutter received his commandeur pin for twenty years of Chaîne membership. Bailli Provincial Wilmeth also recognized Chef Rôtisseur Anthony Nace, who represented the Des Moines Bailliage in the Midwest Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition, where he took first place Maître de Table Restaurateur Robert Anderson, Dame Nancy Landess, Jane Sturgeon, and Chevalier Vice Echanson Christina Taylor and and advanced to the national competition in Washington, D.C. Bob Sturgeon. Chevalier Rob Taylor. The group then adjourned to the dining room for the delicious repast prepared by Executive Chef Chris Caes. The culinary highlights included steak tartare with a brilliant yellow quail egg, a salmon and halibut duo, roasted venison, and ­pistachio mousse with chocolate biscuits. G

20

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017


BAILLIAGES

DES MOINES SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Bourbon Tasting with the Taylors BY JIM CUTTER, Bailli

AN EXCITED GROUP of Des Moines Mondiale members gathered for a whiskey and bourbon tasting at the home of Dame de la Chaîne Christine Taylor and Chevalier Rob Taylor on November 6, 2016. Attendees were taken back to the classroom with a quiz on the Chevalier Rob Taylor and Dame differences between whiskey and bourbon. While they knew the Christine Taylor. general differences between the two, the Taylors had to fill in the particulars: bourbon is produced in the United States, which makes it “uniquely American.” It must be made from at least 51% corn; aged in new, charred oak barrels; and distilled to no more than 80% alcohol. There were flights from three prominent distillers: Blanton’s, Bulleit, and I.W. Harper. The Taylors provided a beautiful charcuterie platter to accompany the spirits. In order to experience the differences, attendees tasted Scotch and Irish whiskeys alongside the bourbons. The consensus was that bourbon has unique qualities, and Americans should be proud to call it their own. The afternoon concluded with several bourbon cocktails that had attendees raving long after this enjoyable, educational experience was over. G

PHOTOS BY NANCY MANLOVE AND URS SCHMID

GALVESTON

Food & Wine Festival Dinner BY URS E. SCHMID, Chevalier

THE ANNUAL GALVESTON Island Food & Wine Festival is the toast of the town, offering live music, culinary demonstrations, artisan exhibits, and other attractions. Each year, on the first day of the festival, the Galveston Bailliage has Bailli Jan Pozzi, Professionnel du Vin Kenneth Edwards, the pleasure of selecting a Grand Champion wine from the Jr., Dame Suzanne Edwards, Maître Rôtisseur Ewart Jones, top six wine finalists chosen from a large number of entries. Argentier National Hon. Jim Pozzi, and Dame Nancy Forshey. At the ANICO building on April 20, members tasted and rated the six wines. Overseeing the festivities were Bailli Jan Pozzi and Executive Chef/Vice Conseiller Culinaire Urs Schmid, who prepared the delicious dinner. Argentier National Honoraire Jim Pozzi and Vice Echanson Richard Quintanilla chose exceptional wines from the Pacific Northwest, Argentina, and Germany to complement the meal. Also during the evening, Maître Rôtisseur Ewart Jones, Dame de la Chaîne Suzanne Edwards, and Professionnel du Vin Kenneth Edwards, Jr. were inducted, and Dame de la Chaîne Nancy Forshey received her commandeur pin. Chef Schmid and Elizabeth Matthews of Yaga’s Entertainment introduced the culinary and service teams, who were greeted with applause. This is always one of the year’s best events, thanks to the wonderful staff and coordinators who orchestrate these delightful evenings. G

ANICO April 20, 2017 SEARED DIVER SCALLOP Cyprus Sauvignon Blanc 2012 LONG ISLAND DUCK BREAST Row 503 Cellars Pinot Noir 2014 PISTACHIO-CRUSTED COLORADO RACK OF LAMB Altos las Hormigas Altamira Malbec PEAR-WALNUT SALAD VANILLA ICE CREAM-FILLED ORANGE CRÊPES Wolf Scheurebe Eiswein 2012

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

21


BAILLIAGES

GARDEN STATE

Bastille Day Celebration at the Farmhouse BY VICTOR S. SLOAN, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON JULY 9, the Garden State Bailliage celebrated Bastille Day at the Farmhouse at the Grand Colonial. A slideshow created by Vice Chargé de Missions Joe Zawistowski and Vice Chargé de Presse Victor Sloan with images of the French Revolution and modern Bastille Day celebrations underscored the event’s theme. Established in 1685, the Farmhouse is set on ten acres in the hills of Hunterdon County. The weather was perfect for an outdoor recepEchanson Provincial/Bailli George Staikos and Bailli Hon. Claude Dufresne. tion at which confrères strolled amid the flower and herb gardens. Culinary Institute of America-trained Executive Chef Christine Ayers came to the Farmhouse after stints at Restaurant Daniel and the Ryland Inn, among other fine-dining establishments. She and Echanson Provincial/Bailli George Staikos collaborated on choosing the evening’s all-French wines to complement the French menu. After dinner, Chef Ayers fielded questions from attendees, who learned that many of the herbs and vegetables they had just enjoyed had come from the Farmhouse’s gardens. Noting the chef’s love of fine wine, Echanson Provincial/Bailli Staikos presented her with a Chaîne decanter. In a similar gesture of appreciation, he gifted Banquet Manager Kevin McMullen with a Chaîne wine tote. G

GARDEN STATE

Early Spring Gifts BY VICTOR S. SLOAN, Vice Chargé de Presse

COLD, RAINY WEATHER did not stop the Garden State Bailliage from heralding spring on March 26 at Matt’s Red Rooster Grill in Flemington, New Jersey. Owner/Executive Chef Matt McPherson worked at a number of renowned finedining establishments before coming home to Flemington to open his own restaurant. The decision to use grilling as his signature technique came after he purchased a wood-fired oven. Benjie Lavigne, Echanson Provincial George Staikos, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Mark Altom, and Mary The Culinary Institute of America graduate stays true to his Jo Altom. Jersey roots by using local ingredients. He is also a major supporter of the local farmers’ market. All of the appetizers and three of the savory courses featured grilled items. The cheeses came from nearby Bobolink Farm. Chef McPherson graciously answered diners’ questions about his menu. The group was interested to learn that many of the herbs were grown onsite. Before heading back into the rain, confrères thanked outgoing Bailli Claude Dufresne for his many years of service to the Garden State Bailliage. They welcomed the incoming bailli, Echanson Provincial George Staikos, with a symbolic “passing of the bottle” in front of the Chaîne flag. G

Suzanne Dufresne and Angelica Staikos.

22

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017


BAILLIAGES

GARDEN STATE

“That’s All, Folks!” BY VICTOR S. SLOAN, Vice Chargé de Presse

OUTGOING GARDEN STATE Bailli Claude Dufresne planned his farewell dinner for May 7 at one of his chapter’s favorite restaurants—the Brothers Moon. Culinary Institute of America-trained Co-Owner/Executive Chef Will Mooney worked at such acclaimed venues as the Hotel Pierre and the Frog and the Peach before founding the Brothers Moon in Hopewell, New Bailli Provincial Hon./Chancelier Délégué, Académie de Gastronomie Brillat-Savarin Jersey, in 2000. Georges Muller, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Hon. Ivan Jacobs, and Echanson Provincial George Staikos. Chef Mooney is known for his love of mushrooms. (In fact, he once prepared a Chaîne dinner in which every course—even dessert—featured mushrooms.) Since Bailli Dufresne loves lamb, the menu showcased both foods. Chef Mooney once again delighted diners with his signature dish “Shiitake on a Shingle”—his version of creamed chipped beef on toast. Confrères unearthed treasures from their cellars to honor Bailli Dufresne. Among the many special selections were Giacomo Borgogno Barolo 1998, Château Smith Haut Lafitte 2005, and Domaine Pinnacle Réserve Ice Cider 2004 from Quebec. Following dinner, bailliage officers presented a signed bottle of Quintessa to Bailli Dufresne as a token of the chapter’s esteem and thanks. A photo was then taken of the six current and former baillis who were in attendance. G

Bailli Hon. Celia D’Arienzo and Bailli Claude Dufresne.

GARDEN STATE SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Noble Greatness x 5 BY VICTOR S. SLOAN, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON JULY 24, 2016, Garden State Mondiale members gathered at the Farmhouse at the Grand Colonial for an event aptly titled “Noble Greatness x 5.” Each dinner course was paired with an exemplar of one of the five noble grapes: sauvignon blanc, riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir, and cabernet sauvignon. Organized by Echanson Provincial George Staikos, the event was available to only twenty-four lucky attendees. The Farmhouse, whose kitchen is helmed by Executive Chef Christine Ayers, is known for its innovative cuisine and use of local items. A standout pairing was spicy Korean-style meatballs with apricot-chili glaze, set off by Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir 2012. The combination of the gojuchang (Korean chili paste that seems to be “having a moment”), the sweetness of the glaze, and the fruit of the pinot was beyond outstanding. Of course, no Mondiale dinner would be complete without singing. Several members entertained the group with songs. In addition, Chevalier David Schulman recited a poem in tribute to the late Leonard Nimoy, the first line of which was, “These are the dinners of the Garden State Bailliage.” G

Vice Chancelier-Argentier Hon. Ivan Jacobs.

