Canadian Jeweller Magazine - August 2012

of r e t a ili n g j ewe ll e r y s i n c e 1879

AUGUST 2012

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PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25

Exclusive ECONOMIC FORECAST! ION

en franรงais Les meilleurs SECT

concurrents du monde

JCK

Pillars of support

Marc Laperle and Franรงois Perreault, 2012 review Gemme group PLATINUM GOES FOR GOLD PLUS: ALL THE LATEST NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

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Gold Dealer & Refining Company

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12-06-27 9:18 AM

For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 145

Behind every “They’re perfect,” there’s a great jeweller.

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And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

Every customer who walks through your door has a special desire, and our comprehensive product offering allows you to fulfill each one. Select from a broad assortment of contemporary and precious metal wedding bands, stylish fashion jewellery, quality diamond stud earrings, and custom design capabilities with CounterSketch® Studio. That’s the beauty of it all.

For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 145

Visit us at these tradeshows: JCK Toronto, August 12-14, Booth 1008 Western Canadian Jewellery Expo, August 17-19, Booths 904 and 906

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The DTC logo is a trademark used under license from DTC.

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For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 145

Š 2011 Malo, Inc. Made in Canada.

CMYK

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A M O D E R N

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C L A S S I C

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27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca Made in Canada with Canadian gold

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For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 145

The Ashley Anne Collection

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For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 145

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all precious metals and also offer:

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ESTABLISHED 1879 AUGUST 2012 • VOL. 133, NO. 5 Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Lucy Holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos Creative Business Coordinator | erin@gorgmgo.com Lynne Shuttleworth Managing Editor | lynne@gorgmgo.com EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 • vol . 132,| no .1 E. Zeynep Guler-Tuck Associate Editor erinzeynep@gorgmgo.com Joanne M. Braithwaite Web Content Editor | joanne@gorgmgo.com Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Irina Lytchak Editorial Coordinator | irina@gorgmgo.com lucy holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com Emma Nicholson Editorial Intern | intern@gorgmgo.com Carol besler Consulting Editor Scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Paul aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com

Sarah Vincett Graphic Designer

scott Jordan ArtBooth Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com Elena Viltovskaia Designer graphics@rivegauchemedia.com Stacey| Rosenblum Art Intern | artintern@gorgmgo.com stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com Frank Shoniker Vice President, Operations | frank@gorgmgo.com Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com

Melanie Seth Controller & Operations | finance@gorgmgo.com

Melanie seth ControllerHenry & Operations Fonseca| finance@rivegauchemedia.com Finance Administrator | henry@gorgmgo.com sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Veronique Dubé, Jeff Elliott, Claudia Ficca, Nikki Fotheringham, Mark Frey, Pierre Ostiguy, Duncan Parker, Lilian Raji, Agnes Roux, Bonnie Siegler, chris Davey, lorraine Martin irving, CONtRibUtORs Annick Torfs, Joe Tuck, Depasque, Todd Wasylyshyn

salEs lucy holden

John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Dean SALES sanderson, bonnie siegler.

Lucy Holden ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER TEL . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 EMAIL lucy@rivegauchemedia.com AssociAte publisher

tel .

(416) 203-7900 ext. 6117

Shane Stefurak NATIONAL email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com

ACCOUNTS & GROUP SALES MANAGER (416) 203-7900 ext. 6134 EMAIL shane@gorgmgo.com ADVertisiNG sAles TEL .

Jeff Yamaguchi

tel .

(416) 203-7900 ext. 6122

Jeffjeff@rivegauchemedia.com Yamaguchi ADVERTISING email

SALES (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 ADVertisiNG sAles EMAIL jeff@rivegauchemedia.com TEL .

Karolann Cassman

tel .

(416) 203-7900 ext. 6126

CIRCULATION email karolann@gorgmgo.com PUBLICATION PARTNERS Garth Atkinson

345 Kingston Road, Suite 101

CiRCUlatiON publicAtioN pArtNers Pickering, Ontario, L1V 1A1 Garth atkinson

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Jeweller magazine pleased to unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8. and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

CMCA AUDITED Official magazine of JVC

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CJ

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WW E Wj eE w L Le E Rl l.eC r.

OM J a n u a r y / F eCJ b r uAaUrGyU S2T0 21 01 1 2 | wW w w.. CcAaN nA DaIdA Ni aJ n com

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1-877-LILI-USA

usa@lilijewelry.com

12-06-26 5:03 PM

38

[FEATURES] AUGUST 2012 38. JCK LAS VEGAS 2012 lookback The newest collections and product lines pushed the boundaries of innovation and ingenuity

52. united they stand Members of the Gemme group benefit from networking, economies of scale and professional support

60. battle of the bands Retailers are still keeping their shelves clear of this seemingly “unattainable” metal that costs less than gold

84. Summer gem palette In keeping with the bright colours of the season, coloured gems are in the limelight

88. Quebecois creativity The Jewellery Artists of Quebec Exhibition in New York City showcased 14 designers from “La Belle Province”

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52 114 94. trade show guide See exhibitors lists and floor plans for JCK Toronto, Western Canadian Jewellery Expo and Expo Prestige

