eatdrink #47 May/June 2014 by eatdrink inc.

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Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario № 47 • May/June 2014 www.eatdrink.ca

A Family Affair at

Saucy

Meats & So Much More

FEATURING

Garlic’s & La Casa

20 Year Celebrations

Edgar and Joe’s Café

Goodwill’s Social Enterprise in SoHo

Purdy’s Fisheries

Love of the Lake in Sarnia-Lambton

ALSO: The Oxford County Cheese Trail | Norfolk County Wineries | Antony John on The Food Web

SAVOUR STRATFORD

celebrates Spring Tap into fresh spring tastes sampling our culinary trails - The Maple Trail, Chocolate Trail and Bacon & Ale Trail; foraging for morels; cooking with celebrated Ontario chefs; and in June – Hog Wild Week! – Stratford's tribute to all things pork.

MAY

GE Café Chefs Cooking Classes, Chef Joshna Maharaj, Champion of Sustainable Food, Toronto

10-11

Spring Foraging, Puck's Plenty

GE Café Chefs Cooking Classes, Chef Dennis Tay, Richmond Station, Toronto

GE Café Chefs Cooking Classes, Chef Jordan Lassaline, Stratford Chefs School Instructor

Long Table Dinner, Stratford Chefs School

JUNE

14-15 Spring Foraging, Puck's Plenty 16-22 Hog Wild Week, various restaurants

18-19 Ontario Pork Congress

20-22 Stratford Blues and Ribfest 29

The Big Lunch, Stratford Perth Museum

Plan your culinary getaway

visitstratford.ca/spring

@StratfordON @SavourStratford

StratfordON SavourStratford

Authentic

CULINARY

EXPERIENCES FROM FARM TO TABLE, LONDON'S CULINARY CULTURE IS COOKING WITH LOCAL FLAVOUR

www.londontourism.ca/culinary

TOURISM

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@tourism_london

LONDON C A N A D A

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Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca Cecilia Buy – cbuy@eatdrink.ca Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca ethicalgourmet.blogspot.com Bryan Lavery – bryan@eatdrink.ca Chris McDonell – chris@eatdrink.ca Michael Bell – finance@eatdrink.ca Chris McDonell, Cecilia Buy Jane Antoniak, David Chapman, Darin Cook, Donald D’Haene, Dave Hammond, David Hicks, Antony John, Nicole Laidler, Bryan Lavery, Lori Maddigan, Kim Miller, Tracy Turlin, Allan Watts, Rick Weingarden Steve Grimes, Jason Mortlock, Jeff McCoy Kym Wolfe City Media Sportswood Printing, Straffordville ON 519 434-8349 525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6

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OUR COVER: Saucy Meats and So Much More! proprietors Andrew and Erin Jardine and their children at the family business in the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market in London. Photo by Steve Grimes. .

Kitchens Bathrooms Large Additions Victorian Restorations 519.860.9640 www.old-castle.ca

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contents

ISSUE № 47

F O O D W R I T E R AT L A R G E

By DAVID HICKS

By BRYAN LAVERY

ROAD TR I P

Three Delicious Slices of The Oxford County Cheese Trail By NICOLE LAIDLER

C U L I N A RY R E TA I L

A Family Affair at Saucy: Meats and So Much More! By LORI MADDIGAN

T R AV E L

By MARTHA McALISTER

FA R M E R S & A R T I S A N S

The Food Web: Global Connections & Biodiversity By ANTONY JOHN

Love of the Lake: Purdy’s Fisheries, in Sarnia-Lambton By JANE ANTONIAK

ZZ U B E TH 35

N E W & N O TA B L E

IN THE GARDEN

By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN

35 45

The BUZZ

Incredible Edibles: Old Favourites, and Some New Ideas

WINE 47

Sipping from Norfolk County: Three Expressions of the Grape

By KIM MILLER

B E E R M AT T E R S

By THE MALT MONK

Bocking the Trends: The Robust Charms of Bockbier

T H E AT R E 53

Perfection Is So Overrated: Donald DISHES on Theatre

By DONALD D’HAENE

BOOKS

Review by DARIN COOK

COOKBOOKS

Review by TRACY TURLIN

THE LIGHTER SIDE

By DAVID CHAPMAN

Goodwill’s Social Enterprise: Edgar & Joe’s Café, in London

Bem Vindo: A Warm Welcome in Portugal

Differentiated at Birth: Garlic’s of London & La Casa Ristorante

30 47

By BRYAN LAVERY

R E S TAU R A N T S

Good Taste and Good Sense: Championing “Local”

MAY/JUNE 2014

The Devil’s Picnic by Taras Grescoe

Bal’s Spice Kitchen by Bal Arneson

Good Night Chef

navigate great № 47 | May/June 2014

TIMES

Lambton County

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TOURISM SARNIA-LAMBTON

LET US GUIDE YOU THROUGH OUR VACATION PLAYGROUND!

1916 n – WWI, c. 70th Battalio 15 Top: Petrolia e, Sarnia, 19 us Ho ce en Right: Lawr

Doors Open Lambton County

Explore & Enjoy the Hidden Places & Spaces of Our County June 21 & 22, 2014

call or click for your FREE travel guide and map

also available at southwestern ontario visitor centres

1.800.265.0316

www.tourismsarnialambton.com/EatDrink

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№ 47 | May/June 2014

food writer at large

Good Sense and Good Taste Championing “Local” & Ontario’s Farm-to-Table Movement By BRYAN LAVERY

am a dedicated reader of Sarah Elton, who tracks the culinary zeitgeist for CBC Radio’s Here and Now, and has written for The Globe and Mail, The New York Times, Maclean’s and TheAtlantic. com. Her book, Locavore: From Farmers’ Fields to Rooftop Gardens, How Canadians are Changing the Way We Eat, was an awardwinning treatise on the local food movement in Canada. In Ontario, many cooks continue to develop imaginative takes on farmto-table eating while examining the roots of local cuisine and developing new region-specific specialties and products. They characterize the frontline of the contemporary culinary scene by rethinking the food chain, stewarding the environment and adding their voices to the collective Canadian culinary identity. Elton’s latest book, Consumed: Food for a Finite Planet, champions the movement away from global food production and presents an intelligent and engaging argument for the sustainable food movement and alternatives to the factory farming model. She travels to rural farming villages in India and China, to France, and to Detroit’s inner-city to document the transformative nature of food. This is an up-to-the-minute account of the politics and issues surrounding sustainable food production, food security and locavorism that offers some solutions. When I go out to eat, I am drawn to restaurants that support local farmers and food artisans by procuring and featuring local ingredients, products and VQA wines. Patronizing farm-to-table restaurants makes sense because it supports and sustains economic activity on a local level. Ontario has developed the Local Food

Strategy to help increase the profile, access to, and demand for local food. The foundations of this strategy are the newly approved Local Food Act, and the recently launched Local Food Fund. The Local Food Act is part of a strategy to build Ontario’s economy and agri-food sector by making more local food available in educational institutions, cafeterias, grocery stores, markets and restaurants. Its objective is to improve local food literacy, and encourage the demand for homegrown food, by requiring the Ministry to establish aspirational local food goals and targets in consultation with stakeholders that have an interest. The Act creates a nonrefundable tax credit of 25 per cent for farmers who donate their surplus harvest to eligible community food programs such as food banks. The policy also proclaims a Local Food Week that will take place annually, beginning the first Monday in June. A reference point for defining local was created with the passing of the Local Food Act and when the Ministry of Agriculture and Food committed funding to support the development of Ontario’s new Foodservice Designation Program (OFD) in partnership with the Ontario Culinary Alliance (OCTA). The program entitled Feast ON has similarities to the former Savour Ontario Dining program, which brought together diners and restaurants who share an interest in choosing and serving locally grown and produced foods in Ontario. The new OFD Program is a criteria-based designation system, designed to increase the profile and demand for local food by identifying restaurateurs and foodservice operators dedicated to procuring and serving Ontario foods and beverages and

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№ 47 | May/June 2014

whose particular attributes qualify their commitment to local food. Feast ON has engaged Community Connectors to support the objectives of the program by working with OCTA to gather data required to implement, manage and safeguard the OFD program criteria. Feast ON recognizes food service businesses committed to showcasing Ontario grown and produced food and drink. Restaurant operations in all their incarnations — from food trucks to fine dining — sourcing a minimum of 25% Ontario food products and 25% beverage products will be certified with the Feast ON seal, assuring consumers an “authentic” taste of Ontario. In addition to the Feast ON strategy, the ministry is determining how they can differentiate, classify and market Ontario’s terroir and authentic regional products. It seems a new provincial designation system will likely include a geographic indicator certification. This type of certification is an assurance that products possess certain qualities, are

made according to traditional methods, or possess particular characteristics, due to terroir or geographical origin. Ideally, certification would be similar to the European Union-adopted systems of geographical indications and traditional specialties, and our existing VQA structure of classification for wine. The purpose of certification is to safeguard the character and reputation of authentic foods, promote rural and agricultural activity, help producers obtain the best price for their regional products, and eliminate the misrepresentation to consumers by imitators and counterfeit products. Asiago, Feta, Fontina, Gorgonzola and Munster are the five new cheese names that Canada has recently approved to identify for its geographic indications as part of a trade agreement between Canada and the European Union. Existing producers won’t be affected but any new cheese names introduced will need to be qualified with descriptors such as “style,” “kind” or “type.”

Welcome to a TASTE of Downtown London! We are proud of the dining experiences our members have to offer. Whether you are looking for a farm-to-table meal featuring the best of local food and beverage choices, or a quick bite on the go, you can find it in our new dining guide. Drop by our office at 123 King Street to pick up your copy. You can also browse our menu guide and get personalized recommendations. You will also find more listings for our restaurants online at www.downtownlondon.ca.

123 King Street 519.663.2002 www.downtownlondon.ca @Downtown_London

DowntownLondon

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It seems to me that several of Ontario’s premier artisanal cheese makers have successfully differentiated their distinctive products with names based on each cheese’s unique characteristics, geographic, and cultural attributes by thinking in terms of terroir. In Italy, certification laws require that Parmigiano-Reggiano be made according to a specific recipe and production methods, and only within specific geographical regions. The Parmigiano-Reggiano Safeguarding Consorzio pursued a company in Mexico that blatantly named its product ParmigianoReggiano and affixed on it identical symbols and indications to those registered as collective marks by the Consorzio. I have witnessed first-hand the perfect example of the certification process from start to finish. I arrived early to tour one of the cheese dairy co-operatives in the countryside of the strictly designated “zona tipica” of Parmigiano-Reggiano in Italy, to watch the cheese being crafted. The milk from the previous evening

№ 47 | May/June 2014

had been left overnight to separate and a portion of the cream had been skimmed off. The remaining milk was mixed with the morning’s whole milk, and then poured into large, temperature-regulated copper cauldrons. Fermenting whey from the previous day was added and the mixture heated and slowly stirred. When the desired temperature was achieved, calves rennet (a natural coagulating extract) was added. The coagulated milk became cheese curd, the leftover liquid whey. (The remaining whey not used in the next production will be used to imbue local pigs with the unique flavour that has distinguished this region for its exceptional variety of protected Italian air-cured meats, most notably Prosciutto di Parma). Next a large, ball-shaped thorn brush was employed to fracture the curd. Again the curd was heated and stirred. With the heat shut off, the curd set. This mass was maneuvered with paddles and cut into two identical pieces, each with enough curd to make a wheel of cheese.

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The curd was then wrapped in hemp cloth and suspended above the cauldrons to dry. Later the curd was lowered into a circular wooden form, where it was pressed into a wheel. With the cloth removed, a stamp with teeth was inserted between the cheese and the mould. The teeth form a series of impressions, denoting authenticity with date and the designation Parmigiano-Reggiano. After resting, the cheese is immersed in vats of brine and left to float. It is rotated daily for 25 days and briefly exposed to the sun before being stored. The cheese is warehoused on vast wooden shelves in climate-sensitive aging rooms, and turned over mechanically while it matures for a minimum of 18 months. Watching this process convinced me that there is a need for geographic indicators and certification to help protect, differentiate and authenticate our distinctly unique and traditional products now and in the future.

patio now open!

523 richmond street 519-850-1500

BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large and Contributing Editor.

A Taste of Europe since 1974 Celebrating Our

40 Anniversary (1974-2014) th

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Mother’s Day Brunch Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre

$39.99 per person includes a Mystery Unlimited performance, salad, main course, coffee/tea, dessert, and gratuity. See our website for more details.

