Canadian Jeweller Magazine - November 2013 by Canadian Jeweller Magazine

MAGAZINE

NOVEMBER 2013 The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Holiday Gift Guide 2013 057.

Jaw-dropping jewellery for the holiday season 038. Cementing a Legacy EXCLUSIVE interview

with Carl F. Bucherer’s Sascha Moeri 070. Dazzling

Displays How to get your store ready for the holidays 054. En Français

Expo Prestige brille à Montréal SAM MESSIHA

THE RELATIONSHIP BUILDER

SCAN ME TO GO TO OUR WEBSITE

GOING ABOVE AND BEYOND FOR CLIENTS AT GEM BIJOU 040.

The Official Magazine of the Canadian Jewellery Tradeshows

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Mag.

NOVEMBER 2013 / VOL. 134 / NO. 08

Olivier Felicio

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com

Irina Lytchak

Managing Editor / irina@canadianjeweller.com

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Editorial Intern / intern2@gorgmgo.com Kavita Sabharwal lucy holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Editorial Intern / intern@gorgmgo.com Oksana Berda

jewellery business at a young age, working in luxury retail stores, and then graduating from the Gemological Institute of America with a degree in diamond grading. She now works with her family at Gemcorp International, producing quality crafted pieces of finished jewellery.

Carol besler Consulting Editor Malcolm Brown Art Director / mbrown@thergmgroup.net Paul aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Booth

Production Manager / production@rivegauchemedia.com

Ashanté Production Intern / intern.production@thergmgroup.net scott Jordan ArtWright Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Elena Viltovskaia Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com CONTRIBUTORS Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com Lorne Bridgman, Janine Druery, Véronique Dubé, Sarah B. Hood, Larry B. Johnson, Wayne Karl, Charles Lewton-Brain, Lamont, James S. Porte, Kuldip Rupra, Marielle Torrefranca, Todd Wasylyshyn Melanie seth Controller & OperationsJohn | finance@rivegauchemedia.com sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos SALES Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com

CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE EDITORIAL BOARD

Associate Publisher

Lucy Holden

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Haigo Derian L’ORO Jewellery Gino DeVuono Movado Group of Canada Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada

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email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners,Published 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1 by The RGM Group. Published Rive Gauche Media ii inc. Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product by Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising arethe those of the does advertiser and not the publisher. Thecontents publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. publisher not assume any of responsibility for the of any advertisement and any and all fault made of thein publisher and in such an event limit ofand thenot publisher’s liability the shallpublisher not exceed amount the publisher’s charge forinsuch advertising. representations or warranties such advertising are those of thethe advertiser of the publisher. is notthe liable to anyofadvertiser for any misprints advertising not No portion of this publication may the fault of the publisherbe andreproduced, in such an event of the publisher’s liabilitywritten shall not exceed theof amount of the publisher’s for such advertising. No portion of this publication in allthe or limit in part, without the express permission the publisher. Canadiancharge Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration may be reproduced, in allunder or part, the conditions: express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited foror editorial consideration thewithout following all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written textsubmissions in electronic hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jewelunder the following conditions: for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text indisc, electronic hard copy format) may bethe used by canadian Jeweller ler and all itsmaterial affiliatessubmitted for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, etc.) or without the consent of, or payment of compensation to, the party providing such and their affiliates for editorial purposes any media (whether to printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent items of, or the payment of compensation to, theStreet party providing material. Pleaseindirect submissions the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor West, Ste.such 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8. material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

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CONTENTS.01 / VOL. 134 / NO. 08 CJMag.Departments 14

EDITOR’S NOTE

CONTRIBUTORS

18 26

PRODUCT SHOWCASE

NEW GENERATION Taking the reins at TimeRevolution.com, Arman's Jewellers, Ultimate 24K Gold Company and Davidson’s Jewellers BY SARAH B. HOOD

SHOWCASE/MARKETPLACE

STAR WATCH There are so many red carpet events in the world of celebrity – and so many opportunities to awe us with amazing jewellery. BY IRINA LYTCHAK

LAST WORD A stately sparkler BY IRINA LYTCHAK

28 FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events 34

CJ GALLERY Canadian designers on display at The Suite; Davidoff brings luxury into Canada

CJ INTERVIEW With CEO Sascha Moeri at the helm, prestigious watchmaker Carl F. Bucherer marks its 125th anniversary and anticipates a bright future. BY IRINA LYTCHAK

48 FAMILY VALUES A focus on the family – and the extended “customer” family – is how the Camgozlu brothers run Mary Jewellery & Lapidary. BY WAYNE KARL

CJ EN FRANÇAIS 51

LES NOUVELLES

EXPO PRESTIGE BRILLE À MONTRÉAL PAR VÉRONIQUE DUBÉ

Next issue cover spotlight: House of Heinrichs

67 48

INDEX TO ADVERTISERS

STYLE COUNCIL Look cool. Stay warm.

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

This issue cover photographed by Lorne Bridgman

Dare to be Canadian

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CONTENTS.02 / VOL. 134 / NO. 08 CJMag.Features+Columns 40 46 ON THE COVER HEALTHY RELATIONSHIPS Sam Messiha of Gem Bijou has carved out a name for himself in a highly competitive industry. He’s done so by relationship-building – and espousing the tenets of first-rate customer service. BY JANINE DRUERY

JVC REPORT The jewellery industry must look at new ways of protecting employees and merchandise. BY JOHN LAMONT

RETAIL FOCUS On behalf of the jewellery industry, I’d like to come clean with the truth about diamonds… BY TODD WASYLYSHYN

40 HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE 2013 Whether you want to stock up on seasonal sparkle, require some unique pieces for your displays, or just need some great gift ideas, you’ll love our guide to everything swoon-worthy for the holiday season. BY JANINE DRUERY AND IRINA LYTCHAK

70 ON DISPLAY 68 Simple strategies to get 57

CANADIAN JEWELLER THROUGH THE AGES With Canadian Jeweller Magazine's 135th anniversary on the horizon, we take a look back at the magazine over the years. In this issue, we examine the 1950s and the post-war fashion resurgence. BY IRINA LYTCHAK & MARIELLE TORREFRANCA

VICENZAORO AND ABOUT J: BELLISSIMO At this year’s Fall 2013 installment of About J and VicenzaOro, visitors were awed and inspired by the splendid jewellery offerings. BY IRINA LYTCHAK

STRAPS TO WATCH While most people still opt for traditional leather or metal straps, there are more and more customers seeking out the unconventional. What retailers need to know… BY SARAH B. HOOD

84 76

MERRY MARKETING Employing new marketing strategies during the holidays can energize your business, ignite store sales – and make selling jewellery fun again. BY JOHN S. PORTE

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

your showcase displays ready for the holidays. BY LARRY B. JOHNSON

FROM THE BENCH By following some simple soldering tricks, you can speed things up in your workshop. BY CHARLES LEWTON-BRAIN

KEEPING TIME Water-resistant watches can be significantly affected by a run-of-themill battery change. BY KULDIP RUPRA

HOLIDAY SHOW AND SELL With Stuller’s new Mountings 2014-2015 catalogue, you have everything you need for holiday engagements right at your fingertips. As you’ve requested, many of these styles are now available with smaller center stones — up to one carat. And for the perfect complement to any mounting, look no further than our new Diamonds and Gemstones 2014 catalogue. That’s endless options from the one source you can rely on. Call 800-877-7777 or visit stuller.com/bridalsolutions.

editor's note

Setting the tone for a spectacular season IRINA LYTCHAK MANAGING EDITOR

usually is the busiest period for many jewellers, I want to address several topics in this issue that are critical to your business. That’s why you’ll find James S. Porte’s “Merry Marketing” on page 84 extra useful. It’s an inspection of marketing strategies that can be specifically employed just for the holidays. In “Dazzling Holiday Displays” on page 70, Larry B. Johnson provides you with some of the top tips and tricks when it comes to making the most out of your store’s displays for this time of year. You may decide to add some pizzazz through new lighting or some sparkle with new cleaning strategies for your display showcases. In the end, whatever you choose will depend on your store and the preferences of your clientele. I sat down with Carl F. Bucherer’s Sascha Moeri for his take on what it’s like to run one of the most prestigious watch brands in the world in “Cementing A Legacy” on page 38. Moeri talks about his role with the company, the rich history of the Swiss watch brand, and offers up some wise words concerning fulfilling your destiny in life, whatever that may be. As a holiday bonus, this issue’s Style Council section – playfully called “Look Cool. Stay Warm.” – is all about helping your consumers stay stylish and warm with a wardrobe that perfectly matches some of the hottest jewellery pieces of the season. At last, according to Deloitte’s 2013 Holiday Retail Outlook survey, Canadian retail sales are set to grow by 2 to 2.5 per cent this holiday season. And even though this year has proven to be quite a challenge for many retailers, consumer confidence remains tenacious, with this year’s sales predicted to be 43 per cent stronger than in 2012. I wish each and every one of you a very productive season and look forward to continuing to strengthen our relationship. CJ

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Photograph by Jacqueline Hornyak

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contributors

Captivate. Showcase your favorite designs against the exotic backdrop of ostrich-patterned Vienna™ faux leather. With a rich texture and feel, these eye-catching displays draw attention to any design.

R io Gra nde. Recommended by jewelers since 194 4.

LORNE

BRIDGMAN

Our cover and cover story ("Healthy Relationships" on page 40) were shot by Torontobased photographer, Lorne Bridgman. He is a contributor to such publications as Monocle, Dwell, enRoute and Maisonneuve. When he's not behind the camera, Lorne enjoys life in the Parkdale neighbourhood with his wife Yasmin and two dogs, Neko and D'arcy.

VÉRONIQUE DUBÉ

JAMES S. PORTE

WAYNE

KULDIP

Véronique Dubé is a trilingual freelance copywriter, translator and proofreader, with many years of experience in the jewellery business. In this issue of Canadian Jeweller Magazine, she wrote our French news section ("Les Nouvelles") on page 51 and French Feature ("Expo Prestige Brille a Montreal") on page 54.

James S. Porte can lay claim to several "firsts", including producing the first jewellery marketing edutainment conferences in the U.S., and co-developing the Jewelry Pro II system. The founder of the Porte Marketing Group can now also add writer for Canadian Jeweller Magazine to his list. Read his piece on marketing your store during the holidays on page 84.

Ostrich Vienna™ Necklace Bust 400-627/B16 See our full selection of Vienna™ displays online and in your Gems & Findings and Display & Packaging catalog.

SARAH B. HOOD

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Sarah B. Hood is a Torontobased freelance journalist who explores the culture of fashion, food and urban life in her many books and articles. Her work has been short-listed for the National Magazine Awards and Kenneth R. Wilson Awards. For this issue, Sarah penned our Next Generation feature (page 80) and explored the wonderful world of watchstraps (page 76).

6/5/13 12:46 PM

KARL

Wayne Karl is an awardwinning writer and editor based in Toronto, with experience in business, real estate, sports and sports business. Although Wayne admits his jewellery "collection" is limited, he does profess a real fondness for fine watches. Read his company profile on Mary Jewellery on page 45.

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

RUPRA

Kuldip Rupra is a thirdgeneration watchmaker with more than 40 years of experience. One million-plus watches have been serviced at his company, TimeRevolution. com. We are delighted to welcome him into the fold as a regular columnist for Canadian Jeweller Magazine. Read his inaugural column on page 86.

product showcase

product showcase 2

1. ELLE TIME AND JEWELRY

3. OTTIMO CREATIONS

ELLE Time and Jewelry collections offers a distinguished look that is chic, modern and bold. Like the pages of ELLE magazine, ELLE jewellery evolves from season to season, merging fashion trends and classic designs together to celebrate a woman’s love for personal style. Featured here is the sophisticated elegance of the ELLE “Starpoint” collection.

Introducing the new TW Steel Sahara Force India Pilot Editions. As the “Official Timing Partner” to the Sahara Force India Formula One Team, TW Steel is proud to showcase six new models. These dynamic, new timepieces elegantly reflect the successful TW Steel pilot model DNA. They have bold, stylish, clean looks and incorporate subtle, powerful design accents that marry them to the Sahara Force India brand.

2. ATLANTIC ENGRAVING

New from Atlantic Engraving, the Passion Noir Collection includes a gent’s and ladies matching ring duo. 10k white gold 6mm comfort fit set with 4 x 0.015 crate and a 14k red gold comfort fit set with 4 x 0.10 crate diamond cut on seamless tubing blanks.

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

4. LASHBROOK

Lashbrook is a designer, manufacturer, and distributor of performance and precious metal wedding bands. Lashbrook produces 98 per cent of its pieces in its Draper, Utah facility. For additional company information, please visit lashbrookdesigns.com.

product showcase

1 2

4 3

1. BEST BARGAINS

Inspired by waterfalls, these 14k white gold genuine Multicolour Sapphire earrings contain approximately 3cts of sapphires. Retail value: $1,100. 2. MARY JEWELLERY

Photo Engraving. Capturing memories and wearing them close to your heart. Turn a simple dog tag into a masterpiece. 3. STULLER

Our Signature 74 diamond will add fiery sparkle to any holiday gift. It features a 74-facet cut diamond, scientifically designed to maximize light

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

performance — a difference your customer can see. Exclusively from Stuller, each Signature 74 diamond comes with an OGI Firetrace card that certifies its excellent light performance. For more information visit stuller. com/signature74. 4. LOTUS JEWELLERY

The “Make the Season Pop” holiday gift set from Kameleon Jewelry features a Limited Edition Pendant and Angel JewelPop, the KJP159 Emerald Isle, and the 2013 Christmas Dove Compact all in a beautiful customized gift box ready to put under the tree. Regular retail value: $139; promotional retail price: $89.

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product showcase

4 1

3 4

1. JEWELERS MUTUAL INSURANCE COMPANY

3. GIA

Pearls of Wisdom jewellery care brochure: Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company offers this free brochure featuring tips to help customers keep their jewellery safe and sparkling. Makes a great leave-behind. It’s also downloadable for websites. For more information, visit jewelersmutual.com

GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used at point of sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate customers about how GIA grades the 4Cs and offers direct access to GIA’s online database of GIA reports.

2. AUGENSTERN DIAMONDS

4. NOVA DIAMONDS

Your clients can now be diamonds. Augenstern manufactures diamonds using the carbon from the hair of your clients, or from the hair of their dearest loved ones. An Augenstern Hair Diamond is the perfect product to commemorate a very special moment in life, such as a wedding or the arrival of a new baby. Children can seal their bond within an Augenstern Hair Diamond by combining their hair carbon and offer their parents a unique piece of jewellery.

Nova Diamonds is pleased to offer our new floral open-ended bangle. This classy, curvaceous design features over 6.8 carats of beautiful VS-SI quality diamonds set in 18k white gold. Retail price: $27,600.

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

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star watch

Red Carpet Radiance There are so many red carpet events in the world of celebrity – and so many opportunities to awe us with amazing jewellery. By Irina Lytchak

Luxury to the Max It was a night of glitz and glam for Swiss jewellery house Avakian when unveiling its first Haute Joaillerie exhibition during an opening cocktail reception at Hotel Metropole in Monte Carlo. One of the stunning guests was Slovak fashion model and actress Adriana Karembeu. The beauty stood out from the crowd in an out-of-thisworld Avakian diamond necklace set with blue sapphires and 12cts of pear-shaped emeralds (price upon request).