Banquet Manager Kevin McMullen, Echanson Provincial George Staikos, Executive Chef Christine Ayers, and Bailli Claude Dufresne.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

23


BAILLIAGES

GRAND BAHAMA

Sawubona, Suid Afrika BY DEL FOXTON, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON FEBRUARY 22, at Flying Fish restaurant, Grand Bahama Bailliage members happily entertained the fantasy that they had traveled to South Africa to experience its unique cuisine. South African cuisine is a wonderful merging of the cooking styles of the indigenous Sotho- and Nguni-speaking people; the Dutch, German, French, Italian, Greek, and British colonists; and their Indonesian-Asian servants. Sawubona was the warm greeting given by Chevalier Rory Paton-Ash, a native of South Africa. At the reception, attendees sampled appetizers made from biltong—dried jerky that is a popular South African snack. Chevalier Hannes Babak, Vice Chargée de Missions Christine Rich, Vice Chargée de Presse The menu featured several dishes that were handed down through the Del Foxton, and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Barry Taylor. generations, including springbok, a delicious game meat (and the name of South Africa’s national rugby team), and kingklip, a popular eating fish whose name derives from an old Dutch word that means “king of the rock fishes.” At evening’s end, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Barry Taylor led the group in giving a hearty round of applause and a big dankie (pronounced “dunky”) to husband-andwife co-owners Chef Tim Tibbitts and Sommelier Rebecca Tibbitts and their team for this delightful culinary excurChevalier Manuel Ruiz and Deirdre Goddard and Chevalier Shelagh Paton-Ash and sion to South Africa. G Paula Cabrera. Ted Goddard. Chevalier Rory Paton-Ash.

PHOTOS BY CLARENCE GREEN

GRAND BAHAMA

Ciao, Toscana BY DEL FOXTON, Vice Chargée de Presse

TUSCANY IS A food lover’s dream. On April 19, without leaving their tropical island, Grand Bahama Bailliage members had the opportunity to indulge in some of the delicacies that make Tuscany famous for its cuisine worldwide. The event was held at Flying Fish restaurant. Working with Chevalier Hannes Babak and Maître Hôtelier Kor Dormans, Co-Owner/ Chef Tim Tibbitts and his team prepared a five-course meal featuring classic Tuscan dishes. The highlights included panzanella, a cold bread salad topped with olive oil (of course!); pasta with rabbit ragù; and grilled beef with cannellini beans. Tuscans are often called mangiafagioli (bean eaters) as beans are included in most meals. Almond biscotti, served with Antinori Vin Santo Santa Cristina 2009, completed the meal. Tuscany is also one of Italy’s renowned wine regions; its reputation is founded on such exquisite wines as Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Co-Owner/Sommelier Rebecca Tibbitts expertly chose the perfect wine to accompany each dish, ensuring the perfection of the culinary journey to Tuscany. Before saying ciao to Tuscany, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Barry Taylor introduced and thanked the Flying Fish team on behalf of ­appreciative diners. G

24

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Ellen Decter, Patrick Alias, and Dame Brigitte Alias.

Chevalier Vivian Rich, Chevalier Dick Raper, and Chevalier Hannes Babak.


BAILLIAGES

HARTFORD

Al Fresco Dinner at Max Fish BY JENNIFER GARDNER DUNN, Vice Chancelier-Argentier, AND ROBERT NICHOLSON, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique

NOTHING SAYS SUMMER like seafood with zingy white wines and prosecco-laced cocktails served outdoors. This is exactly how the Hartford Bailliage welcomed summer at Max Fish on June 11. Confrères were familiar with the restaurant’s excellent cuisine and service under the leadership of Managing Partner Brian Chevalier Bill Brahm, Bailli Gary Dunn, and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jennifer Gardner Dunn. Costa. They were pleased to savor another meal prepared by Chef Matthew Burrill, this time on the breezy patio. Two cocktails were created especially for the event. The Dancing Scotsman was a lively concoction of Glenlivet Scotch, lemon, honey, and prosecco. With dessert, diners sipped a brilliant mix of Diplomático rum, Don Q rum, amontillado sherry, Bénédictine, and Grind Espresso Liqueur. The uncommon profiles of the white wines and fish dishes made for a discernible diversion from winter meals, and the intersection of wines and cocktails challenged attendees’ perceptions of seafood pairings. The final wine demonstrated how an aged white may elevate a dish. Domaine de la Préceptorie de Centernach Roussillon 2006 dared the group to drink outside its comfort zone. Drinking a rare, aged wine of superior pedigree produced by a young poet/philosopher/winemaker felt like embarking on a high-seas adventure close to home. G

HARTFORD

A Special New Member Costa del Sol

BY JENNIFER GARDNER DUNN, Vice Chancelier-Argentier

HARTFORD’S COSTA DEL Sol restaurant has been delighting lovers of Iberian Peninsula cuisine for more than thirty years. On October 23, 2016, the Feijoo family, led by José “Pepe” Feijoo, treated Hartford Bailliage members to an evening of innovative Spanish food delivered with gracious hospitality. The family’s origins are in Galicia, so several of the dishes had a Galician touch. The culinary highlight was grilled Ibérico pork secreto­—a cut of uncured pork that is nearly impossible to obtain. However, the human highlight of the evening was the induction of José Feijoo into the Chaîne. The pride he took in becoming a Hartford maître rôtisseur was evident in his jubilance. For their part, Hartford confrères were impressed by and appreciative of the Feijoo family’s exacting professionalism and contagious enthusiasm. Costa del Sol’s entryway is a kind of shrine to the Chaîne, displaying commemorative plates, engraved decanters, and an issue of Gastronome magazine under glass. Now the Feijoo family can add the official maître rôtisseur plaque as a symbol of the Chaîne’s reciprocal esteem for them and their excellence. G

October 23, 2016 GRILLED SCALLOP Strawberry Risotto, Mango Relish Pazo de Galegos Albariño Rias Baixas 2015 HALIBUT-SHRIMP NAPOLEON Rafael Palacios As Sortes Val do Bibei Godello 2012 GRILLED IBÉRICO PORK SECRETO Apple Chutney, Potato-Pumpkin Hash

Barbara Coppa and Chevalier Mark Coppa.

Descendientes de Jose Palacios Petalos Bierzo 2013 BLOOD SAUSAGE-STUFFED QUAIL Chestnut Demi-Glace Emilio Moro Malleolus Ribera del Duero 2011 TETILLA TIRAMISU Maria Cookies Lustau Solera Reserva Moscatel Superior Emilin N.V.

Sarah Warner and Chevalier Michael Ciscar.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

25


BAILLIAGES

HARTFORD SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Vertical Bordeaux Tasting BY JENNIFER GARDNER DUNN, Vice Chancelier-Argentier

THE SUMMER EVENING of July 29, 2016 could not have been lovelier for the Hartford Mondiale’s vertical tasting of exceptional bordeaux at the home of Bailli Gary Dunn and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jennifer Gardner Dunn. Attendees congregated on the stone terrace, upon which pots of vibrant flowers overflowed amid benches, tables, and fountains. A softly burning fire sealed the sense of magic. After partaking of a buffet of garden-fresh offerings in the conservatory, members reconvened for the guided presentation of Château d’Armailhac—the Pauillac estate owned by neighboring Mouton Chevalier Michael Ciscar, Sarah Ciscar, and Dame Edesa Ciscar. Rothschild. Vintages from 1996, 2000, 2005, and 2010 were tasted and discussed. Bailli Dunn, who is a wine merchant and a bordeaux expert, provided in-depth ­commentary. Periodic forays indoors to the rows of bordeaux lined up on the bar allowed attendees to replenish their glasses with other excellent quaffs, including Château Graville-Lacoste Blanc 2015, Château Simon 2010 from the Graves region of Bordeaux, and Domaine J. Laurens Blanquette de Limoux. At the end of the evening, those reluctant to leave this idyllic vinous fête enjoyed cigars around the firepit. G

PHOTOS BY ERIN DAY AND BETSY WALLIS

INDIANAPOLIS

Spring Induction Dinner at Marrow BY ERIN DAY, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE INDIANAPOLIS BAILLIAGE held its spring induction dinner on April 30 at Marrow restaurant, located in the city’s bustling Fountain Square neighborhood. Owner/Chef John Adams describes his fare as “global soul food” as he interprets diverse cuisines from around the world. Following the reception, Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth inducted Chevaliers Andrew Holladay, Steven Krusie, Sanjay Mishra, and Salil Benegal and Dame de la Chaîne Kathy Krusie. A bit of whimsy was injected into the ceremony as the new members were welcomed with the touch of a light saber. Bailli Provincial Wilmeth then elevated Bailli Greg Wallis, who took the reins from beloved Bailli Honoraire Jen Priddy. Also elevated were Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Dennis Trinkle and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jan Webber. The meal was one of the group’s favorites in recent memory. Many diners wondered how Chef Adams prepared the salmon, which seemed to melt in the mouth. The wines, which hailed from France, Italy, and the United States, were perfectly paired with the courses. It was a lively evening and a perfect way to introduce new members to the camaraderie that characterizes the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. G

26

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

Raygan Swann, Dame Divya Narayanan, and Bailli Hon. Jen Priddy.

Chevalier Jaemy Hwang and Chevalier Scott Larrimer.


BAILLIAGES

INDIANAPOLIS

Fall Meal at the Farm BY ERIN DAY, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON THE CRISP, beautiful evening of September 11, 2016, Indianapolis Bailliage members welcomed autumn at the Loft Restaurant at Traders Point Creamery. Traders Point is known for its wonderful dairy products. The outdoor reception enabled attendees to glimpse the cattle across the fields; confrères sipped bubbly and socialized while the grass-fed cows enjoyed their own ­dinner. Attendees were also excited to sample the culinary creations of the restaurant’s new chef, Toby Moreno, formerly of Plow & Anchor in downtown Indianapolis. Chef Moreno did a wonderful job of blending late-harvest produce items with some of the creamery’s award-winning cheeses. The group’s favorite course was the grilled duck breast, which was so tender and delicious that several diners continued to rave about it through dessert. The transition from summer to fall flavors was evident in the accompaniments of late-summer succotash and persimmon jus. The wines, which attendees brought to share from their personal cellars, made for a varied and fabulous array. This casual evening on the farm still offered all of the elegance and camaraderie found at more formal Chaîne events. G

Bailli Jen Priddy, Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Hon. Laura Lashmet, and Chevalier Keith Trinkle.

