PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE World Wide Edition 27-2015

PA S T RY B A K E RY C O F F E E C U I S I N E

SUBLIME GOLD

Supplemento al n. 276, Settembre 2015 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 02 /2015 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718

PLACES WHERE IDEAS ARE IN CONSTANT MOTION THE FARMERS OF VALLE DELL’ANGELO FRUIT TART WITH LAVENDER CREAM A RAW FOODIST APPROACH COFFEE TO EAT SICILIAN BRIOCHE LEMON TIRAMISÙ COCOA TART NEWS

issue twenty-seven-2015

CHIRIOTTI EDITORI

10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.piwwe.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it

PA S T RY B A K E RY C O F F E E C U I S I N E

Sublime gold The farmers of Valle dell’Angelo A raw foodist approach Places where ideas are in constant motion Brioche con il tuppo Lemon Tiramisu Fruit tart with lavender cream Cocoa tart

News A new, unique, customized and compact holding cabinet Natural shape Quality that evolves Double fermentation The new line of chocolate decorations A versatile dispenser The seventh Gelato World Cup By your side in the pastry lab An updated magazine For small delicacies In Tokyo, the world’s first Gelato Pastry University Top international events and business tools at the 37th Sigep New models for elegant decorations Line R: just one machine, lots of applications

SUBLIME GOLD PLACES WHERE IDEAS ARE IN CONSTANT MOTION Supplemento al n. 276, Settembre 2015 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 02 /2015 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718

In this issue

THE FARMERS OF VALLE DELL’ANGELO FRUIT TART WITH LAVENDER CREAM A RAW FOODIST APPROACH COFFEE TO EAT SICILIAN BRIOCHE LEMON TIRAMISÙ COCOA TART NEWS

issue twenty-seven-2015

CHIRIOTTI EDITORI

10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480 www.piwwe.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 10064 Pinerolo (Torino) Viale della Rimembranza 60 tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480 info@pasticceriainternazionale.it EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Livia Chiriotti SENIOR EDITOR Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti NEWS EDITORS Cristina Quaglia Milena Novarino TRANSLATIONS Windsor - Pinerolo MARKETING EDITOR Monica Pagliardi ADVERTISING STRATEGIES Francesco Coppola ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Ottavio Chiriotti ART DIRECTOR Studio Impagina PRINTED BY Tipografia Giuseppini Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori Copyright © 2015 by Chiriotti Editori All rights reserved No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishing house Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale” n. 276 - 2015 ON OUR COVER The magic of time by Emmanuele Forcone, Francesco Boccia and Fabrizio Donatone

EVENTS

SUBLIME GOLD After 18 years, Italy won the 14th edition of the Coupe du Monde 2015 in Lyon. A precious silver for Japan and a bronze for the United States completed the podium. 21 teams from all over of the world – each composed of a pastry chef, a chocolate specialist and a gelato maker – competed in front of 2,700 enthusiastic supporters in an exceptional atmosphere. The Italian team captained

by Emmanuele Forcone, with Francesco Boccia and Fabrizio Donatone, was awarded the trophy after ten hours of intense competition where they demonstrated audacity, creativity and innovation. This is the 7th time Italy gets up to the podium.

The country’s previous achievements include 2 gold medals (2015-1997), 2 silver medals (2011-2009) and 3 bronze medals (20132007-2001). The theme chosen by the Italian team was “Peter Pan”, inspired by the famous novel written at the beginning of the 1900s which has always enthralled children and adults alike. The duel between the eternal boy and Captain Hook is one of the most intense memories of this extraordinary story, which is loved all over the world.

ent the presid llasson is Gabriel Pai e Coupe du Monde. th founder of

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CUORE, MANI, ALI. Come si diventa Campioni del Mondo di Pasticceria (HEART, HANDS, WINGS. How to become pastry world champions), by Chiriotti Editori and designed by DRG, is the new book illustrating the story of Fabrizio Donatone, Francesco Boccia and Emmanuele Forcone on their way to international praise and professional recognition. Beside their personal diaries telling a demanding and fulfilling adventure, the book contains the competition recipes and the contributions of people – colleagues, trainers, sponsors, the Club della Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie-Selezione Italia – supporting the three inspired and inspiring young Italian confectioners.

The English translation will be available soon. www.chiriottieditori.it - shop.chiriottieditori.it

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FRUIT ENTREMETS The gelato cake with fruit is an explosion of colour and has harmonic shapes from the magical world of our childhood. The external colouring gives importance to the fruit, which includes pineapple, strawberry, raspberry and mandarin, Avola almonds, Bronte pistachios. The entremets comes to life in a perfect balance of flavours and aromas, creating amazement through the innovative sorbet developed in diagonal strips of multi-flavours.

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EVENTS

THE STATUES: FIGHTING ON THE CROCODILE Captain Hook is made of sugar that has been pulled, blown and cast, and stands on the crocodile’s mouth, which is also made of sugar. One of the many technical difficulties in the preparation of this wonderful artistic piece was that of supporting the imposing figure of Captain Hook by just gluing the feet, considering that it weighs approximately 25 kg. The crocodile’s tail, carved from a single 25 kg block of chocolate, comes out of the water and allows Peter Pan to stand on it. This figure is also completely made of shaped, moulded and carved chocolate.

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THE MAGIC OF TIME is the CHOCOLATE ENTREMETS in segments, with a clock on top to indicate that for Peter Pan, and for all those who are young at heart, time never passes. It is a fresh dessert, with a thin layer of almond brittle, shaped in segments which is easy to cut. Inside there is exotic fruit and dry fruit (Avola almonds), making it light and fun. In this way the aromatic power of the chocolate is enhanced by exploiting the different textures: soft, creamy and fluffy. The Best Innovative Spirit was awarded for the perfect icing with dual colours.

The ICE

SCULPTURE featuring

TINKERBELL is made out of two blocks of ice, using gluing techniques for both the body and the wings. Dimensions: 25 cm deep, 100 cm high, 50 cm wide.

On the left, the sponsors of the Italian team.

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EVENTS

PLATED DESSERT It is a balance between the creaminess and fresh, slightly acid flavour of the red fruit, enhanced by the scent of the almonds and citrus fruit. The presentation of the dessert is linked to the figure of Captain Hook, which combines the elegance of a gentleman to the charm of an unscrupulous pirate. The great innovation is the meringue cylinder that encloses all the composition. Many of the judges have defined it as “revolutionary�.

Team Italy with (from the right) Gabriel Paillasson, Gino Fabbri, Denis Dianin, Iginio Massari, Armando Palmieri and Livia Chiriotti.

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THE PROJECT

Y R A S R E V 55 ANNI

To celebrate the 55 years of activity, Modecor presents Let’s Celebrate, the initiative to reward its faithful clients, the ones who keep choosing Modecor to decorate their sweet specialties not only on the Italian market. You may find more profiles on www.pasticceriaextra.it.

TH

Pasticceria Gelsomino Rotenwaldstraße 152 70197 Stuttgart (Germany) www.gelsomino.de

BACKGROUND

Pasticceria Gelsomino has a family tradition which dates back to 1917. Today, we have reached the fourth generation, with myself and my brother, Francesco. My paternal great-grandfather, who lived in Caltagirone, a small town in the province of Catania, was the founder of the business.

