CJ Issue Fall - Winter 2018 by Canadian Jeweller Magazine

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

FALL - WINTER 2018

Canadian Jeweller Magazine DISTRIBUTOR:

KINGSMEN

LTD.

People, Product, Execution, Brand Integrity

DESIGNER PROFILE

42709013 | 920 YONGE STREET SUITE 610 TORONTO ONTARIO M4W 3C7 / $25

DANA

MCLAVEN The intimate interaction

RETAILER PROFILE:

KARAT

FINE JEWELLERY

Canadian Jewellers Association

Creating a new standard LONDON, ON

COMPANY PROFILE:

ASTRA JEWELLERY

A personal touch inspired by the heavens

INFO@KINGSMENLTD.COM

TOLL FREE: 1.855.631.8380

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Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your story? The Canadian story has begun for, the true north strong and free

Compass Star Wherever life takes you, we all need a way to navigate

For more ASTRA stories for your business, contact Astra Jewellery Canada Ltd. at salesandsupport@astrajewellery.ca

Every one has a story

Find your story now...

Daughter

Son

Husband

My family story

For more ASTRA stories for your business, contact Astra Jewellery Canada Ltd. at salesandsupport@astrajewellery.ca

Every one has a story

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FALL - WINTER 2018

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine Magazine Canadian Jeweller

JCK ISSUE 2017

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

ESTABLISHED 1879

ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol. 140 / No. 04 Vol. 138 / No. 02

Editorial EditorialBoard Board

OLI V IER FELICIO

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com

OLIVIER FELICIO Founder and Thoughtsmith / olivier@canadianjeweller.com C A Y L A R A M E Y Managing Editor / cayla@thergmgroup.net TONI-MARIE IPPOLITO Content Creator / toni@thergmgroup.net COR R INA MOSCA

Jean-Christophe Jean-ChristopheBédos Bedos Birks, President & CEO

SHUGO C O T T CUKURS JOR DA N

Birks, President & CEO

DANIELLA VIZZARI D ANIELLA V IZZARI

Haigo Derian L’Oro HaigoJewellery Derian

Editorial Assistant / corrina@thergmgroup.net

Visual Architect / hugo@thergmgroup.net Art Director / scott@rivegauchemedia.com Colour / daniella@thergmgroup.net Graphic Seer Designer / daniella@thergmgroup.net

KARL DELGADILLO Web Guru / karl@rivegauchemedia.com Christine Dwane, Breanne Forbes, Larry Johnson, John Lamont,

L’OroDeVuono Jewellery Gino Specialty Watch Resource

CONTRIBUTORS

Gino DeVuono

CONTRIBUTORS Anne Neumann, Steven B ,Manj Gill, Mike Lawlor, Moshe Lerner

Shawna Lee, Joelle Litt, Mark Lutley, Duncan Parker, Karen Simmons

Joe Gonçalves Specialty Watch Resource Time Central

SALES

OLI V IER FELICIO

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6107 / email: olivier@canadianjeweller.com

Andrea Hopson Joe Goncalves Luxury Retail Executive

SALES Advertising Sales 416.203.7900 x 6107 / email: olivier@canadianjeweller.com OLIVIER Advertising Sales E D I T E MFELICIO A R T I N S tel:

Time Central

Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Marco Canada Miserendino

tel: 416-203-7900 x6112 / email: edite@thergmgroup.net

Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc. Marco Miserendino

ELI NEWMAN Advertising Sales 920 Yonge Street, Suite 610, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7 H E A D O F F I C E tel: 416.203.7900 x6128 / email: eli@thergrmgroup.net

Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc.

Phyllis Richard

Phyllis Richard JewellersVigilance Vigilance Canada Jewellers Canada Inc. Inc.

tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

SALES 920 Yonge Street, Suite 610, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7 Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com tel: 416.203.7900 fax: 416.709.6392 L U C Y H O L D E N General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net

MELANIE SETH

Beth Saunders Richard Rooney Canadian Jewellery Group

Bogart’s Jewellery

Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd.

MONTREAL OFFICE

Beth Saunders Steve TuracJewellery Group Canadian

tel: 514-381-5196

LUCY HOLDEN General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net MONTREAL OFFICE tel: 514.381.5196

Turac Luxury Group Inc.

Steve Turac Moniruz Zaman The Bullion MartGroup Inc. Inc. Turac Luxury

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send Sales your cover label and new address No. to Canadian Jeweller The 920 Yonge St., Suite 610, not Toronto, ON. M4W 3C7 Canada Post Canadian PublicationsorMail Product Agreement 40678000. publisher does assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to BY THE any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the PUBLISHED publisher and in RGM suchGROUP an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount Post Canadian Publications Mail advertising. Sales Product No Agreement 40678000. The publisher does not assume in responsibility for thewithout contentsthe of express any advertisement; any and all of ofCanada the publisher’s charge for such portionNo. of this publication may be reproduced, all or in part, written permission representations warranties Jeweller made in such advertising are thosetoofreview the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liableunder to anythe advertiser for conditions: any misprints all in material adverthe publisher.orCanadian magazine is pleased unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration following tising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publisubmitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its af cation may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editoliates for editorial purposes in any media all (whether internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, inorelectronic the payment compensation to,used the party rial consideration under the following conditions: material printed, submitted electronic, for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text or hardofcopy format) may be by providing such material. Please direct submissions the (whether Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return Gauche 920 Yonge Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in anytomedia printed, electronic, internet, disc, undeliverable etc.) without the items consenttoof,Rive or the paymentMedia, of compensation to, theSt., par-Ste. ty providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian610, Jeweller. Return ON undeliverable Rive Gauche Media, 920 Yonge St., Ste. 610, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4. Toronto, Canadaitems M5Rto3K4.

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Collection

1255 Philips Square #901 Montreal QC H3B3G1 | 514 798 0770 | www.rnbjewellery.com

Departments

Contents

14 EDITOR’S LETTER Top 10 in the world 18 PRODUCT SHOWCASE Products from the hottest brands

48 DISTRIBUTOR PROFILE: KINGSMEN LTD. A Distributor of Distinction

22 STYLE COUNCIL Comfy Casual

62 SHOWCASE: GIA International Gemological Symposium

28 SHOW GUIDE: Istanbul Jewelry Show

66 MARKETPLACE Classifieds

44 DESIGNER PROFILE: Dana McLaven Fine Jewellery

74 LAST WORD By a woman for women

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P L AT I N U M GO LD

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DECEMBER 2014

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Top 10 in the world Olivier Felicio, Editor-in-Chief

