E X T R A ! SPRING 2015
IN THIS ISSUE:
Chaîne Foundation Gives to CIA
REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGES AND YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITIONS
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Above and Beyond: Chaîne Stars and Mondiale Medals
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Chef Augusto Schreiner:
Puerto Rico’s Shining Star
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Spotlight on Tony Hirsh South Central Bailli Provincial
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Young Chefs and Sommeliers
Regional Competition Winners
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FAST FORWARD National Calendar Foundation Friends Happy Anniversary!
GE! Bookshelf Chapter Events 1
A Message from the Editor-in-Chief With most of our regional assemblages completed, we are delighted to feature them, along with several regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competitions, in this issue of Gastronome Extra! In this edition, you will find a list of the contestants in our National Young Sommeliers Competition (which recently took place in Santa Barbara under the direction of Grand Echanson Charlie Bennett) as well as a biography of South Central Baillli Provincial William (Tony) Hirsh. Peruse our GE! Bookshelf for some interesting culinary reads and check out the fresh collection of terrific local stories. We’ve added a memorial section as a final salute to our members who have passed away, and have noted our recent medal winners, Foundation Friends, and much more to help keep us connected. As a prelude to our 2015 Grand Chapitre in Puerto Rico, enjoy Virgen Acosta de Obén’s article on Chef Augusto Schreiner—Puerto Rico’s shining star. Marie C. Addario Editor-in-Chief, Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! Vice Chargée de Presse National
Chaîne Foundation Donates to the CIA The Chaîne Foundation gave $25,000 to the Culinary Institute of America to fund the Hal J. Rosoff Memorial Scholarship Fund at a recent Mid-Hudson at the CIA Bailliage event. The funds are used for scholarships for CIA s tudents. Bailli Délégué National Harold Small presented the check to CIA Senior Advancement Officer Denise Zanchelli, who is Mid-Hudson at CIA Professor/Vice Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National the CIA vice chargée de missions. Martin Frei, NE Bailli Provincial Gabor Huszar, Mid-Hudson at the CIA Since 1996, the Chaîne Foundation Bailli Gerard Viverito, Bailli Délégué National Harold Small, CIA Senior has contributed approximately Advancement Officer/Mid-Hudson at the CIA Vice Chargée de Missions Denise Zanchelli and Conseiller des Bailliages National Hon. Joel Spiro $750,000 in scholarship funding to (Foundation trustee and CIA trustee). the CIA. The Chaîne Foundation is funded by annual contributions from members, Foundation Friends, and proceeds from auctions held at the annual Grand Chapitre. Several confrères and prospective members witnessed the presentation. Additional scholarship funding has also been provided to the CIA by individual Chaîne members and bailliages. Hal Rosoff was Far West bailli provincial honoraire, and the funds were given in his honor and memory.
SPRING 2015
CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS GASTRONOME EXTRA! SPRING 2015
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Marie Addario PUBLISHER
Michelle Metter ART & DESIGN
artattack!creative MANAGING EDITOR
Carolyn March SPECIAL CORRESPONDENTS
Jesse Little Virgen Acosta de Obén Charles Radlauer
Published by the U.S. Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Copyright 2015 Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Ltd., a New York notfor-profit corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.
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GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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2015 EVENTS:
JUNE 12-14
ational Young Chefs N Rôtisseurs Competition Las Vegas, Nevada Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200
SEPTEMBER 8-13
I nternational Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition Budapest, Hungary Contact: Canada Bailli Délégué David Tétrault at drtetrault@gmail.com
15-20
Hawaii/Pacific Islands Regional Assemblage Honolulu, Hawaii Contact: Bailli Provincial Bruce Liebert at (808) 956-0807 or bruce.liebert@gmail.com
24-26
I nternational Young Sommeliers Competition/Australia Grand Chapitre Adelaide, Australia Contact: Grand Argentier Joseph Girard at joegirard@thewhalehouse.com
OCTOBER 2-4
15-18
F rance Grand Chapitre Lyon, France Contact: Bailli Délégué M. Frédéric Vieil at frederic-vieil@hotmail.com anada Grand Chapitre C Toronto, Canada Contact: Bailli Délégué David Tétrault at drtetrault@gmail.com
28NOV 1 U.S. Grand Chapitre
San Juan, Puerto Rico Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200
SPRING 2015
FOUNDATION FRIENDS HONOR ROLL Dominick Addario Marie Addario Anonymous Barbara Axel Barbara Burson John Burson Keith Chappell Rufus Cressend Bert Cutino Betrand de Boutray George Elliott Lois Ferrero Gogol Burton H. Hobson Hospitality Culinaire, Inc. Michael Kalkstein Cheryl Kenny Jill Kummer* Bruce Liebert
Shelly Margolis Tony Marshall Jane Ann Mathis Sandi Moran Tom Moran Joshua Daniel Mungavin Marcelo Obén Michael Parmet Martin Perham William Salomon M. Ann Sanford Harold S. Small Mont Stern Bryan Stirrat Michael Ty Irwin Weinberg Renee Wilmeth William Wortman
*In memory of Peter Hanowich
Congratulations to Our Newest Regional Officers Jennifer Denlinger—Southeast chargée de presse provincial Rene Marquis—Southeast conseiller culinaire provincial Rich ard Smith (Peachtree bailli)—South Central echanson provincial
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Letter from the President Cher Confrères et Consœurs, As I write this letter, I reflect back on the wonderful events that I’ve both attended and heard about. Our baillis and officers at all levels have been working hard so that members may enjoy more and more events. The creativity of some has been amazing, and the friendships and camaraderie have been very apparent. Nine of our ten regions have held assemblages since our 2014 Grand Chapitre in New Orleans. The assemblages provide opportunities for all members (not just baillis and regional officers) to enjoy. The first assemblage of the fall season is already on the national calendar on our website and will be held in September in Honolulu. Kauai/Oahu Bailli Kat Nicholson has arranged special hotel rates for the event, including dates before and after the assemblage for those arriving early or staying afterwards. Check the calendar frequently; find events you want to attend and register. You will not be disappointed. Our recent National Mondiale weekend in Santa Barbara was a huge success, with more people participating than ever before. An announcement of our 2015 National Best Young Chef will appear on our website soon after the competition in mid-June, and it too will have an article in Gastronome to be published in the fall. We started to plan for and began making improvements for the benefit of our members last summer. Some of these changes have already occurred and others will be happening soon. New merchandise for gifts and presentations has been added to our online Chaîne store and more will be added over the next six months. Check it out. Thank you to Editor-in-Chief/Vice Chargée de Presse National Marie Addario, as well as the chargés de presse provinciaux and local vice chargés de presse, for their outstanding work on Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! In addition, we have created a newsletter under the direction of Chargée de Presse National Michelle Metter, who has also overseen the development of our new membership brochure. It should be completed and online before the end of July. She has also seen to the creation of press releases and is beginning to focus on a major overhaul to our website. Our baillis provinciaux are accepting recommendations regarding changes to our website and will provide that information to Michelle. Continue to share the Chaîne with your family and friends. We are constantly working on bettering the Chaîne and your membership experience. Significant changes are occurring, thanks to the efforts of our dedicated and hard-working volunteer members and all for the benefit of our members. I look forward to seeing many of you at our Grand Chapitre in Puerto Rico in October. (Registration materials should be available online prior to your receipt of this issue of Gastronome Extra!) Have a fabulous summer. Vive la Chaîne!
