PA S T RY B A K E RY C O F F E E C U I S I N E
Supplemento al n. 268, Ottobre 2014 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n째 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 02/2014 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718
TWO RECORD BROTHERS ARTISTIC TRANSFORMATION FLORAL FRESHNESS TOYS AND FRAGRANCE AMBASSADOR OF TASTE OBJECTIVE RESTAURANT DESSERTS NEWS
issue twenty-five-2014
CHIRIOTTI EDITORI
10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.piwwe.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
PA S T RY B A K E RY C O F F E E C U I S I N E
Two record brothers Artistic transformation Floral freshness Toys and fragrance Ambassador of taste Objective restaurant desserts
News Build your gelato & pastry machine Mirror glaze icings A new web portal Color and taste Pastry Line and the new Glitter Tray The grand crus and single origins range The new Modecor chocolate collection Super grip pastry bags The inimitable multi-purpose assistant Sigep 2015 at Rimini Special product visibility The top multi-function Südback in Germany An innovative coating line For the love of Gigi The novelties of the year Original textures for yule logs The culture of Italian gelato around the world White color and high stability under “clean label”
TWO RECORD BROTHERS
Supplemento al n. 268, January 2014 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 02/2014 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718
In this issue
ARTISTIC TRANSFORMATION FLORAL FRESHNESS TOYS AND FRAGRANCE AMBASSADOR OF TASTE OBJECTIVE RESTAURANT DESSERTS NEWS
issue twenty-five-2014
CHIRIOTTI EDITORI
10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.piwwe.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Livia Chiriotti SENIOR EDITOR Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti NEWS EDITORS Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino ASSISTANT EDITOR Chiara Comba TRANSLATIONS Windsor - Pinerolo MARKETING EDITOR Monica Pagliardi ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Ottavio Chiriotti ART DIRECTOR Studio Impagina PRINTED BY Tipografia Giuseppini Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright © 2014 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 268 - 2014 ON OUR COVER Red Breath by Francesco and Marcello Boccia
INTERVIEW
2
TWO RECORD BROTHERS Francesco and Marcello Boccia are not only the winners of the bronze medal at the 2013 Coupe de Monde de la Pâtisserie in Lyon, but also two up and coming talents with the correct amount of modesty. Let’s have a look at their background
The Boccia brothers, Francesco and Marcello from Striano in the province of Naples, represent the good part of Italy, the ones that are not afraid to roll up their sleeves and in spite of the crisis and the difficulties, work towards their goals, despite those people who like to think that the young are “mummy’s boys” who sponge off their parents. They have been recognised worldwide, giving Italy the thrill for the first time in the history of competitions in this sector, of two brothers who have reached a worldwide level and are ready for new challenges. Like them, there are other brothers who stand out, for example Edoardo and Francesco Molinari, Turin golfers, who won the Golf World Cup in 2009, the first time it had gone to two Italians, or going back a little further in time, the Abbagnale Brothers, Giuseppe and Carmine, from Pompei, who have achieved many victories in rowing, and then there are the Della Valle Brothers branching out from the world of fashion to the world of sport… Their list of Boccia brothers’ achievements is already substantial: Francesco came first in 2009 at the Italian Junior Champion-
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ships at Sigep fair trade, then in 2011 he came second at the Italian selections of the World Chocolate Masters by Cacao Barry; in 2012 he won the Italian Conpait Championship, a victory achieved after a head to head with his younger brother Marcello. This exciting challenge enabled both of them to pass through and represent Italy, at the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie in Lyon in 2013, where the unstoppable brothers brought home another important win, the bronze medal with Lucca Cantarin. And Marcello achieved, for the first time in Italy, the prize for the best piece in sugar. It goes without saying that behind the façade of victories and rewards there is of course a downside made up of sacrifices and abnegations, also because the preparation for the competitions is a costly excersise and we must remember that “There is no discovery without risk”. We went to meet them at their pastry shop in Striano, which they run together with their proud father Michele, who shares their passion and supports them in every choices. The Patisserie was founded in 1975, with home-made products from their laboratory, and has now reached the third generation, starting with their grandfather Francesco, then their father Michele and then the two champions, who also have another brother, 20 year old Davide, who is studying law. A family-run business, the small company concentrates on a variety of products, that go from the traditional, very much appreciated, to those that have been slightly revised, from a touch of spices and aromas to customary flavours with locally sourced raw materials. Lets take a little look at the private life of Francesco, who is married to Lucia, the mother of their first son Michele: he has a Catering Diploma in food technology and started to try his hand at some of the important competitions at the tender age of
19 and has had some exceptional teachers such as Iginio Massari and Fabrizio Galla. Now he is once again “immersed” in training for the Coupe du Monde 2015, together with Emmanuele Forcone and Fabrizio Donatone. How much hard work is involved when getting ready for a competition? A lot! The job of a pastry chef requires many sacrifices but it’s the passion and the competitiveness that makes you go on, concentrate and not give up. Training is constant when there is a competition coming up. In the place where we do our training, which has been made available to us by Cast Alimenti school in the recent competitions, we work in an exact replica of the actual competition location, so that we are completely at ease with everything around us in the competition, and not just for the final preparation of the artistic piece. For Lyon we will be supported by Alessandro Dalmasso, technical director, and all the Club of the Coupe du
2014 - www.piwwe.com - n. 25
Monde - Italian Section. Then, for one month prior to the competition, we shut ourselves away in the laboratory every day and we work constantly to achieve good results. And good results, moreover excellent results are what Francesco and Marcello are all about! Francesco what do you admire most in you brother ? The fact that he manages to learn very quickly, gets the idea straight away and then makes it his own, enhancing and perfecting it time and time again. What is your professional objective in view of the fact that you have already accomplished important achievements? To win the World Championship, however keeping my feet firmly on the ground, because this is the real secret to not losing sight of your aims in life. Marcello on the other hand, is 24 years old
The recipe of Red Breath (which also appears on the front cover) is on page 4.
3
INTERVIEW
RED FRUIT GELÈ Caramel and red fruit glaze icing glucose 42DE sugar raspberry pulp strawberry pulp Tahiti vanilla pod milk chocolate Jivara 40% gelatine water for the gelatine red water-soluble colour
g g g g n g g g g
275 330 125 125 1 95 20 100 5
Caramelise the sugar and glucose at 165°C; slow down the cooking process by adding the fruit pulp, which has previously been heated through with the vanilla. Pour into a container together with the chocolate, colour and the dissolved gelatine and emulsify with a hand blender. Place it in the fridge covered with cling film to cool; use at 30°/32°C.
Citrus cream white cane sugar eggs butter cream gelatine water for the gelatine lemon juice orange juice manadarin juice lemon zest orange zest mandarin zest
g g g g g g g g g n n n
80 200 110 45 4 20 10 45 45 ½ ½ ½
Whisk the sugar and egg yolks together and then add the juices and the zests a little at a time. Bring up to 82°C, put into a container with the gelatine, and then slowly add the cream and the cold butter cubes.
English custard milk fresh cream 35% fat egg yolks sugar
g g g g
270 180 100 100
In a small saucepan bring the milk and cream to the boil. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar. After the milk and cream mixture has boiled, pour it gradually into the egg mixture in 3 stages. Continue cooking, mixing all the while with a whisk. As soon as the cream thickens (82°C) take it off the heat, stirring continuously and use.
Gianduia cremeux English custard milk chocolate Jivara 40% Piedmont’s hazelnut paste IGP gelatine water for the gelatine
g g g g g
170 100 50 5 25
Red fruit gelè raspberry pulp blueberry pulp strawberry pulp sugar type 160 Bloom gelatine water for the gelatine
g g g g g g
85 85 85 50 5 25
Pour the hot English custard over all the other ingredients and blend them together with the mixer.
Dissolve the gelatine in the microwave and mix together with the fruit pulps and the sugar.
Crispy base cocoa butter almond brittle Avola almond cream
g g g
10 160 45
Melt the cocoa butter and mix in the almond cream; pour the mixture onto the crumbled brittle and then roll out to a thickness of about ½ cm.
4
Dark chocolate mousse English custard dark Guanaja chocolate 70% gelatine water for the gelatine fresh cream 35% fat
g g g g g
190 100 3 15 230
Pistachio sponge cake egg whites sugar egg yolks sugar ground pistachio nuts melted butter pistachio paste biscuit flour rice starch
g g g g g g g g g
150 100 100 75 60 20 30 60 30
Grand Marnier syrup Grand Marnier 50% volume syrup 1:1
g g
30 180
Syrup base 1:1 water sugar
g g
100 100
Almond brittle butter sugar biscuit flour ground white almonds salt Bourbon vanilla pod
g g g g g n
225 225 45 170 2 1
Pour the hot custard onto the chocolate and dissolved gelatine and blend together in the mixer for 8 minutes. At 35°C add in the whipped cream, mixing with a whisk at first and then with a Maryse spatula in order to get a smooth mixture.