Editor’s Letter

IN SEPTEMBER OF THIS YEAR, Canadian Jeweller magazine was voted one of the Top 10 Jewellery magazines in the world. This is a great honour and compliment to the heritage of the publication and its ability to always stay relevant and stand the test of time. To be head-tohead with some serious international competition speaks volumes. Established in 1879, Canadian Jeweller magazine, the oldest magazine in the industry, has seen success, challenges and changes not just from the different social economic times, but also within the media world. The reason why CJM has survived the everchanging landscape is due to its dedication and strong focus on the jeweller and the industry. Because of this, it remains the mostrequested business magazine for professionals due to our readers and advertisers. We are proud to serve our community in highlighting great professionals, forecasting jewellery trends and reporting on what you are looking forward to for another 120 more years. Here is a list of the Best Jewellery Magazines from thousands in the jewellery publication worldwide: 1. National Jeweler Magazine, USA 2. INSTORE Magazine, USA 3. Professional Jeweller Magazine, UK 4. Jeweller Magazine, AUS 5. Jewellery Monthly Magazine | Jewellery & Watch Magazine, UK 6. Jewellery Focus | UK’s Most-Read Jewellery and Watch Magazine 7. The Jewelry Magazine, India 8. Canadian Jeweller Magazine, Canada 9. Solitaire Magazine, ASIA 10. Gold Book Magazine | International Jewellery Magazine, Turkey

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BRILLIANT ELEMENTS TURNKEY TO BUILD YOUR OWN BRAND WITH THE BEST QUALITY

Turnkey Solution | Dictate Your Margins | Quick Turnaround

D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 4 C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M 15 Contact: Harold Cilevitz, 416-460-3403, 905-881-5205, harold@brilliantelementsusa.com

Karen Simmons

Karen Simmons is a Graduate Gemologist (GIA), The Gem Gallerie proprietor and an author of nine books, including: Buying Diamonds for Pleasure and Profit and award winning Chicken Soup for the Soul, which she co-authored with Jack Canfield. Find more details about diamond S.P.A.R.K.L.E.™ in Perfectly Clear, which shares more information about Canadian diamond history and the true value of diamonds.

Joelle Litt

Having a big imagination since childhood, Joelle’s styling career has been a natural fit and a constant evolution of creativity. Clients include Ria Mae, Future Hendrix, Priyanka Chopra, Joffrey Lupul, and publications Elle Quebec, TIME Magazine, Sharp Magazine, Clin D’Oeil and Canadian Jeweller! Find info on Joelle at joellelitt.com.

Duncan Parker

Not only is he VP and jewellery specialist at Dupuis Auctioneers in Toronto, but Duncan Parker is also vicepresident of The Canadian Gemmological Association and past president of Jewellers Vigilance Canada. An educator in gemmology and jewellery, Parker has worked in the industry for over 25 years. If anyone is qualified to be our gemmology columnist, it’s him.

Contributors

J.W. Histed Diamonds Ltd. Vancouver, B.C. Full cut Rounds—Single cut Rounds—Natural Colour Rounds—Treated Colour Rounds Straight Baguettes—Tapered Baguettes—Princess—Grooved Princess Heart—Oval—Pear—Marquise—Cushion—Trillian Emerald—Carre—Asscher—Radiant—Trapezoid—Half-Moon—Rose Cuts Available .03ct to 1/4ct+ single stones for a repair, matched side stones, to 25 stones for a Anniversary Ring

in-stock!...In-Vancouver!...IN-YOUR STORE!

OVERNIGHT! Contact us for a current price list or online at www.jwdiamonds.ca 1-800-663-1458 / 604-681-8519 / fax 604-681-2413

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WWW.CARMENCO.COM • TOLL FREE 1-(888) 825-0527D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 4

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Product Showcase

Ti Sento Milano

The Atelier of TI SENTO â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Milano was born when the centuries turned. Our goldsmiths were the first to bring gold standards to silver jewellery; the first to give silver the respect and attention it deserved. Walking into our Atelier is like finding treasure at the end of a rainbow. www.tisento-milano.com

Paul Hewitt Timeless chic meets the Northern German attitude to life. Determined by minimalistic design and maritime flair, our appreciation of tradition, originality and consistency is reflected in all of our unique collection. Style consciousness, the passion to mix and match styles and distinct quality standards make up Paul Hewittâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s essence. www.paul-hewitt.com

Les Georgettes The Original French customizable jewelry with interchangeable colors. Les Georgettes is an innovative jewelry concept featuring interchangeable and reversible colored bands, which is made in France. By combining the savoir faire of Maison Altesse and Texier, Les Georgettes brings together the finest in jewelry and leather craftsmanship. www.lesgeorgettes.com

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DECEMBER 2014

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Product Showcase

GIA

Put your store on the map and be sure customers find your business by registering on GIA’s Retailer Lookup. Through a city or postal code search, the Lookup allows customers to find local establishments that offer GIA-graded stones or have GIA-trained staff. Sign up today through the Retailer Support Program website at retailer. GIA.edu

From our new Classic Chronograph Collection.

The fusion of sophistication, style and luxury. A 46 mm case with screw down crown, screw back and sapphire UV protected crystal keeps the Swiss made movement safe to 100 m. Complete with an oversized date and day retro-grade, this chronograph movement is accurate up to 1/10th of a second. www.pierrelaurent.com

Sauro

Imagination is the key to Sauro’s Minisphera collection. Sauro offers a vast variety of options to customize your Minisphera bracelet. Base materials are offered in Gold or Titanium, and let your imagination run wild with your personal choice of sphere color. All of Sauro’s sphere options are precious stones such as Amethyst and Blue Topaz, as pictured. If you’re feeling like you need a little extra, feel free to top off your design with your choice of black or white diamonds. Starting at $870 for titanium base, or $2,670 for gold base. We Stand Apart™ www.saurojewelry.com

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Visit us at Expo Prestige 2018

Booth 814

DECEMBER 2014

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1. Style Council

Comfy Casual Red and black are the perfect combination for a classy look this summer. Add matching coloured accessories with some hints of stainless steel and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be set for an easy, breezy look.

2. 22

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

1. The Oris Movember Edition Watch, $2,750 2. Thomas Sabo Ethnic Red Bracelet, $149 3. Simon G LG119 Runway: Tod Snyder Spring 2018

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Not all gems come from under the ground. The Gemological Institute of America supports communities where gems are mined, working with the Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory to build libraries in Africa and helping artisanal miners understand the quality of their discoveries with our Gem Guide. These initiatives help make it possible for regional populations to take a more active role in the industry and ultimately help their community look forward to a brighter future. Our contributions are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu

BENEFICIATION

EDUCATION

Ensuring the Public Trust Through Nonprofit Service Since 1931

INSTRUMENTS

LABORATORY

D E CRESEARCH EMBER 2014

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Show Guide: Istanbul Jewelry Show

Hosts over 18 thousand visitors from 119 countries THE ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW, which was held on October 2018, hosted over 1,000 buyers as part of the International Buyer Delegation Program, as well as 18,953 professionals from the sector. The show has reached great success by exceeding expectations with a 22% increase in the number of visitors compared to the exhibition in October 2017. Organized twice a year, in the months of March and October, Istanbul Jewelry Show created the best platform for realizing around 80% of the exports of the Turkish jewelry sector via two exhibitions that lasted a total of eight days. Recognized as one of the top five jewelry exhibitions in the world, and as Turkeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first and only specialized international jewelry exhibition, Istanbul Jewelry Show - October 2018 put a hallmark on the international jewelry exhibition market both with the exciting booths of 800 exhibitors and brands from all over the world and with new jewelry designs that set the trends for year 2019.