Hal
CHAÎNE STARS of EXCELLENCE SILVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eugene Daly, Napa-Sonoma bailli William Harris, Albany bailli Allyson Hirsh, Myrtle Beach bailli John Dale Kennedy, Springfield bailli Sharon Kay Ray, Asheville dame de la Chaîne Howard Sherry, Santa Fe bailli honoraire Susan Small, San Diego officier Mont Stern, Northeast chambellan provincial Renee Wilmeth, Midwest bailli provincial BRONZE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Daniel Bruce, Boston vice conseiller culinaire Ron Fenolio, Napa-Sonoma vice echanson Bronnie Fisher, Myrtle Beach officier Michael Foster, Kansas City bailli David Hoiem, San Francisco vice chancelierargentier Melody Kettle, New Jersey vice chargée de presse Jay Kitterman, Springfield vice chancelier-argentier Joseph Koye, Delaware Valley vice conseiller culinaire Phil Kress, Laguna bailli Beth Poslusny, Asheville bailli David Radwine, Springfield vice conseiller culinaire Marlin Rains, Jackson vice chancelier-argentier Lynette Savage, Tulsa officier Jennifer Schulmeier, Jackson vice chargée de presse Robert Snow, Orlando maître de table restaurateur William Trippler, Orlando vice chargé de presse Albert Vontz III, Cincinnati chevalier
MONDIALE MEDALS of HONOR BRONZE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stephen Gaucher, Boston professionnel du vin John Lester, Myrtle Beach chevalier Richard Reich, Myrtle Beach chevalier Norman Rush, Jackson vice echanson
Harold S. Small Bailli Délégué National SPRING 2015
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Chaîne International
HAPPY ANNIVERSARY! Bailli Délégué des Etats-Unis Harold Small (a continuing member of the Conseils d’Administration et Magistral) reported that at the International General Assembly on May 30, Chancelier National Heinz Hofmann was elected to the Conseils d’Administration et Magistral and Grand Argentier Joe Girard was re-elected to these conseils, each for a three-year term. Elected to one-year terms on the Conseil Magistral were Conseiller Gastronomique National Ira Falk and Argentier National Rufus Cressend. Bailli Délégué des Etats-Unis Honoraire Burton Hobson was re-elected to the conseil for a oneyear term. Bailli Délégué Small has two remaining years on his three-year term as a member of both conseils.
In Memoriam JOSEPH BUNK, Wichita bailli honoraire SHIRLEY FERNBERG, Cleveland bailli honoraire/grand commandeur GEORGE R. HANSEN, JR., First State chevalier
Congratulations to the Bailliages des Etats-Unis Celebrating Milestone Anniversaries in 2015
50 YEARS
1965/December 12 Fort Lauderdale
40 YEARS
1975/May 15 Los Angeles
1975/October 16 Newport Beach
1975/December 1 Fort Worth
1975/December 9 Orlando
30 YEARS
1985/October 26 Spartanburg
1985/November 25 West Palm Beach
1985/November 30 Hilton Head
Thank you for your years of honoring the art of cuisine, preserving the camaraderie and culture of the table, promoting excellence in all areas of hospitality, and encouraging the development of young chefs and sommeliers.
BILLY RAY HEARN, Nashville bailli honoraire JOHN SORCIC, South Central echanson provincial honoraire CORNELIA WALMSLEY, Buffalo vice conseiller culinaire honoraire HENRY WARREN, West Palm Beach grand officier maître/haut commandeur ROBERT WARREN, Anchorage bailli honoraire
SPRING 2015
Photo Quality Matters For Gastronome submissions, please remember that all stories should be accompanied by 10-12 high-quality photos (of at least 1 MB each). Photos featuring a variety of people and dishes are a plus!
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Chef Augusto Schreiner: Puerto Rico’s Shining Star By Virgen Acosta de Obén, Caribbean/ Atlantic Islands Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial/Mayagüez Bailli When people think about great food in Puerto Rico, the first name that comes to mind is Chef Augusto Schreiner. A native of Austria, he graduated with top honors from the Salzburg Culinary School. His career was launched when he won a Gold Medal and a Jury Grand Prize at the Austrian National Apprentice Competition. Chef Schreiner has been Puerto Rico’s shining star of haute cuisine since 1974. Bringing local and international cuisines to the next level, he served as team captain of the first Caribbean Culinary Team to compete in New Orleans. The team won gold medals in two categories and was awarded the Grand Salon Prize. As a result, New Orleans made Chef Schreiner an honorary citizen. Under his leadership, the Caribbean National Team competed in the Culinary Olympics in Germany, once again winning the gold medal. As a Chaîne member, Grand Officier
Maître Schreiner has served his region as conseiller culinaire provincial. He was executive chef of the Caribe Hilton in San Juan from 1982 to 1988, when he opened Augusto’s Cuisine. Annually since 1990, his restaurant won the Golden Fork Award, until 2001, when it received the prestigious Platinum Fork Award. Chef Schreiner has amassed numerous
awards and accolades from organizations to which he gives generously of his time and expertise, including the Wine and Food Society of Puerto Rico, the American Culinary Federation, and the Puerto Rico Hotel & Tourism Association. He is currently devoting much time and energy to planning the menus for the Chaîne’s Grand Chapitre in San Juan this fall.
Meet Your New Chaîne Officer South Central Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh As South Central bailli provincial, Tony Hirsh looks forward to strengthening his region and developing new bailliages, involving the chambellans and baillis in the process. During his eight-year tenure as Myrtle Beach bailli, his chapter hosted a regional assemblage, a Young Sommeliers Competition, and approximately seventy-five Chaîne and Mondiale events. Born in Brooklyn, he grew up during the rock and roll era of Top 40 radio. After graduating from Michigan State University, he chose a career in broadcasting, working for companies in Phoenix, Detroit, Pittsburgh, and New York. His travels helped him expand his appreciation of regional and ethnic specialties. In 1989, he purchased radio stations in Myrtle Beach and helped found the original Myrtle Beach Bailliage. A business commuter in the 1990s, he joined the New York Bailliage. He returned to Myrtle Beach in 2004 only to find that the bailliage had folded. With some professional acquaintances, he and his wife, Allyson Hirsh, now Myrtle Beach bailli, revived the chapter, which now boasts seventy members and recently celebrated its tenth anniversary. To maximize their Chaîne experience, Bailli Provincial Hirsh believes that members should take advantage of as many of the vast opportunities the organization offers as possible.
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GE! Bookshelf THE COOKBOOK COLLECTOR
TWAIN’S FEAST
By Allegra Goodman Dial Press $15.00
By Andrew Beahrs Penguin Books $17.00
The author visited Manhattan’s Kitchen Arts & Letters store to research her novel about two sisters—one a dot-com genius, the other a bookworm—and a collection of 873 cookbooks left them by their uncle, who had stored them in every nook and cranny of his kitchen. This delicious tale certainly won’t leave you hungry.
While touring Europe in 1879, Mark Twain composed a fantasy menu of American dishes that he missed: trout from Lake Tahoe, Southern biscuits, black bass from the Mississippi, and Baltimore duck. Beahrs traces Twain’s footsteps with the mission of discovering whether these regional specialties can still be found on American tables and uncovers much more in the process.
Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition Winners FAR WEST Mateo Cancio La Posada Lodge and Casitas, Tucson, AZ
MIDWEST Matthew Phillips Blue Hills Country Club, Kansas City, MO
SOUTH CENTRAL Matthew Pate Biltmore Forest Country Club, Asheville, NC
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS Melanie Tancino Sheraton Waikiki, Honolulu, HI
NORTHEAST Spyridon Giannakoulopolous Three Village Inn, Stony Brook, NY
SOUTHEAST Devin Davis Tampa, FL
MID-ATLANTIC Geno Betz Paradiso, Philadelphia, PA
PACIFIC NORTHWEST Oleg Vetkov Canlis, Seattle, WA
SOUTHWEST Jerónimo Espiritu JW Marriott, San Antonio, TX
Young Sommeliers Competition Winners FAR WEST Micah Clark Steak & Whisky, Hermosa Beach, CA
MIDWEST Andrey Ivanov Reeds American Table, St. Louis, MO
SOUTH CENTRAL Femi Oyediran Charleston Place Hotel, Charleston, SC
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS Christopher Ramelb Southern Wine & Spirits, Honolulu, HI
NORTHEAST Mia Van de Water North End Grill, New York, NY
SOUTHEAST Jill Davis Four Seasons at Walt Disney World, Orlando, FL
MID-ATLANTIC John Filkins Potomac Selections, Inc., Hyattsville, MD
PACIFIC NORTHWEST Jackson Rohrbaugh Canlis, Seattle, WA
SOUTHWEST Kelly Wooldridge Mizuna Restaurant/Bonanno, Denver, CO
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SOUTHEAST AND CARIBBEAN/ATLANTIC ISLANDS REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE
Smooth Sailing for Floating Assemblage
By Charles Radlauer, Southeast Bailli Provincial On Monday, March 2, while much of the United States was coping with snow, a lively group of sixty attendees from the Southeast and Caribbean/Atlantic Islands regions set sail under sunny skies on a “floating assemblage” from Fort Lauderdale to Mexico. Under the experienced leadership of Southeast Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer and veteran event planner Miami Bailli Nancy Radlauer, and with Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Bailli Provincial Ron Overend and Nassau Bailli Isabella Overend helping to steer things along, there was no doubt there would be smooth sailing aboard the Celebrity Constellation. A welcome-aboard reception, complete with the Radlauers’ hallmark gift bags containing a Chaîne cap, mug, and commemorative pin, among other surprises, kicked off the assemblage. Tuesday was spent at sea, with many confrères attending officer meetings. So on Wednesday, when the ship docked in Cozumel, Mexico, all hit the beach running. Attendees enjoyed a festive meal with Cozumel Bailliage members at Bailli Francisco Morales’s establishment Pancho’s Backyard. After a few salty margaritas and with a mariachi band in full strum, serious camaraderie erupted into a fullblown sing-along that was heard three cruise ships away. That evening, decked out in Chaîne red, white, and blue, attendees assembled on the grand staircase for a group photo before dining on Franco-Italian delicacies in a private section of the elegant San Marco dining room. Following the customary onboard auctions and dance lessons, the group sniffed, bit, and sipped its way through a chocolate-and-port sampling under the guidance of one of the ship’s sommeliers. The following day at Key West—Hemingway’s home port—attendees enjoyed such local delicacies as conch fritters, pink shrimp, and grits at the Rooftop Café on Front Street. At the farewell champagne reception and dinner, all toasted their hosts and yet another winning high-seas a ssemblage.
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(Above) C/AI Bailli Provincial Ron Overend, Cozumel Bailli Francisco Morales and SE Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer. (Below) Miami Bailli Nancy Radlauer.
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PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE
Homage to The Great Gatsby 1
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1 Jean-Baptiste Loire, Silicon Valley Bailli Janina Loire and Bailli Provincial Bertrand de Boutray.
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2 Dame Brooke de Boutray, Seattle Bailli Hon. Carole Brooks, Chevalier Dennis Swanson and Silicon Valley Vice Chancelier-Argentier Sally Swanson. 3 Silicon Valley Maître Rôtisseur Lisa Benkowitz and San Francisco Vice Conseiller Culinaire Nasser Mobarak. 4 Chambellan Provincial/ Monterey Peninsula Bailli Glenn Hammer and San Francisco Bailli Elliot Katz.
By Robin Du Brin, Pacific Northwest Chargée de Presse Provincial The highlight of the Pacific Northwest Regional Assemblage from March 12-15 was a Great Gatsby-themed dinner at the elegant JW Marriott San Francisco Union Square. The hotel’s top-floor patio and banquet room were decorated to capture the opulence of the Roaring Twenties. Having recently viewed the award-winning film starring Leonardo DiCaprio based on F. Scott Fitzgerald’s classic novel, we felt primed to be transported to the grandeur of the 1920s. The fantastical ambiance, created by chamber music, beautiful Grecian statues in lush gardens, dramatic lighting, and lovely table settings made us feel SPRING 2015
as if we were at one of Jay Gatsby’s famous parties. Many attendees were dressed to the nines in period attire, and artists were on hand to draw those interested in posing. Incredible food matched the festive mood and gorgeous setting. San Francisco Vice Conseiller Culinaire Nasser Mobarak, who is director of hotel operations, and his culinary and management teams orchestrated a spectacular event. Kudos to all who helped make the evening such a rousing success. Vice Conseiller Culinaire Mobarak has been a member of the Chaîne for more than two decades. Since joining the JW Marriott
in 2011, he has helped the hotel achieve the highest Guest Satisfaction and Associate Engagement scores in its history. “I believe happy associates equate to happy guests. The favorite part of my job is mentoring my team and watching them succeed,” he noted. Our Gatsby celebration, and the assemblage as a whole, exceeded all expectation by those in attendance. Clearly, Vice Conseiller Culinaire Mobarak knows the secret to running a superb operation as he and his team continue to raise the bar in the world of fine dining. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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FAR WEST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE
Cooking and Camaraderie on the Coast By Leslie Ann Merle, Far West Chargée de Presse Provincial, and Bryan Stirrat, Far West Bailli Provincial The Far West Regional Assemblage during the weekend of April 10-12 began with a golf outing at the host hotel, the beautiful St. Regis Monarch Beach in Dana Point, California. Bailli Provincial Bryan Stirrat and Laguna Bailli Phil Kress treated a small group to a wonderful round with a birdie, some pars, and much camaraderie. Participating in the outing were Chancelier National Heinz Hofmann, Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! Editor-in-Chief/Vice Chargée de Presse National Marie Addario, La Jolla Bailli Dominick Addario, Newport Beach Bailli David Weinberg, South Coast Bailli Honoraire Chick Marshall, and Santa Barbara/Ojai Maître Rôtisseur Ruby Oertle. That evening, the group dined at Marché Moderne, a top French restaurant owned by Laguna Maître Rôtisseur Florent Marneau and Amelia Marneau. After Chancelier National Hofmann inducted two new members, Bailli Provincial Stirrat presented the Bronze Star of Excellence to Bailli Kress. Officier Commandeur/ Salt Lake City Bailli Honoraire Ashby Decker and Chambellan Provincial Honoraire Howard Gordon received conseil d’honneur awards. Special attendees were Guayaquil Bailli Carlos Pernigotti and his son, Carlo Pernigotti, of Ecuador. Saturday’s business meeting and lunch took place on the lawn overlooking the ocean. The relaxed setting was conducive to discussing such topics as how to increase membership and bailliage restoration within the region. That evening, the group participated in a unique culinary experience led by Laguna Maître Rôtisseur Laurent Brazier, owner of La Cuisine Culinary Kitchen. A Court of Master Sommeliers level-one sommelier, Chef Brazier gave a lesson on cheese and wine pairings accompanied by palateteasing small plates. Assisted by professional staff, attendees prepared the evening’s meal, which was superbly paired with excellent wines from the Laguna Bailliage’s and Conseiller Gastronomique National Ira Falk’s wine cellars. The assemblage concluded with a champagne brunch on Sunday at the spectacular Laguna Cliffs Marriott Resort & Spa. SPRING 2015
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1 La Jolla Bailli Dominick Addario, Salt Lake City Vice Chargé de Presse Martin Perham, Vice Chargée de Presse National Marie Addario and La Cuisine Culinary Kitchen Chef-Instructor Joe Impullitti. 2 Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Georgia Andersen and Chancelier National Heinz Hofmann. 3 Bailli Provincial Bryan Stirrat and Laguna Bailli Phil Kress. 4 Chambellan Provincial Barbara Breitbart, Newport Beach Vice Chargée de Presse Sheryle Ulyate and Chevalier Walter Lachman. 5 Conseiller Gastronomique National Ira Falk, San Diego Officier Melissa Seifer-Falk, Guayaquil, Ecuador Bailli Carlos Pernigotti, Chancelier National Heinz Hofmann and Bailli Provincial 8 Bryan Stirrat. 6 Officier Commandeur/Salt Lake City Bailli Hon. Ashby Decker and Chambellan Provincial Hon. Howard Gordon. 7 Dame Jeanne Stirrat and Bailli Provincial Bryan Stirrat. 8 La Cuisine Culinary Kitchen Owner/Laguna Maître Rôtisseur Laurent Brazier with staff and Chaîne confrères.
