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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario № 40 • March/April 2013 www.eatdrink.ca

eatdrink Special Feature

2013 World Figure Skating Championships for the

Where to Eat & Drink in Canada’s

LONDON FlLaovcoal

ur

and Featuring

Served Her

e

Blackfriars

Betty Heydon Makes It Personal

The Local Community Food Centre Thought for Food, in Stratford

Kitchen Design The Heart(h) of the Home

Visit the

Taste of Huron Cooking Stage presented by

eatdrink

Women’s Lifestyle Show London Convention Centre

March 23 & 24

ALSO: Porcino | The Art of Polish Cooking | Niagara Icewines | My Canada Includes Foie Gras

A delicious new season

springs to life

in STRATFORD

Stratford salutes spring with the annual Swan Parade. Experience sweet tastes on our newest adventure, the Maple Trail. Or take a guided trek foraging for wild leeks and fiddleheads. Bring some friends and join a master chef at a GE Café Chef’s cooking class. Savour spring’s flavours in Stratford.

MARCH

1-3 Stratford Garden Festival - Stratford Rotary Complex 3 GE Café Chefs Cooking Classes – Tim Larsen, Mercer Hall 11-15 Stratford Chefs School – March Break Culinary Camp – adults & teens 21 Jack de Keyzer - Dinner Concert @ Foster’s Inn 30 Savour Stratford Tasting – Cheese & Beer of the British Isles APRIL

6&7 Swan Parade Weekend – restaurant brunches 14 GE Café Chefs Cooking Classes – Ryan Crawford, Gastrohomestead, Niagara 18 Stephen Fearing – Dinner Concert @ Foster’s Inn 21 GE Café Chef’s Cooking Classes – Rob Rossi, Bestellen, Toronto 27 Spring Foraging Feast – Puck’s Plenty & The Milky Whey

visitstratford.ca

@StratfordON

StratfordON

EatAndDrinkMagazineAd_Dec2012_Rev 12-12-11 11:47 AM Page 1

UNCORK OUR PASSION!

Discover Southwestern Ontario’s only Wine, Spirit and Ale Trail.

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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario № 40 • March/April 2013 www.eatdrink.ca

eatdrink

5

2

3

Special Feature

for the 2013 World Figure Skating Championships

Where to Eat & Drink in Canada’s

LONDON Flav Local our and Featuring

Served Here

Blackfriars

Betty Heydon Makes It Personal

The Local Community Food Centre Thought for Food, in Stratford

Kitchen Design The Heart(h) of the Home

Visit the

Taste of Huron Cooking Stage presented by

eatdrink

Women’s Lifestyle Show

London Convention Centre

6

7

March 23 & 24

8

OUR COVER: We randomly selected 8 excellent examples of Where to Eat & Drink in London (1–Blackfriars; 2–Blu Duby; 3–Garlic’s of London; 4–Che RestoBar; 5–Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium; 6–Kantina Café; 7–Aroma Mediterranean Restaurant; 8–Michael’s On The Thames) Photos 1, 2, 3, 4, 6 & 8 by Steve Grimes.

aLSO: Porcino | The Art of Polish Cooking | Niagara Icewines | My Canada Includes Foie Gras

Copyright © 2013 ­eatdrink™ inc. and the writers. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or duplication of any material published in ­eatdrink™ or on eatdrink.ca™ is strictly prohibited without the written per­ mis­sion of the Publisher. ­eatdrink™ has a circulation of 15,000 issues published six times annually. The views or opinions expressed in the

information, content and/or advertisements published in ­eatdrink™ or online are solely those of the author(s) and do not necessarily represent those of the Publisher. The Publisher welcomes submissions but accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.

Delicious Seven Days a Week Dinner, Lunch or Sunday Brunch

Join us for these Spring Events…

• Spring Fling Film Festival • Goderich Home and Cottage Show • Run Around the Square • The Sound of Goderich • Kinette Street Dance • Farmers and Flea Markets (open Victoria Day Weekend)

For information please contact:

Tourism Goderich 1 800 280 7637 or visit our website at:

goderich.ca

contents

ISSUE â„– 40

March/april 2013

foo d w ri t er at l a r g e 10 Eat, Drink, Skate! Where to Eat and Drink in London

10

By BRYAN LAVERY

R E S TAU R A N T S 16 Betty Heydon Makes It Personal at Blackfriars

By JANE ANTONIAK

22 Porcino: From Windsor with Love, in London

By JANE ANTONIAK

16 22 24

EW!

KITCHEN DESIGN N 24 Kitchen Design: The Heart(h) of the Home

By SUSAN ORFALD

C U L I N A RY E D U C AT I O N 28 The Local Community Food Centre, in Stratford

By DAVID HICKS fa r m ers & a r t is a ns 32 Farmers Feed Cities and Fresh From the Field Dinner

By BRYAN LAVERY

N E W & N O TA B L E 35 The BUZZ

THE BUZZ

c at erers 42 The Art of Polish Cooking, in London

By BRYAN LAVERY

T R AV E L 46 A Distinctive Culinary Scene in Kingston ON

28 56

By BRYAN LAVERY

B eer m at t ers 50 Beer Pairings

By BRUCE FYFE

52

W I N E 52 Liquid Gold Perfection: Niagara Icewines

By RICK VanSICKLE

BOOKS 56 My Canada Includes Foie Gras by Jacob Richler

Review by DARIN COOK COOKBOOKS 58 The Epicurious Cookbook edited by Tanya Steel

Review and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL

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T H E L I G H T E R S I D E 62 Ladies Who Lunch

By K YM WOLFE

â„– 40 | March/April 2013

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№ 40 | March/April 2013

tidbits

Skating Into London’s Local Flavour

By Chris McDonell, eatdrink Publisher

W

dining scene. Whether you’re new to town ith the World Figure Skating or a local gastronome, I’m certain you’ll find Championships upon us, out something you didn’t know. Of course, the timing is perfect eatdrink is about more than London. to introduce the 2013 Read all about Stratford’s London Culinary Guide. Pick up OCAL exciting Local Community a copy or visit eatdrink.ca for the FlaLv our Food Centre, a new hub for virtual issue. It looks great on creative culinary and community an iPad, tablet or smartphone endeavours. And we’re excited to if you’re on the go, and is full of introduce a new Kitchen Design outstanding dining destinations, column. We know our readers many of our premier culinary Local Flavour love to eat out, but enjoying food at retailers, and our vibrant home is also important for so many markets and food festivals. The reasons. We plan to help support primary goal is to be useful, but readers with plenty of ideas about we want to look good while we’re making their “heart of the home” as being of service, and I think the guide functional as possible. accomplishes that. Enjoy!

This issue of eatdrink leads off with another great reminder of the richness of the London Lon

The

Restaur

ants • Culinary

don

201

’s

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Served Here

Retail • Farmers’

Markets

• Food Fest

ivals

londo ntouri sm.ca

Tastes from around the World Affordably Fresh, Friendly & Local coventmarket.com Mon. to Thurs. 8–6 pm, Fri. 8–7:30 pm, Sat. 8–6 pm, Sun. 11–4 pm

CoventGardenMarket

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www.eatdrink.ca

Authentic

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Culinary ExpEriEnCEs FROM FARM TO TABLE, LONDON’S CULINARY CULTURE IS COOKING WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR

WWW.LONDONTOURISM.CA/CULINARY

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www.eatdrink.ca

№ 40 | March/April 2013

food writer at large

Eat, Drink, Skate!

Where to Eat and Drink in Downtown London, on Richmond Row and Off the Beaten Path

By Bryan Lavery

I

t’s time to roll out the red carpet. On March 11, 2013, figure skating fans from around the world will be coming to London, Ontario for the 2013 International Skating Union World Figure Skating Championships. This premier sporting event will run from March 11 to 17, at Budweiser Gardens.

For those visiting London for the first time, and for locals looking for a quick refresher course on the dining scene close to the action, here is a partial list of many of London’s fine restaurants.

DOWNTOWN LONDON Abruzzi Ristorante Abruzzi is downtown London’s pre-

miere Italian-inspired restaurant, an up-to-date epicurean hot spot serving both modern and emblematic regional specialties.

Owners Rob D’Amico and Chef Dave Lamer’s offerings are intuitive, often iconic, prepared with locally-sourced and quality ethnic ingredients. A superior wine list has plenty of interesting consignments. 119 King Street 519-675-9995

Amici Italian Restaurant Chef Paul Krohn’s small and attractive Alto Adige-inspired trattoria, located in the downtown hotel district, serves traditional “rustic” Italian specialties with quality ingredients. The place fills up quickly, so be sure to make a reservation. Attentive service. 350 Dundas Street 519-439-8983 Auberge du Petit Prince

Chef focuses on good, simple, seasonal, country-French cuisine, such as shrimp au pistou, confit of duck, vichyssoise and French onion soup. The pièce de résistance: the delicious escargot fondue. Dine in sophistication, with crystal and linen. Extensive wine cellar.

Free parking. 458 King Street (at Maitland) 519-434-7124

Billy’s Deli Billy’s Deli has been a down­town landmark for thirty years. For lunch, specialty deli sandwiches like the quintessential Reuben and Montreal smoked meat are made with a quarter pound of meat, warm and sliced off the brisket.

Interesting daily blackboard specials are enticing, and add ­seasonality to the extensive menu. Billy’s is known for its fantastic baking. 113 Dundas St. (at Talbot). 519-679-1970 The Black Shire Pub

In addition to the pub menu you are offered weekly crafted menu items of updated comfort foods that are simple and familiar. At The Black Shire you will find seventeen taps on the main coffin and another three in the second floor lounge. Bubble and squeak with bangers and neeps. 511 Talbot Street 519-433-7737

Black Trumpet Elegant with an idiosyncratic point of view expressed in its Dutch-colonial Indonesian eclecticism. Chef and his culinary team have an up-to-date take on world-inspired cuisine.

Sourcing Australian lamb racks, farmed Faroe Island salmon and Muscovy duck to create upscale time-honoured offerings. 523 Richmond Street (South of Kent Street) 519-850-1500 Blu Duby Clever and witty service is a Blu Duby hallmark.

Chefs Alicia Hartley and Dani Gruden-Murphy combine comfort food classics with Asian and Mediterranean twists to make a recession-friendly menu. Beef cheek tacos with Gruyère hit a high note. Blu Duby continues its ascent. Diverse wine list. 32 Covent Market Place (north side of the Market to Dundas St.) 519-433-1414 Braywick Bistro and Wine Bar Anissa and Barry Foley and Chef Ian McGill have elevated the bistro. A stylish interior with warm tones punctuating the serene, gently-lit interior provides a welcoming oasis. Signature dishes include the ubiquitous (in this case newly gluten-free) Pad Thai. The sweet potato stix have gone AWOL, instead a much more ambitious menu is redefining this made-from-scratch kitchen. 244 Dundas Street (across from Central Library) 519-645-6524 Budapest Restaurant A local gem with lots of red velvet and unintended kitsch, doyenne Marika Hayek has been delighting clients by serving Hungarian specialities in this traditional old- world tavern setting for over 50 years. Of course, you must try the schnitzel or the stuffed veal — the spätzle is also delicious —save room for the palacsinta. 348 Dundas Street 519-439-3431 Che RestoBar Marvin Rivas fêtes patrons at his welcoming Latin-American inspired restaurant. This chic hot-spot features exposed brick walls, granite bar, and massive light fixtures. The menu has a distinctly Peruvian flavour, influenced by Chef German Nunez’s heritage. The tuna ceviche, yucca poutine and skirt steak tacos are to die for. Interesting wine and exotic cocktail lists. 225 Dundas Street (at Clarence) 519-601-7999

www.eatdrink.ca

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The Church Key Bistro-Pub

Vanessa and Pete Willis’ Church Key is a downtown gastro pub with farm-to-table cuisine and an impressive selection of craft beers. Chef Michael Anglestad follows in the modern British tradition by specializing in traditional food prepared with innovation and finesse. Sea scallops wrapped in house smoked salmon, drizzled with grapefruit and rice wine syrup and togarashi aioli are nirvana. 476 Richmond Street, (North of Queens Avenue) 519-936-0960

David’s Bistro David’s presents perfectly executed classic regional French-inspired specialities and has developed a strong and rustic culinary signature. French cuisine is all about tradition and consistency, and nobody does it better, night after night. The bistro with its tiny bar, vibrant red walls and black-checked tablecloths is a venerated downtown culinary destination. Extensive and ever-changing consignment wine selection. The succulent confit of duck is requisite. 432 Richmond Street (at Carling) 519-667-0535

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rising culinary stars, Chef Joshua Fevens and Chef Chad Steward, is influenced by a strong commitment to supporting local and sustainable food and agriculture, and has been instrumental in helping to raise the bar for intelligent and ethical dining in London. 481 Richmond Street 519-432-4092

Gozen Bistro and Grill Gozen has a strong following, with a menu of authentic Japanese Sushi and Korean specialties. Signatures include: Bulgogi wrap with marinated beef, served with lettuce, rice and Kochujang sauce. Soft shell crab tempura is the house specialty. 219 Queens Ave. (at Clarence) 519-858-9998

The Grille at Delta London Armouries

The Early Bird

The Grille, at London’s Delta Armouries has been recently refurbished and redecorated. Originally constructed in 1905, this historic building was the location for training Canadian soldiers during the two great World Wars. Chef serves a locally sourced menu of delicious internationally-inspired cuisine. 325 Dundas Street 679-6111