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ŞERMİN CENGİZ: “We are proud of our exhibitions in 2018.” Şermin Cengiz, the founding partner of UBM Rotaforte, which organized this great summit for the 47th time with its 32 years of experience, said, “We are more than glad to have completed successfully our exhibition, which sets the agenda of all professionals of the sector and the global jewelry industry alike. It is a source of pride for us that, despite being an eight-day exhibition consisting of two 4-day parts, Istanbul Jewelry Show helped create around 80% of the jewelry exports of our country. Aware of the fact that every Istanbul Jewelry Show is a major gateway opening our jewelry industry to the world and makes significant contributions to our national economy, we’ve already started working hard to make even greater achievements with our exhibitions in 2019.”

Breaking new records once again Istanbul Jewelry Show - October 2018 Exhibition, which broke many new records in numerous aspects of the event—ranging from number of exhibitors to number of visitors and from ratio of foreign visitors to ratio of local visitors—was realized between March 22 - 25, 2018, drawing the attention of the global jewelry industry to the exhibition and to our country. Compared to the October 2017 exhibition, Istanbul Jewelry Show - October 2018, demonstrated a 39% increase in the number of foreign visitors and a 10% increase in the number of local visitors. Forty-nine per cent of the visitors were from abroad while the remaining 51% were from Turkey.

Showcasing 2019 jewelry trends and new designs! The Turkish Jewelry Industry, which recently managed to get rid of its label as the jewelry contract manufacturer in the world, and increased its reputation with unique jewelry designs, debuted trendy designs from the 2019 Spring/Summer jewelry collections for the taste of global jewelry buyers. Organized every year in cooperation by UBM Rotaforte and Jewelry Exporters’ Association (JTR), the Designer Market brought together at the October 2018 exhibition, the master and young jewelry designers on the same platform. In the Designer Market section, specially created inside the venue, jewelry designers were the center of attention as they showcased their popular designs and jewelry products. CJ

Over 800 jewelry companies and brands representing a wide range of product groups and sectors including gold, jewelry, diamonds, colored stones, precious and semi-precious stones, pearls, silver, silver accessories and silver household items, gold mounters, refinery, watches, molds, shop window decorations, machinery and equipment side industry, safes, software, and logistics and lighting product groups. The most fruitful setting for making new business contacts The International Buyer Delegation Program, which is organized with the purpose of finding new export markets and preserving the market share of the sector, in cooperation by Istanbul Minerals and Metals Exporters Association (IMMIB), Jewelry Exporters’ Association of Turkey (JTR) and UBM Rotaforte, and under the coordination of the Ministry of Customs and Trade of Turkish Republic, once again fulfilled its purpose as a classical feature of the exhibition. Business meetings held throughout the exhibition with over 1.000 professional buyers from Europe, Middle East, America, North Africa and Far East, helped realize a large portion of Turkey’s jewelry exports.

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Feature: Retailer

SHIV CHOKHANI’S

KARAT Creating jewellery of passion to treasure for a lifetime By Andrew Flynn

NESTLED IN THE CHERRYHILL VILLAGE MALL IN LONDON, ONTARIO, KARAT FINE JEWELLERY IS GEARING UP FOR ITS TENTH ANNIVERSARY NEXT YEAR. OWNER SHIV CHOKHANI IS UNMISTAKABLY PROUD TO BE HITTING SUCH A MILESTONE ALONGSIDE THE TEAM THAT HAS HELPED HIM ACHIEVE LONGSTANDING SUCCESS.

“I am humbled to put London, Ontario, on the Canadian map as a hub for creating the finest, amazing one-of-a-kind jewellery in Canada,” says Chokhani, who asserts that his is an independent small business “proudly Canadian-owned and operated.”

from the Gemological Institute of America, is a graduate of the Gemological Association (FGA) from the Gemmological Association & Gem Testing Laboratories of Great Britain and is also a graduate, Certified Gemologist from the Gemmological Institute of India.

“My success is a result of the staff teamwork, regularly updating our knowledge, good networking, thinking out of the box and, most important, the continued love and support of my customers.”

But Karat’s success is not solely his doing, Chokhani quickly points out.

Chokhani has spent a lifetime working in the jewellery trade. “I began diamond cutting when I was at a young age, and fell in love with it immediately, I fell in love with diamonds, and I still love it. Though I wasn’t certified, I was learning from other diamond cutters in Bombay.” Now, his qualifications are truly international: he has Graduate Jeweler Gemologist (GJG) credentials

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“My management team here at Karat Fine Jewellery has over 50 years of experience in the fine jewellery profession,” he says, noting that the team has won awards and industry recognition for fine jewellery designing, excellent craftsmanship and innovation. “We offer fine silver, gold and platinum jewellery, one-of-a-kind unique custom designs, independent designer jewellery and fine branded timepieces,” says Chokhani. “For our exceptional customer service we offer in-house fine jewellery repairs, custom designing and appraisals.”

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“Our designs are meant to enrich and enhance treasured

moments

of your life.”

When Chokhani first started Karat, his main goal “was to be free with my creativity to create innovative and whimsical jewellery and utilize it to establish a successful fine jewellery business. Built with emphasis on excellent jewellery skills, fresh creative ideas, knowledge, honesty, hard work, providing the best product and service to our customers, becoming a pillar of our society and helping our community.” Those goals have evolved over the past nine years. Now that Karat is established as “an honest and creative fine jewellery store,” Chokhani says there are new pathways he’d like to explore. “We would like to start fresh concepts with a new fusion of classic and modern designs and an even better customer service experience. We’d like to establish a new category of genuinely fresh, unique and creative fine jewellery pieces as wearable pieces of art.” From a design perspective, Chokhani says Karat Fine Jewellery fuses old-world aesthetics with new-world fashion to create pieces that are intended to delight customers, to give them something they can treasure for a lifetime. “We use both old and progressive technology which results in breathtakingly unique, wearable works of art,” he says. “Our designs are meant to enrich and enhance treasured moments of your life and each of our designs is an inspiring expression of art to be given its own special interpretation by the person that wears it. We blend classic elegance with modern inspiration, creating some of the most highly regarded and exquisite jewellery of passion with attention to detail and personalized customer care and after care.”