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NORTHEAST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE
Assemblage in the Capital City 1
3 1 Bailli Délégué National Harold Small, Albany Bailli William Harris, Executive Chef/Albany Chef Rôtisseur Kenneth Kehn, Manager Mary BirbilisBrough and Albany Maître Rôtisseur Jaime Ortiz. 2 Colonial New England Bailli Gerald Kraft, Chambellan Provincial Mont Stern, Bailli Provincial Gabor Huszar, Chambellan Provincial Hon. Frank Tate, Jr., Albany Officier Joyce Tate and Connecticut Vice ChancelierArgentier Hon. Theresa Huszar.
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3 Chambellan Provincial Marshall Berenson, Dame Kathy Berenson, Hartford Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jennifer Dunn and Hartford Bailli Gary Dunn.
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4 New York Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Andrew Cappuccino, Buffalo Vice Chargé de Missions E. Carey Cantwell and Roseann Cantwell.
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5 Buffalo Vice Chargée de Presse Jacqueline Cappuccino and Connecticut Bailli Allison Reams. 6 Vermont Bailli Liz Spitler and Dan Albrecht.
By Helen Cappuccino, Northeast Chargée de Presse Provincial/Buffalo Bailli The Northeast Regional Assemblage held in Albany got off to a great start on April 25 with a champagne reception at dp An American Brasserie, followed by dinner at Yono’s Restaurant. As always, the Purnomo family rolled out the red carpet for Chaîne members. Soft jazz music playing in the background set the tempo as old friendships were renewed and new ones forged. The attendees, who came from the far reaches of the Northeast, were pleased to be joined by Bailli Délégué National Harold Small and San Diego Officier Susan Small. At the Albany Institute of History and Art, Director of Development Elizabeth Reiss spoke about the museum’s collection. Following a portable feast courtesy of Mazzone Catering, confrères toured the “Triple Play: Baseball at the Albany Institute” exhibit, followed by the Walter Launt Palmer and Egyptian mummies exhibits. At Angelo’s 677 Prime that evening, Bailli Délégué Small, Bailli Provincial Gabor Huszar, and Albany Bailli Bill Harris presided over the ceremonies, inducting Chevalier Michael Babcock, Albany Maître Rôtisseur Matthew Delos, Dame de la Chaîne Lorraine Ferguson, Albany Maître Rôtisseur Michael Niccoli, Chevalier Bruce Sowalski, Albany Chef Rôtisseur Michael Stamets, Dame de la Chaîne Danielle Stephenson, and Chevalier Mark Tallman. Elevated confrères were Chef SPRING 2015
Rôtisseur Adam Foti, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Holly Katz, Officier Maître Rôtisseur Angelo Mazzone, Maître Rôtisseur Jaime Ortiz, and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Widjiono Purnomo, all from Albany, and Mid-Hudson at the CIA Bailli Gerard Viverito. In addition, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Purnomo received his officier commandeur pin, and Chambellan Provincial Mont Stern and Bailli Harris were awarded Silver Stars of Excellence. Each of the seven dinner courses built on the beauty and essence of the previous one. The team of Co-Owner/General Manager Jaime Ortiz, Executive Chef/Chef Rôtisseur Ken Kehn, Wine Director/Maître de Table Restaurateur Sheila Burke, Sommelier Seaborn Jones, and Director Mary Birbilis-Brough invoked exquisite memories of the last assemblage held in Albany. Albany Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Stuart Horn, Albany Vice Echanson Michael Thomson, Chambellan Provincial Stern, and Echanson Provincial Joseph D’Ambrosio offered insightful commentary about the food and wine pairings. Bailli Harris and Bailli Délégué Small honored the entire staff, as newly anointed Vice Chancelier-Argentier Katz passed out Chaîne pins in appreciation for yet another successful assemblage. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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MIDWEST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE AND YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
By Jesse Little, Kansas City Vice Chargé de Presse A beehive of activity in Kansas City during the weekend of March 27-28 found Chaîne members arriving from as far away as New York. Our host hotel, the InterContinental Kansas City, overlooks the fashionable Country Club Plaza shopping district. Built in the 1920s and modeled after the architecture of sister city Seville, Spain, this treasure offers beautiful landscapes, upscale shops, and acclaimed restaurants. The festivities began on Friday evening at the Johnson County Community College Hospitality and Culinary Academy’s new $13 million facility. Chaîne members dined with JCCC “Friends with Taste” members, who provide financial support to the institution’s culinary students. The eight-course menu was prepared by student-chefs led by chef-educators and consumed with joy by all in attendance. Saturday was busy, with tours of the National World War I Museum and the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art with a special showing of drawings by Spanish Master Chef Ferran Adrià. JCCC Culinary Instructor Felix Sturmer and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Chris Koetke led the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition while an excellent officers’ luncheon was served at the historic Raphael Hotel. Bailli Délégué National Harold Small presided over the induction and awards ceremony that evening at the Carriage Club. He inducted two new members and elevated Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Koetke and Chambellan Provincial Irwin Weinberg as well as Kansas City officers Vice Echanson John Hartman, Vice Chargé de Presse Jesse Little, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Kay Moffat, Vice Chargée de Missions Susann Riffe, and Vice ChancelierArgentier Elena Wahbeh. Chicago Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Honoraire Bob Beilfuss, Jr. and Kansas City Dame de la Chaîne Ruth Wendel both received their commandeur pins. In addition, Echanson Provincial/Kansas City Bailli Mike Foster received a Bronze Star of Excellence, and Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth was awarded a Silver Star of Excellence. The formalities concluded with the announcement that Matthew Phillips, a sous-chef at the Blue Hills Country Club, had taken top honors in the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. Attendees enjoyed Executive Chef Brad Trewhitt’s delectable six-course menu while a jazz trio played throughout the evening. Dining, dancing, and conversing with friends new and old was the perfect way to end a full and exciting assemblage. SPRING 2015
PHOTOS BY JASON DAILEY AND J.T. MAYER
Everything’s Up to Date in Kansas City 1
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1 Echanson Provincial/ Kansas City Bailli Mike Foster, Bailli Délégué National Harold Small and Carriage Club staff.
