Gastronome Extra! spring2017

SPRING 2017

Congratulations to Harold Small on his re-election to a second term as Bailli Délégué des Etats-Unis d’Amerique Regions YOUNG CHEFS & PASTRY COMPETITIONS

Bailliages LOCAL EVENTS

Members

AWARDS & ANNIVERSARIES

Philanthropy FOUNDATION FRIENDS

CONTENTS

27

11

19

15

31

3 A Message from the Editor-in-Chief • 4 Calendar • 5 Letter from the President Philanthropy :: 6 Foundation Friends Awards and Honors :: 7 Awards, Anniversaries, and In Memoriam Regions :: Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Pastry Competitions: 8 Northeast • 10 Hawaii/Pacific Islands • 12 Southwest 13 Far West • 14 Southeast • 16 Mid-Atlantic • 18 Pacific Northwest • 19 Midwest Bailliages :: 20 Events: Austin • Boston • Buffalo • Cincinnati • Colonial New England • Dallas • Delaware Valley • Denver Mile High Des Moines • Garden State • Hartford • Kansas City • La Grande Cave du New Jersey • Long Island • Michigan • New Jersey Newport Beach • Philadelphia • Pittsburgh • Rhode Island • Seattle • Springfield • Toledo • Tulsa • U.S. Virgin Islands

2

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

LETTER

A Message from the Editor-in-Chief The spring issue of GE! is typically filled with noteworthy stories about our regional competitions, and this one is no exception. We are delighted to report on the Southwest, Southeast, Northeast, Midwest, and Mid-Atlantic Regions’ Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Pastry Competitions and the Hawaii/ Pacific Islands, Far West, and Pacific Northwest Regions’ Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competitions.

Thank you to the regional chargés de presse who covered these events and wrote the stories.

In this issue, you will also find stories about local Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competitions and other chapter events. Check out the most recent awards and honors given to our members for their outstanding work and dedication. (Congratulations to all of you!)

From time to time, we are asked when local stories will appear in our publications. Here is a chart to help understand the timing.

Vice Chargés de Presse Submission Deadlines to Regional Chargés de Presse

Publication

Nov. 15 (2016) and Feb. 15 (2017)

GE! Spring 2017

Nov. 15 (2016) and Feb. 15 (2017)

Gastronome Vol. 2 2017

May 15 (2017) and Aug. 15 (2017)

GE! Fall 2017

May 15 (2017) and Aug. 15 (2017)

Gastronome Vol. 1 2018

Please note: GE! Spring 2017 and Gastronome Volume 2 2017 are linked—meaning the stories from the same two deadlines (Nov. 15, 2016 and Feb. 15, 2017) make up their content. The same principle is true for GE! Fall 2017 and Gastronome Volume 1 2018. Our editorial team chooses which stories will appear in which publication based on photo quality and story content.

Here’s to our incredible volunteers for making our publications worthy of our significant national organization—la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs des Etats-Unis.

Best regards,

Marie C. Addario Editor-in-Chief, Gastronome and Gastronome Extra!

Vice Chargée de Presse National Letters to the Editor-in-Chief may be sent to presse@chaineus.org OR c/o the Chaîne House at Fairleigh Dickinson University, 285 Madison Avenue, Madison, NJ 07940.

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

3

CALENDAR

CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS

GASTRONOME Extra!

Spring 2017

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

2017

Marie Addario

MAY PUBLISHER

4-7

NATIONAL CULINARY WEEKEND AND YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION Washington, D.C. Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or www.chaineus.org

18-21 NATIONAL SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN MEETING AND YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION Portland, Oregon Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or www.chaineus.org

Michelle Metter

ART & DESIGN

artattack!creative

MANAGING EDITOR

Carolyn March

JUNE 9-11

Published by the U.S. Confrérie de

NORTHEAST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE Providence, Rhode Island Contact: Rhode Island Bailli Paul Damiano at (401) 640-6800 or ri.chaine@yahoo.com

la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Copyright 2017 Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Ltd., a New York not-for-profit corporation.

All rights reserved. No part of this

15-18

INTERNATIONAL GENERAL ASSEMBLY Strasbourg, France Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or www.chaineus.org

JULY

periodical may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.

CONNECT TO

15-22

CHAÎNE SEADREAM MEDITERRANEAN YACHT CLUB CRUISE

Venice to Dubrovnik Contact: Marciela Prayther at (800) 338-4962 (ext. 8362) or www.vacationstogo.com/Chaine2017Cruise

GASTRONOME

SEPTEMBER 22-24

HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE Oahu, Hawaii Contact: Honolulu Bailli Kimi Matar at (808) 728-6002 or Chaine.Hawaii@gmail.com

OCTOBER

12-15

4

::

U.S. GRAND CHAPITRE Chicago, Illinois Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200 or www.chaineus.org

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

ON THE COVER: Bailli Délégué des Etats-Unis Harold Small, photographed by Lorenzo Tassone.

LETTER

Letter from the President Dear Chaîne Members, I recently expressed thanks to National Council members for re-electing me to a second three-year term as your Bailli Délégué. This is my first opportunity to thank you as well. Thank you for being a part of this wonderful Chaîne family and participating in the hundreds of events throughout our Bailliage des Etats-Unis. Our national election occurs every three years, and is in process now as the other national officer elections are incomplete. An announcement of results will be sent to you in late May. 2016 and the beginning of 2017 are now in the rearview mirror. We are looking forward to an amazing 2017 and have also begun planning for 2018-2020.

While writing this, I am reminded of the upcoming Culinary Weekend and National Young Chefs Competition Finals in Chevy Chase, Maryland, our Mondiale Weekend and National Young Sommeliers Competition Finals in Portland, Oregon, and the Northeast Regional Assemblage in Providence, Rhode Island. Check our website, access the registration materials, and sign up to attend one or all. Our next Grand Chapitre will be in October, and registration materials will be accessible as soon as they become available (probably late May or early June).

Our website has been totally redone! Its formal launch will soon be announced by Chargée de Presse National Michelle Metter. She and the team involved in the changes have worked tirelessly for many months to create this new image of the Chaîne on the web. It is available for your access 24/7 and will have additional improvements made to it during the coming months. You can share our membership brochure with prospective members, learn about travel opportunities, and expand your culinary travel adventures.

The Chaîne’s operations are dependent mostly upon an “all-volunteer army”; lots of members doing many things for the benefit of others. I would like to take this opportunity to express thanks to all of our officers, with special thanks to those whose terms end June 30. Thank you for helping to better the Chaîne in so many ways. There are too many of you to name and so many things that you have done that cannot be fully expressed because of space limitations. Thank you on behalf of the entire organization and its members!

We look forward to being with many of you in Chevy Chase, Portland, and then in Chicago at a Chaînetastic Grand Chapitre.

Vive la Chaîne!

Harold S. Small Bailli Délégué National

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

5

FOUNDATION FRIENDS

Endowments L Marie and Dominick Addario Endowed Fund L L Clyde Braunstein Endowed Fund L L Barbara and John Burson Endowed Fund L L Robert and Nadine Pressner Endowed Fund L L Barbara and Irwin Weinberg Endowed Fund L

Annual Gifts Anonymous Yam Atallah Bruce Bailey Judith Bardwick Michael Belsly Charles Bennett Jeffrey Blitz Harry Bradbury Hélène Burris Barbara Burson John Burson Antonio Busalacchi Helen Cappuccino Keith Chappell Young Chappell William Collins Rufus Cressend Bert Cutino Bertrand de Boutray William Eckerle George Elliott Susan Esson Ira Falk Ray Farris II Barbara Fodor Dalia Glottmann

Lois Gogol Stanley Gogol David Greenlee Paul Haar Jerry Harrington Michael Hess Allyson Hirsh Burton H. Hobson Hospitality Culinaire, Inc. Gabor Huszar Robin Jacobs Elan Jacoby Leslie Jones Michael Kalkstein Matthew Karstetter Cheryl Kenny Steve Kenny Gerald Kraft Jill Kummer* Bruce Liebert John Magauran Shelly Margolis J.T.Mayer Sharon McCarthy & Banfi Vintners Foundation

Theo Mellion Robert Miller Sandi Moran Thomas Moran Marcelo Obén Reimund Pitz Nancy Radlauer Ingrid Raiser Marie Robb Mon Roldan William Salomon M. Ann Sanford Harold S. Small Joel Spiro Mont Stern Bryan Stirrat Jeanne Stirrat Melanie Talia Brian Thorne Michael Ty Thomas Wahl Audrey Weaver David Weinberg Renee Wilmeth David Wilson William Wortman, Jr.

*In memory of Peter Hanowich NOTE: Endowments of $10,000 or more will be maintained as principal with only yearly income supporting the purposes of the Foundation. Donors will be acknowledged in perpetuity. Donations received after April 21, 2017 will be included in the next issue of Gastronome and Gastronome Extra!

6

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

AWARDS, HONORS & MEDALS

CONSEIL D’HONNEUR

In Memoriam

DAVID WILSON, Newport Beach Bailli

CHAÎNE STARS of EXCELLENCE

JEROME D. ADNER, (Buffalo) Chambellan National Honoraire

GOLD ���������������������������������������������������������������������� JILL KUMMER, Pittsburgh Bailli

LESLIE CAROL BLAIR, Oklahoma City Vice Chargée de Presse

CLARK ATKINSON III, San Francisco Bailli Honoraire F. NEWELL BOHNETT, Hawaii Island Chevalier

RENEE WILMETH, Midwest Bailli Provincial

RICHARD C. BURNSTINE, Chicago Vice Chancelier-Argentier Honoraire SILVER �������������������������������������������������������������������� LESLIE BARTOSH, Southwest Conseiller Culinaire Provincial STUART GOLDBERG, Mid-Atlantic Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial/Baltimore Bailli

ROBERT CREW CAWLEY, Central Alabama Bailli LEO P. DEAN, Albany Chevalier SCOTT DEASY, Philadelphia Chevalier CYRIL I. EVIAN, Philadelphia Vice Echanson

STEVEN LUSTIG, Santa Fe Bailli

WILLIAM G. GOFF, JR., Las Vegas Chevalier

CRAIG SURDY, Palm Springs Bailli

ROBERT J. HASL, Cincinnati Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Honoraire

ROGER WEATHERBURN-BAKER, Naples Bailli

KARLHEINZ WOLFGANG HUTH, Miami Chevalier JAMES A. HYDE, Oklahoma City Vice Chargé de Presse Honoraire

BRONZE ������������������������������������������������������������������ TRACY DURANT, Myrtle Beach Dame de la Chaîne

MONDIALE MEDALS of HONOR

IRA KAPLAN, Colonial New England Chevalier JOHN ALFRED KIRCHGRABER, Buffalo Chevalier JOHN H.O. LA GATTA, Reno Chevalier CHAUNCEY CARTER MAHER III, Springfield Chevalier

BRONZE �������������������������������������������������������������������� PHILIP SCHMITT, Bonita Vice Echanson

RICHARD H.M. MAIDMAN, New York Officier

REUBEN TIPTON, Myrtle Beach Vice Echanson

THOMAS J. MUELLER, Cincinnati Chevalier

CHRISTIAN VARAS, Houston Vice Echanson

HEINZ T. NAEF, Members-at-Large, Vice Chargé de Missions Honoraire

ARTHUR MCGREEVY, New Jersey Officier Maître Rôtisseur

JEFFREY A. SCHLAFLY, Pittsburgh Chef Rôtisseur

BRILLAT-SAVARIN MEDALS

PHILIP SELDON, New York Chevalier

ACADÉMICIEN MEDAL �������������������������������������������� JOSEPH BONAPARTE, Myrtle Beach Chef Rôtisseur

J. MICHAEL STEWART, Albuquerque Vice ­Chancelier-Argentier RICHARD A. WILSON, (Reno) Far West Echanson Provincial

Happy Anniversary!

