Pasticceria Internazionale WWE 42 2023 by CHIRIOTTI EDITORI srl

SUPPLEMENTO AL N. 342, 340, GENNAIO OTTOBRE 2022 2023 DI PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE - SPED. IN A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (CONV. IN L. 27/02/2004 N° 46) ART. 1, COMMA 1, DCB TO - N. 01/2023 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718

PA S T RY B A K E RY C O F F E E C U I S I N E

A SUBLIME TASTE WITH LEONARDO DI CARLO THE RETURN OF PANDORO JOB THETHE FASCINATING OF THE CANDY ALL ABOUT CONFECTIONER CHOCOLATE GELATO FROM SURPRISING THE VEGETABLE VEGETABLES GARDEN A UNIQUE THE ROULÉ ROYAL BY CHEESE FACTORY GIANLUCA MANNORI MOKA, AN INTERNATIONAL EVERGREEN 20TH PARALLEL NORTH

issue forty-two-2023 forty-two-2022

10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA wwww.piwwe.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it wwww.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it

THE DOLCE WORLD EXPO

21-25 JAN 2023 PAD A5 STAND 161

con

I SIGNORI DELLA CREMA

robocream.com

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- golden Italy

In this issue

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it www.pasticceriainternazionale.com

A sublime taste

The fascinating job

14 19 24

Editor-in-chief Livia Chiriotti Senior Editor Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti News editors Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino Web editor Chiara Mancusi Marketing manager Monica Pagliardi Advertising Luca Russo Art director Anna Boscolo Printed by Graf Art - Venaria, To

of the candy confectioner Roulé Royal The origins of Pan dell’Orso From the vegetable garden

and the orchard

News

The future of flour Sweet spring Hofex in Hong Kong The 20th anniversary of the CGU Lemon flavoured sweetness Empowering pastry chefs to reduce food waste with culinary creativity

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright © 2023 All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house

Five organic flours Natural packaging

Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 342 - 2023

Never stop creating

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A new chocolate for coating

ON OUR COVER ROULÉ ROYAL Gianluca Mannori photo Giancarlo Bononi

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Alessandro Dalmasso € 65,00 - app € 32,99 Antonio Bachour € 55,00 - app € 19,99 Leonardo Di Carlo € 130,00 - app € 64,99

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the cocoa touch ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A sublime TASTE

Starting from the recipe of the small cake Sublime, Leonardo Di Carlo gives some hints about the use of cocoa and chocolate in doughs and creams

Let’s start immediately from the first element of the Sublime small cake, i.e. the chocolate shortcrust pastry base. The ideal quantity of cocoa should range between 3.5% and 4.5% of the total mass and it should not be exceeded in order to avoid bitterness, which would not be much appreciated by children or elderly people who do not like strong flavours. If the quantity of cocoa is higher, it would be better to balance it with a higher quantity of sugar as well. Otherwise, a slightly more bitter pastry can be combined with a sweet element, such as white chocolate or caramel. In this case it is preferable to use cocoa instead of dark chocolate, because shortcrust pastry is not very elastic due to the presence of cocoa butter in chocolate, which crystallizes during cooling/hardening in the fridge. As for the cremeux, it is better to use dark chocolate (60/70%). Here the presence of cocoa butter becomes an advantage WWW.PASTICCERIAINTERNAZIONALE.COM

because it gives greater stability to the whole thanks to the dry cocoa extract. A more solid structure allows the mixture to be whipped in a planetary mixer and the cream is therefore very soft, neither too sweet nor too bitter, and very pleasant to the palate. Cocoa is an excellent ingredient in cooked products and can be used in doughs for cakes, shortcrust pastry, whipped masses... It is used raw as it is only in desserts such as tiramisù, where it is sprinkled on the surface. In creams, it is better to choose a good chocolate. Being lactose-free, the soft hazelnut biscuit is fit for mini cakes made in silicone molds. The same recipe is also perfect for pistachio or salted peanut versions. Just replace the hazelnut paste in the recipe and it’s done!

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the cocoa touch -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SUBLIME

Heat a saucepan well, pour in the sugar a little at a time and let it melt gently, then dilute with the boiling cream and glucose. Combine butter and vanilla bean, emulsify and set aside. Store in the fridge in an airtight container (81°Bx). DARK CHOCOLATE CREMEUX whole milk. . . . . . . rice starch. . . . . . . glucose powder 30DE. 60% dark chocolate. . 82% mg butter. . . . . gelatin. . . . . . . . . . total. . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . .

. 50.20 . 5.02 . 5.52 . 28.61 . 10.04 . 0.60 100.00

weight 500 g 50 g 55 g 285 g 100 g 6g 996 g

Cook the first three ingredients until boiling. Remove from the heat, combine the rest of the ingredients and emulsify well with a hand blender. Refrigerate at +4°C for 24 hours before use. Whip the mass in the planetary mixer until it reaches the right consistency to be used in a sac à poche. SOFT HAZELNUT BISCUIT

% whole eggs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.22 granulated sugar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.01 fine salt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 hazelnut paste. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15.61 sunflower oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.41 flour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.41 potato starch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.20 baking powder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.04 total. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100.00

weight 600 g 500 g 2g 300 g 200 g 200 g 100 g 20 g 1922 g

Assemble the first 3 ingredients, then add the hazelnut paste mixed with the oil and, immediately afterwards, the sifted flours. Spread 1000 g of the mixture on a 40x60 pan. Convection oven: 190°C. Time: 10 minutes approx. Valve: closed.

Assembly Roll out the shortcrust pastry to 3.5 mm, put it in the proper molds and cook at 150°C for 18 minutes, valve open. Unmold and waterproof the surface with some melted cocoa butter. Spread a light layer of caramel and successively the hazelnut biscuit, the caramel and the cremeux. Decorate and refrigerate at +4°C. Leonardo Di Carlo pastryconcept.com photos Giancarlo Bononi

CHOCOLATE SHORTCRUST PASTRY SABLÉ plain flour.. . . . . . . cocoa 22/24. . . . . . . 82% fat butter (soft). . fine salt. . . . . . . . . vanilla bean.. . . . . . icing sugar. . . . . . . whole eggs. . . . . . . total. . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . .

. 42.15 . 4.09 . 26.01 . 0.19 . 0.10 . 20.23 . 7.23 100.00

weight 497 g 48 g 307 g 2g 1g 239 g 85 g 1180 g

Mix all the ingredients in a planetary mixer to obtain a thicken dough. Let it rest in the fridge before use. CARAMEL

% granulated sugar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.07 35% fat liquid cream. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30.06 glucose syrup 60DE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25.05 82% fat butter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.52 vanilla bean.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 total. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100.00

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weight 350 g 300 g 250 g 95 g 3g 998 g

THE BOOKS BY LEONARDO DI CARLO PUBLISHED BY CHIRIOTTI EDITORI ARE AVAILABLE ON SHOP.CHIRIOTTIEDITORI.IT

THE FIRST MICRO-PERFORATED BAKING PAPER Micropaper is the new micro-perforated baking paper, developed from an idea of Master Pastry Chef Giuseppe Gagliardi, ideal for baking all leavened doughs, as well as puffs, shortcrust pastry, biscuits, puff pastry and meringues. Micropaper guarantees perfect baking in less time than traditional baking paper.

MADE IN ITALY

@MARTELLATO_OFFICIAL

MARTELLATO.COM

SCAN ME

news----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The future of flour MIA flours by Agugiaro & Figna Molini are obtained through a patented process called Authentic Integrated Grinding which combines the advantages of the two best-known methods – stone-grinding and progressive cylinder-grinding – with a previous and calibrated husking of wheat grains. Wholemeal and semi-wholemeal flours with precise grain size show constant and stable performance and an above-average shelf life, in compliance with the grain native characteristics: intense flavors and aromas, and high degree of hygiene and healthiness.

