Little Book of Sydney Villages by CityofSydney

LITTLE BOOK THE of

SYDNEY VILLAGES DISCOVER THE LOCAL TREASURES

SYDNEY

N WALSH BAY THE ROCKS

SCALE 1000 metres

CBD & HARBOUR PYRMONT

POTTS POINT

CENTRAL

DARLING HARBOUR

WOOLLOOMOOLOO

GLEBE KINGS CROSS

HAYMARKET & CHINATOWN

DARLINGHURST

WEST CHIPPENDALE REDFERN

EAST SURRY HILLS

NEWTOWN WATERLOO

SOUTH ERSKINEVILLE

GREEN SQUARE ALEXANDRIA ROSEBERY

PADDINGTON

Words by Sally Feldman. Photography by Adam Hollingworth, Sarah Rhodes and Destination NSW. Cover image: Franchi Brothers Italian Bar, Oxford Street, Paddington. Published by Hardie Grant Media (hardiegrantmedia.com.au) on behalf of the City of Sydney. Printed by Offset Alpine. Reproduction in whole or in part is not permitted without written permission from the publishers or City of Sydney. The publishers regret they cannot accept liability for errors or omissions contained in this publication, and the opinions and views contained herein are not necessarily those of the publishers. All images are copyright of the respective photographers/ organisations and may not be copied or used in any form. Information is correct at time of print in 2015 but may be subject to change.

FOLD BACK FOR CITY MAP

Like all great world capitals, Sydney is a collection of villages, each with its own unique atmosphere and local characteristics – whether it’s the design culture of Surry Hills, Newtown’s indie scene or Paddington’s elegant style. The best way to discover the array of possibilities in these villages is to explore “Sydney is a city them for yourself. This of villages offering collection of classic a kaleidoscope of Sydney experiences will tastes, cultures immerse you in village and experiences. life – wherever you Each community are in this wonderful, offers something multifaceted city. unique, with iconic destinations and a distinctive style, from the historic to the hip. I hope this guide helps you find something amazing and unexpected.”

Clover Moore Lord Mayor of Sydney

CONTENTS Calendar of events 24 hours in Sydney’s villages

02 04

CENTRAL The Rocks & Darling Harbour Walsh Bay Haymarket & Chinatown

06 08 10 12

EAST Potts Point & Kings Cross Paddington Darlinghurst Surry Hills

14 16 18 20 22

WEST Pyrmont Glebe Newtown & Erskineville

24 26 28 30

SOUTH Chippendale Redfern & Waterloo Green Square & Alexandria

32 34 36 38

Useful information and transport

Sydney New Year’s Eve

CALENDAR OF EVENTS Go to whatson.cityofsydney. nsw.gov.au for more events.

JANUARY–APRIL

Sydney Festival

Australia Day australiaday.org.au Sydney Festival sydneyfestival.org.au Chinese New Year Festival cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/CNY Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras mardigras.org.au Art Month artmonthsydney.com.au Biennale biennaleofsydney.com.au Sydney Christmas

MAY–AUGUST Sydney Writers’ Festival swf.org.au Sydney Film Festival sff.org.au Vivid Sydney vividsydney.com

Newtown Festival

Pyrmont Festival of Wine, Food & Art pyrmontfestival.com.au

Vivid Sydney

SEPTEMBER– DECEMBER Sydney is Fashion sydneyisfashion.com.au

Sydney Writers’ Festival

William Street Laneway Festival williamstreetpaddington.com.au Newtown Festival newtowncentre.org/festival

Art & About Sydney artandabout.com.au

Surry Hills Festival www.facebook.com/ surryhillsfestival

BEAMS Arts Festival beamsfestival.com.au

Tropfest tropfest.com

Sydney Good Food Month sydney.goodfoodmonth.com

Kings Cross Festival kingscrossfestival.com.au

Sydney Fringe Festival sydneyfringe.com

Sydney Christmas sydneychristmas.com.au

Glebe Street Fair glebestreetfair.com

Sydney New Year’s Eve sydneynewyearseve.com

3PM

Glebe Foreshore Walk

24 HOURS

IN SYDNEY’S VILLAGES We’ve found the best ways to make the most of your day!

7AM

EARLY MORNING

Join inner-city dwellers for a caffeine heart-starter at Tropicana Caffe in Darlinghurst or Sly in Surry Hills. Then take an arty walk guided by the Sydney Culture Walks app (sydneyculturewalksapp.com).

8AM

MORNING Take in

expansive views of the Anzac Bridge and Sydney Harbour with a stroll along the Glebe Foreshore Walk. Or book in for a morning tour of Sydney Fish Market in Pyrmont and watch the daily seafood auction.

Hyde Park

9AM

BREAKFAST Tuck into

a healthy, hearty, modernIsraeli breakfast (couscous trifle, anyone?) at Kepos Street Kitchen in Redfern. Or head to Bills in Surry Hills – the place that first put Sydney breakfasts (and corn fritters!) on the map.

11AM

MID MORNING

Immerse yourself in the magnificent science and design exhibits at the Powerhouse Museum in Pyrmont. Or splurge on Australian fashion at The Intersection of Glenmore Road and Oxford Street in Paddington.

1PM

LUNCH Mix it with the

locals, office workers and shoppers over yum cha at Marigold in Chinatown. Or enjoy burgers, salads, sandwiches, pastries and great coffee among the herb and vegie gardens of The Grounds of Alexandria.

