E X T R A ! SUMMER 2015
IN THIS ISSUE:
Welcoming the Chaîne’s Newest Leaders PAGE 3
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Mid-Atlantic Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition: Triumph in Jersey City
PAGE 4 •••••••••
The Summertime Blues (Cheeses, That Is)
PAGE 7 •••••••••
Catching Up with a Chaîne Superstar:
Sarasota Bailli Honoraire Stanley Demos
PAGE 8 •••••••••
SOUTH CENTRAL REGIONAL ASSEMBLAGE
WELCOMED BY THE VANDERBILTS By Dawn H. Grohs, South Central Chargée de Presse Provincial For three glorious days in March, the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina, hosted the South Central Regional Assemblage, attended by more than sixty confrères representing seven of the region’s bailliages. The iconic “Lady on the Hill” spared nothing in making the occasion special. From our arrival at the Vanderbilt estate to our first glimpse of the Olmsteddesigned gardens to the warm welcome from the staff, we felt as if we had been transported to
an earlier era of refined elegance. This assemblage marked the passing of the torch from longtime Bailli Provincial Thomas Ruff to new Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh. The excellent planning and execution of the event
Celebrating with Aloha By Judith Kellogg, Hawaii/Pacific Islands Chargée de Presse Provincial
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••••••••• National Calendar Foundation Friends Honor Roll
Bailliage Events
Continued on page 5
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS REGIONAL YOUNG SOMMELIERS COMPETITION
Culinary Colloquy
Corps des Ambassadors Program
was evidence of seamless cooperation between the two leaders. Asheville Bailli Beth Poslusny acted as the perfect host, while Bailli Délégué National Harold Small presided with grace.
Bailli Provincial Bruce Liebert, winner Professionnel du Vin Christopher Ramelb, contestant Sommelier Jeremiah Allen, Echanson Provincial Patrick Okubo and Kauai/Oahu Bailli Kathryn Nicholson.
Two competitors managed to pass the initial written test to qualify for the Hawaii/Pacific Islands Regional Young Sommeliers Competition finals. On March 29, Kauai/Oahu Professionnel du Vin Christopher Ramelb of Southern Wine & Spirits and Jeremiah Allen, wine director for Continued on page 6
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A Message from the Editor-in-Chief
CHAÎNE DES RÔTISSEURS GASTRONOME EXTRA! SUMMER 2015
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Marie Addario I’d like to welcome to our regional Gastronome team Chef Jennifer M. Denlinger, M.Ed., CCC, CHE, our new Southeast chargée de presse provincial. This very motivated professional was recently appointed by Bailli Délégué National Harold Small. Another enthusiastic newcomer to the Chaîne, and GE!, is Buffalo Ecuyer Jake Cappuccino, who was recently inducted by his mother, Northeast Chargée de Presse Provincial/Buffalo Bailli Helen Cappuccino. Jake is writing our book and movie reviews. The newly graduated journalist has all the verve and motivation needed for this undertaking, and we are proud to have him aboard. This GE! marks the end of an era. Gastronome and GE! will be redesigned beginning with Gastronome Volume 2 2015, which will be mailed in October. All articles are now required to be accompanied by usable photographs. More information can be found on our website (www.chaineus.org) under Gastronome submissions. We are excited about the redesign and hope you will enjoy the outcome as much as I and our editorial and design staff have enjoyed the process of upgrading and refreshing our publications. We look forward to your feedback. Marie C. Addario Editor-in-Chief, Gastronome and Gastronome Extra! Vice Chargée de Presse National
Moving from his native Spain two decades ago, Chef José Andrés introduced tapas to American palates. He has since founded a humanitarian organization called World Central Kitchen to feed the hungry.
PUBLISHER
Michelle Metter ART & DESIGN
artattack!creative MANAGING EDITOR
Carolyn March
Published by the U.S. Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Copyright 2015 Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Ltd., a New York notfor-profit corporation. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.
FOUNDATION FRIENDS HONOR ROLL Dominick Addario Marie Addario Anonymous Barbara Axel Barbara Burson John Burson Keith Chappell Rufus Cressend Bert Cutino Betrand de Boutray Ira Falk Lois Ferrero Gogol
Burton H. Hobson Hospitality Culinaire, Inc. Robin Jill Jacobs Michael Kalkstein Cheryl Kenny Jill Kummer* Bruce Liebert Shelly Margolis Jane Ann Mathis Sandi Moran Tom Moran Joshua Daniel Mungavin
Marcelo Obén Michael Parmet William Salomon M. Ann Sanford Harold S. Small Mont Stern Michael Ty Irwin Weinberg Renee Wilmeth William Wortman *In memory of Peter Hanowich
NOTE: Foundation Friends renewing after June 30, 2015 who are not listed above will be included in the next issue of Gastronome.
SUMMER 2015
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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Letter from the President
CHAÎNE STARS of EXCELLENCE
Cher Confrères et Consœurs,
BRONZE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Our Puerto Rico Grand Chapitre team has been working tirelessly to create an amazing experience for participants. If you have not yet registered, please do so! (Registration materials are available online.) Our National Council and National Board of Directors meetings are held during the Chapitre, and our committees meet as well. Attend and be part of the decision-making process while learning what your officers have been doing to make your Chaîne experience all that it can be. Take advantage of other travel opportunities available to Chaîne members. When visiting other communities, seek out local Chaîne events and visit member establishments. Further, if you have an idea for a Chaîne travel program, particularly one that you are interested in leading, contact Travel Committee Chairperson Charles Radlauer for guidance. In other news, Chargée de Presse National Michelle Metter and her team have created a trade show booth to educate people about the Chaîne. It was first used, to great acclaim, at the American Culinary Federation’s annual meeting in Orlando. Thousands of chefs and other professionals who did not know about the Chaîne beforehand are now acquainted with it! If you are aware of an event at which the booth may be displayed, contact the National Office. Note as well that our wonderful new membership brochure is available on our website. Show it to friends and family who are interested in the Chaîne and invite them to an event. Continue to share the Chaîne. We are constantly working on bettering our organization and your membership experience. Those who bring in new members will be recognized with “Share the Chaîne” pins for their first, fifth, tenth, and twenty-fifth new members. I look forward to seeing many of you at the Grand Chapitre in Puerto Rico in October. Vive la Chaîne!