Greek Goddess Joanna Krupa looked stunning at the “The Real Housewives of Miami” Season 3 Premiere Party in Miami. Wearing an Effy Jewelry “Moderna” 14k Yellow Gold Bangle with Diamonds ($5,995) and a gorgeous Reve by Khushali Kumar collection two-tinted gown, the reality star and model must have caught everyone’s attention on the red carpet.

Floral Queen Milla Jovovich’s ensemble at the 2013 Cannes International Film Festival for the "Blood Ties" movie premiere was a definite head-turner. The beautiful model and talented actress wore a Chanel Couture Spring 2013 gown sequined in a striking flower leaf pattern. She kept it simple with a natural look when it came to her hair, yet added a pair of Swarovski Velour Clip Earrings ($310) for a dramatic finishing effect.

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

for the record

News / Trends / Events CONSUMERS TO BE CAUTIOUS WITH CASH THIS HOLIDAY SEASON

MAISON BIRKS UNVEILS UNIQUE CONCEPT STORES

After announcing a new visual platform, brand identity and logo, Birks has started to unveil a number of its new store locations under the name ‘Maison Birks.’ The innovative retail spaces were designed by visionaries at Sid Lee Architecture and are entirely dedicated to Birks' jewellery collections. The goal of the re-branding was to provide a refreshing and modern experience for customers shopping at a Maison Birks boutique. The Montreal-based jeweller is launching a new advertising campaign that will highlight its prestigious image while staying in line with its Canadian heritage. The campaign will centre on the kaleidoscope, Maison Birks’ new signature theme, designed to show consumers all of the different parts that make up the unique brand. According to Eva Hartling, marketing and communications director for Birks & Mayors, the Maison Birks name “reflects the fact that we are a jewellery brand. We are 135 years old. We have a heritage.” The brand’s logo now includes a diamond shape, representing the company’s expertise in diamonds, and the year Birks was founded. The first of the new boutiques opened in the Mapleview shopping centre in Burlington, Ontario on August 15th, while the official store opening celebrations took place in September. The second store launch followed at the Square of Quartier DIX30 in Brossard, Quebec. Birks is also unveiling 16 new prestige jewellery collections, including bridal collections that feature Canadian diamonds. Hartling says that by the end of 2013, there will be 23 Birks collections available to customers. While there are no dates set on when stores across the country will be updated to reflect the new vision, Hartling says it is possible that even the store’s flagship location at Phillips Square in Montreal may one day carry only in-house designed items. In a separate development, Birks & Mayors has also announced that the company will be officially changing its name to Birks Group Inc. and that its ticker symbol will be changed to BGI.

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Canadians will likely be more cautious with their spending this holiday season, as compared to last. Research firm ShopperTrak predicts a 2.4 per cent rise during the November and December shopping season, compared to a three per cent retail sales increase in 2012. While the numbers may not seem that drastic, this year’s holiday sales growth will be slower than many, says ShopperTrak. This comes after a particularly weak back-to-school shopping season which disappointed retailers. “Although the economy continues to recover slowly, consumers remain cautious about spending and are not ready to splurge,” says ShopperTrak founder Bill Martin. In the U.S., Deloitte’s Retail & Distribution practice anticipates holiday sales to reach between US$963 and $967 billion. This would be a four to 4.5 per cent increase in sales between November and January over the 2012-2013 holiday season (when sales totaled $925 billion). Yet these numbers are only for in-store sales. Deloitte predicts non-store sales, which are comprised of online shopping, catalogue and interactive television purchases, will increase by 12.5 to 13 per cent. “We anticipate non-store sales growth will continue to surpass overall retail sales growth,” says Alison Paul, vice chairman of Deloitte LLP and Retail & Distribution sector leader. Paul says shoppers who use electronic means to research their purchases, such as computers, smartphones, or tablets, help influence in-store sales and trends. Deloitte also predicts sales researched or completed by mobile phones will account for eight per cent of total holiday sales, equaling about US$66 billion worth of purchases. “Consumers using their smartphones are more likely to make a purchase compared with other shoppers in the store,” says Paul. She says retailers are adjusting to consumer shopping trends by offering new services for their customers, such as allowing customers to order a product online and then pick it up in store, or price matching on the spot. While non-store sales are predicted to rise in the coming months, Paul says stores are still a key part of the holiday shopping experience. She says retailers that will have the most success will be the ones that use their physical and digital storefronts to bring together their pricing, promotions, merchandise and inventory management.

JEWELLERY SALES CLIMB FROM 2012

Jewellery sales climbed 2.5 per cent this year, a new report published by Statistics Canada has shown. The report found that jewellery sales totaled $254 million in July 2013, up 2.5 per cent from $248 million in July 2012. However, the jewellery, luggage and leather goods sub-sector hit a slight hitch in July 2013 compared to June 2013. Its earnings for June were $260 million, 2.3 per cent higher than its earnings for July. The sub-sector hit its peak in April 2013, logging earnings of $267.8 million across Canada, after which its earnings began to decline. In contrast, Reuters reports that miscellaneous manufacturing sales jumped 23.9 per cent between June and July of this year, based on the strength of manufacturing sales of jewellery and silverware. Total retail sales across the board have seen an increase in 2013, rising 0.6 per cent this July from the same time last year with gains in eight of the 11 sub-sectors of the retail industry. As of July, nationwide sales are sitting at $40.3 billion – up from $39.1 billion last year. Other industries experiencing an increase are motor vehicles and parts (up 7.7 per cent since July of last year) gasoline stations (up 4.4 per cent); specialty food stores (up 7.4 per cent); and clothing stores (up 4.1 per cent).

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for the record The retail sector has seen earnings steadily rise since July 2009, when profits totaled $34.8 billion. The provinces leading the gains in dollar terms this year are: Ontario, with a growth of 1.5 per cent; Quebec, with an increase of 1.3 per cent; and Newfoundland and Labrador with an increase of 1.3 per cent. Some provinces have seen losses instead: Manitoba’s sales have decreased by 4.1 per cent after three consecutive months of gains, and Saskatchewan has seen a loss of 1.9 per cent.

TARGET EXTENDS ITS RETAIL REACH

U.S.-based retailer Target is expanding into the Canadian market this fall, with 16 new stores set to open in Quebec by the end of October. The Minneapolis, Minnesota-based retailer, which now operates 68 locations across the country, plans to reach 124 by the end of this year. The company has already opened locations in Montreal, Brossard, Laval, Lévis, St-George, St-Jérôme and Trois-Rivières. By October 18th, Target will have opened another nine across the province. Nova Scotia will also welcome the retail giant with three new stores, and four new stores will open in and around Ottawa. Most of the new Target locations will have a licensed Starbucks café, as well as an in-store pharmacy. The majority of the Quebec locations will house Quebec-based Brunet pharmacies, which will start to open in summer 2014. “We look forward to opening our first stores in Quebec and Nova Scotia as we carry out an unprecedented retail expansion covering all 10 provinces across Canada this year,” says Tony Fisher, president of Target Canada. To date, Target has spent $10 million to renovate the Quebec locations vacated by Canadian-based Zellers. However, there have been some wrinkles. There have been fewer sales of groceries, cosmetics, paper and health-care products than expected, and prices have not been at the low level customers expect them to be. The company has stated that it is working to adjust its inventory and staffing to suit the level of demand in each of its locations. In its second quarter for 2013, ending August 3, Target Canada had a deficit of US$169 million on sales of US$275 million, due to high expansion costs. Target Canada spent US$256 million to expand into the Canadian market, driving down Target Corp.’s stock price. A recent Forum Research survey of 1,500 Canadians showed 27 per cent were “very satisfied” with their shopping experience at Target; in April that figure was at 34 per cent. This is compared to 62 per cent of customers who said they were very satisfied with Costco, and 40 per cent who said they were very satisfied with the Hudson’s Bay Company.

WELL-HEELED CANADIANS OPTIMISTIC ABOUT ECONOMY

Prosperous Canadians are starting to be optimistic about Canada’s economic future for the first time in several years. According to a survey by BMO Harris Private Banking, more than 50 per cent of affluent Canadians believe they are in a better financial situation now than they were before the economic downturn of September 2008. And that should translate into more spending this holiday season. The study found that affluent Canadians have been returning to their pre-recession spending habits. Seventy-five per cent of high net-worth Canadians are spending the same amount or more on clothing and accessories, such as jewellery, than they were before the 2008 recession. They are also indulging in entertainment and leisure activities, travel, club memberships and hobbies. “Increased spending shows confidence in the economy and helps spur economic activity,” says Alex Dousmanis-Curtis, senior VP and head of BMO Harris Private Banking. “We’re delighted

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for the record to see such a high percentage of high-net worth Canadians opening up their wallets.” To that end, a quarter of affluent consumers plan to give jewellery as a gift this holiday season. According to the 2013 Holiday Forecast Study from the Survey of Affluence and Wealth in America, 25 per cent of the consumers polled planned to give jewellery as a gift, while 49 per cent said they would purchase clothing and apparel. “Overall, retailers are optimistic for the 2013 holiday season, hoping political debates over government spending and the debt ceiling do not erase any economic progress we’ve already made,” says National Retail Federation president and CEO Matthew Shay. A recent U.S. study carried out by the American Affluence Research Center (AARC) also indicates more wealthy households will be purchasing gifts this holiday season – an increase of 2.2 per cent. The study predicts these households will spend approximately US$27.8 billion, which accounts for almost half of holiday spending in the U.S. The AARC surveyed the wealthiest 10 per cent of U.S. households. The study found that 97 per cent of these households plan to purchase gifts this year, compared to 91 per cent in 2012. Seven per cent of those polled say they plan to increase their holiday spending this year.

TIFFANY & CO. MAKES BIG CHANGES

Tiffany & Co. has been shaking things up of late. In the company’s most recent development, Anisa Kamadoli Costa has been selected as the new board chair of The Tiffany & Co. Foundation – the jewellery brand’s grant-making institution established in 2000. Costa will continue her role as president of the foundation and as vice president for global sustainability and corporate responsibility at Tiffany & Co. Things are also shifting at Tiffany’s head office. Frederic Cumenal, former president and CEO of LVMH Group’s Moet & Chandon champagne company, has been named the new president of Tiffany & Co. Cumenal was previously executive vice S |TB HU EYSW LM ETLE YS HA president of the luxury YSS T ET T S A MSE HE jewellery brand under H W T former president James E. Quinn, who retired in 2012. JEWELLERY Tiffany & Co. has JEWELLERY CHAINS BRACELETS EARRINGS made some big changes CHAINS BRACELETS EARRINGS PENDANTS RINGSB ANGLES PENDANTS RINGS BANGLES in Toronto as well. The LOCKETS CUBICS... LOCKETS CUBICS... jeweller moved across Ryry STAINLESS CHARMS the street from its previous DISPLAYS BODY JEWELLERY location on Bloor DISPLAYS Street into a store that took two-and-a-half years to design. Having recently celebrated its 175th TOLL FREE 1•800•661•4460

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birthday, Tiffany wants this new location to pay homage to, and respect, its legacy, while simultaneously moving the company forward. By the end of the year, Tiffany’s hopes to have a total of three stores in Toronto, two in Vancouver, and one each in Calgary, Edmonton and Montreal.

NEW LOCATION FOR LOCAL JEWELLERY STORE French’s Jewellery, a staple of Wetaskiwin, Alberta for 101 years, had a grand reopening of its new location on September 24. The new location is larger than the old store and allows the jeweller to have dedicated sections for watches, fine jewellery, Canadian pieces and bags and purses. “We’ve had a lot of really good reaction,” says owner Laurelle Giesbrecht. “We’ve been working on this a long time. It’s been just a dream and a wish-list for a long time.” The new location employs a functional historic touch in its décor, using display cases from the 1910s that have been restored to their original condition. Some aspects of the architecture of the store have also been preserved, such as rounded front windows and a tin ceiling. The new space also allows Giesbrecht to have separate areas for guest services like consultations, packaging, shipping and receiving and watch repair. She says a team of friends and family helped the store move locations after hours, noting, “this doesn’t happen overnight and it doesn’t happen without a lot of help. I’m very happy with how it’s turned out.” CJ

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cj gallery

Clockwise from top left: Fashions at the suite; Jewellery by Jon De Porter; Jewellery by Mizdragonfly; Pieces by I’Moniq; A variety of jewellery on display; Visitors viewing fashions at the event

Canadian designers on display at the suite IN AN EFFORT TO HELP CELEBS look their shining best on the red

carpet, Kelly Claman Company and Stylist Box hosted a style suite in downtown Toronto during the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF). Held in partnership with the Canadian Foundation for AIDS Research (CANFAR) and Chloe, the group invited media to a pre-TIFF soiree on September 4th where they could view the various jewellery and clothing collections.

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Stylists were on hand to give advice; makeovers were offered; and swanky clothing pieces filled the racks. A variety of jewellery and accessories from talented Canadian designers were also on display, including pieces from Jon de Porter Jewellery, Monikque, Mizdragonfly, Arctic Ice, I’Moniq, and Laborde Designs. Jewellery from celebrity favourite Kara Ross was also on hand, ready to be borrowed. CJ

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Left to right: Sean Polan, partner at Sothil; Véronique Dubé, writer for Canadian Jeweller Magazine; Alexandre Despatie, TV host; Christian Schaffner, Davidoff CEO; John Burns, Davidoff Commercial Director; Chris Iliopoulos, partner at Sothil; The Davidoff event at Hotel Le Crystal; Davidoff goods on display.

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Canada and make the brand resonate as one of the ultimate touchstones for exclusivity. During the event, guests had the opportunity to meet the CEO of Davidoff Switzerland, Mr. Christian Schaffner, and the Commercial Director, Mr. John Burns. Several celebrity guests were also on hand, including three-time world diving champion Alexandre Despatie and City Montreal television host, Joanne Vrakas. CJ

introduction of its luxury goods division to the Canadian market. The event took place at the ultra-posh Hotel Le Crystal in Montreal. Founded in 1980, The Zino Davidoff Group is a Swiss-based family business that manufactures exclusive timepieces, writing instruments and leather accessories, as well as prestigious fragrances, eyewear, cognac and coffee. The company aims to expand its product range in

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Cementing A Legacy With CEO Sascha Moeri at the helm, prestigious watchmaker Carl F. Bucherer marks its 125th anniversary and anticipates a bright future. By Irina Lytchak

SINCE SASCHA MOERI JOINED CARL F. BUCHERER (CFB) as CEO in

2010, the illustrious watch brand has experienced an exponential amount of growth. This year, as CFB commemorates its 125th anniversary, Moeri has plenty of reasons to celebrate. “Things have changed dramatically but in a good way,” says Moeri, who has made changes in the areas of product, global distribution and marketing. “When I started, I told my team my vision is to work in 30 markets and sell 20,000 watches in five to 10 years, and now we did it in three. So the question is, “What is next?” and that is to strengthen and build our brand, not only focusing on profitability but on sustainability and long-term growth.” Moeri recalls that when he first started with the brand, CFB was selling about 6,000 watches per year; today, that number has skyrocketed to 20,000.

