Supplemento al n. 248, giugno-luglio-agosto 2012 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n째 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 02/2012 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718
PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E
ALL THE BASICS OF PASTRY MAKING THOUGHTS ON THE CRISIS THE QUEEN OF PASTRY A QUESTION OF STYLE RICE, MILK AND CHESTNUTS GELATO ON TOP OF THE WORLD BUT WHY?! CHICAGO RESTAURANT PASTRY COMPETITION NEWS
issue twenty-one-2012
CHIRIOTTI EDITORI
10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
www.luxardo.it
PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E
All the basics of pastry making Thoughts on the crisis The queen of pastry A question of style Rice, milk and chestnuts Gelato on top of the world But why?! Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition
News Pierre’s gardens The synergy for chocolate Sigep 2013 anticipates trends and multiplies business all over the world Quality from Sicily Soft gelato enters the pastry shop All in one The Relais Desserts in Alsace Italians for Lyons Liqueur excellence Two classic shapes for a modern cake For small delicacies
Supplemento al n. 248, giugno-luglio-agosto 2011 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 01/2012 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718
In this issue ALL THE BASICS OF PASTRY MAKING THOUGHTS ON THE CRISIS THE QUEEN OF PASTRY A QUESTION OF STYLE RICE, MILK AND CHESTNUTS GELATO ON TOP OF THE WORLD BUT WHY?! CHICAGO RESTAURANT PASTRY COMPETITION NEWS
issue twenty-one-2012
CHIRIOTTI EDITORI
10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Livia Chiriotti SENIOR EDITOR Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti NEWS EDITORS Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino Monica Onnis ASSISTANT EDITOR Chiara Comba TRANSLATIONS Windsor - Pinerolo MARKETING EDITOR Monica Pagliardi ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Luigi Voglino voglino@chiriottieditori.it ART DIRECTOR Studio Impagina PRINTED BY Tipografia Giuseppini Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright © 2012 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 248 - 2012 ON OUR COVER Cassiopea by Sonia Balacchi
queur excellence
wo classic shapes for a modern cake
m o c . e w w i p . e www bscribe on lin
r small delicacies
su , s w e i v r e t n i s and e r u t ay in t c i s p , s , r s e e t t p i le s rec w e ive n e c e r , g a m e h ht orld w o t la brouse throug e g d n tr y a s a p e h t h t i w touch SUBSCRIBE ON-LINE
Unique and perfect! The evolution of Multiflex has resulted in the MUL3D, the silicone mould that enables to prepare desserts and monoportions of spherical shape. The versatility of this mould allows to create surprising inserts and effects that make it really unique.
ProPerties of the MULtifLeX 3D MoULD • 100% food safe transparent silicone mouldMade in Italy
• Resistant to temperatures between -60°C and
+230°C
• Provided with a 12x40cm transparent polycarbonate tray
VAntAggi: • Non-stick, easy to unmould • Transparency that allows to recognize the product inside
• Stability of the sphere on the dish, thanks to the flat top of the mould
• Modularity with 30x40 cm and 60x40 cm trays • Easy to blast freeze • Customizable with Siliconflex inserts
MADE IN ITALY
1
2
• Fill the SF005 mould with the first preparation.
3
• Fill part B of the MUL3D mould with the second preparation.
4
RE
GI
ST
ER
D ED
ES
IG
N
A
• Put the preparation of the SF005 Mould. into part B of the MUL3D.
5
• Close up the MUL3D mould with part A.
6
• Fill the MUL3D mould through the hole of part A with the second preparation.
B
Ø 58 Vol. 100 ml + tray 12 x 40 cm 100 ml x 5 tot. 500 ml
• Unmould the preparation of the MUL3D
mould.
Discover the complete range in the professional area:
www.silikomart.com
MUL3D
Via Tagliamento, 78 - 30030 Mellaredo di Pianiga (VE) - Italy Tel. +39 041 5190550 Fax +39 041 5190290
More than a manual, more than a recipe book: “Tradizione in Evoluzione – Arte e Scienza in Pasticceria” (Tradition in Evolution - art and science in pastry making) is the evolution of what in publishing is called a best and long seller, that is the “Manuale della Pasticceria Italiana” (Italian Pastry Maker’s Manual) by Chiriotti Editori. A true encyclopedia of more than 800 pages, written in Italian with intense passion and a profound professionalism by Leonardo Di Carlo
All the basics
OF PASTRY MAKING
After three years of “gestation” we are proud to present “Tradizione in Evoluzione – Arte e Scienza in Pasticceria” (Tradition in Evolution - art and science in pastry making). More than a manual, much more than a recipe book, a real instrument for the workshop to read, read again, consult, underline, comment… Over 800 pages and more of recipes divided into pastry making types, covering all the topics that make handmade pastry making great. A manual, which is exhaustive in every detail in order to make it usable and useful for all. Scientific and technical explanations, in depth practical advice, recipes, variations, merits, defects, schematized processes, notes and tricks all experienced “firsthand” by the author, Leonardo Di Carlo, who wanted to transfer all this experience onto every page, all his studies and experiments. Leo is in fact a professional who is never satisfied with what he already knows, but continues to measure himself against his colleagues on an Italian and international level, including experts in relative fields (from chemistry to biology…), researching books and doing research in the workshop, always searching to satisfy himself and others, first of all the true handmade pastry making being close to his heart, fruit of tradition and evolution, as expressed in the chosen title. A creative approach to a scientific and rigorous pastry making. This professional volume is therefore the result of a complex and reasoned work, because the wish of the author and the editor is that of offering an instrument – we repeat the term because we consider it the best to describe this new book – which every professional, every enthusiast, anyone can personalize, make it their own depending on their needs, tastes, customer re-
Leonardo Di Carlo
arte e scienza in pasticceria CHIRIOTTI EDITORI
To order the book shop@chiriottieditori.it //shop.chiriottieditori.it
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
3
PASTRY quests… All the basics necessary to build a personal path, at the same time emotional and rational, able to increase the knowledge of what one does and how one does it. Today this editorial project is a manual in the true sense of the word, with photos and recipes. A single volume which collects together the notions, in order to simplify the consultation. For more than 30 years, action after action, we have always acted not only for financial ends, but mainly for the good of the sector, and the craftsmen. Not instrumental choices, but ones mediated by the desire to spread culture, to help the sector grow by stimulating, helping and sustaining it. There is a lot more that can be said about this manual, but there is no need to slip into self congratulations. We invite you to read it, to reason it, to use it, to consume it, to turn down the pages, to underline in it, to stain it in the workshop... You can find information about the book and its contents, about the backstage, and also videos and updates about appointments with the author on www.tradizioneinevoluzione.it, the website where the book “comes to life” and evolves over time. Why such a detailed and complete book?
Because it is what I have always dreamt to find on the shelves of the libraries over the world.
Where did you start from?
Custard, and it was hard. I saw an immense thing to do and it seemed unreachable. The most exciting moments of this “gestation”?
The first time I saw the draft of a laid out chapter. It is so different seeing it in print instead of on file. I was really excited and satisfied. The recipe you are most attached to?
The Sacher: just last month I created the 48th version and it makes me happy to make colleagues realize that everything is possible when you have the basics and the knowledge. The confectionary range that you prefer?
All of them, because each time I make a discovery and find new ideas. For example for Carnival I prepared very particular fritters and for me this was a great satisfaction, which encourages me, because it this that people want and I have the possibility to always create a challenge for myself.
How important is and how much of theoretical culture is in the workshop?
A lot, we have limited ourselves to only copying others recipes. And young people are beginning to understand this, and are committing themselves to becoming the masters of their own creations. What is your perfect shop like?
First, it has a shop window that entices the customers to enter, then, who is behind the counter must be educated and motivated to sell a “small dream”. And the perfect workshop?
Logistics and organisation of the work at the highest levels. Three pieces of advice on how to face this
What would you like a young person to learn
slump.
from this book?
It will seem banal, but invest in the quality (with a price war, you can close down), keep yourself up to date and see new opportunities every morning.
That what I was missing at the beginning, that is, serious basics and the “why” the ingredients, once assembled, behave in a certain way.
Your three most obvious qualities.
Why did you decide to become a pastry chef?
Passion, warmth, simplicity. Your most obvious three defects.
A tremendous effort, but a great satisfaction. All that you give away, will come back to you!
Partly it was decided by my destiny and partly by my artistic streak, the scholastic path of my education and my inclination to communicate.
Why should we buy it?
What does it mean to be an artisan today?
Because “I” really wrote it with the intent to simplify and make the most complex notions immediately understandable.
