eatdrink Issue 39

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario № 39 • January/February 2013 www.eatdrink.ca

FREE

eatdrink Inn Season with

Avenue Dining at Idlewyld and Featuring

Valentine’s Day Recipes from London’s Rising Culinary Rock Stars

The Early Bird

A Taste of Tweet Success

Olive Oil & Balsamic Vinegar Tasting Bars ALSO: Wicked Catering | Iceculture Inc. | Exploring Walkerville | 4th Annual Craft Beer Awards

Chill in STRATFORD

with international chefs and local flavour Participate in a gastronomic journey in Stratford

this winter as you savour the best of Stratford Chefs School student creations guided by international

chefs at lunch and dinner. The Savour Stratford GE CafĂŠ Chefs Series kicks off with hands-on culinary

classes led by celebrated chef Aaron Linley in January and Top Chef Carl Heinrich in February. Bring your friends to Savour Stratford Tastings – exciting

regional pairings of beer and cheese or our smooth

favourite Scotch and Chocolate. Meet celebrity chef Lynn Crawford at CheeseFEST for a special evening of tasting and sipping on February 6.

You deserve a Savour Stratford culinary getaway this winter at one of the Inns of Stratford.

Book your winter getaway at

visitstratford.ca

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Restaurants | Chefs | Farmers & Artisans | Culinary Buzz | Recipes | Wine | Travel A Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario

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Managing Editor

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Bryan Lavery, Cecilia Buy, Jane Antoniak, Jennifer Gagel, Rick VanSickle, Darin Cook, D.R. Hammond, Sue Sutherland Wood, Christie Masse, Jill Ellis-Worthington, Kym Wolfe, Mary Ann Colihan

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Photographers

Bruce Fyfe, Steve Grimes, Andrew Dobson

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Cover Photo: Hotelier Marcel Butchey and his Avenue Dining Executive Chef Julie Glaysher, at the Idlewyld Inn, in London’s charming Wortley Village.

Photo by Steve Grimes

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Upbeat Lunches | Intimate Dinners | Dietary Needs Accommodated | Ample Free Parking

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contents

ISSUE № 39

8

8 14 26 30 50 56

january/february 2013

foo d w ri t er at l a r g e Rising Culinary Stars Take on Valentine’s Day

By BRYAN LAVERY

R E S TAU R A N T S 14 Avenue Dining and Idlewyld Inn, in London

By BRYAN LAVERY

30 Tasting Tweet Success at The Early Bird, in London

By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD

19

T R AV E L Exploring Walkerville, Windsor’s Distillery District

By JANE ANTONIAK

s p o t li g h t 26 Bayleys On Ice: Iceculture, in Hensall

By CHRISTIE MASSE

c ulin a ry re ta il 34 Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar Tasting Bars

By BRYAN LAVERY 37 Crazy about Cocoa Beans: Trends in Chocolate

By JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON

N E W & N O TA B L E 40 The BUZZ

THE BUZZ

c at erers 48 Delightful, not Devilish, at Wicked Catering

By MARY ANN COLIHAN

C U L I N A RY E D U CAT I O N 50 Chef Chris Squire Teaches the importance of Food

By KYM WOLFE

B eer m at t ers 52 The 4th Annual

By THE MALT MONK

eatdrink Craft Beer Awards

W I N E 56 My Most Memorable Wines of the Year

By RICK VanSICKLE

BOOKS 60 A Literary Look at Cocktails

By DARIN COOK

60

C O O K B O O K S 62 The Soup Sisters Cookbook, ed. Sharon Hapton 65 Best Recipes of the Maritime Provinces, ed. Baird

Reviews and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL TH E L I GHT E R S I D E 70 A Global Calendar of Holiday Food

By DARIN COOK

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

tidbits

Skating Into the Limelight

By Chris McDonell, eatdrink Publisher

L

ike all of the hockey players that I have ever skated with, I understood before I was a teenager that I’d never play in the big leagues. Funny, though, how the dream — literally and figuratively — never truly died. I think that’s why we enjoy watching the pros compete, why we care so much ... A part of us is on the ice with them.

In March, London will not only get a close up view of figure skating’s biggest stars, our city will also get to take a turn in the limelight. Hundreds of millions of people around the world will tune into the 2013 World Figure Skating Championships, and thousands will visit in person. And here’s the exciting part: they will be watching us too.

Getting to host such an event is no fluke. Our sports, political and tourism representatives lobbied hard to land this golden opportunity, and they succeeded against stiff international

competition. We’ve shown we can compete with the best in the world, and the table is set.

At eatdrink, we’ve long extolled our virtues as a culinary destination. Now we get to prove that.

So let’s all get ready to take our bows on the international stage. We’ve got the best servers, the best cooks, the most creative, welcoming and hospitable people. The world will be watching, the visitors will be dining, and we will be celebrating with all of the other winners. I can hardly wait!

And Happy New Year! May 2013 turn out to be bountiful for all of us, from the farmer who just might be able to take a couple of days off at this time of year, to the restaurateurs who have had to be incredibly creative to survive tough economic times.

Cheers!

Authentic

Culinary ExpEriEnCEs FROM FARM TO TABLE, LONDON’S CULINARY CULTURE IS COOKING WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR

WWW.LONDONTOURISM.CA/CULINARY

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

food writer at large

Rising Culinary Rock Stars and their recipe suggestions for Valentine’s Day

By Bryan Lavery

W

e at eatdrink have always been dedicated to supporting and mentoring emerging talent in the culinary and hospitality industry. Rising Culinary Stars are young, up-and-coming chefs and culinary professionals who represent the vanguard of the modern Ontario culinary scene and have a reputation for originality and creativity.

They have exceptional, compelling culinary philosophies and are committed to fostering

Chef Danjiel “Dacha” Markovic

He’s an uncompromising artist and culinary innovator. Chef Danjiel “Dacha” Markovic, an early adopter of the modern farm-to-table culinary repertoire, is not just advancing “eating and sourcing local” and “eating seasonal,” he is vigorously and ingeniously enhancing and developing a new region-specific cuisine in the tiny kitchen at Kantina on Talbot Street.

Markovic is London’s reigning culinary rock star.

By the age of seven, Markovic’s precocious skills were already developing, from cooking and working with his mother in the family kitchen in former Yugoslavia.

His father was a professional cook. A

Chef Danjiel Markovic: Kantina

a cutting-edge farm-to-table culinary repertoire by sharing their knowledge with fellow professionals. Ultimately, it’s innovation, ambition, exquisite presentation and most importantly, delicious cuisine that combine to win a chef the designation.

We have asked each of our three chefs, and this year’s “Honourable Mention” Alicia Hartley, to offer recipes for Valentine’s Day that reflect their particular style and encompass their culinary philosophy.

combined sense of necessity, economics, tradition and culture has infused his culinary instinct.

Markovic’s realm is a scratch kitchen, and all items are made in-house and by hand. The menu selections are thoughtprovoking riffs on iconic cuisines imbued with contemporary techniques and quality ingredients. Markovic’s talents so far have been underappreciated, and he is in the rarified company of a handful of chefs who show enormous potential in this part of the province.

After graduating from a culinary high school in Belgrade, Markovic entered a hotel/culinary college, where gastronomy was his main focus. He studied and worked at the same time.

After graduating from college, he was hired at the Metropolitan Grill in the Hyatt Regency (a 5-star hotel) in Belgrade as a line cook. His natural talent and abilities quickly propelled him forward.

At the young age of 25, Markovic is already a seasoned professional and culinary zeitgeist with a big future. Yet, Kantina remains one of the city’s best-kept secrets.

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

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Beet Potage with Chèvre and Smoked Egg 1 cup (250 mL) white wine 1 cup (250 mL) onion, chopped 1 cup (250 mL) carrots, chopped 4 cups (1 L) red baby beets, blanched, peeled and chopped ½ cup (125 mL) olive oil 6 cloves garlic, chopped 2 lemons, juiced 6 cups (1.5 L) stock (add more as required) ½ cup (125 mL) butter salt/pepper to taste

Garnish smoked egg chèvre basil pesto 1 In large pot, heat olive oil. Add onion and sauté until golden brown.

2 Add garlic, carrots, and salt and pepper to taste.

Continue to sauté.

3 Add white wine, reduce.

4 In same pot, add beets and stock. Cover and simmer until beets are tender.

5 Remove from heat, add butter, lemon juice, and seasoning as desired. Blend and strain. Consistency of soup should be thick (pureed vegetables).

6 Garnish with smoked egg, chevre, and basil pesto.

Smoked Egg: 1 Heat woodchips in pan until they begin to smoke generously. Place hard-boiled egg (peeled) in steamer and place on top of pan. Cover and remove from heat. Let sit for 2 hours.

Tip: If Potage is too thick, stir in more stock.

The

Pristine

live Tasting Bar

462 Cheapside Street (@ Maitland) London, Ontario 519-433-4444

www.thepristineolive.ca Specializing in real, fresh, certified, Ultra Premium Extra Virgin Olive Oils, Fused and Infused Olive Oils & Aged White and Dark Balsamic Vinegars

CERTIFIED FRESH, LABORATORY TESTED & SENSORY EVALUATED Proud to be recognized by Tom Mueller, author of Extra Virginity - www.truthinoliveoil.com in the listing of “Great Olive Oils of the World”

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

“Happy Ending” Habitual Chocolate Crème Brûlée with Coffee Ice Cream

2 ½ cups (625 mL) cream 5 egg yolks ½ cup (125 mL) 74% Peruvian chocolate, chopped 1/2 cup (125 mL) organic sugar Sugar for caramelizing Ice cream: 1 cup (250 mL) 35% cream 1 cup (250 mL) 2% milk 1 vanilla bean ½ cup (125 mL) liquid glucose

5 egg yolks 3 tablespoons (40 mL) ground coffee ¾ cup (175 mL) organic sugar Toasted almonds for garnish Ice Cream: 1 In mixer bowl, beat egg yolk and half the sugar until mixture becomes foamy.

2 Add remaining ingredients.

3 Place mixture in pot and bring to 80°C (176°F), stirring constantly. Let cool overnight.

4 Place in ice cream maker. Store in freezer up to 2 months.

Crème Brûlée: 1 Preheat oven to 160°C (325°F).

2 In pot, heat cream to 80°C (176°F).

3 In separate bowl, beat egg yolk and sugar together. Add cream and chocolate. Mix well.

4 Pour mixture in cups and place in baking tray with hot water. Water should reach ½ to ¾ up crème brûlée cup.

5 Bake for 30-45 min until mixture sets (slightly firm). Remove from oven and allow to cool.

6 Put about 1 teaspoon (5 mL) sugar on top of and caramelize sugar torch.6 Dinner Series Invite:FFC 3column_by_4inches crème 06/12/2012 9:48 AMwithPage 7 Garnish with ice cream and toasted almonds.

Fresh From the Field:

A Farmers Feed Cities Event Series Back by popular demand, the highly anticipated Farmers Feed Cities event series returns to London for the second year.

With a new year comes new resolutions. Farmers Feed Cities and Garlic’s of London are coming together to help you keep those ‘local, healthy eating’ resolutions without sacrificing farm fresh flavour. Join us for an evening of elegant cuisine as we celebrate Ontario agriculture with the farmers that supply the deliciously local seasonal ingredients.

Garlic’s of London 481 Richmond Street London, Ontario Monday, January 21, 2013 5:30 p.m. – 9 p.m.

Call Garlic’s at (519)432-4092 to reserve your table — $40 per person Cocktail to accompany dinner served courtesy of:

www.eatdrink.ca

№ 39 | January/February 2013

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Chef Joshua Fevens and Chef Chad Steward Speaking of big futures, the collaborative gastronomic vision of Chef Joshua Fevens and Chef Chad Steward is influenced by a strong commitment to advancing the economic, ecological and social values of our local culinary and agricultural communities.

Both chefs were mentored by culinary gymnast and chef/ educator Wade Fitzgerald.

Steward and Fevens breathe new energy into Garlic’s monthly menus to reflect high-quality seasonal availability and a system of farmers and producers that provide flawless patriotic Chef Joshua Fevens (left) and Chef Chad Steward: Garlic’s of London ingredients.

Stewart’s and Fevens’ menus instrumental to the restaurant’s success are a synergetic exercise. and have helped to cement their own Stewart is the creative one and Fevens culinary reputations. Stewart and Fevens is more practical. Fevens and Stewart are at the top of their game. recognize that provenance and direct Recipes on following page. farmer relationships have become

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

DelMac Farms Rack of Lamb

with Gratin Potato, Glazed Beets, Swiss Chard, and Red Wine Reduction 1–2 pounds (½ to 1 Kg) rack of lamb — trimmed, frenched, and individually removed from rack.

Marinate with fresh chopped garlic, rosemary and olive oil (this can be done 2 hours prior to cooking).

Potato Gratin: 2 lb. (1 Kg) Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, peeled 3 cups (1.5 L) whipping or heavy cream 1 teaspoon (5 mL) kosher salt 1/8 teaspoon (0.5 mL) freshly ground black pepper Generous pinch of freshly grated nutmeg 2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed ¾ cup (175 mL) finely shredded Gruyere or aged cheddar

Glazed Beets 2 pounds (1 Kg) red beets 2 tablespoons (25 mL) sugar 2 teaspoons (10 mL) red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt 1 Remove stem and bottoms of beets, rinse well and bring to boil with remaining ingredients until fork-tender. Once cooked all the way through, strain and peel while they are still warm, using a cloth or tea towel. Cut into large chunks and set aside.

2 Once ready to prepare dish, heat beets in medium-high nonstick pan with a tablespoon (15 mL) of olive oil, nub of butter, and sugar or honey, salt and pepper.

Swiss Chard 1 large bunch of fresh Swiss chard 1 small clove garlic, sliced 2 tablespoons (25 mL) olive oil 2 tablespoons (25 mL) water Pinch of dried crushed red pepper 1 teaspoon (5 mL) butter Salt

1 Heat the oven to 400°F. Using a very sharp knife

or a mandolin, carefully cut the potatoes into 1/8-inch slices (no thicker).

2 Put the potatoes into a large heavy-based saucepan and add the cream, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and garlic. Cook the mixture over medium-high heat until the cream is boiling, stirring occasionally (very gently with a rubber spatula so you don’t break up the slices).

3 When the cream boils, pour the mixture into a 2-½- or 3-quart baking dish. If you don’t want a tender but garlicky surprise mouthful, remove and discard the garlic cloves. Shake the dish a bit to let the slices settle and then sprinkle the surface with the cheese.

4 Bake in the hot oven until the top is a deep golden brown, the cream has thickened, and the potatoes are extremely tender when pierced with a knife, about 40 minutes. Don’t worry if the dish looks too liquid at this point; it will set up as it cools a bit. Before serving, let the potatoes cool until they’re very warm but not hot (at least 15 minutes), or serve them at room temperature.

1 Rinse out the Swiss chard leaves thoroughly.

Remove the toughest third of the stalk and discard or save for another recipe.

