Eatdrink #42 July/August 2013 by eatdrink inc.

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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario № 42 • July/August 2013 www.eatdrink.ca

eatdrink Small (& Guilty) Pleasures at Stratford’s Montforte on Wellington

and Featuring

UpFront at the Market Truly Upfront and Personable

Railway City Brewing Company Crafting a Brighter Future in St. Thomas

Celebrate Summer! Suggestions for Savouring the Season

The MillHouse

Tasty Expansion at Arva Flour Mills ALSO: A Huron County Picnic Basket | Korean Restaurant & Manna Grill | COOKED by Michael Pollan

STR ATFORD

your culinary escape It's summer and Stratford sizzles at its culinary best.

Our newest culinary quest, the Bacon & Ale Trail presents

exciting bacon inspirations alongside refreshing craft brews at our pubs and food shops. Join a local foodie guide on

a stroll for Stratford's best on Flavours of Stratford

Culinary Walking Tours.

Delve into the art of cheese making, the magic of chocolate and candy making, brewing herbal tea infusions and

sustainable foraging with our experts on Culinary

Adventures.

Don't forget to mark your calendar for "Ontario's Best

Culinary Tourism Experience" - Savour Stratford Perth

County Culinary Festival, presented by GE CafĂŠ

Appliances, September 20-22.

Come to Stratford, we love to share our food. @StratfordON @SavourStratford

StratfordON SavourStratford

visitstratford.ca

Join us for these Upcoming Events… • Festival of Arts and Crafts — July 5–7 • Kinsmen Summerfest — July 10–13 • Goderich Horticultural Society Garden Tour — July 13 • Memories Now and Then Car Show — July 20 • Celtic College and Celtic Roots Festival — August 5–11 • Goderich Triathlon — August 18 • West Coast Bluefest — August 29–31

For information please contact:

Tourism Goderich 1 800 280 7637 or visit our website at:

goderich.ca

eatdrink

™ inc.

Think Global. Read Local. Publisher

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca

Managing Editor

Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca

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Contributing Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca Social Media Editor Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca Advertising Sales

Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca Cathy Spencer-Quennville – cathy@eatdrink.ca

Finances

Michael Bell – finance@eatdrink.ca

Graphics

Chris McDonell

Writers

Bryan Lavery, Sue Sutherland Wood, Jane Antoniak, Jill Ellis-Worthington, Dave Hammond, Jennifer Gagel, Bill Wittur, Darin Cook, David Hicks, Natalie Novak, Susan Orfald

Photographers

Steve Grimes, Bruce Fyfe

Copy Editor

Kym Wolfe

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A Virtual Magnet for All Things Culinary Interactive Digital Magazine, Complete Back Issues and More! OUR COVER: This image of Stratford’s Monforte on Wellington was shot by Nora Camps.

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Authentic

Culinary ExpEriEnCEs FROM FARM TO TABLE, LONDON’S CULINARY CULTURE IS COOKING WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR

WWW.LONDONTOURISM.CA/CULINARY

contents Celebrate Summer!

16 22

ISSUE № 42

JULY/AUGUST 2013

foo d w ri t er at l a r g e 8 A Taste for Life, and other matters By BRYAN LAVERY

SPOTLIGHT 12 Celebrate Summer! And Savour the Season R E S TAU R A N T S 16 UpFront & Personable: UpFront Restaurant & Bar By CHRISTIE MASSÉ 22 Small (& Guilty) Pleasures: Monforte on Wellington By BRYAN LAVERY 26 Korean Hot Spots: Korean Restaurant & Manna Grill By BRYAN LAVERY C U L I N A RY R E TA I L 20 The MillHouse, at Arva Flour Mill

By NATALIE NOVAK

fa r m ers & a r t is a ns 28 Crafting a Brighter Future at Railway City Brewing By JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON R o a d t rips 30 Filling Your Huron County Picnic Basket

By jANE ANTONIAK

T R AV E L 35 Exploring the Great Lake Bays Region of Michigan

By jANE ANTONIAK

N E W & N O TA B L E 38 The BUZZ

THE BUZZ

KITCHEN DESIGN 46 Choosing your Style and Finishes By SUSAN ORFALD

B eer m at t ers 50 Summer Rambling, Mondial de la Bière, and on ... By THE MALT MONK

56 58 62

W I N E 53 Choosing Wines for the Al Fresco Occasion By BILL WITTUR BOOKS 56 Cooked by Michael Pollan Review by DARIN COOK COOKBOOKS 58 River Cottage Veg by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall Review and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL T H E L I G H T E R S I D E 62 Which Basket Case are You? By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD

navigate great № 42 | July/August 2013

TIMES

Lambton County

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LAMBTON SHORES

SARNIA & POINT EDWARD

CENTRAL LAMBTON

ST.CLAIR RIVER DISTRICT

TOURISM SARNIA-LAMBTON

LET US GUIDE YOU THROUGH OUR VACATION PLAYGROUND!

dine

& UNWIND

call or click for your FREE travel guide and map

also available at area advertisers and visitor centres

1.800.254.0316

www.tourismsarnialambton.com/EatDrink

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

food writer at large

A Taste For Life, and other matters ... By Bryan Lavery

remember in the summer of 2003 when Sue Brooks, Fund Development staffer for what was then the AIDS Committee of London, called me to pitch a fundraising initiative that was creating a lot of excitement in Ottawa. Brooks believed it would be successful in London and wanted to run the idea past me and another restaurant owner, Colin Foster. The concept was simple. Brooks would promote the event and help drive diners to the res taurants on a Wednesday night. We would donate 25 percent of the before-tax tab to the agency, reach new diners and have larger crowds than the usual Wednesday night clientele. The proceeds would be used to help those living with and affected by HIV/AIDS in London with basic needs such as food and transportation, and to establish an emergency assistance fund. Fast forward ten years to 2013: instead of twelve restaurants participating in London, there were twenty-eight in London, two in Stratford and one in Exeter. The event now has an established portfolio of significant corporate and media sponsors who proudly add their names and reputations to this terrific event and important cause. Since its

Harvest Bucks

After a successful pilot, the Harvest Bucks program is gaining momentum. This initiative is aimed at improving access to fresh produce for those in London who need it most. The pilot project involved the production, distribution, and redemption of Harvest Bucks for fresh fruits and vegetables, to increase access to and the consumption of healthy, fresh produce. Kim Leacy, a public health dietician with the Middlesex-London Health Unit (MLHU), was pleased with the results of the pilot, which distributed Harvest Bucks vouchers, redeemable at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market (WFFAM),

inception A Taste For Life has raised over $550,000 and the agency, now Regional HIV/AIDS Connection (RHAC), serves Perth, Huron, Oxford, Elgin, Lambton and Middlesex counties. There is still no cure for HIV/AIDS. The number of clients needing support and services has also grown. It is more important than ever for A Taste For Life to both exist and flourish. Over the past ten years, Brooks and I have collaborated on events and initiatives for important causes, and I’m pleased to say she has never steered me wrong. She under stands how important restaurant owners are in mobilizing a community. Brooks has recently returned to RHAC, and this summer we will be making the rounds in Stratford, to speak with like-minded and kindred spirits in the restaurant community, to help grow A Taste For Life in Stratford. We have a shared passion and heartfelt belief in the event, but far more important, we believe that the needs of the people served by RHAC are just as criti cal today as they were a decade ago. A Taste For Life in Stratford signals to people living with HIV in Stratford that they are not alone; there is a network of support for them when they need it.

to London area residents identified by community groups as needing more produce in their diets. I was happy to be the liaison between Christopher Green and Trevor Fowler of the Child and Youth Network, Kim Leacy and the WFFAM. Based on similar initiatives, Leacy told the MLHU board, ``the pilot was a resound ing success for vulnerable families, the organizations they access, and the produce vendors at the market.” WFFAM produce vendors and Harvest Bucks participants Sherri and Craig Turner say the pilot program was a great success. “We were personally able to wait on many

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

selection they had to choose from.” of the customers that had Harvest Bucks The pilot project distributed $8,000 worth and found that they were happy to have of Harvest Buck vouchers to seven social the opportunity to come to the market service organizations. From November and choose all the produce that they 2012 to February 2013, $4,972 worth wanted. Many said that they hadn’t of Harvest Bucks was redeemed. had some of the fruit and vegetables The balance of the money will they were choosing for a long be used to seed the next phase time and were so excited. They of the program, anticipated to came mostly with $20.00 worth start in July. of vouchers and would have us The mandate is to grow the project go along as they were choosing and tell them how much they had left to spend. They by adding produce from vendors at the indoor and outdoor farmers’ markets at chose wisely, trying to make the vouchers stretch as far as they could while also getting Covent Garden Market and Masonville Market, and by identifying community their favourite things. It wasn’t just the kids organizations interested in participating by that had fun though; we waited on people purchasing Harvest Bucks with their own of all ages that had Harvest Bucks. They all money or through sponsorships and grants. seemed to be amazed at how much they got for their vouchers and also how much

The Case for Food Trucks

Modern food trucks serve a diverse variety of healthy food options and cultural foods in other cities. They are positioned to incubate new businesses and become an alternative launching pad for healthy, innovative food.

There is, of course, a big difference between the greasy-spoon chip wagon and the food truck that serves healthy gourmet or ethnic street foods. I support food trucks because they

EXPERIENCE DOWNTOWN LONDON

519.663.2002 | www.downtownlondon.ca @Downtown_London

DowntownLondon

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stimulate culinary innovation and diversity, draw culinary tourists, provide employment, engage community, and are poised to become an important part of the social and culinary fabric of the city. Local proponents of food trucks have concrete goals. Western Fair Farmers’ Market manager, Michelle Navackas, is one of several proponents leading the rallying cry. Navackas believes that one of the principal goals is to introduce the growing food truck industry to London in a thoughtful and articulate way, by creating guidelines and following best practices, so the restaurant community can continue to be successful and not feel threatened by this addition to the local culinary scene. Last month City Council proposed a pilot project that would see operators compete in a lottery for three assigned spots — two along Dufferin Avenue in front of Victoria Park, and one on Clarence Street, north of Dufferin. The pilot was expected to run from late June to the end of October. Trucks, which would have to be licensed, would be restricted fromopening during

Taste & Tour of Middlesex County

Recently, I was privileged to work on the Taste and Tour of Middlesex with Sheila Devost and Gavin Antill from Tourism Middlesex. Under Devost`s guidance Tourism Middlesex has been committed to heightening awareness and developing partnerships for tourism and agri-tourism related businesses in Middlesex County. The event was held at the Komoka Wellness and Recreation Centre, space donated by the Municipality of Middlesex Centre. The tasting event was supported by Foodland Ontario, Local Food Connections: Farmer/Food Buyer Networking Event and Taste it Committee, Libro Financial, County of Middlesex, eatdrink magazine and ethicalgourmet. Middlesex County is rich with emerging culinary tourism and agri-tourism resources and, due to the efforts of Devost and Anthill, is beginning to benefit from a stronger regional culinary identify. Devost and Antill invited local farmers, producers and growers to partner with local restaurants and chefs to create farm-to-table tasting stations to promote Middlesex products.

№ 42 | July/August 2013

festivals. The proposed pilot, which was deemed short-sighted, was sent back for revision. It looks like the program will be expanded to include eight operators and more designated spots around the city. Food trucks have some advantages over a traditional eat-in restaurant. The ability to travel to where the customers are is a definite plus. Generally speaking, food trucks have lower overhead, compared to restaurants, and require less staff. However, a food truck is still a labour-intensive business that requires a lot of work and attention. Food trucks are subject to health and safety regulations and inspections. In some cities they are required to adhere to distance restrictions, a buffer zone separating them from existing restaurants. In reality, many food trucks are providing a much healthier alternative to fast food chains. The city council committee recommended deferring a decision on food trucks and specifically instructed staff to draw up additional criteria which will include “a more creative proposal solicitation” and “menu consideration.”

The evening’s tasting participants included Chef Barbara Toomer from Strath roy P.C. Cooking School, Chef Danjiel “Dacha” Markovic and Brian Blatnici from Kantina, Bill Wittur of Noteworthy Wines, The Carolinian Winery and Eatery, Golden Leaf Winery, Elijah Richardson from Sun nivue Farms, Amy’s Restaurant, Duke of Sydenham, Michelle Navackas and Brittany Coats of Western Fair Farm ers’ and Artisans’ Market, Appin Barbeque, Heeman’s, Slegers Organic Greens, Fort Rose Maple Syrup, Eversprings Farms, Fire Roasted Coffee and Habitual Chocolate. The con ference and tasting event, which was held on May 28th and 29th 2013, showcased the county as a whole and built awareness about its agricultural and culinary identity. Like many rural communities in Ontario, Mid dlesex County has begun looking towards both culinary and agri-tourism to diversify its local economy. Bryan Lavery is eatdrink’s Writer at Large and Contributing Editor. He can be reached at bryan@eatdrink.ca

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spotlight

Celebrate Summer!

Savour the Season with these eatdrink Recommendations By the editors

t is so brief now. Oh for the long languid summers of youth, when the days and weeks seemed to stretch so far in front of us that Labour Day and the return to school seemed like the distant future. No longer, and all the more reason to enjoy every day of summer with gusto. And though this issue of eatdrink is full of stories to help do just that, we thought that it was also appropriate to get really specific as well. What follows are suggestions for each day of the week, particularly for July and August. While each establishment we’ve highlighted will provide a wonderful experience whenever they are open, we’ve chosen a day when we think you’ll find it especially rewarding. Sometimes that means a stop when things are more quiet, sometimes the best times are when the crowds are there ... This is a subjective list, but we are certain that there is plenty here for everyone.