To aim at quality and uniqueness, because the competition from large industries is very strong. And to also become businessmen to all intents and purposes in order to survive our economic system.
What does it mean writing a professional manual?
How much time have you dedicated to it?
To tell the truth, I made the first draft in 2006,
4
then, reasoning and maturing, more than three years.
Touchy, “prima donna”, fussy. Your favourite sweet.
A well cooked millefeuille with very little cream, so tasty, so much for diets! Your secret dream.
I am not saying, otherwise it brings bad luck! What would you like to do when you grow up?
... There’s still time to grow up!
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
L.C.
The only machine on the market capable of: blending, mixing, whipping, cutting, kneading, heating, cooking, maintaining, tempering, cooling, chilling and freezing
• Thermo-conducting liquid, in circulation, ensures better control of temperature and homogeneous heat • Quick cooling reduces the weight loss and preserves the natural colours, fragrances and flavours of the products • Quick chilling of the food product never handled until the vacuum bag (hygiene levels guaranteed) • Programmable temperature range between -15°C ÷ +110°C • Programmable heating/ cooking time from 1 to 999 minutes • Variable mixing speed between 10 and 500 rpm. Rotation of the components in both directions
TELME S.p.A Via S. Pertini, 10 26845 Codogno (LO), Italy Tel. +39 0377 466660 Fax +39 0377 466690 telme@telme.it www.telme.it www.ribot1000recipes.com
NEWS
PIERRE’S GARDENS
The synergy for chocolate K24 Evo by Bravo is a new continuous tempering machine provided with all the fundamental accessories, i.e. a belt for partial or total covering with a release system for washing, and a flat vibrating table with heated and inclined sides to facilitate chocolate dripping. In addition to the advanced software that manages 8 automatic programs, K24 Evo also offers: thermic selfbalancing, an automatic control system to check temperature depending on the quantity of product in the machine; temperature control, new generation probes working with 1/10 of degree accuracy and keeping steady temperature at the heart of chocolate; sheet resistance heating system, ensuring a precise chocolate temperature control. The multi-functional Trittico Executive can also work as a cycle tempering machine, making a complete cycle every 30 minutes in its upper tank, from which tempered chocolate can be extracted through a patented chute, without making the freezing cylinder dirty and avoiding any waste. Therefore the machine – which is provided by two tanks that can work indipendently together – is also fit to produce flavoured ganache creams for fillings (pistachio, hazelnut, coconut...), spicy chocolate, products with chopped dried fruit... The advantages in chocolate making that derive from the synergy of Trittico Executive and K24 Evo are in terms of organization of the production site and production growth. For example, while K24 Evo is covering with dark chocolate, Trittico Executive can be used for producing ganache and, due to its speed and automatism, for managing the entire production cycle of milk and white chocolate. Bravo presented K24 Evo to the Asian market in April, during Food&Hotel Asia in Singapore, where the chefs of the Trittico Club team performed nonstop live demos. Moreover, Bravo was also the silver sponsor of the Asian Pastry Cup, a live competition that culminated in the pre-selection of the Asian teams which will compete at the World Pastry Cup 2013 in Lyon (France) and which was won by the Australian team. In May Bravo moved to Chicago at the NRA Show, where the chefs of the French Pastry School used Trittico Executive for the making of gelato and pastry desserts. www.bravo.it
6
w.piww
extra
om e .c
More pictures on
ww
With Infiniment Jardin, the delicy of the unparalleled macarons by Pierre Hermé expresses itself into ad ideal walk through enchanted gardens, where the abundance of aromas ad perfumes transforms itself into uncommon taste matches. Every month since February a new macaron of this original collection has been launched in Paris, and the next ones will be Jardin d’Eden, basil and vanilla, in July; Jardin d’été, lemon and caramelized fennel, in August; Jardin Sauvage, chocolate and lime, in September; Jardin Oriental, orange flower, rose and ginger, in October; Jardin d’Antan, violet and anise, in November. www.pierreherme.com Jardin Oriental (on the left) and Jardin d’Antan, the macarons that will be launched respectively in October and November by Pierre Hermé.
SIGEP 2013 ANTICIPATES TRENDS AND MULTIPLIES BUSINESS ALL OVER THE WORLD Sigep, the international expo of artisan gelato, pastry, confectionery and bakery production, will be held at Rimini Fiera from January 19th to 23rd together with A.B. Tech Expo, the 3rd international expo of technologies and products for bakery, pastry and confectionery which was acquired by Rimini Fiera, thus further strengthening the bakery production chain. Young pastry chefs from five continents will compete in the Junior Pastry World Cup, a showcase in which the world’s pastry art talents will show their skill on the theme “The circus of the future”. At the international contest The Star of Sugar, sugar artists from all over the world will present their sculptures on “The clown girl”. The five winning nations of the previous editions of the Sigep Bread Cup (Italy, Germany, Israel, United States and Hungary) will take part in the Golden Bread Cup with their performances and traditional recipes, inspiring a fascinating journey through the tradition of bread all over the world. Alongside there will also be Sigep Gelato d’Oro, selecting the members of the Italian team that will take part in the next Gelato World Cup; the Junior and Senior Italian Pastry Championships, the Italian selection for the World Chocolate Masters, as well as events highlighting gelato as a healthy product and all the contests for identifying and showcasing trend-setting flavours. There will once again be the Cake Design Forum, with the formula that will combine a first vote via the web and the final stage of the exhibition of trend-setting cakes directly at Rimini. Moreover, there will be events connected with the world of coffee with the Italian Barista Championships for the world finals of the WBC (World Barista Championship), WLA (World Latte Art Championship) and WCS (World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship). www.sigep.it - www.abtechexpo.it
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
Elegance milk
Member of:
dobla.com
INTERVIEW
An interview with Gino Fabbri, conscious professional, highly appreciated for his empathy and equilibrium, values, which are important these days in order to be optimistic. Gino is the owner of a pastry store, having the same name, in Bologna and president of the Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani
Thoughts on the
CRISIS
What is the attitude of the consumers towards the pastry store in this economical situation? The sales of our products are subject to fluctuations, however we have an advantage over other sectors, because pastries are seen as a form of gratification and therefore, in these sad times, people feel the need to gratify themselves and we fulfill this role. A pastry rather than a praline, as well as a croissant which has just come out of the oven are gratifying and help to face the day in a better way.
8
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
As a pastry chef, head of an artisan activity, what advice can you give to colleagues to develop their activity and to assert themselves on the market irrespective of the present economic cycle? I think it is right and honest to try as much as possible to offer what the customer expects from us. Any pastry chef is, in turn, a customer in another sector and we should behave as we would like others to behave towards us, that is, finding the right quality-price ratio. Many artisans work in a better way compared to an industrial level because they can
afford to offer fresh raw materials, without preservatives. We have to hold high the offer of haute patisserie because the better we work, the more we all work. A programme, therefore, of a high standard and which is engaging. These are small things which are important for the customers. At this moment in time I would advise my colleagues to make a right evaluation, and balance the choices of production. Advice for young chefs? To the younger generations I would say to be determined in choosing the best, otherwise it will not be only their activity that will be damaged but all the category.
Do you think it will be necessary to retouch prices? As I was saying before, our products may be bought because they represent gratification, but how much do they cost? We are all selling at a lower cost if we compare it to the prices of the fifties and sixties; if we make a comparison we should sell at higher prices. The problem is staying within overhead costs without increasing the prices. Fifty years ago there were not many cake shops in Bologna, therefore the competition was less fierce. Today the industrial quality of any typology, mainly long life products, is high and the price is lower than what an ar-
PREZIOSO petits gâteaux Pistachio Emmanuel
Raspberry gelatine
for 3 sheets
pasteurized mixed eggs trimoline flour 0 W 200-220 icing sugar chemical yeast green food colouring salt milk butter pistachio paste
1 for 11-12 fillings diameter 18 cm (60 for inside)
g g g g g g g g g g
Qty 370 600 370 180 16 3 4 120 300 250
% 16.72 27.11 16.72 8.13 0.72 0.14 0.18 5.42 13.56 11.30
Melt the butter. Sift the flour, icing sugar, salt and yeast powder together. Mix the eggs, inverted sugar, and pistachio paste together in a planetary mixer or robot. Then add the sifted flour, milk and butter melted to 45°48°C (the temperature is very important) and the colouring. Leave to rest overnight before using. Spread thinly on a silicone sheet to cook. Place in an oven at 220°-230°C for 6-8 minutes with valve closed.