Patio

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122 Carling Street (at Talbot, around the corner from Budweiser Gardens)

519-679-9940 www.marienbad.ca

new

spring & summer lunch & dinner menus www.blacktrumpet.ca

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№ 47 | May/June 2014

restaurants

Differentiated at Birth Garlic’s of London and La Casa Ristorante celebrate 20 years By DAVID HICKS

ike a pair of non-identical twins, two of London’s favourite downtown eateries both share and differ in their ways. Both are Italian at heart. Both are fixtures in London’s downtown. Both have loyal followings. Both are marking their 20th anniversaries in the business. Yet each took a different path to longevity: the stalwart La Casa staying the course with full-on traditional homemade Italian passion; Garlic’s of London, with its initial fixation on garlic that veered to local and farm-to-table.

Garlic’s of London

Garlic’s owner, Edin Pehilj (pronounced Aiden Pay-hill), started there as a part-time waiter in 1997 so he looks back with an insider’s perspective. “How did we get this far? We often discuss such things,” he says. Garlic’s made a noteworthy entrance to the London scene. Londoners proved ready to embrace garlic as a feature in pastas, pizzas and salads, and welcomed the emphasis on cooking from scratch. “Twenty years later, we get Western [University] graduates returning with their families, people who played at the Grand Theatre over the years… even the woman who wrote the very first review of Garlic’s brought her family in during a recent visit from the United States.” Of late, Chef Chad Stewart (half Italian himself) went from Fanshawe College’s culinary course to the London Hunt and Country Club, to Vancouver’s Raincity Grill, a well-known farm-to-table bistro, and back to Richmond Row to join Garlic’s as Sous Chef in 2010, and Chef as of last summer. “It’s still an Italian menu at heart, for people who are passionate about simple food.”

Garlic’s owner Edin Pehilj (above), Chef Chad Stewart and Manager Emma Pratt (right) share a commitment to locally-sourced seasonal menus.

№ 47 | May/June 2014

The Turn to Local

Garlic’s main departure came in 2006 with the shift to farm-to-table sourcing, and eating what is growing around us, to be more connected to the sources of our food. “We adopted the trend early because we believe it’s better in terms of health, the economy, and the environment,” says Pehilj. “As a child in Yugoslavia, it was perfectly natural that you eat what’s growing in the backyard, but it took two or three years for the public to really embrace that shift.” “We have our perennials,” says Chef Stewart. “Our customers still come for the garlic parmesan frites or the garlic ice cream, but we cook from scratch and tweak the menu monthly, particularly the sides, according to what’s in season locally.” “Taking ‘local’ further to farm-to-table keeps things interesting and fun. We use duck from Everspring Farms in Ilderton several ways because it’s so versatile, and elk for our pappardelle from Renecker’s Hillside Elk Farm near Stratford. Sous Chef Carla Cooper uses Arva Flours in her baking and desserts. We even put a couple of bee hives on the roof last summer and got a couple gallons of honey. We plan to expand with more hives this year.”

Lessons Learned

Pehilj attributes Garlic’s longevity to extensive planning and watching the bigger picture. “Variety on the menu, listening to customers, being on the floor and engaging with people personally, watching what they respond to, paying attention to details. But also engaging in local events in the downtown, making sure we’re part of the city’s makeup,” he says. “The downtown should be a place for people to come, relax and spend time, not just drive in and out.” As for perspective earned over the past two decades, is there something Pehilj wishes the public understood better? “Yes, that serving is a real career, not just

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something we’re doing until something better comes along. We think of what we do as a profession — that’s something Emma [Pratt, Guest Relations Manager] and I look for when we’re recruiting staff.” Garlic’s of London 481 Richmond Street, London 519-432-4092 www.garlicsoflondon.com sunday & monday: 11am–9pm tuesday–thursday: 11am–10pm friday & saturday: 11am–12am sunday brunch: 11am–2pm

Featuring specialty foods, kitchenwares, tablewares, cooking classes & gift baskets.

115 King Street, London

519-645-1335 www.jillstable.ca

www.eatdrink.ca

№ 47 | May/June 2014

La Casa Ristorante

Syl Basacco had big expectations after partnering at a local pizza place, Il Piccolo Ristorante (now The Only On King). It took two years to gut and renovate his location further down King Street at Talbot. But with his mother’s recipes and help, La Casa quickly built a loyal following and Syl expanded several years later with the more upscale Black Trumpet on Richmond Row. Syl’s three siblings were destined to become hands-on restaurateurs. “We had a shaky period when Syl passed away [in 2003],” says Nino Basacco, a retired teacher. “Rocco and I took La Casa and Linda [D’Andrea] took the Black Trumpet. We were all teachers so we

La Casa owner Nino Basacco (left) and Chef Scott Anderson ensure the menu stays fresh without compromising traditions customers love.

Photo by Derek Ruttan/The London Free Press

didn’t know what we were doing, but we all had to step in. Washing dishes, wiping tables, mopping floors, we did it all. I was the cleaning guy for two years, so it wasn’t exactly romantic. But we got through a steep learning curve and we’re still here.” At 86, their mother, Maria Angela, still brings in the occasional tray of her legendary lasagna. “We make additions but her signature dishes are as good as the first day. And we’ve had two outstanding chefs in Bob Murphy and Scott Sanderson — you don’t get anywhere without that.”

Theme and Variations

Chef Sanderson blazed a similar path to Garlic’s Chef Stewart: Fanshawe, London Hunt Club, Vancouver, and back to La Casa six years ago. “We alter the menu every month or two, but our longtime customers still order the lobster tagliatelle from 15 years ago, or veal piccata which has never actually been on the menu.”

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The SECRET

to AWARD-

WINNING SAUCES

Rather than being bothered, Sanderson enjoys the special requests. “It’s another way we go out of our way for customers. Some of the fish tacos I make for the staff make their way out to the tables, and some regulars know that I keep a stash of special rib-eyes in the back.” Emphasizing consistency and home recipes, the pastas are all made in-house, including the venison-stuffed gnocchi. “We do some of our own charcuterie, like pancetta, our own smoking, baking and desserts. Apparently the sourdough starter is 20 years old now.” To celebrate two decades, La Casa reprised the original menu and prices for two nights, by invitation. “It was fun for our longtime customers and raised a couple thousand dollars for the Heart and Stroke Foundation and Community Living London, so it was fun for everyone,” says Nino. “It’s strange to think we’re 11 years in to Syl’s nine, but as long as the Basacco name is on it, we’ll keep providing the best food and service we can.” La Casa Ristorante 117 King Street, London 519-434-2272 www.lacasaristorante.com monday–saturday: lunch: 11:30am–2:30pm dinner: 5pm–10:30pm closed sundays DAVID HICKS is a Stratford writer and branding consultant. His favourite Italian dish is his wife’s pressure cooker risotto with chorizo, peppers and kale.

EXCELLENT ON PORK, CHICKEN, FISH & BEEF PROUDLY CANADIAN GLUTEN-FREE NO TRANS OR SATURATED FATS NO ARTIFICIAL FLAVOURS KOSHER

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№ 47 | May/June 2014

road trips

Cheese Please! Three Delicious Slices of the Oxford County Cheese Trail By NICOLE LAIDLER

here there’s milk, there’s got to be cheese. So it only makes sense that Oxford County — long known as the Dairy Capital of Canada — is also home to some of Canada’s finest artisanal cheesemakers. It’s a heritage that dates back to 1840 when James Harris founded the first cheese factory in Upper Canada. In 1866, Harris put Canadian cheddar on the map with a 7,300-pound “Mammoth Cheese” that travelled to the New York State Fair and to England. The Harris family home is now the Elm Hurst Inn & Spa, which is just one stop on the Oxford County Cheese Trail — a self-guided tour that invites visitors to discover local cheesemakers, specialty stores, museums, and entertainment. Launched last summer, the tour was created in response to the growing interest in culinary tourism. “As the world becomes faster-paced people want to slow down and take the time to appreciate how their food is made,” says Oxford County tourism specialist, Meredith Maywood. “Cheese is a great example of that.” At the industry’s peak in the 1800s, Oxford County boasted 98 separate cheese factories. The Bright Cheese and Butter Manufacturing Co. Ltd. is one of the originals, established by local farmers in 1874.

Adam Van Bergeijk of Mountainoak Cheese

Bright Cheese and Butter

Bright Cheese and Butter has been in its current location since 1901 and is still known for its all-natural, naturally-aged cheese made with 100 percent Ontario milk. “Our cheese has a creamier, more developed taste because we use full milk and no aging agents,” says Bright Cheese and Butter’s Don Woolcitt. In addition to cheddar, the factory produces mozzarella, colby, havarti and a variety of flavoured cheeses, with fresh cheese curds being a perennial favourite. All are available to sample and purchase at the Bright factory store, open six days a week, or at a second retail location in Shakespeare. Packaged selections from Bright Cheese and Butter

№ 47 | May/June 2014

Moutainoak Cheese

One of the area’s newest cheese makers, Moutainoak Cheese Ltd., is located just a short drive up the road. Adam and Hannie Van Bergeijk brought their love of dairy farming and premium cheese with them from Holland when they immigrated to Canada in 1996. Wanting to pass the dairy business on to their grown children, Adam decided to turn his cheesemaking hobby into a new business venture; Mountainoak produced its first Goudastyle cheese in July 2012. With the barn visible from the cheese factory, it’s hard to imagine a more earth-totable cheese experience. “We do the cropping to feed our cows,” says Adam. “And we use the milk right away. It doesn’t get cooled, so you get a really nice flavour and texture, and the cheese ages better.” While visitors aren’t able to wander the farm unaccompanied, groups can call ahead to arrange a guided tour. The retail store is open Fridays and Saturdays. Mountainoak now produces more than a dozen varieties of premium Dutch cheese, and has been recognized with several awards, including winner in the Special Cheese Section at the 2013 British Empire Cheese Show for their one-year aged Gouda-style cheese.

Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese

Oxford County Cheese Trail Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese Ltd. 445172 Gunns Hill Rd. RR #4, Woodstock | www.gunnshillcheese.ca Quality Sheep Milk (Village Cheese Mill) 383747 Salford Road, RR#1, Salford | www.qualitysheepmilk.com Mountainoak Cheese Ltd. 3165 Huron Rd., New Hamburg | www.mountainoakcheese.ca The Bright Cheese & Manufacturing Co. Ltd. 816503 Country Rd. 22, Bright | www.brightcheeseandbutter.ca Just-A-Few-Photos 445574 Gunns Hill Rd. RR#4, Woodstock | www.justafewphotos.com Norwich and District Museum 89 Stover St. N., Norwich | www.norwichdhs.ca Ingersoll Cheese and Agriculture Museum 290 Harris St., Ingersoll | 519-485-5510 Patina’s Gifts of Art & Craft 112 Thames St., Ingersoll | 519-485-6466 Elm Hurst Inn & Spa 415 Harris St., Ingersoll | www.elmhurstinn.com Dairy Capital Cheese Shoppe 474 Dundas St., Woodstock | www.dairycapitalcheese.ca Just for You B&B 6325 Dundas St., Woodstock | www.bbjust4ucanada.com Village Cheese Mill 333744 Plank Line, Slaford | www.villagechessemill.com Coyle’s Country Store (Since 1899) 244282 Airport Rd. Hwy 19, RR#7, Tillsonburg www.coylescountrystore.com Woodstock Fairgrounds Farmer’s Market 875 Nellie St., Woodstock | www.woodstockfairgrounds.com Walters Dinner Theatre 836074 Hubbard Rd. RR # 3, Bright | www.walterstheatre.com Jakeman’s Maple Farm 454414 Trillium Line, RR#1 Beachville | www.themaplestore.com

Another award-winner on the cheese trail is Shep Ysselstein of Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese Ltd. Raised on his family dairy farm, Ysselstein honed his cheesemaking skills with apprenticeships in the United States, British Columbia and Switzerland. Gunn’s Hill has been producing Swiss-style cheeses since 2011, and has already established a reputation for excellence. Gunn’s Hill Five Brothers artisan cheese won the 2013 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix award in the firm cheese category. Shep Ysselstein of Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese

“Cheese is a growing market,” notes Ysselstein. “And the cheeses we make have an easy flavour to enjoy.” Visitors to the cheese shop — open Tuesday to Saturday — can watch the cheesemaking process through large windows, or view a short video. Group tours are also available with advanced notice. A visit to all three cheesemakers made for a leisurely day-trip from London. Those looking for a longer adventure could easily set out for a weekend escape, and take an even bigger bite out of the Oxford County Cheese Trail. For more information visit: www.oxfordfresh.com/cheesetrail NICOLE LAIDLER is a freelance writer and copywriter and the owner of Spilled Ink Writing & Wordsmithing. Visit her at www.spilledink.ca

