PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 26-2015 by CHIRIOTTI EDITORI srl

PA S T RY B A K E RY C O F F E E C U I S I N E

MUSIC FOR MY RECIPES GELATO FANTASY

Supplemento al n. 270, Gennaio 2015 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 01/2015 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718

CLAUDIA’S SENSE OF ICING RETURNING TO THE SPLENDOURS OF THE PAST COTTON CANDY AND RASPBERRY RAVIOLI NATURE’S HYMN TARTUFATA MIA HOW TO PROCESS “FROM BEAN TO BAR” NEWS

issue twenty-six-2015

CHIRIOTTI EDITORI

10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.piwwe.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it

In this issue Music for my recipes Gelato fantasy Claudia’s sense of icing Returning to the splendours of the past Cotton candy and raspberry ravioli Nature’s Hymn Tartufata mia How to process “from bean to bar”

News A global gateway for food trade Pastry line and new glitter tray An exploration into the everyday life of a cocoa plantation More colours than the rainbow One machine, so many uses Tartufino Trittico Duo cooks pâte à choux A creative revolution The inimitable multi-purpose assistant A new collection A new sugar paste

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Livia Chiriotti SENIOR EDITOR Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti NEWS EDITORS Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino ASSISTANT EDITOR Chiara Comba TRANSLATIONS Windsor - Pinerolo MARKETING EDITOR Monica Pagliardi ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Ottavio Chiriotti ART DIRECTOR Studio Impagina PRINTED BY Tipografia Giuseppini Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright © 2015 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 270 - 2015 ON OUR COVER Ciocconello by Andrea Tamagnini

INTERVIEW

MUSIC FOR MY RECIPES Hard work and commitment mixed together with a passion for beauty and the desire to improve constantly: this is Andrea Tamagnini, confectioner, singer-songwriter and guitar player, known as Strabba “My pastry shop Pane e Cioccolato by Strabba (bread and chocolate by Strabba) is situated in the hamlet of Felina in Castlenuovo Ne’ Monti, a small village with only a few inhabitants in the province of Reggio Emilia”, Andrea Tamagnini starts to tell us. “I love these places. I could have opened my business in Bologna, where many more people would have passed in front of my shop window, but this is where I was born and I don’t want to move away”. Strabba is Andrea’s stage name, since, as well as being a confectioner, he is also a musician, a singer-songwriter and guitar player to be precise. The brand StrabbaDolcieria was born from his passion for cakes and sweets. The product offering ranges from modern cakes to macarons, from chocolates to artistic cakes, from spongata (a traditional Christmas cake made with a kind of shortcrust pastry, which is filled with apple and pear jam, candied fruits, pine seeds and

almonds, and then covered by a puff pastry layer) and typical cakes from Emilia Romagna regional cuisine, to ceremony cakes for any occasion. In the shop there are a bread and baked product counter, confectionery, café, chocolaterie and wine shop areas, with a corner for select wines and grappa. Then, there is a tasting room which also hosts art exhibitions and events during the year. In the summer, there is also an outdoor area with gazebo. When working full out, there are around ten people and two apprentices employed there. How did you become a confectioner? My parents are not confectioners, they are farmers and this has affected my approach to life, having taught me to believe in the culture of work without looking to no-one except myself. Hard work and commitment mixed together with a passion for beauty,

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

with the desire to improve constantly. I started as an apprentice in a baker’s workshop at 16 and the following year I moved to a confectioner’s workshop where I met chef Paolo Nardelli, my first teacher. After 10 years, I was responsible for the workshop. 7 years ago, I took over a baker’s-cafè of 300 m2 and in a short time I transformed it into a pastry shop and chocolaterie. How did you get into music? I share a passion for confectionery and music. I have always played music and I have been a professional musician for years. I have even played in front of Pope Wojtyla in Toronto, which was broadcast worldwide! Recently, I have been doing shows in theatres where I play, cook and sing with a cultural association of which I am president, the Bottega dell'Arte. How were you trained? At that time, there were no other professionals that I could confront myself with in the

mountains, so I had to use my instinct. My desire to cook was my main driving force which made up for the lack of contact with people from the sector. My mentor is the Italian confectioner Cristian Beduschi. I also invest in courses each year with well known professionals such as Stéphane Leroux, Emmanuele Forcone, Emanuele Saracino, Francesco Elmi... which allow me to gain experience, What do the mountains mean to you? At a height of 1200 metres, your vision of the world changes, you can perceive a quality of life that is different from living in the city. If I had been born in Milan, maybe I wouldn’t have made these sweets and cakes. The green of these fields, the deer and wild boar are my own dimension and these have influenced my choices in life. Have you dedicated any of your sweets to your family? Of course! I have very strong ties with my family. For example, the Ciocconello cake is dedicated to my father, since he adores dark chocolate and zabaglione. Then, there is the Edda cake, dedicated to my aunt, and the grandmother Ida’s spongata, prepared following her recipe, which I learnt to make when I was a child. Considering the area where you are, do you work mainly at the weekends? Yes, the workload is more intense on public holidays. There are a lot of people that come to our mountains for a day out and they stop off for breakfast, especially. We prepare around 500 a day, they mainly ask for cappuccino and brioche. Naturally our cakes and specialities are inviting and these are bought to be taken home. How have you organised production? I have invested in the cold chain. We produce every day and then we blast chill and store, so that we are ready to satisfy any request. We ship our cakes and sweets anywhere. What is your strong point? I think it is in my hands and in my awareness that a cake can and must evoke emotions. We all need good moments and it is not only the cake that is good... it is the emotion of living a moment that we can remember in less positive situations, this is the role of a good cake that must be worth a good memory. Milena Novarino

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

INTERVIEW

Ciocconello Dark chocolate mousse creme anglaise dark chocolate 70% fresh cream gelatine sheets

g g g g

300 450 500 2

Zabaglione cream Marsala egg yolks sugar starch potato starch

l n g g g

1 8 400 50 50

Caramel icing sugar glucose butter fresh cream gelatine

g g g g g

720 360 90 950 15

Caramel the sugar, add the previously boiled cream, glucose and butter, and add the softened and squeezed gelatine. Pass in the cutter and emulsify for one minute at the most. Cool and use the following day at 35°C.

Pour the hot creme anglaise onto the broken chocolate. Add the gelatine, which has been soaked and dissolved in cold water, and emulsify. Leave to cool to approx. 28°-30°C, then lighten with semi-whipped cream.

360 220 200 125 65

Brittle almond paste corn flakes white chocolate

120 110 60

cocoa g 65 Beat the egg whites with the sugar. Sift together the flour, starch and cocoa. Then fold in the lightly whisked yolks delicately with the beaten egg white and lastly add the powders. Bake at 220°C, damper closed.

Warm the Marsala, meanwhile mix egg yolks with sugar. Add the sieved potato starch and starch and dissolve. Pour in the egg yolks, sugar, starch and dissolve. Put back on the heat and bring back to a boil.