EARLY AFTERNOON

Explore the extraordinary collection of contemporary Chinese art at White Rabbit Gallery or NG Art Gallery, both in Chippendale. Celebrate in style with a champagne afternoon tea at The Victoria Room in Darlinghurst, or enjoy a cycle through Hyde Park. 6PM

Black Penny

EARLY EVENING

Join the theatre crowd for a glass of wine while you drink in the harbour views at Theatre Bar Harry’s Café at the End of the Wharf in Walsh Bay. Or kick off your night with a POST DINNER Queue 11PM drink at Black Penny in Surry Hills, with gelato fans at Gelato or a craft beer or mulled wine at Messina in Darlinghurst, Surry Arcadia Liquors in Redfern. Hills or Pyrmont and choose from an array of flavours. Or take a magical moonlit walk along the DINNER Settle in Sydney Harbour waterfront from 8PM for some laid-back Walsh Bay via The Rocks and on contemporary Australian cooking to Circular Quay. at Glebe’s neighbourhood favourite, Glebe Point Diner. Or grab a pavement table at Fratelli LATE NIGHT Still 12AM Paradiso for terrific cucina Italiana hungry or thirsty? Pop in and Potts Point people-watching. for bang-on burgers or fried chicken and drinks at Mary’s, one of Newtown’s best and busiest small bars. Or wander down the hill from Potts Point for a signature Sydney experience – a pie with a view at Harry’s Café de Wheels. NG Art Gallery

SYDNEY HARBOUR BRIDGE M1

WALSH BAY

BRIDGE

RIE QUA

HA W

MAC

LIAM

TUN

NEL

DISTR

EAT/ DRINK

FOV

SHOP

EAU

RKE

BUS STOP

EASTER

BOU

SURRY HILLS

SYDNEY LIGHT RAIL (SLR) or TRAIN STATION

X S T

CRO

BETH

ELIZA

IAM

DOUBLE harbour, Clustered around a glittering BAY Sydney’s centre is all aboutTH diversity – U SO laneway bars from sky-high towers and RD to bustling Asian food halls and chic boutiques. A year-round calendar of major events and sheer variety of galleries, museums and theatres adds to the mix. N

SEE

Chat Thai

WILL

BIO

Bay

IBUTO

KINGS CROSS

CENTRAL

LME R

DARLING POINT RD

E COLL EG

PITT

ETH

ELIZA B

CHA

MAC

YORK

WIL

GE OR GE

ITT

LEE

CHIPPENDALE

BAY WOOLLOOMOOLOO

Double

Darling Point

PER

MUSEUM ST

CENTRAL SYDNEY LIGHT RAIL

REG ENT

ELAN

Clarke Island

TAXI RANK

MOO

PAR K

OCEAN

ABERCROMBIE ST

BROADWAY

COW

RD O

PADDY'S MARKETS

ST JAMES

XF O

TTLE WA

HAYMARKET SLR

SYDNEY HARBOUR NP

HIL

CITY

PARK TOWN HALL ST

RPO OL INFO KIOSK GO ULB URN ST CAPITAL SQUARE SLR

HAYMARKET

CLEV

LIVE

SLR

POTTS POINT

MARTIN PLACE

CROSS INFO KIOSK BATH URST

DIXON STREET NIGHT MARKETS

ULTIMO

TRI

DIS

SLR

MARKET

INFO KIOSK

Garden

SLR

STE

RIS

HAR

DARLING HARBOUR

CIRCULAR QUAY ST

SYDNEY KING ST

ROYAL BOTANIC GARDEN

SYDNEY

RD HICKSON

EXP

WYNYARD

SUSSEX

PYRMONT BAY SLR

INFO KIOSK

CAHIL

NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM SEA LIFE SYDNEY AQUARIUM

SLR

THE ROCKS MCA AUS

INFO KIOSK

PYRMONT AUSTRALIAN

HARBOUR

BR AD FIE LD

OBSERVATORY HILL PARK

Fort Denison

SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE

BRIDGECLIMB

500 metres

LEAY

SCALE

TUNNEL

PADDINGTON MARKETS

WOOLLAHRA

CENTRAL

Robertsons Point

KIRRIBILLI

George Street, The Rocks

CENTRAL

EAT/DRINK Relax with

THE ROCKS & DARLING HARBOUR LOCAL VIBE: A PLACE TO CELEBRATE From cobbled courtyards and hand-hewn sandstone to the city lights shimmering on the water, The Rocks and Darling Harbour pay homage to Sydney, from European settlement to the bicentenary and beyond.

Harbourside shopping centre

SEE Explore The

LOCATED

Directly northwest of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 10 minutes.

KEY AREAS

MUST-DO

Get a bird’s-eye view of Sydney and beyond with Sydney BridgeClimb.

VISIT

therocks.com; George, Argyle darlingharbour. and Harrington com Streets; King Street Wharf, Cockle Bay Wharf, Darling Walk and Harbourside.

Rocks, the historic site of Australia’s first European settlement in 1788, and marvel at The Argyle Cut – hand-hewn by convicts to connect Sydney Cove with Darling Harbour and Millers Point. Be inspired at the Museum of Contemporary Art. Play, discover and relax at Darling Harbour, home to family friendly sites the Australian National Maritime Museum, SEA LIFE Sydney Aquarium, WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo, Madame Tussauds Sydney and the Chinese Garden of Friendship.

locals and a beer at historic Rocks pubs including Sydney’s oldest, The Fortune of War, and The Argyle. Pick up some pastries for brunch or lunch at Baroque Bistro and book dinner at the stylish Sake Restaurant & Bar. Enjoy the Opera House views from the rooftop café of the Museum of Contemporary Art, or chill out over a cocktail and ‘dude food’ snacks at The Push, underneath The Russell Hotel. Indulge in an exquisite lunch or dinner at Quay, one of Australia’s – and the world’s – best restaurants. Stroll the Darling Harbour promenade to find everything from seafood to steaks.

SHOP The Rocks’ cobbled

laneways and squares are bursting with shops selling clothing, mementos and more. Wander the weekend Rocks Markets, with its vibrant range of artisan crafts, jewellery and food. Browse the Museum of Contemporary Art’s gift shop – offering crafts, glassworks, ceramics and more. At Darling Harbour, indulge in shopping at Harbourside, open until 9pm daily.