Hal
Raymond Marty, Seattle bailli honoraire Walter JL Royal, Triangle vice conseiller culinaire Hendrik Schuitemaker, Triangle vice echanson
Become a Chaîne Ambassador! Foster Chaîne fellowship and experience more benefits of membership during your global travels through the Chaîne’s Corps des Ambassadors Program. For more information, contact Program Chair/Lake Shore Vice Chargée de Missions Kaye Rahn at kayerahn@gmail.com or (773) 860-1664.
You can dine with the fishes in Tianjin Haichang Polar Ocean World’s glass observation tunnel.
Harold S. Small Bailli Délégué National
Congratulations to Our Newest Regional Officers and Baillis Warren M. Barnett, Chattanooga bailli Alex R. Darvishi, Southwest conseiller culinaire provincial James A. Gallivan, South Central conseiller culinaire provincial Raimund Hofmeister, Mid-Atlantic conseiller culinaire provincial Matthew N. Karstetter, Delaware Valley bailli James King, Hawaii Island bailli
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Philip I. Kress, Far West chambellan provincial Kimi J. Matar, Honolulu bailli Dennis G. Shay, Austin bailli Joseph Sheehan, Sacramento bailli Chr istopher J. Speere, Hawaii/Pacific Islands chambellan provincial
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MID-ATLANTIC YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS COMPETITION
2015-2016 UPCOMING EVENTS:
Culinary Triumph in Jersey City PHOTOS BY RICKFORD R. FOO
By Percy Nikora, Mid-Atlantic Chargé de Presse Provincial
SEPTEMBER 11
I nternational Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition Budapest, Hungary Contact: Canada Bailli Délégué David Tétrault at drtetrault@gmail.com
15-20 Hawaii/Pacific Islands Regional
Assemblage Honolulu, Hawaii Contact: Bailli Provincial Bruce Liebert at (808) 956-0807 or bruce.liebert@gmail.com
24-26 International Young Sommeliers (Above) Bailli Provincial Robin Jacobs, Garden State Chef Rôtisseur Rickford Foo, Hudson County Community College Chef/Instructor Sami Khouzam, winner/Delaware Valley Chef Rôtisseur Geno Betz, Garden State Chef Rôtisseur Donald MacMath and Garden State Chef Rôtisseur Richard Bishop. (Left) Winner/Delaware Valley Chef Rôtisseur Geno Betz.
Chefs are the foundation of our beloved Chaîne; it is therefore critical that we support and nurture the next generation whose cuisine we will enjoy in the coming years. On March 8, Mid-Atlantic confrères did just that by attending the region’s Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition in Jersey City, New Jersey. The contestants were required to produce a three-course meal using mystery basket ingredients that included Taylor Bay scallops, lamb saddle, burdock root, Calabasas squash, bone marrow, Asian pear, and salsify. They were judged on their kitchen skills as well as on the appearance, taste, and creativity of their dishes. While all of the young chefs delivered impressive performances, in the end, Delaware Valley Chef Rôtisseur Geno Betz, who works at Philadelphia’s Paradiso Restaurant, was declared the winner. We were inspired by these up-and-coming chefs and left feeling confident that our taste buds will be in good hands for years to come. Further confirmation of this perception came in June, when Chef Betz placed second in the National Young Chefs Rôtisseurs Competition! SUMMER 2015
Competition/Australia Grand Chapitre Adelaide, Australia Contact: Grand Argentier Joseph Girard at joegirard@thewhalehouse.com
OCTOBER 29NOV 1 U.S. Grand Chapitre
San Juan, Puerto Rico Contact: National Office at (973) 360-9200
MARCH 4-6 Southwest Regional Assemblage
Houston, Texas Contact: Bailli Provincial Bill Salomon at (210) 867-4855 or bill@billsalomon.com
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id-Atlantic Regional Assemblage M Atlantic City, New Jersey Contact: Bailli Provincial Robin Jacobs at (908) 522-0741 or midatlanticbp@gmail.com
18-20 South Central Regional Assemblage Nashville, Tennessee Contact: Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh at (917) 612-6714 or wahirsh@aol.com
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Friday evening’s dress code was “cowboy casual” as attendees dined at the estate’s Antler Hill Barn. Multiple food stations offered tempting treats, wine flowed freely, and a red-hot bluegrass band kept things lively. Saturday opened with a Southern breakfast buffet at the Inn on Biltmore Estate, followed by work sessions focusing on the Young Chefs Rôtisseurs and Young Sommeliers competitions, the Société Mondiale du Vin, Gastronome submission guidelines, and Bailli Boot Camp. The afternoon offered a private tour of the Biltmore mansion, with a stop at the Biltmore Winery for a special tour and tasting. The formal dinner on Saturday night was a celebration of all things Chaîne. New members were welcomed; awards were granted; and several in attendance received special recognition from Chaîne dignitaries. Particularly moving was a special tribute to Vice Echanson National Honoraire William Wortman, who has contributed so much to the Chaîne over the years. Through his work on behalf of the Chaîne Foundation and the Société Mondiale du Vin, including as editor of that section in Gastronome, and as the longtime editor of the magazine’s “Turning Spit” section, Vice Echanson National Honoraire Wortman exemplifies what any organization needs to prosper and grow. The entire assemblage was united in thanking him for his invaluable service. Departing delegates were sorry to leave the magical world that is the Biltmore but eager to create their own magic through their respective Chaîne chapters. SUMMER 2015
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4 1 Bailli Délégué National Harold Small, Bailli Provincial Tony Hirsh and Bailli Provincial Hon. Thomas Ruff with SC officers. 2 Vice Echanson National Hon. William Wortman and Bailli Délégué National Harold Small. 3 SC officers. 5 4 Myrtle Beach Bailli Allyson Hirsh, Dame Suzanne Cure, Anna Kirby, Dame Sharon Fallon and San Diego Officier Susan Small. 5 Chevalier George Morosani, Judy Morosani, Dame Ginny Weiler and Asheville Vice Chargé de Missions Robert Weiler.