102. optimizing retail space To get the best return on your investment, you need a balance of density, comfort and aesthetics

108. unshakeable foundation Part 3 in our New Generation series: The faces of the industry are changing, and yet the core values remain the same

114. the new fashion jewellery Make room for fashion jewellery in your storage rooms and profit margins

120. Wild ride Despite economic dips and blips, the market for premium jewellery continues to catch a premium price

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-29 4:37 PM

OUR COLLECTIONS

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Cultured Freshwater Fashion | Akoya | Cultured Freshwater Premium

Suggested Retail: $299.95

Phone: 1.866.682.6823

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Email: marketing@TIGGroup.ca Web: tiggroup.ca 2012-03-13 12:06 PM 12-06-27 9:25 AM

48

126 58

[DEPARTMENTS] AUGUST 2012 18.

Letter from the editor

22.

Product Showcase

www.facebook.com/CJMag

www.twitter.com/CJMag TM

34. Who’s news 36.

cj photos

42.

for the record

48.

the cj interview: Jean-claude biver

58. reena ahluwalia Her jewellery designs owe their style to her roots in India and her experiences in Canada

126. fight back against crime!

Stand up and do your part to support the police in fighting jewellery theft

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132. Showcase/marketplace 145. Fax back 146. Last word

CJ en français: 67.

70.

74.

80.

Les nouvelles Les meilleurs concurrents du monde jck las vegas 2012 rÉtrospective a la source du profit

www.canadianjeweller.com

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July

6/11/12

2:31 PM

Page 1

Romance

®

Diamond Bridal Collection

For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 145

THE INDUSTRY’S MOST COMPREHENSIVE & PROFITABLE BRIDAL PROGRAM Lifetime Warranty • Exciting New Styles • Silver/CZ Sample Program • E-Commerce Website • Extensive Marketing Support

K

KIM ™

KIM INTERNATIONAL 800-275-5555 • sales@kimint.com

KIM Canadian Sales Professional: Marcel DuMontet 514-865-7235 or marceldumontet@videotron.ca

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12-06-26 4:54 PM

letterfromtheeditor

Risky versus safe: what’s the right balance?

Over the last couple of months, the jewellery market has seen a little drop in sales that was reflected in general retail sales across Canada.

The drop was only 0.5 per cent, compared with the period before.

Isn’t it interesting, though, that we focus on this little statistic and forget that even with that little adjustment, compared with April 2011 retail sales were 3.4 per cent higher?

This slight drop in spring/summer sales was first noticeable as early as March. While failing to see an increase in people walking out of stores carrying shopping bags may seem alarming, I personally believe, however, that this year most retailers were on the safe side with their product offerings.

SCAN ME TO GO TO OUR WEBSITE

Coming out of a tighter market and barely seeing consumer buying confidence coming back, we all went on the safe side instead of engaging consumers with unique product offerings.

I think that feeling was even prevalent in the fashion world, which just decided to bring back retro styles, hoping to make a sentimental connection with consumers.

So what balance should we take: risk in product offerings or sticking with the safe?

Olivier Felicio Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

12-06-27 11:09 AM

For details, write #110 on Free Info Page, page 145 CJ_ERL.indd 1 CJMAR2012_8282_E.R.L._Diamonds_FP.indd 15

8/23/11 12-06-26 10:44:10 4:22 AM PM

thecontributors

CLAUDIA FICCA

DUNCAN PARKER

JOE TUCK

MARK FREY

Claudia Ficca is an awardwinning editorial and commercial photographer specializing in food and lifestyle photography. She believes that great creativity often is the result of team effort and working closely with her clients.

Claudia works in Montréal, Toronto and New York City. See her photos of Marc Laperle and François Perreault on page 52 and page 70.

Duncan Parker is the vice president, jewellery specialist for Dupuis Auctioneers and is one of Canada’s leading gemologists. For the past 11 years, he’s also served as president of the Canadian Gemological Association of Canada. And he’s the president of Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. Duncan is therefore well positioned to be Canadian Jeweller’s gemology columnist. This month he shares his passion for coloured gemstones, on page 84.

In addition to Canadian Jeweller magazine, Joe Tuck is a regular print and web contributor to Lonely Planet Publications, Time Out Worldwide (multiple cities), Australian Traveller, and Travel + Leisure. He also produces and writes for fi lm and television. Most recently, in 2011 he served as coproducer on a TV mini-series, fi lmed on location in Istanbul, Turkey. Joe was recently at JCK Las Vegas shooting video footage for the Canadian Jeweller and EVER websites. He wrote this month’s product focus article on platinum, on page 60.

Mark Frey is Vice President, Payment and Risk Solutions, at Cambridge Mercantile Group. He is responsible for both the growth strategy and risk solutions product development for the fi rm. He holds a degree in economics from the University of Calgary. With these qualifications, he brings a lot of knowledge to his article on how the economy is affecting the jewellery industry, on page 120.