Sydney Aquarium

CENTRAL

WALSH BAY LOCAL VIBE: HISTORY – TAKE A BOW Once the beating heart of the city’s working harbour, Walsh Bay’s grand old timber wharves are now dancing to a new cultural rhythm – of drama theatres, performance spaces and galleries.

LOCATED

MUST-DO

KEY AREAS

VISIT

1km north-west of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 40 minutes. Hickson Road, Piers 1-9, Fort Street.

Head to Observatory Hill Park for a picnic with milliondollar views. walshbaysydney. com

The Theatre Bar at the End of the Wharf

EAT/DRINK Enjoy a

drink and pre-show dinner at The Theatre Bar at the End of the Wharf or at buzzy Café Sopra. People-watch over lunch at Sydney Dance Lounge. Drink in the history of Millers Point (and an ale!) at Australia’s oldest brewery, The Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel, or at the 170-year-old Hero of Waterloo. For waterside dining, try Ventuno Pizzeria or Simmer on the Bay. Grab mouthwatering dumplings at Lotus Dumpling Bar.

The Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel

SEE Book tickets for the

Sydney Theatre Company, Sydney Dance Company or Bangarra Dance Theatre, where many of Australia’s best and brightest performers can be seen. Take a dance class at the Sydney Dance Company. Download or pick up a map and follow the Sydney Theatre Walk, which honours Australia’s greatest actors. Or take in the Sculpture Walk, with highlights including Phil Price’s dazzling kinetic piece, Tri, and Jimmie Durham’s startling and quirky Still Life with Stone and Car. See the Sydney Harbour Bridge from a new perspective as you walk under it.

SHOP Stop off for supplies

Sculpture Walk

at Fratelli Fresh for Italian staples, fresh produce, wines and homewares.

Observatory Hill Park

CENTRAL

SEE Start at the elaborate

Chinatown Night Market

seating pagoda housing the Haymarket Visitor Information Kiosk. Visit haymarketchamber. org.au to download the historical walking tour app. Lose yourself in tiny thoroughfares like Kimber Lane, with funky street art and lighting. Order a box of dragon beard candy at Friday night’s Chinatown Night Market. See a show at the grand old Capitol Theatre, and if you’re visiting over Lunar New Year, join colourful celebrations in Dixon Street.

HAYMARKET & CHINATOWN LOCAL VIBE: ASIA ON A PLATE – 24/7 From morning yum cha to evening Korean barbecue and modern Thai, you’ll never go hungry in this vibrant, bustling hub – even after the rest of Sydney has gone to bed.

EAT Classic Cantonese

Kimber Lane

LOCATED

1.5km south of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 20 minutes.

KEY AREAS

MUST-DO

Mingle with the locals for yum cha at the Marigold or East Ocean restaurants.

Dixon, Sussex and VISIT George Streets; chinatown.com.au; Campbell and haymarket Pitt Streets. chamber.org.au

Paddy’s Markets

options include Golden Century Seafood, Marigold or East Ocean, while The Eight and Waitan add contemporary style. For the best barbecue duck, head to Tai Wong, and for dumplings to Din Tai Fung. Busy foodhalls offer cheap and cheerful options, from Korean barbecue and Japanese sushi to Malaysian laksa and Vietnamese pho. In the ‘sub-villages’ of Thaitown and Koreatown, find exceptional Thai at Chat Thai and Korean BBQ at Dae Jang Kum. For authentic Malaysian, there’s nothing quite like Haymarket’s Mamak.

SHOP Bag a fashion

bargain at a vast array of boutiques and malls. Pick up a tonic from a Chinese herbal medicine shop. Join the throng at Paddy’s Markets from Wednesday to Sunday for a vast selection of cheap-as-chips goodies – from fresh produce to fashion, electronics, souvenirs and homewares. Explore exotic produce at Asian supermarkets and the vibrant Chinatown Night Market, a mix of food, fashion and family fun. If your feet can still carry you, check out World Square Shopping Centre for more than 90 major and specialty retailers.

EAST

MAC QUA RIE

Pyr m

Jo h

Bay

SYDNEY

PYRMONT

POTTS POINT

HIL

SCALE 500 metres

BOU

T RS HU

ERN

SHOP SYDNEY LIGHT RAIL (SLR) or TRAIN STATION

PHILL BUS STOP

TAXI RANK

RIBU TO

PA R

DIST

RKE

WN CRO

EAT/

DRINK REDFERN

CENTENNIAL PARK

MOORE PARK

PDE

PADDINGTON MARKETS

ORE

SEE

EAST

RS LME

PADDINGTON PADDINGTON RESERVOIR GARDENS

ANZAC

ELA

BOTAN

HA WYND

BIE Inner-city cool meets genteel urban REDFERN ROM C ABER style in an area of Sydney that embraces individuality, community and creativity. Come here to soak up history at PHILL EVELEIGH IP ST street level – from the graceful terraces of Paddington to the rakish café society of Potts Point and Surry Hills.