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2 Pittsburgh Bailli Jill Kummer, Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Chris Koetke and Chambellan Provincial/ Chicago Bailli Mon Roldan. 3 Winner Matt Phillips (Kansas City).
4 Cincinnati Bailli George Elliott, Toledo Bailli Ann Sanford and Chambellan Provincial Irwin Weinberg. 5 Wichita Bailli Theo Mellion and Kelli Mellion. 6 Competitors: Amanda Shoup (Pittsburgh), Nick Ellison (Cincinnati), Kevin Stack (Lake Shore), Chef Rôtisseur Marco Bahena (Chicago), Wade Bruhn (St. Louis) and Adam Gillaspey (Des Moines).
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SOUTHWEST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
Sizzling Culinary Competition in San Antonio By Jim Ray, Southwest Chargé de Presse Provincial On January 16, the Culinary Institute of America, San Antonio hosted the Southwest Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. The four contestants were Joel Klugiewicz and Rebecca Moon, both students at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Austin, and Jerónimo Espiritu and Samuel Santos, both employed by the JW Marriott San Antonio Hill Country Resort & Spa. The night before the competition, confrères from the San Antonio, Austin, and New Orleans bailliages dined with the young chefs and their families at either Boudro’s Texas Bistro or Zinc Bistro and Wine Bar. It was a beautiful evening with delicious food and wines at both venues, and all departed eagerly looking forward to the next day’s competition. On Saturday morning, the first contestant began at 9:00 a.m., with the other chefs following at thirty-minute intervals. Each chef was given four hours to complete the requirements while the kitchen judges graded them on timing, professionalism, product utilization, organization, and kitchen techniques. The tasting judges scored their plates on presentation, originality, and taste. Everyone was relieved when the last contestant came off the line at 2:30 p.m. All were in high spirits at the awards dinner that evening at the Omni La Mansión del Rio hotel. Most had been present for the competition and had been able to taste test the young chefs’ dishes after they had been scored and photographed. Having seen the contestants come this far, all had formed opinions about who should win. Following an elegant reception and dinner, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Marvin Jones, who had planned the event, announced Jerónimo Espiritu as the winner. The group congratulated Mr. Espiritu, whose victory makes him eligible to compete in the National Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition in Las Vegas in June. SPRING 2015
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1 Competitor Samuel Santos. 2 Competitor Rebecca Moon. 3 Kitchen Judge/CIA Chef-Professor Brannon Soileau. 4 Competitor Joel Klugiewicz. 5 Winner Jerónimo Espiritu.
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SOUTHEAST AND CARIBBEAN/ATLANTIC ISLANDS REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
Young Chefs Competition No Cakewalk 2
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1 Tasting judges: Talk of the Town Corporate Chef/SE Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Dan Drayer and Keiser University Center for Culinary Arts Dean/Sarasota Maître Rôtisseur Michael Moench. 2 SE winner Devin Davis (Tampa). 3 Tasting judge: AAC Military Regional Director Rene Marquis, CEC, CCE. 4 Tasting judge: 15th Street Fisheries Executive Chef/Fort Lauderdale Maître Rôtisseur Lenny Judice. 5 Kitchen judge: SE Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Hon. Thommy Thompson. 6 C/AI representative Jamal Small (Nassau).
By Roger Weatherburn-Baker, Vice Chargé de Presse National Honoraire and Southeast Chargé de Presse Provincial Honoraire Southeast Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Dan Drayer, who is also corporate chef of the Talk of the Town Restaurant Group, summed it up best: “When it goes on the plate, you’re done. You’ve made your statement to the public.” Five competitors from the Southeast region and Jamal Small from the Caribbean/Atlantic Islands region spent much of March 1 at the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale trying to live up to his remark by creating plates that made a very personal statement to one particularly demanding public. The public was a panel of Florida’s top chefs. At stake, top honors in the regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition, organized by Fort Lauderdale Bailli Jack Kane, CEC, CCE, the school’s academic department director. Yet, the road to success was no cakewalk. Contestants had to impress two kitchen and four tasting judges, each an eagle-eyed veteran. Kitchen judge Southeast Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Honoraire Thommy Thompson said, “We’re looking to ensure every product in the basket is used and their properties understood; excellent knife skills; SPRING 2015
cleanliness of work space; and a wide range of technical capabilities.” The tasting judges rated the plates not only on taste but also on presentation and originality. They set the bar high, and deliberately so. Fort Lauderdale Maître Rôtisseur Lenny Judice, executive chef at 15th Street Fisheries, explained why. “There’s a profusion of TV shows, books, and magazines now making the clientele more knowledgeable. The more they know, the more they demand. The more they demand, the more owners react by hiring the best they can afford. The more top chefs there are, the tougher the competition to win market share…. “Competitions like these and motivated young kids with a desire to learn from them not only keep the culinary arts alive but help prepare them for the increasingly competitive real world.” At an awards banquet that evening, Devin Davis from Tampa was announced as the Southeast Regional winner. Southeast Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer, who presented the awards along with Chef Drayer, also presented competition coordinator Bailli Kane with a $5,000 check to benefit the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
Culinary Contest in San Francisco 1
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By Robin Du Brin, Pacific Northwest Chargée de Presse Provincial On March 14, six area young chefs competed in the Pacific Northwest Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition at the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of California in San Francisco. Many confrères attending the concurrent Pacific Northwest Assemblage observed the competition. While some of our region’s esteemed professional members served as competition judges, others were lucky enough to attend the awards ceremony and superb luncheon prepared by students of the Art Institute’s culinary program. The competition began early in the morning. The competitors were charged with planning and preparing a three-course meal using previously undisclosed ingredients chosen by Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Hervé le Biavant, CEC, CCE. The ingredients included spaghetti squash, fennel, celery root, several kinds of mushrooms, potato, orange, pear, sole, and scallops. The six contestants were Julian Abejar, Andrew Hiller, Mayra Reyes, Michael Shieh, Oleg Vetkov, and Courtney Wohlert. After planning their menus with a team of assistants, the young chefs got to work preparing their dishes for the judges. Conseiller Culinaire Provincial le Biavant devoted numerous hours to the planning and execution of this important event. We cannot thank him enough for his hard work and commitment to this important program. Seattle representative Oleg Vetkov was declared the winner. We wish him the best of luck in the National Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition taking place in June in Las Vegas.