In a professional mixer whisk the egg yolks (room temperature) with the sugar (75 g) for 12-15 minutes. In another mixer whisk the egg whites (room temperature) with the sugar (100 g). Fold the two mixtures gently together with a spoon. Mix together the melted butter and the pistachio paste adding a spoonful of the egg mixture and blending it together with a Maryse spatula. Add this mix into the main egg mixture and amalgamate well. Sieve the flour and rice starch in then add the ground hazelnuts and mix with the Maryse spatula. Make up round sponges of 16 cm in diameter and 6 mm high. Bake at 240°C for 4-5 minutes.
Boil the water and sugar together in a saucepan and then cool off in the chiller.
Mix together all the ingredients in a bowl then roll it our on baking paper to a thickness of 3 mm. Bake at 175°C for 12 minutes.
Chocolate decoration
Caramel and red fruit glaze icing Dark chocolate mousse Pistachio sponge cake Citrus cream Red fruit gelé Citrus cream Dark chocolate mousse Pistachio sponge cake Gianduia cremeux Almond brittle
2014 - www.piwwe.com - n. 25
INTERVIEW
and he also attended Catering College and has already been recognised in competitions for his skill and dexterity in working with sugar. He is engaged to Rita, a 19 year old who is proudly behind him every inch of the way. You are very young and yet despite this everyone had faith in you. Do you think its time to make way for the youngsters? Yes and I’m happy to do that. I have to thank everyone who believed in me. I aim for artisan quality, which makes a difference to the end product, and therefore you need to be responsible, to put yourself on the line and work really hard, because only then will you have results. I think the youngsters need to be helped and suppor-
ted because they are dynamic, we must have confidence in them and offer them the chance to grow, as happened with me. You are also now involved in training and formation. What does this experience represent for you? It’s an opportunity for me and for those who are taking part in the courses. Another great challenge! I like to transmit my emotions and give advice to those who are thinking of taking up this type of career. I am proud when one of my lessons motivates and prompts someone to better themselves. What do you admire most in your brother Francesco? His precision and his obsessiveness when he is creating a work of art. He studies
constantly and works extremely hard when he has an objective. Achievements aside, we should take a leaf out of the two ‘record’ brothers book, learn from their tenacity and take into consideration the fact that to reach your objectives, there are many sacrifices to be made along the way and yet despite this, to carry on… Maybe taking a quote from Count Vittorio Amedeo Alfieri, dramatist, poet, writer and Italian theatrical actor – who in response to a letter from Ranieri of Calsabigi in 1783, wrote “I willed, always willed and passionately willed”. Ad maiora!
Simona Buonaura photos Piero Garofalo
The two brothers Francesco and Marcello with their father Michele.
Strawberry and fresh cream puffs PUFF PASTRY Detrempe white flour 00 280W salt water
g g g
Chantilly cream fresh cream Bourbon vanilla pod sugar
450 18 250
Mix together all the ingredients in a professional mixer with a dough hook, shape into a small ball, wrap in cling, film and put in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Beurrage butter white flour 00 280W
300 ½ 30
Split and scrape the vanilla pod into the cold cream to infuse for 24 hours at 4°C and make it vacuum sealed. Add the sugar and whip the cream in the professional mixer.
Assembly method
g g
600 150
Use the professional mixer with the dough hook and amalgamate the butter and flour: put this into the first mixture and then, using an electric pastry roller, fold it into 3 and leave it to rest for 20 minutes. Then pass it through the electric pastry roller again and fold it into 4 and leave it to rest for 30 minutes. Continue with another 3 fold and then another 4 fold, always taking care to leave the pastry to rest in between the folding. Put this into the fridge until you have a dough that is easy to work with. Roll out the pastry to a thickness of 2.5 mm, prick it with a pastry pricker and wait for 2 hours before baking at 180°C for 18 minutes.
6
g n g
Cut out three 7 cm rounds of puff pastry. Start off with one round of the pastry as your base, use little wild strawberries and create an outer ring around the pastry; then using a piping bag, fill the centre of this layer with little rosettes of Chantilly cream. Place a second round of puff pastry on top of this and pipe only the Chantilly rosettes on this layer. Lastly, cover this with the third round of puff pastry and then with a dusting of icing sugar, making a little circle in the middle. Decorate with a wild strawberry.
2014 - www.piwwe.com - n. 25
Francesco a Marcello Boccia Striano, Na photos Pietro Garofalo
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7
NEWS
BUILD YOUR GELATO & PASTRY MACHINE Bravo has presented its new 2014 Trittico series with features which make it a unique gelato and pastry machine, even with reference to the price. The most important innovations are: the front command board has been restyled with a new design; the front door is bigger for a major and easier product output; it is available also with the optional 7" touch screen; it is supplied with the Ionic System of third generation, a new patented tool to improve the ionic control system also during the batch-freezing of a small amount of gelato; the website configurator.bravo.it allows professionals to build their own machines. With the new Duo Series, Trittico becomes more than just a versatile technology, it becomes a customizable tool, so that each professional can configure it, according to his needs. Entering the website configurator.bravo.it, you can select the most suitable Trittico model and choose the optionals, only buying what you really need. Thanks to the innovative configurator, you have the chance to see the machine virtually equipped with all the useful accessories, but most of all you will find the technical data. For information on the special website section reserved to distributors, please contact Bravo Sales Department or write to info@bravo.it
MIRROR GLAZE ICINGS More than half century of experience allows Bigatton to offer decorative solutions for cakes, semifreddos, individual charlottes… The mirror glaze icings Mirroir do not freeze up at negative temperatures of -20°C and remain glossy for a long time. Available in different flavors and colors, they are easily adaptable to the tastes of modern and traditional pastries. These products are easy to work by heating them in a bain-marie or directly in a microwave, then mixed and used; they are packaged in plastic bags of 3.5 kg, 4 plastic bags per carton. www.bigatton.com
A NEW WEB PORTAL MyBussy is a new web portal dedicated to professionals to stimulate their creativity in the lab. The innovative initiative comes from Bussy, the Milan-based company specializing since 1967 in the production of wafers and cannoli for gelato and pastry. It confirms its ability to combine tradition and innovation using new forms of communication, and the new web portal turns up as an optimal opportunity of direct contact with the artisans. MyBussy also aims at becoming a reference point for interactive gelato makers and confectioners. Is is accessible from the company website (www.bussy.it) and it collects videos, photos, recipes… On the site there are already several video tutorials and it is possible to discover the versatility of Bussy products such as Biscottone, which is made of crunchy wafer and covered with a layer of dark chocolate; Trottole, small rolled waffle cones, or the increasingly popular Ciokkolone, a maxi waffle which is chocolatecoated inside. www.bussy.it
COLOR AND TASTE Tradition and originality: these are the features characterizing La Sfoglia D’Oro, which was founded in 2006 by Milena Spadaro in Modica, Sicily. Thanks to its almost twenty years of experience, the company provides high quality semi-finished products for pastry shops. The puff pustry basket convered with granulated sugar is a handicrafted original item, which is an exclusive by La Sfoglia d’Oro. It can be filled with creams, yogurt and gelato. It is available in different versions – strawberry, orange, lemon, pistachio and cocoa – as a new way to create a wonderful combination of color and taste. www.lasfogliadoro.it
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PASTRY LINE AND THE NEW GLITTER TRAY The Pastry Line by Erremme is the result of a long history, made up of manufacturing know-how, outstanding quality and knowledge of the great Italian pastry tradition. Today it includes a wide range of containers, trays and single portions, capable of satisfying both functional and aesthetic requirements. All the products are made of PS and/or PET, i.e. non-toxic and aseptic plastic materials, for maximum hygiene and resistance to moisture. Among the leading items of the line, it is worth mentioning the new Glitter Tray, an example of design, functionality, quality and manufacturing excellence by Erremme. It is available in diameters 9 and 12 cm and is made both in the classic gold color and in two innovative hues, that is brown with gold glitters and black with silver glitters. These new chromatic combinations are meant to add value to the desserts, transferring an innovative and sophisticated image. The Glitter Tray is also equipped with practical transparent lids made in two heights (namely 5.5 cm and 7.5 cm for the 9 cm diameter and 6.5 cm and 8.5 cm for the 12 cm diameter), to favor both the take away option and the preservation of cakes and desserts. www.erremmesrl.it
2014 - www.piwwe.com - n. 25
CHOCOLATE
The most recent developments in the field of artistic working according to Mof Stéphane Leroux
ARTISTIC TRANSFORMATIONS In a past issue of “Pasticceria Internazionale” we dedicated an expansive article to the celebrated Mof Stéphane Leroux (which we are re-publishing in Italian on our www.pasticceriaextra.it), where the mastery of the chocolate maker was illustrated thanks to the presentation of his photographic book “Matière Chocolat”, which groups together a “collection” of his works and words. Three years later we ask him to take stock of the situation, in the light of the contemporary changes. In your opinion, which is the most evident technical evolution in the field of chocolate artistry, today? The showpieces have evolved in the use of colours which are integrated in a much better way into the chocolate, and the result is that they are much more representative, also hyperrealistic, valorized by a classic or decisively more daring assembly. Many professionals today understand better the limits of chocolate as far as resistance of the material and the possibility of assembly and valorization are concerned. What are your sources of inspiration as far as beauty is concerned? They are always the same: nature, architecture, studying the material... but they have undergone a transformation with practice. This allows me to reinterpret things every time, learning something new every day, with the desire to go further. How important are colours in your work? To me they are important in order to express some things but they are not compulsory. Their usage has evolved a lot, they are better integrated into the showpiece and we feel much more
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comfortable. The fact of being able to use the colour blue, for example, does not create any problems, but this does not become a problem providing that you know how to use it well, otherwise it is better not to attempt it. How do you “see� chocolate in the future? As far as the artistic side is concerned, I believe it has a rosy future. Just look at the showpieces prepared during competitions. This is a material that has no limits and each of us has the possibility to have a particular view of the world and to express this through it. As far as taste is concerned, also, in this case, I believe the future is rosy. Chocolate is always very much appreciated and consumption is developing a lot in the world. So, for now, no crisis!