MONDAY From July 5–14, Corelicious celebrates London’s Downtown restaurants with 3-course prix fixe menus. Reservations are highly recommended, and with lunches at $15 or $20 and dinners from $25 to $35, it’s easy to see why. Not every place is open Mondays, but lots are. See the outstanding list at www.corelicious.ca

family style. All-you-can-eat for $35 or try the snack version for $15. Reservations suggested. www.mercerhall.com Enjoy Happy Hour at Pasto’s Grill from Monday to Friday, 3–6pm. Appetizers are half-price at the bar with the purchase of an alcoholic beverage. And for gluten-free folks, all of Pasto’s pastas and pizzas, and a number of desserts, are now available gluten-free. www.pastosgrill.com

TUESDAY Londonlicious is back, from July 19–

August 11. “Get a babysitter and call a cab… for tonight we live it up!” Get the very best in lunch & dinner for $15, $20, $25, $30 or $35. Make reservations and to make it an even better day, check out the new companion event, Beautylicious! Running concurrently, get a beauty package for $35, $50, $75 & $100. Get your beauty on! www. londonlicious.ca & www.beauty-licious.ca

Garlic’s of London wears its distinction

as purveyors of inspired seasonal menus proudly, and is deservedly busy on weekends. Make a mid-week reservation, and may we suggest their local and awardwinning artisan cheeses and house-cured meats, for a light lunch, appetizer or even dessert. www.garlicsoflondon.com

The venerable David’s Bistro always offers a 3-course prix fixe menu option, and is open for dinner nightly, with lunch Wednesday to Friday. Enjoy classic bistro fare, perfectly executed, with genial owner David Chapman, his wife Cindy and daughter Natalie the ideal hosts. www.davidsbistro.ca

Kantina continues to delight patrons with a

In Stratford, join Mercer Hall’s Nosh Monday program! From 5–8pm every Monday evening, enjoy an exquisite series of small plates. The Chef’s choice menu offers a variety of flavours, served

a week, but pick a “quiet” evening such as Tuesday to plan a special event for you and a group of friends. Explore over 50 different olive oils and balsamic vinegars, and more! See www.olivemeco.com for details.

cutting edge Balkan menu that delights the senses, and their summer menu of tapas-style fare is a case in point. Tapas are available every Tuesday and Wednesday, and we’d like to be there every day. www.kantina.ca

Olive-Me & Co. is open for tastings 6 days

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

WEDNESDAY Wednesday nights are great chance to try new beers at Milos’ Craft Beer Emporium and beat the weekend rush. Many of these beers are sold out before Friday arrives. And don’t underestimate the kitchen. Yum! www.pubmilos.com

The Church Key Bistro-Pub is a great spot on a Wednesday, whether you’re looking for a craft beer or a pub meal with flair. The courtyard patio is a gem, spacious yet intimate, tucked along Richmond Street. www.thechurchkey.ca The King Edward Restaurant & Pub in

Ilderton is running a Wednesday night Beer & Wing promo for the summer. Enjoy a pound of regular wings and an Ontario craft pint (20 oz) for $15 + tax, from 6pm to 9pm. www.thekingedward.com Grand Bend is about more than the weekend. Get to Smackwater Jack’s and enjoy their weekly Wednesday Grand Bend HUMP DAY Celebration! Live music and great food are part of the action on

the water’s edge, with boats coming and leaving all day. www.smackwaterjacks.ca Right on the Grand Bend beach, Sunset House and Jalapeno’s also have a great music night. On the Sunset House side, enjoy casual fine dining and acoustic open mike “sunset sessions” as part of Wine Down Wednesday, while the Jalapeno’s Wild West Wednesday goes electric with their nicely spicy Mexican fare. www.sunsethouse.ca

THURSDAY Thursday nights are great at The Springs Restaurant just to watch the entertaining Glenn Bennett play and have some drinks on the patio. But as usual, there are a couple of new items on this summer’s menu, so a bite or two is also recommended. www. thespringsrestaurant.com While the Covent Garden Market is open daily, the outdoor Covent Garden Farmers’ Market runs Thursdays (8 am–2 pm) and Saturdays (8 am–1 pm). This is a

LONDON

JULY 5 - 14 *

OR $20

25 $30 $35

3 COURSE PRIX FIXE MENUS FROM YOUR FAVORITE DOWNTOWN RESTAURANTS!

SEE ALL PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS AT

CORELICIOUS.CA

*SOME RESTAURANTS MAY ONLY OFFER 2 COURSES FOR LUNCH. SEE RESTAURANT FOR DETAILS.

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

perfect time to get your seasonal, fresh, and local food directly from the producers, outside on the tented square. www.coventmarket.com

Railway City Brewing Company is open every day in

St. Thomas, but the staff is frequently called to provide their services at one festival or another on weekends. Call ahead to get a full tour, as they would love to show you around and demon strate the brewing process. Samples are encouraged with every tour! www.railwaycitybrewing.com

Goderich is a hopping town all summer,

and most Saturdays are filled with unique festivals and cultural activities. There has been a massive amount of new building since the tornado struck two summers ago, but the beach and sunsets are exactly as beautiful as they always were. www.goderich.ca

rate Celebm Sumayser 7D a Week!

FRIDAY Eddington’s of Exeter offers an authentic

local taste for lunch and dinner all summer, but “fish on Friday” takes on a special meaning here. Owner/Chef James Eddington features fresh Lake Huron Pickerel on Friday nights, to rave reviews. Check out Eddington’s Events Calendar for other theme nights. www.eddingtons.ca Stratford gets busy in the summer, for all the right reasons, but avoid some of the crowd by doing the Flavours of Stratford — Afternoon Culinary Walking Tour on Friday. The guided tour visits a selection of unique food destinations and you will sample generously from locally produced culinary delights. Arrive hungry! $36/per person, 2:30–5:30 pm, leaving from the Stratford Tourism Alliance building, 47 Downie St. Tickets available online: www.flavoursofstratford.ca

Masonville Farmers’ Market opens

weekly in the northeast corner of the Masonville Mall parking lot. Primarily producer-based, this lively market is open from 8am–2pm. www.farmersandartisansmarkets.com

SATURDAY In addition to all of the regular goings-on, Downtown London is hopping with a series of summer festivals, with Victoria Park a hub of activity almost every weekend. Check www.downtownlondon. ca for details.

The folks in SarniaLambton are a little

spoiled by being able to quickly nip down to the water at any time, but Saturdays are still special. For activities on the water, Sarnia-Lambton takes full advantage of its gorgeous beaches all summer. Check out their vacation planner at www.tourismsarnialambton.com for highlights for each day of the week. In addition to the regular lunch menu,

Willie’s Café is now offering a selection

of Brunch menu items on Saturday, from 11:30am–3pm. “Walk over to Willie’s” and enjoy healthy comfort cuisine in the friendly confines of a cottage in the city. www.williescafe.on.ca

Enjoy the spacious patio at Crossings Grill & Pub, with local artists performing on stage every Saturday night, starting at 8pm. There are also 32 different draughts on tap. But pace yourself! Crossings is also open the other days of the week. www.crossingsgrill.ca While select vendors are open on Thursdays, Saturdays are big days at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market. There’s plenty of free parking but the friendly crowd does get large, as the mix of vendors provides an interesting and eclectic range of treats and staples for discriminating shoppers. Open 8am–3pm Saturdays. www.londonsfarmersmarket.ca

SUNDAY The Raja offers a special Buffet on Sundays, for lunch and dinner (Lunch: 12–3pm; Dinner: 5–9pm). There are lots of choices for vegetarian and nonvegetarians, all presented in Royal Copper pots and dishes. www.rajafinedining.ca

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The Idlewyld Inn has two wonderful outdoor dining settings — the Front Verandah and the Garden Courtyard — in which to enjoy their delightful Sunday Brunch. Chef Jeff Fortner has taken over the Avenue Dining kitchen, and together with Sous Chef Ashton Gillespie, they continue the tradition of using seasonal, local ingredients to prepare simple, yet elegant cuisine. www.idlewyldinn.com Visit the Downie Street Bakehouse in the Market Square behind City Hall every Sunday (from 10–2) for the Stratford Sunday Slow Food Market. The from-scratch, handshaped artisanal and specialty breads contain honest ingredients and great flavour. And they also happen to be good for you! www.goodbread.ca

The River Room recently launched a

new summer menu, and their Sunday Brunch remains a popular option. Think NYC sophistication with a stellar view of the Forks of The Thames river. www. theriverroom.ca

www.eatdrink.ca

The award-winning Michael’s On The Thames maintains that “Any Night Is A Great Night For Something Special,” and their Tableside Cooking is truly “Food With Flair.” Open weekdays for lunch and daily for dinner. www.michaelsonthethames.com

Blackfriars continues to offer their

outstanding Sunday Brunch, but make your reservations early. This culinary landmark also offers consistently creative upbeat lunchs and intimate dinners, with ample free parking and careful attention to dietary restrictions. www.blackfriarsbistro.com Savour an upscale market experience at

Ogilvie’s Food & Artisan Market. Open

Saturdays 8 am–5 pm and Sundays 9 am–3 pm, there’s something for everyone! You will find a complement of year-round indoor vendors and 60 more vendors at the seasonal outdoor market. 1331 Hyde Park Road, south of Gainsborough. www.fb.com/ogilviesmarket Last but not least, follow eatdrinkmag on Twitter and Facebook to make the most of your precious summer. Enjoy!

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restaurants

UpFront & Personable At UpFront Restaurant & Bar in London By CHRISTIE MASSÉ Photography by Terri Low

aughs were shared on the sunny patio at UpFront at the Market while owners Jody and Josh Stall reminisced over past and present splendours. “It was the first time Jody cooked me dinner. I tried to carve her over-roasted duck, but I just kept hitting bone. Then I realized she roasted it upside down!” The couple has come a long way since the infamous “upsidedown-duck” date that sparked The spacious and comfortable sun-drenched patio wraps the both their personal relationship southwest corner of the Covent Garden Market, enhanced by and entrepreneurial careers. The stylish awnings and umbrellas endearing culinary disaster that set Porchetta Sandwich, another highlight of the stage for this duo over 20 years ago is a UpFront’s current menu. Described by Josh far cry from the dozens of ducks Jody now as a “hearty man sandwich,” the sandwich roasts on a weekly basis for the Chinese begins with a herb-dressed pork loin Barbeque Duck Clubhouse Sandwich. This wrapped in pork belly. It is then roasted, recent favourite also features their housesliced, and seared. Nothing is wasted as the cured and smoked bacon, snug between pan drippings are transformed into a pan slices of house-made cranberry pecan jus which tops the fresh brioche bearing bread. Front of house manager, and chef by the seared pork slices. The owners pride trade, John Gillan swears by the Roasted themselves on their creativity and emphasis on fresh, handmade menu items. The original UpFront Café, which opened in 2005 in nearby Strathroy, was a quaint 50-seat space in an 1867 bank building. The Stalls were determined to

A warm modern interior offers a welcoming number of seating options, perfect for an intimate dinner or a large gathering

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KLEIBER’S A Downtown London Culinary Landmark at the Covent Garden Market since 1940

The Chinese Barbeque Duck Clubhouse Sandwich

Roasted Porchetta Sandwich: Herb-dressed pork loin wrapped in pork belly, roasted, sliced and seared, served on a fresh brioche

Bangkok Salad: Mild white fish, pan-seared with a mediumspiced yellow Thai curry, topped with lightly toasted coconut, pineapple, sweet potato, cashews and mango, dressed in a strawberry, mint and passion fruit vinaigrette carry their from-scratch philosophy over to their new 220-seat location — a daunting objective. The staff utilizes the basement prep kitchen located in the new space. This convenient setup has reduced the anticipated challenges that came with quadrupling their capacity. The space, in combination with a loyal and competent kitchen staff, allows for all sauces, proteins, breads, and desserts to be prepared in house. Having longtime bri gade members such as Josh’s right-hand-man Alex and partner Vickie (joked to be the new

Anna Turkewicz’s delicatessen and catering have a reputation for personal service and offering a large selection of European specialties, including quality products from Germany, Holland, Poland & Switzerland

Ensure your event is a success! For the best food and venues, call Kleiber’s for a free catering estimate. Civic Garden’s Approved Caterer London’s German Canadian Club and Polish Canadian Club Caterer

Covent Garden Market 519-495-7753

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

Leo’s Santa Fe Chicken Salad: avocado, black beans, corn, dates, and feta with a peanut lime dressing, topped with corn tortilla strips and lightly spiced Cajun chicken.

of wine and drafts, making each drink accessible to all clientele. This is important to them, as they carry a beverage to comple ment each dish in particular, say the Stalls. “We value the customer’s experience over our own profit.” Occupying a space previously famous for its diversity on the rail, the Stalls not only maintained the wide variety, they actually added a tap. They want to cater to everyone, offering both local microbrews as well as large beer manufacturers. Josh puts it well, “If you can’t find a beer on our menu you like then you don’t like beer!” To add to their already ambitious food and beverage undertaking, the restaurant has committed to showcasing local independent musicians all summer during their Steam Whistle Patio Party Series. London’s Sweet Leaf Garret will perform live every Sunday from 8 to 11pm. Another example of their commitment to engage with the community is their Starter Coupon Booklet. This offers local organizations the opportunity to purchase a coupon booklet for fundraising. Vouchers for discounted appetizers allow organizations to earn twice the cost of the booklet and diners to enjoy $8.00 starters. UpFront is also a proud sponsor of our London Knights, Original Kids Theatre Company, and the London Lesbian Film Festival. As Jody says, “Our food is addictive. We just want London to try it and they will be hooked.”