PAGE 84-86

PAGE 120-122

PAGE 52-56

PAGE 60-64 PAGE 70-73

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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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BU_CJ_96B175_Layout 1 6/5/12 2:56 PM Page 1

DESIGNED TO RAISE THE BAR Bulova Precisionist introduces the world’s most advanced chronograph With unmatched technical brilliance, this unprecedented timepiece features 1/1,000 second precision over a twelve hour time frame and is accurate globally to within ten seconds a year. Bulova Precisionist Chronograph:

For details, write #111 on Free Info Page, page 145

there is nothing more precise.

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CHAMPLAIN COLLECTION

www.bulova.com

12-07-03 2:07 PM

productshowcase 1

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1. Pacific Urns

fluidity as well as solidity. Retail value: $1100. Available at Best Bargains for

Pacific Urns, supplying the industry with quality urn pendants and bracelets.

$300.00. For more information, write 162 on the Free Info Card on page 145.

Each item in our collection is designed and manufactured in British Columbia and are available in sterling silver, gold and platinum. All pendants come

4. Western Canadian Jewellery Expo

with 20’’ sterling silver chain, sterling silver scoop to assist in filling your urn

For over thirty years the Western Canadian Jewellery Expo has been the

and instructions on filling and maintaining the item. Please visit us at www.

meeting ground for manufacturers and suppliers from across Canada and

pacificurns.com to see the full collection or contact us at (888) 832-1195. For

the USA, and jewellery retailers from the four western Canadian provinces

more information, write 160 on the Free Info Card on page 145.

and the Northwest Territories. This diverse group of manufacturers and suppliers come to the WCJE every year to showcase the very best and

2. BCOUTURE

latest trends, packaging materials, equipment and technology for the

These 14K blue topaz white gold earrings will fit your everyday life with their

jewellery industry. Shaw Conference Centre - Halls B & C, Edmonton Alberta.

beautiful yet simple design. Affordably priced to keep for yourself or to treat

August 17th, 18th & 19th 2012 Ph: 780 467 9549 Fax: 780 464 3349 inquiry@

someone you love! MSRP $265.00. For more information, write 161 on the

wcjexpo.com. For more information, write 163 on the Free Info Card on page 145.

Free Info Card on page 145.

5. Bfly 3. Best Bargains

This collection is for every Miss Flower on Earth. Nature’s beauty in the

These gorgeous and whimsical multicoloured 14kt gold sapphire earrings

flower has been captured in a unique silver jewelry collection in five sparkling

are the perfect hues for fall - crisp green and luscious, earthy orange. The

symbolic colors. Be Natural, be yourself and follow your inspiration... BFLY.

intricate chain detailing is bordered by two gold bars, giving the feeling of

For more information, write 164 on the Free Info Card on page 145.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 1:12 PM

The new Jewels by Anita Fall Collection is Here!

For details, write #112 on Free Info Page, page 145

Visit our booths at JCK Toronto, WCJE Edmonton & Expo Prestige, Montreal.

Toronto designer, Anita Agrawal, has been in the jewellery industry for over the past twenty years and recently launched her well received jewellery line just last year. Anita, designs with the goal of making wearable fine gold, silver and gemstone jewellery that is affordable and can be transitioned from day to evening wear. All Jewels by Anita products are available at fine jewellery stores across North America. All products are handmade in Canada and are customizable.

For more information and a price list, contact Anita at anita@bbjw.com

www.bbjw.com

1-800-661-4871

21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Canada

T: 416-214-2582 F: 416-214-4626

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Best Bargains

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productshowcase

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1

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1. ELLE JEWELRY COLLECTIONS

style and taste of future brides. To see the full collection and our wedding

This Fall, indulge yourself with ELLE Jewelry’s “Perimeter” Collection,

bands, visit midasjewelryinc.ca. For more information, write 167 on the Free

featuring the rich colours of black and red agate. This collection focuses

Info Card on page 145.

on the natural beauty of the agate stone with faceted texture accented with curb chain details, perfect for the warm colours of the season. Collection

4. LILI JEwelry

includes a variety of styles in bracelet, pendant, earrings and rings. For more

This 7.20ct Orchidea® ring, resembling the magnificent Orchid, features a

information, write 165 on the Free Info Card on page 145.

gently pointed tip at the end of each luminescent petal. This breathtaking shape is built of 61 facets, perfectly aligned to create brilliance and fire.. For

2.Malo

more information, write 168 on the Free Info Card on page 145.

Today, we, the third generation of MALO jewelers, continue our family tradition of embracing quality and beauty in every step of the creation of

5. GIA 4Cs App – Retailer Edition for iPad

our products. In platinum or in yellow, white or pink gold, with diamonds

GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers

or without, in any number of fabulous finishes; your client’s dreams come

in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used

true with MALO. For more information, write 166 on the Free Info Card on

at point of sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate

page 145.

customers about how GIA grades colour, clarity, cut and carat weight and how grades affect a diamond’s value. The app also explains the origins