Classic chocolate biscuit egg whites g sugar g egg yolks g starch g flour g

Assembly

g g g

Pour the zabaglione cream into 18 cm diameter silicon moulds and blast chill. Prepare the chocolate mousse and pour into 20 cm diameter silicon moulds, 3/4 full. Remove the zabaglione and place in the centre pressing lightly. Add more chocolate mousse and finish with the chocolate biscuit (18 cm diameter) layered with the corn flake brittle. Blast chill and then ice with the caramel icing at 29°C and decorate with Swiss meringue and small plaque of chocolate in the centre.

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

hine, c a m a n ore tha M . t r ideas. A f o Mr y r o borat the itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a la te, from

crea s, re free to elato cones, cup a u o y t r ter A nd ct, g With Mis finished produ lato on a stick, a e e g h mix to t y, cakes, treats, reams. str a p and c gelato mousse e k li y tr s fresh pa r dealer. Ask you

t 55 cm s u j y l In on

carpigiani.com

INTERVIEW

Coccinella Pistachio dacquoise egg whites sugar grated coconut icing sugar pistachio flour

g g g g g

150 125 50 50 50

g g g g

1000 600 0,25 400

Raspberry crumble flour butter icing sugar

g g g

500 500 500

500 200 4

Fruit inserts fruit gelatine sugar Swiss meringue

g g g g

1.000 20 150 100

Blend the fruit, heat half of it and dissolve the already softened and squeezed gelatine in it. Add the sugar, the rest of the fruit and the meringue. If meringue is not used, add 200-250 g sugar.

Assembly

Heat 200 g of yoghurt to 35°C, add the already softened, squeezed and dissolved gelatine. Add the remaining 400 g of yoghurt, the Italian meringue and then fold in the semi-whipped cream.

g g g

Mix all together in order, cool for 2 hours in the fridge and then arrange using a perforated ladle and place on a tray with baking paper. Bake at 160°C for 20 minutes approx. Damper semi-open.

Blend the grated coconut with the icing sugar and the pistachios until they are in powder form. Beat the egg whites with the sugar, add the mixture of coconut, sugar and pistachio, mixing from bottom to top using a spatula. Prepare some discs on baking paper using a pastry bag and bake at 180°C for 15 minutes.

Yoghurt mousse cream yoghurt edible gelatine Italian meringue

almond flour raspberry pulp red colouring powder

Pour the yoghurt mousse into a silicon mould where points have been created using a fruit icing. Insert the fruit palet into the raspberry crumble, insert more yoghurt mousse and close with the pistachio dacquoise, then blast chill. Ice with sweet neutral gelatine when the cake is cold, and decorate with somo fresh fruit or chocolate decorations. Andrea Tamagnini - Strabba Castelnuovo Ne’ Monti, Bo https://www.facebook.com/andrea.strabba photo Nikoboi

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

THE CONTEMPORARY VISION OF CONFECTIONERY

ISBN: 978-88-96027-08-0 shop@chiriottieditori.it www.tradizioneinevoluzione.it www.piwwe.com

More than 800 pages of technical knowledge: not only many recipes and technical information, but also the means to build one’s way of working and developing through basic notions, tests, emotions. All the fundamental themes are treated, from puff pastry to whipped mixtures, from choux pastry to biscuits, from basic creams to meringues, from leavened dough to cakes, from petits fours to praliné, from chocolate to pâte à bombe, from gelato to glazes, from soufflé to nougat, from jam to nut brittle, from candying to fried products, from alternative pastry products to savoury baking… A unique and complete approach to pastry art in all its wonderful nuances.

shop.chiriottieditori.it

NEWS

A GLOBAL GATEWAY FOR FOOD TRADE

The 2015 edition of Gulfood, the world’s largest annual food and hospitality trade show, marks the 20th anniversary for one of the most important international platforms for the global food trade. Taking place from 8 to 12 February 2015 at Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC), it is expected to attract more than 4,800 companies from 120 countries and more than 85,000 visitors from over 170 countries. It spans 127,000m² of exhibition space, including a 23,000m² purpose-built temporary structure. A unique trade and sourcing platform for finished food suppliers, bulk commodity wholesalers and exporters across the spectrum of fresh, frozen, dry and processed food and beverage products, Gulfood 2015 also facilitates substantial global transactions for foodstuff commodities such as meat, cereals, grains, rice, coffee and tea. The exhibition hosts an increasing number of international heads of state, ministers and government officials, as national trade associations ink lucrative bi-lateral trade agreements and debate food industry trends at industry-shaping conferences and summits scheduled during a series of conferences. Gulfood is also a major contributor to Dubai’s growing reputation as a global events destination and a key pillar of Dubai’s 2020 tourism vision. Thousands of food and beverage products and services are introduced every year and the Gulfood Awards celebrate both people and companies behind the region’s leadership and innovation in the food and drink industry. Judged by an international panel of independent industry experts, the Awards will be divided in six categories and 10 awards. Taking place on the 10th of February 2015 at the five-star Conrad Hotel in Dubai, the Awards evening also plays host to a unique and memorable celebration of the show’s achievements over the past 20 editions and over 1,000 guests are expected to attend the anniversary event. One of Gulfood’s undisputed draws for the regions’ top professional chefs, pastry chefs, cooks and bakers every year is the annual Emirates Culinary Guild International Salon Culinaire – a showcase of the region’s best culinary talent and expertise. Held in Za’abeel Pavilion, this year’s Salon will see more than 1,300 professional chefs evaluated by a panel of 25 renowned experts, mandated by the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS) to judge culinary events across the globe. www.gulfood.com

Pastry line and new glitter tray Erremme Pastry Line is the result of a long history, made of manufacturing know-how, quality and knowledge of the great Italian pastry tradition. Today it includes a wide range of functional and aesthetic containers, trays and single portions for pastry chefs and chocolatiers. All products are made of PS and/or PET, which are non-toxic and aseptic plastic materials, for maximum hygiene and moisture resistance. Among the leading products of the line, it’s worth mentioning the new Glitter Tray in two different diameters (9 cm and 12 cm), which is available in the classic gold color and in two innovative hues, i.e. with golden glitters and black with silver glitters for an elegant image. The trays are also equipped with practical transparent lids in two heights (5.5 and 7.5 cm for the 9 cm diameter tray and 6.5 cm and 8.5 cm for the 12 diameter tray) intende both for take-away and storage. www.erremmesrl.it

A new way to decorate Designed by a Master Pastry Chef for you, the Pastry Chefs

Discover the new line of Chocolate Decorations, created by Davide Comaschi and Modecor

See you at the Modecor Stand

January 17th 21st Sector B3

Davide Comaschi Masterclass:

Hands on courses to creating your own chocolate decorations (at Modecor headquarters)

Te l 0 3 3 2 6 5 8 3 1 1

QUALITY INNOVATION SERVICE

GELATO

GELATO FANTASY Denis Buosi, confectioner, chocolatier, gelato maker and Italian chef from Varese, and Gérard Taurin, gelato maker, chef and French trainer, present savoury versions of gelato

Denis Buosi

RAW LOBSTER AND ORANGE PAVÉ WITH FENNEL SORBET

For 6 people Preparation 15’ Freezing 20’ Difficulty medium

Wash and chop the fennel (put the feathery leaves to one side) and put them in the juicer, add the extracted juice to the syrup base and place the mixture in the gelato maker. Freeze.