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“The whole business has always been associated with royalty, astrology, history and everything around us,” Chokhani continues. “Mom had jewelry given by her grandmother, which became sentimental. Houses get bigger, and change. But people carry little pieces of jewelry over the years, centuries. You pass it on. For me, it’s associated with so many things around us, the more you learn about it, it’s mind-boggling. It’s more than just a piece of jewelry, it’s a part of someone’s life.” Karat makes a concerted effort to stay on top of the latest trends and innovations, Chokhani says. Staff update themselves regularly through direct networking with other gemologists and seasoned jewellery professionals and designers, attending seminars in trade shows such as JCK, Couture, JIS Miami, AGTA, Vicenzaoro, HKTDC, and Canadian jewellery trade shows. On top of that, they take in online webinars, attend fashion shows and scan related periodicals as well as trade and fashion magazines. “Our focus is our customers, the real superstars of our business. Every time we do a unique, custom fine jewellery piece for them we give complete, undivided attention to all of the details, as if they will be on a red carpet showcasing our fine jewellery.” “People who can showcase on various world platforms that Canada is not only rich in natural resources such as gold and diamonds but also gorgeous, inspirational, creative fine jewellery designs.” Ultimately, he envisions Karat setting a new vision for future jewellery professionals and store owners.“We are confident, positive, and ready for future challenges and to move forward. We are always willing to learn and quickly adapt to market changes while maintaining our quality and excellent customer service.” “By winning awards, we hope we will also inspire many other creative and talented Canadians. In the future, we’d like to hire arts graduates from Canadian universities and colleges. I believe we can convert some of these brilliant students into fine jewellery designers of the future.” Like many small business owners, Chokhani recognizes the importance of giving back. As a dedicated Londoner, he has made a number of commitments to local and national charities and causes. “Over the years, we have supported local charities like Special Olympics Canada, Big Brothers/Big Sisters, the Alzheimer Society, the London Health Sciences Centre, Animal Alert, the United Way, the Dearness Home and Mission Services of London, amongst others,” he says.

“We believe in paying it forward and we often donate fine jewellery for silent auctions and fundraisers for many charities and good causes.” Jewellery, he says, knows no borders and is multicultural. While the rest of the world sometimes seems to be dividing and falling apart, “people come together bound by shared passions for gems and jewellery creating love, peace and harmony.” “Almost every piece of fine jewellery marks a memorable event in my customer’s life; an engagement, a wedding, an anniversary, birth, graduation, a promotion, baptism. In the longer run, it is viewed as a reminder of that time and brings back good memories and happiness. If you look at your own jewellery, you’ll be reminded of the significance of each piece.” What’s next for Karat? Not content with the status quo, Chokhani has some ambitious plans.“At a time when some independent retailer jewellers are taking early retirement or folding, I hope to expand in the near future.”

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give Camera Ready

Jewellery: Flica

receive

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Jewellery: Crystal Dreams CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Jewellery: Limlim Accessories

Jewellery: Buddha to Buddha DECEMBER 2014

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Camera Ready

Jewellery: Micalla

Jewellery: Italgem CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Jewellery: Valima Watches CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Company Profile: United PMR, INC.

REFINING WITH

United pmr , INC.

UNITED PMR, INC. IS A PRIMARY REFINER PROCESSING GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM AND PALLADIUM. They specialize in refining for the jewelry industry, processing everything from scrap to polishing sweeps. From the smallest karated scrap lot to the largest, their advanced technology provides customers the maximum returns, with the most competitive charges on karated and dental scrap, crucibles and slag, silver scrap, polishings/tort filters, filings and grindings, tools, carpet, sludge, floor and bench sweeps, and stone removal and frosting. Casting grains, wire and solder are also available in Gold, Silver, Platinum and Palladium as well as in Brass and Bronze for sample lines and costume jewelry. United PMR, Inc. offers numerous Settlement Options such as check/wire transfer, products, Fine Gold bars or coins and pool accounts. For over 30 years, United PMR Inc. has specialized in refining low-grade materials for the jewelry industry. From polishings, filings and grindings to bench sweeps and floor sweeps, United PMR, Inc. can refine these low-grade materials for precious metal recovery. They also process byproducts such as used crucibles and slag, sink sludge - where precious metals can be trapped in

the sludge, and carpeting from your shop, which can often catch dust containing precious metals from polishings and sweeps. United PMR, Inc. also offers Stone Removal. Their process is accurate, safe and fast! Frosting services are also available upon request. Once your merchandise is received, United PMR, Inc. takes great care in the accuracy of weighing your lot. Your precious metals and stones are always under the surveillance of a video security camera to provide peace of mind that your returns are protected. Stones are carefully removed from your scrap Gold through a non-destructive process, which allows for a safe return of your Diamonds, CZ’s, Moissanite and harder colored stones. After the gemstone removal process is complete, your stones are carefully cleaned, inspected, weighed and packaged for shipping.

Their special combination of technology, prompt service and several settlement options has made many of our customers refer to them as the “Refiner of Choice”. CJ

Check out their website at www.unitedpmr.com for an online offer of $25 off your first refining lot. For more information, call or click today: 1-800-999-FINE (3463) | UnitedPMR.com

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Astra gives jewellery

a deeply personal Company Profile:

touch

Astra

a woman’s life, symbolizing stories and feelings they relate to whether its a particular milestone or occasion. Soon, Astra will be coming to Canada. In September, the brand will begin sales through a distributor based in the heart of Canada with a dedicated Canadian sales and support team. “Everyone has a story,” according to Astra. That story that began with the dazzling New Zealand night sky has grown to embrace a multitude of themes and designs that capture the essence of life experience.

AS ASTRA TELLS IT, the New Zealand-based designer has its roots in the same romantic and intimate inspiration that brings its jewellery to life. “One night, four good friends sat beneath the stars,” Astra proclaims in its self-introduction. “As a million glittering points shone over their heads, we each felt like they were quietly speaking the stories that shaped our lives. Wouldn’t it be incredible, we wondered, if we could let the people of the world share this feeling?” ASTRA Be Mine celebrates romance with a cheeky cupid who dances with his shining bow above moving stones that represent hearts sparkling with love. Since 2013, Astra has been making deeply personal jewellery that lets the buyer create unique pieces that reflect their memories and experiences – focusing on special moments in

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Astra’s story collections of necklaces, earrings, rings and bracelets focus on designs that tell stories that hit the big moments: Love, Family/Friend, Birthday, Anniversary, Passion/ Hobby, Faith/Luck and Wedding. Wear ASTRA Anchor the Soul to find strength, stability and safety when you need it most. Every piece of Astra jewellery comes with the name of its design engraved, linking the piece to its story. The Storybook packaging of each Astra piece comes with a story card that keeps customers connected with the story their jewellery is telling. Wearing Astra pieces to reflect personal moments and occasions in life can be built by collecting a range of different pieces available in a choice of shapes and surrounds, and layering together for a multi-wear look. To ensure that its story collections will stand the test of time, Astra’scollections are handmade from solid gold, sterling silver or stainless steel. They also feature crystal lenses and dancing cubic zirconia stones. Silver items are 14K gold-and rhodium-plated.