He was the person that started the artisanal production of nougat and the sweets of that period. In 1930 the pastry shop, which had already been open for some years in Niscemi (near Caltanissetta), was awarded the “Diploma d’Onore al Gran Distintivo”

by Umberto II, King of Italy.

In the 80’s the Gelsomino family experienced its best period. The award-winning pastry shop, in addition to its main shop in Via Mazzini, opened another laboratory making top-quality sweets made with almond paste and Torroncini (nougat cut into small rectangular shapes) which were shipped to several countries all over the world. In 1993 the family left Italy in order to open up a labo-

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ratory in Stuttgart. It is here, that they have been enhancing the value of the art of Italian confectionery (with Sicilian characteristics), with great spirit of self-sacrifice, for more than twenty years, using the best raw materials from leading companies in the sector. The deliciousness of the product is tested daily by their German customers, top class restaurants, luxury hotels, bars and cafes.

Do you remember the first time you entered a pastry shop?

The pastry shop has been as a second home for me ever since I was a child. My paternal grandparents inspired me to pursue this noble art through their love and dedication.

Giacomo Gelsomino and the decoration

What is your decorating style?

I love originality while trying to adapt to every style and request of the moment.

Which decorative techniques do you find most rewarding?

For me, confectionery has its own basic techniques. From this you can recognise its true identity… from a revisited classic.

Which product do you prefer in the Modecor range?

The Soggettini Line (figurines) and the floral decorations. In order to have a good cake you need quality and particular care in the preparation. These two elements are the “icing on the cake” for every good sweet.

What new products are you expecting from a company such as Modecor?

Modecor lends itself to new market trends every year, trying to expand its product range. We have perceived this from their intelligent investments in research, the acquisition of grand masters such as Davide Comaschi and the 2015 Collection, “expression of the productive and decorative identity of a confectioner”.

How do you think decorating trends will evolve over the next few years?

I think that the innovations will be based on an increasingly more refined technique and increasingly more modern decorating techniques. I do hope that the preservation and the valorisation of traditional craftsmanship are not lost, since they have always been the jewel in our crown.

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Crystal Decor

The innovative system to create transparent laces and decorations!

Pour the Crystal Decor into the Modecor Red Silicon Moulds

Y READ W IN FE ES T MINU

With the help of the Modecor Scraper spread the mixture, wait few seconds and... that’s all it takes!

Watch how to create Crystal Decor laces

Te l 0 3 3 2 6 5 8 3 1 1

QUALITY INNOVATION SERVICE

Quality

CONFECTIONERY

The farmers of Valle

DELL’ANGELO

“Farmer” intended in its most noble expression.

The return to their land, to their origins and true roots which characterizes Pietro Macellaro and his mate, Raffaella, advocates of an agro-food project which involves the cultivation and reinterpretation of raw materials This is the story of a gamble: how to make the love for you own land and a more innovative vision coexist, without territorial borders. A gamble that only Pietro Macellaro and only Raffaella, and only the two together, could win. They tell us their story, which is worthy of a film, with their eyes shining, full of satisfaction and serenity. Together, these two, have coined the term “farm confectionery” and, even though it may only seem like a great marketing idea, here, there are all the factors which demonstrate this definition, day after day.

This story begins in Piaggine, a small town with 900 inhabitants, south of Salerno, at the bottom of the Cilento area, set among panoramic peaks, rich vegetation and winding roads. However, to see the concrete result of their dream, you need to go to Valle dell’Angelo, an even more isolated area where there are no more than 150 inhabitants. Situated at 700 m, in a national park, the view is spectacular.

We are first met by an Arabian horse and then three dogs, Totò, Mimì and Paco, who lead us to an almond grove of Prunus Anigdalus Latuano and then on towards secular olive trees. Beyond that, figs and a forest of oak trees. In the vegetable garden, there are the native Quarantino Nano tomatoes, aubergines and many other types of vegetables. All carefully fenced in, because in this area there are problems with wolves, deer and wild boar.

Pietro is pleased to proudly define himself as a true farmer, even if it has not been easy for him to make this radical choice understood by everyone.

His family has lived in Piaggine for three generations and Pietro inherited the laboratory and shop from his grandfather.

After getting his diploma from the Etoile Academy, while it was still situated in Sottomarina, near Venice, he decided to give a strong innovative push to sweet products from the Cilento area, starting from the raw materials cultivated on his farm: extra-virgin olive oil, almonds, raisins, apricots, Annurca apples, percoca peaches, pomegranates, cherries, chestnuts and all kinds of aromatic herbs. He started to experiment, producing 65 types of compote, jams, jellies, but only a few “understand”, as he himself admits.

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Meanwhile, destiny brings him Raffaella Resca and his courage to dare and believe in himself grows, “we define each other”, Pietro specifies with decision.

From one day to the next, he closes the shop and starts a work of communication and image in order to explain and spread their “beliefs”. The desire to change grows, also thanks to specialization courses and chance meetings, such as that with Germany’s Bernd Siefert, the man who taught him about chocolate, and also some Italian experts such as Stefano Laghi, Emanuele Saracino and Donata Panciera. They tell us all about this while we are walking amongst aromatic herbs, from which they extract essential oils, since here, everything is used. Furthermore, after 4 years, this farm is completely biological, without the use of fertilizers.

Beyond their home, we come to the old barn where the ground floor has been transformed into a tasting room and the first floor contains guest rooms. Three floors that have been restored with loving care. It is superfluous to say that the surroundings are suggestive and rustic, and narrate all their love for the territory and sweets.

How do you make yourself known and increase your customers?

A lot of communication and we enhance the value of total freshness to a maximum. Since we no longer have a shop window or counter to “feed”, we prepare

the sweets on order and also tasting takes place following bookings. Everything is sold, subject to orders (even 2/4 months before), to specialised shops, both in Italy and abroad, which usually offer all kinds of delicatessen, and to restaurants having a medium/high target, that we have chosen personally and which intend to offer, with our help, the sweets that we produce. It is also possible to buy from our pastry shop and directly from our website www.pietromacellaro.it.

Do you travel a lot?

Yes, to make ourselves known, especially abroad. We export small quantities, also because we have many self-grown raw materials, with a limited production and when they are finished we stop the production.

We absolutely do not want to increase our production disproportionately, so as not to lose control over the care taken with the raw materials and the delicate and exclusive decorations. Therefore, anyone who wants to buy our products must know and understand them and know how to offer them in a suitable way.

Which of your specialities are most appreciated abroad?

Our baked products, especially in USA, England, Germany and Luxembourg, such as panettone and biscuits, as well as our mono-portion and small cakes, which are becoming more popular every year. We often receive visits from possible future foreign customers and customers from other re-

Delizia dal Cilento: Breton pastry (which is butter, almonds, sugar, bio dried figs from Cilento “of my own production”, buffalo-milk yoghurt and drops of rum) is served with a natural vanilla panna cotta and fig glaze. “Figs are difficult to work, especially when gelling them fresh. In fact, there are enzymes inside that destroy the proteins in the animal gelatine (hydrocolloid), which makes the gelling difficult. These enzymes are thermolable and by means of small and repeated heat treatments we are able to work them without problems”.

gions of Italy who have heard about our enterprise and want to learn about us. In any case, we always and only, direct our attention to importers and restaurateurs that want to offer a new product, which is healthy, natural but attractive and with a visual impact!