2 Heat a saucepan on a medium-heat setting, add olive oil, a few small slices of garlic and the crushed red pepper. Sauté for about one minute. Add the Swiss chard leaves. Cover.

Check after about 5 minutes. If it looks dry, add a couple tablespoons of water.

3 Flip the leaves over in the pan, so that what was on the bottom is now on the top. Cover again.

Check for doneness after another 5 minutes (remove a piece and taste it).

4 Add salt to taste, and a small amount of butter.

Remove the Swiss chard to a serving dish.

Red wine reduction Olive oil for coating the pan ¼ cup (50 mL) shallots, minced ½ cup (125 mL) red wine ½ cup (125 mL) beef stock 2 tablespoons (25 mL) butter, to taste 1 tablespoon (15 mL) rosemary, chopped, optional 1 In a sauté pan, over medium-high heat, add enough olive oil to coat the pan. Add the shallots and cook until translucent.

2 Add the red wine and stock and reduce by half.* 3 Add the butter and chopped rosemary.

Tip: If you would like a smoother sauce, you can strain the shallots out at this point then return to the pan and add the butter and rosemary.

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

Chef Alicia Hartley

Alicia Hartley is the head chef at Blu Duby.

The restaurant’s tagline is “A remarkable experience designed to accommodate every budget.” The result is a streamlined operation with a recession-friendly gourmet menu that appeals to a broad demographic.

Hartley prepares almost everything in-house from scratch. Earlier in the year, at the Onyx Supper Club, her menu combined international classics with a

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influence in her cooking repertoire to her mother, who is part Chinese. Hartley is a dedicated culinary professional on her way up.

Bryan Lavery is a well-known chef, culinary activist and writer. Mr. Lavery has spent many years in teaching, consulting, and advisory roles with various culinary businesses and initiatives.

Alicia’s Seafood Cakes Serves 8 0.75 pound (350 g) assorted seafood (use crab, salmon, haddock, shrimp & scallops) 4 eggs 1 ½ cups (375 mL) potato flakes ¼ cup (50 mL) chopped dill 2 tsp (25-30 mL) diced red onion Salt and pepper mixture to taste

Honourable Mention Chef Alicia Hartley: Blu Duby modern Hungarian twist imbued with contemporary farm-to-table ideals.

Hartley is a native of Guyana, the home of classic fusion cuisine, and although she immigrated to Canada at age thirteen, her background influences her cooking. Hartley’s culinary approach is both instinctual and thoughtful. She is a proponent of combining ingredients from various cuisines and regions with contemporary ideas. Hartley is known to ramp up the spice quotient, which she does to great effect. She credits the Asian

1 Dice seafood (set aside 3 oz salmon prior to dicing). Mix diced seafood, onion, dill, salt and pepper.

2 Blend 3ounces (90 g) of salmon and eggs in a food processor. Add the egg and salmon mousse to the diced seafood mixture.

3 Slowly stir in potato flakes until mixture can form patties. Divide mixture into 16 2oz cakes.

4 In a very hot oven-safe pan, place cakes into a 400°F oven for 1 ½ minutes. Flip and continue to cook for 2 more minutes.

Lemon and Horseradish Aioli: 1 cup (250 mL) mayonnaise 2 lemons, both juice and zest 3 tablespoons (40 mL) freshly grated horseradish Salt and pepper to taste Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly.

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restaurants

Always Inn Season at Avenue Dining and the Idlewyld Inn, in London By bryan lavery Photography by Steve Grimes

H

otelier Marcel Butchey was born and raised in London, Ontario.

His hospitality career began at a variety of private clubs throughout Ontario before transitioning into a career in the hotel industry starting with the Fairmont Royal York.

With a BA from Western University, a diploma in hospitality management from George Brown College in Toronto, MBA from Ecole Hoteliere de Lausanne, Butchey spent nearly three years in Switzerland before spending a year in the Middle East. When he decided to return “home” he had spent over a decade abroad where he developed a wide range of competencies and a high standard of excellence and innovation in his profession.

Butchey saw immense potential in the threestorey grand Victorian-style mansion, built for former London mayor Charles Hyman in 1878. The hotel, nestled in London’s quiet Old South neighbourhood was the residence of choice when Sir John A. Macdonald visited the city.

Former owners, John and Christine Kropp, put the property on the market and Butchey made an offer that was accepted in May Hotelier Marcel Butchey has owned the historic Idlewyld since May 2011.

2011. He converted five ground-floor suites into offices, dining space and conference rooms. Wireless Internet was also installed throughout most of the building, making the Idlewyld a more striking alternative for

№ 39 | January/February 2013

business and corporate events.

Workers refurbished the bathrooms in the hotel’s remaining suites. With unique furnishings, window treatments and gleaming exotic woods and other amenities the Idlewyld is a step across the threshold of a grander era. Rooms have been fitted with flat-screen televisions, the antique armoires and desks remain, maintaining the elegant ambience combined with a touch of the contemporary.

Idlewyld offers 19 guest rooms, each uniquely decorated to replicate the Inn’s idiosyncratic charm. “Each room is distinctive.

All of the rooms look completely different,” Butchey tells me. The historic Idlewyld has sustained its air of grandeur for over a century. What started out as a private residence in the Victorian era has evolved into London’s premier boutique hotel, boasting membership to organizations such as Distinguished Inns of North America and is a member of Ontario’s Finest Inns.

When Marcel Butchey became the hotelier he rebranded the Inn’s

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Marcel Butchey and his Executive Chef Julie Glaysher (above) share a commitment the Avenue Dining will provide guests with a culinary experience that is both sophisticated and passionate — true gourmet dining. Chef Glaysher guides a strong group of kitchen professionals (below).

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restaurant as Avenue Dining. The restaurant is a reflection of the casual elegance that the Idlewyld has built its reputation around. The dining room is clean, elegant and unpretentious combined with professional service and top-drawer cuisine.

Executive Chef Julie Glayshers’ passion for food translates into innovative cuisine that showcases local, seasonal and exceptional ingredients for Idlewyld’s discerning diners.

Many hoteliers fight the perception that their establishments are for the exclusivity of out-of-town guests.

Consistently named one of London’s most beautiful and unique restaurants, Avenue Dining has become one of the locals’ jealously guarded secrets — a true “hidden gem” in the heart of London’s Old South Village. Butchey and Glaysher create a culinary experience that is both sophisticated and passionate. This is true gourmet dining.

There is an abiding air of efficiency and professionalism in the roomy and comfortable dining room. One evening, the waiter, Brian, wields his crumber with deftness and precision discretely across the white linen table cloth several times during an epicurean tour de force.

A torchon of Foie Gras (a controversial but popular and accepted delicacy in French gastronomy) is decadent, subtle, buttery and rich and served with a trio of thick Duck Prosciutto slices, Cranberry Conserve, Cognac and Flat Bread is indulgent.

The plating is simple but visually stunning with a pleasing geometry.

A hands-down winning appetizer of Crab Globe and Chorizo tucked into a pungent pool of smoked Executive Chef Julie Glayshers’ passion for food translates into innovative paprika, butter and capers, cuisine that showcases local, seasonal and exceptional ingredients for packs a wallop of deep-sea Idlewyld’s discerning diners. flavour.

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Perfectly seared Pork Belly with Apple Terrine is supremely satisfying and when Chef combines it with chestnuts, maple and cinnamon it becomes a patriotic reflection of the seasonality of the menu’s offerings.

Deconstructed Lobster Ravioli with Champagne, butter, parsley and preserved lemon arrives at the table looking like some exotic sea creature made of layers of fresh house-made pasta. Thick chunks of butter poached meaty lobster elevate this dish to nirvana. Glaysher knows how to cook both seafood and fish and a seriously delicious Filet of Pickerel is served perfectly with little embellishment and an addictively crisp skin.

Beef Rib-Eye Salad with Horseradish Dressing, Peppers and Spinach is a sure fire hit at lunch. Other lunch items are equally well-prepared. The wine list is well-chosen from an exceptional wine cellar.

The beautifully manicured grounds, front verandah and elegant ambiance of the Garden Courtyard create a welcome retreat for locals and travellers alike.

Avenue serves breakfast, lunch, dinner and a Sunday brunch. There are many venue choices available for

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For three seasons, the beautifully manicured grounds, inviting front verandah and elegant ambiance of the Garden Courtyard — one of the finest spots for al fresco dining in London — create a welcome retreat for guests.

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

private dining, weddings, receptions and events.

If you are thinking of tying the knot this Valentine’s Day, The Elopement package, offered by the Idlewyld , is one of the more romantic getaways. The hotel supplies the wedding officiate, two witnesses, photography, bouquet and boutonniere, candlelight dinner for two, wedding cake for two, couples massage, wine, and a two night stay in a Jacuzzi ensuite with breakfast in bed both mornings.

Avenue Dining / Idlewyld Inn 36 Grand Avenue, London ON 519-433-2891 www.idlewyldinn.com breakfast: 7 – 10am monday – friday

8 – 11am sat, sun & holidays lunch: 11 – 3pm monday – friday

11:30 – 2pm saturday dinner: 5pm – 9pm tuesday – saturday brunch: 11-2pm on sundays afternoon tea: 2pm – 4pm saturday

Bryan Lavery is eatdrink magazine’s Writer at Large and Contributing Editor. He can be reached at blavery@eatdrink.ca

Avenue Dining is a reflection of the casual elegance that the Idlewyld has built its reputation around. The dining room is clean, elegant and unpretentious. Richly carved fireplaces abound in the inn, with gracious wood trim, embossed wallpapers, and stained glass complementing traditional furniture. The most fortunate guests are the ones who can tuck into one of the well appointed rooms for an overnight stay!

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travel

Exploring Walkerville Discover the original Distillery District, in Windsor

By Jane Antoniak | Photography by Bruce Fyfe

H

ave you heard that you can now get Canadian Club and coke together in a can? Honestly, my grandfather would roll over in his you know what. Like many Canadian families, we’ve been drinking rye and water since, well, forever. Okay, there was the rye and ginger phase. But Canadian Club and coke premixed in can?

Wonder what Hiram Walker would think? He’d probably like it if it a meant a profit!

It was just one of the things I picked up while strolling through an area of Windsor called Walkerville, on the Detroit River. It’s the original Canadian company town —

The Canadian Club Brand Heritage Centre offers informative and enjoyable tours and sample Canadian Club liquors.

The view of the of the building from the Detroit River side (above), shows off the impressive grounds.

built and owned by Hiram Walker in the late 1800s. Walkerville is a step back into the time when Al Capone hung out in the basement of the corporate headquarters and bootleggers ran whisky — Canadian Club whisky — over the frozen river into Prohibition-era USA. Hiram made oodles of

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Sample Canadian Club varieties from the Grand Heritage Centre overlooking the Detroit River dough and our whisky (even though the company was founded and owned by an American who never lived on our side of the river) has become the number-one selling rye worldwide.

FACT: Canadian Club Premium sixyear-old whisky has sales of ten million cases a year, making up 91 percent of the worldwide market share, according to Karen Smallwood, our knowledgeable tour guide at The Canadian Club Brand Heritage Centre. “This is what keeps the lights on,” she chuckles as she pours us some bronze liquid samplers. We sip and gaze out onto the pristine grounds and the Detroit River while surrounded by wood and marble in the very rooms where Capone and Walker did business. It’s something out of Mad Men crossed with Boardwalk Empire. The Americans are the biggest buyers of CC, followed by us, and then the Japanese.

Smallwood says she gets many Japanese tourists who come all the way to Windsor just to soak in the Canadian Club experience.

FACT: “Every drop is made here, bottled here and shipped worldwide, except for the US-bound rye, which has to be bottled in

№ 39 | January/February 2013

the US so we ship it to Illinois for bottling,” explains Smallwood.

FACT: The historic Heritage Centre (which is now a popular site for weddings and special events) was built for $100,000 in 1894 when a bottle of whisky was 6 cents. Basically, Hiram was loaded. And he made it all on booze, the American dream story, rising from humble grocer to whisky maker, marrying well, and buying American dollars low then selling them high. He built “The Whisky Palace” in Italian Renaissance Style, importing marble from all over the world.

FACT: You can buy an original tenement row house in Walkerville for $134,000. And it’s nice. Hiram built and owned the entire town, and “the benevolent dictator” was a stickler for quality. “It was like winning the lottery to get a job here,” says Smallwood.

While you owed your soul to the company store, you did have a decent brick house with running water, paved roads, wood delivered, and your sidewalk shovelled.

Your kids went to the Hiram-built school, and the town had police, fire and even a Hiram-built bank. His trademark red brick is impressive today as you stroll Chilver and Wynadotte streets, eyeing the homes of past Walker executives and workers alike.

The former offices of the Walkers are part of the tour of the historic Canadian Club Brand Centre

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Walkermole offers samples from a list of more than 50 tequilas. A flight of tequilas (right) is a great way to sample and enjoy the smooth flavours.

The small yet vibrant shopping area in Walkerville features historic buildings that are now restaurants, vintage clothing shops and pubs. Since we were in Windsor, we had to have wood-fired pizza, which was

Walkerville Brewery reopened this past fall and offers a tasting room and sales of its craft beers by the glass or in growlers to take home.

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Historic homes line the streets in Walkerville, the town built and owned

by Hiram Walker for his employees. delivered, along with gigantic meatballs and arancini di Riso, seafood soup and calamari, from Vito’s (www.vitospizzeria. net). “You can’t lose on a pizza here in Windsor,” says Pina Ciotoli, a bubbly ambassador of the region with her brother Adriano. Together they own and operate Windsoreats.com and offer walking tours

The Seneca Lake Wine Trail near Atwater Estate Vineyards The beautiful countryside of Essex County

№ 39 | January/February 2013

of Walkerville. When we complained of being stuffed by giant meatballs at lunch, Pina obliged by showing us the haunts of Walkerville on foot, including the Victoria Tavern. Pina and Adriano grew up in Walkerville, and their love for the area is evident. Adriano had his wedding at Willistead Manor, a 36-room mansion and former home of Hiram’s son (the only Walker to actually live in Canada). “There’s such a sense of depth to this area, I just love it,” says Pina proudly.

Meanwhile, Chris Ryan of Walkerville Brewery (www.walkervillebrewery.com) has made something old new again. Ryan, a former beer rep, has revitalized an old Walker business with the relaunch this past fall of the brewery. They are making and selling on-site a lager and a pilsner, plus some seasonal beers. He hopes to bring on an IPA, unfiltered beer and a summer brew in 2013. Housed in a 1928 former Walker warehouse, the brewery has a tasting room and it’s fun to bring home a growler.

(Growlers are half-gallon glass bottles that resemble moonshine jugs.)

If you’re still thirsty after a day of rye and beer, you can head over to Walkermole for some tequila and Mexican cuisine. Operated by the enthusiastic Brandon Bedard, it is here that you can order from a list of more than 50 tequilas, including a taste of Clase Azul Extra Anejo for $195 a shot. But this is for sipping, not shooting. A flight of tequila is a great way

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Your love of all things Italian begins at

Windsor is famous for wood fired oven pizza and Walkerville has its own at Vito’s Pizzeria. Also highly recommended: Vito’s gigantic meatballs and arancini di Riso. to sample and enjoy the smooth flavours alongside some queso fundido and flavourful soups, steak and fish tacos.

