Gastronome Extra! Winter2018 by Chaîne des Rôtisseurs

WINTER 2018

Philanthropy FOUNDATION FRIENDS

Bailliages LOCAL EVENTS

Members NEWS & AWARDS

Culinary Colloquy BOOK REVIEWS

CONTENTS

4 Calendar • 5 A Message from the Editor-in-Chief • 7 Letter from the President Philanthropy :: 6 Foundation Friends Awards & Honors :: 8 Awards, New Officers, and In Memoriam Members :: 10 Members in the News Culinary Colloquy :: 11 Reviews of Ritz & Escoffier and Kitchen Confidential Bailliages :: 12 Events

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

CONTENTS

Albany �� 12, 13, 48

La Grande Cave du New Jersey �� 52

Atlanta �� 48

Maui �� 53

Austin �� 14

Miami �� 36, 37

Bonita �� 15, 16 Boston �� 17, 18, 19 Buffalo �� 20, 21, 49

Myrtle Beach �� 53 Naples �� 38, 39 New Orleans �� 40

Chicago �� 22, 23, 24 New York �� 54 Cincinnati �� 25, 26 Orlando �� .…….54 Colonial New England �� 49 Philadelphia �� 41, 42, 43 Delaware Valley �� 27, 28, 50 Denver Mile High �� 29 Des Moines �� 50 Garden State �� 30, 51 Jamaica �� 31, 32

Pittsburgh �� 55 San Antonio �� 44 Seattle �� 45 St. Louis �� 55

Kansas City �� 51, 52

Tampa Sun Coast �� 56

Kauai/Oahu �� 33, 34

Triangle �� 56, 57

Lacs et des Bois �� 35

Washington, D.C ��46, 47, 57

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

CALENDAR

JANUARY 11-12

SOUTHWEST REGIONAL MONDIALE EVENT Houston, TX Contact: Echanson Provincial William Ridlehuber at wridlehuber@icloud.com NATIONAL YOUNG CHEFS CULINARY PROGRAM FUND-RAISING DINNER Clearwater, FL Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or kevind@chaineus.org

CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS

GASTRONOME Extra! Winter 2018

PRESIDENT

Harold S. Small PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

MARCH 1-3

FAR WEST REGIONAL CHAPITRE Orange County, CA Contact: Bailli Provincial Phil Kress at (714) 814-2624 or pkress@aol.com

Marie Addario ART & DESIGN

artattack!creative MANAGING EDITOR

APRIL

Carolyn March

4-7

IDWEST REGIONAL CHAPITRE AND YOUNG CHEFS M RÔTISSEURS AND PASTRY COMPETITIONS Indianapolis, IN Contact: Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth at (317) 727-5487 or wilmeth.renee@gmail.com

CHARGÉS DE PRESSE PROVINCIAUX

Isabella Overend

4-7

SOUTH CENTRAL REGIONAL CHAPITRE Savannah, GA Contact: Bailli Provincial William Hirsh at (917) 612-6714 or wahirsh@aol.com

WORLD CHAÎNE DAY Check www.chaineus.org/Events & Travel/National Calendar for events

25-28

ATIONAL SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN MEETING N AND YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION Napa, CA Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or kevind@chaineus.org

Laura Walsh Far West

Kathryn Nicholson Hawaii/Pacific Islands

Percy Nikora Mid-Atlantic

Lee Flischel Midwest

Helen Cappuccino

MAY 30-June 1

Caribbean/Atlantic Islands

Northeast

ATIONAL CULINARY WEEKEND AND YOUNG CHEFS N RÔTISSEURS AND PASTRY COMPETITIONS Pittsburgh, PA Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or kevind@chaineus.org

Robin Du Brin Pacific Northwest

Mary Maeser South Central

JUNE 13-15

John Flammang INTERNATIONAL GENERAL ASSEMBLY Paris, France Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or kevind@chaineus.org

AUGUST 3

OCTOBER 3-6 4

Kathy Shay Southwest COVER PHOTO

“DINNER OF THE CENTURY” Orlando, FL Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or kevind@chaineus.org

Southeast

U.S. GRAND CHAPITRE 60th Anniversary Celebration Baltimore, MD Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or kevind@chaineus.org CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

David H. Ramsey

Published by the U.S. Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Copyright 2018 Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Ltd., a New York not-for-profit corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.

LETTER

A Message from the Editor-in-Chief In our winter edition of Gastronome Extra!, you will find a mélange of stories from various bailliages throughout our ten regions. You may now download and print any of these pages. Published twice yearly (winter and summer) as an online supplement to our hard-copy magazine, GE! requires the same amount of work as Gastronome from our ten regional presses and editorial staff, yet has a slightly different bent. Within these electronic pages, you will find stories on local and regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Young Sommeliers competitions as well as updates to our national calendar and awards given to our members for their wide-ranging contributions. We also update our memorial page to honor those who have passed and have added an upbeat “Members in the News” column to keep you informed about the wonderful things our members are doing on behalf of the Chaîne. On our Culinary Colloquy page, you will find book and movie reviews on topics related to gastronomy. Thanks for reading and enjoy your stories, photos, and menus! Cheers,

Marie C. Addario Editor-in-Chief, Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! Chargée de Presse National

Letters to the Editor-in-Chief may be sent to presse@chaineus.org OR c/o the Chaîne House at Fairleigh Dickinson University, 285 Madison Avenue, Madison, NJ 07940.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

FOUNDATION FRIENDS

Endowments L Marie & Dominick Addario Endowed Fund L L Clyde Braunstein Endowed Fund L L Barbara & John Burson Endowed Fund L L Shelly Margolis Endowment Fund L L Robert & Nadine Pressner Endowed Fund L L Michael & Mary Ann Ty Young Chef Endowment Fund L L Barbara & Irwin Weinberg Endowed Fund L

Annual Gifts Michael Belsley

Ray Farris

Judith Kellogg

Ann Sanford

Charles Bennett

Leo Flischel & The Greater Cincinnati Foundation

Cheryl Kenny

Harold & Susan Small

Steve Kenny

Mont Stern

James Burr

Susan Flischel & The Greater Cincinnati Foundation

Karl Krout

Bryan Stirrat

John & Barbara Burson

Allen & Gaye Frederic

Jill Kummer

Lois & Stan Gogol

Bruce Liebert

Harry Bradbury

Andrew & Helen Cappuccino Keith Chappell

David Greenlee

Young Chappell

Stephen & Tami Gross

Cincinnati Bailliage

Jack & Stephanie Harkness

Bert Cutino

Lee Huang

Eugene Daly

Tyrie Jenkins & George Norcross

Bertrand & Brooke de Boutray Delaware Valley Bailliage

Bill Joy Michael Kalkstein & Susan English

William Eckerle George Elliott

Matthew Karstetter & EllenÂ Rosenberg

Ira & Melissa Falk

Ronald Katz

Jane Mathis J.T. Mayer Theo Mellion Robert Miller Sandra & Thomas Moran Maurice Nicholson

Jeanne Stirrat Ronald & Deidra Stitch Dennis & Sally Swanson David & Joan Szkutak Joe & Julie Tilton Michael Ty Susan Vareschi

Allison Reams & Vicki Altmeyer

William Vareschi

Mon & Beth Roldan

David Weinberg

Mark Rowe

Renee Wilmeth

Bill & Judy Salomon

David Wilson

NOTE: Endowments of $10,000 or more will be maintained as principal with only yearly income supporting the purposes of the Foundation. Donors will be acknowledged in perpetuity. Donations received after December 10, 2018 will be included in the next issue of Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! 6

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

LETTER

Letter from the President Dear Chaîne Members, Our Grand Chapitre in Seattle was special. It was open to all members, and those in attendance experienced the finest in events, cuisine, wine, and, most of all, Chaîne camaraderie. Our 2019 Grand Chapitre will be held in Baltimore, Maryland between October 3-6, so mark your calendars as registration materials will not be available until the spring. Our southernmost regions recently held their regional chapitre. Jamaica Bailli/Chambellan Provincial Derek Elder and his Jamaican team put together four full days of fabulous events for members who traveled from all parts of the Bailliage des Etats-Unis, as well as our international friends from Germany and Great Britain (Bailli Délégué Philip Evins and Wessex Bailli Honoraire Janet Evins). Two members of the Bailliage of Jamaica were awarded Bronze Share the Chaîne pins for introducing inductees of the evening into our ranks. I thanked them and challenged all members to strive for bronze, silver, or gold pins by bringing more members into their bailliages. Understanding that our members are our best emissaries, we began the Share the Chaîne program five years ago and have seen significant membership growth. Bravo to all those who have participated in this important program. This holiday season think about sharing the Chaîne perhaps with a son or daughter or friends and colleagues who share your love of food and wine. Spread the word; give the gift of La Chaîne! Vive la Chaîne!

Harold S. Small Bailli Délégué

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

AWARDS, HONORS & MEDALS

CONSEIL D’HONNEUR THOMAS B. RUFF, South Central Bailli Provincial Honoraire

CHAÎNE STARS of EXCELLENCE GOLD ��

In Memoriam ROBERT A. BRUCE, Bonita Chevalier SUSAN D. BURTON, Salt Lake City Vice Chargée de Presse Honoraire

DEREK J. ELDER, Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Chambellan Provincial/ Jamaica Bailli

RANDALL I. CHUDNOW, San Antonio Chevalier

JOHN C. FANNIN III, Mid-Atlantic Bailli Provincial

ANDRE FOURNIER, San Francisco Bailli Honoraire

BRUCE W. FOUDREE, Jurisconsult

GREGORY T. HOLTZ, Bonita Chevalier

MICHELLE M. METTER, Chargée de Presse National Honoraire

JOSEPH MUSUMECI, Hartford Maître de Table Restaurateur

SILVER ��

WALTER D. PADOW, Southeast Bailli Provincial Honoraire

PIERRE P. BATTAGLIA, Jamaica Vice Conseiller Culinaire

KAYTE SPITLER DIETERICH, Hartford Dame de la Chaîne

GWENDOLYN RISCH, Saint Louis Dame de la Chaîne

ROBERT A. CUGINI, Seattle Bailli L. ROBIN DU BRIN, Pacific Northwest Chargée de Presse Provincial MICHELE B. HEIDT, Seattle Officier KATHRYN A. NICHOLSON, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chargée de Presse Provincial KERRI-ANNE E. RECKORD, Jamaica Vice Chargée de Presse BRONZE �� GIA T. ABRAHAM, Jamaica Vice Chargée de Missions

PETER A. HORTY, Philadelphia Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Honoraire DAVID MAGNASCO, Milwaukee Vice Chargé de Missions

BRILLAT-SAVARIN MEDALS

CAROLE S. BAKST, First State Officier

MÉDAILLE DE MÉRITE ��

EDWARD T. BRENNAN, JR., Conseiller des Professionnels National Honoraire

JACQUES PÉPIN, Connecticut Maître d’Honneur

JOHN B. KOENIG, Jackson Hole Maître Sommelier PAUL M. KOULOGEORGE, Mid-Atlantic Chargé de Presse Provincial KYLE C. MAIS, Jamaica Maître Hôtelier R. DOUGLAS MARTINIDES, Delaware Valley Vice Conseiller Gastronomique RENÉE A. MENZIES-MCCALLUM, Jamaica Dame de la Chaîne JOHN D. MURTHA, Boston Maître Hôtelier DANIEL NELSON, SR., Milwaukee Vice Chargé de Presse Honoraire CLIFTON G. READER, Jamaica Maître Hôtelier ANA LUZ RODRIGUEZ, Boca Raton Dame de la Chaîne JENNIFER A. ROSOFF, South Coast Maître de Table Restaurateur BETTY SASENICK, Seattle Dame de la Chaîne ELENA WAHBEH-FOSTER, Kansas City Vice Chancelier-Argentier

BRONZE ��

CHRISTINA B. ADLER, First State Officier

JEFFREY R. HELLMAN, Connecticut Bailli Honoraire

MONDIALE MEDALS OF HONOR

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

AWARDS, HONORS & MEDALS

CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR NEWEST NATIONAL AND REGIONAL OFFICERS AND BAILLIS NATIONAL OFFICERS �� MARIE C. ADDARIO, Chargée de Presse National EUGENE F. DALY, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique National REGIONAL OFFICERS �� ERIC A. COOPERMAN, South Central Chambellan Provincial KATHRYN A. NICHOLSON, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chargée de Presse Provincial BAILLIS �� RYANNE CARRIER, Georgia Golden Isles Bailli THOMAS HUMPHREY, Central Coast Bailli SUSAN LEE, Honolulu Bailli BECKY M. LUKOVIC, Atlanta Bailli MARY J. MARTIN, Toledo Bailli CLAIRE-LAUREN SCHULZ, Denver Mile High Bailli

SAVE THE DATE! CONFRÉRIE DE LA CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS 2019 NATIONAL YOUNG CHEFS CULINARY PROGRAM DINNER CLEARWATER, FLORIDA ~ JANUARY 12, 2019 ~

Mark Your Calendar! The first-ever National Young Chefs Culinary Program Fund-Raising Dinner will take place on January 12, 2019 at the world-famous Fort Harrison Hotel in Clearwater, Florida. Please join us for a fun-filled weekend of Chaîne-quality dining, camaraderie, and support of our young chefs. Details and event registration will be forthcoming.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

MEMBERS IN THE NEWS

TEAM USA MEDALS SILVER in HOT FOOD TEAM USA Andy Chlebana Gerald Ford Paul Kampff Geo Lanez Kevin Maier Jesus Olmedo Tim Recher

SILVER in COLD FOOD TEAM USA

ACF Culinary Team USA Takes Home Silver and Bronze LUXEMBOURG (NOVEMBER 21-26, 2018) ACF CULINARY TEAM USA waved the American flag proudly at the 2018 Villeroy & Boch Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg, garnering an impressive 18 silver medals and 1 bronze medal. Approximately 75 nations were represented in this elite competition. The U.S. team practiced together for over a year, holding intensive rehearsals in preparation for both the “Restaurant of Nations” hot-food and the “Culinary Art Program” cold-food competitions. All of the U.S. team members and judges are U.S. Chaîne confrères. While their long hours together in the kitchen paid off, it’s now back to work for ACF Culinary Team USA as they plan for their next challenge—the 2020 IKA Culinary Olympics in Stuttgart, Germany. G

Andy Chlebana Gerald Ford Thomas Haggerty Paul Kampff Geo Lanez Kevin Maier Jesus Olmedo

SILVER in COLD FOOD TEAM USA REGIONAL TEAM Stephen Bush Robert Marilla Kelsee Newman Lyn Wells Eric Yeager

SILVER in COLD FOOD Vanessa Marquis

BRONZE in COLD FOOD James Storm

Chaîne Cruise in 2019 COLONIAL NEW ENGLAND Bailli Sandra Kraft—chair of the U.S. Chaîne Travel Committee— is working with Hillsborough Bailli Michael Kalkstein and his confrères to plan a sensational cruise from the Canadian Maritimes to New England. Starting in Montreal and concluding in Boston, the cruise will depart on August 30, 2019. G

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

Jeremy Shanker Places 3rd in International Young Sommeliers Competition MEXICO CITY, MEXICO (SEPTEMBER 22, 2018) SOMMELIER JEREMY SHANKER, representing the United States, showcased his skills and placed third in the Chaîne’s International Young Sommeliers Competition. This annual competition tests competitors from around the globe on blind-tasting ability, tableside wineservice skills, and many areas of wine knowledge. In May, Sommelier Shanker, of Michael Mina in San Francisco, competed against other talented contestants from across the United States, winning top honors for the Pacific Northwest Region in the National Young Sommeliers Competition in Paso Robles. G

CULINARY COLLOQUY

BY MARSHALL L. BERENSON, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli

This installment is a two-pronged look at three important trendsetters and rule breakers in the world of gastronomy and hospitality. First is a new book about the famous twentieth-century partnership between César Ritz and Auguste Escoffier, and second is a look back at the first book by Anthony Bourdain, one of the modern era’s most beloved chef-travelers.