Cream-ricotta cheese cream for 10 sweets Ø 20 cm
cream sugar orange honey gelatine leaves ricotta cheese cream
Qty g 1,124 g 900 g 450 g 76 g 1,124 g 1,876
% 54.05 16.22 8.11 1,37 20.25 54.05
Heat the cream with the sugar and honey. Add the softened and well squeezed gelatine. Pour over the ricotta cheese and emulsify in a mixer. Heat to a temperature of 28°C and add the partially whipped cream.
sugar sugared raspberry puree 10% sugar pectin x58 alginate
g g g g g
Qty 125 625 63 9 5
% 22.73 75.57 22.73 1.09 0.60
g g g g g g g
Qty 777 466 435 497 466 7 310
% 26.27 15.75 14.71 16.80 15.75 0.24 10.48
Mix the sugar with the pectin and alginate. Bring the raspberry puree and the sugar to the boil in a saucepan. Remove from the heat and spread on a sheet. This can be used for fillings, cubes or other.
Orange cream for filling
for 10 fillings Ø 18 cm with gelatine
orange juice sugar pasteurized egg yolks pasteurized eggs butter gelatine leaves candied orange in cubes
Soften and squeeze out the gelatine Liquidize the candied orange cubes until they are pureed. Add all the ingredients except the butter. Continuing to stir, bring slowly to the boil to obtain a gelatinous consistency. When the mixture has cooled down to around 35°-40°C add the butter and emulsify in a mixer. Pour or put into round mold and freeze.
Assembly
For the filling: first put a layer of gelatine, then the orange cream and lastly the Emmanuel. Turn over and use this frozen filling as the base of the sweet. Pour the cream-ricotta cheese cream, then a chocolate sheet, more cream, a layer of Emmanuel and finish off with the cream. Cool quickly and store. Remove from the conserver when you want to prepare it for window display, spraying with butter and cocoa and white chocolate. Decorate according to the filling of the sweet.
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
9
INTERVIEW
tisan can charge, even though he makes marvelous products but with a higher cost, therefore in order to be competitive he must give something more. Practical examples? If the artisan, in order to lower costs, reduces the quality of the raw materials, the result will be a mediocre product and in any case with a higher price compared to an industrially produced product. Therefore the level of quality must never be lowered looking for cheaper raw materials at the expense of excellence. The problem is the transport costs that have an important impact on everything, from the workforce to the accessories, to the paper... But I must not reduce the quality of the product itself. If less customers enter the shop, the important thing is to offer always the best, also
because this trend is cyclic and sooner or later it will change. Furthermore we know that, if we increase prices considerably we lose customers and it is very hard to win them back. How have you gone through this cyclic pattern? In the 70‘s, there was a considerable reduction in consumption but once this passed everyone was more optimistic. Now this is not so. It was possible to see a better future then, one knew that once that period had passed people would have started buying again, today we look around and we do not know where to look, the uneasiness can be felt. And what considerations come to mind? We older pastry chefs must be the testimo-
THE AMPI MEETING Last March Cast Alimenti school in Brescia hosted the 19th edition of the Simposio Tecnico AMPI, an event which, every year, reunites all the associates of the Italian Pastry Chef Academy over three days punctuated by technical lessons, speeches from experts coming from the world of industry, studies of topics of common interest and exams for the new candidates. The aim of the meeting is to stimulate a constructive comparison between colleagues in order to increase and widen the knowledge in techniques, products and ingredients. The most eagerly-awaited moment is, as always, that of the exams, which include a theoretical part, during which the Committee assesses the technical knowledge of the candidates on various topics of pastry making, and a practical test, based on the preparation of six cakes plus a pièce characterized by the use of the various decoration techniques. Out of the 7 candidates who went in for the exam, the following people passed: Diego Crosara, Gianluca Fusto, Davide Malizia, Ernst Knam (l’Antica Arte del Dolce in Milan), Giovanni Cavalleri (Pasticceria Roberto at Erbusco, Bs) and Riccardo Patalani (Pasticceria Patalani in Viareggio). www.ampiweb.it
QUALITY FROM SICILY Duegi Dolciaria from Modica, near Ragusa, is a leading Italian society producing semi-manufactured items for confectionery, gelato and ho.re.ca. The focus is on the quality of their range, which is obtained using innovative food technology, in order to provide new taste experiences. They have recently launched the new brand Glamhour, i.e. three collections of delicacies representing the mix between flavour and style. Sweet Glamhour is a sweet line for the clients wishing to show the finest displays in their confectionery stores; Happy Glamhour is a finger food products line for happy hours; Ice Glamhour is intended for gelato making and it includes cookies and sprinkles for decoration. Duegi’s large range of products, solutions, services and specialized staff make it a reliable partner for professionals looking for quality. www.duegidolciaria.com
10
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
nial for the new generations of professionals, in order to have a handover that takes into account the quality and traditions. The Italian pastry chefs must react proposing and perhaps rediscovering in a modern way, pastry making with a local taste. We must remember that, here in Italy, we have the best raw materials in the world, such as hazelnuts, almonds, citrus fruit and pistachios. The pride in what we are and our origins, therefore? Tradition is not just something old, but could be the new Italian strategy of trends towards a future that can be successful if managed using our heads, using excellent products without having any doubts or hesitation, but living and acting with determination and being proactive, both towards the customer and the market.
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
11
INTERVIEW
COFFEECREAM for 10 sweets Ø 20 cm
Coffee syrup
Zabaione cream with white chocolate Qty egg yolks g 252 wine g 252 sugar g 504 gelatine leaves g 15 white chocolate g 315 cream g 1,260
water sugar Kenia Camel coffee 40% Vol.
% 9.70 9.70 19.40 0.58 12.12 48.50
Prepare a syrup with the wine and sugar. Mix together the cooled syrup and the yolks and heat to a temperature of 82°-84°C. Whisk until cold, add half of the gelatine, which has been softened and melted. Melt the chocolate at a temperature of 40°-45°C and add to the whipped mixture. Fold in the lightly whipped cream and pour into a round mold.
Coffee gelatine for filling water sugar agar-agar E 406 gelatine leaves freeze-dried coffee sponge for rolling prepared coffee for moistening
Qty g 1,140 g 340 g 14 g 14 g 114
% 70.28 20.96 0.86 0.86 7.03 as required as required
Mix sugar and agar-agar. Bring water to the boil, adding half of the mixture prepared. When it comes to the boil, remove from heat and add the coffee and softened gelatin. Cool until it reaches a temperature of 26°C before pouring into the round molds already prepared on the Silpat (130 for each round mold). Place a mold to divide on top and moisten slightly with the coffee.
Sponge for rolls almond paste 70% pasteurized egg whites melted butter inverted sugar
Qty g 1,000 g 400 g 300 g 100
% 55.56 22.22 16.67 5.56
NEWS
In a planetary mixer beat the raw almond paste, thin a little at a time with the liquid egg whites and the inverted sugar. When the mixture is lightly whipped and smooth, add the hot melted butter and then beat. Spread on sheets and bake with valve closed at 180°-190°C. Each sheet weighs 800-1,300 g.
12
Qty g 2,200 g 3,100 g 2,000
% 30.14 42.47 27.40
Qty g 126 g 100 g 20 g 378 g 15 g 378 g 1,512
% 4.98 3.95 0.79 14.95 0.59 14.95 59.79
Qty 300 200 60 170 400 70
% 25 16.67 5 14.17 33.33 5.83
Bring the water and sugar to the boil and when cooled add the liqueur.
Coffee Bavarian cream egg yolks sugar freeze-dried coffee milk gelatine leaves milk chocolate cream
Dissolve the coffee in the yolks and add the sugar. Heat the milk, pour onto the mixture and cook at a temperature of 82°-84°C. Add the softened gelatine and pour onto the chocolate, mix using a minipimer. Cool down to a temperature of 28°-30°C and add the lightly whipped cream. Pour into round molds.
Coffee brittle almond praline 50% almond paste 100% coffee paste dark chocolate 70% cocoa wafer flakes melted butter
g g g g g g
Mix the pastes together, add the chocolate and then the wafer. Mix well, add the butter, mix and spread out between two sheets of greaseproof paper 600 g in weight. Cool in the freezer; cut out circles 18 cm in diameter, use when needed.
Assembly
Starting from the base, take a round of sponge and place a round circle of brittle on top. Pour on the Coffee Bavarian cream up to half of the round and place a filling of gelatine and sponge. Finish off the round with the white chocolate zabaione cream.