Dame Kara Hwang, Chevalier Scott Larrimer, and Chevalier Jaemy Hwang.

KANSAS CITY

April in the Paris of the Plains BY ROD RICHARDSON, Vice Chargé de Presse

KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI is known as the “Paris of the Plains” primarily for its beautiful fountains. It was thus fitting that the Kansas City Bailliage celebrated “April in Paris” on April 2 at the city’s premier French restaurant Le Fou Frog. Manager Barbara Rafael with servers Kathleen Bryant, Steven Walker, Samuel Fifield, and Jill McKeown. Located in Kansas City’s historic River Market community, Le Fou Frog has been described by a Zagat reviewer as “a venue that provides marvelous dishes in an atmosphere so Parisian you expect Edith Piaf to jump onto a table and begin a chanson.” Following the reception, confrères were treated to a parade of classic French dishes prepared by Owner/Chef Mano Rafael and served by the attentive waitstaff. All of the courses were paired with superb wines. The historical significance of the River Market area is that it is where French river traders brought the first French cuisine to the area more than two hundred years ago. This dining experience was so authentic that attendees did not need to stretch their imaginations to feel as though they had spent the evening in Paris. Vive la Chaîne! G Bailli Mike Foster.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

27


BAILLIAGES

KANSAS CITY

American Cuisine at the Crossroads BY ROD RICHARDSON, Vice Chargé de Presse

BAILLI MIKE FOSTER and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Jesse Little hosted a dinner for the Kansas City Bailliage on February 19 at Tannin Wine Bar & Kitchen in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District. This burgeoning art, food, and entertainment mecca is rapidly attracting locals and visitors alike. Tannin’s exposed brick walls, rustic wood accents, and art-centered décor offered the perfect antidote to the cold winter evening. The restaurant has an impressive wine cellar, and members have enjoyed Mondiale events there in the past. Elegant table decorations by Vice Chancelier-Argentier Elena WahbehFoster contributed to the cozy ambiance. Kansas City confrères always admire and appreciate Vice Chancelier-Argentier Wahbeh-Foster’s talented orchestration of Chaîne and Mondiale events, and this evening was no different. Bailli Mike Foster and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Jesse Little. The combination of contemporary American cuisine paired with superb wines from Spain, Austria, France, Portugal, and California made for a delectable dining experience. The gourmet menu featured locally sourced chicken, fish, and pork preparations and was capped by a medley of pungent cheeses. The evening was declared a great success by all who attended. Vive la Chaîne! G

KANSAS CITY

Autumn at Jasper’s BY MICHAEL D. FOSTER, Bailli

THE KANSAS CITY Bailliage held its fall dinner at Jasper’s Italian Restaurant on November 3, 2016. Vice Conseiller Culinaire Jasper Mirabile, Jr. is an awardwinning chef and the author of several cookbooks. In the glassed-in private dining room, which offered lovely views of a creek and trail, Bailli Michael Foster led attendees in greeting one of the chapter’s favorite chefs. The group was eager to enjoy the special menu he had prepared for them. Chef Mirabile described the courses as they were being served. The two favorite savory offerings were arrosto di pollo and tortellacci with Tuscan pork ragù. A delicious Sicilian cannoli tort closed the meal. The lineup of stellar wines included a Sicilian Arancio Grillo and a Tommasi Valpolicella Ripasso. An applecello cordial and a Saracco Moscato D’Asti completed the libations. This superb chef’s latest book contains a section titled “On the Cannoli Trail.” The evening’s culinary trail had been a delicious one, and Kansas City confrères look forward to the next exciting dining experience at Jasper’s Italian Restaurant. G 28

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

Chevalier Luke Dlabal, Dame Chrystal Dlabal, Jill Hartman, and Vice Echanson John Hartman.

Chevalier Vince McInerney and Wendy Phillips.

Officier Commandeur Ruth Wendel and Vice Chargée de Missions Hon. Joyce Weiblen.


BAILLIAGES

KANSAS CITY SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Lofty Tastings BY ROD RICHARDSON, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON MAY 7, Vice Echanson Honoraire Brian Williams hosted Kansas City Mondiale members at his exquisite loft home. This vantage point above the city was the ideal spot for viewing the beautiful spring sunset. Attendees were impressed not only by their host’s two extensive wine cellars but by his masterful knowledge of their contents. Vice Echanson Honoraire Williams and Vice Echanson John Hartman provided expert commentary on the wines they had selected for the tasting. Chef Sean Kirby, a private catering chef, prepared delicious appetizers to accompany the wines. First up was a vertical flight of Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Allen Vineyard from the 1992, 1994, and 1995 vintages. The group then tasted a pair of 2009 pinot noirs from Burt Williams’s and Ed Selyem’s daughters’ vineyards, Brogen Cellars and WesMar, respectively. Following was a 2005 horizontal tasting of Turley zinfandels from Vineyard 101, Tofanelli, and Atlas Peak and a petite syrah from estate fruit. The tasting concluded with Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Port 2011. Attendees enjoyed every moment of this rare opportunity to sample elegant wines from the extraordinary cellars of Vice Echanson Honoraire Williams. G

Dame Norma Hoagland, Chevalier Joe Hoagland, and Vice Chargée de Missions Susann Riffe.

Chef Sean Kirby.

LA GRANDE CAVE DU NEW JERSEY

Nothing Common about It

Common Lot February 26, 2017 SALMON CONFIT Crispy Quinoa, Mustard, Sorrel-Buttermilk Sauce

BY WENDY MERKIN PILLER, Vice Chargée de Presse Co-Owner/Chef Ehren Ryan, Co-Owner/Manager Nadine Ryan, and Bailli John Foy.

NEW YORK TIMES food reviewer Fran Schumer wrote that Chef Ehren Ryan “is among the most talented cooks in [New Jersey].” Chef Ryan worked his way up from dishwasher to chef at two Michelin-starred restaurants in London before opening Common Lot restaurant with his wife, Nadine Ryan. A certified European cheese sommelier, Nadine Ryan serves as Common Lot’s manager. On the restaurant’s website, the Ryans describe their approach as “Common: something shared, communal, a tract of land for everyone…Lot: a crowd of people, abundance, plentiful...” Eager to dine at this well-appointed, increasingly popular restaurant, La Grande Cave du New Jersey Bailliage members got their wish on February 26. They were not disappointed; the cuisine and ambiance were as spectacular as expected. Following dinner in the relaxed downstairs room, they explored the upstairs library, which holds Chef Ryan’s treasured cookbook collection. The seasonally sought flavors, farm-to-table ingredients, and unique blend of seasonings made dining at Common Lot a wonderful experience and a perfect opportunity to unearth and enjoy wines from the chapter’s stellar wine cellar. G

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Montagny Premier Cru 2014 CHEESE GRITS Bacon Jam, Pickled Mushrooms Château Petit-Village Pomerol 2000 BRAISED BEEF CHEEK Celery Root Fondant, Celery Root Purée Château Pichon Lalande Pauillac Reserve de la Comtesse 2003 CRANBERRY TART Brown Butter Cream Piper-Heidsieck Demi-Sec Cuvée Sublime Champagne N.V.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

29


BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY JANIE MATHIS

LACS ET DES BOIS SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Celebrating the Women of Wine BY TERRY MATHIS, Vice Echanson

THE LOVE OF a woman knows no bounds. Imagine that love being channeled into grapes that are made into wine! On May 14, 2016, Lacs et des Bois Mondiale members sampled some of these remarkable products at a “Women Winemakers” dinner at the home of Bailli Cheryl Kenny and Officier Steve Kenny. The food was prepared by Executive Chef Abhijeet Junnarkar—aka Chef AJ— of Red Dot Cuisine, while Vice Echanson Terry Mathis selected the winemakers and wines. The first wine was Domaine Carneros Brut 2011 by Eileen Crane—the most experienced sparkling-wine producer in the United States. Bouillabaisse was served with Fiddlehead Sauvignon Blanc 2012; Kathy Joseph is proprietor, winemaker, and, in her own words, “grape herder and head fiddle” at Fiddlehead Wines. The next two courses were accompanied by Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir 2013 and Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 2010, created by fourth-generation Winemaker Véronique BossDrouhin and third-generation Winemaker Laurence Feraud, respectively. The love and passion that each of these female winemakers put into their wines was abundantly evident. At evening’s end, attendees thanked the Kennys for hosting the event and Chef AJ for his delightful cuisine. G

Bailli Cheryl Kenny, staff, Executive Chef Abhijeet Junnarkar, staff, and Vice Echanson Terry Mathis.

Houston Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Hélène Burris, Vice Chargée de Missions Hon. Margaret Daigle, Barbie Hardy, Dame Karen Maybee, and Dame Kim Angle.

LACS ET DES BOIS

World Chaîne Day at Papa Amadeus BY DAVID GILLEY, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique

ON APRIL 22, Lacs et des Bois Bailliage members celebrated World Chaîne Day at Papa Amadeus, a small but excellent Italian restaurant. Owner/General Manager Arturo Huerta greeted everyone warmly as they arrived. For this less formal event, confrères ordered off the menu and brought bottles of wine to share with their tablemates. In dining at Papa Amadeus, confrères exemplified a core value of the Chaîne—to support small, up-and-coming establishments. And, as a venue choice, Papa Amadeus fits the bill for any World Chaîne Day celebration. Of Italian heritage, Owner/General Manager Huerta grew up in Argentina. “Papa Amadeus” was what he called his grandfather, a baker, who had always wanted to own his own restaurant. With the help of restaurateur Rogelio Aguilar, Owner/General Manager Huerta was able to realize that dream. The partners hired Ukrainian Chef Maksym Oliynik, who trained in France and honed his skills in New York, to helm their kitchen. So, Papa Amadeus is truly an international endeavor. The food was excellent, the wines superb. However, as always, the best part of the evening was the company of fellow Chaîne members. G

Vice Chancelier-Argentier Les Jones, Echanson National Charles Bennett, and Officier Steve Kenny.