MARKING A MILESTONE

Based in Lucerne, Switzerland, CFB has been owned by the Bucherer family from the very start. In 1888, Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened his first store selling diamonds, jewellery and watches. By 1919, the brand began releasing its own creations, specifically designed for women. To this day, CFB is a family business, owned by Carl’s grandson. “I always talk about the Bucherer legacy because I think it’s the only Swiss brand with that kind of pedigree today,” says Moeri. “You have a lot of very strong brands, which I admire very much but here, it’s still the same family who started the business 125 years ago and that’s very unique.” As for celebrating over a century and a quarter in the industry, Moeri says that this is a perfect opportunity for the world to really see the potential of CFB. “This anniversary is a very good tool to show to the whole world what this brand has done in the last 125 years,” he says. To mark the anniversary (the actual date was July 17), the team behind CFB set out on a global journey with the newly created jubilee

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book, 125 Years’ Swiss History of Time. CFB took the opportunity to present its new publication to friends and partners of the brand during several stops around the globe in cities like New York, Dubai, Madrid, Zurich, Hong Kong, Macau, Beijing and Mumbai. One of the stops included a visit to the Classic Creations watch and jewellery store in Toronto where CFB awarded the celebrated book to entrepreneur, media and sports executive, and politician, Paul Godfrey.

FULFILLING A DESTINY

It’s fair to say that Moeri has had a passion for the watch industry right from the start. Born and raised in the city of Biel, Switzerland, which is right at the heart of Swiss watch making, Moeri grew up surrounded by a culture that highlighted the importance of the craftsmanship that goes into creating quality timepieces. “It’s a lovely industry – you can think of new products, you can have ideas, you can create, you can design, you can engineer, you can develop and then you have a product,” he says. “It’s the emotional value of this industry that makes it so unique.” One of Moeri’s first jobs included working at Swatch, which set the future CEO up for a flourishing, 20-year career in the business. But Moeri says that his enthusiasm for the industry makes it hard to call his role at CFB a “job.” “It’s not actually a job, it’s really a hobby,” he explains. “It’s amazing that at the very end, somebody goes in the store and pays for a product that came from an idea.” For an individual who travels six months per year and whose average work day includes overseeing the development of new marketing strategies, production processes and designs, as well as managing an entire team, it is refreshing that Moeri finds so much joy in what he does. “The Swiss watch industry is so important to our country,” he says. “For me, it’s an honour and a privilege to be a part of it.” CJ

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Healthy Relationships

While Sam Messiha comes from a long line of jewellers, the young owner of Gem Bijou has carved out a name for himself in a highly competitive industry. He’s done so by relationship-building – and espousing the tenets of first-rate customer service. By Janine Druery

IN RETAIL, IT IS OFTEN SAID:

“If you don’t take care of your customers, someone else will.” While Sameh (Sam) Messiha didn’t invent that saying, the 36-year-old owner of Gem Bijou definitely lives and breathes it. In a world where everyone talks about “customer service,” but many only give lip service to it, Messiha knows the road to success lies in taking good care of clients. “Our philosophy of extreme customer service is pervasive throughout our company,” says Messiha. “Every member of Gem Bijou is a part of delivering a superior experience. Whether in person, or over the telephone, every person is treated with professionalism, integrity and care.” Gem Bijou is located downtown in the Simcoe Place office complex on Front Street, in Toronto’s underground path. It’s an attractive store with great brands. However, there are a lot of attractive jewellery stores in town with great brands. Messiha knows this, but he also knows that none of it means anything without customers. “This might sound like a cliché but it is true,” says Messiha. “The key to success is great customer service, customer trust and fair pricing. If you provide customers with those three things, they will come.”

JEWELLERY ANCESTRY

Messiha knows of what he speaks. He comes from a long line of jewellers, stretching back to his grandfather, Samy Messiha, who had a watch and jewellery store in Alexandria, Egypt where Messiha was born. His father and uncle eventually took over the business and became distributors for Orient Watches. Things changed in 1987 when Messiha was 10 years old and the family moved to Canada. His father and uncle started up one location in Toronto called Sam’s Watches, and from there things took off. His extended family – parents, brother, aunts, uncles and cousins – now own and operate seven independent retail locations in the GTA.

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This means that pretty much everyone in his family, in one capacity or another, is involved in the jewellery business. “We’re known as the Sam family,” laughs Messiha as he talks about his family lineage – and his namesake. “I’m Sameh, my brother is Sami, my dad is Sany and my grandfather was Samy – the original ‘Sam,’ “My grandfather was a man who everyone respected – and not only people in the family,” says Messiha. We kept the name out of respect for him – that’s why we carried that name over.” And it was his grandfather’s good name and business legacy that Messiha wants to perpetuate. “I think with any good jewellery business, and the secret of our business, is honesty,” he says. “If people feel you are being dishonest, you are never going to get repeat customers.”

OPENING UP SHOP

Messiha didn’t start out wanting to become a jeweller, although he knew the opportunity was there. “My father never threw the business in our faces and said, ‘This is what you have to do,’” he says. “It has always been left as an option.” Before he became a jeweller he went to university to study Economics and then joined the Canadian Forces for a few years. Yet, he often helped out in his father’s business and ended up really enjoying it. “At that time I helped introduce my parents to a few luxury brands,” recalls Messiha. “From those experiences I developed a love for the business. At that point I knew it was what I wanted to do.” Messiha stayed in his father’s business until an opportunity came up to open a store at Toronto’s TD Centre office complex. He opened up as Prime Time Watchery in November 2002. “It was the first experience for me to be managing a store,” says Messiha. “I was 26 at the time, so it was a big responsibility, and there was a lot

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / 足C 足足 A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

“The key to success is great customer service, customer trust and fair pricing. If you provide customers with those three things, they will come.” for me to do in terms of attracting customers. It had its challenges.” However, with some blood, sweat – and his intense desire to please his clients – the store became a success. He ran the store for 10 years until moving locations to Simcoe Place in December 2012. He changed the name to Gem Bijou (“Gem” for gemstones and “Bijou” for jewel in French). “Together it means ‘I like jewellery’ in French,” Messiha says, and it is a play on words inspired by his wife, Joscelyne, who is a French teacher. His store carries jewellery brands such as Elle, Canadian Ice, Swarovski, Simon G., Zeghani and Gabriel & Co., and has a large assortment of timepieces, including Oris, Raymond Weil, Movado, Gucci, Bulova and Michael Kors. Gem Bijou also offers custom design, jewellery repair services and watch servicing. Messiha says he’s happy he chose to get into the jewellery business in the long run, and would encourage other young people to get involved. “The industry needs more fresh ideas,” he says. “A young entrepreneur will introduce social media as a new marketing avenue. A young entrepreneur will embrace the new branding craze.”

LOCATION CONSIDERATIONS

While Gem Bijou is located near Toronto’s high-end hotels, a multitude of office buildings and many tourist attractions, it’s not in a traditional location. It’s not in a mall; it’s not in a plaza; it’s not visible from the street. So how does Messiha make it work so well? “We get steady traffic under Simcoe Place, so primarily it’s the same traffic, the same people everyday,” says Messiha, who runs the shop with four staff (and occasional help from his mother Marie, who has her own store). “So we’ve always got to make sure we give them excellent customer service so they come back. Because, here, word of mouth travels very, very quickly.” In addition to traffic in the building – people visiting other businesses, people who work in the area, or those coming to grab a bite in the nearby food court, Messiha has a constant stream of people visiting the Metropolitan Toronto Convention Centre across the street. And, of course, he has clientele from his previous location. “Jewellery is one of those industries where yes, you are going to have

customers who shop for discounts, but primarily your good customers are the ones who have a good experience with you and end up being loyal to you,” he says. Despite the mid- to high-level of his knowledgeable and savvy customer demographic, the customers who come to his store get something more than good service and a good price. “We give the experience of a mom and pop type of shop,” says Messiha. “That sets us apart, especially in this area here – just being able to spend time with the customer.” He says the mind-set at Gem Bijou is to create memories and lasting relationships with clients. “Our clients allow us to help them enrich their own personal relationships by commemorating important events or simply expressing their love and admiration,” he says. “We become a part of the special occasions in their lives, and we do all we can to help make those moments wonderful. The beautiful products we carry are the means we use in building lasting bonds with our community.”

WHAT’S NEXT?

While Messiha is currently focused on getting Gem Bijou off the ground and well established, he says he would someday love to be able to expand it into a multi-location business. And he also dreams of uniting all of the stores run by family members and turning them all into one big, family-run business. “I think it would be great if we could combine and give ourselves more buying power and make us a lot stronger as a brand,” he says. For now, Messiha is content to spend long hours at family dinners that are dominated with business discussions. “It’s great because it allows us to share our experience together,” he says. “We usually share stories about different experiences with customers, new product releases and possible security issues.” He also thinks about one day passing the business on to the next generation. While he doesn’t currently have children, he can envision a time when he might hand over the keys to his offspring. Perhaps a young Sam? Or Samuel? Or Samantha? At that suggestion, Sam Messiha just chuckles. CJ

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

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“Our clients allow us to help them enrich their own personal relationships by commemorating important events or simply expressing their love and admiration.”

AT A GLANCE: Name: Gem Bijou Owner: Sam Messiha Location: Simcoe Place (200 Front Street), Toronto Store Size: 1,000 square feet Staff: Four (and occasional help from mom) Known For: Exceptional customer service Brands: Bulova, Canadian Ice, Elle, Movado, Simon G., Swarovski and others Cool Factor: Most of his family members are jewellers (many of them named “Sam”)

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

jvc report

PROTECTION = PROGRESS

The jewellery industry must always look at new and more advanced ways of protecting employees and merchandise. By John Lamont

GEORGE BERNARD SHAW ONCE SAID:

“Progress is impossible without change, and those who can not change their minds can not change anything.” This certainly rings true in all aspects of the jewellery business, including loss prevention (LP). I was recently sitting with my daughter, who is a supervisor for a large grocery chain. She was telling me of her frustration with the company’s acceptance of, and lack of response to, minor employee theft. I explained that, at times, a company’s focus can be directed only to sales, without considering that internal theft will directly affect a company’s bottom line. I related to her a true story of a retail jewellery store that had hired a new manager who produced some very good sales numbers. The store was kept in excellent condition – except for the back room and the paperwork. A subsequent investigation by the jewellery company’s LP department revealed a shrinkage of $250,000 over a one-year period and a store culture where staff, seeing obvious thefts by the manager, started helping themselves to merchandise. Retail industry experts say 10 per cent of employees will never steal from their employers, 10 per cent will steal inventory/ time/supplies at any opportunity, and 80 per cent are influenced by policies, procedures and supervision. These numbers are apocryphal and have no hard data source that can be found. Most experts use them to illustrate the fact that the vast majority of employees can be tempted to steal when a company does not have workable policies or adequate supervision and disciplinary

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action for the violation of policies. The doors of opportunity are left wide open. All deviant behaviour requires is motivation to steal, access and opportunity. If there is no disciplinary action for this type of behaviour, policies and procedures fly out the window. It has always been my position that every day a jewellery business is open, an opportunity thief will enter that business (and this may include employees). It is important for loss prevention to be a top consideration when it comes to internal and external theft. Just as policy, procedures and supervision can help deter internal theft, some simple and fairly inexpensive measures can assist in deterring external theft – something as simple as the type of sealant that is used on glass showcases. Most glass sealants consist of silicone that can be easily cut with a knife. Several years ago, a retail jeweller in Markham, Ontario had a large group of women and two men come into their store. The women distracted the staff at the rear of the store and the men cut the silicone on the glass, lifted the top glass piece and removed all of the store’s diamond solitaires. The store later replaced the silicone with a special, clear sealant that can’t be penetrated with a knife. This fix costs only a few hundred dollars, yet it can protect hundreds of thousands of dollars of diamonds. The same holds true when it comes to armed robberies. Many experts feel armed robberies are almost impossible to prevent, yet there are measures that can be taken to help protect staff and product. Staff must be trained on

how to act during a robbery (e.g., don’t resist the robbers; follow their instructions; don’t make any sudden moves). Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company and JVC have good training material on these subjects. The type of glass used in a diamond showcase can also be a deterrent to robberies. A couple walked into a jewellery store in Ottawa and attempted to smash a diamond case with a small hammer. However, the store had installed a security film to the already tempered glass and the thieves could not break it. In addition, a good store camera system can up your security. There is better security equipment coming on the market all the time and costs are coming down. Your insurance company, the police and JVC can all direct you to the particular equipment you’re looking for. The jewellery industry must always look at new ways of protecting employees and product. This is progress. I’ve heard it said many times: “I don’t need to invest in new equipment or put new policies in place. Those types of things don’t happen in my community and it has never happened to me.” To those people, I can only say, “Good luck.” CJ

John Lamont is the Director of Loss Prevention for Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), which provides loss prevention to the jewellery and watch industry. If anyone knows his stuff it’s John: he spent 20 years with the Toronto Police Service (investigating many armed robberies during his last six years with the Toronto Holdup Squad) and was a Loss Prevention Manager at Peoples Jewellers for 25 years.

a gem of an event in the perfect setting

Join Jewellers Vigilance Canada at our annual ball:

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2013 Arcadian Court, 401 Bay Street #8, Toronto

• Cocktails and silent auction starting at 6:30pm

• Dinner and dancing at 8:00pm

TICKETS ARE $375.00 PER PERSON + HST | BLACK TIE EVENT WITH VALET PARKING

For more information call 416.368.4840 or 800.636.9536, or email info@jewellersvigilance.ca Jewellers Vigilance Canada | An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry. C R I M E P R E V E N T I O N • R E S O U R C E P R OT E C T I O N • S A F E T Y AWA R E N E S S

company profile

family values

A focus on the family – and the extended “customer” family – is how the Camgozlu brothers run Mary Jewellery & Lapidary. By Wayne Karl

WHEN APEL CAMGOZLU DESCRIBES HIS COMPANY, Mary Jewellery &

Lapidary Co. Ltd., a small, family-owned and operated wholesaler in Toronto, his modesty shines through. That’s just the unassuming nature of Apel and the rest of the Camgozlu family who run Mary Jewellery & Lapidary – they’d rather focus on others, namely their customers. Indeed, providing excellent customer service is precisely how the company strives to distinguish itself. You’d expect nothing less for an outfit started by three brothers – Ohannes, Paravon and Garabet (Apel’s father) – who left Istanbul, Turkey and set out for Canada to build on the jewellery experience they gained from their father. In 1982, they launched Mary Jewellery & Lapidary in honour of their late mother, Mary. To this day, a focus on family values and customer service, true to Mary’s honour, is the cornerstone of the company. To whit, of the 12 full-time employees, 10 are family members. And though they don’t use the titles in practice, Ohannes serves as chief executive officer, Paravon as chief operating officer, and Garabet as chief financial officer. Apel, the de facto general manager of the business, “joined” the business as a child, hanging out in the shop when he was as young as four years old. “I would come in every Saturday, and once I was in high school I would come in every Friday and Saturday to help out," says Apel. "As the years went by, it became full time.”

STARTING IN CANADA

Simplicity and strong family values that date back to the very beginning have stood them well over time. The three Camgozlu brothers started in Canada by purchasing a small lapidary shop in Toronto, and operating that for a short period before expanding into manufacturing. With mixed results in that business, the Camgozlus further branched out into retail, with two successful shops on Yonge Street in the downtown area, as well as a manufacturing and repair facility. When the

building in which their company was located was set for redevelopment, it was time to move on. Mary Jewellery & Lapidary moved to its current Queen Street location, scaling back on the repair aspect of the business and focusing more on wholesaling. “Customers started asking for more products, so we started bringing in more lines and selling more and more jewellery,” says Apel. “It got so busy we closed our retail locations and focused on the wholesale part of the business.” Today, the company’s primary business is wholesaling to other retailers, mostly the mom and pop shops that comprise what Apel estimates to be 60 to 70 per cent of the market in Canada. For Mary Jewellery & Lapidary, working with independent stores, as opposed to large chains, is more than just befitting a family-run company – it affords simplicity of business. “We get paid on time," says Apel. "Big companies often ask for terms that are more difficult for smaller jewellers to handle. It’s not for us.” Even though the company operates from a single location in Toronto, it sells direct throughout Canada, without the use of local sales reps in regional markets.