Josh and Jody), the owners can breathe easy as Alex runs the line and Vickie bakes the breads and dessert items. Vickie is famous for her Caramel Pecan Cin namon Buns and is now churning ice cream alongside Jody, with plans for unique flavours like Lemon Meringue Pie. There is an emphasis on variety at UpFront, which is apparent when perusing their new brunch menu (available Saturdays and Sundays from 11am–3pm). The menu offers three variations on the traditional Eggs Benedict, one of which includes grilled black tiger shrimp, fresh avocado salsa, and their house-smoked bacon. Other brunch items include Hot Shot Prime Rib Hash and Vickie’s French Toast, made with her orange-infused brioche and topped with a tantalizing whipped maple orange marmalade mascarpone cream. UpFront at the Market The restaurant also features international 130 King St, London dinner menus called ‘Destination Dinners’, 519-675-1020 comprised of a three course meal with www.upfrontrestaurant.com choice of starter, entrée, and dessert. For June they chose A Taste of Spain, including open daily 11am–close a starter called the Matador Meatballs — brunch saturdays & sundays 11am–3pm veal and beef meatballs with creamy gorgonzola cheese on a bed of piquant tomato sauce — and entrées including a seafood, chorizo, and pepper packed Paella. They offer daily specials as well, in order to tickle their creativity bone and to keep the variety flow ing. Josh explains, “We have specials because we want to make something special, not just to move a product.” The emphasis on variation carries over into their beverage menu, but in choice more than price range: the res Jody and Josh Stall taurant offers a flat rate on all glasses

Photo by Monique Wiendels www.moniquewiendels.com

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

culinary retail

What’s Old Is New Again The MillHouse, at Arva Flour Mill, in Arva By Natalie NovaK

uick — where do you think of to buy natural and organic meat, cheese, coffees and teas, specialty condi ments and other culinary goodies? If the folks at Arva Flour Mill have their way, The MillHouse will soon be near the top of your list, and health-conscious food shoppers will beat a path to the new Mill District being created at the north edge of London. The Mill Store has long been a bakers’ paradise, with its offerings of locally grown flours and milled flours, grains and other related ingredients. The recently opened MillHouse will hold the same appeal to people looking for natural, organic, and predominantly locally sourced foods for cooking and barbecuing, all in one place. The MillHouse, located in the recently renovated livery stable, is the first building to be converted to retail use, in phase one of the new Mill District plan. The shop carries a good selection of natural meats and fish: a range of certified organic meat from Field Gate Organics; water buffalo sausage, burgers, roasts and steaks from Tenderbuff near Stratford; fish from Hooked Inc. in Toronto, which are caught fresh, cleaned, portioned and blast frozen immediately. Hooked Inc. skips the distributor, purchasing fish directly and carrying only Mike Matthews runs the Arva Flour Mill in much the same way it has operated for almost 200 years.

those from clean waters and healthy stocks. The MillHouse is owned by Bill and Brenda Fellner. Brenda manages the store on a daily basis, but during start up you would have more likely found Christie Massé behind the counter. Massé, a graduate of the Stratford Chefs School, is a local chef and former owner of Crust Catering & Bakery who teaches in the culinary arts program at Fanshawe College. She worked with the Fellners to bring in a number of regional labels that local foodies will be familiar with: Field Gate Organics The Garlic Box, Nature’s Wonder Wheatgrass Juice, Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese, Rootham Gourmet Preserves, In A Jam and Heritage Line Herbs, to name a few. For goods that could not be sourced locally, Massé sought out Canadian suppliers, going as far afield as British Columbia for flavoured sea salts from Vancouver Island Salt Company. “We carry some products that you’ll find at the Covent Garden and Western Fair Farmers’ Markets, or specialty shops like Jill’s Table” said Massé, pointing out the Savvy Chef mustard, Fire Roasted and Hasbeans coffees, Kosuma energy bars and Pristine Olive oils. “For some people it will be more convenient to come here, and we’re open seven days a week.” During July and August the store will be closed on Mondays, returning to regular hours in the fall. The MillHouse also carries handmade

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soaps and lotions, natural bug sprays, and similar goods by local artisans, including handcrafted items made from recycled materials by a motherdaughter team from Kintore. In all, the MillHouse deals directly with 24 different suppliers, an important distinction for shoppers who look closely at ingredients and want to know where their food comes from.

The original homestead is the future site of the Mill District gastro pub

The MillHouse, located in the mill’s old livery stable, The MillHouse opened in February, and Fellner opened in February 2013. MillHouse manager is pleased with the response to date. He has been Christie Massé (above & below) sourced regional and Canadian goods, all natural or organic. Assorted working with Mike Matthews who, with his products are shown at the bottom of the page. siblings Steve and Julaine, owns the flour mill and the six acres of land that it sits on. Their goal is to transform the property to a foodie destination, and The MillHouse is first step in that plan. Next, Matthews and Fellner plan to convert the original homestead, which sits just over the footbridge by the mill stream, to a gastropub with a patio where diners can enjoy the scenic setting. The homestead building is large enough to also house a bakery, and possibly a butcher, cheese shop or other complimentary food business. All will be independently owned and operated, and Fellner says there is already a lot of interest, particularly in the restaurant. The MillHouse 2042 Elgin Street, Arva 519-601-6456 www.arvamillhouse.com NATALIE NOVAK is a freelance writer based in London.

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

restaurants

Small (& Guilty) Pleasures at Monforte on Wellington, in Stratford By BRYAN LAVERY Photography by NORA CAMPS

nother renaissance of sorts is now afoot just off the town square, in the premises formerly occupied by the Evergreen Terrace on Wellington Street in Stratford. Monforte on Wellington is a casual seasonally-inspired osteria featuring an ever-changing selection of artisanal cheeses, charcuterie, pastas, salads, soups, preserves, pickles and other signature specialties, prepared by Chef Phil Philips and Monforte’s culinary team. Chef Philips worked in the kitchen at Bijou and has trained under Jamie Kennedy. The kitchen pushes the farm-tofork boundaries further than anything we have experienced in Stratford, developing a synergy between the local terroir and the diner, inspired no doubt by the resolute cheesemaker, Ruth Klahsen, whose deeprooted affection for all things sustainable, local and artisanal seems to continue to both fortify and nourish her creative drive

and innovative entrepreneurism. Osteria is the Italian term for the most casual and down-to-earth of restaurant classifications. Montforte Dairy Head Cheesemaker Ruth Klahsen Traditionally an embraces architect Aziza osteria provided Chaouni, the designer of lodging and Montforte On Wellington served simple and inexpensive food and wine. In Italy, I first became enamored with this style of restaurant travelling through the regions of Emilia Romagna, Molise, Umbria and Abruzzi. The osterias I gravitated towards in Italy were mainly located in the countryside and were informal gathering places, often with certain common traits: short menus, local

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and seasonal house-made specialties, and sometimes but not always, meals served at communal tables. Designed by Aziza Chaouni and crafted by architectural students from the University of Toronto, the furniture at Monforte on Wellington is made from reclaimed wood and donated pallets, contributing to a hand-crafted décor of mostly recycled and repurposed materials. The brightly coloured upholstered benches add a touch of pizazz and accentuate the whitewashed walls. The ceilings are high with interesting spiderlike fixtures with bare bulbs and a large picture window faces the street. The kitchen is open to the dining room and there is a passageway beside the kitchen leading to a 35-seat courtyard with umbrellaed tables for al fresco dining. The 35-seat main dining room has a sophisticated straightforward charm with a “We’ve got to get ourselves back to the garden” vibe. There are two or three main chalkboard features each day, prepared from what is seasonal, local, foraged and fermented. Many of the products are made in-house or sourced from community farms and artisans. On one visit we sat on the terrace and the kitchen staff delivered a pair of cheese and charcuterie boards. They provided us with a friendly in-depth tutorial about the provenance of each ingredient. The rich and flavourful charcuterie included a mound of perfect fatty cubed pancetta, a succulent slab of savoury headcheese (which brought back memories of my grandmother’s kitchen), and farmer David E. M. Martin’s pancetta served with house-made crackers and tiny pots of honey, mustard and red pepper jelly. A selection of luscious, earthy and creamy cheese on offer included Piacere — Monforte’s own take on the classic French cheese Fleur du Maquis and a creamy Black Sheep rolled in vegetable ash. True Blue, made with Sunnivue Farm’s water buffalo milk, was firm, salty and herbaceous. Klahsen’s philosophy is to “use only seasonal milk from humanely treated animals” for her cheese. The cheese selection varies depending on availability. I ordered a grilled cheese sandwich with both fresh cheese curd and Paridiso. A variation on the classic Italian Taleggio, this semi-soft, washed rind cheese has a piquant bite. Wild leeks, sometimes called ramps,

The seasonal menu always includes two or three chalkboard features, such as a seared trout with beluga lentils, wild leek scapes, and radish pods (third photo from the top). The cheese and charcuterie boards are popular choices, augmented with hand-crafted crackers and tiny pots of honey, mustards and jellies. made a delicious and pungent pesto that was the perfect accompaniment to the sandwich. Dandelion greens with rhubarb vinaigrette, Soiled Reputation organic greens with wild leek vinaigrette and a silky asparagus soup have also vied for my attention. We loved the rich, buttery water buffalo ice cream that can be ordered with either a

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demi-tasse of chocolate sauce or espresso, served in artfully mismatched bowls with melt-in-yourmouth chocolate chip cookies. The restaurant is BYOW with a corkage fee of $15.00. If you order a glass of VQA wine they might bring you a full bottle and charge you for what you drink. The wine selection is limited and there is

Stratford is more than great theatre.

“This kind of brings things full circle for us.” — RK a good selection of craft beers. They retain a strong local focus on drinks to keep them consistent with the kitchen’s offerings. We loved the “Fizzy Water” which was 50 cents a glass. There is an area at the front entrance that retails Monforte cheeses, Bauman honey, preserves and other interesting jarred goods-to-go. “This kind of brings things full circle for us,” says Klahsen referring to the restaurant. “For example, when we make cheese we have leftover whey, which we feed to pigs, which can become charcuterie. And the same farmer who raises the pigs grows wheat, which we can make into crackers.” The osteria opened in Stratford in early April. In June, Monforte opened its first stand-alone store in Toronto, in Liberty Village. If you like ethical farm-totable dining that won’t break the bank, Monforte on Wellington, although in its fledgling days, is well positioned to be a hands-down frontrunner in Stratford’s culinary scene. BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large.

Monforte on Wellington 80 Wellington Street, Stratford 519-301-7256 www.fb.com/MonforteOnWellington open for lunch & dinner daily, 9–9; open until 11 pm friday & saturday

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

restaurants

From Kimchee to “Soup to Get Sober” Korean Restaurant and Manna Grill, in London By bryan lavery

he flavours and textures of Korean food are exhilarating. In London, Manna Grill has been a local Korean hot-spot in its present incarnation for over a decade. The owner recently told me cheerfully, “I am good for another ten.” She had been sitting behind us partaking in a celebratory meal and was now smiling, modelling and tapping her toes in pair of silver sparkly sandals that she had just “borrowed” from a guest celebrating her birthday when I inquired about the availability of a take-out menu. (I often like to have these on hand as a reference). We love the casual service, friendly repartee and are devotees of the fiery kimchee, kalbi (barbequed beef short ribs) and bulgolgi at Manna Grill. Now there is a newer kid on the block serving delicious versions of bimim bap (bap meaning rice) and bulgogi. Lee Chul Wha’s Korean Restaurant at Adelaide Street and Hamilton Road seems to have more upscale aspirations and has garnered great word-of-mouth in its first year. This past spring, a gentleman who I met while having lunch at the River Room told me he had just moved to London from Toronto. He asked for a recommendation for good Korean food. I suggested the Korean Restaurant. He later e-mailed me to say that he and his son had ordered “the traditional bulgolgi and kalbi which came with brown

rice and all the side dishes … kimchee etc. It is the best Korean food I’ve had since my adventures in Korea. Cost was very reasonable. The other patrons were all Korean so that speaks to the quality of the food and service. “Gam sa hamida” (thank you, in Korean) for your heads up on this restaurant.” I have been told that the most authentic expression of Asian cuisine is often withheld from the inexperienced non-Asian palate. I have visited the Korean Restaurant many times and this does not appear to be the case. The Korean Restaurant is very welcoming and we have had many pleasant experiences, and the service for the most part is deferential and accommodating. Don’t expect your plates to be cleared away after a meal, as this does not appear to be part of the custom. This has provoked a long uncomfortable silence on more than one occasion. On other occasions we have had fresh fruit served to us after dinner — last summer it was delicious fresh slices of sweet, refreshing, in-season watermelon. Utensils for a typical Korean place setting consist of a pair of chopsticks and a long- handled spoon. Chopsticks are used to pick up meat, noodles and side dishes. Spoons are meant to eat undemanding foods and rice, and to sip broths and soups. At the Korean Restaurant, meals are accompanied with banchan, a half a dozen or

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so complimentary plates of traditional “side dishes” to graze on before the meal or more traditionally to use as condiments. Banchan are placed in the middle of the table to be shared communally. Typically, banchan are served in small portions (think tapas), and at the Korean Restaurant they are replenished during the meal at no extra charge. Kimchee, a mainstay of banchan, is the fiery fermented side dish (or condiment) prepared from a variety of vegetables, including cabbage, radish, and cucumber, and heated by chillies, ginger and other aromatic seasonings. There are hundreds of types of kimchee; taste and varieties vary by region and seasonality. Kimchee is an iconic staple in the Korean repertoire and it has helped define the county’s culinary and cultural identity. As Michael Pollan states in his latest treatise, Cooked [Ed: reviewed in this issue of eatdrink]: “If a food is going to help forge cultural identity, it must be an acquired taste, not a universal one.” Both the cabbage and the radish kimchee at the Korean Restaurant are crunchy (in lesser establishments I have often found the kimchee to be soggy storebought versions), and I could taste the chillies, garlic and ginger. Besides the kimchee being served as part of the banchan, I have sampled a version of chap chae (a classic sweet-potato-noodle salad), seasoned spinach, pickled radishes, cucumbers, tofu, fish cake and vegetable pan-fried dumplings. The perfect pork dumplings are in the same league as the house-made pork dumplings — which are also browned to pan-fried perfection — at Spring Restaurant, which serves Tianjinand Szechwan-inspired Chinese food (at Dundas Street near English Street). A classic and popular Korean dish is bimbim bap. This is a traditional dinner-in-abowl, with freshly- cooked crispy rice in the bottom of the bowl, topped with individual