Bailliages Celebrating Milestone Anniversaries in 2017 …… 50 YEARS ……

…… 40 YEARS ……

…… 30 YEARS ……

Connecticut Miami Milwaukee Washington, D.C. Wichita

Maui Monterey Peninsula Napa-Sonoma (formerly Napa Valley)

Central Coast Laguna Reno Rochester San Diego Triangle

Thank you for your years of honoring the art of cuisine, preserving the camaraderie and culture of the table, promoting excellence in all areas of hospitality, and encouraging the development of young chefs and sommeliers.

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

7

REGIONS

Competitors: Diana Parra Gonzales, Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition winner Christopher Viaud, Jonathan Culbert, Molly Doherty, Tara Nunez (Pastry Competition winner), Mark Garcia, and Matt Holton.

NORTHEAST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS AND PASTRY COMPETITIONS

The Magnificent Seven

BY HELEN CAPPUCCINO, Northeast Chargée de Presse Provincial/Buffalo Bailli

SCCC Culinary/Hospitality School Dean/Albany Chef Rôtisseur David Brough, SCCC Assistant Professor/Albany Chef Rôtisseur Mike Stamets, and SUNY Cobleskill Chef-Instructor/Albany Chef Rôtisseur David Campbell.

Pastry Competition winner Tara Nunez’s entry.

8

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

ON THE UNSEASONABLY warm day of February 18, competitors from across the Northeast Region gathered at Schenectady County Community College for the region’s Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Pastry Competitions, hosted by Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Yono Purnomo. New Hampshire, Boston, Brooklyn, Buffalo, Albany, and Saratoga Springs were represented. Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Purnomo and his wife, Donna Purnomo, graciously provided room and board for attendees.

A challenging mystery basket containing celery root, quinoa, asparagus, flounder, duck, and shrimp awaited the five contestants in the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition, while the two pastry competitors could bring their own equipment and ingredients to create a cake, bonbons, truffles, a plated dessert, and a pastry.

The judges included Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National Michael Ty; Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Purnomo; Albany Chef Rôtisseur Joan Dembinski; SCCC Assistant Professor/Albany Chef Rôtisseur Mike Stamets; SCCC Culinary/Hospitality School Dean/Albany Chef Rôtisseur David Brough; SUNY Cobleskill Chef-Instructor/Albany Chef Rôtisseur David Campbell; Albany Chef Rôtisseur Jose Arteche; and SCCC Chef-Instructor Kim Otis.

The kitchen judges evaluated the young chefs on technique, organizational skills, professionalism, cleanliness, and creative use of the products, while the tasting judges scored their dishes on taste, presentation, and originality.

The contestants remained composed and professional throughout the day, even with the added stress of a brief power outage. Though the scores were extremely close, ultimately second-time competitor Christopher Viaud—chef de cuisine at Cabonnay—prevailed. The Johnson & Wales University-educated chef was nominated by Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli Marshall Berenson and

REGIONS

Pastry competitor Molly Doherty.

Pastry Competition winner Tara Nunez and competitor Molly Doherty.

sponsored by the Cabonnay ownership team. He will go on to compete in the National Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition in May. Earning bronze medals were Diana Parra Gonzales, chef de cuisine at Casa Azul in Buffalo; Mark Garcia, chef de partie at Empellon in New York; Matt Holton, line cook at Comfort Kitchen in Saratoga Springs; and Jon Culbert, chef de partie at Salt & Char in Saratoga Springs.

In the pastry competition, Tara Nunez, prep/pastry cook at Fish at 30 Lake in Saratoga Springs took the silver, while Molly Doherty, bread baker at Elm Street Bakery in East Aurora, New York, and an Erie Community College student, took the bronze. Tara Nunez was nominated

by Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Purnomo and Molly Doherty by Buffalo Chef Rôtisseur Mark Wright.

A champagne reception and light lunch made the subsequent awards ceremony all the more festive for those in attendance. G

Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition winner Christopher Viaud.

Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Yono Purnomo and Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National Michael Ty.

Albany Chef Rôtisseur Jose Arteche, Albany Maître Rôtisseur Michael Niccoli, and Albany Chef Rôtisseur Joan Dembinski.

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

9

REGIONS

Maui Bailliage members.

HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION

Taking on the Challenge

BY JUDITH KELLOGG, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chargée de Presse Provincial

ORGANIZING A REGIONAL Young Chefs Rôtisseurs competition is a monumental undertaking, and this year, the Culinary Institute of the Pacific at the University of Hawaii, Maui College took on the task. The diligent preparation paid off with a flawless day on February 25, beginning with the competitors’ hard work in the kitchen and ending with a celebratory dinner in a beautiful tropical setting.

Chambellan Provincial/Maui Bailli Honoraire Chris Speere, who is with the college’s Maui Food Innovation Center, hosted the event.

As a former culinary professor and organizer of three previous Young Chefs Rôtisseurs competitions, he was up to the job. Newly elevated Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Vikram Garg oversaw his first such competition, welcoming the opportunity to mentor promising talent.

Although the judges were exacting and candid, they viewed the competition as a confidence builder for the young chefs, with a primary goal of encouraging them to welcome new challenges. Culinary Institute of the Pacific Chef-Instructor Kane Carbonneau served as kitchen judge. The tasting judges were Executive Chef Gary Johnson of Hāna Ranch Provisions; Owner/Chef Christopher Schobel of Fat Daddy’s Smokehouse; Partner/Chef Roger Stettler of Taverna in Maui; and Culinary Institute of the Pacific at Kapiolani Community College Professor Alan Tsuchiyama, CEC, CHE. Of course, the stars of the day were the competitors. In a tough 10

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

competition, Sean Uyehara prevailed. He had just two weeks to prepare after returning from the regional American Culinary Federation competition, where his team won and advanced to the national competition.

But that won’t be his only national competition; as the Hawaii/Pacific Islands Regional winner, he will compete against other regional winners for the national title in May. After discovering his passion for cooking while in high school, he enrolled in the culinary arts program at Kapiolani Community College. He also works at Vino Italian Tapas & Wine Bar, where his favorite task is making fresh pasta.

Runners-up were Aldrin Jay Arellano and Motley Adovas.

But the day was not all work, and the young chefs were able to relax that evening at the Mill House restaurant on the Maui Tropical Plantation. Chambellan Provincial Speere and Maui Bailli Adele Rugg organized the celebration. The ambiance for a farm-to-table experience was enhanced by chickens and ducks occasionally wandering into the dining area. That said, the preparations comprising Executive Chef Jeff Scheer’s innovative, nine-course “chef’s table” menu were hardly “down home.”

This intense, fascinating day was a reminder that beyond the pleasures of the table provided by the Chaîne, a dedicated mission is inspiring and supporting the next generation of master chefs. G

PHOTOS BY BRUCE LIEBERT

REGIONS

Maui Bailli Adele Rugg and Mill House Executive Chef Jeff Scheer.

Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Vikram Garg, Maui Bailli Adele Rugg, Winner Sean Uyehara, Competitor Aldrin Jay Arellano, Competitor Motley Adovas, and Bailli Provincial Bruce Liebert.

Sean Uyehara’s Winning Menu Culinary Institute of the Pacific February 25, 2017 PAN-SEARED KAMPACHI Shrimp Croquette, Lemon Risotto, Basil Pesto, Tomato Relish PAN-ROASTED CHICKEN Mustard Gnocchi, Hamakua Mushrooms, Pickled Hearts of Palm, Red Wine Reduction CHOCOLATE FLAN Honey-Cinnamon Bread Pudding, Kula Strawberry Coulis, Whipped Mascarpone

Winner Sean Uyehara.

Maui Professionnel de la Table Thomas Kafsack and Chambellan Provincial Chris Speere.

Chef-Instructor Tom Lelli, Chambellan Provincial Chris Speere, Kitchen Judge/Chef-Instructor Kane Carbonneau, Chef-Instructor Craig Omori, and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Vikram Garg.

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

11

PHOTOS BY LESLIE BARTOSH, VIVIAN RAY, AND KATHY SHAY

REGIONS

Nao Latin Gastro Bar Culinary Institute of America March 4, 2017 TUNA Ajo Blanco, Charred Grape, Cucumber, Almond

Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Leslie Bartosh, Bailli Délégué National Harold Small, Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition winner Brandon Tucker, and Denver Mile High Bailli Allison Ahrens.

Austin Bailli Dennis Shay and Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition winner Brandon Tucker.

QUINCE-SHERRY-GLAZED PORK BELLY Stewed White Bean, Piquillo Pepper

OCTOPUS A LA PLANCHA Celery Root Salsa Verde, Anchovy-Stuffed Olive

GRILLED LAMB CHOPS Romesco, Chickpeas, Charred Spring Onions

CHURROS Stewed Sweet Plantains, Dulce de Leche, Dark Chocolate Sauce, Coriander Whipped Cream

Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Leslie Bartosh (center) with young chefs.

SOUTHWEST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS AND PASTRY COMPETITIONS

Something for Everyone

BY KATHY SHAY, Southwest Chargée de Presse Provincial

San Antonio Bailli Hon. Fernando Salazar, Pastry Contestant/ Galveston Chef Rôtisseur Mary Eisenhour-Bass, Pastry Winner/San Antonio Rôtisseur Connie Thomas, Pastry Contestant/San Antonio Rôtisseur Jessica Valero, and Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon.

Pastry contestant/San Antonio Rôtisseur Jessica Valero.

12

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

DESPITE THE TORRENTIAL rain in beautiful San Antonio on March 4, Southwest Chaîne members found plenty to do indoors. What better way to spend the day than with young chefs competing for regional honors, fellow confrères cheering them on, and new baillis learning the organization’s traditions from Bailli Délégué National Harold Small.

Five young chefs competed in the Southwest Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition, while three pastry chefs tested their skills in the Pastry Competition.

That evening, the group enjoyed a luscious Spanish meal at the Culinary Institute of America’s Nao Latin Gastro Bar, where Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon presented Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Leslie Bartosh with a well-deserved Silver Star of Excellence. In addition, Chargée de Presse Provincial Kathy Shay was elevated.

The announcements were made after dinner. With much ado, Brandon Tucker of Mizuna restaurant was proclaimed the winner. He will advance to the national competition in Washington, D.C. in May His proud sponsor, Denver Mile High Bailli Allison Ahrens, was on hand for the celebration. San Antonio Rôtisseur Connie Thomas took home the gold for her sweet creations.

As always, confrères relished the experience of fine food, wine, and friends, but with the added bonus of encouraging young chefs to perpetuate the traditions that the Chaîne holds so dear. G

REGIONS

UVU Culinary Arts Institute Department Chair/Salt Lake City Chef Rôtisseur Peter Sproul (far left), pastry competitors, and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Robert Phillips (far right).

Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Robert Phillips, Bailli Provincial Bryan Stirrat, and USC Hospitality Department Executive Chef/Los Angeles Maître Rôtisseur Eric Ernest.

UVU Culinary Arts Institute Department Chair/Salt Lake City Chef Rôtisseur Peter Sproul (far left), Young Chefs Rôtisseurs competitors, and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Robert Phillips (far right).