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1 Chancelier National Heinz Hofmann, Bailli Provincial Bertrand de Boutray and competition winner Oleg Vetkov. 2 Chef Director Mark Davis, CEC, Bailli Provincial Bertrand de Boutray and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Hervé le Biavant, CEC, CCE. 3 San Francisco Chef Rôtisseur Jerry Clopp, CEC, Chef-Instructor/San Francisco Vice Chargé de Missions David Jones, CEC, CCE, CHE, ChefInstructor Cindy Kushet, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Hervé le Biavant, CEC, CCE, and Chef Director Mark Davis, CEC.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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NORTHEAST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
Tenacious Young Chefs Impress 1
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1 Bailli Provincial Gabor Huszar, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Widjiono Purnomo, winner Spyridon Giannakoulopoulos, Bailli Délégué National Harold Small and Vice Conseiller Culinaire National Martin Frei. 2 Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Widjiono Purnomo and Albany Chef Rôtisseur Michael Stamets. 3 Kitchen judges SCCC Dean/Albany Chef Rôtisseur David Brough, CEC, and SCCC Professor/Albany Maître Rôtisseur Michael Niccoli, CEC. 4 Winner Spyridon Giannakoulopoulos. 5 Competitors, judges and Chaîne officers.
By Helen Cappuccino, Northeast Chargée de Presse Provincial/Buffalo Bailli The Northeast Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition, held during the region’s assemblage the weekend of April 25-27, was scheduled to take place at Schenectady County Community College but was moved to the Board of Cooperative Educational Services site due to a power outage the morning of the competition. Despite the last-minute venue change, the five competitors remained unflappable, plunging with verve into preparing their three courses with limited assistance from SCCC student-chef volunteers. Kitchen judges SCCC Dean/Albany Chef Rôtisseur David Brough, CEC, and SCCC Professor/Albany Maître Rôtisseur Michael Niccoli, CEC, carefully monitored the kitchen skills, preparation, and timing of the young chefs, who sought unique ways to use the mystery basket items to create visually appealing, flavorful meals for the judges. The baskets contained bacon, shrimp, duck breast, fiddleheads, sunchoke, SPRING 2015
pomegranate, passion fruit, branzino, and farro. Vice Conseiller Culinaire National Martin Frei, as well as Albany confrères Chef Rôtisseurs Joan Dembinski, Jose Arteche, David Campbell, and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Widjiono Purnomo, served as tasting judges. Only two of the competitors had previously participated in a culinary contest, and none had ever used a mystery basket. Nonetheless, their results were impressive. In the end, Spyridon Giannakoulopoulos prevailed. A graduate of Johnson & Wales University, Mr. Giannakoulopoulos, who was sponsored by the Boston Bailliage, currently works at the Three Village Inn in New York. The young chef was honored to receive accolades from Bailli Délégué National Harold Small as well as the judges, who look forward to following his progress as he competes in the national competition in June in Las Vegas. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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BEAUMONT
A Night at the Crosby By Kate Hambright, Vice Chargée de Presse “Oil!” was the cry across the nation on January 10, 1901, when the Lucas gusher came in on the Spindletop oil field in Beaumont, Texas, producing more oil in one day than the rest of the world’s oil fields combined. With this event, America’s biggest oil boom was created. Almost overnight Beaumont’s population soared, and everyone wanted to stake a claim or try their hand at wildcatting. At the epicenter of this whirlwind of activity stood the Crosby House, Beaumont’s premier hotel and a gathering place for business tycoons, oilmen, and all manner of speculators. The business-district landmark stood for the best Beaumont had to offer
(Above) Bailli Pat Daleo, Officier Suzanne Johnson and Vice Chargée de Missions Sharon Kosboth. (Below) Chevalier Don Fearn and Vice Chargée de Presse Kate Hambright.
in 1901. A menu from the Crosby dining room was the inspiration for the Beaumont Bailliage’s induction dinner on October 4. Owner/Chef Debbie Bando-Duit, AAC, CEC— former Beaumont bailli—prepared the spectacular meal at her restaurant Bando’s. Chef Bando-Duit delighted attendees by personally serving fried oysters Rockefeller at the reception. Argentier National Rufus Cressend presided over the induction ceremony, during which several new members joined the chapter. His lovely wife, New Orleans Bailli Yvette Cressend, was also a most welcome guest at the festivities. Following dinner, Bailli Pat Daleo thanked Chef Bando-Duit and her team for orchestrating a truly remarkable evening. Well-deserved praise, indeed! The grandeur of a bygone era still shimmered in the air as Chaîne friends bid each other adieu and drifted into the starry night.
CINCINNATI SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN
The Three B’s (and More) of Italian Wine By Graig Smith, Vice Chargé de Presse Rudy Basile of Vias Imports was the guest speaker at the Cincinnati Mondiale’s gathering at Heidelberg Distributing Company in Hebron, Kentucky, on October 14. Although the focus was on the classic “three B’s” of Italian wine—Barolo, Barbaresco, and Brunello—Vice Echanson Mike Monnin ingeniously introduced some other wines that indirectly fit with the “B” theme. With Owner/ Chef Michael “Funky” Forgus of Funky’s Catering providing the gourmet meal, we knew were in for a spectacular evening! Mr. Basile started us off with Bruno Broglia Gavi di Gavi 2002. Although this SPRING 2015
author was looking forward to the big Italian reds to come, this wine, with its delicate fruit and excellent balance Owner/Chef Michael “Funky” Forgus, Vias Imports representative Rudy of body and acidity, was a Basile and Vice Echanson Mike Monnin. crowd favorite. We were then treated to generous pours of As always, Funky’s Catering provided a a Barbaresco; three Barolos (including an outdelicious buffet dinner. The exquisitely prestanding Damilano Barolo Cannubi 2009); two pared fare worked wonderfully to showcase Brunello di Montalcino offerings; and a 2007 the wines. In the final analysis, Vice Echanson San Leonardo Bordeaux blend from Trentino. Monnin expertly orchestrated the pairing of Mr. Basile’s informative, engaging commentary superb wines and gourmet offerings, showing included details about the winemaker and us that learning can be fun indeed! region for each selection. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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DELAWARE VALLEY SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN
Pio Cesare Wine Dinner By Ellen Rosenberg, Vice Chargée de Presse On October 10, at Paradiso restaurant in Philadelphia, the Delaware Valley Mondiale was pleased to host Winemaker Pio Boffa, a fourth-generation member of the Pio Cesare family and current owner of its famed winery in Alba, Italy. Mr. Boffa proudly continues the legacy of his great-grandfather, who, in the late 1800s, was among the first winemakers to believe in the tremendous potential and quality of Piedmont wines. The family has great respect for the terroir and historically has kept production low in order to produce wines of the highest quality. Owner/Chef Lynn Rinaldi—a longtime fan of Pio Cesare wines—designed a flavorful menu to accompany Arneis 2012, Piodilei Chardonnay 2010, Nebbiolo Langhe Barolo 2010, and Moscato d’Asti. During dinner, Mr. Boffa spoke of the history and evolution of his family’s winery as well as his expectations for the next generation of Pio Cesare winemakers.
Pio Cesare Owner/Winemaker Pio Boffa, Pio Imports Owner Bart Pio, Donna Pio, Bailli Brian Thorne, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Matthew Karstetter, Paradiso Owner/Chef Lynn Rinaldi and Foundation Chair Hon./Pair Shelly Margolis.
Following the delicious meal, Chef Rinaldi and her team were applauded by all in attendance as Bailli Brian Thorne, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Matthew Karstetter, and guest of honor Pio Boffa presented her with a commemorative Chaîne plate.