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Merriman’s Kapalua spent a grueling day tasting wines and confronting difficult service challenges put before them by the judges. The panel was comprised of Echanson Provincial Patrick Okubo, MS, CWE, David Gochros, CWE, and Sean Isono, sommelier at the Halekulani Resort’s La Mer restaurant and a previous regional Young Sommeliers Competition winner. The young men were able to relax at that evening’s awards dinner organized by Kauai/Oahu Bailli Kathryn Nicholson. Livestock Tavern is one of downtown Honolulu’s newest “hot” venues, appropriate for celebrating the “hot” new generation of wine experts. Owners/Chefs Dusty Grable and Jesse Cruz prepared a delicious menu featuring tasty “down-home” comfort food, reconfigured with upscale touches. Echanson Provincial Okubo spoiled us with some superb wines, all French and all with some nice age. Of course, the highlight of the evening was the announcement of the winner. Echanson Provincial Okubo, himself a three-time regional Young Sommeliers Competition winner, told us how closely matched the two competitors were coming into the competition, since they had earned identical scores on the written exam. However, only one could win, and that was Professionnel du Vin Ramelb, who also won last year. We know that he and Mr. Allen both have bright futures ahead of them. 2
PHOTOS BY MIRELLA MONOSCALCO
Continued from page 1
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1 Pete Boolukus, Robin Boolukus, Dame Kim Yoshino and Byron Yoshino. 2 Kauai/Oahu Ecuyer Madalyn Burr, Maile Miller, Kauai/Oahu Bailli Kathryn Nicholson, Qi Marie Gao and Kauai/Oahu Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Hon. Diana Wehrly. 3 Chevalier Richard Turbin, Chargée de Presse Provincial Judith Kellogg, Rai Saint Chu and Kauai/Oahu Maître de Table Restaurateur John Smiley.
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Star chef Thomas Keller brought in dancer-choreographer Catherine Turocy to teach French baroque dancing to his waiters at his New York restaurant Per Se.
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What to Do with the Summertime Blues?
(Above) SE Chargée de Presse Provincial Jennifer Denlinger and Le Cordon Bleu College Chef/ Instructor Kate Restifo. (Right) Clockwise from top left: Blueberry Stilton, Shropshire Cheddar Blue, Point Reyes Blue and Cambozola Blue Brie.
By Jennifer M. Denlinger, Southeast Chargée de Presse Provincial In summer, nothing could be finer than indulging in some of the finest blue cheese. Getting to know these precisely aged works of art is very rewarding. Pairing them with a good wine is even better. The same DOC laws used for wines apply to blue cheese production. Every area that produces blue cheese uses a different mold. To begin the process, mold is added to milk, and when it has coagulated, it is cut into cubes. After being drained, it is packed into frames until set. Most of the time, long skewers are used to penetrate the cheese at intervals, which allows oxygen to cultivate the mold. However, if the cheese is loosely packed, it is not skewered. Blue cheese may appear yellow or light green, which are indications that the mold has not fully oxidized. Crumble the cheese and let it sit at room temperature for a while; as the mold is oxygenated, it will turn blue. When a blue cheese turns bad, it becomes pink, gray, or brown, and will have an off, strong, odor. It is best stored in the refrigerator, wrapped in foil, plastic wrap, or wax paper so that it can breathe. Usually served from a whole round with a long-handled cheese scoop to remove the best cheese from the center, blue cheese is often used in cooking as it melds nicely with other flavors. While there are many great blues to choose from, the following are a few top-notch blue cheese/wine duos: SUMMER 2015
POINT REYES BLUE Crafted in Point Reyes, California, from raw cow’s milk, this blue cheese uses vegetarian rennet. Its tangy sweetness is perfect for salads, dressings, dips, steak, honey, figs, stone fruit, and berries. About $18/lb. Domaine la Tour Vieille Banyuls Reserva N.V. Grapes: Grenache, Grenache Gris, and Carignan Flavors: Fortified and rich; prunes, coffee, dark cooked fruits CAMBOZOLA A “blue Brie” from the Allgäu region of Germany, Cambozola is a triplecream cheese made from pasteurized cow’s milk. The mold is the same that is used for Roquefort cheeses from France. Another characteristic is the slightly crunchy rind bloom. Cambozola is smooth, creamy, salty, and rich. Pair it with fruit and honey. About $24/lb. Maison Bertrand Ambroise Bourgogne 2011 Grape: Pinot Noir Flavors: Ripe red fruits and zesty acidity with a light body
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MEMBER UPDATES
Catching Up with a Chaîne Superstar: Sarasota Bailli Honoraire Stanley Demos By Jennifer M. Denlinger, Southeast Chargée de Presse Provincial At the young age of ninety-five, Stanley Demos is as dynamic as ever. He is among a rare group of confrères with fifty or more years of Chaîne membership. The former longtime Sarasota bailli has many accolades to commemorate his time in the organization. He was honored with the 1995 President’s medal. In 2000, he became a grand officier commandeur. He also holds a Bronze Star of Excellence and was the first-ever recipient of the Médaille Présidentielle. Throughout his career, he has worked at several upscale venues, including La Maisonette in Cincinnati. For more than twenty years, he owned the elegant Coach House in Lexington, Kentucky. After selling the restaurant, he and his second wife, Patricia, moved to Sarasota. For his Chaîne induction in 1962, he had to travel from Cincinnati to New York. The St. Regis Hotel was abuzz with excitement; Mr. Demos was inducted by Grand Chancelier Jean Valby. To this day, his favorite meal is Florida stone crabs, beef filet with béarnaise sauce or lamb chops, salad, and wedges of cheese followed by cherries jubilee or crêpe suzette. Today, his life is simple. He cooks dinner every night, except on Saturdays, when he and Patricia go out on the town. His favorite drink is non-alcoholic German beer. Mr. Demos is proud to have been a member since soon after the U.S. Chaîne was founded. He not only loves good meals but the wonderful people he has met in the organization.