FAR WEST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS AND PASTRY COMPETITIONS

Cooking to Impress

BY BRYAN STIRRAT, Far West Bailli Provincial

THE FAR WEST Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Pastry Competitions took place on March 10 at the Utah Valley University Culinary Arts Institute. Six contestants competed in the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition and four in the pastry contest.

UVU Culinary Arts Institute Department Chair/Salt Lake City Chef Rôtisseur Peter Sproul hosted the event. Conseiller Culinaire Provinical Robert Phillips, with assistance from Vice Conseiller Culinaire National Michael Ty and Bailli Provincial Bryan Stirrat, organized the ­competitions.

The kitchen judges were Salt Lake City Chef Rôtisseur Lyn Wells, winner of the 2016 national competition; UVU Chef-Instructor John Thomas; Executive Pastry Chef Adalberto Diaz; and USC Hospitality Department Executive Chef/Los Angeles Maître Rôtisseur Eric Ernest.

The tasting judges were Vice Conseiller Culinaire National Ty, Salt Lake City Vice Chargé de Presse Martin Perham, UVU Chef-Instructor Troy Wilson, Salt Lake City Officier Chef Rôtisseur Franz Kubak, and UVU Chef-Instructor Peter Hodgson.

Michelle Stephenson, who won the savory competition, will advance to the national contest in Washington, D.C. Pastry competition winner Gregory Baumgartner’s score will be compared with those of other regional winners to determine the winner of the National Pastry Competition.

Other highlights included the induction of Chef Ernest as a Los Angeles maître rôtisseur and the presentation of a $5,000 check from the Chaîne Foundation to UVU for culinary scholarships. G SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

13

REGIONS

SE judges and sponsors.

Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Bruce Ozga, Winner Ariel Pollares, Chargée de Presse Provincial Jennifer Denlinger, and Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer.

Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Bruce Ozga, Winner Kevin Meir, and Chargée de Presse Provincial Jennifer Denlinger.

SOUTHEAST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS AND PASTRY COMPETITIONS

The Southeast’s Best Young Chefs

BY JENNIFER DENLINGER, Southeast Chargée de Presse Provincial

SPRING HERALDS NEW hope, new life, new dreams. And that’s exactly what the Southeast Region’s top young chefs and pastry chefs had in mind when they bravely stepped into the kitchens at Johnson & Wales University, Miami Campus on March 25.

In the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition, six young chefs vied for the chance to represent the Southeast Region in the national competition in Washington, D.C. in May. The festivities got underway on Friday evening with a reception hosted by Johnson & Wales chefs and teaching assistants. Attendees mixed and mingled while enjoying delicious food and touring the facility’s kitchens and classrooms.

The competition started early Saturday morning. The competitors’ 14

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

anticipation was palpable as they opened their mystery baskets to find fennel, parsnips, lentils, coconut milk, capers, dried cherries, duck, and red snapper. They also had access to standard pantry items for use in creating their appetizers, entrées, and desserts.

Sanitation, organization, time management, and grace under pressure are required of the young chefs during the competition. All great chefs have mastered these challenges as part of their training.

The six contestants were Alexander Kuzin, Daniel Wernz, Sebastian Marrow, Jake Consultas, Ariel Pollares, and last year’s champion, Kevin Meier, who returned to defend his title.

“Competing has made me a better chef overall,” noted

REGIONS

Competitor Daniel Wernz.

Daniel Wernz, who is also a seasoned competitor.

While this contest was in full swing, the two pastry chefs began their equally rigorous competition. Each was required to produce a decorated layer cake, a plated dessert with multiple components, a pastry, twelve chocolate truffles, and twelve molded and filled bonbons.

The competitors were Pastry Chefs-Instructors Kimberly Barry from the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale and Michael Angnardo from Johnson & Wales.

The panel of accomplished judges was comprised of Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National Rene Marquis; Chef Collen Engle, culinary chair of Miami Dade College; Chargée de Presse Provincial Jennifer Denlinger; Chef Jeannette Stefan-Ozga, academic coordinator at San Ignacio University; Executive Chef Douglas Sick of

Competitor Sebastian Marrow.

the Williams Island Club; Miami Vice Conseiller Culinaire Honoraire Gaetano Ascione, executive chef at Spasso restaurant in Miami; and Chef Justin Yearwood, regional sales manager for Albert Uster Imports Fine Foods.

At the end of the long day, the contestants lined up to receive the judges’ feedback and learn the results of their hard work. Michael Angnardo was declared the winner of the pastry competition. However, the talent and versatility displayed by two contestants in the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition created a dilemma for the judges.

Ultimately, they decided it was too close to call and opted to have both Kevin Meier and Ariel Pollares represent the Southeast Region in the national competition in Washington, D.C. in May. Congratulations to the winning chefs and to all of the day’s competitors! G SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

15

REGIONS

MA local and regional officers.

MID-ATLANTIC REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS AND PASTRY COMPETITIONS

Carrying the Culinary Torch

BY PERCY NIKORA, Mid-Atlantic Chargé de Presse Provincial

Washington, D.C. Bailli Judith Mazza and Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition winner Lydia Ross.

16

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

FOR THE CHAÎNE to continue its longstanding culinary traditions, it is important to have talented young chefs continuously rising through the ranks. The Mid-Atlantic Region is blessed to have many gifted young chefs.

On March 25, six of these individuals and two pastry chefs competed in the region’s Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Pastry Competitions at the Stratford University School of Hospitality & Culinary Arts in Baltimore.

The event ran like clockwork due to the excellent planning of Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Raimund Hofmeister, CMC. The Young Chefs Rôtisseurs competitors were given three hours to prepare an appetizer, entrée, and dessert from mystery-basket items that included shrimp, oxtail, veal sweetbreads, smoked turkey neck, gooseberries, and Asian pear. They drew on their creativity and knowledge to produce dishes that were pleasing to both eye and palate.

Judging their kitchen performances were food writer Dara Bunjon; Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial/Baltimore Bailli Stuart Goldberg; and Washington, D.C. Bailli Judith Mazza. The tasting judges, who scored

PHOTOS BY ARTHUR B. HAWKINS III, THE IMAGE FACKTORY GROUPE, AND PERCY NIKORA

REGIONS

Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial/Baltimore Bailli Stuart Goldberg and Chambellan Provincial Peter Caporilli.

Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition contestants.

Bailli Provincial elect John Fannin III and Bailli Provincial Robin Jacobs.

the young chefs on presentation, creativity, and taste, included Baltimore Vice Conseiller Culinaire Rich Hoffman, CEC, CCA; Chef Shawn Harlan, CEC; Chef Jake Fatica, CEC; and Chef Errol LeBlanc.

The judges for the Pastry Competition were Maître Rôtisseur Susan Notter, CEPC; Pastry Chef Gunther Heiland, CMPC; and Baltimore Maître Rôtisseur Jan Bandula, CMPC. Following the competitions, attendees gathered for the awards ceremony. Lydia Ross won the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition and will advance to the national contest in Washington, D.C. in May. Heidi Kabath took first place in the Pastry Competition.

One highlight of the event was Bailli Provincial Robin Jacobs’s presentation of a Silver Star of Excellence to Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial/Bailli Goldberg. In addition, a check for $5,000 from the Chaîne Foundation was presented to Stratford University for culinary scholarships.

The group enjoyed a scrumptious meal prepared by culinary students and chef-instructors. Before departing, all in attendance applauded the commendable efforts of the competitors as well as the Stratford University’s students and faculty. G

Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Raimund Hofmeister, CMC.

Pastry Competition winner Heidi Kabath.

Atlantic City Bailli Ted Lippman, Stratford University Executive Vice President Mary Ann Shurtz, and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Hon. François Dionot.

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

17

REGIONS

Judge/San Francisco Vice Echanson Sal Campagna.

Bailli Provincial Bertrand de Boutray, Competitors Bryan Therk, Jeff Henry, Aaron Kinley, Taylor Pagano, Winner Minjieh Jason Yu, and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Herve Le Biavant.

Bailli Provincial Bertrand de Boutray, Winner Minjieh Jason Yu, and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Herve Le Biavant.

Judges.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION

Culinary Pride and Promise

BY ROBIN DU BRIN, Pacific Northwest Chargée de Presse Provincial, AND BERTRAND DE BOUTRAY, Bailli Provincial

ON MARCH 25, the Art Institute of California, San Francisco hosted the Pacific Northwest Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition, which was perfectly orchestrated by Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Herve Le Biavant. The five talented competitors were Aaron Kinley, Jeffrey Henry, Bryan Therk, Taylor Pagano, and Minjieh Jason Yu. Kudos to Seattle Bailli Robert Cugini for his chapter’s successful local competition in February. Eight promising young chefs competed, with two advancing to this competition. Bailli Cugini will present information about his program at the region’s mini-assemblage in May. Hopefully, other chapters will be inspired to identify qualified candidates to compete in future regional and national competitions.

The seven tasting judges were San Francisco Vice Echanson Sal Campagna; California Culinary Academy Professor Serge Bled; San 18

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

Francisco Maître Rôtisseur Jay Marshall; L’Artisan Macaron Owner/Chef Alex Trouan; Portland Maître Rôtisseur Randy Torres; San Francisco Vice Conseiller Culinaire Honoraire Gary Prell; and Seattle Officier Michele Heidt. Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Le Biavant, AI-SF ChefInstructor Brian Shulse, and Chef David Jones, CEC, CHE, served as kitchen judges.

After much deliberation, Minjieh Jason Yu—a sous-chef at the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay—was declared the winner. Congratulations and good luck to him as he advances to the national competition.

Special thanks to Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Le Biavant, the judges, and the young chefs, who represent a promising future for the culinary arts. G

REGIONS

Pastry Competition winner William Racin.

Conseiller Gastronomique National Hon. Roger Tracy, Bailli Délégué National Harold Small, Pittsburgh Bailli Jill Kummer, Rev. Canon James Shoucair, and Chicago Bailli Hon. Jane Tracy.

MIDWEST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS AND PASTRY COMPETITIONS

New Generation of Talent

BY ANN KOLINER, Pittsburgh Vice Chargée de Presse

THE MIDWEST REGIONAL Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Pastry Competitions were both held on March 25 at the American Academy of Culinary Arts at the Pittsburgh Technical College. Pittsburgh Bailli Jill Kummer; Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Chris Koetke, CEC, CCE, HAAC; Pittsburgh Vice Conseiller Culinaire Rikk Panzera, CEC, CEC; and AACA Chef Director/Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Honoraire Norman Hart, CEC, CCE, ACC, hosted these prestigious competitions.

The five contestants in the Young Chefs Competition were Nick Ellison (Cincinnati), Anthony Trunzo (Pittsburgh), Logan Christensen (St. Louis), Brian Uribe (Chicago), and Anthony Nace (Des Moines).

They were given identical mystery baskets containing required ingredients to create a three-course meal.

Competing in the Pastry Competition were William Racin of the Duquesne Club in Pittsburgh and Siddharth Mangalore of Chicago’s Kendall College. The pastry chefs were required to produce a decorated cake, a plated dessert, a pastry, chocolate truffles, and molded, chocolate-filled bonbons. Chaîne professional members and gastronomes served as judges, critiquing the competitors’ kitchen skills and food preparations.

Anthony Nace prevailed in the Young Chefs Competition and will advance to the national competition in Washington, D.C. in May. William Racin took top honors in the Pastry Competition.