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11
NEWS
THE GRAND CRUS AND SINGLE ORIGINS RANGE Since the 1970’s, Icam Linea Professionale has selected the very best of the beans grown in those countries traditionally regarded as the cradle of cocoa, where the crop has played a significant role in the economy, history and culture of the local peoples. The result of this long voyage is a premium quality chocolate range which represents varieties of distinctive characteristics which reflect the origin, the individual genotype and the different harvest seasons. In the faraway lands – Central America, Latin America and West Africa – Icam performs a rigorous and accurate selection of raw materials to identify the finest varieties of cocoa, those best processed in the harvesting and post-harvest operations, possessing superior aroma and taste. This is particularly evident in the two Grand Cru Los Palmaritos and Los Vasquez, both 74% of cocoa, made with cocoa beans from two specific plantations in the Dominican Republic, while the Cru Pachiza - cocoa 70% is the result of a rigorous and accurate selection in the San Martin region, Peru. Next to the Grand Crus there is a wide range of Single Origins Couvertures: Single Origin Dominicana – cocoa 75%, Single Origin Ecuador – cocoa 74%, Single Origin Madagascar – cocoa 71%, Single Origin São Tomé – cocoa 71%, and the Milk Single Origin Perù – cocoa 39%. The activities of Icam have been accompanied since the beginning by a deep ethical engagement, translated into important commercial partnerships built on respect, dialog and transparency. To confirm its continuous and constant commitment to the research and the development of higher quality cocoa, Icam brings its wealth of knowledge and experience to the heart of Africa. The result is an excellent cocoa, with an intense yet versatile character that guarantees a distinctive, high quality chocolate: the Dark Chocolate Single Origin Uganda – cocoa 78%, which is excellent in pralines, in combination with ganache creams and fillings that contain significant alcoholic and aromatic parts. In confectionery it is fit for rich, fullbodied and well-structured cream mousses and ganaches. Thanks to its density and intense taste, it expresses itself perfectly in cold desserts: excellent for semifreddo desserts and with chocolate gelato, it can be used in combination with other perfumes and ingredients. www.icamprofessionale.it
SUPER GRIP PASTRY BAGS
THE NEW MODECOR CHOCOLATE COLLECTION With the release of the Fall-Winter 2014 catalog, Modecor presents a new concept of chocolate decorations to make confectionary creations special and funny for the most delicious period of the year. They can be used to enrich both Halloween and Christmas petits fours. A set of mini rounds (diameter 2.2 cm) in white chocolate (much loved by children) with "Halloween cute monsters" pearlescent prints is available. Moreover, the mini shaped and multicolor Christmas decorations give a touch of festive magic to traditional pastry. With a simple and quick gesture, it is possible to transform an everyday petit four into a special Christmas sweet. The strength of Modecor chocolate decorations is the handcrafted production: the best raw materials are chosen to obtain ready-to-use items for unique cakes, sweets and semifreddo desserts. In the chocolate department, they are manufactured in a gluten free environment, for which the company is registered with the AIC (Italian Celiac Association). Recently it has received the international certifications BRC and IFS, providing an even higher level of service and quality. Modecor products and chocolate decorations are delivered directly to pastry and gelato professional laboratories with a special packaging, in order to minimize the possibility of damage. All the news concerning the Fall/Winter 2014 chocolate collection appear on the online catalog, www.modecor.it
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The main feature of Martellato Green Poche, the new disposable pastry bags for professionals, is the “grip effect” of polyethylene, which greatly facilitates pastry chefs’ work. Moreover, the quality of their sealing avoids any risk of breakage during use. The product is entirely made in Italy in the following sizes: 30, 40, 55 and 65 cm; thickness 80 mycron. The types of packaging available are 100 pcs roll in four colour printed boxes, 20 pcs roll in transparent bag and customized packaging on request. www.martellato.com
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www.sgsm.it
futura ex New version with Screwpump removable®
Tank capacity: 35 kg. Hourly production: 170 kg. Power consumption: 2.5 kW – three phase, 5 poles.
www.selmi-group.it Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN) Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 info@selmi-group.it
Approved Event
001/2014 SGPX14S1
FLORAL FRESHNESS The 2014 edition of the Gelato World Cup took place last January in Rimini, during Sigep trade show. The competition was won by the French Team, and the Italian Team – including Stefano Biasini, Marco Martinelli, Luca Mazzotta and team manager Beppo Tonon – won second place thus obtaining a wonderful result. Here are some of the Italian recipes, which are part of a complete menu celebrating the beauty and fragrance of flowers. Other recipes are on www.piwwe.com
a s t i c c er i a
extra
t ra . i t
2014 - www.piwwe.com - n. 25
.p
ex
www
VIOLETTA
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GELATO
VIOLETTA gelato cake
Violet is the common name for plants of the Viola species. The flowers have a delicate scent, which is unmistakable even among thousands of other tastes and flavours. They can change into agreeable crisps through a crystallization process or into a natural extract… flower taste to all intents and purposes! The violet flavouring is amplified by matching it with a series of other congenial tastes: chocolate, cassis fruit, the Piedmontese hazelnut, mandarin and vanilla gelato. The cake is placed inside a leaves wreath and is enriched in the centre by a precious stretched sugar flower with the purpose to give a pleasant memory through this wonderful marriage.
ABINAO CHOCOLATE 85% BISQUIT eggs invert sugar superfine sugar powdered almonds flour cocoa chemical yeast liquid cream olive oil dark chocolate 60%
g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz
410/14.46 125/4.41 200/7.05 125/4.41 200/7.05 40/1.41 12/0.42 245/8.64 120/4.23 130/4.60
Whip the first 3 ingredients, then add the flours and, at the end, add the liquids. Cook at 190°C/374°F for 20 minutes.
DARK CHOCOLATE CHABLON WITH CRYSTALLIZED VIOLET FLOWERS MANDARIN SORBET water sucrose glucose dextrose Giubileo fruit mix mandarin concentrated juice Mandarinetto liqueur
g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/lb g/oz
300/10.58 400/14.10 15/0.53 35/1.23 20/0.70 1200/2.65 30/1.05
CASSIS INSERT cassis puree animal jelly
g/lb g/oz
1000/2.20 20/0.70
Italian meringue violet flavouring
g/oz g/oz
250/8.82 1/0.03
HAZELNUT SEMIFREDDO egg yolk sugar hazelnut paste Italian meringue half-whipped cream
g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/lb
140/4.49 200/7.05 150/5.30 150/5.30 500/1.10
DARK CHOCOLATE ICING FOR THE FILLING dark chocolate Equatorial 55% Valrhona g/oz fresh cream g/oz honey from mixed blossom g/oz mandarin peels g/oz
250/8.82 250/8.82 25/0.88 2/0.072
Bring to 80°C/176°F the egg yolks and sugar and whip. Add the Italian meringue and the hazelnut pastry, then lighten with the half-whipped cream.