Ritz & Escoffier: The Hotelier, the Chef & the Rise of the Leisure Class, by Luke Barr THIS NEW BOOK is a tight, well-written, and interesting retrospective on the relationship and professional lives of César Ritz and Auguste Escoffier. The book follows Ritz through his meteoric rise in the hospitality field in Europe and his later fall from grace and sad demise. The Swiss-born hotelier apprenticed as a sommelier in his youth, but it was his instinctive, seemingly uncanny ability to predict guests’ needs and desires while in hotel management that led to his celebrity. He followed his wealthy clientele on their season-based travels, providing for their every whim. His early success was parlayed into partnership at London’s palace of consummate luxury—The Savoy. It was there that he teamed up with Escoffier, who brought gastronomy as we know it today into the fore with sumptuous meals fit for royalty, hosted impeccably by Ritz. While accusations of corruption led to their departure from The Savoy, later expansions into Ritz and Carlton brands burnished their reputations into the marquee names we all admire today. G •••

Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly, by Anthony Bourdain THE LOSS OF Anthony Bourdain in June 2018 was a shock to the culinary world. Few modern chefs have had such an outsized effect on food, dining, and modern kitchen culture. Known also for his entertaining food and travel TV shows, Bourdain cut his journalistic teeth on the delicious dish of exposé. His writing style—he dropped out of Vassar and went on to graduate from the Culinary Institute of America—is toothsome and full bodied, with a healthy dose of profane spice, bred of his deep passion for cooking, cooks, and all that happens in the intense, chaotic world of the restaurant kitchen. Although written from his experiences in the last century, the topic and subject areas are as current as ever. The world of food is both larger and smaller from Anthony Bourdain’s trailblazing. Yet, his deeply rooted love of cooking, as conveyed in this memoir, makes it a must-read for anyone who shares even an ounce of his passion. G

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

ALBANY

Splendid Cruise to Nassau

Group at Coastal Kitchen.

BY WILLIAM HARRIS, Bailli

Dame Gwendolyn Schaefer, Chevalier William Schaefer, Professionnel du Vin Mark Harris, and Dame Melanie Greenspan.

Vice Chancelier-Argentier Holly Katz, Chevalier Robert McNamara, and Karen Gagnon.

Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Yono Purnomo (center) and Chef’s Table culinary team.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

ON NOVEMBER 11, 2017, twelve intrepid Albany Bailliage voyagers boarded the Royal Caribbean’s majestic Anthem of the Seas. Their destination was Nassau, Bahamas, with stops at Cape Canaveral and Coco Bay. Yet, as they say, getting there is half the fun. The megaliner had numerous dining venues, and, as Chaîne members, attendees felt compelled to sample as many of Graycliff Restaurant them as possible. A parNovember 2017 ticularly enjoyable meal GNOCCHI was held at the Chef’s Pesto, Parmesan Table. The group also GRAYCLIFF SALAD frequented the Coastal Kitchen, where the WHOLE BAHAMIAN LOBSTER Black Venere Wild Rice food was delicious and B.R. Cohn Pinot Noir Chaîne members were BAHAMIAN DELICACY TEASERS treated like royalty. Guava Duff, Bread Pudding, The highlight Apple Crumble, Gelato Royal Tokaji 3 Puttonyos of the trip was a luncheon at the venerable Graycliff Hotel & Restaurant in Nassau, arranged by Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Chargée de Presse Provincial/Nassau Bailli Isabella Overend and Bailli Provincial Ron Overend. This historic structure houses a wine cellar stocked with an astounding 270,000 bottles! Confrères toured Graycliff’s chocolate and cigar factories before descending into the catacomb-like rooms housing the wines. The fabulous lunch was enhanced by the presence of Graycliff Owner/Nassau Maître Rôtisseur Enrico Garzaroli and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Freddy Lightbourn. Heading back to Albany, attendees animatedly recounted their experiences and discussed where their next seagoing adventure might take them. G

BAILLIAGES

ALBANY

Feast of the Seven Fishes BY WILLIAM HARRIS, Bailli

A LATE CANCELLATION by an Albany restaurant had Albany Bailliage members scrambling to find another venue for their December 3, 2017 event. Café Capriccio Owner/Chef/Maître Rôtisseur Jim Rua rose to the occasion, orchestrating his version of “Festa Dei Sette Pesci” (Feast of the Seven Fishes). As its name indicates, this traditional Italian Christmas Eve meal is comprised only of fish courses. (Dessert is an exception, because let’s face it, anchovy pie just doesn’t work.) Café Capriccio is an enduring favorite in Albany due in large part to Chef Rua’s warmth and charm. Oh, and he can cook up a storm, too. After enjoying prosecco in the bar area, attendees were escorted to the Tuscan Room for his innovative interpretation of the festa. He was assisted by his son, Franco Rua—a talented chef in his own right. A progression of delightful, eye-pleasing courses tickled diners’ palates, and, by the end of the meal, they were as stuffed as the piquillo peppers bursting with nero di seppia that they had sampled as part of the antipasto. Following the (fish-less) dessert, Bailli Bill Harris presented pins to the servers and a Chaîne plaque to Chef Rua for his extraordinary effort. G

Executive Chef Nick Gulbrandsen.

Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Yono Purnomo and Owner/Chef/Maître Rôtisseur Jim Rua.

Café Capriccio team.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

AUSTIN

Chef Success Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon, Owner/Chef/Maître Rôtisseur Wayne Brooks, and Bailli Dennis Shay.

Dame Elizabeth Mannion and Maître Rôtisseur Steve Mannion.

Dame Lael Hasty, Chevalier Obie Hasty, Dame Linda Cook, and Dame Patsy Eppright.

Budding chefs benefit from the Chaîne’s Young Chefs Competition. Vice Chancelier-Argentier Charles Eppright, Lacs et des Bois Bailli Cheryl Kenny, and Lacs et des Bois Officier Steve Kenny.

Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon, San Antonio Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Judy Salomon, Chevalier Dennis Cross, and Dame Judy Cross.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

BY KATHY SHAY, Southwest Chargée de Presse Provincial

ON AUGUST 19, 2017, the Austin Bailliage dined at Owner/Chef Wayne Brooks’s new establishment, 827 Ray’s Kitchen + Cellar. Members were eager to congratulate the first-time restaurant owner, who credits his quick rise in the business in part to having been a finalist in the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon and San Antonio Vice Chargée de Presse Honoraire Judy Salomon were on hand to bestow the title of maître rôtisseur upon him. Doing so 827 Ray’s Kitchen + Cellar had personal meanAugust 19, 2017 ing for them; the San Antonio Bailliage BUTTER LETTUCE Texas Apples, Toasted Pecans, had sponsored Chef Strawberry-Black Pepper Vinaigrette Brooks for the competiFlowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2015 tion. Lacs et des Bois SALMON Bailli Cheryl Kenny Smoked Clove Essence, Tomatoes, Zucchini, Lemongrass Vinaigrette and Officier Steve Jean-Claude Boisset Bourgogne Kenny also joined the les Ursulines 2014 festivities. GRILLED FILET MIGNON The food and Wild Mushroom Ragù, Potato Dauphinoise, Cranberry Gastrique wine pairings exceeded Family JRG Merlot Columbia Valley 2012 all expectations. The CHOCOLATE-ORANGE NAPOLEON culinary hit of the Ramos Pinto Ruby Porto evening was lightly seared, cold smoked salmon—perfect for a summertime meal. The evening had all of the hallmarks of a successful Chaîne event—good food and wine enjoyed among good friends. However, Chef Brooks’s gleaming new restaurant served as an additional reminder that budding chefs benefit from the Chaîne’s Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition and that confrères reap the rewards when those chefs mature into maîtres rôtisseurs! G

BAILLIAGES

BONITA SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

A Tasting of Spanish Wines BY JOHN FLAMMANG, Southeast Chargé de Presse Provincial

VICE ECHANSON LOU Laucirica brought Bonita Mondiale members together at Artichoke & Company on February 28 for a tasting of Spanish wines. The presentation was led by Martin Cerdá, a WSET® Certified Wine Educator and the founder of the specialty importer Cerdá, Llanos y Cía. Mr. Cerdá’s grandfathers both came from Mallorca; one was a French-educated Artichoke & Company winemaker, the other a February 28, 2018 coffee and tea importer. CHILLED, CHARRED TOMATO SOUP His company’s mission, Bodegas Cerro la Barca Vegas he noted, is to curate Altas Blanco 2016 “New Spain” wines that OLIVE OIL-BRAISED GULF SHRIMP fit Florida’s eclectic Celler Pardas Pur Xarel-lo 2013 tastes and lifestyles. SPANISH SEAFOOD PAELLA “New Spain” Vega Tolosa Bobal Icon 2016 wines tend to be “not ROASTED PRIME LAMB CHOP overly extracted, Garlic-Bread Crumb Crust jammy, oaky, or noticeHeretat Mont Rubí Durona 2009 ably high in alcohol.” CITRUS POUND CAKE They are usually artiVanilla Bean Ice Cream, Lemon-Citrus Sauce sanal, small-scale, and Bodegues Ribas Sioneta 2016 made in a historic manner. While many of the wines that Mr. Cerdá imports date back to Phoenician times, they may be new to American palates. Noting that there are more than ten thousand varietals to explore, Mr. Cerdá encouraged attendees to “drink the rainbow.” Owner/Chef Brian Gorman provided delicious Spanish cuisine for attendees to enjoy with the wonderful sampling of Spanish wines. As tokens of thanks and appreciation, Mr. Cerdá was presented with an engraved Chaîne decanter and Chef Gorman received a Mondiale platter. G

Midge Simon, Chevalier Ed Simon, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Hon. Vito Soranno, Judy Soranno, Maureen Schmitt, and Vice Echanson Hon. Phil Schmitt.

Vice Echanson Lou Laucirica and Wine Importer/WSET® Certified Wine Educator Martin Cerdá.

Dan Robbins, Laura Robbins, Bailli Provincial Susan Vareschi, and Bailli William Vareschi.

Dame Karen McCaw, Owner/Chef Brian Gorman, and Vice Echanson Lou Laucirica.

Chevalier Alan Goodridge and Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Hon. Lacey King.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

BONITA

Welcome Back Brunch Vice Chargée de Missions Hon. Donna Flammang, Dame Erika Aron, Chevalier Alan Goodridge, and Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Hon. Lacey King.

Wessex Bailli Régional Janet Evins and Chambellan National Hon. Jeannette Boucher.

Susanne Pahl, Niedersachsen Vice Echanson Adreas Wiedemann, and Chicago Vice Chargé de Presse Hon. Jon DeMoss.

Chef Madison was featured on the Travel Channel’s “Great Chefs of the World.” Dame Nancy Byers, Cathy Walchak, and Dame Patt Suwyn.

Pastry Chef Michael Kitun, Executive Chef Michael Madsen, and Executive Sous-Chef Steve Matson.

Chevalier Gordon Graves, Karen McCaw, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Mark McCaw, and Dame Claudia Rivera.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

BY JOHN FLAMMANG, Southeast Chargé de Presse Provincial

A WATER VIEW enhances a venue’s ambiance, and the Naples Sailing & Yacht Club offers gorgeous views of Naples Bay. In this lovely setting on November 5, 2017, Bonita Bailliage members reunited after the summer hiatus and forged new bonds with the several European confrères in attendance. Denmark native Executive Chef Michael Madsen deserves much of the credit for this Naples Sailing & Yacht Club wonderful event. Prior November 5, 2017 to his current post, CEDAR-PLANKED ŌRA KING SALMON Chef Madsen worked Maple-Soy Glacé, Colusa Farms Greens, Champagne Vinaigrette at luxury resorts in the Mer Soleil Chardonnay 2014 United States as well as at fine hotels across the SEARED PORK BELLY Berry Compote, Belgian Waffle, globe. He was featured Poached Egg, Hollandaise Sauce on the Travel Channel’s Sean Minor Pinot Noir 2014 “Great Chefs of the FROZEN GRAN MARNIER SOUFFLÉ, World” and was choPUMPKIN TARTLET, CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE sen “Culinarian of the Year” by professional chefs of the American Culinary Federation. A mentor to many area chefs, he also serves as scholarship chair for the ACF. A culinary highlight of the brunch was Ōra King Salmon—a product native to New Zealand. Only a small number of salmon farms in the world produce this delicacy, which has only recently been introduced into the United States. Following the meal, Bailli William Vareschi presented Chef Madsen with an etched glass bowl and gave commemorative pins to individual staff members. G

BAILLIAGES

BOSTON

Basque Pintxo Meets the Pacific Rim

Elaine Drake Allen, Chevalier Douglas Allen, Cathy Mintzer, Baltimore Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Beverly Everett, and Baltimore Vice Echanson Hon. John Kocak.

BY MARSHALL L. BERENSON, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli

JULY IN BOSTON, and the streets are ours! Most of the university students have left for the summer, giving residents easy access to the best the city has to offer. The Cambridge restaurant Pagu was the Boston Pagu Bailliage’s destination July 19, 2017 on July 19, 2017. STEAK TARTARE Owner/Chef Ameztoi Rubentis Getariako Txakolina 2016 Tracy Chang is one of Boston’s newest star ZUCCHINI SALAD Granbazan Etiqueta Ámbar chefs. Her innovaAlbariño Rías Baixas 2015 tive crossover cuisine TORTILLA DE JOHN BUSH features Basque-style Castell d’Encus Ekam pintxos, Asian pan Costers del Segre 2013 noodles, sashimi, and CURRY CRAB CROQUETAS bao. Pagu’s warm, Division Villages L’Isle Verte Chenin Blanc 2016 modern décor, coupled with a state-of-the-art CEDAR CAMPFIRE BLACK COD Joan d’Anguera Altaroses open kitchen, creates Montsant 2014 an inviting and excitSQUID INK OYSTER BAO ing eatery. Johanneshof Reinisch St. Laurent 2013 After a stint at COCONUT SORBET the award-winning O Molino Real MR Málaga Ya restaurant, Chef Chang went to Le Cordon Bleu Paris for pastry training. Next was a year of stage under the tutelage of Michelin-starred Chef Martín Berasategui, who was so impressed with her that he accorded her a special apprentice position. She eventually returned to Cambridge, where, in January 2017, she opened Pagu— the name reflecting her love of her pug dogs. Hot, rainy weather precluded an outdoor reception, but, undeterred, attendees mingled in the communal dining area before moving to a private space, where they enjoyed Chef Chang’s inventive cuisine served with unusual Basque wines. Vive la Chaîne! G

Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Marshall Berenson and Owner/Chef Tracy Chang.

Vice Conseiller Culinaire Rabih Jaber and Chevalier Stephen Samuels.

Ella Saunders, Vice Chargé de Missions Todd Saunders, and Jessica Saunders.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

BOSTON

Hot Time at a Hot Spot BY MARSHALL L. BERENSON, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli

Boston Bailliage members.

Arthur Schleifer, Chef Rôtisseur Rebecca Alssid, and Mary Beaudry.