Houston Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Hélène Burris, Chevalier Richard Leofsky, Dame Kay Dunn, Chevalier David Hayden, and Suzanne Hayden.

30

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017


BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY JOHNSEYE PHOTOGRAPHY

LAKE SHORE

Oriole—A Hidden Gem BY SUZANNE READE, Vice Chargée de Presse

AFTER ENTERING AN old commercial building and passing through a freight elevator, Lake Shore Bailliage members received a warm welcome from the team at Oriole restaurant on February 2. No menus were provided as each dish was intended Owner/Executive Chef Noah Sandoval (center) and staff. to surprise. Instead of traditional caviar at the reception, Owner/ Executive Chef Noah Sandoval created a gelato mousse-textured combination of egg yolks and caviar, which was served atop a scallop. In another course, Chef Sandoval mixed Asian flavors into whipped cream, adding fish sauce, crab, lemongrass, ginger, lime, and coconut milk. Aged beef was served with a hollandaise sauce made with beef fat and charred oysters, with kumquats to balance the richness. Talented Pastry Chef Genie Kwon prepared updated versions of dessert classics. “Oriole was a great dining experience, with exciting creations that were beautifully executed,” noted Bailli Deborah Long, who presented Chef Sandoval with a commemorative Chaîne plate. Food & Wine magazine included Chef Sandoval on its list of the nation’s top new chefs. For Lake Shore confrères, these and other accolades are hardly surprising given the quality of Vice Chancelier-Argentier Kary King and Bailli Deborah Long. the meal they enjoyed at Oriole. G

MAUI

Magenta Sunset Dining BY BRIAN MOTO, Vice Chargé de Presse

IN CELEBRATION OF World Chaîne Day on April 22, Maui Bailliage members boarded Ali‘i Nui Maui, a 65-foot, luxury catamaran, for a sunset dinner cruise in Ma‘alaea Bay. Joining Bailli Adele Rugg were Vice Chargé de Presse Honoraire David Cain, Chevalier Tim Lauer, Chevalier Ben Herren, and Dame de la Chaîne Patricia Herren. An open bar offered passengers assorted sparkling wines, spirits, and locally brewed beers. The sky was clear, and a modest wind filled the sail. After the captain gave a brief orientation about the vessel, the group enjoyed views of the cliffs along the Maui shoreline, the historic McGregor Point Lighthouse, and the dramatic Ukumehame Valley. Toward the west, the islands of Molokini, Kaho‘olawe, and Lana‘i appeared on the horizon. The buffet dinner was prepared by chefs from Beach Bums Bar & Grill in Ma‘alaea. Such treats as macadamia nut-encrusted mahimahi and kiawe baby back ribs were enjoyed as the sun set. The feast concluded with chocolate-covered Maui strawberries and a framboise from the ‘Ulupalakua Winery. As the ship returned to the harbor, the group toasted the Chaîne under a magenta sky and vowed to honor World Chaîne Day again next year. G

Chevalier Tim Lauer and Dame Patricia Herren.

Vice Chargé de Presse Hon. David Cain and Bailli Adele Rugg.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

31


BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY BRADLEY RICE

MEMPHIS

Southern Charm BY DAVID G. SCHLITT, Vice Chargé de Presse Restaurant Iris

THE MEMPHIS BAILLIAGE headed to Midtown Memphis on May 31 to dine at one of the city’s most charming establishments, Restaurant Iris. Attendees were greeted warmly by Owner/Executive Chef Kelly English, a Culinary Institute of America graduate who trained under New Orleans Chef John Besh. Chef English’s spectacular, contemporary French-Creole cuisine is informed by his southern Louisiana heritage and travels around the globe. The many honors he has received since opening Restaurant Iris include being named a James Beard Award Semifinalist for “Best Chef: Southeast” and “Best New Chef” by Food & Wine magazine. Chef English and his team delivered an outstanding fourcourse meal featuring items from local farms. All of the dishes had a Southern touch, and there was even filthy rice to go with the quail. The cellar masters worked their magic in choosing wine accompaniments, offering illuminating commentary on each wine as it was poured. Special thanks go to event host Bailli George Chandler and Dame de la Chaîne Robin Chandler, whose attention to detail contributed significantly to the success of this wonderful event. G

May 31, 2017 HAMACHI CRUDO Citrus, Picked Fennel, Cherries, Pink Peppercorn Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay 2015

Jane Kimzey and Chevalier Gary Kimzey.

EnRoute Winery les Pommiers Pinot Noir 2013 GRILLED LAMB LOIN Crispy Saffron Rice, Charred Tomatoes Alain Jaume & Fils Lirac Domaine du Clos de Sixte 2011 PROFITEROLES Taleggio Fonduta, Grilled Peach-Onion Jam Fonseca Vintage Port 2009

Chevalier Tommy Young and Chevalier Jim Brigance.

MIAMI

Enchanted Italian Evening at Spasso BY MARIA EASTLICK, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON OCTOBER 16, 2016, the Miami Bailliage held its season opener at Spasso restaurant, located in the city’s historic Coconut Grove district. Spasso is the creation of Vice Conseiller Culinaire Honoraire Gaetano Ascione, a native of Naples, Italy, and the only Italian Culinary Master Chef (ICMC) in Miami. Chef Ascione formerly owned Michelin-starred Gioco restaurant in Chicago; since seeking Florida’s warmer climes, he has set a new culinary standard in Miami. The menu was reflective of the chef’s international experience while remaining rooted in his Italian heritage. Attendees relished the juxtaposition of the best of Old World and New World flavors. The highlights included a gorgeous, layered smoked swordfish and ahi tuna bruschetta; homemade tortelloni stuffed with squab and winter vegetables; and red wine-poached pear surrounded by pillows of English custard. The spectacular event concluded with a grappa tasting led by Carolina Cossu, a representative of Grappa Amarone. The tasting was a special treat compliments of Chef Ascione. Bailli Nancy Radlauer extended kudos and thanks to the chef and his team for an extraordinary evening of impeccable service and dazzling cuisine. G Bailli Nancy Radlauer.

32

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

FILTHY RICE-STUFFED QUAIL Broccoli Purée, Smoked Ham Jus


BAILLIAGES

MIAMI

Harmony at Sea BY NANCY RADLAUER, Bailli

THE MIAMI BAILLIAGE has been hosting cruise-ship luncheons since 1976. Some of the chapter’s founding members worked in the industry and paved the way for these dining collaborations, which sell out quickly. Corporate Executive Chef Thomas Szymanski and Bailli On March 11, more than eight-five Miami Nancy Radlauer. Bailliage members boarded Royal Caribbean International’s Harmony of the Seas—the largest cruise ship in the world. Three football fields long, Harmony of the Seas boasts twenty dining venues. (Its Bionic Bar has robots for bartenders!) The ship can accommodate 6,780 passengers and houses 2,100 crew members, who serve a staggering number of meals daily. For this luncheon, Royal Caribbean International assembled its A-team: Director of Food & Beverage, Culinary Operations Michael Gilligan; Corporate Executive Chef Thomas Szymanski; Traveling Corporate Pastry Chef Thierry Houlbert; and Director of Restaurant Operations Dominique Gamba. Chef Gilligan and Director Gamba were transferred to Miami for the day from a sister ship in Curacao, while Chef Szymanski was flown in from a ship in Dubai. The result was outstanding! Bailli Nancy Radlauer acknowledged the team and staff with tokens of appreciation. The spectacular cuisine and seamless service made for another harmonious Chaîne experience. G

Maître de Table Restaurateur Paolo Benassi, Raffaele Benassi, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Jean Pierre Miquel, and Claudine Miquel.

Commandeur Floyd Jayson and Glenda Jayson.

Dame Kim Lerner and Maître de Table Hôtelier Robert Donato.

MICHIGAN

Celebrating Spring at Iridescence BY CANDICE L. CLARK-BERTSCHY, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE MICHIGAN BAILLIAGE’S spring dinner on May 7 marked Raymond Bertschy’s debut as the chapter’s new bailli. Bailli Bertschy is executive chef at the MotorCity Casino Hotel, whose four-star Iridescence restaurant was the venue for the event. In addition to the cuisine, attendees were excited to dine at Iridescence because its large windows provide great views of the city lights at night. Chef de Cuisine Nick Geftos, who trained at Le Cordon Bleu School of Culinary Arts in Las Vegas, worked with Chef/Bailli Bertschy to design a menu highlighting the bounty of Michigan’s farms and waters. Chef/Bailli Bertschy spoke about his team’s enthusiasm in preparing for the event. He introduced Chef de Cuisine Geftos as well as the executive sous-chefs, executive pastry chef, front-of-house staff, and senior vice president of hospitality, all of whom were honored to be involved in this Chaîne event. Joining the Michigan confrères were several prospective Chaîne members, guests from Canada, and VIP guests of the restaurant. Everyone enjoyed meeting new people, catching up with old friends, and savoring the delectable seven-course menu paired with the perfect wine accompaniments. G

Vice Chargée de Presse Candice Clark-Bertschy and Executive Chef/Bailli Raymond Bertschy.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