MIA range of flours includes flours and semolina for pizza, bread-making, and pastry-making; the aromatic bouquet of these flours fully reveals the high quality of the selected wheat, while Authentic Integrated Grinding process preserves all their different shades. These flours are the result of the R&D research work and tests concerning performance, stability, and consistency. MIA X, MIA M, MIA S are Type 1 soft wheat flours with different protein values; MIA GRA is made with 100% Italian Ancient Grains grown between the provinces of Parma and Cremona, while MIA SEI is a durum whole wheat re-milled semolina. agugiarofigna.com

Hofex in Hong Kong Debuted in 1987, HOFEX has been taking the F&B and hospitality industries on numerous journeys of culinary delicacies from all over the world, bringing the most comprehensive selection of food & drinks, hospitality equipment & supplies products to Asia. Over the years, the exhibition has gradually become a global sourcing powerhouse, connecting F&B professionals from around the world to drive positive changes. In the midst of pandemic, it has led F&B peers to push through adversity by creating global trade opportunities for over

1,000 brands and exhibitors, as well as more than 21,000 visitors, proving its irreplaceable role and influence in the F&B and hospitality industries. From 10 to 12 May at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, HOFEX is again expected to line up international exhibitors and brands with trade buyers to rebuild ties, catch up on new trends and innovate. Covering sectors such as food & drinks, meat, bakery & confectionery, coffee, foodservice equipment & supplies, tableware & hospitality supplies and hospitality technology, the expo will offer a world stage of innovation. In addition to F&B product showcase, HOFEX is also a cradle of ideas and talents, with an array of events held throughout the three days. Hong Kong International Culinary Classic (HKICC) will bring together a star-studded lineup of chefs to unveil the next culinary trend and food masterpieces. Endorsed by World Association of Chef’s Societies (WACs) and co-organised with the Hong Kong Chefs Associations (HKCA), the competition will see over 300 chefs, cooks, pastry chefs and apprentices to showcase their skills and creativity in categories such as Afternoon Tea Set, Pastry, Chinese & Western Cuisine. hofex.com

Sweet spring For Spring Martellato offers new thematic polycarbonate moulds for Valentine’s Day, Mother’s and Father’s Day chocolate products, from Teddy bears to flower-shaped pralines to Snapback hat. The Special Days moulds belong to the Supreme range, which includes polycarbonate moulds manufactured in Italy for artisan production, designed to satisfy the needs of professionals through high quality standards and highly productive items. Their smooth surface gives maximum gloss, for amazing results. martellato.it

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CMY

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The fascinating job

OF THE CANDY CONFECTIONER Hard, poured, molded and filled candies; jellies, fondants, gummies; toffee, marshmallows; sugared almonds, dragées, nougats… Sugar in all its wonderful variations, masterfully shaped by Mauro Morandin in his new book

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new books -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

has nurtured an unceasing passion for confectionery, studying and shaping sugar, and more, in all its facets. In his laboratory in SaintVincent he honors the profession of confectioner and candy maker every day, proud to pass on his knowledge to colleagues and young people (and carefully fixing his equipment and machines).

ATTREZZATU

RE E MACCHINE

There is a precise moment in which it all began. We were at the Salobe del Libro in Torino, at a lunch with all of our authors. At the end, after the dessert, pastry chef Mauro Morandin announced: “Now it’s time to write my book. I feel ready!”. It was May 10, 2019. In reality, due to the vicissitudes that we all know well, the writing work

rihinette comp si trovano macczucchero a velo, In commercio re lo , a comprime inaia di euro mitrici atte di poche cent per volta, con hanno un costo di una compressa ma stampano e ridicole, quindi il costo hiproduzioni orari notevolmente. Le macc se sale molto costo produzione industriali sono i orarie notevone continue uzion ti, con prod a mone ingombran a bisogna approntare, ntare la li, quindi prim mescolatori per alime i aue te, dosatrici e, a valle, confezionatric ta di rice to caso diven comprimit lavoro in ques tomatiche. Il . tipo industriale

Per il torrone

capitolo 3

con a planetaria nte; rre di una buon È bene dispo per contenere acqua bolle con o già costruite doppio fond hine erano nte le vecchie macc per produrre agevolme Ǡŧх ssori Ɓŧưŧ tutti gli acce ƎхŶхşƎɫŘƎƥŧхǵǠƺȔļǠưŧхşŧƥх .I ata la domanda , ƎƥхǵƺǠǠƺưŧϭх ƁƁ taria tempo è scem visto che nel nte lo preparano in plane cornon sove ri do iccie meto , past e zucchero tericuocendo miele un prodotto con le carat proe retto se si vuole torrone, con le giust buon guata shelf life. stiche di un olettiche e l’ade prietà organ in le, oggi come i anche picco di svariate misuPer produzion torroniere iera ono man in esist passato, il torrone di lavorare soddisfacente re, in grado ere un prodotto dotate corretta e otten i di vista. Esse sono punt perfetsotto tutti i o termostatato per una braccio, di doppio fond della temperatura e il e sistema ta regolazion ta, è provvisto di un ere che gira e mon lbero fermo, per non romp ļưŧхşŧƥƥļх ƥļȔƺǠ di sgancio dell’a хƎưǨŧǠƎǵļхļƥƥļхɭ ƥļхƀǠǽǵǵļхǨŧŘŘļ io inox telai in accia zione. massa re avere dei Occorre inolt contenere la senda tali i delle dimensiono produrre; per spianarla matteche desideriamio munirsi di un pesante ne non za fatica, megl essendo freddo, il torro rello d’acciaio: copre già si appiccica. la taglierina picco una , Per il taglio produzione. una discreta

DURE LE CARAMELLE 74

and we are sure that the chocolatier confectioners, in particular, will greatly appreciate the chapters on dragées and nougats... Throughout this colorful journey, in which perceptions are acquired

Rosoli zucchero acqua alcolato 70°

g 700 g 210 vol. g 200 Portare a bollo re aggiungere l’alco zucchero e acqua, poi a caldo lato e colare. L’alcol un po’ evapora, ma è tutto calco Se si vuole lato. cambiare ricett rare che l’acq a, ua tiene in sosp occorre considedel suo peso ensione il dopp di zucchero io e che è solubile in alcol, ma nell’a lo zucchero non esso. cqua contenuta in Quindi, se si cambia grada occorre tener zione dell’alcola e conto dell’a to, se si usa un cqua. Per esem alcolato a 50° pio, sogna toglie re 40 g di acqual posto di 70°, bisciogliere lo a dalla ricett zucc qua è già nell’a hero, perché la resta a per nte acsi ottengono lcolato. Solo con questo rosoli con la calcolo crosta semp Ǩļх ǽƁǽļƥŧϭх Tưх re spes ŘļǨƺх ŘƺưǵǠļǠƎƺϮх che risultino ǨƎх ŘƺǠǠŧх Ǝƥх ǠƎǨŘƉ tropp Ǝƺх ǵǠƺǝǝƺхɭưŧхǝŧǠх o pieni, oppure con la crosta ǝƺǵŧǠƥƎхǽƥǵƎƮļǠŧ хŧхȔŧưşŧǠŧϭ

” 42

Zuccherini

Sciogliere a bagnomaria: gomma arab ica g 500 acqua g 750 quando è sciol ta, pesare: zucchero g 1000 gomma arab ica sciolta g aromi e colo 75 ri a piace re

Mescolare il tutto con una deve essere frusta, lo zucc appena umid o e rimanere hero stalli. Quindi, in crimani, riempire stendendo lo zucchero con leggera press gli stampi di silicone. Fare le ione con la una man ǝŧǠх ŘƺƮǝļǵǵļǠ ŧх ƥƺх ȥǽŘŘƉŧǠƺ o sullo stampo smodellare ϭх Tƥх ƁƎƺǠưƺх şƺǝƺ le х asciugare anco forme dal silicone, lasciare stufa a 35°/4 ra una giornata, meglio 0°C. se in Potete usare svariate form Babbi Natale, e, foglie, mezz come piccoli pini, ricini... e averl e sfere, stell e, Confezionateli i pronti per le varie ricor cuorenze. fan o in scato a piacere in sacchetti di le in polipropil cello ene per alime nti.

112

It is the duty of those who write and those who edit professional books to offer not only reliable and replicable recipes and methods, but also tools for historical and cultural study that increase the awareness - and also the pride - of what one does every day, of one’s job

1870 Taglierina del

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COMPORTAM ENTO DELLO ZUCCHERO IN COTTURA

Sotto l’azione chero si conce del calore lo sciroppo di zucntra gradualme un aspetto nte, assumendo diver ne, che aume so secondo la conce ntrazionta ratura. Per stabi all’aumentare della temp to si può quindlire il grado di cottura raggiu ei ricorrere nma l’aspetto visivo è cruci a vari termometri, ale.

in gramatici sono impianti auto Ovviamente velocemente. a mano ma, con do di agire più essere eseguito si può dotare di ci L’incarto può investimento, zionare note confe un modesto di in grado si può una ɮƺȕхǝļŘƢ produzione; soprattutto şƎɪŧdi Řƺưх ưƺǵŧȔƺƥƎх voli volumi ļǵƺϮх ļưŘƉŧх e senza ŘļƮŗƎļǠŧх ƀƺǠƮ con pochissimo sforzo , renze di peso o. ente perdita di temp invece hanno costi veram fori io Le incartatric e se predisposte al camb o gli uarlo apportand sua elevati e, anch semplice adeg forma ha la mato, non è tri. Quindi, ogni zzino opportuni regis i suoi incarti, che a maga con titi. e incartatric di soldi inves o in termini pesano molt

