E X T R A ! SUMMER 2014
IN THIS ISSUE:
Midwest Young Sommeliers Competition in St. Louis
NATIONAL MONDIALE MEETING AND YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION
A CLOSE COMPETITION IN CUTE, CLASSY CARMEL By Judith Kellogg, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chargée de Presse Provinciale
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Northeast Assemblage
A Salute to Boston Greats
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Midwest Assemblage/ Young Chefs Des Moines Delivers
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YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITIONS
The Monterey Bay area is famous for its charm and beauty. There is no better time to visit the area than springtime, as Société Mondiale du Vin members discovered during the weekend of May 1-3. The fields of bright orange poppies (California’s state flower) shouted from the roadside as we approached the Quail Lodge and Golf Club, set in the lush Carmel Valley countryside. Grand Echanson Bruce Nichols and Pacific Northwest Bailli Provincial Michael Martello planned an extraordinary weekend for the almost two hundred members fortunate enough to attend.
National Young Sommeliers Competition contestants.
The official activities kicked off tion beside the lodge’s central pond.
attendees greeted Bailli Délégué National George Brown, Jr., Seattle Officier Elizabeth Brown, Bailli
Surrounded by old and new friends,
Continued on page 3
on Thursday afternoon with a recep-
Culinary Competition in Costa Mesa
PAGE 10 The Jewel of the Southeast
PAGE 11 Northeast Chef Hits Home Run
Johnson & Wales Students Receive Chaîne Scholarships The Chaîne Foundation awarded five Johnson & Wales University students a total of $25,000 in scholar-
PAGE 12 Cooking Contest in California
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FAST FORWARD Member News Book Reviews Southwest Cruise Chapter Events
JWU Dean of College of Culinary Arts Peter Lehmuller, Chaîne Foundation Vice Chairman Michael Parmet and JWU Center for Culinary Excellence Department Chair Edward Korry.
ship monies at a ceremony at the Providence campus on December 9. The scholarships will help fund the studies of these hospitality and culinary arts students. Chaîne Foundation Vice Chairman Michael Parmet and Rhode Island Bailli Paul Damiano presented checks to Saphire Godin, Noble Hopkins, Kristie Miller, Samantha Raymond, and Shuryon Wellons. The Chaîne Foundation is funded by Grand Chapitre auction proceeds, the Foundation Friends initiative, and annual contributions from members. The recipients were chosen after a review of applications and interviews of the finalists by Northeast Echanson Provincial Edward Korry and South Central Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Honoraire Peter Lehmuller, both of whom are deans at JWU’s College of Culinary Arts. 1
MIDWEST REGIONAL YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION
Young Sommeliers Compete in St. Louis
CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS GASTRONOME EXTRA! SUMMER 2014
PUBLISHER
Cynthia Holmes Eisenmenger ART & DESIGN
artattack!creative
By Charlie Bennett, Vice Echanson National Two talented young sommeliers—Andrey Ivanov of Elaia and Olio restaurant, and Brandon Kerne, recently of 33 Wine Shop & Bar—competed in the Midwest Regional Young Sommeliers Competition in St. Louis on March 23. It was an intense day for the competitors, who were run through a blind tasting test and a series of service tests by Master of Wine Geoff Labitzke, Echanson Provincial/Kansas City Bailli Mike Foster, St. Louis Vice Echanson Honoraire Chuck Fuhry, and Vice Echanson National Charlie Bennett. That evening St. Louis Bailli Linda McGovern and Chambellan Provincial/Indianapolis Bailli Renee Wilmeth hosted a black-tie induction gala for the group. Mr. Ivanov was chosen as the winner, earning him the privilege of representing our region (for the second time) in the national contest in May. Master of Wine Labitzke, who is director of sales and marketing at Kistler Vineyards, provided four delicious Kistler wines to enjoy with dinner and offered entertaining, informative commentary to attendees as well as great advice to the sommeliers. Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Wilmeth was great as the inducting officer, and Echanson Provincial/Bailli Foster and Vice Echanson Honoraire Fuhry were top-notch judges. Vice Echanson Honoraire Fuhry showed us the thespian side of his personality during the service competition as he greeted the sommeliers using different accents. Awed by the job that Bailli McGovern and Echanson Provincial Honoraire Patricia Wamhoff did in organizing the competition and dinner, Vice Echanson National Bennett remarked: “In the three years or so that I’ve been attending regional competitions across the country, no region has even come close to providing the level of logistical and professional support that Linda and Patricia gave us. Fantastic!”
Longtime Member Receives Chaîne’s Highest Honor Foundation Chair Sheldon Margolis was elevated to the rank of pair de la Chaîne by Bailli Délégué National George Brown, Jr. in a ceremony on March 25 in Naples, Florida. The National Board of Directors voted unanimously to honor Foundation Chair Margolis with the rank for his many years of service to the organization. The rank of pair (peer of the realm) is the highest honor afforded Chaîne members. Congratulations, Pair de la Chaîne Margolis!
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MANAGING EDITOR
Carolyn March ONLINE EDITOR
Karen E. Robert
SPECIAL CORRESPONDENTS
Charles Bennett Mark Burger Jeff Gullion Judith Kellogg Lee Kotwicki Nancy Radlauer Jim Ray Dennis Shay Kathy Shay Bryan Stirrat John Vyhnanek Published four times a year by the U.S. Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Copyright 2014 Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Ltd., a New York not-for-profit corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.
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Harriet Margolis and Pair de la Chaîne Sheldon Margolis.
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YOUNG SOMMELIERS continued from page 1
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4 1 Competition judges and organizers. 2 San Diego Officier Susan Small and Bailli Délégué National Elect Harold Small. 3 SW Bailli Provincial Rufus Cressend and Vice Echanson National Charles Bennett. 4 Chaîne Foundation Vice Chairman Michael Parmet and Chicago Bailli Mon Roldan. 5 Winner Jane Lopes.
Délégué National Elect Harold Small, and San Diego Officier Susan
Highlands.” The conditions are especially favorable for Chardonnay and
Small. Great Britain Bailli Délégué Philip Evins and his wife, Wessex
Pinot Noir, as we experienced during the tasting.
Bailli Janet Evins, also honored us with their presence. The group then dispersed to the dine-around in Carmel, after
“It is such an inspiration to see so many people doing what they love with so much passion,” one attendee observed after talking with
which everyone lauded their venue as the best, which was not surpris-
several producers. In fact, as a group, we were reminded of why we love
ing given the classiness of the culinary scene. The most heroic effort
the Mondiale, which, among other benefits, allows us to get to know
had to be that of Kauai/Oahu Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Honoraire
the personalities behind the bottles.
Mirella Monoscalco, who organized a Chaîne-caliber dinner for fifty-six at Cantinetta Luca. Friday morning’s Mondiale business meeting was chaired by Grand
Our appreciation for wine producers deepened at the “Evening to Roar About” at the Monterey Peninsula Country Club, an elegant Spanish Colonial-style venue overlooking the Pacific. Vintner Gary
Echanson Nichols, who was stepping down after six productive years in
Franscioni of Roar Wines spoke about his family’s evolution from
office. Official business completed, the group headed to the Santa Lucia
farmers to renowned wine producers. In the words of Robert Parker,
Highlands Wine Artisans tasting. The region prides itself not only on
Roar Pinot Noir 2004 “blew away all the competition from Burgundy.”
fabulous wines but also on fresh, sustainable, largely organic produce.
