E X T R A ! FALL 2014
IN THIS ISSUE:
Remembering Peter Hanowich PAGE 2 •••••••••
Amazing Reimund PAGE 4 •••••••••
Miami Pulls Off Surprise Inductions PAGE 6 •••••••••
Naples Bids Farewell to a Beloved Bailli PAGE 8 •••••••••
1937: A Vintage Birthday PAGE 11 •••••••••
FAST FORWARD National Calendar Happy Anniversary! Book Reviews Film Reviews Chapter Events
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE
FOUR SEASONS EXTRAVAGANZA By Kathryn Nicholson, Kauai/Oahu Bailli Hawaii/Pacific Islands confrères returned to the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai at historic Ka’ūpūlehu for their region’s annual assemblage from September 26-28. Situated on Hawaii Island’s KonaKohala Coast, the resort captures the ambiance of Hawaii’s golden age. In 2013, it received a Travel + Leisure “World’s Best Award,” and Condé Naste Traveler has placed it on its “Gold List” of best resorts for many years’ running. Hawaii Island Bailli Kimi Matar hosted the threeday extravaganza. Some attendees arrived early to enjoy the Jack Nicklaus-designed signature golf course and relax at the elegant spa. Official activities kicked off with a welcome reception Friday evening. We gathered where most of our receptions take place—outdoors, under the stars, with the beach nearby. On the Beach Tree Lawn, we sipped champagne and greeted old and new friends before drifting to another outdoor area for a “Taste of Hawaii,” which featured delicious food stations and wine selections. On Saturday, a gnocchi cooking-class demonstration was given by Chef Jon Weisel. We
H/PI regional and national officers.
sipped Prosecco while learning how to prepare the Beach Tree restaurant’s famous gnocchi. At the subsequent three-course luncheon, we were served our creations. Next, a limoncello-making class kept us entertained. After peeling lemons, we mixed the peel with vodka, water, and sugar, beginning the thirty-day process of creating limoncello. Luckily, we were given gifts of ready-to-drink limoncello to take home. Saturday evening, we were privileged to witness Bailli Délégué National Harold Small induct four new members into the Hawaii Island Bailliage. In addition, Hawaii Island Vice Echanson William White III received his officier commandeur pin for thirty years of Chaîne
membership, and Bailli Matar was awarded the Bronze Star of Excellence for her outstanding work in organizing the assemblage. The gala dinner was expertly prepared by Four Seasons Executive Chef Massimo Falsini, Executive Sous-Chef Shaun Acosta, and their team. Echanson Provincial Honoraire David Gochros did a stellar job of pairing the wines. To start, an amuse-bouche of Kona abalone and an oyster-beluga caviar course were served with Domaine Laroche Chablis Saint Martin 2012. Arriving next was crisped Hawaiian grouper, married with Domaine du Pavillon Puligny-Montrachet 2010. Dry-aged strip beef with Continued on page 7
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Letter from the Editor-in-Chief “Extra! Extra! Read All About It!”—Gastronome Extra!, our well-named digital newsletter, was conceived in 2012 to bring timely, noteworthy news regarding our members, member establishments, young chefs and young sommeliers competitions, announcements, meetings, travel, awards, elevations, philanthropy, and other interesting data orbiting our Chaîne sphere. This is the seventh publication of GE! and my first. I especially want to thank our contributing correspondents: Helen Cappuccino, Maria Eastlick, Thelma Negley, Kathryn Nicholson, Charles Radlauer, and Roger Weatherburn-Baker. With our newly established national communications team (headed by Chargée de Presse National Michelle Metter and including myself and our dedicated regional chargés de presse) in full work mode, we are refining the way we transmit, exchange, and update our national news. We have even joined social media; here’s a link to our Facebook page: www.facebook.com/pages/Chaine-des-Rotisseurs-UnitedStates/119374168080790#. Let us know how you “like” it. With four sources to deliver our news—Gastronome, Gastronome Extra!, our national website (www.chaineus.org), and Facebook—we are strengthening our link to one another and consequently to the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs des Etats-Unis. Furthermore, we now have the tools and motivation to share our U.S. Chaîne news worldwide with our international esprit de corps. So, share your Chaîne news with us and help keep US connected through GE!
Remembering Peter Hanowich
FALL 2014
FALL 2014
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Marie Addario PUBLISHER
Michelle Metter ART & DESIGN
artattack!creative MANAGING EDITOR
Carolyn March SPECIAL CORRESPONDENTS
Helen Cappuccino Maria Eastlick Thelma Negley Kathryn Nicholson Charles Radlauer Roger Weatherburn-Baker
Marie C. Addario Editor-in-Chief of Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! Vice Chargée de Presse National
Peter Hanowich, a giant of the Bailliage des Etats-Unis, passed away on July 20. Pete rose through the membership ranks to become bailli of his beloved Pittsburgh Bailliage. He later served two terms as Midwest bailli provincial and was appointed conseiller des bailliages national. Providing guidance along the way, Pete shared his unbridled enthusiasm for the Chaîne with baillis across the country. When the National Board was reduced in size, this office was terminated, and Pete returned to what he liked best—serving as bailli!—but not before being honored as a member of the Conseil d’Honneur. He was proud that the Pittsburgh Bailliage had more professional members and chefs than non-professionals. When chefs attended Pittsburgh dinners, they lined up to fill out applications to join. “I want to be a member…tonight!” they would say. A man of many talents, Pete was genuinely interested in the Chaîne’s future and was very involved in the creation of our Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. He was generously responsible for many items that our Chaîne boutique sold. His infectious laugh and joy of living will be missed by many.
CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS GASTRONOME EXTRA!
Published by the U.S. Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Copyright 2014 Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Ltd., a New York notfor-profit corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.
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Pittsburgh Bailli Peter Hanowich.