Garlic’s of London

Jambalaya Jambalaya — a traditional Cajun blend of deliciously spiced meat, rice and vegetables — is the perfect name for Chef Kevin Greaves’ sultry restaurant. Chef pays homage to his native Guyanese cuisine. Laid-back comfortable surroundings, upbeat music, slate-tile floors, exposed brick, a fireplace, and walls adorned with splashes of colour and vibrant prints. 19 Dundas Street (at Talbot) 519-858-2000

This red-hot, retro diner has added an additional 28 seats to the premises to accommodate line ups. The adjoining Night Owl is now a cozy Bourbon bar. Signature dishes include the King-sized turducken club sandwich made with turkey, chicken and duck, perogies, and Montreal smoked meat that is made on site. Save room for the bacon-fried pickles. These are dishes with real soul. 355 Talbot St., 519-439-6483

Edo Pehilj’s Garlic’s is the prototype for the ethical modern Ontario restaurant. The cooking repertoire of

Experience

Visit our Welcome Centre, March 11 – 17 123 King Street • www.downtownlondon.ca • 519.663.2002

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Kantina Café

Owner Miljan Karac and Culinary Rock Star/ Chef Danijel “Dacha” Markovic prove their ferocious artistry by reinterpreting classic Balkan-inspired cuisine in their chic but casual downtown restaurant. This is a scratch kitchen and all items are made in-house and by hand. The menus are hyper-local and artisanal, with thoughtful and exciting riffs on an iconic indigenous cuisine. 349 Talbot Street 519-672-5862

La Casa Ristorante Consistency and familiarity are the hallmarks of the La Casa experience. Chef Scott “Scotty” Sanderson’s menus are rooted in the Italian tradition. Pasta and pizza purists will appreciate the house made offerings. Sanderson’s Rabbit Straccetti (twisted rags) with Ontario rabbit ragu, red pepper, fennel, tomato and Romano cheese, alone is worth the visit. 117 King Street (across from Covent Garden Market) 519-434-2272 London Ale House The Ale House has a huge selection of beers — local, from around the world, draught, bottled and ciders.

Menu items are prepared in-house, from scratch — even the condiments, using beers and ciders with each of their menu items.

288 Dundas Street (across from Delta Armouries Hotel) 519-204-2426 London Grill at Hilton Hotel London From your greeting by the Beefeater doorman, to three unique dining options, enjoy the Hilton experience with a London twist. London Grill offers fine casual dining in an intimate setting, featuring beautifully prepared and presented menu selections. Enjoy light snacks in JJ Keys Lounge, the cozy piano lounge. The Market Cafe offers a great menu for breakfast or lunch. The emphasis is on

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quality ingredients, freshness, and exceeding customer expectations. 300 King Street (E of Wellington) 519 439 1661

Massey’s Fine Indian Cuisine Chef Patson Massey shows his expertise with the combining and roasting of exotic spices, subtle and complex, bestowing and building flavours to great effect. A variety of vegetarian offerings and classic favourites like: smoky-spiced Baingan Patiala, everything tandoori, butter chicken, nann, and various exotic accompaniments. 174 King Street (near Richmond) 519-672-2989 Marienbad Restaurant / Chaucer’s Pub Marienbad is located in one of London’s oldest heritage buildings. A popular downtown restaurant, Marienbad brings a polished European flair to downtown dining, in a casual atmosphere.

The menu features European and Austro-Germanic specialties, signature dishes include an exceptional steak tartare and schnitzel, and there is a superior beer selection. 122 Carling Street (at Talbot) 519-679-9940 Michael’s On The Thames Enjoy Continental cuisine in the relaxing atmosphere of a stone fireplace, a view overlooking the Thames River, and the elegance of a baby grand. Specializing not only in old-world continental cuisine, but also in the classic European-style tradition of tableside cooking, which includes: steak Diane, Chateaubriand and classic flambéed desserts, as well as signature flaming after-dinner coffees. Free parking with reservations. 1 York Street (at the bridge) 519-672-0111

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Milos Craft Beer Emporium

London’s premier craft beer destination is owned and operated by publican Milos Kral. Chef Matt Reijnen prepares menus that reflect their farm-to-table commitment and passion for everything local. 23 micros on tap, with excellent style variation. Craft beer enthusiasts and serious hop heads are quickly making this local landmark part of Ontario’s rich pub culture. 420 Talbot Street North (at Carling) 519-601-4447

The Morrissey House

Morrissey House is welcoming, with a unique selection of beers and innovative pub food offerings. Chef Andrew Harris delivers a menu to please, portions are ample, the selections are varied and the spice quotient is as advertised. Comfortable, recognizable, and yet with their own twist. 359 Dundas Street. 519-204-9220

The Only On King Hot-shot Chef/owner Paul Harding plays to all his strengths with a superior grasp on the tenets of terroir. Harding’s farm-to-table philosophy and cooking repertoire continue to impress while attracting savvy diners. If you are looking for your inner gastronome this is the place. — Foie gras parfait and ravishing charcuterie. Standout Sunday brunch. 172 King Street 519-936-2064 The Raja The Raja exudes elegance and a level of luxury befitting its name. Many dishes beg for overindulgence. Share the mixed platter with vegetable pakora, chicken tikka, sheek kabab, and onion bhajee, all served on a sizzling platter. The

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dining room has character and sophistication with its marble floors, deep red painted walls and white accents. 428 Clarence St. (North of Dundas) 519-601-7252

The River Room Jess Jazey-Spoelstra’s River Room, inside Museum London, has banks of tinted windows with panoramic views overlooking the Forks of the Thames. With the clubby ambience of a Manhattan restaurant, with its casual, tailored décor and New York attitude, The River Room is open for lunch Tuesday to Friday, and weekends for Brunch, and will open for dinner during the skating competition. Museum London, Ridout Street North. 519- 850-2287 Tamarine by Quynh Nhi This sleek and urbanchic spot has a sophisticated palette and an upscale mix of contemporary Asian-inspired motifs, art, cuisine and ambiance.

Chefs Quynh and Nhi combine the freshest ingredients with traditional flavours to create a unique menu designed to promote communal dining. Long Phan is your charming and knowledgeable host. 118 Dundas Street 519-601-8276 The Tasting Room

Lively tapas bars were the inspiration for this restaurant. Menus are a mixture of up-to-the-minute trends and updated classics. Appetizers are the main focus and the list is extensive. Wine tasting flights are divided into four, 2-ounce glasses of red or white. 483 Richmond Street 519-438-6262

TG’s Addis Ababa Restaurant Noteworthy restaurants can pop up in the most unexpected places. This hospitable gem is tucked inauspiciously in a row of buildings between Burwell and

Taste Downtown London

— We’re Alive with Flavour!

During the World Figure Skating Championships (March 11–17), visit the Downtown Welcome Centre at 123 King Street for information about restaurants, retailers, service providers & local culture hot spots

info@downtownlondon.com • www.downtownlondon.ca • 519.663.2002

KLEIBER’S A Downtown London Culinary Landmark at the Covent Garden Market since 1940

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Maitland on Dundas Street. Owners, T.G. and Sam, guide the uninitiated to select from a menu of outstanding and perfectly prepared Ethiopian specialties that are elaborately spiced. Vegetarians and expats flock here. 465 Dundas Street (at Maitland) 519-433-4222

Thaifoon

A casually hip and stylish take on the ancient Thai culture, with a décor and cuisine that honours the past while embracing modernity Thaifoon has earned both raves and respect for their delicious food and friendly service. One of the city’s go-to Thai restaurants. 120 Dundas Street (East of Talbot) 519-850-1222

Trü Trü Restaurant and Lounge, located in one of London’s most historic buildings, boasts a kitchen at the top of London’s dining scene. Chef’s commitment to freshness and knowing the provenance of what is on the plate is the cornerstone of Trü’s culinary philosophy. 45 King Street (at Ridout Street) 519-672- 4333 UpFront at the Market Chefs Josh and Jody Stall’s eclectic menus reflect its owner’s passion for bold, exuberant and diverse flavour combinations. Internationally-inspired casual comfort food made from scratch. 130 King Street (at the Covent Garden Market) 519-675-1020 Waldo’s on King Bistro & Wine Bar Mark Kitching’s talented culinary brigade offer traditional bistro-style selections. This is where you will find the best “organic” burger in town. Greg Simpson rocks the bar at Waldo’s several nights a week. 130 King Street (Covent Garden Market) 519-433-6161

Anna Turkewicz’s delicatessen and catering have a reputation for personal service and offering a large selection of European specialties, including quality products from Germany, Holland, Poland & Switzerland

Ensure your event is a success!

For the best food and venues, call Kleiber’s for a free catering estimate.

Civic Garden’s Approved Caterer London’s German Canadian Club and Polish Canadian Club Caterer

Covent Garden Market 519-495-7753

The Works The Works is downtown London’s gourmet burger bistro. There are over 60 topping styles on offer, with a variety of meat and vegetarian options. 145 King Street (across from the Covent Garden Market) 519-601-5464 Zen Gardens Vegetarian Restaurant Zen Garden’s creative kitchen serves the best healthy vegetarian meals that you can imagine, in an upscale, tranquil atmosphere. Even meat substitutes are made from natural ingredients and spices; absolutely no chemicals or preservatives. 344 Dundas Street 519-433-6688 RICHMOND ROW DISTRICT Aroma Mediterranean Restaurant and Adega Lounge Wine Cellar Felipe Gomes’s Aroma evokes a strong Old World ambiance. The open courtyard dining room features a three-storey vaulted ceiling, creating a spacious yet cozy space. Menus feature signature specialties from all over the Mediterranean. There is always a selection of fresh fish. 123 Richmond Street (at Piccadilly) 519-435-0616

The Coates of Arms Pub & Restaurant This traditional British Pub offers a wide selection of domestic and imported draught beers. Their tagline is “Be warm. Be Welcome. Be at Home.” They feature a full menu including many traditional and iconic pub specialties like: Bangers and Mash, Toad in the Hole and Cottage Pie. A warm and friendly vibe provides the ideal location to meet for a casual lunch, cocktails at five, dinner or an evening out on the town. 580 Talbot Street (corner of Albert) 519-432-1001 Dragonfly Bistro

Donald and Nora Yuriann have an irresistible kitchen, a moderately priced menu, and service that is welcoming. If you are planning to visit for Indonesian Rijsttafel on

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www.eatdrink.ca

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Monday nights, be sure to make a reservation. This is a hidden gem in plain sight, on Richmond Row. 715 Richmond Street 519-432-2191

seasonal blackboard specials with health-conscious menu choices.

Irresistible Sunday brunch. 46 Blackfriars Street, 519-667-4930

Fellini Koolini’s Italian Cuisini / The Runt Club

Mykonos Heidi and Bill Vamvalis have been serving authentic Greek food and traditional English fish and chips for over thirty years. In that time, we expect the gracious and irrepressible Heidi has hugged the entire city. Mykonos has an extensive menu selection of casual Greek fare. There is a nicely revamped wine list featuring several good Greek selections. 572 Adelaide Street, 519-434-6736

These sibling restaurants are located on a charming side street just off Richmond Row. Fellini Koolini’s is über-restaurateur Mike Smith’s tongue-in-cheek homage to the surreal Italian director.

Favourites include a seemingly endless selection of highbrow/ lowbrow creations: pastas, thin-crust pizza, steamed mussels, calamari, steaks, etc. Next door, The Runt Club is a typical “local,” offering Fellini’s menu. 155 Albert Street, 519-642-2300

SLIGHTLY OFF THE BEATEN PATH All offer ample free parking.

Avenue Dining at Idlewyld Owner Marcel Butchey and Chef Julie Glaysher create a culinary experience that is both sophisticated and classic. The restaurant is a reflection of the casual elegance that the Idlewyld, an elegant boutique inn, has built its reputation around. Plaudits for the cozy ambience, innovative cuisine, bravura and artistry on each plate. Jazz Nights. 36 Grand Avenue 519-433-2891 Blackfriars Meander a couple of blocks from Downtown to Blackfriars Bistro and peruse Betty Heydon’s eclectic, handwritten menu. Culinary doyennes Chef Jacqui Shantz and Zakia Haskouri are part of the culinary brigade. Located steps from the historic Blackfriars Bridge, this is an artistic bistro featuring innovative,

Full Dinner Now Featuring

for Two Only $60

Reservations Recommended

Quick Lunch | Dinner Take-Out | Gift Cards

Welcome World Figure Skating Championships!

Corporate Meetings | Multimedia Projector | Private Events

519-601-7252 428 Clarence Street, London

www.rajafinedining.ca

The Springs Chef Andrew Wolwowicz has earned the not-so-easy admiration of fellow chefs. A remarkable culinary gymnast who cooks with skill and dedication, his menus are crafted from local, regional and seasonal products and are executed with innovation. There is the luxury of ample well-lit parking. 310 Springbank Drive, 519-657-1100 Windermere’s Café at The Windermere Manor Hotel and Conference Centre Executive Chef Kristian

Crossen embraces a farm-to-table approach. He and his culinary team showcase a selection of “old favourites,” signature ingredients, and taste experiences that change regularly to take advantage of the seasons. Daily breakfast, lunch and dinner; Sunday Brunch. 20 Collip Circle (off Windermere, W of Western Road) 519-858-5866

BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known chef, culinary activist, Farmers’ Market Manager and writer. Mr. Lavery has spent many years in teaching, consulting, and advisory roles with various culinary initiatives.