IRE

SURRY HILLS LIBRARY SURRY HILLS VO MARKETS N SH

VICTORIA BARRACKS

CHA

DARLINGTON

BETH ELIZA

RD D

MAC LEAY

Y ST

S & Dollbaby Wheels

ELAN

Y CIT

Y AR

RIA

SURRY HILLS FITZ

CENTRAL

GEO

EAST

RUSHCUTTERS BAY

DARLINGHURST GAOL VI

BIO

KINGS CROSS ORGANIC MARKET, FITZROY GARDENS EL ALAMEIN FOUNTAIN

DARLINGHURST ST

BROADWAY

CHIPPENDALE

COCA COLA SIGN

TAYLOR SQUARE

CENTRAL SYDNEY LIGHT RAIL

SLR

CLEV

LEY

RPO

KINGS CROSS

NEL

STAN

ULTIMO

TUN

MUSEUM OL

INFO KIOSK

STANLEY STREET EAT STREET

XF O

RGE

TTLE WA

LIVE

WOOLLOOMOOLOO

CITY

PITT

PARK

ELIZABETH BAY

TOWN HALL

CROSS

LLANKELLY PLACE LIGHTS

Cockle Bay

RIS HAR

Blackwattle Bay

M1 ST JAMES

CENTENNIAL PARK

EAST

EAT/DRINK Macleay

Macleay Street, Potts Point

POTTS POINT & KINGS CROSS LOCAL VIBE: PLAYGROUND FOR GROWN-UPS

Llankelly Place Chester White

Long-time home to artists and poets, the famous and infamous, this is an enclave of renewal and reinvention – where classic art deco meets chic modern eats, cool boutiques and funky beats.

Street is teeming with eateries, from hip Japanese Cho Cho San to Greek at The Apollo. Local favourites are Macleay St Bistro, Cafe DOV and Fratelli Paradiso. For fine dining with a view, head to Otto Ristorante in Woolloomooloo, or try its modern-Asian neighbour, China Doll. Stop at food truck Harry’s Café de Wheels for a pie to go. For jazz and drinks, head to Riley St Garage or Chester White in Potts Point. You’ll be spoilt for choice at the restaurants in Llankelly Place – big medallion lights will guide the way. Cosy up at small bars like The Roosevelt, Hinky Dinks or Eau-de-Vie.

SEE Explore leafy streets

The Roosevelt

LOCATED

1.5-3km east of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 25 minutes.

KEY AREAS

SHOP Macleay Street,

MUST-DO

Bag a pavement table at Tropicana Caffe, birthplace of the Tropfest short-film festival.

Macleay Street, VISIT Darlinghurst and kingscrossonline. Bayswater Roads, com.au Llankelly Place.

Kings Cross

Potts Point, has been reborn as a stylish enclave for fashion boutiques, homewares stores and upmarket food emporiums, while Kings Cross offers plenty for souvenir hunters and gatherers. On Saturdays, pick up provisions at the Kings Cross Organic Market in Fitzroy Gardens.

lined with elegant Victorian terraces. Book a guided tour through Kings Cross’ bohemian history and colourful ‘underbelly’. Mingle with the crowds at El Alamein Fountain. Visit ‘living museum’ Elizabeth Bay House, or wind your way down to historic Woolloomooloo and its wharves. In the evening, hit a nightclub in Kings Cross or take in a play at the historic SBW Stables Theatre, home to the acclaimed Griffin Theatre Company.

EAST

SHOP Pick up a range of

PADDINGTON LOCAL VIBE: STYLE AND SUBSTANCE A haven of broad, leafy streets lined with ironwork-laced terraces, where young and old come to shop, eat and drink, or walk their dogs in the green expanse of Centennial Park.

LOCATED

3km east of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 35 minutes.

KEY AREAS

Oxford and William Streets, Glenmore Road.

Paddington Reservoir Gardens

SEE Take a tour of the

Victoria Barracks and Army Museum, then take a breather in Paddington Reservoir Gardens. Catch an arthouse movie at the Chauvel or Verona cinemas, or, MUST-DO in summer, head to Centennial Grab a coffee at Tiger Mottle Café Park for an outdoor session at the Moonlight Cinema. By day, on Glenmore Road, then hit the hire a bike to explore the park designer shops. or chill out by one of its beautiful lakes. Visit the Australian VISIT Centre of Photography, as visitpaddington. well as the plethora of galleries com.au in the vicinity.

Paddington Markets

Jackie’s Café

The Corner Shop

Australian-made pieces, from fashion and jewellery to stationery and preserves at Paddington Markets, held every Saturday on Oxford Street. Browse upmarket local designer stores including Scanlan Theodore, Sass & Bide, Zimmermann and The Corner Shop. Indulge in handmade chocolates at Just William or some literary browsing at Ariel or Berkelouw bookshops. Visit a milliner like Neil Grigg or Hatmaker on South Dowling Street. You’ll find Australia’s leading designers at The Intersection: Ellery, Josh Goot, Rachel Gilbert and more.

EAT/DRINK It’s atmosphere galore here, from the old-school Lord Dudley to the modern-rustic flair at Four in Hand and buzzing vibe at The London Hotel. Chill out at Jackie’s Café or Ampersand Café, Bar & Bookstore for coffee with a side of literature. For fine dining at its best, head to Guillaume. The Print Room is an elegant cocktail lounge, while tiny 10 William Street is a buzzy wine bar with good food to match. Head to Italian Bar for pizza and cool live music. 19

EAST

SEE Tour the Sydney

DARLINGHURST LOCAL VIBE: INNER-CITY SOUL It’s Sydney’s individualistic, decadent heart – from the bustle of Little Italy and cool vibe of small bars to the party buzz of Oxford Street – where everybody’s welcome day or night, no holds barred.

LOCATED

1-2km east of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 20 minutes.

KEY AREAS

Stanley, Oxford, Crown and Victoria Streets.

MUST-DO

Join the queue at Messina for the best and most inventive gelato flavours in Sydney.

VISIT

dbp.org.au/ darlo-places

Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras parade

Bootsdarling

EAT/DRINK

Darlinghurst is a diner’s paradise – from TV favourite Luke Nguyen’s Red Lantern Vietnamese restaurant to the noisy fun of Buffalo Dining Club and authentic pizza at Lucio Pizzeria. Around Stanley Street, head to Bill & Toni’s for cheap Italian, or step back in time at the enduring Beppi’s. Bars offer everything from champagne high tea at The Victoria Room to bar food and cocktails – check out Fifty Fifty behind Lord Roberts Hotel, Love, Tilly Devine or the retro Shady Pines Saloon. For a hearty breakfast, look no further than Bootsdarling.