An elegant dish that presents raw fish in an unusual way. The hint of anise, conferred by the fennel, balances the sweetness of the lobster and the combination of the two flavours is heightened by the acidity of the orange. The idea is also ‘translatable’ with other seafood such as prawns or crayfish.

Fennel sorbet syrup base 50%* large fennel bulbs (375 g of juice is needed)

375

Lobster and orange pavé lobster oranges fennel extra virgin olive oil some chives freshly ground salt and pepper

g g n.

300 200 2

Remove the heads, shells and intestinal tract from the lobsters, then cut into small pieces. Peel the oranges and remove the pith, separate the segments and put at least twelve to one side for the decoration. Cut the remaining oranges into small pieces and place in a bowl together with the lobster. Season with salt, pepper, extra virgin olive oil and chives. Divide into four equal portions, place each portion between two sheets of plastic wrap and beat lightly to create a thin and uniform layer. (A stainless steel square can help to give a regular shape to the mixture). Wash and peel the fennel, cut in half lengthwise and slice using a mandolin slicer.

Presentation

Remove the top layer of plastic wrap and turn the mixture over onto a plate. Top with some of the orange segments, very thin slices of raw fennel and a serving of sorbet. Finish off with a few feathery fennel leaves.

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

TOMATO SORBET WITH BUFFALO MILK MOZZARELLA AND BASIL For 6 people Preparation 10’ Freezing 20’ Difficulty low

A creative solution for using very mature tomatoes, this variation of the classic Caprese salad can be used in different ways: reducing the portions, it is a perfect finger food for an outdoor event in summer; in the doses given it is a starter that arouses curiosity and livens up the conversation. However, nothing stops you from tasting it as a light lunch, ideally, with your feet on the sand and your head in the clouds.

Tomato sorbet syrup base 50%* g Pachino tomatoes g water g dessert spoon of extra virgin olive oil pinch of salt buffalo milk mozzarella g extra virgin olive oil fresh basil and pepper Pachino tomatoes n. Parmigiano Reggiano pastry straws n. crystallised basil

250 250 100 n. 1 50

nutes. Put to one side. Wash the tomatoes, remove stalks and place them in the juicer. Add the tomato juice to the syrup base, season with salt and extra virgin olive oil, mix well. Freeze. Drain the mozzarella and finely dice. Season with oil, salt, pepper and the basil leaves cut into julienne strips. Using a dessert spoon, place one portion of seasoned mozzarella on the bottom of small jars or mason jars. Cover with a layer of tomato sorbet and decorate with fresh tomatoes, crystallised basil leaves and Parmigiano cheese pastry straws. Serve straightaway.

*Syrup base 50% water sugar glucose syrup carob flour (optional)

g g g g

455 285 180 8

Mix the sugar and syrup together with the water. If you decide to use the carob flour, first, let it down with 100 g sugar. In a saucepan, bring the mixture to a temperature of 85°C and leave to cook for approx. 2 minutes to allow the sugar to dissolve completely. Cool the syrup rapidly by immersing the saucepan in a bowl containing water and ice. The syrup can be kept in a closed bottle in the fridge for 3-4 days.

4-6 4

Oil the basil leaves and salt slightly. Lay them out in a single layer on a plate which can go in a microwave oven and cook at full power for 2 mi-

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

Denis Buosi “Gelato, sorbetti e dolci ghiacciati” Bibliotheca Culinaria photo Francesca Moscheni www.bibliothecaculinaria.it

GELATO

A CHAT WITH DENIS BUOSI How do you “interpret” gelato today? We have always planned production around the quality of the raw materials and this has allowed us to become known for the goodness of our products. Today, we pursue this policy more than ever, even in this period of crisis which we are living in. How do you develop new flavours and ideas? Luckily, I am not lacking in ideas. I always try to diversify production, depending on the outside temperature, for example, varying the type of fruit and even making unusual combinations, as in the case of gelato made with savoury products. How do you propose gastronomic gelato? We have thought up an innovative formula of aperitif with gelato, to be offered on themed evenings. Therefore, you can find tomato sorbet with buffalo milk mozzarella and basil, sesame gelato with tuna tartare, fennel sorbet with lobster, bruschetta with tomatoes and olive oil sorbet…. and many more, which can be served at an aperitif, as a summer starter or in alternative to a classic canapé. Some of these examples appear in my recently published book, completely dedicated to gelato recipes, as do the ones on these pages (“Gelato, sorbetti e dolci ghiacciati” - Bibliotheca Culinaria - pag. 66 - € 13.90 - language: Italian). What are the taste preferences that you have identified in your gelato parlour? Are classic flavours still popular? Since we are well known for our chocolate, of course, this is the most popular flavour, together with Buosino®, which is a must, of our own invention based on milk, cream, coffee and chocolate. Apart from these, fruit flavours, granitas and ice lollies are highly appreciated. C.Q. photo Francesca Moscheni and Buosi www.buosi.it

Denis’s book also contains recipes for cakes, such as, for example, the one for almond cupcakes filled with gelato and gelato filled macarons.

Gérard Taurin

OYSTER GELATO ON A BED OF SEAWEED

Use number 1 or 2 oysters, depending on the season: the total quantity can vary from two to three dozens.

drained oysters liquid cream powdered milk egg yolks honey oyster water fish gelatine total

g g g g g g g g

500 300 100 50 150 500 4 1604

Blanch all the ingredients. Mix and season with salt and pepper. Cool the mixture in ice and freeze. As soon as the gelato is ready, pipe onto the cooled shells using a piping bag with a Saint Honoré nozzle and place in the freezer. Prepare the serving tray with slivers of dried seaweed, sea salt and thin sheets of lemon. Place the oysters on top and complete with wakame seaweed. Serve with white wine. The oysters from Brittany and Normandy are classified according to their dimensions, on a scale that goes from 1 (the biggest) to 4 (the smallest).

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

GELATO

SQUASH POTIMARRON SOUP WITH GELATO AND VITELOTTE POTATO CHIPS Recipe for 10 people

Squash Potimarron soup squash Potimarron carrots medium sized potatoes small tomatoes large onion a handful of parsley garlic clove ginger, nutmeg, paprika

g g n. n. n.

250 100 3 2 1

Cut all the vegetables into large cubes and finely chop the parsley and garlic. In a saucepan, put the ingredients in the following order, leaving approx. 2 minutes between adding each one, onion, carrots, squash, potatoes, garlic and tomatoes. Then cover with warm water. When the vegetables are cooked, mix in the parsley, spices, salt and pepper.

Caramelised Squash Potimarron brown sugar nutmeg cinnamon toasted nuts

g g g g

200 2 5 20

Squash Potimarron gelato whole milk liquid cream powdered milk sugar dextrose honey squash puree total

g g g g g g g g

750 400 100 100 35 100 1,000 2,485

Steam a few segments of squash, roll in a warm mix of sugar/nuts/cinnamon/nutmeg, and caramelise on a grill or in very hot frying pan.

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

GĂŠrard Taurin places the squash gelato balls onto the violet potato chips.

GELATO

Put all the ingredients together and blanch. Cool in ice and freeze.