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stacks of julienned onion, carrots, zucchini, and mung bean sprouts. A pan-fried sunny-side up egg is served on top and is accompanied by shredded beef. (I have also had the egg served raw, which cooks when it is mixed in with the ingredients in a blazing hot stone bowl.) Bimbim pap is typically served with a sweet and sour chilli paste called ch’o koch’ ujang and arrives at the table while the hot stone bowl is still sizzling. With most meals bowls of cooked rice and guk (soup) are served individually. Manna Grill, which is very casual, has a distinct Japanese influence on its menu. The Korean Restaurant, which is more upscale than Manna Grill, has brought in a new chef and expanded their traditional menu to include a variety of Chinese dishes. Some newer dishes on the menu have sauces that were sweeter and thicker than expected and it is my hope that this is not a reaction to unsophisticated Caucasian palates. Although I have not tried it myself, I have heard about the hangover soup (haejangguk, aka “soup to get sober,” first appeared in a manual published in the late Goryeo Dynasty, 918– 1392). This version (served with pollock), I am told, is a classic interpretation. Korean Restaurant 170 Adelaide Street North, London www.korean-restaurant.ca 519-642-7437 open daily 11 am to 10 pm except closed wednesdays Manna Grill 276 Wharncliffe Road North, London 519-439-5770 open daily 11 am to 9:30 pm Bryan Lavery is eatdrink’s Writer at Large and Contributing Editor. He can be reached at bryan@eatdrink.ca

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farmers & artisans

Crafting a Brighter Future Railway City Brewing Company, in St. Thomas By JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON

n one of the area’s towns hardest hit by the economic downturn, a little good news goes a long way. Plant closings and downsizing is usually the business news of the day, but here’s a tale of a small local company that is expanding its operations and hiring more staff. Railway City Brewing Company in St. Thomas has grown substantially since its inception five years ago. It was born as a partnership between Paul Corriveau and Al Goulding who began brewing two types of beer in a small 2,500 square-foot space. There are now four partners, six regularly brewed beers (along with several seasonally brewed), and by the time this is published it will all be housed in a 13,000 square-foot renovated space on Edward Street, “just a couple of blocks from where Jumbo was killed,” says Corriveau. The latter point is particularly poignant, as Railway’s most popular brew is called Dead Elephant in honour of the felled beast. Initially Iron Spike Blonde and Copper were introduced, soon joined by Dead Elephant, Iron Spike Amber, Honey Elixir

and Canada Southern Draft. Seasonal offerings include a winter stout and a summer wheat beer. Honey Elixir is partially made from honey from Windermere Manor’s hives. According to Brenda Brandt, corporate sales manager, the Manor’s Honey Stung Ale (their name for Honey Elixir) was previously produced by another craft brewer with inconsistent results, “but since we switched to Railway it’s been consistent and delicious. It’s a real draw for our café and has been really well received.” “We’ve grown faster than anticipated and [the current space] has limitations that we didn’t foresee,” explains Corriveau. Logistical issues necessitated moving to a larger space and adding five positions to the current 14 staffers. Happily, the two acres surrounding the renovated industrial building will allow Railway to have an open-air patio out front and event space in the rear for barbecues and car shows benefitting charities. As part of the company’s evolution, new investors were taken on and are now active in its management: Matt Janes oversees operations and company finances; Al Goulding is in charge of retail and packaging, and John Peart Paul Corriveau, Matt Janes and Railway City’s brewer Zach Trynda is company president.

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Cans ready for filling at the new facility

Corriveau, who handles marketing and sales for the company, attributes consumer enthusiasm in spurring this huge growth. “Interest in craft beer has skyrocketed. Consumers want something different, a unique taste and different styles. People are looking for something that’s not bland or mainstream, something that’s new and fresh made from local ingredients.” Using local ingredients, such as hops grown in Elgin County, is one of Railway’s secrets to success. Seasonal produce spurs new brews, like the Blueberry-Ginseng that was produced a few summers ago. Ginseng is a tobacco replacement crop, so Corriveau expects it to appear in more recipes. But growing the number of offerings isn’t the end game; ensuring their products are worthy of their fan base is. “We want to produce award-winning beers and attract people to the facility to promote tourism in this area. Craft

beer is like wine in that way. People want to see, taste and smell.” So far this mission has been successful, as Railway has consistently picked up multiple medals at the Speaker’s Craft Beer Challenge (Ontario Legislative Assembly) and the Ontario Brewing Awards. Craft beer aficionados can enjoy Railway products in 100 restaurants in Ontario, from Sarnia to Ottawa, (20 are within the eatdrink readership area), and pick them up in 200 LCBO stores. There is even one store in Saskatchewan that has them shipped in. You can also taste Railway beers at several events this summer, including The Ontario Renaissance Festival, London Beer and BBQ Show and the Great Lakes International Air Show. Or you can tour the plant. It is open seven days a week, but Corriveau advises that you call ahead to ensure enough staff are on hand to help you. Railway is beginning to offer more of their suds in cans for easy transport to picnics, cottages and boats. Dead Elephant and Iron Spike Blonde are already available in cans, soon to be joined by Canada Southern Draft. The canning process was previously outsourced but will now be done onsite. So it’s a good news day all around: craft beers are on the rise; a local company is growing and there are more places to enjoy their great products. JILL ELLIS-WORTHINGTON is a freelance writer and chief communicator for Write.On Communication Services International. www.writedoton.com

Railway City Brewing Co. 130 Edward St., St.Thomas 519-631-1881 railwaycitybrewing.com retail store hours mon–wed: 10 am–8 pm thurs & fri: 10 am–10 pm saturday: 10 am–8 pm sunday: 11 am–6 pm

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road trips

A Locavore Road Trip Filling Your Huron County Picnic Basket By JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE

ho says going to the lake has to be about going to the beach? Our favourite road trip to Lake Huron involves an empty pic nic basket, a cooler, a thermos, some books and a blanket. Give yourself a few hours, a tank of gas and follow our local foodie route. The result? A perfect locavore picnic in our favourite backyard — Huron County! Head north out of London on Highway 4 through Lucan and into Exeter. Here you can pick up a readymade gourmet pizza from Chef James Edding ton, owner/ operator of Eddington’s restaurant. No, he’s not in the take-out pizza business! But he makes an outstanding pizza featuring unique ingredients like potato slices and caramelized onions. Everyone loves Thurs day night pizza nights at Eddington’s. And cold pizza can be pretty great too! In our basket, chocolate is also a food group. Stock up at Sugar and Spice on Main Street in Exeter. You can also find their goodies at the new Charles Street Market in Bayfield. Cooler required! Keep heading north to Hensall where we have two favourite stops. At The Garlic Box, look for Peach Salsa made with fresh Ontario garlic. The tapenade is also delicious. They sell right out of their corporate office on Highway 4, just north of Hensall. If it’s not office hours you can pick up their products at Metzger Meats (our other favourite in Hensall) on Brock Street off

Highway 83 (the ZurichHensall line). Follow the signs to Metzger’s. Turn onto Brock Street at the huge blue building, Ice Cultures, where you can buy bags of ice for your cooler or take a tour of their ice experience. At Metzger’s pick up some house-cured salami: we love the traditional Hensall salami but for a zestier taste grab the Jalapeno salami and some hot pepperettes. Gerhard calls them pepperonis so that the corporate giants don’t sue him. With eleven smokehouses on the property, this is a meat lover’s dream. Moving towards the lake, a quick stop at Jerry Rader’s shop in Zurich nets us some of his famous butter tarts. These may not make it to the basket! You can also get a cup of coffee to wash them down. As we crest the highway and can see the lake, we start thinking about fish. Pull into the beautiful Hessenland Country Inn on Highway 21 at St. Joseph, and hopefully Chef Frank Ihrig can fill your thermos with his signature Lakefood Chowder made from the Lake Huron catch of the day. This is also a great spot for a cold beer and a quick stretch of your legs as you stroll the five acres of manicured lawns. From St. Joe’s it’s on to Bayfield, where we zip

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into the plaza next to Foodland on Highway 21. Here we grab two vital items: smoked fish from Out of the Blue, and a bottle of Pelee Island Secco from the Bayfield liquor store. They do sell it chilled. The best thing about Secco, besides its great taste and active bubbles? You don’t need a corkscrew to pop this cork! In Bayfield you can take a walk along Main Street and pick up: • Gunn’s Hill Cheese (made in Oxford and award-winning) at Black Dog Pantry; • Blyth goat cheese at Charles Street Market; • and more sweetness than you can imagine at Erin Bolger’s new bakery, Pink Flamingo. Try her pink lemonade signature flavours in lemon squares, sandwich cookies, buttercream cupcakes and more. Bolger is the author of the fabulously fun cookbook, The Happy Baker, and has baked her way into our hearts with stories of dating and dining. On towards Goderich now and we stop in at the Bayfield Berry Farm — which is a few miles inland (just follow the signs) — where you can pick up house made cherry juice along with berries in season. Nothing goes better with our Secco then berries Yum. Continued on page 34, after the Blyth Festival ad ...

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Continued from page 31 ... Our picnic destination is the Rotary Park at Goderich, right by the marina. It offers a boardwalk, beaches, shady trees and playgrounds. But first we need to head about five miles past Goderich to Red Cat Farm, where Sophie will supply us with some delicious European breads made in their imported German oven — complete with rainwater mist infusion! The bread is extra crispy and a meal in itself. With our cheese, fish and salami, this is going to be outstanding! Back in Goderich we pull into the famous Culbert’s Bakery for some doughnuts. We’ve already eaten the butter tarts from Rader’s so we really need a bit more sugar! ) Finally, it’s picnic time! If you find yourself wanting to stay late to enjoy the sunset then you may want to ease your way back to Bayfield for a late night respite at The Red Pump. Not only does it have a fantastic patio but the guest rooms are spectacular. Another great day on the road in Huron, and no kitchen to clean up! JANE ANTONIAK is the Manager, Communications & Media Relations, King’s University College at Western and a regular contributor to eatdrink. BRUCE FYFE is a contributing photographer to eatdrink and a librarian at Weldon, Western University.

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travel

Beer & Spirits, Michigan-Style Exploring the Great Lake Bays Travel Region By JANE ANTONIAK | Photography by BRUCE FYFE

ow do you know when your collection has gotten a bit out of hand? When you have to build a tavern to hold it! That’s what happened to Bill and Elaine Fournier of Bay City, Michigan. Their love of antiques led to Bill amassing a collection of beer steins, which grew so large he created the Stein Haus beer garden restaurant on Water Street to house it. With more than a thousand steins wired onto the walls, hanging from the ceiling and displayed on shelves, it’s an impressive spot. He has another 1,400 steins in storage and he hasn’t stopped collecting yet. “We started with a few beer steins and it blossomed from there,” says Elaine Fournier. The Stein Haus offers sixteen beers on tap and over one hundred varieties in bottles including locally crafted, German and domestic beers. Add a plate of delicious schnitzel, red cabbage and warm potato salad and you are quickly transported to a German beer garden without leaving Michigan. “People come here for a good, social time,” says Elaine. The addition of live music and a patio makes Stein Haus a popular destination for all ages. Bay City is not on a bay, but on the Saginaw River (where the Fourniers also run dining cruises out to Saginaw Bay on Lake Huron). It’s a hip little town Schnitzel Red Cabbage and Warm Potato Salad

The Stein Haus, in Bay City with a lively downtown strip featuring locally owned cafés such as World Café International Bistro with Lebanese styled menu items, and St. Laurent Brothers nuts and chocolate shop where you can buy bags of candy sure to make you feel nostalgic. This is all part of the Great Lake Bays travel region (www.visitgreatlakesbay.org) where you can “tour the triangle” in your car between Bay City, Midland and Saginaw. A perfect stop on the route between Bay City and Midland is Shari at The Willard Hillton restaurant near Auburn, where Chef/Owner Shari Smith, Executive Chef Jacob Austin and Pastry Chef Maria Austin have created an exciting dining experience in “the middle of somewhere.” Don’t blink or you will miss it and that would be a shame. The team grow their own produce and herbs from seed and pride themselves on serving delicious, healthy food. “Build

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Chefs from the Willard Hillton it and they will come,” states Chef Smith. “I used to come to this old hotel when I was a kid. Years later I told my realtor that I wanted a place like the Willard Hillton. He said, ‘It’s on the market.’” The 135-year-old former Beaver hotel and tavern is known to have “two ghosts for sure,” says Smith, and her staff fully agree. “We’d hear footsteps, when we first moved in, and it would drive us nuts. Then we met families who told us about the ghosts, and guests who say they can see them.” The so-called town of Willard (think intersection) bills itself as Michigan’s last ghost town. The hotel was jokingly called the Hilton and then Shari had to add an extra “l” to the name to avoid lawsuits.

The dining room features classic European cuisine. Orange harissa shrimp, slow roasted strawberry barbequed pork and goat cheese egg rolls, and hickory roasted duck breast are among the menu offerings. The wine list is extensive. Chef has recently added cooking classes. After a great evening at the Willard you’ll be looking for a place to spend the night. The immaculate H Hotel in Midland is an unexpectedly upscale des tination in a quaint town. This five-star property is owned by the area’s main employer, Dow Chemi cal, which maintains the top floors for their visit ing execu tives. Check out The Table Restaurant with its wine room and temperaturecontrolled wine cellar. The next The dining room of the day it’s off five-star H Hotel in Midland for a fullscale taste of Bavaria, with more chicken then you can imagine, in Frankenmuth — located near a popular outlet shopping centre, Birch Run. Here you can enjoy some “Lutheran Lemonade” at Frankenmuth Brewery, proclaimed the oldest brewery in Michigan by the enthusiastic man ager, Ryan Buchinger. Try a flight of craft beers including Hefeweizen ale, Munich style Dunkel lager, Batch 69 American style IPA and American blonde ale. If you have some kids along, or a DD, be sure to try Frankie’s root bier, microbrewed in house. You can take home a growler, which you can get filled on Wednesdays for only five dollars. The brewery offers incredibly hearty meals with fresh Bavarian style pretzel Try a flight of craft beers, at Frankenmuth Brewery

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balls served with spicy The Bavarian Inn platter mustard — helps to soak up the beer! Try the mountain high meat loaf sandwich or the Bavarian bratwurst. If you have room, fit in a root bier float. A stroll along Main Street is required after this meal, and before you even consider tucking into dinner — which is a must in Frankenmuth. Famous chicken dinners are offered kuchen recipe. “The by the two branches Three generations of the Zehnder family welcome first time you come of the Zehnder guests to the Bavarian Inn and Restaurant here you have the family. Dorothy chicken dinner. The Zehnder, a whirling next time you have the ultimate platter,” dervish at ninety-one, who still works she says. It features smoked pork loin, each day, and her clan, led by son Bill and sauerbraten, bratwurst and schnitzel. granddaughter Amy, operate the Bavarian The Bavarian Inn is celebrating its 125th Inn and Restaurant. Their cousins operate anniversary and has grown into a large hotel Zehnder’s Restaurant across the road. To complex with multiple swimming pools, put this phenomenon into perspective: water slides, games rooms and gift shops. the Bavarian Inn serves 600,000 meals Guest rooms are named after the numerous annually! Dorothy has her own popular cookbook and people clamour for her apple German families who still live in the area. Aside from all the food and drinks, Frankenmuth is an interesting community with deep roots in the Lutheran faith. Our guide, Herb Zeilinger (who is thrilled to have a room named after his family at the Inn) informed us about Frankenmuth’s rich German history. A visit to the impressive St. Lorenz Lutheran Church, which depicts the history of the region through its stained glass windows, is worthwhile. All in all, it’s a fun weekend getaway within a few hours of the border crossing at Port Huron. www.visitgreatlakesbay.org JANE ANTONIAK is a culinary travel writer for eatdrink. She is also Manager, Communications & Media Relations for King’s University College, Western. BRUCE FYFE is a regular contributing photographer to eatdrink. He is also a librarian at Western University, London.