MARKET CHALLENGES

As with many companies in an industry that largely counts on consumers’ disposable income, Mary Jewellery & Lapidary has seen its challenges presented by the soft economy over the last few years. “We have a good product line and we’re constantly busy, but in general it’s slow,” Apel says. “When I speak to my retail clients, they’re not too happy. There’s general concern about the economy, from east coast to west coast.” The rising price of gold in recent years has had a negative impact on business, in terms of rising raw materials costs. “As a jeweller, we don’t prefer the price of gold to be high at all,”

Top: Tungsten Spinning Band ($375)

NOVEMBER 2013 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

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company profile

“Customer service should be, by far, the most important thing for any company. If you can’t keep your customers happy, who are you going to sell to?” says Apel. “The lower the price of gold, the more sales we make. With gold being as high as it is, it really doesn’t help us at all.” The result is higher, unsold inventory. Since most jewellery is either a gift or a personal buy, Apel says, sales can be significantly affected by rising costs. “When people are used to paying $150 to $200 for a baptism gift, for example, and getting something nice and half decent," he says. "Now, that $150 to $200 is costing the retailer that much, so when he flips it to the consumer, it ends up being $400 to $500. They just go a different route – they’re not going to spend that for a gift.” If it’s a personal purchase, on the other hand, people are more likely to indulge and spend the larger amount. To his point, Apel cites wedding bands as a long-time staple at Mary Jewellery & Lapidary. “These are personal buys, and for wedding bands, no matter what, people are willing to spend,” he says.

TRENDS VS CLASSICS

Another challenge to the business is being able to keep up with everchanging trends. “Everybody wants to know what’s hot, or what’s going to be hot, before it’s actually hot,” says Apel. “Yet trends in the jewellery industry, like fashion, change so often and so quickly that it’s really hard to keep up. You can’t predict the market, unfortunately.” Rather than trying to hit such a moving target, Mary Jewellery & Lapidary takes a steadfast approach to “take it as it comes, take it as it

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goes,” and to delivering, quickly and consistently, on clients’ demands. Apel recalls two particular trends from the past five years that quickly came and went. Circular pendants, “because Oprah wore it once on TV and then everyone had to have one,” and Shamballa bracelets. He says the items that are “hot” now include jewellery pieces made from tungsten, titanium and steel. “That’s all doing really well for us, especially for men, who like the lower cost, durability and low maintenance,” says Apel. Wedding bands and charms remain steady and predictable, he notes. “We have more than 10,000 SKUs, but bands sell the best, mainly because I keep everything in stock. So when a customer from Vancouver or wherever calls and needs a specific band, I have it in stock, I can ship it out right away and they’ll have it the next day.” There’s that customer service element again. It always comes back to that. “Customer service should be, by far, the most important thing for any company,” says Apel. “If you can’t keep your customers happy, who are you going to sell to?” It’s a philosophy the founding Camgozlu brothers and their family live by, and one that would make Mary proud. CJ

Top left: Chinese Dragon symbol in 14k yellow gold ($399); Top right: Capricorn Zodiac in 10k yellow gold ($129)

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Les Nouvelles

PAR VÉRONIQUE DUBÉ

LES BIJOUX NOMINATION MAINTENANT AU CANADA

L’histoire des bijoux Nomination débute en 1987, dans la ville de Sesto Fiorentino, en Toscane. Paolo Gensini voulait créer un bijou qui était abordable et qui pouvait s’adapter à la personnalité et à l’imagination de la personne qui le porterait. L’idée du bracelet composable est ainsi née, entraînant une révolution dans le monde de la bijouterie qui voyait l’acier inoxydable en vedette dans les vitrines. Aujourd’hui, les bijoux Nomination, aussi fabriqués en argent sterling et plaqués d’or rose 18 carats ou d’or jaune 24 carats, se déclinent en une dizaine de collections. On offre également des pièces serties de pierres semi-précieuses et de zircons cubiques. En ce qui concerne le marketing, on a pensé à tout; des présentoirs à l’emballage, en passant par l’aspect visuel en magasin ainsi qu’aux affiches, tout est orchestré avec goût et efficacité. Distribués au Canada par Sothil, les bijoux Nomination sont un vent de fraîcheur, présentant une touche d’originalité et de modernité bien équilibrée.

MYEL, DES CRÉATIONS UNIQUES SIGNÉES MYRIAM ÉLIE

Les bijoux Myel, ce sont des créations où l’élégance et le glamour sont mis de l’avant. La jeune designer Myriam Élie, une passionnée d’art et d’histoire, s’inspire de la nature, des symboles et de l’harmonie des formes. On pouvait d’ailleurs admirer ses créations lors du plus récent salon Expo Prestige. Ayant parcouru le monde, on note dans ses collections une influence des arabesques byzantines, des couleurs rappelant l’Afrique et les Tropiques et des accents du Moyen-Orient. Chaque pièce en or, en argent ou en bronze présente une interprétation moderne du passé. Entièrement conçues et fabriquées à Montréal, les créations Myel sont à l’image du travail des abeilles, des bijoux façonnés avec ardeur et perfection.

UNE BONNE PÉRIODE DES FÊTES EST À PRÉVOIR

Selon Shopper Trak, le temps des fêtes sera bon pour les commerçants cette année. Depuis novembre 2004, on note une tendance continue de l’augmentation des ventes, bien qu’elle soit encore frileuse. On prévoit que la saison des emplettes débutera plus tôt, mais qu’elle pourrait être affectée par le prix de l’essence, l’incertitude des consommateurs et la popularité grandissante des achats en ligne. Par contre, le domaine du luxe et la bijouterie devraient bien s’en tirer, surtout grâce à la résurgence qu’ils connaissent actuellement.

UN DIAMANT DE 118 CARATS CHEZ SOTHEBY’S

Depuis les années 90, seulement quatre diamants de plus de 100 carats ont marqué l’histoire des salles de vente : The Mouawad Splendour (101.84 carats), The Star of Happiness (100.36 carats), The Star of the Season (100.10 carats) et le Winston Legacy (101.73 carats). Cependant, on a découvert dans les mines d’Afrique du Sud un diamant totalisant 118,28 carats et qui affichait 299 carats avant sa taille. Ce diamant blanc couleur D est évalué entre 28 et 35 millions. CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

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Le directeur des services professionnels à la formation professionnelle et continue à la CS du Chemin-du-Roy, M. Luc Galvani, souhaitait ainsi « se rapprocher de la Corporation des bijoutiers du Québec et s’assurer de répondre aux besoins de main-d’œuvre ».

LES BRACELETS AMEN, NOUVEAUTÉ CHEZ FIVE STAR GOLD

Les bracelets Amen font partie d’une collection de bijoux unisexes distribués par Five Star Gold. Déclinés en deux collections, ils sont disponibles en 12 couleurs de cuir différentes, des plus classiques aux plus vibrantes. Les prières « Notre Père » et « Je vous salue Marie » sont directement gravées sur le cuir et peuvent être écrites en français, en anglais, en italien, en latin, en espagnol, en allemand et en portugais. Ils sont entièrement fabriqués en Italie et proposent une façon trendy de porter un bijou ayant une profonde signification.

Afin de mieux compétitionner dans le monde actuel, l’industrie du bijou doit améliorer davantage son marketing en ligne, selon Sarah Nanasi, directrice en solutions techniques publicitaires chez Google. Lors d’une rencontre qui a eu lieu le 6 septembre dernier avec la American Gem Society’s New York/New Jersey Guild, elle informait son auditoire que les bijoutiers n’ont pas à adopter des techniques hautement innovatrices, mais simplement à utiliser les outils qui sont mis à leur disposition. Par exemple, les outils d’analyse de Google permettent aux propriétaires de sites Web de savoir de quelle façon les internautes interagissent sur leur site Web. Elle soulignait aussi que, selon les statistiques, 79% des propriétaires de téléphones intelligents achètent via leurs appareils. Sans pour autant créer une application, il faut optimiser les sites mobiles afin qu’ils soient faciles à utiliser. Le marketing mobile n’est plus optionnel; il fait partie du tournant « social » que doivent adopter les entreprises.

LA FORMATION EN HORLOGERIE REGAGNE DU TERRAIN

Alors que son avenir était plutôt incertain, l’École nationale d’horlogerie de Trois-Rivières a enregistré des inscriptions en hausse pour l’année 2013-2014. Le programme n’attirait en moyenne que 15 étudiants par an et déjà, ils sont 25 cette année à avoir commencé leur formation. De plus, 11 autres devraient se joindre au groupe d’ici peu. Les dirigeants de la Commission scolaire du Chemin-du-Roy se réjouissent puisque ce regain de popularité pourrait assurer la survie du programme. L’école nationale d’horlogerie était d’ailleurs présente au salon Expo Prestige.

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L’INDUSTRIE DU BIJOU ET SA PRÉSENCE EN LIGNE

OPERA DIAMOND, DES BIJOUX LUXUEUX ET ABORDABLES

En plus d’avoir remporté le deuxième prix dans la catégorie du kiosque simple lors du dernier salon Expo Prestige à Montréal, Opera Diamond revient avec une collection haute en couleur et offre des pièces toutes plus originales les unes que les autres. Des bagues imposantes aux multiples pierres de couleur, ainsi que des bracelets et des pendentifs tantôt ornés de perles, tantôt de cristaux; voilà ce que propose Opera Diamond pour la prochaine saison. « Nous suivons de près les tendances. Notre but est de présenter des collections avant-gardistes et abordables », précise Danielle Crevier, vice-présidente de Opera Diamond. Toutes fabriquées en argent, les pièces sont choisies avec soin et savent plaire à tous les goûts.

LA CORPORATION DES BIJOUTIERS DU QUÉBEC VIENT EN AIDE À UNE BIJOUTERIE DE LAC MÉGANTIC

Lors de la récente tragédie de Lac Mégantic, Mme Bianka Tardif, propriétaire de la Bijouterie Le Pesant d’Or, a perdu son commerce. Afin d’aider Mme Tardif à surmonter cette dure épreuve et à se remettre sur pieds, la C.B.Q. a décidé d’organiser une collecte de fonds. Elle appelle donc ses membres, ainsi que toutes les personnes oeuvrant dans le domaine de la bijouterie, et spécialement au Québec, à faire preuve de générosité. Les dons peuvent être envoyés à l’adresse suivante : Corporation des bijoutiers, 868 rue Brissette, Sainte-Julie, QC, J3E 2B1.

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Pantone a dévoilé les tendances mode à surveiller pour la saison du printemps 2014. On a donc sélectionné 10 couleurs qui proposent une version moderne au courant traditionnel en agençant des teintes pastel à d’autres, très vives. Évoquant les fleurs qui éclosent, les voyages et les femmes de tête, les couleurs sont rafraîchissantes, vivifiantes et défient la sagesse conventionnelle. Leatrice Eiseman, directrice générale chez Pantone Color Institute, explique : « Cette saison, les consommatrices recherchent un état d’équilibre réfléchi, émotionnel et artistique. Alors que ce besoin de stabilité se reflète dans la composition de la palette, la souplesse intrinsèque de chaque couleur permet d’expérimenter de nouveaux looks et combinaisons de couleurs. » Les pastels évoquent ainsi le calme, la nostalgie et le ciel d’été. Les teintes neutres permettent de créer un pont avec les couleurs vibrantes qui suivent. Ces dernières créent des accents épicés, illuminés, optimistes et scintillants. Depuis plus de 20 ans, Pantone, l’autorité mondiale en matière de couleur, examine les designers lors de la Semaine de la Mode de New York afin de déterminer quelles seront les tendances de la saison.

MI MONEDA, LE PENDENTIF AUX MULTIPLES FACETTES

PANTONE DÉVOILE LES COULEURS PRINTANIÈRES

Dans l’Égypte ancienne, les pièces de monnaie étaient utilisées comme des amulettes. On les portait près du cœur et elles avaient une signification particulière. En 2009, un couple néerlandais passionné par les pièces de monnaie anciennes s’est inspiré de cette tradition et l’a revisitée à travers une collection de bijoux tendance et stylisée symbolisant l’amour, l’espoir et la force. Mi Moneda propose donc un pendentif en argent, plaqué d’or ou d’or rose que l’on agrémente d’une « moneda », semblable à une pièce de monnaie, ornée de nacre, de cuir, de cristaux, de pierres, etc. Ce pendentif unique interchangeable qui permet de créer un collier personnalisé a aussitôt connu un succès en Europe et a été adopté par de nombreux stylistes et vedettes. Fait à la main, le bijou est offert en trois grandeurs, et peut être porté comme un collier ou un bracelet. Une collection de bagues s’est aussi greffée et propose le même principe d’ornement interchangeable. CJ

LE LÉGENDAIRE HORLOGER DOMINIQUE LOISEAU EST DÉCÉDÉ

Reconnu pour ses créations complexes - dont les six Montres des Sables, la Rose des Temps, l’Alpha-Omega et la Blancpain 1735, les montres de poche Renaissance et Capriccio -, l’horloger avait joint Girard-Perregaux l’année dernière. En 2011, Dominique Loiseau avait mis au point la 1f4, une montre comprenant 32 fonctions et près de 1000 pièces. Elle n’est éditée qu’à deux exemplaires tous les ans. Il oeuvrait dans le domaine de l’horlogerie depuis le début des années 70, suivant ainsi les traces de son père. CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

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Expo Prestige brille à Montréal

Les 25, 26 et 27 août dernier avait lieu le salon Expo Prestige 2013 au Palais des congrès de Montréal. Entouré par ses sites historiques, ses musées et ses nombreuses boutiques, l’événement accueillait les gens de l’industrie de la bijouterie dans son environnement pittoresque. Par Véronique Dubé ORGANISÉ PAR LA CORPORATION DES BIJOUTIERS DU QUÉBEC,

Expo Prestige, qui en était à sa 43e année d’existence, réunissait près de 300 exposants et a une fois de plus connu un immense succès. Rendez-vous annuel des bijoutiers québécois, mais aussi canadiens et du Nord-Est des États-Unis, il était le dernier événement de la sorte à avoir lieu au Canada pour 2013. Il offrait ainsi aux détaillants la chance de s’approvisionner en bijoux, montres et horloges pour la période des fêtes.

TOUJOURS PLUS DE CHOIX

D’abord, on a noté la présence des fabricants de bijoux en or Malo, Almar, Ital Can et Sindbad qui, année après année, se démarquent pour leur impressionnant choix de chaînes, de bracelets, de bagues, de joncs, de pendentifs et de parures classiques. Le kiosque de Beverly Hills Jewellers demeurait un incontournable pour son choix de diamants canadiens et de bijoux ornés de pierres de toutes sortes. Corona Jewellery Company était aussi présente avec les marques Diamants en fête, I am Canadian et Maple Leaf Diamond. Du côté de Stuller, le diamant Signature 74MC – où une coupe de 74 facettes maximise la réflexion de la lumière – et le programme CounterSketch Studio étaient mis de l’avant. Les collections de Miss Mimi et Elle Time and Jewelry offraient un choix de bijoux abordables et à l’avant-garde qui laissent une grande place à la féminité. Distribuée par Sothil, Pasavento proposait des bijoux au design contemporain, destiné tant aux femmes qu’aux hommes qui recherchent style, créativité et luxe. Sothil possède aussi les marques de montres U-Boat, Welder, Davidoff et Maurice Lacroix, ainsi que les bijoux Nomination et Vahan. De plus, les pierres colorées ont encore la cote cette année. On l’a remarqué chez Noor Collection, Jewels by Anita et Gem Drops.