Shiobanne Olivero Vergara, Fraliza Gianniodis-Castillo, and Solima Rivera Colon.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

THE BOSTON BAILLIAGE’S fifty-first season was focused on the hottest, best new restaurants, so a trip to Little Donkey was a must! James Beard Awardwinning Owners/Chefs Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette—of Toro, Uni, and Coppa fame—have created an international tapas experience with dishes that span the world and are packing in crowds at Cambridge’s über-hip Central Square. With seats at Little Donkey in high demand, the Boston Chapter opted for the more casual format of a dîner amical on August 16, 2017. There were spots for sixteen lucky diners. At the reception, along with copious quantities of local oysters, attendees sipped sparkling wine and cocktails from the restaurant’s extensive curated cocktail list. The drink called “The One in a Grapefruit...with Stuff We Really Like” was just that—a grapefruit filled with fruity, liquid goodness. Diners sat at the communal tables near the entrance. The lively conversation continued and the shared plates were delivered at a steady pace. This author lives down the street from Little Donkey and will testify that the chocolate-chip cookie-dough dessert, served on a mixer beater, is indeed that delectable treat that many of us remember from childhood. Vive la Chaîne! G

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY MARSHALL BERENSON AND KATHY LASHAY BERENSON

BOSTON

Spring Returns Triumphant BY MARSHALL L. BERENSON, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli

BOSTON BAILLIAGE MEMBERS waited until after Harvard’s commencement, when things had settled down in the “Square,” to hold their spring fête. June 4, 2017 was the perfect day for confrères to celebrate the season at the Italian gem Benedetto. What was once old is new again. There are restaurants with Benedetto both spirit and roots, June 4, 2017 and Boston is blessed with many such places. ANTIPASTI Donna Olimpia 1898 Vermentino 2015 The structure formerly housing an Italian stalSPELT CAVATELLI Fava Beans, Ramps, Almond Pesto wart has been reborn STROZZAPRETI as Benedetto. Located Smoked Rabbit Sugo, Sweet Peas, Tomato, Prosciutto in the Charles Hotel Prunotto Occhetti Nebbiolo in Harvard Square, it d’Alba DOC 2015 is the newest restauROASTED VEAL PORTERHOUSE rant from Owner/Chef Sweetbreads, Asparagus, Morels, Madeira Michael Pagliarini. Molettieri Irpinia Aglianico DOC 2011 Chef Pagliarini’s RHUBARB-RICOTTA BOMBOLONI first outlet, Giulia, AND STRAWBERRY CHEESECAKE is an expression of Saracco Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2015 rustic Italian cooking; Benedetto offers an exciting journey through the diverse regions of Italian cuisine. It rates with both university students and local gastronomes, and the spirit of Julia Child feels strong, as Benedetto’s predecessor was one of her Cambridge haunts. A table there can be hard to secure, but when asked about hosting a Boston Chaîne dinner, Chef Pagliarini asked how soon confrères wanted to come in! This event opened with a sparkling reception featuring delicious sfizi, followed by a parade of Italian specialties, paired with extraordinary wines from across the Apennine Peninsula. G

Vice Chargé de Presse Richard DeAgazio, Margaret McAveeney, Amal Salloum, Rita Aoude, and Maître Hôtelier El-Sayed Saleh.

Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Marshall Berenson and Owner/Chef Michael Pagliarini.

Grand Officier Azmi Hajjaj and Grand Officier Delores La Verna Hajjaj.

Chevalier Constantine DeLollis, Officier Kathy LaShay Berenson, Kerry Rosengarten, Vice Chargé de Missions Daniel Rosengarten, Margaret McAveeney, Vice Chargé de Presse Richard DeAgazio, and Edward Cunningham.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

BUFFALO SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

The Widows of Champagne BY SHARON OSGOOD, Vice Echanson

David Eifrig, Elizabeth Griffiths, and New York Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Andy Cappuccino.

Toi Buscaglia and Dame Therese Vita.

Vice Echanson Sharon Osgood.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

BUFFALO MONDIALE MEMBERS enjoyed a special champagne tasting at Owner/Chef Mike Andrzejewski’s SeaBar on November 30, 2017. “Widows of Champagne” was the event’s fascinating theme. First up was Pommery Brut Royal N.V. This champagne house was established in 1856 by Alexandre Pommery, who died two years later, leaving his widow, Louise, to carry on. By 1890, she had grown production from 45,000 to 2.25 million bottles. She was also the first to produce a dry brut wine instead of the traditional sweet. Mathilde Emilie Laurent-Perrier’s husband was killed in the early 1900s. She guided the business through the World War I years, returning it to success. Today, the winery is considered a leader in the international market. The group enjoyed a Laurent-Perrier rosé. The pièce de résistance was Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Brut. The Queen of the Widows was Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin Clicquot, born in 1777. Her husband, a wine broker and vintner, encouraged Barbe-Nicole to learn about the wine-making business, and, upon his death in 1805, she took over. She is best known for expanding the market, branding, and her development (in secrecy) of remuage, resulting in clean, pure wine. Barbe-Nicole was involved in the business until her death in 1866, at the age of eighty-nine. G

BAILLIAGES

BUFFALO

Nothing Is as It Appears BY KAREN SPERRAZZA, Vice Chargée de Presse

AT ROOST RESTAURANT on September 17, 2017, Buffalo Bailliage members were awed by the culinary wizardry of Chef Paula Danilowicz and sleights of hand of magician Garrett Thomas. An internationally known performer and consultant to David Blaine, Thomas entertained confrères with card, coin, and ring manipulations as they sipped Roost champagne and nibbled September 17, 2017 charcuterie. The quesCORN-TRUFFLE SOUP tion “How did he do Catena Appellation Tupungato that?” echoed throughChardonnay 2015 out the space, as pizzas, CHEESE TERRINE perfectly charred in the Borgogno No Name 2012 wood-burning stone PEACH TORTELLINI oven, were devoured Jaffurs Viognier 2016 and the seating for dinMILANESE BRAISED SHORT RIBS ner got underway. Robert Biale Like Father Like Son 2012 The magic conCARROT CAKE tinued in the kitchen Freedom Run Apple Jack at the hands of Chef Paula and her brigade. Members were dazzled by unusual dishes masquerading as classic favorites. Owner/Head Chef Martin Danilowicz, who is Chef Paula’s brother, opened Roost in 2016 as a place where creativity is honored and change is good. He wants each visit to Roost to be a unique experience and each plate to contain an element of surprise. With its rustic-urban vibe, wall-sized rooster mural, and open kitchen, Roost is certainly a place where diners can relax. The proverbial chickens won’t be alone when they come home to Roost. Satisfied Buffalo Bailliage members are sure to join them. G

Officier Edward Simmons, Dame Judy Van Niekerk, Chevalier “Tiny” Van Niekerk, and Liz Simmons.

Vice Chargé de Missions Hon. Guelfo Canali and Chevalier Kevin Canali.

Toi Buscaglia, Vice Chargée de Presse Karen Sperrazza, and Dame Therese Vita.

Iva Sillart, New York Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Andrew Cappuccino, and Chevalier Doug Sillart.

Dame Heather Dwyer and Vice Chargé de Missions E. Carey Cantwell.

Russ Salvatore, Chevalier Tom Hyde, and Dame Martha Hyde.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY LORENZO TASSONE

CHICAGO

Evening of the Big Cs BY STEPHANIE BLASER, Vice Chargée de Presse

Chevalier Jamie Garard III, Dame Linda Garard, Chevalier Kevin Massey, and Chevalier John Blaser.

Co-Proprietor/Maître Rôtisseur Traiteur John Calihan and Co-Proprietor Nash Calihan.

Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Nadia Gould, Officier Ethel Gofen, and Carol Beilfuss.

Vice Chargé de Missions Hon. Elan Jacoby, Bailli Beth Roldan, and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Robert Beilfuss.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

THE CHICAGO BAILLIAGE’S season opener on September 18, 2017 was titled “An Evening of the Big Cs: Champagne and Caviar at Calihan.” The three Cs just as easily could have stood for conviviality, connoisseurs, and comfort food. Returning from the summer break, members reconnected at Gallery 1028, located in a converted warehouse on Goose Island. At the reception, caviar served three ways was accompanied by Veuve Clicquot la Grande Dame Brut Champagne 2006. Chevalier Marshall Goldin demonstrated the proper technique for opening a champagne bottle with a saber, after which Vice Chargée de Presse Honoraire Nadia Gould educated attendees on the various types of caviar and the qualities to look for in the best caviar. Her experience with the delicacy goes back to her childhood in Russia. “I actually hated caviar when I was little,” she joked. Bailli Beth Roldan then invited attendees to partake of a family-style feast, paired with favorite bottles from the chapter’s cellar. Co-Proprietor/Maître Rôtisseur Traiteur John Calihan, whose team catered the event, developed the farm-to-table menu to highlight the local harvest. “We’re lucky to have all sorts of root vegetables that are just coming into availability in Chicago,” he noted. G

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY LORENZO TASSONE

CHICAGO SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Mezcal 101 at Quiote BY TODD ARKEBAUER, Vice Echanson

THE CHICAGO MONDIALE obtained exclusive access to Quiote—one of the city’s hottest new establishments—for its season opener on September 5, 2017. Quiote pays homage to the agave plant, making it the ideal setting to learn about mezcal—the smoky Mexican spirit crafted from this succulent. The evening had a strong educational component. Manager Justin Fox gave a presentation on mezcal, which covered topics such as cultivation, production, fermentation, and distillation. Confrères then tasted different mezcals. First impressions were of smoke and earth, obtained by roasting the agaves, followed by notes of caramel and fresh greens; depending on the agave species used, other flavors such as citrus, mint, vanilla, and honey were evidenced. Partner/Executive Chef Dan Salls created a modern Mexican menu showcasing local ingredients and highlighted by a Slagel Family Farm dry-aged rib eye. Mezcal-based cocktails and Mexican wines were served side by side with the meal to enable attendees to determine their favorite pairings. Vice Echanson Todd Arkebauer and Bailli Beth Roldan presented a framed Chaîne plate to the Quiote team, including Business Partner Paul Blasco and Hospitality Director/Professionnel de la Table Daniel Drake, who was instrumental in orchestrating the successful event. Confrères left with an enhanced understanding of mezcal and its global rise in popularity. G

Bailli Beth Roldan, Vice Echanson Todd Arkebauer, Hospitality Director/Professionnel de la Table Daniel Drake, Manager Justin Fox, Business Partner Paul Blasco, and Chef de Cuisine Ross Henke.

Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Christopher Koetke, Kauai/Oahu Bailli Hon. Mark Monoscalco, and Conseiller Gastronomique National Mon Roldan.

Dame Evelyn Arkebauer, Dame Shari Massey, and Bailli Beth Roldan.

Kauai/Oahu Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Mirella Monoscalco and Vice Chargée de Missions Beth Lang.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY LORENZO TASSONE

CHICAGO

Winter Respite at Somerset BY STEPHANIE BLASER, Vice Chargée de Presse

Events Chef Ryan Maher.

Vice Chargée de Presse Stephanie Blaser and Vice Chargé de Médias Sociaux John Blaser.

Chef Rôtisseur Emily Adler and Professionnel du Vin Jeremy Adler.

Dame Pauline Maki, Vice Chargée de Missions Wanda Grant, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Samuel Tepper, and Janett Cordoves.

Vice Chargée de Missions Beth Lang.

CHAINEUS.ORG

Dame Kate Kestnbaum, Vice Chargé de Missions James Garard III, and Officier Ethel Gofen.

WINTER 2018

ON JANUARY 15, Chicago Bailliage members braved blustery weather to enjoy the warm hospitality of Somerset restaurant. One of the newest offerings from the BOKA Restaurant Group, Somerset is helmed by Partner/Chef Lee Wolen, who is also executive chef of the group’s Michelin-starred BOKA restaurant. Chef Wolen and Events Chef Ryan Somerset Maher created a comJanuary 15, 2018 forting four-course KALE-BRUSSELS SPROUTS SALAD meal that was served Roasted Grape, Cashew, Pecorino, Mustard Vinaigrette family style. Offering CHARRED BROCCOLI two plates per course, Hazelnut, Parmesan, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette the chefs included Françoise Rousset-Martin Savagnin dishes that have Vignes aux Dames 2012 become synonymous SLOW-COOKED SALMON with Somerset’s growBrussels Sprouts, Walnuts, Grapes ing success: smoked WHOLE ROASTED CHICKEN Polenta, Garlic Sausage, Delicata Squash beet tartare (yes, beet, Domaine Leroy Bourgogne 2005 not beef!) with cumin CHEF’S SELECTION OF SWEET BITES yogurt and impossibly Château Coutet Barsac moist, whole roasted chicken with polenta and delicata squash. Another standout was the kale and Brussels sprouts salad. “I don’t usually like kale,” noted Dame Natalia Camilletti, “but I love this salad. I can’t stop eating it!” Collectively, the savory courses were a true celebration of seasonal ingredients, each featuring some combination of root vegetables, hearty greens, nuts, and late-season fruits. Dinner closed with a trio of “Somersweets” from award-winning Pastry Chef Meg Galus. As a final touch of true Midwestern hospitality, attendees received to-go boxes filled with selections from the evening’s menu to enjoy the next day. G

BAILLIAGES

Annual Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition

PHOTOS BY SUE FLISCHEL

CINCINNATI

Chevalier Shannon Read, Chevalier Don Buckley, Bailli George Elliott, and Vice Chargé de Missions Clint Haynes.

BY GRAIG SMITH, Vice Chargé de Presse

THE CINCINNATI BAILLIAGE held its annual Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition on November 5, 2017 at the Midwest Culinary Institute at Cincinnati State. The contestants vied for the opportunity to advance to the Midwest Regional Competition. The “ringer” mystery-basket ingredient was a Mexican marigold, which few of the young chefs had ever seen. The lead tasting judge was MCI Culinary Professor/Chef Rôtisseur Alan Neace. Chef Jean-Robert de Cavel, Paul Parks, and Laura Lindall also served as tasting judges. Kiyahnna Bell, Dee Byrd, and Gad Asher won first, second, and third place, respectively, and were the guests of honor at that evening’s awards dinner. The celebration was held at Postmark Restaurant, whose postal antiques and prints pay homage to the building’s former function as a post office. Each member brought a bottle of wine to share. The menu featured such exquisite offerings as goat cheese brûlée, beef short ribs, and hazelnut-chocolate torte. Vice Chargé de Missions Clint Haynes, Vice Chargée de Missions Carmen Parks, Chef Neace, and Bailli George Elliott worked tirelessly to continue this annual event, which promotes up-and-coming culinary talent in Cincinnati. Members were pleased to participate in such a worthy event. G

Winner Kiyahnna Bell and MCI Culinary Professor/ Chef Rôtisseur Alan Neace.

Gad Asher (third place), Kiyahnna Bell (winner), and Dee Byrd (second place).

Chambellan Provincial Irwin Weinberg and Chargé de Presse Provincial Lee Flischel.

Carol Monnin, Meredythe Daley, and Gloria Uziel.

Amy Eddy, Vice Chargé de Presse Graig Smith, Janet Smith, and Professionnel du Vin Debbie Dent.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY SUE FLISCHEL

CINCINNATI SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

The Americas and Beyond BY GRAIG SMITH, Vice Chargé de Presse

Vice Echanson Mary Horn, Partner/Manager Michael Forgus, and Vice Chargée de Missions Carmen Parks.

Vice Echanson Hon. Mike Monnin, Janet Smith, and Vice Chargé de Presse Graig Smith.

Barbara Smith, Jack Smith, and Jeane Elliott.

Vice Echanson Mary Horn and U.S. Sales Manager/Canada and Caribbean Export Manager Matt Hobbs.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

Bailli George Elliott and Chargé de Presse Provincial Lee Flischel.