Soft gelato enters the pastry shop EVD is a soft-serve gelato machine by Carpigiani which stands out for its modern design, elegant shape, and intuitive use of lights. Industry professionals who have tried it along with master instructors from Carpigiani Gelato University have been favourably impressed by its potential and innovative features. EVD is ergonomic, versatile, dynamic, and it provides its own working space, thanks to a generous counter space and a storage cabinet incorporated into the machine itself. Today it is possible to create innovative soft-serve products, such as large, decorated gelato cakes, gelato sandwiches of all kinds, and an endless variety of gelato and semifreddo snacks. All can be produced quickly while maintaining a clean working area. EVD features cylinders with independent, dedicated motors, to obtain different types of product at the same time, like gelato, sorbet, yogurt, and semifreddo. The machine boasts a dispensing head that moves up and down to make it easy for the operator to fill and clean the hopper. As soon as its work has been completed in the production area, it can be easily moved out among customers. A strategically placed machine offers self-serve new gelato and pastry options, increasing profits and encouraging return visits. www.carpigiani.com - www.gelatouniversity.com
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
Gino Fabbri Bologna www.ginofabbripasticcere.it photos Giancarlo Bononi
Approved Event
THE QUEEN OF PASTRY
The Italian pastry chef Sonia Balacchi was the winner of the first edition of The Pastry Queen, the competition reserved to women professionals which took place in Rimini last January during Sigep. Balacchi was followed by Kyung-Ran Baccon, France, and Susan Notter, Usa. Each contestant had to prepare a chocolate entremets, a plated dessert with a fruit sorbet, a sugar and pastillage work and a dessert served in a glass. Here is the winner’s chocolate entremets, which is inspired to the figure of the mythological aethiopian queen Cassiopeia, a symbol of female beauty and vanity.
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
15
PASTRY
CASSIOPEA entremets Chocolate roll pasteurized egg yolks granulated sugar invert sugar fresh egg whites granulated sugar dried egg whites weak flour rice starch cocoa powder dark chocolate 62% fresh butter 82%
g g g g g g g g g g g
Chocolate creamy milk chocolate 36% hazelnut paste custard gelatine golden sheets 150B
150 70 30 180 60 1 35 25 20 90 80
g g g g
225 170 200 45
g n. g
1.5 1 25
Custard fresh cream 35% fresh whole milk pasteurized egg yolks granulated sugar rice starch
g g g g g
430 650 320 160 18
383 56 383
g
6.8
Put the milk chocolate drops, hazelnut paste and rehydrated gelatin in a bowl. Pour the hot custard and emulsify to obtain a creamy, smooth and shiny mixture.
In a planetary mixer mount the yolks with sugar and invert sugar. In another bowl whisk the whites with sugar and the dried egg whites. Stir the yolks and the melted butter into chocolate, alternating with one half of the whites and mix gently the sieved powders. Complete the roll incorporating the other half of the whites. Form two rolls on two baking sheets using 375 g of the mass, spreading it evenly with a theraplette. Bake at 250°C for three minutes in a fan oven.
Almond crunchy fresh soft butter 82% sliced white almonds granulated sugar weak flour salt (in a solution with 5 g of water) Tahiti vanilla pod dry glucose 38DE
g g g
Mix the ingredients in a planetary mixer with leaf, spread the mixture at 3 mm of thickness. Bake at 170°C for about 15 minutes in a fan oven.
Mix the yolks with the sugar and starch. Bring the milk and cream to a boil and pour over the yolks a little at a time. Bake at 80°C.
Strawberry and raspberry jelly raspberry pulp g Perigord strawberry pulp g caster sugar g gelatine golden sheets 150B g
282 470 113 22.6
Mix the fruit pulp with sugar and heat at 30°C. Add the rehydrated gelatine to a part of the pulps and heat at 60°C. Combine and mix.
Tiramisù cream mascarpone fresh cream 35% custard espresso coffee granulated sugar invert sugar gelatine golden sheets 150B dextrose
g g g g g g
500 100 165 13 50 20
g g
7 10
Stir the warm custard with coffee, sugar and rehydrated gelatine. At 30°C add the mascarpone and the cream, stirring until the mixture is smooth and homogeneous.
Passion fruit caramel toffee Isomalt g granulated sugar g fresh cream 35% g fresh butter 82% g Himalayan pink salt g passion fruit pulp g Tahiti vanilla pod n. gelatine golden sheets 150B g
153 115 48 48 1.3 128 1 9
In a saucepan melt the Isomalt and sugar and caramelize until the desired color. Add the hot cream with passion fruit, vanilla and salt. Add the rehydrated gelatine. Strain and incorporate the butter at 35°C, emulsifying with the mixer.
Dark chocolate mousse custard g dark chocolate 72% g fresh cream 35% m.g. g
302 270 402
Pour the boiling custard on the dark chocolate drops and emulsify to obtain a creamy, smooth and shiny mixture. When the ganache is at 30°C, pour the whipped cream.
Caramel icing granulated sugar glucose syrup 62DE fresh cream 35% Tahiti vanilla pods milk chocolate 36% gelatine golden sheets 150B lemon juice
g g g n. g
525 405 600 2 150
g g
30 3
In a saucepan melt the glucose syrup and sugar; caramelize to obtain the desired colour. Add the hot cream with vanilla and lemon. Add the rehydrated gelatine and pour on the milk chocolate drops. Emulsify to obtain a smooth and creamy mixture. Sonia Balacchi photos Fiera Rimini
16
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
NEWS
ALL IN ONE With Multi Fresh Irinox has brought together multiple functions in one product, allowing the user to manage not only chilling and freezing processes, but also proofing and thawing. It features controlled thawing cycles, giving the possibility to set time when products must be ready for retail. The fast thawing cycle restores frozen products to positive temperature through a combination of temperature and ventilation, it does not damage the texture of food and keeps the organoleptic characteristics intact. The 4 confectionery thawing cycles are intended for miniature pastries, which have to be put on display or sliced, for baked products and gelato. For example, Multi Fresh can take miniature pastries to -2°C, which is the suitable display temperature, or to -12°C, which is the ideal temperature for flawless slicing. Multi Fresh features special controlled proofing cycles, preserving the deep taste, delicate texture, right crispness, digestibility and above all extended freshness over time of bread and other leavened products. It ensures the ideal proofing and holding cycle (for example at night) for leavened products, until the right moment for baking. With Multi Fresh the professional can choose the exact moment to have the product perfectly leavened and ready for baking. Multi Fresh has more than 90 dynamic cycles for different specialities (e.g. pies, croissants, pastry dough, mousses, creams...). The right temperature, air speed, ventilation, moisture, optimum chilling and freezing times for each food type have been carefully studied, and a large number of innovative and patented features have been added, such as Multisensor, a probe equipped with multiple food temperature sensing points; MultiRack, a tray rack suited to any environment (pastry, catering, etc...) that can be adjusted in terms of length and width; Sanigen, an active ion sanitization system which guarantees total sanitization of the work chamber, food and utensils as it works through the air, reaching the most inaccessible, hard to clean areas and making dirt "inactive". www.irinox.com
The Relais Desserts in Alsace In April 22-25 the Relais Desserts International met in Mulhouse, Alsace, in the northeast of France, on the occasion of Rencontres Internationales Relais Desserts. Their public meeting was organised by Michel and Patricia Bannwarth of Pâtisserie Jacques (www.patisserie-jacques.com). They spent three days of professional exchange and visits and also organized a cocktail party at the local Cité de l'Automobile (http://citedelautomobile.com/fr/home), one of the biggest car museums in the world, where they welcomed 1.400 guests. The Italian members – Iginio Massari, Luigi Biasetto and Giovanni Pina – were present together with Gino Fabbri, the president of Accademia Pasticceri Italiani, as a guest of honour. www.relais-desserts.net
Italians for Lyons Originally conceived by the French MOF Gabriel Paillasson, the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie has been a reference event for pastry worldwide since 1989, revealing new talents and trends. The last Italian selection phase took place in January during Sigep exhibition and the winners among 9 candidates were Francesco Boccia (chocolate), Marcello Boccia (sugar) and Riccardo Patalani (ice). The three young professionals will represent Italy in Lyon, and they are now working hard to face the most important pastry competition in the world, which will take place the 27 and 28 January 2013 involving 22 countries. They are supported by the Club Coupe du Monde-Selezione Italia and a group of sponsors (below), the members of the Italian teams which participated in the last editions of the Coupe are also helping them during their practise. ww.cmpatisserie.com
18
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