Vintner Franscioni’s son, Adam Franscioni, is poised to carry on the
The beautiful wines were accompanied by dishes made from perfectly
family legacy into the fourth generation. Executive Chef Colin Moody’s
ripened produce, high-quality cheeses, wild salmon, hand-crafted sau-
menu beautifully showcased the outstanding Roar wines.
sages, and succulent grilled meats. The Monterey Bay region is fairly young as a wine-growing region,
Saturday offered a variety of ways to experience the gastronomic delights of the unique town that is Carmel. Those wanting to stay on
with the first vines planted in 1973. Grand Echanson Nichols captured
the wine-focused track headed for Grasing’s Coastal Cuisine, where
the region’s vitality when he said: “Follow the fog as it rolls off the
Monterey Peninsula Maître Hôtelier Kurt Grasing created a luncheon
chilly Monterey Bay, evaporates under the warm Carmel Valley sun,
that harmonized perfectly with the featured Figge wines. Winery Owner
makes its climb up and over a rugged mountain range, and is finally
Peter Figge offered two wines with each of the first two courses, com-
cooled by the winds of the great Salinas Valley. This is the Santa Lucia
paring wines from the same vintage but from different vineyards. The
SUMMER 2014
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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first course featured two Chardonnays, the second two Pinot Noirs, and dessert a single Syrah. For those seeking a taste of California’s rich Mexican culinary heritage, Monterey Peninsula Maître de Table Restaurateur Patrick Phinny prepared a gourmet dinner at his Baja Cantina, featuring premium tequila cocktails. For instance, roasted pasilla pepper filled with lobster, prawns, and fish was paired with a Mexican “martini” (pomegranate tequila, orange liqueur, and orange juice), while the enchilada trio was served with a Partida Añejo Old Fashioned cocktail. Those who selected the “Food Tasting and Cultural Walking Tour” were led through Carmel’s gorgeous old arcades and walkways, learning about the town’s history as they sampled tapas at Mundaka Restaurant; gnocchi at Casanova; gourmet pizzas at La Bicyclette; and specialty olive oils, vinegars, and chocolates by local vendors. By the end of the tour, most were trying to figure out how they could move to Carmel! Of course, the most anticipated event of the weekend was the celebratory dinner following the National Young Sommeliers Competition, once again masterfully orchestrated by Vice Echanson National Charles Bennett. After a grueling day of competition, the eight talented young sommeliers deserved some pampering at the lavish dinner prepared in their honor by Quail Lodge Executive Chef Kenneth MacDonald. The nine glasses at each place setting announced that
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7 6 H/PI confrères. 7 Nassau Bailli Isabella Overend, Wessex Bailli Janet Evins, Great Britain Bailli Délégué Philip Evins and Bailli Délégué National Hon. Burt Hobson.
8 Grand Echanson Bruce Nichols and Bailli Délégué National George Brown, Jr. 9 Seattle Officier Elizabeth Rockwell Brown and Chevalier Walt Heinzer.
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10 Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National Heinz Hofmann.
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PHOTOS BY MICHAEL TROUTMAN
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PROFESSIONAL JUDGES CHRISTOPHER BATES, Master Sommelier; winner, National Young Sommeliers Competition 2012; owner, Element Winery, NY ROBERT BATH, Master Sommelier; wine education director, Culinary Institute of America, Napa IAN CAUBLE, Master Sommelier; winner, National Young Sommeliers Competition 2011; co-founder, SommSelect DAVID GLANCY, Master Sommelier; PNW echanson provincial; founder/ CEO, San Francisco Wine School
11 PNW Bailli Provincial Michael Martello, Galveston Bailli Jan Pozzi and Argentier National James Pozzi.
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GEOFF LABITZKE, Master of Wine; director of sales and marketing, Kistler Vineyards CHRIS MILLER, Master Sommelier; winner, National Young Sommeliers Competition, 2007; employed at Harlan Estate, Napa
COMPETITORS
OTHER JUDGES
JOHN FILKINS, Maryland and Pennsylvania (third place)
DAVID MERRILL, Salt Lake City vice echanson
JACOB GRAGG, Atlanta, GA ANDREY IVANOV, St. Louis, MO (second place)
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JANE LOPES, New York, NY (first place)
MARK MONOSCALCO, Kauai/ Oahu bailli honoraire MON ROLDAN, Chicago bailli
JEREMIAH MOREHOUSE, San Francisco, CA CHRISTOPHER RAMELB, Honolulu, HI
12 Vice Echanson National Charles Bennett, New York Bailli James Wallick and New York Vice Echanson Joseph D’Ambrosio. 13 Roar Winemaker Adam Franscioni, Aspen Bailli Barbi Benton and Roar Winemaker Gary Franscioni.
JESSICA WAUGH, Las Vegas, NV KELLY WOOLDRIDGE, Denver, CO
we were indeed in for the kind of food and wine extravaganza that typifies the best of the Chaîne and the Mondiale. As expected, the exquisite, delicious cuisine was accompanied by some of the region’s best wines. Then came the moment we had all been awaiting: the announcement of the winner. Vice Echanson National Bennett had assembled an all-star panel of judges, but, of course, the real stars of the evening were the young sommeliers. While previous competitions have been close, this one was unprecedented as the first- and second-place winners tied, which all thought virtually impossible given the complexity of the testing and the large number of points awarded at the end. The tie was broken by going back to the scores in the prelimi-
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nary stages of the competitions running up to the national. Jane Lopes from New York City was pronounced the winner, with Andrey Ivanov from St. Louis taking second place. John Filkins of Baltimore placed third. We have a strong competitor in Ms. Lopes for the International Young Sommeliers Competition in September. “I will try to make everyone proud,” she stated. As an indelible reminder of where her passion lies and a testament to her professional dedication, she has a small corkscrew tattooed on the inside of her wrist. As we look back on our rich and memorable three days with wonderful friends, we also look forward to cheering on Jane Lopes in Copenhagen on September 19.
The Chaîne allows Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chargée de Presse Provinciale Judith Kellogg, an English professor at the University of Hawaii, to combine two passions—her love of fine dining and her fascination with the Middle Ages. In addition to editing her region’s articles, she has written more than seventy-five articles for Gastronome, including several features.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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NORTHEAST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE
A Salute to Boston’s Greats By Karen E. Robert, Northeast Chargée de Presse Provinciale It is an election year for the Chaîne, and the Northeast Region will see a whole new slate of officers as of July 1. Thus, it was fitting that our region’s assemblage was held in Boston, where the terms of our current officers began back in 2008. Boston Bailli Marshall Berenson and Grand Commandeur/Vice Chancelier-Argentier Dean Lynch planned a spectacular weekend to honor two of “Boston’s Greats”—outgoing Bailli Provinicial John Vyhnanek and the late Lucien Robert, a beloved fixture on the city’s dining scene as proprietor/chef of Maison Robert. April 25 was a beautiful spring day. The magnolias along Commonwealth Avenue were in spectacular purple bloom as they led to the doors of our weekend headquarters—the stately Harvard Club. After a communal cocktail hour, attendees broke off into groups to dine either at the planned venue, Asta, or another local establishment. Saturday’s meeting was well attended, with representatives from nearly all regions. Bailli Délégué National George Brown, Jr., whose term ends June 30, opened the meeting by saying that he “saved the best for last.” He was delighted to return to the place of his own induction six years ago. The time passed swiftly as he regaled us with tales of his time as leader of the Chaîne. Following the meeting, many of us boarded a bus for lunch and a guided tour of the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. The delicious threecourse meal included a choice of bouillabaisse or microgreens with ricotta salata for starters; polenta Milanese, chicken salad, or potato- cauliflower quiche for the entrée; and bread pudding or ice cream with jalapeño honey and crystallized ginger for dessert. After honoring the chef with a Chaîne plaque, we split into two groups for the tour. The knowledgeable, engaging docents led us through the glorious atrium and labyrinth of rooms filled with magnificent art collections. Since Mrs. Gardner’s will stipulated that all pieces be preserved and maintained in their original locations within the building, each room is exactly as she had arranged it when she was alive. (In 1990, the largest private-property theft in history SUMMER 2014
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1 Bailli Provincial John Vyhnanek, Chambellan Provincial Frank Tate, Jr. and Bailli Délégué National George Brown, Jr. 2 Andrée Robert, Anne Robert and Boston Bailli Marshall Berenson.
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PHOTOS BY RICHARD DEAGAZIO
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3 Chargée de Presse Provinciale Karen Robert and Boston Vice Chargé de Presse Richard DeAgazio. 4 Albany Bailli William Harris, Dame Holly Katz, Chambellan Provincial Gabor Huszar, Bailli Délégué National George Brown, Jr., Buffalo Vice Chargée de Presse Helen Cappuccino and New York Officier Andy Cappuccino.