THE CINCINNATI MONDIALE held a much-anticipated Paul Hobbs wine event on January 22 at Ohio Valley Wine & Beer. Vice Echanson Mary Horn and Vice Echanson Honoraire Mike Monnin, with assistance from Bailli George Elliott, organized the event. The guest speaker, Matt Hobbs, is the brother of famed winemaker Paul Hobbs. Matt Hobbs is the company’s U.S. sales manager and the export manager for Canada and the Caribbean. At the reception, attendees sipped Crocus Malbec de Cahors 2012. As they took their seats at long tables, wine flights were placed elegantly before them. Matt Hobbs regaled the group with stories about growing up with Paul and their nine siblings. While enjoying these amusing anecdotes, members sampled chardonnay, pinot noir, and cabernet sauvignon from the Hobbs California vineyards and malbec from Mr. Hobbs’s ventures in Argentina. Funky’s Catering Events Partner/Manager Michael Forgus and his team prepared a sumptuous buffet. The jewel of the evening, Paul Hobbs Nathan Coombs Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, paired beautifully with churrasco-style filet. With top-quality wines and wellcrafted food enjoyed with good friends, attendees unanimously agreed that it had been the perfect Mondiale gathering. G

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY ELLEN ROSENBERG AND PERCY NIKORA

DELAWARE VALLEY

Delectable Dinner at Danlu Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Matthew Karstetter and Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Ellen Rosenberg.

BY KATHLEEN BOYLE, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON THE CORNER of 36th and Market streets in Philadelphia, a new building is home to an even newer restaurant, Danlu. With its copper- and silver-embossed panels, walnut millwork, and bold artwork, the twostory, open-plan venue exudes warmth. The concept for Danlu emerged after Co-Owner/ Philadelphia Maître Rôtisseur Michael Wei invited Co-Owner/Chef Danlu Patrick Feury on a trip February 11, 2018 to his native Taiwan. GUINEA HEN CONSOMMÉ Marinated Mushrooms, While strolling through Bok Choy, Garlic Crisp the markets, they M. Chapoutier Belleruche Blanc experienced the sights Côtes-du-Rhône 2016 and aromas unique SCALLOP-MUSSEL-PRAWN DUMPLING Leeks, Lemongrass to Taiwan. Voss Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Despite the many restaurants in the TAIWANESE PORK SAUSAGE Crispy Brussels Sprouts, Garlic, Chilies greater Philadelphia Paola Lanzavecchia Seta Barbera area, Maître Rôtisseur d’Alba Superiore 2014 Wei and Chef Feury XI’AN LAMB SHOULDER AND observed that very FIVE-SPICE RACK OF LAMB Vegetable Rice, Mint-Chile Sauce few served Taiwanese Ridge Lytton Springs 2013 cuisine. They opened Danlu to introduce dinMANGO SORGET FRIED DONUT ers to the subtle, yet Domaine du Chatellier Coteaux du Layon 2015 complex flavor combinations inspired by the Taiwanese markets. At Danlu on February 11, the Delaware Valley Bailliage experienced these exciting flavor profiles firsthand. Pairing wines with Asian cuisine may seem like a daunting task, but Chargé de Presse Provincial Percy Nikora and his committee perfectly matched the sophisticated preparations with wines from France, Italy, and California. The highly rated Westmalle Trappist Ale Dubbel went particularly well with the spicy appetizers. At evening’s end, attendees showed their appreciation for Maître Rôtisseur Wei and Chef Feury by breaking into hearty applause. G

Dame Nicole Thorne and Carol Dershaw.

Chevalier Herman Fala and Helen Fala.

Wendy Salerno and Chevalier Franco Salerno.

Chevalier Stuart Dershaw, Co-Owner/Philadelphia Maître Rôtisseur Michael Wei, and Officier Don Robbins.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS ELLEN ROSENBERG AND PERCY NIKORA

DELAWARE VALLEY

Table at the Farm BY KATHLEEN BOYLE, Vice Chargée de Presse

Maître Restaurateur Ann Marie Solomon, Dory Solomon, and Dame Kathy Martinides.

Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Matthew Karstetter and Executive Chef Anthony Colontonio.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

AFTER READING THE Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan, Wyebrook Farm Owner Dean Carlson wondered how he could help diners connect with the “wheres” and “hows” of their food supply. Two key elements were clear: create a permanent agricultural preserve to support sustainable farming and make it a family-owned, family-run farm on some of the best farmland in the United States. On September 10, 2017—a spectacular autumn day—the Delaware Wyebrook Farm Valley Bailliage gathSeptember 10, 2017 ered in the dining room CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE overlooking Wyebrook Preserved Green Tomatoes, Tropea Red Onion Farm. The aromas, Domaine de la Pinsonnière textures, and flavors Vouvray Demi-Sec 2015 of Executive Chef BLACK GARLIC TORTELLINI Anthony Colontonio’s Charred Onion Ricotta, Porcini Consommé delicious feast reflected Joseph Phelps Freestone the riches generated by Chardonnay 2010 the farm. Diners’ excite HERITAGE PORK CONFIT ment was palpable Purple Potato, Braised Sauerkraut as they got their first Big Hill Ciderworks Barrel Aged Reserve Cider 2017 glimpse of each entic ing course. HERITAGE BONELESS NEW YORK STRIP Board members Robuchon Potatoes, Beet Bordelaise then asked Chambellan Hammeken Cellars Tosalet Priorat Vinyes Velles 2014 Provincial/Bailli Matthew Karstetter to PUMPKIN MOUSSE Gingerbread Crumb, Salted Caramel join them at the front of Sonoma-Cutrer Late Harvest the room. Vice Chargée Chardonnay 2012 de Presse Honoraire Ellen Rosenberg detailed the positive impact Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Karstetter has had on the chapter, noting the entire membership’s gratitude for his efforts. The officers presented him with a leather wine carrier as a token of thanks. As the sun set, attendees shared their thoughts about the event and complimented the staff. Many began planning their next trip to Wyebrook Farm. G

BAILLIAGES

DENVER MILE HIGH

Late-Summer Harvest Dinner BY LESLEY MIQUEL, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE DENVER MILE High Bailliage’s highly anticipated farm-to-table event on August 20, 2017 began with a tour of Black Cat Farm, just outside of Boulder. On their certified organic farm, Co-Owner/Chef Eric Skokan and Co-Owner Jill Skokan grow 250 heirloom and heritage cultivated varieties while also raising sheep, pigs, chickens, turkey, and geese. A daily harvest of such Black Cat Bistro bounty meant that the August 20, 2017 menu wasn’t finalized CHILLED CELERY SOUP until the day of the Salomon Undhof Wieden & event, but it was decidBerg Grüner Veltliner 2015 edly worth the wait! SCALLOP QUENELLE After the tour, Fried Green Tomato, Yogurt confrères headed to Damien Coquelet Chiroubles Gamay Beaujolais 2015 Black Cat Bistro. At the reception, they nibbled ROASTED MULEFOOT PORK Corn, Sweet Potatoes appetizers made with Matthieu Barret Petit Ours fresh-from-the-field Syrah Côtes du Rhône 2015 ingredients and sipped CUSHMAN FARMS ANGUS BEEF Juvé y Camps Brut Rosé Beets, Haricots Verts Matthiasson Cabernet Sauvignon Pinot Noir N.V. Napa Valley 2014 Each dinner GRILLED PEACHES course outdid the previGinger Cake, Butter Pecan Ice Cream ous one, making for a Juvé y Camps Brut Rosé Pinot Noir N.V. truly exceptional dining experience. An unexpected delight was the customized pairing of nonalcoholic beverages with each dish. Adding to the enjoyment of Mulefoot pork was a virgin cocktail of shishito peppers, muddled blueberries, basil, and lemon juice, with a dusting of cocoa. Wine drinkers and nondrinkers looked forward to sampling the evening’s libations with equal glee. Denver Mile High members were pleased to be joined by Argentier National Honoraire Rufus Cressend and New Orleans Bailli Yvette Cressend. G

Denver Mile High Bailliage members.

Bobbie Kugeler and Bailli Hon. James Kugeler.

Maître Hôtelier Peter Wann and Maître Hôtelier Kristin House Wann.

Farm to table. Dame Silvia Cano de Bedout and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Jean Louis de Bedout.

Olinga Hargreaves, Vice Chargée de Missions Lois Paul, John Hargreaves, New Orleans Bailli Yvette Cressend, and Argentier National Hon. Rufus Cressend.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

GARDEN STATE

Keeping the Summer Alive BY VICTOR S. SLOAN, Vice Chargé de Presse

Echanson Provincial/Bailli George Staikos, Christi Staikos, David Burgoon, Sandy Burgoon, Kelly Rickman, Nancy Fenimore, and Keri Rickman.

Dame Karen Taylor and Chevalier John Adamovics.

Linda Muller and Chancelier Délégué Hon., Académie de Gastronomie Brillat-Savarin Georges Muller.

Sandra Gong and Christi Staikos.

Vice Chargé de Presse Victor Sloan, Suzanne Dufresne, Bailli Hon. Claude Dufresne, and Dame Maureen Keegan-Renner.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

GARDEN STATE BAILLIAGE members met at the Blue Bottle Café in Hopewell, New Jersey, on September 17, 2017, with the hope of “keeping the summer alive.” Husband-and-wife Co-Owners Aaron and Rory Philipson are chef and pastry chef, respectively. Both are New Jersey natives who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America. Aaron has worked in such emiThe Blue Bottle Café nent establishments September 17, 2017 as La Côte Basque, SEARED DAYBOAT SCALLOPS Kinkead’s, the Ryland Corn Succotash, Mushrooms, Inn, and Rat’s. After Brown Butter a short stint cookPAN-ROASTED LOCAL SWORDFISH ing, Rory moved into Manhattan Clam Chowder pastries and service. BRAISED BUFFALO SHORT RIBS She honed her frontPeppers, Cipollini Onions, Gremolata of-the-house skills at WHITE CHOCOLATE AND Kinkead’s and Todd RASPBERRY NAPOLEON Rosewater Anglaise English’s Olives, both in Washington, D.C. The couple’s shared passion for local ingredients was strongly evident at this event. One of the appetizers spotlighted New York State goat cheese, and the three principal courses featured proteins from New Jersey. Attendees brought wines to share, and Echanson Provincial/Bailli George Staikos’s guidance on the offerings led to many interesting pairings to sample. Especially noteworthy were the Old Chatham Sheepherding Company’s camembert with L’Aventure Optimus 2011 and the white chocolate-raspberry Napoleon with Castello Banfi Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG 2016. The evening concluded with a question-and-answer session with the Philipsons and the introduction of the three baillis honoraire in attendance. G

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER RECKORD

JAMAICA SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

A Croatian Escape at Stush in the Bush BY KERRI-ANNE RECKORD, Vice Chargée de Presse

NOVEMBER 5, 2017 was a day to remember for Jamaica Mondiale members who ventured into the hills of St. Ann to the community of Bamboo. The group’s destination was Stush in the Bush, an organic, sustainable farm owned and operated by married couple Stush in the Bush Christopher and Lisa November 5, 2017 Binns. In this context, TOMATO BISQUE “stush” in Jamaican Vina Belje Pinot Crni 2016 parlance means “classy, ZIONITES FARM GREENS, RICOTTA fancy, stylish,” and SALATA, AND CUCUMBER SALAD that’s exactly what the Stush Mango-Passion Vinaigrette Binns have created at JERKED CARROT STEAK Zionites Farm. Chèvre Cheesecake, Stush Tomato Marmalade Stush in the Bush Vina Belje Chardonnay Premium 2015 produces incredibly “CHARCOAL” FETTUCCINE fresh fruits, vegetables, Mushroom Cream Sauce, and herbs. Gracious Stush Blow Fyah Drizzle Vina Laguna Terra Rossa 2015 host Lisa Binns invited arriving members APPLETON-SOAKED RAISIN FRITULE Stush Passion Butter and into the gazebo, Chocolate-Coconut Sauce where they enjoyed Iločki Podrumi Pinot Bijeli 2016 two delightful beverages—basil-cucumber lemonade and Seville orangeade. The appetizers of plantain chips and yam croquettes were served with guacamole, chimichurri sauce, and Stush’s signature Blow Fyah® Scotch bonnet pepper sauce, all made with ingredients from the farm or sourced locally. Vice Echanson Christopher Reckord explained that with lunch, the group would explore Croatian wines, as he believed they were particularly well suited to Stush’s vegetarian fare. Heartfelt thanks and praise go to Lisa and Chris Binns and their team for what they’ve created—the location, cuisine, ambiance, and service make for an extraordinary experience! G

Jamaica Mondiale members.

Kayla Hanson and Co-Owner/Chef Christopher Binns.

Celeste Gordon, Ruth Mitchell, and CoOwner/Chef Lisa Binns.

Chevalier James Lechler and Vice Chargée de Presse KerriAnne Reckord.

Dame Jackie Lechler Stewart, Melanie Schwapp, Katia Dehring, and Michelle Myers Mayne.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER RECKORD

JAMAICA SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Evoi Evening BY KERRI-ANNE RECKORD, Vice Chargée de Presse

Dame Lisa Hogarth, Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Derek Elder, Dame Kristina Kerr, Vice Chargé de Missions Matthew Hogarth, and Vice Chargée de Presse Kerri-Anne Reckord.

Officier Maître Rôtisseur Colin Hylton and Dame Gia Abraham.

Alexcia Gray Ludlow and Proprietor/Winemaker Nigel Ludlow.

Grace Nash, Chevalier Michael Lewis, and Vice Chargée de Presse Kerri-Anne Reckord.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

IT IS ALWAYS a treat for lovers of wine and crafted beverages to meet the creators of their favored libations. Jamaica Mondiale members got just that opportunity on January 13 at a tasting of Evoi Wines at the home of Dame de la Chaîne Lisa Hogarth and Vice Chargé de Missions Matthew Hogarth. Evoi is an award-winning boutique winery located in Margaret River, Australia. Proprietor/ Winemaker Nigel Ludlow has a special connection to Jamaica Hogarth Residence as he was there for his January 13, 2018 nuptials to Alexcia TANGERINE-CARROT SOUP Gray. He kindly joined Greek Yogurt, Codfish Crostini, Jamaica Mondiale Citrus-Braised Octopus Evoi Sauvignon Blanc Semillon members for an evening Margaret River 2015 of superb food and DUCK SPRING ROLL wine before heading Sweet Corn, Red Stripe home to Australia. Beer-Hoisin Drizzle Evoi Reserve Chardonnay The word “evoi” Margaret River 2013 refers to the impasCHARRED PORK BELLY sioned cries of rapture Japanese Miso, Roasted that the ancient followPink Lady Apples Evoi Cabernet Sauvignon ers of Bacchus made at Margaret River 2014 their rituals. One can APPLEWOOD-SMOKED BACONthus imagine attendees’ WRAPPED SHRIMP delight as they sampled Jasmine-Coconut Rice Brick Evoi Reserve The Satyr Evoi wines paired Margaret River 2012 with the gastronomic PASSION FRUIT GELÉE AND creations of renowned MARZIPAN-FILLED ORBS chef Officier Maître Rôtisseur Colin Hylton. Winemaker Ludlow started Evoi with two barrels of chardonnay, growing it into one of Australia’s top wineries in just over ten years. As he guided attendees through the complexities of each wine, they relished the opportunity to engage with the “maestro” himself. A wonderful time was had by all. G

BAILLIAGES

KAUAI/OAHU

A JazzFilled Holiday Celebration BY CELIAMARIE MOORE, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE KAUAI/OAHU BAILLIAGE chose the Moana Surfrider, a Westin Resort & Spa as the magnificent venue at which to welcome the holiday season on December 1, 2017. The evening was pure magic. Attendees arrived through the porte cochere, then Beachhouse at the strolled along the Moana Surfrider oceanside veranda to December 1, 2017 the Beachhouse—a LOBSTER ROULADE grand salon reminiscent Yuzu Aspic, Tomato, Avocado Ponzi Vineyards Chardonnay of a bygone era. Reserve 2001 Two tables spanFOIE GRAS ning the length of the Pineapple, Macadamia Nut, Lilikoi, salon were arranged Whipped Coconut, Brioche Domaine des Petits Quarts with white and silver Bonnezeaux 2001 place settings. Bouquets FRIED QUAIL of white roses and starBlack Truffle Waffle, Maple Demi-Glace gazer lilies dressed for Melville Estate Block M Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013 the season served as centerpieces. A tremenVENISON WELLINGTON dous Christmas tree Drew Family Cellars Perli Vineyard Syrah 2013 occupied one end of the room, while mellow CHESTNUT MONT BLANC Orange Sable, Vanilla Meringue jazz issued from the other, played by local celebrity Mike Lewis and his lively band. Bailli John Magauran announced the induction of new members by Chambellan Provincial Judith Kellogg. Diners then delighted in the parade of exquisite courses created by Chef de Cuisine David Lukela and his awardwinning team. The musicians played softly during the meal, inspiring couples to display their best dance moves. The tempo quickened, and the floor was soon full of confrères rocking to one fabulous tune after another. All in attendance agreed that the evening was the perfect kick-off to the holiday season in Hawaii. G

H/PI confrères.