It is nice to wait for their expression and later on their hear their sensations when they taste the product together with us, amazed by these strange but at the same time innovative combinations. It is also curious that it is they who contact us and not us that contact them!

How do you pay attention to the image and packaging?

Here, Raffaella steps in, as she is concerned with this: “We studied all the packaging with the Più o Meno Agency, Angri. Then we developed a precise communication plan which helped to organize the chaos, especially Pietro’s!”. The concept of “farm confectionery” can be seen starting from the exterior of the product, as well as from the pride taken in writing “from Cilento”.

Pietro, how do you like to work?

I only use butter, fresh cream, extra-virgin olive oil and fruit in season. Each product is painstakingly checked, because the final result must not only be good but must also have a transparent and traceable production chain, trying to use products from our company as much as possible and, in addition, ingredients such as buffalo-milk butter produced by dairies in nearby Pa-

Malaga: buffalo-milk ricotta mousse, raisins soaked in rum, closed in two layers of sponge and with Muscovado sugar on top.

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CONFECTIONERY

estum, flour from the best mills in Cilento, Bronte pistachios, hazelnuts from Giffoni…

How do you find new suppliers and new ingredients?

We test our few suppliers personally. So, we closely follow, for example, milk, ricotta cheese and buffalo-milk butter, flour, ancient grains, etc., producing long-lasting collaboration, in order to carry out a lot of tests on raw materials and transformed products. We self-produce a lot of the remaining fruit and vegetable ingredients and aromatic plants on our organic farm.

Tell us about your leavened products.

At Christmas and Easter we produce panettone and colomba with extra-virgin olive oil and pieces of partly candied black olives, walnuts and chocolate drops.

Another speciality is Pan Brigante, conceived to re-evoke a bandit, Tardio, a leavened product similar to panettone filled with dry and candied fruit. The panettone collection consists of three filled/soaked and 12 winter classics. A particular one has aubergine (at 70° Brix) combined with pistachios and chocolate.

And your speciality?

Chocolates filled with a creamy ganache, flavoured with extra-virgin olive oil, barrel fermented red wine, figs, hazelnuts or Cilento honey. Locos biscuits made with buffalo-milk butter, chocolate and almonds, and Namaì made with hazelnuts, buffalo-milk butter and cocoa, following my grandfather’s recipe.

Then there are the sweet and sour jams to accompany cheese and boiled or grilled

Raffaella and Pietro.

Perlanera: buffalo-milk ricotta, orange, chocolate drops, without sponge so that it is gluten free.

Chocolate mousse 70% with cocoa grue, red tomato aspic, sweet red pepper bavarese, “which I prepare with a part of bavarese base, sweet red peppers boiled in water and blended and fresh cream, all stabilized with animal gelatine. Usually, I serve it with a dark chocolate mousse 65% or 70% of cocoa and a wonderful red tomato aspic, also cooked and blended”.

Chocolate with powdered Corno di Capra di Controne chilli.

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“Pan dei Briganti” is a tribute to the area, full of caves, where, it seems the bandits would hide. It is a leavened product similar to panettone, filled with dried and candied fruit.

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Be the Winner with Kit Ali di Fata!

Silikomart Professional in collaboration with the Italian Team, winner at the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie 2015, created a kit that enables to re-make the world’s winner fruit entremet.

Italian Team: Fabrizio Donatone - Francesco Boccia - Emmanuele Forcone

REGISTERED DESIGN

professional.silikomart.com

CONFECTIONERY

meat. The most particular are: the sweet and sour jam with figs and onions, the green tomato and citrus fruit compote, the wild apple and star anise compote, the white grape jelly with saffron, the white fig and green tea jam. Then there are all kinds of cakes, such as “Delizia del Cilento” with ricotta cheese, pears and Cilento figs; “Ronna Munacelle”, cookies with Giffoni hazelnuts covered with a caramel cream and a layer of diced pear; “Rapsodia alla canella” with chocolate, crème brulé and cinnamon bavarese…

And the small cakes?

Following the seasonality of the ingredients: “Bacco” with milk chocolate mousse and a filling in the centre of Aglianico wine from Cilento; “Fragomela” with apple bavarese with a soft strawberry centre; “Perlanera” with ricotta di bufala cream, candied orange and dark chocolate; “Malaga” with buffalo-milk ricotta mousse with raisins soaked in rum and strawberry tree fruit… We insert 9 small cakes in each box.

What are the most common comments made by your new customers?

They are all very gratifying. Many write to us because in a lot of our products, such as the panettone, they find an innovative impact in the perfumes and flavours.

Others are surprised by the new aromatic combinations even in our classic products.

We enjoy stimulating this discovery of new sensorial experiences, well aware that it is not easy to make certain recipes understo-

od by a lot of people who are used to synthetic flavours and chemical aromas, which are much stronger than natural ones!

SOUR BLACK CHERRY AND PISTACHIO CAKE Pistachio pastry, sour black cherries, almonds and pistachio bavarese For the sour black cherry gelatine for filling gelatine sheets g 16 sour black cherry puree g 500 sugar g 100

Leave the gelatine to soften in cold water. Add the sugar to the fruit puree and stir. Squeeze and dissolve the gelatine, add it to the puree and pour into half-sphere shaped silicon moulds. Freeze.

For the Bronte pistachio mousse gelatine sheets fresh cream 35% fat, whipped fresh whole milk sugar egg yolks pistachio paste

g g g g g g

14 750 75 120 120 150

Leave the gelatine to soften in cold water. Beat the yolks with the sugar and the milk, then cook at 85° C. Squeeze the gelatine, add to the hot cream and while stirring, add the pistachio paste. When the mixture is cold, lighten with the whipped cream. Remove the sour black cherry gelatine half-spheres from the mould, place them on the bottom of a steel ring. Do not place them too close to one another. Pour the pistachio mousse on top and freeze.

For the pistachio pastry with sour black cherries butter g 200 icing sugar g 200 almond grains g 200 pistachio grains g 50 wheat starch g 25 rum g 25 eggs g 150 whole buffalo-milk yoghurt g 400 pistachio paste g 70 sour black cherries g 300

Beat all the ingredients together except for the cherries, pour into a pre-baked base. Place the cherries inside and bake at 180°C for approx. 20 minutes.

For the decoration chocolate mixture for spraying green colouring cherry puree

g 200 to taste to taste

Final composition

Remove the pistachio mousse from the mould. While still cold, spray the chocolate mixture with the green colouring. Place on top of the pistachio and sour black cherry tart and decorate.