Jewish Museum, dedicated to the history of the Holocaust and Jewish settlement in Australia. Explore Darlinghurst Gaol, now home to the National Art School. See a Darlinghurst Theatre Company performance at the Eternity Playhouse, or take a stroll to Rushcutters Bay, home to the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia. Join the crowds along Oxford Street for the vibrant Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras parade and dance the night away at one of the area’s many pumping nightclubs.

Record Store

SHOP The Oxford Street

end of Crown Street offers a treasure trove of vintage clothing, records, art and collectables. Pick up a modern piece at Black Eye Gallery, Object or Stanley Street Gallery. Refuel with fresh produce at Saturday’s Sustainable Markets in Taylor Square.

Love, Tilly Devine

Gnome

EAST

Garden Life

SURRY HILLS LOCAL VIBE: CREATIVE WITH A TWIST A vintage heaven, where hipsters rub shoulders with book lovers and bar hoppers, and old timers add true local colour. Organic cafés, smart eateries and funky bars make this a one-stop foodie paradise.

LOCATED

1km south-east of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 25 minutes.

KEY AREAS

Crown, Bourke, Riley, Holt and Cleveland Streets.

MUST-DO

Visit the Brett Whiteley Studio, former home and workplace of the renowned Australian artist.

VISIT

shcp.org.au

EAT/DRINK

Cleveland Street is home to authentic Indian restaurants, such as Maya Da Dhaba. Porteño serves up superb Argentinian, Nomad delights with a modern-rustic menu and Spice I Am is a chilli-fest of Thai flavours. Bills still rules for breakfast, while pint-size Gnome across the road can’t be beaten for atmosphere. Sly on Devonshire Street serves great coffee and toasties. Chur Burger is the spot for burgers, El Loco at the Excelsior Hotel is a must for Mexican and Pizza Birra for traditional pizza. Relax at great pubs like The White Horse and Clock Hotel, wine bars like Mille Vini and 121BC, or rock’n’roll cocktail bar Vasco.

SHOP Bag vintage

SEE Take time out at

the award-winning Surry Hills Library. Browse local galleries such as Ray Hughes and Friends of Leon. Discover pocket-size parks with pop-up art installations and creative graffiti. Catch a movie at the revamped Golden Age Cinema, or watch a stellar cast perform at Belvoir St Theatre.

bargains at Surry Hills Markets on the first Saturday of the month. Stock up on stationery at Paper2 or both plants and coffee at Garden Life. Hit designer shops such as Sark Studio, The Standard Store, Collector Store and Workshopped. Stop at Bourke Street Bakery for tasty pastries and Hudson Meats or Maloneys Grocer for top-notch provisions.

The Standard Store

Pizza Birra

ST E GE

COLL

ELIZA

RKE

BOU

CRO

ST T

DISTR

IBUTO

BAPT IS

DANKS STREET DINING PRECINCT

DAN

KS ST

LING

LAC

HLA

DOW

N S T

ROSEBERY

EASTE

GREEN SQUARE

YN T AV ON

ZETLAND

SOU

ABE

O'D

R OU

AN RD IO

'R O

KE UR BO

ELA

500 metres

ALEXANDRIA

SCALE

E H

T US

REDFERN PARK

WATERLOO

PARK

Y VO

LL HE ITC M

SURRY HILLS

PHILL

RAGLA

REDFERN

SYDNEY PARK

MAY

REDFERN STREET

An area on the move, Sydney’s south is shedding its gritty industrial past without skipping a beat. It’s emerging, renewed and refreshed, as a centre for cutting-edge arts ventures, SYD NEY grassroots dining venues and creative entrepreneurs. T S

HAM

PDE WAY RAIL

BOTAN

Cheese

HENDERSON

WYND

NEWTOWN Salt Meats

COPE

EVELEIGH

BETH

ERN

AUSTRALIAN TECHNOLOGY PARK

WILS

REDF

MER

CARRIAGEWORKS, EVELEIGH MARKETS

CHA L

REDFERN

CRO

MBIE

ABER

LEE

DARLINGTON

TY CI

CENTRAL SYDNEY LIGHT RAIL AL BIO N

PIT

ELAN

ELIZ

RIL

URN ST CAPITAL SQUARE SLR

CENTRAL

CHIPPENDALE

CLEV

ULB

s on nst Joh

A36 RD

MUSEUM

WHITE RABBIT GALLERY

PINE STREET CREATIVE ARTS CENTRE

N DE EN

ISS

CAMPERDOWN

BROADWAY

LS O N NE

TA RD

A22

KING

SOUTH

PARRAMAT

INFO KIOSK

CENTRAL PARK

TAXI RANK

RPO

HAYMARKET SLR

ULTIMO

BUS STOP

SYDNEY LIGHT RAIL (SLR) or TRAIN STATION

SS RO

LIVE

FOREST LODGE

HEN

SHOP

SYDNEY

RIS H AR

IGR

WIL

TTLE WA

LIAM ST RY

EAT/

DRINK GLEBE

URST

GE OR GE

SEE

IDG

EXHIBITION CENTRE SLR

TOWN HALL

BATH

INFO KIOSK

SLR

SOUTH

EAT/DRINK Café Giulia

attracts a loyal following, as does bakery Brickfields. Town Bike Pitstop is a cycling mecca serving great coffee and food on the side. Freda’s is the go-to destination for cocktails, while Ester has a superb woodfire-based menu, plus a natural wine list. The Chip off the Old Block is an industrial-style bar where drinks come with a pack of cards. Pubs abound – The Duck Inn is welcoming, serves excellent food and is dog‑friendly, too. Around the corner, The Rose has an extensive wine list and Zigi’s offers wine and cheese from all over the globe.