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№ 47 | May/June 2014

restaurants

Savoury Social Enterprise in SoHo Goodwill’s Edgar and Joe’s Café By BRYAN LAVERY

ince London was incorporated as a village in 1840, the district of SoHo has existed within the same confines. Originally named St. David’s Ward, this community is flanked on the north by the CN railroad tracks near York Street, on the east by Adelaide Street, and on the south and west by the Thames River. The SoHo acronym is geographic in origin as most of it is situated south of Horton Street. It makes sense that it is also intended to evoke the vitality of the cultural and restaurant neighbourhoods in Lower Manhattan and London, England’s, West End. SoHo is in fact a burgeoning restaurant district and home to many interesting dining options and bakeries including Organics Works Café, Razzle Dazzle Cupcakes, Kambie Chinese Restaurant, Enat Ethiopian Restaurant, Hong Ping, El Ranchito, Walker’s Fish and Chips, Family Circle, The Soho Diner and Edgar and Joe’s Café. Striving to foster an economically vibrant neighbourhood renewal, projects like the 1872 Red Antiquities Building and The Roundhouse, a 19th-century railway roundhouse, are virtuous examples of the balance of heritage preservation and urban renewal created by leveraging historic, cultural and architectural resources to create sustainable, vibrant communities. The

The modernist Horton Street facade and (below) three views of the sleek and expansive counter, chalkboard and ordering area Roundhouse, a few blocks east of the Goodwill Social Enterprise Abilities Centre on Horton Street, had sat empty since November 2007, when the Great West Beef, once a popular landmark London steakhouse, closed its doors after 31 years in business. ATMOS Marketing and rTraction (a full service digital agency) will share the refurbished Roundhouse. Peter Cuddy and Kate Gielen’s Organic Works Bakery in the former Ming’s Restaurant on Wellington epitomizes just how outmoded buildings can be retained and brilliantly repurposed with design savvy and intelligence. Having a long-time presence in the district, Goodwill wanted to invest in delivering more urban character in the evolving SoHo neighbourhood and built the Goodwill Social Enterprise Abilities Centre in 2011. The stylish

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and minimalist 70-seat Edgar and Joe’s Cafe opened last July in the $12-million Centre. The Centre features a 50-seat town hall, 160-seat community hall and various other gathering spaces. With an excess of 100,000 shoppers visiting the Goodwill Centre annually and a staff of 120, the café quickly garnered great word-of-mouth, becoming a favourite daytime destination with a diverse clientele from all over the city. Edgar and Joe’s Café offers an affordably-priced menu highlighting nutritious food made from scratch with locally sourced ingredients from purveyors like Las Chicas Del Café and Metzger Meats. Bread and baked goods are freshlybaked daily; condiments, preserves, soups and daily features are made from high quality raw ingredients. The in-house baking, eclectic salads, breakfast features and a variety of exceptional sandwiches have become particular standouts. The all-day breakfast is elevated by homemade jams and breads, and the particularly tasty addition of sweet potato to the hash browns, with the house-made ketchup, is bliss. The classic breakfast special — eggs, toast, hash browns, and your choice of bacon, sausage or ham — is only five dollars. A recent lunch special was charbroiled Ontario lamb with balsamic roasted cipollini onion, tomato and spicy mayo on fresh baked bread with soup and salad, for $6.50. Le Cordon Bleu-trained Chef Danny Galinou made it clear that the café is about focusing on collaborative principles and goals and that he did not want to be singled out in an article about the café. So I will resist commenting on his exceptional abilities in the kitchen. Galinou and Neil Burnett, manager of hospitality and food services, lead the staff by overseeing food production and service, culinary and hospitality training, nutrition and food security programs, and catering and community cooking initiatives. The Café’s now up-and-running Hands on Hospitality program is eight weeks in length and provides participants with the skill set required to work in a restaurant, including a two-week co-op with a partner of the program and a closing segment devoted to resume building and interview techniques. Edgar and Joe’s Cafe offers training and mentorship by giving program participants the skills they need to secure meaningful employment in the hospitality industry. By

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fostering collaboration and community initiatives that embrace diversity and inclusion, with an emphasis on health and wellbeing, the program allows participants to build confidence and have a vision of their successful futures. The organization aims to educate the larger community about, and help break down the stigma surrounding, mental illness and social disadvantage. The name Edgar honours social innovator Dr. Edgar J. Helms, a Methodist minister, who founded the Goodwill movement in 1902, with the philosophy of “a hand up, not a hand out.” Goodwill Industries became a registered

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charity in 1935. The name Joe is a reference to the “average Joe,” who faces challenges such as mental health issues, homelessness, developmental disabilities, or LGBTQ status, when working towards obtaining education and employment. Edgar and Joe’s brings leadership, social innovation and community collaboration to the forefront in a neighbour hood that prides itself on a vibrant arts and culture scene, heritage preservation and urban renewal. Edgar & Joe’s Café 255 Horton St. East, London 519-645-0900 www.edgarandjoes.ca mon–fri 7am–5pm; sat & sun 9am–3pm BRYAN LAVERY is eatdrink’s Food Writer at Large and Contributing Editor.

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culinary retail

It’s a Family Affair Saucy: Meats & So Much More! in London By LORI MADDIGAN Photos by STEVE GRIMES

rin Jardine arrives at the Western Fair Farmers’ Market on Saturday morning after a two-hour drive to pick up a special cut of fresh meat for a customer. Her husband, Andrew, smiles and chats with the steady stream of shoppers, responding to questions about the high quality products that fill the shelves and coolers at Saucy: Meats & So Much More! Donna Lawson, a regular customer, says, “They have the best meat — my husband won’t eat bacon from anywhere else, and they are just such nice people.” As parents of three young children, Andrew and Erin were always concerned with nutrition, buying meat directly from the farm before they discovered Saucy. Impressed by the quality, and fascinated with the business model, Andrew, a recent MBA graduate,

Andrew and Erin Jardine and family operate an innovative retail space in the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market jumped at the opportunity to purchase Saucy in July 2013. “It was a perfect fit for us,” says Andrew, “and we wanted our kids to be part of a family business.” Their oldest son, five-year-old Aidan, is seen every now and then, in his very own Saucy t-shirt, bagging customers’ purchases. Original owner Jane Antoniak worked for years with local food producers in her role as a communications professional. Jane suggested to some that they set up shop in London — easier said than done for families already working countless hours on their farms. Her clients replied, “Why don’t you do it, Jane?” After months of research and planning, Jane launched her unique business, Saucy, in September 2012.

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Customer experience ground, non-GMO was crucial for Jane: “We corn, with no added wanted a booth people hormones. The procould walk into, look at cessed meats are free the products, and serve of starches, flours and themselves.” In addition flavour enhancers. No to two specialty display wonder Metzger delivcoolers, Saucy houses ers award-winning two large stand-up products, year after coolers for fresh and year. “The bacon is frozen meats. All the outrageously good,” meat is vacuum sealed, says Andrew. “Repeat allowing shoppers to customers stand at the see exactly what they bacon fridge and sell it are purchasing. “The for us!” meat is sealed fresh Bruce and Shirley at the butcher and Mills have owned and fully inspected by the operated Blanbrook All meats are conveniently vacuum sealed health unit. The vac seal Bison Farm for 22 reduces handling, and years. Bison meat keeps the meat from leaking in shoppers’ — high in protein and iron, and low in bags,” Jane says. cholesterol, is growing in popularity. “Not many butchers do vacuum seal; it’s “Our collaboration with Saucy has been costly,” says Andrew. Interacting almost beneficial, allowing us to sell our meat to a daily with four butchers and six or seven larger audience,” says Shirley. local farmers to source and prepare the In addition to beef, pork, lamb, duck meats, “Erin does a lot of work behind and bison, Saucy offers a variety of locally the scenes,” Andrew says, “and it’s all produced sauces, oils and dry goods, as well very time-sensitive.” Andrew and Erin are as suggestions for pairing them with the exceptionally selective, only supporting meats. “The Garlic Box makes a great white farmers who are committed to raising their bean soup mix that pairs well with a pork animals ethically, and producing hormone- hock from The Whole Pig,” says Andrew, and drug-free meat. “and, ‘Traditional Portuguese Sauce,’ made Darlene and Dave Pettit, owners of Lena’s here in London [by Cavameida], is perfect Lamb, focus on quality as a marinade or base and consistency. “We for a lot of the meats only sell what is born we sell.” Customers and raised on our farm,” are also welcome to says Darlene. “We enjoy borrow from Saucy’s working with Andrew recipe book library. and Erin. They are a Most Saturdays, smart and hard-working customers are able to family, and are just sample some of the as passionate about sauces and oils Saucy providing customers carries. Jamie Griffiths, the best local food as owner of The Pristine we are.” Olive Tasting Bar, and Gerhard Metzger, of his father, Dave, offer Metzger Meat Prodsamples of some of ucts, also apprecithe freshest olive oils ates that Andrew and and finest balsamic Erin “share the same vinegars available in values when it comes London. Andrew also to locally produced hopes to offer samples foods.” Metzger’s pigs of cooked meats this are fed only freshlysummer.

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But does high quality come at a high cost? “We monitor our prices closely,” says Andrew. “As a young family, it’s important to make good, healthy meat affordable for other families, like us.” Saucy also offers customers the flexibility of paying with credit cards. Saucy is indeed a family business, but Andrew and Erin have become part of a much larger family: “the Western Fair Farmer’s Market is such a supportive community,” says Andrew, “and we really do think of our customers as neighbours.” Bringing together farmers, food producers and consumers through a unique business model, top quality natural foods, and good old-fashioned customer service — Saucy really is So Much More! Saucy: Meats & So Much More! 900 King Street, London Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market 226-376-meat (6328) www.saucymeats.com saturdays: 8 am–3 pm LORI MADDIGAN is a fresh market aficionado from London. STEVE GRIMES is a London-based photographer and a regular contributor to eatdrink. www.grimesphoto.com

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travel

Bem Vindo A warm welcome in Portugal By MARTHA Mc ALISTER

y husband Gary and I spent a month in Portugal. Our daughter Alexandra joined us in Lisbon/Porto and returned with our son Hadleigh to spend the last week with us in this incredible country. The Algarve, Portugal’s southernmost region (famous for its sea salt), served as our base. Flowers, and almond, fig, orange, lemon and olive trees were blooming. It is a country founded on small business, and the family-run stores and restaurants show superb customer appreciation and offer value for money. Small, neighbourhood bakeries, each with its own specialties made daily, are everywhere. One begins with a bica, an espresso consumed standing at the counter, or a galao, an espresso latte, and this prescription is repeated multiple times daily. Traditional folklore subscribes to accompanying your prescription with delicious baked goods. However, coffees are not the only beverages — freshly squeezed fruit juices, green or mint teas, and pure hot chocolate (in many flavours) that tasted like melted chocolate bars. We went to Lisbon, a must-see city, a splendid mix of old and new architecture, many buildings covered with azulejos, classical pictorial blue tiles. The city is spread over seven hills, with quaint districts like the Alto Barrio and Alfama which are home to fado music clubs and tapas bars. At Marcelino we sampled the famous black

Tapas

Lamb Shanks

Port Barques in Gaia, Porto pork (from local, dark-skinned pigs fattened on acorns). Naturally, high on our list was the world-renowned Pastéis de Belém. There are no words to describe these amazing custard tarts. One is given little packages of cinnamon and fine icing sugar to sprinkle over, but can one improve on perfection? Lisbon has fine tea salons and incredible cafés, where we tried presunto (smoked meat) and a dazzling array of fish. When dining in Portuguese restaurants, there is a set format. One selects portion size and orders, and the couvert arrives. Typically comprised of bread, cheese, fish, pastes, olives and marinated vegetables, the couvert is brought to the table as a convenience to the diner, but is not complimentary. Most menus include caldo verde, a typical soup made with kale, potatoes and garlic. After Lisbon, we headed north to Porto through the Duoro Valley wine region. Visiting the old port warehouses in Gaia was imperative. The impressive traditional barques are still moored quayside. Ramos Pinto was our first stop where we received a talk and tasting notes and luxuriated in five different ports. Some special reserves cost 150–200 Euros, or $200–300 Canadian. We