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GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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Letter from the President Dear Confrères et Consœurs: I am happy to report that our officers at the local, regional, and national levels are working diligently to advance the Chaîne and improve your experience as a member. Innovation is occurring, and improvements will become apparent over the coming year. Our communications team is on course and at full steam to provide you with the latest Chaîne news and upcoming events at the touch of a finger. Some of the improvements begin in this issue of Gastronome Extra! A memorial section has been added to remember those who have given so much to this wonderful society and with whom many of you have dined and whose camaraderie you have enjoyed at the table. We have also added a section listing new national and regional officers and baillis. So let our national office know of any changes. You will also find more newsworthy material and interesting features. Let us know what you like and send our editor-in-chief your ideas for additional improvements so that we can better meet your needs. Planning has begun for the national events to be held over the next three years. Our national calendar will be updated as each event is confirmed as to date and location. From time to time, check our national website not only for news items but to access registration materials for our national events. They will be posted when we start accepting registrations. We anticipate that registration for the National Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition and National Mondiale Meeting/ Young Sommeliers Competition will be available in January. In February watch for information about our Grand Chapitre taking place in Puerto Rico in the fall. All of these national gatherings will be stellar, and we anticipate sold-out events, so keep a watchful eye on our website (www.chaineus.org). There you will also find information about regional assemblages and travel opportunities that may be of interest to you. Share the Chaîne, but don’t forget to use the Chaîne. There are many wonderful events coming up. For instance, in late April, the Bailliage of Israel will celebrate its fiftieth anniversary. Susan and I plan to be there and look forward to raising a glass with you. With Chaîne best wishes,
Hal
Harold S. Small Bailli Délégué National
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FOUNDATION FRIENDS HONOR ROLL Dominick Addario Marie Addario Barbara Breitbart Barbara Burson John Burson Helen Cappuccino Keith Chappell Rufus Cressend Bert Cutino Cynthia Eisenmenger Greg Eisenmenger George Elliott Ray K. Farris II Lois Ferrero Gogol Burton H. Hobson Robin Jacobs Michael Kalkstein
Matthew Karstetter Cheryl Kenny Bruce Liebert Shelly Margolis Tony Marshall Sandi Moran Tom Moran Marcelo Obén Michael Parmet Martin Perham William Salomon Harold Small Mont Stern Bryan Stirrat David Wilson William Wortman
Grand Chapitre Update: Puerto Rico! Our fantastic team in Puerto Rico—Ponce Bailli Jorge Torres, Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial/Mayagüez Bailli Virgen Acosta de Obén, San Juan Bailli Enrique Umpierre, Bailli Provincial Honoraire Marcelo Obén, and Ponce Officier Silvia Torres—is working with Conseiller Gastronomique National Ira Falk to plan the 2015 Grand Chapitre in San Juan. Just back from an extremely successful planning meeting in this tropical paradise, Ira is certain the Grand Chapitre will have something for everyone. Visit www.chaineus.org for updates.
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Amazing Reimund By Helen Cappuccino, Northeast Chargée de Presse Provincial During his twenty years as executive chef at Walt Disney World, the Chaîne’s newest conseiller des professionnels national, Reimund Pitz, CEC, CCE, AAC, served meals to four U.S. Presidents as well as “dozens of world leaders and celebrities, especially during my tenure as executive chef at Disney-MGM Studios.” Chef Pitz is clearly at the top of his own field, with eight gold medals and two perfect scores at the Culinary Olympics and so many accolades and leadership positions it’s impossible to imagine a chef with more impressive credentials. Introduced to the Chaîne in the 1980s by then Orlando Bailli Robert Uttal, Chef Pitz brings boundless enthusiasm, stellar culinary training (the CIA, Johnson & Wales University, and Le Cordon Bleu), and extraordinary professional experiences to usher in a new era for our organization. Chef Pitz graciously recognizes Chancelier National Heinz Hofmann’s work in developing a vital young chefs’ program. He aspires to take this even further and for the past four years has successfully tested a program designed specifically for young p astry chefs. He also sees development of competitions, including standardized guidelines for them, as “goals that I strongly believe in….We as the Chaîne would sanction these competitions, [and] provide qualified judges for them…keeping our name out there at all times, as well as having the opportunity to raise some additional funds.” In addition to his long-term goal of fielding a team to compete in the Culinary Olympics in Germany, he is also focused on developing regional young chefs’ training facilities based on criteria developed by the Chaîne. “These facilities would serve in many ways: training and development of young chefs for future competitions, hosting chef events…and proudly promulgating the Chaîne brand,” he explained. Chef Pitz, with his wife, Maître de Table Restaurateur Sandy Pitz, and their sons, Cory and Baron, owns and operates the award-winning Le Coq au Vin restaurant in Orlando. He also donates his time to judging culinary competitions and providing leadership to organizations focused on children and hunger, including Give Kids the World, World Cooks Tour for Hunger, and Second Harvest Food Bank. In their free time, he and Sandy enjoy traveling in their RV and going to
(Above) Orlando Maître de Table Restaurateur Sandy Pitz and Conseiller des Professionnels National Reimund Pitz, CEC, CCE, AAC.
the beach. According to Chef Pitz, “People are not judged by what they have but ultimately by what they leave behind. The opportunity to network and offer a hand-up to young culinarians can ultimately impact the
(Right) Conseiller des Professionnels National Reimund Pitz, CEC, CCE, AAC.
rest of their lives. The scholarship and young sommelier programs offer vital initiatives to the success of these young professionals. I strongly believe they will remember that the Chaîne was there when it mattered most.” It’s sure to be an exciting time for the Chaîne’s culinary programs with Conseiller des Professionnels National Reimund Pitz in charge. FALL 2014
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2015 UPCOMING EVENTS:
HAPPY ANNIVERSARY!