“I am serious and motivated, with the desire to raise my profession to the highest levels of excellence and quality”: these are the words with which the talented young Frenchman Bastien Blanc-Tailleur loves to use when presenting himself, words which sum up his ability and personality. We interviewed this twenty-year old Frenchman, now working at the prestigious Café Carette in Paris, who is in love with pastry making and, in particular, with sugar art, which he develops with a style that is personal, mixed with artistic cross references
A QUESTION OF STYLE When did you realise you wanted to become a pastry chef? Very early on. As a child I liked cooking and, in particular, anything to do with sweets. My grandmother was a very good cook and I loved her desserts and jams. So when I had to decide what to study, little by little I realised that I could only work in confectionery. It was hard because I do not come from a family of pastry chefs and I had to convince my parents in order to follow this path. How did you arrive at the Maison Pillon in Toulouse and what did you do there? My previous boss suggested I work there. I remained in Toulouse for three years, two years for my apprenticeship and one year as a chef de poste. I was in charge of the special orders, the pièce monté, the bases and the production of sugar decorations. However, since I didn’t need to dedicate all my time to this, I also dealt with the production of small cakes, together with a colleague. Instead now you have moved to the capital. Tell us about the Café Carette and your duties. What does working in Paris mean to you? The Café Carette is a famous tearoom in the capital. The first one was opened in Place du Trocadero, right in front of the Eiffel Tower, and another tearoom has been opened recently in the romantic Place des Vosges. I have been working there for a few months and I am continuing with my professional training, learning new organization and work methods. The sweets are very beautiful, delicious, made with attention to detail and it is a great pleasure for me to participate in this adventure. I wanted to move for more than a year, but I put off moving in order to remain a little longer in Toulouse and to consolidate what I had learned
19
SUGAR there. Paris remains the capital of the sweet-toothed and it is almost an inevitable passage for all those who wish to come into contact with the big maison. It gives a certain prestige, even if it is not everything... You have taken part in several competitions, with gratifying results, such as the 1st edition of the S.G. Sender Trophy in Lille, in 2010, in which you were awarded first place both for the tasting and for the pièce in sugar. How did you arrive at the decision to put yourself to the test? These competitions are an excellent means to overcome ones limits. Moreover, at a certain point, it became important to me to compare myself with other professionals, in
order to grow. It took an enormous effort to prepare for the competitions, sometimes at the expense of my personal life, but this was a necessary sacrifice. Yours is a very elegant style, with an oriental imprint. Where do you get your inspiration from? I get a lot of inspiration from Oriental art and from what I see around me. What follows is the fruits of my elaboration. I read as much as possible about different styles, with a present preference for Art Nouveau. I am always trying to find new forms in order to move away from the well trodden paths and to assert my own style. Which are the techniques that you prefer? Pulled sugar, even if I am certain that there
are still many aspects to be explored as regards the techniques of cast and blown sugar. Who are the professionals that you admire? There are many. I really like what Stéphane Leroux does from an artistic point of view and I am fascinated by the works in sugar and chocolate that can be admired on occasion of the competitions held in Asia, for example Hofex or the Japan Cake Show. In France we are lucky to have numerous excellent professionals who bring prestige to this profession. I am a fan of the Tarte Vanille by Pierre Hermé, of the verrine of the Parisian confectioner’s Pain de Sucre and of course the cakes of Sadaharu Aoki...
For small delicacies Bigatton produces high quality ingredients not only for gelato makers but also for confectioners, offering a wide choice of products intended for professionals, thus helping them to quicken their work. The company located in Portogruaro, near Venice, exports all over the world and their products can be used anytime: the cannolo and copite line can serve as base products for the making of mousses, creams, chantilly and other small delicacies. Their wafer cannolo is a market leader product combining wafer crunchiness with chocolate delightfulness. www.bigatton.com
20
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
SUGAR In 2008 Bastien made his debut in the world of competitions, developing the artistic side of his profession and acquiring the skill of working sugar. His artistic work distinguishes itself for its elegance and clean lines, with a preference for floral motifs and stylization, inspired by the orient and Art Nouveau. Rève Bleu is the title of the work that opens the article. http://bastienpatisserie.over-blog.org
How do you see the future of your profession in general? I am sure that the profession of pastry chef has a positive future, even if it will be necessary to play the card of luxury in order to stand out and to present products of excellent quality. There are still many avenues to explore and the present spirit of emulation which is around the mĂŠtiers de bouche is the proof. C.Q.
22
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
GELATO
RICE, MILK AND CHESTNUTS Rice gelato, chestnut sauce, Parmigiano cheese, puffed rice and Parma ham Vialone nano veronese rice g 200 milk l 1
Boil the milk and rice together and cook for approx. 40 minutes. Liquidize and put to one side.
Rice gelato saccharose dextrose carob rice base milk Piedmont hazelnut oil
g g g g l g
300 50 10 500 1 10
Chocolate puffed rice cocoa powder Vialone nano rice water salt sugar
g g l g g
100 200 1 5 5
Warm the milk to 40°C, add the powders and pasteurize. Leave to rest for 12 hours, then whip and pour into desired molds. If asses’ milk is used, add the hazelnut oil while whipping the gelato.
Cook the rice with all the ingredients for 30 minutes, drain and then dry at a temperature of 50°C for 15 minutes. Fry in hot oil and put to one side.
Milk and chestnut sauce dried chestnuts g 500 milk l 1 Parmigiano cheese as required Parma ham as required
Soak the chestnuts overnight in cold water. In a saucepan fry the Parma ham, then, add the chestnuts and milk. Cook. Sieve and flavour with the Parmigiano cheese. Leave to cool and put to one side.
Assembly
rice gelato chocolate puffed rice milk chestnut and Parmigiano sauce Parma ham Place the rice gelato on a soup plate, add the puffed rice and the Parma ham. Serve the milk, chestnut and Parmigiano sauce at a temperature of 20°C. Alberto Marchetti Gelateria Marchetti, Turin Igor Macchia La Credenza, San Maurizio Canavese, To www.albertomarchetti.it www.ristorantelacredenza.it Photos Stefano Fusaro and Bob Noto
26
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
www.sgsm.it
Tunnel Coating line 400/800
www.selmi-group.it Via Statale, 151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN - Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 - info@selmi-group.it
The Italian team won the Gelato World Cup, which took place in Rimini in January during the last edition of Sigep. They were followed by France and Switzerland, and the 13 competing teams were required to develop the theme "The fruits of the Earth and Sea" through an ice sculpture, a gourmet gelato specialty, a plated dessert, a tub, a cone, a decorated cup, a chocolate sculpture, an entremets and a final Grand Buffet. The following appetizer recipe represents a celebration of Italian cuisine and an original gastronomic interpretation of national flavours and colours
Gelato on top
OF THE WORLD ITALIANappetizer PORTRAIT Bread gelato water dextrose milk proteine fruit base bread salt extra virgin oil fresh origanum, salt
g g g g g g g g
1839 120 120 30 30 360 6 120
Toast the bread and pass it into the refiner. Prepare the mixture without bread and let it stand 30 minutes. Pasteurize at 85°C. Combine the bread and origanum, micronise and blend the mixture in the gelato machine.
Tomato gelato pomodorini del piennolo ‘e curti* g 2000 datterino tomatoes g 1000 polyfloral honey g 100 granulated sugar g 60 salt g 30 garlic g 3 Sarawak pepper, fresh thyme, grated lemon peel
dextrose glucose texture improver fruit base Maldon salt
g g g g g
60 100 30 10 1
Mix the dry ingredients and micronise them with the liquids for 2 minutes. Keep the mixture in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Bring it to 70°C, then cool to 10°C and micronise for 2 minutes. Blend it in the gelato machine. In Campania, since mid-nineteenth century there have been several cultivars of pomodorini, but the most famous are the ones growing on the slopes of Vesuvius. The category pomodorino del piennolo includes many biotypes selected through decades by local farmers, who have given them colourful denominations. It’s an oval-shaped fruit with a pointed apex tip and frequent ribbing on the peduncular part, a vermilion red thick skin, a weight not exceeding 25 g, a red pulp of high consistence, a lively, intense, sweet and sour taste. The peculiarity is their antique conserving practise called al piennolo, i.e. ripe tomatoes are tied together in bunches forming big clusters, which are hanged at the roofs of rural farm houses.
White tomato jelly beefsteak tomatoes salt
g g
1000 10
g g
250 4
Wash the tomatoes and marinate them with the other ingredients. Bake at 100°C for about 90 minutes. Sift.