After a boozy day in Walkerville, rather than drive home, it’s ideal to stroll over to Ye Old Walkerville B&B, where Joyce and Larry Duffield provide bedrooms with private baths, lots of stories about their days working for Canadian foreign services, and an impressive breakfast including Essex county apple cider and a smoked salmon/bagel strata.

Walkerville is an easy two-hour drive from London and a fun getaway. On the way home, you may want to venture off the 401 and onto the EPIC wine trail (Essex Pelee Island Coast, www.epicwineries. com), where new and visually attractive wineries such as Coopers Hawk and Oxley Estate are enthusiastically greeting visitors with new tasting rooms and dining options.

But that will be another story!

Jane Antoniak is a food travel writer for eatdrink who enjoys pairing food, drinks and history. She operates Saucy: Meats & So Much More, as well as a communications company in London.

Bruce Fyfe is a regular contributing photographer to eatdrink who likes to take a break from his day job as assistant librarian at Weldon, Western University, to embark upon culinary adventures.

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spotlight

Bayleys on Ice Engineering the Ice Industry at Iceculture in Hensall

By Christie Massé

T

he Bayley family of Hensall, Ontario, has brought the family business a long way since its inception eight years ago. Now recognized internationally as one of the leading companies in ice sculpture innovation, Iceculture Inc. is providing divine ice creations for events across the globe, landing Hensall on the industry map. The company has created a trifecta of professionalism: science and engineering, business management and customer service, and fine art and design collide, streamlining the overall strength of their services.

A truly unique business, Iceculture offers much more than just sculptures.

With décor pieces such as ice bars, drink displays, beaded curtains, chandeliers, vases, candles, glasses, and menus, to name a few, events acquire a new and memorable level of distinctiveness and extravagance.

Needless to say, weddings, food shows, and corporate events are big business for this company. They also work closely alongside

chefs to design and offer pieces that are now incorporated into food presentation and buffet displays. Julian Bayley explains, “If there is a trend, we have made a determined effort to become an integral part of food presentation.” Where the sculpture used to be a freestanding add-on if the budget allowed, it is now a vessel for highlighting food and drink, making presentation more luxurious than ever.

Winners of many awards, the Iceculture staff have earned their accolades, as they’ve stayed on the cutting edge with innovating and upgrading, from production design to delivery. Not only have their technical innovations made their pieces a desired commodity, but also the science and technology behind those pieces have become sought-after by others in the industry, making Iceculture an international forerunner in their field.

With a well-rounded view of industry needs, they know it is not just about the piece, it is about the process, including the logistics

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Iceculture creates both incredible ice sculptures, such as a twelvefoot streetcar, below, as well as spectacular ice bars. From Hensall, just north of London, they have shipped ice lounges to New Delhi and Calcutta, India, and are working on an ice lounge/ restaurant in Saudi Arabia!

of delivery and setup. Julian explains the challenge the company faces at times with this aspect, after having recently built an ice castle for Walt Disney in Times Square, NYC. “The challenges were huge — a seven-hour window to build the castle and a very tight space to work in were two major hurdles. We then had to remove the castle just six hours later to fit in with the Disney marketing scheme.” A feat found difficult enough with standard construction materials, let alone with a medium that melts!

Sculptures and event décor are just the tip of the iceberg for Iceculture these days. Julian explains that the company has just completed two ice lounges in India (in New Delhi and Calcutta), and is currently working on an ice lounge/restaurant in Saudi Arabia and one in Boston. Even with this international market drawing their business, the Bayley family continues to loyally satisfy their home market of Southwestern Ontario with all their custom ice sculpture and construction visions and desires. The company website, well worth browsing, provides numerous photographs of their breathtaking work. If you are looking for something to heighten the level of creativity and luxury at your next event, take advantage of this local gem and consider your ice options.

Iceculture Inc. 81 Brock Street, Hensall, ON 519-262-3500 www.iceculture.com CHRISTIE MASSÉ is a Stratford Chefs School graduate and a local professional pastry chef. For inquiry or consultation call 519-494-1061.

Stratford is more than great theatre.

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Stratford is more than great theatre.

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restaurants

Enjoying a Taste of Tweet Success at The Early Bird diner, in London

By Sue Sutherland Wood

I

stainless steel, and the clean, simple booth seating capacity is only about 35, lending a Chicago, hole-inthe-wall feeling. Even the four Elvises who preside over diners are self-assured in their customized Kiss makeup — they’re funky and they know it.

The musical references are no surprise, given that co-owners Chef Justin Wolfe and business-savvy brother Gregg are also musicians and continue to maintain a passion for the industry. Justin’s band

Photo courtesy Andrew Dobson www.dobbernationloves.com

f you haven’t already noticed The Early Bird restaurant and its adjoining sister, The Nite Owl Upscale Rock Lounge, tucked tidily into Talbot Street near King, you’ve probably heard about them.

Especially since the diner’s local popularity recently inspired a visit from “You Gotta Eat Here!” of Food Network.

Once you step inside, The Early Bird’s décor is a visual mash-up of thoughtful homage, linking “Mad Men” references to urban-cool bands like The Hold Steady — no random array of vintage Coke bottles and James Dean here. A block of vinyl records mounted on the wall meets

The musically inspired Early Bird interior features four Elvises in Kiss makeup — they’re funky and they know it

№ 39 | January/February 2013

toured extensively and successfully worldwide, and as a result of that he experienced many food influences that he determined to put his own spin on one day.

“It’s true that you really appreciate a good breakfast when you’re on the road away from home,” Justin laughs. “I wanted to recreate that comfort-food feel with a kind of big-city, speak-easy feeling. I knew a diner could work well with the bar angle, too.”

This has proved to be an understatement. Although Justin and Gregg launched The Nite Owl just under three years ago, they only opened the adjoining Early Bird ten months ago, when the space presented itself.

Already there is a renovation in progress, which will open up more of the diner into the front of the bar. (A trial patio seating in the summer essentially doubled their capacity). In the meantime, food stats are impressive: 1,000 perogies every week, 500 bacon-wrapped dill pickles, a myriad of meats prepped including brisket, pork shoulder and duck, many of which will be treated to a high-maintenance combo of curing, brining, smoking, grinding, or being made into sausage — all in-house. The Early Bird’s own smoked meat takes days to prepare from start to finish, but is extremely popular and every bit as succulent as its Montreal counterparts.

Dips — including the BBQ sauce — are also homemade.

Popular dishes include the awe-inspiringly huge TurduckKen sandwich, Poutine Perogies nestled in swooningly dark gravy, and an architectural feat called the Pancake Stacker, which alternates strata of bacon and potato hash and

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The Early Bird recently welcomed the Food Network crew from “You Gotta Eat Here” to their diner. Above, Early Bird co-owner Justin Wolfe shares a laugh in the kitchen with the TV show’s host John Catucci. Below, the entire crew raises a glass in appreciation for their visit.

An air date is not scheduled yet as we go to press, but look for the episode in a few months’ time. wears a crown of fried egg. Tender braised pieces of duck are served as sliders, and a variety of homemade soups are available to add heft. No wonder there are often lineups outside the door, and interestingly, Justin

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Bacon Fried Pickles

The Pulled Pork Sandwich: spice rubbed and smoked pork shoulder tossed in housemade BBQ sauce, topped with coleslaw on a grilled kaiser. Served with roasted potatoes and a garden salad

№ 39 | January/February 2013

proudly points out that The Bird has a growing fan base with London’s seniors.

Rave reviews poured in to the Food Network, nominating the Early Bird as one to watch, and social media networks Twitter and Facebook have been full of praise for the restaurant since it opened —“The Bird is the word!” being a common shoutout.

The Food Network team from the hit series “You Gotta Eat Here” recently came to town with host John Catucci for a two-day filming and a mission to find London’s outstanding comfort food.

On day one, Catucci — who is highly likable, charming and funny — comes directly into the Early Bird kitchen and gets stuck in. He seems

The Cheesus Crust Pizza: mozzarella, cheddar, feta and thyme

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Photos this page courtesy Andrew Dobson www.dobbernationloves.com

He also notes that people are, on the whole, much more discriminating now — they don’t want to eat greasy, reheated food, and they know the difference.

The Early Bird is offering quality, local ingredients, king-sized portions, and a particularly distinct menu for extremely reasonable prices. If Facebook is anything to go by, the film shoot was a huge success, and there’s a definite zip of excitement.

John shrugs. “When you wake up smell­ ing bacon, it’s hopeful. It’s gonna be a good day. A great day even. Maybe some people feel like that if they wake up to boiling kale, but really? I don’t think so.”

The Early Bird 355 Talbot St., London 519-439-6483 www.facebook.com/EarlyBirdLondon

Roasted Beet and Arugula Salad: Ovenroasted beets and fresh strawberry, tossed with local arugula, crisp pancetta, chevre cheese and house vinaigrette

hours of operation (subject to change) monday: 11am-3pm tuesday & wednesday: 11am-midnight thursday: 11am-2am friday and saturday: 11am – 3am sunday: 11am-9pm

genuinely curious about how everything comes together, repeating what he is told Sue Sutherland Wood is a freelance writer who also to be sure he understands, and twining works in the London Public Library system. She lives in London with bacon around more than a few dill pickles her teenage sons and a floating population of dogs and cats.Read more of Sue’s work at www.womenspost.ca till he’s mastered the technique. (He’s cheerful with it though, and despite the early hour, he’s prone to bursts of random, falsetto scatting in between takes!) From the pickles, he progresses to massaging a turkey breast, and it’s clear he’s up for any culinary challenge. It’s equally clear that he has seen a lot of food in this quest across Canada, but he has only good things to say about The Early Bird.

“First of all, it’s the honesty Justin and Gregg bring,” Catucci explains between takes. “It shines through and it’s real. You can taste the difference with this kind of care, and people appreciate that. Customers are made to feel like family.

Plus, Justin’s bringing the ‘cool factor’ to London.”

The TurduckKen Style Club: Smoked turkey, panko fried chicken, duck bacon, hot house tomato, mixed greens and maple syrup

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culinary retail

Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar Tasting Bars By bryan lavery

W

ithout question, the best olive oil is extra virgin. It is actually juice pressed from tree-ripened olives, with no additives. The elementary procedure for making olive oil has remained the same for thousands of years: harvest the olives at precisely the right time, crush them into paste, separate the solids from the liquid, and further separate the vegetable water from oil. The method of extraction has a distinct effect on the flavour and ultimate quality of olive oil.

Authentic balsamicos are rich, glossy, and deep brown in colour, and they possess a complex flavour profile that combines the natural sweet and sour elements of the cooked grapes. There are also hints of flavour from the wood of a battery of successive barrels of smaller sizes. I have tasted the sweet traditional elixir balsamico on trips to the attics of Modena. Traditional balsamico is aged a minimum of 25 years.

Olive oil and balsamic vinegar tasting bars are a relatively new phenomenon in North America, and a growing trend for discriminating foodies. Unlike typical shops where you purchase a bottle of olive oil from the shelf, olive oil tasting bars offer a more personalized and inter-active experience. Customers at tasting bars get a complimentary taste test of their product first, and can even blend different flavours to create customized flavour-infused oils and artisan-made balsamic vinegars.

Typically, the tasting room is lined with dozens of 25-litre fustis — special stainlesssteel jars with spigots to store olive oil and balsamics — with stacks of tasting cups beside each tank. Learning how to taste olive oil will deepen your appreciation for great olive oils. The concept is basically the same as wine tasting. While holding the cup in one hand, you use your other hand to cover the cup while swirling the oil to release its aroma and warm it up, then you stick your nose in the cup and breathe in, to smell the oil.

The goal of a tasting bar is to educate clients on oils and vinegars and help cultivate their palate. Tasting bars offer olive oils and balsamic vinegars in dozens of flavours, from Meyer lemon, bacon, and white truffle to wild mushroom-sage.

Once you’ve made your decision, the bottles are filled from the fusti, corked and sealed.

London now has two olive oil and balsamic vinegar tasting bars and Stratford one.

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Pristine Olive Tasting Bar

Olive Your Favourites

New to Stratford, Michelle Hern’s Olive Your Favourites is a speciality shop offering unique and exceptional quality extra virgin olive oils from around the world.

Here you will also find balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy. There’s even mango, dark espresso and dark chocolate, and like London’s Pristine Olive, Veronica Foods is the sole supplier.

Sample and taste the 21 York Street, Stratford 519-508-1757 www.oliveyourfavourites.com

The

Pristine

live Tasting Bar

462 Cheapside Street, London 519 433 4444 www.thepristineolive.com

many varieties they offer, and make a note of your favourites, then bottle and seal your choices on-site.

Photo by Jamie Drummond

Pristine Olive Tasting Bar is located at the corner of Cheapside and Maitland streets, in the premises that once housed Sullivan’s Meat Market. There’s plenty of room for two olive oil bars in town, says owner Jamie Griffiths, who enjoys walking first-timers through a thorough tasting process.

Pristine’s supplier, Veronica Foods, is credited with opening the first stand-alone olive oil and balsamic tasting bar of its kind in North America in 2006. Now supplying over 300 stores, fifteen located in Canada, their fresh extra virgin olive oils, fused and infused olive oils, traditional balsamic vinegars, and naturally flavoured balsamic vinegars are all certified for their ultra-premium quality.

Griffiths’ beautifully appointed shop offers more than 40 different olive oils and balsamic vinegars.

Griffiths is also selling salts, spices, rubs and jams.

The goal at The Pristine Olive is to help educate each customer by allowing them to experience what highquality olive oil should taste like. The Pristine Olive Tasting Bar specializes in real, fresh, certified, ultra-premium extra virgin olive oils. You will always find the unique chemistry and harvest/crush date posted on each of their extra virgin olive oils.

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Olive-Me & Co.

Olive Me & Co. is independently owned and operated by Missy Haggarty, who left a career in human resources to open her tasting bar. The attractive shop is located in a small plaza at the corner of Hyde Park and Gainsborough roads.

570 Hyde Park Road, London At night the large flashing olive sign has become 519-471-OLIV a welcoming beacon. Haggarty loves the village www.olivemeco.com feel of Hyde Park. She loves London because it has an interesting food culture, and she talks about the local entrepreneurial spirit of people like Deb Mackey from Pepper Tree Spice and Paul Spence from Lo Maximo Meats.

Haggarty, who lived in Europe from age 15 to 25, then moved to London from Bancroft six years ago, is a lifelong aficionado of the olive.

Before opening her shop, she spent two years travelling and doing intensive market research and product development.

Her business plan includes sourcing her products privately from small-batch producers in Italy and Greece, as well as from other European countries and the United States.

Instrumental to the project, Haggarty had an Italian-Canadian master craftsmen design and handcraft special racks to make the tasting bar as authentic as possible. from around the world. A salad lover, Haggarty offers unique extra virgin olive she is excited by the wide array of flavours oils, balsamic vinegars, spices, and beauty in the oils and vinegars designed to splash products derived from extra virgin olive oils up your cooking and baking.