Chevalier Michael DeLuca, Dame Anne DeLuca, Chevalier Walter James, and Professionnel du Vin Tiffany James.

Bailli John Magauran, Chevalier Mark Stitham, and Chevalier Rich Turbin.

Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Kristine Altwies, Robert Carpenter, and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Hon. Kusuma Cooray.

Chevalier Rich Turbin, Sally Clemens, and James Clemens.

Chevalier Terry Vernoy, Dame Anne DeLuca, Palm Springs Officier Lucille Boston, Dame Bobbette Johnson, Dame Gladys Vernoy, and Joanna Ishmurzina.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY MIRELLA MONOSCALCO

KAUAI/OAHU SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Holiday Creations BY JUDITH KELLOGG, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chambellan Provincial

Bailli John Magauran, Bailli Hon. Kathryn Nicholson, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Mirella Monoscalco, Dame Dara Sage, Chevalier Vince Sage, and Vice Chargé de Missions Kelly Sanders.

Chevalier Vince Sage and Bailli John Magauran.

Bailli Provincial Hon. Bruce Liebert and Vice Chargé de Missions Kelly Sanders.

Bailli Hon. Kathryn Nicholson and Chevalier George Norcross.

The fun continues.

Mark Sage, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Mirella Monoscalco, Cheryl Dickerson, Bailli Hon. Mark Monoscalco, and Bailli Provincial Maurice Nicholson.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

IN THE QUEST to experience the finest wines and best cuisine, confrères sometimes forget that another mission of the Chaîne is to enjoy crafted beverages. On November 9, 2017, Kauai/Oahu Bailli John Magauran reminded members of his chapter’s Mondiale contingent about those pleasures with a cocktail extravaganza at Morton’s, The Steakhouse in Honolulu. Three talented mixologists each produced three cocktails suitable for a fall fête. Some were updated classics, tweaked with flavors such as smoked rosemary, pumpkin syrup, and cinnamon and cloves, while others were original concoctions with such names as “Candy Cane Cocktail” and “Sparkling Cinnamon Apple.” The libations were a gift that kept on giving, as attendees were given the recipes to take home for future use. In the private event room, festive wreaths and poinsettias prepared celebrants’ spirits for the upcoming holidays. Lavish hors d’oeuvres flowed throughout the evening; oysters, escargot in puff pastry, and baby lamb chops were among the biggest crowd-pleasers. As a cap to the evening, attendees voted on their favorite cocktail, which would be featured, along with the champagne, at the chapter’s holiday gala. The winner? Apparently, Bailli Magauran wanted to keep confrères in suspense. The fun continues! G

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY STEVE KENNY

LACS ET DES BOIS

Golden Colors of Autumn BY DAVID GILLEY, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique

THE TEXAS AIR finally had an autumn nip on November 4, 2017—just in time for the Lacs et des Bois Bailliage’s fall event at Current restaurant in the Westin Hotel at The Woodlands. Summer has a way of hanging on in the Houston area, but this event was nothing but cool. Current’s fabulous setting affords views of the Woodlands Waterway and Current Waterway Square. The Westin at The Woodlands Executive Chef Richard November 4, 2017 Mendoza and his team BURRATA SALAD designed a seasonally Heirloom Tomatoes, Lemon Oil, White Balsamic Vinegar inspired, four-course Copain Tous Ensemble Chardonnay 2015 menu for confrères. SEARED CHILEAN SEA BASS The food, wine, and Cucumber, Mint Relish, knowledgeable staff Rainbow Microgreens were all fantastic. Alexana Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2014 At the recepROASTED LOLLIPOP LAMB CHOPS Turnip Purée, Lamb-Port Demi-Glace tion in the lobby bar, Montepeloso A Quo Super Tuscan 2013 attendees engaged in lively chatter before SWISS CHOCOLATE POT DE CRÈME Taylor Fladgate 10-Year-Old Tawny Port being led to a private dining room for the main event. Confrères appreciated their vantage point overlooking the plaza; it was fun to glimpse the hustle and bustle in this pedestrian-friendly area of The Woodlands. While every dish was delicious—and beautifully represented the flavors of autumn—the highlight was the surprise dessert accompaniment of hot, cinnamoncovered doughnuts, which elicited sighs of pleasure from diners. Those in attendance could not think of a better way to welcome the golden colors of autumn. G

Dame Karen Maybee, Dame Kim Angle, Dame Kay Dunn, Linda Gilley, and Dame Penny Shipp.

Dame Kim Angle and Chevalier Arron Angle.

Vice Conseiller Gastronomique David Gilley.

Flavors of autumn. Chevalier Phil Maybee, Marsha Ghormley, and Officier Scott Cutler.

Confrères with chefs and staff.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

MIAMI

Shake Your Booty BY CARMEN IRENE BIGLES, Vice Chargée de Presse

Miami Bailliage members.

Dame Magdalena Von Freytag, Dame Sig Huth, and Grand Officier Maître Eberhard Linke.

Erika Baquerico, Chevalier Luis Martinez-Moure, and Bailli Provincial Hon. Charles Radlauer.

Chevalier Nick Tranakas and Dame Carol Rubinson.

Chevalier Sam Gonzalez, Dame Lauren Guinot, and Dame Roberta Segal.

London Bailli Régional Helen Sunderland, Bailli Nancy Radlauer, Dame Diana Nachio, Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Maria Eastlick, and Dame Kim Lerner.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

ON NOVEMBER 5, 2017, Miami Bailliage members experienced an enchanted “Arabian night” at Byblos Miami in the Royal Palm South Beach hotel. The twostory venue has a cozy lounge off the lobby and a stunning restaurant upstairs. Following the sparkling reception, attendees were seated in the grand dining room, which was gorgeously decorated in shades of lemon and azure. The central bar, with its gold and silver mirrors, velvet sofas, and Byblos Miami ottomans adorned Royal Palm South Beach with colorful pillows, November 5, 2017 added a spectacular SPICY TUNA visual effect. CRISPY ROCK SHRIMP SNAP PEA SALAD Byblos’s décor Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini 2016 may be Byzantine, but BRAISED LAMB its menu combines CHEESE PIDE Skouras Grande Cuvée Nemea 2012 cuisines from across the Mediterranean region, PRIME STRIP LOIN ROASTED CAULIFLOWER including ingredients Kir-Yianni Ramnista Naoussa 2013 native to Greece, North Africa, and the Middle ORANGE BLOSSOM MOUSSE Yogurt, Pistachio Cake, Cherry Sorbet East. Inviting aromas of Sigalas Vinsanto 2006 spices filled the room, and the dinner itself, served family style, proved sublime. Members were honored to host London Bailli Régional Helen Sunderland. Following the meal, Bailli Nancy Radlauer invited confrères to don the coin skirts provided by the chapter and follow the moves of a professional belly dancer. Before long, everyone was “shaking their booties.” Fittingly, this fun-filled culinary and cultural exploration was commemorated with belly dancer pins. Oh, what a magical night! G

BAILLIAGES

MIAMI SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Successful Mondiale Open House

Chef Saul Gonzalez, Bailli Provincial Hon. Charles Radlauer, Bailli Nancy Radlauer, Chef Fabiano Lazzari, Proprietor/Maître Restaurateur Mickey Annecca, and Proprietor/Maître Restaurateur Vicki Annecca.

BY NANCY RADLAUER, Bailli

THE MIAMI BAILLIAGE held its season opener at Serafina Waterfront Trattoria on October 8, 2017. The event was an open house to introduce members to the Mondiale experience. Proprietors/Maîtres Rôtisseurs Vicki and Mickey Annecca saw to every detail of the Serafina Waterfront Trattoria evening. October 8, 2017 Dining at Serafina OCTOPUS AND SHRIMP feels like dining in a Orange Vinaigrette, Arugula trattoria in Tuscany; La Spinetta Vermentino Toscana IGT 2016 the tables are topped with teeming bowls of TOMATO-CRUSTED SEA BASS Vernaccia Reduction, Artichoke Purée sunflowers, royal blue La Spinetta Il Rosé di Casanova IGT 2016 napkins, and bottles of balsamico for diners to RICOTTA AGNOLOTTI AL TARTUFO La Spinetta Chianti Riserva take home. Combined di Casanova DOCG 2011 with its fabulous cuiALMOND-CRUSTED LAMB LOLLIPOPS sine and waterfront Foie Gras, Demi-Glace location, it’s no wonder La Spinetta Barbera d’Asti Gallina DOCG 2011 that the New Times Broward-Palm Beach HAZELNUT PANNA COTTA La Spinetta Biancospino named it the “Most Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2016 Romantic Restaurant” in Broward County. The Miami Bailliage’s dinner was a resounding success. Each course was paired with a La Spinetta Tuscan or Piedmont wine from the Rivetti family’s expanded portfolios. La Spinetta representatives led diners through the offerings, educating them on “breakfast wines” and the nuances of the company’s olive oils. Talented Chefs Fabiano Lazzari and Saul Gonzalez deserve kudos for their stellar cuisine. Bailli Nancy Radlauer acknowledged them and the Anneccas to thunderous applause. “Serafina” means “heavenly, winged angel” but also translates to “fine evening.” It was a fine evening indeed, and all agreed to return soon! G

Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Nick Tranakas and Dame Anna Tranakas.

Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Josh Mungavin, Chevalier Hashu Gidoomal, and Chevalier Ron Stricoff.

Joe Nachio, Dame Diana Nachio, Chevalier Joseph Nachio, and Joanne Nachio.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY PEGGY FARREN

NAPLES SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Why You Like the Wines You Like

Master of Wine Tim Hanni, Susie Sofos, and Chevalier Don Mann.

BY PETE STILES, Vice Echanson National Honoraire

Lynn Pitochelli and Chevalier David Pizur.

Chevalier Tony Bryant, Dame Anne Frazier, and Scott Frazier.

Different ways people taste and enjoy wines.

Vice Echanson National Hon. Pete Stiles and Master of Wine Tim Hanni.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

Vice Chargé de Presse Hon. Robert Evans and Chevalier George Schrenk.

THE NAPLES BAILLIAGE arranged for Tim Hanni—professional chef, wine expert, industry consultant, and one of the first Masters of Wine in the United States—to lead a seminar on determining wine preferences. Naples and Bonita Mondiale members were invited to this event on February 6 at DeRomo’s Banquet Room. Master of Wine Hanni, author of Why You Like the Wines You Like, approaches the topic scientifically, studying flavor chemistry and physiology of taste as they relate to an individual’s taste preferences. His classification system, which he calls “vinotyping,” explains the fundamental differences in the ways people taste and enjoy wines. “Match the wine to the diner, not the dinner,” he said, stressing that people should be unapologetic about their personal preferences. Each place was set with a plate containing various spices, salt, lemon, asparagus, mushrooms, tomatoes, and red grapes. Master of Wine Hanni led the group through tasting exercises with these items and four different wines: a sweet moscato, a dry sauvignon blanc, a balanced pinot noir, and a tannic Sicilian nerello mascalese. Attendees left the event knowing their vinotypes as well as better informed about how to enjoy the wines that best match their personal preferences. G

BAILLIAGES

A Royal Affair

PHOTOS BY PEGGY FARREN

NAPLES

Officers, honorees, and inductees.

BY THELMA NEGLEY, Vice Chargée de Presse

IT WAS THE perfect occasion for Naples Bailliage members to dust off their tiaras and formal finery. The chapter’s induction gala at the Royal Poinciana Golf Club on March 14, 2017 was indeed a royal affair. Two beefeaters met attendees at the entrance for photo ops with the “princes” and “princesses.” The group was honored to have Bailli Délégué Harold Small officiate the ceremonies; he was assisted by Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer. Fifteen new Royal Poinciana Golf Club members were inducted March 14, 2017 into the Naples ENGLISH SPRING SALAD Bailliage, one into English Peas, Strawberries, Goat the Delaware Valley Cheese Tartlet, Citrus Vinaigrette Armida Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Chapter, and two into the Bonita Bailliage. LOBSTER CONSOMMÉ Lobster Medallion, Tarragon Crêpe Vice Conseiller Keenan Spring Mountain Gastronomique Taryn Chardonnay 2013 McBride was elevated. CREEKSTONE FARMS PRIME In addition, Vice BEEF WELLINGTON Celeriac Purée, Fondant Echanson National Potato, Brussels Sprouts Honoraire Pete Stiles Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2006 was awarded a Bronze STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING Star of Excellence, Bailli Drambuie, Whipped Cream, Berries Roger WeatherburnBaker received a Silver Star of Excellence, and Bailli Délégué Honoraire Dave Wilson was presented with the Conseil d’Honneur medal. Topped with regal purple tablecloths, the dining tables featured centerpieces of white hydrangeas, purple irises, and, of course, glittering crowns. Executive Chef Scott Haegele’s menu reflected the elegant British theme. Before departing, attendees collected their commemorative pins. With the Chaîne crest sitting atop a regal cushion, the pins were wonderful mementos of this fanciful event. G

Bailli Délégué Hon. Dave Wilson.

Dame Michél Franklin, Dame Sandy Stout, and Dame Barbara Barry.

Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Hon. Lacey King and Bailli Délégué Harold Small.

Travis Koch, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Taryn McBride, Gerry McBride, and Brad Nelson.

Bailli Roger Weatherburn-Baker, Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer, Dame Cindy Baldwin, and Bailli Délégué Harold Small.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

NEW ORLEANS SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Sailing into the Sunset BY TONY RITTER, Vice Chargé de Presse New Orleans Bailliage members.

Vice Chancelier-Argentier William Feibleman, Argentier National Hon. Rufus Cressend, and Vice Echanson Wayne Forman.

Dame Shelley MacNary, Dame Donna Ritter, Dame Melanie Talia, and Dame Kathleen Turner.