MARCH 1 Southeast and Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition and Young Sommeliers Competition Fort Lauderdale, FL Contact: SE Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer at (305) 937-4602 or CharlesRadlauer@aol.com
6-8 South Central Regional Assemblage Asheville, NC Contact: Bailli Provincial/Myrtle Beach Tony Hirsh at (917) 612-6714 or wahirsh@aol.com 13-15 Pacific Northwest Regional Assemblage
and Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition San Francisco, CA Contact: Bailli Provincial Bertrand de Boutray at (206) 527-0804 or bertrand@bertrandchezvous.com
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Midwest Regional Assemblage Kansas City, KS Contact: Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth at (317) 727-5487 or wilmeth.renee@gmail.com
APRIL
Congratulations to the Bailliages des Etats-Unis Celebrating Milestone Anniversaries in 2014
50 YEARS
1964/February 26
Dallas
1964/May 4
Buffalo
40 YEARS
1974/May 13
30 YEARS
1984/January 29
U.S. Virgin Islands
1984/March 12
Colonial New England
1984/March 24
Jamaica
20 YEARS
1994/May 15
Peachtree
1994/August 15
Jackson
24-26 Northeast Regional Assemblage
Albany, NY Contact: Bailli Provincial Gabor Huszar at (203) 397-9322 or gabor.huszar@yale.edu
Houston
10 YEARS
2004/June 13
Myrtle Beach
Thank you for your years of honoring the art of cuisine, preserving the camaraderie and culture of the table, promoting excellence in all areas of hospitality, and encouraging the development of young chefs and sommeliers.
MAY 14-17 National Société Mondiale du Vin Meeting and Young Sommeliers Competition Bacara Resort & Spa Santa Barbara, CA
JUNE 11-14 National Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition Las Vegas, NV
For more information, please check the Calendar at www.chaineus.org.
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Congratulations to Our Newest Regional Officers and Baillis Tony Hirsh (Myrtle Beach)—South Central bailli provincial Leslie Ann Merle (Laguna)—Far West chargée de presse provincial Jill Kummer—Pittsburgh bailli Steven F. Lustig—Santa Fe bailli Enrique Umpierre—San Juan bailli
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Miami Pulls Off Surprise Inductions during Young Chefs’ Weekend By Maria Eastlick, Miami Vice Chargée de Presse In May, the Miami Bailliage hosted the National Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition and surrounding activities. Miami Bailli Nancy Radlauer and Southeast Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer organized a spectacular, three-day “Miami Culinary Experience” for the c ontestants. Torrential rain greeted the contestants arriving at the Redbury South Beach Hotel. Yet, spirits remained high as the group dined at Khong River House, where the delicious cuisine celebrated the flavors and traditions of the Mekong region. The next morning, the fun began for the contestants at Sabores Café with breakfast delights prepared by Owner/Chef Daisy Diaz. Afterward they headed to the Port of Miami to board the Norwegian Sky. Miami Maître de Table Hôtelier Lars Kristiansen offered a private galley tour and insights into the art of running a restaurant at sea for two thousand passengers. Lunch was at the world-famous Cuban restaurant Versailles in Little Havana. The contestants then attended an orientation for Saturday’s culinary competition led by Miami Vice Conseiller Culinaire Bruce Ozga, dean of Johnson & Wales University’s College of Culinary Arts. The day ended with dinner at the iconic South Beach gem Joe’s Stone Crab. The weekend festivities culminated in a black-tie awards banquet and Miami Bailliage induction ceremony at the beautiful La Gorce Country Club. On the picturesque patio, Bailli Radlauer introduced recently elected national officers Bailli Délégué National Harold Small, Chancelier National Heinz Hofmann, and Argentier National Rufus Cressend. Chancelier National Hofmann presided over the awards portion of the evening before the induction ceremony commenced. Following the inductions of two new members, Bailli Radlauer announced that she had a surprise and invited Barry Gersten to the podium. She explained that his partner, FALL 2014
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2 1 Officers and inductees. 2 Chancelier National Heinz Hofmann and Miami Maître de Table Hôtelier Lars Kristiansen. 3 Miami Professionnel du Vin Mackie Jones and Bailli Délégué National Harold Small. 4 Executive Chef Tim Nickey and Miami Bailli Nancy Radlauer.
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Chevalier Jerome Gomez, had secretly orchestrated his induction. As the applause subsided, Bailli Radlauer alluded to another mystery inductee and called Veronica Garcia, Chevalier David Garcia’s wife, to the front. Unaware that they were inductees themselves, these individuals had plotted to induct their dear friend; now Mackie Jones took center stage. This unusual ceremony was truly delightful. Buoyed by the sense of camaraderie and
fun, the group moved into the banquet room where floral centerpieces were alit with twinkling butterflies. There they were treated to the ultimate dining experience, perfectly executed by Executive Chef Tim Nickey. As parting gifts, attendees received commemorative Chaîne luggage tags compliments of the Miami Bailliage. Many thanks to the Radlauers for orchestrating this Chaîne-tastic weekend! GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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PHOTOS BY BRUCE LIEBERT AND MIRELLA MONOSCALCO
FOUR SEASONS continued from page 1
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1 Kauai/Oahu Bailli Hon. Mark Monoscalco, Honolulu Vice Chargée de Presse Susan Lee, Chevalier Toby King and Ecuyer Tai King. 2 Hawaii Island Bailli Kimi Matar, Hawaii Island Maître Rôtisseur James Babian, Hawaii Island Maître Restaurateur Christine Babian and Bailli Délégué National Harold Small. 3 Hawaii Island Vice Conseiller Culinaire Lee Harlow, Bailli Délégué National Harold Small, Bailli Provincial Bruce Liebert, Executive Chef Massimo Falsini and Hawaii Island Bailli Kimi Matar.