3. Midas

of the carat system, provides information about fluorescence, diamond

Introducing the Ashley Anne Collection from Midas Jewelry. We now offer

treatments and synthetics, and features direct access to GIA Report Check

engagement rings and matching bands in addition to our vast selection

– GIA’s online database of GIA reports, where contents of a GIA report can

of wedding rings. This collection of bridal sets will please even the most

be viewed and verified directly from the iPad. For more information, write

discerning bride-to-be. Each set is exclusively designed to fit the personality,

169 on the Free Info Card on page 145.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 1:13 PM

“I

SHE DESERVES

“

DESIGNED IT WITH THE ATTENTION TO DETAILS YOU KNOW

GIOVANNI VACCARO

Visit us @ Toronto Booth # 1015, Edmonton # 105, Montreal # 527

Toll Free Tel: 1 866 812-7436 Distributed by:

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productshowcase

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1. LOTUS

their jewellery safe and sparkling. Makes a great leave-behind! It’s also

Gemdrops . . . the newest line being distributed in Canada by Lotus Jewellery.

downloadable for websites. For requests, call 800-558-6411, ext. 2118. For

Swarovski Crystals and Pearls, natural stones, lots of colour and sparkle,

more information, write 172 on the Free Info Card on page 145.

all combined together with sterling silver to create a fabulous new look guaranteed to turn heads. By mixing and matching pendants and bales,

4. PRESTIGE & FANCY

consumers are able to come up with a look that is all their own . . . and keep

Self-Wrapping Box. Box, sleeve and ribbon all in one. Our self-wrapping box

coming back for more. Contact: 877-593-0922 or lotusorders@eastlink.ca.

presents an attractive jewellery gift pack that is especially efficient at POS.

For more information, write 170 on the Free Info Card on page 145.

The box comes in 4 lustrous colours featuring an elegant textured wavy finish. It is available in 7 formats and various sizes for ring, earing, pendant,

2. SEQUEL CANADA

bracelet and necklace. For more information, write 173 on the Free Info Card

The XXL Blackout meets the highest standards with precision Swiss Made

on page 145.

movement; a quartz chronograph with a 30-minutes and 60-second counter precise to 1/10 second. A unidirectional turning bezel, scratch-resistant

5. INTRODUCING KIM’S ROMANCE® BRIDAL COLLECTION

sapphire crystal and a water resistance of 100 meters, assured by the screw

Kim International’s Romance® Bridal Collection features 18kt gold and

down crown and screw-down engraved case back. For more information,

diamond bridal designs crafted with impeccable quality and styling.

write 171on the Free Info Card on page 145.

Romance® is backed with a CZ sample program, lifetime warranty, extensive marketing package and E-Commerce website. For information on our

3. JEWELERS MUTUAL

comprehensive and profitable bridal program, contact Marcel DuMontet at

Pearls of Wisdom jewellery care brochure: Jewelers Mutual Insurance

514-865-7235 or marceldumontet@videotron.ca. For more information, write

Company offers this free brochure featuring tips to help customers keep

174 on the Free Info Card on page 145.

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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

12-06-27 1:14 PM

For details, write #114 on Free Info Page, page 145

Email: info@dimples.me website: www.dimples.me

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Call: 905-852-2050 Uxbridge, Ontario, Canada

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productshowcase 1

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1. How can we help you? Stuller’s Toronto Service Center

charm collectors. Displays feature inventory control, removable trays and a

Stuller’s Toronto Service Center is centrally located to serve you, our valued

vast selection all in less than three square feet. Wall panels, freestanding towers

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and countertop displays are available in cherry, walnut, and maple.Please visit

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POLICE is about personality, individuality and being “YOUNIQUE”. It is a brand that stands for going against the grain and offering opposing views. “Avenger”

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comes with 3 hands, 45mm x 36mm S.S. case/crown, black 2-layered leather

Nova Diamonds is delighted to offer a large variety of coloured diamond

strap with SS studs, WR 10 ATM. The movement is a Japanese Miyota 2035

bangles. The month of June is showcasing Nova’s 18-karat multi-dome design

and carries a 5-yr Cdn warranty. Other colours are available. M.S.R.P. $ 199.

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well as over a carat of white diamonds. For more information on Nova’s bangle collection, contact Nova Diamonds at (416) 868-8862. For more information,

5. BCOUTURE

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The ageless, delicate 14K, Rose Gold pink quartz and pink amethyst bracelet exudes romance. A piece so elegant it captures the heart of everyone who

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Imperial Color Diamonds provides an impressive selection of fine jewellery from one of a kind pink diamond rings to amazing graduated yellow

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who’snews

PEOPLE MAKING HEADLINES IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

includes the Diamonds by the Yard collection and teardrop necklaces. Peretti is interested in retiring and possibly selling her intellectual property to Tiffany. If no deal is reached, the Tiffany license may be terminated, and Tiffany may lose the right to sell Peretti’s designs.

president of the American Watch Association and serving as a member of the 24 Karat Club of New York City. Born in France, he was also a philanthropist involved with charities, including EARTH University Foundation and Piedmont Hospital Foundation. New York’s St. Patrick’s Cathedral held a mass on May 7.

New marketing officer at Blue Nile Alber t J.