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www.eatdrink.ca

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restaurants

Betty Heydon Makes it Personal at Blackfriars, in London

By JANE ANTONIAK Photography by steve Grimes and Bruce FYFE

I

n the demanding restaurant business, nothing says success like longevity. And when you combine longevity with ongoing creative culinary renewal, you have something special: a place you can depend on and delight in.

That’s what Betty Heydon and her team at Blackfriars have achieved for countless fans of her eclectic bistro and highly rated catering company in London. And Heydon shows no sign of slowing down, or changing her philosophy of caring for people through her love of food.

Blackfriars is within walking distance of London’s downtown core but “away from the hustle and bustle” on Blackfriars Street “When you feed people, you also feed their spirit along with their body,” says Heydon, who has owned and operated Blackfriars since its inception in the mid1990s. “What I believe is that people should eat what they want. We, in this business, should cater to them. In the end, it’s a matter of having respect for all food.”

Located just west of London’s downtown core and its namesake, Blackfriars Bridge, the bistro has a unique location; within walking distance of the core but, in Heydon’s parlance, “away from the hustle and bustle.” Located in a heritage building (which once housed a broom factory), and situated in one of London’s oldest neighbourhoods, the bistro draws guests for what Heydon and her team of chefs create in the kitchen.

Led by Head Chef Jacqueline Shantz, with the assistance of Julianna Guy, Zakia Haskouri, Michael Moore and Justin Betty Heydon, right, and Head Chef Jacqueline Shantz

№ 40 | March/April 2013

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Warren, Blackfriars features daily lunch and dinner specials along with a popular Sunday brunch.

With such a breadth of talent, the chef’s specials really shine, such as the appetizer Canadian lobster tail with persimmons on a bed of locally produced hydroponic butter lettuce.

It’s All About Teamwork

All items are made in-house, including two types of breads.

The kitchen is adept at handling special dietary needs including gluten-free, lactose-free and vegan.

Shantz and Heydon have been working together for more than 30 years, and have a mutual understanding of how each other performs best.

For example, Heydon has great respect for Shantz’ creativity and her special skill with grilling meats. Her grilled pork tenderloin medallions with polenta and calvados pan glaze are delicious and extraordinarily tender. Shantz welcomes Heydon’s own love of cooking, ability to “troubleshoot” recipes, and to plan caterings, conceive new menu ideas and search for products.

“Betty is our ‘Queen Bee’,” chuckles Shantz, who trained at George Brown College. Shantz apprenticed at the Betty Heydon, seated to the left, has assembled a stellar team at Blackfriars. In the back row, left to right, are Jenna Monteith, Justin Warren and Michael Moore. In the middle row are Julianna Guy and Zakia Haskouri. Seated are Alicia Schmitt and Jacqueline Shantz.

Daily updates to the chalkboard menu have been a consistent feature at Blackfriars, a personal touch and a sign of dedication to fresh and seasonal menus

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breast, which hasn’t come off the menu in 17 years, and won’t, says Heydon. The “cuttingedge” comes into play when Chef Shantz changes up the plate from time to time with a different stuffing, such as feta-infused cream cheese and Swiss chard. A bistro classic is grilled beef tenderloin, playfully served on an Applewood cheddar and caramelized onion scalloped potato, finished with Sauce Diane and garlicky Roma tomato.

Blackfriars has a comforting feel with shades of purple and blue on the walls, a display of glass bottles and original art — some done by Heydon, others by guests —and the large blackboard menu, personally handwritten each day. With 12 tables of twos and fours the restaurant can be easily reconfigured to host groups, or can be rented out in its entirety.

Brunch Suggestion: Crème Brûlée French Toast, served with fresh fruit and warm syrup Some of Blackfriars’ fans know the restaurant more for their catering than bistro dining. As one of London’s premier caterers, Heydon handles such prestigious accounts as The Grand Theatre’s special events, as well as weddings, home parties and corporate gatherings.

The “personalized catering service” means that each client sets their own menu after a meeting with Heydon.

“Our customers are special people to me,” says Heydon. “I know what they like. I feel an affinity to them. I know their families and the changes in their lives. We have customers who Lunch Suggestion: Grilled Pork Tenderloin medallions and smoked have been coming since the doors gouda and Asiago cheese polenta opened. It’s all very personal and so the cooking is very personal.”

Heydon infuses Blackfriars with a respect for health. While quick to point out Blackfriars is not a health food restaurant, Heydon is passionate about creating food that makes people feel good and is good for them. There are a lot of interesting fruits and vegetables, whole grains and fish on the menu, and an infusion of complete proteins for vegetarians and healthy oil consumption. Even her dessert classic, Bread Pudding, is Dinner Suggestion: Grilled Beef Tenderloin on an applewood carefully made with whole grains cheddar and caramelized onion scalloped potato, a sautée of forest and without 35% whipping cream. mushrooms, finished with a diane sauce and garlicky roma tomato

Millcroft Inn before heading to Switzer­ land, where she developed a love for skiing along with her own culinary style, described by Heydon as “cutting-edge with a respect for tradition.”

That tradition comes into play with the pine nut and almond crusted chicken

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Now Ope n

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Craft beers and consignment wines are bar features “It’s not a heart-stopper and people look forward to it”, she says, smiling.

Ahead of the curve with her thinking and performance, Heydon is not entertaining thoughts of slowing down. “When you are doing something you absolutely love,” she says, “it’s more than a job, it is your life. And the customers are my people. By feeding people you get this intimate relationship with your clients, so how do you say goodbye to people you know so well?” Clearly, and thankfully, Blackfriars continues on with its own unique beat and contribution to the London culinary community.

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Blackfriars Bistro and Catering 46 Blackfriars Street, London 519-667-4930 www.blackfriarsbistro.com lunch: monday–friday, 11:30–2:30 pm dinner: monday–saturday, 5 pm–10 pm brunch: sunday, 11 am–2 pm JANE ANTONIAK operates Antoniak Communications and is the Social Media Editor for eatdrink magazine.

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restaurants

From Windsor with Love Gino Parco brings Porcino to London

By JANE ANTONIAK Photography by BRUCE FYFE

M

ention pizza and Windsor in the same sentence and you often get a wistful sigh in return. The city is synonymous with delicious Italian food, often baked in wood-fired ovens. A taste of that cooking has landed in west London, with the arrival of Chef Gino Parco’s Porcino, on Hyde Park Road just north of Gainsborough.

With the first 100% wood-burning pizza oven in London (whereas Windsor has 10), for those who love Windsor-style pizza, this is pretty exciting news. Porcino’s oven heats up to around 800 degrees and can cook a thin-crust pizza in less than two minutes, creating a crispy yet soft crust and evenly cooked toppings. The Patata pizza features potato slices, caramelized onion, rosemary and gorgonzola crema — comfort food at its best. Chef Parco fires up the oven each morning from his wood supply out back and then lets it die down by supper-time. The staff jokes that it heats the whole restaurant.

Guests can take a look at it too, as the kitchen is open — divided by a half-wall that Gino likes to lean over to chat with his guests. His trademark smile is a pretty clear indicator of how happy he is in the kitchen.

Modern yet casual ...

Chef Gino Parco But Porcino is much more than pizza.

Parco is a graduate of the George Brown College culinary program and did his training at some top restaurants, including Langdon Hall, before returning to his hometown of Windsor to work. He opened Porcino there in 1996, followed by Colours at the Windsor Art Gallery. In 2010 Parco sold the restaurant to his partner, and the Porcino name was changed to Toscana.

“For a long time I wanted a change — to try to live somewhere different,” he says.

He had heard about the success the Remark family had experienced, by expanding to London, so Parco followed suit. He toured the city on many weekends and decided on Hyde Park for Porcino. “I saw this area was growing. The west end seemed nice and I had some good feedback.

So, instead of moving to Toronto or Vancouver, I chose London. I can still stay in touch with my family in Windsor, too.”

Porcino is a casual neighbourhood restaurant with seating for about 30 people, large open windows and a centrepiece bar. With black tables and chrome accents, it’s modern family Italian, with peppy music and a TV screen over the bar.

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The 100% wood-burning oven was imported from Italy Still, it has an adult tone with an impressive wine and cocktail list including 33 red wines, some high-end champagnes, and fun cocktails such as the Bicicletta: Campari, Pinot Grigio and club soda.

Chef Parco says he does “simple food, properly.” He should also add, expertly. For example, try his take on another Windsor classic: giant meat balls which are served as an appetizer with homemade meat sauce on a modern glass plate. Accompanied by his house made olives and some bread, Porcino shines with both small plates and full meals.

Also winning diners is the Wild Mushroom Ravioli served with his own mushroom cream sauce, truffle oil and parmesan shavings. He gives the dish just the right amount of truffle oil, not to overpower it, creating a very satisfying and filling vegetarian dish.

“To me, we bring it back to basics and

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people seem to enjoy the food,” says Parco.

The flour in the pizza dough is from Arva Flour Mills, and he is also supporting his Hyde Park neighbours by bringing Olive-Me olive oils, operated by Missy Haggarty down the road, into his kitchen. He uses her truffle oil with his pasta and also her balsamic vinegar is used on a dessert glaze.

Porcino is a hopping little place that fills up early with people hungry after their day’s work. Service is prompt and the atmosphere is relaxing. Even though it’s been open for less than a year, Parco’s experience is evident, and his ambition undiminished. His goal is to open one or two more Porcinos in London and then a more high-end restaurant. “We are creatures of habit, in this business, “ he chuckles. Thankfully, he has brought his habit to London.

The Patata Pizza (potato slices, rosemary, caramelized onion and gorgonzola crema) and house-marinated mixed olives

Porcino 1700 Hyde Park Road, London 519-641-7777 www.porcino.ca lunch: monday–saturday, 11 am–2 pm dinner: monday–sunday, 4 pm–9 pm JANE ANTONIAK is a regular writer for eatdrink who also lives in west London where she operates Antoniak Communications.

House-made fresh desserts

BRUCE FYFE is a contributing photographer to eatdrink and an assistant librarian at Weldon, Western University.

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kitchen design

NEW!

The Heart(h) of the Home Reflections on Kitchen Design

By SUSAN ORFALD

“B

ack in the day” the kitchen used to be confined to a back room; it was utilitarian, small, and hidden from view — a scullery of sorts. Over the years, the role of the kitchen has expanded considerably. Often referred to as “the heart of the home” it now includes activities previously relegated to other areas of the house, such as the family room, home office, playroom and dining room. It has become a hub of domestic life, a gathering place where stories are shared, recipes developed and memories created. It is a comfortable place to read, study and do

Veteran Kitchen Designer Susan Orfald launches an exciting new column for eatdrink!

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homework, as well as a place to entertain friends, alongside the more functional aspects of cooking, cleaning and storage.

No matter how small the kitchen, it’s the place where people like to be. I often refer to the kitchen as the real “Living Room.”

These changes in the kitchen’s function have affected the role of the dining room.

In the past, formal dining rooms were often reserved for family holidays or special events. I encourage people to utilize their dining space more than a couple of times a year. The current trend is towards opening up the dining area to the kitchen, thereby

The Open Concept Kitchen — the Kitchen and Dining Room become one Featured Kitchen: Cabinetry by Hutton Bielmann Design; Countertops by Classic Granite & Marble; Lighting by Hubbardton Forge

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Consider changes in windows and doors (fenestration) — including size and location — to augment a new design bringing together the experiences of cooking, eating and connecting with others.

Considering Changes

If you are contemplating changing or remodeling your kitchen, there are many aspects you need to take into consideration. No matter what size or shape the room is, a good kitchen design is critical to the function and efficiency of the space. An experienced kitchen designer is a real asset in terms of helping you to create a design that is functional as well as beautiful, has longevity and flexibility, and works for you, while also considering

the home’s resale value. Communication between the homeowner and designer is key to a successful outcome, in terms of budget as well as the finished project.

In my 28 years of designing kitchens, I have found that each space is as unique and individual as the people who use it, and each has its advantages and challenges.

The first meeting with your designer is the time to discuss questions about the spatial and relational dynamics of the individual or individuals that will be utilizing the space. Are there any mobility, special needs or age considerations? Who typically does the cooking? Is there more

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Consider integrating appliances such as the refrigerator and dishwasher in an open concept kitchen

Built-in cabinetry can accommodate storage previously relegated to a buffet or china cabinet

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than one cook in the family? (This often gets a laugh.) Are there children, and if so what ages — and do they like to help in the kitchen? This can also help to determine if there is a requirement for seating at an island area, or an area for homework.

Explain what you like and dislike about your current arrangement and share your ideas for what you envision for your new kitchen. It is helpful (although not essential) to have some images gathered and an idea of the kind of styles you like.

When considering appropriate styles for a space, I take into consideration the age and architecture of the house. I will also inquire about the wish list of appliances and make recommendations on what would work well within the space.

It is important for your designer to understand how you cook, what your storage requirements are, and if there are certain elements you want to incorporate into the design (pantry storage, display space, extra height cabinetry, accessories to integrate, island eating space and desk areas to name a few.) Among other considerations that come into play when designing a kitchen are the rooms that are adjacent to the kitchen, their roles and how the traffic flows. It is essential that thought be given to flooring

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material in terms of function and continuity between rooms.

Lighting is a very important aspect of a good kitchen design. It is another area that has changed, (and will continue to change) with new technologies and innovations.

From ambient, to task, to accent lighting, it takes a lot of experience to know the best lighting application for designated areas.