Bryan Lavery is eatdrink magazine’s Writer at Large and Contributing Editor. He can be reached at blavery@eatdrink.ca

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culinary retail

Crazy about Cocoa Beans The hallowed cocoa bean is trending big these days

By Jill Ellis-worthington

T

erroir has long been the province of wine; then coffee lovers hopped on the bandwagon. The latest commodity to relate the nuances of origin with taste and quality is chocolate.

“Terroir is a tremendous factor,” says Dave Cook of Habitual Chocolate Roast­ ers. “Chocolate is a deeper commodity; it’s a big world of cocoa, and it tastes different depending on where it comes from. There are amazing choco­ lates from all over the world.”

He visits vari­ ous cocoa-pro­ ducing coun­ tries several times each year to research the best beans to sell at his shop in the Western Fair Market.

Habitual car­ ries 15 different types of beans from countries like Madagas­ car, Ghana and other exotic ports, and makes four different kinds of chocolate with each, providing a varied and deli­ cious selection selection for customers.

Peruvian beans are Cook’s current favourite. “I’m a chocophile,” he says, laughing. “I love to visit the countries and try everything at least once. If I enjoy it, we bring it home.”

Habitual sells only fair trade organic chocolate from beans they roast on-site.

The ground beans are combined with

sugar, salt, and cocoa butter or powered milk to form their popular chocolate bars.

The market stall also sells novelty bars that combine their own chocolate with dried and fresh fruit. Cook adds that he’s working with local chefs on original combos all the time.

One trend Cook is following now is com­ bining his freshly made chocolate with local seasonal products, like North Shore Erie wine. “It’s made into a reduction and combined with the choco­ late to make a truffle, so when you bite into it you get a burst of fresh Ontario wine.”

Of course, using local ingredients is a huge trend right now in the food world, and along with that goes the push for sustainability.

According to Kristine Steed of Rheo Thompson in Stratford, sustainability has become a focus for those in the cocoa industry now, as well. “Most of the major confectioners are going to be involved in this (promoting sustainable growing practices),” she explains, adding that this was an important topic at a recent international conference she attended.

Groups like The World Cocoa Foundation are working with farmers in cocoa-growing

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countries, especially along the Ivory Coast of Africa, where 70 percent of the world’s supply comes from. These farms are usually one-person or family-run operations. They get help with eco-friendly farming practices to minimize disease and maximize crop production. Steed says it’s a win-win situation because producers gain a better quality of life and the buyers gain a better quality of product.

№ 39 | January/February 2013

While Steed maintains that Rheo Thompson sticks to its core products, like the beloved mint smoothies, she says that dried fruit, like oranges, raisins and apricots, dipped in bittersweet chocolate are seasonal favourites in the winter.

At Harbourtown Fudge in Port Stanley, Vicci and Jon Coughlin are cooking up some of the most inventive batches of fudge around. For example, their Parrot

The Road to BLISS London Chocolaterie Bernard Callebaut 745 Waterloo St. www.bernardcallebaut.com 519- 663-9973

St. Marys The Chocolate Factory 130 King St. www.thechocolatefactory.ca 519-663-5787

The Chocolate Factory Covent Garden Market www.thechocolatefactory.ca 519-284-3572

Port Stanley Harbourtown Fudge 205 Main Street www.telegraphhouse.com 519-782-3006

Forrat’s Chocolates Covent Garden Market www.forratschocolates.ca 519-455-2285 Forrat’s Chocolates & Lounge 1304 Commissioners Rd W, Unit 3, www.forratschocolates.ca 519-204-7904 Habitual Chocolate Roasters Western Fair Farmers’ Market www.habitualchocolate.com 519-639-4963 Purdy’s Chocolates White Oaks Mall www.purdys.com 519-681-3278

Goderich Cravings 166 Courthouse Square 519-524-7986 Exeter Sugar & Spice www.sugarandspicechocolates.ca 395 Main St. 519-235-1211 Factory, Exeter, 519-235-1283 Strathroy Sugar & Spice www.sugarandspicechocolates.ca 626 Victoria St. 519-245-9638

Windells Chocolates www.windellschocolates.com 226-236-1980 Stratford Chocolate Barr’s Candies 136 Ontario Street www.chocolatebarrs.com 519-272-2828 Rheo Thompson Candies 55 Albert Street www.rheothompson.com 519-271-6910 Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory 10 Downie Street www.rockymountainchocolate­factory.com 519-272-2807

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cocoa-based drinks to appease their gods, current trends should ensure that there’s always a steady supply of these tasty beans to enjoy in new and different ways.

JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON is a freelance writer and chief communicator for Write.On Communication Services International (www.writedoton.com).

Bay Fudge combines Parrot Bay Rum with coconut and dark chocolate, Cappuccino Cream Fudge is made with Las Chicas del Café Espresso, Whisky Fudge uses a popular Ontario-produced whisky as the key ingredient, and Candied Garlic is a key ingredient in the Vanilla Cream Fudge.

This is the latest effort from the duo who made their local culinary reputation cooking up amazing breakfast dishes and homemade pies at Billy’s Deli, and advanced that reputation serving the area’s best perch and eggs benedict at their B&B, Telegraph House.

“Port (Stanley) didn’t have a candy shop, so we figured a saltwater taffy and fudge shop would do really well,” says Vicci.

Keeping it simple until he masters the art of chocolate, “Jon is having fun with handdipped chocolate,” she says. “It’s a creative venture for Jon. He likes to experiment, like making Cabernet chocolate fudge.”

Though chocolate has been around since the ancient Mayans and Aztecs offered

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Girls Night Out Valentine Soiree

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

The BUZZ ... new and notable

A

rtisanal food is locally-sourced, hand-crafted and produced in small batches and, more than likely, in a traditional manner. It’s anything from cheeses, preserves, honey, olive oil, maple syrup, cider, charcuterie and more. There continues to been a lot of talk about the artisanal food renaissance — think small-batch baking, home-made condiments or bean-to-bar chocolate. In the same manner, now hand-crafted bread is getting its well-deserved renaissance.

There’s a new game in town. Well, sort of... Theo and Gerda Korthof have opened a second bakery on Dundas Street at Ontario across from their location at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market. The Artisan Bakery (formerly Flair Bakery) features a full complement of European-style pastries and artisanal breads like: caramelized sour-walnut and raisin and roasted grain sourdough, Klondyke sour potato bread and San Francisco black olive and herb. The bakery will also offer a selection of homemade pates and duck and pork tourtieres. 864 Dundas St; 519-204-9144; artisanbakery@rogers.com From Lindsay Todd Reid’s bake kitchen in the cellar of his Sebringville home, Lindsay handcrafts small-batch scrumptiousness. Lindsay’s Bakery sets up shop on

Saturdays at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market and Sundays at the Slow Food Market in Stratford.

Alan Mailloux has over 25 years of bread-making experience. Mailloux features from-scratch, hand-shaped, artisanal and specialty breads made with time and care. Visit the Downie Street Bakehouse in Stratford, Western Fair and Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market on Saturdays, or the Slow Food Market in Stratford on Sundays. And for the true bread lover, there’s a Bread Club Membership — $200 buys a five dollar loaf of bread per week for fifty straight weeks. 388 Downie Street, Stratford.

Baking is a calling for Christain Burdan, who is a seventh-generation baker, tracing his family’s craftsmanship back to 1762. Burdan has tantalized tastebuds in both his native Germany and in France before immigrating to Canada.

Burdan’s breads, rolls and speciality baked items such as pretzels from the Red Cat Farm are available from their mobile stall at the Masonville Farmers’ Market in season and outdoors at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market for the rest of the year.

Organic Works Bakery is a stylish bakery and cafe located in the heart of SoHo at 222 Wellington Street, south of Horton.

Owner Peter Cuddy looked far and wide and discovered he

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couldn’t find bakers who created this way, so an idea was born.

Specializing in recipes made with organic, gluten-free, nut-free and vegan ingredients that tantalize the palate.

If you are looking for bread reminiscent of your last European vacation, then Penelope Holt’s LOAF is one of the finest places for you to purchase bread during the outdoor market season. Holt uses wholesome local ingredients, organic when possible, and has a strong loyal following for her classic “levain.” Covent Garden Farmers Market Local culinary maven Keri Patterson tells eatdrink that Sweet Lemon Bakery offers strictly vegan (free from eggs, dairy and animal bi-products) and gluten-free desserts made from scratch using top quality ingredients and without refined sugars. The bakery offers delicious creations ranging from “cheeze” cake, cupcakes, whoopy-pies and selection of raw desserts at its new storefront location at 82 York Street.

Marvin Rivas continues to fete patrons at his year-old Latin American-inspired Che Restobar on Dundas Street at Clarence. This chic hot-spot features exposed brick walls, a granite bar, and massive light fixtures, proffering authentic Latin American fare prepared by Chef German Nunes, a native of Peru. The tuna ceviche continues to be one of the most outstanding appetizers in the city. The Yucca poutine is to die for. Main courses include a delectable chimichurri ribeye steak. www.cherestobar.ca Luis Rivas opened the popular True Taco in Old East Village after perfecting his business model and building a loyal clientele at the Western Fair Farmers’ Market. True Taco offers miniature gastro fiestas with a menu of family-style recipes. Specialties include hand-made tacos prepared with a choice of chorizo, pastor, beef barbacoa, or beef tongue, and a selection of spicy homemade sauces. The spectacular all-day breakfast of huevos rancheros, El Salvadorian pupusas, crafted by the sublime Elsa Garca, and Chicken Milanese are all knock-outs. The Guacamole alone is worth the trip to True Taco. Rivas is currently building bigger premises across the street from his existing restaurant and anticipates opening is mid-February. www.truetaco.com Saucy: Meats & So Much More, a new shop featuring locally-produced and sourced food, has found a home at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market. Saucy is owned and operated by Jane Antoniak, eatdrink magazine’s roving culinary journalist and social media editor.

Saucy: Meats & So Much More offers a variety of meat from local producers such as Metzger’s Meats from Hensall, The Whole Pig in Dashwood, and fresh Ontario lamb from DelMac Farms and Lena’s Lamb in Lambton County. The saucy moniker comes from the array of sauces and other products produced by The Garlic Box, Steed and Co. Lavender, Hot Mamas and Stonewall Kitchens. Antoniak says Saucy allows local chefs and customers access to artisanal meats and distinctive specialty products without having to drive out into the country. “We are representing unique, artisanal brand and producers and we should support them.” www.facebook.com/Saucy:Meats&SoMuchMore

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Congratulations to Chef Dave Lamers and Rob D’Amico from Abruzzi, who were able to contribute $3155.47 to London Health Science Centre benefiting prostate cancer research by donating a portion of their November sales. www.abruzzi.ca Garlic’s of London presents the Farmers Feed Cities event “Fresh from the Field” on Monday January 21. Join chefs Joshua Fevens and Chad Stewart for an evening of elegant cuisine as they celebrate Ontario agriculture with the farmers that supply the deliciously local ingredients.

Fresh from the Field runs from 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tickets are $40 per person. www.garlicsoflondon.com A hidden gem is tucked inauspiciously in a row of buildings between Burwell and Maitland on Dundas Street. T.G’s Addis Ababa will be celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. Inside, close your eyes and savour the exquisite aromas emanating from the nearby tables and the kitchen. The menu offers outstanding examples of perfectly prepared Ethiopian cuisine.

Vegetarians and culinary purists flock here. T.G. and Sam are hospitality personified. T.G. is also a well-known caterer. Takeout is available. www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com When it comes to technology trends, just over one-quarter (27 per cent) of chefs polled ranked tablet computers, such as iPads, as the predicted hottest technology trend in restaurants in 2013. London’s new 168 Sushi, at 660 Oxford St. West, an early adopter of iPad tablet ordering systems, is engaged in its early preview days as we go to print. There are long line-ups for the service at 168 Sushi, and the restaurant takes mainstream, conveyor-belt style sushi and fast food to a new level. The ambience and decor is by far the most contemporary, hands down, out of any AYCE (all-you-caneat) sushi place around. 168sushibuffet.com/london In October, news was that APK Live was closing due to ongoing repair issues at their Wellington Street location and would be seeking a new home. Elaine Knight, APK’s owner, has found that new location at 347 Clarence St., and will be open throughout January as changes are being made to Brennan’s Beer and Bistro, including the creation of a bigger stage, painting to match “APK” space, rotating art, bands booked, upgraded sound equipment ,etc. The Grand re-opening of The APK will happen on Friday, February 1. www.apklive.com The Early Bird, Justin and Gregg Wolfes’ downtown London red-hot, retro diner, has added an additional 28 seats to the premises. (read the profile of The Early Bird in this issue.) The Night Owl has been turned into a cozy little bourbon bar. www.facebook.com/EarlyBirdLondon Mas Cafe is bringing more traditional Latin-American food to downtown London. Gabriel Sepulvelda, a native of Chile, opened the smart cafe in mid-December at 192 Dundas Street. Mas (meaning more) Cafe specializes in empanadas,

№ 39 | January/February 2013

a savoury treat stuffed with a variety of fillings, churros and delicious fried-dough pastry and other specialty desserts.

519-601-0192 Michaels On The Thames, with its impeccably reliable oldworld service, remains London’s “celebration destination.”

Earlier in the year, owner Brian Stewart welcomed Michael Hearse as the new General Manager. Hearse is an experienced food and beverage manager and, in addition to applying his skill and knowledge as a restaurateur, is focused on creating new great dining experiences for patrons of this well established gem. www.michaelsonthethames.com The Raja exudes elegance and a level of luxury befitting its name. Building on their excellent reputation made with the thriving Raja in Stratford. Proprietor Zahirul Chowdry has welcomed Chef Nurul Islam, The Raja’s original chef, back into the fold. Chef Islam has over 35 years of experience working with Indian cuisine, including time in the United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, Stratford and Montreal. www.rajafinedining.ca

Happy New Year from all of us at Edesia Fine Foods!

We look forward to growing with you as we continue to offer only the finest and freshest products.

Thank you for your support!

The London and St. Thomas Association of Realtors is lending a helping hand to youth making a fresh start.

The association donated $27,000 to Youth Opportunities Unlimited. The money will be used to purchase muchneeded kitchen equipment and expand YOU’s kitchen and food preparation area. The kitchen is used to prepare meals for the YOU Made It Cafe and for 30 youths who live in accommodations upstairs as well as a major contract with the Meals on Wheels program. www.you.on.ca After 30 years on the other side of the tracks, Under the Volcano moved uptown to the “hot” Richmond Row where it became an anchor. “This little restaurant seems to outgrow existing quarters every now and then.” Now it seems owners Dagmar Wendt and Ruben Vega are taking over the old Cityview Restaurant at Wharncliffe and Riverside. Stay tuned. www.underthevolcano.co Recently we spoke with Laura Campeau, the Brand Ambassador for The Silversmith Brewing Co, the new small batch craft brewery whose beer is popping up all over town. Silversmith is in the process of renovating an old church in Virgil, just outside of Niagara-on-the-Lake.