Per le compresse

1950 Torroniera del

ƺưхǨƎхǝǽǈхǝļ şŧƥƥļхŘƺǵǵǽǠļхşŧ ǠƥļǠŧхşƎхŘļǠļƮŧƥƥŧхǨŧхǝ ǠƎƮļ ƥƥƺхȥǽŘŘƉŧǠƺϮ ưŧƥƥļхǵŧƮǝŧ хǝŧǠŘƉŨхļưŘƉ хưƺưхǨƎхļɪǠƺưǵļхƎƥхǵŧƮ Ǡļǵǽ ļх ŧхǨƺƥƺхͳҾϺʹҾ ļưŘƉŧхƎƥхǵŧƮǝ ǠļхǝƺǨǨƺưƺхŘƺƮǝǠƺƮ хşƎхşƎɪŧǠ ŧǵǵŧǠŧхƥļхşǽǠ ļǵļхşŧƎхǝǠƺş ŧưȥļх ǵŧƮǝŧǠļǵǽǠļ ƺхƎƮǝƎŧƁļǵƺхşļƥхŘļǠļƮŧƥ ƺǵǵƎϭх.х хƎưɮǽƎǨŘŧхǝƺ ƥƺхǝŧǠхļǠǠƎȔļ ǨƎǵƎȔļƮŧưǵŧх Ǡŧхļşхǽưļхşŧ TưǨƺƮƮļϮхƥЩƎ ƺхưŧƁļǵƎȔļƮŧ ưȔŧǠǨƎƺưŧхşŧ ǵŧǠƮƎưļǵļх ƁƥƎхȥǽŘŘƉŧǠƎхş ŘƺưƀŧǵǵƎŧǠŧϭх ưǵŧхǨǽƥƥļхşǽǠ ļǵļϭ ŧȔŧхşƎȔŧưǵļǠ ŧхƥļхǵŧƮǝŧ ŧхƎƥхƮļưǵǠļхşŧ ǠļǵǽǠļхŶхƎưƀŧ ƥх ǠƎƺǠŧ ļưŘƺǠļхļŘǟǽ ļϮхǟǽƎưşƎхƥļхŘļ хļхǟǽŧƥƥļхŘƺǠǠŧǵǵļϮхƥƺ хȥǽŘ ŘļǨƺхŘƺưǵǠļǠ ƎƺϮхǟǽļưşƺхƥ ǠļƮŧƥƥļхǠƎǨǽƥǵļхƮƺǠŗƎşļхŧ ŘƉŧǠƺхŘƺưǵƎŧưŧх ļхǵŧƮǝŧǠļǵǽ ЉȔŧşƎх ļǝϭхʹЊ хǨƎхļǵǵļŘŘļхļ ǠļхŶхǨǽǝŧǠƎƺ хŧхƥŧхŘļǠļƮŧ Ǝхşŧ ưǵƎϰхưŧƥх ǠŧϮхƥ ƥƥŧхǨƎхǨŘƎƺƥƁƺ ƎưȔŧǠǵƎǵƺхŶхƮ ưƺхƎưхƀǠŧǵǵļϮх ƺхȥǽŘŘƉŧǠƺхǨƎхƎưȔŧǠǵŧх ƺƥǵƺ ǝŧǠŘƉŨхƥƺхȥǽ ŘŘƺǠǠŧхǟǽƎưşƎх хƎƁǠƺǨŘƺǝƎŘƺϭ ŘŘƉŧǠƺх ƮǽưƎǠǨƎхşƎхǽư ƀļǠŧхƮƺƥǵļхļ хŗǽƺưхǵŧǠƮƺ ǵǵŧưȥƎƺưŧхļư ƮŧǵǠƺϮхƮļхưƺ ŘƉŧхļƥƥļхǝǠŧǨ ŘƎŧƥƺхļǝŧǠǵƺϮх ưхŗļ Ǩǵļϯ хŗƎǨƺƁưļх ǨƎƺưŧхļǵƮƺǨ ļşхŧǨŧƮǝƎƺϮх ƀŧǠƎŘ ƁƎƺǠưƺхşЩƺƁƁ ƎϮхƺŘŘƺǠǠŧхŧǨ ǨƺưƺхǨƺƁƁŧǵǵŧхļхǟǽŧǨǵƺхƀļ ļϭхhŧхŘƺǵǵǽǠŧхļх ǨŧǠŧхƮƺƥǵƺхŧ ǝǠļǵƎŘļϮхŧǨǨŧ ǵǵƺǠŧϮхǟǽƎưşƎϮ ǨǝŧǠ ưşƺ хļưŘƉŧхļƥх ƺŘŘƉƎƺϮхƎưхǟǽļ хǽǵƎƥŧхǨļǝŧǠхȔļƥǽǵļǠŧхƥļхǵ ǵƎхŧşхļȔŧǠŧхļŘǟǽƎǨƎǵƺхǽưļ ƥŧǵǵƎхǨǽƥхǵŧǠƮ ưǵƺхưƺưхǨŧƮǝǠŧхƎхŘļưƺưƎŘ ŧƮǝŧǠļǵǽǠļхşƎхŘƺǵǵǽǠļхļư хŗǽƺưļх ƺƮŧǵǠƺхŘƺǠǠƎǨ ƎхͳͶʹҾ хЉŘƺǵǵǽ ŘƉŧхļşх ƮƺǵƎȔƺхŘƉŧхǠ ǝƺư ǠļхļƥƥļхŘļǠļƮ şƺưƺхǠŧļƥƮ ŧưşŧхƎưşƎǨǝŧ ưǨļŗƎƥŧхƥЩļŘǟǽ ŧưǵŧхļхǟǽŧƥƥļхǵŧƮǝŧǠļǵǽ ŧƥƥļЊх ƎǨƎȥƎƺưŧхşƎхǵļ ưǵļхǝǠļǵƎŘļϭ ǠļϮх

I PRODOTTI COLATI

dreamer, since he was a child Mauro Morandin

chapter on sugar cooking and then the 135 recipes, divided into hard candies, poured, soft, pastilles, tablets, sugared almonds and all their variants. We focus on the complex production technology

capitolo 4

A passionate and meticolous artisan and a

started in spring 2021, intensifying in ‘22 and crossing with that of the photographer, Giancarlo Bononi, and the sweet stylist, Vilmer Amadini, between the town of Saint-Vincent in Valle d’Aosta, where the Morandin pastry shop is located, Bologna, where the photographic studios are located, and Pinerolo, the headquarters of our publishing house Chiriotti Editori and of Taurinense, the graphic agency that oversaw the project, thanks to Arianna Boccassini and Alessandro Camardo. The drafting required to bring order between theoretical and practical, chemical and scientific notions; production methodologies; explanatory recipes, history and traditions to codify a wealth of knowledge and unique experiences, the result of an expertise cultivated over decades of study, comparison, listen and innovative tensions, combined with the profound spirit of sharing that characterizes Mauro and which led him to shape this book of ancient and contemporary recipes, capable of revealing and delivering to the future the immense heritage of the confectioner and caramelist figure, the authentic pride of Italian confectionary culture. What transpires from Mauro’s story is a passion born in the laboratory, developed on the school benches, and expanded in contact with great masters, who meant a real initiation for him. And it is in the memory of his mentors that he addresses young student-apprentices and colleagues, so that this ancient but full of modernity craft can be handed down. The author accompanies the reader to rediscover the processes that are still valid and profitable, a source of satisfaction, which allow the craftsman to express his personality and to vary his offer. The book allows total immersion in the world of confectionery and precisely in the more specialized branch of the caramelist-confectioner, through the treatment of raw materials, machinery and equipment, followed by an in-depth

capitolo 6

serva latura iola n dell’ar strato velo. A 101°C e

F gimento Si ricon roppo tr e stacca ǽưхɭƥƺϭхh

Piu che lo zu precauzio torno del ƮļƎƺƥļхưŧ attraverso ǨǝļǠŧưǵƎϭхh è 36°Bé.

Past ȥǽŘŘƉŧǠƺхǵ si vede che granire.

Picco la concentra pesa-scirop p to. Quindi s mergendo un zucchero e i ǟǽļϭх хǟǽŧǨǵƺ ma si forma trasparente.

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LE CARAMELLE DURE

arrived in Europe, half a millennium before the arrival of that from the New World, and the historical introduction helps to underline the social, commercial and artistic role of these craftsmen through the centuries, up to the dawn of this ancient art, which is an all-Italian practice. The research work that led to this part involved Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti and myself, as had already been done the history of pastry, unique in its kind, contained in Leonardo Di Carlo’s first book “Tradition in

Caramelle effervescenti

rŧǨŘƺƥļǠŧхƎхşǽŧхƎưƁǠŧşƎŧưǵƎϭх La copertura è una cotta aromatizzata al gusto dell’alcolato.