Location of lighting with reference to the task areas, and working in conjunction with a contractor and electrician are essential elements of the kitchen renovation.

Creating a Plan

Give thought to the timing of both the planning and research of a kitchen renovation, and not just to the executing of the project. Depending on the scope of the work involved, (as well as the ability to make timely decisions), the planning can take from one month to several. If you’re planning a major kitchen renovation (replacing or moving windows, moving walls and doorways, reconfiguring plumbing and electrical, etc.) you may want to consider the

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possibility of cooking outside, or setting up a small interim work area.

Keep in mind that custom cabinetry typically takes between eight to sixteen weeks from order date to installation, depending on the scope of the project.

The more decisions that can be made prior to beginning the de-construction of the existing kitchen, the easier it is on the homeowner. Renovating a kitchen includes many selections, choices and details, and it is best for all involved that such a project flows smoothly, in order to disrupt daily life as minimally as possible.

Time spent planning your kitchen renovation properly pays off in the long run and rewards you with a project that you will enjoy for many years to come.

As a kitchen designer, my greatest satisfaction comes when visiting clients after their project is completed, to hear that they wouldn’t change a thing!

SUSAN ORFALD is an Interior Designer with Hutton Bielmann Design Inc.

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culinary education

Thought for Food The Local Community Food Centre, in Stratford

By DAVID HICKS

T

he Local Community Food Centre in Stratford has become one of two successful pilot projects showcasing the successful contributions of Community Food Centres to the life and soul of communities through food, similar to what public libraries and the YMCA have done for reading and exercise.

When Toronto’s The Stop Community Food Centre received funds to “go national” as Community Food Centres Canada, they searched for partner sites — communities able to establish a template of measurable and sustainable centres that could then be replicated across Canada, forming a nation-wide network. “Stratford was a natural choice,” says Steve Stacey, the Director of the local project. (The other location is Perth, Ontario.)

“Stratford already has an abundance and variety food programs, like Savour Stratford, the annual Pork Congress, the Screaming Avocado at Northwestern [Secondary School], the Stratford Chefs School, and food banks.

The city is manageable in size,

[surrounding] Perth County is rich in agriculture, and Stratford has an unusual level of social cohesion. I knew we would see the desire, appeal and uptake for a food initiative like this.”

Free breakfasts, lunches and dinners build social bonds around shared food that is fresh and nutritious.

The Walkthrough

Located in a vacant farm supply store on Stratford’s west side, the Centre opened in November 2012 after receiving $300,000 for renovations funded by a Trillium Foundation grant, local donations, funds from the City of Stratford, and partnering with Perth-Huron United Way. Much of that money went into purchasing the walk-in fridge and freezer located inside the loading dock to receive large-scale food donations that local food banks are not equipped to handle. “We are a support service to the dozen food programs run by churches and community groups,” says Stacey during a walkthrough. “Because we can receive, store and re-distribute skids of fresher, more Stratford’s Local Community Food Centre opens its facilities to other food and community groups such as the Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival, and Stratford’s Slow Food Market.

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nutritious food, the Centre can help them offer better quality than dry pasta and peanut butter.”

The Centre’s former retail space is now a large multi-function area with dining tables built by a local Mennonite furniture builder. “Our programs are growing, so I have to order more tables,” Stacey smiles.

Kitchen Collaboration

Looking out over the dining area is a large teaching kitchen, with a spacious food prep area, as well as a serving and instruction counter and overhead demonstration mirror. Behind the counter the brushed steel glints on Savour Stratford’s commercial appliances sponsored by GE Café for year-round culinary programming. “Cooking is an important educational aspect of both Savour Stratford and Food Centre programs,” Stacey explains. “Savour was looking for a location for their GE Café appliances, we had the setup, staff and compatible programs to make good use of them — it made collaboration obvious.”

So while Savour Stratford runs highend demonstrations with the likes of Chef Jordan Linley, formerly of Bijou, the Centre offers free public classes such as cooking rice, choosing and preparing fish, and making homemade marmalade. The Local Food Centre’s hands-on kitchen

The Food Centre’s after-school program teaches kids in grades 3 to 6 about food and kitchen basics. work is driven by Chef Jordan Lassaline, a Stratford Chefs School graduate and instructor, and former Sous Chef at The Old Prune.

“We are so fortunate to have an activist chef like Jordan,” says Stacey. “He’s a great educator, loves including people and he has real impact. One lady who made fish pie at a recent class said she had only ever eaten frozen fish sticks and didn’t know what fish actually looked and tasted like. She said, ‘That was great, and now I know how to make it for my family.’”

The Centre’s Director, Steve Stacey (left), works with Chef Jason Lassaline (2nd left), and a multitude of other staff and volunteers at the Centre.

Continued on page 30 ...

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... Continued from page 29

Grow Your Own

Local food maven Liz Mountain oversees the educational programming that includes 50 skid-mounted garden beds in the Centre’s adjoining greenhouse and outdoor lot. “Community gardening is important to the Food Centre model. Last summer we had a group of 15 from L’Arche, Perth Community Family Services, and the Canadian Mental Health Association who planted, tended, harvested, cooked and ate from those beds,” says Stacey. “With the greenhouse, we can work toward our own yearround food production.”

The United Way’s Liz Anderson is the Centre’s Community Activism Coordinator, cultivating peer advocacy and referrals for social services. Dietary and food provision problems facing the working poor and at-risk families are often linked to other struggles, so community-based anti-poverty, affordable housing and employment resources are important elements that Community Food Centres Canada maintains.

The national body is both impressed and delighted with the early results in Stratford, as they work to their goal of 15 centres in five years. “Their CEO, Nick Saul, is out there right now raising millions of dollars across the country,” says Stacey. “While we help the working poor feed their families, it’s really about the community bonds that form around fresh, nutritious food — from planting and growing it, to harvesting and cooking it, serving and sharing it, to collecting and distributing it to others.”

The Local Community Food Centre 612 Erie Street, Stratford 519-508-FOOD (3663) www.thelocalcfc.org DAVID HICKS is a Stratford freelance writer and branding consultant, and sous chef to local pressure cooking expert, Charmaine Hicks.

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farmers & artisans

Farmers Feed Cities and the Fresh From the Field Educational Dinner at Garlic’s of London

By BRYAN LAVERY

F

ounded in 2005, Farmers Feed Cities is committed to increasing the understanding of the value that farmers contribute to Ontario’s economic physical and social health, and ensuring a sustainable future for farmers. Farmers Feed Cities is an initiative of Ontario Grains & Oilseeds — a coalition of Grain Farmers of Ontario, Ontario Bean Producers’ Marketing Board, Ontario Canola Growers’ Association, Ontario Coloured Bean Growers’ Association and Seed Corn Growers of Ontario. Collectively these groups represent more than 28,000 farmers.

Recently, the organization hosted its second educational dinner at Garlic’s restaurant, called Fresh From the Field. Chefs Chad Stewart and Jonathon Fevens collaborated with several local farmers to prepare an evening of spectacular cuisine using their locally-produced ingredients. The event featured a three-course meal: each course accompanied by a thoughtful presentation by the farmer who grew the food being served.

The farmers talked eloquently about animal husbandry, ethics and animal welfare at their individual farms. Among them was Lyle Renecker and his wife Teresa, who raise quality Ontario purebred elk on their heritage

farm near Stratford. In response to venison’s resurging popularity, the Reneckers’ sell directly to clients at the Stratford Farmers Market on Saturdays.

Don Donaldson, of Ever­ spring Farms, raises and processes ducks — which I have heard him describe as “alternative poultry” — just north of London.

Ducks and geese have been a passion at Everspring Farms for over 20 years. Farmers/founders Dale and Marianne Donaldson started the operation as a hobby with a flock of 200 geese in 1985. Today, Everspring has an alliance with a network of breeder farms and growing operations to produce geese and ducks of several breeds in a natural yet bio-secure environment.

Dianne McComb, a third genera­ tion egg farmer from Lucan (and whose family supplied my former restaurant with eggs for a decade), talked about the science of chicken and egg farming and provided guests with many insights and interesting facts. Did you know that

â„– 40 | March/April 2013

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№ 40 | March/April 2013

Garlic’s of London Chefs Joshua Fevens and Chad Stewart present the C’est Bon Chèvre & Potato Gnocchi

weight determines whether eggs are graded as medium, large or extra-large? Typically, it takes 3 to 7 days for eggs to get from “farm to table.”

My dining companion and I shared dinner and conversation with cheese-maker George Taylor, from C’est Bon Cheese just outside St. Marys. After retiring from a career in television, Taylor famously swapped a flock of sheep for a herd of Toggenburg and La Mancha goats, and began crafting cheese by hand, using only the milk from his own herd to create a handful of cheese varieties including chèvre. Today, C’est Bon Chèvre is a well-known and respected family-run, micro-dairy known as Transvaal Farm.”

The evening started with a vanilla-honey martini made with Garlic’s rooftop honey.

The farm-to-table menu consisted of a choice of three appetizers: a delicious bisque made of slow roasted garlic (from Sun and Wind Farm) and onions; or Slegers’ greens roasted Portobello with C’est Bon blue cheese crou­ ton, smoked bacon and marrow vinaigrette; or whole roasted Sun and Wind garlic with tomato chutney and baguette chips.

Main course choices included: Renecker Farm’s rich and hearty elk osso bucco with slow roasted root vegetables, russet potato purée, and Ontario red wine reduction; or Everspring Farm’s duck leg confit with

squash and sage risotto, bacon mulch and spiced pear compote; or C’est Bon chèvre potato gnocchi, marinated mushroom, local sweet potato and roasted cherry tomato.

The dessert offering was a Bosc pear and Ontario rhubarb stew with McComb Farms eggs, vanilla custard and cinnamon tuille.

The evening was a both a culinary and educational success. On one level it reminded all of us that the Farmers Feed Cities campaign helps forge strong links between farm and non-farm families by

Garlic’s of London Owner Edo Pelhij (left) and staff hostess with Farmers Feed Cities Campaign Coordinator Jenny Van Rooy (right) talking about the things we all have in common — enjoying the benefits that we receive from a healthy agriculture sector. On another level it encouraged us to embrace products that are locally conceived, locally controlled and as rich in local content as the distinctive terroir and time-honoured ways of preparing them of any given area.

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large.

The Seneca Lake Wine Trail near Atwater Estate Vineyards Sun and Wind Farm’s Whole Roasted Garlic with tomato chutney and baguette chips

Renecker Farm’s Elk Osso Bucco with root vegetables, potato purée, and Ontario red wine reduction

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The BUZZ ... new and notable

T

he proposal to host the 2013 World Figure Skating Championships event was put forward by Tourism London on behalf of the City of London, and Tourism’s hospitality partners. For the local community, and our culinary community in particular, who will be an important part of the festivities, it will be an opportunity to showcase our distinctive culinary professionals.

The annual event moves around the globe, attracting more than 50,000 spectators and showcasing 165 skaters from over 40 countries. It is anticipated that over 500 media representatives will be present. Approximately 500 volunteers have been recruited to ensure that the programme runs smoothly and successfully. This will be the first sporting event held in downtown London to be televised around the world (to 160 million viewers in roughly sixty countries). The 2013 Local Flavour Culinary Guide showcasing London’s best restaurants and highlighting unique culinary retailers, markets and festivals, has been released in plenty of time to be in full circulation well before the event.

Downtown London is hosting a welcome centre at 123 King Street for the duration of the championships. They are

a downtown resource for everyone, so feel free to stop by from 9am–11pm, if you have any questions during the event.

Tourism London will also have several concierge stations set up around the city to welcome guests.

The festivities don’t end on the ice. Through the Light Up London initiative and on-site Fan Festival, the entire London community will be engaged in a full week of celebrations. London Arts Council and London Heritage Council are booking a variety of local entertainers — an eclectic mix of multicultural talents, geared towards the programming happening inside the tent at the Covent Garden Market and outside at Budweiser Gardens.

Jess Jazey-Spoelstra is pleased to announce that The River Room (www.theriverroom.ca) which normally closes to the public at 4pm, will be open for dinner during the competition. Several downtown restaurants, like The Only On King (www.theonlyonking.ca ) and Kantina (www. kantina.ca), will similarly expand their service hours and offer lunch during the World Figure Skating Championships.

Multicultural “gourmet street food” food trucks are trending. They’ve been building in popularity thanks to food shows, farmers’ markets and culinary events across

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A Taste of Europe since 1974 Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre The Marienbad provides the perfect atmosphere for the “Crime of Your Life!” as you enjoy a delicious prix-fixe 3-course meal in the circa 1854 fireplace-lit dining room. $39.99 per person includes the performance from ow!

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122 Carling Street (at Talbot, around the corner from Budweiser Gardens) Open Daily for Dinner 519-679-9940 Lunch Monday-Saturday www.marienbad.ca

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London’s Celebration Destination VOTED Best Fine Dining & Most Romantic Restaurant

North America. In London, the food truck phenomenon is just emerging. Food trucks serve a variety of tasty treats and ethnic foods. They are positioned to incubate new businesses and become an alternative launching pad for healthy, creative food. Food Truck Eats in Stratford, in coordination with Ontario Food Trucks, came to Stratford market square last year. The event saw gourmet food trucks from GTA alongside local chefs with their own pop-up food stalls for the day. The food items presented were authentic, street food-inspired dishes that also featured Perth County farmers and producers.