They are brewing beer “the hard way,” with an attention to tradition, quality ingredients, passion, and honest hard work. Their beer is unpasteurized and unfiltered and contains no additives or preservatives, for a most genuine full bodied flavour. www.silversmithbrewing.com Josh and Jody Stall and their staff at Upfront at the Market are gearing up to host the attendees of Skate Canada. Figure skating fans from around the world will be coming to London in March for the 2013 ISU World Figure Skating Championships. The best figure skaters in the

Fish and Seafood Specialists Quality Game and Fowl Full Range of Dry Goods Large Selection of Cheeses Asian Specialty Products Extensive Array of 100 Mile Products Over 1,000 Regularly Stocked Items

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

Your love of all things Italian begins at

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Valentine’sr Day! Fe bruary 14

world, from over 50 different countries, will participate in the event from March 10 to 17 at the Budweiser Gardens, as they compete for the title of World Champion. For the local community and the culinary community in particular, who will be an important part of the festivities, it will be the first sporting event held in downtown London to be televised around the world to millions.

Other downtown restaurateurs like Miljan Karac of Kantina, Joe Duby of Blu Duby and Long Phan of Tamarine are looking at innovative ways to leverage their proximity to Skate Canada and send visitors home from London to tell their friends about the amazing experience they had. What better, more cost-effective marketing can we get than word of mouth?

Noteworthy Wines is a new London-based wine agency that launched in March 2012. The agency’s mandate is to introduce reasonably priced, award-winning, unique wines to wine enthusiasts and hospitality venues throughout Southwestern Ontario. Bill Wittur, vice-president of sales and marketing, said Noteworthy looks for well-managed small-to-medium-sized vineyards that haven’t been discovered by large distributors. Noteworthy Wines also offers consulting services, to help customers choose the right wine for their events, and organizes wine tastings.

Noteworthy Wines is excited about their new “$5+$5”

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed Ethiopian cuisine ...”

— Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine

Vegetarian Options • Takeout • Catering

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

referral program. When you refer people and they buy a case of wine from Noteworthy Wines, you AND the referral get $5 off your next purchase. No limits apply, so you could well get free wine. Referrals must be unique. See www. noteworthywines.ca/5plus5 for details and conditions.

Soup’s On is an annual local soup-making contest that has been taking place for 17 years as a fundraiser for the Alzheimer Society of Perth County. Sample your way through a plethora of tasty soups! Awards for Best Hearty Soup, Best Vegetarian Soup, People’s Choice and more. Get there early, as soups tend to disappear quickly! January 12, 2013 www.alzheimerperthcounty.com The Savour Stratford Perth County GE Café Chefs Series kicks off on January 13. Join Chef Aaron Linley from Bijou Restaurant as he celebrates our local terroir and demonstrates the how-to’s, then passes off the apron to the attendees for a hands-on cooking class. These 3-hour classes will be locally focused with a unique twist based on the celebrated chef that is teaching that class. Enjoy the dishes you create and a wine/beer pairing and take home the recipes!

On February 10, develop your culinary skills and learn to translate those skills into your own home kitchen. Join Chef Carl Heinrich from Richmond Station, Top Chef Season Two winner and Stratford Chefs School graduate, along with Chef Ryan Donovan from West Side Beef Co., as they delve into the exciting side of protein — meat!

Both classes take place at the Local Community Food Centre, 612 Erie St., Stratford. $65 pp. www.visitstratford. ca/chefsseries

food nutrition at the beautiful Victorian B & B, Grandville Manor, 157 Church St., Stratford. Tastings and take-home item included. $30 pp www.visitstratford.ca/tastings The 2nd Annual “All You Can Eat” Spaghetti Dinner, with food prepared by the youth at The Screaming Avocado Café under the guidance of Chef Paul Finkelstein, is on January 21. There will also be a jazz band and silent auction, with proceeds going to Perth/Huron United Way. www.perthhuron.unitedway.ca

“... an intimate neighbourhood restaurant with an imported Italian wood-burning oven exploring new tastes and classic Italian favourites ...”

Stratford’s Winterfest features a gastronomic 3-course dinner at The Parlour teamed with a night of humour and entertainment on January 19. This is the perfect solution to the winter blues! Call 519- 271-2772 for reservations. www. theparlour.ca Savour Stratford Tasting — A New Year Cleanse, takes place on January 19. Sara Bradford, a Registered Holistic Nutritionist, leads a hands-on class focusing on whole

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1700 Hyde Park Road, London 1 block North of Gainsborough 519-641-7777

www.porcino.ca

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

The Savour Stratford Tasting series continues at The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop, 118 Ontario St., Stratford. Enjoy a Belgian Beer and Cheese Tasting on January 26, 3 pm - 5 pm. The history of beer and cheese making enjoys a long history in Belgium and as a result, some of the best beer and cheese in the world comes from this area. Come and savour extraordinary pairings.

On February 23, enjoy Canadian Artisan Beer and Cheese.

Take off to the Great White North to discover some of the best new selections in beer and cheese by Canadian artisans. This is a great way to spend a patriotic winter afternoon. Each tasting event is $30/A plus HST. www.themilkywhey.ca

ALWAYS a 3-course prix fixe menu option

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At The Parlour, 101 Wellington St., Stratford, enjoy a selection of unique small plates to share every Friday night during January and February from 5pm-8pm. There is something different every week, so don’t miss out. www.theparlour.ca The popular Bijou Winter Cooking & Wine Classes with Chef Aaron Linley and Sommelier Bronwyn Linley are back, so reserve early. For overnight package options, visit Birmingham Manor B&B at www.birminghammanor. com. January and February at Bijou, 105 Erie St., Stratford, 2 pm - 6 pm. $120/Per person. www.bijourestaurant.com New this year are Saturday lunches and dinners, part of the Stratford Chefs School’s new culinary repertoire that are open to everyone. Dinners are served in the garden room of The Prune, 151 Albert St., Tuesday through Saturday. Lunches are served most Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays starting at 11:30 am, now at Rene’s Bistro, 20 Wellington St., in downtown Stratford, and offer a BYOB option for a small corkage fee. A new Passport holder plan offers unique privileges to travel along several culinary adventures, all of which will enrich your understanding and enjoyment of the learning odyssey that the students undertake. Passport adventures can include the following based on one of four levels: Season Opener, Patron Reception, Gastro Book Club, Chefs Table, Bubbly Gastro Chat, Dinner with a Culinary Star, and Gastro Cooking Classes. For event details and menus visit www. stratfordchef.com or call 519- 271-1414.

Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market has a NEW indoor location, The Local Community Food Centre, 612 Erie Street, Stratford. Shop from producers practicing good, clean and fair principles at this wonderful new facility. 10 am - 2 pm www.slowfoodperthcounty.ca Every Thursday night at Mercer Hall, it’s Champagne and Oysters! Satisfy your oyster craving with $2 oysters and enjoy a lovely sparkling wine by the glass or bottle. www. mercerhall.com

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MICHAEL’S ON THE THAMES Continental cuisine – with a 519-672-0111 contemporary twist! – and Tableside Cooking. Baby Grand Pianist 6 Nights a Week From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees, Plenty of Free Parking Michael’s makes your celebration an event. www.michaelsonthethames.com

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

Love local food and great music? Join the crew at Molly Blooms Stratford on a Thursday or Saturday for great specials and live entertainment including: Bill Craig, Mob Barley and Dan Stacey. Thursdays Molly Blooms features their famous All Day Steak Special. 26 Brunswick St., Stratford. www.mollybloomsstratford.com Stratford Farmers’ Market is a year round market operating since 1855. Fresh produce, crafts, meat and cheese.

Stratford Rotary Complex-Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd., Stratford. 7 am - 12 pm. www.stratfordfairgrounds.com

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We tweet and retweet, post to our Facebook page, and print all the news we can. Let’s get better connected!

Foster’s Inn offers a wide selection of Winter Enticers — $5 daily breakfasts, Sammy & Side lunches for $9.99, weekday Lounge Lover 5 Appetizers @ $5 each, after 5pm and dinner specials, Sunday through Thursday, with a different dinner special each evening. www.fostersinn.com The popular winter bistro dinner menu is back at Keystone Alley Café, 34 Brunswick St., Stratford. Enjoy two courses for $24.95 or three courses for $31.95. www.keystonealley.com Enjoy heartburn? Of course, but only on February 2, at the 26th annual Orr Insurance Heartburn Day. Restaurants and business battle it out in this annual Chili Cook-Off, a fundraiser for the Heart and Stroke Foundation.

Stratford Rotary Complex, 353 McCarthy Rd., Stratford. rsmith@hsf.on.ca Canada Dairy XPO (CDX) — Canada’s National Dairy Showcase & Cheesefest — is the first national showcase dedicated exclusively to the dairy sector. On February 6, the public is invited to attend CheeseFEST, an evening networking social featuring a complimentary massive cheese buffet. Meet celebrity Chef Lynn Crawford and enjoy live entertainment along with regional micro brews and wineries. Stratford Rotary Complex, 353 McCarthy Rd., Stratford, 4 pm - 7 pm . www.dairyxpo.ca

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

caterers

It’s Delightful, not Devilish at Wicked Catering, in London

By Mary Ann Colihan

T

he Braywick Bistro and Wine Bar, at 244 Dundas Street across from the Central Library, picked a cheeky name for their on-site catering business: Wicked — as in wickedly good food.

Barry and Anissa Foley bought the Braywick and Wicked in November 2011 and are changing up everything. Career entrepreneurs, they previously owned Foley Farms & Carolinian Winery, a demand­ ing operation that gave them experience with hightouch customer service. “We make the customer feel like they have a relationship with us,” say Anissa Foley. “Our brides tell us we are the first to call back.

And we hear that our menus help with any specialneeds requests because we make everything fresh and can customize plates.”

Chef Ian McGill, a graduate of the esteemed Stratford Chefs School, designed Wicked’s catering menu for all occasions — from weddings and elaborate holiday parties to more intimate dinners at home. They will also use their customers’ favourite wines to pair with a custom tapas snack menu. “With Wicked, we are trying to bring the restaurant and new menus out to more people through catering,” he says. “Braywick is like a hidden gem downtown.”

McGill likes to create fresher variations of French and Italian classics. His homemade pizzas and pastas will be prominent on Wicked’s catering menu because of their simplicity to cook. Foley says

‘Wicked’ Good Celeriac Purée Celeriac is a nonstarchy, knobby variety of celery harvested for its roots. Wicked Chef McGill’s recipe is very versatile as a side dish. He tops the purée with seared scallops for lunch and grilled chicken or beef for a hearty winter dinner.

1 whole celeriac (celery root), peeled and cubed 1 cup (250 mL) 35% cream (10% can be used) 1 tbsp (15 mL) kosher salt 1 tbsp (15 mL) white pepper 1 Boil celeriac until tender in salted water. Strain and reserve one cup of water from cooking.

2 Blend cooked celeriac with cream, salt and pepper. Use extra cooking liquid to let out (thin) the purée. Plate as a side under your favourite fish or meat.

www.eatdrink.ca

№ 39 | January/February 2013

Chef Ian McGill (immediate left) and proprietors Anissa and Barry Foley (seated below in the Braywick Bistro) and a variety of Wicked samples.

his oysters and curried mussels are also a hot commodity.

A big fan of area farmers, McGill says their catering options will offer more seasonal and fresh local products. “In winter, that means more root vegetables, charcuterie plates and cheese platters, and our rack of lamb may become a lamb shepherd’s pie at a less expensive price point.”

He says Wicked’s strength is their personable and well-trained waitstaff. “We do drop-and-go appetizers for parties, but also offer entire sit-down meals where the host can really relax and enjoy the service,” says McGill.

Having grown up on a pork farm, he believes in using the whole pig and learned healthy cooking skills from his mother, a dietician. “I love terrines and pâtés, and trying new flavour combinations,” says McGill. He is also a big fan of preserving, pickling and canning, and jars of his craft are available for sale.

All in all, it sounds like a wickedly fine recipe for success!

Wicked Catering 519-645-1188 The Braywick Bistro & Wine Bar 244 Dundas Street, London 519-645-6524 www.braywickbistro.ca Mary Ann Colihan writes about the environment and sustainable food systems. She co-authored a book on farmers’ markets and is at work on a book about the Kingsmill’s Department Store.

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culinary education

Teaching the Importance of Food Chef Chris Squire leads new generations into the kitchen

By Kym Wolfe

“P

assion is the secret ingredient in any great food,” says Chris Squire. And it’s a given that passion is also the secret ingredient in any great teacher.

Spend some time chatting with Squire and you realize he is equally passionate about good food and teaching others about it, particularly young people.

Squire is a highly respected chef, caterer, and culinary educator who has been part of the London restaurant scene for more than four decades. He’s taught culinary skills for more than twenty years, principally at Sir George Ross Secondary School, teaching his students not just cooking skills but also educating them about healthy food and nutrition and the ill effects of a poor diet on both mental and physical health.

While the classes that Squire teaches are focused on chef

training, as the head of the culinary program he also oversees the butchers, the bakers and the daily lunch makers — and Sir George Ross is the only high school in the province with the facilities to teach that broad range of skills, hands on, says Squire. “We have a full butcher shop. Local farmers will bring in whole cows and sheep, and we will butcher and wrap the meat.

We also have a full commercial bakery, and we make everything from scratch, from breads to desserts.”

Part of Squire’s intention is to replicate the experience that students would have in a real commercial kitchen, so students in the program come in at 8 a.m. every school day and have to have a multiple food item menu, all made from scratch, ready to serve to all students in the school during lunch periods, which begin at 11 a.m. daily. Before Christmas, the culinary students prepared a turkey dinner for 200. The students also prepare food regularly for a number of church groups that provide free meals for individuals and families in need. The program charges for the cost of food, but not for the labour.

Outside of the classroom, when he’s not catering or hosting culinary vacations at Villa Al Boschiglia in Tuscany, Squire teaches cooking classes at two local kitchen shops — Kiss the Cook and Jill’s Table.

He also delivers individualized cooking lessons in people’s homes, and during the summer he can be found in the kitchen at Red Tail Golf Course in Port Stanley, where he is head chef in what he describes as “a little jewel of a restaurant.”

Squire’s love affair with food goes back to his high school years, when he first started working in the restaurant industry. Back then, he thought of cooking as his meal ticket to get through university, graduate studies, and eventually teachers’ college. But when he graduated and found there was a surplus of teachers, his plans for a career in education were put on the back burner. He went back to cooking, and spent twenty years at Auberge du Petit Prince before closing the restaurant in 1997 (The name was revived by new owners a few years ago). Throughout those years, he took on a teaching role working with apprentices in the restaurant. “It’s important to mentor the generation that is coming behind us,” he says.

Chef Chris Squire brings his passion for good food into all he does.