33


BAILLIAGES

MYRTLE BEACH

Summer Solstice Soirée WaterScapes Restaurant

BY WILLIAM A. HIRSH, South Central Bailli Provincial

June 25, 2017

WATERSCAPES RESTAURANT AT the Marina Inn at Grande Dunes overlooking the Intracoastal Waterway was the picturesque venue for the Myrtle Beach Bailliage’s summer solstice celebration on June 25. The Intracoastal Waterway flows for more than sixty miles, with ancient oaks lining its banks, bald eagles soaring overhead, and pleasure boats cruising the pristine waters. Bailli Allyson Hirsh and Executive Chef Corbett Rourk. The evening opened with the elevation of Mary Maeser to Chargée de Presse Provincial. The culinary highlight at the reception was a whole roasted suckling pig, served with Château Miraval Côtes de Provence Rosé 2016. Members toasted what might be Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s last vintage. (Hopefully, their divorce settlement will preserve this lovely wine.) Attendees then settled in to enjoy Executive Chef Corbett Rourk’s delicious repast. South Carolina summers produce bountiful vegetables and farm-to-table treats, and the chef made use of many locally sourced products. The Myrtle Beach Bailliage works closely with the culinary arts program at Horry Georgetown Technical College, and many of its chefs are professional friends. To that end, confrères felt fortunate to have HGTC Chef Geoff Blount, CEPC, join Chef Rourk in preparing the evening’s dessert. G

SHRIMP CONSOMMÉ Asparagus Timbale, French Tarragon Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ROAST DUCK Beech Mushrooms, Tomato Confit, Madeira Sauce Cloudline Pinot Noir 2015 ROASTED BEEF TENDERLOIN Honey-Glazed Cipollini Onions, Potatoes Dauphinoise Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 LOCAL STRAWBERRIES Buttermilk, Oregano Crumble, Sorghum Syrup Chandon Brut Classic N.V.

NEW ORLEANS

Trick or Treat, Y’all BY TONY RITTER, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON OCTOBER 20, as darkness settled in, one could hear chants of “trick or treat” throughout the city. At Trenasse restaurant, Owner/Chef Jim Richard was ready and waiting for New Orleans Bailliage members. That night there would be no tricks—only treats, and plenty of them, from Chef Richard and his team. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, the Louisianaborn chef worked as a sous-chef at Commander’s Palace and the Palace Café. In 2014, he teamed up with Chef Tommy Finch to open Trenasse in the InterContinental New Orleans hotel. Upon arrival, costumed attendees were greeted by Bailli Yvette Cressend and Argentier National Rufus Cressend. Chef Silvie Jackson assisted Chef Richard in creating a bewitching dining experience. Vice Chancelier-Argentier William Feibleman and Vice Echanson Wayne Forman used some hocus-pocus of their own in pairing the wines. After one and all were seated, a cadre of ghosts and goblins delivered the delicious fare. Yet, before the night could end, there was one more treat to pass out. Argentier National Cressend and Bailli Cressend presented Chef Jackson with an award of merit plaque for her enchanting culinary performance. G

Chevalier Richard Barnes, Kellie Barnes, Dame Melanie Talia, and Vice Chancelier-Argentier William Feibleman.

Dame Ann Yvette de la Villesbret, Chevalier Robert Cangelosi, Dame Cindy Kessler, Al Diket, and Maître de Table Restaurateur Heather Sockrider.

34

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017


BAILLIAGES

NEW ORLEANS

Nawlins Crawfish Boil BY TONY RITTER, Vice Chargé de Presse

SPRINGTIME IN NEW Orleans means one thing—hot boiled crawfish. Travel through any neighborhood and you will experience this springtime tradition. The wonderful aroma of boiling crawfish seasoned with cayenne pepper permeates the air, making anyone who inhales it crave crawfish. The New Orleans Bailliage held its annual crawfish boil on April 23 at the Beach Club. Chef Jason Seither, owner of Seither’s Seafood Restaurant & Oyster Bar, boiled three hundred pounds of crawfish and prepared other goodies for the feast. The chef’s passion for cooking and local seafood led to him opening his restaurant in 2004. In 2013, Seither’s was ranked one of the top places to eat seafood in New Orleans during Lent. When the boiling was done, Bailli Yvette Cressend asked attendees to be seated for dinner. Chef Seither entered with huge trays of crawfish, garlic, potatoes, corn, and sausages, which he placed on the tables. For the next few hours, everybody was pinching tails and sucking heads. As the crawfish was consumed, the wine and beer flowed, and a good time was had by all. Laissez les bons temps rouler! G

Chevalier Ray Steib, Jr., Dame Amy Borrell, Chevalier Don Fearn, and Vice Echanson Wayne Forman.

Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Al Groos and Mary Ann Troxclair.

Argentier National Rufus Cressend and Vice Echanson National Hon. Tony Busalacchi.

NEW ORLEANS

Elegant Evening at Pigeon & Prince BY TONY RITTER, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON MARCH 12, New Orleans Bailliage members gathered for a black-tie dinner at Pigeon & Prince, a new private-events venue. The structure housing Pigeon & Prince was built in 1890; the restaurant’s name derives from the space’s previous uses as a home for carrier pigeons and a bedsit for visiting royals. Executive Chef Erick Loos graduated from the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. A work opportunity brought him to New Orleans, where he moved up the ranks to become sous-chef at Restaurant August, a perk of which was traveling to Provence in the summers to cook at Château de Montcaud. His next stint was at La Provence restaurant, first as chef de cuisine and then as executive chef. For this event, Chef Loos drew on his vast talent and experience to create a wonderful Provençal dinner for confrères. Once again, the evening was beautifully orchestrated by Bailli Yvette Cressend and Argentier National Rufus Cressend. Vice ChancelierArgentier William Feibleman and Vice Echanson Wayne Forman chose perfect wines to complement the dishes. At evening’s end, Chef Loos was presented with an award of merit plaque for his outstanding work. G

Al Diket, Chevalier Don Fearn, and Dame Cynthia Kessler Diket.

Argentier National Rufus Cressend, Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Jane Wolf-Weston, Jim Wolf, and Chambellan Provincial Hon. Carol Lise Rosen.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

35


BAILLIAGES

NEW ORLEANS SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

La Nouvelle-Orléans Cocktails Artisanaux BY TONY RITTER, Vice Chargé de Presse

NEW ORLEANS IS legendary for its French Quarter, jazz, and food, but it also has another claim to fame—crafted cocktails. The Sazerac, Ramos Gin Fizz, and Hurricane are just a few of the Crescent City’s best-known cocktails. All who visit New Orleans should sample them; some may even want to learn to make them on their own. On April 2, New Orleans Mondiale members “went to school” at the New Orleans Drink Lab for just this purpose. They were greeted by “Principal” Camille Whitworth and “Professor” Daniel Victory, who own and operate the Drink Lab and Victory bar. Daniel learned the art and science of cocktail making at the Fairmont Hotel’s Sazerac Bar before taking his skills to the Ritz-Carlton. The student-bartenders were given step-by-step instructions on how to create one of the three cocktails, which were then enjoyed with delicious fare prepared by Chef Rôtisseur Leon West. Camille and Daniel gave all of the students an A+ for their great work. Before the final bell rang, Argentier National Rufus Cressend presented the couple with a Chaîne decanter to display at the New Orleans Drink Lab. G

Owner Camille Whitworth, Owner Daniel Victory, Argentier National Rufus Cressend, and Bailli Yvette Cressend.

Tish Steib and Chevalier Raymond Steib, Jr.

PEACHTREE

A Taste of Basque Country BY JUDITH TAYLOR, Dame de la Chaîne

Cooks & Soldiers January 31, 2016

ATLANTA’S RESTAURANT SCENE is growing so fast that it’s hard to keep up with all of the new restaurants opening across the city. The hottest are typically in newly gentrifying neighborhoods and are led by rising young chefs. On January 31, 2016, the Peachtree Francine Green and Echanson Provincial/Bailli Richard Smith. Bailliage, headed by Echanson Provincial/Bailli Richard Smith, dined at Cooks & Soldiers, which Eater Atlanta named “Restaurant of the Year” in 2015. Run by General Manager Nicolas Quiñones, this gourmet Basque restaurant has been receiving rave reviews and accommodating large crowds. Cooks & Soldiers was filled to capacity, with members eager to experience Executive Chef Landon Thompson’s Basque cuisine, aptly paired with Spanish wines. The culinary highlight was grilled Chuletón—moist and tasty steak that shared a plate with grilled fish. The duo was served with Bodegas Reyes Teofilo Reyes Tinto Cosecha Ribera del Duero 1997 from Echanson Provincial/ Bailli Smith’s cellar. Before departing, the group showered Chef Thompson, Executive Sous-Chef John Castallucci, and the talented Cooks & Soldiers team with applause, pins, and a plaque. Those fortunate enough to attend will long remember this delicious evening! G

36

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

WHITE ANCHOVY FILLETS Garlic, Onions, Olive Oil, Parsley Pazo de Galegos Albariño Rias Baixas 2014 IBÉRICO TENDERLOIN AND QUAIL SAUSAGE Rice Grits, Marcona Almond, Swiss Chard, Jus La Antigua Classico Reserva Rioja 2006 GRILLED FISH AND CHULETÓN Beets, Brussels Sprouts, Wild Mushrooms Bodegas Reyes Teofilo Reyes Tinto Cosecha Ribera del Duero 1997 CHOCOLATE TART Pistachio, Pomegranate Emilio Lustau East India Solera Sherry N.V.