VANILLA GELATO milk cream sucrose powdered milk dextrose destrin malt glucose Giubileo milk Giubileo vanilla paste
g/lb g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz
1136/2.50 200/7.05 300/10.58 120/4.23 25/0.88 10/0.35 10/0.35 60/2.12 145/5.11
THE BLOOMING OF TASTES entrée
In the 19th century, the brothers Louis and Auguste Bravais, botanist the first and crystallographist the second, observed that in some plants the leaves and the petals set up according to a vegetative spiral assuring the best use of sunlight. Such an angle corresponds to the Golden Section which was defined, along the centuries, as the perfect proportion. Already known in Egyptian times and used in all ages as an example which intrinsically lent beauty to shapes, this application embodied itself in the Golden Rectangle through the numerical sequence of the Pisan mathematician Fibonacci. The entrée derives from these cues and also the choice to use the planning flexibility of Hanex as a material for the arrangement of the entrée itself on a support.
GRANA PADANO CHEESE SOUP WITH PEPPER AND ROSEMARY GELATO extra virgin olive oil garlic rosemary
g/oz g/oz g/oz
200/0.70 10/0.35 10/0.35
RED PEPPER GELATO roast pepper pepper water water powderd milk dextrose milk extra virgin olive oil salt
g/lb g/oz g/lb g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz
650/1.43 250/8.18 500/1.10 200/7.05 310/10.93 50/1.76 35/1.23 5/0.18
saffron powder of the Navelli plain (L’Aquila area)
ITALIAN GRANA PADANO D.O.P. WATER Italian Grana Padano D.O.P.
16
(20 months of maturing) acqua corn flour
g/oz g/oz g/oz
50/5.30 300/10.58 24/0.85
Mix water and corn flour and heat at 70°C/150° F. Add the grated Grana Padano cheese and micronize. Heat at 60°C/140°F.
BREAD WITH NATURAL YEAST FLAVOURED WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY natural yeast (starter) g/lb 1250/2.75 flour w 280 kg/lb 5/11.02 water kg/lb 3,5/7.71 salt g/oz 115/4.06
Spiral kneading machine: 2 minutes at speed 1 + 7 minutes at speed 2. Temperature at the end of the process 27°C/80°F. Freshen up the starter and keep it in the refrigerator at 27°C/80°F for 2 h. Prepare an autolysis of 30 minutes with the flour and 55% of water, kneading them at speed 1. Add the starter, the salt in the middle of the dough and, slowly, the rest of the water. Let the dough stand for 1 h, and divide it into 500g/1.1 lb pieces. Let them leaven for 3 h at 220-230°C/80-82°F. Put in the oven with steam at 428/446°F, then reduce temperature of 15°C/59°F. Finish the baking with open valve.
2014 - www.piwwe.com - n. 25
Essential, sinuous and unique in its shape: Eclipse.
The new mould to make elegant preparations with a unique shape. MADE IN ITALY
ECLIPSE ONE 180 h 45 Size: Ø 180 h 45 mm Volume: 1000 ml
A
B
1
• Fill 1/3 of the part B of the Eclipse mould with the first preparation
A+B
4
• Fill the Eclipse mould with the second preparation
REGISTERED DESIGN
Discover the complete range in the professional area:
professional.silikomart.com
2
3
• Put the sponge base (SQ012 - Disco)
5
• Close the Eclipse mould with the part A
6
• Cover with sponge base
• Freeze and unmould
Via Tagliamento, 78 - 30030 Mellaredo di Pianiga (VE) - Italy Tel. +39 041 5190550 Fax +39 041 5190290
GELATO
ORANGE FLOWER LENTILS AND COUS-COUS WITH MUSTARD GELATO AND PARSLEY SAUCE MUSTARD GELATO cream powdered milk salt dextrose mustard vinegar Giubileo base sugar dehydrated glucose LENTIL CREAM lentils onion carrots celery extra virgin olive water orange peel
g/lb g/oz g/oz g/oz g/lb g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz
1100/2.42 20/0.70 14//0.49 120/4.23 500/1.10 20/0.70 50/1.76 120/4.23 56/1.97
g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz
200/7.05 50/1.76 20/0.70 20/0.70 20/0.70
Soak the lentil for 8 h in cold water. Stew the vegetables, add the lentil and make them boil until soft. Whisk vigorously and add some salt. Add the orange flavouring.
COUS-COUS cous-cous acqua 80°C sale
Mix the warm water in the cous-cous.
PARSLEY SAUCE Franciacorta D.O.C.G. white wine fresh cream parsley leaves corn flour salt
g/oz g/oz g/oz
g/oz g/oz g/oz g/oz
100/3.53 100/3.53 2/0.03
200/7.05 350/12.35 15/0.53 3/0.10
Mix cream and wine and make it boil till it becomes a third of the initial quantity. Put the right salt and whisk vigorously with the parsley leaves. Add the corn flour and heat at 70°C/150°F. Reduce temperature and preserve at 3°C/+37.4°F.
RED LOBSTERS WITH RED TOMATOES AND GOAT CHEESE AND CAULIFLOWER GELATO extra virgin olive oil alpha alpha sprouts
g/oz
10/0.35
GOAT CHEESE AND CAULIFLOWER GELATO fresh goat milk g/lb 1000/72.20 boiled cauliflower g/oz 250/8.82 fresh goat cheese g/oz 250/8.82 powdered milk g/oz 80/2.82 dextrose g/oz 300/10.58 threalose g/oz 70/10.58 milk g/oz 50/1.76 DATE TOMATOES EXTRACT date tomatoes corn flour basil
g/lb g/oz g/oz
100/2.20 8/0.28 4/0.14
Remove the seeds and the water from the tomatoes. Micronize the pulp and skin at the highest speed for 1 minute. Add the corn flour to 300 g/10.58 oz. of the product and bring it to 70°C/150°CF. Cool down with the rest of the pulp. Reduce temperature and preserve at +3°C/+37.4°F.
TARTARE 58°C/15’ (136.4°F/15’) OF RED LOBSTERS tails of red lobsters g/oz 300/10.58 extra virgin olive oil g/oz 20/0.70 salt g/oz 20/0.03 pepper g/oz 0,1/0.003 fresh thyme g/oz 0,3/0.009 bio lemon g/oz 0,2/0.006
Clean the lobster tails and chop them in little pieces. Season them with the other ingredients and vacuum pack. Cook at a low temperature of 58°C /136.4°F for 15 minutes. Reduce temperature and preserve at +3°C/+37.4°F
RED LOBSTERS CRISPS rice flour red lobsters melted butter egg whites salt sugar
g/oz 50/1.76 g/oz 50/1.76 g/oz 301.05 g/oz 20.0605.30 g/oz 150
RED LOBSTERS BUTTER red lobsters heads butter thyme leaves water Cognac salt
g/oz g/oz g/oz dl/pt g/pt g/oz
Mix the ingredients and let them stand in the refrigerator for at lest 2 h. Bake in the oven at 150°C/302°F for 8/10 minutes until browning.
200/7.05 100/3.53 0,2/0.006 0,5/10 0,50.10 0,5/0.017
Brown the lobsters heads in a pan, drip a little of Cognac and add thyme and salt. Add the water and let cook over a low flame for 8 minutes. Add the butter and put out the flame. Filter, let it cool and eliminate the impurities. Massimo Carnio Stefano Biasini Marco Martinelli Luca Mazzotta team manager Beppo Tonon www.coppamondogelateria.it
GELATO
“Suspended in a glass, tastes retrace the geography of Italy. They are the Sicilian cassata cream, the Roman sour cherry sorbet, and the naturalness of the Piedmontese hazelnuts”. That’s the meaning of the ingredients found in the Italian decorated gelato cup called “The nectar in the bud”, further enhanced by the fine scent of Mediterranean lavender.
The elegant ice pièce called “The big moving flower”.
The secret ingredient of the Italian cone was the Ramandolo DOCG wine from Friuli.