Dame Brandi Feibleman, Janice Ray, Maître Restaurateur Jimmy Ray, Bailli Yvette Cressend, Vice Echanson Wayne Forman, and Dame Donna Ritter.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

ONE OF THE most picturesque places in New Orleans is the lakefront of Lake Pontchartrain. The Southern Yacht Club, whose kitchen is helmed by Executive Chef James Cullen, is the area’s crown jewel. On September 27, 2017, New Orleans Mondiale members came aboard for their annual induction dinner. Before dropping anchor at the Yacht Club, Chef Cullen served as executive sous-chef Southern Yacht Club at Café Reconcile and September 27, 2017 executive chef at Press OYSTER EN CROÛTE Street Station. Artichoke, Spinach, Mushroom, Tarragon-Herbsaint Cream Sauce The dining area afforded breathtakTURTLE AU SHERRY ing views of Lake PETIT FILET AND CRABMEATSTUFFED FLOUNDER Pontchartrain at sunset. Asparagus, Béarnaise Sauce From the balcony, CHICKORY COFFEE CRÈME BRÛLÉE attendees saluted the BEIGNETS sailboats entering the lake to start their nightly regattas. After Bailli Yvette Cressend called the group to order, Argentier National Honoraire Rufus Cressend, assisted by Officier Harold Bartholomew, inducted Dames de la Chaîne Eileen Devall and Myrna Arroyo and Chevalier Jimmy Ray. Vice Chancelier-Argentier William Feibleman, Vice Echanson Wayne Forman, and Dame de la Chaîne Melanie Talia also assisted with the inductions. In closing, members raised their glasses to Officier Bartholomew for orchestrating the wonderful event. Argentier National Honoraire Cressend and Officier Bartholomew then led the group in toasting Chef Cullen and his crew for sailing the New Orleans Mondiale into a successful induction dinner. G

BAILLIAGES

PHILADELPHIA

Craft and Artisanal Beer Dinner BY PAUL KOULOGEORGE, Mid-Atlantic Chargé de Presse Provincial

THE PAST QUARTER-CENTURY has seen the development of a thriving artisanal and craft beer- and cider-brewing culture in the United States. This trend has coincided with an increased interest in first-rate dining. The pioneers of the U.S. craft-brewing movement revived near-extinct European and other brewing techniques using locally sourced, high-quality ingrediR2L ents such as the iconic June 8, 2017 Cascade hops. CHILLED SHELLFISH Southeastern Braised Leeks, Chips, Egg Yolk Emulsion Pennsylvania, with Levante Bianco Belgian Wit its history of German Levante Split Rail Saison immigration, has KNEPFLE been a hub of the Poppy Seed, Chili Pepper, Saffron craft-brewery moveLevante the Duke Abbaye Tripel ment. Philadelphia CHOUTCROUTE GARNIE Professionnel du Vin Levante Monk’s Night Out Belgian IPA Michael DeThomas’s BEEF SHIN AND TENDERLOIN Levante Brewing Mushroom, Blue Cheese, Foie Gras Butter Company is an artiLevante le Marche Belgiansanal brewery that Style Abbaye Quad makes Belgian-style CHOCOLATE TART beers. On June 8, 2017, Bitter Chocolate, Stout Levante Bullitt Train Imperial Stout he, along with Bailli Thomas Knox and Chevalier Niels Haun, hosted a dinner for the Philadelphia Bailliage at R2L restaurant. The Alsatian menu was structured to highlight different styles of beer and cider. Attendees tasted two styles of cider: a sweet, American-style cider and a dry, yeasty cider styled after traditional cider from the Calvados region. The food and beer pairings were designed to demonstrate the impact of different brewing techniques, ingredients, and alcohol levels on flavor profiles. At evening’s end, the hosts thanked R2L Owner/ Chef Daniel Stern for creating a superb menu to complement the exemplars of Belgian-style American craft brewing. G

Vice Echanson Eliav Barr, Bailli Thomas Knox, and Chevalier Niels Haun.

Yan Jin and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Paul Schulze.

Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Peter Horty and Professionnel du Vin Michael DeThomas.

Chevalier Bruce Zappan.

Chevalier Niels Haun, Professionnel du Vin Michael DeThomas, Owner/Chef Daniel Stern, Bailli Thomas Knox, and R2L staff.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

PHILADELPHIA

Festa Italiana BY PAUL KOULOGEORGE, Mid-Atlantic Chargé de Presse Provincial

Chevalier Maurice Lo Piccolo, Chef Gavin Willey, and Bailli Thomas Knox.

Cindy Adams, Dame Debbie Pastrana, and Dame Ruth Morelli.

Chevalier Steven Wolfe and Magda Reyes.

Officier Niels Haun, Chevalier John Yao, and Vice Chargé de Presse Paul Koulogeorge.

Dame Maryann Pazdan, Chevalier Bernard Guet, Dame Adriana Lo Piccolo, and Hoi Ming Guet.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

CLASSIC ITALIAN RESTAURANTS never go out of style. Carlo Sena opened La Famiglia Ristorante in 1976, and it remains a fixture on the Philadelphia culinary scene. Now run by son Giuseppe Sena, La Famiglia Ristorante continues to wow Philadelphians and amass accolades. While impressive from the outset, the restaurant’s wine cellar has matured over time and is now filled with perfectly aged barolos, brunellos, and Super Tuscans. The Senas have been friends of the La Famiglia Ristorante Philadelphia Bailliage November 10, 2017 for more than forty SCALLOP years, and confrères Lentils, Speck, Grapefruit-Lemon Sauce have enjoyed many Kistler Chardonnay 2004 dinners there. In light Mer Soleil Reserve Chardonnay 2015 of the recent influx EGGPLANT AND CRAB of new members, the Parmesan, Tomato Sauce Isole e Olena Cepparello 2008 chapter decided to hold a festa Italiana at this SQUASH-FILLED RAVIOLI Brown Butter-Sage Sauce great restaurant on Pertinace Barbaresco 1996 November 10, 2017. Dinner chairs BRAISED BEEF ROAST Truffle Polenta Chevalier Maurice Lo Elio Grasso Gavarini Vigna Piccolo and Chevalier Chiniera Barolo 2001 Larry Weitzner collaboCHOCOLATE MOUSSE rated with Owner Sena Kiwi Sauce Conceito 10-Year-Old Tawny Port N.V. on the classic Tuscan repast paired with spectacular wines. The menu featured modern takes on traditional dishes. The wine highlight was Elio Grasso Gavarini Vigna Chiniera Barolo 2001, which showed wonderful spice and rose-petal notes, graceful tannins, and lots of plum and cherry. Like this wine, La Famiglia Ristorante has aged beautifully. The Philadelphia Chapter looks forward to enjoying many more meals there in the coming years. G

BAILLIAGES

PHILADELPHIA

Reinvention and Reunion BY PAUL KOULOGEORGE, Mid-Atlantic Chargé de Presse Provincial

FOR THIRTY-FIVE years, Chef Susanna Foo—a Philadelphia Bailliage member—has been reinventing Asian cuisine. In the 1970s, her eponymous restaurant in Philadelphia was celebrated as a center of the Asian fusion movement, melding Chinese, Korean, and Japanese recipes with French cooking techniques. She and her contemporaries deserve credit for the Asian SuGa fusion cuisine served October 29, 2017 at many top restauMA-LA BEEF SHANK rants today. Dominique Belluard Ayse Brut She recently les Perles du Mont Blanc 2013 opened a new restauCURRIED OCTOPUS rant in Philadelphia Max Ferd. Richter Mülheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Alte Reben 2015 called SuGa, which combines part of her BUTTER-POACHED HALIBUT Château de Chamilly Montagny first name with that of les Bassets Burgundy 2015 her son and business WHOLE PEKING DUCK partner, Gabriel Foo. Marques del Hueco Reserva Rioja 1999 To celebrate its openSALT-AND-PEPPER BERKSHIRE ing, she invited the PORK TENDERLOIN Philadelphia Bailliage Carlisle Carlisle Vineyard Zinfandel 2012 to dine there on ORANGE-CHOCOLATE MOUSSE October 29, 2017. Domaine Bott-Geyl Sonnenglanz Gewürztraminer Grand Cru 2008 Chaired by Vice Chargée de Missions Linda Knox and Officier Niels Haun, the dinner was a lovely mix of old favorites and new surprises. Seasonal vegetables and locally sourced meats were transformed into beautiful dishes. The dinner cochairs, assisted by Chevalier Larry Weitzner, chose dry and off-sweet wines to accompany the food. At evening’s end, Chef Foo introduced her son and their staff. Attendees were impressed by all aspects of the evening—not least of all the enduring high quality of Chef Foo’s cuisine over the past thirty-five years. G

Chevalier Maurice Lo Piccolo, Dame Adriana Lo Piccolo, and Officier Joseph McGowan.

Dame Margie Geiger and Dame Lynne Lechter.

Officier Niels Haun, Co-Owner/Chef Susanna Foo, Bailli Thomas Knox, and Vice Chargée de Missions Linda Knox.

Vice Chargé de Presse Paul Koulogeorge and Vice Echanson Eliav Barr.

Chevalier Brian Lipstein and Chevalier Larry Weitzner.

Co-Owner/Chef Susanna Foo and SuGa team.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

SAN ANTONIO

A Dinner Party to Die For BY VIVIAN RAY, Bailli

Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon, Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Judy Salomon, Dame Kathy O’Neill, and Chevalier Sean O’Neill.

Bailli Vivian Ray, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Anna Hafkus, and Dame Theresa Casiano.

Dame Dana Phillips and Dame Linda Elliott.

“Death Is a Bummer, Let’s Drink.”

Vice Chargé de Médias Sociaux Tom Phillips and Officier Mia Rosen.

Chevalier Victor Casiano, Chargé de Presse Provincial Hon. Jim Ray, and Chevalier Peter Hafkus.

Vice Chargée de Missions Catherine Milbourn, Chevalier Phil Kelly, Dame Cheryl Kelly, and Dame Martha Uhler.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

THE SAN ANTONIO Chaîne Ladies decided on a murder mystery dinner for one of the chapter’s 2018 events. On January 20, San Antonio Bailliage members gathered at the San Antonio Country Club for “A Dinner Party to Die For.” The invitation asked them to help solve the murder of winery owner Malcolm Merlot. The case was called “Death Is a Bummer, Let’s Drink.” San Antonio Country Club Conseiller January 20, 2018 Culinaire Provincial Honoraire Marvin Jones PAN-ROASTED RED SNAPPER Shrimp-Chorizo Paella, and Executive Chef Pumpkin Seed Pistou Nelson Millán creLincourt Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills 2013 ated a delicious menu with humorous course SWEET POTATO GNOCCHI Mushroom Ragù, Sagetitles. Following the Brown Butter Sauce reception, attendees Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino 2007 dispersed to observe and question the DEATH BY CHOCOLATE AND DARK CHERRIES BAKED ALASKA suspects. During the Paitin la Serra Barbaresco 2007 scrumptious threecourse meal, they circulated among the tables, exploring and talking with the characters. Those investigated were the wine master (Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Honoraire John Wade); Malcolm’s child (Maître de Table Restaurateur Sandra Langston); the landowner (Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon); the vineyard owner (Chevalier Robert Maloney); the gift-shop manager (Dame de la Chaîne Patricia Weber); the innkeeper (Dame de la Chaîne Martha Uhler); the attorney (Vice Chargée de Presse Honoraire Judy Salomon); and the police chief (Vice Chargé de Médias Sociaux Tom Phillips). After all of the evidence was presented, a confrère solved the case and received a basket of goodies. G

BAILLIAGES

SEATTLE

Grand Dinner in Support of Young Chefs BY ROBIN DU BRIN, Pacific Northwest Chargée de Presse Provincial, AND MICHELE HEIDT, Officier

THE CHAÎNE OFFERS members many ways to enjoy and support the culinary arts. The Seattle Bailliage has a long history of supporting young chefs through scholarship funds and the chapter’s annual local Young Heidt Residence Chefs Rôtisseurs January 13, 2018 Competition. A small group CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP White Loire Wine Vouvray 2016 of confrères who had bid for the pleasure WASABI LOBSTER Domaine Vacheron Sancerre 2016 of dining together at the home of Officier SMOKED AND CONFIT PORK CHEEKS Louis Jadot Beaune Clos Michele Heidt and Vice des Ursules 2005 Chancelier-Argentier Domaine Pierre Amiot et Fils MoreySt.-Denis Premier Cru les Ruchots 2005 Honoraire Dan Heidt did so on January 13. CORIANDER- AND CINNAMONRUBBED DUCK BREAST Upon entering the Domaine de la Romanée Conti gold-wrapped dining Romanée St-Vivant 1997 Domaine de la Romanée room, the table set Conti Échézeaux 2004 with fine crystal and VANILLA PANNA COTTA china, attendees knew Tokaji Aszú 4 Puttonyos 2000 it would be a special evening. Officier Heidt presented a complex, six-course menu in which the fusion of international flavors was produced using modern techniques. The courses were served with superb wines from the cellars of Darlene Chan and Vice Echanson Greg Chan and the Heidts. The wine standouts were two very fine burgundies: Domaine de la Romanée Conti Romanée St-Vivant 1997 and Domaine de la Romanée Conti Échézeaux 2004. The wonderful evening was filled with laughter and camaraderie. Yet, what pleased attendees most was knowing they had gathered for the important purpose of supporting young chefs. G

Vice Echanson Greg Chan and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Hon. Dan Heidt.

Officier Michele Heidt and Darlene Chan.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY JUDITH MAZZA AND ALLAN KAM

WASHINGTON, D.C. SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Discovering Whiskey at a D.C. Speakeasy

Bar Manager Tony Burke and Bailli Judith Mazza.

BY WHITNEY BABASH, Dame de la Chaîne

“Being in a speakeasy is cool.” –Participant Chicken + Whiskey tasting class

Chevalier Alex Bess and Nia Hope.

Officier Allan Kam and Bailli Judith Mazza.

Dame Whitney Babash.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

WASHINGTON, D.C. Mondiale members enjoyed a whiskey-tasting class at Chicken + Whiskey on February 3. From the front entrance of Chicken + Whiskey, the view is of a casual, inviting eatery. It is indeed that, and, under the auspices of Executive Chef/Maître Rôtisseur Enrique Limardo, it serves some of the best rotisserie chicken and Latin American sides in the region. “Whiskey” enters the equation when one passes through the walk-in freezer at the back to find a speakeasy featuring 100-plus whiskeys from around the world. The afternoon was a fun and educational exploration of three “expressions” of Angels Envy whiskeys—two bourbons and one rye—from Louisville, Kentucky. Bar Manager Tony Burke explained the proper tasting technique and fielded questions from the eager tasters, who readily shared their impressions of each drink. Chef Miguel Perez’s Venezuela-inspired bites showed how well Venezuelan flavors complement American whiskey. Attendees ranged from folks who were not big whiskey drinkers and had never been to a tasting to whiskey aficionados. Regardless of experience level, everyone learned something new and gained a deeper appreciation for this quintessential American spirit. G

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY JUDITH MAZZA AND ALLAN KAM

WASHINGTON, D. C.

Dining with a Master at Clarity BY MICHAEL MCHENRY, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique

ON JANUARY 22, the Washington, D.C. Bailliage ventured to Vienna, Virginia, to dine at Clarity restaurant. Owner/Chef Jon Krinn—who has worked with Alain Ducasse, Michel Rostang, Tom Colicchio, and Rocco DiSpirito—is known for his masterful use of traditional French and contemporary techniques. At Clarity, he serves his refined, innovative cuisine in a sophisticated, yet relaxed neighClarity January 22, 2018 borhood-restaurant atmosphere. SMOKED NEW ENGLAND DIVER SCALLOP Views of the Didier Dagueneau Pouillyopen kitchen from the Fumé Pur Sang 2014 private dining space MEDITERRANEAN BRANZINO enabled confrères to Forest Mushroom-Napa Cabbage Consommé watch Chef Krinn at Domaine Hubert Lamy Chassagnework. The five-course Montrachet le Concis du Champs 2013 menu brilliantly showELYSIAN FIELDS LAMB CAVATELLI cased his talent, range, Domaine Duroche GevreyChambertin 2015 and impeccable sense of flavor. For example, ROASTED CANADIAN ELK Spice Crust, Red Wine Sauce a touch of chocolate Mayard Châteauneuf-dupowder was added to Pape Cuvée Alex 2015 Canadian elk loin to APPLE-APRICOT-CARAMEL SABAYON give it an intriguing Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2005 hint of both sweetness and bitterness. With each course, Chef Krinn described the concept, techniques, and ingredients of the dish, adding to diners’ appreciation. Further enhancing the evening, Bailli Judy Mazza had several attendees change places between courses, maximizing the camaraderie of the table that is a hallmark of the Chaîne. The bailliage was excited to experience Chef Krinn’s Clarity. It was clear how his cuisine and hospitality have made it a local favorite and one of Washingtonian magazine’s “100 Very Best Restaurants” of 2018. G

Bailli Judith Mazza, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Hon. François Dionot, and Owner/Chef Jonathan Krinn.