The Pittsburgh Bailliage, under Bailli Kummer’s leadership, and the AACA were privileged to facilitate these competitions and participate in the development of the newest generation of talented chefs. G

Cindy Tauberg, Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth, and Chevalier Jim Tauberg.

Young Chefs Competition winner Anthony Nace.

AACA Chef Director/Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Hon. Norman Hart, CEC, CCE, ACC, and Pittsburgh Technical College Executive Vice President George Pry.

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

19

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY SUE FLISCHEL

CINCINNATI

MCI Professor/Chef Rôtisseur Alan Neace, Bronze Medalist John Solimine, Gold Medalist Nick Ellison, Bailli George Elliot, Chaîne Culinary Scholarship Winner/Silver Medalist Tyra Watkins, and Vice Chargé de Missions Clint Haynes.

Local Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition

BY IRWIN WEINBERG, Midwest Chambellan Provincial/Cincinnati Bailli Honoraire

Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Hon. Irwin Weinberg, Chaîne Culinary Scholarship Winner/Silver Medalist Tyra Watkins, and Dame Barbara Weinberg.

Tasting judges Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Marilyn Harris and Chef Jean-Robert de Cavel.

20

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

ON NOVEMBER 6, Cincinnati Bailliage members assembled at the Midwest Culinary Institute at Cincinnati State Technical and Community College for the chapter’s ninth annual Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. Each of the twelve young chefs competing had ninety Summit Restaurant minutes to prepare an Midwest Culinary Institute entrée and dessert for November 6, 2016 the judges to evaluate.

SWEETBREAD AND LOBSTER Under the ausCeleriac Purée, Country Ham Broth, Apple, Celery, Black Truffle pices of MCI Professor/ Chef Rôtisseur Alan DRY-AGED BEEF Farm Egg, Carolina Gold Rice, Koji, Neace, as well as two Squash, Gochujang, Benne Seeds floor judges and four DRUNKEN BANANA CAKE tasting judges, Nick Whipped Butterscotch, Chocolate, Pappy Van Winkle Maple Syrup, Ellison—a sous-chef Brown Butter Ice Cream for the Jeff Ruby Restaurant Group— took top honors for an unprecedented third time. He will go on to compete in the Midwest Regional Competition on March 25.

The group celebrated that evening at MCI’s Summit Restaurant. At the reception, attendees sampled assorted quality wines brought from confrères’ personal cellars.

Visiting celebrity chef Kevin Ashworth—an MCI graduate who is currently executive chef at 610 Magnolia Restaurant in Louisville—prepared a delicious dinner that exceeded the expectations of those who had been eagerly anticipating it.

Attendees agreed that in celebrating the pleasures of the table as well as up-and-coming culinary professionals, the event epitomized the spirit of the Chaîne. G

BAILLIAGES

Local Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition

PHOTOS BY GREG CHAN

SEATTLE

Officier Michele Heidt (in red), winner Taylor Pagano (fourth from left) Bailli Robert Cugini (center), judges, and contestants.

BY CAROLINE HAZZARD GOEDHART, Dame de la Chaîne, AND MICHELE HEIDT, Officier

ON FEBRUARY 25, the Seattle Bailliage sponsored its annual local Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition at Renton Technical College.

Nineteen talented young chefs competed, with the top two winners going on to represent the Seattle Chapter in the Pacific Northwest Regional competition on March 25.

The five professional judges were Maître Rôtisseur Mark Bodinet, executive chef of Copperleaf Restaurant; Executive Chef Bruno Feldeisen of Semiahmoo Resort; ChefEntrepreneur Jason Wilson; Executive Chef Tamas Ronyai of Wing Point Golf & Country Club; and Chef JJ Meland of Bates Technical College. In the interest of helping the young chefs improve their skills, the judges critiqued their dishes and answered their questions.

At the end of the long day, Officier Michele Heidt announced the winners, and Bailli Robert Cugini presented the awards.

Taking top honors was Taylor Pagano from Tavolàta, an Ethan Stowell Restaurant. Second place went to Aaron Kinley from Semiahmoo Resort, and third place to Sean Wornstaff from Copperleaf Restaurant. It was an excellent learning experience for all of the competitors, many of whom had family and friends there to support them.

The event was a tremendous success thanks to the leadership of Officier Heidt and Renton’s wonderful culinary arts program staff. G

Winner Taylor Pagano.

Second-place winner Aaron Kinley.

Third-place winner Sean Wornstaff.

Contestants.

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

21

BAILLIAGES

AUSTIN

Class of 2017

BY KATHY SHAY, Southwest Chargée de Presse Provincial

Four Seasons Hotel September 24, 2016

Le Rochers des Violettes Touche Mitaine Montlouis Sur Loire 2013 PHEASANT COMSOMMÉ Chicken Quenelles, Blistered Corn, Tomato Diamonds Danjean-Berthoux Givry Premier Cru la Plante 2014

Officier Debra Larson and Dame Adela Aguilar.

DUCK BREAST Duck Jus, Braised Shallots, Wild Mushroom Risotto, Arugula Domaine de Mourchon Côtes du Rhône-Villages Tradition 2012 ROASTED BEEF TENDERLOIN Bordelaise Sauce, Truffled Custard Potatoes, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts Château Moulin de Mallet Merlot 2011 TARTES DE POMMES Almond Cream, Calvados Caramel

Bailli Dennis Shay and Vice ChancelierArgentier Steve Larson.

BOSTON

Nihon ni ikimasho ka?

BY MARSHALL L. BERENSON, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli

IZAKAYAS ARE A dining tradition in Japan that come in many shapes and formats dating back to the Edo period. Originally roadside taverns or sake bars offering simple snacks, over time they have evolved to offer “fast and slow” foods in a shared format similar to Iberian tapas. The imperial expansion of Japan in the 1930s and ’40s led to the export of izakayas to much of Asia and, more recently, beyond.

Dame Kerry Rosengarten, Pair Azmi Hajjaj, Chevalier Daniel Rosengarten, and Grand Officier Delores Hajjaj.

On August 16, Boston Bailliage members met at Hojoko in the recently renovated Verb Hotel. Owners/Chefs Tim and Nancy Cushman also own the award-winning O Ya sushi bar. Their take on izakayas was as whimsical as the venue name suggests: Hojoko roughly translates to “child of Hojo”—an homage to the iconic Howard Johnson eateries founded in Quincy, Massachusetts, in 1925. In fact, the Verb Hotel was formerly a Howard Johnson’s Maître Hôtelier Tedd Saunders, Ella Saunders, and Vice Chargé de motel that hosted visiting teams playing at Missions Todd Saunders.

Fenway Park. If there’s one thing the Boston Bailliage appreciates, it’s tradition, and the evening was a testament to that—new and old, local and far-reaching. G

22

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

PHOTOS BY MARSHALL BERENSON AND RICHARD DEAGAZIO

ON SEPTEMBER 24, Austin Bailliage members headed to a favorite venue, the Four Seasons Hotel, to enjoy a meal prepared by a favorite chef, Elmar Prambs. Why so many favorites at one event? To celebrate those being inducted or otherwise honored at what proved to be one of the largest induction ceremonies in the Austin Chapter’s history.

Chambellan Provincial Denise Valliant warmly greeted the group and gave an entertaining history of the Chaîne. With assistance from Bailli Dennis Shay and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Dan Buchanan, she inducted Chevaliers Obie Hasty, Boris Jezic, Patrick O’Rourke, and Jeff Robinson, and Dames de la Chaîne Diane Bergstrom, Lael Hasty, Elizabeth Mannion, Judy O’Rourke, Becky Robinson, and Shelby Schulz.

In addition, Steve Mannion became a maître rôtisseur; Vice ChancelierArgentier Charlie Eppright was elevated; and Dame de la Chaîne Sue Rondini was reinstated as a member.

Chef Prambs prepared a classic French menu with touches from his German heritage, including an incredible scallop “schnitzel” that had attendees inquiring about how to prepare this dish at home. Sommelier Rania Zayyat chose exceptional wines. One of the “Class of ’17” summed up the occasion best by declaring it “beyond wonderful!” G

SEA SCALLOPS “SCHNITZEL” Red Beets, Citrus Butter Sauce, Frisée

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH GEORGANTAS

BOSTON

“There Once Was a…”

BY MARSHALL L. BERENSON, Northeast Chambellan Provincial/Boston Bailli

There once was an isle called Nantucket, Where champagne was chilled in a bucket.

When Chaîne members gather Nervous oysters would rather Be left in the brine than be shuck-ed.

CRU Oyster Bar July 24, 2016 FIFTH BEND NANTUCKET OYSTERS Calvisius Siberian Royal Caviar Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé Reserve N.V. JONAH CRAB-AVOCADO SALAD Salmon Roe, Fines Herbes Château de Bligny Brut Rosé N.V.

BUFFALO

Great Chefs and the Dishes that Made Them Famous

BY KAREN SPERRAZZA, Vice Chargée de Presse

WHO WOULD THE Wicked Queen be without her apple? Would Little Miss Muffet be as enduring a character without her curds and whey? For a chef, having a signature dish is an important way to cement one’s place in culinary history.

Brad Kern, Lori Shepherd, Dame Lindsay Cornell, and Chevalier On January 29, at Daniels restaurant in Hamburg, New York, Buffalo Bailliage Dana Cornell. members gathered to celebrate six iconic chefs and the dishes that made them great. Owner/Executive Chef Scott Donhauser crafted a menu featuring the signature dishes of culinary powerhouses Thomas Keller, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Boulud, Grant Achatz, Paul Bocuse, Charlie Trotter, and Auguste Escoffier.

Daniels has been named a top restaurant in Western New York and a “Top 100 Romantic Restaurant” in the United States. Chef Donhauser, who holds the Chaîne in high regard, prides himself on using top-quality, farm-to-table ingredients and offering monthly communal chefs’ tables.

Enjoying even one of these dishes would be enough to delight any gourmand. The opportunity to experience seven, with expert wine pairings and characteristic Chaîne camaraderie, was a singular treat as Chef Donhauser and his team did justice to the gastronomic greats who Vice Chargée de Médias Sociaux Jacqueline Judi Stern and Chambellan Provincial Cappuccino and Vice Chargé de Missions E. inspired them. G Mont Stern.

Carey Cantwell

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

23

PHOTS BY KAREN SPERRAZZA AND HELEN CAPPUCCINO

POACHED ARCTIC CHAR IN HERMAN MELVILLE’S epic Moby-Dick, the little island is Potatoes, Egg, Calvisius Oscietra described as “Nantucket! Take out your map and look at it. See Royal Caviar, Hush Puppies, Honey Aleppo Butter what a real corner of the world it occupies; how it stands there, Pol Roger Brut Vintage 2004 away off shore...a mere hillock, and elbow of sand; all beach, withALMOND FINANCIÈRE out a background.”

Strawberries, Nectarine The fourteen-mile-long island, once a refuge for persecuted Marchesi di Barolo Zagara Quakers, is now a summer retreat for the global elite. And as sumMoscato d’Asti 2014 mer brings a certain joie de vivre to this island—sand between toes, the smell of sunscreen, straw mats, saltwater—what better time of year for Boston Bailliage members to enjoy a champagne, shellfish, and caviar brunch at Nantucket’s celebrated CRU Oyster Bar? On July 24, Partner/ Executive Chef Erin Zircher and her team created a menu showcasing the chef’s French and Mediterranean culinary roots. After savoring caviar and oysters served with magnificent champagnes, Bellinis, and Bloody Marys, the party continued off to the beach and into the warm Nantucket night. G

BAILLIAGES

COLONIAL NEW ENGLAND

Visiting a Neighborhood Gem

Bistro 5 October 23, 2016

BY CAROLE DORRIS, Vice Chargée de Presse Chevalier Nat Brown, Jr., Pam Brown, Boston Vice Chargé de Missions Daniel Rosengarten, and Chevalier Nat Brown, Sr.