Zehnder’s Restaurant

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The BUZZ ... new and notable

he latest word on local chefs, restaurants, farmers’ markets, food shops, and culinary events. Send tips to blavery@eatdrink.ca and follow us for up-to-theminute news on Facebook and Twitter.

There is nothing like “dining al fresco” when the weather really heats up, and London has superb outdoor dining. There’s a very strong café culture in the city, with a diversity of outdoor culinary experiences for everyone. In the summer, you can enjoy dining at a sidewalk café, in a secluded courtyard setting, under a pergola, or on a roof top patio or charming side-street terrace. London city staff continues to study how best to turn curbside parking spots into seasonal outdoor patios for restaurants and bars across London, an opportunity that is available downtown again this year. The Early Bird and Kevin and Denise Greave’s Jambalaya were part of the successful initial pilot last year and are up and running again this year. It also seems likely that boulevard patios will expand into Old East Village. Restaurateurs and some politicians hope it will help invigorate Dundas Street, one of the core’s critical stretches of commercial properties. Downtown, Gregg and Justin Wolfe of The Early Bird diner and Rob D’Amico and Dave Lamers of Abbruzi Ristorante, and in the Old East, Jeff Pastorius of The Root

Cellar are all proponents of the city looking at fresh alternatives for boulevard cafes, such as placing tables and chairs against their buildings and constructing pedestrian boardwalks that would wrap around the sidewalk (in a parking space) as other cities have successfully done. Restaurateurs like Long Phan of Tamarine by Quhyn Nhi would like to see the buses moved off Dundas Street to accommodate boulevard patios. Across the street from Tamarine, Joe and Sheryl Duby of Blu Duby are putting the final touches on their sidewalk patio as we go to press. Chef Danijel (Dacha) Markovic of London’s Kantina Restaurant scored a victory in the ninth round of the Discovered Culinary Competition at Nella Cucina in Toronto and is now steps away from winning a cooking experience of a lifetime in Spain. Markovic moves on to the semi-finals of the event, a two-day match pitting 16 chefs from across the country on July 13th and 14th. Four finalists will compete for the grand prize: an all-expenses paid trip to spend a week cooking at a Michelin-star rated restaurant in northern Spain. Uber-restaurateur/caterer Jess Jazey-Spolestra of The River Room Café and Private Dining and North Moore Catering is in the planning stages for the Rhino Café in the premises previously occupied by the gift shop at Museum London. Jazey-

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Spolestra recently hired Chef Jamie Craig, formerly of the Stone Willow Inn (Wildstone Bar & Grill) in St. Marys. Chef Jeff Fortner has taken over the helm in the kitchen at Avenue Dining at the Idlewyld Inn. Diners know Fortner from stints at Blue Ginger, black trumpet, The Hunt Club and, most recently, The River Room. Habitual Chocolate and Fire Roasted Coffee’s new flagship café downtown at Talbot and King Street is slated to open late July. Pastry Chef Michele Lenhardt, formerly of The River Room Cafe and Private Dining, Black Walnut Bakery Café and Agora at The Art Gallery of Ontario, has been hired by Dave Cook as a chocolatier and baker at the new operation.

Ontario. They come from refugee camps in the mountains of Nepal, small villages in Africa, cities in South Korea and Afghanistan, and islands like Fiji, among other places. www.worldtailors.ca/our-story/ London’s first “Food Truck Rally” is slated to coincide with the opening weekend of the annual Western Fair, September 6–8. Eldon House is the ideal place for afternoon tea, served Tuesday through Sunday until September 1st. Enjoy traditional scones with locally made jams and butter, served with a variety of delicious teas on the elegant lawn of London’s oldest residence. Reservations recommended. (481 Ridout St. North, 519-661-5169)

Fresh n’ Wolfe is the new fresh, healthy, and fast brother of The Early Bird. Opening soon, it will be serving up sandwiches, paninis, soups, salads, smoothies and similar fare. Located in the front portion of the former Nite Owl. “Come in on your break from the office and grab yourself something great, and to go!” says proprietor Justin Wolfe. Byron Freehouse will be opening in mid-late summer. Owners Kathryn Banasik and Robbin Azzopardi are describing this new venture as “bistro meets sports bar with simplified food prepared in the freshest way possible, using locally sourced ingredients.” The sixty-five seat ``local`` will have a fifty seat patio. On Chef Joshua Sawyer’s menu expect to see such signature items as Grilled Fish Tacos, Thai Curry, Steak and Frites and Buttermilk Fried Chicken. Just down the street, Mark Kitching of Waldo’s on King and partner Mark Navackas are opening a new restaurant in Byron in the premises formerly occupied by Dar’s Diner, to be known as Waldo’s in Byron. Ilderton’s Rich and Deb Hunter made a bold decision to make The King Edward’s patio smoke-free this year. They also started offering a variety of beer flights, with five samples for only $8 plus tax. Since their taps are typically split 50/50 between Ontario craft beers and British Isles selections, you can do an Ontario flight, a UK flight, or a mix. www.thekingedward.com World Tailors is a group of courageous women from around the world who make World Cooks aprons, sold in London,

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Corelicious London is back. This local culinary initiative showcases downtown London restaurants exclusively. Enjoy a delicious three-course prix fixe menu at an amazing downtown restaurant! This promotion will run from July 5th to July 14th. www.corelicious.ca Londonlicious has been a success over the past several years, with participating restaurants completely booked with reservations. Londonlicious returns this summer from July 19th to August 11th. Don’t miss this opportunity to experience an array of three course prix fix menus from diverse restaurants for the amazing price of only $20, $25, $30 or $35 per person. A three-course meal is to be chosen from a select menu at each

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restaurant. Price does not include applicable taxes, alcohol or additional menu items. Reservations are highly recommended. www.londonlicious.ca Bill & Lisa of Noteworthy Wines are pleased to introduce Grady Vineyards, their latest California supplier, and will be hosting a private tasting event for licensees and restaurant owners on Tuesday, July 23 from 6:30 pm to 11:30 pm. To RSVP, call Bill at 519-914-1204 or email info@noteworthwines.ca. Signatures! A Taste Test of London’s Best raised over $10,000 to help people living with Parkinson’s disease across Southwestern Ontario. Signatures featured a diversity of local restaurants, eateries and catering companies at the Budweiser Gardens, offering their most popular dishes for all to enjoy. Denise Duncan, Job Developer, WOTCH Community Mental Health Services, would like to connect London restaurants to qualified and hard working individuals. They offer on-site job coaching and in some cases employers are eligible for wage subsidies to cover training. D.Duncan@wotch.on.ca

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The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market has a great variety of vendors and products, from meat (bison, elk, lamb, beef, and pork) to baking (artisanal bread, scones, muffins, gluten-free, and decadent treats). The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market is a producer-based market operated by Christine Scheer and has remained food- and farm-focused. For more information about The Covent Garden Farmers’ Market, including recipes and special events, please go to the farmers’ market blog, at www. coventgardenfarmersmarket.com. Also, check out the Covent Garden Market’s new website: www.coventmarket.com Festa Italiana is one of London’s marquee events and also one of the city’s liveliest and most anticipated festivals. Each year the popular event attracts over 35,000 attendees from across Ontario. Organizers are proud to share and showcase all that is Italian. The market square at the Covent Garden Market is transformed into an Italian “piazza” for a three-day celebration of Italian culture, cuisine, music, and dance on August 23 to 25th. www.festaitaliana.ca Colombian Festival will be held at Covent Garden Market on July 20th, 11:00 am–11:00 pm.

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A Festival of Poland, to be held at the Covent Garden Market on September 7th, is pleased to announce that Olenka And The Autumn Lovers will be performing at this year’s festival. Ten Up Sushi has reopened in Old East Village with a new menu that includes sushi and a wide selection of Chinese offerings for eat-in, take out or delivery. The Chi Hi is getting ready to open at 791 Dundas St (beside True Taco); the restaurant will serve bánh mì. This sandwich is a creation of French colonialism in Indochina, combining ingredients from the French (baguettes, cold meats, and mayonnaise) with indigenous Vietnamese ingredients, such as cilantro, chilli peppers, and pickled carrots. Speaking of True Taco, Luis Rivas and family are putting the finishing touches on their new location called True Taco “Authentic Comedor Latino” at 739 Dundas.

The Healthy Eating, Healthy Physical Activity (HEHPA) initiative of the Child and Youth Network has been supporting the Westminster Working Group since 2011. HEHPA works to promote changes in physical behaviour and eating habits to promote healthy, happy living for children, youth, and their families. By coordinating with the Westminster Working Group, grassroots community projects can be created. These projects can be executed on a small scale, to have big impacts. HEHPA supports the Southdale Farmers’ and Artisans’ Night Market to help bring fresh produce and a sense of community to the Westminster neighbourhood, which has been identified as a food desert. This means that

All ’Bout Cheese is the latest business to expand from the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market (WFFAM) and transition to its own stand-alone retail outlet. Rick Peori has been retailing cheese at the WFFAM since 2006. All ’Bout Cheese will still be in the WFFAM on Saturdays but the new shop (across the street) will operate Tuesday to Saturday. There also are plans for a take-out lunch menu and cheese-making classes. Miki and Agnes Hambalek from Taste of Hungary at the WFFAM will be opening a butcher shop/deli next to All ’Bout Cheese. The Taste of Hungary features take-out and sumptuous Hungarian-inspired food specialties. Agnes, a professional baker and pastry chef, is a well-known caterer. WFFAM vendors Theo and Gerda Korthof recently opened the very successful Artisan Bakery , just a block west of All ’Bout Cheese. Western Fair Farmers and Artisans’ Market’s Bliss Gluten-Free vendor Shari Blanchard has returned to the Masonville Market this season. Blanchard has utilized her over 25 years of food service expertise to innovatively create gluten-free, dairyfree, and refined sugar-free treats from revised recipes which she in turn handcrafted from scratch. Other WFFAM vendors at the market include Burdan’s Red Cat Bakery, Leamington Produce, Jake’s JCJ Apiaries, Edna’s Lorimer’s Adventure Produce and Anything Grows.

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there is no grocery store located in the neighbourhood and no local transportation that will take a resident directly to a grocery store. The access to healthy food greatly impacts the health of a neighbourhood and it is on that note that the Southdale Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market was formed. The Westminster Working Group wanted to make a local food hub where neighbours could meet and shop. The Westminster Working Group will be operating the Southdale Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market every Thursday from 3:30 pm to 7:30 pm during August and September in the parking lot across from Paramount Fine Foods. This community-driven night market helps the residents to know

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that their efforts within their own neighbourhood can be an influence on the lives of many. The Raja is London’s elegant Indian food hot spot, where the traditional cuisine and gracious service are a suitable match for the well-appointed decor. To make dining even more pleasurable, Raja is now offering a 4-course RAJALICIOUS Dinner for $29. The first course: Crispy papadum with 5 dufferent chutneys; 2nd course: appetizer or soup; 3rd course: main dishes served with rice, vegetable and Naan bread; 4th course: choices of desserts. www.rajafineding.ca Local Food Feasts catering is a social enterprise business that evolved from Local Food Skills, inspired by a passion and commitment to local seasonal food. The Local Food Skills program provided by London Training Centre is free to people exploring jobs or careers in food. This full-time threeweek program provides skills training, industry certifications and learning experiences from farm to fork, including fundamental culinary skills, foodservice styles, growing, harvesting and retailing food at a farmer’s market. Revenues from caterings go entirely to support the Local Food Skills program. www.localfoodfeasts.ca/html/video.htm. Visit their new website www.localfoodfeasts.ca Strathroy Farmers’ Market is one of the area’s oldest open air farmers’ markets and has operated since 1861. The market takes on Market Square behind the town hall in Strathroy on Saturdays from June to October 26th. The market (open 8am–12 noon) is a member of Farmers’ Market Ontario. Ogilvie’s Food & Artisan Market is the latest addition to the culinary scene with a complement of year round indoor vendors and an additional 60 vendors at the seasonal outdoor market. There is a large patio with landscaped gardens to sit and relax while enjoying the market experience in London`s north west. Ogilvie’s is located at 1331 Hyde Park Road, south of Gainsborough. There are additional parking spaces at The Crossings just under the railway overpass. Open Saturday 8 am–5 pm and Sundays 9 am–3 pm. Pepper Tree Spice Co. (formerly Hyde Park Spice) announced the opening of their second location at 223A Colborne Street, Port Stanley. Thanks to its ongoing success over the past three years