BAILLIAGES

PEACHTREE

Fall Dinner at Druid Hills

Druid Hills Golf Club

BY MARK A. KOZINN, Vice Chargé de Presse

November 8, 2015

THE DRUID HILLS Golf Club in Atlanta hosted the Peachtree Bailliage’s fall induction dinner on November 8, 2015. The club, chartered in 1912 and the home course for the Dogwood Invitational Golf Tournament, was the perfect venue for the event. In the1970s, there was a paucity of fine-dining establishments in Atlanta, and some of the city’s best chefs used their homes as private clubs. Eventually, as a new cadre of chefs and restaurateurs came to Atlanta and more fine-dining restaurants Vice Chargé de Missions Michael Jacobson and Bailli with respectable wine lists opened, the need for private clubs Provincial Tony Hirsh. diminished. However, the Peachtree Chapter’s dinner at Druid Hills demonstrated the continued relevance of private clubs in these days of “star chefs.” A recent winner of the 86’d Culinary Collision—a well-known, fiercely competitive cooking competition—Executive Chef Livinton Bedminster embodies proof that private clubs still attract star chefs. His skill, creativity, and facility with molecular gastronomy were apparent in the outstanding dinner he prepared for attendees. It was a fitting welcome for Maître Restaurateur Robert Cawley and Chevaliers Kevin Downs, Michael Malloy, Randy Morgan, and Paul Payne, all of whom were inducted that evening by Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh. G

MAINE DAYBOAT SCALLOPS Butternut Squash Purée, Apple-Walnut Salad Talley Vineyards Oliver’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 LAMB BELLY Mushrooms, Brussels Sprouts, Collard Greens Domaine les Aphillanthes Rasteau “1921” 2010 PAINTED HILLS SIRLOIN AND BRAISED SHORT RIB Potato-Parsnip Pudding, Fall Vegetables Domaine Daniel Rion & Fils Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2002 CHERRY TOMATO MACAROON Blackberry Jam, Olive Oil Ice Cream, Lavender Foam, Tomato Dust Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey Premier Cru Sauternes 2005

PHOTOS BY PAUL KOULOGEORGE

PHILADELPHIA

Dinner with Chef Georges Perrier BY ELIAV BARR, Vice Chargé de Presse

CHEF GEORGES PERRIER and his contemporaries expanded the reach of French haute cuisine in North America in the 1970s, well before the start of the fine-food, quality-sourcing, and celebrity-chef movements in the United States. For four decades, Chef Perrier’s Le Bec-Fin restaurant gained great acclaim and garnered numerous awards. For loyal patrons, it was the place to celebrate major achievements and romance future spouses; for several talented young chefs, it served as a training ground. Sadly, Le Bec-Fin closed, succumbing to the dining trend of less formality and tradition. Yet, Chef Perrier is not fully retired, and Philadelphia Bailliage members were thrilled that Bailli Thomas Knox was able to coax him to reprise his outstanding French cuisine at Restaurant Beril on April 19. Chef Perrier was in top form, his gruff voice commanding the kitchen brigade to achieve its best. The Lyonnaise haute cuisine was an homage to spring. French and French-style New World wines complemented the delicious meal. Following dinner, Bailli Knox congratulated Chef Perrier, noting that Philadelphia confrères will always regard him as the man who put the city’s burgeoning food scene on the national map. G

Restaurant Beril Owner/Chef Michael Franco, Vice Conseiller Culinaire Hon./Chef Georges Perrier, and Bailli Thomas Knox.

Officier Robin Lowey, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Paul Schulze, and Dame Ruth Morelli.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

37


BAILLIAGES

PHILADELPHIA

Culinary Tour of Italy BY ELIAV BARR, Vice Chargé de Presse

PHILADELPHIA HAS ONE of the largest Italian-American communities in the United States, and Panorama is one of the city’s original “haute Italian” restaurants. New Executive Chef Matthew Gentile’s focus on local sourcing and creating inventive regional dishes has helped shine the spotlight back on this venerable establishment. For the Philadelphia Bailliage’s dinner at Panorama on May 21, Chef Gentile created a “Tour of Italy” menu that paired each dish with a wine from the same region. The tour began in Calabria, a coastal region known for its seafood. The next stop was Lazio, a hilly region famous for its pasta dishes. Chef Gentile’s classic cacio e pepe was escorted by Casale del Giglio Petit Verdot 2013. Among its many claims to fame, the Piemonte region is known for its lamb. To this end, a beautiful lamb loin and leg dish was paired with the magnificent Giuseppe e Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2008. For dessert, Chef Gentile took diners to Naples for a modernized version of traditional rum baba cake. Matching the heat of the rum was Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio 2015, made from grapes grown on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. G

Dame Adriana Lo Piccolo, Officier Ellen Baer, and Chevalier Maurice Lo Piccolo.

Vice Chargé de Presse Eliav Barr and Officier Paul Koulogeorge.

SAN ANTONIO

Dancing in the Holidays San Antonio Country Club

BY JIM RAY, Southwest Chargé de Presse Provincial Honoraire

December 3, 2016

ON DECEMBER 3, 2016, San Antonio Bailliage members returned to the San Antonio Country Club for a holiday Chevalier Mark Milbourn, Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon, Conseiller Gastronomique dinner and dance. The elegant club Provincial John Wade, Chevalier Michael Davis, Chargé de Presse Provincial Jim Ray, and has been a favorite venue for holding Chevalier George Smith. the chapter’s annual holiday gala, and General Manager/Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Honoraire Marvin Jones always ensures that everybody has a great time. To carry out the “Christmas in Red” theme, several male confrères wore their Joselito aprons. The aprons date back to when a group from the San Antonio Bailliage attended the International Tapas Competition in Valladolid, Spain. One of the tours was to Joselito, which is considered the best Ibérico ham producer in the world. It was a special experience for those on the tour, as visitors are not ordinarily allowed. Vice Echanson Jeff Degner selected excellent wines from the chapter’s cellar to pair with the magnificent five-course meal. After dinner, well-deserved kudos and thanks were extended to the culinary team. Enthusiastic attendees then took to the floor to dance the evening away to Dame Gill Beswick, Dame Ritchie Seymour, and Dame Maria Henderson. music by the Mo-Dels, a popular local dance band. G 38

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

TOMATO-SEAFOOD BISQUE Domaines Ott By OTT Cô​tes de Provence Rosé 2015 SWEET POTATO GNOCCHI Wild Boar-Mushroom Ragù Gaja Ca’Marcanda Magari Super Tuscan 2001 DUCK CONFIT AND PLAINTAIN PASTELÓN Piquillo Pepper-Chorizo Sauce Cornerstone Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 SHORT RIB-STUFFED PRIME RIB Parsnip-Cauliflower Purée, Roasted Shallots Château Gazin Pomerol 2004 CHOCOLATE AND CHERRIES BAKED ALASKA Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port 2005


BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY TOM PHILLIPS

SAN ANTONIO

Induction Dinner at the Argyle Club BY VIVIAN RAY, Bailli

THE ARGYLE CLUB in San Antonio is a Chaîne member establishment. On March 26, COO/General Manager/Maître Hôtelier Michael Vlad, Executive Chef/Maître Rôtisseur Serge Devesa, Vice Conseiller Culinaire Marvin Jones, and Vice Echanson Jeff Degner orchestrated an elegant dinner for the San Antonio Bailliage paired with fine wines Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial John Wade, Dame Janace Wade, Bailli Hon. Fernando from the chapter’s cellar. Salazar, Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Judy Salomon, and Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon. Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon inducted fourteen members into the Chaîne and elevated Vice Chargé de Medias Sociaux Tom Phillips. Bailli Vivian Ray recognized fourteen new-member sponsors with Share the Chaîne pins. In addition, Vice Chargée de Missions Honoraire Carol Klein, Bailli Provincial Salomon, and Chevalier Neil Walsdorf received their commandeur pins, and Vice Conseiller Culinaire Honoraire Clyde Guinn received his officier commandeur pin. The magnificent mansion that houses the Argyle Club was built in 1854 as the headquarters of a horse ranch. Thirty years later, it was transformed into a hotel. Today, the club is devoted to supporting the Texas Biomedical Research Institute, providing a link between the institute and those who give their time and money to support it. The evening ended with the cracking open of the beautiful chocolate Fabergé egg centerpiece, which diners enjoyed with Dow’s Vintage Port 1991. G

Professionnel du Vin Nick Renneker, Dame Patricia Parker Weber, and Officier Ladd Little.

SAN FRANCISCO

Remember When… Revisited Iron Gate Restaurant

BY MARCIA STRIFFELER, Vice Conseiller Culinaire

August 13, 2017

THE IRON GATE Restaurant in Belmont, California, is known for its classic French cuisine featuring flamed dishes prepared tableside. It is one of a small number of restaurants still permitted to do this type of preparation in its dining room. San Francisco Bailliage members were delighted to return to Iron Gate on August 13 for their second event there in four years and to be joined by members of the Hillsborough and Napa-Sonoma bailliages. Maître Rôtisseur Kevin Tucker and Kim Tucker. Bailli Elliot Katz welcomed the nearly sixty attendees. In keeping with the retro theme, the menus had an old-school quality. Diners watched in awe as Co-Owner/Chef Kaveh Abbaszadeh flambéed steak Diane and veal moutarde tableside. The entrée choices were paired with another delicious taste from the past: Robert Mondavi Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1988, courtesy of Vice Echanson Sal Campagna’s personal cellar. Yet, the evening’s most dramatic presentation was the finale of Cafe Diablo. To create this libation, Chef Abbaszadeh poured spirits down a flaming length of clove-studded orange peel. It is a rare these days to see flaming tableside preparations, and this experience, along with the abundant Chaîne camaraderie, made for a truly special event. G

CAESAR SALAD PETRALE SOLE ALMONDINE White Wine, Lemon, Butter Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc 2016 STEAK DIANE FLAMBÉ Brandy, Cream, Brown Sauce

or VEAL MOUTARDE FLAMBÉ Dijon Mustard Sauce, Marsala, Mushrooms, Brandy Robert Mondavi Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1988

WINTER 2017

BANANAS FOSTER Vanilla Ice Cream Cafe Diablo

::

GASTRONOME

::

39


BAILLIAGES

SPRINGFIELD

Asian Street Food at Bistro Verde BY ROSALIE LOWERY, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON OCTOBER 21, 2016, Springfield Bailliage members held their fall dinner at Bistro Verde, the student-operated restaurant that is part of Lincoln Land Community College’s Hospitality & Culinary Arts department. Attendees were greeted by Bailli John Dale Kennedy and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jay Kitterman. The champagne reception featured tasty dim sum selections. Dinner was an adventure in Asian flavors. Sesame-seared catfish sushi introduced an interesting combination of butternut squash and galangal cream cheese. The entrée of braised short ribs and seared dayboat scallops with bean thread noodles received raves from diners. Chai sabayon with cardamom fruit compote, escorted by Eroica Riesling 2013, ended the meal on a sweet note. Of the five wines that Chambellan Provincial Honoraire Geoff Bland chose to complement the menu, four came from the chapter’s Thomas Y. Pearson Memorial Wine Cellar. During the intermezzo, some of the culinary students spoke about their educational experiences and answered confrères’ questions about the meal preparation. The Springfield Bailliage supports the LLCC Hospitality & Culinary Arts program by awarding scholarships to students annually. G

Bailli John Dale Kennedy, Dame Linda Moulton, and Chevalier Kreigh Moulton.