“We believe that every story should be encased in the highest quality materials to make it through a lifetime of love,” the company says. The blood-red colour of a garnet is famously associated with love, romance and passion. Also a symbol of protection and regeneration, ASTRA Bohemia could act as a lively stimulant for the heart (wearing ASTRA Bohemia close to your own heart will doubtless help keep the fires of love burning). They’re also waterproof and “made to be lived in,” Astra says. The company has enjoyed success well outside of its home base in New Zealand. After expanding into United Kingdom, the company has received accolades for the originality of its concept and the beauty of its designs. After just six short weeks, Astra opened 80 accounts in the UK and Ireland, with the number now surpassing 100. Retailers have told the company they are impressed by the story and elements of personalization behind each piece, as well as the competitive price points that make it an ideal gifting product. ASTRA Autumn ring captures the delicate beauty of the curling fern frond. As the seasons change, we can rest and reflect – represented by the gentle sparkle of the stones within the pendant. The company won the prestigious CMJ Dragons Den 2017 in the United Kingdom and was recognized by CMJ as the brand to have the most commercial potential. It was also named a finalist in the Brand to Watch category at the UK Jewellery Awards for 2018. Most recently, it has won the Emerging Jewellery Brand of the Year category at the 2018 PJ Awards. CJ

Here’s a closer look at the personal stories that Astra jewellery can be customized to communicate: Family Story

Keep those close to you even closer with pieces that connect with loved ones. Collect them and style together to create your unique family story.

Birthday Story

Celebrate special milestones and keep those memories close to your heart.

Wedding Story

Capture glittering moments on your big day by completing your wedding theme with ASTRA’s coloured range to suit. Make it a dream and wear these delicate pieces for all to remember.

Faith / Luck Story

Hold close what you believe and value in every moment of life’s journey. Show how much they mean to you with personalized pieces from ASTRA.

Love Story

Show how your love has grown with personalized pieces for each moment, special for both you and them.

“As a million glittering points shone over their heads, we each felt like they were quietly speaking the stories that shaped our lives.”

Hobby / Passion Story

Be true to yourself and wear your passion as a reminder of who you are and what you love.

Anniversary Story

Celebrate these special milestones with ASTRA jewellery. Reflect on the different ways your love continues to grow and capture it with personalized pieces.

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Designer Profile: Dana McLaven Fine Jewellery

The

intimate

interaction By Toni-Marie Ippolito

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WHEN IT COMES TO CHOOSING AN ENGAGEMENT RING there can be a roller coaster of emotions a person goes through while shopping for one—from cost to choosing the right stone and style to hoping your special someone will love it. Since shopping for any piece of special jewellery often comes with confusion, stress and excitement, jewellery customers are finding there’s no better way to find that perfect piece than with a custom creation. This is Dana McLaven Fine Jewellery’s specialty. In a time where online sales are booming, there still seems to be a high demand for bespoke creations. Dana McLaven specializes in not only helping people create custom-made jewellery, but she also ensures they are designed with highquality materials and tailored to elements that hold sentimental value for whom the piece is for. This is what her clients are looking for. Creating your own design allows customers to have a deeper connection with what they’re buying. McLaven takes pride in this idea, making sure every customer is happy and educated throughout the design process. Whether it’s a man purchasing an engagement ring or someone requesting a redesign of a sentimental heirloom piece, McLaven makes the experience unforgettable from start to finish. For the designer, starting her own jewellery business was built on the premise of dealing with clients one-on-one. Having worked

“I never wanted to do a retail store. I wanted to be hands-on,” McLaven says. “When I was in sporting goods, I would present to big companies. But with this business, the intimate interaction with the client is what I like. It’s all about the one-on-one. Guys will come in on their own for engagement rings. I do tons of custom bridal rings, which is about 60 per cent of my business. The one-on-one with clients is what I enjoy the most and dealing with people and their special moments.” McLaven says that most of her clientele who come in for engagement rings are mostly male who find her through glowing referrals from previous clients, which is how her business continues to grow. When it comes to the design process, she educates her clients on the type and shape of the diamond they want and works within their set budget to source one from her trusted suppliers. “If they don’t know what type of diamond their partner wants, I’ll send them out to retail stores to look at the different shapes and get a feel for it. Or, I tell them to look on Pinterest or Google, so they can get a visual. I then present them with three stones: two in their price range and one more that’s slightly above their budget, just so they can decide where they want to play.” Once she narrows down the design including stone shape, setting style, and how many additional stones a client wants to add, McLaven works with her Diamond Setter, who has over 40 years of experience, to begin fine-tuning the design with the

Dana McLaven ”The intimate interaction with the client is what I like,” McLaven says. “It’s all about the one-on-one.”

in the sporting goods industry for many years, she made the switch to jewellery about 12 years ago after a close friend, and current colleague who has over 30 years of experience in the business (with whom McLaven still closely works with), introduced her to the world of wholesale diamonds. The idea of creating custom-designed pieces for individuals appealed to her because it meant being a part of something unique.

client. It’s a process that takes about three weeks on average. In terms of stone size and colour, McLaven finds that most of her customers go for the classic look and says coloured stones for engagement rings are not popular. “Mostly I do 1 ct to 1.5 ct stones. I also do smaller and larger, but that is the sweet spot,” she says. “Each piece is different because I work within the

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client’s monetary budget. Most of them are the classic cut being the round brilliant. But, of course, there’s a lot of interest in the oval shape lately and even cushion cut coming in third. However, fancy shapes are always in the mix.” When it comes to current trends in bridal, McLaven says that while the halo design has been huge, she’s starting to notice a resurgence in the solitaire. But Dana McLaven Fine Jewellery isn’t just about bridal, heirloom jewellery has become a big trend in what her customers want. McLaven says redesigning old pieces of jewellery, as well as updating older wedding sets, is the other most popular part of her business, which accounts for roughly 30 per cent. ”I do a lot redesign from the old to the new, taking heirloom pieces and making something special that someone can wear currently and have it as an everyday piece rather than having an old piece just sit in a jewellery box.” The creative aspect of making an old piece modern often starts with McLaven receiving a picture of the old piece and

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coming up with ideas with the client. Do they want a pendant? Are they looking for earrings or a ring? She gets her clients to do a bit of homework and has them send inspirational pictures of jewellery to get an idea of the style they want for the redesigned piece. “The styles in many heirloom pieces are so outdated and people want to wear them. My concept is to keep the stones in the pieces that have the sentiment, and create an everyday item from that cherished piece that you got from your grandmother or whomever it is that left it to you,” she says. “We try to create something that you can wear every day and look at it and think of your loved one. That’s what’s so important, and people are so drawn to that. Often, clients will cry when I present them with their redesigned piece because it’s so special. I always tell clients, ‘If you have those special pieces in your jewellery box don’t let them sit there!’” She and her highly-experienced team also create and design all types of pieces from seasonal designs to anniversary and

holiday gifts to stackable rings, which accounts for about 10 per cent of her business. She notes that stackable rings are becoming popular as add-ons to engagement rings. “Customers will have a wedding band and an engagement ring but then they’ll add another band in there like a push present or to mark a special occasion,” McLaven says. “You can add pink sapphires for a girl or blue sapphires for a boy. Creating a stackable collection is really fun. You can wear one of these bands when you don’t want to wear your engagement ring.” When it comes to the business side of promotion, although McLaven runs mainly on referrals, she says she turns to social media to showcase her work. “I use Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest, and LinkedIn to post my custom pieces as well as fun pieces that make great gifts, for anniversaries or holidays,” she says. “Whether it be a dainty, layering necklace or stackable rings to add to an existing set to mark life’s biggest moments, or fun bracelets and necklaces to make a statement. Each piece is unique and fun for the person receiving it.” Although Dana McLaven Fine Jewellery consists of a small team of players, the level of experience between everyone is astounding. “My Diamond Setter jeweller is an amazing talent and he’s super knowledgeable. Like me, he goes above and beyond for our customers. His skill level and attention to fine detail are tremendous,” McLaven says. This small and mighty team also includes an in-house jewellery Appraiser, who assesses each diamond ring before it leaves the door for client insurance purposes.