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5 Chambellan Provincial Frank Tate, Jr., Albany Officier Joan Tate, Colonial New England Vice Echanson Ron Dorris and Colonial New England Vice Chargée de Presse Carole Dorris.
occurred at the museum. Thirteen pieces of art, valued at $500 million and including works by Rembrandt, Manet, Vermeer, and Degas, were stolen. Several empty frames hang in the galleries as reminders of the theft. None of the artwork has yet been recovered.) That evening, we boarded a trolley for a gala at the Downtown Harvard Club, whose top floor offers stunning views of the city and harbor. White-gloved staff proffered glasses of Bailly-Lapierre Vive-la-Joie Crémant de Bourgogne Vintage Brut 2007 and Burgans Albariño 2011. Hors d’oeuvres of tuna tartare, lamb lollipops, and Brie en croûte appeased our appetites as we gathered in the reception room for the induction ceremony. After welcoming the evening’s inductees, Bailli Provincial John Vyhnanek introduced honored guests Anne and Andrée Robert, wife and daughter, respectively, of the late Lucien Robert—recipient of the “Richard A. Berenson Boston Legends of Food and Wine” award. From 1971 to 2004, Maison Robert was the epitome of outstanding service and fine dining, symbolizing everything the Chaîne strives to achieve at each event. His passing in February 2014 was a tremendous loss to the culinary world, but his spirit lives on in the memories of those lucky enough to have dined at SUMMER 2014
his establishments. But wait! There were two more honors to bestow. Bailli Délégué Brown awarded an officier pin to Maître Rôtisseur Traiteur Kathy LaShay Berenson and the Gold Star of Excellence to a very surprised Chambellan Provincial Frank Tate, Jr. for his many years of service to the Chaîne. Well deserved, both! Executive Chef Damian Zedower and his team prepared a special feast for our group. To start, Maine lobster bisque paired well with an Emilio Lustau Dry Oloroso Don Nuno. Georges Bank diver scallop with wild ramps and foraged mushrooms preceded rabbit confit and Puy lentil cassoulet. Daron Calvados Fine Pays d’Auge was a refreshing interlude before the live auction, during which Bailli Délégué Brown, the consummate master of ceremonies and auctioneer, encouraged bidders to “bid big.” Thousands
were raised to benefit Boston University culinary scholarships. The pièce de résistance was then served— Northeast Family Farms beef tenderloin, married with Château Deyrem Valentin Margaux 2011. Absolutely delicious! Époisses with honeycomb, served with Trimbach Gewürztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre Grand Cru 2007, paved the way for the dessert of île flottante with cherry cream, toasted pistachio, and salted caramel sauce. The evening closed with kudos and thanks to the chef, waitstaff, and management for the exceptional job they did in orchestrating the weekend’s festivities. Sunday’s meeting and luncheon was the final farewell as we bid au revoir to those who honorably served us in office. We look forward to welcoming our new officers at next year’s assemblage! GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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MIDWEST REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE AND YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
Des Moines Delivers 1
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By Jeff Gullion, Des Moines Vice Chargé de Presse 1 Des Moines Bailli Jim Cutter, DMACC President Robert Denson and Bailli Provincial John Burson. 2 Chaîne officers. 3 Joyce Chapman and Dame Linda Berg. 4 Chargé de Presse Provincial J.T. Mayer.
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The Des Moines Bailliage proudly hosted the Midwest Regional Assemblage and Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition from April 11-12. Joining local members were confrères from the Boston, Chicago, Cincinnati, Indianapolis, Kansas City, Lake Shore, Pittsburgh, St. Louis, Springfield, and Toledo bailliages. Dame de la Chaîne Nancy Landess coordinated a wonderful itinerary of events, tours, and dinners for attendees. The festivities began with a tour of the test kitchens at the Meredith Corporation headquarters. Founded in 1902, Meredith publishes such magazines as Better Homes and Gardens and Family Circle. Recipes appearing in the magazines are developed in Meredith’s kitchens using common appliances and brands similar to those found in many American homes. That evening, we dined at Terrace Hill, the original governor’s residence and a current National Historic Landmark. We learned that each of the front doors weighs over two hundred pounds, yet swings easily. The beautiful stenciling throughout the home was done by hand and took six thousand hours to complete. Served buffet style, dinner featured an array of Iowa products, including La Quercia prosciutto, Vande Rose bacon, and La Mie breads. The eight Iowa Culinary Institute (ICI) students selected for the 2014 Marge Anderson French Culinary Scholarship assisted with the preparation and service. ICI is located on the campus of the Des Moines Area Community College (DMACC). The highlight of the evening was when Chargé de Presse Provincial J.T. Mayer sat down at the 1869 Steinway grand piano and played for the assembly. Saturday morning began with a working breakfast at the Des Moines Embassy Club. Bailli Provincial John Burson recapped regional and national Chaîne news. Also discussed were the Midwest Regional Young Sommeliers Competition and the Corps des Ambassadors Program. A roundtable discussion focused on each bailli’s top five events of the past year. At Proof restaurant, Co-Owner/Executive Chef Sean Wilson, a James Beard “Best Chef” semi-finalist, designed a Mediterranean/North African-influenced lunch that showcased local products. Feta-tabbouleh salad and falafel on flat bread were among the highlights. Chocolate chip cookies were a takeaway treat to enjoy on our subsequent tour of the Pappajohn Sculpture Park. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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A docent led us through the four-acre park, with its twentyeight works of art. We experienced the newest piece, Panoramic Awareness Pavilion, by artist Olafur Eliasson, and visited the Nomade sculpture, which has become a city landmark. In the meantime, five young chefs were hard at work in the ICI kitchens competing for the honor of representing our region in the national contest. The competitors were Marco Behana (Chicago), Katelyn Banks (Cincinnati), Joshua Charles (St. Louis), Andrew Iacono (Lake Shore), and Rôtisseur John Patrick Muko II (Des Moines). At that evening’s awards dinner, Des Moines Bailli Jim Cutter named ICI student Gina Luu as the recipient of our chapter’s local chef’s scholarship. He also announced the establishment of a Chaîne kitchen at ICI, a project set to be completed in 2015. It was then time for the results of the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Art Inzinga awarded the four semi-finalists bronze medals and bestowed a silver medal upon winner Marco Behana. Bailli Provincial Burson thanked Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Inzinga for his twelve years of work on the competition. Explaining that he will return to his work coaching up-andcoming chefs, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Inzinga remarked, “Somebody has to learn how to prepare foie gras for us!” Bailli Provincial Burson then presented a check for $5,000 for culinary scholarships to DMACC President Robert Denson on behalf of the Chaîne Foundation. Dame de la Chaîne Maura Nelson gave a presentation about the French Chef Exchange program she directs involving the ICI and the Association des Cuisiniers de la Loire. Each year two French chefs travel to Des Moines to demonstrate classical French techniques to ICI students. Each spring, specially selected ICI students, accompanied by program staff, embark on a culinary tour of France that includes training in kitchens of world-class restaurants. The ceremony ended with a tribute to departing Bailli Provincial Burson, who received a Proclamation of Appreciation on behalf of the entire region. We wish him the best and look forward to seeing him at the table. We also look forward to working with new Bailli Provincial Renee Wilmeth. The subsequent dinner was prepared by Des Moines Golf and Country Club Executive Chef/Chef Rôtisseur Terry Boston. Among the gastronomic highlights were cauliflower bisque, Florida grouper, braised short ribs, and peach tiramisu. The delicious wines served included Ramey Hyde Vineyard Carneros-Napa Chardonnay 2010, Château Ste. Michelle Horse Heaven Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2012, and Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2012. Truffles from local chocolatier Chocolate Storybook were presented to all. Our wonderful evening wound to a close, with bright sunshine giving way to much-needed spring rain. We said goodbye to old and new friends before heading home. We look forward to next year’s assemblage hosted by the Kansas City Chapter. Cheers!
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7 5 Terrace Hill. 6 Contestants Joshua Charles, Des Moines Rôtisseur John Patrick Muko II, Katelyn Banks, Andrew Iacono and winner Marco Behana. 7 Stained-glass window. 8 Nomade at Pappajohn Sculpture Park.
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FAR WEST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
Culinary Competition in Costa Mesa 1
1 Lazy Dog Café Executive Chef/ South Coast Maître Rôtisseur Gabriel Caliendo and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Mark Sullivan.
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2 OCC Chief Instructor Bill Barber and Bailli Provincial Bryan Stirrat. 3 Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition winner Mike Reidy. 4 Executive Chef/ San Diego Chef Rôtisseur Michael Ames, Lady M’s Gourmet Cooking Chef Leslie Merle, St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort Executive Chef/Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Frederic Castan and Executive Chef/Hospitality Consultant Joshua Korn.