LES TENDANCES À SURVEILLER

On remarquait, encore une fois, une augmentation de la présence des marques. Les consommateurs en sont de plus en plus friands. On n’a qu’à penser à Amore & Baci, Guy Laroche et Thomas Sabo. L’or rose ou l’argent plaqué or rose sont aussi très populaires, tant pour les bijoux que pour les montres.

Les bijoux arborant des pyramides, qu’ils soient portés au doigt, aux oreilles ou au cou, étaient par ailleurs demandés. Les consommateurs aiment les pièces personnalisables et on n’hésite pas une seconde à mélanger le cuir, la soie ou l’acier inoxydable aux diamants ainsi qu’aux pierres précieuses et semi-précieuses. Les perles prennent de plus en plus de place dans les nouvelles collections. On l’a vu chez Créations Gilo et Aréli, mais aussi chez les importateurs de perles de Tahiti.

LES EXPOSANTS, BIJOUTIERS ET REPRÉSENTANTS RÉCOMPENSÉS

Pour l’occasion, la Corporation des bijoutiers du Québec a tenu à récompenser les exposants qui se sont démarqués par leur kiosque au niveau du design, des promotions, de l’hospitalité et du service. Dans la catégorie du kiosque simple, Bcouture a remporté le premier prix, suivi par Opera Diamond. Dans la catégorie du kiosque double, Elle Time and Jewelry/PAJ Canada est ressorti vainqueur et le deuxième prix est revenu à Bfly. Finalement, dans la catégorie du kiosque triple, la première place a été attribuée à Stuller, suivi par Beverly Hills Jewellers. François Perreault, de la bijouterie Perreault à Joliette, a été reconnu comme le meilleur détaillant de l’année par l’Association canadienne des représentants en bijouterie. De plus, on a souligné le travail des représentants de l’industrie de la bijouterie. Deux d’entre eux ont été honorés du titre de meilleur(e) représentant(e) de l’année : Michel Thibaudeau de Corona Jewellery Company ainsi que Francine Paul de La Bréa International et Groupe Courchesne. Pour terminer, Expo Prestige nous aura une fois de plus démontré que l’industrie de la bijouterie s’adapte aux nouveautés du marché, que vous soyez attirés par son côté classique, que vous recherchiez les marques ou que vous penchiez pour le glamour accessible des collections de bijoux importées. Et grâce au contexte économique actuel qui tend à s’améliorer, on ose les couleurs, on rêve de luxe et surtout, on laisse la passion et la folie s’afficher au grand jour. CJ

Dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre, en partant du coin supérieur gauche: Francine Paul, représentante de l’année pour La Bréa International et Groupe Courchesne; Premier prix pour le kiosque simple décerné à Bcouture; Michel Thibaudeau, représentant de l’année pour Corona Jewellery Company; Premier prix pour le kiosque triple décerné à Stuller; Kiosque de Gem Drops; Kiosque de Beverly Hills Jewellers; Quelques exposants du salon Expo Prestige; Premier prix pour le kiosque double décerné à Elle Time and Jewelry/ (PAJ Canada).

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

PHONE +1.416.783.0767 TOLL FREE +1.855.505.4669 FAX: +1.416.783.7112 79 WINGOLD AVENUE. UNIT 5, TORONTO, ONTARIO, CANADA M6B1P5 W W W . J I M M Y C R Y S T A L C A N A D A . C O M JIMMYCRYSTALCANADA@YAHOO.CA

holiday gift guide 2013

Holiday Gift Guide 2013

The Tango Collection Necklace in white gold with diamonds and South Sea pearls (Utopia, price upon request)

stock your store with seasonal sparkle, require some unique pieces for your displays, or just need some great gift ideas, you’ll love our guide to everything eye catching, jaw dropping and swoon-worthy for the holiday season… By Janine Druery and Irina Lytchak WHETHER YOU WANT TO

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

holiday gift guide 2013

For your favourite fashionista

Need some ideas for the most stylish women on your list? From the more traditional to the most on-trend, these pieces are sure to inspire…

Delectable Caviar

While the real thing may be appetizing to some, this “Caviar” ring is more mouth-watering to us! The ring combines sterling silver, 18k pink gold and pink, blue and white topaz. (Bohemme, $1,500)

We’ll Take Two, Please!

Paradise, indeed. These stunning Paradise Rings in Violet Mist and Champagne Mist in sterling silver with 18k yellow gold and diamonds are truly blissful. (Hera, $1,595 each)

Holiday Sparkle

You can certainly look like a million bucks without breaking the bank. Case in point, these eye-catching Silver and Diamond Bangles available in white, yellow or pink. (Overnight Mountings, $192)

True Blue

Telling time has never been more beautiful, with this women’s 30mm EBEL Onde watch in brushed and polished 18k rose gold with 38-diamond bezel. (EBEL, $18,500)

Why Not Give Flowers?

Flowers are always appreciated during the holidays, particularly when they come with diamonds. This Diamond Multi-sized Flower Necklace in 18k gold with 0.89cts of diamonds is pretty sweet. (Nova Diamonds Inc., $10,030)

N O V E M B E R / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Very Fresh

Le Vian’s Mint Green Amethyst earrings in 14k honey gold are fresh, original and absolutely delicious! (Le Vian, $3,447)

For the free spirit

There is nothing ordinary about these designs – and there is certainly nothing ordinary about the women who will look ultra fierce wearing them… Planetary Perfection

The planet Neptune is known for its high percentage of ices. It makes sense, then, that this Ladies Neptune Collection 10mm bracelet in frosted stainless steel has lots of “ice” of its own. (Tresor Paris, $199)

Powerful in Pink

This isn’t your Grandma’s pink! These 14k Genuine Pink Sapphire earrings are super chic and ready to rock. (Stuller, Inc., $3,239)

Get Personal

The “X” collection by Trollbeads lets you create a bracelet or necklace from a range of silver, bronze, gold and black rubber “X” links. A very innovative gift. Pictured is the Flower Bracelet, designed by Soren Nielsen. (X by Trollbeads, $447.50)

Wild Thing

Something a Little Different…

These Garland Spring earrings are anything but demure. They are big and beautiful, crafted of hand-strung black Italian rubber with Italian enamels and white stones set into sterling silver. (Belle Étoile, $250)

Jewellery designer Stephen Webster has us literally swooning over his ‘Fly By Night’ Couture Ring set in 18k rose gold with rubies and black and white diamonds. (Stephen Webster, $22,800)

Flower Power

This piece has to be nature at its finest – and funkiest: The Posy Black Pendant in rhodium-plated silver and orange stone blossoms. (Belle Étoile, $325)

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

holiday gift guide 2013

For him

Men’s jewellery is changing these days, as guys leave the “watch only” mindset behind (although who doesn’t love a great watch?). From bracelets to pendants, there is something for every man on your “bling list” this year.

Classic Meets Modern

The Finest Steel

Calvin Klein’s masculine Vigorous Ring in polished and matte stainless steel blends classic lines with contemporary style. (Calvin Klein, $85)

TW Steel has firmly established itself as a big, bold lifestyle brand. This Pilot TW407 48mm watch with Chronograph Miyota 0S20 movement more than fits the bill. (TW Steel, $529)

Love Letters

India Hicks says she named her alphabet jewellery collection “Love Letters” as her personal love letter to her designer father, David Nightingale Hicks. Her sterling silver, 16mm cufflinks are available in letters A-Z. (India Hicks, $375/pair).

“Unkaged”

Scott Kay’s men’s line is ultra cool, masculine and unique. Case in point, his Unkaged Collection’s Men’s SS Large Dog Tag with cross pattern on a 26” box chain. (Scott Kay, $465)

Classic and Elegant

The Clifton 100600 men’s watch was inspired by a historic Baume & Mercier timepiece. Well-designed and stylish, this 42mm watch is made of 18k red gold and has a black alligator strap. (Baume & Mercier, $13,950)

Bracelets to Embrace

Men are wearing more than just watches on their wrists these days. Check out these amazing Square Collection bracelets in stainless steel with rose-black PVD and black diamonds. (Chimento, price upon request)

N O V E M B E R / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Canadian Jeweller B: 9.25 X 11.125in T: 9 x 10.875in L: 8.5 x 10.375

ephraim zion of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it. Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.eDu

zion_CJ_2013.indd 1

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holiday gift guide 2013

For generation next Whether it’s earrings fit for a little princess, a bit of bling for a special “tween” or a funky charm bracelet for an exacting teenager, the next cohort of jewellery aficionados will delight in a sparkling holiday gift… Give Some “Good Luck”

A Little Bit of Bling

Kids of all ages will delight in a CRISLU Sparkling Necklace (Butterfly and Ladybug shown here). Each is made of CZs set in sterling silver and finished in pure platinum with sterling silver chains. (CRISLU, $71 each)

The “teddy bear” is a big part of TOUS’ brand; they call it their “good luck charm.” Why not give a bit of luck to someone you love? Here, the bear is featured in 18kt yellow gold on a stainless steel Mesh Ring. (TOUS, $299)

Bfly Butterflies

Little girls will sparkle and shine in utterly lovely pieces by Bfly. Pictured here are the BNatural pendant and earrings in 14k gold with butterfly-shaped genuine stones. (BFly, $75 and $99, respectively)

For Your Girly Girl

With so many Pandora options, it’s hard to choose just one. We love this purple smooth leather bracelet. The sterling silver purple pave charms, Murano glass charms and purple faceted Murano glass pendant add to the love! (Pandora, bracelet - $60; charms - $50-$75 each)

N O V E M B E R / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Express Yourself

Kameleon jewellery, with interchangeable JewelPops, will let your young ones express their uniqueness. Pictured here L to R: Garden of Joy JewelPop ($39), Burst my Bubble Lime JewelPop ($29), Cobalt Cat’s Eye JewelPop ($29), Swirl Pendant ($49); all by Kameleon

NATURAL WONDERS ™

FOR CANADIAN SALES INQUIRIES, CONTACT STEVE TURAC @ 514.771.7469

holiday gift guide 2013

For someone who has everything The age-old problem of what to get “someone who has everything” is now solved. We are (reasonably) sure they don’t already have any of these beautiful babies:

Red-Carpet Ready

It’s no wonder designer Stephen Webster is such a hit with celebs. His pieces, like this ‘Fly by Night’ Cuff set in 18k white gold with white diamonds. show incredible craftsmanship – and are way cool. (Stephen Webster, $79,500)

Make Her Happy

Who wouldn’t be overjoyed to get Chopard’s Happy Sport Medium Automatic watch with mechanical movement and seven diamonds? (Chopard, price upon request)

One-of-a-Kind A Lot of Panache!

Brumani mixes elegance and femininity with a dash of the Brazilian soul. This Panache Collection ring in 18k white and rose gold with white and brown diamonds, morganite and multicoloured sapphires is dazzling! (Brumani, price upon request)

A one-of-a-kind piece from Alexandra Mor is luxury at its finest. This 26.16 ct Sugarloaf-cabochon Emerald ring (18k white gold set on an 18k yellow gold band) with 0.84 carats of 1mm ‘floating’ diamonds is a stunning example. (Alexandra Mor, price upon request)

Breathtaking Beauties Wild Thing

This Elephant Limited Edition Collection white gold bracelet with colourless diamonds, black diamonds and jade is flat-out amazing. That is all! (Roberto Coin, price upon request)

N O V E M B E R / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Effy Hematian’s “Gemma” collection is marked by breathtaking, solitary gemstones in traditional settings. We adore these Gemma White Gold Emerald and Diamond Earrings with gems totalling 2.90cts. (Effy, $5,295)

The Most Prestigious Jewellery Show in Canada Le salon de bijouterie le plus prestigieux au Canada

EXPO PRESTIGE RESTIGE

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retail focus

A PUBLIC APOLOGY

Dear Joe and Jane Public: On behalf of the jewellery industry, I’d like to come clean with the truth about diamonds… By Todd Wasylyshyn DEAR JOE AND JANE PUBLIC,

I wish to extend a repentant olive branch on behalf of the entire jewellery industry for all of the confusion we’ve caused you over the years. I remember that time you first came in to buy a diamond engagement ring and I bombarded you with the minutiae of diamond grading. So many variables and so many more options than you ever thought possible! I regret that I completely missed the privilege of getting to know you so I could guide you toward diamond qualities that would fit your budget and the styles that would suit her fashion and lifestyle. I also feel bad about the time you came in to buy that anniversary diamond and I tried to explain why different diamond-grading laboratories have dissimilar grading standards. Usually the term “laboratory” is ascribed to facilities that operate under highly controlled and standardized conditions. I’m still trying to figure that one out myself! In order to make up for the convoluted way in which we in the jewellery industry have muddled your diamond buying experience, I’d like to come clean with the truth about diamonds. First, some are whiter than others. Secondly, some are more flawless than others. Thirdly, the larger, whiter and more flawless they are, the more rare they are. If diamonds were all the same price, we’d run out of the largest and most beautiful ones in a hurry. That’s why we have to discount the less rare diamonds and put a premium on the highly prized ones. If you look at the common clarity grading scale, there are 11 or 12 clarity grades from the lofty “flawless” to unfortunate “I3.” I think

N O V E M B E R / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

it’s time to narrow that down to three grades just to put you in control of your diamond destiny. The entry-level category of diamonds will be “value” diamonds (which would now include all “I” clarity diamonds and some lab-graded diamonds as high as “SI2s”). Although with your keen eye you should be able to see anywhere from a tiny black speck or a wispy white veil to significant opaqueness, you might overlook those in order to get the size of diamond you want. The more difficult it is to find these inclusions or characteristics, the higher your cost will be within the “value” category. The second new clarity grade is called “eye-clean.” Once you have looked at these beautiful specimens with your unaided eyes, and determined that the diamond appears perfectly flawless, you should probably ask the jeweller to show you how to use a 10X magnifier to see what your unaided eye can not. When magnified, you will discover some very small hindrances to the diamond’s transparency, and then you can decide if that’s tolerable for the cost. Once again, prices will vary within the “eye-clean” category, and your diamond might come with papers quantifying the clarity as anything from SI3 through VS1. No matter what the papers say, make sure that it’s flawless to your naked eye, and compare several to make sure you’re comfortable with the relative cleanliness inside your diamond. For those who want a really rare gemstone to celebrate your momentous occasion, you might explore the world of “collector quality” diamonds. It takes patience, practice and a

keen eye to use a 10X loupe or a microscope to look within a diamond and appreciate the variations and locations of microscopic inclusions. Once mastered, you can select your ideal diamond just as a wine connoisseur analyses the subtle nuances in prized vintages. Whether your jeweller is trained in this three-grade clarity system or not, you can use these terms to your benefit when shopping for your next diamond. When shopping for a white diamond, you can apply the terms “collector colour,” “white” and “slightly tinted” to simplify the 23-level colour scale. You see? It doesn’t have to be confusing after all. Look at the diamonds and see if they speak to you. Search for visible inclusions. Compare two or three diamonds side by side to see if you can spot the differences. Decide what’s important to you. Understand that rare diamonds must be priced higher than common ones. And look at the diamond itself – not just the paperwork accompanying it. If you’re trying to outsmart jewellers by playing one off another to get the lowest price, you’ll eventually come across the one bad apple that will tell you the lie you want to hear. Whether you’re buying it for yourself or a loved one, buy a diamond that literally puts a sparkle in your eye. Getting the diamond you want may require a bit of a sacrifice. However, when you buy quality it only hurts once! CJ Todd Wasylyshyn has been an active member of the jewellery industry for over 20 years, and currently reps for Customgold and Courtney Gold of Vancouver and Lashbrook Designs of Utah. Check out his blog at toddwaz.blogspot.com.