Presentation

As soon as the gelato is ready, place some balls onto Vitelotte potato chips (the variety with voilet skin and pulp originating from PerĂš) and put to one side. Pour the boiling soup into the specific dishes, add a good spoonful of cream, sprinkle with parsley and place the caramelised squash segments and gelato on the potato chip all around.

CONFIT TOMATOES WITH SPICES AND BASIL SORBET Confit tomatoes with spices medium-sized ripe tomatoes

Syrup with spices water dextrose sugar

g g g

1000 500 200

Bring the water, sugar and dextrose to the boil. Add 2 flowers of star anise, one vanilla bean, 3 cinammon sticks, 3 cloves. Plunge the emptied out tomatoes into the boiling water, keeping the tops, then remove from heat and leave to cool for 24 hours covered with plastic wrap.

Fresh basil sorbet powdered milk sugar powdered glucose

g g g

30 360 200

water basil fresh lemon juice

g g g

800 40 600

Cook the syrup without lemon and basil, cool and pour a little of the lemon juice into the thermomix with the basil leaves. Mix at high speed and introduce the other ingredients. Freeze and prepare small balls of sorbet.

Presentation

Drain the confit tomatoes and cool quickly in a blast chiller. Prepare the plates with a base of crushed strawberries in order to get a coulis. Place a ball of basil sorbet inside each tomato and cover with the tomato tops. Place each one on a plate, place another serving of sorbet on the strawberry coulis, a basil leaf, a few pieces of strawberry and, lastly, dampen with the liquid the tomatoes were cooked in.

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

GĂŠrard Taurin www.gerard-taurin.com

SUGAR ART

CLAUDIA’S SENSE OF ICING Claudia Prati, a teacher passionate about royal icing, came across us at Chiriotti Editori and following this chance meeting, a manual came into being. The book has the aim of giving back the deserved and enhanced dignity to a valuable decorative technique, between history, method and creativity Claudia Prati with one of her decorated cakes, which can be found in her book.

A Greek fret made with skill and elegance, doing justice to classic Italian decoration, using a horn and royal icing. This is the first thing that impressed us about Claudia Prati, without yet knowing her. Then getting to know her, we discovered a shared passion for this decorative technique and for its completely Italian history that today, “dazzled” by the boom of cake design, is all too often forgotten, leaving most people convinced that it is “an Anglo-Saxon thing”. From this real common passion, it was spontaneous to create a project pampered in every detail and in the various stages of preparation. “Manuale della ghiaccia reale” (€ 39,00 - Italian - shop.chiriottieditori.it) narrates royal icing in a complete way, looking into its past in depth and offering the reader all the necessary elements to be able to try it out, from A to Z, addressing the beginner as well as the affirmed professional. The concept of “giving back dignity” is apt in this case; in a world in which the appearance of a sweet has become even more important than its flavour, this technique instils elegance and is prelude to the joy of the palate, since starting from here it is assumed that beauty and goodness are inseparable. This is not only a book that explains the techniques, but it is also an even more useful tool in order to understand the subject better, because royal icing is fascinating for its aesthetic potential as well as for its long history and is able to cross nations and personalities. A past that is worth recreating through meticulous research: an objective made possible also thanks to the library and newspaper library of the “Pasticceria Internazionale” Study Centre which, among historic and contemporary volumes, magazines and a well-stocked data base (not forgetting the museum of equipment, prints, documents…), offer illuminating texts and bibliographic inspiration, feeding our and our authors’ passion for research.

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

“I realised that icing came easy to me, as a manual skill and as aesthetic expression”, recalls Claudia. So, after attending course after course, and consulting professional texts everywhere, it is natural that she should teach the subject herself: “The approach to icing is a serious matter, full of sacrifice, of practice, but it seemed too serious to me. It was necessary to teach it in a manner in which it would be experienced in a simpler way, without asking too much, without the need to be the ‘Michelangelo’ of royal icing. Of course, it takes hard work to reach certain levels, but I do not want to frighten people off or dash hopes, since even I continue to make a lot of mistakes, anyway my teaching approach helps people”. She joins to many other enthusiasts from all over the world, at the forefront Eddie Spence, who say: “Let’s make sure icing does not die out!”. Inevitably, since, at the moment in Italy, this practice does not have the same amount of enthusiasts as a few decades ago, its reference points are above all Anglo-Saxon specialists. This explains why the terms that she uses are often in English. However, Claudia also admires Italian great confectionery decorators, such as Guido Bellissima, Achille Brena, Ferruccio Grassi, Graziano Giovannini and many others that she has come to know through the pages of “Pasticceria Internazionale”. Claudia, where do you start when learning the techniques? At least, for the first time, by watching someone doing it, contemplating the consistency of the icing. Many people are frightened of how the mixture is prepared, stored and used. Once you have understood the basics, an important step has been made. In the beginning there is no need to know a lot of techniques, but rather the consistency and the nozzles to use depending on this. From here on, it is only a question of practice, practice and more practice. And from a chromatic point of view? As a general rule, with icing it is necessary to have a talent in harmonizing with colours, so as not to choose shades that are too vivid, preferring subdued colours. It also depends a lot on the style of the cake. I have seen very colourful and wonderful cakes, however in those cases the artist managed to find colour combinations that were in complete harmony, something that is not so easy to manage. Therefore, it is much easier to use pastel tones in the beginning. I recommend working on a colourful base using white icing rather than working on a white cake using different coloured icing….

Among the numerous techniques present in the book, which you prefer? With pressure piping it is possible to create two-dimensional forms in relief. Getting the hang of this technique you can make any type of animal, flower and profile of a person. The basic technique is very simple, as are the basic instruments: sugar, egg white, lemon, greaseproof paper for making the bag. At the beginning it isn’t even necessary to use nozzles. It seems a paradox, but using icing is the quickest way to decorate after years of practice. Modelling takes longer. Then, it is obvious that, improving your knowledge of the various techniques, everything becomes more complex, as with extension works, for example, which require a lot of time. Then you recommend a personal approach first and then, a didactic approach?

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

Icing should be first experimented “solo”, of course, after buying my book! Then, continue by attending courses, without pauses. Therefore, it would be better not to do the first courses uninitiated, so as not to lose the details and to understand your own mistakes better, even only at the level of the position of your hands. Which modern application can you foresee for icing? Many, because it only needs beautiful writing to ennoble a festive cake. Then, just think of the potentiality of the common biscuit decorated with icing, ideal also for impulse buying. A little larger than normal, as a single portion, already wrapped in clear cellophane and placed next to the cash register, it can arouse curiosity, especially if well decorated with the most common first names or various subjects depending on the season and holidays. A perfect present, as well as a tasty snack.