SPRINGFIELD SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Wine Tasting in the Garden BY ROSALIE LOWERY, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON JULY 5, Springfield Mondiale members enjoyed superb wines and live entertainment in a beautiful setting: the Washington Park Botanical Gardens. The picture-perfect weather and lovely grounds set the tone for a delightful summer evening in the company of Chaîne friends. The event was designed to acquaint non-Mondiale members with this winecentric aspect of the Chaîne. The inspiration for the evening’s wines came from a New York Times article that caught the eye of Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jay Kitterman; the article referenced delicious but little-known white wines from around the world. Chambellan Provincial Honoraire Geoff Bland seized on this idea to arrange a tasting of ten lesser-known European wines. Sweet and savory appetizers created by 5Flavors Catering Co-Owner/Executive Chef Chip Kennedy accompanied the wines. The excellent tunes of the Smooth Times Band inspired several attendees to kick up their heels on the dance floor. Washington Park provided a magnificent backdrop for the event, as the gardens were in full bloom. Those not inclined to dance took advantage of the mild temperatures to stroll through the gardens while enjoying their wine. G

40

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jay Kitterman and Ronée Kennedy.


BAILLIAGES

SPRINGFIELD

Chaîne After Work BY ROSALIE LOWERY, Vice Chargée de Presse

SPRINGFIELD BAILLIAGE MEMBERS weathered a light rain as they gathered for a “Chaîne After Work” event at Robert’s Seafood Market on September 29, 2016. “Chaîne After Work” is a member-sponsored, members-only event series designed to give confrères an opportunity to get to know each other better in more casual settings while still adhering to the principles of the Chaîne. The event was well-attended by both longtime and new members. Prepared by Chef Sean Keeley of Lincoln Land Community College’s Culinary Institute, the artfully presented hors d’oeuvres were made entirely from Robert’s Seafood Market products. Chambellan Provincial Honoraire Geoff Bland chose the lovely Joseph Drouhin Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay 2014 and Foggy Valley Pinot Noir 2011 for members to enjoy with the fare. Robert’s Seafood Market is a fourth-generation, family-owned business that offers the finest, most sustainable local and global products. The shop now features more than thirty-five different artisanal balsamic and olive oils, Jacobsen Salts from the Oregon Coast, and a wide variety of gourmet products. It was a culinary pleasure to sample just a small fraction of the shop’s delicious stock. G

Chevalier Randy Ross and Chevalier Phil Wheat.

TAMPA SUN COAST

Grand Induction Dinner BY JENNIFER M. DENLINGER, Southeast Chargée de Presse Provincial Honoraire

MANY CHAÎNE MEMBERS regard their chapter’s formal induction dinner as the grandest event of the year. This was certainly true of confrères who attended the Tampa Sun Dame Tanuja Kotak, Dame Jennifer Arney, Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer, Bailli Robert Pressner, Chevalier Thomas Patterson, and Dame Erica Paradise. Coast Bailliage’s black-tie induction gala on January 15 at the Avila Golf & Country Club. Attendees were treated to an exclusive engagement by Opera Tampa members Linda Hines (soprano), Brent Douglas (pianist), and Timothy Wilt (bass/baritone). Their wide selection of songs delighted one and all. The chapter welcomed inductees Dames de la Chaîne Jennifer Arney, Tanuja Kotak, and Erica Paradise and Chevalier Thomas Patterson. Three of the new members also joined the Mondiale. At the reception, attendees enjoyed the camaraderie of old and new friends while nibbling delicious hors d’oeuvres and sipping champagne. The musical performance continued during dinner, which entailed seven glorious courses. The dessert of opera torte-inspired gâteau was decadent and paid homage to the evening’s entertainment. The Tampa Sun Coast Chapter kicked off 2017 in grand style, with spectacular food, great friends, and the promise of a wonderful new year! G Chevalier Dave Distefano, Tricia Kelly, and Chevalier Ray Kelly.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

41


BAILLIAGES

TOLEDO

Guten Appetit! BY REBECCA CONKLIN KLEIBOEMER, Vice Chargée de Presse

FAST CARS AND good food make an excellent pairing, especially at a BMW dealership. On April 19, Toledo Bailliage members were invited first to test-drive the auto manufacturer’s “ultimate driving machines” and then to enjoy a buffet of classic German cuisine. The award-winning BMW of Toledo dealership is part of the Yark Automotive Group, a family-owned company that has served the northwestern Ohio and southeastern Michigan regions for three decades. Vice Chancelier-Argentier Mary Martin and Nancy Burke. Confrères were given the keys to 7 Series luxury sedans, M Model turbo coupes, and a new electric vehicle that packs a performance wallop. The need for speed created an inevitable need for sustenance, and Tree City Catering and Vintage Wine Distributor satisfied attendees’ appetites and thirst in grand form. Tree City Owner/Chef Scott Pierce prepared bratwurst, kohlrouladen, and other classic German dishes. Vintage Wine Distributor representative Ann Edelstein Kisin presented wines cultivated from the best parcels on German vineyard estates, including a Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2015 whose zesty finish was straight from “the kingdom of heaven.” The Toledo Chapter enjoys mixing casual events like this one with more formal events throughout the year. G

PHOTOS BY CHRISTINE SENACK

TOLEDO

Spanish-Asian Fusion Dinner BY REBECCA CONKLIN KLEIBOEMER, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE TOLEDO MUSEUM of Art strives to integrate art into people’s lives. Joe Felix, the museum’s executive chef, carried out that mission to perfection with a Spanish-Asian fusion dinner for the Toledo Bailliage on February 11. Confrères gathered in the Glass Pavilion, which houses the museum’s world-renowned glass collection and itself is a work of art. Chef Felix found culinary inspiration in the museum’s galleries—particularly in the Asia wing, from the vibrant colors of kimonos painted on ancient scrolls to a statue of an ox pulling a cart. That little bovine was a big hit in the form of oxtail chili ­relleno. Yet, the pièce de résistance was the dessert. The museum’s glass collection includes an original window from the historic Coonley House, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Straight black lines, little red squares, and yellow and green circles were recreated as chocolate ganache, fruit leather, cake, and other sweets on a long, rectangular dish. Attendees were delighted to have been completely immersed in art: surrounded by it, educated about it, and literally satiated by it. Both the Glass Pavilion’s transparent walls and Chef Felix’s inspired dishes illustrated the boundlessness of art. G

Vintage Wine Distributor Representative Ann Edelstein Kisin and Executive Chef Joe Felix.

Lois Churchill and Bailli Ann Sanford.

42

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017


BAILLIAGES

TULSA SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Badda Bing, Badda Vino BY STEVE GERKIN, Vice Echanson

AT THE SUMMIT Club on March 16, Tulsa Mondiale members learned about the history, culture, cuisine, and wines of Cosa Nostra (“our thing”)—aka Sicily. Vice Echanson Steve Gerkin, Bailli Sue Gerkin, Chevalier Hap Fry, Sharon Miller, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Following the champagne reception, revelers topped Lynette Savage, and Chevalier Randy Savage. off their glasses and settled in for Vice Echanson Steve Gerkin’s customary educational presentation. He detailed Sicily’s history, including its “men of honor” (the Sicilian mafia), and introduced a cadre of wines to pair with the seafood-rich cuisine. The culinary heritage of many different cultures makes Sicilian cuisine among the richest in Italy. Fresh food is abundant: shellfish, lamb, fruit, mushrooms, and assorted fish. The country’s three principal wine regions produce five white grapes and two reds. Marsala, from the province of Trapani, on the western end of the island, is the most famous Sicilian wine product. Produced using the solera system, the wine is systematically aged by blending a mixture of different vintages. For the subsequent dinner, crab-eggplant tagliolini and grilled swordfish were paired with Bellus Scopello Frappato 2015 and Girolamo Russo a’Rina Etna Rosso 2014, respectively. A marsala by Paolo Lazzaroni & Figli accompanied the sweet finale of cassata with honey and apricot. G Dame Carla Mamalis, Chevalier Clark Bundren, and Dame Susie Detwiler.