№ 39 | January/February 2013

It was an invitation from fellow foodie, baker Rob Chick, that got Squire involved in teaching in the culinary program at Ross. “As soon as I saw the students, it was a transformative experience. I found it so compelling,” says Squire. “Here were kids who had had such little academic success because they are visual and kinetic learners. Suddenly they were in a school working with their hands, and they found something they excelled at. Ross is a very special place to teach — the spotlight rarely shines on these kids, but it should.”

“These are students who have a variety of challenges in their lives,” says Squire.

“It’s important for them to find work that is self-sustaining. When they leave, they are ready to go into the job market as a line cook or other entry-level work in the hospitality industry. There is no shortage of jobs in service professions, and never has been.”

At the time this went to print, Squire was concerned about the future of the culinary program at Sir George Ross, as it was one of the schools targeted for closure

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by administrators at the Thames Valley District School Board. “Ross is almost a boutique school,” he says. “I don’t think it’s possible to create this very special environment in a larger context.”

He notes that there is a movement to introduce culinary classes in other schools across the city, and for the most part he thinks that’s a wonderful idea. “Clearly there is an awareness that culinary is a growth area in public education. Cooking is part of our communal patrimony — it’s knowledge that everyone should share,” he says.

“The thing I notice when I do cooking classes outside of Ross is that there is a whole generation who doesn’t know how to cook. Young women in their twenties don’t have the skills and knowledge that they would have learned in the old Home Economics classes. Food is a central part of everyday life — how can it not be important?”

Kym Wolfe is freelance writer based in London.

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Beer matters beer matters

A Forward and Rearward Glance The 4th Annual eatdrink Craft Beer Awards

By The Malt Monk

J

anuary is so aptly named after the Roman deity Janus, god of new beginnings and transitions.

He’s usually depicted with two faces — one looking forward, one looking back. The month of January is thus a Gregorian acknowledgement of the fact that at the change of the year, it is human nature to reflect on the past year while looking at the future.

In keeping with this ideal, the annual craft beer awards column reviews the highlights of the local craft beer culture and industry in the past year, and also

looks at trends that will shape the future of the local artisanal brewing community.

So much is happening so quickly in the local craft beer market, and so many praiseworthy brews and venues are emerging, that it has become difficult to assign merit and achievement awards to a limited few beers or brewers.

So here (in no particular order) are the beers that stood out in this market in 2012, that merit praise and recommendation as being fine examples of both style and the brewer’s art:

Highly Recommended Garrison Spruce Beer — A wonderful revival of a longneglected traditional Canadian favorite from Halifax’s premier craft brewer. Absolutely mind-blowing flavour amalgamation.

Cameron’s RyePA (Rye Pale Ale) — A wellcrafted West Coast-style pale with the spicy dryness of rye complimenting the citrusy bite of Cascade hops. A well-deserving award winner.

Mikkeller Fresler Triple Bock — A big, rich, fat, black chocolate and fig Bockbier from Copenhagen Brewing artisan Mikkeller. Originally, monks brewed Bockbier for a strong and filling beer during Lent

fasting. Don’t drink this beer instead of a meal, though, as it contains 11% alcohol (but you’d never know it).

Flying Monkeys’ Effinguud, Lil’ Red and Big Red — Three of the wonderful brews FMB created for the London Tap takeover — a rich double milk stout, an American Red Ale, and an Imperial Red Ale. We can only hope they release them again as draft or bottle offerings this year.

Cameron’s Deviator Doppelbock — Another fine offering from this Oakville brewer. This dark rich Doppelbock is as good as any German samples I’ve tasted — probably better because it’s local and always fresher.

Home-made Food • The Area’s ONLY Hand-pulled Cask-conditioned Ale Friendly Staff • Charming Heritage Building • 5 miles north of London A REAL English Country Pub Just Minutes from the City!

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Garrison Winter Warmer — A warming spiced winter ale in the best tradition of the style. What I considered to be the star of the Garrison special release by the LCBO. Beau’s Night Marzen — On tap only once in 2011, this great, all-organic, unfiltered, hoppy Oktoberfest Marzen was released in bottled form to wider distribution in 2012. Good move, Beau’s.

Brooklyn Monster — Garrett Oliver’s astounding triple-mash bad-boy barley wine has rich complexity and is ready to drink with four months aging on it, but will gracefully cellar another few years.

Weihanstephaner Vitas (a wheat Hellerbock) — First release in Canada, I fell in love with this wonderful golden wheat bock. Rich with notes of honeydew and wheat cakes, yet dry and champagne-like.

Sawdust City Ol’ Woody Altbier — Perfect balance is the forte of this Dusseldorf-styled Alt. This murky copper-brown lagered ale has a perfect balance of toasty maltiness, walnut back tones and noble hop bite. Clean, flavourful and sessionable.

Nickel Brook Oak Aged Bolshevik Bastard — This Russian Imperial Stout aged in bourbon barrels saw limited release last year. Satiny mouth feel, complexity and richness. Their regular tank-aged Bolshevik Bastard is pretty good too, especially on tap.

Schneider Tap X, Mein Nelson Sauvin — An experimental bottle-fermented weizenbock dosed with the vinaceous Nelson Sauvin hop made this the star of the 2012 imports. Lightly spritzy and champagne-like in character, with a demure exotic fruitiness accented with notes of white grape skin and a dry biscuity finish.

Samuel Adams Alpine Spring Lager — Another quality import from a well-established stateside craft brewer gave the region its first Zwickelbier (an unfiltered more effervescent form of Kellerbier) — hazy pale gold with a massive puffy white cap, sturdy malt backbone and wonderful Tettnanger hop bite — refreshing to the max!

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Black Creek Dray Horse Ale — An unfiltered brown ale done colonial-style by a historical crafter. It may seem to pale in comparison to all the innovative new brews on the craft market, but its simple dignity, quality brewing, quaffable flavour, and adhesion to the authentic pioneer style colonial ales made this one stand out for me.

Creemore Springs 25th Anniversary Collaboration Altbier — Collaboration between Creemore’s brewmaster and Dusseldorf’s Premier Altbier brewer (Zum Schlüssel) produced this remarkable copper-red ale for local consumption. I hope they brew it again in 2013.

Niagara Oast House Brewey Saison — New kids on the block with lots of skill and experience have made their first offering — a world-class, spicy, cidery Wallonian farmhouse ale reminiscent of La Chouffe.

Silversmith Black Lager — Another Niagara start-up brewer comes out of the gate with a sessionable Schwarzbier (Thüringer black beer). Boilerplate dark lager exactingly made in the Franconian tradition with New-World flair.

Great Lakes Brewing Ezra (cider barrel saison), and Milktits (Imperial milk stout) — Two of the excellent one-off cask ales served at the GLB London tap invasion at Milos’s Craft Beer Emporium. We can only hope they go to production with one or both of these this year.

Church Key Brewing Holy Cow Chocolate Milk Stout — I like milk stout, and this is one of the best. It has the added dimension of an all-natural rich creamy demeanor and a roast cocoa flavour. Unlike the big US flavored stouts, this one hasn’t any in-your-face synthetic tastes, just ample natural satisfying flavour.

Nogne Porter — From the famed Norwegian Crafter Nogne LCBO release — This is porter on steroids. Deep black, bittersweet chocolate, roast coffee, rich dark fruits, soft dry finish. Complex, huge and very approachable.

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Bellwoods Monogamy (Summit) — Another artisanclass brew from the region’s newest gastro-brew pub.

This Pacific NW-styled American pale ale is a single-hop ale that showcases the Summit hop. Palate is dry and refreshing. Aroma is complex, fruity, and pungent. A worldclass craft brew from a talented brewer.

Great Lakes Brewing Karma Citra Single Hop Ale — Another great single-hop Pacific NW APA, this time featuring the Citra hop — big, bright, floral,

Exciting Trends & Innovations

One-off cask-conditioned specialty brews: brewers are installing small (under 10 barrel) pilot brew sets to produce limited release one-offs that are barrel-aged in cider, port/sherry, cognac and bourbon barrels. Flying Monkeys will be into this in a big way.

Style trends — single hop APAs, rye ale, big Pacific NW IPAs, milk stouts, saisons and farmhouse ales. Wet-hop and single-hop ales made with locally grown specialty hops are a major trend. Sourcing brewing grains and hops locally instead of importing is now common.

I have to say that 2012 saw an explosion of styles and innovative brews hit the

New Craft Brewers

It’s also been a phenomenal year for new craft brewers coming onstream. Some noteworthy crafted beer breweries and brewing companies to keep an eye on include: Silversmith Brewing Company (www.silversmithbrewing.com) — One of two new Niagara-on-the-Lake craft brew ops. Silversmith has an excellent Schwarzbier and Weizen as its initial flagship brews. There are rumours they have a great oyster stout in the tanks right now.

Niagara Oast House Brewing (www. oasthousebrewers.ca) — just down the road from Silversmith, this new brewery has plenty of talent and its first offerings (a aaison and a Bière de Garde) are world-class.

Sawdust City Brewey (sawdustcitybeer. blogspot.ca) A leading-edge craft brewer still building his brewery in Bracebridge, but producing fine ales out of Black Oak brewery.

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citrusy hop bite with rich body, ample malt presence, and a dry finish. Another example of how local brewers are outshining the styles they emulate.

Orkney Old Skull Splitter — From Scotland comes the filtered version of one of the world’s highly rated barley wines, and for good reason — shimmering red, vinous, warming, complex — smooth as satin to the palate, rich in tawny sherry-like character, dry in the finish, dangerously too easy to drink.

craft market. The LCBO shone in its seasonal and special releases, but most of the world-class craft beers of note were made by local brewers. Our local market saw a big push to emulate, and upstage, the West Coast American crafters in the pale ale, double IPA, and Cascadian ale (black IPA) genres. Local crafters also seemed motivated to explore and innovate European saisons and farmhouse ales.

We saw the appearance of the first locally made Berliner Weiss, Imperial Milk stouts, Wallonian farmhouse ales, cider-barreled saisons, and whiskey barrel strong ales and stouts. It has been a great year for brewer innovations.

Bellwoods (www.bellwoodsbrewery.com) — A new gastro-brewhouse in old Toronto that is winning universal praise with its well-hopped, all-natural, unfiltered Belgian, pale ales and specialty ales. Watch for tap handles to show up in your local pub — an indication the publican knows good beer.

Spearhead Brewing (www. spearheadbeer.com) They have their boundary-pushing Hawaiian Pale in bottles at the LCBO now and a new spiced brown ale (Moroccan Brown) on tap.

Cheshire Valley Brewing (www.cheshirevalleybrewing.com) — They continue to expand their line of authentic English-style ales — great sessioning ales for Brit pub-hounds.

Black Creek Historic Brewery (www. blackcreekbrewery.ca) — Producers of colonial pioneer-style stouts, porters, and specialty ales. Now contract-brewing their flagship beers, which are available at the LCBO.

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Local Craft Beer Venues & Events

Local events last year indicate London’s craft beer culture is coming of age — Forest City Craft Beer Fest at APK Live was a great success and introduced local crafters to the public. Ontario Craft Beer Week, celebrated by local craft beer venues, was larger than ever this year. The list of craft beer exhibitors at the London Wine and Food Show keeps growing. Casks are more common at local pubs. Late summer saw the appearance of London’s first fully dedicated venue to showcase local brewing artisans — Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium. The Great Lakes Tap Invasion at Milos’ (formerly Gigs) was THE craft beer tasting event of the year, and brought praise from even the savvy Toronto bierophiles.

The Future Looks Bright

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A British Pub.

Be Warm. Be Welcome. Be at Home.

• 17 Drafts on Tap • Over 30 Single Malt Scotches • Gift Certificates • Traditional British Comfort Food The

Coates of Arms Restaurant & Pub

There’s talk of a new government 580 Talbot Street, London breaking the province’s alcohol retail/ (at Albert) control monopoly, which could see the artisan brewing industry flourish at a www.coatesofarms.ca faster pace. Federal tax incentives for 519-432-1001 small start-up brewers are creating a diversity of local brewers and bringing crafted beer to many localities that haven’t seen fresh locally brewed beer Malt Monk’s Tap Handle Pick available since EP Taylor consolidated Railway City Brewing Honey Elixir — the corporate brewing industry in the This local (St. Thomas) brewer has scored ’50s. Freer export big points with laws across me on this brew. provincial borders This is crazy fresh have local and with a bright, trans-provincial floral, citrusy and crafters tapping pleasantly bitter new domestic taste, decent markets and balance with the expanding their rich pale malts, and operations. a clean, drying, Another trend bitter finish. that will impact Drinkable APAs and broaden don’t get much other industries better than this. Try is crafters using one when you see it locally grown on tap.

Government regulations forced Railway City to grains and hops. change their playful label, above, in case one believed Hop and brewing it offered true healing powers! grain farming is taking off in a big way. The future looks The Malt Monk is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a so bright that craft brewers and drinkers passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to join in gotta wear shades. the dialogue at http://maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com/

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wine

My Most Memorable Wines of the Year

By Rick VanSickle

W

ine has the power to transform both time and place, and to etch a memory that will last forever.

But how many times have you found your­ self at your nearest wine shop trying to remember that wine you had just a week ago. Oh, the memory is vivid of who you were with, where you were, what you had to eat, but you can’t quite put your finger on the name of that great wine you enjoyed so much.

That’s because wine is a catalyst, a prop in our lives that shares the good times and the bad, but it isn’t necessarily the centerpiece of an event.

Bodegas Castano Hecula Old Vines Monastrell 2009, Yecla ($12, LCBO) — As a wine writer and reviewer, I receive at my door all manner of wine samples from around the world at all price points.

I taste each with an open mind (regardless of cost) and rate them how I taste them. In general terms, you get what you pay for.

But when I opened up this beauty from Spain’s Yecla region, my jaw dropped.

What a gorgeous wine with a bold nose of raspberry, violets, light spice and a touch of blueberry. It’s rich and complex on the palate with bountiful fruit

Chances are the greatest wine you ever tried is memorable because of the great time you had while you were drinking it, whether with a loved one or friends, or during a magical moment on some tropical island, or in celebration of one of life’s many milestones.

Memorable wines don’t have to be the most expensive. In fact, the ones I will never forget have little to do with cost and everything to do with time and place.

This past year I tried many that cost in excess of $300 a bottle. They were good — some great, in fact — but for various reasons, not necessarily the most memorable.

So, here we go — my most memorable wines of 2012, in no particular order.

and subtle spices. And then I noticed the price: $12. Now that’s memorable!

Domaine Barmès Buecher Hengst Riesling 2008 ($25, if you can find it in Canada) — After three solid days of tasting the best wines of Burgundy during a press trip to that region, a small group of us broke away from our handlers to take in a highly geeky tasting of biodynamic/organic wines in a small space in the centre of Beaune. The Domaine Barmès Buecher table from Alsace, France, caught my eye and I found myself entranced by this Grand Cru Riesling from

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

a small family producer. The wines were poured by the lovely Sophie Barmès, who spoke passionately about her family’s farm, which has roots back to the 17th century. And it showed in the wines — such personality and flavour — and this one is now forever etched in my memory bank.