Per la copertura preparare 10 kg di cotta aromatizzata al limone o all’arancio. Per il ripieno mescolare:

zucchero a velo 2 kg ŗƎŘļǠŗƺưļǵƺхşƎхǨƺşƎƺхххх 1,2 kg ,1 ļŘƎşƺхŘƎǵǠƎŘƺхƎưхǝƺƥȔŧǠŧххххххххххххххххххххххххͳ kg Il tutto ben mescolato in planetaria. Attenzione: durante la lavorazione non fate assolutamente prendere umidità al ripieno, altrimenti avviene una reazione che fa scoppiare le caramelle.

Caramelle al liquore In passato andavano di moda le caramelle ripiene di liquore, molto complicate da eseguire, anche con le dovute attrezzature. Per realizzarle a mano è indispensabile disporre di un tavolo caldo inclinabile che permetta di cambiare l’inclinazione, impedendo la fuoriuscita del liquido all’interno del foglio di zucchero. In realtà oggi questi tavoli sono molto rari da reperire, perché non si producono più da decenni.

g ļƥŘƺƥļǵƺхļх͹ͲҾхȔƺƥϭхххххххххххххххххххххххххххххххххх͵͹ͷ kg zucchero 2 kg glucosio 1 g acqua 0,6 Per facilitare il lavoro aggiungere 2 g cremar tartaro. ǽƺŘŧǠŧх ļх ͳͶʹҾϺͳͶͷҾ ϭх ƺƥļǠŧх şǽŧх ƀƺƁƥƎх şƎх zucchero dentro i telai. Quando lo zucchero è diventato plastico, con l’aiuto di spessori, tenerlo incavato. Versare il liquido del ripieno, cambiando l’inclinazione del tavolo per non farlo uscire dal foglio. Formare un cilindro chiudendo bene le estremità. Rivestire con l’altro foglio di zucchero. Formare un cono rollando con le mani sul taȔƺƥƺхŘļƥşƺϮхɭưƺхļşхļǠǠƎȔļǠŧхļхƀƺǠƮļǠŧхǽưхŘƎƥƎưşǠƺхşƎхŘƎǠŘļхͳͷхƮƮхşƎхşƎļƮŧǵǠƺϭхTưхǟǽŧǨǵƺхŘļǨƺх è indispensabile possedere la pressa idonea per caramelle. Se tagliate con le forbici il ripieno esce. Stampare alla pressa e incartare dopo raffreddamento. Il lavoro è più semplice e veloce adoperando una rollatrice con pompa e stampatrice.

capitolo 5

Per il ripieno: ļƥŘƺƥļǵƺхļх͹ͲҾхȔƺƥϭхххххххххххххххххххххххххххххххххххх͵͹ͷ g ȥǽŘŘƉŧǠƺхƎưȔŧǠǵƎǵƺ ŘƺǵǵƺхļхͳͳͳҾ ххххххххххххххххххххххххххххххххͺͲͲ g

ͳͲ͸

PASTIGLIE E COMPRESSE

with practice, observation and commitment, the Author reveals how to be in tune with what is produced, urges us to pay attention to the noise of the pan, to analyze the nuances of color, to slide, almost to caress the sugared almonds, to perceive the perfumes and to taste critically. As a long-time confectioner, he puts himself in the role of the neophyte, gives him advice, warns him against mistakes, remembering that quality is not obtained only with the help of quality raw materials, but also through processing methods that enhance the characteristics and do not destroy the properties. Time is often one of

LA CONFETTERIA ARTIGIANALE arte e scienza del caramellista Mauro Morandin available in Italian 222 pages, 135 recipes Photos by Giancarlo Bononi € 85 – shop.chiriottieditori.it

Pastiglie Brutti e buoni zucchero a velo gelatina gomma adragante cacao magro in polvere zucchero caramello liquirizia sciolta

kg kg kg kg g kg

estratto puro di vaniglia olio essenziale anice anetolo

g g g

in proporzione 1 kg di liquirizia e 700 g acqua

sciolto in poco alcol

66 1,8 2,5 1,5 200 2,5 5 200 50

Procedere come nella ricetta impasto per stampatrice. Per preparare lo zucchero caramello si scioglie a secco 1 kg di zucchero e, sotto continuo mescolamento, lo si fa caramellare. Quando raggiunge il colore scuro, toglierlo dal fuoco e unire 300 g di acqua bollente molto delicatamente, altrimenti schizza tutto e si rischia di bruciarsi in maniera seria. Dopo che l’acqua è stata mescolata e si è fermata la cottura, si ricomincia a cuocere e, con il termometro, si porta il caramello a 111°C. Conservare in un contenitore e usare all’occorrenza. I brutti e buoni hanno forma rotonda di circa 10 mm di diametro e uno spessore di circa 4 mm. $ƎхǨƺƥƎǵƺϮхǨǽƥƥļхǨǽǝŧǠɭŘƎŧϮхşǽǠļưǵŧхƥƺхǨǵļƮǝļƁƁƎƺх vengono incise delle righe.

Pastiglie di Vichy ƺưƀŧȥƎƺưļǵŧх ɭưх şļƥх ͳͺʹͷх ưŧƥƥļх ŘŧƥŧŗǠŧх ŘƎǵǵōх termale francese, sono rinfrescanti, molto apprezzate dall’imperatrice Eugenia, consorte di Napoleone III. zucchero a velo 6 kg gelatina sciolta 100 g gomma adragante sciolta g 370 gomma arabica sciolta 270 g bicarbonato di soda 300 g fecola di patate 200 g Con forma ovale o ottagonale, e 2 g di peso, vengono di solito profumate alla menta, all’anice, all’arancia, al limone. capitolo 8

the most important elements at our disposal to improve what nature gives us, together with working with awareness, following the right methodology and using the most suitable equipment and machines for the idea of craftsmanship. Although it is written in Italian, we still recommend immersing yourself in the pages and in the technical nature of the contents that go beyond the linguistic limits, also thanks to the very evocative images. And we also invite you to pay particular attention to the first chapter, the one on history, full of food for thought. Sugar confectionery and processing were the first activities of the confectioner, since sugar

154

Pastiglie al mentolo

Pastiglie alla menta

Il mentolo è una sostanza vegetale contenuta all’interno delle foglie di menta, ha proprietà antisettiche ed è usato come decongestionante delle vie nasali.

La menta è uno stimolante delle funzioni gastriche; ha proprietà antisettiche, antispaǨƮƺşƎŘƉŧхŧхǵƺưƎɭŘļưǵƎϭ

zucchero a velo kg gomma adragante sciolta kg gomma arabica sciolta g gelatina sciolta g olio essenziale di eucalipto g mentolo cristalli g (sciolto in poco alcool)

acido citrico g soluzione 50% ŘƺƥƺǠŧхȔŧǠşŧхŘƥƺǠƺɭƥƥļхŘƉƎļǠƺ

60 1,3 800 750 155 180 150

La forma di solito è ovale con peso di 2 g circa. Come al solito, stendere le caramelle su cassette e passare in essiccatoio per il tempo necessario alla perfetta asciugatura. Prima del confezionamento, tutti i pastigliaggi vanno passati al vapore.

Pastiglie al tamarindo La polpa dei frutti di tamarindo è impiegata nella medicina popolare come rimedio per contrastare la costipazione e per il trattamento dei disturbi di fegato. Il frutto è ricco şƎхǨļƥƎхƮƎưŧǠļƥƎϮхȔƎǵļƮƎưŧхŧхɭŗǠŧϭ

zucchero a velo kg polpa di tamarindo kg acido citrico soluzione g gomma adragante sciolta g

10 1 100 800

zucchero gomma adragante sciolta gelatina sciolta gomma arabica sciolta olio essenziale di menta

kg kg kg kg g

Evolution”. And the meaning of this work, as we like to remember, is that history is our past and must be recognized, valued and never neglected. We are committed to questioning what is present in the literature to outline an even more up-to-date and well-founded history of sugar. This is because it is the duty of the writer, of those who edit professional books, to offer not only reliable and replicable recipes and methods, but also tools for historical and cultural study that increase awareness - and also pride - of what is done every day, of your profession.

60 3,7 1 2,7 150

La menta, per quanto se ne aggiunga, ha sempre un gusto delicato. Se si vuole un risultato più piccante, aggiungere olio essenziale di pepe, Preparare la pasta mescolando tutti gli ingredienti. Prendere 1/3 della pasta e colorarla di rosa, per ottenere 2 fogli uno rosa e uno bianco, inumidendo uno strato e sovrapponendo l’altro, per avere due colori. Passare alla macchina stampatrice, oppure decoppare a mano, dando alle pastiglie qualche moǵƎȔƺхǨǽƥƥļхǨǽǝŧǠɭŘƎŧϮхǵƎǝƺхǠƎƁƉŧхƺхǝǽưǵƎưƎϮхŘƺưх gli appositi mattarelli. Le macchine stampatrici antiche erano dotate di stampi che imprimevano, sulle due facce, il volto di una dama, le dimensioni di queste caramelle di solito sono 20 mm di diametro e 3 mm di spessore. Gli scarti si recuperano, si aggiunge altro colore per avere sempre la stessa tonalità di rosa e si prosegue la lavorazione come sopra.