Lavinska s

Albert J. Lavinskas passes away The friends and family of the late Albert J. Lavinskas, former president of Alpha Jeweller’s Supplies in Montreal, Qubec, would like to publicly remember him and shed light on the disease that took the life of their loved one far too soon. Lavinskas passed away of lung cancer in December of last year at the age of 60.

Lavinskas gave four decades of dedicated service to the family business established in 1935. To improve the quality of life for current and future patients living with lung disease, the family has established the following memorial fund: The Albert J. Lavinskas Memorial Fund Peter Brojde Center for Lung Cancer Jewish General Hospital - Segal Cancer Ctr 3755 Cote Ste. Catherine Rd. Montreal, Quebec H3T 1E2

Online diamond and jewellery retailer Blue Nile has named Engle Saez as the new marketing officer. Saez’s resume includes Coinstar, Sperry Top-Sider and Starbucks, experiences that chief executive officer Harvey Kanter believes “will be key in helping Blue Nile continue to evolve and grow.”

Farewell to noted diamantaire Jacques Roisen Renowned diamantaire Jacques Roisen passed away May 26 at the age of 91. The former head of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association, Roisen started his career in the jewellery industry by joining his father-in-law’s diamond business after serving as a member of the U.S. Army. A funeral service was held May 29 at Riverside Chapel in New York. Memorial donations may be made to the UJA-Federation or ORT America. Roisen is survived by his wife of 67 years, Alice, two children and four grandchildren.

Tiffany and Co. announces new senior vice president Tiffany and Co. named Andrew W. Hart as its new senior vice president of diamonds and gemstones. Hart has served as vice president of diamonds and gemstones since 2002, and has been with Tiffany and Co. since 1999. Chairman and chief executive officer, Michael J. Kowalski, said, “As we expand our business around the globe, the supply of high-quality diamonds and gemstones is of strategic importance to our success, and Andy will continue to play an important role in leading our efforts.” [CJ]

Martin Thomas Gatins passes away Tiffany may lose Elsa Peretti Tiffany and Co. may lose the license to distribute and use Elsa Peretti, whose designs account for 10 per cent of Tiffany’s net sales. This

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Martin Thomas Gatins, senior vice president of Cartier North America, passed away May 4 after battling leukemia. Gatins became part of Cartier North America in 1996 after working as the

Andrew W. Har

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For details, write #118 on Free Info Page, page 145

The Heart & Soul of Wedding Bands JCK Toronto Aug. 12-14 booth # 931 WCJE Edmonton Aug. 17-19 booth # 409 Expo Prestige Montreal Aug 26-28 #415 www.atlanticengraving.com

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cjphotos

Cartier celebrates opening of new Toronto store EVENT PHOTOGRAPHY BY STACEY ROSENBLUM

To celebrate the opening of its new store in the Yorkdale mall in Toronto, Cartier threw a cocktail reception at the end of May. The celebration launched the elegant new Juste un Clou collection of bracelets and rings. Emmanuel Perrin, President and CEO, Cartier North America, and Catherine Town, Regional Director, Cartier Canada, both said the new Yorkdale store is doing really well. This is the third Cartier store in Canada—the others are located in downtown Toronto and Vancouver. – Lynne Shuttleworth

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1. Lynne Shuttleworth (L) with Mercedes Abramo, Vice President of Retail, Cartier, and Shane Stefurak 2. Juste un Clou gold bracelets 3. Emmanuel Perrin and Catherine Town 4. Juste un Clou white gold earrings 5. Ryan Kenny, Assistant Manager, Cartier Yorkdale, and Marie Marlo 6. Guests line up outside the new store

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Breitling 2012 Navigator Cosmanaute debuts at La Swiss Toronto PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN BOOTH

To mark the 50th anniversary of Breitling’s Navitimer Cosmonaute, La Swiss, one of the official Canadian dealers of Breitling watches, hosted a night of nostalgia with the unveiling of a 2012 limited edition watch. The watch stood in a glass case wrapped in a shiny yellow bow until the unveiling ceremony, which featured a speech by Steve Nichols on space exploration and Breitling’s commitment to human adventure. – E.Z. Guler-Tuck

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5 1. Matthew Alexander, Colour Innovations with Navaree Bailey, La Swiss and Olivier Felicio 2. Steve Nichols, Canadian Aviation Expo, Mary Nichols and John Green 3. Marc Ianculesu, La Swiss, with Joe Tadeo 4. Liliana Sutanz, Breitling Canada, with John Green 5. Thomas Boyd, La Swiss, with Liliana Sutanz 6. Steve Nichols, with Desmond W. Lightbody

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jckreview

JCK Las Vegas 2012 review

The newest collections and product lines pushed the boundaries of innovation and ingenuity

By E.Z. Guler-Tuck

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iva all things colourful, bright and shiny— especially Las Vegas! The opening of the LUXURY booths on May 29 kicked off this year’s JCK Las Vegas Show, and all the watch and jewellery brands were out strutting their stuff.

This year’s show saw the newest collections and product lines from more than 2,500 eager exhibitors that pushed the boundaries of innovation and ingenuity in jewellery and watch design. The record-breaking 21 per cent increase in show attendance was evidence that through economic ups and downs, luxury has prevailed.