Clean the tomatoes and mix them 2 minutes with the salt. Place in a sieve and let them drain for 3 hours. Freeze the liquid, mix it and place in a strainer with paper. Keep the water.
tomato juice water trehalose
tomato water agar agar salt
g g g
650 89 40
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
29
GELATO Mix agar agar with 100 dl of tomato water, then bring it to a boil. Combine the other water and salt. Put in molds and in the refrigerator until use. Warm in the oven at 70°C before serving.
Glacier lettuce glacier lettuce extra virgin olive oil lemon juice grated lemon peel sugar Maldon salt Sarawak white pepper
g g g g g g
200 50 20 5 10 2
Wash the salad carefully. Mix the remaining ingredients and pass it to the chinoise. Dress the salad using a nebulizer.
Buffalo ricotta cheese buffalo ricotta Maldon salt, Sarawak white pepper gelatine mozzarella cheese whey egg whites
g
250
g g g
2 50 20
Mix the buffalo ricotta cheese with gelatine, mozzarella cheese whey, salt and pepper. Put the mixture in molds and after in the blast chiller. Bake ricotta at 180°C when serving it.
Basil macarons almond powder icing sugar egg whites centrifuged basil
g g g
300 300 110
Put in the robot coupe the almond powder and icing sugar. Sieve the mixture, add the whites and the centrifuged basil.
egg whites granulated sugar water
g g g
110 30 + 300 100
Bring 300 g of sugar and water at 110°C. Pour over the whites lightly whisked with 30 g of sugar. Whisk until 32°C. Add the meringue to the first mixture. Spread on a silicone baking sheet and bake about 14 minutes with open valve.
Eggplant Parmigiana fresh eggplants salt tapenade of taggiasche olives miso rice vinegar water sugar extra virgin olive oil Parmigiano Reggiano buffalo mozzarella green basil Sarawak dark red pepper Maldon salt
g
500
g g g g g g g g
40 40 20 10 30 30 50 50
Wash and peel the eggplants, cut them into slices and add the salt. Let them dry for 2 hours, then cut into small cubes. Cook the cubes with all the ingredients for about 1 hour, except the Parmigiano Reggiano and the buffalo mozzarella. Add the cheeses, salt and pepper. Bring to 90°C before serving. Parmigiana (a short form of Parmigiana di melanzane) is an Italian dish made with a shallow-fried sliced filling, layered with cheese and tomato sauce, then baked. Parmigiana made with a filling of eggplant (aubergine) is
30
the earliest version. In addition to the original recipe, many variations are found most often in countries where large numbers of Italians immigrated. While parmigiana usually means "from Parma", a town in Northern Italy, the dish is not part of the cuisine of Parma, but is a Southern Italian dish (claimed by both Campania and Sicily).
Salted sablé with taggiasche olives salted butter tapenade of taggiasche olives trehalose sucrose flour hazelnut flour salt
g g g g g g g
60 50 60 40 100 100 3
Mix all ingredients to obtain a sablé. Put in refrigerator until use. Spread it out to a thickness of 1 mm. Then cut it into 7 mm x 3 cm pieces and bake at 170°C. Tapenade is a Provençal specialty consisting of puréed or finely chopped olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil. Its name comes from the Provençal word for capers, tapenas, and it is a popular food in the south of France, where it is generally eaten as an hors d’œuvre, spread on bread.
Marinated red prawns in breadcrumb crust red prawns n. extra virgin olive oil g basil g salt g grated lemon peel g flour g eggs n. breadcrumbs g Maldon salt
30 50 10 3 15 100 5 100
Clean the prawns and put them under vacuum with extra virgin olive oil, basil, salt and lemon peel for about 3 hours. Cut them in half and leave the inner end. Roll them in flour first, then into eggs and breadcrumbs. Fry them in cocoa butter until golden. Add salt and pepper.
Caper crispy rice flour melted butter egg whites dried capers sugar
g g g g g
50 50 30 30 150
n. g g g
1 70 100 150
Mix the dried capers with sugar and mix them with the other ingredients. Let them rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Spread out a thin layer of caper mixture on Silpat using a spatula. Bake at 160°C until golden and form a spiral.
Confit and lemon oil lemon sugar water extra virgin olive oil Maldon salt
Peel the rind of the lemon with a potato peeler, then cut it into julienne strips. Make a syrup with sugar, water and lemon strips, and cook about 20 minutes. Leave the peel in syrup for 1 hour. Emulsify the extra virgin olive oil with 30 ml of lemon syrup, the juice of 1 lemon and Maldon salt.
Black olive oil extra virgin olive oil taggiasche olives
g g
100 50
arbutus honey
g
30
(dried in a oven at 60°C for 24 hours) Emulsify all the ingredients.
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
Basil sorbet water white cane sugar dextrose glucose trehalose inulin fruit base fresh basil white cane sugar lemon juice
g g g g g g g g g g
1665 45 90 240 210 30 30 300 300 90
g n. g g
100 15 500 20
Prepare the mixture without basil and lemon. Let it rest at least 30 minutes. Mix the white cane sugar with fresh basil and lemon juice. Pasteurize at 85°C, then cool and micronize with the mixture of basil. Blend in the gelato machine. Fill some spherical moulds of 2 cm diameter and freeze.
Fake tomatoes with basil flavor tomato powder basil sorbet balls tomato sauce gelatine Maldon salt, extra virgin olive oil
Stir and bring to 80°C the tomato sauce with gelatine and salt. Roll the basil sorbet balls in the tomato powder. When the gelatin is at 60°C, dip the balls of sorbet with basil and keep at -12°C. Before serving, drizzle with some extra virgin olive oil.
Taggiasche olive powder taggiasche olives
g
Dry in the oven at 60°C for 24 hours. Mix and sift.
150
Crystallized basil leaf with cocoa butter, sugar and salt basil leaves n. 15 cocoa butter, salt, sugar Wash the basil leaves. Dip them in cocoa butter at 30°C and crystallize with salt and sugar. Allow to stand for one day.
ASSEMBLY
Put the bread gelato on the dish, and place on it a cube of tomato sorbet wrapped in tomato powder. On the cube place a circle of caper crispy with a false tomato stuffed with basil sorbet and put a basil leaf on it. Place the glacier lettuce, the lemon confit and a macaron filled with some warm eggplant parmigiana and then the salted sablé with taggiasche olives, some transparent tomato gelatine, the warm buffalo ricotta cheese and a red prawn in breadcrumb crust. Ernst Knam, Leonardo Ceschin, Filippo Novelli Francesco Falasconi, Andrea Olivero in collaboration with Pierpaolo Magni e Diego Crosara photos Enrico Minasso www.coppamondogelateria.it
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
31
NEWS
Liqueur excellence The Luxardo family has owned a liqueur distillery for nearly 200 years. Named Girolamo Luxardo, the business is based in Torreglia, near Padua, and is as committed as ever to creating excellent liqueurs. Luxardo was originally founded in Zara, now the Croatian city of Zadar, under Austrian rule. Girolamo Luxardo, a gentleman and diplomat from Genova and his wife Maria Canevari moved there in 1817, and she began experimenting with liqueurs soon after. In 1821, Mr. Luxardo founded a distillery to produce Maraschino, and within eight years the liqueur had attracted the attention and approval of the Emperor of Austria. The liqueur factory remained in Zara until the 1940s, when the city was considerably damaged in World War II. The only surviving fourthgeneration Luxardo, Giorgio, moved to Torreglia: there he, along with younger Nicolò, made a new start for an old brand, and the distillery has remained there until the present day, still owned completely by the family. Piero Luxardo is now the president of the company, and five other members are part of the enterprise: Filippo, Matteo, Giorgio, Guido and Franco Luxardo. The distillery employs about 45 people, as well as about 100 salespeople throughout Italy. Luxardo continues to create liqueurs, as well as flavoured aromas and preserved fruit. The company is the worldwide market leader in Maraschino cherry liqueur production, and other popular liqueurs are Amaretto and Sambuca; the aromas are created in alcoholic and non-alcoholic varieties and are fit for confectionery. They also produce jam and preserved maraschino cherries for cocktails. With a production of 6,000 bottles per hour, the 6,800 m2 factory is very selfsufficient and does most of its work in-house, being proud of the made in Italy designation of products. The distillery has its own laboratory, quality management and automation equipment. “Our business’s compact size allows us to The Luxardo family. Above, Luxardo’s headquarter in be faster and more flexible, especially in creating new products and bringing Torreglia. them to market,” says Franco Luxardo. The company even grows many of its own fruits: the cherries needed for liqueurs and preserved maraschino cherries are produced by 22,000 Luxardo-owned Marasca cherry trees. Alongside the classic, bestselling Maraschino cherry liqueur, Luxardo’s second flagship product is cherry Sangue Morlacco liqueur. About 2/3 of products are exported and sold through distributors in about 70 countries, especially in the UK, Canada, Japan and the USA. Luxardo also participates in international trade shows, as opportunities for the company to showcase its wares and interact with a vast array of customers and potential leads. Moreover, in 2011 seven of the company’s liqueurs have been awarded bronze, silver, or gold medals in various international competitions. www.luxardo.it