Pastiglie di menta trasparenti kg zucchero a velo gomma adragante sciolta g g gomma arabica sciolta g acido acetico

(sciolto in acqua al 50%)

olio essenziale di menta

8 500 200 25 18

Si procede come al solito: le pastiglie assumeranno un colore quasi trasparente.

155

Milena Novarino

WWW.PASTICCERIAINTERNAZIONALE.COM

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The 20th anniversary of the CGU For the long-awaited 2023 edition of Sigep in January, Carpigiani has scheduled numerous events and, above all, the start of the celebrations of Carpigiani Gelato University’s 20th anniversary, with many students of the international gelato school to recount their success stories. “With more than 70,000 students having attended our courses since September 2003 and its 22 campuses in 21 countries around the world, Gelato University arrives at Sigep having crossed an important milestone and confirming its prominent international role in training new entrepreneurs and seasoned professionals”, commented Kaori Ito, director of Carpigiani Gelato University.

For 20 years the CGU has operated to spread gelato culture in many markets and in the next decades they will work more on the positioning of quality gelato in transversal segments, “a journey we began in 2015 with the Gelato Pastry University in Tokyo, and the Foodservice Professionals in London in 2017 – she adds –. Moreover, another goal is to bring innovation to the gelato segment, through a serious

www.gelatouniversity.com/en/ online-courses/20th-anniversary

Lemon flavoured sweetness The PreGel Farcimax range of filling creams expands with a new lemon flavoured product. This ready-to-use cream with a hydrated base guarantees an enveloping texture to the palate, making it ideal for filling tarts, mignons, tartlets and other breakfast pastries before or after baking. The PreGel lemon curd is gluten-free and dairy-free and it complies with the principles of vegan nutrition. It can be used to make lemon tarts and lemon pies and is the perfect ingredient for classic lemon and meringue mignons. Farcimax Lemon is available in packs of 2x5 kg buckets and is added to the other flavours of the range: Fiorbella®, Bonitobon® and Lancillotto® Crema Biscotto. pregel.it WWW.PASTICCERIAINTERNAZIONALE.COM

approach to sugar-free, dairy-free and beyond, to stay up with the demands of modern nutrition”. The celebration will be further celebrated with a recipe book which comes from the international skills of “those who give prestige to CGU, in a kaleidoscope of recipes, ingredients, techniques and contents from all over the world”. carpigiani.com - gelatouniversity.com

golden Italy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ROULÉ ROYAL COMPOSITION Conservation cold -18°C

g light Viennese biscuit .................... 700 vanilla pâte sablée ...................... 1,250 Amalfi lemon biscuit ..................... 200 non-alcoholic strawberry syrup for cake soaking.............................. 200 strawberry and raspberry jam..... 400 lemon and white chocolate chantilly cream............................... 800 neutral glaze .................................. 500

% 22.95 8.20 6.56

total............................................... 3,050

100

LIGHT VIENNESE BISCUIT Conservation cold -18°C

g pasteurized egg whites .................. 115 granulated sugar ............................. 46 light pasteurized yoks ..................... 84 pasteurized whole eggs ................. 175 granulated sugar ........................... 161 flour W 200 P/L 0,50 ..................... 119 total................................................. 700

6.56 13.11 26.23 16.39

g light fresh yolks ................................. 5 icing sugar .......................................... 5 82% fat butter................................ 101 fine sea salt ......................................... 1 icing sugar ........................................ 29

GIANLUCA AND MARINA MANNORI, THE OWNERS OF THE RENOWNED PASTICCERIA MANNORI IN

Warm up 1/3 of the strawberry purée at 50°C, add sugar and emulsify with a hand blender to dissolve it. Add the remaining cold strawberry pulp and lemon juice. Store in the refrigerator at 4°C.

PRATO, TUSCANY.

% 16.50 29.50 12.00 25.00 29.50 17.00 100

First, beat the non-cold egg whites in a planetary mixer with the first part of the sugar, making a solid and compact meringue and keep it. In a planetary mixer, whisk the yolks with the whole eggs at room temperature, incorporating the second part of the sugar, to give creaminess and structure to the mixture. Fold the whipped egg whites into the whipped egg base, alternating them twice with the sifted flour. Once everything is mixed, spread it on a silicone mat with a raplette forming a 3 cm high layer and sprinkle its surface lightly with a little cocoa or vanilla powder. Bake in a convection oven at 210°C for 9 minutes, valve open, then remove and cool on a rack. VANILLA PÂTE SABLÉE Conservation cold +4°C

NON-ALCOHOLIC STRAWBERRY SYRUP FOR CAKE SOAKING Conservation cold +4°C g % strawberry purée ........................... 118 59.00 granulated sugar ............................. 58 29.00 Amalfi lemon juice .......................... 24 12.00 peso totale....................................... 200 100.00

% 2.00 13.50 40.40 0.20 13.50

WWW.PASTICCERIAINTERNAZIONALE.COM

Madagascar Bourbon vanilla powder.................................... 1 flour W 200 P/L 0,50 ....................... 92 potato starch .................................... 18 total.................................................. 250

0.10 36.80 7.00 100

Microwave the egg yolks together with the first part of the icing sugar, cool and pass them through a fine sieve. In a planetary mixer with the flat beater, mix the soft butter with the salt and the second part of the sugar and vanilla. Make a creamy dough and combine the cooked and sieved egg yolks. Mix well and fold the sifted flour in the potato starch in two times. Let it rest in the refrigerator at 4°C for 12 hours before use. Cook as usual. AMALFI LEMON BISCUIT Conservation cold +4°C

g pâte sablée........................................ 58 caramelized puff pastry .................. 47 Éclat d’Or......................................... 37 Amalfi lemon zest .............................. 1 35% white chocolate........................ 58 total.................................................. 200

% 29.00 23.50 18.60 010 28.80 100

Mix the cooked and sieved pâte sablée with the previously caramelized puff pastry, the crunchy Eclat d’Or and the lemon zest. Add the melted white chocolate and mix. Use immediately.

STRAWBERRY AND RASPBERRY JAM Conservation cold +4°C g % wild strawberry purée .................. 126 31.50 raspberry purée ............................. 126 31.50 glucose syrup 38DE ......................... 44 11.00 granulated sugar............................. 54 18.00 pectin NH........................................... 5 1.20 granulated syrup ............................. 18 18.00 Amalfi lemon juice .......................... 27 6.80 total................................................. 400 100

Mix the purées, add the glucose syrup and the first part of the sugar. Bring to 40°C and add the pectin mixed with the second part of the sugar. Bring it to the boil and add the lemon juice, keeping it boiling for about 1 minute. Store in food containers covered with film in the refrigerator at +4°C. LEMON AND WHITE CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY CREAM Conservation cold +4°C g granulated sugar ........................... 100 grated lemon peel............................ 1.6 lemon juice........................................ 48 pasteurized yolks ............................. 36 pasteurized whole egg ..................... 36 instant gelatin powder 170 Bloom ... 5 water for gelatin .............................. 26 35% white chocolate...................... 100 82% fat butter ................................. 48 35% fat fresh cream....................... 400 total................................................. 800

% 12.50 0.20 6.00 4.50 4.50 0.60 3.20 12.50 6.00 50.00 100.00

Mix sugar with the lemon peel, add the lemon juice, egg yolks and eggs, then cook everything at 85°C. Add the rehydrated and

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melted gelatin, white chocolate, butter and, finally, the liquid cream, continuing to emulsify for a few minutes. Filter and let the mix rest in the refrigerator at +4°C for 12 hours. Whip to the right consistency and use as usual. NEUTRAL GLAZE FOR SPRAY Conservation cold +4°C

g granulated sugar ............................. 50 pectin NH........................................... 3 cold water........................................ 200 granulated sugar ........................... 105 glucose syrup 38DE ....................... 138 citrico acid........................................... 2 hot water ............................................ 3 total................................................. 500

% 31.00 0.60 40.00 31.00 27.50 0.30 0.60 100.00

Carefully mix the first part of the sugar with pectin, add it to the cold water and emulsify with a hand blender. Check that the pectin is well dissolved and that there are

no lumps, then add the remaining sugar and glucose. Cook the mixture, mixing it with a whisk until it boils around 95°C. Remove from the heat and add the citric acid well dissolved in hot water. Whisk vigorously and emulsify with a hand blender. Check that it is 66/67°Bx. Leave the glaze to stabilize at +4°C for 12 hours in the refrigerator before using it. Use it at around 22/25°C. If you want to sprinkle the glaze, bring it to 62°Brix and heat it to 40°C. ASSEMBLY