Prawn Mango Curry

Fish Cataplana

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for the finale, all accompanied by two bottles of wine for 45 Euros (under $70) per couple — spectacular! We returned again for our anniversary and received complimentary champagne. The meal was splendid: lemon Dover sole, grilled calamari, mango shrimp curry and Inside the seafood area of the Louie The World’s Best Market (above) and fresh grilled sardines Chocolate Cake — (right) at Ze Morgadinao aptly named! left here and found a lunch spot where we Two huge components of Portuguese ordered arroz de marisco (seafood rice) and cuisine are cataplanas (fish stew), which frango piri-piri (spicy hot, lemony chicken). we thoroughly enjoyed, and sardinhas It was all inexpensive and delicious. Next was assadas (grilled sardines) which are freshly a tour of Sandeman, the famous producer of barbequed. O Navigador was one seafront ports and sherries. My flight of ports included venue that offered jazz and fado nights. Here I “White,” “Ruby” and “Tawny.” I rather liked enjoyed gorgeous lamb shanks and first crop the chilled white as an aperitif and purchased strawberries while observing our steaks being a bottle. That evening we fortuitously cooked on our own hot stone. stumbled upon Patua, a This whole region restaurant with an open has many British tourconcept kitchen with ists and some excellent a trail-blazing young establishments cater chef who elevated our to this group. No Patio rain-sodden spirits with restaurant had exquitwo complimentary site Sunday lunches appetizers: a hot and special weeknight sausage sushi and treats. We had fun smoked salmon roe watching Canada win pâté. I had a hot Ruby hockey gold here. Sandeman Cellars, Porto Port to ward off the As a nation, the chills — super! My main Portuguese embrace was a deconstructed empanada served fresh, local food and every town has a in a mason jar with a potato cream base, municipal farmers’ market building operating wine-infused slow-cooked meat centre, daily with Loule being one of the best, as and braised vegetables on top. The others well as the Saturday Gypsy market. One can enjoyed bacalhau (dried salt cod) with cream also purchase vegetables and fruits along the liquor sauce, and pasta nero with gigantic roadside — a three kilogram bag of oranges tiger shrimp. We finished with sumptuous costing only 1–2 Euros ($1.50–$2). desserts; merengada with meringues, cream, To conclude, in Hadleigh’s words, strawberries, liquor and shards of dark mint “Portugal you have won me over with chocolate, and a Nutella Fantasy! your magnificent beaches, insanely cheap Back in the Algarve, it was Dia des excellent wines and delicious fresh fish.” Enamorados (Valentine’s Day) and with six Obrigado, beautiful country, warm new friends we ate at the splendid restaurant hospitable people. A Babuja, where the whole enclosed patio was festooned with romantic decorations. It was a five course meal: special couvert, MARTHA Mc ALISTER has been a teacher, traveller, multi- codfish brandada starter, pork tenderloin cultural co-ordinator, purveyor of fine teas, and nominee for Canadian with pineapple, heart shaped vegetables, Retailer of the Year. She and her husband Gary own Everything Tea in and filo pastry with chocolate cream hearts London, at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market.

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farmers & artisans

The Food Web Global Connections & Biodiversity By ANTONY JOHN

s I go through the rhythm of daily chores on our certified organic farm, I am increasingly struck by the cyclicity of life. I have now crossed the threshold of 30 years of farming, and the pace of days blending into one another seems to be quickening. Did 2013 really pass by that quickly? Have we been running Soiled Reputation for 20 years already? My 20-year journal confirms everything. It also reveals some fascinating connections and patterns that have emerged out of such a lengthy association with an agricultural ecosystem. Our farm is actually a food web, with connections stretching as far as Brazil, and I believe it offers insights to be gleaned, in relation to the food we grow, the food we buy, and the impact those decisions have on biodiversity. In mid-February, Tina and I board a plane for Belize. For the past two years, we have formed a very real food web connection, with a very special place in Belize, called Belcampo Lodge. Twelve thousand acres in area, this luxury lodge is launching an ambitious and extensive agricultural enterprise, based on the principles of organic growing and Slow Food. Last year, I was hired to help with their organic vegetable garden, which will supply the lodge’s restaurant with fresh produce, meals for the staff, and produce for the Punta Gorda market. Tina and I are also at Belcampo to help publicize the incredible birdwatching opportunities, there and in Belize at large. Guests have the rare

The Belcampo lodge (above) and garden staff privilege of birding with Dr. Lee Jones, the author of Birds of Belize, along with the lodge’s own guides, in a variety of locations and habitats, including Mayan ruins, rare pine savannah, mangroves, and the property of Belcampo itself. Indeed, the vegetable gardens and organic

A view from the Belcampo deck

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citrus groves are among the most productive habitat in which to see birds, as they forage among the plants. As a testament to the incredible biodiversity of Belcampo, and its sustainable growing practices, we have seen over 250 species of birds in just two weeks! The lodge at Belcampo acts as a most eloquent manifestation of the real food web connection to our farm in Southwest Ontario. A large part of Neotropical bird life is made up of migratory species such as warblers, flycatchers, tanagers, orioles, and thrushes. We recognize them as spring migrants. Some species, like the Baltimore oriole, return to the silver maples of our farm to nest each May. I record the first arrival date of each species of bird year after year in my journal, and an amazing calendar of species-related arrival dates has emerged after 20 years. Other birds, such as the diminutive Magnolia warbler, pass through Southwestern Ontario on their way to the Boreal Forest to nest. I’ve seen both of these species at Belcampo, feeding amongst the Madre de Cacao trees that shade (and feed) the coffee, cacao, and vanilla vines, or foraging among the wax bean plants in the garden for whiteflies. These may well be the same individuals that we’ll find on our farm three months later. The fact that these birds complete a journey from the Neotropics to our farm, and points far beyond, (our Barn Swallows winter in Brazil), is made all the more remarkable by the fact that they do it twice a year, and without ever having been shown the route (make a sharp left at Albuquerque!). All along the way, they may stop at organic farms and woodlots to refuel for the next leg of their journey. The biodiversity of our farm and others like it forms part of an important migration corridor for these birds, and for migratory insects such as monarch butterflies. Our farm is linked to all other organic farms and wild areas along the eastern flyway, to shade-grown organic plantations in Belize, Costa Rica, Brazil, and other countries, by the migratory birds that traverse the continents. We are part of a much broader food web that is increasingly put under pressure from irresponsible growing practices, environmentally harmful pesticides such as neonicotinoids, and short-sighted land-use practices such as monocropping. The sooner we realize how complex a food system must be in order to support life, the better off most of our planet will be.

Summer Tanager

Pygmy Kingfisher

Magnolia Warbler

Painted Bunting

Olive-Throated Parakeet ANTONY JOHN is an organic farmer, painter and avid birdwatcher. He lives near Stratford. This is the first of a series of reflections on the food we grow and buy.

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farmers & artisans

Love of the Lake Purdy Fisheries in Sarnia-Lambton

The nets bulge with part of the day’s catch on Lake Huron smokehouse at its Point Edward location. “It was the water that called me home,” says Steph. “People say to me ‘Are you crazy? You left B.C.?’ But I say look at what we have here. And I don’t miss the rain.” The Purdys are major local suppliers of pickerel, yellow perch, lake trout and lake

Photo by Jeff McCoy www.StudioKaoss.ca

he Purdy family of Sarnia are clearly water people. The family has worked Lake Huron, running a commercial fishery operation, for more than a century. As Steph Purdy aptly puts it — they have a love of the lake. It’s a pull that brought Steph, fourth generation in the business, back to Sarnia from British Columbia to work alongside her brothers, Tim and Rob (who are both boat captains), and her parents, Milford and Mary. Her mother is the company accountant and her dad, at age 76, “would still be on the water doing what he could every day but his poor body won’t let him. It’s been too many years of hard labour. He is the key brains of the operation — a wealth of information,” says Steph. Steph and her husband, Mike Hopko, met in B.C. where she was a university student and then a professional figure skating coach. He is from Chilliwack, B.C. but since 2003 the couple has made Sarnia their home. Mike also works for Purdy’s, smoking fish — a job he took over from Steph’s uncle. Purdy’s has a hot

Photo by Jason Mortlock www.jasonmortlock.com

By JANE ANTONIAK

Photo by Jason Mortlock www.jasonmortlock.com

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whitefish. They also catch catfish, silver bass, redfin and freshwater drum (a.k.a. sheephead, or sheepshead). Using both the trap and gill fishing methods (depending on time of year), they use different boats for different jobs and conditions. “We prefer to use the traps but they are very weather dominated. So we can’t fish traps in the winter at all. In the deep part of summer, when the water temperature is too warm, trap doesn’t work either so we go to deeper water with the gill nets”, explains Steph. They have a fleet of 10 boats including a gill boat built by her grandfather Ron Purdy in the early 1940s.

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“As my brother says, sometimes we have nine boats too many as we don’t have a lot of captains! We have different boats for different jobs. Sometimes we need an anchor boat and a net boat. The most we ever have on the water would be three. It is more likely two on the water on the same day. A gill net in deeper water fishing white fish and a trap net boat lifting pickerel traps.” The Purdys have two licences, which allow them to fish southern Lake Huron from Sarnia north to Point Clark. Their main operation is in Point Edward where they also have a large retail outlet. They have a seasonal dockside retail operation in Grand Bend on the water next to the Yacht Club. And they sell their fish at Sarnia’s Farmer Market on Saturday mornings, in London at Sunripe, and in Toronto at Butcher by Nature. Discerning diners can find Purdy’s on the menu at the The Only on King restaurant in London, at Jamie Kennedy’s Gilead restaurant in Toronto, and at Canoe in Toronto. Steph admits it is a bit of thrill to be able to connect their fish with celebrity chefs. “They’re just people too,” Continued on page 34 ...

Purdy’s Fish Market (above), is open year round on the shore of the St. Clair River in Point Edward, while Purdy’s at The Bend (right), on River Street in Grand Bend, is open through the warmer months.

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Purdy’s Dockside Eatery in Point Edward provides the perfect perch to enjoy your perch. radio each week as part of Food Talk with Lee Michaels on FOX FM or CHOK AM Blackburn radio. They discuss products, fish, the effect of weather on fishing, and more. “We are passionate about what we do. I am proud of our family and our tradition. And we have a great product to back it up. It is just a lot of hard work and a quality product.”

she says, “who have a very cool job. Chefs to me are what a professional athlete or movie star is for other people. It’s kind of cool when what you do gets validation.” Jamie Kennedy gave back to the Purdys when he travelled to Grand Bend to be a judge at their first (now annual) Chowderfest. The 5th Annual Chowderfest will be held in the second Purdy’s Fish Market & Dockside Eatery weekend of August in Grand Bend as part of 1 Riverfront Road, Point Edward the Aquafest water celebration. 519-344-3732 Adding their own culinary creations www.purdysfisheries.com for sale at their own retail outlets, as takePurdy’s at the Sarnia Farmer’s Market out or dine-in, has proven to be a positive 110 Proctor Street, Sarnia, ON innovation for Purdy’s. Fish and chips with saturdays 7am–noon homemade coleslaw is an obvious menu item and it’s something that Purdy’s does Purdy’s at The Bend well, especially with their lake perch and lake 59 River Road, Grand Bend whitefish. Chowder is offered once a week 519-238-8044 in Point Edward. And a new item for those looking for something not fried is Great Lakes Salad. Think tuna salad but made with mostly JANE ANTONIAK is a regular contributor to eatdrink, whitefish or any combination of local fish. often found writing stories near the waters of Lake Huron, Erie They cook the fish in a smoker (not smoked) and Superior. She is also Manager, Communications & Media and add celery, onions, and dill pickles. It is Relations at King’s University College, Western U in London. sold in tubs to take home or served with pita chips or on a bun with lettuce. They also sell a line of imported seafoods, gourmet sauce/food lines and house-made salmon pot pies, fish cakes and seafood lasagna (fresh and frozen depending on the day of the week). Some of this innovation has come from the input of students at Lambton College who help produce the food. Steph offers cooking classes in the fall or by group booking. Recipes can be found on the A variety of fresh options company website. And, if you are in the at Purdy’s Fish Market Sarnia area, you can catch Steph on the

Photo by Jeff McCoy www.StudioKaoss.ca

Continued from page 31 ...