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By Bryan Stirrat, Far West Bailli Provincial The Far West Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition was held at the Orange Coast College’s Culinary School in Costa Mesa, California, on March 15. Bailli Provincial Bryan Stirrat and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Mark Sullivan, assisted by a team of seven judges, organized and oversaw the competition. As kitchen judge, Lazy Dog Café Executive Chef/South Coast Maître Rôtisseur Gabriel Caliendo observed the young chefs’ kitchen techniques, organizational skills, product utilization, professionalism, sanitation, and timing. In addition to the kitchen judge, there were six tasting judges—four professionals and two non-professionals. The four professional judges were Conseiller Gastronomique Provincial Frederic Castan, executive chef at the St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort; Lady M’s Gourmet Cooking Chef Leslie Merle; Executive Chef/San Diego Chef Rôtisseur Michael Ames; and Executive Chef/Hospitality Consultant Joshua Korn. The non-professional judges were Laguna Bailli Phil Kress and Bailli Provincial Stirrat. The kitchen manager was Bill Barber, chief instructor at the OCC Culinary School. Observing the competition was Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National Heinz Hofmann. SUMMER 2014
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Six young chefs competed to determine who would represent the Far West Region at the national competition in Miami in May. The six competitors were Mike Reidy, Heather Baugh, Dina Ousa, Stevie Clark, Rafael Angeles, and Sean Canosa. Each contestant was assigned an assistant from the culinary school to serve as a runner to fetch items and provide general help. The competition began at 7:00 a.m. sharp. The young chefs were given mystery baskets comprised of white asparagus, Lacinato kale, shiitake mushrooms, artichoke, rack of lamb, lamb sweetbreads, striped bass, and Satsuma tangerines. After opening the mystery baskets, the contestants had thirty minutes to compose a three-course menu for four people. They then had three hours to prepare and thirty minutes to present their creations to the judges. Each of the three courses prepared by each competitor was judged independently on taste, presentation, and originality. The competition was fierce, but after tabulating all of the scores, Mike Reidy was declared the winner and awarded a silver medal. Each of the other five young chefs received a bronze medal. Following the competition, Bailli Provincial Stirrat presented a check for $5,000 to the OCC Culinary School for hosting the event. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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SOUTHEAST REGIONAL YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
The Jewel of the Southeast (Left) Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Reimund Pitz, winner Rôtisseur Vanessa Vazquez and Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer. (Below) Talk of the Town Restaurants Corporate Chef/Orlando Vice Conseiller Culinaire Dan Drayer and Johnson & Wales University Director of Culinary Operations Chris Wagner.
By Nancy Radlauer, Miami Bailli On February 21, four enthusiastic young chefs competed in the Southeast Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition at the Culinary Arts and Design School at the Art Institute of Tampa. The contest was held in conjunction with the Caribbean/Atlantic Islands Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. The Southeast contestants were Ruben Santa-Robles (Miami), Rôtisseur Vanessa Vazquez (Orlando), Jeffrey Mayer (Puerto Rico), and Matthew Condron (Claremont). Chef Rôtisseur Dwayne Sinclair of Nassau was the sole contestant in his region’s competition. The judges were Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Reimund Pitz; Orlando Vice Conseiller Culinaire Dan Drayer, corporate chef of Talk of the Town Restaurants; and Orlando Chef Rôtisseur Alejandro Ocanto, a banquet chef at Walt Disney World. Rôtisseur Vazquez produced the winning menu, which opened with pan-seared scallops with citrus vinaigrette-infused greens, caramelized onion, and lemon-herb prawn. Her entrée was roasted chicken with wild mushroom couscous. For dessert, she presented luscious vanilla panna cotta over drunken berries. It was Rôtisseur Vazquez’s first foray into the world of culinary competitions. “It was a great opportunity and an eye-opening one,” SUMMER 2014
she observed, adding, “I know I have a lot more to learn.” A native of Puerto Rico, she currently attends Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Orlando. Regarding her future, she said, “I want to open my own restaurant one day featuring international cuisine.” Confrères and contestants alike looked forward to that evening’s awards ceremony. The event was hosted by Tampa Sun Coast Bailli Ruth Adrian at the Center Club in Tampa. Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer inducted new members before introducing Chef Pitz, who shared highlights of the competition, announced the winner, and bestowed the awards. A passionate supporter of the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition, Chef Pitz told the group, “We can…have a very strong contender for the national finals each year. I am asking everyone to put forth as many candidates as possible and make a commitment for next year. I will personally put together a team of professional chefs that will coach and guide the winner to be an extremely strong candidate for the national finals.” An elated Rôtisseur Vazquez returned to school wearing her medal. “It was an amazing experience, thanks to the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs,” she told fellow classmates. We, in turn, are proud to have her represent the Southeast Region in the national competition in May. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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NORTHEAST YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
Northeast Young Chef Hits a Home Run! By John J. Vyhnanek, Northeast Bailli Provincial On March 29, the sun wasn’t up at 6:30 a.m., but the young chefs were, and they were preparing for a day of cooking! Cobleskill is near Cooperstown, New York, where the Baseball Hall of Fame is located. For the past six years, Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Martin Frei has sought out top culinary facilities in which to hold the Northeast Regional Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition. Once again, he made a great choice in the State University of New York Cobleskill’s Culinary Arts Program. It was the first time our young chefs were utilizing ingredients raised, grown, and harvested on campus; SUNY Cobleskill prides itself on being a top agricultural school. After receiving their mystery baskets, the young chefs had thirty minutes to compose their menus. They then had three hours to prepare an appetizer, entrée, and dessert for the judges. Two kitchen judges, Albany Chef Rôtisseur A.J. Jayapal, food and beverage director for the Mallozzi Group, and Rhode Island Chef Rôtisseur T.J. Delle Donne, associate instructor at Johnson & Wales University, assessed them on technique, cleanliness, and professionalism. The pace in the kitchen was nothing short of grueling! Also grueling was the task of the tasting judges, who included Boston Commandeur/ Vice Chancelier-Argentier Dean Lynch; SUNY Cobleskill Chef/Instructor Keith Buerker; Chef Rôtisseur Jayapal; Albany Vice Conseiller Culinaire Yono Purnomo, Albany Bailli William Harris, Mid-Hudson at the CIA Bailli Frank Ehrlich; SUNY Cobleskill Acting President Debra Thatcher; and artist James Thatcher. They carefully evaluated each of the young chefs’ dishes on presentation, creativity, and quality. Before the winner was announced, the judges gave useful feedback to the contestants as well as advice for future competitions. It was inspiring to see the judges share their extensive knowledge with the competitors. We assembled in a reception room to SUMMER 2014
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1 Chaîne confrères. 2 Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition winner Geoffrey Lanez. 3 Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Martin Frei. 2
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enjoy hors d’oeuvres and toast the winner.
Provincial Frei and Bailli Provincial John
Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Frei opened by
Vyhnanek presented a check for $5,000 to
stating that all of the contestants were winners
Acting President Thatcher and Agriculture and
for having participated in such a rigorous con-
Food Management Department Chair JoAnne
test. He then announced that Geoffrey Lanez, a
Cloughly. It was a win for the school, a win for
student and part-time employee at Johnson &
the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition, and
Wales, had earned first place.
a win for the Chaîne.
At the end of the day, Conseiller Culinaire
We all hit a home run at SUNY Cobleskill! GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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PACIFIC NORTHWEST YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
Cooking Contest in California 2
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1 Winner Krista Nakamura and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Herve Le Biavant, CEC, CCE, CM. 2 Chambellan Provincial/ Monterey Peninsula Bailli Glenn Hammer and San Francisco Chef Rôtisseur Jay Marshall, CEC, AAC.
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3 Winner Krista Nakamura.
By Mark Burger, Monterey Peninsula Vice Chargé de Presse
tery baskets, which contained Thai snapper, beef cheeks, fennel, sweet limes, kale, mushrooms, D’Anjou pears, and Yukon Gold potatoes.