Pietro Macellaro Pasticceria Agricola Cilentana - Piaggine, Salerno, Italy www.pietromacellaro.it

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NEWS

A NEW, UNIQUE, CUSTOMIZED AND COMPACT HOLDING CABINET Irinox has completed its holding cabinet range with the new Cp One model that provides different temperatures and humidity levels plus large storage capacity in a compact unit. It is designed for confectioners, gelato and bread makers who need to program their holding cabinet according to seasonal production: positive (from 0° to +15°C), negative (from 0° to -30°C) and temperatures ideal for storing chocolate (from +13° to +15°). In addition, professionals can customize the humidity most appropriate to their products, selecting one of the three available humidity levels, from 50% to 90% RH. The Cp On’s combined temperature and humidity control create an ideal environment that is not too dry, while providing the correct cold temperature inside the holding chamber.

The fundamental secret for top quality cold storage preservation is a constant temperature and perfect air circulation in all chamber shelves. Cp One guarantees the absence of temperature change between the upper and lower parts of the chamber as well as preventing cold dispersion each time the door is opened. Total control of the programmed temperature and extremely rapid temperature recovery are guaranteed by the Irinox Balance refrigeration system and a thermostatic valve. Hot gas defrosting of the chamber can be carried out personally by the operator to prevent the forming of ice that often causes the holding cabinet to fail. Cp One is equipped with Sanigen®, the patented Irinox air sanification system that sanitizes the chamber completely, eliminating bacterial contamination and unpleasant refrigerator odours.

The new holding cabinet has been equipped with many of the Irinox construction elements such as an automatic door closure with magnetic seal, a pivot hinge for soft door closure, and a blocking system that prevents banging against other equipment. In addition, the handle is made to Irinox design and internal illumination operates with LED lighting.

The Cp One has large storage capacity holding up to 33 trays (60 x 80 cm) and between 36 and 54 gelato tubs in a compact unit that can be easily incorporated into any commercial kitchen: W 810 x D 1054 x H 2085 mm. It is available in various versions: single or double door, either completely built in stainless steel or with glass doors. www.irinoxprofessional.com

Natural shape Sinuous and perfect lines, recalling the natural shape of a pebble smoothed by water, are the distinctive features of ZEN100, the exclusive mould by Silikomart Professional characterized by great flexibility and a special design.

The ideas of beauty and simplicity merge with experience and creativity in this mould, thus balancing harmony and proportions. ZEN100 is suitable for the making of semifreddos, mousses and baked products (max 100 ml volume). www.silikomart.com

QUALITY THAT EVOLVES Icam, the Italian company producer of high quality chocolate born in 1946 on the Como lake, confirms its innovative presence in Expo with interesting and engaging events.

In addition to the cooking shows that take place in the Cocoa & Chocolate Cluster with renowned chocolate and pastry chefs that use Icam chocolate, in June the Italian chocolate company organized a successful event at Cascina Triulza to tell the story of its sustainable project in Uganda.

Expo theme, “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life”, is perfectly applied in Uganda district of Bundibugyo, where Icam set up in 2010 a subsidiary to support the cultivation and processing of the fine cocoa that these mountain lands offer.

As Andrea Perrone - Full Professor of Commercial Law in Cattolica University - explained, “Icam’s model is an example of social company: it aims at economic efficiency and, at the same time, changes the social context where it works”.

In fact, the project in Uganda has demonstrated that Icam’s serious commitment and competence ensure both product quality and respect for the individual, all at a fair price that guarantees sales and growth opportunities to both sellers and buyers.

Angelo Agostoni, Icam’s president, explained that Icam has achieved these results controlling the entire production chain, from cocoa beans to the final product. He clarified that Icam’s project in Uganda is not an overly sympathetic model, but a way to allocate resources and profit taking into consideration all the elements engaged in the production activity, and not only the capital remuneration.

As the exponents from Uganda said during the convention, Icam’s project has boosted growth in the area and has been a driving force for the social-economic development of the local community. www.icamprofessionale.it

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CHOCOLATE

A RAW FOODIST APPROACH It is probably not what you expected but you like it and remain surprised. You taste it and discover the essence of the flavours in the ingredients: sweets by Grezzo Raw Chocolate, Rome We are getting close to the “zero” point of a new adventure in the world of confectionery.

Grezzo, already a mandatory stop in the rione Monti in Rome (a central district of the town), is taking its first steps in Milan by opening a new store. The uniqueness of their confectionery has won over the residents in Rome, and every day, surprises foreigners that visit the workshops and small shops in the narrow streets of the district and on line orders come from all over the world. Together with the protagonists of this adventure, chef Vito Cortese and Nicola Salvi, we can learn about the secrets of raw confectionery: it is nature that amazes with its richness of ingredients in a rediscovery of raw intended as richness. A lot of “imaginary” trips around the world, stimulating curiosity, a love for healthy living, a lot of experimentation and studying in America.

Entering Grezzo you are projected into an evolution of sweets. Richness coexists with lightness, here there is a new concept of food. We move from eating to nourishing, instead of eating more we need to nourish better. It becomes important to respect food and there can be no compromises regarding the quality of the raw materials. “Communication leads us to associate the very elaborate with the good and refined. The revolution of Grezzo is found in making people understand that this is not the case for food” explains Salvi.

Cortese is inspired by traditional sweets and he re-proposes them with a raw twist. No leavening and no baking which can alter the natural quantity of the nutritious components in the food. At Grezzo, the names from the traditional sweet dictionary are used just to give an idea of what the product is, what is called tiramisù has nothing to do with the classic one that we all know. It has coffee but no eggs, it does not have mascarpone cheese or savoiardi (sponge fingers). Yet, we should not be surprised by how it appealing it is to the eye of the sweet-toothed while being sweet at the same time!

Biscuits are called crudotti or biscrudi and are a mixture of hazelnut flour and coconut sugar which are left for 12-14 hours – and sometimes for 24 hours – to dry. The size of the sweets in the shop window seem small, but they are actually very rich, since they are not leavened there is no air. It is left to the nutrients to satiate and there are a lot in these sweets!

The counter.

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Richness and lightness are also reflected in the logo, in the contrast between the elegance of the gold colour and the name Grezzo. The walls of the shop are in raw clay, the tables and chairs are made of eco-sustainable materials, zero plastic and the ingredients used in the recipes are on show in small glass jars. A reasoned minimal presentation in order to

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Non of the preparations are cooked.

make the products protagonists… Those products, that sometimes come from afar and which relive in a laboratory in the form of an innovative recreation of the processes that exist nature. No ovens, only blenders and dryers which, with a resistor and a fan, recreate the sun and wind. In effect, drying is the main working process, carried out at 42°C, which is the maximum temperature on the Earth leaving the properties of the food intact.

Extreme is a bar of chocolate which has this name because it is produced with the 80% of untoasted cocoa beans, which are fermented and then just dried. This chocolate preserves the nutrients that would normally be lost at high temperatures, in this way it becomes more exceptional than conventional chocolate, considering the

fact that a cocoa bean contains a good 800 micro-nutrients. Even if slightly floury due to the lack of conching, this chocolate is pleasant to the palate and very particular thanks to the coconut sugar used.

Cortese explains how several ingredients used in his recipes are extracted from coconut. When the coconut is green, it has a soft pulp and is rather gelatinous with a very low fat content and this is used to beat and create consistency and creams.