ÉTOILE SOLITAIRE
The Hundred-Foot Journey Dinner By Franklin J. “Jay” Harberg, Jr., Vice Chargé de Presse “You French don’t know anything about fine dining!” was the good-natured charge of Owner/Executive Chef Kiran Verma of the highly acclaimed Kiran’s restaurant in Houston. “Who eats a salad just before dessert?” “What do you know?” retorted Owner/Executive Chef Jacques Fox of the equally acclaimed Artisans Restaurant. “You Indians put so much spice on everything, who can taste the food?” And so went the Étoile Solitaire Bailliage’s Hundred-Foot Journey dinner as the two talented chefs served delicacies from their respective cultures at Kiran’s on January 25. Inspired by the film of the same name, the evening opened with tasty appetizers, which left Chef Kiran with a slight edge. Chef Jacques moved ahead in round two with foie gras with tomato tartes Tatins and foie gras ice cream to which Chef Kiran responded with tandoori prawn and scallop. She temporarily SPRING 2015
retook the lead with her “Fire and Ice” intermezzo. Not to be outdone, Chef Jacques produced a crowd-pleasing entrée of stuffed quail leg and roasted breast mathurini style. The chefs collaborated to reach new heights with the dessert, sending everyone home with smiles on their faces and dreams of an international culinary brotherhood. Our bailliage continues to enjoy extraordinary dining experiences thanks to the creativity, organization, and enthusiasm of Bailli Robyn Wood and the support of Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jaci Day, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Marc Borel, Echanson Provincial Bill Ridelhuber, Vice Chargé de Missions Jim Wood, and Vice Chargé de Presse Jay Harberg. Please contact us to be added to our mailing list and join us for our next amazing event! GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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PHOTOS BY DUNCAN MULLIS
GRAND BAHAMA
Once Upon an Autumn Evening By Del Foxton, Vice Chargée de Presse With breezes cooling the air on November 24, Grand Bahama Bailliage members assembled for their fall season opener at the award-winning Flying Fish Modern Seafood restaurant—an island favorite. Attendees were greeted by Owner/Chef Tim Tibbitts and his team, who were ready to present a unique gastronomic experience. The attentive staff filled our glasses with Biagio Prosecco Brut N.V. in preparation for the molecular gastronomy offering of 63° egg, which was attractively plated with wild mushrooms and peas on a baguette. Arriving next was ricotta gnudi prosciutto with oyster mushrooms and truffle powder, perfectly enhanced by Bollini Pinot Grigio 2012 from Trentino, Italy. Chef Tibbitts continued to delight our palates with a culinary classic: rabbit ballotine with rabbit mousse. The dark fruit aromas and raspberry flavors of Echelon Pinot Noir 2010 made it an ideal mate for this dish. A variation of another culinary classic followed. Venison Wellington with beets and fennel found an excellent partner in Inspiración Valdemar Selección 2011 from Rioja, Spain. A South African dessert wine provided a subtle balance for the sweet finale of poached apple with vanilla bean streusel. For each dish so skillfully created by her husband, Sommelier Rebecca Tibbitts chose a superb wine pairing. It was another exquisite meal at Flying Fish and a great way to kick off our Chaîne season!
(Above) Katybel Taylor, Chevalier Andre Feldman, Chevalier Bill Willms, Chevalier Robert Anglade, Alison Anglade and Tory Carter. (Below) Bailli Frederic Ossude, Alexandra Rademaker and Rory Paton-Ash.
HILLSBOROUGH
Dining at Belvedere Cove By Clarine Hatfied, Vice Chargée de Presse It was a beautiful, sunny day at the San Francisco Yacht Club in tranquil Belvedere Cove for the Hillsborough Bailliage’s summer event on July 13. The oldest yacht club west of the Mississippi, it was founded in 1869 in San Francisco and relocated to Belvedere in 1937. During the champagne reception, attendees mingled on the deck enjoying views of the boats moored in the harbor. Dinner was served in the Commodore Room adjacent to the deck among the club trophies. After Bailli Lois Gogol welcomed the group, Echanson Provincial Honoraire Orley Hatfield provided commentary on the evening’s wines. Bailli Honoraire Harry Dokouzian elevated Officier Joe Bronzini, a longtime member of the Hillsborough SPRING 2015
Chapter. Following several delightful courses, the succulent entrée of grilled lamb rack was paired with Produttori del Barbaresco 2009 from Piedmont. Napa-Sonoma Vice Echanson Ron Fenolio gave a brief history of the wines produced in this region of Italy. The meal closed with a delicious peach cobbler. Bailli Gogol thanked Executive Chef Reny Madrid for the superb meal and presented him with a Chaîne plaque. Dame de la Chaîne Rachel Leader, who is a member of the yacht club, was thanked for arranging the event there. All agreed that it was the perfect way to spend a summer evening, and it was with some reluctance that they left the gorgeous setting.
(Above) Bailli Lois Gogol, Dame Rachel Leader and Executive Chef Reny Madrid. (Below) Napa-Sonoma Vice Echanson Ron Fenolio and Echanson Provincial Hon. Orley Hatfield.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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HILLSBOROUGH
Waterbar Under the Bay Bridge By Clarine Hatfield, Vice Chargée de Presse Waterbar, a San Francisco dining spot known for its delicious seafood and panoramic views of San Francisco Bay, was the venue for the Hillsborough Bailliage’s event on June 14. Nestled under the Bay Bridge, Waterbar offers spectacular views of the bridge with its twinkling lights. The champagne reception was held on a private terrace in the Bridge Tower. One attendee observed that it felt like being on a ship going out to sea. An exquisite four-course menu planned by Executive Chef Parke Ulrich and executed by Chef de Cuisine Justin Baade was served in a beautiful room next to the terrace. For the entrée, one could choose cedar-baked salmon or pepper-crusted beef filet. The salmon was paired with Roar Sierra Mar Vineyard Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 2011, while the beef was matched with Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2010, which the group agreed was one of the evening’s best wines. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Chef Ulrich strives to serve simple, delicious food that is fresh, healthy, and locally grown. His menus at Waterbar change daily. Following dinner, Bailli Lois Gogol presented Chef Ulrich and Chef de Cuisine Baade with a Chaîne plaque and thanked Vice Conseiller Gastronomique John Lund and Dame de la Chaîne June Lund for arranging this wonderful evening.
(Above) Vice Conseiller Gastronomique John Lund, Chef de Cuisine Justin Baade, Bailli Lois Gogol and staff. (Below) Dame Kathryn Loughran, Officier Tom Loughran and Ecuyer Molly Loughran.
KANSAS CITY
Autumn Anthocyanins By Michael D. Foster, Bailli It is no coincidence that the
a ceremony officiated by Bailli Mike
Kansas City Bailliage’s annual induc-
Foster. Inductees felt the touch of cold
tion dinner always follows the
steel on their shoulders as he welcomed
anthocyanin displays presented in
each into the Chaîne fold. In addition,
deciduous trees. Red-, purple-, and
one officer was elevated, and three con-
orange-hued leaves announce the arrival of autumn, signaling the harvest and reminding us to be grateful for the many blessings received throughout the year. At these events, we greet old
frères received “Share the Chaîne” pins. Ruby-red and violet-hued wines evoked the rapidly changing, vibrant leaves just beyond the windows. During the intermezzo, many attend-
friends, share travel tales, and brag
ees commented on the beautiful,
about offspring who no longer reside in
glass-columned centerpieces featuring
our basements. We also meet our chap-
lovely fleurs-de-lis. What a night to
ter’s newest members. Our most recent
remember! Although there were no ice-
induction dinner, held at the Carriage
bergs, we did have to navigate our way
Club on November 15, opened with
around the ubiquitous anthocyanins!