Officier Allan Kam and Dame Kathy Cleary.

Dame Janice McHenry and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Michael McHenry.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

ALBANY SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Irouléguy for Dummies BY WILLIAM M. HARRIS, Bailli

ALBANY VICE ECHANSON Michael Thomson uses Mondiale events to introduce members to new wines. At the Cuckoo’s Nest Restaurant on June 19, he led an adventurous group on an exploration of the wines of Irouléguy. Yet, the fun started well before, as his invitation included a lively anecdote about how he came to choose the evening’s theme. Attendees sampled three Irouléguy wines from Domaine Arretxea: a white, a rosé, and a red. The white was comprised of gros manseng, petit manseng, and petit courbu—not exactly household varietals. However, this wine did find its share of supporters. The rosé—a tannat-cabernet franc blend—was the group’s favorite. This author believes that in a blind-tasting, this wine could easily be mistaken for a red. Braised short rib was served with Rouge Cuvée Haitza, comprised of tannat and cabernet sauvignon. This was an unusual wine that no one would mistake for a bordeaux! The event had at least one long-lasting benefit for attendees: if ever they are approached by a wine snob who name-drops Irouléguy, they can confidently reply, “Oh, yes, the wines from the Basque area of France and Spain. I have sampled several of the wines from Domaine Arretxea and particularly enjoyed the full-bodied 2013 rosé.” That should shut them up. G

Vice Echanson Michael Thomson and Dame Barbara Downs.

ATLANTA

Tuscan Winter Feast BY BECKY LUKOVIC, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON JANUARY 14, Partner/Executive Chef Stephen Herman prepared a hearty Tuscan feast for Atlanta Bailliage members at Valenza Italian Restaurant. The seasonally inspired meal at Brookhaven’s premier Italian restaurant delighted attendees. The evening began with a taste of prosecco and a toast to the new year and old friends. With its exposed beams and authentic Venetian-plaster walls, Valenza exudes rustic charm. Glowing candles set in the antique chandeliers made the beautiful private dining room even cozier. Chef Herman’s robust Italian meal was perfect for the chilly January evening. The ricotta-kale ravioli was a rich, creamy delight, and the osso buco was likewise superbly prepared. Bailli Herb Spasser expertly paired the courses with superb wines from the chapter’s cellar. The evening’s stars were Elvio Cogno Barolo 2000 from the Ravera Cru section of the Barolo region and the lovely Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montelcino 2001, which the Wine Spectator ranked twelfth on its list of Top 100 Wines of 2006. What a treat! At evening’s end, Bailli Spasser presented Chef Herman and his team with a commemorative Chaîne plaque as the contented group broke into enthusiastic applause. G

Vice Chargé de Missions Andrew Ward and Chef Rôtisseur Don Sedivy, Jr.

Dame Evelynne Green and Chevalier Charles Green.

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

BAILLIAGES

BUFFALO SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

What Wines with What Chocolates?! BY HELEN CAPPUCCINO, Northeast Chargée de Presse Provincial/Buffalo Bailli

DID YOU EVER wonder which chocolates really go with which wines, and why? On an early spring night still plagued by snow and ice jambs in the Niagara River, twenty-five Buffalo Mondiale members gathered at the Buffalo Yacht Club to sample four different desserts and several chocolates served with six different wines. These treats followed a delightful reception that featured plentiful hors d’oeuvres and charcuterie. Vice Echanson Sharon Osgood, Chevalier David Lillie, and Dame Madeline Lillie. At this fun event, attendees explored why chocolate is the confectionery match to wine. Perhaps it’s because the process of making each is similar; also, their raw ingredients are fermented with the same type of yeast. Or maybe it’s because tannins are an important taste component of both. No wonder so many people love wine and chocolate with equal passion! The desserts and chocolates saw both classic and more innovative wine partners. Attendees comfortably shared their opinions of the various combinations they tried, making for a lively, participatory event. All came away with a greater appreciation of new wine and chocolate combinations. The lovely venue offered panoramic views of Buffalo’s Niagara River coast as well as views of our neighbor to the north—Canada. G

COLONIAL NEW ENGLAND

Delightful Park Tour and Dinner BY CAROLE DORRIS, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON MAY 6, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Russ Litin led the Colonial New England Bailliage’s visit to the Adams National Historical Park in Quincy, Massachusetts. The park preserves the homes of U.S. Presidents John Adams and John Quincy Adams. The tour began in the austere house in which John was born, wound through additions and a new home reflecting a more affluent period for the Adamses, and culminated in the magnificent Library—said to be the first presidential library in the country. The homes are so far apart on what had been a single parcel of land that attendees took a shuttle between them. Some family items in the beautiful “Old House” Alba were used in the White House of John Quincy Adams. May 6, 2018 The group dined at nearby Alba restaurant, whose LUMP CRAB CAKE website refers to it as the “South Shore’s Premier Upland Cress, Shallots, Mustard Sauce Restaurant and Steak House.” At a single, long table, ATLANTIC COD attendees clinked glasses for successive Chaîne toasts, Braised Leeks, Mussel Chowder, Broccoli Rabe chanting the requisite “Vive la Chaîne!” with gusto! While all of the courses were delicious, smoked RACK OF LAMB Couscous, Medjool Dates, Mint Yogurt cream—the basis of the sauce for the cod and mussel preparations—stood out. CHOCOLATE DESSERT No one in attendance could recall experiencing a more delightful history lesson! G WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY ELLEN ROSENBERG

DELAWARE VALLEY

A Trip to the Loire Valley BY KATHLEEN BOYLE, Vice Chargée de Presse

SPRING MILL CAFÉ Owner/Chef Michele Haines is passionate about sharing food and experiences with others—be it diners at her restaurant or humanitarian groups she partners with to improve the lives of those in need. Growing up in France’s Touraine region, Chef Haines learned about the food, wines, and cooking techniques associated with the Loire Valley. She immigrated to the United States, settling in the Philadelphia area, where she taught high school and college. In 1978, she channeled her knowledge, skills, and energy into transforming the Spring Mill general store into a restaurant. She has been sharing her multigenerational family recipes with others ever since. On July 15—the day after Bastille Day—Delaware Valley Bailliage members toasted the many benefits of French-American relations on the café’s patio before moving indoors to enjoy the food and wines of the Loire Valley. Chef Haines spoke about traditional French country foods and told the story of the Tatin sisters. As a special treat, she and her team delivered tartes Tatins to each table in traditional cast-iron pans. Delighted attendees reveled in the notions of current and future French-American culinary collaborations. G

Jason Payne and Ecuyer Michelle Payne.

Professionnel de la Table Bette Walters.

Chevalier Wayne Wilson, Dame Lisa Jacobs, and Officier Don Robbins.

DES MOINES

Morel Hunt at the Embassy Club BY SANDY CUTTER, Vice Chargée de Presse

HAVE YOU EVER hunted for morels? That’s how Des Moines Bailliage members began their induction dinner at the Des Moines Embassy Club on April 29. The theme was inspired by General Manager/ Bailli Honoraire Michael La Valle and Executive Chef/Chef Rôtisseur Michael Bailey’s recent trip to Sonoma. Chef Bailey created a bed of wheatgrass in which he hid several morels for each diner. General Manager La Valle explained the significance of the club’s antique chandeliers, which had been moved to their present location in 1975. Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth inducted six new members and presented commandeur pins to Officier David Boarini, Bailli Honoraire Doug Crain, and General Manager La Valle. Bailli Jim Cutter awarded a Bronze Star of Excellence to Maître de Table Restaurateur Robert Anderson, an instrumental member of the Iowa Culinary Institute for more than thirty years. In addition to his involvement in the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition and ICI’s Chaîne Scholars program, he has mentored many professional confrères. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, the renowned chef was inducted into the Honorable Order of the Golden Toque in 2000 and received the prestigious Ordre des Palmes Académiques honor from the French government in 2016. G

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth, Maître de Table Restaurateur Robert Anderson, and Bailli Jim Cutter.

Dame Susan Dow and Chevalier Jim Dow.

Sarah Baruthio and Maître Rôtisseur David Baruthio.

BAILLIAGES

GARDEN STATE SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Sancerre and Seafood, Brunello and Beef BY VICTOR S. SLOAN, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON MARCH 18, the Garden State Mondiale dined at Char Steakhouse in Raritan, New Jersey. The theme was “Sancerre and Seafood, Brunello and Beef,” and Echanson Provincial/Bailli George Staikos collaborated with Owner/Manager Luciano Ingrao and Corporate Chef Phil Deffina on a menu that showcased these two outstanding pairings. “Jersey guy” Chef Deffina has been working in restaurants since he was a teenager. A Culinary Institute of America alumnus, he worked at La Folie in San Francisco, Icarus in Boston, and David Burke’s Fromagerie in New Jersey before joining Char. Chef Deffina uses primarily local ingredients, and the Barnegat scallop with smoked onion jus epitomized the best of New Jersey’s offerings. Another culinary highlight was the demonstration hors d’oeuvre of hamachi with green curry and pickled spring onions. Chef Deffina prepared the entire appetizer before rapt confrères, down to pickling the onions. Both wine pairings featured one younger and one older exemplar, allowing comparisons to be made and showcasing the most important characteristics of each course. Of course, no Mondiale event would be complete without song, and Echanson Provincial/Bailli Staikos presented Chevalier David Schulman with a Mondiale wine bag in recognition of his musical contributions over the years. G

Echanson Provincial/Bailli George Staikos, Chevalier David Schulman, and Nancy Fenimore.

Corporate Chef Phil Deffina.

KANSAS CITY

February Fête at Le Fou Frog BY ROD RICHARDSON, Vice Chargé de Presse

MERRIAM-WEBSTER DEFINES “gastronome” as “a lover of good food; especially: one with a serious interest in gastronomy.” And where in Kansas City might one find a group of enthusiastic gastronomes on a chilly February evening? Why at Le Fou Frog, of course! Co-owned by Chef Mano Rafael and Barbara Rafael, Le Fou Frog is tucked away in the city’s historic River Market district. Yet, “Le Fou” has gained iconic status for both its delicious dishes and French-New York vibe. Amid colorful décor that contributed to the party atmosphere, the husband-and-wife team offered Kansas City Bailliage members a master class in fresh, elegant cuisine. The bailliage’s membership has continued to grow to a comfortable number over the years. Events are planned to allow members the opportunity to experience new and different venues in and around Kansas City. They are also planned to allow local chefs the opportunity to demonstrate their creativity, which was clearly evident at this dinner. Great food served with fine wines enjoyed in the company of friends epitomizes the Chaîne! The evening at Le Fou Frog provided a warm and tasty refuge from winter’s bite. Vive la Chaîne! G

Chevalier Vincent McInerney and Wendy Phillips.

Chevalier Michael Weaver and Jamila Murga.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

KANSAS CITY SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Wine Challenge at Hogshead BY ROD RICHARDSON, Vice Chargé de Presse

Hogshead March 25, 2018 BEET SALAD Burrata, Pistachio Granola Clos Solène la Rose Paso Robles 2016 Limerick Lane Grenache Rosé 2015

A SELECT GROUP of Kansas City Mondiale memSKUNA BAY SALMON Bruno Colin Chassagnebers were tasked with choosing the perfect wines Montrachet 2013 to pair with a dinner that the larger Mondiale conBRAISED SHORT RIBS tingent would enjoy at Hogshead restaurant on the Mashed Potatoes, Red Wine Demi-Glace Country Club Plaza. They were asked to choose Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 wines to accompany the hors d’oeuvres and four dinner courses. DOUGHNUT BREAD PUDDING Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Jesse Little and Arianne Kreger. Maple-Pecan Ice Cream On March 25, the entire Mondiale group conPedro Ximénez Alvear vened to enjoy the “chosen” wines with Hogshead Solera 1927 Sherry Owner/Executive Chef Clark Grant’s delicious cuisine. At the reception, attendees happily accepted glasses of Robert Weil Kiedrich Grāfenberg Riesling Trocken GG 2012 to sip with the appetizers. Under the guidance of Bailli Mike Foster and Chef Grant, the committee members announced their selections for each course, explaining the rationale behind each decision. The evening’s wines were Clos Solène la Rose Paso Robles 2016; Limerick Lane Grenache Rosé 2015; Bruno Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 2013; and a superb flight of Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley. The final offering, Pedro Ximénez Alvear Solera 1927 Sherry, proved a great match for the dessert of doughnut bread pudding. Held at one of Kansas City’s most beloved venues, the event that began with a challenge ended in victory for all in attendance. G

LA GRANDE CAVE DU NEW JERSEY

Springing Forward BY SAMUEL J. MCNULTY, Chevalier

ON MARCH 11, before turning their clocks forward in accordance with Daylight Saving Time, members of the La Grande Cave du New Jersey Bailliage headed to Elia restaurant in East Rutherford, New Jersey. The group was excited to try the new venue that had opened in the space formerly occupied by the venerable Park & Orchard restaurant. With its stylish refurbishing, Elia made a positive first impression. At the reception, savory appetizers were served with Boizel Brut Réserve Champagne N.V., which, Elia noted Bailli John Foy, is the newest champagne to enter March 11, 2018 the American market. Members were then treated to a GRILLED OCTOPUS delicious Mediterranean repast courtesy of Executive Eggplant and Zucchini Chips, Yogurt Chef Jose Falcon and General Manager Tim Salouros. François Carillon Puligny-Montrachet les Perriers Premier Cru 2014 The chapter lived up to its “Grande Cave” moniker and high wine standards with an array of LAMB AND BEEF KEFTA Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 2009 burgundies from its cellar. Bailli Foy distributed maps of the Côte d’Or region to aid his presentation of the DUCK MOUSSAKA Bouchard Volnay Caillerets Ancienne evening’s wine line-up. Cuvée Carnot Premier Cru 2009 Vice Chargé de Missions Gary Borntrager spoke SELECTION OF ELIA DESSERTS enthusiastically about the superb Mediterranean cuiChâteau de Montfort sine. Despite the prospect of losing an hour of sleep, Vouvray Demi-Sec 2015 diners welcomed the transition to spring as well as the opening of this great new restaurant! G 52

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

Joanne Spataro and Chevalier Joseph Spataro.

Beverly Heller and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Dennis Drasco.

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY MARTIN WYAND

MAUI

Celebrating World Chaîne Day the Maui Way BY BRIAN T. MOTO, Vice Chargé de Presse

WORLD CHAÎNE DAY is a day to celebrate! The Maui Bailliage marked the occasion, which was observed around the world on April 21, by dining at nyloS Restaurant in Paia. Housed in a restored, plantation-era storefront, nyloS is the creation of married couple Chef Jeremy and Paulina Solyn, who reversed the letters in their surname to derive their restaurant’s name. Chef Solyn began his career at Chicago’s Michelin-starred Moto restaurant before serving as executive chef in venues in Arizona and Colorado. According to the restaurant’s website, the Solyns opened nyloS “to do something unique and to serve and make people happy.” Chef Solyn describes his cuisine as “eclectic New American.” Confrères had nyloS to themselves, enjoying a meal that featured local delicacies, such as Kauai jumbo shrimp and Big Island mushrooms, as well as products from the Pacific Northwest, including Washington State halibut and Oregon morels. In a show of gratitude for his hospitality and expertise, the chef was presented with a commemorative Chaîne plate. As at any Chaîne event, confrères enjoyed each other’s company; yet on this special occasion, they also felt united in camaraderie with fellow members across the globe. G

Bailli Adele Rugg, Owner Paulina Solyn, and Owner/Chef Jeremy Solyn.