20
The collection of 6 chocolate gelato small cakes called “The garden of flowers and scents”: Saturn Harmonies with saffron flowers, cocoa and orange crispy mass, Italian meringue, dark chocolate shell, white chocolate gelato, maracuja and saffron sorbet; Calendula flowers with yellow blanc manger, dark chocolate base, white chocolate gelato, pineapple semifreddo, cocoa gruè biscuits; Lilac scented tiramisù, coffee biscuit, milk chocolate gelato, chocolate sauce, Mascarpone cream, gelified coffee; Rose quartz, dark chocolate biscuit, milk chocolate gelato, rose scented semifreddo; Raspberry flower spiral, raspberry iced biscuit, dark chocolate gelato; chocolate, rice and dried fruit base; Dark chocolate orange petal, maracuja sablé, dark chocolate gelato, orange semifreddo and wafer.
2014 - www.piwwe.com - n. 25
CHOCOLATE
TOYS AND FRAGRANCE Antonio Le Rose, a renowned chocolatier from Genova, measures himself with recipes of fragranced pralines which unite chocolate with the scents and flavours of two fine Italian straw wines, or that bring to mind the spinning top, a loved and old childhood toy
ENOPRALINA WITH SCIACHETRÀ WINE Finely ground toasted almonds sugar paste white chocolate
g g g
600 800 800
SPINNING TOPS
Place everything inside the mixer and add Sciachetrà wine* g 375 Buongusto alcohol g 500 melted cocoa butter g 250 melted white chocolate g 100 *Sciachetrà is a sweet and fortified straw wine produced in Liguria, northern Italy, in the Cinque Terre area.
figs from Cosenza hills* peeled almonds 30 degree Baumé syrup Strega liqueur icing sugar sugar paste glucose
g g g g g g g
400 400 150 50 500 300 100
Finely grind in a refiner, adding pieces of dried raspberries, mix well and make some balls weighing approx. 18 g, shaping them like a spinning top. Cover with sugar paste and then after, cover the top part with milk chocolate. Using a small cone trace some thin lines to look like string.
*figs cultivated in an hilly area (200-400 meters above sea level) in the province of Cosenza, Calabria, in southern Italy. They are harvested in autumn and dried for 8 days in the sun, to avoid mildew. This natural process allows their later safe storage and winter consumption.
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3D SILICONE MOULDS
Christmas
www.martellato.com
CHOCOLATE
PRALINE WITH ZIBIBBO FROM PANTELLERIA Basic cream with Zibibbo* egg yolks n brown sugar g Zibibbo wine* g Buon Gusto alcohol* g
Ganache basic cream with Zibibbog melted white chocolate g Buon Gusto alcohol g melted cocoa butter g Crystallize on marble.
10 300 250 60
Cook over a flame in a copper pan and cool quickly.
*The name Zibibbo comes from the Arab zabib or zibibb, meaning grape. The vine variety is widespread in the Mediterranean area. Both a selected dry white wine and the sweet straw Moscato from Pantelleria (Sicily) are obtained by Zibibbo grapes. *Buon Gusto is an ethyl alcohol 95° produced by the Italian company Sprint Distillery. It is mainly used for homemade production of spirits and liqueurs and professional uses.
500 400 50 80
Assembly
Place small ganache truffles on a sheet of baking paper using a sac à poche with a n. 8 nozzle. Place another sheet of baking paper on top, press lightly using a baking tray, to obtain “medals” of 2.5 cm and leave to rest for at least 8 hours. Remove the baking paper, brush the surface with tempered dark chocolate and then turn the pralines over. Place some Zibibbo grapes on top (sun dried with all the stalk and then the pips are removed by hand) and cover with the dark chocolate coating 60%. Antonio Le Rose Il Tempio del Cioccolato, Genova www.iltempiodelcioccolato.it photo Andrea Pace
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www.icamprofessionale.it
Italian down to the last drop. Every last drop of Icam chocolate contains something truly inimitable and unique: a passion for taste and creativity that’s Italian through and through. Sixty years of experience in the world of chocolate, carefully selected raw materials, full control throughout the farming and production chain and the use of the most advanced technology currently available: this is what makes Icam the last word in quality Italian chocolate. Icam Linea Professionale is here to help you turn this quality chocolate into exquisitely tasty creations that are Italian right down to the last drop.
I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R AT I O N , O U R PA S S I O N .
NEWS
SIGEP 2015 AT RIMINI THE INIMITABLE MULTI-PURPOSE ASSISTANT MultiFresh® is the blast chiller by Irinox that combines chilling functions (cooling, freezing, thawing, chocolate) and warming functions (low temperature cooking, regeneration, pasteurization, proofing, holding) in a single appliance. It is now even easier to use thanks to MyA, a new touch screen interface with 7” screen, which makes MultiFresh® even more intuitive, with clear icons: the parameters – time, ventilation, core temperature – can be altered at any moment to create the ideal process for each product. MyA offers many opportunities to pastry chefs who can create a list of favourite cycles or record the ideal cycle by making ad hoc adjustments to the production process, find answers to all their queries about the new interface with a complete on-line guide, or choose the continuous cycle to freeze or chill for more than 8 hours without interruption. Using MultiFresh® you can chill or freeze with cycles dedicated to pastry, bakery, gelato and bread making. You can do safe, controlled thawing without stressing products, proof at constant temperature and humidity in order to develop the structure and provide crisp crumbly pastry, cook meringue or pochè fruits at low temperature, going on automatically to chilling or freezing. Last but not least, you can regenerate cooked products just in time for serving or hold at the required temperature. www.irinoxprofessional.com
Full speed ahead on work by the organizing team on SIGEP 2015, the international expo for artisan gelato and confectionery, an acknowledged meeting point for bakery and the rapidly growing coffee chain, thanks to the international events scheduled. The 36th edition will be held from Saturday 17th to Wednesday 21st January at Rimini Fiera. The success of the last edition (174,000 visitors, 20,1% more than 2013) was achieved also thanks to the positive inclusion of Rimini Horeca Expo, showing the trends in food and beverage consumption away from home. In 2015 a further opportunity for development will come from the simultaneous A.B.TECH EXPO, including the entire bakery sector, from artisan products to innovative industrial technology. Rimini Fiera business unit manager Patrizia Cecchi explains: “There promises to be a further increase in the expo – we’re working to ensure that, as well as the great success with trade visitors. There is also a constantly higher visitor profile, particularly that of those from abroad. All this in close collaboration with the key associations and thus with the enterprises, fundamental for sharing the coordinates for the expo’s expansion”. And many events will take place. SIGEP Gelato d’Oro, with the selections of the Italian team for the 2016 Gelato World Cup and the Pastry Events will be the hub of the events, with the respective arenas dedicated to the performances of renowned professionals. The World Junior Pastry Championship will be the top of the bill show. Young professionals from every continent will showcase their passion, determination and ambition, demonstrating a range of techniques and creative skills, not to mention leaps of imagination. Their creations will then be scored by the international judging panel and the theme will be Italian Food Style. The long-standing tradition of Italian confectionery takes centre-stage with the Italian Senior Championship, in order to discover the winner of the over-23 pastry-making competition, while at the Italian Junior Championship, pastry chefs from all over Italy take to the Pastry Arena, inspired by an icon of Italian style – the Vespa scooter – presented in sugar and chocolate masterpieces. The theme of The Pastry Queen Italian Selection – in which Italian pastry chefs will be fighting for the right to compete in the Women's 2016 Pastry Queen competition – is: Stylists and Haute Couture. Through their sugar and chocolate sculptures, plated desserts and "mini sweet" rings, the contestants will be staging their creations. Moreover, the artistic side of confectionery and the techniques of pastry decoration will be developed in the contest “The Charm of the Seventh Art”, organized in partnership with “Pasticceria Internazionale” and Tervi at the International Pastry Forum. http://en.sigep.it - glamouritaliancakes.it
SPECIAL PRODUCT VISIBILITY The Dream line of gelato display cases by ItalProget was conceived for the lovers of design neatness. The display window is autonomously supported, without any structural iron element, eliminating every obstacle between the user and the product, and giving a lighter and unique aspect at first glance. The Moon line was designed for the admirers of tradition. The frontal curved window recalls classic lines and of the traditional outline of display case windows, with the latest structural features. To give maximum visibility to the product and avoid any alteration, due to the frontal glass curving, it was designed with a very wide radius that not only grants the maximum visibility, but also gives a unique aesthetic quality. It’s almost spherical and it reminds the shape of the moon after which it was named. The wide front opening offers the maximum access for cleaning or loading and unloading of the product, also from the outside, in both lines. Each one is equipped with ventilated refrigeration with single air-flow and the reversed cycle fast defrosting (90 seconds) of vaporizers. On demand it is possible to have a further function to vary the temperature from negative to positive. The thermic display window is electrically powered. www.italproget.com
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The beauty of chocolate
The chocolate decorations Fall-Winter 2014 collection Clockwise from the top: Chocolate transfer sheet with skulls; white chocolate decorations with silicone moulds. Halloween’s white chocolate decorations for Petit Four, pearlescent print.