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4 H/PI confrères and national officers.
truffle-poached chicken was deliciously matched with Domaine de Chevalier Graves 2008. For dessert, we relished an array of sweets prepared by Executive Pastry Chef Melissa Logan and her team. Soon we were on our feet dancing and celebrating into the night! On Sunday morning, the golfers among us enjoyed a round of golf, Chaîne style. The resort boasts the first Jack Nicklausdesigned course on Hawaii Island and is home to the prestigious PGA Champions Tour. The course was challenging, but the oceanfront fairway views were spectacular and well worth it. (Let’s just say that after the previous night’s festivities, keeping score was not mandatory.) For that evening’s farewell dinner, we traveled upcountry to the Waikoloa Highlands, arriving at Pueo’s Osteria, an Italian restaurant owned by Executive Chef James Babian and his wife, Christine Babian. Chef Babian combines Italian products such as San Marzano tomatoes and prosciutto di Parma with local items from farmers’ markets. The evening was casual, with a lively atmosphere. The kitchen was busy sending out small plates, including Kona abalone, a creative eggplant panini, and arancini-pesto risotto. The bar was lined with bottles of wine for us to sample as we pleased. After dinner, Bailli Délégué Small inducted the Babians into the Hawaii Island Chapter to resounding applause. The chef also received a commemorative Chaîne plate, which he will display proudly at his restaurant’s front door. When the official events came to a close, some participants went straight to the airport for the last flight back to Honolulu and points beyond. Yet, many stayed on at the resort to play another round of golf or revisit the spa. We extend our congratulations and heartfelt thanks to Four Seasons Director of Special Events Scott Cairns and his wonderful team for pulling off a world-class food and wine weekend. FALL 2014
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PHOTOS BY AVANTE-GARDE IMAGES, INC.
Farewell Under the Tuscan Sun 2
1 Dame Jan Burrus, Dame Bronwen Goldberg and Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Lacey King. 2 Bailli-elect Ed Kolesar, Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Lacey King, Bailli Sandi Moran, Membre du Conseil Magistral Hon. Jeannette Boucher and Officier Commandeur Jerry Thirion. 3 Chargé de Presse Provincial/Vice Chargé de Presse National Hon. Roger Weatherburn-Baker. 4 Pair de la Chaîne Shelly Margolis. 5 Bailli Sandi Moran and Chambellan Provincial/Bonita Bailli Susan Vareschi. 4
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By Thelma Negley, Naples Vice Chargée de Presse Balmy weather, starlit skies, and a lakeside garden created the perfect backdrop for a farewell dinner on April 25 honoring Naples Bailli Sandi Moran, who was stepping down after six years of outstanding leadership. Bailli Moran and her husband, Chevalier Tom Moran, opened their elegant home, as they have so many times before, for this special occasion, which was attended by many distinguished guests as well as much of our chapter’s membership. Beautiful displays of ceramic coqs, platters of olives, peppers, and breads, and huge sunflowers brought to mind a Tuscan village festival. On the lawn, long tables draped in yellow featured more sunflowers, and strings of lights twinkled above the tables, adding to the ambiance. Each place setting had the charming touch of a tiny box filled with sunflower seeds and jelly beans. Three former Naples baillis—Commandeur Jeannette Boucher, Officier Commandeur Jerry Thirion, and Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Lacey King— posed with Bailli Moran and Bailli-elect Ed Kolesar for a picture of five generations of baillis! Chargé de Presse Provincial/Vice Chargé de Presse National Honoraire Roger Weatherburn-Baker introduced several important guests, including Great Britain Bailli Délégué Philip Evins and Wessex Bailli Régional Janet Evins. Pair de la Chaîne Shelly Margolis conveyed a goodwill message from Bailli Délégué National Honoraire George Brown, Jr. before offering a glowing tribute of his own, and former Grand Echanson Bruce Nichols spoke of his longstanding, warm relationship with the Morans. Chargé de Presse Provincial Weatherburn-Baker read a greeting from newly elected Bailli Délégué National Harold Small, who could not attend. Then, on behalf of our bailliage, he presented Bailli Moran with the first of two gifts—a framed copy of the Gastronome cover featuring her and her husband. Attendees extended accolades to Bailli Moran for her generosity, good taste, and graciousness and for all she has done to further the tradition of exceptional Chaîne events in Naples. Shortly afterward, she was presented with the second gift—a sequined Jimmy Choo evening bag. Following the delicious Tuscan repast, Bailli Moran invited us to bring our wine to the edge of the lake where tenor Livio Ferrari, co-founder of Opera Naples, sang “Time to Say Goodbye.” Suddenly, a glorious firework display lit the night sky, bringing cheers from the confrères. Countless special dinners have been enjoyed at the Morans’ home, but, fittingly, the very best was saved for last. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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Books You May Have Missed IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT LOAF By Samuel Fromartz Viking Books $26.95
THE GOURMET TOASTER OVEN By Lynn Alley Ten Speed Press $16.00
Alice Waters, renowned owner/chef of Chez Panisse and cookbook author, said: “This fascinating, beautifully written memoir reveals Sam Fromartz as that rare breed of cook: craftsman, historian and scientist all in one.”
QUESTION: Who knew you could grill a steak in a toaster oven? ANSWER: Lynn Alley.
For four years, Fromartz, winner of the “Best Baguette of D.C.,” traveled across the United States and Europe, perfecting such breads as sourdough in northern California, wholegrain rye in Berlin, and pain nature made with ancient wheat in the south of France. Dusted with compelling insights and tips from master bakers, his book is more than a culinary adventure story. It’s an indispensable read for anyone who enjoys rolling out the dough and kneads to take a deeper look at one of the world’s humblest, most enjoyable staples. THE GRAIN BRAIN COOKBOOK By David Perlmutter, MD Little, Brown and Company $30.00 Dr. Perlmutter has changed the way many of us think about our health, exposing what he considers to be the devastating effects of wheat, sugar, and carbs on the brain. By eating the right foods, he claims, you can profoundly affect how well your brain functions for the rest of your life. This book offers 150 easy-to-make recipes that not only taste good but will also keep your brain vibrant, helping to relieve such conditions as migraines, insomnia, and “senior moments” and even fend off Alzheimer’s disease and depression. If you’ve already forgotten the title of this book, you might want to think about buying a copy.