On the crisp morning of February 15, six young chefs assembled at the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of California in San Francisco to compete in the first round of a three-tier contest culminating in the International Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition in South Africa in September. The competition organizers were Bailli Provincial Michael Martello and Conseiller Culinaire Provincial Herve Le Biavant, CEC, CCE, CM. The field consisted of some of the region’s best and brightest young chefs. With the exception of Oleg Vetkov, of Maple Falls, Washington, all hailed from California: Viridiana Santana (Hayward); Julian Abejar (Fremont); Phoebe Sanders (Oakland); Austin Alexander (Wildomar); and Krista Nakamura (San Francisco). The contestants were allowed to bring their own cooking tools. Specialty equipment was provided, and culinary students assisted the competitors. Kitchen judges Chef Paul Lee, CEC, and Chef/Instructor Jeremy MacVeigh evaluated the contestants on technique, cleanliness, preparation, and product utilization. While these scores are important, originality, timing, and skill are given even greater weight in determining the final scores. Several area sponsors, including Tanimura and Antle, Bassian Farms, and Robbie’s Ocean Fresh Seafood, contributed items to the mysSUMMER 2014
The chefs were on a strict schedule to produce their appetizer, entrée, and dessert. As their courses came out in flights of four plates, one was taken to the display table while the other three went to the judges’ room. The tasting judges were Chef Reilly Meehan, a former Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition winner; San Francisco Vice Echanson Salvatore Campagna, CEC, HAAC; San Francisco Chef Rôtisseur Jay Marshall, CEC, AAC; San Francisco Vice Conseiller Culinaire Gary Prell, CEC, CCE, AAC; Chef Karl Peters, HMC; and Chambellan Provincial/ Monterey Peninsula Bailli Glenn Hammer. The competition was so close that the scores were tabulated three times before the winner was announced. After much anticipation, we learned that Krista Nakamura edged out Oleg Vetkov in the battle for first place. Chef Nakamura received a $5,000 scholarship as well as the chance to compete in the national competition in May. Through events such as this one, the Chaîne demonstrates its ongoing commitment to helping young chefs realize their dreams. While some view fine dining as an increasingly lost art in modern society, with the help of organizations like the Chaîne, it may indeed continue to flourish. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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Books You May Have Missed THE MUSHROOM HUNTERS: ON THE TRAIL OF AN UNDERGROUND AMERICA By Langdon Cook Ballantine Books $26.00 Search the forest floors of the Pacific Northwest with Cook as he uncovers and tantalizes us with the tastes of his favorite chanterelles, matsutakes, and morels. Joined by a crusty forager, a capitalist, and an award-winning chef, Cook takes us to some of the legal, and many of the notso-legal, mushroom patches dotting the coastal area. THE WILD VINE: A FORGOTTEN GRAPE AND THE UNTOLD STORY OF AMERICAN WINE By Todd Kliman Broadway Paperbacks $15.00 Did you know that the Jamestown colonists were forced to grow grapes to make wine for the king? This, and other intriguing tales, set the stage for the discovery of the first Native American grape. We follow the Norton’s journey from Virginia to Missouri, where it flourishes and then disappears before enterprising believers try to revive it once again.
MASTERING THE ART OF SOVIET COOKING: A MEMOIR OF FOOD AND LONGING By Anya Von Bremzen Crown Publishers $26.00 Acclaimed food writer Von Bremzen counts several James Beard awards among her accolades. Born in the USSR, she provides a fascinating window into the former Soviet Union, using food as a guide through time. Though nonfiction, her well-paced story grips readers as well as any good novel. IN THE CHARCUTERIE By Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller Crown Publishers $40.00 Charcuterie is currently quite popular in the United States—a fact that no one knows better than the married co-owners of Fatted Calf Charcuterie. Boetticher and Miller’s beautifully illustrated book offers step-by-step instructions for preparing pâtés, confits, sausages, and fresh meats. Even better, they assure readers that the 125 recipes are easier to prepare than one would think.
Reviews by Kathy Shay, Austin Vice Chargée de Presse, and Dennis Shay, Austin Vice Conseiller Gastronomique
Chef’s Table Dinner aboard the Royal Princess By Lee Kotwicki Sarasota Bailli Tom Coundit and Lee Kotwicki cruised on the Princess Cruise Line’s newest ship, the Royal Princess, from January 5-12. One highlight of the trip was an exclusive “Chef’s Table” dinner for twelve guests. Executive Chef Shaun Candon and Maître d’Hôtel Fabio Marcotti began the evening by giving us a tour of the galley. In the main dining room, we were seated at a hand-made Italian table inlaid with mother-of-pearl. A SUMMER 2014
curtain of lighted glass beads cascaded down, gently surrounding us. The curtain resembled flowing water and afforded our group some privacy. Dinner opened with crispy sweetbreads, paired with a Pouilly-Fumé Sauvignon Blanc. The intermezzo of frozen margarita sorbet was decorated with red lace candy. The entrée was a lobster tail and pancetta-wrapped lamb duo—a delectable combination. A smooth Simi Landslide Cabernet Sauvignon was a great complement to the main course.
While the cheese course left us more than satisfied, none of us could pass up dessert. A beautifully presented tower of calvados-infused white chocolate mousse with apple caviar and blueberry sorbet was enhanced by Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc—the perfect dessert wine. To top off the evening, we were all presented with an autographed cookbook and souvenir menu. The ladies each received a red rose. It was definitely a dinner we will never forget!
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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Texas Confrères Tour France by Riverboat
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By Jim Ray, Southwest Chargé de Presse Provincial
(Top) Château de Versailles. 1 San Antonio Bailli Vivian Ray and Paris Bailli André Pandiris.
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In November 2013, members of the San Antonio and Houston bailliages enjoyed a nine-day riverboat excursion up the Seine River, visiting historical sites along the way. Built into their itinerary were two days of sightseeing in Paris as well as a special dinner hosted by the Paris Bailliage as part of the Chaîne’s Corps des Ambassadors Program. The Paris Bailliage put on a delightful dinner for our group. At the reception, San Antonio Bailli Vivian Ray spoke to the assembly about the U.S. Chaîne’s Ambassador Program, which provides U.S. confrères with the opportunity to meet members from other countries. Tokens of friendship, including bailliage pins, are often exchanged. At this celebratory dinner, the conviviality and camaraderie lasted well into the wee hours, as attendees from both countries were reluctant to bid farewell to their newfound friends. Before embarking on the cruise, our group had the luxury of spending two days in Paris. One highlight was visiting the Eiffel Tower, where we lunched at the Jules Verne restaurant on the second floor. The consensus was that this particular meal had to be the most enjoyable, flavorful, well-presented meal—with the greatest view—ever eaten! We also visited the Château de Versailles, the palace in which Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette resided. The late 1700s saw much discontent among the French middle and lower classes. In 1789, the French Revolution began. The Bastille was stormed, the castle besieged, and the king arrested and imprisoned. Louis XVI is the only French king ever to be executed, his death bringing an end to more than a thousand years of continuous French monarchy. On the UNESCO World Heritage List for several decades, the Château de Versailles is considered one of the most beautiful achievements of eighteenth-century French art. On the third day, we boarded the floating luxury hotel MS AmaLegro and headed up the Seine. The ship was our home for the next nine days. On board with us was wine host JeanGASTRONOME EXTRA!
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Marc Espinasse, who gave informative lectures about wine as well as directing various tastings—with French wines, of course! At night, we cruised the river. Each evening, we dined and danced, and each day was spent touring exciting landmarks. One such site was the Château de Bizy in Vernon, built by France’s last king, and the Albufera family—descendants of Napoleon—who still live there today. In Honfleur, we visited Le Palais Bénédictine, with its distillery where the famous liqueur is produced and collections of religious objects and modern artwork. We saw the Normandy beaches, where the largest amphibious invasion in world history took place in June 1944. We walked the beaches where the fighting occurred and examined firsthand the German fortifications that are still there. In Rouen, Normandy’s capital, nineteen-year-old Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. She was later found innocent of her crimes and was martyred. She was canonized in 1920, more than four centuries after her death. The location where she was executed has been restructured and is now a historic landmark and museum. Founded on a bend along the Seine, Les Andelys and its Château Gaillard has developed into one of the most beautiful locales in France. King Richard I, aka Richard the Lionheart, built what was believed to be an impenetrable castle and fortress. The Musée D’Orsay, on the left bank of the Seine, was the last stop on our cruise. The museum houses the largest collection of impressionist and post-impressionist masterpieces in the world, with many of the paintings worth millions. The most well known is the Mona Lisa, valued at $772 million. In 1911, this painting was stolen and was missing for more than two years before it was returned unharmed. What a spectacular way to end our international Chaîne riverboat adventure! Everyone returned home safely with plenty of wonderful stories to tell. Vive la Chaîne! SUMMER 2014
2 Members of the Paris, San Antonio, and Houston bailliages. 3 Dame Mia Rosen, San Antonio Vice Chargé de Missions Niklas Rosen, SW Chargé de Presse Provincial Jim Ray and San Antonio Bailli Vivian Ray. 4 Bénédictine liqueur.
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BEAUMONT
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Picnicking, Chaîne Style By Kate Hambright, Vice Chargée de Presse On September 15, Beaumont Bailliage members gathered at the Sunset Grove Country Club in Orange, Texas, for an alfresco meal. In 1923, famed Scottish architect Donald Ross was commissioned by oil and timber baron W. H. Lutcher Stark to build the club’s golf course. We admired the lush grounds from the veranda, where we enjoyed an array of tasty hors d’oeuvres, matched with MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir 2011. In the main dining room, we were introduced to our host, Chef Jon Hersey. A native of Vermont, Chef Hersey was taught by some of the finest chefs in New England and owned his own restaurant in Maine before moving to Texas to manage Sunset Grove. Dinner opened with perfectly cooked lollipop lamb chops with sun-dried tomato orzo, paired with Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2011. Arriving next was poached Maine lobster with saffron risotto—the culinary highlight of the evening. The room was soon filled with the sounds of cracking shells as diners sought to release the succulent meat. What a treat it was to enjoy lobster prepared by a Maine chef in southeast Texas! A crisp Bridlewood Chardonnay 2011 complemented this course. The meal closed with Cabernet-poached pears with spiced mascarpone. La Marca Prosecco was the perfect finishing touch to this delightful repast. We greeted Chef Hersey and his team with a round of appreciative applause, after which Bailli Pat Daleo thanked them for the fantastic dining experience.