Modecor Italiana srl Via G. Maggi, 2 - 21030 Cuvio (Va) - ITALY Tel. +39 0332 658311
Decorations for pastry shops
QUALITY, INNOVATION, SERVICE w w w . m o d e c o r. i t
INTERVIEW
AMBASSADOR OF TASTE From Bologna to the States, Lorenzo Boni explains the real Italian taste to America, far removed from the tainted views that undermine the awareness of the “Made in Italy” brand overseas
30
If the prestigious magazine Forbes has crowned Bologna the Capital of Taste, then it should come as no surprise to find out that precisely from the region’s capital, a chef, who is an ambassador and defender of the Italian characteristics, has upped and left for the New World. Lorenzi Boni, 45 years old and with a career in prestigious venues, is today the chef that Barilla has chosen, not only as the creator and inventor of new recipes and sauces, but also as the interpreter of the “Made in Italy” taste, in a country that has yet to be educated on a gastronomical level. “I wouldn’t define myself as following in the family business - says Lorenzo – even if in reality my father had a well known restaurant in Bologna. The first steps in my career were in his trattoria, but I actually really wanted to learn haute cuisine”. After catering school in Rimini, he continued his career path, first with Paracucchi, where he learnt the art of fresh pasta, then at San Domenico in Imola where his tutor was Pascal Piermattei, a renowned pastry chef, who after a ten year stint in Brittany, is today with Carlo Cracco at the Palazzo Parigi in Milan. After this he was with Sergio Mei at The Casanova Grill and from here he flew out to Washington with Silvano Zucconi, from the Hotel Principe and Savoia, to ‘walk on air’ in the incredible Windows on the World restaurant on the 107th floor of the North tower in The Twin Towers World Trade Centre in New York, today committed to memory. The return trip to Italy, he saw himself as a restaurateur in the shadow of the Twin Towers in his hometown Bologna, and so then came the choice to return overseas, with Barilla. “ My experiences accompany me in my daily work – explains Boni – in the high technology research and development laboratories in Chicago, where we at Barilla are studying new dishes and the recipes that you find on the packaging. It’s a very delicate job in which we need to study the public’s tastes very carefully and then translate the dishes in a way that they can be welcomed by palates that very often are not used to the ‘real Italian taste”. “In fact, it’s a big responsibility to point out to an American – but in reality Lorenzo is referring to all the Americas, with particular attention paid to the strongest markets like Canada, Mexico and Brasil, in addition of course to the United States – how to cook pasta and which sauce to accompany it with, if we consider that in their culture, pasta is cooked when it sticks if you throw it at a wall ! he is joking, in his usual friendly way, but between one joke and another the truth comes out telling of a continent in which the awareness of Italian produce is often scarse and very confusing. “Here there are
2014 - www.piwwe.com - n. 25
The MosT envied.
Since its first appearance on the market, the R line has been destined to become a classic; today it is an essential benchmark for gelato makers, pastry chefs and caterers .
The sale success and the customers satisfaction confirm it: the multifunction machine by Staff Ice System is really the most envied.
OFFICIAL SPONSOR
STAFF ICE SYSTEM is the official sponsor for the Italian National Chefs Team
Batch freezing / cooking / mixing / pasteurising / cooling / blending and‌much more! warranted energy saving / inverter technology
STAFF Ice System Srl - via Anna Frank, 8 - 47924 Rimini (RN) • Italy tel. +39 0541 373250 - fax +39 0541 371376 - office@staff1959.com - www.staff1959.com
INTERVIEW
Neapolitan Pastiera.
certain dishes going round that are wrongly attributed to the Italian tradition – says Boni – but in reality interpreted, translated and adapted over the course of decades, compared to the traditional ones that came ashore with our migrant workers. You hear of and see dishes like Spaghetti Bolognese, Tetrazzini chicken or Vesuvius Chicken, Alfredo’s fettucine, Caesar salad to name but just a few of the typical examples. It is for this reason that we do a lot of lessons, also in the universities, explaining why there is so much confusion! In my teaching work I often make a list of dishes and then I ask the students, future chefs, to find me a central theme. It’s quite funny, even if it’s a bit sad at the same time, to see their astonished faces when I tell them that what they consider to be a list of Italian dishes has absolutely nothing to do with the traditions of our country”. During the conversation, as an example, Lorenzo reels off a set of names, which in
the USA are seen as typical Italian but in fact they seem to be strange distortions from some chef with a very vivid and misleading imagination. “ We debunk myths and we don’t only base this on the classical stereotypes – Boni emphasises – even the hamburger has a culture, obviously if it is done properly and certainly not how it is presented in the large fast food chains. America has a particular culture, a mix of tastes and traditions, of gastronomical mix ups that have generated some very interesting dishes. Nevertheless, when we touch upon the Italian food culture, there is no comparison. The important thing is to be clear, so that we can educate the public and get them to understand what the truth really is”. A very important concept if we consider that the Italian sounding brands cost Italy billions each year in lost revenue within the food sector and that some American manufacturers are flourishing, justified simply
Pears with spiced red wine.
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by using an “Italianised” label or the Italian flag, and flooding the market with products that have very little to do with the typical characteristics which portray our national food heritage. “I try to make it understood abroad – continues Boni – how a dish should be balanced, thought out with a certain logicality which often seems to be missing on the other side of the world. You cannot compare fontina cheese from Valle d’Aosta or Bronte’s pistachios from Sicily , likewise when planning a recipe you must, above all, have knowledge of the products. During my lessons I make the 300 or so students that I have in a lecture, taste parmesan and then the real Parmigiano Reggiano, to make them understand how the authenticity of an ingredient represents a treasure not to be underestimated. An in-depth knowledge of the raw materials is crucial for the career that they will embark upon”. Lorenzo Boni is an Ambassador of Taste and also an astute observer of the reality in which he has fallen into. In a world that is always more globalised, we often talk about the mixing of cultures and therefore of tastes. An idea which has seen a proliferation of places and gastronomic propositions that haven’t always turned out well. “You cannot think of coming to America and enforcing your own taste – remarks Boni – because the Americans have developed their own perception. Many people arrive here thinking that if the Americans eat hot-dogs then the ‘piadina romagnola’ (the thin flatbread typically prepared in the Romagna region, usually made with white flour, lard or olive oil, salt and water) is destined for success, but just as many have failed miserably. An American considers his sandwich as a container to fill with an unbelievable amount of condiments, and so the bread-wrap is seen as something poor and unappetising, compared to the Mexican burritos or the bulging sandwiches that they are used to and that they can’t even close on account of all the stuff they have put inside.” This warning goes to all the young Italians who, while still at school, dream of escaping the crisis stricken Italy to follow the American dream, almost taking it for granted that they will find money and fame. You need to effectively interpret Italian cuisine in an intelligent way, learning the culture of the country in which you are about to set up in. It is also true that the Americans love Italian food, if you listen to the description of the annual gathering in Miami, where Lorenzo and his brigade give over 30,000 people a taste of Barilla pasta with all its various sauces. An unmissable appointment on the calendar for many, where the simplicity of the dishes leads to a better understanding of them. Lorenzo however confesses that his great passion is pastries. He loves pastry making and he doesn’t shy away from preparing them. “ In America they love soft, light and airy pastries, ultra sugary, very fatty and very filled. For them dry pastries aren’t very
Cellentani with ham and peas.