Packed with such surprises, this book stars the oft-neglected, sometimes maligned toaster oven, which, the author demonstrates, can be used to produce a wide variety of simple, yet sophisticated meals. Evidently, it’s no longer merely the essential college gadget good for browning bagels and warming pizza. The author talks us through fifty mouthwatering suggestions, including how to conjure bacon-cheddar cheese muffins, boiled peanut-chicken skewers, and chocolate lava cake. What’s more, she offers wine and beer recommendations, and before you race out to buy a toaster, she even suggests which brands your gourmet kitchen should not be w ithout. 500 MAIN COURSE RECIPES By Jenni Fleetwood Greene & Golden $12.00 Jenni Fleetwood, a professional food writer and editor, has written many cookbooks on international cuisines ranging from African to Middle Eastern. Also featuring international fare, this book is dedicated to a single course—the main one. Believing that the main course has been eclipsed by a spotlight on creative first and last courses, the author has compiled 500 step-by-step entrée recipes taken from some of the best cuisines in the world. The suggested dishes are “guaranteed to bring excitement to the dinner table.” By using a wealth of international ingredients, she brings global flavor to family meals, quick suppers, and lavish dinner parties, all beautifully illustrated with more than 500 photographs.
By Roger Weatherburn-Baker, Southeast Chargé de Presse Provincial/Vice Chargé de Presse National Honoraire FALL 2014
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Chaîne at the Cinema DINNER AND A MOVIE, WITH A DIFFERENCE It brought new meaning to the expression dinner and a movie. In this case, we had dinner in the movie theater and had the theater all to ourselves. The event on September 17 was one of the Naples Bailliage’s summer dine-arounds. Naples is a seasonal city. In the winter, when it’s cold up north and snowbirds descend on Florida, attendance at bailliage events triples. In the summer, attendance is much lower. The board uses this opportunity and its small core of year-round members to scout and test possible locations for full-blown winter events, or sometimes just to dine around town trying something new or different. Naples’ Silverspot Theatre is one of the country’s newest, luxury movie-going experiences, offering deep leather seating, state-of-the-art projection and sound, and food and wine that can be taken into the theater. Dame de la Chaîne Robin Hamilton proposed renting one of Silverspot’s theaters for a showing of Bottle Shock, the 2008 comedy based loosely on the wine industry’s seminal event known as the “Judgment of Paris.” It wasn’t as costly as expected as Dame de la Chaîne Hamilton managed to arrange a heavily discounted rate. Attendees mingled in the lounge enjoying hors d’oeuvres and their own bottles of wine, or a glass purchased at the private bar, before Bailli Ed Kolesar announced showtime. Everyone thought the whole idea was a great one: an innovative concept, an opportunity to socialize with fellow confrères in a casual environment, and a welcome relief from the summer doldrums. Of course, as a dining experience, it wasn’t even close to customary Chaîne standards and might have given some more bottle shock than they expected. But, like the “Judgment of Paris,” the unexpectedly high points scored might just have stimulated a whole new way of looking at Chaîne events. FILM REVIEW: THE HUNDRED-FOOT JOURNEY The movie’s intriguing title refers to the distance between two restaurants located in a quiet village in the south of France. On one side of the road is a hoity-toity, Michelin-starred restaurant run with a pinch of Gallic snobbery by its fastidious proprietor, Madame Mallory (Helen Mirren). On the other is a boisterous Indian restaurant with the pungent smells and sounds of a Mumbai back street run by Papa Kadam (veteran Bollywood star Om Puri). Of course, there’s a clash of cultures as loud as a stainless steel stockpot falling on a tiled floor. But that’s only a part of the story, which has as many layers as a Spanish onion. On the surface, it’s about two restaurants competing for business, offering dining concepts as far apart as their ethnic origins on the globe. In the center, it’s about dueling chefs. One is an arrogant, racist Frenchman living off a Michelin-star reputation. The other is Papa’s son, a charming young Indian with an intuitive gift bordering on brilliance. At its heart, it’s a love story. The go-between for the feuding restaurants is Marguerite (Charlotte Le Bon), a sous-chef in Madame Mallory’s kitchen who begins a relationship with the handsome Hassan (Manish Dayal) by loaning him classic French cookbooks whose time-honored recipes, flavors, and techniques he blends with those of his homeland. The outcome of the storyline is as predictable as it is unlikely. But it’s a charming tale. Some critics have declared the film as empty as a pastry shell, but it does put haute cuisine center stage, providing a look at what it takes to be a supernova in the lofty world of Michelin stars. A movie released by DreamWorks that has Oprah Winfrey and Steven Spielberg as co-producers is likely to be good fare anytime. Stir in a star like Helen Mirren and a director like Lasse Hallström (Chocolat) and you have a recipe that should whet your appetite. By Roger Weatherburn-Baker, Southeast Chargé de Presse Provincial/Vice Chargé de Presse National Honoraire
FALL 2014
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1937...It Was a Very Good Year
(Left) SE Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer.
(Right) Miami Bailli Nancy Radlauer and SE Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer.