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The BUZZ ... new and notable

n a recommendation that went to the Planning and Environment Committee in March, London’s city staff requested holding a public participation meeting on May 13 at City Hall to discuss a pilot program that would permit non-amplified music on outdoor patios within reasonable hours this summer. In effect for more than 20 years, the existing bylaw banning live music and entertainment on outdoor patios is targeted at “reducing conflict arising from noise,” city documents reveal. It is expected that the pilot project will be reviewed at the end of the year.

pulled pork to brisket and chicken. Participate in a variety of sports, cooking demos and activities running throughout the weekend. Friday June 20th to Sunday June 22. www.westernfairdistrict.com/events/attend/beerbbq2014

Culinary Historians of Canada (CHC) is a country-wide organization whose members share a passionate interest in Canadian food history and food ways. They view Canada’s unique food history as having a vital place in contemporary culture, and really, they are talking about the original 100-mile diet. They hope to “inspire appreciation while advancing knowledge of Canada’s food history.” Stratford Chef School graduate Angel Commins (angel@culinaryhistorians.ca) is the membership committee chair of CHC and she is looking for new members to help grow the national organization. Commins is also working on a cookbook of Canadian heritage desserts/ baking, and hopes to be conducting cooking classes in her home starting late spring of this year. www.culinaryhistorians.ca

“Reasonably priced, fresh, well-executed Ethiopian cuisine ...” — Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine

The sounds, tastes and culture of Mexico are returning to downtown London. Celebrate the fourth annual Fiesta London at the Covent Garden Market. Enjoy a day full of fun, fiesta and mariachi as you explore the beauty of Mexico’s food, rich history, art and music. It’s the Hispanic signature event in London. Sunday June 9, 11 am–10 pm. Bring your friends and enjoy the true tastes of summer at the London Beer and BBQ Show at the Western Fair District Agriplex. The event will showcase many fine craft breweries from across southwestern Ontario and will pair beers with outstanding BBQ prepared by a variety of grill masters from local and area restaurants. Sample over 50 beers from Ontario’s established culture of craft beers, savour sumptuous barbecue by local grillers — everything from pork ribs and

Double Decker Ice Cream is going into its third summer and the red double-decker bus on Wellington Road (next to The Red Lobster) has become fairly well known around the city. Recently, Double Decker Ice Cream opened a satellite location at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on the 2nd

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floor. This provides a year-round London location for premium quality Shaw’s Ice Cream, made locally from Ontarioproduced cream since 1948. At the market, they have added the “All-Day Breakfast” — fresh hot waffles with ice cream and choice of toppings. www.fb.com/DDIceCream London Ice Cream has added some great new flavours this spring, including Chocolate Box (Acadian vanilla swirled with Au Chocolate ice cream with caramel, mint, cherry & raspberry chocolate cups), Fruit Loop (lemon, lime and raspberry ice cream swirled together) and Chicago Mix (buttered popcorn, salty caramel & a cheesy character!) www.fb.com/LondonIceCreamCompany

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Abruzzi presents a “Front to Back” fundraiser for Bethanys Hope Foundation (www.bethanyshope.org) on Sunday June 1. An Italian-inspired 5-course menu will be served by the cooks and cooked by the servers. Tickets are $150 (and eligible for a $75 tax receipt) and 100% of the profit goes to this exciting local charity, which announced at their “Big Italian Kitchen Party” gala last month that they are close to running clinical trials in their search for a cure for leukodystrophy. The ticket price includes wine, and a cash bar will be available. Cocktails begin at 6pm, with dinner service at 7. For tickets, call Bethanys Hope at 519-642-7589 or drop by Abruzzi at 119 King Street. www.abruzzi.ca Gary and Martha McAlister of Everything Tea are pleased to announce rotating weekly specials of teas and accessories at exceptionally reasonable prices. Watch for changing website news coming soon. Lovely bright coloured teapots with floral and gardening themes are in stock to herald spring’s arrival. Saturdays, upstairs at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market 8 am to 3 pm. 519-433-9522 Locomotive Espresso is London’s newest independent purveyor of caffeinated beverages and other fine fare. In addition to serving a great selection of coffees, lattes and espressos, brewed by professionally trained baristas on a La Marzocco GB5 (handmade in Florence, Italy), Londoners will find a variety of locally-sourced products and services including fresh salads, paninis and baked goods from Heirloom Catering; fresh breads from The Artisan Bakery; cold pressed juices from the Pulp & Press Juice Co.; organic teas from Wisdom Teashop and Clipper Teas (UK); biscotti from local pastry chef Michele Lenhardt; Kosuma Bars, Habitual Chocolate and Nepalese chai tea, fresh rolls, and granola from Momo’s At The Market, from the Western Fair Farmers’ Market. www.locomotiveespresso.com. The Five Fortune Culture Restaurant opened to crowds in March at the southeast corner of Richmond and King Street. Owners Jeff and Wenbei Li travelled 7,756 miles to start a new life in a strange land with the hope of living more peacefully. The cuisine is a combination of Yunnan, Sichuan and Guizhou styles and influences. Mixian mini-pots, rice noodles, green onion pie, pancake rolls and dumplings are among the housemade specialties. www.fivefortuneculture.com

Try Our NEW Grilled Seafood Menu Items!

ENJOY

Authentiinces Greek Weer &B

OPEN LATE! SUN & Holidays 11–9 MON−SAT 11–11

EAT-IN OR TAKE-OUT

572 Adelaide Street, London 519-434-6736

www.mykonosrestaurant.ca

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The Black Olive Mediterranean Bistro opened recently in south London and serves traditional Lebanese cuisine. The casual bistro-style restaurant at 825 Southdale Rd. W. has 24 seats plus 15 on the patio. www.blackolivebistro.ca Done Like Dinner has been making a name for itself over the past year, supplying home-cooked meals to busy London families, professionals and seniors. Co-owners Annie Johnstone and Stephanie Johnson, dedicated farmers’ market and local producer supporters, offer a made-from-scratch entree, soup and salad delivered free on Tuesdays and Thursdays. See menus and ordering info at www.donelikedinner.ca

Ontario Health Minister Deb Matthews announced new legislation will oblige restaurants with 20 or more locations to post calorie counts alongside pricing. The legislation will force restaurants to post a contextual statement about daily calorie intake and give power to Ontario Public Health to enforce the new rules. The minister hoped for the bill to come into effect as of January 2015, but now an election is pending. The general minimum wage increase from $10.25 to $11 per hour will take effect June 1, as well as corresponding raises in student hourly minimum wage from $9.60 to $10.30 and liquor server minimum wage by hour from $8.90 to $9.55.

Farm Boy fresh market stores are coming to London with their first store set to open in June at 1045 Wellington Road, beside Chapters. Founded in Cornwall in 1981, the chain now has 14 locations carrying abundant varieties of fresh produce, premium meats and artisan cheese, plus made-from-scratch meals and 60 feet of self-serve food bars with fresh greens, grains, grilled proteins and an array of hot and tasty favourites made in the Farm Boy Kitchen. Londoners can expect Farm Boy to stock a number of their favourite local products. www.farmboy.ca

Ontario Update

As of May 1, 2014, homegrown wines, crafted entirely from Ontario-grown grapes and following local winemaking standards, can be bought at approved farmers’ markets. Locally, Quai du Vin Estate Winery has applied to set up shop at nine markets in our region. For purposes of the Liquor Licence Act (LLA) and Regulations, “farmers’ market” means: a central location at which a group of persons who operate stalls or other food premises meet to sell or offer for sale to consumers products that include, without being restricted to, farm products, baked goods and preserved foods, and at which a substantial number of the persons operating the stalls or other food premises are producers of farm products who are primarily selling or offering for sale their own products. VQA wine may be sold during farmer’s markets’ hours of operation. Many are hoping that this will pave the way for expanding additional product offerings in the future to include a wider range sales of local craft beer, wine and artisanal spirits at farmers’ markets and beyond.

ALWAYS a 3-course prix fixe menu option

432 Richmond St. at Carling • London www.davidsbistro.ca www.davidsbistro.ca

London’s Celebration Destination

31 Lunch Weekdays Dinner 7 Nights a Week

1 York Street

(just West of Ridout)

MICHAEL’S ON THE THAMES Continental cuisine – with a 519-672-0111 contemporary twist! – and Tableside Cooking. Baby Grand Pianist Nightly From an amazing Caesar Salad to flaming coffees, Complimentary On Site Parking Michael’s makes your celebration an event. www.michaelsonthethames.com

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A new and independent competition, with Loblaw as marquee sponsor, became the largest cheese competition in Canada with 76 producers across the nation providing 291 cheeses for judging at University of Guelph. It is the first cheese competition in Canada open to all types of milks used in cheese making — cow, goat, sheep and water buffalo — with only pure natural cheese accepted for judging. That meant no artificial colours, flavours or preservatives, and no modified milk ingredients. Ontario’s chefs, culinary enthusiasts and cookbook lovers are grieving the loss of a 31-year-old Toronto institution. The Cookbook Store closed its doors for good in March to make way for a new condo development. CH UN R m Y B 2p DA1am− N SU 1

PATIO Now Open!

The Southwest Ontario Tourism Corporation is the provincially mandated Regional Tourism Organization for Ontario’s Southwest (also known as Region 1). About 220 tourism operators from across Southwestern Ontario were in London in March for their annual conference.

Seasonal Farmers’ Markets

The MyPick® verification program grew out of a real need. Shoppers at Ontario farmers’ markets often thought they were buying directly from local farmers when in fact they were buying from resellers. They had no way of knowing which vendors were which. Now they do, thanks to the MyPick® verification program from Farmers’ Markets Ontario®. When you see a vendor displaying a MyPick® sign, you can be sure you’re getting just-picked freshness from the grower’s own farm, and are helping support local agriculture. www.farmersmarketsontario.com/mypick/ The Covent Garden Market Farmers’ Market offers seasonal, fresh, friendly and local food twice a week, outside on the tented square. These vendors are involved in producing what they are selling, and are happy to answer questions. For current news, recipes and seasonal information, go to their blog: www.coventgardenfarmersmarket.com Thursday & Saturdays, 8 am to 1 pm, weather permitting. Masonville Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market features over 40 farmers, artisans and food producers. Located in North London in the former Sears parking lot at the Masonville Place Mall, just north of Fanshawe Park Road off Richmond Street. Fridays 8 am to 2 pm, May to October. Weather permitting. Since its inception, Slow Food Perth County’s Sunday Market has been a popular go-to food destination. Marketgoers appreciate the good, clean, fair principles of Slow Food as well as the exceptional produce and artisanal products offered by local vendors. Now outdoors at Stratford Market Square, the market moves indoors to The Local Community Food Centre after Thanksgiving. Sundays 10 am to 2 pm.

Sun–Tues 11am–11pm, Wed/Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri/Sat 11am–1am

Strathroy Farmers’ Market is one of Middlesex County’s longest running Farmers’ Market established in 1861, located on Market Square behind the Town Hall in Strathroy at 52 Frank Street. Saturdays 8 am to 12 noon, early June to October.

Celebrating our 20 thAnniversary! 3 COURSE DINNER FOR $28

Delicious Seven Days a Week

Dinner, Lunch or Sunday Brunch

519.432.4094 481 Richmond Street www.garlicsoflondon.com

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Horton Farmers’ Market supports the regional economy by providing access to high quality food producers, craftspeople and artisans. The market endeavours to have only local producers and craftspeople represented, giving you a taste and experience unique to St. Thomas. Manitoba Street, ½ block north of Talbot Street. St. Thomas, Saturdays. May 10th to November. www.hortonfarmersmarket.ca

Your love of all things Italian begins at

Downtown Woodstock Farmers’ Market is a vibrant outdoor local market in the heart of Woodstock on Museum/ Market Square. Museum Square and Dundas St., Woodstock. May to October, Thursdays 12 noon to 5 pm (sometimes later). www.downtownwoodstock.ca Grand Bend Farmers’ Market welcomes you to a season of fresh, locally-grown produce. If the vendors don’t grow it, produce it, make it or bake it, it can’t be found at the market. They offer a varied selection of products from the three counties of Huron, Middlesex and Lambton. 1 Main St., Grand Bend (Colonial Hotel Parking Lot — enter off Hwy 21.) Opens May 21 to October 8. Wednesdays 8 am to 1 pm. www.grandbendfarmersmarket.ca

Culinary Education

Professors at Brescia University College have been awarded a $50,000 Healthy Eating in Secondary Schools grant from the Ontario Ministry of Education to launch a university peer nutrition education program at Oakridge Secondary School. FRESH (Food Resources and Education for Student Health) is a multi-strategy program created by and for university students under the supervision of Dr. Paula Dworatzek and Dr. June Matthews, Associate Professors in Food and Nutrition at Brescia, and Anne Zok, Nutrition Manager for Western’s Hospitality Services. Now in its fifth year of operation, FRESH has reached thousands of university students through peer education (FRESH ED), a web site (freshu.ca), and various social media channels. It has also influenced the campus food environment by highlighting healthier options in vending machines (Healthier 4U) and on menus (FRESH Approved). Their frequent-buyer program (FRESH Fruit/Dairy Card) has increased consumption of these healthy foods. Drs. Matthews and Dworatzek will work with Diane O’Shea, Family Studies Department Head and teacher at Oakridge Secondary School, to implement FRESH High with the help of 20 students, drawn mostly from Grade 10. Throughout the 2014–15 school year, Oakridge students will receive mentoring and orientation to be empowered participants in FRESH High. The program will teach the students to become advocates for changes to the food environment, and raise brand awareness through interactive displays, food demonstrations, and social media. If the inaugural program is deemed a success in a post-program evaluation, FRESH High may expand to other secondary schools. The 2014 MasterCard Memorial Cup London Host Committee is excited to announce the May 16–25 schedule for the upcoming Championship. Featuring a possible nine thrilling hockey games, the 2014 MasterCard Memorial Cup also involves a number of activities off the ice. The 11-day event begins with the Arrival of the Memorial Cup Ceremony and the

EXPRESS LUNCHES INTIMATE DINNERS “A place you can depend on and delight in” — eatdrink

EXTRAORDINARY CATERING DIETARY NEEDS ACCOMMODATED AMPLE FREE PARKING

46 Blackfriars Street, London 519-667-4930 www.blackfriarsbistro.com

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Opening Gala, both presented by BMO. From exciting acts in the Budweiser Beer Garden (beer tent in the South Parking Lot of Budweiser Gardens), to the Downtown London FanFest open daily on Talbot Street and the Covent Garden Market Square, there’s something for everyone to enjoy. Fans can enjoy a Captains’ Pancake Breakfast, a tour at the Royal Canadian Regiment Museum, a beach event with the Memorial Cup, a celebration at our local legions with the Memorial Cup, and the MasterCard Memorial Cup Golf Tournament.