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Ambassadors

In addition to Pamela Anderson and Brooke Burke, Canadian Natalie Glebova—former Miss Universe—joined the roster of celebrity brand ambassadors, as she represented Canadian Ice diamonds with style and class.

A legacy

Bringing Armenian jewellers from all around the world together, the Armenian Jewellers Association (AJA), with a strong Canadian constituent, continued a tradition of their own, with an

For exclusive video coverage of JCK Las Vegas 2012, visit canadianjeweller.com

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1. Emanuela Duca Magma Pearl Ring 2. Brent Trepel of Ben Moss Jewellers, Natalie Glebova, Canadian Ice Diamond brand ambassador and Joseph Shilon of JSN in the JSN-Ever cabana at JCK Rocks the Beach party 3. Floating Canadian Diamond pendant and earrings by JSN Jewellery

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jckreview

Armenian pavilion at JCK for the second year in a row, and their 5th annual cocktail reception.

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Material girl

While retailers swear by “location, location, location,” the fearless designers at this year’s JCK propagated “material, material, material.” A rave of rhodium plating and the incorporation of a selection of nature-inspired motifs such as shells, animal prints, bamboo and feathers, as well as Italian rubber, bakelite (an early form of plastic) and blackened sterling silver—were prevalent.

“During the process of creating my latest collections, I wanted to feel connected with something that was earth-bound, and evocative of volcanic ash and lava solidification, as well as the ancient ruins of my native Rome.

The blackened sterling silver inspired that connection for me,” says Emanuela Duca, designer of Emanuela Duca New York.

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One-of-a-kind handcrafted mixtures of materials broke down taboos in jewellerymaking, where steel mingled with silver, whites mingled with rose gold, and precious gemstones were thrown in for colour and spice.

In addition to materials, texture also played a starring role in design this year. The sleek, smooth feel of jewellery, and especially watches, was replaced by three-dimensional, faceted surfaces, a highlight of one of PANDORA’s new collections.

Colour me yellow

Speaking of colour, this year’s show was definitely colour-coded, flaunting a kaleidoscope of precious gemstones from all around the world, set into a luxurious load of gold, silver and even steel collections.

1. Belle Étoile Enamel Collection bracelet 2. Pencil earrings by Costis 3. Pamela Anderson, brand ambassador for Palladium Alliance International 4. Ivanka Trump Lao Tong cuff 5. Nada G Aya rings by Sobhan Allah with 18k gold and black diamonds

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jckreview

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In addition to topaz, garnet, amethyst, peridot and tourmaline, it was yellow gemstones that stole the show. Especially in diamonds, yellow stood out as the colour of the year.

Yellow was also prevalent in gold, evidence that regardless of price, the sense of security attached to this trusted precious metal will outlast the market fluctuations and resonate with the industry in a big way.

Watch it

While the watch trend continued to boast the “bigger is better” theme, some women’s collections reverted back to simpler and subtler, yet powerful statement pieces.

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“The Linea collection is the perfect balance of style and femininity, with its delicate silhouette that hugs the wrist, to the interchangeable straps which allow for a true fashion statement,” says Michelle Peranteau, Director of Marketing & Communications at Baume & Mercier.

Innovation in watch design was best demonstrated on the show floor with a mishmash of vintage to classic, bullet-proof to digital, all differentiating their brands in unique ways.

“We think there’s the potential to take ‘touch and display’ technology and combine it into, not a smart watch, but a smarter digital watch,” says Donald Brewer, President of Phosphor watches.

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To demonstrate their prowess in the global jewellery market, China (specifically Hong Kong), India and Brazil dazzled visitors with their own four C’s: colour, craftsmanship, creativity and culture.

1. Phosphor watch 2. Design director for Kabana, Sophia H. Eleftheriou 3. Morganite and diamond earrings from Yael Designs Lyra Collection 4. Sunny Yellow Diamonds Color Engagements

by Le Vian 5. Paul & Joe Collection necklace by Groupe GL 6. Canadian Jeweller video production with Roxanne Dixon of Nouvo Mode and Mary Prescop of Belle Étoile

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jckreview

Hong Kong’s fancy banner directed showgoers to the rows upon rows of stone-studded booths all representing eclectic designs from one of China’s most fiscally superior regions.

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A festival of jewellery was displayed in the India Gallery and a special “by invitation only” evening with traditional folk dances and a fashion show was held. “[India has become] the force behind the very top end. We come up with some of the most trend-setting and sought after designs today,” explains Raksha Manihar of The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council of India.

Brazil proudly served up precious creations abounding with coloured gemstones, delicious food and, of course, a tropical feel completely unique to the region.

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Old and new

Rather than reinventing the wheel, New York-based Le Vian recreated a vintage bridal collection in an irresistable campaign inspired by chocolate and diamonds.

“One of the biggest trends we’re seeing is that women, when they get married, want to get married with an engagement ring that’s different than what other women have. So, we are forecasting the Chocolate Wedding as the big trend in fine jewellery,” explains Eddie Le Vian, CEO, Director and Designer for Le Vian.