Kistler Sonoma Mountain Les Noisetiers Chardonnay 2007 ($70, Vintages) — Les Noisetiers is the epitome of the buttery style of Chardonnay. This California producer has always been a favourite of mine, and I will dig deep to buy it whenever I see it. It shows a cacophony of fruit on the nose, from apple, pear and melon to secondary notes of bread dough, minerals, and almonds, all slathered in buttery goodness. It’s simply gorgeous in the mouth with ripe fruits that work so well with fine oak, spice, nuts, and flavours that

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are layered and sublime. It is made even more memorable with a fresh hunk of wild Pacific Coho salmon grilled on a cedar plank on the BBQ. Château Beychevelle 1989 and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1989 — I purchased these two top Bordeaux wines from a guy who was just trying to get rid of his cellared wines when an illness meant he had to stop drinking alcohol. It was my lucky day. This is one of the most sought-after vintages in Bordeaux, and these are two of the most collectible wines from that region. I brought both to a dinner party that was catered by Niagara’s most famous chef, Stephen Treadwell. I can still taste these bold red blends with the braised Cumbrae’s beef short ribs with truffle potato purée and farmer David Irish’s late summer vegetables.

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Louis Jadot Bâtard-Montrachet 1982 — I was treated to a tasting of the finest wines of Burgundy at a spectacular display of Grand Crus at the historic Château du Clos de Vougeot in Côte de Nuits last March. The castle, built in 1551, is surrounded by the 50.6-hectare Clos de Vougeot vineyard.

But the most memorable wine of the evening was the Louis Jadot BâtardMontrachet 1982 (yes, 1982!), paired with a regional cheese plate. The Chardonnay oozed minerality and buckwheat honey, lanoline, slate, charred wood, warm apple, and candied citrus notes. A truly hedonistic wineand-food pairing. ($45, Vintages in the new year) — Thomas Bachelder is a master Chardonnay and Pinot Noir maker and is now making wines from Niagara, Burgundy and Oregon under his own name. His 2010s are just making it to wine shelves now, but from a summer tasting at his home in Niagara, this is the wine that I will forever remember. I’ve never given a Niagara Chardonnay a higher score. Wow! A stunner. It is a big, showy Chard that makes a statement from the first sniff. Poached pear, fresh-baked apple pie, waves of flint and stony minerality, and then the creamy vanilla spices, toffee and elegant oak, which are integrated rather than over-powering, chime in. It is weighty on the palate with bold fruit matching rich and toasty spices and balanced out by racy acidity. It’s a powerful and stylish Chardonnay with hedonistic flavours that all lead to a gloriously long finish.

Anthony Road Art Series Riesling 2010 ($24, Finger Lakes, New York) — Sometimes I am in a tasting room in a region I’m not all that familiar with, and when the wine crosses my lips it makes me do a double take. This is one of those wines. The Finger Lakes region is quickly becoming known for exceptionally well-made Rieslings, and this one is from one of the best producers in the region. It is wild-fermented and shows honeysuckle, beeswax, citrus and apple notes on the nose.

It’s complex and layered on the palate, with

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a range of citrus and apple fruit to go with white pepper, and rousing minerality in a structured, almost viscous style through a long finish.

Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Estate Blanc de Blanc ‘Carte Blanche’ 2007 ($45, Vintages) — Niagara is just now catching on to the beauty of vintage-dated sparkling wines. This first effort from Henry of Pelham, a blanc de blanc (100% Chardonnay), has been aged for 60 months after partial barrel fermentation.

The tête de cuvée was made to celebrate the winery’s 25th anniversary of winemaking.

Paul Speck said the family wanted to do something special with its sparkling program and decided on a vintage-dated, traditionally made style of wine that would highlight the Chardonnay fruit from its estate Short Hills Vineyard.

“We are looking for a bigger style in this wine,” he said. “We pick them a little riper. We’re really excited about the wine. It was such a long wait.”

In a lot of ways, the first vintage-dated sparkling wine from Henry of Pelham reflects the warmth of the 2007 season, even though the Chardonnay grapes for sparkling wines are picked much earlier in the season to preserve freshness and acidity. The nose shows warm bread, toasty brioche, complex citrus, stone fruit and lemon curd. The mousse is soft and luscious on the palate, with baked apple, lemon-citrus and creamy quince fruits to go with pastry, toasted hazelnuts and enough juicy acidity to carry the flavours through a long finish. This is a fleshy sparkler, to be sure, but it’s what you want from a wine that’s already five years old.

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Rick VanSickle is the publisher of www.WinesInNiagara.com.

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books

It’s Always Happy Hour Here A Literary Look at Cocktails Review by Darin Cook

W

ith the biggest night of alcohol consumption, New Year’s Eve, now behind us, some of us may be vowing to abstain from our favourite drinks and just read about alcohol for a while before going on the next bender. In which case, these books may help.

Christine Sismondo, a Canadian writer with a bartending past, gives us an intellec­ tual look at mixed drinks in Mondo Cocktail: A Shaken and Stirred History (McArthur & Company, 2005). Sismondo outlines her preferred recipes for twelve well-known cocktails, veering off onto entertaining tangents while doing so. Many tales feature Ernest Hemingway, who was around for the invention of several cocktails. She admits it was difficult to write a single chapter without referencing the iconic American writer. He was in Paris when the Bloody Mary arrived on the bar scene, and in Havana giving rise to the daiquiri. He has been credited with first using the Red Eye (tomato juice, beer, and a raw egg) to cure hangovers.

No cocktail is her favourite — she seems to love them all equally. But martinis do hold a special place in the lineage of alcohol beverages, as they are “the universal symbol of all other cocktails. It is the cocktail to which all other cocktails aspire.”

A martini was the first drink made in the White House by Roosevelt after repealing Prohibition in 1933. Sismondo is a purist about martinis and advocates shaking (not stirring), very hard for a very long time — “It may hurt you, but you can’t hurt it.”

The writing team of Jordan Kaye and Marshall Altier also speak highly of the martini: “Never out of fashion, never out

of place, the martini earns every bit of its legendary status as the ultimate cocktail.” These two authors have combined their efforts in How to Booze: Exquisite Cocktails and Unsound Advice (Harpers, 2010). They describe how alcohol influences our behaviour, good and bad, like loosening up social events and drowning our sorrows after a breakup.

According to these booze enthusiasts, there is always the right drink for the right time.

They write: “The constellation of drinks is boundless and, like the greeting card aisle at the pharmacy, provides options for every situation imaginable. Some are sickly sweet, others just plain off, and a rare few are just right.”

Like a dysfunctional self-help book, they claim to perfectly match exotically-named drinks to any occasion: a Whiskey Sour when you realize your ex-girlfriend is engaged to someone else; a Rusty Nail when attending a high school reunion; a Hot Toddy for days calling in sick to work. They may take it too far in the self-help department by suggesting that on your deathbed, “you spend your last few earthbound moments stirring up a good drink, settling into your favourite chair, and enjoying one last indulgence” with a Rob Roy, simply because “it is as worthy a drink as any to sign off with.” These authors also make reference to Hemingway’s contributions to the field of drinking, including a cocktail called Death in the Afternoon — leave it to Papa to create a drink using only an overabundance of absinthe and a splash of champagne. In the end, the authors admit that “the right drink for right now isn’t necessarily this cocktail or that cocktail.

The right drink is always, always, always whatever you bloody-well feel like drinking.”

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If you prefer a little globe-trotting adventure with your booze, there is no better companion than Zane Lamprey, known as the Indiana Jones of alcohol consumption. His book, Three Sheets: Drinking Made Easy (Villard Books, 2010), is not only packed with trivia about global drinks from Champagne in France to sake in Japan, but also cocktail recipes, drinking games, and hangover remedies. In a fifteen-country pub crawl, his plea to readers is to learn from his book and go out and enjoy the libations that we’ve read up on.

Three Sheets is a concise, uncomplicated, and informative book that reveals all kinds of trivia about alcohol, such as why Guinness is creamier than other beers and why it tastes better in Ireland than anywhere else in the world (the ambiance of all those charming pubs probably has something to do with it). He shares with us his research from the smooth flavours of aged Appleton rum in Jamaica to a concoction made with cobra’s blood and 116-proof Taiwanese booze in Taipei. Zamprey’s lone North American stop is Las Vegas, not for a genuine signature drink, but for all of them, since they’re complimentary in this city of gustatory plenty. But even Vegas can’t compete with the volume of different alcohols around the world: the Quaich Bar in Scotland serves 659 different Scotch whiskies, and Belgium produces more than 1,000 different beers.

And then there is a book called Drink: A Cultural History of Alcohol (Gotham Books, 2008)

by Iain Gately, an encyclopediasized tome of 500 pages that digs deep into history to show cultural drinking habits throughout time. Indeed, Gately would have us believe there isn’t a time period that hasn’t been influenced by or had an influence on alcohol. His references cover all stages of history: the ancient Greek customs of offering wine to deities; the slave trade in the Caribbean islands contributing to the manufacture of rum; the rise of California wineries that was spurred on by the influx of new money from the Gold Rush in the 1850s; the use of bathtubs for making home brew during Prohibition.

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The Italian influence goes back to ancient Rome, when “wine formed part of the rations of Roman legionaries, and a secure and increasing supply was necessary to support the efforts of ever larger and more active armies.” Thus the rise of the Italian vineyards. Alcohol rations were also common in World War I and often issued before and after combat.

During the gin craze in 18th Century England, the legal system got involved by taxing liquor sales and licensing taverns, to help reel in the wayward drunkenness of its citizens.

The most well-known beer from China, Tsing Tao, began being brewed during Chairman Mao’s reign. After the failure of his Commu­ nist revolution, Tsing Tao was exported to the United States to help China’s economy.

Gately leads us right up to the 1990s, when it was revealed on an episode of 60 Minutes that the French have healthier hearts than Americans because they drink more red wine. It was a shocking boon to the industry and the revelation that moderate drinking leads to better coronary health caused American sales of red wine to increase by nearly 50% within a month of the show.

Teetotallers should refrain from picking up these books to the same extent they abstain from alcohol. For anyone who does imbibe on occasion, there is plenty to learn, historically and practically, about your favourite drink. As Lamprey writes: “The more we understand about how a specific alcohol is made, the more we can appreciate it. Let’s face it, vodka isn’t ‘delicious.’ But learning about the distillation process, the ingredients, and the history, makes it more palatable — even to the point where it’s enjoyable.” And if you do find yourself putting those New Year’s hangovers in the past, it is even more enjoyable to flip through the pages of these books with a drink in the fist.

Darin Cook works and plays in Chatham-Kent and regularly contributes to eatdrink.

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cookbooks

The Soup Sisters Cookbook 100 Simple Recipes to Warm Hearts ... One Bowl at a Time Edited by Sharon Hapton, with Pierre A. Lamielle Review and Recipe Selections by Jennifer Gagel

T

here is nothing more warming than a bowl of soup on a cold winter day, unless it’s the Soup Sisters in action.

Started in Calgary by Sharon Hapton in 2009, Soup Sisters is an organization that, along with Broth Brothers, provides comforting bowls of homemade soup to women’s shelters and youth groups across Canada.

“A lot of the time the women that come through our doors are under tremendous stress,” says Colleen Kelly of Women’s Community House, as the Soup Sisters in London come together one chilly October night. “Sometimes they can barely even eat, and that’s where the bowls of soup make a huge difference. It may seem to a lot of people it’s a small thing, but really it’s not. A comforting bowl of soup, something easy to digest but still with the nutritional value that they need, gives women in crisis that little bit of energy to make some of the difficult decisions facing them.”

And so once a month a team of 15 to 25 women come together in the London Training Centre’s spacious, professional kitchen to stir up some comfort for those in need, and to have some fun while doing it.

The evening ends with a simple sit-down dinner of soup, bread and wine.

Suki Kaur-Cosier of Cooking Matters in Covent Garden Market leads the group in making three soups, one vegetarian, one with meat and one dairy-free. Suki is the perfect chef facilitator for these events; she’s a fantastic chef, an inspiring teacher, and she started a women’s shelter back in her native Britain before moving to Canada.

Her bright personality and positive can-do attitude contribute to a wonderful event.

The Soup Sisters Cookbook is a collection of the best tried-and-true recipes the Soup Sisters have to offer. Canadian culinary

greats such as Bonnie Stern, Eliz­ abeth Baird, Lucy Waverman and Christine Cush­ ing all have reci­ pes in the book, along with a bevy of Soup Sisters from across the country.

Word of the Soup Sisters great work has also spread south of the 49th parallel. Heidi Swanson of 101cookbooks.com contributed the recipe for Winter Vegetable and Tofu Korma. Laden with protein, this delectably spiced soup has just the right amount of heat to warm a cold winter’s night. Let guests dollop in their own yogurt cream topping to taste, rather than adding it to the soup before serving — preferably with naan bread.

Anna Olson’s recipe for Hungarian Beef Goulash with bacon and authentic csipetke (chip-ET-keh), little flour dumplings, is hearty and comforting, and smells fantastic wafting through the kitchen as it simmers. If making csipetke seems daunting, egg noodles will do in a pinch.

The collection of recipes is simple but varied, reflecting the myriad of Canadian tastes. The book has a section containing Essential Equipment and Soup-Making Techniques, so you won’t need Suki and her professional kitchen to help you replicate these delicious recipes. The full-page photos are so gorgeous you can practically smell the aroma coming right off the page.

Whether to family and friends or those in need, serve up a bowl of comfort from the Soup Sisters.

Jennifer Gagel works as a research assistant at London Public Library, and as a business analyst for Cunningham MacGregor & Associates. Contact jennagagel@gmail.com.

№ 39 | January/February 2013

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Hungarian Beef Goulash Makes about 4 servings 3 slices bacon, diced 1 ½ lb (750 g) boneless blade roast, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) pieces 2 onions, diced 1 large carrot, peeled and diced 1 parsnip, peeled and diced 1 stalk celery, diced 2 tbsp (30 mL) sweet Hungarian paprika 2 cloves garlic, minced or finely chopped 2 tsp (10 mL) finely chopped fresh thyme 1 tsp (5 mL) caraway seeds (optional) 2 bay leaves 4 cups (1 L) beef stock (use low-sodium if store-bought) 1 can (28 oz/796 mL) diced tomatoes Salt and pepper to taste Csipetke (see below) Sour cream for garnish

1 Heat a large pot over medium heat. Sauté the bacon until crisp. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper-towellined plate. Pour off all but 2 tbsp (30 mL) of the bacon fat from the pot.

2 Increase the heat to high. Brown the beef, in batches. Transfer the browned beef to a bowl.

3 Sauté the onions, carrot, parsnip and celery in the same pot over medium heat until the onions are softened.

4 Stir in the paprika, garlic, thyme, caraway seeds (if using) and bay leaves. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

5 Return the beef to the pot, along with the stock and tomatoes. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low.

6 Simmer, covered, until the beef is tender, about 90 minutes. Remove the bay leaves. Add salt and pepper to taste.

7 Prepare the csipetke (see below) and add to the goulash.

8 Serve the goulash in wide bowls topped with dollops of sour cream and a scattering of crispy bacon.

Csipetke are Hungarian pinched noodles that are perfect with the goulash.