Are you feeling “done like dinner”, and dinner isn’t done yet? Order online today: donelikedinner.ca We look forward to cooking for you! DLD Kitchen

From the Field

to Our Kitchen to Your Table

EST. 1996

Local Ontario Ingredients Non-GMO • Organic Lines

Canning Classes Wedding Favours & Gift Baskets Available London, Ontario 519-680-7912 • surelyhomemade.com

Downtown London is working with Tourism London, downtown hotels and the London Convention Centre to promote businesses to visitors this summer. In particular the organizations are working with them to distribute the Downtown Guide and the new visitor dining guide, Taste Downtown London, to help people find places to dine. www.downtownlondon.com Last year London City Council agreed to get public feedback on a proposed program to allow food trucks. The current Food Truck Pilot Proposal was heard by the Community and Protective Services Committee on April 28th. Many councilors remained hesitant about the pilot program going forward as written and the proposal was tabled for a special meeting before council the first week of May. The proposal worked its way between city departments for months and has been refined and revised along the way to avoid the bureaucratic red tape that plagued Toronto’s food truck initiative. The City liberalized the initial food truck plan, and proposed a much less restrictive version that balances the interests of stakeholders and recognizes and encourages entrepreneurial spirit. As of this writing it is expected that a new food truck licence will cost a vendor $1,225. Initially, the City Policy Coordinator stated that an impartial Food Truck Advisory Review Panel, made up of local food industry experts, was expected to provide knowledgeable opinion and recommendations regarding food truck strategy in London. In addition, the panel was anticipated to be charged with encouraging culturally diverse and original menu offerings, and endorsing the promotion of healthy eating. But the latest report that went to politicians stated that menu-vetting (read micro-managing) is too complicated to be part of London’s food-truck plan. Under the new proposal, City staff will be able to designate locations based on such criteria as proximity to restaurants, schools and neighbourhoods. There will be is a 25-metre buffer zone separating food trucks from existing restaurants. Food trucks will also be required to keep their distance from schools, and vendors will be required to keep a log of their whereabouts. Food trucks will be required to close for business between 3 am and 7 am. Food trucks are subject to standardized health and safety regulations and inspections. The proposed food truck by-law amendments appear to provide reasonable recommendations and safeguards, making the pilot much more accessible to entrepreneurs. However, it is still too early to try to define what London’s food truck streetscape will look like and if there will be significant changes to the pilot proposal.

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The swanky Rhino Lounge Bakery and Coffee Shoppe is the latest venture for the River Room Private Dining and North Moore Catering team. The stylish lounge is situated in the former gift shop at Museum London, and the rhino in the logo is a direct and thoughtful reference to artist Tom Benner’s iconic aluminum sculpture of a white rhino, which has called the front lawn of Museum London’s home for nearly 30 years. www.fb.com/rhinolounge In June, artist Ron Benner will be installing a photographic/ garden installation in Xi’an, China, which the Museum in Xi’an is organizing for him. The director there is planning to maintain this garden installation as an on-going contemporary art project in this amazing site. Benner’s photographic/garden installation at Museum London will be celebrating its 10 year anniversary with its annual Corn Roast on August 24. www.museumlondon.ca Chef Dani Gruden Murphy has joined The Root Cellar and the On the Move Organics team. The newly renovated premises will open on Monday, May 5 (a soft opening with a grand opening to follow once The Root Cellar is licensed). For the first few weeks, they will be featuring prix fixe dinner specials on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. We can expect lots of new spring dishes featuring local organic fare (as always), a move to table service (the take-out counter will remain open all day), and local wine and craft beer offerings to follow soon. The Root Cellar will also be the home of the newly-incorporated London Brewing Co-operative (English-speaking Canada’s first worker-owned brewery). www.onthemoveorganics.ca Luis Rivas and Elsa Garcia and family continue to wow guests by providing Latin flavour and ambience at their new and much larger True Taco Authentic Comedor Latino restaurant, across from their former premises, at 784 Dundas Street. This is a lively cantina with vibrant red walls and plenty of comfortable seating areas, including a private room. The original True Taco opened after perfecting its business model and building a loyal following at its Saturday operation at the Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market. The restaurant offers up a spectacular all-day breakfast of huevos rancheros, sunny-side up eggs with homemade sauce served with locally sourced beans and tortillas. Handmade

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pupusas are a specialty and are made with rice or corn flour tortillas typically stuffed “de queso” (fresh cheese) or chicharron (fried pork) and served with refried beans and crudito (traditional cabbage relish) and tomato sauce. Central American offerings include burritos, tacquitos, quesadillas, enchiladas and corn-husk wrapped pork and corn meal tamales. They are expecting to apply for a liquor licence in the coming weeks. www.truetaco.com The Soho Diner has been earning rave reviews since it opened in early February. The diner is located in the premises of the former Lemon Tree Lebanese Restaurant, directly across from the Viet-Thai Restaurant at 223 Horton Street at

featuring: Crêpes and More • Fried Rice Delite Dominic’s Italian Eatery • Treats London’s Shawarma • Sushi N Sushi Daily Planet Café

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№ 47 | May/June 2014

Clarence. This new breakfast and lunch hot spot is open seven days a week from 11 am to 4 pm. Chef Chris Howard’s menu offerings include Fried Buttermilk Chicken with homemade coleslaw, prosciutto and tomato bruschetta on sour dough and the Ultimate Grilled Cheese with aged cheddar, Swiss, mascarpone and jalapeño. www.sohodinerlondon.com

Kathryn Banasik and Robin Azzopardi`s Byron Freehouse continues to receive rave reviews for a menu of comfort foods, specifically updated riffs on gourmet versions of classic quick-bistro fare. The Freehouse’s beautifully appointed 1288 Commissioners West patio has one of the largest areas for al fresco dining in the city. www.byronfreehouse.ca

Restaurateur Greg Efstatheu and Covent Garden Market produce merchant Chris Doris are expected to open Olive R. Twists in the space with what is arguably the best patio downtown. The new restaurant will occupy the premises formerly occupied by Upfront at the Market and Chauncey Smith’s.

Black Trumpet Chef Scott Wesseling has introduced new spring and summer lunch and dinner menus. The expanded lunch menu includes a couple of different burgers, a first for Black Trumpet, one using bison and the other venison! The restaurant’s elegant courtyard patio, one of London’s gems, is now open. www.blacktrumpet.ca Zack Agathos from Icarus has had some delays with construction approvals due to City reviews taking a long time. As of this writing he’s predicting a mid-May opening. Agathos will begin with a soft opening without a liquor license. London Training Centre’s three-week Local Food Skills program continues through the spring, summer and fall. The LTC grows ecologically-raised food at the farm just west of the city. They will be selling their vegetables along with baked goods at the Masonville Farmers’ Market on Friday mornings. London Training Centre will be hosting its annual fundraiser on Thursday July 17, at the farm. The “Food for Thought” event, formerly held in September, will know be called “The Feastival.” www.londontraining.on.ca

ss ne ch d oo ou e G et T d ma urm 72 me a Go nce 19 o H ith Si w 1050 Kipps Lane, London 519-673-6606 www.kippslanefish.com

TUES–THURS: 3–7:30 FRI: 12–7:30 SAT: 3–7:30 Closed SUN & MON

Gre at L oca l BB QM eat s&

Meats & So Much More! We are your London outlet for Metzger Meat Products, The Whole Pig, Blanbrook Bison Farm and Lena’s Lamb, with sauces and spices from The Garlic Box, Pristine Olive, Stonewall Kitchen, and Traditional Portuguese Sauce.

Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market

While Fair Trade has been a core focus for Fire Roasted Coffee (FRC) since its inception in 2006, FRC has expanded its direct trade relationships with organizations like Cafe Justicia from Guatemala. FRC recently announced a new direct trade relationship with a co-op of small family farms in the Lake Kivu region of Rwanda. FRC will be carrying one of the five micro lots of this light, bright and buttery coffee. These types of relationship can create real change in the global community through farmers achieving sustainable livelihoods by growing outstanding specialty coffee. FRC and Habitual Chocolate announced their recent collaboration with Lifford Wines & Spirits, a wine provider that focuses on quality wines from family-owned vineyards. Lifford’s has arranged a cellar of reds and whites that

Sau ces!

Hormone & Drug-Free Beef, Pork, Bison & Lamb 100% Local — from Our Farmers to Your Table

• Saturdays, 8am–3pm • 226-376-6328 • jardines@saucymeats.com

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taste delicious on their own, and are offering rich reds to complement Habitual Chocolate’s dark, in-house chocolates, and crisp whites to sip with lighter chocolates. www.fireroastedcoffee.com The Church Key Bistro-Pub, with its innovative farmto-table inspired menus and stellar craft beer selection, celebrated its fifth birthday on May 1. Owners Pete and Vanessa Willis say they will begin serious celebrations in July. www.thechurchkey.ca Downtown London’s The Raja Fine Indian Cuisine also turns five this summer. In appreciation to their clients, they will be offering a free appetizer to patrons with a minimum purchase of $50 for two. The Raja is also serving an Express Lunch for downtown workers who have a limited time for lunch. www.rajafinedining.ca

NOW OPEN

Open WED to SUN 11am to 10:30pm

Stratford

Co-owner Jeffrey Leney tells us that the new Pazzo Bambino, located in the former Pazzo Bakery, is essentially a food shop serving pizzas, sandwiches, antipasti, salads, Italian sweets, espresso drinks and focaccia with a focus on take-out. There are 30 seats for those who wish to dine in. Designer Ron Nuhn took the former bakery concept and blew it up, creating an operatic ambience and an exciting space. www.pazzo.ca The Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival, presented by GE Café Appliances, will take place earlier in the season than usual, on the weekend of July 18–20. Historically held in September, the event celebrates local cuisine, welcoming great guest culinary personalities, local artisanal producers and farmers, and outstanding Stratford chefs. This year’s theme is Coast to Coast to Coast and the 30th Anniversary of the renowned Stratford Chef School. Meet some of the top young chefs under 40 from across Canada — from Newfoundland to the N.W.T. to B.C. — all award winners, many trained in Stratford, and others associated with Gordon Ramsay, Jamie Oliver and Anthony Bourdain. With over 150 chefs, farmers, producers, Ontario wineries and craft brewers, cheese makers and culinary personalities, this is one of the largest culinary festivals in Ontario. www.savourstratford.com Stratford’s newest culinary trail is a sweet treat! The Savour Stratford Maple Trail is the third in Stratford’s culinary trail offers. This self-guided tour presents 10 maple-inspired stops with offerings that range from aged maple balsamic vinegar, to a maple-smoked bacon BLT and a maple chai latte. Other Savour Stratford culinary trails include the Chocolate Trail and the Bacon & Ale Trail, each available all year round for $25 plus HST. www.visitstratford.ca/mapletrail Looking for Chocolate? Come July, Chocolate Barrs is moving from 136 Ontario Street to 55 George Street West (formerly The Sun Room restaurant). Be sure to check out the new digs for tasty treats. www.chocolatebarrs.com