NEWS

AN EXPLORATION INTO THE EVERYDAY LIFE OF A COCOA PLANTATION For the last 40 years of working with cocoa farmers, Icam has produced much more than cocoa. “We have been able to build a relationship based on honesty, respect and trust – they say –. We have shared our commitment to the research and development of higher quality cocoa, providing secure income for farmers and improving the standard of living of the people with whom we work. These are the ingredients that allow us to talk about sustainability and from which fine chocolate couvertures were born”. Grand Cru, Los Palmaritos and Los Vasquez derive from cocoa beans from a single plantation. The Dark Chocolate Cru Pachiza of Peruvian origin has a characteristic cocoa profile; the Milk Chocolate Single Origin from Peru has an intense and refined flavour, stimulating taste through a wide range of aromas. The new Single Origin Uganda is the result of a direct participation in the plantation, expressing a dominant chocolate flavour and a characteristic intense cocoa aroma. Moreover, the range includes other chocolates such as Ecuador, Madagascar and São Tomé. The stories of the sustainable production chain are online, www.icamprofessionale.it/video Further information about Icam Linea Professionale products are on www.icamprofessionale.it/products

More colours than the rainbow It is designed for the much appreciated macarons the new Macadò, an innovative box by Silikomart Professional intended to preserve the uniqueness and fragrance of these pastry specilties. It is a resistant and functional plastic box, available for 6 or for 12 macarons. It is composed of a transparent cover and a tray available in 8 colours: black, fuchsia, green, white, brown, dark green, red and transparent. The cover can be closed hermetically with a stable joint, to protected from humidity. Furthermore, thanks to its transparency, the products inside are clearly visible. It is stackable both in the bottom and in t he cover, in order to meet the need of space optimization in laboratories as well as in shop windows. The bottom is endowed with a structure that separates every single macaron, so that they do not get damaged when displayed or carried. The container is designed according to a modular size, that allows to display exactly 10 boxes for 12 macarons and 20 boxes for 6 macarons on 60x40 cm trays. The bright colours of the innovative packaging stand out in shop windows, and can be customized with stickers, ribbons or other decorative elements used in pastry shops. professional.silikomart.com

One machine, so many uses Staff Ice System, the company located in Rimini which has been in the cold equipment’s market since 1959, introduces Line R: one machine with lots of applications. The high quality of its components and its versatility make the multi-function Line R a useful tool for pastry chefs. All the 8 models are meant to grant the maximum of the performances with the highest reliability in all the recipes that require a temperature control, i.e. heating, cooling and mixing. The multi-functionality allows to produce custard cream, candied orange peels, bran pie, torrone, fondant sugar, chocolate melting, ganaches, jellies, jams and much more. They represent a suitable solution in the world of handcraft food preparations. They express “authenticity and craftsmanship” and maintain the organoleptic features of ingredients, as the pasteurization cycle uses lower temperatures compared to traditional boiling. The integration between basic electronics and the inverter allows to create any kind of mix. Moreover, Staff Ice System is going to launch a new machine intended to transform the way you work. Designed with a special care for women’s needs, it is characterized by revolutionary design features that the company will reveal in the coming months… www.staff1959.com

INTERVIEW

RETURNING TO THE SPLENDOURS

OF THE PAST Respect and listening: these are the key words around which a “reasoned improvisation” unravels in the kitchen of chef Matteo Baronetto, who manages the renewed Ristorante Del Cambio, in Turin, assisted by by the young Nicola Dovnik in the preparation of the sweets The Ristorante Del Cambio has returned to its antique glory. Splendour, taste and elegance, transposed in a modern interpretation, recall the eras, in which, not only the people who built Italy sat at its tables, but also famous and distinguished diners of the caliber of Giacomo Casanova, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Friedrich Nietzsche or, in more recent times, Maria Callas and Audrey Hepburn. So, what has been one of Turin’s landmarks since 1757 has decided to start writing its history again thanks to a prestigious business project led by Michele Denegri. A year of work has allowed the areas to be restored in such a way that does not betray their soul even though there are new features such as the Bar Cavour, on the first floor, a cocktail bar open until late, and the redevelopment of the restaurant areas, where international artists such as Arturo Herrera, Michelangelo Pistoletto and Izhar Patkin have intervened. However, the biggest change is in the kitchen and carries the signature of Matteo Baronetto. A key person in this relaunch, Baronetto returns to one of the places of his debut. He worked in the kitchens of piazza

Carignano during on-the-job training when still at school. Years have passed since then and the young chef, born in Giaveno, in the province of Turin, has gained valuable experience that has taken him to Gualtiero Marchesi at Albereta in Erbusco, Bs, and to the kitchens of Carlo Cracco, first in Piobesi d’Alba, near Cuneo, and then in Milan. Baronetto is starting again from his Turin, accepting the challenge that walks arm in arm with history and modernity. His cuisine is a “reasoned improvisation”, he admits, a balancing exercise between intuition and consideration, inspiration and talent in its execution. The kitchen brigade is composed of 14 people and with them Baronetto underlines the importance of that guiding thought, of that intellectual and practical discipline capable of directing the work of all the group. He goes on to say that his is a cuisine “which does not exist”, is difficult to define, and which at the Cambio descends from the respect of the place, from its history and the taste of customers of yesterday and today. Respect and listening are, therefore, the key words, but without being in awe, because the Ristorante Del Cambio

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

deserves vitality and the risk to change. Baronetto says, “my ambition is to create, also in the kitchen, something that will last for a long time”. Hence the restaurant offer goes from the Menù gastronomique à la carte to the Tasting Menu, to the light lunch, to the Déjeuner à la fourchette and to the “easy” menu (but always with taste) of the Bar Cavour. Occupying a place of honor in a menu has to be the dessert, and creativity comes to light also in the sweets, which at the Cambio intend to be a discreet and light presence, which is ideal at the end of a meal. With Baronetto is Nicola Dovnik (together in the photo) who follows the preparation of the desserts. A young chef who lends himself to confectionary and who has worked with him since the times of Cracco, as is also true for his right hand man Diego Giglio, who has been at his side for thirteen years. A must to savour is the Bonèt, one of the typical sweets of Piedmontese tradition, able to reflect not only the roots of the chef from Turin but also his amazing ability to reinterpret the most authentic symbols of the past. This is the new soul of Del Cambio and it is

felt with each course. The Bonèt, a pudding made with amaretti biscuits and cocoa, half of which is wrapped in a crunchy chocolate crust, cocoa beans and a pinch of salt is served with a coffee sauce. “My philosophy,” explains Baronetto, “is to propose again something which already exists, trying to improve it in a contemporary and creative way,

without modifying the essence but adapting it to the times in which we live”. Another extraordinary example of the “Baronetto way of thinking” is Rice spaghetti, vin brulè and spices. Prepared with rice flour “in order to give importance to handmade pasta,” he explains, “they are a return to the vin brulè of a bygone era and are prepared

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

with cooked wine and gelato with spices. “The ingredients are cornerstones of the Piedmontese spirit and our offer here at the Cambio is exactly that of translating ancient recipes for modern palates, experimenting, blending and seducing,” he concludes. Text and photos by Sarah Scaparone

RECIPES

COTTON CANDY AND RASPBERRY RAVIOLI A ravioli mold and a cotton machine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; chef Martin Lippo uses conventional tools and equipment in a creative way thus obtaining astonishing results

Ingredients sugar freeze-dried raspberries limes

the center of the mold photos 2-3 , close it, and remove the excess cotton candy 8 Open the mold and carefully unmold the ravioli. photos 4-5 9 Serve immediately.