1 Induction at St. Regis Hotel, New York, 1962: Maître Rôtisseur Stanley Demos, Bailli Délégué National Edward Benenson, Grand Maître George Portmann and Grand Chancelier Jean Valby. 2 Stanley Demos and Patricia Demos. 3 Recipient of the Médaille Présidentielle, 2005. 2
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SHROPSHIRE Shropshire cheese, which is produced using the Stilton method, is a blue cheddar from Nottinghamshire, in England’s Leicestershire region. It uses pasteurized cow’s milk, vegetarian rennet, annatto for color, and the same mold that is used in Roquefort cheese. It needs to age for at least twelve weeks and is characterized by a salty, musty taste, with mold crystals on the rind. About $20/lb. Château Barbe Blanche 2010 Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Franc Flavors: Red and black currant, velvety tannins, hints of vanilla
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BLUEBERRY STILTON Fruit-bearing Stilton cheese, such as Blueberry Stilton, is also known as “white Stilton,” or immature blue cheese. It uses full-cream cow’s milk, is not inoculated with mold, and is only about four weeks old, making it dense and crumbly. White Stiltons can only be produced in England’s Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, or Leicestershire regions. It is considered a dessert cheese, although it is quite tasty on salad with blueberry dressing. Use it for cheesecake or pair with cookies, fresh blueberries, or field greens. About $20/lb. Osborne Pedro Ximénez Sherry Grape: Pedro Ximénez Flavors: Sherry with raisins, toffee, and chocolate; long, lingering finish
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CULINARY COLLOQUY
By Jake Cappuccino, Buffalo Ecuyer
JIRO DREAMS OF SUSHI Chef Jiro Ono literally dreams about creating sushi, his passion reaching a point that few ever attain. Jiro Dreams of Sushi documents his life and the lives of his sons at his three-star Michelin restaurant Sukiyabashi Jiro. His is a lifelong love affair with sushi. This documentary put David Gelb on the map with good reason. Not only does Gelb show Jiro’s story, but he also documents the elaborate work that goes into producing the best sushi in the world. We meet tuna dealers, rice sellers, and the restaurant’s apprentices, all of whom strive for Jiro’s approval in his pursuit of perfection. For Jiro, simplicity and minimalism are perfection. Of the hundreds of shots of sushi seen throughout the movie, few feature more than one type of seafood, rice, and a glaze of soy sauce. And yet, insists Japanese food writer Yamamoto, who is featured heavily in the documentary, the sushi is consistently the best that he has ever eaten. This film is not only for foodies (though the story of the sushi is reason enough for foodies); it’s for anybody curious about a man’s journey toward unattainable perfection and the incredible results that emerge from that journey. Find Jiro Dreams of Sushi on Netflix.
CHEF’S TABLE Netflix’s documentary series is more than food television. Chef’s Table not only showcases innovative, elegant food but also shares the humanity, humor, and challenges that are part of the journey for some of the world’s most renowned culinarians. Whether it’s postmodern cuisine or farm-to-table cooking, director David Gelb uses the same style as in Jiro Dreams of Sushi, managing to capture the sheer beauty, creativity, thoughtfulness, and extravagance of the food on film. Each episode highlights some of the chef’s most famous dishes. As one writer said in an interview about one of the featured chefs, the restaurants and chefs are not just about the food. Neither is Chef’s Table. The series is about the art and the story behind the food, and the experience, memory, and change that exceptional food and a gifted chef can create. Catch Chef’s Table at your leisure on Netflix for compelling stories and beautiful food.
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TRAVEL THE WORLD OF THE CHAÎNE!
The amazing July 2-9, 2016 Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Athens to Rome SeaDream Luxury Mediterranean Yacht Cruise is filling up, with only a limited number of cabins remaining.
For information, visit www.chaineus.org. This Chaîne cruise aboard the SeaDream (which Forbes rated the “Best Small Luxury Cruise Ship of 2015”) will include, exclusively for Chaîne members, fabulous pre- and post-cruise activities in Athens and Rome, as well as a delectable special dining experience on the isle of Capri or the Amalfi Coast.
ALBANY
Albany Hits the High Seas By William Harris, Bailli What could enhance the inherently delightful experience of a cruise? Sharing it with fellow fun-loving Chaîne members, which is precisely what fourteen Albany Bailliage members did from October 5-12. A private bus supplied with snacks and libations took us to the Boston pier, where we boarded the Royal Caribbean’s Brilliance of the Seas. Our ports of call included Halifax, Nova Scotia; Saint John, New Brunswick; and Bar Harbor and Portland, Maine. During the day, attendees engaged in individual activities, reconvening for dinner proudly wearing their Chaîne decorations. These were a source of interest to fellow passengers, and we cheerfully fielded questions about the Chaîne. We believe that several will be contacting local bailliages with
requests to be put on their guest lists. Our group dined in three of the ship’s specialty restaurants: Izumi, Chops Grille, and the elegant Chef’s Table. On other evenings, after a meal in the main dining room, we adjourned to one of the many bars to enjoy live entertainment. Our lively group sang along with the piano player and stayed until closing. On the bus trip back to Albany, we unanimously agreed to plan another cruise, this time heading south. Destination: the Caribbean!