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

135th year retrospective

Canadian Jeweller through the

135th

TO MARK OUR UPCOMING 135TH ANNIVERSARY, Canadian Jeweller Magazine is taking a look back at the remarkable changes in the magazine and the jewellery world in the past 135 years. In our last issue, we examined the 1930s and 1940s; here, we look at the 1950s and the post-war fashion resurgence…

THE

1950s

In history: The 1950s were defined by a recovery from the damage left behind by the Second World War, as people began to look toward the future with a sense of hope. Jewellery styles at the time were divided into two categories. The first category included pieces that were still heavily influenced by the 1940s, while the second category consisted of jewellery defined by the new decade and pieces that were feminine and opulent, following the end of the war. A post-war fashion revival was in full swing, and was all about celebrating extravagant jewellery that featured gold and fabrics being fashioned into elements of fringes, tassels and plaits. The economic recovery created a new class of clientele that would be catered to by large jewellery names like Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier. The people with the most money wanted to parade their wealth by purchasing jewellery that was big, bold and featured a lot of bright, precious stones. One name that stood out at the time was Harry Winston, who made a tremendous impact on that era with its revolutionary designs. The trend of wearing large and expensive jewellery did not just apply to the upper class. Individuals that did not have the disposable income that would allow them to afford the real thing wanted to create

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Ages

By Irina Lytchak and Marielle Torrefranca the illusion of wealth and prosperity through their jewellery. Thus began a trend of engagement rings that featured prong settings that made the diamond look larger than its actual size. In 1948, DeBeers conceived its slogan, “Diamonds are forever,” which greatly impacted the jewellery market of the 1950s, making the diamond engagement ring a must-have for newly engaged couples. In the magazine: The Trader and Canadian Jeweller, as the magazine was known at the time, started to publish the first semblances of an official cover as opposed to previous first page designs that just featured a logo and text. Advertisements become more colourful and stylized, featuring women in fashionable clothes that echoed the trends of that era. BELOW LEFT: AN AD FEATURING CORO PEARLS IN THE MARCH 1950 ISSUE OF THE TRADER AND CANADIAN JEWELLER. CREATED IN 1901 UNDER THE NAME COHN & ROSENBERG, THE COMPANY CHANGED ITS NAME TO CORO, INC. IN 1943. THE AMERICAN DIVISION OF CORO WENT OUT OF BUSINESS IN 1979 AND THE CANADIAN DIVISION FUNCTIONED UNTIL THE MID-90s; BELOW RIGHT: A DOUBLE-PAGE, COLOUR AD FROM BULOVA WATCH COMPANY LIMITED, FOUNDED IN NEW YORK IN 1875

1. MENS CHRONOGRAPH, HAND-WOUND, NICKEL-FINISHED, ANCHOR ESCAPEMENT, 17 JEWELS, STAINLESS STEEL CASE, 1950 (BUCHERER); 2. LADIES WATCH, HAND-WOUND, 17 JEWELS, 18K YELLOW GOLD CASE AND BRACELET WITH 52 DIAMONDS (BUCHERER); 3. EMERALD, DIAMOND AND GOLD FLORAL BROOCH BY TIFFANY & CO., CIRCA 1955 (DUPUIS FINE JEWELLERY AUCTIONEERS, $15,000-18,000); 4. WOVEN BRACELET WITH HIDDEN OMEGA WATCH IN 14K GOLD (LANG ANTIQUES, $4,750); 5. GARLAND NECKLACE IN SILVER LINED WITH GOLD AND ENCRUSTED WITH ROSE-CUT DIAMONDS AND DROP PEARLS, 1958 (MARIO BUCCELLATI); 6. “CHEVEUX D’ANGE” ESTATE NECKLACE FEATURING DIAMONDS SET IN PLATINUM AND 18K YELLOW AND ROSE GOLD, 1959 (VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, $90,000); 7. DROP EARRINGS IN WHITE GOLD IN A LEAF PATTERN, SET WITH DIAMONDS AND TWO MAGNIFICENT GREEN FACETED TOURMALINES IN THE CENTRE, 1959 (MARIO BUCCELLATI); 8. A MARCH 1950 ISSUE OF THE TRADER AND CANADIAN JEWELLER

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

on display

DAZZLING HOLIDAY DISPLAYS

Here’s a list of some easy ways to get your store’s showcase displays ready for the holiday season... By Larry B. Johnson WITH THE HOLIDAY SALES SEASON approaching, now is the perfect time for retail jewellers to be certain their showcase display presentations are ready. Making the effort to get everything organized for the rush of customers will pay off in higher sales – typically at better margins. Here are a few quick and easy suggestions to ensure your store’s cases present your merchandise at its very best:

01.

Replace any old, ragged display elements. It is hard for you to convincingly tell a customer about the “high quality” of a piece of jewellery when the neckform you took it from looks like it came from a garage sale.

02.

Take a few minutes each day to clean off all of the accumulated sweat, dirt, makeup, dust, grime, jeweller’s rouge and whatever else has found its way into your cases. Use a diluted solution of Simple Green cleaner on your leatherettes; be careful not to scrub off the varnish coating. Let the cleaner do the work. Suedes can be cleaned with suede cleaner; call your display supplier for suggestions.

03.

Do you have tired looking showcases and a tight budget? Change the floorboard fabric to a different colour. For about $40 per showcase, you can give your cases a new look – even with those display trays from 1985. Use professional-grade fabrics from your display provider to be sure the new fabric does not fade or emit sulphur dioxide fumes that will tarnish your jewellery and turn the goods

N O V E M B E R / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

black. Fabric from the shop down the street is not made for the heavy-duty conditions inside your cases.

04.

Replace any burned out light bulbs in or above the showcases. Customers won’t buy what they can’t see.

05.

Pick out the four to six items in each showcase you most want to sell this year and display them differently. For example, put a ring on a finger with a business card under it with the words: “My personal favourite.” Get “key item” displays from your display vendor. Do something to attract extra attention to those few items. The more people that see them, the better the odds are they will have new homes by New Year’s Day.

06.

Put price tags on a few items in each case that look like “really great deals.” If your customers see a piece of jewellery in the case that looks like it should sell for about $1,000 and you have it listed for $699, they perceive your store as having “good values.” Show them a few good values and their impression will be that the entire store is full of bargains.

07.

Take photos of each showcase and its contents on November 1st and December 1st. In January, when you look back on your holiday results, it will help you see how your merchandise was presented. If a particular layout resulted in sales that were great, do

more of them in the future. If sales were soft, try something different. Without a photo record, you might make the same display mistakes repeatedly.

08.

When it comes to holiday décor, consider decorating the store interior, not the inside of the showcases. I see many retailers filling their cases with holiday glitter that outshines the merchandise. Never put anything shiny in the showcase that isn’t for sale.

09.

On December 15th, go into full-court press. Add signs directing your customers to a selection of "last minute" gift ideas. Your clients have no time to waste, so do the thinking for them. Make it easy for them to find the right items, quickly and without any hassle. They will remember that you had the answer when they are late again next year. Implementing these easy ideas can help you positively impact your sales during the holiday season. Try them and see if they provide you with your own personal version of “holiday cheer.” CJ

Larry B. Johnson, Senior VP at Pacific Northern, is the author of The Complete Guide to Effective Jewelry Display, the bestselling and most widely read text on jewellery merchandising. He speaks at industry events around the world and is the holder of multiple U.S. patents for displays and packaging products. Visit him online at larrybjohnson.com.

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feature

VicenzaOro and About J: Bellissimo Italy prides itself on putting on one of the world’s most renowned jewellery fairs. And, at this year’s Fall 2013 installment of About J and VicenzaOro, visitors were both awed and inspired by the splendid jewellery offerings. By Irina Lytchak WORDS ALONE CANNOT DESCRIBE THE SHEER GRANDEUR and magnificence of Italy. That’s why this country serves as the ideal setting for two very prestigious jewellery shows, About J and VicenzaOro. The Fall 2013 exhibitions presented a strong movement of self-expression, reflective of the current generation breaking away from the norm and embracing innovative designs. “I’m very pleased that there is a new generation of designers and people that are not necessarily coming from the [jewellery] tradition,

and I think this is bringing a fresh air to the industry,” says Paola De Luca, forecaster and creative director of TRENDVISION Jewellery + Forecasting. “I’m very optimistic because I see things happening and if there are new faces in the industry, it means that there are new opportunities for them.”

+ Above, left to right: Baobab, Rose and Grass Collection Bracelets in 18k yellow and rose gold with brown and white diamonds, pink, smoky and lemon quartz, pink tourmaline, ruby mandarin garnet and aquamarine (Brumani, $5,522-$10,479); Stephen Webster for Gemfields ‘Fly By Night’ Cascade Earrings set in blackened white gold with black and white diamonds (Stephen Webster, $14,150); Roberto Coin display from the Animalia Collection

ABOUT J 2013

ABOUT J is an invitation-only affair that was launched in 2008 with the purpose of bringing together a group of select, high-end retailers, buyers and members of the press in an intimate and avant-garde setting. This year’s exclusive event was held at the Hilton Molino Stucky in Venice and also served as a smaller-scale preview to the excitement that is VicenzaOro. The show, held from September 4 to 6, included around 30 of the top jewellery brands such as Brumani, Charade, Crivelli, Fraleoni, Hellmuth, Mimi Milano, Roberto Coin, and Stefan Hafner.

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The opening day of the show included a special ceremony honouring legendary jeweller Gianmaria Buccellati with the Andrea Palladio International Jewelry Career Award. Italian jewellery house Buccellati has established an international reputation for creating beautiful hand-made pieces in silver and gold since the start of the 20th century. The experience provided an excellent opportunity for quality sellers, buyers and press to establish new relationships.

+ Clockwise from top left: Collection Haiku 4 Seasons Winter Watch in white gold with diamonds and semiprecious stones (Palmiero, price upon request); Round brilliant cut diamonds with fancy colour yellow diamonds studded in 18k white gold Bangle (Bapalal Keshavlal, $21,000); 925 Silver Charm with 18k gold plating and enamel details (Rosato, $167.23); Elisir Collection rose gold and amethyst or topaz rings, earrings and necklace with white diamonds (Chimento, price upon request)

VICENZAORO FALL 2013

HELD IN THE SMALL CITY OF VICENZA, the most recent edition of

VicenzaOro was an excellent illustration of the prominence of the European jewellery market. Fiera di Vicenza, the company behind VicenzaOro, succeeded yet again in putting on a premium event. The total number of attending exhibitors and brands, including Graziella, Vendorafa Italy, Roberto Bravo, Talento Italiano, Shinju Pearls, Crieri, and Casato, this year was 1,196, with 860 Italian exhibitors representing 52 Italian provinces like Vicenza, Padua, and Como. The fair also included 336 foreign exhibitors, representing 27 countries. From September 7 to 11, visitors to the fair were able to get a first-hand look at some of the trends set to drive the industry in 2015. Paola De Luca gave a special presentation outlining four trends for 2014: Abstract Minimalism, Electro Goth, Avant-Garde Exoticism and Digital City.

In a marked moment for the industry, TRENDVISION unveiled TRENDBOOK 2015+, a global reference for the jewellery and watch industries, on the opening day of the show. De Luca, who has studied forecasting and has worked for a number of leading fashion houses, says that the new book contains highly analyzed information developed through the process of collecting of data from various contributors to TRENDVISION. VicenzaOro also played host to the inaugural porte-bonheur: Contemporary Amulets & Talismans. The exhibit showcased 20 amulets and talismans created by young international designers. CJ

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

from the bench

SOLDERING TRICKS

photo: Dee Fontans

By following some simple soldering tricks, you can speed things up in your workshop. By Charles Lewton-Brain

IN THE WORKSHOP, SPEED IS KING. And time is money. To hurry things

up, there are a myriad of tricks that can be used in soldering. Soldering weights offer a very fast way of holding items still while soldering. Traditionally, they are made from rectangular blocks of solid steel to which a hold-down rod has been attached. To use them you simply swing a holding arm onto the object you want to hold steady, while you solder another part to it. It is useful to have several so you can vary the weight on the object and use more than one on a single piece. Different sizes are useful and are very quick to use; they easily swing in place to hold an object down while performing a soldering operation (which is definitely faster than a third arm for many situations). The hold-down rod on the soldering weight can have a notched, drilled or grooved holding end to hold different surfaces or wires in place. Even a sardine can filled with typemetal or lead will work. I like to make them from rectangular 1/8" thick sheets of steel (3" x 5" for example) with an 1/8" steel rod brazed (think hard-soldered) onto the block, using a white paste flux and brass to solder it in place on the steel rectangle. An old needle file can serve well as the rod. If you use a sheet of steel instead of a solid block it makes a relatively light soldering weight, yet allows you to easily stack bricks or other objects onto the flat surface of the weight to have variable weights quickly.

Thin " foot" to hold things with minimal heat sink effects and to slip under parts to hold them down

Another version of a soldering weight was developed by Chris Hentz of Louisiana. Three very large nails are joined to make a tripod. This is much lighter than the slab version of the weight. It is especially useful for very delicate holding jobs. You simply lift the leg and place it. I have added some magnets with a hole in them so I can rapidly alter the weight by sliding them up and down the nail. A speedy way of fixing a part in place is to use T-pins such as those used by fabric artists and seamstresses. They can be bent over and pushed into soft fire brick to hold things down in a similar way to how blacksmiths clamp things onto an anvil with a ‘hold-down tool’ tapped into a hole in the top of the anvil. T-pins work very well for holding small parts steady. A soldering trick from Idaho’s Robert Kaylor is to use the hefty round or ring-like magnet from a stereo speaker as a holding tool for the back end of one or more steel, self-locking tweezers. They are easily maneuverable, quick to place and remove and hold objects the thickness of the magnet (about one cm) off the soldering surface. The magnets can also be mounted in a number of ways (on their sides, etc.) to allow other holding positions for the self-locking tweezers. Magnets salvaged from computer hard drives and microwave ovens can be used in the same way. CJ Charles Lewton-Brain is a goldsmith, author and educator. He invented fold-forming, a completely new way of working sheet metals, and is the author such jewellery books as Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop. A co-founder of the Ganoksin project for jewellers (ganoksin.com), he won the Governor General’s Award for Fine Craft in 2012.

Soldering weight

Round end to hold with minimal heat sink effects

Grooved to hold tubing and wire in place

Brick can be placed on soldering weight to make it heavier

Left to right: soldering weight, tripod weight

NOVEMBER 2013 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

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N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / 足C 足足 A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

material focus

Straps to Watch

While most people still opt for traditional leather or metal straps, there are more and more customers seeking out the unconventional. What retailers need to know… By Sarah B. Hood THE MODEST WATCHSTRAP DOES MORE THAN just keep a watch on a

customer’s wrist. It can be a fashion statement for the client, an extra revenue stream for the retailer, and a tool for building a relationship between the two. Some distributors, like Jean-François Courchesne, see growth potential in this niche. Courchesne is the president of Groupe Courchesne, which has been importing and distributing high-end Austrian Hirsch watchbands since 1979. “We call them ‘watch bracelets’; it has not only the function of holding the watch, it has a fashion function,” he says. “The renaissance of mechanical watches was of major influence for the bracelet business, a fact which is also reflected by the revival of natural, untreated leathers, [such] as our artisan leathers,” Courchesne says. “There also seems to be a tendency towards other ‘soft’ materials – especially caoutchouc [natural rubber]. The possibility to produce bracelets in feminine colours as well further strengthens this trend and opens up new targets.”