According to our sources, Fire Roasted Coffee wants to work with community partners and launch a food truck this summer, selling fair trade coffee, ethically-sourced chocolate and cold beverages. The truck would be stationed at predetermined locations on weekdays and travel to special events on evenings and weekends.. We like food trucks because they stimulate ­culinary innovation, draw culinary tourists, provide e­ mployment, and contribute revenue to the city’s coffers. They can offer a valuable service to Londoners, and help stimulate our neighborhoods. We believe they are destined to become an important part of the social fabric of the city.

Speaking of Fire Roasted Coffee, uber-entrepreneur owner Dave Cook is opening a flagship store at the corner of King and Talbot Street (kitty-corner from the Covent Garden Market). The building will house both a Fire Roasted coffee roastery and café as well as a Habitual Chocolate microfacility to produce a variety of hand-crafted, single-origin chocolates that it retails by the bar and in drinking chocolate form. In addition, they make a full line of fine confectionery from their chocolate.

Culinary tourists spend more, stay longer and they keep coming back. That was the message Rebecca LeHeup, executive director, of the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance gave to participants of the EDCO conference in February. LeHeup said culinary tourists tend to have a higher disposable income and are more likely to visit other tourist attractions. LeHeup said local food should be identified whenever possible on menus but restaurateurs and retailers must be honest because culinary tourists are sophisticated.

The once dazzling Blue Ginger, a perennial CAA Four Diamond award winner in its heyday, has closed and the Richmond Row building is for sale.

London Free Press Readers

& Best Restaurant Atmosphere

London Community News Readers

Lunch Weekdays Dinner 7 Nights a Week

1 York Street

(just West of Ridout) Baby Grand Pianist 6 Nights a Week Ample Free Parking with Reservations

www.michaelsonthethames.com • 519-672-0111

Mathew “Matt” McKenzie, who has a loyal and devoted following from his days at Waldo’s on King, has been promoted to general manager of the blu duby.

Deb Denton, everyone’s favourite bartender, has left the UpFront at the Market where she has been a welcoming presence and familiar face behind the bar through all its incarnations in the last 13 years.

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Windermere Manor’s Executive Chef Kristain Crossen built a stellar culinary reputation at the late lamented Braise Food and Wine, at Carter’s on Downie in Stratford and at Langdon Hall, with his sustainable culinary philosophy, and farm-to-table sensibility.

Chef and his culinary team showcase a selection of “old favourites,” signature ingredients, and taste experiences that change to take advantage of the seasons on his new menus. www.windermeremanor.com A must-see culinary heritage destination is located on the city’s edge. The Arva Flour Mill has been operating since 1819. Mike Mathews is the fourth generation of his family to be involved with the business. Purveyors of high quality whole wheat, unbleached, pastry and organic flours, the historic mill still uses water power from Medway Creek. The newest addition to the Mill District is The Millhouse, which offers a variety of other related products such as natural and organic frozen meats, local cheeses, wheat grass and barley grass juice, gourmet oils, sauces and preserves. 2042 Elgin (off Richmond), Arva www.arvaflourmill.com We have lots of great Mexican and El Salvadorian food in the city for take-out and casual eating. Try Londombia, Los Comales, Su Casa, El Ranchito, Mexi-Cactus, Lo Nuestro and True Taco. Luis Rivas’ new restaurant, True Taco Authentic Comedor Latino, is expected to open in late March/early April across the street from his existing premises on Dundas Street.

Featuring specialty foods, kitchenwares, tablewares, cooking classes & gift baskets.

115 King Street, London

519-645-1335 www.jillstable.ca

Dagmar Wendt and Rueben Vega’s Under the Volcano has been serving fresh Mexican-inspired cooking for over 35 years. They are now moving into the building formerly occupied by the Cityview Restaurant at the intersection of Wharncliffe Road and Riverside Drive. The restaurant is expected to open in early March. Volcano’s motto is “from mild to wild.” 30 Wharncliffe Road North www. underthevolcano.co Gabriel Sepulvelda, a native of Chile, opened the Latin-American inspired Mas Café in downtown London in mid-December. Mas Café sources its ingredients locally including its butcher products which come from Mennonite farmers. The Pork or Beef Milanesa (breaded and fried cutlet sandwich) alone is worth the visit. Delicious empanadas are stuffed with a variety of traditional fillings and churros. A delicious fried choux paste doughnut is made-to-order and filled with manjar de leche.

Paramount Fine Foods is the”go to” place for authentic, marché-style Halal and Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine. The bakery produces fresh baked pita, and on the menu are items such as shawarma, falafel, tabbouleh, shish tawouk and the specialty charbroiled chicken and beef. Also on offer is a full line of hand rolled, house made

ALWAYS a 3-course prix fixe menu option

432 Richmond St. at Carling • London www.davidsbistro.ca www.davidsbistro.ca

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Arabic sweets and pastries. 769 Southdale Road East (at Adelaide) www.paramountfinefoods.com Bringing GREECE to London for over 38 years!

“A sacred place where we celebrate life and each other with joy, warmth, good food and drink.”

Garden Patio Open Daily We Host Parties — from 8 to 80 We Know How!

BEST GREEK RESTAURANT MYKONOS

572 Adelaide Street, London 519-434-6736

www.mykonosrestaurant.ca

Mon−Sat 11am to 10pm Sunday 11am to 9pm

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed Ethiopian cuisine ...”

— Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine

• Vegetarian Options • Takeout • Catering

Reservations •Recommended

ADDIS ABABA Restaurant Tues–Sat Noon–1pm • Sunday from 2pm

465 Dundas Street 519 433-4222 www.tgsaddisababarestaurant.com

The new kid on the block, Lee Chul Wha, is serving delicious versions of bibimbap and bulgogi. His Korean House continues to get great word-of-mouth. 170 Adelaide St. N (at Hamilton Road) The Meatless Market is London’s only retailer of graband-go prepared foods geared exclusively to vegetarians.

Owner Paul Gagliardi says the shop carries a wide selection of products, including fresh and frozen vegetarian and vegan entrees, the store’s own private label meal kits and prepared meals. Many of the selections are suitable for gluten-free diets. (1350 Fanshawe Park Rd. W. near Hyde Park Road) www.themeatlessmarket.com Trichilo’s Ristorante will be hosting their semi-annual wine tasting dinner on Wednesday April 10th. The Italianthemed, four-course menu with wine pairings by Chef Rick Knechtel, is always an entertaining and educational night for small groups and fun for couples. Book ahead as seats are limited. $75.00 per person. www.trichilos.ca A Meet and Greet will be held on Friday April 26th, with Chef Michael Smith, showcasing exceptional food and drink provided by local London restaurants including Fire Roasted Coffee, Habitual Chocolate, Fanshawe College, The Morrissey House, Milos’ Beer Emporium, The Bag Lady, The Springs, The Early Bird and Kantina. Tickets are $100 with proceeds going to support Bethany’s Hope.

GCW Custom Kitchens first met Chef Michael Smith through the 2008 Bethany’s Hope Foundation Dinner.

In the years since, their relationship has grown as Smith jumped in to help grow the Bethany’s Hope Foundation dinners, which this year is called Chef Michael’s Kitchen Party. More recently, GCW took on the creation of Smith’s dream home/TV kitchen and its installation in Prince Edward Island. Throughout, GCW has appreciated Smith’s genuine, down-to-earth manner, and Smith is now a spokesperson for GCW Custom Kitchens and fully endorses the company. This year the Bethany’s Hope Foundation Dinner on Saturday April 27th includes a fabulous oyster bar. Tickets are $200. Contact Lindey McIntyre at 519-8584673 www.bethanyshope.org Forest City Distribution has been renamed Forest City Fine Foods, Cheese & Beverage. They are offering a diverse product mix, including locally made artisan cheeses and other related dairy products. New products include niche beverages, natural and organic grocery items, and expanded food service offerings. They have changed their website to www.forestcityfinefoods.com .

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London is getting its own craft brewery as Forked River Brewing will soon start making suds here. Craft beer maker David Reed, an engineer by trade, is starting the business with Steve Nazarian and Andrew Peters, both microbiologists. The 3,000-square-foot brewery on Pacific Court will boast natural beer without preservatives and will not be pasteurized. It is expected to hit some local pubs and restaurants this spring. www.forkedriverbrewing.com

Your love of all things Italian begins at

The Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market , along with the help of some very talented local bakers, chefs and artisans of all types, from London and Stratford, will be celebrating all things maple with a specially created “Maple at the Market” programme featuring Kinehdn Maple Sugar Company’s award- winning syrup, throughout the month of March. There will also be hand-crafted maple wood products, soaps, candles and beauty products like The Meadow’s Maple Sugar Scrub and Maple Bud Cream.

Cheesemaker Ruth Klahsen has confirmed that Monforte Dairy is opening a restaurant in downtown Stratford.

Monforte on Wellington is expected to open in early April, serving a selection of charcuterie, homemade preserves, pickles, cheese, Ontario beers and wines, and one or two daily changing pasta dishes prepared by Chef Phil Philips.

Philip’s worked in the kitchen at Bijou and has trained under Jamie Kennedy. There will also be a small area attached to the restaurant, selling meats, cheeses, and jarred goods. www.monfortedairy.com Tara Ott, founder of feed your body is a Registered Holistic Nutritionist who has studied at George Brown College, and with Caroline Dupont, on the art of raw food. Feed your body offers a unique personal chef service designed for people with food sensitivities and/or busy lifestyles. Tara also has a booth at the Covent Garden Farmers’ Market in London on Saturdays, May through November, and at the Slow Food Market in Stratford all year round. Her focus here is on gluten-free, vegan and raw. www.feedyourbody.ca Savour Stratford Perth County GE Café Chefs Series: Chef Tim Larsen, Mercer Hall Resto, Stratford, March 3; Chef Ryan Crawford, Gastrohomestead, Niagara, April 14; Chef Rob Rossi, Bestellen, Toronto April 21; Join great Ontario chefs in a 3-hour cooking class in Stratford’s new GE Café Kitchen. Enjoy the dishes you create with a wine/beer pairing and take home recipes!

11 am–2 pm Local Community Food Centre, 612 Erie St., Stratford. $75 (+HST +handling fee) or save and register for 3 classes for only $210. 519-271-5140 www. visitstratford.ca/gechefs

Now Open!

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Days a Week

FEATURING local natural & organic meats wild-caught salmon & seafood local free range poultry local cheeses & deli meats gourmet oils, sauces & preserves

2042 Elgin St, Arva ON

“Just 3km North of Masonville” MILLHOUSE: 519-601-6456 MILL STORE: 519-660-0199 www.arvaflourmill.com

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A Strathroy Tradition • Fabulous Sunday Brunch • Family Dinners • Fully Licensed by LLBO • Banquet & Wedding Packages Available • Take-Out & Delivery Available (ask for details) • Family Owned & Operated

Private Meeting & Banquet Rooms for groups up to 100 28537 Centre Road, Strathroy just off Hwy 402 @ Hwy 81 & Second St.

519-245-5400

www.amys-restaurant.com

Savour Stratford Tasting — Food Photography 101: You First Eat With Your Eyes. Professional photographer (boasting a cover photo on Canadian Geographic) and Stratford Chefs School graduate Terry Manzo leads an engaging afternoon exploring the art of food photography using pocket devices, phones and tablets. Bring your photo device for hands-on practice and become the best food photographer you know before sampling your tasty subjects. March 9, 3pm–4:30pm Cost: $20 (plus HST) Mercer Hall, 108 Ontario Street, Stratford. www.visitstratford.ca/tastings Stratford Chefs School’s March Break Culinary Camp for students, and now for adults, too, March 11-15! Recreate recipes and menus from kitchens around the world in hands-on learning directed by some of the best trained chefs in the industry. Register for a day or for the whole week. www.stratfordchef.com Create Your Own Signature Dish: Cooking Beyond the Recipe with Chef Ryan O’Donnell — March 17 and 24 at Your Local Market Co-op, 129 Downie Street, Stratford. For the intermediate home cook interested in growing their comfort level with improving a meal or creating a restaurant-style dish of their own, the twopart class will involve lessons in first conceptualizing and then cooking a dish using seasonal produce. Free. www. yourlocalmarketcoop.com Savour Stratford Tasting: Beer & Cheese of the British Isles. Compare the distinct flavours of English, Irish, Scottish and Welsh cheese paired with beer from the same regions.

Savour extraordinary pairings on March 30 at The Milky Whey Fine Cheese Shop www.themilkywhey.ca Stratford’s The Parlour is offering a selection of unique small plates to share every Friday night during March from 5–8pm. Every week is unique! www.theparlour.ca Slow Food Perth County Sunday Market has a new indoor location, The Local Community Food Centre, 612 Erie Street, Stratford. Shop from producers practicing good, clean and fair principles at this wonderful new facility. 10 am–2 pm through until May 1 when the market moves to Market Square at City Hall. www. slowfoodperthcounty.ca Thursday night at Mercer Hall it’s Champagne and ­O ysters! Satisfy your oyster craving with $2 oysters and enjoy a lovely sparkling wine by the glass or bottle. www.mercerhall.com Join the crew at Molly Blooms Stratford on a Thursday or Saturday for great specials and live entertainment including: Bill Craig, Mob Barley and Dan Stacey.