BUFFALO SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN
Gran Selezione Wine Event By Jacqueline Cappuccino, Vice Chargée de Presse The 31 Club was the perfect venue for the Buffalo Mondiale’s Gran Selezione wine event on October 15. The first flight was poured soon after attendees arrived. Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico la Forra Gran Selezione 2011, with its fruit and floral notes, paired well with an array of cheeses. Fattoria Viticcio Beatrice Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2011 possessed fruit and mineral notes, while the fuller Luiano Ottantuno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione offered oaky and vanilla flavors. The next flight was San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva Il Grigio Gran Selezione 2010 and Felsina Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva 2010. The San Felice is comprised of 80% Sangiovese, with the remaining 20% reflecting a combination of some of the two SUMMER 2015
hundred-plus forgotten varietals in the estate’s vitiarium. These forgotten varietals add intrigue to this complex, albeit well-balanced, wine. The last flight was Castello di Ama Chianti Classico San Lorenzo Gran Selezione 2010 and Castello di Ama
(Above) Chargée de Presse Provincial/Bailli Helen Cappuccino and Chambellan Provincial Mont Stern. (Below) Chevalier Wyatt Arthurs and Vice Echanson Eric Genau.
Haiku 2010. The Haiku, comprised of 50% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot, and 25% Cabernet Franc, seemed to be the favorite of this flight. Both wines had intense red fruit flavors that hit our noses and taste buds immediately. The wonderful 31 Club team created a culinary frame for the art— wines—of the evening. The wines inspired great conversation among attendees, including talk of a possible Mondiale trip to Italy to explore this region. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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CINCINNATI
Penguins and Dinner and Art, Oh My! By Graig Smith, Vice Chargé de Presse On the beautiful evening of September 14, Cincinnati Bailliage members gathered at the 21c Museum Hotel for their fall dinner. The first 21c Museum Hotel opened in Louisville in 2006. There are now four 21c Museum Hotel locations, including Cincinnati; the unique concept combines a contemporary art museum, boutique hotel, and fabulous restaurant in one space. The penguin mascot, a different color for each city, adds a fun dimension. Our event was the culmination of many months of planning by newly appointed Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Barbara Lancor, Vice Echanson Mike Monnin, and Chef Michael Paley of the hotel’s Metropole restaurant. The reception—and our introduction to the 21c concept—was held in a gallery filled with stunning contemporary artwork. This first event that Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Lancor organized was a huge success, and we are excited to see what else she has in store for us. The 21c Museum Hotel is just one example of the vibrant makeover occurring in downtown Cincinnati. Our bailliage is fortunate to be caught up in this revolution of food, wine, and the arts. We have many exciting new venues to experience, and they are right in our own backyard! We are finding there really is “no place like home” here in Cincinnati.
Vice ChancelierArgentier Susan Verschoor, Carol Monnin, Kathryn Bender, Maître Hôtelier Russell Menkes and Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Barbara Lancor.
PHOTO BY VICKI ALTMEYER
CONNECTICUT
Dîner des Joyeuses Fêtes By Allison Reams, Bailli At the Connecticut Bailliage’s holiday celebration on December 7, the twenty-nine attendees included several confrères from the Hartford Bailliage led by Bailli Gary Dunn. When the plans were being made for this delightful event, we couldn’t think of a more fitting venue for a Chaîne holiday dinner than a French restaurant. Yet, we didn’t want to go to just any French restaurant. We chose the one recently voted the best French restaurant in Connecticut by Connecticut magazine. Even more impressive, it was also voted the best overall restaurant in Connecticut by readers of the magazine. The restaurant, of course, is Bernard’s, located in historic Ridgefield and housed in a circa-1875 inn that was lovingly transformed into an award-winning dining destination. Owner/Chef Bernard Bouissou runs the restaurant with his wife/business partner, Sarah Bouissou. The couple has worked wonderfully with our chapter on many previous occasions, but for this celebration, they really pulled out all the stops. Happy holidays, indeed! SUMMER 2015
Professionnel du Vin Sharon Rychlik and Bailli Allison Reams.
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DELAWARE VALLEY SOCIÉTÉ MONDIALE DU VIN
Kistler Wine Dinner By Ellen Rosenberg, Vice Chargée de Presse The name Kistler is synonymous with world-class Chardonnay. In fact, Robert Parker is quoted as saying, “If the Kistler Winery could be magically transported to the middle of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, it would quickly gain a reputation as glorious as any producer of Burgundy grand crus.” On October 19, the Delaware Valley Mondiale gathered at Co-Owner/Chef Jason Cichonski’s restaurant Ela in Philadelphia to sample Kistler wines with Master of Wine Geoff Labitzke. Mr. Labitzke is director of sales and marketing for Kistler and has served as a judge for the National Young Sommeliers Competition. The first dinner course featured a rare Kistler Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay 2010, which sparkled with cobia crudo. Kistler Vine Hill Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 paired perfectly with black-pepper fusilli with coddled egg. For the reds, we savored Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2013 with crispy pork belly and scallop spätzle, finishing with Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 paired with pulled short rib, pecan pudding, and red cabbage. Kistler wines are indeed glorious, and it was very special to share them and the spirit of Chaîne camaraderie with fellow members.
Chevalier William Goldman and Ellie Goldman.