Two classic shapes for a modern cake The Tortaflex range by Silikomart is well known thanks to the high quality of its made-in-Italy silicone moulds. It has been enlarged including a new design of the traditional Savarin mould (SAV), which is now available in 2 diameters: ø 180/60 h 50 mm and ø 160/80 h 40 mm. The latter can be used both individually and as an insert of the Savarin ø 180/60 h 50 mm mould. The two moulds are sold either separately (single reference number) on a 60x40 cm polycarbonate tray containing 6 pieces of the same dimensions, or in a Kit (Lady Queen) composed of 3 plus 3 moulds. Their use allow to obtain flawless desserts, which even though being traditional, have a touch of novelty. The two moulds were originally conceived by Silikomart for the Pastry Queen competition of last Sigep, which involved women pastry professionals and was won by the Italian Sonia Balacchi. www.silikomart.com
32
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
The man who has received all the most important awards in the cuisine field does not need a presentation: it is Massimo Bottura, chef at the Osteria Francescana in Modena that with his affirmation, which gives the title to this piece, closes the interview
BUT WHY?! Three Michelin stars, fourth place in the Worlds 50 Best Restaurant Awards, title of Chef’s Choice, that is, the favourite among the best colleagues in the world; a rating of 19.75/20 in the Espresso guide, Grand Prix de l’Art de la Cuisine: these are only some of the most desirable awards won by one of the greatest representatives of Italian cuisine in the world. We are speaking about Massimo Bottura, chef of the restaurant Osteria Francescana in Modena who, in the heart of the old town, has created a modern and welcoming space, where he narrates the story of tradition in evolution. Dishes such as Compressione di pasta e fagioli (Compression of pasta and beans) and the Bollito non bollito (Boiled/not boiled meat) – contemporary vision of centuries of Italian cuisine influenced by experiences abroad – are such examples. There are three tasting menus, all having distinctive characteristics: the Tradizionale, which captures the classical side of the land of Modena without losing sight of the avant-garde. The Classic menu brings together those dishes that have traced a path linked to the evolution of the raw materials, following the concept of Bottura “the territory seen from a distance of 10 km”, and instead consists of dishes such as Nero su nero (Black on black), Omaggio a T. Monk (Tribute to T. Monk); Le 5 stagionature del Parmigiano Reggiano in temperature e consistenze (The 5 maturings of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese in temperature and consistency); Ooops! Mi si è rotta la crostatina… (Oooops! The Tart is broken…), and, lastly, the third menu, which is Le Sensazioni (The Sensations), the one in which the chef tries to mentally detach himself from his land, putting the technique on stage, in a global vision, in order to rediscover memories and sensations, with the clear aim of transmitting emotions. The same that we perceive also through the words of this interview which has been carried out over several meetings and which also features the pastry chef Franco Aliberti, who has just become a member of the team.
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
33
INTERVIEW Massimo, let’s talk about you and your cuisine: how would you define it? A cuisine of the territory, seen from a distance of 10 kilomentres. I drew on an idea by Gino DeDominicis, in which the artist, urged by an important collector, agreed to paint this person’s portrait. After a couple of hours of “absolutely nothing”, DeDominicis asked the model to inspect the canvas and who, on seeing it blank, with only a black dot in the centre, irritated asked for an explanation: “It is your portrait seen from a distance of 10 kilometres”. It is in these words that what I try to express is enclosed: “my” territory, seen in a modern, up-to-date, contemporary light. If you had to express yourself as a dish, what would you choose? Tortellini.
You described your cuisine as being in evolution: what does this mean? Tradition is the result of successful experiments, and because of this traditions should be in constant evolution. As far as I am concerned, I try to give the best support to the products of my territory, which must express themselves in a system of self-sufficiency. This is a concept that is very important to me: to be able to create a “system” on the territory, shortening the supply chain so as to give an image of our land that is solid and well-characterized. Tradition, innovation, art, fusion, music: how do all these aspects coexist in your dishes? My cuisine is contemporary, therefore, it is normal that it is influenced by everyday life, without being swallowed up by it, though. At the same time, it is natural that it ex-
presses and gives form to my passions, such as art and music. Raw materials and technique: which prevails? The idea. The technique and raw materials are one at the service of the other in order to achieve the idea. In your cuisine, is it the sweet that has contaminated the savoury or viceversa? What difference does it make? The important thing is to not see any boundaries. The dish must be good and healthy, anything else fades into the background. Which are, if any, the common points between cuisine and pastry making? At the Osteria Francescana there are no differences. It all belongs to one world, one environment where ideas are exchanged and developed. What does a dessert represent inside a menu and how is it conceived? Exactly in the same way as the other dishes, which often come from considerations and ideas around which they are created such as, for example, the answer to an abstract question we have asked ourselves. What distinguishes a dessert? The fact that we consider it the final part of a journey, the final image, the last memory. In fact our menu “Sensazioni” (Sensations) starts with a granita, the same that I ate at Corrado Assenza from Noto (Sicily), a sweet-savoury prospective. Art and music, two constants that have always accompanied life and work: in what way have they left an in-
SWEET TALKING FRANCO ALIBERTI, THE NEW ENTRY AT THE OSTERIA FRANCESCANA How is your experience in sensorial experimentation going? It will be a starting point, something that will embrace, in a three dimensional way, all the aspects of gastronomy, from savoury to bitter, which before I was missing. In the meantime, I will start with the pasta dishes. Research for naturalness and experimentation. Where is the balance? The respect for the raw materials, always and above all! Instead, the techniques give us the possibility to rediscover the product within the dish, conveying a second life, there, right in front of the guest. What would you like to “give” to this new adventure? More than “give” it is a question of sharing. This is the right spirit in an environment like La Francescana: the sharing of philosophy and ideas. Desserts will always have a typically sweet tone or will research lead to other paths? As I said before, the paths are long and full of surprises. We have started to work on the breakdown of the boundary between savoury and sweet. An extreme breakdown, of 360 degrees, with an aim to eliminate any barrier in a continuous fusion of research and experimentation. Play, nature, research, memory: which will be your path? Join the dots… all of them!
34
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
INTERVIEW Mango. Breaking the boundary between sweet and savoury.
delible mark? They are my great passions through which, filtered by my memory, I try to transmit emotion. Looking abroad, from a gastronomical point of view, which are the countries that intrigue you the most? Peru and Brasil. Which direction will the restaurant industry take in the next few years? Towards a new sense of group, of belonging, creating strong synergies between chefs that work with common goals and aims, but in different territories. In Italy we already have a fantastic group of friends, from North to South, which is only waiting to expand! This last year you have received important awards. What are your projects for the future? In my future I see only the future.
Imagine a cow grazing.
One last question, for fun: Massimo Bottura interviewing Massimo Bottura: What would you like to ask yourself? But why?! Monica Onnis Photos by Paolo Terzi, Per-Anders Horgensen, Elliot Erwitt
Oooops! The tart is broken… Mint sauce fresh peppermint mineral water xylitol essential oil of mint
g g g g
250 100 30 0,5
Boil some water in a small saucepan, blanch the mint for 10 seconds and cool down in water and ice. Liquidize the mint with the other ingredients, making sure the temperature does not rise over 35°C. Strain using a fine mesh sieve.
Lemon Zabaione lemon juice limoncello from the Amalfi Coast egg yolks sugar
g g g g
80 80 85 50
Prepare a saucepan of boiling water and a stainless steel bowl that can fit inside the saucepan. Once it has come to the boil, turn off the heat. Beat the egg yolks and the sugar in the bowl away from the heat. Start to whip energetically using a whisk, placing the bowl in bagnomaria adding first the lemon juice and after, gradually add the limoncello. Whip until it is very light.
Lemongrass gelato fresh milk cream
36
g g
lemongrass, pieces sugar glucose syrup lemon peel
n. g g n.
10 120 50 2
g g g g
500 400 200 70
g
20
Place all ingredients inside the Termomix and bring to 85°C at speed 7. Once the temperature has been reached, turn off, filter and cool over ice. Pour the mixture into a recipient for the Pacojet and freeze.