logical, like tarts or the simple pastries that form part of our culture. They don’t even consider our sponge fingers or our almond ‘amaretti’ biscuits. You need only to think that Panettone has only just started to make way in these last few years and that most of the time they prefer to open it the day before and then eat it like French toast – toasted.” He continues “If we compare our gelato with their ice-cream, the differences leap out immediately on the palate. Theirs is extremely fatty, unbelievably sugary and with a blend of flavours that doesn’t allow you to identify any precise flavour. Ours is the exact opposite though. This doesn’t mean that there is no space for an Italian icecream parlour, but first we need to educate the customer and not think that all is owed to us or extremely straightforward. There are those who, like the ‘Paciugo franchising,’ have found the right mix, and now they have 120 stores, but you shouldn’t take it for granted that it’s that easy just from listening to other people’s stories. Lorenzo, who is used to talking to people and youngsters, puts lots of emphasis on this theme. He knows the easy enthusiasm, the initiative but also the superficiality which comes from a lack of experience. Furthermore, apart from being an inventor and creator for Barilla, he is also a lecturer and feels the responsibility to deliver the correct information. Likewise, it is also a considerable daily responsibility to bring dishes to the tables of millions of people who can influence the relationship between consumers and Italian products. It is a difficult job and one which must be carried out with diplomacy and strength and reminds him of his origins. “My grandfather was a baker and I have been passionate for oven baked products right from a very young age. I jealously guard my recipe for the yeast base starter as if it were a trea-
sure. My grandfather was forced to retire at 80 because he simply couldn’t accept the imposition of the electric oven over the wood burning one, which he had made bread with his entire life.” Lorenzo is not prepared to come to any sort of agreement with the ‘so-called dealers’ of fake Italian food : there must not be a cultural war, but we need to fight for the diffusion of the right proposals. Behind a sauce, even a simple one, Boni wants, first of all, to bring to light the centuries of agricultural traditions followed by the gastronomical culinary ones. And so, in his free time, which to be honest he doesn’t have a lot of, he prepares desserts and chocolates, being
prone to a sweet-tooth, but maybe also to sweeten his palate after having seen some of the ‘horrific gastro disasters’ of unknown origin but attributed to Italy. Deep down though, amongst the many fake heroes and saviours of the homeland, even a well-known chef can be a patriot, when his job has these consequences. And so, with these slightly philosophical reflections, which could also be a topic for discussion in Italy, we leave you here, to share a responsibility, be it with the saucepan or be it with the pen, which unites and brings us together. Matteo Barboni
Spaghetti with pomodorini (small tomatoes).
2014 - www.piwwe.com - n. 25
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NEWS
THE TOP MULTI-FUNCTION The success of the multi-function machines by STAFF Ice System goes on. Versatile, innovative, indestructible, easy to use and at the same time able to respond to the pastry chefs’ requests, they offer technological, exclusive solutions to pastry and gelato art. They are fit for creating mixes that need controlled heating and blending; they value the ingredients’ organoleptic properties because the pasteurisation cycle uses temperatures lower than the classic boiling method. The range includes machines producing from 5 up to 60 kg of custard cream per cycle. The models R51 and RT51, the smallest multi-function machines, are able to make batches up to 2 liters and to pasteurise and cook up to 5 liters. They are much appreciated by professionals producing high quality pastry or gelato, in catering companies and cooking schools. www.staff-ice.com
SÜDBACK IN GERMANY Südback is one of the most important trend trade fairs for the bakery and confectionery trade in Germany, organized by Messe Stuttgart in partnership with BÄKO, head office of southern Germany eG, the State Association of Guilds of Württemberg Bakers and the State Association of Guilds of Baden-Württemberg Confectioners. It is the hub for the exchange of ideas, information, as well as for the presentation of trends, developments and technical innovations. From 18 to 21 October, providers of raw materials and baking ingredients present new products, recipes and marketing concepts. The visitors can thus draw on ample resources: over 600 exhibitors have registered for the 25th anniversary event of südback. The bakers' forum and the confectioners' forum are extremely popular. Their high quality presentations and the baking demos attract many visitors. Innovative product developments are presented with the südback Trend Award with regard to technology, design and concept: innovative products, concepts or strategies which are on the market less than a year are awarded. The applications are evaluated by a professional jury; all companies from Germany and abroad are eligible to participate and the winners are presented at a top-class award ceremony. suedback.de
AN INNOVATIVE COATING LINE The innovative machine by Selmi was created to satisfy the ever increasing needs for multifunctional machines. It is entirely controlled via a touch screen and in one direction the cooling tunnel coats pralines, cakes, breadsticks, snacks, etc, with the same specifications as the previous coating devices. On a separate level it is also provided with a belt moving in the opposite direction within the cooling tunnel, which allows for the processing with an automatic transfert polycarbonate mould loader (external size 275 x 175 mm). This works by firstly running the products on the upper cooling level for 8 meters and then passing the moulds to the lower level, which brings them back to the starting point via the polycarbonate belt. The advantage is clear: this patented system transforms an 8 m covered tunnel into a 16 m one, hence doubling the cooling times, product quality and productivity. The installation of a detacher to the coating belt at the opposite side is recommended. www.selmi-chocolate.it
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italproget
italproget.it
layout.italproget.it
i feel food
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NEWS
FOR THE LOVE OF GIGI Manuale della panificazione italiana (Italian Breadmaking Manual) by Teresio Busnelli, Chiriotti Editori (351 pages with colour photos - Italian - €40 - also available in e-book version on shop.chirottieditori.it), is a book written by three people: the author is Busnelli, who has decades of knowledge and experience, and together with him there are two other key players: Enrico Vismara, who has patiently copied out all the recipes and knowledge of Busnelli and diligently photographed the finished products, and then there is the legendary Gigi, or rather “The Gigi” as the author affectionately calls him, having known each other for around 50 years. Gigi is his yeast base starter recipe, gleaned from an uncle who used to work at Motta (an historical Italian confectionery and gelato company, now a subsidiary of Nestlé), so that he could “steal” their recipes. All the other enjoyable details of this story can be read in the first part of the manual. In this book Teresio and Enrico have aimed for authenticity with a plain and straightforward text. A “tool” whereby readers might find a wide range of subject material to enable them to “fall in love” with this practice. The purpose is to recommend a way of getting good bread, one which fires up all our senses, not only taste and smell but also visual and auditory, such as when we crunch down on a crispy crust. Recipes are described in Busnelli’s simple and direct style and dedicated not only to bakers, but also to pastry chefs and restaurateurs. After the detailed in-depth technical analysis of the raw materials and the useful fault analysis, between problems and solutions, all of the recipes are divided up by the types of dough: with natural yeast, with the indirect method (or biga), with the direct method, focaccias, pizzas and sandwiches, and then to finish off cakes made with stale bread, a mark of great respect. A respect that you can also find in the souls of Teresio and Enrico, who in the spirit of sharing, of breaking the bread, have decided to donate all the proceeds from their author’s rights to Father Mushi’s Mission in Tanzania.
THE NOVELTIES OF THE YEAR In 2014 PreGel launched a variety of high-quality and innovative products for several product lines including Sprints, Arabeschi®, Gelato Bases and Granite. First, PreGel developed two Gelato bases: Angelica, a hot process base characterized by its excellent texture, and Fiorpanna 100, a cold process base that upholds the gelato perfectly in the display case. Moving on to the variegates, Arabeschi® Otto Caramel Biscotto is fit both as a decoration and as a paste for artisanal gelato, while Arabeschi® Re Nero boasts the authentic taste of extra-dark chocolate cookies and is perfectly paired with Re Nero Sprint gelato; Arabeschi® Cheesecake has the same flavor of the American Cheesecake biscuit base. Then there are the fruit-based Arabeschi®: Strawberry Extra, which is rich in fruit; Mango, which boasts an exotic flavor and contains ripe mango pieces, and the original Rhubarb. PinoPinguino Peanut is the fancy novelty: it is a rich sauce with crunchy peanuts.
The Sprint Line features the new and energizing Krypton Ice (energy drink taste), the refreshing Peach Tea and the juicy Pomegranate Sprint. As for the cold process flavors, PreGel has introduced a DOP Calabrian Liquorice powder, whereas Summer Ice is the new product line for creating Italian granite in five flavors, with a modern and trendy packaging. www.pregel.com
ORIGINAL TEXTURES FOR YULE LOGS Silikomart Professional presents the new kits for the making of original yule logs. They include the silicone mat Texture (280x185 h 6 mm) and the mould Bûche (250x90 h 70 mm), both in food safe 100% Made in Italy silicone, therefore fit for preparations that require both the use of the blast chiller and the oven. The available models are: Kit Wood, for innovative logs whose shapes reminds the bark and the veining of trees; Kit Arabesque, for floral motives; Kit Matelassè, for quilted weaves; Kit Pois, to liven up log surfaces with cascades of pois; Kit Vienna, which reminds the famous interlaced design, and Kit Coffee, for coffee bean textures. The mats are modular and their combination allows to obtain logs of different sizes. www.silikomart.com
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RECIPES
OBJECTIVE
restaurant desserts The best confectioner in Germany, Christian Hümbs stands out for his desire to experiment and for his attention to the smallest details “I like to show customers that the confectionery of today is able to express itself not just using classic elements”: with this introductory statement the personality of Christian Hümbs is described. Awarded as the best German confectioner, he has worked since 2010 as executive pastry chef of the multi-awarded 2 star Michelin La Mer Restaurant, inside the Grand Spa Resort A-Rosa in Sylt, Germand island in the North Sea. Originating from Oberhausen, Germany, he spent three years at a culinary school for pastry making and three years for cookery, following the German system; one day a week at school and the rest of the week working as an apprentice. In 2005 he started working at the 1 star Michelin establishment Johann Lafer Stromsburg in Stromberg, with the qualification of demi pastry chef, and then moved on to the 2 Michelin star Hotel Louis C. Jacob in Hamburg, where he gained the qualification of pastry chef, before working at the 3 star Aqua Restaurant of the Ritz Carlton, in Wolfsburg. Christian, a very close friend of our collaborator Martin Lippo, is always ready to try his hand, together with his colleagues, at developing new recipes for the restaurant industry. From these “crossroads of thoughts”, he has managed to elaborate interesting proposals, as regards both presentation and taste. At Sylt – which boasts the highest density of gourmet restaurants per square kilometre in all of Germany, where the most talented chefs experiment and offer dishes that are the latest trends – with humilty and discretion, Hümbs presents his Aroma-Menu, which ranges from spices to savoury, to vegetables, concentrating on the details. Together with the chef Sebastian Zier, they combine elegance and extravagance, as well as exemplary service.