CHIPPENDALE LOCAL VIBE: ART AND LIFESTYLE Once grungy, this is now the go-to destination for art lovers and hipsters. Host to a growing number of independent, highly acclaimed art spaces, it’s also a haven for caffeine addicts and food-fanciers.

LOCATED

3km south of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 35 minutes.

KEY AREAS

Broadway, Abercrombie, Little Queen and Balfour Streets.

MUST-DO

White Rabbit Gallery, one of the world’s finest collections of contemporary Chinese art.

VISIT

chippendale creative.com

White Rabbit Gallery

SHOP Dubbed Sydney’s

new downtown, Central Park is aimed at the arty and architecturally minded. It comprises plenty of shopping, from the upmarket fashion at Voi to cheap, cheerful and funky homewares at Daiso Japan. Chippendale’s galleries also offer great foraging for books and quirky one‑off souvenirs.

Zigi’s

SEE Use the Chippendale

Gallery Guide to explore the local art spaces – highlights include White Rabbit, NG and The Corner Cooperative galleries. Pine Street Creative Arts Centre is a hub for workshops and exhibitions. Marvel at the Dr Chau Chak Wing building on Broadway – the first in Australia designed by architect Frank Gehry. Watch cutting-edge live jazz at the Sound Lounge at the Seymour Centre.

Brickfields

SOUTH

REDFERN & WATERLOO LOCAL VIBE: PEOPLE POWER With a proud Aboriginal heritage at its core, this edgy Sydney enclave is a trove of Aboriginal art and culture, as well as ubercool warehouse-style galleries, eateries and food stores.

LOCATED

3-4km south of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 40 minutes.

KEY AREAS

Redfern and Danks Streets, Mitchell Road.

The French House

EAT/DRINK Great cafés

MUST-DO

A walking tour of the Redfern Terrace streetart project, led by local Aboriginal people.

VISIT

ssbchamber. com.au

Eveleigh Market

Seasonal Concepts

Baffi & Mo

SEE Browse stunning

artworks at local galleries, such as Aboriginal and Pacific Art. Take a stroll through leafy Redfern Park with its fabulous water features. Watch a performance or visit an exhibition at the Carriageworks arts centre, a magnificent reinvention of the old Eveleigh Rail Yards.

include St Jude, Scout’s Honour, The Fern, Baffi & Mo and Tapeo. Israeli-influenced Kepos Street Kitchen is one of Sydney’s best morning-to-night venues, with a delicious modIsraeli menu. Get stuck into some hearty comfort food at The Eathouse Diner, or try modern-Korean share plates at the hip Moon Park. Arcadia Liquors is a small, inviting, candlelit bar set among a pretty courtyard. Along Danks Street, Mojo by Luke Mangan is a cool, warehouse-style bar and restaurant, while bakery/ café The French House’s pretty corner verandah is a lovely spot for brunch or lunch.

Chee Soon & Fitzgerald

SHOP On Saturdays, pick

up the best fresh local produce at Eveleigh Market in Redfern. Wander through 2 Danks Street, a cluster of contemporary art, ceramics and jewellery galleries, such as Studio 20/17. PYD is an interior-design paradise and The Country Trader deals in exquisite antiques. Fashionconscious bargain hunters should visit the Josh Goot studio warehouse for pop-up sales, while Retro on Regent is for lovers of mid-20th-century collectables. Seasonal Concepts is a quirky mix of flowers and oldwares, while Chee Soon & Fitzgerald stocks both vintage and modern interior furnishings.

37 37

SOUTH

Koskela

GREEN SQUARE & ALEXANDRIA LOCAL VIBE: CITY LIGHTS, COUNTRY FLAVOURS

Kitchen by Mike

EAT/DRINK Bread &

Circus serves all-organic daytime fare. Cipro is the go-to pizza place, while The Grounds of Alexandria and Potting Shed offer rustic food in a garden setting. Rocks Brewing Co is a new warehouse-style microbrewery. In nearby Rosebery, have lunch at Kitchen by Mike, followed by cake for dessert at Black Star Pastry.

Rising like a phoenix from its industrial heritage, Sydney’s next big suburb already punches above its weight with its urban redevelopment and destination shopping and eating.

Mitchell Road Antique & Design Centre

LOCATED

3.5km south of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 40 minutes.

Green Square Markets

SEE Sporty types should

MUST-DO

Say hello to Kevin Bacon, resident pig at The Grounds of Alexandria.

KEY AREAS

Botany Road, Joynton Park, Dunning Avenue, Bourke Road.

The Grounds of Alexandria

try All Sorts Indoor Sports Centre for everything from boxing to futsal, or In2ski for year-round indoor skiing. Meanwhile, Sky Zone’s megatrampoline facility is fun for fitness freaks and families alike. Grab organic produce at Green Square Markets, where profits go to community initiatives.

SHOP Bag a bargain at

Australian Meat Emporium, or stock up on smallgoods at Salt Meats Cheese and bread from Sonoma. It’s a homemaker’s dream – from chains to upscale emporiums Space Furniture and Matt Blatt. Pick up pre-loved pieces at Creative Vintage Centre and Mitchell Road Antique & Design Centre or deals at outlets for designers like Zimmermann. Don’t miss the homewares store with a conscience, Koskela.

USEFUL

EMERGENCY

INFORMATION All you need to know to make the most of Sydney’s villages.

For 24-hour emergency services, dial 000 (fire, police and ambulance) from any telephone. Police assistance line: 131 444

CITY HOST INFORMATION KIOSKS GETTING AROUND THE CITY OF SYDNEY Walking is one of the best ways to get around the city’s villages. What better way to explore, discover hidden gems and experience the local character of an area? Whether it’s local art or the aroma of freshly roasted coffee, when you walk, you can really absorb the environment around you. All the city’s villages are in walking distance of the city centre. Walsh Bay is in easy walking distance from The Rocks, while Haymarket, Pyrmont and Ultimo are a comfortable stroll from Darling Harbour. Public transport allows you to hop between villages speedily and easily, as trains, buses and ferries are all interconnected. The inner city also has a light-rail network. Multi-trip bus tickets or Opal cards are available from most newsagents, convenience stores and kiosks across the city; look for retailers displaying the signs. Most bus trips require a prepaid ticket. For more information, call the free Transport NSW hotline on 131 500 or visit transportnsw.info.