Extra virgin oil is extracted by pressing the pulp of the mature fruit and coconut flour is obtained from what remains. This flour which only has 9% fat, is without gluten, is almost impalpable with a hint of coconut, is rich in fibres and does not require cooking. When the fruit in flower, holes are made and lymph is extracted from

the palm, it is fermented and then dried obtaining a sweetener, a sugar with a low glycemic value, 35 instead of the 70/75 of white or brown sugar, perhaps it is a little more damp than normal but in compensation is rich in mineral salts, because it has not been refined.

Apart from coconut sugar, the only sweeteners used are a date cream and agave syrup, dark but very aromatic. An Irish seaweed is used to recreate the soft consistency which is similar to sponge.

In conclusion, it was the carrot cake that won us over. In a perfect American style, when tasted we rediscovered a burst of spices, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon and ginger that enhance the single and tasty carrot, simply mixed with different types of flour.

Chiara Mancusi

Hazelnut Brownies 6 portions

raw hazelnuts date cream, cup raw cocoa powder coconut sugar coconut flour vanilla, teaspoon

g n g g g n

100 ½ 40 50 30 ½

Use a blender to turn the hazelnuts into a flour. In a bowl, add it to all the other ingredients and mix. Press the mixture into a mould, sprinkle with cocoa powder and serve. It is recommended to leave it to set in the fridge for at least an hour before serving. Store in the fridge for up to a week.

Date cream (makes 3/4 cups) giant Medjoul dates water, cup

n n

7 ½

Remove the stones and blend the dates with the water. It can be used as a sweetener in other recipes. Store in fridge for up to a week.

Vito Cortese Raw Foodist Chef Grezzo Raw Chocolate - Rome www.grezzoitalia.it

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NEWS

DOUBLE FERMENTATION Thirty years after developing Guanaja 70%, which at the time was the bitterest chocolate in the world, and creating the first “blond” chocolate, Dulcey, Valrhona once again redraws the boundaries of chocolate with an innovative process of double fermentation, which paves the way for a new generation of aromatic profiles.

But what is it? When the first fermentation period is complete and the initial aromas unveiled, a new ingredient is introduced into the boxes of cocoa beans, to begin a second phase of fermentation. Valrhona experts came up with the idea of adding fruit pulp, naturally high in sugar, which triggers a second fermentation phase that imparts new distinctive aromatic qualities to chocolate. More than ten years of research have been spent into the development of this new aromatic universe, with Valrhona and partner growers working hand-in-hand, and the result is an exclusive new range of naturally fruity chocolates.

Itakuja 55% is characterized by an explosion of fruity aromas at the start, which gradually give way to the roundness of chocolate from Brazil. Distinctive flavor precursors originated from the terroir are developed in a first fermentation phase. A second fermentation period starts with the introduction of locally harvested passion fruits, which infuse the cocoa beans with fruity notes. The distinctive aromatic characteristics of Brazil are balanced between these notes and chocolatey intensity. It’s a complete symbiosis of chocolate and passion fruit and the infused flavors are in perfect harmony with the chocolate aromas, thus creating a special profile.

Sweet and fresh, the first impression Mananka 62% gives is a glimpse of intense citrus notes and graceful acidity, supported by a perfectly roasted and chocolatey core. A pleasantly bitter finish tops off the chocolate’s complex character. The first phase of fermentation enables the special aroma precursors for this cocoa-beans origin to develop. Fruit pulp from oranges harvested in the same area is then added to begin a second fermentation period, that infuses the cocoa beans with citrus notes, which are fresh, balanced, harmonious and slightly sweet. The orange-infused flavors are in harmony with the chocolate aromas for a complex profile. www.valrhona-chocolate.com

The new line of chocolate decorations For Modecor Italiana, 2015 is the year of chocolate decorations. The Italian company has chosen the winner of the World Chocolate Masters 2013 to offer the best to pastry chefs: Davide Comaschi. After the success of the Chocolate Decoration concept presented in the General Catalogue, Davide and Modecor’s team launch a new Chocolate Chablon Decorations collection, renovated in colours and shapes with a view to the Christmas period.

Davide, how did you start your collaboration with Modecor Italiana?

When one year ago Modecor contacted me, I was thinking that this company was just a little part of the huge world of pastry decoration’s producers. Soon I understood that I was wrong: Modecor is a very well structured reality, a professional company managed by good people. During this experience, everyone has given and received so much both from the professional and the human point of view.

Can you describe the new line?

The Modecor team and I worked together with the common goal to make the work easy for pastry chefs, offering them ready-to-use chocolate decorations that can enhance the taste and the overall aesthetic of their creations. Our decorations can become an integral part of a cake without affecting its original tastee.

What is the Comaschi Kit? Every Comaschi Kit is composed of a set of chocolate decorations of various sizes to decorate a full cake in an elegant way. For the 2015 Christmas Collection, they are available in three forms – circle, square and heart-shaped – in dark chocolate with 4 new graphics specifically designed for the winter season.

The Comaschi Kits can be used on cakes, petit fours and small cakes. Every package contains 8 kits to decorate up to 8 cakes.

The range is completed with Transfer Sheets for chocolate and the ColorCioc, i.e. cocoa butter based food colourings fit to match with dark and white chocolate. All the products are gluten free.

Could you give some advice about the best use of these products?

With Transfer Sheets you can create personalized decorations, with new and elegant shapes. ColorCioc colourings have deep and super brilliant colours: for an amazing effect, I suggest to use them directly in the moulds for chocolate making. The strength of these chocolate decorations resides in their handcrafted production: Modecor chooses the best raw materials to obtain perfect ready to use products.

For more info, www.modecor.it or call +39 0332 658 311.

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A versatile dispenser Tuttuno by Selmi is a dispenser able to simultaneously create in a single-procedure-filled products such as pralines on polycarbonate moulds, boules, mini eggs and products with particular features. The machine injects, using various times and modalities, chocolate and fillings in percentages established by the client, thus simultaneously producing the external chocolate coating and the internal contents of the praline. The introduction of the chocolate and the filling is via a pair of hoppers at the head of the machine, which are thermo regulated by two Color Ex tempering machines, connected to the pumped recirculation system. The machine needs to be connected to a compressed air source. www.selmi-chocolate.it

futura ex New version with Screwpump removable®

Tank capacity: 35 kg.

Hourly production: 170 kg.

Power consumption: 2.5 kW – three phase, 5 poles.

www.selmi-group.it Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN) Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 info@selmi-group.it

PLACES WHERE ARE IN CONSTANT MOTION IDEAS

GELATO

22

Not only gelato: the concept of Carapina, created by Simone Bonini, is divided between three sales points in Florence and Rome

Do not call it a gelato parlour. Carapina is much more. Two sales points in Florence and one in Rome, rooted in recent history made up of flair, creativity and a desire to change.