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1 Vice Chargée de Presse Kate Hambright and Chevalier David Kosboth. 2 Chef Jonathan Hersey and Bailli Pat Daleo.
CINCINNATI
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Retro Style with a Modern Twist By Graig Smith, Vice Chargé de Presse On September 22, Cincinnati Bailliage members met for their autumn dinner at Jag’s Steak & Seafood restaurant in West Chester, Ohio. The venue’s name stems from Owner John Allgaier’s love of Jaguar cars; yet, the words “sleek and classy” may also be used to describe his elegant establishment, where, in his own words, “Chicago turf meets Boston surf.” Dinner opened with Caesar salad, served with Inama Soave Classico Vigneti di Foscarino 2011. This wine balanced well with the salad’s garlic and cheese accents. South African lobster tail with foie gras was then matched with MacPhail Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009, whose earthiness and dark cherry and plum flavors acted synergistically with the foie gras to produce a heavenly combination. The next two courses paired pork and steak with Cabernet Sauvignon. Pork chop with peppercornSUMMER 2014
brandy demi-glace was partnered with Ehlers Estate 1886 Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, while prime certified Angus beef Delmonico rib-eye was married with Clos du Val Reserve Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998. For dessert, Executive Chef Michelle Brown presented 1 Bailli Hon. Irwin Weinberg and Chevalier Charles Hong. raspberry-chocolate cheesecake 2 Mary Kay Calonge, Chevalier Bernie Calonge, Jeane with espresso crème anglaise to Elliott, Bailli George Elliott, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Susan Verschoor and Dame Barbara Lancor. the delight of all. At evening’s end, Bailli 2 George Elliott commended Chef Brown and her team for orchestrating the delicious meal. He also extended kudos to Vice Echanson Michael Monnin for his superb wine selections. We left with great praise for a collaboration that was unsurpassed in recent memory. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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DELAWARE VALLEY
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Playful Comfort By Ellen Rosenberg, Vice Chargée de Presse
On October 13, Delaware Valley Bailliage members gathered at the Mildred restaurant, co-owned by Michael Santoro and Michael Dorris, for an evening of “Playful Comfort.” Executive Chef Santoro was working at the world-famous Fat Duck restaurant in London when he met General Manager Dorris, who was employed at the Waterside Inn. The two friends dreamed of owning their own restaurant, which led to the establishment of this warm, inviting pub in Philadelphia. One food critic captured our experience in the following comment: “You know from the moment a crusty loaf of house-baked chestnut bread is delivered that this kitchen is serious about scratch cooking with comforting soul and a sense of adventure.” At the reception, smoked mackerel rillettes and pork pâté were served with champagne and—in keeping with the pub atmosphere—a very special beer. Heady Topper, available only in Vermont and rated the world’s best beer by many sources, was personally delivered by Vice Chancelier-Argentier Matt Karstetter. Dinner opened with warm quince salad, followed by guinea fowl with foie gras torchon, complemented by MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Central Coast 2011. Bouillabaisse, matched with Château Turcaud Entre-Deux-Mers Blanc 2011, preceded veal persillade, married with Château la Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape
2 1 Dame Kathleen Boyle, Chevalier Donald Robbins, Dame Nicole Thorne and Kelly D’Antoni. 2 Maître de Table Restaurateur David Gottlieb and CoOwner/Executive Chef Michael Santoro.
2007. Roast pear with pear sorbet, enhanced by Joseph Phelps Eisrebe 2011, rounded out the repast. Accolades to Chef Santoro, General Manager Dorris, and their team concluded this night of delicious cuisine and convivial company—a perfect pub evening.
DES MOINES
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Rôtisseurs Meet Rotisserie By Jeff Gullion, Vice Chargé de Presse On October 13, Des Moines Bailliage members had a unique opportunity to reconnect with the Chaîne’s heritage at Bailli Honoraire Michael LaValle’s new branch of the Embassy Club, housed in a building with an operational rotisserie. In keeping with the event’s theme, roast goose was the featured dish, which Chef Rôtisseur Michael Bailey prepared using the historic device. Three plump geese were trussed and placed into the rotisserie. The drippings were used to season the forest mushrooms that were then showcased in the appetizer. After we took a tour of the waterfront property, Bailli Honoraire Doug Crain shared a photo album documenting many of SUMMER 2014
our bailliage’s original members and events. We reminisced about our shared Chaîne history while sipping Prosecco and nibbling hearth-fired flat bread and blini with salmon caviar. The aromas and flavors of the rotisserie were integral to many of the preparations. Smoke-cured sablefish with lobster-miso dashi continued the smoky trend in the fish course. In a visually impressive display, tomato granità also emerged from the “smoke.” Yet, the dish we were all awaiting was “Goose 1248,” served with tamarindlaced squash and lingonberries. The room fell silent as diners savored the rich, flavorful entrée. It was a happy, sated group that sat back and enjoyed hazelnut dacquoise for dessert. Having replaced the original
2 1 Chef Rôtisseur Michael Bailey. 2 Bailli Hon. Michael LaValle.
v ersion, the modern rotisserie had proven its ability to continue the tradition, and attendees were pleased to have experienced firsthand the culinary origins of the Chaîne. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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INDIANAPOLIS
Le Picnic en Plein Aire By Renee Wilmeth, Midwest Chambellan Provincial/Bailli The Indianapolis Bailliage celebrated the last warm night of summer on September 28 with a French picnic and a private screening of Somm, under the stars at White River State Park. Upon arrival, attendees were greeted with glasses of sparking rosé and stunning views of downtown Indianapolis from the East River Pavilion along the riverbank. Libertine Chef Erin Till presented a four-course feast served from metal tiffins, with wines paired to complement the cuisine.
At the reception, delicious hors d’oeuvres were served with Camille Braun Crémant d’Alsace N.V. The unpacking of our suppers revealed a wonderful selection of menu items arranged neatly in the tiffins. To start, heirloom potato salad with yogurt, charred celery, tarragon, and Dijon mustard was matched with Von Schleinitz Apollo Riesling Spätlese 2008. Arriving next was leek and heirloom tomato soup with fried sorrel leaf, accompanied by Clos Cibonne Tibouren 2009. For the entrée, delicious Gunthorp Farms duck leg with Pinot Noir, maitakes, heirloom carrots, and pearl
onions was escorted by Domaine Jacques Girardin Santenay Premier Cru Clos Rousseau Burgundy 2010. Dessert was a duet of chocolate and apricot popsicles. As the sun set, diners moved to the lower pavilion with their folding chairs and picnic blankets. Wine materialized, as did bags of truffle popcorn for the screening of Somm, a documentary about four sommeliers seeking top-level certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers. As they sipped and swirled, so did Indianapolis confrères, under the stars, en plein aire.
KANSAS CITY
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Black Tie at the Carriage Club By Susann Riffe, Vice Chargée de Presse The Carriage Club, near the famed Country Club Plaza, was the venue for the Kansas City Bailliage’s induction dinner of November 19. The club has been long known for its ice rink, which serves both the figure-skating and hockey communities as well as recreational skaters. The first skating show, the “Carriage Club Ice Fantasy,” was held in 1962 and featured special guest star Vonne Combs. A new tradition has begun with the arrival of Executive Chef Brad Trewhitt, whose menu betrayed impeccable credentials that shone as
1 Vice Chargée de Presse Susann Riffe (standing) and Kathy Pelz. 2 Vice Chancelier-Argentier Tom Black and Echanson Provincial/Bailli Mike Foster.