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The last word

When the final day of the show rolled around, after all the hands had been shaken, booths visited and parties attended, the strong relationships that were nurtured, new ones built and the promise of many more great stories to appear within these pages made this year’s JCK Las Vegas one for the books. [CJ] 1. Vianna Gotas de Orvalho bracelet 2. Baume & Mercier Linea Collection watch 3. Mark Schneider black and white rings 4. (Left) John White, President, North America for PANDORA Jewelry and Björn Gulden, CEO of PANDORA Jewelry 5. PANDORA sterling silver bracelet with purple faceted Murano glass charms www.canadianjeweller.com

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news | trends | events Canadians awarded at Cannes Canadian actresses Sarah Gadon and Emily Hampshire were awarded the inaugural Birks Canadian Diamond trophy during the Cannes Film Festival. The award acknowledges upand-coming Canadian talent with international influence and was presented May 23 at Telefilm Canada’s first Tribute To Canadian Talent event.

Birks’ proprietary diamond cut, THE BIRKS AMORIQUE DIAMOND®, is featured on the trophy. Toronto’s Sarah Gadon starred in two movies selected for the Cannes: Cosmopolis with Robert Pattinson and Antiviral directed

by Brandon Cronenberg. Montreal-native Emily Hampshire also appeared in Cosmopolis as well as Laurence Anyways.

From left to right: Inspector Colleen Fawcett, Detective Joe Varone, Constable Earl Scott, Constable Chad Lines, Crime analyst Bonnie Sliwinski, Constable Adrian Pannozzo, Constable Chris Salmon

JVC presents award to Peel Regional Police Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) has presented officers from the Peel Regional Police with JVC’s Law Enforcement Award of Merit. Inspector Colleen Fawcett and her team were recognized for their hard work and dedication to a project known as “Gold Rush.”

In March 2010, a Mississauga jewellery store was robbed by several masked men armed with handguns. In January 2011, this same group robbed another jewellery store in the Mississauga Heartland Mall. In both cases, costly amounts of jewellery pieces and items were stolen. Investigators attentively worked over a three-month period gaining valuable evidence on the case. The persistent effort of the officers lead to the eventual arrest of several individuals and recovery of the stolen goods.

Hublot dedicates watch to Usain Bolt Hublot has released a 250-unit series of King Power Usain Bolt watches. The design incorporates symbols representative of the world’s fastest man. A silhouette of Bolt’s signature pose is featured at 9:00 in an anthracite grey transfer on a black background.

Green is visible in the 12-hour chronograph at 6:00 to honor his native Jamaica, and stitched around Hublot’s signature rubber strap is the same gold-coloured leather found on the running shoes that Bolt wore to break world records at the 2008 Beijing Olympics. The watch features 27 jewels and satin-finished black, nickel-coated hands.

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From left to right: Actress Emily Hampshire, President and CEO of Birks, Jean-Christophe Bedos and actress Sarah Gadon

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fortherecord

JewelPop Inc. ranks fifth as fastest growing Canadian company JewelPop Inc., the creator of the Kameleon Jewelry line, has been awarded fifth place by the 24th Annual PROFIT 200 ranking of Canada’s Fastest-Growing Companies by PROFIT Magazine.

Based out of Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, JewelPops Inc. showcased its stunning products at this year’s JCK Las Vegas show. PROFIT 200 profiles the country’s most successful growth companies based on a five-year revenue increase, and is the largest annual celebration of entrepreneurial achievement in Canada.

PANDORA opens at Square One Mississauga PANDORA has unveiled a new store in Mississauga’s Square One shopping mall, with official grand opening celebrations taking place in June. PANDORA jewellery is sold in more than 65 countries on six continents, and in 317 stores in Canada. Other recent PANDORA openings include Kingsway Mall in Edmonton, Les Promenade St-Bruno in Saint Bruno, Metrotown Mall in Burnaby, PANDORA Shops at Don Mills and The Promenade in Thornhill.

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Pearl terminology discussed CIBJO Pearl Commission president Kenneth Scarratt, initiated a meeting to discuss unambiguous terminology for the word “pearl.”

CIBJO and industry members met in September at the Hong Kong Gem and Jewellery Fair to discuss nomenclature surrounding natural and cultural pearls. The decision regarding the terminology will be printed in the newest version of the CIBJO Pearl Book.

OWL launched private lending business OWL Financial Group LCC has launched a private lending business in the diamond and jewellery industries. Store inventory will serve as collateral, allowing short-term, cash loans without a personal guarantee or credit check.

Both short and large cash loans are available for industry members to finance buying opportunities. Business will be discrete and run out of secure New York offices. www.canadianjeweller.com

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fortherecord

Hublot partners with Alinghi Hublot released a limited edition watch to commemorate its renewed 2012 collaboration with Alinghi.

The watchmaker will partner with the Swiss sailing team on two monotype series boats this season.

Ernesto Bertarelli and Jean-Claude Biver, founder of Alinghi and former CEO of Hublot respectively, released the watch after the Société Nautique de Genève regattas. Hubot’s Swiss made King Power MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 6:09 PM Page 1 Alinghi 4000 dive watch is made from carbon, and has a depth rating of 4000 metres.