Creator and mentor of this temple of taste where, from the furnishings to gelato, everything narrates an idea and a passion, is the eclectic Simone Bonini who opened the first sales point in Piazza Oberdan in Florence, in 2008. Confectionery laboratory in full view, 16 flavours that change with the seasons, carapina gelato boxes and not only, containers for storing gelato: ahead of his time, with many ideas that then led the way. Because Simone Bonini is a bit like this, a subversive of flavours, one who does not mince his words, who says what he does and that above all does what he says. Having abandoned the business sector from where he originated, he decided to follow his love for the “good” and for cooking, which has always marked the story of his life and his family. With his inevitable curiosity and the experience and tenacity of a mature man, he put himself on the line and started a new professional career. He learned how to make gelato, he studied, experimented, got to know: an attentive observer of all that happens inside the world of food. Everything affects him and nothing is catalogued according to strict rules. Only one rule exists, which cannot be bent: ready-made bases are forbidden. Everything at Carapina is prepared fresh when required. Here, where five neutral bases are made, depending on the preparations required, classic and original flavours are prepared ranging from chocolate to hazelnut or pistachio right up to the best sellers, such as “Crema dell’Artusi”, “fresco Carapina”, made with milk and an infusion of mint, peaty whisky flavour, Marsala or Vin Santo sauces, panettone flavour (in winter) or “castagnaccio”. Only fresh fruit is used and cleaned and cut as required, as is the cheese which is the main ingredient for an exceptional gelato. It is here that what we now all know as gastronomic gelato was created. Liberal combinations between the world of food and that of gelato, which led Carapina to be the first to prepare flavours such as “IgrandiFormaggiItaliani” (Great Italian cheese), rosemary flavoured gelato, and flavours such as basil, foie gras or Pachino tomato sorbet.

“I have always wondered why – explains Bonini –, gelato is offered at the end of a meal, as good as it is, it is always characterised by the same flavours. This is why I started working on savoury flavours or anyway on flavours that could be paired with other raw materials and that were able to create curiosity, to innovate what was on offer. This is how gelatos inspired by wines or cheeses were created. “IgrandiFormaggiItaliani”, for example, is a flavour that can always be found in our sales points and which, each time, is prepared with Parmigiano cheese matured for 24 months or with Grana Padano cheese, Pecorino cheese from Tuscany, Sardinia, or

2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 27

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GELATO Lazio, Buffalo Mozzarella, Caprino cheese or Gorgonzola”. There are many recipes and they are always different, the raw materials used are of quality, such as the milk which comes from the nearby Maremma region. However, people do not only come to Carapina just for the gelato, people also come because this place is like home, it always narrates something new. An example of this is the many excellent Italian products that can be purchased there, from Bonajuto’s Modica chocolate of which Carapina has a limited series, to Felicetti pasta or that of the Pastificio dei Campi, from Krumiri Rossi from Casale Monferrato to Kambly biscuits that arrive directly from Switzerland. Even the coffee here has a different taste. Ca’Vè Coffee from Venice and various blends are offered.

Therefore Carapina is not only gelato, but also a place where you can meet friends, a place that can have an effect on you and a place where ideas are in constant motion. Always.

Sarah Scaparone www.carapina.it

The 7th Gelato World Cup From the 23th to the 26th of January 2016, 14 national teams coming from different countries will compete for the title of world champions at the 7th edition of the Gelato World Cup. Organized by Gelato e Cultura and Rimini Fiera during Sigep, this biennial competition is one of the most awaited professional events. In the last months various selections took place in order to form national teams. Each one includes a gelato maker, a pastry chef, a chef and an ice sculptor.

In Italy the selection was held last January at the Sigep Gelato d’Oro, the national competition organized by Rimini Fiera and Arti e Mestieri Club. Last February, during Expo Sweet in Warsaw, the best professionals in Poland were selected, while in March, at the Internorga fair in Hamburg, the selection was held in Germany. In June in Buenos Aires, three Latin American teams were formed: Argentina, Chile and Mexico. Other countries – Australia, Japan, Morocco, Swiss and the USA – will also participate with their teams.

The competitors will have to deal with gelato and pastry making, gourmet cuisine and ice sculpture. The gelato makers will be asked to pass a test about balancing in gelato recipes, production philosophy and techniques, and four practical tests, i.e. the making of a milk-based gelato served on a cone; a water-based gelato decorated in a transparent container; three pezzi duri and, in line with market trends, a gourmet gelato made with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Each chef will have to prepare three entrées to be served with the gourmet gelato, which will be valued according to their taste and aesthetics. Moreover, each pastry chef will have to carve a sculpture made of brittle, with the aim of resuming an old confectionery tradition and thus giving vent to one’s creativity. A special prize will be awarded for the aesthetics of the brittle and ice sculptures, which will be judged by renowned art experts. www.coppamondogelateria.it The French team won the last edition of the Gelato World Cup in 2014.

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Your specialities, our passion.

Disposable Cups

www.martellato.com MADE IN ITALY

Ask for 2015/16 catalogue to see all the NOVELTIES

NEWS

By your side in the pastry lab In collaboration with Christophe Adam, the well-known “guru” of éclairs from Paris, Bravo has designed and launched Patamix, a technology for pâte à choux.

The machine is equipped with two automatic programs for the making of pâte à choux either with the traditional method, or according to Adam’s recipes. Its distinctive feature is the innovative mixing system with both a fixed and a mobile part, whose combined motion ensures an optimal product texture. All processing phases take place inside the machine: from feeding with ingredients to heating and baking, as well as the making of a perfectly smooth mixture.

Patamix is highly performing and allows pastry chefs not only to work half-load, but also to run repeated consecutive cycles, without cleaning the machine in between.

As for professional tempering, Bravo K24Evo is a continuous tempering machine for a chocolate production. With a 24 kg capacity tank, it is equipped with refined and patented technologies, e.g. the anti-congealing lamps, which heat the grid of the conveyor belt to avoid chocolate solidification, and the stainless steel tap, which supplies the arc diffuser for a total enrobing. K24Evo is also equipped with a special device to tighten the paper. Moreover, the Magic Carpet is a unique coating belt with a “reverse” device to invert the belt direction and enrobe truffles. www.bravo.it

An updated magazine

For small delicacies

Seven years ago Chiriotti Editori published the first issue of “Alimenti Funzionali”, a magazine dealing with themes such as health, wellness and beauty through functional food, probiotics, nutritional supplements... Since March 2015 the same magazine has been renewed and updated in contents and graphics, in order to show the evolution of this field, focusing on nutrition and fitness, functional food, health and wellness, beauty, cosmetics, food laws, research and much more, which can be stimulating themes also for open-minded pastry artisans.

It is possible to download a free copy as an App from iTunes and from shop.chiriottieditori.it and browse it from http://issuu.com/chied/docs/af15-1web.

Constant updates are in Alimenti Funzionali’s Facebook page. www.chiriottieditori.it

Bigatton produces high quality ingredients not only for gelato makers but also for confectioners, offering a wide choice of products intended for professionals, thus helping them to quicken their work. The company located in Portogruaro, near Venice, exports all over the world and their products can be used anytime: the cannolo and copite line can serve as base products for the making of mousses, creams, chantilly and other small delicacies. Their wafer cannolo is a market leader product combining wafer crunchiness with chocolate delightfulness. www.bigatton.com

IN TOKYO, THE WORLD’S FIRST GELATO PASTRY UNIVERSITY The first Gelato Pastry University in the world will open its doors in Tokyo. It is a unique and innovative training program conceived as an offshot of Carpigiani Gelato University, whose mission is to develop new ways to fuse traditional Italian gelato and high-level pastry.