ON OCTOBER 23, the Colonial New England Bailliage went off the beaten path to Bistro 5 in Medford, Massachusetts, to savor the talents of Owner/Chef Vittorio Ettore and Chef de Cuisine Jonathan Jolicoeur. While Chaîne members clearly admire chefs that take pride in and are passionate about their food, attendees were riveted as Chef Ettore explained what went into the design of this amazing meal. Each dish was a work of art, but the squash and lobster bisque stood out as a masterpiece.

The chef’s creativity was further showcased in the delicious dessert comprised of an unlikely combination of Cathy Trefethen, John Trefethen, and Vice Chancelieringredients: caramel, corn gelato, popcorn, rum raisins, and Argentier Hon. Donald Raymond. cake crumbs. The accompanying La Sabbiona Giulia Passito Albana 2012 had plenty of fruit and just the right sweetness to balance the dessert.

As half of the attendees were guests, the event was also a wonderful way to introduce potential members to the joys of the Chaîne. Kudos to Jayne Schmitz and Chevalier Nat Brown, Jr. for hosting confrères and new friends at this neighborhood gem. G

HUBBARD SQUASH-LOBSTER BISQUE Butter-Poached Lobster, Truffled Cream Casa di Baal Fiano di Baal 2011 SALT-ROASTED BEETS Ricotta Salata, Honey, Watercress, Seared Apples, Caramelized Walnuts Cantine Mucci Falanghina 2012 SEARED SCALLOPS Pumpkin Risotto Donna Grazia di Gurrieri Sicilia Rosato 2014 ESPRESSO-BRAISED SHORT RIB Truffled Celery Root Gratin, Delicata Chips Cantine Valenti Norma Etna Rosso 2013 SALTED CARAMEL POPCORN Corn Gelato, Rum Raisins, Cake Crumbs La Sabbiona Giulia Passito Albana 2012

PHOTOS BY JOHN PARRY

DALLAS

Patriot Day

BY SABRINA BELLO, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON SEPTEMBER 11, 2016, Dallas Bailliage members came together to remember those lost and injured on this date in 2001. The event was held at the beautifully appointed Lakewood Country Club, which was founded in 1912. To commemorate the somber occasion, flags and crests of the various branches of the U.S. military were displayed.

Attendees had Bailli Honoraire Mike Davis to thank for creating a setting that elicited a true sense of pride and honor.

Executive Chef William Koval and his team delivered a four-course menu with dishes that were both exquisitely prepared and artfully plated.

The seafood paella was the culinary standout. Also noteworthy was the rich Lail Cabernet Sauvignon Blueprint 2013 paired with the entrée.

At evening’s end, Bailli Steve Benkowitz presented Chef Koval with a commemorative Chaîne plate and acknowledged the Lakewood staff for orchestrating the meaningful dining experience.

Most important, confrères appreciated the opportunity to gather as a group to honor the vast number of individuals whose lives were forever changed on this date fifteen years ago. G

24

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

Bailli Hon. Clay Cockerell, Bailli Hon. Mike Davis, Pastry Chef Ismael Rodriguez, and Chef Michael Kearney.

Chevalier Sidney Gicheru, Bailli Steve Benkowitz, and Vice Echanson Neal Rogers.

BAILLIAGES

DELAWARE VALLEY

Parade on Passyunk

BY ELLEN ROSENBERG, Vice Chargée de Presse

FOUR OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTS in one night, all within a one-block radius. Too good to be true, you say? Well, it’s a reality on Philadelphia’s East Passyunk (locals pronounce it “Pash-yunk”), which has been voted one of the top food streets in America.

On May 1, 2016, Delaware Valley Bailliage members took their own tour of Passyunk. The first stop was Paradiso Restaurant & Wine Bar for antipasto. Owned by Executive Chef Lynn Rinaldi, this gem was one of the first to open in the neighborhood. Bailli Matt Karstetter divided attendees into three groups, using color-coded wristbands to reflect the order in which they would visit Brigantessa, Noord, and Fond, whose staffs worked together to ensure that the courses were distinct and could be enjoyed in any order.

Undaunted by the light rain, attendees moved enthusiastically from one venue to the next, inevitably crossing paths with fellow diners. The evening ended back at Paradiso for Italian pastries. Everyone agreed that the format offered a great way to experience Passyunk’s culinary riches and expressed interest in returning to each restaurant with the entire ­bailliage. G

Bailli Matt Karstetter, Chevalier Stuart Dershaw, and Vice Echanson Gene Rockower.

Harriet Lassin and Chef Rôtisseur Ben Wurst.

Jason Payne.

DENVER MILE HIGH

Sicilian Feast

BY STACY OHLSSON, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON JANUARY 30, in the capable hands of Locanda Del Borgo Owner/Chef Giancarlo Macchiarella, the Denver Mile High Bailliage took a culinary tour of Sicily. Sommelier Mario Scanu, a native of Sardinia and an Italian wine specialist with the Winebow Group, drew from southern Italian wines when pairing the courses. It was a new experience for those accustomed to wines from other areas of Italy.

Sicilian cuisine manifests all of the cultures that settled in Sicily over the past two thousand years. Claiming much in common with traditional Italian cuisine, Sicilian fare also reflects French, Arab, Spanish, and Greek influences, due to the ships from far-reaching locales passing through port.

The traditional Sicilian street food served at the reception was a fine prelude to Chef Macchiarella’s delicious five-course meal. A standout was spaghetti alla bottarga di muggine; this delicacy of salted, cured roe used to be smuggled up and down the Mediterranean coast. The chef prepared this and other dishes specially for the Denver Mile High Chapter’s event.

Between the authentic food and the camaraderie typically in play at an Italian dinner table, attendees could have sworn they had spent the evening in Sicily! G

Chef Rôtissuer Bill Althoff, Dame Francine Althoff, Dame Betty Winslow, and Professionnel du Vin Don Winslow.

Chevalier John Miquel and Dame Lesley Miquel.

Jason Sutton, Dame Laurie La Plante, and Dame Eva Milko.

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

25

BAILLIAGES

DES MOINES

Autumn Cornucopia

BY SANDY CUTTER, Vice Chargée de Presse

WHICH SEASON IS best from a culinary vantage point may be open to debate, but many would argue that autumn, when the larder overflows with freshly harvested items, is a strong contender. The cornucopia of flavors enjoyed by Des Moines Bailliage members at their fall dinner on November 20 made for a compelling case in point. The Copper Oak Restaurant at the Tournament Club of Iowa was the perfect venue for this event.

Dames de la Chaîne Nancy Landess and Lyla Maynard collaborated with Executive Chef Adam Gillaspey to plan the evening. The restaurant’s stone fireplaces and signature copper oak contributed to the cozy ambiance. The menu showcased classic autumn items such as blue hubbard squash and sweet potatoes.

Another treat was the reception wine—Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée des Moines Brut Champagne N.V.—which received a gold medal at the 2016 Sommelier Wine Awards.

Chef Gillaspey knows the Des Moines Bailliage well as he represented the chapter at the Midwest Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition in Kansas City in April 2016. G

Copper Oak Restaurant Tournament Club of Iowa November 20, 2016 BLUE HUBBARD SQUASHCURRY BISQUE Smoked Pork Belly, ChiliRoasted Squash Seeds Frank Family Vineyards Carneros Chardonnay 2014 ARUGULA Caramelized Figs, ButterPoached Lobster

Chevalier Jim Fleming and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Pat Brandt.

Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay 2014 MUSHROOM-ENCRUSTED BEEF TENDERLOIN Cream-Braised Potatoes, Crisp Leeks, Rosemary Gloss Robert Biale Vineyards Founding Farmers Zinfandel 2014 SWEET POTATO CHEESECAKE Candied Pecans, Amaretto Anglaise Château la Rivière Sauternes 2012

Dame Mary Ann Burris and Dame Susie Langwith.

DES MOINES

A Different Kind of Grind

BY SANDY CUTTER, Vice Chargée de Presse

IN THE WORDS of Otto von Bismarck, “Laws are like sausages, it is better not to see them being made.” Given the contentiousness of the political season, Des Moines Bailliage members thought the quote gave sausage making a bad name. On September 11, confrères drove to central Iowa to learn the art of sausage making from Story City Maître de Table Restaurateur Robert Anderson, Story City Locker Co-Owner Ty Gustafson, Chef Rôtisseur Terry Boston, and Bailli James Cutter.

Locker Co-Owner Ty Gustafson. It seemed quite fitting that members of a goose-roasting guild learn from a member of the Butcher’s Guild.

Attendees learned about how sausage is processed as well as about various grinds, seasonings, and casings. They then tried their own hand at sausage making, with the results served at that evening’s dinner at Battlecry Smokehouse and Bar. Chef Rôtisseur Terry Boston oversaw the preparation of the fruits of their labor as well as appropriate side dishes. Traditional English sausage (bangers) was served with mashed potatoes, bratwurst with German spätzle, and Sicilian sausage with peppers and onions.

Wonderful German, Italian, and American wines complemented the dishes. While glad the election cycle was nearly over, Des Moines members were sorry that their sausage-making adventure had to end. G

26

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

BAILLIAGES

DES MOINES

Local Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition

BY SANDY CUTTER, Vice Chargée de Presse

THE DES MOINES Bailliage held its fifth annual Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition at the Iowa Culinary Institute on February Bailli Jim Cutter (far left) with competition judges.

4. In accordance with Chaîne rules, all of the competitors were under twenty-seven-years old, and each prepared an appetizer, entrée, and dessert for a panel of judges.

Required ingredients were kept a “mystery” until the morning of the competition.

Assembled by ICI Program Chair/Maître de Table Restaurateur Robert Anderson, the mystery boxes included whole barramundi, rack of lamb, English cucumber, panko, puff pastry, and apples.

Regarding the atmosphere in the kitchen during the contest, Bailli Jim Cutter noted, “There wasn’t any chatter, as each chef was concentrating deeply on their ingredients and menu.”

At the subsequent champagne reception, Chef Anderson asked the judges if they had any tips for the young chefs. Both Maîtres Rôtisseurs Lynn Pritchard and Adam Gillaspey admitted that they always prepare dessert first because they are the least comfortable with this course.

Winner Anthony Nace—a second-time competitor and sous-chef at the Des Moines Golf and Country Club—will represent the Des Moines Bailliage in the Midwest Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition in Pittsburgh in March. G

Winner Anthony Nace.

GARDEN STATE

Elegant Induction Gala

BY VICTOR S. SLOAN, Vice Chargé de Presse Upper Montclair Country Club

THE GARDEN STATE Bailliage’s annual induction gala on November 20 was organized by Bailli Claude Dufresne and held at Echanson Provincial George Staikos, Bailli Provincial the Upper Montclair Country Club. Founded in 1901, the club is Robin Jacobs, and Vice Chargé de Missions Lawrence Grone. one of a small number worldwide that has hosted championships for all three professional golf associations.