TULSA SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Israeli Wines and Cuisine BY STEVE GERKIN, Vice Echanson

THE SUMMIT CLUB has become the unofficial clubhouse of Tulsa Mondiale members. Led by Vice Echanson Steve Gerkin, each Mondiale event focuses on a particular wine region. For the gathering on October 6, 2016, Israel was the focus. The difficult-to-source Chevalier Mark Goldman, Chevalier W.C. Goad, Dame Jessica Farmer, Dame Ann Cassidy, and wines of Golan Heights and Galilee pleased the group. Chevalier Chevalier Perry Farmer. Mark Goldman distributed commemorative pins that featured the flag of Israel. Israeli wines turned the corner in the 1980s, when vintners began making a concerted effort to produce quality juice rather than primarily sacremental offerings. During the evening, a sauvignon blanc, sauvignon blanc/muscat, merlot, bordeaux blend, and dessert-style muscat graced the glasses of the Mondialites. Ottolenghi : The Cookbook, written by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi, reflects the complex cuisine of contemporary Jerusalem—the hometown of the Jewish Yotam and Palestinian Sami. Jerusalem artichoke soup, goat’s milk labneh with tomato and preserved lemon, and plum-ginger-rhubarb sauce all found places on the menu. Following dinner, Executive Chef Sean McDonald, General Manager Tony Zaranti, Beverage Manager Trevin Hoffman, and their teams took well-deserved bows as diners showed their appreciation through hearty applause. G

Chevalier Dave Wong, Dame Ping McBride, and Sommelier Matthew Wong.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

43


PHOTOS BY STEVEN POPE

BAILLIAGES

VAIL

Celebrating the Holidays on Vail Mountain BY CAROLYN POPE, Bailli

Eva Milko, Deb Woodward, Dame Sandi Brown, Bailli Carolyn Pope, and Kay Chester. Game Creek Club December 13, 2016 WELSH RAREBIT SALAD Croutons, Cheese Fondue, Arugula CLASSIC POTTED SHRIMP Toast Points, Lemon, Dill Cream ROASTED GOOSE Apple-Plum Stuffing, Confit Potato, Brussels Sprouts, Chestnuts, Gravy TRADITIONAL ENGLISH PUDDING Brandy Cream Sauce

Bailli Hon. Jim Kugeler and Bobbi Kugeler.

VERMONT

Midsummer Night Inaugural Feast BY LIZ SPITLER, Bailli, AND NEIL BOYLAN, Chevalier

THE SUMMER SOLSTICE marked a new life for the Vermont Bailliage. The Green Mountain State is home to many amazing farmers, ranchers, and artisans who strive for both environmental harmony and delicious flavor. Thus, the Vermont Chapter is blessed with myriad wonderful restaurant options. The chapter chose Hen of the Wood restaurant as the Michael Regan, Boston Officier Kathy LaShay Berenson, Bailli Liz Spitler, “Bottom” (Chambellan venue for its inaugural dinner on June 20. Chef de Cuisine Provincial/Boston Bailli Marshall Berenson), Chevalier Neil Boylan, and Naples Vice Chargé de Presse Hon. Robert Evans. Jordan Ware’s menu featured food and wine pairings that aligned with the theme of A Midsummer Night’s Dream. In attendance were Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli Marshall Berenson and Boston Officier Kathy LaShay Berenson; Naples Vice Chargé de Presse Honoraire Robert Evans and Joyce Evans; and Denise and Michael Regan. The character of Bottom also made an appearance: “Not a word of me. All that I will tell you is, that the duke hath dined.” Hen of the Wood offered a warm, inviting atmosphere, seamless service, and outstanding food and wine. Bailli Liz Spitler and Chevalier Neil Boylan welcome further opportunities “to seek new friends and stranger companies” and are planning more events that will enable confrères to enjoy the pleasures of Vermont’s farm-to-table bounty. G

44

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

WINTER 2017

PHOTOS BY KIKA BRONGER AND TARA PEREIRA

VAIL OFFERS MANY unique venues for Chaîne events. For a holiday celebration, where could be better than the top of Vail Mountain? The snow was flying on December 13 as sixty Vail Bailliage members headed up the hill on the gondola out of Lionshead. At the top of the mountain, heated snowcats awaited them. Their destination was the Game Creek Club. Executive Chef Steve Topple tipped his toque to the Chaîne’s origins with the roasted goose entrée. The meal also featured traditional Christmas pudding. Chef Topple, who is British, recently represented Vail as a featured chef at the James Beard House. He helmed the kitchen at Beano’s Cabin before coming to the Game Creek Club. For this event, the club’s beautiful café level was reserved exclusively for Chaîne revelers. Following the champagne reception, attendees settled in at long tables for the feast. Starting off with a happy “Cheers!” (in true British style) and continuing through the finale, which included traditional Christmas crackers, confrères dined on what might have been served at the Cratchit family home after Scrooge started footing the bill! G


BAILLIAGES

VIRGIN ISLANDS

Inductions and Honors at the Blue Orchid BY ALAN R. FEUERSTEIN, Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Bailli Provincial

ON APRIL 9, members of the U.S. and British Virgin Islands bailliages attended an induction gala at the Blue Orchid, situated on the grounds of the St. Peter Greathouse. Located on the north side of St. Thomas, the restaurant offers gorgeous “down-island” views of both islands. Esteemed Bailli Provincial Ronald Overend, assisted by Chargée de Presse Provincial/Nassau Bailli Isabella Overend, Bailli Honoraire Marston Winkles, and Bailli Alan Feuerstein, presided over the ceremonies. Thirteen new members were inducted into the Chaîne. In addition, Bailli-elect Amarylis Davila-Agosto received a Bronze Star of Excellence, and Dame de la Chaîne Marcia Resnick was awarded a Bronze Mondiale Medal of Honor. General Manager/Maître Restaurateur Steve DelGiorno and Executive Chef/ Maître Rôtisseur Karl Foster collaborated with Chaîne professional members on the Bailli Alan Feuerstein, Professionnel de la Table Andrea Goldberg, and Bailli seven-course gourmet menu. During dinner, Chef Foster provided commentary on Provincial Ron Overend. the preparations, while wine-purveyor representatives, including Vice Echanson Frank Machover, Professionnel du Vin Tegan Lucas, and Bailli-elect Davila-Agosto, gave detailed wine critiques. Following the meal, confrères continued to enjoy the camaraderie as they socialized with the staff, guests, and fellow members. All agreed that this event represented the epitome of a Chaîne dining experience! G

VIRGIN ISLANDS

Italian Evening at Virgilio’s Virgilio’s

BY ALAN R. FEUERSTEIN, Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Bailli Provincial

AT THE INVITATION of General Manager Matt Richardson and Executive Chefs Ernesto Garrigos and Fortino Carmona, Virgin Islands Bailliage members were treated to an evening of authentic Italian cuisine at Virgilio’s restaurant on June 4, 2016. Twenty-nine attendees partook of the exquisite meal. Bailliage officers worked with the Virgilio’s trio for nearly a year to fine-tune every aspect of the evening. As intended, such attention to detail ensured that this representation of fine Italian dining in the Caribbean was a pinnacle experience. The venue’s interior is similar to those of many fine Italian restaurants found in New York. The eclectic décor and wall-to-wall artwork inside of this centuries-old former Danish warehouse provided the perfect backdrop for the evening’s tantalizing parade of savory delights. While all of the Italian and Sicilian wine accompaniments were well chosen, Amaro Montenegro—a delightful digestif made from a blend of forty-plus herbs from across the globe—stood out from the rest. It was the perfect way to cap an evening of fine Italian food and Chaîne camaraderie. G

June 4, 2016 PORTOBELLO MUSHROOM Organic Greens, Balsamic Vinegar Pannier Brut Rosé N.V. PASTA E FAGIOLI Peppoli Chianti Classico

Bailli Alan Feuerstein, and General Manager Matt Richardson.

PRAWNS OREGANATA Risotto Diablo Château Vrai Caillou EntreDeux-Mers 2014 AGNOLOTTI Porcini-Brandy Cream Sauce Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2011 OSSO BUCO MILANESE Cream Risotto Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino TIRAMISU Vin Santo del Chianti Classico DOC 2006 Amaro Montenegro Digestif Liqueur

Maître Rôtisseur David Goldberg and Professionnel de la Table Andrea Goldberg.

WINTER 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

45


Hillsborough Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Announces its 18th Annual Floating Assemblage “The Tradition Sails On!” Bailli Honoraire Lois Ferrero Gogol and the Hillsborough Bailliage Cordially invite you on 2018’s amazing itinerary,

“Romantic Roads of Europe Cruise”

May 15 - 30, 2018 | Monte Carlo to Venice Sail onboard the Silver Whisper, from Monte Carlo, Monaco (overnight); Antibes, France; Portofino, Italy; Livorno, Italy (overnight); Porto-Vecchio (Corsica), France; Olbia (Sardinia), Italy; Civitavecchia (Rome), Italy; Sorrento, Italy; Palermo, Sicily; Taormina, Italy; Valetta, Malta; Day at Sea; Dubrovnik, Croatia; Venice, Italy (overnight) Silver Whisper, a member of the Hillsborough Bailliage, is being honored on this special voyage.

Enjoy complimentary onboard Chaîne events and optional Chaîne International Hospitality onshore.

Contact Officer Carole Bagley of the Hillsborough Bailliage: email: aworldpro@aol.com 800-652-7847 or 650-697-0230 (West Coast)

Additional Information: Silver Privilege cruise fare is per guest in U.S. dollars, based on double-occupancy, and includes port charges, government fees and taxes. *One hour free WiFi per day for all guests. Unlimited free WIFI for guests sailing on select suite categories All fares, savings, offers, itineraries and programmes are subject to change without notice. Other restrictions may apply. Chaîne onshore activities for Chaîne members are not included in cost of the cruise. For those who wish to join optional activities, we recommend you do not make your air arrangements until our Confrères release their programs. Holley Travel, CST#1002695-10, Silversea and the Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Ltd. recommend that travel insurance be obtained for your own protection if you join the cruise and program. For additional information, go to www.silversea.com. Ship's Registry: Bahamas. The Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Ltd. has agreed to promote this cruise as a service to its members. Members who choose to participate understand and agree that they are contracting directly with Holley Travel and Silversea, and that the Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Ltd. is not responsible in the event of any dispute between the member and Silversea.


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.