Structured to perform as a laboratory of ideas focused on high quality, Gelato Pastry University will offer participants a high-level curriculum, employing part of Carpigiani Gelato University’s methods and objectives. The school has been designed to meet the needs of professionals looking to expand their training, with the aim of developing new and creative product lines. The headquarters will be located in Japan, a country where the art of pastry has reached maximum levels of perfection and innovation. The challenge is to develop a new segment of pastry that features the culture of artisanal gelato. The official presentation will be held at Gelato World Tour Village at Komazawa Park, during the event which will make Tokyo the “gelato world capital” for three days, from 4th to 6th September. www.gelatopastryuniversity.com

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Your specialities, our passion.

Professional Moulds for 3D Subjects

m

t e n ag

Hallo

www.martellato.com MADE IN ITALY

Ask for 2015/16 catalogue to see all the NOVELTIES The quality of the polycarbonate used to produce Martellato moulds assures the best production of bright and elegant subjects and chocolate pralines.

RECIPES

BRIOCHE CON IL TUPPO SICILIAN BRIOCHES The “brioche con il tuppo” (Sicilian brioches) are a flagship of Sicillian patisserie. Soft and tasty, they are eaten all over the island, and are usually eaten together with another local delight, the granita. The name of this brioche derives from its shape, which recalls the traditional chignon Sicilian women used to wear, fastened low at the nape of the neck, and which in local dialect is called “tuppo”. Originally the “brioche col tuppo” were prepared with lard, but today this has been substituted with butter which gives a sweeter and more delicate taste.

For 25 pieces of 100 g each milk yeast sugar eggs wheat flour 00 sourdough refreshed twice salt butter 82% fat liquid butter 99.9% fat orange paste

g g g g g g g g g g

308 38 163 163 922 217 22 163 108 163

Mix together the fresh milk, sugar and yeast, leave to rise at 28°C for approx. 1 hour, and anyway, until the liquid mixture has doubled. Add the flour, sourdough and eggs, knead for approx. 15 minutes. Add the salt and straightaway afterwards add the two butters mixed together with the orange paste. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and leave to rise for approx. 2 hours at room temperature. After this, place in the fridge for another 12 hours. The dough will mature and be tastier. Since it contains a large quantity of butter, the cold will help to work it better. When this time has elapsed, take the leavened dough from the fridge and work it immediately, lightly flour the worktop, place the dough on it and break into pieces of approx 100 g each. Lengthen, giving it the shape of a French stick and about a 1/3 of the way down squeeze the dough, without dividing it into 2 pieces, so that it looks like a skittle. Having done this, put a hole in the centre of the larger piece and pass the smaller part through the hole. Place on a tray, brush with beaten egg and place in a proover to rise at 27°C for approx. 2 hours. Brush with egg again, sprinkle with icing sugar and bake at 180°C for approx. 14 minutes.

Giambattista Montanari Corman Professional demonstrator www.molinopasini.com photo Giancarlo Bononi

This recipe comes from “pH 4.1 - Scienza e artigianalità della pasta lievitata”, a new book by Giambattista Montanari published by Chiriotti Editori with the collaboration of Corman and Molino Pasini (pages 438 - € 70.00 - shop.chiriottieditori.it).

This volume is also available as an e-book on the AppStore Apple, downloading the Chiriotti Editori app.

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69 years of confectionery's tradition and innovation

Cannolo granulated pued rice Cod. CAM004

e best ingredients for ice cream and pastries since 1946 www.bigatton.com - bigatton@bigatton.com - Bigatton Produzione +39 0421 271554

www.accademiabigatton.com

RECIPES

Lemon Tiramisù lemon tiramisù light sponge Amalfi Coast lemon flavouring Limoncello syrup 14° Total weight 6.4 Kg

g g g g

4,294 1,125 500 500

% 66.90 17.53 7.79 7.79

Prepare the lemon flavouring, then the Limoncello syrup, and finally the sponge. While they are cooling prepare a classic tiramisù.

This composition includes a sponge soaked with Limoncello with a lemon tiramisù. Spread a thin layer of white chocolate on a Silpat, place it on the tiramisù and put in a blast chiller. Once hardened, remove the Silpat. Add another layer of lemon tiramisù, then a thin layer of white chocolate, as before. Finish with another layer of tiramisù. Blast chill, cut in order to obtain petits gâteaux, small pastries or cakes.

Recipe for three layers 60x40 h 3.5 cm.

Nutritional values for 100 g of product energy (kj) 729.99 energy (kcal) 174.36 carbohydrates (g) 17.67 fats (g) 10.73 proteins (g) 2.06

Amalfi Coast lemon flavouring lemons sugar fondant Total weight 0.50 Kg

g g g

200 200 100

% 40 40 20

Cut up the lemons, remove seeds and blend all three ingredients together. Sieve using a food mill and store in fridge.

Nutritional values for 100 g of product energy (kj) 936.17 energy (kcal) 223.60 carbohydrates (g) 56.43 fats (g) 0 proteins (g) 0.03

Limoncello syrup 14° Limoncello 70° sugar water Total weight 0.50 Kg

g g g

83.3 208 208

% 16.67 41.67 41.67

Light sponge egg yolks egg whites sugar flour 160/180 W Total weight 1.1 Kg

250 500 150 225

% 22.22 44.44 13.33 20

Beat the yolks with 500 g of sugar until pale yellow in colour, then beat the egg whites with the remaining sugar. Add a little of the beaten egg whites to the yolks and mix in the flour. Finish folding in the egg whites, shape as required and bake at 160°C for 20 minutes.

Nutritional values for 100 g of product energy (kj) 394.37 energy (kcal) 94.19 carbohydrates (g) 13.26 fats (g) 3.60 proteins (g) 2.45

Lemon tiramisù sugar water egg yolks vanilla beans gelatine mascarpone cheese cream cream Amalfi Coast lemon flavouring Total weight 4.29 Kg

g g g n g g g g g

480 120 400 4 30 1,320 640 1,000 300

% 11.18 2.79 9.32 0.09 0.70 30.74 14.90 23.29 6.99

Cook the sugar, water, egg yolks and vanilla in a microwave oven and beat. Leave the gelatine to soak, once softened dissolve in the microwave oven and fold into the beaten mixture. Whip the mascarpone with 640 g of cream until shiny and fold into the beaten mixture. Finally fold in the whipped cream.

Nutritional values for 100 g of product energy (kj) 799.75 energy (kcal) 191.02 carbohydrates (g) 11.59 fats (g) 15.09 proteins (g) 2.44

Prepare a syrup using the water and sugar and add the Limoncello.