Executive Chef/Chef Rôtisseur Ryan Foo and his team prepared an outstanding menu, designed in conjunction with Bailli Dufresne and Echanson Provincial George Staikos. The menu featured several locally sourced items, including Barnegat Bay diver scallops from New Jersey, Long Island duck breast, and Hudson Valley foie gras.

Bailli Provincial Robin Jacobs inducted Michelle Dufresne as the bailliage’s youngest-ever dame de la Chaîne. Élevés were Vice Chargé de Presse Victor Sloan, Vice Chargé de Missions Joe Zawistowski, Vice Chargé de Missions Lawrence Grone, and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Lawrence Lavigne, who also received his Executive Chef/Chef Rôtisseur Ryan Foo and Bailli commandeur pin. Chevalier Joseph Longo was honored as a grand Claude Dufresne. commandeur for his forty years of Chaîne membership.

Using a grapevine from the vineyard of Professionnel du Vin Michael Beneduce, Echanson Provincial Staikos inducted two members—Dame de la Chaîne Sharon Rickman and Vice Chargé de Missions Zawistowski—into the Mondiale. G

November 20, 2016 PAN-ROASTED BARNEGAT BAY DIVER SCALLOP Butternut Squash-Mascarpone Purée, Roasted Mushrooms, Osetra Caviar, Uni-Miso Emulsion Beringer Chardonnay Luminus 2014 CRISPY LONG ISLAND DUCK BREAST Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Bone Marrow, Parsnip-Celeriac Purée, Parsley-Chervil Salad Cherry Pie Pinot Noir 2015 A STUDY OF BEETS AND CARROTS Böen Pinot Noir 2015 WAGYU NEW YORK STRIP STEAK Pea Purée, Roasted Sweet Potato Purée, Criolla Potato, Braised Oxtail Robert Biale Founding Farmers Red Zinfandel 2013 GOAT CHEESE SEMIFREDDO AND CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT TERRINE Heitz Cellar Port Ink Grade Vineyard

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

27

BAILLIAGES

GARDEN STATE SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

Pinot Noir Dinner at Char Steakhouse

BY VICTOR S. SLOAN, Vice Chargé de Presse

ON OCTOBER 16, the Garden State Mondiale gathered for a pinot noir-themed event at Char Steakhouse in Raritan, New Jersey. Echanson Provincial George Staikos worked with Owner Luciano Ingrao and Corporate Chef Phil Deffina to create a menu that showcased some of the great pinots from around the world.

A self-proclaimed “Jersey guy,” Chef Deffina began working in restaurants as a teenager. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and completed stints at La Folie in San Francisco and Icarus in Boston before joining Char.

The chef is known for his creative use of local ingredients. After the group enjoyed the locally sourced delicata squash course, one attendee remarked, “I couldn’t be a vegetarian, but this makes me happy to eat vegetarian.” The wines came from three continents, and the unique white pinot made only a few miles from the restaurant by Professionnel du Vin Mike Beneduce was a revelation to those who had not yet had the good fortune to sample it.

Another treat was a surprise dessert of millionaire’s shortbread prepared by Vice Chargé de Presse Victor Sloan. As is typical at Mondiale events, the festivities were punctuated by lively singing. G

Bailli Provincial Robin Jacobs and Owner Luciano Ingrao.

Chevalier David Schulman.

Corporate Chef Phil Deffina and team.

HARTFORD

French Cuisine with Asian Spice

BY JENNIFER GARDNER, Vice Chancelier-Argentier

SNOWFLAKES TRADITIONALLY SWIRL for the Hartford Bailliage’s midwinter feast; however, the skies remained blissfully clear on January 28 for the chapter’s French-Asian fusion dinner at Cavey’s in Manchester, Connecticut. The black-tie event also featured the inductions of Chef de Cuisine/Maître Rôtisseur Thomas Kaldy and Restaurant Manager/Maître Restaurateur Angie Perdelwitz.

Cavey’s is known its deep, impressive cellar full of bordeaux and burgundies dating from the 1950s. Bailli Gary Dunn selected exceptional wines partners, including Konteki Junmai Daiginjo Pearls of Simplicity Sake to accompany shiso-wrapped, tempura-fried uni. Another standout was Martinetti Montruc Barbera d’Asti 2003, of which only four hundred cases were produced. These were the last bottles known to exist in the area. Yet, the favorite red of the evening was Domaine la Roquète Châteauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong 2011, which complemented berberespiced lamb loin with eggplant chutney.

Mid-Atlantic Chambellan Provincial Peter Caporilli once again graced Hartford confrères with his presence, inducting the two new professional members, who invited their culinary staff to witness the ceremony. It was a lovely finale to a fabulous Chaîne evening. G

28

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

Daniel Bryant, MA Chambellan Provincial Peter Caporilli, Bailli Gary Dunn, and Chevalier George Dunn.

Sonya Cosumano, Sara Caporilli, and Bethany Hepp.

BAILLIAGES

HARTFORD

Passing the Trophy

BY JENNIFER GARDNER, Vice Chancelier-Argentier

CHEVALIER WILLIAM BRAHM hosted the Hartford Bailliage’s ninth annual Chaîne Cup Tournament at TPC River Highlands on October 29. Participants enjoyed an afternoon of golfing and socializing in the glorious fall weather. Knowing that Russell Knox had recently won the PGA Tour’s Travelers Championship on this course, Hartford golfers were thrilled to play the same fairways as the greats.

Chef Rôtisseur Stephen Zielinski won both the longest Daniel Bryant, Chef Rôtisseur Steve Zielinski, Bailli Gary Dunn, and Chevalier William Brahm. drive competition and the closest-to-the-pin challenge, taking home an Augusta Masters Par 3 Tournament flag as well as a bottle of Town Branch Bourbon. All contestants received Augusta Masters Tournament golf caps, balls, towels, and ball markers from Mauro Cicchelli—a computer specialist for the Augusta National Golf Club and thus the fortunate attendee of the PGA event there.

This year, the Chaîne trophy went to an exuberant Bailli Gary Dunn, with a record low personal score on the course of 82, won fair and square before being adjusted for handicap to an astounding 69. Bailli Dunn scored a 39 on the front nine and won the admiration of his golfing partners. The trophy will be up for contest again next year. G

KANSAS CITY

Bastille Day Celebration

BY MICHAEL D. FOSTER, Bailli

THE KANSAS CITY Bailliage celebrated Bastille Day on July 17 with a feast at Room 39 South.

Kansas City has earned the nickname the “Paris of the Plains,” and confrères were pleased to mark this historic French event symbolizing peace.

Co-Owner/Chef Ted Habiger, who has two Room 39 locations and is completing a new venChevalier Bob Pearson, Linda Pearson, Katie Anderson, and Danny Anderson. tured called Brewery Emperial, welcomed attendees to this premier venue. Crisp white tablecloths contributed to the dining room’s elegant, formal ambiance.

Chef de Cuisine Spencer Wohlford designed a French menu of which Louis XVI would have approved. General Manager/Sommelier Kathi Rohlfing chose superb French wines to complement the cuisine. Chef de Cuisine Wohlford spoke about the food as it was being served, while General Manager/Sommelier Rohlfing provided illuminating Chef de Cuisine Spencer Wohlford.

Jamila Murga and Chevalier Mike Weaver. wine commentary.

While not actually on the Champs-Élysées, attendees were certainly treated like French royalty by the Room 39 South team. If only for one evening, confrères experienced a little pomp and ceremony, honored their fellow Chaîne members, and enjoyed a delightful celebration. G SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

29

LA GRANDE CAVE DU NEW JERSEY

Year of Celebration

BY WENDY PILLER, Vice Chargée de Presse

PLEASANTDALE CHÂTEAU, THE turn-of-the-century home of industrialist Charles Walter Nichols, is a spectacular display of European craftsmanship and luxury. Before his death in 1959, Nichols bequeathed the mansion and the forty beautiful acres of woodlands, ponds, and gardens surrounding it to his company, Allied Signal, for use as a corporate training retreat.

Since acquiring the property in 1994, the Knowles family, now Bailli John Foy, Jurisconsult Paul Haar, and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Wayne Positan. in its sixth generation of New Jersey restaurateurs, has preserved its splendid past. A farm and apiary have been added so that fresh produce and honey can be used in the family’s four restaurants.

Such was the exquisite setting of the La Grande Cave du New Jersey Bailliage’s holiday induction dinner on December 4. Honored guest Jurisconsult Paul Haar inducted Chevalier Harry Beatty. In addition, Chevalier Michael Griffinger was awarded the Bronze Star of Excellence, and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Wayne Positan, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Dennis Drasco, and Vice Chargée de Presse Wendy Piller received their officier commandeur pins.

It was a spectacular night to be drinking premier and grand crus—truly the highest level of French wines—from the chapter’s impressive wine cellar. It was also the perfect way to conclude the bailliage’s year of thirtieth anniversary celebrations. G

Chevalier Sam McNulty and Amy McNulty.

LONG ISLAND

Hole in One at the View Grill

BY KEITH A. SILLER, Vice Chargé de Presse

The View Grill November 6, 2016 CHEF DIMENNA’S AWARDWINNING CHOWDER YELLOW BEET-ENDIVE SALAD

ON NOVEMBER 6, Co-Owner/Executive Chef LOBSTER TAIL Jeanine DiMenna of the View Grill at Glen Cove Golf Saffron Risotto Club delivered a culinary hole in one for the Long VEAL TENDERLOIN Island Bailliage. The event debuted a new BYOB forMushroom-Cream-Brandy Sauce, Whipped Potatoes, Sautéed Spinach mat, enabling members to “grip it and sip it” (their favorite wines, that is) while enjoying the awardSORBET TRIO, NEW ORLEANSSTYLE BEIGNETS winning chef’s culinary wizardry.

Chocolate-Caramel Dipping Sauce Attendees teed off just before sunset, nibbling Glen Cove Mansion Director of Operations Gus Montesantos and tasty appetizers while taking in beautiful views of Mary Montesantos.

Long Island Sound. The meal showcased local ingredients, hitting the sweet spot with a finish of sorbet and New Orleans-style beignets. Notable guests included Chefs de Cuisine Association of America President Arlindo Fernandez and former Food and Beverage Association of America President Gladys Mouton Di Stefano. Glen Cove Mansion Director of Operations Gus Montesantos and his wife, Mary Montesantos, attended the event as well.

At evening’s end, Bailli Jerome Siller gave special thanks to Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Betty Siller for collaborating with Chef DiMenna and her team to make all in attendance feel like champions. G

30

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

PHOTOS BY BARRY WIEGMANN AND MICHAEL GRIFFINGER

BAILLIAGES

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY DAVID DILLINGHAM

MICHIGAN

Respite from Winter at Vertical Wine Bar

BY MICHAEL RUBY, Vice Chargé de Presse

RECENTLY NAMED BEST New Restaurant No. 8 by the Detroit Free Press, Vertical Detroit is an elegant wine bar offering American small Executive Chef Alex Knezevic and Bailli plates, fine wines, and expertly mixed cocktails in a partially subterBob Golding. ranean downtown Detroit space reminiscent of lower Manhattan. The warm dining room is flanked by a refined wine shop at one end and a lively bar at the other. With its tin ceiling, exposed brick, velvet-upholstered chairs, and artwork in the stairwell, Vertical Detroit is one part wine cellar and one part private club, with a dash of speakeasy.