A REPLACEMENT INDUSTRY

Patrick Monney, president of importer and distributor Valangin Inc., estimates that globally, metal straps represent about 65 per cent of the market, with the remaining 35 per cent split among leather and alternative materials such as fabric, rubber and silicone. However, he says the market share for metal straps is shrinking. After a decline about five years ago, leather has started to rebound during the past two years, and “this year in Basel a lot of the top watch brands went back to leather,” says Monney. “This year, a lot of the middle-range watches also started to come back to leather, so there’s a net comeback in the leather bands,” he says. “When the business is good for leather, there’s a high turnover, but when you go to metal, you can go five years [without a replacement].” However, says Paul Sine, vice president of marketing for Timex Group Canada, Inc., “The watchstrap industry is really a replacement industry. In our view, consumers don’t look for a new colourful watch; they probably love one watch and they want to keep it. Within the replacement industry, there isn’t much change.” In the view of Raj Tilokani, managing director for Alpine International, “the watchband industry has been declining over the last five or six years. More and more watches are coming with custom-fit metal bands so customers don’t go out and buy in the market; they have to go back to [the manufacturer],” he says. “In spite of that, our sales have always grown.”

COMFORT AND LONGEVITY

What makes a good watchstrap? “A premium quality bracelet is characterized by perfect aesthetics, longevity and, probably the most important point, a pleasant wearing-comfort,” says Courchesne. “Only then does the product deserve the name ‘bracelet’ rather than ‘strap’.” Monney suggests looking at stitching, lining and the edges, “especially where the strap is attached at the lugs of the watch.” The lining may have hand or machine stitching. “The machine stitching is very thin; the lining can be hand-stitched, which is better quality.” The strap may have a straight-edge cut, which may be varnished. “Some of the companies in the U.S. use a rubberized dye; it’s slippery. It’s good-quality, yet it doesn’t last. As soon as it gets worn it will disintegrate,” he says. A second type of strap is “rembordé”: “in English, a turned edge,” he explains. “Some are sewed and some are glued.” Padding is another consideration. Some straps are unpadded, while “Some use synthetic leather; some use foam. The foam has nowhere near the quality of the synthetic leather.” Some of the top lines are now using a strap with an “insert”, he adds: an extension made to fit closely to the contours of the watch it was designed for.

WHAT’S ON-TREND

In a July 2013 post, the anonymous author of a high-end collectors’ blog called “Hong Kong Watch Fever” marvels at the new trends; instead of fine leather, buyers of top brands are now choosing alternative materials, such as silicone or rubber. He notes Cartier collections that feature a satin bracelet. He’s wowed by new colours, like the “orange, purple or silver grey” offered by Hermès, and by the possibility of monogramming your family name on your watch strap, “like your personal custom made shirt.” This trend isn’t for everyone. “Fifty per cent of the non-metal straps being sold are black; 30 per cent are brown. The rest are different colours,” says Monney. However, says Courchesne, “there is a segment of the market that’s looking for novelty. “There seems to be a tendency towards natural, earthy colours. Another good hint in terms of colours is to have a look at the palette which we offer in our fashion bracelets, such as Princess, Cashmere and Scandic, with the new colours coral and mint.” “We do have research that says there are people who own five-plus watches,” says Sine. “We have a group of people who are collectors, who want fast-fashion, brand-specific watches. They’re spread across all price points.” Also, some consumers “will change the colour, the texture or the quality of the strap to give it a slightly different look.”

Left: Timex Originals patent leather tortoise strap style watch (Timex, $80)

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

material focus

Clockwise from top right: 18-22mm Squeeze End straps (Alpine International, $15.95); Pink Silicon Band (Alpine International, $11.95); Flat Calf Leather band in purple (Alpine, International, $17.95); Silicon Band in black (Alpine International, $12); Lucca strap with traditional, ground-tanned, vat-dyed Italian calf leather (HIRSCH); Extreme strap with natural rubber and overlapping segments for extendibility (HIRSCH)

Furthermore, Monney says, jewellers are not exploiting deployment buckles. “We make deployment buckles that can adapt to any watchstrap, and they can be engraved,” he says. Also, “we’re in the process of doing straps that the consumer themselves can take off their watch, so they’ll be able to have a watch with several colours of watchstrap.” He cites crocodile as a popular upgrade. The Timex Originals line comes with leather straps treated to resemble herringbone tweed, tortoiseshell, denim or wood grain, designed for the people who own multiple watches. “[The fashion media] keep telling us ‘you guys are right on the trends’,” says Sine. “If you look at the fashion magazines right now, it’s tweeds. The band really helps to finish that look.”

RUBBER AND SILICONE

Courchesne believes rubber – particularly Hirsch’s premium caoutchouc – is on the upswing, while “textiles are still a trend for feminine watches.” Tilokani says, “the new trend is [the] military

band: a one-piece nylon band with a few metal loops. You can wrap [it] around your wrist three or four times. Some expensive watches are coming with those; I’m very surprised.” He says rubber and silicone are also “very popular,” and that he’s selling red, blue and white straps. “In the last two years silicone has caught on strong,” comments Monney. “It used to be polyurethane, rubber and PVC, but people like the soft texture of the silicone. You have some that smell like vanilla or chocolate.” Valangin tracks sales statistics, so “when we make up a display, we follow the trend. If [the retailer] sells all of his black straps in the display he’s already made back the costs of the whole display, plus about 20 per cent.”

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RETAILER PROFITABILITY

“We know that for retailers it’s an important business,” says Sine. “It allows retailers to start building a relationship with that consumer, because it’s a service. Also, it’s very profitable for them. Visibility is really important, so consumers know the business and want to start that relationship.” “I consider our business to be one of the best customer relationship management systems,” says Courchesne. “If you manage to please your customer with an obviously simple ‘replacement article’ and inspire them with unexpected attention and service, he or she is certainly more likely to return to this special jeweller when it comes to buying watches and jewellery as well.” CJ

WATCHSTRAP ADVERTISERS IN THIS ISSUE: Jimmy Crystal Canada - www.jimmycrystalny.com / 416.783.0767 Mary Jewellery - www.maryjewellery.com / 888.470.MARY(6279) Movado Group of Canada - www.movadogroup.com / 905.415.0536 Ottimo Creations - www.info@ottimocreations.com / 514.332.0301 PAJ Elle - www.ellejewelry.com / 888.520-8802 Rio Grande/The Bell Group - www.riogrande.com / 800.253.9738 Stuller Inc. - www.stuller.com / 866.815.5511 TimeRevolution - www.timerevolution.com / 905.282.1921

2014

new generation

HANDING IT DOWN:

Taking over the family business

Interviews with up-and-coming jewellers at TimeRevolution.com, Arman’s Jewellers, Ultimate 24K Gold Company and Davidson’s Jewellers reveal a new generation filled with passion, pride and devotion to their family businesses. By Sarah B. Hood FAMILY TIME MAKING A REPAIR BUSINESS SOAR AT TIMEREVOLUTION.COM SINCE TWO MEMBERS OF THE NEWEST GENERATION have joined Kuldip

Devin and Mano Rupra

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Rupra’s watch repair company, TimeRevolution.com, it has been able to expand far beyond its beginnings as a home-based business. Son Devin Rupra, 33, handles the printing and refinishing, such as corporate logos and engraving. “I set up all the machinery that we have in-house. If you need something done, I can find a way to do it,” he says. “We also create all of our dyes in-house.” Daughter Mano Rupra, 32, serves as operations manager. Besides daily administration, she “spent a lot of time with a programmer and we actually built a repair program from scratch, and now some of our other clients are interested in possibly purchasing it,” she says. The Rupra family has been in the watch-making business for five generations. In Toronto, Kuldip developed a large client base before buying a company called Linkar. “We ran under that name for a few years; about five years ago we moved to a new location and renamed the company to be more reflective of what we do,” says Mano. Initially, she did not expect to join the business. “I only saw the actual manual side of repairing, which I definitely thought was a difficult skill to learn,” she says. She studied economics at McMaster University in Hamilton and acquired Certified Human Resources Professional (CHRP) and Payroll

A new website from Canadian Jeweller Magazine, strictly for industry professionals. To give members of the jewellery and watch trade a better online experience, Canadian Jeweller Magazine is giving its website a makeover!

By signing up and becoming a member of Canadian Jeweller Magazine through our new website, trade members will have exclusive access to:

The new site will be clear, easy-to-navigate, especially designed for industry professionals, and not accessible to the general public.

• The annual Buyers’ Guide • Commenting on full-length feature articles MAGAZINE • An inside look at the industry’s top players and the latest news

EASE OF NAVIGATION The site will be easy to navigate and feature an outstanding user experience.

RESPONSIVE LAYOUT The site will provide accessibility across all devices and platforms.

STRIKING DESIGN Viewers will enjoy a beautifully designed, revamped website. USEFUL INFORMATION From industry news to magazine issues to webinars, the new site will offer the most up-todate industry information.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

new generation

Compliance Practitioner (PCP) designations before beginning to learn the business under a veteran employee just to “see how the day-to-day was,” she says. “I began to become more and more involved with the business.” About five years ago, with the move to the new location, she formally took over the company’s operations management. “We started pitching to become the authorized Canadian service centre for Gucci, Raymond Weil, Phillip Stein, 88 Rue du Rhone, TechnoMarine, Kate Spade, Links of London and Pandora. That’s the direction that we wanted to go,” she says. “At that time, I got the opportunity to start writing the proposals and back-up information, and I eventually took on more of a management role.” By contrast, Devin was always a “mechanical kid.” He apprenticed as a millwright through Sheridan College, then worked in the trade for about two years before opening his own automotive shop. “As my father became busier he asked me to join him,” he says. Mano believes there are numerous advantages in being part of a family company. “First and foremost are that trust factor and that sense of responsibility.” Because each decision affects business and home life, “you tend to put a lot more thought into things you do and decisions that you make,” she says. “Between my father, my sister and myself, we share all sorts of different backgrounds, and we combine all that,” says Devin. “As a company, that makes us stronger.”

Sarkis, Talin and Dikran Tchabrazian

the factory, and that’s where I would spend most of my summer and my free time,” he says. “My father was the one who immigrated to Canada, and then the rest of the family came throughout the years. Before he founded Arman’s Jewellers in 2001, my dad was working with my grandfather manufacturing for companies in Toronto in the back as DSK Goldsmithing [for Dikran Sarkis Kaspar], with retail in the front.” From age 15, Tchabrazian helped out around the business and began to learn goldsmithing from his father. The company was primarily selling original designs, with a few designs from other Toronto suppliers. “Recently, I’ve been trying to turn the company around to a new direction,” he says. “Now that I have more knowledge, now that I know the industry, now that the economy is not as good as it was 10 years ago, we’re trying to expand the retail, so we’re going with new brands like Elle.” The company is also bringing in the Toronto-based BCouture brand, which has recently launched a silver line. “It’s going to be fresh, new, different and affordable for most people,” says Tchabrazian. “We’re trying to go less for the high-end jewellery; we’re trying to go for companies that not a lot of retailers have – unique; you can only come and get it at Arman’s Jewellers.” At the young age of 21, Tchabrazian is already deeply engaged in the business. “I try to spend as much time with my friends as possible, yet it’s never a chore to go to the store or the manufacturing, because it’s kind of my passion. It’s what I think, this company, all the time; it’s kind of like my baby,” he says. “I always knew that I would stay in the business no matter what, yet I always had visions of doing something else as well. I’m finishing my fourth year of Biomedical Science at the University of Waterloo,” he says. “This summer I was working full-time at a pharmacy too; whenever I was done, at lunch or even before [work], I would go to the store and set up, help clean up, whatever I could do to help my family. So it was a busy summer!” Clearly, despite any drawbacks, working with family suits Tchabrazian. “If it’s not my parents, it’s me; even at the dinner table we’re talking about the business,” he says. “There’s no break… but I’m not complaining, because there’s always room for improvement, in my eyes.”

IN HER MOTHER’S FOOTSTEPS LEARNING ABOUT CULTURE AND BUSINESS AT ULTIMATE 24K GOLD “I NEVER THOUGHT I WOULD BE IN JEWELLERY. When I first started,

GOING FOR GOLD THE LOVE OF THE FAMILY BUSINESS AT ARMAN’S JEWELLERS SARKIS TCHABRAZIAN OF ARMAN’S JEWELLERS in downtown Kitchener, Ontario is named for his grandfather. Yet his family history in the jewellery

industry extends even farther back, beginning with his great-great grandfather, who left Armenia for Syria to escape the Armenian genocide. The family opened a successful chain manufacturing company in Aleppo, where Tchabrazian was introduced to the industry as a child. “My dad [Dikran Tchabrazian] had two brothers; they were working in

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

I just wanted to help my mother,” says CiCi Yim, managing director of Ultimate 24K Gold Company Ltd. in Vancouver. The business, which specializes in gold, jade and jadeite, was founded in 1992. “My mother started the business,” says Yim. “I didn’t officially get into the business until I was about 22, after my Bachelor’s degree in Psychology at UBC.” Hoping to be useful, Yim took her AJP (Accredited Jewellery Professional) certification with GIA. “Originally I wanted to be an actress or a model,” she says. “After I graduated, [my mother] started taking me to jewellery exhibitions in Hong Kong and beauty pageants. I started modelling jewellery in our store.” Yim began to gain a deeper understanding of the business shadowing her mother. “I’m born and raised in Vancouver, and our business was very Chinese-oriented, so I had to learn a totally different culture,” she says. “Our business is well known in the Chinese industry, not the

CiCi Yim

western industry. I grew up in an Asian family, but I had to learn. Asians are very collective; they think as one family, whereas Canadians are very individualistic. When you’re dealing with a Chinese person, you have to know how they think, especially the mainlander industry; you really have to know their culture to deal with them.” For example, “When they come into the store, you can say “Hi” and leave them alone. If they want you, they’ll come to you, whereas Caucasians may want you to take them through the whole journey of the store. It depends on their age group,too. The younger generation, they do a lot of research; it’s like ‘I took a GIA course just to buy a diamond for my wife!’” In 2008, Yim took an MBA at the University of Birmingham in the UK. “It actually opened my mind; it showed me the world,” she says “All my projects were focused on the store. When I came back from England I started a gem log and finished the Canadian FCGMA, and then I started an online shop – that was my thesis actually. That was very successful.” Despite the low economy, Yim says she was “pretty shocked that people were buying 24 karat gold.” Now at age 33, she has opened a school offering a Canadian certificate of jadeite and jade, which, she says, “is actually a very big market right now and not many people know about it. If you go to Hong Kong international jewellery shows, it can be auctioned for millions of dollars.” Apparently Yim has no regrets. “Lots of kids don’t like working with family. It’s not easy, and they would like to hang out with their friends,” she says. “Even though I was born here, very Canadian, I always wanted to help my mother. That’s kind of a motivation for me.”