Five Fortune Culture RESTAURANT

366 Richmond Street at King www.fivefortuneculture.com

226 667 9873

www.eatdrink.ca

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GE Café Chefs Series Cooking Classes offer fun hands-on cooking classes with celebrated Ontario chefs in Stratford. On May 4, Chef Joshna Maharaj of Ryerson University will be paired with Lailey Vineyard Winery. On May 18, Chef Dennis Tay of Richmond Station will be paired with Tawse Winery. On May 25, Chef Jordan Lassaline of Local Community Food Centre, Stratford will be paired with Rosehall Run Vineyards. Purchase tickets online. www.visitstratford.ca/gechefs The restaurant and lounge are open at The Bruce, with the hotel opening May 24. Executive Chef Aaron Linley describes

his menu as “Nouveau Ontario” — imaginative, ambitious, eclectic cuisine marrying global influence, modern French technique and the very best of Ontario. www.thebruce.ca Come to the wild side on May 10 & 11 and June 14 & 15 in the Search for Morels, as seasoned forager Peter Blush of Puck’s Plenty leads you along the beautiful Avon Trail, hunting for wild edibles and wild mushrooms. Take away Peter’s favourite recipes to showcase your fresh picks. Information and tickets at www.visitstratford.ca/tastings Enjoy 2–3 hour morning or afternoon Flavours of Stratford Culinary Tour in downtown Stratford. Meet some of the faces behind the places and learn tips, tricks and techniques while savouring samples along the way. Tours run Wednesday to Saturday, May to October. www.visitstratford.ca/tastings Celebrate pork with Hog Wild Week in Stratford June 16-22. From the Bacon & Ale Trail, tasting delicious pork and beerinspired treats to visiting selected restaurants and pubs that are creating special menus, pork events and tastings devoted to pork… and bacon, too. Stratford is not only the home of the Stratford Festival but also of the National Pork Congress, June 18-19. www.visitstratford.ca/spring

growers & creators of fine lavender products

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Steed & Company Lavender, part of a 45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta

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Canadian entertainers from a variety of musical genres perform at the Stratford Blues and Rib Fest, June 20–22, as award-winning ribs are served for a weekend of delicious BBQ along with a Vendor Village Veterans Drive in Stratford. www.stratfordbluesandribfest.ca Visit the Stratford Perth Museum and share a favourite dish at The Big (Canadian) Lunch – a community lunch – on Sunday June 29 from 12 noon–2pm. www.stratfordperthmuseum.ca

Se a so

MOTHEn ROpening ’S May 11 DAY

Ann l 519-494-5525 BLOOuaM 47589 Sparta Line, Sparta CELEBRA TIO buds@steedandcompany.com June 21–29 N Open Wed-Sat 10-5; Sun 12-4 Mother’s Day through Christmas

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Our readers want to know, so send us info about your culinary events, fundraisers, and regional news. We’ll print as much as we can, and there is no charge for this service. With BUZZ in the Subject line, send to: editor@eatdrink.ca.

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№ 47 | May/June 2014

in the garden

Incredible Edibles Old Favourites, and Some New Ideas By ALLAN WATTS and RICK WEINGARDEN

here are more and more old heirloom seeds available today, and the selection is nothing short of incredible. Growing your own food affords you many more options than you will ever find at the grocery store. In the garden or on the plate, the diversity allows for so much creativity and choice. The value in growing your own food is incredible on your wallet as well! Fresh is best and it doesn’t get any fresher than growing your own. The following are a collection of some old favourites and some new varieties we are looking forward to trying.

Dragon’s Tongue Arugula

Greens: One of Our Favourites

Arugula, also known as rocket, is always part of our garden as we love the spicy greens in salads and pastas. Wild arugula, a perennial, offers a more peppery flavour and crunch. This year we will try the wild arugula called Dragon’s Tongue. It has beautiful red veins running through the green leaf.

Dinosaur Kale

Kale is very tasty and is easy to grow. Kale is both ornamental and edible, and is very nutritious. Dinosaur, or Lacinato kale, is an Italian heirloom and is a customer favourite. Fizz is a new variety for us this year. The plant is a more open, lower growing plant with flat, cut grey leaves. It is a very good salad variety when picked young.

Fizz Kale

Lettuce is expensive in the stores, and you can grow your own gourmet greens for much less. Lettuce that you’ve cut just before eating is one of the best things you can sink your teeth into. In only three to four weeks after planting, you can begin eating baby leaves. Each seeding will provide about five cuttings and then it will be time to re-seed. Mesclun salad mixes offer an instant cutting salad. An heirloom mix has varieties with mouth-watering names like

Flashy Troutback Lettuce

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Troutback, Blush Butter, and Red Ruffled Oak. Use lettuces as ground covers and underplantings in both the garden and containers. They offer great colour and texture, and are beautiful and edible! Spinach is often grown in the veggie patch. Classic varieties perform well in the early spring or late fall. The tropical climber Malabar spinach is an heirloom from Central America. This variety does very well in the heat of summer. Harvest from the plant right through summer into fall. Because it climbs, it does need support for four to five feet.

Cucamelon cucumber

Now for a Little Crunch

The Cucumber: A delicious and unusual cuke that produces apple-sized, yellow gems is the Lemon Cucumber, a pretty vining plant that needs four to five feet of support. It’s the perfect size for a salad for two. And so is the Cucamelon (Mexican Mouse Melon), a tiny cucumber the size of the end of your thumb that looks like a miniature watermelon. This climbing vine is fun for anyone, perfect for salads, pickling and snacking! Radishes: If you have not tried the Water melon Radish, you must, for colour alone. It is also refreshing, mild and unique. Its deceiving white skin hides the pretty pink flesh that really pops on the plate! Another rare radish is the Rat’s Tail Radish. Unlike its cousins, this radish doesn’t grow below the ground. It is the ripened seed head on the plant. Brussels Sprouts are little wonders that add great flavour to foods. Green ones are wonderful, but this year we look forward to trying Red Ball, not only for the red colour, but because this variety is known for setting the sprouts more easily.

What Else Is “New”?

The Goji berry, native to the Himalayas, has been tested successfully in our climate. It becomes a prolific fruiting shrub, approxi mately 3.5 feet in diameter. The Goji is known for its health and nutritional properties. It can be eaten fresh off the plant or dried for storage.

Watermelon Radish

Nasturtium Cherry Rose Jewel Edible Flowers: Beautiful and incredible edibles must include edible flowers. Introduce edible flowers as pollinators that benefit the whole garden. Nasturtiums, calendula and borage are great varieties to grow for adding to salads or to use as edible decoration. There any so many incredible edibles! Make your summer experience more incredible and grow some food and enjoy the diversity that is now upon us. RICK WEINGARDEN and ALLAN WATTS own Anything Grows SEED Co. (www.anythinggrows.com). They can be found at the Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market on Saturdays, and at various gardening events around the region.

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wine

Sipping from Norfolk County Three local wineries with a focus on the grape By KIM MILLER

inally it seems the deep freeze is over. The sights and sounds and smells of spring are finally upon us. If you are anything like me, then this change of season results in the need to break free of your four walls and explore new territories. If you find yourself up for a scenic, meandering sort of drive, this is the trip for you. In just over an hour’s travelling time southeast of London, you will discover Norfolk County,

billed as “Ontario’s Garden.” It is a haven of family-run farms that offer an abundance of family fun, fresh produce, crafts and, of course, wine. Most of the wineries here produce fruit wines, which in their own right can be quite delicious. Here, however, we will focus on the three wineries that have endeavoured to repurpose their once profitable tobacco farms and produce their wines from grapes.

Bonnieheath Estate Lavender & Winery Bonnieheath is owned by Steve and Anita Buchner, lifetime farmers each in their own right. Their extensive property includes vineyards, orchards, prairie grasses, lavender fields and natural wetlands, all of which are available to be explored. It is their goal to provide guests with an authentic agricultural experience and at the same time provide a sophisticated winery atmosphere.

Winemaker Terry Rayner, of London, takes his craft very seriously, despite the whimsical names he gives to his wares. One might say he has boldly gone where no winemaker has gone before. Terry has taken two hybrid grape varieties, both used rarely, and then only for blending, and turned them into blockbusters — namely Frontenac Gris and Frontenac Rouge.

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lots of tropical fruit on the nose. It is medium bodied with loads of pear and papaya on the palate. The finish is strong with citrus, honey and mineral. “crooked wrench RED” is the 2012 Frontenac Rouge, also $16.95. This wine is a rich, dark cherry colour which exhibits aromas of thyme, blueberries and violets. The palate is intense with earthiness and spice. Beautifully balanced tannins provide a long, lingering finish. “don’t count your CHICKENS” is the 2012 Frontenac Gris, available at the winery for $16.95. It is a pale straw colour and exhibits

Bonnieheath Estate Lavender & Winery 410 Concession, 12 Townsend, Waterford www.bonnieheathestate.com

Burning Kiln Winery

This is the home of the Ontario Wine Awards “Winemaker of the Year” award winner for 2012, Andrzej Lipinski. His wines are extra special because of an ancient method of grape drying that he has modernized somewhat to suit our climate. He is considered the pioneer of “appassimento” in Ontario, a method whereby the grapes are picked and basically sun-dried in whole bunches. This method intensifies the fruit flavour which can be extracted from the berries. The 2010 VQA Chardonnay at $14.95 a bottle is a gem. It is lightly oaked and gives off the perfume of apple pie and mineral. A full mouth feel tapers off to a smooth, clean finish.

Even more striking is the 2012 VQA Strip Room, 60% merlot, 40% cabernet franc. Impressively, this wine was chosen as the official wine of the Ontario Legislature in 2012. It is a dark plum colour sporting a huge nose of dark fruit, black pepper, cedar, coffee and smoke, all of which soften into a long appealing finish. Burning Kiln Winery 1709 Front Road, St. Williams www.burningkilnwinery.com

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Villa Nova Estate Winery

Carol and Phil Ryan are the proprietors of this incredibly diverse estate. The property is bisected by an ancient river valley, resulting in a wide range of terroir. Hilltops provide the perfect vantage point for vines; old pastures, wetlands and hardwood forests are home to grassland birds, wild turkeys and deer. The 2012 VQA Trout Fly Off Dry Riesling, $12.50, is a classic example of this European vinifera varietal. It has a pale yellow green colour which compliments its floral bouquet. This is a crisp and refreshing wine that basically punches you in the mouth with green apples and ripe apricots. The finish is long and lingering. The 2012 VQA Pinot Noir, $15.95, is another classic grape varietal from across the pond that responds beautifully to our climate here in southern Ontario. This prime example is a beautiful deep garnet colour. The nose is reminiscent of Burgundy with tons of ripe cherries, strawberries and earth. A very easy drinking and well balanced wine! Villa Nova Estate Winery 1449 Concession 13, RR#4 Simcoe www.villanovaestatewinery.ca

Pinot Gris

Reisling

Norfolk County has lots and lots to offer for those taking the time to explore it. Take the time to peruse www.norfolkfarms.com. It is an easy to navigate site which will help you make the most of your visit to the area. Have fun, buy much, travel safely! Cheers! KIM MILLER lives in London with her spouse and two children. This is why she studies the many attributes of wine.

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BEER MATTERS beer matters

Bocking the Trends The Robust Charms of Bockbier By THE MALT MONK

t’s time to join a revolution — a revolution born of thirst for big, rich, full-flavoured lagers. At the forefront of this revolution are seasoned quaffers who keep gravitating away from the prevailing trends in craft beer marketing culture — such as the race for the most eclectic brew or the biggest hop bomb, or the endless quest for the most radical brew, or status symbol, flavoured Belgian clones — to a return to basics. Basics have been the sustaining elements in traditional crafted beer styles and brewing; they are balance, taste, silken drinkability and warming comfort. Many of today’s big brews lack some or all of these refinements. According to the histories I have become acquainted with, the cradle of the brewing art was not Belgium but Germany, and of its traditional styles, bockbier

(or simply “bock”) is universally accepted as the apogee of 1000 years of the Teutonic brewing art. Bock is my all-time favorite go-to beer for sipping, pubbing, and to mate with good food because of its diverse sub-styles. Bock also has a natural toasty sweetness, because unlike the big Belgian ales which get their strength from the addition of candi sugars, Bock derives its strength from large amounts of crafted malts. Bocks are woefully under-represented in the local markets and in commercial craft brewing enterprises in general. Too bad, because bock has so much to offer the robust beer fancier.