On the chilly evening of January 29, Michigan Bailliage members gathered there to enjoy an outstanding five-course meal created by Executive Chef Alex Knezevic and his team. The culinary highlights included smoked salmon, beef tenderloin, and an intense flourless dark chocolate cake. For libations, diners could choose either a wine or a cocktail tasting flight.

Attendees unanimously agreed that anyone planning a trip to the Detroit Metro area in 2017 should definitely put Vertical Detroit on their must-visit list! G Chef Rôtisseur Daniel Vallone, Candice Bertschy, Delphine Grattan, and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Ray Bertschy.

MICHIGAN

Swan Song of Summer

BY MICHAEL RUBY, Vice Chargé de Presse

WHEN PEOPLE THINK of Detroit, they often think of cars, hockey, Motown, and Lions football on Thanksgiving. Yet, they should also note the fantastic food culture, as Michigan Bailliage members experienced firsthand at Tre Monti Ristorante on September 18.

Situated in a castle-like structure, Tre Monti has been at the center of Italian dining in the Detroit area since 2008. The lobby displays the venue’s numerous honors, including “Best Romantic Restaurant” and “Best Italian” awards from Hour magazine. Tre Monti has also repeatedly received the Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence.

Executive Chef Benedetto Palazzolo, a twenty-three-year-old wunderkind who graduated from the French Culinary Institute, recently took the reins at Tre Monti. His training has included stints at Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe and New York as well as at Mar-a-Lago in Palm Beach. Chef Palazzolo wanted to bring Michelincaliber food to his native state of Michigan.

The outstanding five-course meal culminated in a chocolate piñata filled with delectable treats. Attendees felt blessed to have experienced this wonderful evening and hope that visitors to their fine hamlet will choose to dine at Tre Monti. G

Tre Monti Ristorante September 18, 2016 RASPBERRY GAZPACHO Thai Chili, Watermelon Gherkin, Olive Oil Foam Peter Zemmer Lagrein Rosé Alto Adige 2013

Executive Chef Benedetto Palazzolo and Bailli Bob Golding.

SASHIMI-GRADE AHI TUNA Kaffir Lime Syrup, Ginger Marinate, Avocado Mash Poggio al Tesoro Solosole Vermentino 2013 PAN-SEARED SWEET POTATO GNOCCHI Hazelnut Butter, Seasonal Vegetables Tenuta Mazzolino Bonarda Oltrepo Pavese 2013 CHILI-GLAZED VENISON TENDERLOIN Polenta, White Asparagus, Shiitakes Riofava Suri Barolo 2009 DARK CHOCOLATE SPHERE

Chevalier David Dillingham and Sheryl Dillingham.

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

31

BAILLIAGES

NEW JERSEY

Fall Equinox at Pig & Prince

BY DIANA STROUP, Vice Chargée de Presse

“IF IT GROWS together, it goes together.” This is the philosophy of Maître Rôtisseur Michael Carrino, owner of Pig & Prince Restaurant and Gastro-Lounge in Montclair, New Jersey. Chef Carrino’s menus are Vice Chargée de Presse Diana Stroup Vice Conseiller Culinaire Kurt Knowles and Owner/ and Matt Stroup.

Maître Rôtisseur Michael Carrino. seasonally based, which is important not only for harvesting vegetables but animals as well. (Lamb, for example, is most flavorful in late spring and fall.)

A Garden State native, Chef Carrino graduated from the Culinary Institute of America.

Strong relationships with local farmers enable him to choose fresh items daily. The space housing Pig & Prince sat empty for years before he opened his vibrant restaurant. On October 19, this former train station, with its vaulted ceilings and cavernous dining room, delivered a fine dining experience for New Jersey Bailliage members.

Of the courses served, this author especially loved the civet of retired farmhouse ram. A “retired” ram is an intact male sheep retired from breeding. The meat has a richer flavor than lamb, and Chef Carrino’s French peasant stew was a standout.

Confrères appreciated Chef Carrino’s knowledge, enthusiasm, and passion. He is clearly Nina Goldman, Officier Stevan Goldman, Alan Pollard, and a friend of the environment and someone who cares about New Jersey past and present. G Randi Pollard.

NEWPORT BEACH

Italian Wine Dinner at Onotria

BY SHERYLE ULYATE, Vice Chargée de Presse

ONOTRIA WINE COUNTRY Cuisine in Costa Mesa, California, was completely bought out by the Newport Beach Bailliage for the chapter’s dinner there on April 10, 2016.

Owner/Master Chef Massimo Navaretta has a stellar reputation, and his first-ever Chaîne dinner was not to be missed.

Confrères wanted to share the chef’s passion and exuberance for fine, carefully crafted Italian wines and fresh, healthy ingredients prepared according to recipes that he learned growing up in Campania, in southern Italy. These recipes have been refined from years of international culinary exposure and experience.

Bailli David Weinberg, who planned the dinner with Chef Massimo, encouraged the chef to dazzle diners with his pairings of Italian wines from his deep cellar and his special Italian courses. He did so splendidly! Whether subtle or robust, the flavors in each course were delightful and complex. It was an exceptional presentation by a Master Chef and an unforgettable Chaîne dining experience. Bravo, Chef Massimo, and bravo to the entire Onotria team! G

32

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

Onotria Wine Country Cuisine April 10, 2016 BRANZINO CRUDO Fennel Tortino, Herb Pesto Coulis, Yellow Pepper, Verbena Citrus Michele Satta la Costa di Giulia Vermentino 2014

Laurel Nelligan, Dame Carolina Prichard, and Bailli David Weinberg.

TIGER SHRIMP AND MANILA CLAMS Chorizo-Cannellini Bean Guazzetto Azienda Agricola COS Anfora Ramì 2012 PENNE Zucchini Blossoms, Mushrooms, Saffron Sauce SPAGHETTI ALLA CHITARRA Roast Eggplant-Tomato Marmalade, Smoked Ricotta Salata San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva Il Grigio 2010 BRAISED LAMB SHANK MEAT Berbere Gremolata, LentilYam Mille Fleur Pie Tenute Chiaromonte Primitivo di Gioia del Colle 2011 TRIPLE CHOCOLATE BOMBA Warm Zabaglione Cream

Vice Chargée de Presse Sheryle Ulyate and Owner/Master Chef Massimo Navaretta.

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY PAUL KOULOGEORGE

PHILADELPHIA

Delightful Dinner at the Balboa Supper Club

BY ELIAV BARR, Vice Chargé de Presse

THE AMERICAN DINING experience is evolving. The decline of formal fine-dining restaurants, the rising rent/lease costs in central locations of booming cities, the disproportionate influence of reviewing juggernauts, Su Horty, Mark Mintun, and Dame Susan Mintun. and the growing requirement for share-of-voice to sustain profitability have resulted in substantial pressures on chefs, both emerging and established. These factors have led to the resurgence of supper clubs, guerilla restaurants, and pop-ups for exciting culinary experiences.

In Philadelphia, restaurants helmed by young chefs often open as “guestaurants” or supper clubs with small, loyal followings. The Balboa Supper Club is one such venue. It has only one dining table and offers gorgeously plated, innovative cuisine made from locally sourced items.

Under the guidance of Bailli Thomas Knox, Owner/Chef Alex Chevalier Bruce Zappan and Pamela Martin.

Garfinkel organized two intimate dinners for the Philadelphia Bailliage in February. The atmosphere was more akin to a dinner party at a friend’s home than a restaurant. The sounds and scents from the open kitchen and ongoing dialogue with the chef and his wife-partner provided a wonderful sense of intimacy. The menu was inspiring and well executed— a midwinter feast accompanied by bold, primarily American wines. G

PITTSBURGH

Holiday Induction Gala at Wheeling Island

BY ANN KOLINER, Vice Chargée de Presse

ON DECEMBER 11, the Pittsburgh Bailliage gathered for a spectacular holiday induction gala at the Wheeling Island Hotel, Casino, and Racetrack in Wheeling, West Virginia. It was the first time that Pittsburgh confrères held a Chaîne event at this venue, and what an event it was!

There was no rolling the dice here. Executive Chef/Maître Rôtisseur Larry Alexander, Jr., assisted by his talented Wheeling Island team as well as University Hospitals of Cleveland Executive Chef/Chef Rôtisseur John Selick, created a dazzling menu featuring some universal favorites: foie gras, caviar, and truffles. Vice Echanson Joe Bello selected wonderful wines to accompany the superb cuisine.

Bailli Jill Kummer—formerly the region’s bailli provincial—inducted ten new members into the Pittsburgh Chapter. The inductees were Maîtres Rôtisseurs Scott Schmucker and Mike Wagner; Chef Rôtisseur Will Racin; Chevaliers Timothy Curci, Scott Domowicz, Bruce Harshman, Paul Peffer, Jr., Isaiah Sawhney, and Neill Stouffer; and Dame de la Chaîne Leslie Miller.

At evening’s end, Bailli Kummer thanked the chefs and staff for orchestrating this delightful event. All in attendance—whether newly inducted or established Chaîne members—will remember it with appreciation and awe. G

Chevalier Neill Stouffer, Chevalier Bruce Harshman, Bailli Jill Kummer, Chevalier Isaiah Sawhney, Dame Leslie Miller, and Chevalier Paul Peffer, Jr.

Maître Rôtisseur Scott Schmucker and Vice Conseiller Culinaire Rikk Panzera.

SPRING 2017

Wheeling Island Executive Chef/ Maître Rôtisseur Larry Alexander.

::

GASTRONOME

::

33

BAILLIAGES

PITTSBURGH

Farm-to-Table Picnic

BY ANN KOLINER, Vice Chargée de Presse

Chatham University Eden Hall Campus

THE PITTSBURGH BAILLIAGE’S annual picnic took place on August 7 at Chatham University’s Eden Hall Campus—a unique farm located in Richland, Pennsylvania. Set on 338 acres, the campus epitomizes sustainability and environmental education. Confrères enjoyed a guided tour of the certified organic farm and were thrilled to witness the cutting-edge efforts that are taking place in Pittsburgh.

Executive Chef/Chef Rôtisseur Chris Galarza, a graduate of the Art Institute of Pittsburgh, apprenticed at the Greenbrier Resort and worked under three Certified Master Chefs before arriving at Eden Hall in 2015.

The picnic fare and accompanying wines were spectacular. Many of the ingredients used to prepare the feast were either grown on the campus or locally sourced. The entrées consisted of grilled and roasted meats and fish accompanied by pickled and puréed vegetables. The picnic would not have been complete without house-made chocolate confections for the finale.