Method 1 Wash and pat dry the limes. 2 Grate the skin with a microplane grater for citrus. 3 Dehydrate the lime zest at 35ÂşC until totally dry. 4 Warm up the cotton candy machine. 5 Pour the sugar in the center of the cotton machine. 6 Collect the cotton candy very carefully and place it over a ravioli mold. photo 1 7 Place some freeze-dried raspberries and the dehydrated lime skin in

Notes

Working with cotton sugar could be impossible under high humidity conditions. A very low temperature during the lime zest dehydrating process is essential to prevent the aroma from volatilizing. Martin Lippo Barcellona, Spagna

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

MADE IN ITALY

More colours than the rainbow stronger than a rock. Now your precious macarons can be safely stored.

BEST PRICE

Elegant • Versatile • 8 Classic and trendy colours • Hermetic Customizable lid • Stackable • For 6 or 12 macarons • Modular

REGISTERED DESIGN professional.silikomart.com +39 041 5190550

GELATO

Martin Lippo

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

www.sgsm.it

futura ex New version with Screwpump removable®

Tank capacity: 35 kg. Hourly production: 170 kg. Power consumption: 2.5 kW – three phase, 5 poles.

www.selmi-group.it Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN) Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 info@selmi-group.it

FLOWERS AND CHOCOLATE

NATUREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HYMN

Roses, broccoli spears, lavender, blueberriesâ&#x20AC;Śand pralines for a composition that celebrates nature and the joys of chocolate

It is dedicated to all those who love the beauty, the elegance and the style of this new window-dressing scheme carried out by Se, the brand created by Elena Carano and Rosalba Zanoni, young floral designers from Pinerolo in collaboration with Cioccolato Puro, the shop dedicated to chocolate, also located in Pinerolo, Turin, Italy. The centre piece is the composition which makes a beautiful display inside an elegant black box. Not just a simple bouquet of flowers, but a well thought out combination of roses and little white roses, vegetables (broccoli spears), medicinal herbs like lavender and fruits of the forest, such as blueberries. To make the composition unique, the pralines, inserted into long twigs, become imaginative and inviting decorative elements. Next to the main bouquet, the long rectangular box is filled with pralines on which three bars of chocolate are placed. To enhance the lid of the box there is a small bouquet made up of turmeric flowers, tiny white roses, blackcurrants, blueberries, cinnamon sticks and green slender fronds. All of this is accompanied by delicious chocolates inserted into the twigs, so that they look almost like a lollipop. The whole thing is then finished off on a golden tray, on which small chocolates and sugared petals lay. www.sefiori.it www.cioccolato-puro.com photos Remo Caffaro

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

RECIPES

TARTUFATA

sweet truffle cake The distinctive feature of this cake is that it wants to update a historic speciality with a strong personality in its flavour, by giving it a new look with a cream that combines hazelnut and cocoa and a trace of alcohol which is usually very dominant. Therefore there are two aspects, the sensory one, where a balance is maintained between the biscuit and the creamy part (also with the introduction of soft amaretto in favour of the former), the second will be perceived as not so sweet and rich. From purely a productive and commercial point of view I opt for assembly using a cake ring, which gives good stability and keeping, with a simple and modern design. Spraying the syrup onto the sponge discs after baking will give softness to the product with a balanced perception of rum.

TARTUFATA MIA my sweet truffle Light rum syrup 30°Baumé syrup water distilled rum 40% vol.

Mix the ingredients together and keep.

Butter sponge cake eggs yolks granulated sugar vanilla pod plain flour (for biscuits) potato starch baking powder butter

g g g

56 29 15

g g g g g

200 80 120 60 200

g g

350 79

g g g

511 10 50

Prepare a confectioner’s custard, add both the cacao and hazelnut paste, emulsify carefully, cool and whip with the butter. Use straightaway.

g g g n. g g g g

200 160 277 1/2 150 150 3 60

Heat the eggs, sugar and vanilla to 50°C. Whip and then slowly add the yolks. Fold in the sifted dry ingredients and the warm melted butter which has been emulsified with some of the eggs. Distribute in cake rings until a thickness of about 6 mm and bake at 200°C for 10 minutes. Spray with the rum syrup when it comes out of the oven and cool quickly.

Soft amaretto with hazelnuts egg white granulated sugar almond flour icing sugar cocoa powder 10/12 plain flour (for biscuits) chopped Piedmont hazelnuts

g g g g g g g

259 103 309 257 41 31 40

Crema tartufata sweet truffle cream milk sugar

g g

940 250

Whip the egg white with the granulated sugar, which has been added slowly and fold in the sifted dry ingredients using a spatula. Make discs of 6 mm in height and of a smaller diameter than the cake, sprinkle the chopped hazelnuts and icing sugar on top. Bake at 170°C for approx. 20 minutes, chill at a positive temperature.

egg yolks starch cacao paste Piedmont hazelnut paste butter

Chocolate ganache milk glucose syrup Regina milk chocolate Icam Linea Professionale gelatin water

Bring the milk to the boil with the glucose, add the chocolate and hydrated gelatine, emulsify and keep at 4°C for 12 hours.

Assembly and presentation

Assemble using stainless steel rings placed upside down on acetate sheets following this order: a first layer of sweet truffle cream, 5 mm in thickness, place the sponge on top and press, a second layer of cream, sponge, a third layer of cream, finish with the cocoa amaretto and press, chill to a negative temperature and keep. Turn over and remove the ring, keep at a low temperature. Melt the chocolate ganache at 29°C and spread over the cake, level the icing and complete with a strip of dark chocolate, chocolate decoration, toasted hazelnuts and a sprinkle of cocoa.

Note

The union of the Piedmont hazelnut (a unique product due to its sensory properties) and cocoa create a sweet truffle cream that is structured, fullflavoured but well-balanced. The flavours and the aromas are enhanced, strengthened and yet proportioned with the sponge, which adds a hint of rum, amaretto with cocoa and hazelnuts. A rational production method and a tasty content are thought up to modernize a classic proposal in its structure and content, duly recalling all the historical heritage of sponge filled “all’italiana” (in the Italian way).

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

Riccardo Magni for www.icamprofessionale.it photo Riccardo Marcialis

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

NEWS

TARTUFINO Tartufino is the new product by Bigatton, a thin semi-circular wafer coated with chocolate and crushed nuts, a crispy and fast solution for bonbons to be filled with ganache, gelato, semifreddo and creams. Its versatility allows to create both crispy balls with soft “hearts” and also filled basket. The Bigatton Tartufino is also ideal for filling cups and cones. It is available in four flavours: chocolate-covered, chocolate-covered with shredded coconut, chocolate-covered with crushed amarettos, chocolate-covered with chopped hazelnuts. It is packaged in boxes of 576 pieces/8 boxes per carton. www.tartufino.it