Taxis are available when the light on the top of the car is illuminated. Changeover times are at 3pm and 3am, so flagging one down at this time can be a little trickier. There is a range of taxi companies operating in Sydney. Taxis Combined, 133 300, taxiscombined.com.au; Legion Cabs, 131 451, legioncabs.com.au.

Cycling is another great way to get around. Sydney has a major network of connected cycle routes for a safer ride. Visit sydneycycleways.net for more information and route maps. You can also hire bikes to explore the city independently or with a tour.

SHOPPING TIMES

Most shops, department stores and shopping centres are open between 10am and 5pm Monday to Saturday, and often on Sundays. Late-night shopping usually occurs on Thursday evenings, with many stores open until 10pm. Some shops are closed on Mondays.

Open seven days a week, these kiosks provide maps, brochures and general tourist information at: • George Street, Town Hall: 9am–5pm • Pitt and Alfred Streets, Circular Quay: 9am–5pm • Dixon Street, near Goulburn Street, Haymarket: 11am–7pm • Corner Darlinghurst Road and Springfield Avenue, Kings Cross: 9am–5pm They are closed on Christmas Day.

INFORMATION CENTRES

• Sydney Visitor Centre, The Rocks; 9.30am–5.30pm (closed Good Friday and Christmas Day); Corner Argyle and Playfair Streets, The Rocks; 02 9240 8788 • Sydney Visitor Centre, Darling Harbour; 9.30am–5.30pm (closed Good Friday and Christmas Day); 33 Wheat Road (behind IMAX Theatre), Darling Harbour; 02 9211 4288

EXTRA INFORMATION

sydney.com cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au restaurant.australia.com

CAHIL

RF W HA

MAC QUA RIE

COLL EGE

R IBUTO DISTR

ST ERN

MOO

EAST

CRO

SYDNEY LIGHT RAIL (SLR) or TRAIN STATION BUS STOP

UR KE

ST ST

PITT

RS LME

EAT/ DRINK

PHILL

RD LL HE ITC

PADDINGTON PAR K

The Local Store

From the MOORE grand re-imagining and PARK revitalisation of Pyrmont’s harbourside warehouses and wharves to the quirky, alternative vibe of university suburbs MOORE such as Glebe andPARK Newtown, Sydney’s M1 LA Nwith inner-west is painted a broad G ST brush in vibrant colours. PDE

CHA

ON S

N HN STO JO

LSO N

GE OR GE

LEE

ENT

SEE

TAXI RANK

MCEVO

SURRY HILLS

HAM

WYND

ERSKINEVILLE

BOTAN

ILL EV

ALEXANDRIA

ERSKINEVILLE

ERN

KING

CENTRAL

IP SHOP

PDE

Y WA RAIL

DARLINGHURST

WEST

REDF

EVELEIGH

ANZAC

ON MACDONALDTOWN WILS NEWTOWN

NEL

EN RD

REDFERN

MBIE

KINGS CROSS

TUN

PIT

RO BERC

NEWTOWN RE MO

DARLINGTON

MUSEUM ST

SEYMOUR CENTRE

LIAM

CENTRAL SLR

UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

ELAN

WIL

A36

CLEV

SLR

WOOLLOOMOOLOO

CITY

GO ULB UR HAYMARKET S N T SLR

CHIPPENDALE

PER

RPO OL ST

POWERHOUSE MUSEUM

BROADWAY

HIL

COW

R PA

ISS

TTLE WA

TH OR

A22

UNIVERSITY OF VICTORIA SYDNEY PARK

RIL

LIVE

T RD

CAMPERDOWN CA

EXHIBITION CENTRE SLR

ATTA

PARRAM

GLEBE TOWN HALL

ULTIMO

GLEBE MARKETS

T JO

MARTIN EX P PLACE

ST JAMES

DRUITT ST BATH URST ST

IBUTO

DISTR WENTWORTH PARK SLR

IDG

N MO

FOREST LODGE

TW EN

IGR

MARKET ST

SLR

E IDG

GLEBE R SLR B

MIN

GLEBE INT PO

T CRESCEN

EBE GL

E TH

JUBILEE PARK SLR

SYDNEY

POTTS POINT

PYRMONT BAY SLR

RIS HAR

SYDNEY FISH MARKET

GLEBE FORESHORE WALK

FISH MARKET SLR

SLR

STE

GEOR

THE STAR

REG

500 metres

FLEET

STAR CITY SLR

SLR

SCALE

PYRMONT SYDNEY HERITAGE

RIA VICTO

RE GE

EXP CIRCULAR QUAY BRIDGE ST

PIRRAMA PARK

BOU RKE

ROZELLE

Sky Terrace at The Star (photo: Blue Murder Studios)

WEST

PYRMONT LOCAL VIBE: WORKING THE WATERFRONT Among historic sandstone cottages and cutting-edge modern architecture, an expansive seafood market takes pride of place alongside world-class museums and a glittering casino.

LOCATED

MUST-DO

KEY AREAS

VISIT

2km west of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 20 minutes. Harris and Union Streets, Pirrama Road.