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at the WFFAM, sharing over 300 organic spices, herbs, seasonings and artisanal blends, Pepper Tree has been patiently waiting for the right opportunity to grow again. To date the response has been overwhelming to their organic, natural, additive-free, saltfree and gluten-free products as well as their line of gourmet organic oils and condiments. www.peppertreespice.com. Yoda Olinyk is the chef, owner and sole proprietor of Yoda’s Private Catering. After working in various restaurants in London, St. Marys and abroad, this past spring she left a position at The Only On King to devote herself full-time to her catering business. Her kitchen/storefront is now open at 161 Ross Street, St Thomas. In addition to catering, Yoda’s offers locally-sourced Pre-Made Meals, available for pick-up Tuesday–Saturday, or for delivery to London and area. Contact yodathechef@gmail.com or visit www.letyodacookfor you.com. FreshFest is a celebration of local farmers and the food they grow, presented in partnership with area chefs, vintners and brewers. The signature food event started in 2009 and each year has included an evening of delectable tasters, live music, culinary workshops and fundraising events in support of the CASO Railway Station in St. Thomas.. For FreshFest’s fifth anniversary, the evening tasting experience returns this year with more music plus two more days for a three-day festival, July 19th to 21st. The FreshFest Weekend will be a collaboration of good eats and good fun with partners the North America Railway Hall of Fame (CASO Railway Station), Horton Farmers’ Market and Elgin County’s “Savour Elgin.” FreshFest Friday Tasting Event showcases local food, culinary conversation at workshops in the “Waiting Room,” and the sweet welcoming refrains of Don Durkee & Tom Stark, Shuug and the Temporary Men’s pleasing blend of “County Music” and a surprise not-to-be-missed headliner. Friday July 19, 5:30–11 pm at the CASO Station. Horton Farmers’ Market Morning — Enjoy a FreshFest breakfast and other special events at Horton Farmers’ Market, Manitoba Street, St. Thomas, Saturday July 20, 8 am–12 noon. The Sheridan Band is celebrating their 10th anniversary with a CD release and a FreshFest Saturday Boardwalk Party with their high-energy Celtic music. The evening also includes an Elgin County Pie bake-off and auction, BBQ dinner, cold refreshments and sweet treats from the bakers of Elgin County. Saturday July 20, 5:30–10 pm at the CASO Station. Savour Elgin Culinary Mystery Tour — Load up the car with your children or friends, take a trek to the country where our food is grown, and follow your map on one of three Savour Elgin Mystery Tours. Friday July 19 to Sunday July 20. Chef Ian McGill has stepped down as Chef of London’s Bray wick Bistro to head the kitchen at Backstage in Stratford. Eddington’s of Exeter is open for lunch all summer long, with a new seasonal menu getting rave reviews. Gourmet Pizza is served Thursday nights, and fresh Lake Huron Pickerel on Friday nights, but check out their Events Calendar for upcoming theme nights. www.eddingtons.ca

Your love of all things Italian begins at

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The 7th Annual Stratford Garlic Festival takes place Saturday September 7 & Sunday September 8. Celebrity Chef presenters include Elizabeth Baird (Canadian Living), Rose Murray (author/chef), Emily Richards, and Chef Darryl Fletcher (Chef D-TV). Enjoy garlic braiding workshops, garlic growing presentations, Ontario Garlic Market, and a celebrity chef competition (chefs TBA). For more info, including the extensive musical lineup, go to www.stratfordgarlicfestival.com

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Chef Bryan Steele and Sommelier Peter Lavoie have invited some of their favourite wineries from around Ontario to The Prune Restaurant for a Winemaker’s Dinner Series. Dinners will complement the wines three boutique wineries, from Niagara (Pearl Morissette Niagara Vineyards on Friday, July 26), Erie North Shore (Muscedere Vineyards on Friday, September 20), and Prince Edward County (TBA). For more info, visit theprune.com/events.php or call 519-271-5052 and ask to speak with Peter. The Prune has also started a Plates and Grapes evening every Thursdays starting at 7:30pm. Food ranges from $10-$15/ plate, while wine ranges from $5/3oz, $10/6oz. For weekly menus, visit theprune.com/plates-grapes.php Congratulations to former Stratford Tourism Alliance Culinary Program Development Coordinator Danielle Brodhagen on her new position as the Director of Product Development at Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA). Flavours of Stratford — Two guided walking tours present locally produced culinary delights from unique food destinations and passionate artisans. Morning tours run 10:30–1:30 pm. Afternoon tours run from 2:30–5:30 pm. Conclude with a custom sandwich and sample of craft beer or wine. $36/person, Wednesday-Sunday during July and August. www.visitstratford.ca/attractions Monforte Savouring Sundays — Join Monforte foragers on an edible journey discovering seasonal foraging with a sustainable focus. Monforte Dairy, 49 Griffith Rd., from 11 am–1 pm. $25/adult & $12.50/child. Enjoy a VQA winery tasting paired beautifully with a selection of Monforte Artisanal Cheeses. Monforte on Wellington, 80 Wellington St., from 2-4 pm. $25/adult & $12.50/child. Gather for a Forest-to-Table Adventure: a four-course Sunday dinner featuring locally foraged finds, handcrafted cheeses from Monforte Dairy and Ontario VQA wines. $50/ adult & $25/child. Enjoy foraging on its own or continue savouring Sundays with Monforte at the Wine & Cheese Pairing and during a dinner that features your own foraged goods. Savour all three for $100/person. Tickets can be purchased online at www.visitstratford.ca/attractions Participate in making fresh artisanal cheese and tour Monforte Dairy with esteemed cheesemaker Ruth Klahsen. Monforte Artisanal Cheese Making continues with a tasting of several varietals of Monforte cheeses. $25/person. Monfore Dairy, 49 Griffith Road. www.visitstratford.ca/culinaryadventures

Sun–Tues 11am–midnight, Wed/Thurs 11am–1am, Fri/Sat 11am–2am

The annual Flavours of Perth Pork and Corn Supper BBQ features local summer fare, famous steam engine cooked corn

www.eatdrink.ca

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on the cob and mouth-watering pies for dessert. Bid on your favourites in the World Famous Celebrity Pie Auction! This Stratford Perth Museum fundraiser is held at Shakespeare Optimist Hall from 5–7 pm. www.visitstratford.ca/attractions Take Time for Tea — Refresh and relax on the spacious back porch of the Ambercroft while enjoying exclusive English “Cream Tea,” featuring homemade ginger scones, lemon curd, empire biscuits and three specially selected teas. 25$/person at 3–5pm 129 Brunswick St. every Tuesday for the months of July & August. www.visitstratford.ca/attractions Stratford enthusiasts guide you on the Pubs, Pilsner & Spirits Tour, a walking pub crawl through Stratford’s Victorian downtown. Sample four Ontario craft beers as you hear about the spirited side of Stratford and the tumultuous brewing history of Perth County. $25/person. www.visitstratford.ca/pubstour Experience ancient rituals and learn about Herbal Infusions for your Health. Taste the local flavours of herbal teas that will calm, stimulate, build immunity, detox and heal — a guide to blending selected herbs as you create your own signature blend to brew at home. $75/person. Stratford Tea Leaves, 433 Erie Street. www.visitstratford.ca/culinaryadventures Candy Chocolate Barr’s Candies invites you into the kitchen to explore the techniques of hand crafting a favourite candy recipe in an exclusive custom designed workshop. No licking the spoon! After learning the candy maker’s secrets hands-on,

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indulge yourself in a take away selection of favourite candies and chocolate treats. $75/person. Chocolate Barr’s Candies, 136 Ontario Street. www.visitstratford.ca/culinaryadventures Join seasoned forager Peter Blush in Foraging for Wild Edibles as he searches for wild edible plants and mushrooms along southwestern Ontario’s Avon and Thames River Trails. Learn how to identify, harvest and, most of all, cook and taste these delicious wild delicacies. $30/person. www.visitstratford.ca/culinaryadventures Venture downtown to indulge in a Savour Stratford Culinary Trail. Sample your way along some of Stratford’s finest artisan shops, pubs and restaurants on the Maple Trail, Bacon and Ale Trail, or the Chocolate Trail. $25/trail. www.visitstratford.ca/savour-stratford Mark your calendar for the award-winning Savour Stratford Culinary Festival, presented by GE Café Appliances September 20–22, 2013. Celebrity chefs prepare innovative tastings, stroll through the outdoor farmers and artisans market, enjoy live music and more! www.savourstratford.com

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kitchen design

Choosing your Style and Finishes From Classic to Old World, From Traditional to Cutting Edge By SUSAN ORFALD

he first step in renovating your kitchen is the design plan, as discussed in previous issues of eatdrink. Selecting your appliances is important in this step. The next consideration is selecting the style and the finishes for your space. What style appeals to you? Is it traditional, transitional, urban, country, contemporary or modern? It is important to take the style of the house into consideration and to make selections which accentuate and complement the architecture and details of the home. The floor is an important aspect. Thought needs to be given to how it flows into the rooms adjacent to the kitchen. Also, think of the floor in terms of your lifestyle. Is there a

pool outside the kitchen area where people will be going in and out with wet feet? Whether you have small children or pets might lead you to make particular choices. The top selections for kitchen flooring are hardwood, cork, tile and natural stone. Hardwood works well with open concept designs in terms of flow between rooms. It is resilient, warm on the feet, and works

This Country French style kitchen has a mix of maple, cherry and pine wood, a concrete floor, granite countertops and a stucco canopy

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with almost any style of cabinetry. The drawback is that it can scratch and dent; but it has longevity, as it can be refinished over time. Cork is as comfortable as it is cushiony, and is renewable and sustainable since cork is harvested from the bark of the cork tree and does not harm or destroy the

Comfortable cork flooring compliments the cabinetry in this Traditional style kitchen

tree itself. Similar to hardwood flooring, cork can be pre-finished in the factory, or urethaned on site after installation. Tile or stone flooring are practical in terms of durability. They come in many sizes and configurations, and lend themselves to different styles. They can be heated from below, which makes them much more comfortable to stand on. Tile can be hard on one’s legs if standing on it for any length of time. The floor is a sort of “back drop” for the rest of the kitchen. If I am selecting materials for a whole house, I often start with flooring so that it has flow, or coordination, from one room to the next. The most prominent finish selections to consider are the cabinetry. I advocate selecting styles and finishes that have longevity, rather than being trendy, as a well designed and constructed kitchen should last 30 years or longer. You may choose to change the hardware or countertops after some time, but a well thought out design is an asset to a sustainable, long lasting kitchen.

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antiqued, glazed and distressed finishes for a traditional space. For distressing, cabinetmakers create wear marks, worn edges and other indentations to give the appearance of a well loved antique piece of furniture which has been well refurbished. Finishes can influence the overall atmosphere of a kitchen, from classic, refined and upscale to comfortable, relaxed and casual. There are many different door styles to consider as well. For a traditional setting, the most com mon styles are a solid wood raised panel door, or an inset panel door, English Country style, with porcelain tile floors & concrete countertops which combines a flat panel with a solid wood frame. For a more In a traditional kitchen, styles such as ornate design, applied mouldings can also Country French, English Country and augment a door style. Classic incorporate wood cabinets. Maple, In a transitional kitchen, the door style cherry, oak, walnut, pine or mahogany and finishes tend to be simpler. are popular choices. Poplar or maple A “shaker style” is very flexible, and can woods, combined with a medium density take on many different looks depending on fibreboard, are typically used when the materials and hardware. Inlays of different cabinetry is to be painted. Often different woods or metal can be added to doors woods are used within the same space to or other elements of a kitchen to create create more of an “unfitted” kitchen or the different styles or looks. look of accent furniture pieces. In a more contemporary setting, it is Finishes can be anything from clear more common to use veneers, as the doors lacquer coats to a variety of finishes with are typically flat and more conducive glazes to create furniture that looks well to veneers. Veneers are available in all worn, with sheens that range from a 10 degree previously listed woods, as well as bamboo, (or flat) to a 90 degree high gloss. The same sycamore, anigre (an African hardwood) options are available for painted finishes. and others. Many exotic woods are offered Select solid colours for a more urban look, or in veneers. Figured woods give the wood a “flamed” look. There is also a wide selection of laminates available for contemporary kitchens. Newer laminates include textured finishes that give the appearance of wood grain. For hardware (handles, knobs, pulls), chrome, brushed nickel, brass, antique brass or pewter, oil rubbed bronze or black finishes are available. I often refer to the hardware as the jewelry of the cabinets. It is usually the last accessory to be selected. Bamboo veneer cabinets, hardwood floors and a granite countertop

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In traditional kitchens you may choose more than one style or finish. Metals can be combined in a kitchen, in the same the way that different finishes can work together. Another big decision concerns the countertop. There are many choices available. The most popular are granite, quartz, wood, marble, concrete, solid surface acrylics, stainless steel, tiles, and laminate. Choices in countertops are very personal. You may like more of a solid or sand look, larger stones or chips yet very uniform, or a flowing, textured multi-coloured and patterned look — like a piece of art. Selections like this can really make a statement in your kitchen, or be subservient to other materials in the kitchen. If you are choosing granite or marble, I think it is important, especially if there is movement in the stone, to see the slab in it’s entirety. Most importantly, when deciding on your selections, take into consideration the dynamics of the cook and people using the space and how they will use it, as well as what is practical, what you like and what you will feel comfortable in for many years to come.

A Shaker style painted kitchen with walnut hardwood floor & granite tops with marble backsplash

SUSAN ORFALD is an Interior Designer with Hutton Bielmann Design Inc.