DES MOINES
FORT LAUDERDALE
Culinary Explosion
Feasting at 15th Street Fisheries
By Sandy Cutter, Vice Chargée de Presse
By Jana Soeldner Danger, Southeast Chargée de Presse Provincial Honoraire
In recent years, as the Des Moines dining scene has exploded, the Des Moines Bailliage has been making a concerted effort to support local establishments and spread the word about the city’s finest culinary hot spots. Brothers Steve and Joe Logsdon hosted a wonderful event for the Des Moines Chapter on November 9. While Joe Logsdon, owner/chef of La Mie restaurant, prepared the menu, his brother lent the upscale, minimalist space of his East Village restaurant, Lucca. Chef Joe brought along Chef de Cuisine Mike Kalhorn to help prepare the feast, which began with gougères with wild mushroom mousse and foie gras terrine. They continued to tantalize with lobster salad and Parisian gnocchi before presenting espelette-spiced chicken. (Espelette is a chili pepper grown in the Basque region of France and is considered mildly hot.) Finally, we were treated to raspberry-orange vol-au-vent with hazelnuts and chocolate ganache. Each course was served with a remarkable wine, making for delightful pairings. SUMMER 2015
On January 20, Fort Lauderdale Bailliage members headed to the Fort Lauderdale Marina for dinner at a local landmark known for its fresh seafood and homemade breads. The setting of the two-story 15th Street Fisheries restaurant, with its beautiful Intercoastal Waterway views, is as much a draw as the great food. In South Florida, restaurants come and go like mayflies, but 15th Street Fisheries has been attracting locals and tourists since 1978. We headed upstairs, where a warren of small dining rooms creates a cozy ambiance. During the reception, Owner Ted Drum mingled with our group and later sat down to dine with us. Executive Chef Lenny Judice, who is experienced in classic French, Asian fusion, New World, and other cuisines, created an outstanding menu. His love for food began in childhood, when he helped out in the kitchen of his mother’s restaurant in Santurce, Puerto Rico. The five-course feast, featuring flavorful meats as well as the seafood for which Fisheries is famous, showcased Chef Judice’s skill and creativity. At evening’s end, the kitchen brigade came out to take a bow, and Bailli Jack Kane presented Chef Judice with a plaque to commemorate the occasion. GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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HARTFORD
Welcoming Autumn at the Canoe Club By Jennifer Dunn, Vice Chancelier-Argentier Located on the banks of the Connecticut River, the exclusive Hartford Canoe Club, with its handsome hunting-lodge décor, ushered in autumn for the Hartford Bailliage on November 15 with floor-toceiling stone fireplaces laid with roaring fires, log beams, an enclosed terrace for the reception, and plenty of antlers on the walls. The magnificently decorated dining table spanned the room, providing a vista of colorful fall foliage, pomegranates, candles, glassware, and a huntingthemed service. On one side of the room, the Chaîne flag hung above the blazing fire; on the other, a jazz duo played tuneful strains. The Canoe Club began as a private men’s dining club in 1879 and has remained faithful to this tradition ever since, thus affording members the unique opportunity to taste Chef Ana Robaina’s inventive cuisine for the first time, thanks to club member Vice Chargé de Missions Frank Szilagyi, who hosted the event. Attendees stayed late into the evening to enjoy drinks and cigars by the fire, departing with
Vice Chancelier-Argentier Jennifer Dunn and Bailli Gary Dunn.
gifts of chocolate turkeys and a sense of convivial joy.
LA GRANDE CAVE DU NEW JERSEY
The Grapes of New Jersey By Wendy Merkin Piller, Vice Chargée de Presse La Grande Cave du New Jersey Chapter members are interested in both growing their wine cellar and learning about all aspects of wine. Robert Wilson, one of the owners of Unionville Vineyards located in Hunterdon County’s beautiful farm country, invited confrères to a tasting at the winery on September 28. Despite being the most densely populated state in the country, New Jersey is committed to preserving its farmlands. Unionville Vineyards is part of its Farmland Preservation Program, which enables continued investment in maintaining viable agricultural enterprises in the Garden State. Attendees were enthralled by Mr. Wilson’s account of the winery’s history and awed by the character and quality of the wines sampled. Dinner took place down the road in Flemington, at acclaimed Owner/Chef Matthew
A West African chimp study’s leading researcher, Kimberley Hockings, reported that a female consorted more often with a male who gave her stolen papayas. Dames, beware of chevaliers bearing gifts.
McPherson’s Matt’s Red Rooster Grill. With the delicious meal, we continued to sip Unionville wines. In a standout pairing, Unionville Pheasant Hill Vineyard Chardonnay 2012 accompanied the scallops. Although this wine had received raves when tasted earlier in the evening, it earned additional accolades when enjoyed with the seafood. Although the evening was packed with information, the take-home message seemed to be the impressive potential of New Jersey grapes. In addition to magnificent farm-to-plate food, the Garden State is capable of producing the highest-caliber farm-to-glass wines as well. SUMMER 2015
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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LA GRANDE CAVE DU NEW JERSEY
LONG ISLAND
Year of the Sheep Celebration
Another Gem at Pearl East
By Wendy Merkin Piller, Vice Chargée de Presse The Chinese New Year, or Spring Festival, is an important celebration in China. On February 22, the La Grande Cave du New Jersey Bailliage rang in the Year of the Sheep with a Chinese New Year celebration at Cathay 22, located in Springfield, New Jersey. The dining room was decorated in red—the Chinese symbol for good luck. At the reception, attendees were served Domaine Chadon Étoile Brut N.V. to enjoy with honey spare ribs, seafood shumai, and fried Chinese eggplant stuffed with pork. After the first seated course of savory wonton soup, dinner was served family style, with cold preparations followed by hot dishes. Matched with an exquisite Domaine Lafarge Auxey-Duresses les HautsCôtes 2010, the cold dishes included beef tenderloin, sesame jelly fish, Buddha’s delight, ban-ban chicken, and spinach seaweed. For the hot dishes, we savored mu-shu pork, shrimp with Grand Marnier sauce, garlic-sautéed cabbage, fish with ginger-scallion sauce, and ya-call fried rice. Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Bourgogne Rouge les Grands Chaillots 2011, with concentrated raspberry fruit, accompanied the array of flavorful dishes. We ended the celebration with wishes for a prosperous new year, golden sesame bananas, a sampling of different Sauternes from our chapter’s cellar, and hearty applause for Owner/Chef Philip Wang.