1 Whisk 1 egg lightly, then stir in ½ cup (125 mL) all-purpose flour and a pinch of salt until wellcombined. The dough should be dense but a little stretchy and you should be able to pick it up and handle it with your hands. If it’s too dense, add a little water.

2 Using floured hands, pinch off little pea-size pieces of the dough and drop into the simmering goulash. Simmer for 5 minutes before serving.

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Recipes courtesy of The Soup Sisters Cookbook: 100 Simple Recipes to Warm Hearts...One Bowl at a Time, edited by Sharon Hapton, with Pierre A. Lamielle (Random House, 2012 $22.95)

Winter Vegetable and Tofu Korma Makes about 4 servings 1 ¾ tsp (9 mL) ground coriander 1 ½ tsp (7 mL) turmeric 1 ½ tsp (7 mL) red chili flakes 1 ½ tsp (7 mL) ground cumin ¼ tsp (1 mL) ground cardamom ¼ tsp (1 mL) ground cinnamon 2 onions, diced 2 tbsp (30 mL) ghee or clarified butter 1 tbsp (15 mL) grated fresh ginger 4 cloves garlic, minced or finely chopped 1 ½ lb (750 g) waxy potatoes, peeled and diced 12 oz (375 g) cauliflower, cut into tiny florets 2/3 cup (160 mL) toasted sliced almonds, divided ¾ tsp (4 mL) salt ½ cup (125 mL) Greek yogurt ½ cup (125 mL) whipping cream (35% MF) 12 oz (375 g) firm tofu, diced or cut into matchsticks 1 small bunch cilantro, finely chopped 1 Combine the coriander, turmeric, red chili flakes, cumin, cardamom and cinnamon in a small bowl. Set aside.

2 In a large pot over medium heat, sauté the onions in the ghee, until the onions are softened.

3 Stir in the ginger, then the garlic. Stir in the spice mixture and cook until the spices are very fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

4 Stir in the potatoes, cauliflower, half of the almonds, and the salt.

5 Add 3 cups (750 mL) water and stir gently.

Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low.

Simmer, partially covered, until the potatoes are almost cooked, 15 minutes.

6 Stir in the tofu. Simmer until the potatoes are tender and the tofu is heated through, about 5 minutes.

7 Meanwhile, stir together the yogurt, cream, and a pinch of salt in a bowl.

8 Reduce the heat to low and add the yogurt mixture all at once and bring the pot back just to the brink of a simmer. (Or serve the yogurt on the side, so people can make their bowl as rich as they like.) Add salt to the soup to taste.

9 Ladle up generous servings topped with cilantro and almonds.

ED note: Grapeseed oil works well in place of the ghee.

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cookbooks

Best Recipes of the Maritime Provinces The Best-Tasting Recipes from Home Cooks and Leading Chefs Edited by Elizabeth Baird Review and Recipe Selections by Jennifer Gagel

E

lizabeth Baird has been singing the praises of Canadian cuisine for over 30 years. The former food editor of Canadian Living magazine and bestselling cookbook author has been gently reminding us that our own country has much to offer the culinary world. In addition to promoting Canadian food, she’s long been a supporter of Canadian chefs. Baird has introduced us to the best and brightest in Canadian food over her long and illustrious career.

When longtime friend and Formac publisher James Lorimer approached Baird and asked her to help with a “little job,” she took on the challenge of wading through more than 30 cookbooks containing some of the greatest Maritime recipes published in the last 25 years. The result was Best Recipes of the Maritime Provinces. Baird used her extensive knowledge of flavours, techniques and regional fare to pare the list down to 400 recipes that she felt were most representative of the region.

The task was more than just a matter of numbers. Imagine having to choose the one best chowder or fish cake recipe from among all the regional favorites. The idea would make a lesser woman tremble. This icon of Canadian cuisine took it on and succeeded.

One of the biggest trends in food in the last few years is the return to the use of fresh, local ingredients. One might argue that Maritimers have the rest of the country at a bit of a disadvantage here.

Most of us can only dream of having the kind of seafood they have available in their backyard. And generations of Atlantic cooks have learned to make use of these beautiful ingredients to create simple,

elegant and stunningly delicious food.

Baird’s next challenge was to take these recipes, some of which are over three decades old, and edit them for consistency in measurement and techniques.

She chose recipes she felt Canadian cooks would most enjoy preparing themselves.

Baird has always been about making great food accessible to the everyday cook.

Best Recipes of the Maritime Provinces features a mix of old and new, from Atlantic peasant fare such as Rappie, an Acadian dish featuring grated potatoes, to modern dishes written for a new food-sophisticated audience.

You’ll also see outstanding seafood dishes like Salmon à la King with Sweet Peas, Leeks and Chopped Egg. This Maritime twist on Chicken à la King makes a glamorous main course.

But Maritimers don’t just serve seafood.

A restaurant in P.E.I., Seasons in Thyme, contributed their specialty, Season’s Cranberry-Glazed Chicken. Surprisingly easy, this entrée will have everyone at the table raving for more.

Introductions to the recipes were mostly taken from their original books to allow us to hear the voice of the author and enjoy the story of how they came to be created.

It is clear that this is a collaborative effort involving Baird, the original recipe writers, and the food producers of the region, both past and present.

Ms. Baird’s love of the Atlantic Region and of Canada is evident in every page of her latest project. In this book she invites us to get to know the cooks who created

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these wonderful recipes, to hear their stories about life, family and food and, in the end, to make some of these recipes our own.

№ 39 | January/February 2013 Jennifer Gagel works as a research assistant at London Public Library, and as a business analyst for Cunningham MacGregor & Associates. Contact jennagagel@gmail.com.

Recipes are courtesy of Best Recipes of the Maritime Provinces: The best tasting recipes from home cooks and leading chefs, edited by Elizabeth Baird (Formac, 2012, $29.95)

Salmon à la King with Sweet Peas, Leeks and Chopped Egg Serves 6 1 package frozen puff pastry shells or vol-au-vents 3 large eggs 3 tbsp (40 mL) butter 1 cup (250 mL) sliced white of leek ¼ cup (50 mL) all-purpose flour ½ tsp (2 mL) salt ¼ tsp (1 mL) white pepper ¼ cup (50 mL) white wine 1 cup (250 mL) cold milk ¼ cup (50 mL) heavy cream (35% mf) Pinch of nutmeg 1 tsp (5 mL) chopped fresh dill or tarragon 1½ pound (750 g) fresh salmon fillet, skinned and cut into bite-sized chunks ½ cup (125 mL) frozen peas Fresh dill sprigs for garnish 1 Prepare the puff pastry shells as directed on the package.

(They can be made ahead of time and warmed in the oven just prior to serving.)

2 Boil the eggs in water for 10 minutes and cool under running water. Peel the eggs and then cut them in half, removing the yolks.

Chop the whites coarsely and set aside. Grate the egg yolks through the finer holes of a grater and set aside.

3 Heat butter in a sauté pan and cook the leeks for a few minutes until they wilt and soften. Add the flour, salt and pepper and mix well. Cook over medium heat for about 3 minutes.

4 Add the wine, stirring very well. This will form a sticky-looking paste as the wine heats. Cook this for 3 minutes and then add the milk, whisking as the milk heats.

5 Whisk in the cream, nutmeg and dill. Cook the sauce for a few minutes and then add the peas and cubed salmon. Cook on medium heat for about 10 minutes, gently stirring a few times.

Fold in the reserved chopped egg white.

Presentation 6 Ladle the salmon mixture into the warm pastry shells. Pile it high and don’t worry if extra sauce spills over onto the plate. Use a teaspoon to sprinkle some grated egg yolk over top and garnish with a sprig of fresh dill.

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Season’s Cranberry-Glazed Chicken Serves 4 4 chicken breasts, skin on and wishbone attached 12 leaves fresh sage or basil Salt and pepper to taste 3 tbsp (40 mL) extra-virgin olive oil Cranberry Glaze ½ tbsp (8 mL) extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) finely diced shallots ¼ cup (50 mL) whole cranberries ½ tbsp (8 mL) finely chopped orange zest ¼ cup (50 mL) white wine 2 cups (500 mL) chicken stock 1 tbsp (15 mL) unsalted butter Salt and pepper to taste 1 Pat chicken breasts dry. Gently lift the skin and slide 3 herb leaves under each so they lie flat between the skin and the breast. Season breasts with salt and pepper.

2 Place a sauté pan or deep skillet over medium-high heat and add oil. Place the breasts in the pan, skin side down, and cook approximately 3 to 5 minutes, until skin is golden.

Turn and cook an additional 3 minutes.

3 Remove breasts and finish off in a 350°F (180°C) oven until juices run clear, 10 to 15 minutes. Allow to rest 4 to 6 minutes before carving.

Drizzle with Seasons’ Cranberry Glaze.

Cranberry Glaze 4 Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add shallots and sauté approximately 1½ minutes, being careful not to brown. Add cranberries, zest and white wine, then reduce by half. Add stock and boil to reduce by two-thirds. Swirl in butter with a small whisk and season with salt and pepper.

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â„– 39 | January/February 2013

Yankee Tavern

By Steven Dietz FEB 12 - MAR 2

Every bar has its regulars and Yankee Tavern has Ray. Ray keeps things lively with his tall tales, strange encounters and surprisingly gripping conspiracy theories.

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A Global Calendar of Holiday Food Continued from Page 70 ...

pictures of La Tomatina and I can’t quite figure where the eating of tomatoes takes place, but the juice and seeds seem to be plastered all over the hordes of participants.

If you love tomatoes and decide to partake in La Tomatina someday, be warned that it has also been nicknamed the World’s Biggest Food Fight. And the pictures don’t lie.

September 5 — Rosh Hashanah. This is the most important day on the Jewish calendar, celebrating the Jewish New Year, and another indication that some cultures celebrate the beginning of New Year on different calendars. This day begins a period of selfreflection and atonement for sins, and for some, it seems to make sense that reflection on sin should be done through food. Apples dipped in honey are the most symbolic food eaten during Rosh Hashanah to invoke a sweet year ahead.

October 1 — National Sake Day. For the Japanese, this is the day to celebrate the alcohol they are known for, and it coincides with the start of the Sake brewing season.

Having a specific day to commemorate a single spirit is a great way to try a drink you might not typically order at a bar.

November 30 — St. Andrew’s Day. Not quite as celebrated as the better-known saint of Ireland, this day set aside for Scotland’s patron, St. Andrew, might be less in the international forefront because of

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the local Scottish dishes that are typically served. There’s probably a reason it hasn’t strayed far from Scotland when you have your pick of specialty dishes such as Singed Sheep’s Head or Haggis, which consists of the organs of a sheep or calf boiled in the stomach of the animal. Appetizing!

December 25 — Christmas Day. The food eaten during the Christmas season is traditional and comforting, but make sure you don’t let the most symbolic food item of Christmas overshadow the great family meals that come with this holiday.

I’m referring to Christmas fruitcake. It can be good, but more often than not, it’s dry, solid as a brick, and tasty as mud. But dosed with rum and chased with a shot of eggnog, it goes down better. Alternatively, find someone who has a recipe that actually tastes good.

A Twelfth Night Cake, traditionally eaten on January 5 (the last day of the twelve days of Christmas), is flavoured with orange and lemon peels, made creamy with buttermilk, crunchy with pecans, and topped with a rum and orange juice glaze. That sounds much better than Aunt Gladys’s fruitcake.

We tend to overeat on these occasions because eating copious amounts of food has become a sign of festivity, so here’s hoping you indulge in as many of these holiday offerings as you can for the sake of celebration.

Darin Cook is eatdrink’s book reviewer. He occasionally gets out for a walk on the lighter side of the street.

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№ 39 | January/February 2013

the lighter side

A Global Calendar of Holiday Food Byy Darin Cook

W

ith a flip of the calendar, a fresh twelve months are beckoning. The year will be full of special feasts bringing families and ethnic communities together to honour certain days of the year. Here is a brief look at some upcoming holidays — some traditional, some religion-based, some unusual, some not even on the West­ ern calendar, but all revolve around special foods and beverages.

January 1 — New Year’s Day. Many of us start the New Year with as much champagne as we can throw down our gullets, which immediately goes to our heads, causing us to make a plethora of unrealistic resolutions. Champagne is good at making resolutions; humans are bad at keeping them. And this is why, when you do find yourself eating solid food between gulps of champagne, you should remember to eat some of the good-luck foods of various cultures so you can tip your destiny in the right direction.

Several European countries eat cooked greens (kale, chard, cabbage, collards) on New Year’s Day for the simple reason that they look like folded bills of money, symbolizing a year of financial success.

Lentils, beans, and black-eyed peas are popular for a similar reason in the southern United States — they resemble coins.

February 10 — Chinese New Year. This is the most important date on the Chinese calendar, and your favourite Chinese restaurant will be serving up some special dumplings to celebrate. Dumplings are the symbolic food of this Chinese holiday because they resemble ancient Chinese silver and gold currency, so foreshadow a profitable

future. The greeting for this holiday — Gung hay fat choi — means exactly that: “May you have good fortune and riches,” which is manifested through this symbolic food choice.

February 12 — Shrove Tuesday. This is the official name of the beginning of the Easter season, but it is also known as Pancake Tuesday. In Christian tradition, Lent was originally treated as a forty-day fast, but modern society has scaled it back by abstaining from only certain indulgences.

Traditionally, pancakes were a practical item because they used up the taboo foods of eggs, butter and milk that shouldn’t be lingering around your kitchen during Lent to tempt you. Pancake Tuesday is one last hoorah with a favourite comfort food, knowing that the upcoming self-denial will be challenging.

March 17 — St. Patrick’s Day. This is just another excuse to drink as much alcohol as possible, preferably pints of Guinness or shots of whiskey. It usually falls within the Lenten season, and Catholic communities have traditionally been torn. Alcohol is often given up for Lent, so what a nasty trick to put this day, when Guinness tastes so good, right in a period of abstinence. But that hasn’t stopped the Irish from taking a reprieve from abstaining from any foods they may have given up to celebrate their patron saint with Irish stew, Irish soda bread, and Shamrock salad.

August 28 — La Tomatina. This interesting festival held in Bunol, Spain is a celebration of tomatoes.

Many people visit Pamplona to partake in the legendary running with the bulls, but going to Bunol is less dangerous and a lot messier. I have seen Continued on Page 69 ...

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Did spelling “espresso” wrong get you all steamed up? Then you should try our Engine 86 Espresso: dark, powerful, and hearty – just like its namesake. The historic Engine 86 sits outside the building that houses our roastery, and is emblematic of the power found in this espresso blend. Comprised of beans from Guatemala, Brazil, and El Salvador, this delicious coffee is blended post-roast, giving us the utmost degree of precision and control. Hop on board the Expresso 86 and enjoy a FREE Espresso on us when you mention this ad. (Offer expires Feb. 28, 2013. Limit 1 per custuomer.)

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