Evenly soak the light Viennese biscuit on the white side with the non-alcoholic strawberry syrup and store in the freezer. Once very cold, spread 350 g of strawberry and raspberry jam evenly on top. Put back in

the freezer. Once the jam is very cold, add a 700 g layer of chantilly cream whipped to the right consistency, in a regular and uniform way. Blast chill and, if necessary, cover with food film. When everything is very cold, cut 6 strips 3.5 cm high along the length, then other three 4 cm high strips. Wait for them to reach the ideal consistency and roll carefully on a frozen marble slab, then fix them using some more chantilly cream. Once the composition is completed, blast chill. Put 100 g of biscuit in the lower part, and use a spatula to uniform. When serving, sprinkle with the neutral glaze and decorate with some wild or fresh strawberries. Gianluca Mannori pasticceriamannoriprato.it foto Giancarlo Bononi

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Empowering pastry chefs to reduce food waste with culinary creativity In the U.S. alone, 35% of all food goes unsold or uneaten every year, 24% of which (54 million tons) ends up in waste destinations such as landfill or incineration facilities. As a premier manufacturer and distributor of professional kitchen appliances, Waring Commercial is dedicated to becoming a resource for foodservice professionals to help address this issue and help set the culinary industry on a pathway to reducing food waste. The company took on this challenge, with the belief that it’s up to every business to be part of the solution, and their job is to provide the research and deliver materials that educate and elevate the level of understanding throughout industry. Just keeping food waste at top of mind it is possible to have a profound impact on kitchen practices.

For inspiration they turn to chef Douglas McMaster, who created the Silo restaurant brand in London, with the intention to focus on a zero-waste restaurant, bakery and coffee house. Everything from the design of the kitchen and dining areas to the processes of food handling and recycling has been created in an eco-friendly way. The dining bar is made from reconstituted food packaging materials and covered in recycled leather. The wall lights are created from crushed wine bottles. The tableware is made from recycled plastic bags, and the natural cork flooring is carbon negative. Food products arrive at the kitchen in reusable crates. The menu is predominantly plant based that feature some rejected ingredients like misshapen vegetables. Every attempt is made to utilize every part of the raw produce. Even wines are chosen from small, artisan vintners who produce eco-sensitive wines with zero sulphates.

Having an impact of food waste can be a challenge and an accomplishment for everyone. Using parts of vegetables and other food items that might ordinarily be tossed into the trash is something that can be done with culinary creativity. It should be the primary kitchen tool to be used to help reduce food waste in one’s everyday operations. Shifting from food waste to ingredient optimization Optimizing the use of our recipe ingredients is a function of the imagination. Waring Commercial can offer inspiration and recipes to help make this transformation universal across the food service industry. A little knowledge and direction can go a long way in terms of reducing food costs, creating new revenue streams while dramatically increasing profits, decreasing waste costs and deescalating the effects of global warming and helping to feed the world. The company invites to think about one’s culinary equipment as a system to create, rather than individual appliances that have a single purpose — versatile product sets that promote efficiency and provide solutions that inspire change. Through alternative thinking and new processes, it is possible to implement actions that will measurably reduce food waste and provide inspiration for new ingredients and dishes. The benefits of food dehydration A prime example of how to begin to shift from waste to optimization can be found with food dehydration. By drying and preserving excess foods for use in recipes or as healthy snacks to sell, you can use up products that might

“Waste is a failure of the imagination ”

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otherwise go to waste. Dried food has a longer shelf life than fresh foods, so you can buy in bulk and not worry about throwing away the excess. In addition, some dried foods or ingredients can be expensive to purchase pre-made. If your budget is tight, choosing to buy fresh foods and dry them yourself could help you save money in the long run. For an in-depth exploration of food dehydration and a close look at the 10-Tray Dehydrator from Waring Commercial, check out the blog post The Remarkable Benefits of Adding a Food Dehydrator to Your Kitchen Arsenal. How to become empowered Visit the Waring Empowered website and check out the innovative recipes and products that will enable you to start thinking about Ingredient Optimization. Knowledge can empower all of us to make changes, and with all that is at stake from the problems that food waste can cause for our people and planet, failure is not an option!

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The origins of Pan dell’Orso

In the heart of the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise, the village of Scanno is worth a visit to discover Pasticceria Di Masso and much more

Scanno is an enchanting place. Its magic spreads from the narrow and long uphill road from Sulmona (a city in the province of L’Aquila, Abruzzo), which crosses the Valle del Sagittario as the only way to get there, admiring the beauty of the green mountains and of the blue lakes of San Domenico and Scanno. The small village lies a little further up the last one, as if placed on a stool – sgabello in Italian, from the Latin word scamnum –, and it hosts a small community who carries out traditional activities such as sheep farming, goldsmithing and confectionery. These strong traditions tell us the stories of generations and families that make local craftsmanship an excellence. Once you reach the destination, which is located in the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise, you can’t go any further, but eventually just go back on the same road. You are therefore in a unique corner, where it is nice to stroll while contemplating the facades of the medieval churches, exploring the small streets that go into the heart of the village and breathing in the genuineness of the places and nature. Many tourists love to stay in Scanno in the various seasons of the year, enjoying the lake, the ski resorts,

nature and the bears... And for years one of the most popular reasons for venturing up here has been Pasticceria Di Masso with its abundance of confectionery producs, combining tradition and modernity: ferratelle, mostacciuoli, almonds, amaretti, Cerasella, Pandolciotto, mignons, entremets, gelato and, of course, Pan dell’Orso.

A long story In 1945 Peppino and Angela, a young married couple, bought a counter and a coffee machine and opened a small village café in Scanno, the Bar Centrale, well known by everyone both for the place and for the warm welcome given to customers. The dedication and passion of the founders was inherited by their children and grandchildren, that transformed the small place into the current pastry shop. Their son Gino, aka Liborio, was in fact the first one to believe in it. He learned pastry-making in Rimini, and in the mid1950s he came back to give his mother Angela’s recipes a touch of innovation. He and his wife Maria, a tenacious lady from Friuli, worked hard to make their family business grow and today their own children Giulio, Angelo and Alessandro, together with their families, carry on that dream, which was handed down through three generations. Their range of leavened products is the driving force of online sales, capable of partially “solving” the difficulties WWW.PASTICCERIAINTERNAZIONALE.COM

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of the pandemic period, which reduced attendance on site. “The situation is not so simple – Angelo Di Masso explains –. The place where we live is beautiful, but it precludes some opportunities. Anyway, on Saturdays and Sundays we now work at full capacity, even more than before, and even in the summer months we register a huge turnout. But sales are no longer constant. Luckily, our online business has grown a lot, even abroad”.

Angelo’s devotion Born in 1970, Angelo’s love for confectionery art brought him to Torino at a very young age, to attend the renowned Istituto Beccari professional school, where he met good teachers as the chocolate maker Giampiero Gertosio and where he took a diploma. He met his second “inspiring” teacher, Alberto Ceresa, at the professional school of Castiglione delle Stiviere, near Mantova, and then he attended many specialization courses. Moreover, he made important professional experiences, such as the one in the laboratory of Iginio Massari, where he learned the processing of natural yeast. He also participated in various competitions, such as the Italian selection for World Pastry Cup in 2007, when he won in the carved ice category, and was a member of the Italian team in Lyon, together with Fabrizio Donatone and Fabrizio Galla. Years of production, training and travels have forged Angelo’s character, so passionate and always empathetic, despite the many sacrifices of working in an inaccessible corner of Italy, but he keeps that typi-

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cal pride of those who live in such “niche” places. “I think that the most important thing in life is to fully experience the path, which gratifies you more than the final result – he declares –. Do it with awareness and lucidity to capture the beauty of the day, of the moments, joyfully facing even the problems that inevitably arise, but living with gratitude and lightness!”.