“We try to create something that you can wear every day and look at it and think of your loved one.”

For McLaven and her team, making the client happy is top priority for all involved and nothing gives her more pleasure than seeing a happy client. “Everyone hugs me, and I hug them. I’ve been told, ‘You have the most hugging clientele I’ve ever seen!’ I have a great relationship with my clients,” she says. “I also give my clients amazing service. I tell them to ‘please bring your ring in. Let’s inspect it and polish it on the house.’ We stand behind everything and are there for our clients to make them happy. That’s why our business has grown immensely on just referrals alone.” As for the future, McLaven is in the process of dreaming up her own line of jewellery. “It’s something I’m thinking about for the future, creating my own signature style of bridal jewellery.” But for now, it’s all about the one-on-one. CJ

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Company Profile: Kingsmen Ltd.

A Distributor of Distinction: Kingsmen Ltd. Embraces

an ethos of integrity and

impeccable taste

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A PASSION FOR PRODUCT may be the calling card of Kingsmen Ltd., but there is a much deeper ethic that drives the men behind the watch, jewellery and accessory distributor. Fundamentally, Kingsmen is founded on integrity – and an old-fashioned commitment to deliver on promises, to act with complete honesty and openness with partners big or small. “It’s not that our company is better than others, because it’s not,” says Kingsmen CEO Leonard Isayev. “We just take what we believe is a different approach.Do what you say you are going to do. Execute, execute, execute. We use the knowledge and experience we have accumulated by working for some of the industry’s biggest brands, working in small and major markets across the world, and also by having experience of being a local Canadian distributor.” That is the differentiator that has made Kingsmen one of the most successful up-and-coming watch and jewellery distributors in Canada, he says. Do What You Say You’ll Do “We invest into the future of a brand. We do what we promise. We promise a lot and we really do it.”

for formal ladies’ apparel, including the prestigious Texas-based dressmaker Watters. The partnership was an ideal combination of talents, Isayev says.

Kingsmen began less than three years ago when Isayev and business partner Mark Nourani decided to partner on this venture together, fulfilling a long-time plan to create something new.

“That global knowledge and being taught by some of the industry’s most intelligent people really helped us get our feet off the ground.”

With more than 30 years of experience in the watch, jewellery and fashion industry between them, they set out to forge a company that would select a portfolio of brands relevant to today’s market.

Both Isayev and Nourani enjoy an old-school appreciation for fine things – classic fashions, genteel manners, good taste and, above all, a steadfast dedication to their work.

“It was always a goal of mine to have my own company and although I studied international business, I majored in entrepreneurship in university,” says Isayev.“It was a 10-year plan that came to fruition almost to the day of when I originally planned to do it. I put together a business plan and sent it to Mark, we looked at it together, reviewed it with people we trust and then decided to jump in.”

Manners Maketh Man The fact that the Kingsmen name resonates with the Kingsman movies – action spy thrillers that take James Bond-style bespoke fashions, future-vintage gadgets and aristocratic decor to a new level – is no accident. In the movies, the phrase “manners maketh man” has a prominent place: the message is that integrity on the inside is reflected in an exterior presence that exudes style, confidence, and ultimately a solid moral compass. Which is why you’re unlikely to encounter Isayev and Nourani in anything other than a well-cut, dapper three-piece suit.

International Experience Isayev had gained an in-depth understanding of the international watch and jewellery trade over his 15 years in senior business roles for Movado Group Inc. and most recently at Sequel AG in the U.K., across Europe and around the world. Nourani, Isayev’s best friend since early childhood, had a retail background in fashion and for 15 years had been a distributor

“I was living in London, England around the time the first Kingsman movie came out. It was one of my favourite movies and I was leaving the U.K. and I wanted to have some kind of connection to the fact that this company was created while I was living there,” says Isayev.

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Though a young business (Kingsmen was founded less than three years ago), Kingsmen’s progress has been astounding. The company has amassed more than 150 accounts, large and small, and is poised to end the year at almost 200. Isayev believes the rapid success has been a direct result of the Kingsmen work ethic. Brand Builders “Our partners see us as brand builders because we invest a lot into our people and into the brand – whereas sometimes you get guys who will throw it at the wall and see if it sticks. If it does, they’re happy. If not, they just move on to the next brand, which is a model that works and works well, but is not for us.” It takes more effort to focus on brand-building in their distribution model, but Kingsmen is not interested in short-term

investments, Isayev says. When they decide to represent a brand, it’s because they see potential for a viable long-term relationship. “What is unique is that we have an incredible collection of accounts and partners,” he says. Whether it’s a small or large retailer, Kingsmen goes into every meeting with a comprehensive execution plan. “It’s never just about showing product – it’s about ‘What’s the investment? What are our expectations? How are we going to get there? What’s the cost?’ We do a full 360-degree strategy regardless of the size of the retailer.” “We’re very strict about having the right partners because it’s important to enact on what we promised. There are large watch and jewelry companies that will show product, they’ll talk about how nice it is and how many stores they want. But we do an actual purchasing plan, a marketing plan, a markdown plan, a term plan. It is a bit unique. It is a corporate style strategy that we apply to all types of accounts as we believe each owner and their teams want to see how we will work to achieve what we promise”. Exciting Brands Kingsmen’s brands are handpicked and reflect the experience that Isayev and Nourani gained in their time working in the industry. Paul Hewitt, Ti Sento Milano, Sara Miller and Les Georgettes make up the core brands that Kingsmen distribute, and all are very high-quality, well-established producers with track records of solid international sales.

‘We get asked a lot how we grew so much in such a short period of time. We really try hard to do things differently than your typical distributor,” Isayev says.

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“There’s thousands of brands that are out there: they’re beautiful, you have a personal kind of emotional connection to some. We try to take the emotion out of it. We look at the brand itself, the product. Then we look at the company behind the product. They have to have a documented long-term strategy.” “We also don’t want to take on brands that are just limited to specialty boutiques, they have to cross over into majors and chains. We protect the number of stores that we go into but we also know that all brands need exposure to become successful. It doesn’t make sense to have a brand that can’t grow. That would not be good for us nor our retail partners.”