Puff pastry cups with spices flour butter icing sugar egg yolks mixed spices; star anise, cinnamon, juniper, pepper, cardamom
Mix the butter and sugar together using the tips of the fingers so as to heat the butter as little as possible. Mix in the egg yolks and then the flour. Mix well. Leave to rest for 2 hours, roll out the tartlets and place in the moulds and bake for 8 minutes at 160°C. Serve as in photo, inserting candied lemon (peel and pulp), aromatic vegetable charcoal, apple mostarda, candied ginger, lemon powder.
800 200
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
Massimo Bottura Ristorante La Francescana, Modena www.lafrancescana.it Photos by Paolo Terzi
37 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
extra
om
www.
PASTRY
The 1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition, organized by Jimmy MacMillan, of JMPurepastry and the Chicago School of Mold Making, assembled four of Chicago’s top pastry talents to vie for the gold. Pastry chef Sarah Kosikowski, by Sixteen Restaurant at the Trump International Hotel Chicago, finished in top due to her technical ability, concise flavours, and clean planting of her dessert Choco Noix De Coco. She edged out her competitors on we the mistery box amuse challenge and collected the top prize. All the videos of the piw .c competition, the recipes and an interview with Sarah Kosikowski are on our web site, www.piwwe.com
Sarah Kosik owski is the 1st Chicago winner of th e Re tition. The de staurant Pastry Com pessert in this mistery box page is the amuse Gre en Tea Sem freddo Bar iYu Cherry (pho mberry Foam, Amaren to by Anthon a y Tahlier).
Waiting for the second time of the Chicago Restaurant
PASTRY COMPETITION
America is now crazy for walking desserts, but the product is completely Italian! Martellato srl is very proud to introduce one of its most successful products in the U.S.: PUSH UP POPS. This is a delicious way to provide a dessert in an original way. They are easily adaptable to all seasons and the piston plastic moulds offer a lot of possibilities to present all kinds of desserts: semifreddo, sorbets and ice creams. Enrich your Push Up Pops with theme decorations and make them the protagonist of your receptions, birthday parties, picnics in the garden, elegant appetizers, etc. ...
cod. GST01 Conf. 100 pcs
www.martellato.com
For USA please contact our branch www.martellatousa.com
PASTRY
Choco Noix de Coco Yields 8 portions
Flexible Cocoa Sablé (base) cold diced butter flour cocoa powder almond flour 10x sugar grape seed oil Tainori chocolate 64%
ture and gently fold. Spread onto a silpat and sprinkle with ginger salt. Once set, break into pieces and use as garnish.
g g g g g g g
66 75 43 66 54 15 33
Combine all dry ingredients on a Kitchenaid and mix with paddle. Add cold butter and mix just until a coarse meal texture is acquired. Place on a Silpat and bake at 163°C (325°F) for 15 minutes, stirring and rotating during baking. Cool and process in a robot coupe with oil and melted chocolate until smooth. Roll dough between two Silpats and freeze until firm. Use rectangle rings to cut bases and keep frozen until ready to use.
Coconut Fluid Gel Inserts coconut puree + more for blending agar sugar dark rum coconut extract pandan extract
g g g g g g
400 4.4 38 48 7.2 0.5
Heat puree in a saucepan. Combine sugar and agar, whisk into puree and bring to a boil. Boil for 1-2 minutes, remove from heat and add rum and extracts. Pour into a shallow pan and refrigerate until set. Place in Vita-Prep and blend until very smooth, adding more liquid if needed. Pour gel into a piping bag and fill Fleximolds. Freeze until solid and unmold. Keep frozen until ready to use.
Chocolate Crème milk cream sugar agar gelatin mass cream milk chocolate chocolate 64%
g g g g g g g g
563 63 25 3.8 17.5 250 375 63
Combine milk, cream, sugar and agar and bring to a boil. Add gelatin mass to hot liquid and stir to melt. Combine chocolates and melt to 40°C. Slowly pour hot liquid over chocolate and create an emulsion. Burr mix and set aside to cool. Lightly whip 2nd cream and fold into chocolate mixture when it reaches 38°C. Fill rectangular rings (with sablé base) half way, insert frozen coconut tube and cover with chocolate cream. Let set in cooler until firm. Unmold by warming ring with a torch and trim edges with a hot knife before serving.
Coconut Rocher milk chocolate feulletine coconut rapè sliced almonds Muscovado streusel qinqer salt as needed
g g g g g
235 106 14 62 82
Photo Anthony Talier
Toast coconut and sliced almonds separately and set aside to cool. Combine all ingredients except chocolate. Temper chocolate, pour over mix-
White Cinnamon Confiture de Lait white cinnamon milk sugar salt Tahitian vanilla bean
g g g g n.
1 665 165 1 1
Brown Butter Sorbet water xanthan gum brown butter solids dextrose sugar trimoline salt
g g g g g g g
430 2.7 53 27 130 33 2.7
Caramel Caviar cream soda sodium alginate vanilla sugar gold dust caramel paste water calcium chloride
g g g g g g g
100 0,8 4 0.1 5 300 3
Combine all ingredients except cinnamon in a saucepan and cook on med-high heat until thickened (about 1 hour). Remove from heat and strain. Add cinnamon and burr mix to a smooth consistency. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Boil the water and place in a high speed blender with the xanthan. Blend on high until all the xanthan is absorbed. Add the brown butter solids and continue to blend until completely dissolved. Add the remaining ingredients and blend smooth. Strain through a chinois into Paco Jet containers and freeze. Spin and serve.
Combine sodium alginate with sugar and gold dust. Combine cream soda and caramel paste and burr mix in dry mixture. Combine water and calcium chloride. Place caramel liquid in a squeeze bottle and pipe droplets into calcium chloride solution. Immediately remove with a slotted spoon and place in clean cold water. Chill until ready to serve.
Chocolate Toast flour cocoa powder baking powder baking soda salt vanilla extract milk butter sugar eggs sour cream
g g g g g g g g g g g
175 65 2 1.5 1.5 6 19 170 318 125 140
Combine all dry ingredients and set aside. Cream butter and sugar until fluffy and add vanilla and milk. Add eggs slowly, scraping down several times. Alternate adding the sour cream and the dry mixture until everything is incorporated. Bake in a half hotel pan lined with parchment and sprayed at 163°C (325°F) for 12 minutes. Let cake cool slightly, then unmold and freeze. When very firm, slice on a mandolin and place on a silpan. Toast at 149°C (300°F) for 12 minutes. Cool and remove from silpan; use as garnish.
Assembly
Take chocolate crème (finished with cocoa sablé base and coconut fluid gel insert) and unmold from ring using a torch. Trim ends with a hot knife to expose insert. Using a spoon, drag two lines of confiture de lait across a large rectangle plate. Place a chocolate curl in the centre of the plate. Carefully lay the chocolate crème directly in the centre of the curl. Crush a small amount of the rocher to hold sorbet and sprinkle on top of the cream, along with two larger pieces of rocher. Add a teaspoon of caviar to the plate on each side of the crème, along with a few drops of coconut syrup. Quenelle sorbet and put directly on the middle of the crème. Finish with two slices of chocolate toast. Serve and enjoy. Sarah Kosikowski
40
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
My world has changed. My new multifunction helper: Multi Fresh速, Irinox.
Multi Fresh速, a new way of working which goes beyond blast chilling. Specifically designed to meet the requirements of confectioners, Multi Fresh速 offers multiple cycles to better manage their work, ensuring higher profits and improved organisation. Dedicated cycles by product type and controlled thawing and proving cycles make Multi Fresh速 a flexible, irreplaceable kitchen tool! IRINOX. THE FUTURE OF CONFECTIONERY STARTS HERE.
T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com
To keep waste down To optimize production costs To increase the constancy and continuity of the product quality standards To respect temperatures and times of the cooking and cooling process Utmost hygiene standards
Low consumptions
pictures taken during a pastry event sponsored by Bravo Spa, November 22nd 2011, Milan
Technology at disposal of pastry tradition Bravo learns the most important novelties and turns them into technology for its machines, transforming them into automatic programs. Bravo brings the practical skills of chocolate production, of macarons and many other products right to the confectioner’s hands, transferring all the processing of the pastry masters to the digital memory of trittico®: it transforms their know-how into intelligent steel.
Bravo IS PLATINUM SPONSOR of gelato world cup 2012
Bravo IS PARTNeR of coupe du Monde de la pâtISSerIe
Bravo IS SPONSOR of InternatIonal chefS congreSS
BRAVO SPA Montecchio Maggiore (vI) Italy tel. 0039.0444.707.700 email: info@bravo.it / www.bravo.it