Trittico Duo cooks pâte à choux The series Trittico Duo by Bravo widens its family of optionals with a kit designed to obtain a perfect pâte à choux. It’s a high-technology extra equipment easy to be used: a special flange adds wheatmeal directly into the lower tank at the right time and mixes it to get a flawless product. The kit is completed with a software pâte à choux programme, thanks to which the production is performed through pre-set and automatic processes, both on the cold and on the hot part. The advantage of such optionals is the possibility to choose extra equipment according to one’s needs. In this case, it is possible to buy the arrangement contextually with the machine and to add the complete kit afterwards. In January Bravo presents the technology of Trittico Duoduring Sigep, and also organizes shows every day, involving famous professionals such as Iginio Massari, Diego Crosara, Danilo Freguja, Davide Comaschi (Chocolate World Champion), Angelo Grasso, Pino Scaringella, Beppo Tonon, and many others. Moreover, Bravo reconfirms the partnership with Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie 2015 at the Sirha in Lyon, where Trittico technology and K24 Evo tempering machine are the protagonists in each team’s box. http://configurator.bravo.it https://www.facebook.com/BRAVOSPA/events

A CREATIVE REVOLUTION IdeaTre by Carpigiani is intended to turn around the retail food world, reinventing shop architecture and processes, and perfectly encapsulating production, storage, and presentation of gelato specialties. Professionals can express their creativity making gelato right in front of customers, involving them with exclusive recipes and production aromas, and with fresh fruit and spreadable chocolate and hazelnut creams as complements to high-quality production. With IdeaTre it is also possible to make sorbets, slushes, mousses, pastry creams, jams, poached fruit, sauces and savory creams. The machine has a compact, linear design, with four vertical cylinders dropped into a work counter, and can be installed in multiples (8, 12, 16, 24…) according to production plans. Each cylinder can be heated to 105°C (221°F) and then dropped in only a few minutes to -15°C (5°F). Each four-cylinder module can produce 10-130 kg/h in just one linear meter of space. The advantage is that artisans can finally dedicate the proper attention to customers, and invite them to taste the wide range of sweet and savory flavors of gelato, pastry and creative cuisine. www.carpigiani.com

ICAM LINE A PROFESSIONALE . YOUR INSPIR ATION, OUR PASSION.

CHOCOLATE

HOW TO PROCESS “FROM BEAN TO BAR” We asked Guido Castagna, chocolate maker in Giaveno www.guidocastagna.it to explain the process from cocoa bean to a bar of chocolate, a process which he follows in every detail

The person that produces or sells chocolate is called a cioccolataio or cioccolatiere, these two words are synonyms according to the Italian dictionary Lessico Universale Treccani. A term does not exist in the Italian language to distinguish a person that produces chocolate starting from the beans (therefore from the origin), a person that starts from the mass, the semi finished product, or who simply sells chocolate made by others. The term cioccolataio, much used in the 1800s, indicated a person who prepared drinking chocolate. It is in this period that the saying “fare la figura del cioccolataio” became known to indicate someone who made a bad impression (the story goes that the saying originated because of a cioccolataio who behaved arrogantly towards a king) and so the profession itself opted to use the term cioccolatiere. In France the profession of chocolatier is distinguished from that of cacaotier, the latter producing chocolate starting from processing the beans. In Italy, not

having this distinction we have to coin a new word, because “who produces chocolate starting from the cocoa bean”, explains Guido Castagna, “can decide the flavour, therefore, influence the final product, who starts with the mass can only add sugar”. How can you decide the flavour? By choosing the raw material, the level of toasting, checking the production chain. We buy from certified cooperatives, I am speaking of a direct relationship with the cultivators. We choose the type of bean and look for perfumes and scents. The beans are more expensive, but in this way you are sure that the money all goes to the cultivators and, most of all, you almost have full control of the production chain and you know that from the rare Criollo or Trinitario beans, it is possible to produce chocolate for connoisseurs. Can the beans have different characteristics every harvest? Of course. To understand better we can

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

compare the harvest of the cocoa pods to that of harvesting grapes, which are influenced by the climate, the earth, humidity... the wine that is produced varies from year to year, there are vintage years where great wines are produced and these are bottled and left to age to obtain excellence. Fabricator of all this is the oenologist. For cocoa it is the same, its creator is the cacaotier. The certified cooperatives guarantee the first phases of processing from the harvest to the fermentation, to the drying, right up to the packaging in sacks ready for exportation. So is it more expensive to produce chocolate starting from the beans? Yes, the costs are higher. We buy the beans in autumn (the important harvests are twice a year), and we pay for them straightaway as opposed to a semi finished product which is paid for after 90 days. When the sacks arrive, we dry the beans. In total between impurities, foreign bodies, humidity and shells, there is a weight loss of 25%. Then

The new Easter line of silicone moulds for tridimensional subjects

Ask for

catalogue to see

all the protagonists of the upcoming Easter!

www.martellato.com

GELATO production starts: toasting, breaking of the cocoa beans, removing the shells, pre-refining, refining, conching for 48 hours. Furthermore before being sold, our chocolate is left to mature for 6 months in a climatized environment, an indispensible period which serves to give a correct stability to the product and a balance of taste. All of these phases are necessary to transform it from immature to pleasant. Time, as with wine, influences the scent in a significant way. Who toasts beans also toasts hazelnuts? Definitely, hazelnuts are needed to produce gianduiotti and the gianduia flavour, these, unlike beans, are processed immediately after the harvest. The hazelnut is at its best when it is fresh and not mature. What is the price of the beans? One of the best markets for cocoa is Liffe in London. The International Cocoa Organization (ICCO) sets a daily reference indicator which is calculated as an average of some future exchanges both in London and in New York. The price of the future is expressed in English pounds per ton. The trading unit, that is the minimum quantity negotiable, is 10 tons. Generally speaking, cocoa is traded at €2 per kg, but the rare types Criollo (2% of the world production), Trinitario (18%) are not quoted and are sold at € 6-12. To sum up, what difficulties are encountered when working beans? Availability of the raw material, contacting and visiting the cooperative to check the first phases of preparation: separating the seeds from the mucilage, fermenting and drying. Furthermore we have to be able to make our activity known, our work. Today, any chocolatier can claim to start from the bean, from bean to bar, even if this is not so. Can you distinguish industrially produced chocolate from handmade chocolate? Yes, in order to appreciate our quality the palate which is often used to a flat taste needs to be educated, because often the industry treats chocolate with potassium which removes the acidity, eliminating the unpleasant part and with this also the flavour. With this procedure it is not possible to allow the product to mature, but it is sold

straightaway. Going back to the example of wine, if the palate is used to tasting a normal wine, it needs to linger, to smell the perfumes and taste the flavours in order to appreciate a vintage wine. What are the advantages of processing the beans? Being in contact with a fantastic world. The charm of this fruit that wins you over, admiring the fact that a liquid can come from a dry seed, living in a state of uncertainty because you do not know which flavour you will manage to develop. Undoubtedly when buying we know what we are getting depending on the type of cocoa we choose, for example the Madagascar is sour but with a very fruity note, while the Arriba Equador is more aromatic. There is commercial sati-