Being True “One of our most important things is that we’ve stuck true to is what we say,” Isayev notes. The importance of integrity is something he learned during his time in the international business. Experience has paid dividends in the formation of Kingsmen. “The global knowledge and being taught by some of the industry’s most intelligent people including, Sian Williams, Janet Nimmons, John Marcheski, Cristina Iodice, Julie Magner, Dianne Reichenbach, who molded me on how to run a business and treat people. It is also our current sales team with the likes of Diane Gagnon, Silvana Juri and Caroline Jobin that deserve all the credit for taking Kingsmen from a idea and a plan, to the strong results and partnerships we have today,” Isayev says. “I learned an incredible amount from .the people I worked with, both from the teams at Sequel and Movado, but also from our distributors. We had countries that were going bankrupt, we had countries who were at war, we had countries that were prosperous that were all of sudden going through huge amounts of anxiety, but in all the cases we worked as partners to be strong and successful during those times,” he says. “It was really just learning through a lot of mistakes, fixing them as fast as possible, and how to treat people, how to take a completely different approach to business.” “As CEO of Kingsmen my role is clear. I am the assistant. My job is to assist our team and partners to be successful. It is that simple.” CJ

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The iconic BEN bracelets

925 Sterling Silver Bold, Unisex and Timeless Handmade Premium Bracelets Designed in Amsterdam since 1997

Buddha To Buddha is more than just jewellery. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lifestyle. A style that EMBRACES LIFE.

GEORGES & BORIS | Buddha To Buddha Canadian Importer 514 212 4264 | buddhatobuddha-canada.ca

Camera Ready

Ultra - Light Titanium Collection Ultra Lightweight - Hypoallergenic Lifetime limited warranty - Designed in Denmark www.beringtime.com

Jewellery: Valima Watches

800-361-6247 info@embix.com www.embix.com

Camera Ready

Jewellery: Valima Watches

800-361-0496 Info@Embix.com www.Embix.com

Tech Showcase

Asiga® 3D Printers from Stuller

SchumacherTech GmbH & Co. KG

Take your custom design business to the next level with Asiga® 3D Printers and let your customers try on their designs before casting them. Asiga is renowned for their innovation and precision, and all machines utilize the same proven technology. The printers come with Composer software, lifetime technical support, and lifetime software updates. Learn more at Stuller.com/Asiga.

SchumacherTech GmbH & Co. KG has many years of experience and know-how in the field of wedding ring production. Anything is possible, from the modernization of existing productions to the development of complete production lines. Their strength is the mechanical processing with lathes, diamond-milling machines, engraving machines, tools and much more. www.schumachertech.com

Matrix 9 The Matrix 3D design software, the most advanced jewellery creation software in the world, offers the most complete suite of design tools available today. With their builders, V-ray rendering software and the new addition of Clayoo 2.5 makes Matrix a must have for any jeweller looking to take custom design to the next level. http://gemvision.com/m9/

European Design Welcome to the new age of jewellery where laser welding makes the seemingly impossible jobs now possible. The Laser Welder R-Evo is Italian engineered for a smooth, reliable, and powerful performance. Take advantage of European Design’s free laser training to use laser technology to its fullest potential. Contact info@europeandesign.ca for more information.

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DECEMBER 2014

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Showcase: GIA International Gemological Symposium

Industry Leaders See Challenges and Opportunities at the GIA Symposium THE FUTURE OF THE GEM AND JEWELRY INDUSTRY is bright, with new challenges creating great opportunities. That was the consensus from Futurescape Forum, the final session of the sixth GIA International Gemological Symposium, a landmark three-day event with nearly 800 participants from 36 countries representing every aspect of the global gem and jewelry trade. Opening the forum, Tom Moses, GIA Executive Vice President and chief laboratory and research officer, commented on the rapid pace of change in the industry while introducing a video from Professor Scott Galloway of New York University. Galloway, who was a speaker at GIA’s 2011 Symposium, offered three challenges the industry will face: continued consolidation in all sectors; the challenge of appealing to talent in a rapidly changing workforce; and disruption caused by laboratory grown diamonds.

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Six industry leaders including Bruce Cleaver, CEO of the De Beers Group, Gina Drosos, CEO of Signet Jewelers, Jason Goldberger, CEO of Blue Nile, Andy Johnson, CEO of Diamond Cellar Holdings, Rahul Kadakia, international head of jewelry at Christie’s and Kent Wong, managing director of Chow Tai Fook, discussed these challenges and offered their predictions for what is over the horizon for the global gem and jewelry trade. The panelists agreed that there are increasing challenges in the retail landscape, but also opportunities, and that customer shopping is more and more integrated across all channels. Rahul Kadakia commented that while 90 per cent of Christie’s auctions are live events, online auctions attract a new audience and offer a starting point for new collectors. Andy Johnson observed that with the majority of people buying jewelry in

retail stores, retailers have a chance to develop a sustainable relationship with customers. The panelists agreed that diversity is a great benefit to any business and that a one-size-fits-all approach to hiring needs to be examined. Jason Goldberger offered that companies should avoid being insular and recognize that a mix of viewpoints is helpful. Kent Wong pointed out that many millennial workers – who bring great value – want to build their own businesses, and that firms should work cooperatively with them. Regarding laboratory grown diamonds, the panel recognized that they are attracting consumer interest, but that customers exhibit a preference for natural diamonds to mark important moments. Gina Drosos commented that consumers have an interest in natural diamonds for special life purchases, and that they are interested in being able to trace the unique story of their diamond. Bruce Cleaver emphasized the contribution of mined diamonds and their positive impact on ten million people in Africa. To close the forum, panel facilitator David Ager, managing director of executive development at the Harvard Business School, asked each panelist for their predictions for the gem and jewelry industry.

Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s: “In time, with less [natural] diamond product, rarity will increase. The diamond business and jewelry business will only get stronger.” Andy Johnson, Diamond Cellar Holdings: “Wealth is growing; there is so much opportunity. In five to 10 years, we will be shocked at the size of the industry.” Jason Goldberger, Blue Nile: “We won’t be talking about channels – online, digital, in-store – that is the biggest guarantee.” Gina Drosos, Signet Jewelers: “I anticipate a highly-enabled digital shopping experience combining online and in-store that will offer a truly value-added service.” Bruce Cleaver, De Beers Group: “For those who can collaborate, can innovative…the building blocks are there for an exciting future.’ Closing the Futurescape Forum and the 2018 Symposium, GIA President and CEO Susan Jacques said, “The future of our industry is incredibly bright. Disruption is not unique to gems and jewelry, and these new challenges are great opportunities.” Jacques continued, “Embrace innovation and change, for those most able to adapt to changes survive and thrive.” CJ

Kent Wong, Chow Tai Fook: “The world should be co-working; that will be part of the business model in the future.”