Thursdays Molly Blooms features their famous All Day Steak Special. www.mollybloomsstratford.com

www.eatdrink.ca

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Foster’s Inn offers a wide selection of Winter Enticers: $5 daily breakfasts, Sammy & Side lunches for $9.99, weekday Lounge Lover 5 Appetizers @ $5 each after 5pm, and different dinner specials Sunday–Thursday through March. www.fostersinn.com Foster’s Inn Winter Concert Series: Russell deCarle March 7, Jack de Keyzer March 21, Emma Lee April 4 and Stephen Fearing April 18. Dinner and concert $45. Dinner, concert and accommodation only $99 (based on double occupancy). www.fostersinn.com The popular winter bistro dinner menu is back at Keystone Alley Café, 34 Brunswick St., Stratford. Enjoy two courses for $24.95 or three courses for $31.95. www.keystonealley.com

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Roasts | Chops & Steaks | Tenderloin | Ribs | Sausage | Bacon & More!

Stratford Salutes Spring at the annual Swan Parade weekend, April 6 -7. Restaurants offer weekend brunch specials, Swan Quest and free carriage rides in downtown. Sunday swan parade and family festivities along Lakeside Drive at William Allman Arena. www. visitstratford.ca/swans Savour Stratford Maple Trail celebrates the taste of Ontario’s first crop of the season. Enjoy a self-guided taste of maple delights at various food shops and restaurants beginning this spring. www.visitstratford.ca/mapletrail.

Savour Stratford Bacon and Ale and Chocolate Trails are available year round .

Stratford Farmers’ Market, in operation since 1855, is open year round. Fresh produce, crafts, meat and cheese. Stratford Rotary Complex-Agriplex, 353 McCarthy Rd., Stratford. Saturdays 7 am - 12 pm. www. stratfordfairgrounds.com

Our readers want to know, so send us info about culinary events, fundraisers, and regional news. With BUZZ in the Subject line, send to: editor@eatdrink.ca.

For a truly home grown, tasty & traditional Easter!

See Us at the Women’s Lifestyle Show!

Environmentally raised, CQA® Certified, gluten-free, MSG-free, vacuum packed, custom cut, freshly frozen

Online ordering with FREE DELIVERY

www.thewholepig.ca OR Phone Orders: 519-851-3327

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caterers

The Art of Polish Cooking Modern Twists on Old World-Style Catering, in London By bryan Lavery

A

part from iconic dishes, generally perceived as heritage, national or “Polish,” we can also find many delicacies characteristic of particular regions of Poland. Polish cookery is hearty, using lots of eggs and cream, sharing simi­lar­ities with other European traditions. It is rich in meat, especially pork, chicken and beef, and winter

vegetables (potatoes are a mainstay, beets in borsch and cabbage in the dish bigos, and lots of spice. The cuisine owes its flavour profile to dill, caraway, paprika, poppy seed, marjoram and pepper.

In recent years, innovative chefs have begun to experiment with, and promote, the use of Polish ingredients in modern regional variations.

Unique Food Attitudes Barbara Czyz (pronounced Cush) has operated Unique Food Attitudes as a catering business for 17 years. Her chic storefront bistro in the Old East Village has been an instant success due to its modern European sensibility, changing chalkboard

Barbara Czyz of Unique Food Attitudes

menu offerings, fabulous food, and warm and attentive vibe.

Last year, she moved her operations from industrial south London to a vacant building at 607 Dundas Street, near Lyle Street. Czyz purchased the property for a reasonable price, hired a contractor to complete renova­ tions and had enough space to embark on her longstanding dream — a stylish bistro serving both traditional and contem­ porary Pol­ ish cuisine.

Photo by Derek Ruttan/ The London Free Press /QMI Agency

№ 40 | March/April 2013

The bistro, with its black slate counters, chrome accents, comfortable seating and sidewalk tables with umbrellas, continues to draw clients from all over the city.

House specialties include Goulash and potato pancakes, Krokiety (crepes) and red borsch made from beets, bigos (sauerkraut-mushroom-meat stew), slowcooked cabbage rolls and tender peirogi with a variety of sweet and savoury fill­ ings. One day our charming and hospi­ table server Beata recommended the Sza­ vlotka (delicious apple cake) and we have been converts to Czyz’s baking since.

Along the way, Czyz has built a reputation for wedding and holiday cakes, including her handmade Krokettas and Schlegye that remind her European clientele of their homelands.

Czyz and her husband, Jaroslaw (Jarek), immigrated to London from Poland via Greece in 1989. After Czyz graduated from Fanshawe College’s Culinary Management course in 1996, she and two classmates formed a catering company.

One partner left after six months and the other after two years, leaving Czyz as the sole proprietor. Unique Food Attitudes moved into a different stratosphere when Czyz signed exclusive catering contracts with Delta Emco and Trojan Technologies, where she would also operate their employee cafeterias.

A staunch member of the Polish community, Czyz continues to support many community events and ceremonies.

She can often be found in the restaurant late into the evening and on weekends, cooking, baking, chopping, serving and greeting her clients. Her son Matt, who is a jack-of-all-trades, and daughter Patrycja, when home from university, are often on hand in the restaurant.

Unique Food Attitudes 697 Dundas Street, London monday to wednesday 9am–6 pm thursday to saturday 9am–8pm www.uniquefoodattitudes.ca 519-649-2225

TWICE AS NICE!

Two Big Events — Double the Fun

Studio Tour 20th Anniversary Exhibition The Art Exchange, 247 Wortley Road March 5 to 23 www.theartexchange.ca

London Artists’ Studio Tour 2013 April 12, 13 & 14

www.londonstudiotour.com Contact: Beth Stewart 519 668-6743

Bonnie’s ‘Tole’ House Unique Handpainted Gifts

Visit Our Display Table Saturdays!

Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market

Hand-painted glassware, plates, coffee mugs, flower vases, wood trays, small tables and handmade jewellery

Continued next page ...

london: 519-951-1777 www.bonniestolehouse.ca

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№ 40 | March/April 2013

Café Bourgeois The kitschy charm of this boutique operation at Western Fair Farmers and Artisans’ Market would give it credence, even if its raison d’être weren’t suggested in its name. This is healthy catering and gourmet-to-go from the Polish-French culinary tradition. Originally known to market-goers as “The Cabbage Roll Lady,” Mary Ann Wrona grew up eating from the family garden.

Wrona’s Belgian mother had a vast repertoire of braised and steamed vegetables. It has been said that Belgium serves food of French quality in German quantities. Wrona personifies this claim selling many of her specialties by the pound.

Wrona is known for preparing high end vegetarian specialities and modern European cuisine in her tiny café at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market. Signature dishes include peppers stuffed with a variety of fillings, traditional and vegetarian cabbage rolls, silky crepes, pottage and a variation of surprising slaws and seasonal salads.

Wrona’s signature queen-sized potato stuffed perogies, made with a thicker than usual, dairy-free dough that gives it more of a “chew” and fries to a golden brown.

Wrona’s signature Pig and Whistle (whose implication remains somewhat speculative) is her take on a “larger than life” spring roll with lean ground pork, sauerkraut-cabbage combo, chili and garlic.

All her meats are local butcher products.

A proponent of farm-to-table cuisine, in season, Wrona handpicks many of her own

Mary Ann Wrona of Café Bourgeois

Photo by Steve Grimes

vegetables from the Quaker farms that surround her Elgin County home. In season, Wrona refers, rightly, to Elgin County as the Tuscany of Ontario. Watch for Wrona’s Chocolate Sauerkraut Cake.

Café Bourgeois Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market saturdays 8am–3pm 519-775-9917

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Kleibers Delicatessen Owner Anna Turkiewicz is a wellknown caterer and for the last fifteen years, owner of Kleiber’s , an oldschool deli that has been a Covent Garden Market mainstay since it opened in 1940. Turkiewicz has built an excellent reputation for friendly, personal service and for carrying a large selection of high- quality European delicatessen and gourmet products. Well- known to the downtown lunch crowd, for whom Turkiewicz prepares her signature soups, cabbage rolls, schnitzels and sausages for take-away, she is also a caterer. Who can say no her classic chicken and beef dishes served daily with salad and mashed potatoes?

This is the kind of home cooking Turkiewicz enjoyed growing up, and later as a cook and dietician in Czestochowa, Poland, where she met her husband, Andrzej, also a professional cook. Kleiber’s corner stall is where you can locate hard to find chestnut purée, quince jam, mustard, holiday confectionery and imported chocolate. There are often line-ups that attest to the popularity of Kleiber’s selection. Turkiewicz is also the cook at London’s Polish-Canadian Club and the German-Canadian Club where she runs Anna’s Catering.

Kleibers Delicatessen Covent Garden Market monday to friday 8am–7pm saturday 8am–6pm sunday 11am–4pm 519-495-7753

Anna Turkiewicz of Kleibers Delicatessen Photo by Steve Grimes

BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known chef, culinary activist, Farmers’ Market Manager and writer. Mr. Lavery has spent many years in teaching, consulting, and advisory roles with various culinary initiatives.

Tasting Room Open Daily

exceptional certified & lab-tested extra virgin olive oil & premium balsamic vinegars ion inaitasts!” t s e s y d hu inar ent cul food t c e or perf ce f “thxeperien COO (Chief Olive Officer) Missy Haggerty e

Come In and Sample!

1570 Hyde Park Rd ¡ Unit #7 ¡ London 519-471-OLIV (6548) www.olivemeco.com

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travel

A Distinctive Culinary Scene What Sets Kingston Ontario Apart

By BRYAN LAVERY

W

ith a diversity of annual festivals and events yearround, Kingston is known to celebrate its renowned culinary culture. In downtown Kingston history comes alive in the architecture and distinguished limestone buildings that have been preserved and enhanced and now house numerous stylish cafes and unique restaurants. The downtown has over 100 restaurants in a nine block area. In fact, I have been told there are more restaurants per capita than anywhere else in Canada.

A get-away to Kingston is made all the more appealing and relaxing when you stay at innkeeper Holly Doughty’s welcoming Rosemount Inn and Spa, an 1850’s Tuscanstyle villa located in the heart of downtown.

The Rosemount is the personification of hospitality and comfort. Flare magazine once referred to the Rosemount Inn as the

An evening on the Chez Piggy patio

Rosemount Inn & Spa “best B&B experience in Canada.” The inn’s eleven rooms and chalet-style coach house, all with ensuite baths and comfortable beds, are well-appointed with period antiques, decorative castings and arched, leaded windows; the paths and driveway are paved in tumbled stone, and a restored ornate cast iron fence on limestone base frames the villa and gardens.

A gourmet breakfast at Rosemount Inn might comprise a selection of fresh fruit, salad and fluffy omelette, or seasonallyinspired quiche. The signature house speciality of Welsh toast with fresh berries, warmed local maple syrup and crème fraîche will help fortify you while discovering the nearby 1000 Islands and Kingston’s many cultural venues. Doughty and her attentive team also serve an afternoon tea in the dazzling front parlour.

In the summer, Kingston by Fork offers two culinary walking tours, or they will customize one for twelve participants or more. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, to coincide with the days that the Market Square open-air market is open, (established in 1801, it is the oldest continuous market in Canada) it guides guests on a tour of the market and a few other local venues, culminating in a threecourse lunch at Aquaterra Restaubistro.

This is called the Homegrown Eats Tour.

The other tour on offer is An Edible

www.eatdrink.ca

№ 40 | March/April 2013

Rosemount Inn owner Holly Doughty (and her dog Kate) greet guests from the porch of the Tuscan-style villa in the heart of Downtown Kingston

Escapade; participants enjoy a tasting tour of seven downtown establishments and learn about their commitment to sourcing local ingredients.

What draws us to Le Chien Noir (besides a glowing recommendation from Holly Doughty) is its idiosyncratic take on farmto-table cuisine, as well as a sturdy list of VQA wines, many from nearby Prince Edward County. Located steps from Kingston’s historic Market Square and just a few blocks from the waterfront, the restaurant is located on the Brock Street Common that has been an established commercial area since the 1820’s. Le Chien Noir is situated in a stylishly refurbished and renovated Victorian site. A diverse clientele frequents this vibrant, engaging and comfortable restaurant with faux tin ceiling, retro art deco lighting fixtures,

Market Square

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Le Chien Noir exposed brick walls, wood surfaces and mirrored accents. A focal point is the long and spacious zinc bar at the entrance, with large crystal chandeliers.

Le Chien’s chef, Derek MacGregor, has a reputation for referencing both the local ­terroir and the quintessence of French county fare for inspiration.

MacGregor is a proponent of King­ston’s Local Food–Local Chefs’ initiative, which raises awareness of regional ingredients, products, producers and farm-to-table chefs in the area.

Kingston is also home to the well-known Luke’s Gastronomy; Luke Hayes-Alexander started cooking at 11, asked for a suckling

Chez Piggy pig to butcher at 12, and at 15 he became the chef of his family’s restaurant and took the menu into unchartered and avant-garde terrain. Food writers began referring to Hayes-Alexander as a culinary wizard and virtuoso, mature beyond his years. Luke’s Gastronomy, serving mostly miniscule but artistic creations, is sure to be an unconventional culinary experience. Visit this downtown restaurant with an openmind and ignore the decor. Reservations are absolutely necessary.

Over three decades ago, Rose Richardson and the late Zal Yanovsky (formerly of the rock band, “The Lovin’ Spoonful”) restored

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an abandoned limestone livery stable, tucked away behind old brick buildings off a quaint courtyard, and launched the iconic Chez Piggy, a dining experience that helped make Kingston a culinary destination. “The Pig,” as it is known locally, plus its nearby bakery, Pan Chancho, with its hospitable staff attracts an enduring, faithful clientele.