The international Pan dell’Orso The symbol of Pasticceria Di Masso is the now “legendary” Pan dell’Orso, a bakery product made with flour, almonds, honey and chocolate. “My father conceived the idea in 1957 – he says –, taking inspiration from the Parrozzo, a local sweet specialty. He wanted to dedicate its one to his mother, a great woman who used to work wearing the local costume. He called it Dolce Angela (sweet Angela), but a poet friend pointed out that the name was a bit banal and gave the brilliant idea of evoking the bear, the wild animal which is the symbol and pride of Scanno”. This is how the success of this specialty began, which has now a worldwide distribution, various versions, and an all-year-round consumption. The range includes the original version (450 g, 650 g and of 1 kg) covered with a layer of fine chocolate or containing chocolate drops, as well as the 40 g-snack version, each one individually packaged. The Pan dell’Orso received an immediate and genuine response and the nowadays average production of 12,000 pieces a week takes place in a huge laboratory (1000 m2) located on the outskirts of Scanno. It was inaugurated in 1994 and the number of employees varies from 5 to 10, depending on the season. The name Pan dell’Orso is therefore a gift from the local poet Marco Notarmuzi, while the ingredients are a tribute to the nomadic shepherds of the area, who carried sweet fragrant cakes made with almonds and honey in their saddlebags: one for each month away from home. A legend tells that a group of these, who were leading the flock towards the Apulian lands, were attacked by a bear, but he discovered and preferred to eat their cakes, leaving the sheep free. A gourmet bear, which has brought so much gratification to the Di Masso family! dimassoscanno.net

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Five organic flours Health and environmental issues are increasingly crucial. The trend aiming towards healthier lifestyles and diets concerns all purchasing behaviour, including those of artisanal products, and this why Molino Grassi developed an innovative range for professional use. La Pasticceria Bio includes five organic 100% Italian wheat flours for diversified pastry products, and their uniqueness resides in these high quality characteristics. Moreover, Frolla, Pan di Spagna, Sfoglia, Croissant and Lievitati have different flour strengths and their aim is to provide the opportunity to obtain clean label products that meet the increasing demand of sustainable Italian ingredients. Thanks to the company know-how and the close collaboration with renowned experts, such as the pastry maker Pierluigi Sapiente, the best quality standards are ensured, without renouncing to sustainability issues. An example? Lievitati is an organic flour made with 100% Italian wheat, which is studied for complex processes and long leavening times. Elasticity, extensibility and homogeneity in processing and baking, as well as a great capacity of withholding fats, are the technical characteristics of this flour, which result in soft organic Panettone, Pandoro, Colomba, etc., thus ensuring real advantages in terms of originality and innovation to festive production. lapasticceriabio.it

Natural packaging The Eco Life packaging range by Atelier Tomassini aims at expressing the ideas of wellbeing, simplicity and craftmanship. As an ideal combination of technology and tradition, quality and sustainability, the range implies the presence of a PE-protect® inner side in each kraft paper boxe. The certificate of eligibility can be viewed and downloaded thanks to the link printed inside each box as required by current laws, and the PE-protect® inner side makes the packaging suitable for food contact, protecting the content and keeping its sensory properties unaltered. Moreover, the protective polyethylene barrier prevents any stains on the external side, due to the migration of fats such as chocolate, cream or cream, and gives rigidity to the packaging for better conservation even in the freezer. In addition to organic and gluten-free products, Eco Life is also suitable for classic and savory pastry products. Monochromatic, soft touch and inspired by wood, the range includes many models ready for delivery, which can be customized with one’s logo. ateliertomassini.com - pe-protect.com

Never stop creating The Chef Professional range by Menz&Gasser includes specific products for filling and baking. As the company motto states, product innovation is constant and two new bakery items are now being launched, i.e. Chef Professional fico (with figs) and Chef Professional marroni (with chestnuts). They are sold in 2 kg buckets, in order to be easily used in small professional laboratories and hotels with in-house pastry production. “Our consolidated experience and careful analysis of the reference market, combined with an intense Research & Development activity and constant investments in technological innovation, constitute the foundations on which we rely for the development of new products, which support and sometimes anticipate the market needs”. menz-gasser.it WWW.PASTICCERIAINTERNAZIONALE.COM

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From the vegetable garden and the orchard

These are the sources of some new amazing gelato tastes, which are more and more appreciated by customers of all ages

People are increasingly aware of the importance of environment protection and of the need to take concrete actions (as far as possible) against the damages of climate change and global warming. Sustainability can take many forms and one way is to adopt suitable measures to limit energy consumption and avoid food waste. Professional gelato makers follow this path more frequently now and study new ingredients and original recipes. Many of them are plant-based and the following overview gives a picture of new ingenious tastes, that are not only exquisite, but also ethical.

FROM SALAD TO DESSERT Fabio Bracciotti is the gelato maker of Sorbetteria Crème Glacée in San Benedetto del Tronto and Porto d’Ascoli, near Ascoli Piceno. Here he explains his interest in the intersection of tastes involving fruits and vegetables: “On the occasion of a special event, I worked with a chef and we prepared a gelato and vegetable salad (in pic), a lemon flavored second course with goat robiola cheese, and a lemon and basil sorbet, in order to make a journey from appetizer to dessert. There were

many flavors in my salad, to please everyone in the name of freshness and originality. It was a great challenge, which led me to work on both single ingredients themselves and savoury/ sweet recipes. Since then I have developed many that have been much appreciated, such as the Tomato and almond sorbet, or the Oil gelato with fried stuffed olives, mashed potatoes and white chocolate, with pea sauce and mango coulis”.

THE GELATO AND VEGETABLE SALAD BY FABIO BRACCIOTTI. IT INCLUDES A QUENELLE OF LEMON AND BASIL GELATO ON A ROSEMARY SABLE DISC IN THE CENTER; CELERY CREMEUX SPIKES WITH DICED VEGETABLES AND VALERIAN LEAVES ON BOTH SIDES; A SPHERE OF OIL GELATO WITH RASPBERRY COATING, ON THE LEFT, AND A CUBE OF RASPBERRY GELATO WITH GOAT ROBIOLA CHEESE AND WHITE CHOCOLATE COATING, ON THE RIGHT, BOTH PLACED ON CELERY CREMEUX TUFTS. ON THE DISH SURFACE, A FINAL BRUSHSTROKE OF TOMATO SAUCE. WWW.PASTICCERIAINTERNAZIONALE.COM

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ALMOND AND TOMATO SORBET salt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 0.070 water.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 45.3 yolks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 3 cocoa butter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 0.500 extra virgin olive oil. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 3.5 tomatoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 18.430 sucrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 5.500 dextrose.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 16.500 almond paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 7.000 carob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 0.200 guar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 0.050 tara gum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 0.050 Blanch the tomatoes and peel them. Put them on a baking tray and cook with salt and herbs (adding a little marjoram and rosemary) for 10 minutes at 160°C. Mix with water. Weigh sugars and the other ingredients separately. Mix well and put them in the liquid solution, using an immersion mixer. Stir. NOTE this taste combines a vegetable (tomato) and a fruit (almond) representative of the Mediterranean area, which together result in an mellow texture. Fabio Bracciotti Sorbetteria Crème Glacée S. Benedetto del Tronto, AP cremeglacee.it/

WHIMSICAL PAIRINGS She has been working on recipes based on fruit and vegetables for a while. Barbara Bettera, the owner of Il Gelato di Barbara in Rivolta d’Adda, in the province of Cremona, begins as follows: “In addition to the Melon and nettle sorbet (in pic), my assortment includes flavors such as Coconut and courgettes, Pineapple and fennel, Pineapple, kiwi and spinach, Pistachio and tomato, Apple and celery, Strawberry and pepper. They are all thirst-quenching, rich in water, herbaceous flavors, often in delicate colors, which arouse curiosity because they recall the vegetable world. The surprise effect is given by unusual combinations and they works also as marketing levers, especially for us who live in a small town where everyone knows us. The Melon and nettle taste, for

example, is popular because it satisfies an increasingly large part of customers interested in dairy-free and vegetarian gelatos, not necessarily due to food intolerances. Moreover, it is not prepared with a soy-based vegetable drink, which I don’t like. The same in the case of my water-based stracciatella made with a rice drink; the coffee taste prepared with the infusion method, which is very popular, or licorice or mint”.

Coconut and courgettes, Pepper and strawberry, Fennel and pineapple.

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MELON AND NETTLE SORBET For 1 kg melon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . sucrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . dextrose.. . . . . . . . . . . . inulin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . dehydrated glucose 38 DE.. neutral. . . . . . . . . . . . . . water.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . nettle leaves . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . .

g g g g g g g g

400 200 40 20 10 4 326 30

Bring the water to the boil with the nettle leaves, already washed in cold water, and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Turn off the flame and leave to macerate for another 15 minutes. Mix and filter. Integrate the part of evaporated water to bring back to the total required by the recipe. Separately, weigh all the powders and mix well with a whisk, then add them to the decoction and mix. Check that the temperature is sufficient for activation of the neutral, otherwise cook the syrup. Cool and let it rest in the refrigerator for at least a couple of hours. Incorporate the ripe fresh melon and mix well. Freeze.