Order the catch of the day for an alfresco lunch at Sydney Fish Markets. pucc.com.au

Pirrama Park

EAT Take in the harbour

views from Jones Bay Wharf at Flying Fish Restaurant & Bar over a lunch or dinner of impeccable seafood. The Star casino is home to world-class restaurants, such as New York chef David Chang’s Momofuku Seiobo, glamour grill Black by Ezard, modern Japanese Sokyo and Balla – Stefano Manfredi’s bright and breezy Milanese fine diner. For casual Italian fare, head to Tappo Osteria for great pizza and Italian craft beers. Or let your belt out at Signorelli Gastronomia, with its generous cucina rustica menu and fantastic food store, complete with cheese room. Sample one of many craft beers at the Quarrymans Hotel, or taste authentic Taiwanese at Blue Eye Dragon.

SEE Immerse yourself

in the interactive wonders of the Powerhouse Museum. At The Star casino, book in for a show at the Lyric Theatre, or indulge in a little flutter. Take a self-guided tour of Darling Island, or a Steamin’ Mondays Cruise with the Sydney Heritage Fleet. Flex your cooking muscles at a class at the Sydney Seafood School, or just relax with a picnic or barbecue at the stunning Pirrama Park.

Sydney Fish Market

SHOP Spend the first

Saturday morning of the month loading up on local wares at the Growers’ Market at Pyrmont Park. Situated in a sandstone terrace, Urban Oasis offers curated fashion and homewares, while St Frock, located in an 1857 sandstone cottage in Union Square, is the go-to place for the latest fashion. And don’t forget to pop into celebrity patissier Adriano Zumbo’s macaron mecca at The Star casino for a sweet fix.

Growers’ Market

Gleebooks

WEST

EAT/DRINK Choose a

multicultural dining spot, from the comfort of Glebe Point Diner to the wicked chilli heat of Spicy Sichuan and the hearty goodness at Tommy’s European Beer Café. Almustafa is the go-to Lebanese eatery, while Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay offers superb views of the Anzac Bridge, as well as a must-order snapper pie. Among traditional watering holes like The Nag’s Head Hotel, plenty of new small bars are springing up. Check out The Little Guy for a range of craft beers, or Mr Falcon’s. Wedge Espresso and Madame Frou Frou are the latest cafés livening up Glebe Point Road.

GLEBE LOCAL VIBE: BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY Rub shoulders with artists, intellectuals and book lovers, feast on an array of ethnic cuisines or sip a boutique brew at a historic pub. Saturday’s sprawling market says it all – eclectic, colourful and quirky. Glebe Markets

LOCATED

3km west of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 35 minutes.

KEY AREAS

MUST-DO

Check out Allan Giddy’s Earth v Sky light installation at Bicentennial Park at sunset.

Glebe Point Road, VISIT St Johns Road glebe.com.au

Tommy’s European Beer Café

SHOP Gleebooks is a

favourite venue for book launches and other events, while Sappho Books will serve your book with a hot cuppa or a glass of red. Spend Saturday fossicking at Glebe Markets, where the crowd is as eclectic as the products on display – vintage clothing, food, fashion, trinkets and antiques. Take home a unique handcrafted piece from the Glass Artists’ Gallery or Inner City Clayworkers Gallery, or browse botanical-themed books at Florilegium.

SEE The Glebe Foreshore

Glebe Foreshore Walk

Mr Falcon’s

Walk takes in Bicentennial Park and Jubilee Park, and stretches all the way to Sydney Fish Market, with wonderful views of the Anzac Bridge and harbour. Glebe’s leafy streets are lined with fine Victorian architecture. Take advantage of the free wi-fi in Foley Park to catch up on emails. Harold Park Hotel has been hosting live comedy and jazz for decades, with regular open‑mike sessions.

WEST

Newtown Hotel

Brewtown Newtown

NEWTOWN & ERSKINEVILLE LOCAL VIBE: HIP AND HAPPENING Black Star Pastry

Barflies, foodies, fashionistas, yogis – this inner-west world is your oyster. Lively, noisy and fun, King Street is the hub for a multitude of indie shops, bookstores, hip bars and multicultural menu options.

LOCATED

MUST-DO

KEY AREAS

VISIT

4km south-west of the city centre (Town Hall); walking time – 45 minutes. King Street, Enmore Road.

An early dinner at Bloodwood, followed by a concert at the Enmore Theatre. newtown precinct.com.au

Holy Kitsch

SEE Check out the

collection at the Sydney University Art Gallery. Catch an arthouse movie at Dendy Cinemas, or discover the next big playwright at the New Theatre. Wander through historic Camperdown Cemetery, an atmospheric oasis amid the inner-city buzz. Take a walk in Sydney Park – a triumphant ‘greening’ of a former industrial site. Or just enjoy the passing parade from one of the many cafés along King Street. Face the music at The Vanguard, known as Sydney’s house of jazz and blues.

SHOP Must-visits for avid

readers include Better Read Than Dead and Gould’s Books. The area is also packed with quirky stores, such as Holy Kitsch and The Floral Decorator in Erskineville. You’ll find retrovintage frocks at Retrospec’d and real vintage at Scrags House of Fashion. Check out the huge button selection at All Buttons Great and Small and beads at Etelage, and the Japaneseinspired fashion at Yoshi Jones. Head south along King Street into antiques and collectables territory – and to Fiji Market for bargain kitchenware.

EAT/DRINK Newtown

is known for its array of ethnic restaurants – from African to Thai. For café fare, don’t miss Black Star Pastry and Brewtown Newtown. Pubs are plentiful, too. In Erskineville, stop at Bar Nosh or head upstairs at the Newtown Hotel to The Animal (its pumping Greek restaurant), The Courthouse Hotel, The Bank, or try the ‘dude food’ at Miss Peaches Soul Food Kitchen at The Hotel Marlborough. Hartsyard and Oscillate Wildly are also cool dining venues. Grab late-night drinks and eats at Mary’s and Earl’s Juke Joint.

cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au 02 9265 9333

twitter.com/cityofsydney facebook.com/cityofsydney instagram.com/cityofsydney