By Charles Radlauer, Southeast Bailli Provincial Nineteen thirty-seven is the year I was born. While I certainly don’t recall the wines of that year, over time, I have amassed a small collection of that venerable vintage. My collection started in the early 1980s with the purchase of three 1937 Sauternes at the Chicago Wine Auction. In the 1990s, while dining at a marvelous restaurant in Beaune, I noticed an empty bottle of 1937 Burgundy and asked the proprietor if I could buy the “dead soldier.” “What is a dead soldier?” he asked. I indicated the empty bottle. He was mystified as to why I wanted a dead one, to which I replied, “You have live ones?” He disappeared into his cellar, returning with six bottles of Gevrey Chambertin 1937 by Piat. I chose two and carried them FALL 2014
home carefully. I added a 1937 Gruaud Larose and several ports. The final additions were a 1937 Château Latour and two bottles of St.Émilion. I planned to savor them on my sixtyfifth birthday, but life intervened. On my seventieth, dental work further delayed the tasting. Yet, on January 22, 2014, the forces of the universe aligned, and ten close friends and oenophiles (nine of whom are Chaîne members) assembled at my home to celebrate my seventy-sixth birthday. Chevalier Lewis Eastlick played sommelier. Chef Jeffrey Applebaum, ably assisted by my wife, Miami Bailli Nancy Radlauer, prepared the cuisine. The table was set with Moser crystal, antique china, and Grand Baroque silverware. The first course of roasted red peppergoat cheese torte paired well with Gevrey Chambertin 1937. The wine was remarkably
lively, offering raspberries on the nose and currant on the palate. Pan-seared foie gras with fig compote was escorted by the brilliantly alive Château Gilette Crème de Tête Sauternes 1937, with its sweet apricot nectar and long finish. Chilean sea bass cake was then married with Gruaud Larose 1937, which had a pleasant nose but appeared light for a Médoc. The entrée of bone marrow-crusted filet was served with Château Latour 1937. This wine was remarkable for its age, offering a pleasant bouquet and light berry flavors. Escorting the cheese course, Château la Perle du Bregnet St.-Émilion 1937 was the evening’s most robust red. Dinner closed with cherry clafouti with Chantilly cream, with which I served Quinta do Noval Colheita Port 1937. With such an auspicious start to 2014, I was left thinking it will also prove to be a very good year! GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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DELAWARE VALLEY SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN
Heart and Soul of Italy By Ellen Rosenberg, Vice Chargée de Presse
On March 23, the Delaware Valley Mondiale gathered at Savona restaurant in Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania, to celebrate wines from Italy’s middle provinces. While most of the wines were traditional to their roots, a few were a revelation since they were quite rare. Executive Chef Drew Masciangelo is known for updating traditional Italian recipes with fresh flavors. Our journey began in Lombardy with Italian hors d’oeuvres, paired with Berlucchi Cuvée 61 Imperiale Brut Franciacorta. We then traveled to Umbria for plancha-seared branzino with lentil salad and pomegranate, matched with Castello della Sala Chardonnay Bramito del Cervo 2011. During our visit to Tuscany, two contrasting wines—Cabreo Il Borgo Toscana IGT 1997 and Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2005—accompanied short rib ravioli with hedgehog mushrooms and goat cheese ricotta. Campania was represented by lamb rack with lamb shoulder polenta, married with Feudi di San Gregorio Irpinia Serpico 2005. Our journey concluded in Abruzzo with the very rare Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 1982 served with a selection of international cheeses. We appreciated this tour of Italy’s heart and soul through its wines as well as the learning experience provided by sampling lesser-known vintages. This, combined with the care Chef Masciangelo took in designing a special menu to complement these wines, resulted in a very satisfying experience for all.
(Above) Vice Chancelier-Argentier Matthew Karstetter, Dame Natasha Dugalic and Chevalier Stevan Dugalic. (Below) Dame Susan Quirk, Dame Julie Mezrow and Craig Mezrow.
HARTFORD
Unique Cocktail and Wine Dinner By Ann Waller, Vice Chargée de Presse On April 6, Hartford Bailliage members were treated to a unique tasting menu paired with innovative artisanal cocktails and fine wines at Vinted Wine Bar & Kitchen. Co-Owners Ralph Santaniello and Executive Chef Michael Presnal pulled out all the stops in demonstrating what their chic wine bar can do. Before dinner, we took the opportunity to present Chaîne ribbons to new members Chevalier Arthur Blumer and Dame de la Chaîne Sandra Blumer, who were unable to attend February’s induction dinner. The menu featured creative spins on classic drinks to complement the equally creative dishes. Quail egg poppers with caviar, melted onions, and pretzel crumbs were served with Blood and Sand cocktails made with Compass FALL 2014
Box Asyla Scotch Whisky and Carpano Antica. With the next two courses of diver scallop crudo and polenta ravioli, we sipped Picollo Ernesto Gavi di Gavi 2013 and Prince of Wales cocktails made with Hine VSOP Cognac, Sandeman Madeira, Grand Marnier, and sparkling wine. Suckling pig belly was escorted by a complex cocktail called “Storm of Envy”—a blend of Angel’s Envy bourbon, St. Germain, Sandeman Ruby Port, and ginger beer. The delicious dessert trio of bacon gelato cones, ricotta beignets, and Meyer lemon tart was enhanced by a red dessert wine from France. The evening was a testament not only to how enterprising new restaurants are reinventing food and wine but to how Hartford Bailliage officers are able to work with chefs and owners to present something truly special for their members.
(Above) Patricia Kasprzak, Officier Jason Kasprzak and Heather Loranger. (Below) Chevalier Len Solimene and Dame Lisa Shea.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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HONOLULU
Ginza in Hawaii By Susan Lee, Vice Chargée de Presse Ginza, an upscale area of Tokyo known for its fashion houses, trendy boutiques, and A-list restaurants, shared a dining gem with the Honolulu Bailliage on April 12 at a new Honolulu hot spot, Sushi Ginza Onodera. Bailli Sid Lee greeted and seated us quickly, so that we could leisurely savor the twenty-five-course menu prepared by Chef de Cuisine Osamu Matsuura. The amuse-bouche of pickled Chinese cabbage with Kahuku corn and bonito flakes was served in beautiful porcelain bowls. Arriving next was a sashimi trio comprised of Spanish mackerel from Chiba, seared tuna belly from Okinawa, and steamed Big Island abalone. Grilled firefly squid was served with Pierre Peters Cuvée Spéciale les Chétillons Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2006. The tiny, tender squid have photophores at the ends of their tentacles that light up like glow sticks during mating season in Toyama Bay. The charred tentacles added the perfect bitterness to this delicacy. What followed was a seemingly endless parade of hand-pressed sushi. Each bite was accented by a lovely accompaniment, such as a dash of yuzu juice, a sprinkle of scallop-shiitake salt, or a brushstroke of soy sauce.
Vice Chargée de Presse Susan Lee, Sous-Chef Shinsuke Mizutani, Bailli Sidney Lee and Chef de Cuisine Osamu Matsuura.
In addition to several sparkling wines, we also partook of Nishida Denshu Tokubetsu Junmai Sake from the Aomori prefecture. This wellstructured sake had a vanilla nose and a palate infused with touches of honey and earth. The meal closed with brown sugar sorbet and coconut panna cotta with green tea gelée. Bailli Lee thanked Chef de Cuisine Matsuura, General Manager Shintaro Yano, and their amazing team for this outstanding dining experience.