No visit to downtown Kingston would be

Luke’s Gastronomy complete without a visit to Cooke’s, a local culinary landmark. Cooke’s is a gourmet food specialty shop and coffee roastery, founded in 1865, it retains its old world ambience with original wooden counters and pressed metal ceiling.

Close by, Prince Edward County makes for a perfect day trip. Travellers from Kingston can access Prince Edward County by way of the Glenora Ferry on picturesque Highway 33 East. A stunning island adventure, Prince Edward County is a mecca for artists, nature enthusiasts, wine lovers and culinary tourists.

Rosemount Inn & Spa, 46 Sydenham Street South, Kingston, ON 613-531-8844 www.rosemountinn.com Le Chien Noir, 69 Brock St, Kingston ON 613-549-5635 www.lechiennoir.com Luke’s Gastronomy, 264 Princess St, Kingston, ON 613-531-7745 www.lukesgastronomy.com Chez Piggy, 68R Princess St, Kingston ON 613-549-7673 www.chezpiggy.com BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known chef, culinary activist, Farmers’ Market Manager and writer. Mr. Lavery has spent many years in teaching, consulting, and advisory roles with various culinary initiatives.

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№ 40 | March/April 2013

MICHAEL’S

CHEF

KITCHEN PARTY Saturday,

April 27, 2013 London Convention Centre

Tickets & information please contact:

Lindey McIntyre

519. 858.4673 (hope) www.bethanyshope.org

Tickets only

$200.00

an interactive Musical Evening of...

FOOD FRIENDS FLAVOURS and

Chastity Fizzard

Mark Haines

Our Special Local Restaurant “Partners in Hope” Carolinian Winery & Eatery Fanshawe College Habitual Chocolate Kantina Cafe & Restaurant Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium Olive-Me & Co.

The Bag Lady The Early Bird The Fire Roasted Coffee Co. The Morrissey House The Savvy Chef The Springs Restaurant

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№ 40 | March/April 2013

Beer matters beer matters

Beer Pairings

By Bruce Fyfe

I

’m a person who doesn’t normally opt for a bottle of wine at dinner. That’s because I’d rather have a beer — a really good beer — when I go out. Thankfully, there are more craft and imported brews available than ever before, and I can pair almost any food with a perfectly delicious pint.

In fact, if the right information is available, I can pair beers with my meals just as easily as the wine connoisseur. Sometimes, however, getting that information can be a challenge.

Who hasn’t walked into an establishment and upon enquiring about options gets a somewhat disjointed list of offerings, accompanied by fre­ quent glances back at the draft taps just to make sure something wasn’t missed? Having worked in the service industry for most of my career, I have come to the conclusion that getting the small things right and insuring that the patron has a consistent experience is paramount.

In many London establishments I have been delighted to find this to be the case. Owners are more deliberate with their choice of offerings, and servers are more knowledgeable than ever.

If I’m eating something light I will opt for a lighter beer, like Denison’s Dunkel Weiss.

A light crisp lager like Mill Street Organic pairs well with seafood, while a hoppy F&M Stonehammer Pilsner would be a great coun­ terpoint to a cheese-laden pizza.

If I want something a little more robust to accompany a hearty bison burger, while sit­ ting with friends at the pub, I would choose

The Malt Monk will return next issue.

Thanks to our intrepid photographer and beer enthusiast Bruce Fyfe for sitting in on this session!

the dark hazelnut brown Wellington County Dark Ale, or the amber-hued Iron Duke. The Wellington County Dark Ale, a mainstay of the draft lineup at Western’s Grad Club, is smooth and crisp with a very slight hint of chocolate. The Iron Duke is an excellent strong ale, crafted in the style of Innis and Gunn, that works exceptionally well with grilled pork.

At the full-bodied end of the scale, a favourite is St. Ambroise Oatmeal Stout, available at Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium, paired with braised beef cheeks is. Likewise, with desserts and especially chocolate, this stout from McAuslan provides a creamy end to the meal, with its toasted malts and coffee flavour.

Pairing beers with seasonal offerings also enhances the dining experience. In the summer I see myself at M.E. & Suzie’s in Port Stanley enjoying a Railway City Ironspike Blond Ale with fresh perch and crispy fries. In the winter a heavier dish like braised lamb shanks would overwhelm a pilsner, so I would lean toward a deep brown Black Oak Nutcracker Porter with its hint of cinnamon and nutmeg, or perhaps a Mill Street Cobblestone Stout.

As with seasonal fare, spicy foods are much

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better when paired with certain beers. A spicy curry goes exceptionally well with an India Pale Ale. Hops & Robbers, from the Double Trouble Brewing Company in Guelph is a very good hoppy IPA, that also pairs well with Mexican foods.

A nice thing about pairing is the experimen­ tation. Sample and sample again. Balance is probably the most important concept. Robust dishes work best with strongly flavoured beers, while subtle food flavours work best with more delicate beers. If you are a novice to craft and imported beers and unsure about what works best, start on the lighter end of the spectrum and work your way up. I enjoyed a wonder­ ful and light Fruli Strawberry Wheat, a lightly hopped Belgian white beer, at the Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro in Bayfield. Paired with an artisanal cheese board this was perfect for a sunny afternoon. Some establishments, like the Black Dog, offer flights of beers, which will allow you to be more adventurous without tak­ ing a risk on a whole pint. And remember, there are many fine providers of craft and imported beers — The Morrissey House, Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium, The Coates of Arms and Western’s Grad Club to name a few — and their servers are more than happy to offer suggestions.

When travelling, make some time to expand your beer horizons. While on a recent trip to Thailand with my daughters I had some very nice Singha and Chang beers. Singha, a clear and crisp beer ideal for a steamy hot Thai summer, can be found in North America and might otherwise go unsampled outside a Thai restaurant. It always tastes a little better in its own environment.

Finally, as a librarian I cannot resist offering a little reader’s advisory. If you’re looking for a great introduction to brewing and the pairing of beers with foods, check out one of my favourite

A British Pub.

Be Warm. Be Welcome. Be at Home.

• 17 Drafts on Tap • Over 30 Single Malt Scotches • Gift Certificates • Traditional British Comfort Food The

Coates of Arms Restaurant & Pub

580 Talbot Street, London (at Albert) www.coatesofarms.ca 519-432-1001 beer writers, Stephen Beaumont. Beaumont’s Brewpub Cookbook: 100 Great Recipes from 30 Famous North American Brewpubs is loaded with lots of great pairing suggestions. Or read The Best of American Beer and Food: Pairing & Cooking with Craft Beer by Lucy Saunders.

Better yet, take a copy with you to your favourite seller of craft and imported beers, and feed your imagination and your thirst.

Bruce Fyfe is an assistant librarian at Weldon, Western University, a regular contributing photographer to eatdrink magazine and the former manager of the Grad Club, Western U.

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wine

Liquid Gold Perfection Icewines from Niagara

By Rick VanSickle

W

hile a week of minus 10° C (and colder) temperatures might send a chill up the spine of many Ontarians, in the vineyards of Niagara it was a blessing that came just in the nick of time. After a relatively warm winter, temperatures finally plunged in late January, enough to allow wineries in Ontario to harvest the liquid gold that is one of Canada’s most unique products.

Icewine, which can fetch up to hundreds of dollars for a single 375 ml bottle, has become a luxury wine sought after by wine lovers worldwide.

The sweet nectar made from frozen grapes is enjoying renewed popularity.

Preliminary registrations for icewine and late harvest grapes show 5,500 tonnes of grapes were netted for the 2012 season. A substantial increase from last year’s 3,650 tonnes and production is slowly pushing towards levels not

seen since 2007, when a record of nearly 7,000 tonnes was netted.

The ritual of picking grapes in the freezing cold of winter then crushing the hard fruit into a luxurious and magical drink wasn’t invented in Canada, but Canadians have perfected the art of making and marketing icewine to the rest of the world.

This history of icewine dates back to 1794 when accidentally discovered by German farmers trying to save their grape harvest after a sudden frost. Fast-forward to the 1980s, and perceptive Ontario vintners recognized the cold winters could provide the perfect conditions for producing exceptional icewine.

In 1991, Inniskillin entered its 1989 Vidal Icewine at Vinexpo in Bordeaux. It won the Grand Prix d’Honneur and the world’s attention. Since that time, Ontario’s icewines have been unrivalled on the world stage. Year after year, it

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brings home gold medals and critical acclaim from the most prestigious international competitions.

Icewine helped put Canada on the world wine map and launched an industry that remains the most lucrative wine export in this country.

Suffering global economies have meant lean years for the expensive luxury wines, and wineries find themselves with a surplus from the 2006 to 2008 seasons.

Harvests up to 2012 were tiny, said Inniskillin winemaker, Bruce Nicholson, “There were some lean years with that whole economy thing,” Nicholson said, “But demand is back for icewine with interest from China, the U.S. and domestically.” Inniskillin is the world’s most renowned icewine producer and exports to over 70 countries.

Nicholson said it doesn’t really matter when he picks his icewine grapes but

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as time passes it starts wearing on staff. “It’s good that we have it off the vines. It’s good we’re done.

You get antsy with picking hanging over your head; it’s that anticipation, the waiting that gets to you.”

Inniskillin makes icewine from three core varietals: Vidal, Riesling and Cabernet Franc and also makes a delicious Sparkling Vidal Icewine.

The key to making great icewine, according to Nicholson, is in the acidity, which balances the high sugar content and makes the wine feel less cloying on the palate. “You have to have the acid or it’s like standing up a skeleton, it just doesn’t work,” he said. He loves working with Riesling icewine because it’s “so pristine and elegant and has that natural acidity and lemon-lime flavours” but he’s also growing fonder of Cabernet Franc with those “strawberry and cream” flavours.

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For the “wow factor,” Nicholson will pour guests his Sparkling Vidal that explodes in the mouth with a combination of sweet tropical fruit and energetic bubbles.

Icewine is renowned for its intense flavours, rich bouquet and unsurpassed smoothness. It is produced from grapes that have been left on the vine after the fall harvest. As soon as there is a sustained temperature of minus 8°C or colder, vintners are allowed, according to VQA rules, to harvest their icewine grapes. It varies from year to year when that occurs; as early as December or as late as March.

The frozen grapes are taken from the vine and pressed immediately releasing a thick, rich, yellow-gold liquid, highly concentrated in natural sugars and acidity.

In some regions of the world shortcuts are taken, such as putting late harvest grapes in freezers. Production in Ontario is monitored by a VQA-appointed agent who will stop a harvest once the temperature rises above minus 8°C. The average sugar level of the juice used must reach at least 35 Brix (Brix is the measurement of sugar content in a liquid)

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and both alcohol and residual sugar in the finished wine must result exclusively from the natural sugar of the grapes.

The best icewines are produced when summers are hot and the winters cold and sharp. Of all the wine-producing regions in the world, only Ontario has a winter climate sufficiently cold enough to ensure an icewine crop in most years. Icewine is currently produced by 60 wineries in Ontario.

It takes about 3.5 kilograms of Riesling grapes or three kilograms of Vidal grapes to produce one 375-millilitre bottle of icewine. The same amount of grapes would produce six to seven times as much table wine. When you consider these factors, a price of $50 to $100 per bottle is reasonable.

Icewine is often enjoyed with desserts or as a dessert on its own. But it can also make a perfect complement for rich savoury foods such as foie gras or aged blue cheeses. Icewine is also used as a “dosage” for sparkling wine and as a flavourful addition to cocktails.

Almost every winery in Niagara makes some sort of icewine. Among the top producers are Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs,

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Stratus, Henry of Pelham, Pillitteri, Chateau des Charmes, Tawse, Reif, Pondview and Peller Estates.

Recommended Icewines

Inniskillin Sparkling Icewine Vidal 2011 ($80 for 375 ml) — This special bottling of sparkling Vidal icewine has quickly become a favourite of mine, and a style I hope catches on with every icewine producer in Niagara. It starts with rousing, invigorating aromatics of sweet apricot, peach tart and exotic tropical fruits. The bubbles from this Charmat method sparkler dance nimbly in the glass and explode on the palate with alluring sweetness and playful effervescence. The flavours are gorgeous with peach compote, orange peel, citrus, mango, apricot and honeycomb all delivered on a racy spine of acidity. Herein lies the future of icewine. Wow! Stratus Riesling Icewine 2008 ($40 for 200 ml) — Penetrating aromas of sweet honey, lime, lemon, ripe apples, bees wax, mineral and hints of compoted tropical fruits. It’s built on a backbone of racy acidity that shows on the palate, lifting the concentration of citrus flavours and leading to a long, vibrant finish.

Tawse Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2011 ($35 for 200 ml) — An exciting nose of strawberry compote, cherry-raspberry accents and touches of jammy black fruits that are persistent and inviting. It explodes on the palate with supersweet and thick red fruits balanced by racy acidity all delivered on a long, clean finish. A nice subtle nutty taste is just starting to emerge. Hold some for the cellar, if you can.

Vineland Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2011 ($42 for 375 ml) — The aromas are thick and rich with jammy raspberry, black cherry, currants and just a whiff of blueberry chiming in. It’s viscous and rich on the palate with bold and rich red fruits that coat the mouth. It has decent acidity that provides balance on the finish.

Altogether, a highly extracted, sweet icewine that deserves some love in the cellar.