Owner/Chef Jeremy Solyn.

PHOTOS BY BRONNIE FISHER

MYRTLE BEACH

From Russia with Love BY WILLIAM A. HIRSH, South Central Bailli Provincial

THE RUSSIAN NEW Year coincided with the Myrtle Beach Bailliage’s “From Russia with Love”-themed dinner at Owner/Chef/Vice Conseiller Culinaire Martin Dobr’s eponymous restaurant on January 7. A native of Prague, Chef Dobr served in the Russian army and worked in top restaurants in California and Hawaii before settling in Myrtle Beach and opening his own establishment. For this meal, he drew on his heritage and training while showcasing fresh, modern ingredients. To start, attendees enjoyed offerings from a caviar bar and a “Shaken, Not Stirred” martini bar at which six different vodkas added exotic touches to James Bond’s favorite libation. Museum-quality Russian art on display throughout the restaurant added visual appeal. Chevalier Gregory Gerasimov and Dame de la Chaîne Olga Gerasimova generously loaned the works from their private collection. The evening’s entertainment included gypsy and classic dances as well as traditional folk songs. As mementos of the occasion, attendees received Chaîne pins featuring Russian nesting dolls that had been specially designed in Moscow. The experience evoked memories of New York’s famous Russian Tea Room and times gone by. Wonderful food, beautiful artwork, delightful entertainment, and individual Charlotte Russes for dessert made for a perfect evening. G

Confrères with Owner/Chef/Vice Conseiller Culinaire Martin Dobr (standing, center) and Maître Rôtisseur Jan Dobr (front).

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

BAILLIAGES

NEW YORK

French-Inspired Seasonal Celebration BY PATRICK J. EGAN, Vice Chargé de Presse

HAVING HAD AN exceptional dining experience his first time at Racines, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Honoraire Omar Khan knew it was the perfect place for the New York Echanson Provincial Joseph D’Ambrosio, Owner/Sommelier Arnaud Tronche, Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Jim Wallick, Sous-Chef Bailliage’s holiday celebration on December Mariana Mateos, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Omar Khan, Vice Chargé de Presse Patrick Egan, and Vice Conseiller 12, 2017. It was, after all, the New York outCulinaire Andrew Gajary. post of two great Paris wine bars. Executive Chef Frédéric Duca trained at the Michelin three-starred Le Petit Nice and the Michelin-starred L’Instant d’Or, both in France. Under the tutelage of culinary icons Gérald Passédat, Michel del Burgo, and Hélène Darroze, Chef Duca learned that great chefs help less advanced chefs refine their skills. Such was the case on this very special evening. Demonstrating her own culinary adroitness, Sous-Chef Mariana Mateos led her team with razor-sharp expertise. The impeccably timed courses flowed naturally from one to the next. Overseeing the superb wine service was Owner/Sommelier Arnaud Tronche. While born and raised in France, he saved his dream of opening his own restaurant until he moved to New York. Racines is located in Tribeca—one of the city’s most expensive neighborhoods. Those lucky enough to attend this dinner departed with the sense that they had just spent the evening in their Sous-Chef Mariana Mateos. own little French bistro around the corner. G

ORLANDO

A Spring Feast BY F. IMOGENE WHITE, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE ORLANDO BAILLIAGE’S spring feast was held at the elegant Isleworth Golf & Country Club on April 7. As befitting a spring event in Florida, an impressive tropical thunderstorm, visible over Lake Louise, was an added highlight of the evening. Yet even the most dramatic weather could not eclipse the fabulous food and wine. Executive Chef Andres Rumis’s Pastry Chef Andreas Proisl, CEPC, and Vice Conseiller Culinaire Joe Hardiman. delicious menu featured locally sourced, seasonal items that offered an array of flavors and textures. Truffle-goat cheese panna cotta, fava bean-fennel salad, smoked tomato vierge sauce, and caramelized shallot-foie gras crumble were among the delightful medley. “A Play on Strawberries” for dessert was a nod to Florida’s booming strawberry season. This lighter-than-air confection seemed poised to float off the plate as diners savored the last few bites of the dazzling dinner. Each perfectly presented plate was paired with a superb wine selected by Echanson Provincial Honoraire Peter Burke and Food and Beverage Manager John Ofrecio. Of course, what made the evening most appealing was sharing the experience with Chaîne friends. It was the ideal way to welcome spring! G

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

BAILLIAGES

PITTSBURGH

Extraordinary Evening at the Twisted Frenchman BY ANN KOLINER, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE PITTSBURGH CHAPTER’S kick-off event for 2018 was held at the Twisted Frenchman on February 25. Partner/Chef Andrew Garbarino and his talented team designed and delivered a fourteen-course culinary extravaganza. The forty attendees, among whom were both gastronomes and professional members, enjoyed the delicious tasting menu along with expertly chosen wines. There was a favorite indulgence for everyone; the savory offerings included egg custard with beluga caviar, foie gras with sweet onion marmalade, smoked duck with rutabaga purée, and pork belly with smoked tomato polenta. Those with a sweet tooth found satisfaction in lemon meringue and flourless chocolate cakes. All fourteen courses were served with love, pride, and attention to every detail. Wow! At this boutique French restaurant, with its specially designed kitchens and dining room and remarkably trained staff, Pittsburgh confrères experienced an evening of culinary innovation, awe, and enchantment. Following dinner, Bailli Jill Kummer and Chef Garbarino introduced the culinary team, who were met with enthusiastic applause from satisfied diners. Everyone agreed that there was no better place to hold this fabulous kick-off event than the Twisted Frenchman—one of the city’s finest venues. G

Chef Rôtisseur Vincent Sanzotti, Chevalier Jud Stewart, Mickey Stewart, Chevalier Paul Peffer, and Rebecca Sanzotti.

Maître Rôtisseur Tim Fetter, Natalie Bello, and Vice Echanson Joseph Bello.

ST. LOUIS

Dinner of Champions BY SAM LONGSTRETH, Vice Chargé de Presse

THE NIGHT OF June 24 was dark and stormy as the first wave of St. Louis Bailliage confrères arrived at Bellerive Country Club for their annual induction dinner. Latecomers regretted their tardiness as what can only be described as a monsoon-like deluge dampened their clothing, if not their spirits. The club was in the process of transforming the grounds for the upcoming PGA Championship. While memorabilia from champions such as Ben Hogan, John Daly, and Tiger Woods were on display, members came to Bellerive to fête another champion—Rôtisseur Logan Christensen, who had recently won of the National Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. Rôtisseur Christensen was proud to serve attendees his gold medal-winning meal. What he presented was stellar. From the appetizers of foie gras ganache, deviled quail eggs, and lobstercorn fritters, to the finale of dark chocolate Bavarian and warm chocolate cake, it was one of the best meals the St. Louis Bailliage has experienced in years. At evening’s end, Bailli Linda McGovern thanked Rôtisseur Christensen, Executive Chef Kevin Storm, and Director of Hospitality Lynn Butler and expressed her hope that the evening’s four inductees had not been too spoiled by the meal! G

Bellerive Country Club June 24, 2018 LEMON-MARINATED HALIBUT Celery Root Purée, Seafood Agnolotti Walter Hansel Cahill Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2013

National Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition Winner Rôtisseur Logan Christensen.

PAN-SEARED DUCK BREAST AND TEA-SMOKED PORK BELLY Cheddar Crumble, Braised Potato, Shiitake-Duck Ragoût Ken Wright Pinot Noir Guadalupe Vineyard 2014 DARK CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN AND WARM CHOCOLATE CAKE Strawberry Sorbet, Orange Curd, Chocolate Shortbread Robert Mondavi Moscato d’Oro 2015

Bailli Linda McGovern, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Marianne Prey, and Echanson Provincial/Indianapolis Bailli Gregory Wallis.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

TAMPA SUN COAST

James BeardInspired Soirée BY AUSTIN RANDALL TAYLOR, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON MAY 26, Tampa Sun Coast Bailliage members gathered at the award-winning Mise en Place restaurant for a James Beard-inspired dinner created by Co-Proprietor/Chef Marty Blitz. The James Beard Foundation honors chefs and other leaders who make America’s food Theresa Jones, Chevalier David Jones, and Bailli Hon. Ruth Adrian. Chevalier Russell Arney. culture more delicious, diverse, and sustainable. Co-Proprietor/CEO Maryann Ferenc, who, with Chef Blitz, established Mise en Place in 1986, explained how the dinner came about. “[Bailli] Bob Procida [and his wife, Phyllis], who have been wonderful clients for many years, were excited about Chef Marty recreating menu items…[from] his “Rising Star Chef” dinner at the James Beard House in 1993. We loved…being able to look back [at]…that wonderful time in our career and share it with these distinguished palates.” Mise en Place is Tampa’s premier restaurant for modern American cuisine. The menu’s dynamic flavors reflect Chef Blitz’s love of food and the region. Attendees agreed that the chef’s process of formulating dishes in his mind and serving them without ever having tasted the recipes produces some of the most exciting food in the area. Thank you, Chef Blitz, for recreating that historic dinner that celebrated you as a Rising Star Chef! G Dame Patricia Taylor and Vice Chargé de Presse Austin Randall Taylor.

TRIANGLE

Culinary Journey at Elements BY SANDY MERA BRIDGER, Vice Chargée de Presse

AT THE AWARD-WINNING Elements restaurant on April 22, the Triangle Bailliage embarked on a culinary journey that highlighted the melding of the many flavors represented in Owner/Chef Michael Chuong’s home country of South Vietnam, including the influences of China, Khmer, India, Japan, and France. Confrères enjoyed such innovative preparations as smoked-in-the-jar scallops and soup dumplings, which were offered in conjunction with a demonstration on how to eat them gracefully, without splashing or burning the tongue. The intermezzo was a presentation of “Dragon’s Breath”—a traditional Korean rice puff that had been treated with liquid nitrogen. Upon consuming this simple treat, which had been elevated through an application of basic science, diners gleefully attempted to produce the largest smoke plume possible. Whether familial or culinary, love is the common thread that runs through Elements. Holding his granddaughter in his arms, while his wife, Lan, and his daughter, Van, looked on, Chef Chuong recounted learning to cook and appreciate food in his mother’s kitchen in Vietnam. Clearly, these roots are far reaching and run deep. A quote by George Bernard Shaw, which appears on the restaurant’s website, epitomizes Chef Chuong’s personal philosophy: “There is no love sincerer than the love of food.” G 56

CHAINEUS.ORG

WINTER 2018

Owner/Chef Michael Chuong, Vice Chargé de Missions Cameron Bridger, and Van Choung.

PHOTOS BY AUSTIN RANDALL TAYLOR AND DONALD SCOTT

BAILLIAGES

TRIANGLE SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

French Sake Dinner BY SANDY MERA BRIDGER, Vice Chargée de Presse

AT SAINT JACQUES French Cuisine on May 24, Owner/Chef/ Maître Rôtisseur Serge Falcoz-Vigne proved once again that the Chaîne’s professional members are dedicated to innovation and creativity. He paired fine Japanese sakes with foods native to North Carolina prepared using traditional French methods for the ultimate cultural fusion explosion. Tryon Distributing Direct Sales Manager Chris Martin presented information about the evening’s sakes to the fourteen Chef Theresa Norris, Owner/Chef/Maître Rôtisseur Serge Falcoz-Vigne, Officier Raj Parikh, and Tryon Distributing Direct Sales Manager Chris Martin. Triangle Mondiale members in attendance. The group first sampled the delicate Takasago Divine Droplets Junmai Daiginjo, which is the only sake to be drip-pressed in an igloo. The brewery is located in the coldest place in Japan—the Hokkaido prefecture. Attendees had previously tasted the next sake, Kaetsu Shuzo Bride of the Fox Junmai Ginjo, and were less than enthusiastic to revisit it. Imagine their delight when its culinary partner, sweet, creamy foie gras “sushi,” highlighted the rustic earthiness of the sake. Glasses were drained and exclamations of disbelief uttered. With the arrival of each food and sake pairing, attendees continued to enjoy the wonderful experience with a spirit that often seems challenging and is underappreciated for the complexity of flavor that it brings to the table. Kanpai! G

WASHINGTON, D.C. SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Traditional Beverages of Korea and China BY BILL BABASH, Vice Chargé de Presse

WASHINGTON, D.C. MONDIALE members spent the afternoon of May 19 at ChiKo exploring traditional beverages of Korea and China. Co-owned by Chefs Danny Lee and Scott Drewno, ChiKo was named one of the top ten restaurants in D.C. by the Washington Post and was a semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation’s “Best New Restaurant” award in 2018. Professionnel du Vin Christian Choi—ChiKo’s “soju sommelier”—led attendees on a journey through Asian food, drink, and tradition. The group particularly enjoyed makkoli—Korea’s national drink. Makkoli is an unfiltered, slightly effervescent fermented rice beverage that retains the rice’s milky color and substantive texture. Once viewed as “farmer’s wine,” the ancient beverage is now enjoying a resurgence in popularity for both its cultural tradition and health benefits. Soju followed. Like vodka, soju can be distilled from rice, wheat, barley, or other starches. However, as Professionnel du Vin Choi noted, with its own distinct taste and rituals, soju is not simply Korean vodka. The tasting began with a classic soju, then moved to delicious peach- and citrus-infused versions, and culminated with an artisanal Andong soju from South Korea’s North Gyeongsang Province. During the event, attendees were treated to an array of superb bites that perfectly complemented the libations. G

Vice Chargé de Presse Bill Babash, Bailli Judith Mazza, and Professionnel du Vin Christian Choi.

WINTER 2018

GASTRONOME

HILLSBOROUGH BAILLIAGE FLOATING ASSEMBLAGE 2019 Bailli Michael Kalkstein and the Hillsborough Bailliage Invite You to Sail from Montréal to Boston Date

Destination

Arrives

Aug 30

Montréal, Canada

5:00 PM

Aug 31

Québec, Canada

7:00 AM

Sep 1

Québec, Canada

6:00 PM

Sep 2

Scenic Cruising Saguenay Fjord 8:00 AM

Departs

(overnight)

Sep 2

Saguenay, Quebec, Canada

Sep 3

Cruising Gulf of St Lawrence

Sep 4

Cap-aux-Meules, Iles de la Madeleine, Quebec, Canada

10:00 AM 6:00 PM

Sep 5

Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada

8:00 AM

11:00 PM

Sep 6

Day at Sea

Sep 7

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

7:00 AM

2:00 PM

Sep 8

Bar Harbor, Maine

8:00 AM

5:00 PM

Sep 9

Provincetown, Massachusetts

8:00 AM

9:00 PM

Sep 10

Boston, Massachusetts

7:00 AM

CANADIAN MARITIMES & NEW ENGLAND AUGUST 30, 2019 | Montréal to Boston | 11 Days Celebrate International La Chaîne Camaraderie Aboard Seabourn Quest Unparalleled Hospitality, plus Culinary and Wine Delights! •

$500 per suite onboard spending credit

•

Complimentary premium wines, champagne and spirits served throughout the ship and in your suite

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Onboard La Chaîne Cocktail Reception, Dinners and Wine Tasting

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Confrères in selected ports are working to extend renowned La Chaîne International hospitality

•

Signature optional onshore programs available

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Special La Chaîne hotel packages will be offered in both Montréal and Boston by Travel Edge

•

Assistance with air is available upon request with Travel Edge Fares for preferred Verandah suites begin at $7,499 per person* Ask for other suite categories including larger luxury suites. Book early for best category selection! Port charges, taxes, fees are $440 additional per person. Travel Insurance is optional and highly recommended.

5:00 PM