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

Beer matters beer matters

Sundry Summer Beer Sojourns Mondial de la Bière, in Montreal, and on ... By The Malt Monk

Platinum Medal • Gigantic Brewing Co. — End of Reason Belgian — strong ale, U.S.A. Gold Medals • Cervejaria Bodebrown — Bodebrown Wee Heavy — scotch ale, Brazil • Le Saint-Bock — Malédiction — sweet stout, Quebec, Canada • Schneider Weisse — Aventinus — Dunkel Weizenbock, Germany

he first major beer expo of the summer season, Mondial de la Bière, has wound down in Montreal and been rolled away for another year. The twentieth anniversary of what is arguably Canada’s premier craft beer celebration did not disappoint. One hundred and twenty exhibitors presented over four hundred crafted beers from around the world, including the big gun micros from the U.S. and Canada. It was great sampling fine artisanal ales in the boisterous camaraderie of beer loving brethren — and some of the best samples came from Canada. Also very impressive were the artisanal beers from Italy and Brazil, where craft brewing has taken off in a big way. Having a VIP pass helps in beating the line-ups in the crowded main areas of the Palais des congrès, so you can sample all the gold medal brews and local terroir. Here are the results of artisan brewing exhibitor competition:

• Beau’s All Natural Brewing Co. — Burnt Rock Vanilla Porter, Canada • Cervejaria Colorado — Colorado Guanabara — Imperial stout, Brazil • Dieu du Ciel! — Solstice d’Été — fruit infused Berliner Weisse, Canada • Brasserie de l’Abbaye de Brogne — Brogne 6.5 — Abby Blonde Ale, Belgium • Muskoka Brewery — Twice as Mad Tom — Double IPA, Canada • Le Cheval Blanc — Red Ale américaine — American Red Ale, Canada • Hopfenstark — Berliner Alexander Platz — Berliner Weisse, Canada • Boquébière — Hopkins Porter Fumé — Smoked Porter, Canada

World-class artisanal beer and local Que becois cuisine is well worth the jaunt to Montreal. I’d recommend a trip to the 2014 Mondial to any dedicated craft beer enthu siast. Here’s hoping some of these medalwinning beers will make appearances in local craft beer establishments this year.

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Barrel Aged Beers

Barrel aged beers seem to be in vogue with local craft brewers. Wooden wine and liquor barrels are full of many flavourful and aromatic compounds and tastes that, when added to beer, create another level of depth and complexity, and round out or mellow the beer’s character. Some recent notable examples:

Summer LCBO

Summer seasonal releases are arriving at the LCBO and they show great promise with a fine line up of international crafted brews hit ting the shelves in June. Most of these beers have scored 80 or better on the beer rating sites. Some notable must-tastes include: • Mikkeller Canadian Dream (320697) • Abbaye des Rocs Blanche Des Honnelles Strong Belgian Wheat Ale (318907) • Ommegang Iron Throne Blonde Ale (336032)

Niagara Craft Brewing

Another early summer junket took me to see the two newest craft breweries in the heart of Niagara wine country — Niagara Oast House Brewers and Silversmith Brewing Company — both conveniently located on the old Niagara Stone Road that runs through Virgil and Niagara-on-the Lake. Both had impressive small batch brewing set ups, which augurs well for the production of cask-conditioned ales. Oast House had a new release of Bière de Garde (strong Belgian farm house ale) as well as a new Smoked Irish Stout and a delicious Summer IPA — all unfiltered, all natural, flavourful and unique. Nothing beats sampling well-crafted beers fresh from the brewery. Silversmith had a new pale ale which really got my attention — massive apricot and pear tones with earthy hopping, very cidery. Schwarzbier was fresh and roasty but unfortunately the new Oyster Stout was still in the conditioners. I will return to sample this one. After tasting some of these two talented brewers’ new releases I believe they have great potential. Both have sampling rooms and retail stores at the brewery, but

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• Flying Monkeys Matador Cedar Aged Double IPA • Cameron’s Obsidian, a rum barrel aged Imperial Porter • Nickel Brook’s “Old Kentucky Bastard”, a Bourbon Barrel aged Imperial stout • Radical Road’s Canny Man, a barrel aged Scotch “wee heavy” • and most recently, Bush Pilot Brewing Company’s Barrel aged “Stormy Monday” Barley Wine.

• Howe Sound King Heffy Imperial Hefeweizen (333138) • Charlevoix Dominus Vobiscum Saison(333146) • Nøgne Ø Saison (322578) • Le Trou du Diable Shawinigan Handshake (322552) • Brooklyn Brewery Sorachi Ace (322537) • Chouffe Houblon Dobbelen IPA Tripel (325738) • Scaldis Blonde Triple (327601) • Les Trois Mousquetaires Hopfenweisse (333468) • Cuvée des Jacobins Belgian Lambic Ale (318758)

you can keep an eye out for their products at craft beer pubs and the summer beer fests in our area.

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Taste of the Month

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The Niagara region is not only a new hot bed of aged for over seven months in barrels sourced artisanal brewing, I have long maintained that from Domaine Dupont, France. The barreled the craft brewing studies and pilot brewery at batch was brewed at Niagara college and a non Niagara College were responsible for many of the barrel-aged batch was brewed at the Nickel good changes throughout the provincial craft Brook brewery in Burlington. Then they did a beer industry. Niagara College craft brewing 60/40 blend and bottled it. The results I sampled grads and instructors have had a major impact were phenomonal, and gave me this impression: on the Ontario craft brewing My sample decanted dark culture — expanding the opaque brown ale into the industry with style diversity, snifter; when held to light innovation, repeatable this is a beautiful hazed quality and new craft ruby color. Two-finger brewing operations. In tight-pored tan cap lasts keeping with this trend, a and laces (a rarity in barley new leading edge brewing wines). The operative word consortium involving for delineating this beer’s Niagara college brewing character is complex and personnel recently layered. The aroma is rich — collaborated to form Bush spice, dark fruit, succulent Pilot Brewing Company. fruit, herbaceous tones, Bush Pilot Brewing Company’s outstanding Bush Pilot Brewing is the first offering is Stormy Monday barley wine cocoa, layered malt aromas brainchild of Roland and — amazing. Overkill? The Russell artisanal beer aficionado Vlado Pavicic flavour tells the tale — from the front side to in collaboration with Niagara College brewing, the middle to the finish this ale is complex. The local crafters and famous brewing artisans palate is assaulted with a host of flavours from from around the globe. The concept is to have a piquant to subtle — spices, fruits, malts, herbs, celebrated brew master design a special brew and wood, vanilla, cocoa, hops, sweet, bitter and oversee its production at local craft breweries various impressions caused by these flavour in collaboration with local brewing artisans, amalgams — some new aroma or taste keeps creating a series of exceptional one-off brews. (A emerging as the brew warms — this holds great permanent brewery is in the plans.) The focus will promise for what cellaring will do for this big ale. be on big, unique, barrel-aged craft brews. This is big brash barley wine meets spiced ale Bush Pilot’s first offering was designed by meets barrel aging — complex verging on chaos. the legendary Danish craft brewer Anders An ambitious first offering for this brewing Kissmeyer, of Nørrebro fame. Stormy Monday company. I’m told they have a second offering is a fruited-spiced barley wine aged in Calvados in the works — a barrel-aged Doppelbock called barrels. A profusion of natural adjuncts are “Norseman.” used in this brew — star anise, bitter orange Bush Pilot will be the one to watch for truly peel, cocoa, cinnamon, dried fruit (quince, unique barrel-aged brews. apple, dates, raisins, figs), real vanilla beans, cardamom, juniper berries and local maple syrup are combined with several select malts THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a and hop varieties. At first blush this sounds like passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to flavour bomb overkill but consider that it was join in the dialogue at maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com/

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wine

Suggestions for Al Fresco Occasions Choosing Summer Wines, as the Host or the Guest By Bill Wittur

s summer kicks in, we shift our cooking and partying activities to the great outdoors. And many of us will pull out a slab of meat or organize our dinners without giving a thought to the wine we’ll have with it. This is a shame, because it’s important to remember that wine and other drinks play a number of important roles when it comes to getting the best from your summer foods. The greatest challenge today is working your way through the intimidating ‘wine wall’ at liquor stores. What to choose? Red or white? Does a higher price always mean a better wine? What locations should I choose? Or varietals? Or should I just stick with a blend?

Wine Picks for Summer Grilling In a second, I’ll leap ahead and look at some unique wines, but will remind everyone of the wine and food pairing basics that are (with a few modest exceptions) universal: red wines with red meat; lighter wines with lighter foods (e.g. salads, cheeses, appetizers and so on); dessert wines that are as sweet as (or sweeter) than the food.

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However, if you want to explore some of the nuances of truly enjoying a good bottle of wine with your meal, consider some of the history associated with wine and food consumption. The ‘Old World’ makers knew how to build wines that worked with food. Consumption wasn’t conspicuous: it had purpose. Wines were made with a delicate balance in mind. Vitality (wine talk for acidity) had to be keen enough to help wash away any dried or smoked products. Lighter wines with fruity tastes gained from the saltiness and spiciness of preserved foods. Fruit and body were in high demand, but didn’t have to overpower the foods of the day, so they didn’t have to be ‘maximum body’ wines. Many of our outdoor culinary efforts are a direct translation of these Old World sentiments, so it should come as no surprise that there are many wines — from places all around the world — that fit the bill for adequate pairing. The key is to offer a versatile selection.

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Build A Versatile Selection

Versatility speaks to trying to make most people happy most of the time (despite the adage that says otherwise). Every person enjoys different nuances of wine and the key is to find a small collection of products that will satisfy the broadest audience possible. As a host, you’ll be praised and you’ll save on time, anxiety and reputation. Key considerations with versatility include wine style (i.e. blends vs. pure varietals along with the colour or sweetness level), your audience and, of course, price points.

The List

Let’s start with a few reds. One of my favourites is BC’s Pétales d’Osoyoos (LCBO product #276741, $24.95). This is a classic “Bordeaux blend.” They take the best of grapes like merlot, caber net franc and cabernet sauvignon; a touch of petit verdot and malbec; and a healthy oaking period (20 months). The result is a beautiful, lush purple wine with deep plum and tannins that will go with almost every meal that has a red meat component to it. If you feel like splurging, I highly recommend the bigger sibling, Osoyoos Larose (LCBO #626325, $45.95). A good pick for an old-world wine is Zantho Fine Wine’s St. Laurent (LCBO #315556, $15.95). This is an extremely versatile wine that goes well with a wide array of outdoor foods, including your best red meats, but also chicken, pork and even smoked salmon. St. Laurent is a grape variety that many of us haven’t heard of, but it has similar properties to pinot noir, one of the classic French grapes that are perfect with most foods. It has more body, fruit character and this wine in particular has a great, long finish. Because it is getting harder to find a pinot that’s less than $20, St. Laurent makes a perfect substitute. Finally, you’ll need a solid red to carry you through the evening once the meal is done. Continue with either of the wines above or, to save on budget, consider Beringer’s California Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (LCBO #113001, $9.95). At this price-point, the wine is

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surprisingly decent and will prop up the evening as the sun wanes. Moving over to the whites, we have a favourite from a relative newcomer called Smoke & Gamble (S&G), from Dover Vineyards. The S&G White (LCBO #345637, $17.95) is essentially a chardonnay, but is modest with the volume of oak. It delivers a subtle, crisp and clean taste that is on the dry side, making it a wonderful companion to most of the lighter items in the summer diet. Another pleasant surprise from Ontario is the White Palette wine from 13th Street (LCBO #207340, $14.95). This is a gentle white blend of a number of grapes, focusing on riesling and sauvignon blanc. If you happen to barbecue a Margherita pizza, this wine will be a great match. Finally, for those looking for something a little different, but who also have price in mind, go to South Africa. This country is one of the oldest ‘New World’ producers and chenin blanc is one of its signature products. KWV makes a fabulous Chenin Blanc (LCBO #18689, $9.45) that will keep most white wine fans coming back for more.

A Little Less Civilized?

If you’re planning a trip out in the woods and getting away from the world, remember that bottles are at risk of being passé. That’s right. Look for alternative packaging in order to avoid the embarrassing situation caused by shards of broken glass everywhere, a lost corkscrew or the awkward heaviness of a load of bottles back and forth. Boxed wine, wine in cans or tetra paks, or wine in smaller volumes can help you enjoy what we all set out for this time of year: Canada’s great outdoors. BILL WITTUR is passionate about food, wine and fuelling conversations about both. He lives in London and operates Noteworthy Wines, a private wine agency and partnership focused on delivering unique, value wines from around the world. bill@noteworthywines.ca

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books

COOKED A Natural History of Transformation by Michael Pollan Review by Darin Cook

Carolina where ichael Pollan probably knows he gets his that many good things come hands into whole in trilogies. His latest work hog barbeque with legendary completes a three-book food pit master Ed Mitchell. Chopping bellies, journey he started in 2006 by following food loins, shoulders, and skin used in barbeque from its origins in nature and agriculture preparation, he works so frantically to with The Omnivore’s Dilemma, to the effects prepare barbeque sandwiches for ravenous it has on our bodies with In Defense of Food. crowds that he finds himself covered in pig Pollan has now written Cooked: A Natural oil at the end of the day. He even suggests History of Transformation (Penguin Press, the elegant concept of terroir, used mostly 2013, $29.50) to show us that the preparation in reference to wine, can apply to a pulled of food, the stage in between coming from pork sandwich, because the sense of nature and going into our bodies, could history that North Carolina has put into be the most vital link in the food chain. what real barbeque is all about is tasted in His previous research took him to farms, feedlots, and McDonald’s, but the legwork for those sandwiches. The chapter on Water gets him into Cooked started and ended in his own kitchen. Along the way, he got help from bread bakers, soups, sauces, and stews — dishes that barbecue pit masters, beer brewers, artisanal combine multiple ingredients in a pot to simmer in a bubbling liquid. Quite the picklers, and cheese makers. opposite of roasting a single joint of meat About experimenting in his own kitchen over a fire, cooking with pots, casseroles, Pollan writes: “Handling these plants and and tagines allows for a marriage of animals, taking back the production and ingredients which become unified with a the preparation of even just some part of braising liquid to create new flavours. The our food, has the salutary effect of making same can be said about the magic visible again many of the lines of of bread making. The chapter on connection that the supermarket Air informs us that along with and the ‘home-meal replacement’ yeast, water, and flour, a loaf of have succeeded in obscuring, yet of bread consists of 80 percent air; course never actually eliminated.” it is the magical ingredient that Cooking is a primal activity, using allows bread to rise and the air the fundamental sources of plants, pockets in bread are where the animals, and fungi with the core flavour and aroma reside. elements of fire, water, air, and earth Michael Pollan There is even an evolutionary to create everyday culinary works of theory uncovered by Pollan art. Pollan’s wish is that we embrace called “the cooking hypothesis”, which these sources and elements as a foundation claims that modern homo sapiens of sustenance in our own kitchens. evolved from early ancestors only after The elements actually provide the they discovered fire, started cooking backbone of the book’s four chapters: Fire, food, were able to quicken their digestive Water, Air, and Earth. Cooking with Fire processes, and had excess energy for brain takes Pollan to the barbecue pits of North

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development. Pollan writes, “Cooking in effect takes much of the work of digestion outside the body, using the energy of fire in (partial) place of the energy of our bodies to break down complex carbohydrates and render proteins more digestible.” Before the invention of food cooked over fire, our primate ancestors spent most of their day expending energy by chewing and digesting raw food. The Earth chapter is about the fermenting and pasteurizing processes used to preserve all sorts of food — sauerkraut, tofu, pickles, cheese, beer, and yoghurt. Fermentation originally occurred in the ground, graduat ing to crocks made of earthenware which are “really just earth once removed, cleaner and more portable perhaps, but otherwise the same basic idea.” Fermentation is also known as cooking with cold fire as there is no actual heat involved but foods like cabbage and grapes can be “cooked” with bacteria and live cultures into sauerkraut and wine. Pollan ends the book with brewing his own beer because “all four elements were represented in the beer-making process.