NOTE the herbaceous scent of nettle matches well with the gentle sweetness and sapidity of the melon, in a sorbet appreciated for its original flavor and freshness. Barbara Bettera Il Gelato di Barbara Rivolta d’Adda, CR ilgelatodibarbara.it

VEGETABLE AND LOCAL The name Gentil Mondina, chosen by Marco Nicolino of Buono e Sano Gelateria in Rivarolo Canavese, Torino, reveals the geographical origin of its main ingredients. The Nocciola Piemonte IGP Tonda Gentile Trilobata is a selected and refined variety of hazelnuts coming from the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato area in Piedmont, while the word mondina (from the Italian verb mondare, to peel, to clean) refers to the seasonal rice paddy female workers in northern Italy, between the end of the XIX century and mid XX century, and to the rice cultivated near Vercelli. “This flavor is based on hazelnuts, rice water and also a wild cherry honey from Caluso, a small city in the province of Torino. It is included in my Le Creme Senza Latte range and it represents Piedmont, my region, in a vegetable version. Rice water is the base of my gelato and it is produced by boiling the cereal and cooling it, then the hazelnut paste, honey (which releases an intense note of cherry blossoms) and 5 g of neutral are added. This base has great advantages such as lightness and digestibility. Rice does not contain gluten and its neutral and delicate flavour is excellent in this kind of sweets”, he explains. Gentil Mondina is the latest in a series of vegetable mixes and it follows a water-based Chocolate Sorbet, made with grand cru dark chocolate, raw almonds, almond water

and pure almond paste, and Terre di Sicilia, which brought Nicolino to the finals at the Gelato World Festival a few years ago, with a gelato based on local Sicilian products, i.e. pistachio paste, almonds and orange. buonoesano.business.site

DAIRY FREE PISTACHIO AND THE PREPARATION STEPS OF GENTIL MONDINA.

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When you mix passion with experience, the promise of a masterpiece is never far away. For over 75 years ICAM Professional and Agostoni have fed the creativity of pastry chefs, chocolatiers and ice cream makers worldwide. And now we are back with the origin of taste: we are back with our Italian chocolate.

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FRUIT, VEGETABLES AND ALCOHOLIC NOTES Stefano Dassie focuses on fresh flavors made with vegetables and aromatic herbs. For example tastes as White chocolate, basil and lime; Squacquerone cheese, rocket and lime; Celery, basil and sage, and Vado in Mexico (I go to Mexico). This last is based on passion fruit, datterino tomatoes, basil and Vermuth Rosso Martini, made with tomato water extracted by centrifuge and mint, made more “lively” by a pinch of white pepper and the alcoholic note of Vermouth. This Italian professional, who owns some gelato shops in Treviso and in Spain, is attentive not only to flavors of vegetable origin, but also to environmental issues in general. For example, in the gelato shops of the Accademici Italiani Gelatieri Artigiani,

SQUACQUERONE CHEESE, ROCKET AND LIME.

a professional association chaired by Dassie himself, 500 ml packs containing microbiologically controlled low-sodium water are sold under the name of Acquainbrick (acquainbrick.it). The source is located in Tuscany, but the idea comes from an entrepreneur from Treviso, Mattia Longhin, co-founder and sales manager of the start-up Ly Company Italia. The cardboard packaging is 76% vegetable raw material, recyclable and customizable, while the cap is obtained from sugar cane. dassiegelato.com

EXPERIMENTAL PAIRING AND HEALTHY PROPERTIES Experimenter by aptitude, studies and interest, Stefano Guizzetti never ceases to surprise with special gelatos and sorbets. The combination with vegetable ingredients is part the repertoire of the owner of Ciacco Gelato, in Parma and Milan, such as in Sorbetto Parmigiano, made with strawberries, cooked tomatoes and vanilla. This mix is dedicated to well-being, because Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and strawberries have antioxidant properties, and tomatoes are rich in lycopene, a powerful antioxidant which increases its beneficial properties when cooked. Some other tastes

are Blueberry and black carrot, which boasts antioxidant properties against free radicals, and a flavor obtained with barks (in pic). This last is a celebration of memory, which recalls the scents and atmospheres of the undergrowth, made on a milk base with an infusion of barks, buds and fir resin, which tastes of rain between summer and autumn, of mushrooms and nature. WWW.PASTICCERIAINTERNAZIONALE.COM

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FROM THE AMALFI COAST The recipe of Giordano Peracchia and Lena Riccardo takes us on Amalfi Coast, in the Campania region. The result is an astonishing taste, given that aubergines are usually associated with savory preparations, but their combination with chocolate was already known to the Saracens. AUBERGINES AND CHOCOLATE

white base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l 2.3 cocoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 150 wildflower honey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 100 70% dark chocolate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 500 aubergines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 600 milk.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ml 200 almonds. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . g 150 brandy.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . to taste Dice the aubergines by removing their peel. Boil them or put them in the microwave for 8 minutes, strain and squeeze to remove the water. Add the white base, cocoa, honey and a small cap of brandy, then blend. Heat the milk and add it to the chocolate, then put the mixture in a blender, together with the almonds. Mix the two and stir. Giordano Peracchia and Lena Riccardo Ortogelato Bresso, Mi ortogelato.it

A VEGAN TACO It was a particular sweet the one by Giacomo Besuschio of Pasticceria Besuschio in Abbiategrasso, near Milan, brought to dinner-event at the Magna Pars Restaurant in Milan, last summer. His Green Taco was an amuse-bouche for intolerants without ingredients of animal origin, made up of almond shortcrust pastry (obtained with almond purée and chestnut flour, with a touch of plum husk oil, to give a light fragrance

GIACOMO BESUSCHIO (PHOTO LUCA BIANCHI).

Green Taco (photo Cristian Parravicini for ItaliaSquisita).

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and enhance the flavor of the fruit); almond financier biscuit, moistened with extra virgin olive oil, vanilla lemon zest; Sorrento lemon jam, almond mousse and lemon acid gel. “I wanted to highlight the concept of vegetable dessert with the same structures as classic desserts. It is the beginning of a journey…”.

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A new chocolate for coating while an intense cocoa taste stands out from the fourth. The new Igloo Pistacchio is made with premium quality pistachio white chocolate, with sweet, slightly roasted and milky notes. It is fit to glaze gelato cones, sticks and bonbons with a glossy, flexible and crispy coating which perfectly adheres to their surfaces, thanks to its balanced composition of cocoa butter and anhydrous butter. icamcioccolato.com/it

A pistachio novelty is launched by Icam in its Icam Professional brand, thus bringing taste innovation once again thanks to a range specifically thought for gelato making. The Igloo chocolates for coatings already included four products: Igloo Bianco Edelweiss, Igloo Bianco Caramel, Igloo Latte Intenso and Igloo Bittra. The first two both have a white chocolate base, respectively enhanced by an intense milk and vanilla flavour and a caramel touch. The balanced sweetness and delicate caramelization of the third is supported by a milk and cocoa base,

The Pastocream that also makes gelato A Rimini-based company in the refrigeration equipment market since 1959, Staff Ice System has recently introduced the ROBOcream range, which includes 10 multifunction machines designed for pastry making. High quality components and great versatility make them useful tools for pastry chefs and each model can ensure high performances and reliability, in particular when temperature control during heating, cooling and stirring phases is required. The ROBOcream machine is the ideal tool to make custard cream, crème anglaise, crème brûlée, lemon cream, mousseline, diplomatica, almond cream, butter cream, fruit creams, Bavarian cream, pâte à bombe, choux pastry, jams, gelées, jellies, icings, nappage, melted chocolate, chocolate sauce, ganache, tomato sauce, béchamel, risotto, polenta, and much more. Moreover, with the RT51, R51, R4014 and R4021 models it is possible to make gelato, frozen desserts, cakes and high quality slush, allowing to expand one’s offer of fresh and genuine products. ROBOcream multifunction machines represent modern and advantageous innovations in the world of artisanal food and they express the concepts of genuineness and craftsmanship, being able to enhance the sensory properties of food products even during the pasteurization cycle, which uses lower temperatures than the classic boiling. The perfect integration between the basic electronics and the inverter allows to obtain excellent mixes and blends, as if they were made by hand. robocream.com

Expanding professional creativity The Level Hearts 35 kit (size 80 mm x 66 mm x h 12 mm; volume 35 ml) by Silikomart Professional consists of a silicone mould and a double use cutter. It is fit for the making of multi-level small cakes, by combining the elements obtained with the mould with the ones (i.e. shorcrust pastry base) obtained with the cutter, thus expanding professional creativity with multiple options. professional.silikomart.it

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Preserve Flavor, Add Texture, Reduce Waste

Dried foods can add unique flavors and textures to drinks, meals and desserts, and with the Waring® WDH10 Food Dehydrator, a business can prepare its own. The 10-tray dehydrator makes delicious jerky, dried fruits, herbs, vegetables and more, all while preserving ingredients and extending their shelf life to the max!