Following dinner, Chef Galarza introduced his talented, hard-working kitchen and service staffs. Attendees gladly showed their appreciation to those involved in making the Executive Chef/Chef Rôtisseur Chris Galarza (far left) and culinary team. experience a delight from start to finish. G

August 7, 2016

Entrées KOREAN GRILLED BABY OCTOPUS Sweet Ginger-Daikon Purée, Sea Beans GRILLED HANGER STEAK Honey-Carrot Purée, Pickled Radish CRISPY PORK BELLY Roasted Fennel and Mushrooms, Pickled Watermelon Rind, Uni Emulsion ROASTED WILD BOAR TENDERLOIN Beluga Lentil Salad, Sherry Gastrique

Wines Secoli Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 2015 Dr. Loosen Red Slate Dry Riesling 2013 Andora Maris Albariño 2015

RHODE ISLAND

Holiday Dinner at DeWolf Tavern

BY ROCCO RAINONE, JR., Chevalier

DeWolf Tavern December 4, 2016 SEARED TUNA Lemongrass-Coconut Beurre Blanc Storypoint Chardonnay 2014

THE RHODE ISLAND Bailliage’s holiday event at SEARED DUCK BREAST DeWolf Tavern in Bristol, Rhode Island, on December 4 AND LEG CONFIT Cannelloni Beans, Vranec Sauce proved to be a wonderful evening of great food, drink, Bovin Vranec 2013 and friends. Beautifully decorated for the season, the DRY-AGED NEW YORK STRIP STEAK historic tavern is housed in a restored warehouse built Mushrooms, Fingerlings, Plum Sauce by shipping merchants William and James DeWolf in Justin Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 1818. Hosting the event were Maître Hôtelier Lloyd COCONUT CAKE Adams and Suzanne Adams, who greeted attendees Avocado Ice Cream, Chilion the second floor, where all enjoyed views of Bristol Chocolate Sauce Pumpkin-Spiced Eggnog Harbor as the waves kissed the docks below.

Executive Bar Manager Sandra Standish designed a lovely rosemary-pear sparkler specially for the occasion. It was the perfect accompaniment to the delicious hors d’oeuvres served at the reception. The group was then treated to a sumptuous feast designed and executed by Executive Chef Sai Viswanath.

It was the Rhode Island Chapter’s third event at DeWolf Tavern, and, as always, no one was disappointed. Chef Viswanath and Maître Hôtelier Adams, who co-own the venue, always deliver for the Chaîne. A heartfelt thank-you was extended to the entire team at the end of this memorable evening! G

34

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

Chevalier James Moretti, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Nick Passarelli, and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Rogerio Pereira.

Chevalier Rocco Rainone, Jr., Bailli Paul Damiano, and Dame Charlotte Moretti.

BAILLIAGES

SPRINGFIELD

French Style with an American Twist

BY ROSALIE LOWERY, Vice Chargée de Presse

AS ONE OF Springfield’s premier private clubs, the Sangamo Club has been a gathering place for business, governAnne Haaker, Vice Chanceler-Argentier Hon. David Haaker, and ment, and community leaders for more than a century. On Gwyneth Thompson.

November 18, the Springfield Bailliage assembled at the elegant venue for a French/American-themed dinner. After receiving a warm welcome from Bailli John Dale Kennedy, attendees sampled tasty hors d’oeuvres, sipped chilled champagne, and ­socialized.

Executive Chef Joseph Martin prepared a superb five-course meal that included such highlights as pan-seared foie gras with pine nut ice cream and balsamic-fig reduction, poached lobster tail with creamed leeks, and the entrée of pistachio-lemon aïoli-crusted lamb chops with rosemary jus.

Following the traditional French cheese course, diners savored the sweet finale of raspberry-French vanilla-coffee trifle with a tuile cookie spoon served in a coffee cup.

Ronée Kennedy, Marvin Bowen, Dame Linda Bowen, Dame Karan Dessert was accompanied by Fonseca Vintage Port 1992.

Ross, Brenda Payne, and Dame Charlotte Warren.

Chambellan Provincial Honoraire Geoff Bland chose the evening’s wines from the chapter’s Thomas Y. Pearson Memorial Wine Cellar. Attendees appreciated the efforts of Chef Martin and his team toward making the evening the grand success that it was! G

PHOTOS BY GIRL IN THE GLASS CITY

TOLEDO

Induction Dinner at Final Cut Final Cut Steak & Seafood

BY REBECCA CONKLIN KLEIBOEMER, Vice Chargée de Presse

September 10, 2016

IT WAS A safe bet that the dinner was going to be amazing. Final Cut Steak & Seafood in the Hollywood Casino paid out handsomely for the Toledo Bailliage’s black-tie induction dinner on September 10. Attendees gathered in the award-winning venue’s private dining room overlooking the Maumee River for a lavish meal paired with eight wines­—three for the main course alone!­ The steak-trio entrée included a Japanese Wagyu A5 strip that has become a staple of Chef Aaron Lawson’s menu. Chef Lawson took care to make the meal gluten-free, using tapioca starch instead of traditional roux for the sauces.

Dessert came with two warnings: 18 percent alcohol in the generous pour of Terra d’Oro Zinfandel Port and smoked chili peppers in the chocolate truffle. (A third warning came in the form of the casino’s security concern about bringing an induction sword into the venue!)

The meal was an exquisite way to welcome three new members and celebrate the elevation of another member to officier. Bailli Ann Sanford and Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth offered warm congratulations to all. G

ROASTED PORK Louis Latour Montagny Premier Cru la Grande Roche 2013

Chevalier Bruce Lucki and Bailli Ann Sanford.

TOMATO BISQUE Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand Arbois-Pupillin Ploussard 2012 RAVIOLI BOLOGNESE Marchesi Antinori Tenuta Guado al Tasso Il Bruciato 2012 PRIME FILET Round Pond Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 SNAKE RIVER FARMS RIB EYE CAP Château Ducru-Beaucaillou la Croix de Beaucaillou 2012 JAPANESE WAGYU A5 STRIP Marchesi Antinori Tignanello 2013 CHOCOLATE VARIATIONS Terra d’Oro Zinfandel Port

Chevalier Celso Antiporda and Lea Antiporda.

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

35

BAILLIAGES PHOTOS BY GIRL IN THE GLASS CITY

TOLEDO

Grazing at the Museum

BY REBECCA CONKLIN KLEIBOEMER, Vice Chargée de Presse

MARINERS OFTEN HAVE nothing better than hardtack and rotgut for sustenance on their voyages. The food and drink enjoyed by the Toledo Bailliage at the National Museum of the Great Lakes on October 19 stood in stark contrast: delicious, locally harvested items were served with superb wines from lake-contiguous states.

Marge Sander, Chevalier Jim Sander, Jack Arthur, and Marcia Arthur.

Tree City Catering Owner/Chef Scott Pierce created a buffet with preparations enhanced by local apples and cheese produced at regional dairies. Vice Echanson Tom Reed collected wines from Ohio, Michigan, and New York.

Attendees dined while perusing exhibits chronicling the history of shipping on Lake Erie and the other Great Lakes.

An event highlight was a tour of the Col. James M. Schoonmaker, a lake freighter that carried iron ore, grain, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Mary Martin and coal as the “Queen of the Lakes” in the early twenand Tree City Catering Owner/Chef Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Kathleen Reed and Vice Echanson tieth century. The retired ship became a Toledo tourist Scott Pierce.

Tom Reed. attraction in 1980 and, as such, is well visited.

Back on land, the mirrored lighthouse lanterns reflected attendees’ hearty appreciation for the tasty fare as well as the museum artifacts and interactive displays. All in attendance agreed that this is a must-visit site for those planning trips to Toledo. G

TULSA SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN

The Summer Pleasures of Provence

BY STEVE GERKIN, Vice Echanson

THE PROVENCE WINE region of France is a glamorous landscape.

From Cannes to Nice to Saint-Tropez, from the Alps to the coastal area plains, there is a treasure trove of wines that appeal to both the eye and palate. On July 7, the Tulsa Mondiale spent a leisurely evening at the Summit Club drinking the wines of several world-famous varietals from the AoP of Côtes de Provence, Cassis, and Bandol, paired with authentic recipes of the Azure coast.

For the educational portion of the evening, Vice Echanson Steve Gerkin gave a presentation on the region’s origins as well as the various peoples who have influenced the foods still served today along the French Riviera.

The predominant wine style in Provence is rosé. The meal featured three rosés with distinctly different characteristics: light and mineraly; light-medium body and floral; and full, rich, and savory. Clos Sainte Magdeleine Blanc 2014 from Cassis and a mourvèdre-based Domaine Tempier red from Bandol were enjoyed with two other courses.

The Tempier red came from the vineyard-farm of Lulu Peyraud— aka the “Cooking Queen of Provence”—and still the grand dame of cuisine that embraces simplicity and elegant restraint. G

36

::

CHAINEUS.ORG

::

SPRING 2017

Dame Susie Detwiler, Dame Carla Mammalis, Vice Chargée de Presse Mary Anne Lewis, Vice Chargée de Missions Heather Revelis, and Vice Conseiller Culinaire Andy Revelis.

Vice Echanson Steve Gerkin, General Manager Tony Zaranti, CCM, and Bailli Sue Gerkin.

BAILLIAGES

TULSA

Venezuelan Adventure at Foundations

BY HEATHER REVELIS, Vice Chargée de Missions

FOUNDATIONS RESTAURANT AT Platt College was the perfect venue for the Vice Chargée de Missions Gina Lodes Dame Carolyn Nierenberg and Vice and Chevalier Mike Lodes Chancelier-Argentier David Nierenberg.

Tulsa Bailliage’s season opener on September 18. The culinary institute’s standards of excellence for food and service reflect a major interest of the Chaîne: to promote high-level training that facilitates the entry of talented young professionals into the culinary and hospitality industries.

Chef de Cuisine Curt Herrmann, CEC, led attendees on an adventure in Venezuelan cuisine. He relied upon a Venezuelan culinary advisor, who, in addition to guiding the chef on the menu’s authenticity, translated the culinary terms from Spanish and provided diners with explanations of the specially crafted courses.

Prior to dinner, Director of Culinary Arts/Chef Jeff Howard welcomed the group and introduced Chef Herrmann and his team. To commemorate the Mark Hackl, Dame Ping McBride, Vice Chargée de Presse Mary Anne Lewis, Vice evening, attendees were gifted with specially designed pins displaying a map Chargée de Missions Heather Revelis, and Vice Conseiller Culinaire Andy Revelis. of Venezuela.

In closing, a Chaîne plaque was presented to Chef Howard in thanks for Platt College hosting this event and for the school’s role in furthering the culinary arts in Tulsa. It was another evening of superb cuisine, impeccable service, and Chaîne camaraderie at one of the Tulsa Bailliage’s favorites venues. G

U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS

Holiday Overnight at the Westin

BY ALAN FEUERSTEIN, Bailli

THE U.S. VIRGIN Islands Bailliage’s annual holiday event was held at the fabulous St. John Westin Resort and Villas on December 11. The overnight affair began with a sunset voyage on the Westin’s private motor yacht from Red Hook dock on St. Thomas to the resort’s private pier. From there, what attendees experienced epitomized the highest standards attainable in Maître Rôtisseur David Goldberg, Bailli Alan Feuerstein, Executive Sous-Chef Andrew Hunter, Dame Susan Seipel, Vice the culinary arts.

Chancelier-Argentier Michael Adell, and Vice Echanson Frank Machover.

General Manager Samuel Hugli, a longtime professional confrère from Switzerland, and Executive Sous-Chef Andrew Hunter collaborated with Bailli Honoraire Marston Winkles and the chapter’s treasured professional members to create a magnificent food and wine extravaganza. Prior to the event, U.S. Virgin Islands Mondiale members had assiduously selected the wines served.

Chef Hunter offered interesting food commentary, while wine-purveyor representatives, including Vice Echanson Frank Machover, Professionnel du Vin Tegan Lucas, and Professionnel du Vin Amarylis Davila-Agosto—a member of the Fédération Internationale des Journalistes et Ecrivains du Vin—provided critiques of the accompanying cuvées as they were poured.

Attendees stayed overnight in the exquisite, newly renovated resort Villas and enjoyed a champagne brunch together on Sunday morning. G

SPRING 2017

::

GASTRONOME

::

37