brightly as the ice in the rink. 2
Following the champagne reception, Echanson Provincial/Bailli Mike Foster elevated four members and presented the Bronze Star of Excellence to Vice Chancelier-Argentier Tom Black for his extensive contributions to our bailliage. Dinner opened with an amuse-bouche of smoked salmon and caviar, accompanied by Ruffino Prosecco. Arriving next was butternut squash bisque with malted barley reduction, paired with Pierre Sparr Alsace One 2007. Lemon mascarpone sorbet paved the way for an amazing preparation of roasted prime beef entrecôte with sweet onion soubise, married with Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2011. With the dessert of goat’s milk panna cotta with cherry compote, we sipped Quinta do Noval Ruby Port. All in attendance agreed that this combination of masterful art and dining was a resounding success. We happily rose to give Chef Trewhitt and his staff Chaîne pins and a well-deserved ovation. SUMMER 2014
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LACS ET DES BOIS
1 Vice ChancelierArgentier Les Jones and Vice Echanson Terry Mathis.
Swashbuckling Chefs Duel Bailli Cheryl Kenny threw down the gauntlet and the duel began! Yet, instead of Zorro or Captain Jack Sparrow, Chef Rôtisseur Brian McNamara, executive chef at Jasper’s, battled Hubbell & Hudson Executive Chef Austin Simmons on October 13, while the noble members of the Lacs et des Bois Bailliage reaped the gastronomic rewards. At the “En Guard,” Chef Simmons first revealed his swordsmanship with the delivery of tuna cones, matched with Gauthier Riesling Santa Lucia Highlands 2011. “The Parry” offered tempura squash blossom with edible flowers. Chef Simmons intended to distract his opponent with this dish’s beauty. Diners were equally disarmed by the peach flavors of Barricos del Platas Mendoza
2 Vice Chargée de Presse Beverly Mentzer, Executive Chef Austin Simmons, Executive Pastry Chef Katrina Autem, Executive Chef/ Chef Rôtisseur Brian McNamara and Bailli Cheryl Kenny.
Torrontés 2011. Chef McNamara spiced up “The Engagement” with smoked pheasant soup with chipotle-lime crème fraîche, paired with Starry Night Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2012. Chef 2 Simmons set about “Gaining the Measure” with skate wing with potato purée, enhanced by Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé 2012. He then delivered a sharp “Lunge” to the braised short rib, while inky Cosentino The Franc 2011 pooled in our glasses. For the “Coup de Grace,” Chef McNamara offered succulent bacon-wrapped bison filet. The “Final Exchange” was a delectable olive oil cake, escorted by Col de Salici Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry. The contest left us sated, if not
LAS VEGAS
breathless. We shouted “Bravo!” as Chefs McNamara and Simmons, along with Executive Pastry Chef Katrina Autem, received a Chaîne plate for staging this remarkable—and delicious—culinary duel.
PHOTOS BY CASHMAN PHOTO
By Beverly Mentzer Vice Chargée de Presse
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Nobu x 28! By Marilyn LaRocque, Vice Chargée de Presse Nationale On October 9, legendary Owner/Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, surrounded by twentyeight of his masterful minions, orchestrated a dinner for the Las Vegas Bailliage at Nobu Restaurant and Lounge at Caesars Palace. His chefs came from the other two Las Vegas Nobu restaurants as well as from outlets in Aspen, Dallas, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, and Waikiki. The omakase (chef’s choice) tasting menu delighted 2
all of the senses. Innovative interpretations of Japanese cuisine drew from both land and sea. Each course was a masterpiece on the plate and a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures on the palate. Umami wasabi gelée with uni, nama yuba, and caviar, accompanied by Hokusetsu Nobu Junmai Daiginjo sake, set the stage for the delights to follow. Peruvian oyster shooter and lobster with yuzu were matched with Copain
1 Bailli Larry Ruvo, Owner/Chef Nobu Matsuhisa and Caesars Palace President Gary Selesner. 2 Laura Hoenemeyer and James Barrett.
Tous Ensemble Viognier 2009—a real treat as the winery is no longer producing this bright, crisp wine. The entrée of Wagyu rump with Douglas fir miso was served with Mastery 2006, a Bordeaux blend that showcased the talents of Master Sommelier Kevin Vogt, wine director at Emeril Lagasse’s three Las Vegas restaurants. In a novel pairing, Henri Giraud Champagne Code Noir Brut N.V. brought SUMMER 2014
out the rich lobster flavors and citrus accents of miso consommé. The sushi course found a perfect mate in Nobu Daiginjo TK 40 sake, while aki tart with pear and pecan and Blandy’s Five-Year-Old Malmsey Madeira N.V. made for a voluptuous finale. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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MICHIGAN
A Night at the Rugby Grille By Cynthia Douglas On August 26, the Michigan Bailliage experienced a superb evening of fine dining at the Rugby Grille in the Townsend Hotel located in Birmingham, Michigan. Executive Chef Drew Sayes combined his knowledge of French cooking techniques with his passion for regional cuisine, and the results were spectacular. Managing Director/Maître Hôtelier Steve Kalczynski ensured that every detail was attended to, and we were delighted to learn that he had recently joined our bailliage. At the reception, servers circulated with
a ppetizers of tempura asparagus and ahi tuna tacos. An amuse-bouche of cauliflower panna cotta with salmon roe was matched with sparkling Prosecco. For the delightful first course, Michigan heirloom tomatoes with burrata and arrope on ciabatta were paired with the velvety Château Ste. Michelle Pinot Gris. Arriving next was Silver Queen corn soup with ricotta and truffles, enhanced by Domaine Terre de Mistral Côtes-de-Provence Sainte-Victoire Cuvée Rosalie Rosé 2012. A crowd favorite was Arctic char with avocado, garlic chips, and Fresno chilies, complemented by Morris Farms Vermentino
2012. By this time, we were eagerly anticipating the entrée of succulent Wagyu beef short rib with brown butter-carrot purée and potatoes Lorette. Domäne Heinrich Zweigelt 2008 brought out the myriad flavors in this savory dish. The decadent dessert of chocolate semifreddo with fleur de sel-chocolate crumble, caramel, and blackberry was escorted by Graham Six Grapes Reserve Port N.V. The port lent itself to the chocolate, caramel, and blackberry flavors without overpowering them. Bravo to Chef Sayes and his team for orchestrating a delicious and memorable evening!
MYRTLE BEACH
Lavish Dine-Around at New York Prime By Tony Hirsh, South Central Chambellan Provincial/Bailli On August 15, Myrtle Beach Bailliage members continued the chapter’s dine-around tradition at New York Prime. Myrtle Beach’s premier steakhouse is owned by CentraArchy Restaurant Management Company and has a similar menu to the New York Primes in Atlanta and Boca Raton. For two-plus decades, New York Prime has maintained its stellar reputation by serving exceptional USDA prime steak and seafood to locals and tourists alike. It offers one of the best wine lists in South Carolina, featuring a wide selection of both Old World and New World vintages. Traditionally at Chaîne events, restaurant chefs serve confrères a specially designed menu not available to regular patrons. However, we made an exception for our dinearound, as New York Prime’s classic preparations were perfect for what is, by definition, a more informal gathering. Dinner opened with an amuse-bouche of thick-cut bacon, which was being tested as a possible regular menu item. Our group gave it a unanimous vote of confidence. Appetizers of shrimp, crabmeat, oysters, and salads Chevalier Stan Fisher and Chambellan Provincial/Bailli Tony Hirsh. were followed by platters of broiled lobster, grilled sea bass, and steaks of all cuts and sizes. Classic side dishes of creamed spinach, asparagus, and potatoes in many incarnations made for a wonderful dinner. Each table selected its own wines to share, and the libations flowed freely throughout the evening. Topping off the meal was the restaurant’s famous Mile High chocolate cake—a perfect end to our delightful summer dine-around. SUMMER 2014
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NEW ORLEANS SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN
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Tableau of Wines By Tony Ritter, Vice Chargé de Presse On September 29, the New Orleans Mondiale held its induction dinner at Tableau restaurant. Located in historic Jackson Square, Tableau is the newest of Dickie Brennan’s restaurants to grace the French Quarter. The event was hosted by Chevalier Harold Bartholomew, Bailli Provincial Rufus Cressend, and Bailli Yvette Cressend. Attendees were requested to bring bottles of their favorite wines to share. The array of outstanding selections made it clear that it would be a memorable Mondiale event. Among the older wines were Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon 1989, Bernard Pradel Cabernet Sauvignon 1992, and Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 1993. We also sampled several Old World wines, including Château Gruaud-Larose 2000,
Château Chauvin St.-Émilion Grand Cru 2000, and Château Soutard Grand Cru Classé 2001. Notable Napa Valley offerings were Reynolds Family Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, and Darioush Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. Chevalier Bartholomew, along with Vice Chancelier-Argentier William Feibleman and Vice Echanson Wayne Forman, presided over the induction ceremony in which twelve new members joined the New Orleans Mondiale. The festivities continued with the inductees taking turns adding new twists to the official Mondiale song. The wine continued to flow even after the meal ended, and the sense of camaraderie deepened. Current confrères toasted the
2 1 Dame Jeanne Duhe, Conseiller Culinaire et des Professionnels National Mary Bartholomew, Donna Ritter, Dame Sandra Margavio and Dame Paula Todaro. 2 Professionnel du Vin Gordon Konrad and Dame Lana Konrad.
newest members as the curtain came down on this wonderful night. As we say here in New Orleans, laissez les bons temps rouler!