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Dame Elena Wahbeh and Bailli Mike Foster.
Chevalier Luke Dlabal and Vice Echanson Hon. Brian Williams.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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PHOTOS BY DMT IMAGING
MONTEREY PENINSULA
Bastille Day Picnic By Mark Burger, Vice Chargé de Presse On July 13, the Monterey Peninsula Bailliage held its annual Bastille Day picnic at Indian Village, a little-known private picnic ground just off of the famous 17-Mile Drive in Pebble Beach. As attendees drove past the Cypress Point Golf Club, a French flag waving in the breeze let them know they had found the turn off. Amid a grove of very old Monterey cypress and pine trees was a splendid open picnic area, complete with fire pit. Chef Terry Teplitzky, owner of the long-established Michael’s Catering, tended the pit in which a leg of lamb was roasting on a spit in true Chaîne style, filling the air with the delectable aromas of grilled meat. Attendees enjoyed several passed hors d’oeuvres with glasses of crisp Sandhi Rosé. The cool sounds of Mario Flores and his band passed among the trees, mixing with the scents from the sea and the wood-burning grill. Before the meal, Chef Teplitzky offered advice on how to eat his barbecue oyster stew shooters. “Eating oysters is like eating Philly cheesesteak. There is a stance you use so you don’t splash on yourself. You stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and bend forward at the waist so the oyster is about at the point of your shoes.” As the grilled meats were served, Sommelier Raj Parr described the Sandhi wines being served and the wine philosophy of this Santa Barbara
(Above) Bailli Provincial Hon. Michael Martello, Laura Stahl, Sandhi Vineyards Sommelier Raj Parr and Professionnel du Vin Ronald Chaplan. (Right) Silicon Valley Vice Chancelier-Argentier Sally Swanson and Officier Stephanie Harkness.
vineyard. After lunch, as Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Glenn Hammer made introductions, a selection of French cheeses replaced the lunch buffet to round out a perfect afternoon.
SAN ANTONIO SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN
Faux in Love with Bordeaux By Mia Rosen When Daylight Saving Time ends in the fall, winter seems instantly upon us.. Whether one is heading home or going out for the evening, nighttime sneaks up quickly. In the dim, early-evening light of November 6, San Antonio Mondiale members gathered at Frederick’s Bistro for an exclusive wine tasting hosted by Vice Echanson Jeff Degner, a Certified Sommelier by the Court Master of Sommeliers. Attendees played the role of wine broker, closing the gap between producer and consumer. Vice Echanson Degner skillfully culled an assortment of Bordeaux for the eager taste buds of our group of faux wine brokers. Frederick’s Bistro is owned by Chef Frederick Costa, who was born in Vietnam and raised in France. He is known for creating decadent fusion dishes with a heavy French influence and a beautiful touch of Vietnamese umami. The Bordeaux we tasted came directly from the producers. These novelty wines are ready to be introduced to the American market pending market-purchase requests. The choices were delightful and varied in flavor and style. Tasters took notes on vintage, nose bouquets, and color variation. Throughout the evening, conversation flowed freely and laughter rang out through the room. At last, our contented group of faux wine brokers re-entered the fall’s elegant darkness for the trip back home. SPRING 2015
(Back row) Dame Sandi Goldner, Chevalier Harold Blewitt, Dame Jennifer Degner, Chevalier Randy Chudnow, Dame Fran Chudnow, Chargé de Presse Provincial Jim Ray, Dame Patricia ParkerWeber and Vice Echanson Jeff Degner; (front row) Officier Ladd Little and Bailli Vivian Ray.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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TULSA SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN
Triple Delight: The Wines of Portugal, Napa Valley, and Oregon By Steve Gerkin, Southwest Echanson Provincial Honoraire Napa wines prevailed against France’s most formidable red Bordeaux and Burgundy Chardonnays, forcing the entire world to take notice. Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon won the red division, while Château Montelena Chardonnay, also from Napa, ruled the whites. Both found their way into diners’ wineglasses that evening. The educational portion of October’s celebration of Oregon wines focused on the pioneers of the early wine scene there. Susan Sokol Blosser, David Adelsheim, Dick Erath, David Lett, Dick Ponzi and others were the “beautiful people” of the pubescent Oregon wine industry. Pinot Gris, Riesling, Reserve
WASHINGTON, D.C.
Chevalier Clark Bundren, Dame Mary Bundren, Dame Heather Revelis and Vice Conseiller Culinaire Andy Revelis.
Pinot Noir, a Syrah from the southern level of Oregon appellations, and a late harvest Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir rounded out the pours. The diversity and quality of the offerings strengthened the grandeur of the northwest experience. The Tulsa Mondiale continues its commitment to providing regional wine and food adventures for this important Chaîne subgroup.
PHOTOS BY REBECCA BURKA AND JUDITH MAZZA
At the Tulsa Mondiale’s three events at the Summit Club each year, a different major wine region is highlighted. Attendees are treated to a delicious dinner, wines from the featured region, and an educational program designed by Echanson Provincial Honoraire Steve Gerkin, a French wine scholar. At the March 2014 gathering, Portugal provided attendees with an ancient backstory as well as an assortment of unfamiliar grapes, including Alvarinho, Touriga Nacional, Tinto Cão, Aragonez, and Periquita. For their July event, Mondialites tasted more familiar grapes fashioned into famous Napa wines. At the Paris Wine Tasting in 1976,
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Pizza, Prosecco, and People at Al Dente By Claudette Veronica Ferron, Vice Chargée de Presse The setting: celebrity chef and James Beard winner Roberto Donna’s sophisticated trattoria Al Dente— part urban chic, part Roma, all Washington. The idea: introduce young foodies to the Chaîne and its ecuyers and showcase the vibrant Washington, D.C. Bailliage to other gourmet-minded guests. The goal: attract dynamic new members to our exciting, energetic bailliage. The result: a wonderful success! Epicures, young and youthful, new and seasoned, came together on February 5 for an evening of gourmet food, bubbly, and camaraderie. Chasing away the winter blues, Chef Donna tantalized diners’ palates with three kinds of crispy, thin-crust pizzas, baked to perfection in his dramatic centerpiece: a wood-burning oven. The meal would not SPRING 2015
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have been complete without Clara C Fiori di Prosecco, a clean, floral, Italian bubbly with hints of tropical fruit. Yet, equally appealing and engaging as the pizza and Prosecco was the lively repartee, highlighting one of the Chaîne’s lesser-touted fortes—the art of dinner conversation. Whether it was stories of travel, romance, adventure, entertainment, or art, the conversations among members and guests were stimulating, eliciting smiles, laughter, quizzical expressions, and timely retorts. As old friends reminisced and new friendships were forged, every conversation ultimately returned to the joy of fine food, fine wine, and fine friends—the hallmarks of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs.
1 Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Thomas Walsh, Kaan Zaimoglu, Chevalier Allan Kam, Chevalier Taner Gokmen Bolayir and Bailli Judith Mazza. 2 Chevalier Taner Gokmen Bolayir, Amanda Medlock, Kaan Zaimoglu, Dame Nicole Schiegg, Sam Page, Ecuyer Chelsea Clark and Michael Welch.
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