By Jerome Siller, Bailli Despite having postponed the original event for two weeks due to snow, the Long Island Bailliage managed to fill the beautifully decorated private room of Pearl East, in Manhasset, New York, on March 15. The dynamic force behind this eagerly anticipated annual event is Owner Cathy Huang, who ensures execution of the highest levels of food and service possible. The champagne reception featuring nine delicious appetizers was followed by an eight-course dinner enhanced by amazing food sculptures. Of special note was the service and culinary staffs’ effectiveness in maintaining the flow of dishes and fostering a party atmosphere. Of course, none of this would have been possible without the indefatigable leadership of Owner Huang. It is gratifying that our chapter often hosts confrères from other bailliages. From Bergen County we welcomed Bailli Oleh Bachynsky, Bailli Honoraire Sarah Bachynsky, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Gail Taenzler, and Paul Taenzler. Chevalier Sal Fazzi and Marysue Robbins made the trip from Albany, while Officier Richard Maidman and Vice Chargé de Missions Grant Ripp visited from the New York Chapter. High praise was offered from these guests, who professed that it was one of the best Chaîne dinners they had ever attended.
LONG ISLAND
A New Favorite By Jerome Siller, Bailli The newly named Ristorante Da Claudio occupies the space that previously housed La Pace restaurant, host to numerous past Chaîne events. Owner Claudio Zustovich and his son, Fabrizio Zustovich, along with Chef Guiseppe Capobianco, ensure that the venue maintains the laudable traditions of its predecessor by using the finest products to create excellent cuisine. The Long Island Bailliage dined there on November 2. At the reception, attendees enjoyed five delicious hors d’oeuvres, paired with Roederer Estate champagne. Dinner offered many culinary highlights, including mushroom soup, branzino filet with truffled risotto, and the superb entrée of veal rack with brandied mushrooms, cream sauce, mashed potatoes, and cheese-glazed asparagus. Dessert was puff pastry with strawberries and cream coupled with a fabulous chocolate mousse cake. Port was served as a final treat. The evening’s wines included a Hess Cabernet Sauvignon, a Simi Sauvignon Blanc, and a Ruffino Pinot Grigio Lumina. SUMMER 2015
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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PHOTOS BY TRAVIS KEYES
NEW YORK
Culinary Adventure at the Gander By Emily Klein, Vice Chargée de Presse On the rainy night of October 15, the New York Bailliage faced the elements in anticipation of a culinary reward. And rewarded we were as Owner/Chef Jesse Schenker left it all on the field, as they say, at his latest venture, the Gander. Attendees were escorted to a private dining room, where their sig-
Bailli Jim Wallick.
nature pink bubbly awaited them, complemented by three delicious hors d’oeuvres. The meal highlights included crisp, spicy chorizo and the fish, which was meaty and simply seasoned to work in harmony with a delicate, paper-thin slice of terrine and earthy mushroom purée. For dessert, we enjoyed La Tur cheesecake with apple crisp, sesame seeds, and Tellicherry pepper. The cheesecake was creamy and tangy with a hint of pepper, sitting atop the “crisp,” while the apple was found alongside compote emboldened by dark caramel painted underneath. This sweet treat was the perfect end to a magnificent meal. Before departing, we thanked Chef Schenker and Wine Director Rick Pitcher for treating us to an extraordinary dining experience.
PHOTO BY TRAVIS KEYES
NEW YORK
The Reason They Built the Brooklyn Bridge By Omar Khan, Vice Conseiller Gastronomique According to one Zagat reviewer, Owner/Chef Mark Lahm’s Brooklyn eatery Henry’s End—still flourishing forty-plus years after its inception—“is the reason they built the Brooklyn Bridge.” On November 5, the New York Bailliage made the crossing for a game feast paired with an array of lively wines. The restaurant’s charming, rustic interior was aglow with warmth and camaraderie. Diners especially enjoyed spiced kangaroo loin with sweet potato. Gustatory excitement mounted with the presentation of elk chop in Madeira sauce—succulent, tender, with rich texture and great appeal. SUMMER 2015
The meal concluded with twentyone-layer crêpe, served with a Rare Wine Company New York Malmsey from the historic Thomas Jefferson Series. The succession of flavors reinforced and enhanced each other: gossamer-light crêpes with vibrant raspberry and rich custard married with a wine exhibiting grace, balance, an undercurrent of sweetness, and an exquisite, lingering finish. It was a “game night” indeed, complete with exceptional cuisine, wonderful hospitality from Chef Lahm and his team, and that signature Chaîne spirit that takes everything to a new level.