Anderson obtained a Bachelor of Commerce at Ryerson University in Toronto. However, he continued to work during his holidays with his mentor, Stuart Patterson, in Smith’s Falls. “He was a watchmaker and did some goldsmithing as well,” Anderson says. “I’m not a watchmaker by any stretch, yet I was able to learn some techniques by watching him that I can still use all the time.” By this time, the jewellery industry was clearly beckoning. “I just enjoy working with the product. I really love diamonds and gemstones,” he says. “It’s also nice working in a business where you’re helping your clients celebrate special occasions in their lives. I like the business aspect of it as well.” In 2006, Anderson moved to Kalamazoo, Michigan, where he spent a year with a firm called Morrison Jewelers, while working at the same time on his GIA Graduate Gemologist certification. When he returned to Ontario in the fall of 2007, still not absolutely certain of his career path, he decided to head to Ottawa to explore job possibilities. I met with Judy [Davidson], and she hired me for the Christmas season… the longest Christmas season I’ve ever had!” he quips. After he had been at Davidson’s for a little while, “Judy sat down with me and asked me what my plans were. At that point, I don’t think I had been thinking of it, but I asked her whether she would ever consider selling the company, or a part of it. She took some time to think about it – I think I kind of caught her off guard. Before we knew it, her accountant was working with my accountant.” With Davidson in semi-retirement, Anderson, now age 33, has been running the business since 2010. “The way I look at it, I’m using everything that Judy did as a strong foundation for where we want to go,” he says. “In the last year we’ve brought on two new staff members: an operations manager in charge of all the repairs and custom services, and a second person serving in the capacity of a marketing and sales manager. I’m trying to build a core management team so we can move forward with some new services and brands.” Anderson is optimistic about the future of the industry. “There will always be a place for the fine jeweller,” he says. “There’s only so much that we can do online; we want to still drive the consumer into the store. It can be challenging, but I think that’s where we want to be.” CJ

JOINING THE FAMILY LOVE OF JEWELLERY LURES YOUNG OWNER TO DAVIDSON’S JEWELLERS YOU MIGHT SAY THAT JEWELLERY CHOSE JOHN ANDERSON, rather

than the other way around. The new president of the long-established Davidson’s Jewellers in Ottawa says he “started when I was 16 working part-time with a jeweller, and it evolved from there.”

John Anderson Photo by Valerie Keler, Valberg Imaging

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

feature

Merry Marketing

Employing new marketing strategies during the holidays can energize your business, ignite store sales – and make selling jewellery fun again. By James S. Porte HENRY FORD, FOUNDER OF THE FORD MOTOR COMPANY, once said: “If you always do what you’ve always done, you will always get what you’ve always got.” After spending 30-plus years giving speeches, writing jewellery marketing columns, visiting retail stores far and wide, and researching countless strategies from successful jewellers, I think the above statement is very clear. While jewellery sales continue to grow on the Internet with the click of a mouse, the strength of the independent jeweller remains its standing and support in the local community, its ability to service what it sells, its product knowledge, and its ability to create a unique buying experience. Jewellers that continue to evolve and are open to new ways of doing things will thrive. Some retailers blame a weak and challenging economy for anaemic store traffic, buyer apathy and, in some cases, lower sales. Yet, as the economy stabilizes, business conditions improve and consumer sentiments rise, jewellers that do nothing must be held accountable for not participating in the business uptick. Many jewellery retailers survived the last five years buying gold jewellery from consumers and riding the bead jewellery rocket. Unfortunately,

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

retailers are now reporting a slow-down in gold buying and a levelling off in bead sales. This means jewellers will need to get back to selling diamond jewellery if they wish to survive. Moreover, the marketing strategy of hoping and praying that consumers will come into the store to buy must be replaced by an integrated and balanced marketing communication plan that includes things like direct mail, email campaigns, telemarketing, radio, social media and cross promotions. The following marketing ideas are designed to inspire, invigorate and ignite you, your sales associates, your customers and your jewellery sales during the holidays.

DO MORE BUSINESS WITH EXISTING CUSTOMERS

Whether you sell a watch battery or a pricey engagement ring, it is imperative you end the sale on a positive note. Imagine what your business might look like if you could convert more watch battery and jewellery repair sales into jewellery purchases. However, you have to have a strategy. Here are four ways you can do more business with existing customers:

01. Devise a New Way to Say “Thank You”

Sending a thank you note to a male buyer after a sale can be problematic if the gift purchased was not for his wife; sending a thank you note too soon can spoil the element of surprise for an upcoming birthday or anniversary; and sending a thank you note before a man proposes can ambush a marriage proposal. A new “Thank You” receipt holder/folder is helping jewellers thank the customer at point-of-purchase while building repeat sales with a future incentive on their next purchase. Many retailers do not make obtaining customer information such as email, birthday and anniversary data mandatory. In reality, good customer data is more valuable than inventory.

02. Give Customers a Reason to Visit

Few customers wake up in the morning thinking about going to see their local jeweller. You have to put your store on the minds of your customers and give them reasons to come to your store; that means communicating with them. The two biggest occasions for which people buy jewellery are birthdays and anniversaries, so a marketing plan that includes sending a card, an email or both can help drive customers into your store. Sorting out customers that purchased diamond jewellery a year before, saying: “It’s time to get your jewellery checked,” and including an offer and a free gift will also provide your store with a steady flow of traffic. Having these customers come back into your store provides additional selling opportunities.

03. Turn Old Inventory into Cash

The biggest problem facing jewellers is old inventory that chokes off cash flow and prevents them from investing in new products that are more saleable. A new “60 minute/60 per cent off” sale is proving to be the most successful promotion in the jewellery industry to activate inactive customers. At the same time, it helps jewellers convert tens of thousands of dollars of old inventory into cash in minutes. While many consumers are generally numb to the word ‘sale,’ the 60/60 sale verbiage creates a sense of urgency and wonderment. If a store regularly promotes discounting, the credibility of this sale will not resonate in the same way as if a store holds the reins on discounting and sales.

04. Announce the Holiday Season

While it is recommended that you build your business every day of the year rather than depend upon the Christmas season, the holidays are a time when a lot of consumers are in the mood to buy jewellery. With that said, there are generally only three ways to inform your customers of any new products, services or brands that you offer for the holidays: a telephone call; an email blast (which only five to 15 per cent of people will open); or a jewellery catalogue mailed directly to your customers’ homes. While vendor catalogues offer a seemingly low-cost paper option if you buy a certain amount of product, many jewellers are often stuck with unsold inventory that worsens their cash flow. Obviously, jewellers that can negotiate liberal exchange policies will benefit. More importantly, creating your own catalogue can present more of your store’s personality and brand, and is able to present more of what your store offers in terms of products.

TARGET AND ACQUIRE

NEW CUSTOMERS

Jewellers lose 15 per cent of their customers each year due to customers moving, no longer needing or desiring any new jewellery, job loss, competition and the Internet. If you are not adding new customers each year, you are moving backwards. Here are three ways to target and acquire new customers:

01. Market to Local Charities

The people that attend charity events normally make excellent jewellery prospects. Unfortunately, donating a piece of jewellery to a local charity doesn’t really get the attendees of a charity into your store. Many jewellers even report that some attendees who win the raffle for a donated piece come into the store to either return it or ask for the cash. Next time a committee member calls your store regarding a charity, don’t hang up. Set up a meeting and present a new way to help the charity increase raffle tickets while driving more attendees into your store.

02. Partner with Local Businesses

Even the most time-pressed jewellery store owners can attract more customers with less effort through the right cross-promotions. When you join forces with other credible people who also reach your market, you can reach your customers more efficiently, credibly and memorably. Car dealers, for instance, have become more creative and proactive in providing a better buying experience, and the dealership and salespeople love the idea of sending their customers a beautifully packaged gift certificate. Car dealers can send out jewellers’ booklets that include a gift certificate with their holiday greeting card and drive the ‘right new customers’ in the jeweller’s store. And while the millennial crowd can be seen texting, surfing and socializing on the Internet for most of the day, they still enjoy eating, drinking, living and laughing during their downtime at their local eatery. Jewellers can simply target local restaurants like sports bars (Friday night happy hour) or bistros that cater to a younger audience with a “Thank God It’s Friday” cross-promotion offer and customized folded cards at no cost to the restaurant.

03. Get Internet Testimonials

Jewellers trying to figure out how to jump on the social media bandwagon should be aware of the most successful way to build sales: customer testimonials. Talk to your customers and ask them to post a testimonial on Google. Make it so easy for them that they don’t have to do anything (since if they are older, they may not know how to write an online testimonial). Do this one thing and watch your sales soar. Jewellers can no longer just rely on a TV commercial, radio campaign or newspaper ad to get their messages out to their customers and prospects. Combining direct mail, email, social media, in-store strategies and business partnering in a balanced manner can create powerful advertising synergies. Everything you do should be measurable and easy to track since you can’t improve what you can’t measure. Whatever you do, make it fun! CJ

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

keeping time

A SIMPLE BATTERY CHANGE?

Water-resistant watches can be significantly affected by a run-of-the-mill battery change. By Kuldip Rupra IN THE LAST TWO DECADES we have seen a trend toward watches with some level of water resistance. And while simple battery changes still make up a great portion of basic watch repairs, we now complete more battery and water test combinations than ever before. A “simple battery change” is one in which the back of the watch is opened, the old battery is removed, a fresh battery is installed and the caseback is reclosed. In this method, gaskets are not assessed, crowns are not checked and water resistance is not tested. In some traditional pieces, these extra checks may not be necessary. It is important for customers to be educated on this at the time their timepieces are purchased. They should also be instructed not to operate crown or pushers when the watch is wet. Many customers are unaware of the issues, and will take their watch in for a simple battery change, only to later find out that the water resistance has been affected.

Often, the connection is not made between the watch being opened and the purpose of a gasket with water resistance. In the 1980s and 1990s, watches were worn as jewellery, for fashion and prestige rather than for rugged, day-to-day activities such as washing dishes, showering or swimming. Fewer watches were manufactured with the basic water resistance we see today. Most watches now come with a minimum water resistance of 100m-300m. Heavy duty styles (600m-1000m) require rigorous testing and care. Without proper manufacturer specific tools, watches can be damaged. The most common error we see is a crystal shattered when a caseback is closed. Rectifying this error is far more costly than if the watch had been forwarded to a professional service centre in the first place. It is important for a repair centre to house the proper equipment and parts to provide this service in a fast and efficient manner, while

maintaining manufacturer requirements. The centre should have the capability to perform a pressure- and vacuum-test to ensure water resistance. Gaskets should be assessed and changed before they are worn and allow water into the timepiece. The cost of water damage will always outweigh the cost of routine battery changes and water tests. Water-resistance is not a permanent condition – the seals, gasket, crown and glass are constantly under pressure and will deteriorate with age and the elements. If having a water-resistant watch is an important feature for a customer, the watch should be regularly serviced and tested. Routine maintenance is always the best route; regular cleaning, internal and external, provide the watch with longevity. It is always best when a customer seeks out a fully equipped workshop – to ensure the best quality and service for a beloved timepiece. CJ

WATER RESISTANCE GUIDE Water Resistant/30M: Suitable for everyday use (splash/rain resistant). Not suitable for swimming 50m/5 ATM: Suitable for light swimming (i.e., bathing in a pool, not in the ocean). Not suitable for diving 100m/10 ATM: Suitable for most water sports (i.e., swimming, surfing and snorkelling). Not recommended for diving 200m/20 ATM: Suitable for most water sports and skin diving (without oxygen). Not suitable for diving

Kuldip Rupra is a third-generation watchmaker with more than 40 years of experience. One million-plus watches have been serviced at his company, TimeRevolution.com. Kuldip is a member of the Canadian Jewellers Association and the American Watchmakers - Clockmakers Institute.

N O V E M B E R / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com..

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showcase/marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

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A D V E R T I S I N G A NEW STANDARD IN SILVER JEWELERY

AGENTS/REPS WANTED

Lotus Jewellery is seeking Reps for Canadian territories to service existing jewelry store clients and develop new accounts for our top selling brands including Kameleon Jewellery, Ice 925, Mirage, Boudicca and GemDrops. Contact our National Sales Manager- Dawn Hendsbee at info@jewelpop.com 866-431-4484.

Charles Garnier, the leader in silver jewelry is launching a higher silver content jewelry collection that will be above 95% pure silver. Be on the ground floor of this revolutionary silver collection. If you want your customers to have the best silver line, send your resume to andy@charlesgarnier. com or call 213-892-0075 ext. 103. Select Territories Available.

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MAGAZINE

NOVEMBER 2013 The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Holiday Gift Guide 2013 057.

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MAGAZINE

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THE RELATIONSHIP BUILDER

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The Official Magazine of the Canadian Jewellery Tradeshows

GOING ABOVE AND BEYOND FOR CLIENTS AT GEM BIJOU 040. countdown to our

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For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller Magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 416.203.7900 x6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

style council

Look Cool. Stay Warm. WE’RE GETTING SET FOR THE STYLISH OFFERINGS OF FALL. This season is all about bundling up to brave the chill outside, yet still looking fabulous – especially when you’re indoors. Tailored silhouettes, like structured jackets or high-waisted skirts, will add a sense of professionalism to your polished office style. When it comes to jewellery, try pairing elements of rubber and gold with chic leather skirts and studded ankle boots. Or add a tough-gal element to an otherwise feminine look with heavy metals and pavé finishes.

3. 8.

4. 6. 7.

1. ELLE Jewelry “Spears” Collection Necklace, $319 2. Vince Camuto Camo Lace Long Sleeve Blouse, $119, available at Hudson’s Bay Co. 3. Earrings in sterling silver and 14k rose gold plated CZ, $154 4. Belle Étoile Venezia Brown Bracelet in fine Italian rubber and coloured stones on rhodium-plated sterling silver, $325 5. Caravelle New York 44L136 Acetate Band Watch, $69 6. Burberry Prorsum Skirt, $3,795, available at Holt Renfrew 7. Michael Kors Linden Bubble-Stud Ankle Boot, $298, available at Holt Renfrew 8. Nova Diamonds Inc. Diamond Floral Concave Ring in 18k gold with 1.31cts of diamonds, $5,935

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

1. 3.

4. 8.

1. Swarovski Vona Pendant, ruthenium plated in a bezel setting, $125 2. Vince Camuto Pleather Sleeve Jacket, $225, available at Hudson’s Bay Co. 3. Hera Theya Earrings in 925 Silver with Mother-of-Pearl, $495 4. Pandora Essence Collection Sterling Silver Bracelet with hand-finished charms representing Courage, Wisdom and Positivity, $390 5. ELLE Time “Mini Solar” Collection White Ceramic Watch, $229 6. Two by Vince Camuto Straight Leg Jean in Sandy Grey, $115, available at Hudson’s Bay Co. 7. Valentino Studded Leather Ankle Boots, $1,495, available at Holt Renfrew 8. Zeghani ZR872 Ring in 14k white gold with 0.15cts of diamonds, $900

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM / NOVEMBER 2013

last word

by Irina Lytchak

a stately sparkler WITH EMERALD GREEN as Pantone’s 'colour of the

year' for 2013, it’s fair to say Avakian really hit the mark when it unveiled this heart-shaped necklace. Part of the world-renowned jeweller’s Haute Joaillerie collection, this piece was designed especially for the 2013 Cannes International Film Festival. The centerpiece of the necklace (the heart-shaped emerald) originated in Colombia and weighs an enormous 40cts. Adorned with 70cts of blue sapphires and 35cts of white diamonds, this treasure of a necklace is a defining piece in Avakian’s glorious jewellery collection. (Price upon request)

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 / C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

A GIFT

FOR YOU Receive an ELLE Solitaire CZ Pendant Necklace (a $79 value) with any ELLE purchase of $150* or more.

elle@paj.ca *Before tax. While supplies last. Limit 1 per customer.