NEWPORT BEACH
Cucina Nostalgica Italiana By Sheryle Ulyate, Vice Chargée de Presse Antonio Cagnolo opened his award-winning Antonello Ristorante in Santa Ana, California, in 1979. Hand-painted frescos grace the walls, contributing to the atmosphere of an Italian villa and courtyard. The food is an exceptional blend of Old World and contemporary Italian cuisine. Owner Cagnolo’s co-executive chefs Gino Buonanoce and Salvatore Ferrara call their culinary handiwork “Cucina Nostalgica Italiana.” For the Newport Beach Bailliage’s event there on September 14, Sommelier/Manager Steve Ebol chose an exciting wine to pair with each course. At the reception, delicious passed hors d’oeuvres were served with La Scolca Gavi di Gavi Black Label 2011 and Zonin Prosecco. Dinner opened with thinly sliced octopus with lemon, olive oil, and arugula, matched with Venica Ronco delle Mele Sauvignon Blanc 2012. Arriving next was risotto with black truffles, deliciously complemented by Sette Ponti Nero d’Avola 2010. Branzino in a light fish broth with capers and heirloom tomatoes was beautifully supported by Antinori Castello della Sala Chardonnay 2012. Selected to accompany Australian lamb chops with shallots and grappa were two big, luscious Super Tuscans: Brancaia Il Blu 2008 and Tenuta Orma 2009. Peach tart with almond paste, escorted by Banfi Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Acqui 2011, was a lovely conclusion to the exquisite meal. The two executive chefs, sommelier, and their talented team were deserving of the hearty applause and many compliments they received. Grazie for a terrific Chaîne dinner! SUMMER 2014
Executive Chef Salvatore Ferrara and Executive Chef Gino Buonanoce.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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SARASOTA
Delicious Feast at Table By Lee Kotwicki
SEDONA
PHOTOS BY JOE MONTEDONICO
Our best yet! That was the consensus on November 3 of the thirty Sarasota Bailliage members who enjoyed a delicious dinner prepared by Chefs Rafael Manzano and Pedro Flores, both of the Table Creekside Restaurant, and its sister establishment, Phillippi Creek Village Restaurant and Oyster Bar. General Manager Ila Edwards, Chef Pedro Flores, Bailli Tom Coundit and Chef Rafael Manzano. At the reception, tasty hors d’oeuvres of lobster gazpacho shots, Valencia blood orange pudding, and Wagyu beef tartare were served with Roederer Estate Brut Champagne N.V. Dinner Yet, it wasn’t until dessert that the meal reached its apex. Verona opened with a seafood trio comprised of red snapper, rock shrimp, and Boñato yule log with black peppercorn-marcona almond brittle and calamari spaghetti al soffrito with Red Dragon grapes, complemented by bananas Foster foam was both beautiful to behold and absolutely Roero Arneis Anterisio 2012. delectable. The second course was both very unusual and very good. Lamb Bailli Tom Coundit presented General Manager Ila Edwards and neck barbacoa with yucca risotto was married with a Tensley Syrah. Chefs Manzano and Flores with a commemorative Chaîne plate as Arriving next was a land-and-sea duo consisting of roasted duck breast a token of our appreciation. Our happy, sated group then retired to and octopus tiradito with watermelon ceviche. Neely Hidden Block Pinot the deck to enjoy cigars and cognac, along with views of the moonlit Noir 2008 enhanced our enjoyment of this course. Sarasota Bay.
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October Shivers By David Arnett, Vice Chargé de Presse
cornbread and truffle butter. We cackled with glee upon the arrival of porcini-espresso-crusted
As the end of October nears and the wind whistles eerily through the naked trees, Sedona Bailliage members don frightful garb and descend upon the ghastly Barking Frog Grille in search of succulent comestibles and crimson libations. Upon materializing at the annual Halloween dinner on October 27, fifty-six denizens of the night devoured lamb-shiitake spring rolls, maitake risotto balls, and stuffed crimini caps, washed down with Taittinger Brut Champagne la Française Reims N.V. Their appetites were further aroused by butternut squash bisque with beech mushrooms, matched with the sinfully delicious Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc 2012. Hot smoked salmon, coupled with the wicked Mer Soleil Silver Unoaked Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands 2011, only spurred on their craving for roasted quail with SUMMER 2014
bison with chanterelle ravioli, accompanied by a Bordeaux blend that revived even the oldest veins. Almond-pear tart and chocolate mousse with caramel sauce completed the repast. Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Lynne Montedonico won first prize for her gruesome “Day of the Dead” bride costume. (“What costume?” she later remarked in evil wonder.) Chevalier Neil Pope took second for his imperson-
1 Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Lynne Montedonico. 2 Chevalier Dwight Kadar and Andrea Kadar. 2
ation of Ebenezer Scrooge, and Chevalier Wade Bell claimed third as the mathematically improbable Pumpkin Pi. Her minions sated, Chambellan Provincial/ Bailli Barbara Breitbart thanked Proprietor/Officier Maître de Table Restaurateur Tom Gilomen, Executive Chef John Teah, and their team for the palate-pleasing, spine-tingling evening. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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TOLEDO
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Hooray for Hollywood! By Kathleen Reed, Vice Chargée de Presse On October 12, the Toledo Bailliage experienced an elegant evening in “Hollywood”—that is, in Toledo’s new Hollywood Casino. The food was divine at Final Cut Steak & Seafood, the casino’s Oscar-worthy restaurant. Glass cases throughout the casino display gowns and costumes worn by Hollywood icons. Displayed in our dining room was a gown worn by Toledo native Katie Holmes at a red-carpet event. Following the reception, Bailli Provincial John Burson presided over the induction ceremony. His account of the Chaîne’s history was equaled only by his superb swordsmanship; he used his own naval sword to induct Chevalier Rex Decker. Our dining tables were staged with beautiful candles and flowers. The first act—osetra caviar with quail egg and crème fraîche—preceded braised duck served with an imaginative foie gras bread pudding. Final Cut is known for its corn-fed, naturally aged prime beef. Each steak is seasoned with kosher salt and garlic, grilled over live
1 Professionel du Vin Christopher Knapik and Jennifer Knapik. 2 Dame Barbara Burson and Chevalier James Sander.
coals, and finished at 1600 degrees to create a thin charred crust that seals in the natural juices. The entrée of Wagyu beef with lobster exemplified fine dining at its best. The final act was an inventive trio comprised of chocolate pâté, port wine push-up, and peach-mint sorbet. After dinner, we were given a backstage tour of the restaurant’s immaculate facilities and received gifts of Final Cut’s signature salt and garlic blend. Discovering an epicurean classic in our own version of Hollywood enabled us to dine like stars.
TULSA
Nose-to-Tail Dinner By Mary Anne Lewis, Vice Chargée de Presse On September 8, the Tulsa Bailliage opened its Chaîne season at the Palace Café, a popular venue located in Tulsa’s charming Cherry Street neighborhood. Proprietor/Chef James Shrader and Chef de Cuisine Tyler Whitson created a seasonal menu emphasizing local ingredients. With its “nose-to-tail” theme, the dinner showcased the American Guinea hog. While sipping Mulderbosch Rosé in the sleek bar, we learned that these creatures weigh less than two hundred pounds and yield fifty to one hundred SUMMER 2014
pounds of meat. The animals originated from the Guinea hog that foraged along the Guinea Coast of West Africa. They were eventually crossed with other breeds. Following this educational component, we were seated at candle-lit tables, ready to go whole hog over the chefs’ creations.
Tulsa Bailliage members.
Dinner opened with terrine of pork, foie gras, and dried cherry pâté. An Uppercut Sauvignon Blanc, with its honeysuckle and lemongrass notes, paired well with the rich meat. Succulent baby back ribs and pork spare ribs were cooked on a pecan-wood grill and served with
refreshing Prairie Farmhouse Ale. The entrée of pork tenderloin porchetta had been slow cooked and marinated in curry-rum sauce. Bailey’s brûlée was a sweet finale to a meal that paid tribute to the delights of the American Guinea hog.
Bailli Sue Gerkin thanked the staff for their gracious service and Chefs Shrader and Whitson for providing us with this unique culinary experience. The Tulsa Chapter continues its path of learning, laughter, and unforgettable dining moments.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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