Albany Officier Commandeur/ Maître Rôtisseur Louis Bruno, Jr.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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SAN ANTONIO
Cooking with the Dames at Central Market By Amy White, Dame de la Chaîne The Central Market Cooking School was the setting for the San Antonio Bailliage’s “La Chaîne des Fleurs” event on the lovely fall day of November 1.Three of the school’s talented chefs guided the sixteen attendees through a “Gulf Coast Seafood 101” course in which four delicious recipes were prepared and later enjoyed. To start, attendees were divided into four groups and assigned food preparation stations. A chef guided them through the first recipe of jalapeño-corn crab cakes. The second preparation, wilted spinach with warm bacon vinaigrette, was the perfect complement to the crab cakes. Blue cheese and walnuts finished the salad beautifully. The third preparation, chicken-fried oysters, was a real treat. The oysters, which had come from Washington State, were also added to the salad. Wonderful! The final recipe was pecan-crusted fish filets. An extension of the San Antonio Chapter, La Chaîne des Fleurs has been enjoying activities such as fashion shows, cooking classes, and visits to art galleries and wineries quarterly for the past four years. Its members are
Vice Chargée de Presse Hon. Judy Salomon, Dame Pam Wise, Dame Patricia Parker Weber and Dame Fran Chudnow.
from diverse backgrounds but all are bright, inquisitive women who share a love of food and wine!
WEST PALM BEACH
Tribute Dinner at Frenchman’s Creek By Susan Esson, Vice Chargée de Presse On April 20,West Palm Beach Bailliage members gathered for a black-tie affair at the ever-chic Frenchman’s Creek, a residential country club located in Jupiter, Florida, and home to Maître de Table Restaurateur Achal Goswami. At the reception, we toasted the memory of Grand Officier Maître Henry Warren, who passed away earlier this year. A co-founder of the West Palm Beach Chapter, Grand Officier Maître Warren was the only person in the history of the Chaîne to receive a haut commandeur pin, which was presented to him at the Grand Chapitre in New Orleans SUMMER 2015
in 2014. Executive Chef Bernd Linsenmayer’s creative flavor profiles and stunning presentations made for an unparalleled dining experience. The scrumptious courses were perfectly paired with wines through collaboration by Beverage Manager Stephen Fisher, Bailli Honoraire Douglas Martin, Vice ChancelierArgentier Jeffrey Blitz, and Bailli Leila Warren. The waitstaff performed beautifully, delivering their finest five-star s ervice. It was the perfect way to wrap up the 2014-2015 season and left us eager to start the 2015-2016 season!
New York and Chicago will be the first to take advantage of UberEATS, a food delivery service by the transportation giant Uber, who tested the markets in Barcelona and Los Angeles. It is ready to roll.
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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WEST PALM BEACH
WEST PALM BEACH
Evening to Remember
New Year, New Members
By Susan Esson, Vice Chargée de Presse
By Susan Esson, Vice Chargée de Presse
Upon learning that Bailli Honoraire Douglas Martin had contributed Siberian osetra caviar, Platinum Russian Vodka, and PiperHeidseick Rare Millésime Brut 2002 to the West Palm Beach Bailliage’s dinner at Trevini Ristorante on March 23, attendees knew they were in for a memorable evening. The reception was held in the Palm Beach venue’s intimate courtyard. We mixed and mingled while savoring delectable appetizers of jumbo lump crabmeat cocktail, mojito-cured salmon tartare, and goat cheese-filled bresaola della Valtellina. A private dining room was the setting for the six-course dinner, which was a flavorful tour of Italy paired with well-chosen wines. The lovely meal concluded with Château d’Yquem 1994 served from magnums. Capping an evening of many treats, Bailli Honoraire Martin had graciously donated this sumptuous Sauternes from his private cellar. This evening, as is every evening under the leadership of Bailli Leila Warren, was truly one to remember.
On February 19, West Palm Beach Bailliage members celebrated the Chinese New Year, heralding the Year of the Sheep, with an induction dinner at Echo Palm Beach. Bailli Provincial Charles Radlauer and Bailli Leila Warren inducted Dame de la Chaîne Jean Dolan and Chevalier Steven Rayburn before elevating Vice Chargée de Presse Susan Esson. Asian culinary delights were showcased through a resplendent menu executed under the guidance of Food and Beverage Director/ Officier Maître de Table Hôtelier Nick Velardo. Among the many delicacies were shark fin-crab soup, Peking duck lotus buns, chow fun noodles with Kurobuta pork, banana leaf-wrapped sea bass, and chocolate-dipped fortune cookies. Attendees departed not only with their yin and yang intact but also with little red envelopes filled with lucky money! What a great way to start off the new year!
Competition Winners YOUNG CHEFS RÔTISSEURS FAR WEST Mateo Cancio La Posada Lodge and Casitas, Tucson, AZ
MIDWEST Matthew Phillips Blue Hills Country Club, Kansas City, MO
SOUTH CENTRAL Matthew Pate Biltmore Forest Country Club, Asheville, NC
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS Melanie Tancino Sheraton Waikiki, Honolulu, HI
NORTHEAST Spyridon Giannakoulopolous Three Village Inn, Stony Brook, NY
SOUTHEAST Devin Davis Tampa, FL
MID-ATLANTIC Geno Betz Paradiso, Philadelphia, PA
PACIFIC NORTHWEST Oleg Vetkov Canlis, Seattle, WA
SOUTHWEST Jerónimo Espiritu JW Marriott, San Antonio, TX
FAR WEST Micah Clark Steak & Whisky, Hermosa Beach, CA
MIDWEST Andrey Ivanov Reeds American Table, St. Louis, MO
SOUTH CENTRAL Femi Oyediran Charleston Place Hotel, Charleston, SC
HAWAII/PACIFIC ISLANDS Christopher Ramelb Southern Wine & Spirits, Honolulu, HI
NORTHEAST Mia Van de Water North End Grill, New York, NY
SOUTHEAST Jill Davis Four Seasons at Walt Disney World, Orlando, FL
MID-ATLANTIC John Filkins Potomac Selections, Inc., Hyattsville, MD
PACIFIC NORTHWEST Jackson Rohrbaugh Canlis, Seattle, WA
SOUTHWEST Kelly Wooldridge Mizuna Restaurant/Bonanno, Denver, CO
YOUNG SOMMELIERS
SUMMER 2015
GASTRONOME EXTRA!
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