Bockbier: The Lager with a “Kick”

Bockbier’s historic roots reveal the reasons for its longevity and why it was, and should remain, so popular. Bockbier originated in the 14th century as a dark, malty, strong, aged ale made in the town of Einbeck. It was wildly popular for the big malty body hiding its strength. The style migrated to Munich, where the local dialect pronounced “Einbeck bier” as “ein bock bier” or “billy goat beer” — “bock” being a ram goat. The name became a

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humorous reference to the beer’s strength so to this day we see a ram goat associated with bockbier labeling/marketing. Another innovation happened to the strong dark brew from Einbeck in Bavarian brew houses — it became a lager. Brewers took the old heavily malt accented Einbeck ale and subjected it to bottom fermentation at cool temperatures and long cold conditioning periods, to produce a rich dark malty-roasty robust lager with strength, yet that is incredibly smooth, balanced and satisfying. Bocks varied in strength from 6% to 13%, rivaling wine as table fare. These characteristics made bockbier widely popular for centuries as both a stimulating drink and as a meal beverage. Bavarian bock breweries were kept busy supplying demand .

Diversity of Style

As bockbier became more and more popular, German brewers offered diversity of style by changing the strengths and types of malts used. The earliest variations were of “Dunkelbock” (dark bock) with a rich red Christmas bock (Weihnachtsbockbier), Doppelbock (double strength) and Eisbock (an ice-process bock of imperial strength). Next, a tawny-red medium strength bock appeared for the Easter lent festivals (“Fastenbock” — Paulaner Salvator is the historical benchmark of this sub style). And then, as the new pale malts became available “Mai Bock” (May bock) appeared for the spring festivals. Also called helles bock or heller bock, this is a deep golden lager of extra strength (6% to 7%) — essentially a strong Edel hell lager. So, aside from the traditional dark bock lagers (usually a winter season brew) bock

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drinkers now had Amber Lenten bocks and golden Mai Bocks to choose from, and bock became a three-season phenomenon as refrigeration technology advanced. Unfortunately bockbier’s popularity waned as the new wonder of the brewing art, Bohemian Pilsner, eclipsed the popularity of darker, more robust lagers. Today, outside of the few traditional Munich brewers and older commercial German brands, bockbier has had only marginal resurgence in the current craft brewing renaissance.

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Local Examples & Recommendations Outside of the wonderful Ayinger Celebrator and Paulaner Salvator imported German commercial offerings we see at the LCBO occasionally, there are some fairly good examples of the bock styles available from local crafters. The beauty of locally brewed bock is that there is nothing quite like new bockbier fresh from the tap — it’s a treat for the senses and just so awesomely satisfying. Grand River Brewing offers a fairly feisty example of a spring bock called “Dog Stalker April Bock.” It’s a tawny amber bock with red highlights, which has toasty-sweet malt richness but finishes dry with some herbal bittering. I buy it on tap when I see it. This year’s release was particularly good, so I put in a supply of bottles as well (LCBO #337352) Junction Craft Brewing offers a fall and a spring bock on tap. I’ve sampled both and I prefer their “Bockscar Spring Bock” — light brown and deliciously malty-toastyroasty, lightly sweet with good balance and a hop bite in the finish, a good drinkable bock. Amsterdam Brewing makes an exceptional spring bock. It’s a dunkel bock but very tasty and satisfying. It gets good ratings and for good

Malt Monk’s Brew de Jour

My recommendation for this edition comes from the spring LCBO Brewer feature of four new Beau’s offerings. Of the four, one well-crafted brew stood out. It drank well alone as a spring patio quencher but was just made for food pairings. Beau’s White Pepper Saison (LCBO # 378794) is a bright, fruity, sparkling imperial strength saison infused with just enough white pepper to make a crisp piquant impression which compliments the spicy hopping in

reason; it’s a rich malty bock with lager smoothness in spades. In spring it usually appears on tap, at better craft beer pubs, and in bottles (LCBO 208942). Mill Street Brewing makes a practicable HellerMai Bock that appears on tap now and then — they bottle it occasionally too. But it is the Mill Street winter dunkler bock that is worth a trip to the pub — deep brown, roasty toasty, lightly sweet, balanced noble hopping, a first rate quaff and a decent bock worth seeking out. For home imbibing Creemore UrBock is a serviceable enough dark bock but lacks the robustness of larger bocks (LCBO #219659). It does pair well with a variety of cold cut sandwiches and sausage dishes so I usually have a few around for visitors and late season hockey games. I’m fortunate that my favorite brew pub usually has all or most of these on tap, but unfortunately they are seasonal and the kegs drain out far too fast. For a bockbier fancier it’s a long wait until they appear again and I find myself wishing there were more bocks available year-round. Maybe a local crafter reading this will take pity on us bock lager quaffers and fill that void.

this big fruity ale. A natural companion for creamy rich dishes, this is a good stand-in for wine. I paired this with a creamy shiitake chicken fricassée with great results. Highly recommended but a limited release. Buy it quickly, before it’s gone. THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a passionate supporter of craft beer culture. He invites readers to join in the dialogue at maltmonksbeerblog.wordpress.com/

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BEER MATTERS theatre

Perfection Is So Overrated Donald DISHES on Theatre By DONALD D’HAENE

“I

abhor the idea of a perfect world. It would bore me to tears.” I hear you Shelby Foote! Perfection is so overrated and boring. Call me twisted but during my quarter century in theatre, I loved it when things went wrong. When inevitably something hit the fan, two things invariably popped into my mind: first, glad this happened to/because of me, and second, I wonder if I will write about this one day. I was cast in my first theatrical show for London Community Players at The Palace Theatre, Gordon Pinsent’s A Gift to Last, back in 1992. I went up to ask the director a question at rehearsal and the answer was, “Why are you talking to me?” Later during the run, the fire alarm went off during the big funeral scene. I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry, but you can bet I didn’t ask! My first big break was as the Bell Hop in Port Stanley Festival Theatre’s Lend Me A Tenor in ,93. The cast and team got along like gangbusters — for the most part. I have since learned this is the norm but I remember there was some frustration in terms of whether we would be able to pull the show off. It didn’t help that opening night was the first time we ran act one and two together and with the set. Let’s just say that everything that went wrong opening night worked in this crazy comedy and we kept it all in — especially after the

Out of Town

standing ovation and the rave reviews. It’s interesting: in some shows everyone gets along from day one, and everything works like a charm, but come opening night the audiences just aren’t feeling it. I’ve had few of those experiences. Mine have been more of the gloriously imperfect kind. For example, more than twenty years ago, I was cast in a show Out of Town and the actress I played off refused to kiss me during the rehearsal process. To state that we weren’t getting along would be to put it mildly. I know she thought she was a reincarnation of Sarah Bernhardt. Regardless, the director kept demanding a kiss. I finally asked, “Well, it isn’t because I’m gay, is it?” “Of course, it is.” I wanted to shoot back, “Pucker up buttercup, you know how many gays Sarah Bernhardt kissed before she ended up on Broadway!” but chose instead, “You’ve got to be kidding. You’ve probably kissed more guys than I have!” I don’t recall one line from the show, let alone the plot, but I’ll never forget that “actress” for two reasons: When I said two sentences in the wrong order during a performance she went, “tsk-tsk!” to the audience, and I got an unexpectedly passionate kiss on opening night. Talking about realism, or lack thereof,

Lend Me a Tenor

House of Frankenstein

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physical contact is often faked on stage. I just witnessed the first real slap in ages in Venus in Fur at The Palace Theatre’s Procunier Hall. I wanted to stand up, applaud and yell, “Again, but this time leave a mark!” Once, to get in the mood for my character’s big scene in Elgin Theatre Guild’s Jitters , I had an actress slap me off stage. “Not hard enough.” I had her keep doing it until I got the “red” I was aiming for. I rationalized that I was helping her come out of her shell. By closing night, she was winding her arm just like a baseball pitcher. Frankly, I’m the most imperfect person I know for I always find unique ways of screwing up. Once, while rehearsing a show, we went for drinks after. The cast suggested we order pizza. “I don’t mind picking it up,” I said. Who knows why but I walked back from the pizza place holding the pizza like it was a briefcase under my arm!! My only response to their dumbfounded faces: “Hey guys, I’ve never delivered pizza before!” I’ve chosen the hard way over the ‘right way’ on more than one occasion.

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A Gift to Last When I was cast as the monster in another Elgin Theatre Guild production, House of Frankenstein, I was merely required to grunt on stage the entire play, until taking a potion at the end, after which I miraculously spoke — with an English accent. Funny play but lame ending, I thought, so opening night, I was in my Franken-tux in the green room and sighed to the other cast members, “Too bad I couldn’t spice up the ending.” As I spat out the word spice, I spotted a wedding veil and some make-up. “Wouldn’t it be a kick if I

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came out after taking the potion as the Bride of Frankenstein?” The laughter that just the expression of the idea caused had me in the veil and rouge in moments. My entrance stopped the show and unfortunately the hearts of the directors. “It’s alive!” took on a whole new meaning, for they wanted to kill me and had me veil-less the next night. One of them has never spoken to me since, for which I cry into my pillow every night. So many more stories, so little space. Ilyas Kassam was so right when he wrote, “There is beauty in the imperfect. Thus I lust over the flawless, and fall amorously forceless to the flawed.” (Reminiscence of the Present: Spiritual Encounters of the Analytically Insane) I promise more flaws are forthcoming. Meanwhile, you have a London Fringe Festival of 40-plus shows to see this June. Let the new stories and games begin. DONALD D’HAENE is Editor of donaldsdish.ca. Twitter @ TheDonaldNorth and email: donalddhaene@hotmail.com.

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The Devil’s Picnic Travels Through the Underworld of Food and Drink by Taras Grescoe Review by DARIN COOK

icnics are usually imagined as affectionately as being sunny and cheery with the Green Mist, potato salad and pink lemonade. also comes with But they don’t have to be. If you’re the not-sofeeling up to it, grab a wicker basket and affectionate a plaid blanket, find a grassy spot in your reputation of favourite park, and vicariously indulge driving many in forbidden food with Taras Grescoe by famous artists reading The Devil’s Picnic: Travels Through and writers insane. the Underworld of Food and Drink (Harper Cheeses forbidden in the Perennial, 2005, $22.95). A journalist from United States are those made with raw, Montreal, Grescoe visits seven countries unpasteurized milk aged for less than 60 over twelve months, sampling cultural days. It is the idea of the raw milk not going delicacies that could get you in trouble with through the pasteurization process to kill the law if you possess them, or harm your disease-causing pathogens that irks people, health if you consume them. This is a picnic although critics of pasteurization argue it not for the faint of heart, easily-offended, kills all the good enzymes necessary for puritan-minded, or health-conscious. flavour. Grescoe tracks down the famous He starts with hjemmebrent, a moonshine Epoisses cheese originally made by 16th from Norway known for giving a hangover Century Cistercian monks in a fromagerie like no other. After his second cup, Grescoe in a French village. This is the type of was “sufficiently anaesthetized,” certain cheese that is both appetizing and putrid the end result was more important than at the same time. Grescoe informs us that the taste. He writes: “All of the aesthetic Canadian cheese shops don’t seem to have pleasures one might experience in sharing a the same legal issues with importing these good Scotch or burgundy were absent with varieties as the U.S.A. Interestingly, in Paris hjemmebrent. You were sober then you were it is illegal to carry Epoisses on the metro drunk.” It is paradoxical that Norway has because of its offensive odour. liquor with such a sinful reputation, while Grescoe writes, “Almost every European the country is very strict with alcoholic laws. nation boasts some abstruse gastronomic However, one of Grescoe’s contentions is tradition that its neighbors find unsanitary, that the more something is denied, the more incomprehensible, or just plain disgusting.” likely the public will want it, In Spain, he tracks down latching on to the notion that the secretive dishes in out-of-theforbidden fruit of the Garden of way restaurants, like criadillas, Eden was eaten largely because cooked bull’s testicles considered it was forbidden. His experiences a delicacy during bull-fighting with absinthe in Spain, France, season. Also from Spain, Iberico and Switzerland have similar ham is rated the best in the world debilitating effects as Grescoe by many chefs, yet is banned learns centuries-old recipes from the U.S.A., punishable and rituals from subcultures by up to ten years in prison that consume it. Grescoe or a $10,000 fine, because the Taras Grescoe discovers that absinthe, known Department of Agriculture felt

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