JAMAICA
A Blast from Our Glamorous Past By Kerri-Anne Reckord, Vice Chargée de Presse On January 18, Jamaica Bailliage members gathered at the beautiful Jamaica Inn for their annual black-tie induction dinner. The event paid homage to one of the hotel’s most famous guests, Marilyn Monroe, who honeymooned there in 1957. General Manager/Maître Hôtelier Kyle Mais graciously welcomed the group. We were delighted to be joined by Bailli Provincial Ron Overend and his lovely wife, Nassau Bailli Isabella Overend. Bailli Provincial Overend inducted ten new Chaîne members and nine confrères into the Mondiale. Officier Kolleen Russell, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Athol Smith, and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique FALL 2014
Honoraire Larry Watson received commandeur pins, and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Smith received the Bronze Star of Excellence. The “larger-than-life” dining experience featured seven courses—each named after a Marilyn Monroe movie—prepared by four different executive chefs. What a treat! Dinner opened with a delicious Something’s Gotta Give seafood trio, exquisitely paired with Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial N.V. They say Some Like It Hot when referring to callaloo consommé, which was artfully married with Veuve Clicquot la Grande Dame Brut
(Left) Moët Hennessy Regional Marketing Manager Geoffrey Bouilly. (Right) Vice Echanson Christopher Reckord and Maître Hôtelier Michelle Hussey.
Champagne 2004. We learned All About Eve in the form of romaine topped with lump crab, poached quail egg, and tomato-horseradish vinaigrette. The culinary team brought down the house with Let’s Make It Legal smoked red herring cheesecake with pumpkin ice cream. The evening ended on a celebratory note as we toasted Maître Hôtelier Mais and his exceptional team for orchestrating such a glamorous and outstanding culinary affair.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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NASSAU SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN
A Taste of Whisk(e)y By Cecile Dean, Vice Chargée de Presse On March 13, at the Poop Deck at Sandyport, Owner/ Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Fred Lightbourn and Echanson Provincial Philip Hillier hosted a memorable whisk(e)y tasting for the Nassau Mondiale. Dinner opened with charred beef sirloin with mushrooms and pearl onions. This dish was paired with Seagram’s Canadian Crown Royal Legendary Whisky, created in 1939 to celebrate the visit of
King George VI to North America. Pulled pork with Jack Daniel’stamarind sauce was served with another American favorite: Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 Tennessee Whiskey. The next selection came from the Aberfeldy Distillery in the Scottish Highlands. Herb-roasted chicken was partnered with Dewar’s Highlander Honey Whisky. Our hosts highlighted an important spelling difference: in Ireland and America, the word contains an “e” (“whiskey”),
while the Scottish spelling is “whisky.” After the intermezzo, duck consommé was served with arguably the best singlemalt whisky—Glenmorangie 10 Year Old, established in 1843. A cheese trio was then escorted by The Glenlivet 10 Year Old from Speyside. Another lesson: certain Scotch whisky must have “The” capitalized in its name. In Perthshire, we sampled Edradour 10 Year Old, from Scotland’s smallest distillery. This little whisky was a big hit with
pumpkin-stuffed mushroom. Our tenth whisky, Macallan 12 Year Old, accompanied bacon-wrapped shrimp with jalapeño. At evening’s end, Bailli Isabella Overend presented Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Lightbourn with a plaque to commemorate the wonderful evening. We all felt sober but what would the morning bring? Surprisingly, no headaches were reported, which goes to show that nonmixed drinks are obviously better for you. Guid health!
NEW YORK
Daniel Vintage Dinner By Emily Klein, Vice Chargée de Presse Daniel: My French Cuisine traces legendary chef Daniel Boulud’s life through great recipes, including special “vintage” dishes enjoyed by the New York Bailliage at an extraordinary dinner on April 8. The repast opened with foie gras confit in port gelée, paired with Karthäuserhof Ruwer Auslese 1990. Arriving next was frogs’ leg velouté en croûte, married with Jean-Louis Chave Selection Hermitage Blanc Blanche 2009. Another culinary highlight was stuffed turbot with sauce Américaine. Chunks of lobster, artichoke, braised fennel, and one perfectly peeled tomato Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Omar Khan, Owner/Chef Daniel Boulud and Bailli Jim Wallick. completed this dish, which was escorted by Joseph Drouhin Clos des Mouches Blanc 2000. For dessert, the incomparable pastry team presented baked Alaska Calf’s head “en tortue” was prepared to resemble a turtle shell. and Honeycrisp apple charlotte, served with Château Rieussec Sauternes Louisiana crayfish, poached quail egg, and cockscomb finished the Premier Cru Classé 1998. presentation, which was the most amazing creation this author has Several members generously donated wines for this special event. ever seen. Château Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1990 was an ideal We lauded Executive Chef Jean François Bruel, Chef de Cuisine Eddy wine mate. Leroux, Banquet Chef Arno Busquet, Executive Pastry Chef Ghaya Pressed duck with pommes Dauphine was accompanied by Château Oliveira, and Head Sommelier Rajeev Vaidya for their tremendous Lynch-Bages 1975 in Jeroboam. This offering was something to behold, efforts in orchestrating such a magical evening. with its beautiful, crisp skin and tantalizing aroma.
FALL 2014
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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PALM BEACH
Crazy for Cacao By George A.F. Schulte, Vice Chargé de Presse You know it’s going to be an exceptional evening when you are handed a glass of Dom Perignon 2003 upon entering the garden terrace of the Mar-a-Lago Club on your way to the foie gras station. This was how the Palm Beach Bailliage’s “Crazy for Cacao”-themed induction dinner on December 16 opened. Following the ceremony, we moved to the veranda for innovative, delicious hors d’oeuvres featuring chocolate as the main ingredient. In the grand salon, Bailli Melisande Wolff led a champagne toast to the new inductees. Suddenly, singers standing amid our group burst into song. These members of the Palm Beach Opera’s Young Artist Program serenaded us with selections from Die Fledermaus, The Barber of Seville, and My Fair Lady. Dinner opened with chili- and curry-dusted diver scallop with white chocolateyogurt panna cotta, accompanied by Dorniere Rosé 2011. Arriving next was white chocolate and cauliflower velouté, paired with Zardetto Prosecco. The entrée featured an array of chocolate flavors. Kona coffee- and dark cocoacrusted prime beef tenderloin and hot chocolate-braised veal cheek were plated with white chocolate-parsnip mousse. For dessert, we savored a beautiful gâteau bombe. Who could argue with Château d’Yquem 1998 to sip with it? Before returning to the veranda for port, cigars, and more chocolate, we showered accolades upon Executive Chef Aaron Fuller, Executive Pastry Chef Graham Randall, and Restaurant Director Edgar Martinez for their stunning execution of the theme.