The barley is first cooked over a fire; the grain is then boiled in water; and the beer, after fermentation, is carbonated with air. Beer is the complete four-element food.” Above all, Pollan is interested in informing us how his research is good for our health and he does rail against pre-packaged, industrialized food as being detrimental to our well-being. He urges that “to cook for the pleasure of it, to devote a portion of our leisure to it, is to declare our independence from the corporations seeking to organize our every waking moment into yet another occasion for consumption.” Pollan believes that building our own meals from scratch is important, interesting and worthwhile, and that every meal is a piece of artistry and alchemy that nourishes us. He writes: “It is the very allusiveness of cooked food that appeals to us, as indeed that same quality does in poetry or music or art.” Darin Cook works and plays in Chatham-Kent and regularly contributes to eatdrink.

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

cookbooks

River Cottage Veg 200 Inspired Vegetable Recipes Written by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall Photography by Simon Wheeler Review and Recipe Selections by Jennifer Gagel

ugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is a British chef and television personality, writer, farmer, educator, and campaigner for sustainably produced food. In the late 90’s he settled at River Cottage and began a journey of ecology, economy and sustainability. Through the course of seven cookbooks and a handful of television shows, he’s farmed, fished and foraged for his dinner to show the rest of us how it’s done. Though he’s not a vegetarian, he advocates the consumption of less meat and fish. “Just ask yourself if you, or anyone you know, might be in danger of eating too many vegetables,” he quips in his latest book, River Cottage Veg. Referring to himself as a “notorious carnivore”, Fearnley-Whittingstall has long campaigned for the ethical and sustainable treatment of animals raised or caught for food. He is trying to change the way we treat our food animals, eliminating factory farms and fishing quotas that needlessly waste catch. In this book and an accompanying television program, he challenges himself to a whole summer without eating meat or fish. Rather than finding ways to replace meat he sets out to make vegetables shine. This is an all out embrace of the fact that delicious food can be made without the usual slab of meat dominating the plate. Without the meaty spotlight, meals are more likely to consist of small, complimentary dishes similar to tapas. River Cottage Veg is the result of the author’s evangelical mission to change your life. “Changing your prime culinary focus from meat to veg will require a shift in attitude - but not, I would argue, a very big or difficult one. It’s true that if you eschew meat and fish, you have to look at other ingredients with fresh eyes. You have to

take a new, more creative approach to them. But once you become accustomed to cooking vegetables as main meals it will soon seem like the most natural thing.” One third of the recipes are vegan and are marked as such. Many of the rest could be revised to be vegan with a few substitutions, mainly for butter and eggs. Photographer Simon Wheeler has worked with the author on several River Cottage books. Every recipe has a picture of the finished dish, or at least one variation of it, as Fearnley-Whittingstall offers different takes on many of the recipes. Ideas for vegetable dishes have been borrowed from all over the globe. There are curries from South Asia where much of the food has always been vegetarian. The chilies stuffed with beans are Latin-inspired with cilantro, cumin and hot smoked paprika bringing out the best of the beans. The middle-eastern flavoured tahini dressing is the star of the zucchini and green bean salad and would make an excellent dressing for many vegetables. River Cottage Veg is more than just a cookbook. It is a passionate statement about the state of the modern food system and its pitfalls. It is a challenge to all of us to make conscious choices about what we consume and what those choices mean to the world around us. And as luck would have it, more veg on our plates is delicious and good for us too. Freelance writer JENNIFER GAGEL works as a research assistant at London Public Library, and as a business process consultant at Cunningham MacGregor & Associates. Contact jennagagel@gmail.com

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Recipes courtesy River Cottage Veg: 200 Inspired Vegetable Recipes by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (Appetite by Random House, May 2013, $29.95)

Tahini-dressed zucchini and green bean salad Serves 4 For the tahini dressing ½ garlic clove, crushed with a little coarse sea salt 2 tablespoons light tahini (stir the jar well first) Finely grated zest and juice of ½ lemon Juice of ½ orange ½ teaspoon clear honey Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil For the salad 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 medium zucchini (about 14 ounces/400 g), sliced into 1/8-inch rounds Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Juice of ½ lemon 1 fresh red chili, seeded and finely chopped About 4 ounces/125g green beans, trimmed 4 good handfuls of salad greens 12 to 18 oven-dried tomatoes (optional) A handful of mint, finely shredded (optional) 1 To make the tahini dressing, put the crushed garlic into a small bowl with the tahini, lemon zest and juice, orange juice, honey, and a grind of black pepper, and stir together well. The dressing may thicken and go grainy or pasty, but don’t worry. Just thin it down by whisking in a little water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until you get a creamy, trickling consistency. Finally, gently stir in the olive oil. Taste and add a little more salt and pepper if needed. The dressing is now ready to use. 2 For the salad, heat the olive oil in a large nonstick frying pan over fairly high heat and cook the zucchini slices in batches, tossing them occasionally, for a few minutes until tender and browned on both sides, transferring them to a bowl once cooked. 3 When all the zucchini are cooked, season generously with salt and pepper, add the lemon juice and chili, and toss together well. 4 Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Tip in the green beans, return to a boil, and blanch for

1 minute. Drain, and then dunk in cold water to refresh. Drain again, pat dry with a clean kitchen towel, and toss the beans with the zucchini. 5 To assemble the salad, spread the salad greens in a large, shallow serving bowl and scatter over the dressed zucchini and beans, tomatoes and shredded mint, if using. Trickle the tahini dressing generously over the whole lot and serve. ED note: Oven-dried tomatoes are a cinch and can be used in so many dishes. Preheat the oven to 450ºF/230ºC. Slice as many tomatoes as you like in half lengthwise, from core to tip. Toss with salt and pepper to taste and enough olive oil to coat. Lay cut side up on a baking sheet. Bake until beginning to caramelize, 20-35 minutes, depending on the size of tomato used. Serve warm or refrigerate for later use.

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

Chiles stuffed with beans Author’s note: I like to use fat, mildly piquant, poblano chiles or piquillo peppers for this dish. But if you can’t get hold of stuffable large chiles, you can use small red or yellow bell peppers instead. Serves 6 as a starter, 2 or 3 as a main course 6 large, fresh poblano chiles 1 tablespoon canola or olive oil 2 or 3 shallots or 1 medium onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 6 ounces/150 to 200g fresh, ripe tomatoes 1 (14-ounce/400g) can beans, such as borlotti, pinto or lima beans, drained and rinsed A bunch of cilantro, chopped 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon hot smoked paprika Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the garlicky yogurt (optional) 6 tablespoons/90g plain full-fat yogurt or sour cream ½ garlic clove, crushed 1 Preheat the broiler to high. Lay the chiles on a baking sheet and broil, turning from time to time, until the skins begin to char. Leave until cool enough to handle, then carefully peel away the skins, taking care to keep the chiles whole. Cut around and remove the stalks and a flap of flesh to form a “lid”. Carefully scrape out all the seeds and membranes from inside the chiles and lids, and tip out any juice. 2 Preheat the oven to 350ºF/180ºC. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium-low heat, then gently sauté the shallots and garlic until soft, about 10 minutes. Slice the tomatoes in half and grate their flesh straight into the pan, holding back the skin. Simmer for a minute or two to reduce slightly. Remove from the heat. 3 Add the drained beans to the pan and coarsely mash some of them with a fork so they break up a little - don’t over do it, you want plenty of them to stay whole. Add the chopped cilantro, cumin, and paprika, mix well, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Carefully stuff the mixture into the chilies and top with the lids. Lay the stuffed chiles in a lightly oiled ovenproof dish and bake for 20 minutes. 4 While the chiles are in the oven, combine the yogurt with the crushed garlic and some salt and pepper, if serving, and set aside. 5 Serve the stuffed chiles hot, with a spoonful of garlicky yogurt if you like, and a crisp, green salad. ED note: Don’t worry if not all your lids survive the scraping out process. The bean filling toasts up nicely where exposed.

Roasted eggplant “boats” Author’s note: This is a really simple but delicious way to cook eggplants. Usually I serve them with fresh mint and yogurt, but I’ve also tried smearing them with a little homemade pesto, which is lovely. To make a meal of them, serve alongside a simple couscous salad, or just a green salad and some hot flatbreads. Serves 2 to 4 2 large eggplants (about 1½ pounds/700g) 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 or 3 pinches dried chili flakes, or ½ to 1 large fresh red chili, seeded and finely chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for trickling Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper To serve: 4 to 6 tablespoons/65 to 90g thick, plain full-fat yogurt, plus about 8 mint leaves, shredded, or 2 to 3 tablespoons pesto. 1 Preheat the oven to 375ºF/190ºC. Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise. Using a small, sharp knife, make a series of deep slashes diagonally across the flesh, going about twothirds of the way into the flesh, but not right through to the skin. You want to end up with 6 to 10 slashes, ½-inch/1 to 2cm apart in each, depending on the size of your eggplants.

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

2 Mix the garlic and chili with the olive oil. Hold one eggplant half in your hand and squeeze it from side to side so the slashes open up a little. Spoon some of the garlic and chili oil over the eggplant with a teaspoon, using the back of the spoon to work the oil down into the slashes. Repeat with the other halves. 3 Put the eggplant halves, flesh side up, in a roasting pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then trickle over a little more olive oil - there should be little or no unoiled flesh showing on each eggplant half. Roast for about 50 minutes, or until deep golden brown and completely tender. 4 Leave the eggplants to cool slightly. Serve them hot or warm, either dabbed with yogurt and sprinkled with mint and a touch more salt, or smeared with a little pesto.

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№ 42 | July/August 2013

the lighter side

Which Basket Case are You? By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD

ith the long sultry days of summer upon us, the tingly allure of a day at the beach or a road trip often beckons, usually presenting itself as a spur-of-the-moment notion to take advantage of good weather. No matter who you are or where you’ve lived, you likely have a picnic tradition: perhaps childhood memories of a special sandwich or the European habit of happily spreading lunch out on a blanket anywhere at all. Strong feelings exist around food and as a result there are numerous picnic styles — archetypes, if you will — that you may recognize either in yourself, or in the person you with whom you are dining al fresco.

The Picnic Masters — The person who

packs this lunch is definitely a find. (And a kind hello to my brother if he’s reading this!) A lightweight insulated bag unzips to reveal tiny goat cheese tartlets with sundried toma toes and a chilled sangria made from crisp local cider with fresh blueberries nodding in the decorative jar; obviously, these people never forget glasses. Blushing Muscat grapes in tidy pre-cut bunches, precision-cubed watermelon and ice cold potato salad vinai grette (mayonnaise might spoil) appear next, followed by a tiny angel food cake. There are triangles of toasted pita and a crock of home made hummus (dusted with rose paprika) for those who are merely peckish.

The Hunger Gamer — This style is sometimes seen amongst campers. Food has to be provided — and it is — but the entire affair has a kind of grisly desperation about it. Tins of strange and odd smelling stews may appear (politely decline anything with a German Shepherd’s profile on the label) and often utensils may be overlooked or just deemed unnecessary. I once had a boyfriend who brought a camping stove to our picnic and went on to further impress me by gently boiling quail eggs for a Salad Niçoise; how ever, when he nimbly decanted the same egg water into mugs for our tea (“saves time and you’d never know”) I knew this particular

episode of Brideshead would not be revisited.

The Romantic —

This style of eating differs from The Picnic Master’s in its nod to history and tradition. These are the softfocus people who actually own wicker picnic baskets with matching cutlery in the lid. They can often be seen wearing large brimmed straw hats, a vintage thermos flask looped through two fingers. Cold cooked chicken, tortière, crusty bread they purchased along the way and fresh figs or raspberries will be unpacked onto a cheery cloth. There’s a lot of effort in this style — and never any children. If done properly, onlookers assume that someone on staff at Downton Abbey has lovingly packed the whole thing up for them.

The Desperado — We’ve all been there.

In an effort to get out of the house, dull and boring items of food are quickly assembled and stowed into that old fashioned cooler that lies waiting in the basement, chuckling darkly to itself as we forget year after year that it takes three burly men to lift it before there’s even anything inside. Eerily flat peanut butter sandwiches will soon float desperately in the bottom — this cooler also leaks — amidst bruised apples, granola bars that no one really liked in their packed lunches either and some cans of no-name cola that are poised to explode. The sandwiches will be ritually disposed of at a nearby bin (unless someone feeds them to the seagulls, which never ends well). Thank goodness for the french fry shack where piping hot and reliably toothsome chips can be purchased and sprinkled with salt and malt vinegar. Harmony is restored once more. Whatever style you choose to embrace, be sure to take advantage of this fleeting, golden time of year — because even a store bought sandwich will taste far superior if eaten under a willow tree..

SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD is a freelance writer who also works in the London Public Library system. She lives in London with her teenage sons and a floating population of dogs and cats.

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