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 26

sfaction when you see that your efforts to obtain the best are appreciated. Is your chocolate the result of a blend? Our production is mainly pure, but we also offer blends. Also because it is nice to experiment. We have bars of chocolate with different flavours that range from basics, floral to more sour flavours which are orange and red fruits, mandarin and lime. From an economic point of view, do you have many competitors? The multinational companies get very low prices at the origin, therefore they can offer prices that are unthinkable for us. Processing the hazelnuts allows us to have a better mark up. Buying the paste is more convenient, but you do not know how it has been prepared and what is in it, instead by also choosing the hazelnuts we have control over all the raw materials. How do you state “made in Italy” in your products? Everything that we use, apart from the beans, of course, is made in Italy. The packaging, the pure cellulose paper, but above all the goodness of the product “speaks” Italian. Like the great Italian wines that have asserted themselves all over the world, also chocolate aspires to do the same. We are moving slowly, the difficulty is in the fact that there needs to be more profit, at the moment the culture of a “great” chocolate does not exist, but it will come. We are going ahead, little by little, with our idea of a top of the range product! Milena Novarino

NEWS

THE INIMITABLE MULTI-PURPOSE ASSISTANT MultiFresh®, the Irinox blast chiller that combines chilling functions (cooling, freezing, thawing, chocolate) and warming ones (low temperature cooking, regeneration, pasteurization, proofing, holding) in a single appliance, is now easier to use, thanks to MyA. MyA offers many opportunities: guided by intuitive icons, you can create a list of favourite cycles or record the ideal cycle by making ad hoc adjustments to the production process. You can find answers to all doubts about the new interface with a complete on-line guide, or choose the continuous cycle to freeze or chill for more than 8 hours without interruption. Using MultiFresh® you can chill or freeze with cycles dedicated to pastry, bakery, gelato and bread making. You can do safe, controlled thawing without stressing products; proof at constant temperature and humidity, in order to develop the structure and obtain crisp crumbly pastry products; cook meringue or pochè fruits at low temperature, going on automatically to chilling or freezing. And you can regenerate cooked products just in time for serving or hold at the required temperature. The operating principle of a blast chiller consists of extracting heat from products in the quickest way possible. The performance offered by MultiFresh® is the result of balanced main refrigerator components: the Irinox Balance System®, – condenser, evaporator, compressor and ventilators –extract heat from food as rapidly as possible, even from boiling hot items. Painstaking care with technical and production details is part of the know-how that has allowed Irinox to incorporate numerous patents in this machine: MultiRack®, an adjustable tray rack that doubles tray capacity on every model; Multisensor®, a 5-point probe for food temperature control, which comes with a patented system for automatically engaging with the door; Sanigen®, a chamber sanification system that eliminates the bacterial charge in the air as well as unpleasant odours. In addition, data logging is now wireless for downloading and saving the data for all work processes on dedicated software (HACCP Control Software). www.irinoxprofessional.com

A new collection Sheeps, bunnies and chicks, hearts, boxes, parchments, grooms and brides and ladybugs… here are some of the moulds of the new Martellato collection called Silicon Idea. After the great success of the first items, the range is enriched by several new models for Valentine’s Day, Carnival, Easter and special events. The line of moulds, made of durable foodsafe silicone, helps in creating 3D chocolate items fast and easily. Martellato products, entirely made in Italy. www. martellato.com

A NEW SUGAR PASTE The cake design trend has been gathering more and more, and bakers now compete to turn their cakes and sweets into creative works of art. Fabbri 1905 has thus created a revolutionary powder product to prepare white chocolate-flavoured sugar paste in an easy and practical manner. Some lukewarm water (27/30°C) has to be added to the powder and sugar paste is ready in just a few minutes. Suitable to cover cakes, the product can also be used as simple modelling paste, by adding less water (as described on the packaging). It reduces waste, because the paste can be prepared only when needed and in the necessary amount. It also offers the great advantage of making it easier to obtain the desired colour: no more kneading to mix the colour in, as it can be added to the water before mixing with the product. Moreover, Fabbri’s sugar paste is gluten free and does not contain trans fats. www.fabbri1905.com

BRAVO SUPPORTS RETINOSTOP ASSOCIATION IN THE RESEARCH AGAINST “RETINOBLASTOMA”

news

Patamix THE PATE A CHOUX MACHINE

For a perfect Pâte à Choux. After macaroons, the new trendy products of global pastry making - such as éclairs - require a perfect pâte à choux. This is why one of their gurus, Cristophe Adam, has set out to devise, together with Bravo, a technological solution for pastry chefs to be always one step ahead! sPonsor oF

Come to discover it at: SIGEP RImInI 17-21 jAn. C5 / 040

SIRhA lyon 24-28 jAn. 4F129

soCIAL

BRAVO S.P.A. vicenza, Italy Tel. 0039.0444.707.700 bravo.it - bravofrance.fr - bravo.asia - bravonorthamerica.com

PASTRY EVENTS

//bravospa

RECIPE

COSTA DEL SOLE For 12 jars

Carrot cake extra virgin olive oil sugar peeled carrots peeled sweet almonds whole eggs (n. 2) flour 00 baking powder for cakes Strega liqueur

g g g g g g g g

60 100 100 100 100 100 4 12

Grate the carrots and then place them in a chef mixer, together with all the ingredients. Beat for approx. 1 minute, until the mixture is smooth and silky. Divide it into 12 jars which have already been greased, up to a height of 1,5 cm. Place the open jars in the oven at 165°C for 12 minutes. Check if it is cooked using a skewer and then leave to cool at room temperature.

Buffalo yogurt mousse buffalo yogurt sugared semi-whipped cream egg yolks (n. 8) sugar water gelatine sheets

g g g g g g

600 480 160 200 100 12

Pour the water into a pan, add the sugar and heat to 121°C. Drizzle this solution onto the egg yolks which have been placed in a mixing bowl and whip with an electric mixer until they have quadrupled in quantity. To one side, in another bowl, semi-whip the cream with the sugar and then add the yogurt. Incorporate the warm gelatine, already melted over a very low flame after being left to soak

in cold water, to this latter mixture. Emulsify using an electric whisk and delicately add the whipped egg yolks, using a spatula. Pour the buffalo yogurt mousse into each jar, on top of the carrot cake, and place in the freezer for 30 minutes.

Orange gelatin orange juice sugar pectin large pieces of orange rind Costa d’Amalfi lemons gelatine

g g g g n. g

200 120 6 20 1 8

Lavender flower semi candied carrots small baby carrots n. sugar g water g dried lavender flowers g

24 200 200 2

Mix the sugar with the pectin and add the juice and the rind cut into julienne. Boil for 3 minutes and add lemon juice. Leave to cool and then pour a thin layer into the refrigerated jars.

Stew the carrots in water with the sugar and lavender flowers for 10 minutes. After approx. 12 hours, boil again for 1 minute and keep in fridge. To complete the dessert, decorate each jar with the lavender flower, semi candied carrots with. Serve at +4°C.

2015- www.piwwe.com - n. 26

Salvatore De Riso Tramonti, Italy www.salderiso.it

the inimitable multi-functional assistant becomes Organize your production and processes with flexibility 24 hours a day.

MyA is the new touch screen interface for MultiFreshÂŽ multi-function blast chillers that makes using the machine even easier and more intuitive. The icons guide you through the numerous functions with a wide choice of cycles designed to preserve the fragrance, flavour and aroma of each item. Full customization is possible only with MyA: itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to vary the parameters for each cycle and create the ideal process for every product.

Come and visit us at SIGEP in Rimini! HALL B1 STAND 160

...great news coming soon!