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Valuing the Invaluable

How to Be A Complete Jewellery Appraiser - Part Three by Anne Neumann

Gemmology

THIS TIME I would like to take a moment to talk about the appraisal document itself and how to present it to the client. In times past, the appraisal was hand-written or typed (badly) on a sheet of pre-printed paper, sold bound in pads by jewellers’ supply houses. These forms were bordered by a pattern to look rather like a large bank note. The detail was slight, and record keeping was virtually non-existent. Gradually, it became apparent that an appraisal was an important document that had many purposes. Lots of useful detail, with or without a photograph, became the expected order of the day. Jewellers who in the past had only done their own point of sale documents, were being asked to prepare valuations for older pieces or ones that had been purchased elsewhere. Insurance companies, rather than accepting a bill of sale for proof of value, were increasingly asking for a third party’s armslength statement of estimated replacement price, along with a photograph of the item before writing a policy. Today an appraisal, as we have covered before, is a document with sufficient useful information to allow a third party to replace a lost or stolen article with one that is identical, or if antique or of off-shore origin, to one that is similar in content and structure. The document should be easy to read and fully understandable with all the appropriate features defined, such as ‘handmade’, ‘custom-designed’, ‘antique’, ‘not readily replaceable’, ‘cast and assembled’, etc. The report must be usable and practical. Gimmicks such as miniature plastic cards, while fun, are not really professional documents and, therefore, are not really appropriate for this purpose (although they can be handy for the traveling client). And, you must keep records. Computer memory is one

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of the least expensive parts of the technology. Easily and cheaply available thumb drives that often have enough room to hold the codes to run the space station, are a great way to ensure the integrity of your files. Remember though, as careful as you are, there are some situations that cannot be prepared for, such as the document, altered by technology, being used to sell an inferior item on EBay or other computer seller services. That is another reason to keep records. If you are contacted by an outraged buyer, it will be easy to pull up the record of your appraisal and note the alterations. You cannot predict how your document will be handled by the customer. However, with good record keeping, you can always produce a copy of the original. Traditionally appraisals were presented on an eight-and-ahalf by 11 sheet of paper, with or without details on the back of the sheet giving a quick diamond lesson. Many years ago, we decided to change it and use a half-size page as the appraisal document instead, with an additional page providing information about the types of appraisals, how to clean jewelry and diamonds, as well as coloured stone information. These were enclosed in a padded vinyl folder. Sometime later, we found the vinyl folder to be impractical, and decided to go with a heavy stock paper folder instead, mostly because we felt that the last thing the world needs is more plastic. No matter how the document may be prepared, both you and your customer must realize that this is a legal document. Your customer is responsible for the security of the finished appraisal, and you are responsible for the accuracy of the information. Give it the most care that you can. All the ‘buzz words’ in the world will not protect you from the consequences of a serious error. CJ

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CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE

2019 AWARDS OF EXCELLENCE

Don’t miss your chance to be a part of the Canadian jewellery industry’s most prestigious and coveted awards. Enter one or more of the categories below that would reflect your company’s best qualifications and accomplishments. WHY ENTER? • It is a prestigious forum in which to be recognized by your peers • Offers tremendous opportunities to promote your achievement through marketing initiatives • Social media exposure via Facebook, Twitter and Instagram • Review in Canadian Jeweller Magazine • Award solidifies your position in the industry CATEGORIES ❯ Retail Brand of the Year ❯ Best Canadian Diamond Design ❯ Industry Innovation of the Year ❯ Jewellery Manufacturer of the Year ❯ Best Coloured Gemstone Design ❯ Best Platinum Design ❯ Outstanding Canadian Enterprise of the Year ❯ Outstanding International Enterprise of the Year ❯ Retailer of the Year ❯ eSupplier of the Year ❯ Young Entrepreneur of the Year (Age 40 and under) TO ENTER, YOU WILL NEED TO SUBMIT: • The completed nomination form found on canadianjeweller.com • A $100 entry fee per nomination • Photographs of the product/product line being nominated • Samples of advertising campaigns, brochures, etc. marketing the product line • Testimonials from at least two Canadian retailers

Enter Your Design Now! Designer's Name:

(As you would like to have it appear if selected)

Company or Student Affiliation:

(As you would like to have it appear if selected)

Address: City: Province: Postal Code: Phone: Fax: Email: Website: Category: Type of Jewellery: Value of Design: DESCRIBE THE PIECE, INCLUDING METAL USED AND KARAT VALUE, GEMSTONE TYPES, WEIGHTS, CUTS AND COLOURS. COMPLEX DESIGNS SHOULD BE ACCOMPANIED BY TECHNICAL DETAILS:

Enclosed is:

❏ MY FINISHED PIECE(S)

❏ MY ENTRY FEE OF $100 (Made out to Rive Gauche Media)

I understand the entry rules and regulations and abide by their terms. Signature: SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Canadian Jeweller Award of Excellence, Rive Gauche Media, 920 Yonge St., Suite 610, Toronto, ON, M4W 3C7 RULES & REGULATIONS • Jewellery must have been designed and made in Canada. • Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must adhere to the criteria set out in each category. • All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for diamonds. • One submission per designer, per category. • Contestant assumes all liability for designs and jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable precautions while the jewellery is in our possession, Canadian Jeweller Magazine cannot be responsible for insuring the jewellery. • We suggest you extend your own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss, theft or damage for the duration of the competition. • In each category, three finalists will be selected. Judges will then choose an overall winner in each category. • Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact a Canadian Jeweller Magazine representative at 416 203-7900 x 6102. • Winning entries and all information provided about the entries may be used for promotional purposes. Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the designs, as well as press releases will also be used for this purpose.

• Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, creativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship. Consideration will also be given to marketability. • Contestants agree to hold Canadian Jeweller Magazine, Rive Gauche Media, and its employees and representatives, etc., harmless from any and all claims, litigation and other legal proceedings. JUDGING Judging will take place in October 2019 by a prestigious panel of judges made up of Canadian jewellery retailers, designers, and members of Canadian Jeweller Magazine’s Editorial Board. The judging process is confidential and the judges’ decision is final. PROMOTION Winners will be published in an issue of Canadian Jeweller Magazine and agree to their name being used in press releases, magazine articles, social media initiatives and on the Canadian Jeweller Magazine website. Once the results are formally announced, winners are free to self-promote their achievement.

Timeless Last Word

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

Founded in 1996 by Madame Simone Bedat, a Swiss industry veteran who has worked a lifetime for some of the most prestigious names in the world of timekeeping and luxury, Bedat & Co counts itself unique, as it is a rarity in the world of watches. This luxury timekeeping brand was founded by a woman for women and this beautifully feminine piece is carefully crafted to offer timeless elegance for women of all ages and style. It’s a collision of simple and chic style (retailed for $810,000; 18K Solid White Gold, 4.220 ct diamonds, MOP dial, 18K white gold bracelet w/ 38 diamonds. Total carat wt is 10.782)

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Mirage Creations Inc. 221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4 Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677 www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com

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