Lingonberry, carrots, watercress, broccoli
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Lingonberry juice frozen lingonberries sugar water vanilla beans
g g g n
2,500 400 400 2
Boil water and sugar with the vanilla beans. Pour the liquid on the berries and cover it with foil (alu). Heat at 190°C for nearly 60 minutes. The complete mass must be warm, but not boiling.
Watercress sauce watercress ice cubes Xantana salt lemon oil
g g g g ml
150 120 0.3 3 60
g g
1,000 20
Mix the watercress, ice cubes, salt and Xantana for more than 2 minutes in a thermomix at level 10. Emulsify with lemon oil.
Baked carrots carrots grapeseed oil salt sugar
Wash the carrots well and rub oil around them. Add salt and sugar. Bake at 190°C for 50-60 minutes, turning them every 20 minutes.
Carrot meringues egg whites sugar carrot juice
g g g
125 175 50
Lingonberry cream lingonberry juice agar-agar lingonberry juice fruit acid caramel syrup
g g g g g
750 14 100 30 20
Lingonberry marmelade lingonberry juice glucose vanilla bean ascorbic acid wild berry liqueur
g g n g g
500 20 1 10 15
Mix everything and whip to obtain a light and soft consistence. Spread it on a Silpat mat and let it dry for 24 hours.
Boil the juice with the agar-agar and let it rest. When its solid and cold, mix in the Thermomix at level 10 and add the remaining juice. Let it rest again. Before usage, press it through a fine sieve.
Mix all ingredients, boil and let it reduce by half.
Red cabbage, poppy, chocolate Aerated chocolate Dulcey Valrhona cocoa butter
g g
400 140
Melt the Dulcey chocolate and cocoa butter and temperate it. Fill in a Isibottle. Load with 2 Isi capsules. Take a plastic box with crushed ice in it and spray the chocolate on it. Vacuum pack and let it rest till it’s frozen.
Cream ganache cream glucose Dulcey cocoa butter cream
g g g g g
500 14 430 14 300
Boil cream and glucose, dissolve chocolate and cocoa butter. Emulsify the cream with chocolate. Mix in the cold cream at last and let it cryztallize for minimum 6 hours. Blaze until you reach the right consistency.
Red cabbage marinade heads of red cabbage Port wine wine raspberry vinegar cider vinegar wine vinegar apple juice orange juice pineapple juice multi juice Glühfix bag cassis grated apples vanilla pod butter Glühfix spice bag cloves juniper berries fritters star anise coriander berries
n l l l l l l l l l n l n n g
6 3 3 1 0.75 0.3 1.5 1.5 0.5 0.5 1 0.75 10 1 500
n n n n
7 12 1.5 1.5
Mix the ingredients together and marinate the thinly sliced red cabbage in the liquid at least for 2 days. Drain in a sieve and cook the juice.
Poppy biscuit poppy backing cream sugar egg yolks whole eggs butter dark chocolate egg whites sugar ground poppy seeds flour
g g g g g g g g g g
215 50 100 70 50 75 125 75 40 40
Whip poppy paste, sugar, egg yolks and whole eggs. Whip sugar and egg whites and gradually mix with the egg yolk mixture. Mix the chocolate-butter mixture with the egg mixture. Spread a thin layer on a Silpat and bake at 210°C for about 5 minutes. Remove the mat, cool the biscuit, sprinkle it with ground poppy seeds and dry in the Excalibur food dehydrator.
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Christian Humbs La Mer Restaurant, Grand Spa Resort A-Rosa Sylt www.a-rosa.de/sylt
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NEWS
THE CULTURE OF ITALIAN GELATO AROUND THE WORLD Carpigiani is the leading manufacturer of machines that produce gourmet gelato. Gelato World Tour, organized by Carpigiani Gelato University in collaboration with IFI and Mec3, is the first competition having the goal of spreading gelato culture around the globe. This year, sixteen gelato artisans were selected at each stage and competed with handmade gelato flavors, combining tradition with innovation, and bringing out the taste of the best ingredients. The Tour visited Rome, Valencia, Melbourne, Dubai, Austin (TX) and Berlin. The top three flavor selected for each stage competed at the Grand Finale in September in Rimini, for the title of World s Best Gelato, which was won by Mandorla Affogato, a taste by John and Sam Crowl, “Cow and the Moon”, a gelato-coffee-dessert bar in Sydney, Australia. The Tour was a great success enhancing and spreading the value of artisan gelato around the world and another edition is scheduled for 2015-2016. Carpigiani Gelato University was established in 2003 as the educational division of Carpigiani. Today it is recognized internationally as a breeding ground for successful gelato entrepreneurs. Enrollments have increased exponentially over the years, students benefitting from the extensive training program, modern teaching methods, and a team of internationally renowned instructors. Last year (2012-2013) the school organized 400 courses in 10 languages, for a total of 15.000 class days. Increasingly more people and investors are looking to change their lives by opening a gelato shop, entrusting their training to the experienced instructors of Carpigiani Gelato University. The school’s headquarters are located in Anzola dell’Emilia, near Bologna, and training is carried out there and in other 11 campuses located throughout the world. On the heels of successful training seminars held in Dubai, Sao Paulo, and Kuala Lumpur, Carpigiani Gelato University schedules news courses in Algeria, Jordan, and Argentina. www.carpigiani.com - www.gelatouniversity.com
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WHITE COLOR AND HIGH STABILITY UNDER “CLEAN LABEL” Ken Nata 38% C/F (carrageenan free) by Ken is a fat cream obtained from cow milk with 0% additives and therefore a clean label product. Ken cream 38% C/F has the highest organoleptic and functional quality for professional use. It stands out for the absence of syneresis, its great stability and above-average consistency. It provides a full dairy taste and excellent creaminess to any dessert and gelato. It is packaged in 1 litres Tetra Square. www.skisa.com
I feel happy and comfortable at südback. aft! Here it is still all about handicr le, Kar Oliv er End le, Con fise rie End
lsru he
‹
Confectionery is an extremely fine handicraft. Heartfelt craftsmanship and patience are part and parcel of day-to-day operations. In our work we traditionally work according to our own select recipes. We use state-of-the-art, environmentally-compatible technology. At südback I receive competent advice. Here I also meet colleagues for discussions or to exchange ideas. What I particularly like is the Confectioners’ Trend Forum. There I can keep a close eye on colleagues. südback 2014 – the anniversary
18–21 Oct. 2014 Messe Stuttgart | Visit www.suedback.de for more information
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the inimitable multi-functional assistant becomes Organize your production and processes with flexibility 24 hours a day.
MyA is the new touch screen interface for MultiFreshŽ multi-function blast chillers that makes using the machine even easier and more intuitive. The icons guide you through the numerous functions with a wide choice of cycles designed to preserve the fragrance, flavour and aroma of each item. Full customization is possible only with MyA: it’s easy to vary the parameters for each cycle and create the ideal process for every product.
www.irinoxprofessional.com
PARTNER Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie 2015
THERE ARE MANY TOOLS TO EXPRESS YOUR OWN
PARTNER OF
//BRAVOSPA
CREATIVITY...
...FOR THE ARTISTS OF CHOCOLATE, THERE’S K24 EVO.
BRAVO SPA Montecchio Maggiore (VI) Italy Tel. 0039.0444.707.700 info@bravo.it
bravo.it
K24 EVO is the sophisticated and versatile Bravo chocolate tempering machine which allows you to set free your creativity and turn it into chocolate products.