(Above) West Palm Beach Vice Echanson Hon. Arlette Gordon and West Palm Beach Vice Chargée de Missions Elizabeth Bowden. (Right) Claudio Mankevich and Bailli Melisande Wolff.
PALM SPRINGS
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Induction Camaraderie By Annette Rakowitz, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Honoraire
rôtisseurs, thanking them for creating outstanding events throughout the years. To the members of the
The Palm Springs Bailliage held its induction gala on January 13 at the Reserve Club, nestled in the foothills of the Santa Rosa Mountains. Surrounded by rugged cliffs and canyons, the club exudes a sense of serenity in its dramatically beautiful setting. At the lively reception, attendees chatted, laughed, and posed for pictures. Bailli Marty Rakowitz took to the podium and introduced Chancelier National Harold Small, Conseiller Gastronomique National Honoraire Henry Schielein,
board, he presented Certificates of Merit. Hofmann, assisted by Bailli Provincial Bryan Stirrat, presided over the ceremony, which began with the elevation of Bailli Surdy. In addition, five new members joined our chapter, and five commandeur pins were awarded. In the elegant dining room, we were treated to the innovative cuisine of Officier Chef Rôtisseur
and Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels
Hugh Duffy. At evening’s end, Bailli Surdy, who is
National Heinz Hofmann. After expressing how
also the Reserve Club’s general manager, presented
much he has enjoyed working with Palm Springs
Bailli Honoraire Rakowitz with an engraved Baccarat
confrères over the past fifteen years, Bailli Rakowitz
wine decanter in thanks for his many years of ser-
announced that he was stepping down and appointed
vice to the Palm Springs Bailliage. The evening was
Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Craig Surdy as his
a fabulous combination of culinary excellence and
successor. He then introduced the chapter’s chef
Chaîne camaraderie.
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Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels
1 Bailli Provincial Bryan Stirrat, Bailli Marty Rakowitz and Chancelier National Harold Small. 2 Officier Chef Rôtisseur Bernard Dervieux, Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National Heinz Hofmann and Officier Chef Rôtisseur Philippe Caupain.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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SEATTLE
Dinner at Lynn’s Bistro By Robin Du Brin, Pacific Northwest Chargée de Presse Provincial, and Bertrand de Boutray, Pacific Northwest Bailli Provincial Once a quaint town on Lake Washington, Kirkland has grown to a moderate-sized city with many wonderful restaurants. Vice Echanson Greg Chan arranged for the Seattle Bailliage to dine at one such venue on March 23. From the moment we entered Lynn’s Bistro and were greeted by friends, flowing champagne, and delicious hors d’oeuvres, we knew we were in for a great evening! Three large tables comfortably accommodated the twenty-six confrères who had signed up for this first event on the 2014 calendar. Dinner opened with escargots en croûte, followed by pan-seared foie gras with caramelized pears, accompanied by Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2003. Our choice of scallops or monkfish was perfectly complemented by Château de ChassagneMontrachet 2010. For the entrée, a classic French dish—filet mignon in brandy-black peppercorn sauce—was paired with Domaine Gouges les Chenes Carteaux Nuits-St.-Georges 2006. The dessert of warm chocolate cake made it easier to contemplate having to go back out in the rain. Yet, first we extended thanks and kudos to Owner/ Chef Lynn Tran and her staff, whom Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Robert Cugini recognized with Seattle Chaîne pins. What will also be remembered was our happiness at getting together
SILICON VALLEY
(Above) Bailli Provincial Bertrand de Boutray, Chevalier Dustin Engelken, Chevalier Douglas Howe and Michelle Engelken. (Right) Dame Brooke de Boutray and Dame Michele Heidt.
around the table. This is one of the most cherished values of the Chaîne, and we need to maintain it as a priority to keep our organization special. Last but not least, we thank Vice Echanson Chan for making this memorable evening possible.
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Food as Art at Le Papillon By Gloria Sheridan, Vice Chargée de Presse Le Papillon, which consistently ranks on lists of top Silicon Valley restaurants, was the venue for the Silicon Valley Bailliage’s dinner on April 19. Executive Chef Scott Cooper’s culinary talents always impress, and his innovative dishes reflect his passion for and dedication to serving world-class cuisine. That evening he conducted a sous vide cooking class for attendees. Before sitting down to Chef Cooper’s five-course dinner, we were treated to an array of delicious hors d’oeuvres, including sea urchin panna cotta, duck terrine with truffled apricot preserve, lobster with brandade with browned butter vinaigrette, and Parmesan pudding with pickled wild mushroom. All were artfully plated and presented. In the intimate dining room, our feast continued with an appetizer of grapefruit-cured Arctic char FALL 2014
with smoked roe, crème fraiche, and Crystal lettuce, paired with Domaine Franck Millet Sancerre 2012. The second course of pan-roasted Maine 2 scallop with caramelized fennel and black lime purée was accompanied by Ponzi Reserve Chardonnay 2011. For the third course, Chef Cooper prepared duck leg pavé with sour cherry and Shimeji mushrooms. The final savory offering was pan-roasted beef tenderloin with marrow emulsion, poached prunes, and potato gratin, married with Château d’Angludet Margaux 1988. Bringing the evening to a delightful close, strawberry vacherin with marzipan and lemon balm was escorted by Seebrich Niersteiner Ölberg Riesling Beerenauslese 2006. Chef Cooper’s beautiful food gave new meaning to the phrase culinary art.
1 Jean Baptiste Loire, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Janina Loire and Dame Harriet Pila. 2 Chevalier Dennis Swanson and Vice Chancelier-Argentier Sally Swanson.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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