Nutritional values for 100 g of product energy (kj) 679.92 energy (kcal) 162.40 carbohydrates (g) 41.04 fats (g) 0 proteins (g) 0

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2015 - www.piwwe.com - n. 27

Alfonso Pepe Pasticceria Pepe Sant’Egidio del Monte Albino, Salerno, Italy www.pasticceria-pepe.it photo Piero Garofalo

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33

NEWS

TOP INTERNATIONAL EVENTS AND BUSINESS TOOLS AT THE 37th SIGEP From Expo to Sigep: an ideal “handover” will continue highlighting the quality of Italian-made food and confirm the important role of the 37th SIGEP. The leading gelato, pastry, confectionery and bakery exhibition will be held at Rimini Fiera from 23rd to 25th January 2016. The previous edition was attended by over 187,000 trade visitors, 38,000 of whom were from abroad, welcoming the sector’s excellent level of innovation and quality.

For SIGEP 2016 top international events have already been planned: the Gelato World Cup, for which participants have increased to 14; The Pastry Queen, the competition dedicated to the most talented ladies from the five continents… not to mention dozens of other events, including celebrations for the members of the Italian team who won the World Pastry Cup in January 2015, in Lyon.

Another record-breaking edition is on the cards on the expo front too: in recent months the demand has grown and the 16 halls will be entirely occupied. Also worthy of note is the great increase in the coffee area.

This is one of the results of the ”SIGEP all year” project, with the events that follow one another throughout the year and the facilities conceived to assist exhibitors. From Sistema Sigep to support internationalization activity to Sigep Boost, useful for backing enterprises’ business with the expo’s communication media. Top Buyers from 5 Continents is the platform on which supply and demand meet, while a great promotional investment addressing Asia, North and South America was made for 2016. Alongside the next edition there will be RHEX, Rimini Horeca Expo, which will host products and technology for catering and food service.

Moreover, a new image has been conceived to promote the 2016 edition and exalt Italian-made products. The campaign’s headline is “The art of Italian taste in the world”: in a single multimedia work of art, Italian artisan skills in gelato, pastry, bread and coffee are combined with great Etruscan, Roman, Renaissance and Italian neoclassic art. “In the various layouts –the designer Gambarini from Gambarini & Muti Agency explains – the airy sculpture-like curves of a gelato are alongside the serious face of Michelangelo’s David, while a haute pâtisserie cake has a precious Etruscan gold item as its background. A cup of coffee matches the colour of the Etruscan Kylix drinking cup from Tarquinia, a chocolate sculpture is spotlighted alongside Canova’s neoclassical statue of Hebe. A basket of bread is combined with Caravaggio’s young Bacchus and the Pompeii red frescos of the Villa dei Misteri are fronted by an inviting tomato pizza.” www.sigep.it

NEW MODELS FOR ELEGANT DECORATIONS “To have an’idea, it is a good thing. But it’s even better to know how to take it forward.”

Henry Ford This year Martellato has expanded its professional polycarbonate mould line, which is now enriched with new classic and refined decorative patterns. The new products allow the pastry chefs to create elegant cake decorations, mousse and small cakes, with a touch of originality that catches the eyes and whets one’s appetite.

The shell line is suitable for the production of small pastries and chocolates. The quality of polycarbonate gives chocolate unrivaled brightness and smoothness; it also ensures easy removal of the finished product from the mould, thus reducing the risk of breaking it.

Martellato moulds reveal meticulous attention to details. The new collection reaffirms the Italian company’s impulse towards improvement, that has gained the trust of chocolate makers for over thirty years. www.martellato.com

LINE R: JUST ONE MACHINE, LOTS OF APPLICATIONS Staff Ice System has been in the market of cold equipment since 1959 and now it introduces its R Line including eight models of multifunction machine. The high quality components and great versatility make it a must-have for pastry chefs. Each machine is supplied with all the features that grant the best performances and reliability in the recipes that require temperature control during heating, cooling and mixing phases. The R Line represents a convenient innovation which is fit to keep the organoleptic properties of the ingredients, because during the pasteurization cycle the temperatures are always lower than the traditional boiling. Moreover, the perfect integration between basic electronics and the inverter enables to obtain any kind of mix – custard cream, pâte à choux, pâte à bombe, panna cotta, ganache, jellies, jams and much more…. – as made by hand. www.staff1959.com

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RECIPES

FRUIT TART WITH LAVENDER CREAM BASIC RECIPE Short crust pastry soft wheat flour W160 butter icing sugar egg yolks eggs grated orange rind grated lemon rind vanilla bean

g g g g g n n n

1,000 600 350 50 100 1 1 1

LAVENDER CREAM fresh whole milk sugar egg yolks corn starch rice starch sprigs of lavender

g g g g g n

1,000 250 120 40 40 4

Rub the butter and flour together, add the sugar, the aromas and lastly the eggs.

Store at 4°C.

Prepare as for a normal cream, but, beforehand, leave the sprigs of lavender in infusion in hot milk for approx. 5 minutes.

Assembly

Bake blind a base of shortcrust pastry, then add a layer of lavender cream, decorate with fruit (peaches, raspberries, blueberries, strawberries, red currants) and cover with gelatine as usual.

Riccardo Liccione L’Angolo del Pane, Frossasco, To photo Remo Caffaro

The fruit tart with lavender cream surrounded by compositions of flowers and fruit by the floral designers of Se from Pinerolo, To.

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COCOA TART WITH VANILLA BAVARIAN CREAM AND RED BERRIES For the cocoa shortcrust pastry plain flour whole eggs egg yolks butter sugar yeast salt zest of orange cream 35% fat cocoa powder 22%

g g g g g g g n g g

1000 220 40 450 400 2 2 1 80 100

Combine the eggs and sugar, add the butter at room temperature and whisk the mixture until smooth.

Fold in the cream, the cocoa powder, the flavouring and mix using a plastic spatula. Add the sifted flour and the yeast, then knead the mixture until smooth (but not elastic). Wrap the dough in a cling film and keep in the fridge for 35 min.

Remove it from the fridge, roll it out about half cm thick and line a greased and dusted tart-tin.

Bake at 175°C in a convenction oven or at 185°C in a conventional oven for 18 min. Then leave it to cool.

For the bavarian cream full cream milk whole eggs egg yolks vanilla pod zest of orange sugar plain flour gelatin leves cream 35% fat

g g g

1000 150 40

n g g g g

1 190 120 12 740

Heat the milk with the vanilla seeds and the grated orange zest to 80°C. In a large bowl whisk the eggs and the sugar until creamy. Add the seived flour and stir. Slowly pour the milk into the bowl, and keep on stirring to combine them thoroughly. Bring the custard to a boil and then cool down in a blast chiller at +3°C. Soak the gelatin in cold water, put it in a bowl with 40 g of water and bring it to a boil in a microwave oven. Leave it to cool until 35°C. Whip the custard using an electric mixer and fold in the dissolved gelatin.

Whip the cream until 60% and combine it with the custard, then whisk the mixture until creamy.

Assembly

When the shortcrust pastry is cool, add the bavarian cream to the pastry case and keep it in the fridge for about 1 hour. Remove it from the fridge, then cover with red berries. Using a pastry brush, sprinkle the fruit with neutral jelly and garnish as desired.

Piero Rainone www.ifse.it foto Piersimone Fantin

38

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