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Rick VanSickle is the publisher of www.WinesInNiagara. com. Follow him on Twitter @rickwine

Tues–Wed: 10 to 6 • Thurs–Sat: 10 to 9 Sundays: 10 to 4 (Brunch Only 10 to 2) • Closed Mondays

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books

My Canada Includes Foie Gras A Culinary Life

By Jacob Richler Review by Darin Cook

A

recent addition to Canadian food writing comes from our nation’s literary aristocracy.

Jacob Richler, the son of the late and beloved Canadian man of letters, Mordecai, has been a food columnist for most of his writing career and his book, My Canada Includes Foie Gras (Viking Canada, 2012, $32.00), provides a glimpse into his culinary life. As much as his father attained the status of literary giant, Richler has achieved eminence as our own national food columnist and restaurant critic. He is in the enviable position of frequenting Michelin-starred restaurants around the world the way some people visit Domino’s Pizza. It is Richler’s habit as an insider to enter famous restaurants through the kitchen door, and he has chummed around enough with the owner of the famous Schwartz’s delicatessen to slyly receive the recipe for the secret spice rub for their Montreal smoked meat. He has even collaborated on cookbook projects with some of Canada’s best chefs, like Mark McEwan and Susur Lee. Richler follows the ups and downs of highprofile chefs like these because his career is intertwined with the food scene they are creating in Canada. Hailing

from Montreal, he doesn’t focus only on the food of Quebec, but he does lean heavily on it because, as he writes, “Canada has never produced anything that boasts even a small fraction of the culinary renown of Montreal smoked meat.” The strong emphasis on the terroir of Quebec food is also a distinguishing feature. Numerous Quebecois chefs take care in serving only in-season products from provincial suppliers. Chef Yvan Lebrun told Richler, “I’ve seen a lot of suppliers work very hard to adapt to the demands of local chefs.

Today their products are superb, and it’s our responsibility to encourage them so that they can make a living from their work.”

In the days when foie gras was getting heavy negative press, Richler was comfortable serving his dog foie gras biscuits made by Toronto chef, Marc Thuet, who claimed to have been weaned on the terrine of fattened duck liver as a baby. He was raised in Alsace where it was a staple, rather than the luxury treat it is considered today. Richler, like his dog, does have a fondness for foie gras in all forms (terrines, seared foie gras and bacon sandwiches, whole roasted foie gras, foie gras-topped poutine) and, as the title implies, he expounds upon the high quality produced in Quebec as a defining dish in our country.

Richler has eaten much great food and lived to write about it; if I can’t see or eat it personally, then listening to Richler remember some of his favourite dishes is mouth-watering enough.

National food columnist and restaurant critic Jacob Richler. Photo by Paul Orenstein.

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Charcuterie boards, first introduced to him as a child by his father in Paris, seem to be another favourite of Richler’s. We are treated to his privileged involvement in the complete rituals of slaughtering a 400-lb pig to get the appropriate parts for making all manner of salami, prosciutto, sausage, pancetta, and the like in what he considers to be the most authentic Italian restaurant in Toronto, Buca Osteria & Enoteca. A game dinner served by David Lee at Toronto’s Nota Bene restaurant convinced Richler that meats from the Canadian wild — mallard duck, elk, pheasant, and bear tenderloins — rise above the blandness of much of the standard meat served.

Although mainly focusing on his writing as a restaurant critic, by pointing out restaurants from seafood-rich Vancouver to the tasting-menus in Toronto, Richler’s food journey also takes us to his home life. As a child, his father ate the same thing for lunch every day in their family cottage while he was writing his best works of literature. From his mother, he inherited an immense cookbook collection which got him on his way to enjoying classic cooking in his own kitchen, and keeping it well stocked with speciality items from Toronto markets. We accompany the adult Richler as he takes his own children for Peking duck for the first time, hoping they won’t revolt at the head and beak still being attached. About his daughter, he wonders: “Would Simone now notice the obvious anatomical connection between lunch and the little stuffed fuzzy duck with which she like to spend the night?”

Richler ends the book with a look to the future of fine dining, suggesting that a broader selection of truly competent chefs in less fancy restaurants have made everyday eating less of a stretch from haute cuisine than it used to be. Even though he has spent much of his career partaking in foie grasladen, truffle-infused meals across Canada, he has also been a long-time patron of Montreal delis, devouring the medium-fat pastrami sandwiches on rye that were muchloved by his father. And both styles give him a great deal of pleasure in the eating.

Darin Cook works and plays in Chatham-Kent and regularly contributes to eatdrink.

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cookbooks

The Epicurious Cookbook More Than 250 of Our Best-Loved Four-Fork Recipes for Weeknights, Weekends & Special Occasions Edited by Tanya Steel Review and Recipe Selections by Jennifer Gagel

E

picurious.com, one of the most widely recognized and respected online sites for recipes is taking it old school. Beginning in 1995 as a digital recipe database hand-coded by a small order of monks in upstate New York, it was intended as an online collection of recipes from Gourmet and Bon Appétit magazines. It has grown to become a force in its own right under the care of Tanya Steel, editor-in-chief since 2005. An estimated 8.5 million sign on each month to find (and rate) recipes by some of the best chefs in the business, and ninety-six percent of the professional recipes on the site have been tested its readers posting their recommendations and reviews.

Now fans of the site can cook with their own book on the kitchen counter; its pages soaking up the love and mess from their favorite recipes just as any beloved cookbook should.

The Epicurious Cookbook includes a selection of recipes from the thousands submitted and reviewed on Epicurious. com receiving the highly coveted four-fork rating,. Recipes chosen were based on those with the largest number readers who said they would most likely make them again, and includes those from devoted home cooks whose recipes received the same rigorous treatment as those created by world-renowned chefs.

While there isn’t a picture of every recipe, there are 100 stunning photographs by preeminent food photographer, Ellen Silverman, that bring a clean, homey look to the recipes. Recipes in The Epicurious Cookbook are organized by season rather than by course, making it easy to cook

what is fresh and available.

The editors do promote local, fresh ingredients but also recognize that in some areas and some seasons, the supermarket aisle is as fresh and local as it gets. This can be a refreshing change when you’re feeling overwhelmed by pressures to shop from only those places within walking distance.

An outstanding supermarket standby is Lemon Gnocchi with Spinach and Peas.

In the time it takes to boil water and cook the gnocchi for 5 minutes, a light but satisfying meal is served. The gnocchi lends substance, while the peas, spinach and lemon keep the dish light and bright.

And while you can certainly use fresh ingredients, the results with frozen are worth having over and over again. It’s also a versatile recipe. Add other veggies, or crumbled bacon bits. Just don’t omit the lemon; it makes the dish.

The diversity of the recipes reflects the diversity of the many chefs and home cooks who created, tested, reviewed and loved these dishes. You can find a range of dishes for any season, style or occasion, and the menu plans will help you pull it all together. Beside the professional recipes you’ll find tips and substitutions from readers reminding us of the collaborative roots that goes into Epicurious.com, which brings together food and technology, famous chefs and the unknown but avid home cooks. Pretty good for a little old style printing press technology.

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Freelance writer JENNIFER GAGEL works as a research assistant at London Public Library, and as a business process consultant at Cunningham MacGregor & Associates. Contact jennagagel@gmail.com Recipes courtesy of The Epicurious Cookbook: More Than 250 of Our Best-Loved Four-Fork Recipes for Weeknights, Weekends & Special Occasions; Tanya Steel editor-in-chief of Epicurious.com & the Editors of Epicurious.com; Oct 2012; $29.99; Appetite by Random House.

Lemon Gnocchi with Spinach and Peas Lemon lovers adore this simple and satisfying pasta. Lemon zest and juice brighten peas and spinach while lightening the creamy Parmesan sauce. You can also use penne, orecchiette, or another small pasta. To cut back on calories, use whole milk or half-and-half in place of the some or all of the heavy cream.

1 Simmer peas with the cream, red pepper flakes, garlic, and salt in a 12-inch skillet, covered, until tender, about 5 minutes.

Makes 4 servings

3 Meanwhile, cook gnocchi in a pasta pot of boiling salted water (3 tbsps salt for 6 quarts of water) until al dente. Reserve ½ cup (125 mL) pasta-cooking water, then drain gnocchi.

1 cup (250 mL) frozen baby peas (not thawed) ½ cup (125 mL) heavy cream ¼ tsp (1 mL) dried red pepper flakes 1 garlic clove, smashed ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt 3 cups (750 mL) (packed) baby spinach (3 ounces) 1 tsp (5 mL) grated lemon zest 1 ½ tsp (7 mL) fresh lemon juice 1 lb dried gnocchi ¼ cup (50 mL) grated Parmesan cheese

2 Add spinach and cook over medium-low heat, uncovered, stirring, until wilted. Remove from heat and stir in lemon zest and juice.

4 Add gnocchi to sauce along with the cheese and reserved cooking water and stir to coat.

Thin with additional cooking water, if necessary.

ED note: Fresh gnocchi will turn out like little pillows of heaven. If using fresh peas instead of frozen, add them to simmering sauce 1 minute before adding the spinach. ½ tsp of red pepper flakes makes for a medium hot dish. ¼ tsp suits lighter palates.

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Pork Tenderloin with Spiced Rhubarb Chutney Tender pork is roasted with rich, warmly spiced chutney so that the fruity condiment gets a chance to cook into the meat. The woody, sweet notes of the chutney are also great atop chicken, lamb, or duck — or just on a spoon, straight. Rhubarb is at its prime in spring so for a fall-friendly chutney, replace it with fresh apples and figs.

Makes 4 servings For Chutney ¾ cup (180 mL) sugar 1/3 cup (80 mL) cider vinegar 1 tbsp (15 mL) minced peeled fresh ginger 1 tbsp (15 mL) ground garlic powder 1 tsp (5 mL) ground cumin ½ tsp (2 mL) ground cinnamon ½ tsp (2 mL) ground cloves ¼ tsp (1 mL) dried red pepper flakes 4 cups (950 mL) (½-inch) cubed fresh rhubarb (about 1½ lbs) ½ cup (120 mL) (generous) chopped red onion 1/3 cup (80 mL) dried tart cherries or golden raisins (about 2 ounces) For Pork 2 pork tenderloins (about 1 1/2 lbs total), trimmed 2 tsp (10 mL) ground cumin 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil Fresh cilantro sprigs For chutney: 1 Combine first 8 ingredients in heavy large Dutch oven. Bring to simmer over low heat, stirring until sugar dissolves.

2 Add rhubarb, onion and dried cherries; increase heat to mediumhigh and cook until rhubarb is tender and mixture thickens slightly, about 5 minutes.

Cool completely.

(Can be made a day ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before using.)

For pork: 3 Preheat oven to 400° F. 4 Sprinkle pork with cumin. Season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in heavy large skillet over high heat. Add pork and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to roasting pan.

5 Brush pork with 6 tablespoons chutney. Roast until thermometer inserted into center of pork registers 155° F, brushing occasionally with 6 more tablespoons chutney, about 25 minutes.

6 Slice pork into medallions. Garnish with cilantro and serve with remaining chutney.

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the lighter side

Ladies Who Lunch

By KYM WOLFE

A

The previous month we had been to TG’s fter reading an article in eatdrink about the River Room restaurant, Addis Ababa, the Ethiopian restaurant on Dundas near Colborne St. We devoured our a fellow I know mused aloud whether there actually are “ladies communal platter of food, delectable in its who lunch.” Yes, I confirmed, indeed there own right, but as always, the meal was made all the better by our spicy conversation and are. In fact, I’m part of one such group and generous dollops of laughter. it’s been quite an adventure exploring a Being part of the group has been a terrific different local restaurant every month.

Now, women are often sociable creatures, way to get out and share experiences of the local restaurant scene, though not so I imagine there might be quite a few everyone turns up every month; but we do groups who gather to gab and grab some get to take turns choosing our next dining grub. They might even refer to themselves spot. Ethnic restaurants seem to be a as being those “ladies who lunch” as described. But it just so happens my group of popular choice, and we tend to pick places ladies visited the River Room a few months ago, so naturally I wondered: might we be those “ladies who lunch,” the ones the astute writer had observed?

For the “Ladies Who Lunch” — then and now — laughter is almost always on the menu Mind you, that are homegrown and can only be found I was a bit surprised to see us referred to here in the London region. in the same sentence as, “the local who’s A few vegetarian selections on the menu who, lawyers and judges, and the culinary are a must, but other than that, we don’t set.” After all, some in the group call us the much care if we’re hobnobbing with the “chicks who chomp,” which might give you local who’s who or hanging out with the a different visual if you are trying to picture Bag Lady (another eatery, by the way, on what we might look like.

You can’t miss us really. We’re often quite our “highly recommended” list). Frankly, we’ll go anywhere if the food is good, the noisy. And silly. In December we almost price is right, and there is enough room had ourselves convinced to create a flash for six or eight or ten women of a certain mob with Christmas carols in the market age to settle in for a couple of hours. But after our lunch at Tanakaya. Almost. But don’t worry, we’ll be gone long before the not quite, which is truly a shame since one evening crowd arrives. After all, we are of the ladies is a good singer and I’m sure the ladies who lunch … not the babes who she could have carried the rest of us, even those who insist being tone deaf. Tanakaya brunch or the dames who dine. is well worth checking out by the way; the food is delicious and the owner, Flora, is quite good-natured if you happen to be KYM WOLFE is freelance writer based in London. with boisterous dining companions.

â„– 40 | March/April 2013

www.eatdrink.ca

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www.eatdrink.ca

№ 40 | March/April 2013

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