Susan Cartwright wins Hero of the Year Award

Susan Cartwright wins Hero of the Year Award Susan Cartwright of Cartwright Jewelers won the Hero of the Year Award from Trollbeads International at JCK Las Vegas 2012. After an all-day Trollbeads International seminar, Susan and her husband attended a black tie Gala hosted

by Trollbeads. From three finalists in Canada, Cartwright Jewelers proudly received the award judged on performance, creativity in advertising, special promotions and enthusiasm for the Trollbeads product.

Kimberley Process meeting discusses conflict diamond definition

MCD Pearl Imports A selection of pearl strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery 27 Queen St. E, Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6 T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368-2426 Email info@mcdpearls.com

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The Kimberley Process discussed broadening the definition of conflict diamonds at its intercessional meeting in Washington D.C. this June. Chairperson of the Kimberley Process, Gillian Milovanovic, said the meeting was “positive” and accomplished a lot of work.

Chairperson of the World Diamond Council, Eli Izahkoff, recognized Milovanovic for bringing parties together to discuss different opinions in a “cooperative spirit.” There was no final definition determined; however, the definition that will be built upon is: “rough diamonds used to finance or otherwise directly related to armed conflict or other situations of violence.” The plenary meeting will discuss the definition further in November.

www.canadianjeweller.com

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Jeweller’s Survival Guide Security Guide for Retail Jewellery Businesses

Not only insurance… security assessments Jewellers Vigilance Canada Crime Package membership online security education courses

Jeweler’s Cut rewards program Jewellers Newsletter

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CJ72012

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fortherecord Nouvo Mode to distribute Belle Étoile Nouvo Mode will be the official distributor of Belle Étoile in Canada. As a sales and marketing agency, Nouvo Mode plans to help the growth of the jewellery brand in the Canadian market.

Belle Étoile’s jewellery is recognized for its trendy, high quality and marketable designs. Jim Grohn, president of Belle Étoile, is excited about the partnership: “Nouvo Mode’s experience and expertise will serve Belle Étoile and help distribute the brand internationally.”

Sheryl Crow performs at Tag Heuer watch party

WCJE opens in August

Sheryl Crow gave an exciting performance for the Tag Heuer watch party during JCK Las Vegas 2012. The show took place at the Mix lounge at Mandalay Bay. As a brand ambassador, Crow doesn’t just wear her watch for the paycheque.

Her Tag Heuer watch helps her keep track of time, since she promised she would turn off her cell phone, and therefore its clock, around her kids.

The Western Canadian Jewellery Expo (WCJE) will open its doors August 17 at the Shaw Conference Centre in Edmonton, Alberta. The Opening Night Welcome Gathering, sponsored

by Elle Jewellery/Paj Canada, will kick off the weekend. This year’s new Lunch ‘n’ Learn seminars will provide insightful education.

Highlights will include the Elle Jewellery Photo Booth, Design Centre, Crack the Safe, Win the Vault and new product presentation area. Each morning will start with a complimentary coffee and juice bar, and each afternoon will feature wine tasting.

Society of North American Goldsmiths launches business symposium

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Victorinox Swiss Army store opens in Toronto The first Victorinox Swiss Army store opened in Canada this May. Located at 95A Bloor Street West in Toronto, the store contains the brand’s largest selection of timepieces. Since its creation in 1884, the company has prided itself on handcraftsmanship, quality and functionality, using only first-class steel and top-quality control.

Victorinox Swiss Army is also dedicated to the environment, ensuring its headquarters follow green initiatives, including eco-friendly shipping materials and workstations made of recycled fibres. [CJ]

The Society of North American Goldsmiths (SNAG) is launching a business symposium for independent jewellers and goldsmiths titled Forging Entrepreneurs: Tools and Skills For Business Success. Eight successful artists will present ways to increase productivity and improve bottom line. The event costs $125 to attend and will take place in Pittsburg on August 26, 2012.

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Dealers in Precious Metals and Stones (DPMS) sector as a result of the many challenges and difficulties this sector’s regulations have caused for many retail and wholesale industry members.

In a presentation with the Senate Committee, CJA CEO David Ritter, JVC executive director Phyllis Richard and C.D. Barcados Ltd president Alex Barcados, made compelling arguments to review the current regime. One of the proposed recommendations stated that no further amendments be applied to the DPMS sector pending FINTRAC’s assessment of the industry’s compliance to the existing regulations.

CJA and JVC join forces to protect jewelers The Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) and Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) have partnered to approach the Senate Committee on Banking, Trade and Commerce on their five year review of Canada’s Proceeds of Crime (Money Laundering) and Terrorist Financing Regime (Anti-Money Laundering- AML regulations). The CJA and JVC have generated a list of recommendations specifically for the

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-26 3:12 PM

For details, write #120 on Free Info Page, page 145

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12-06-27 9:15 AM

cjinterview

Making the right choices Hublot’s chairman, Jean-Claude Biver, divulges the secrets about the new patent for the brand’s scratch-resistant gold watches by e.z. guler tuck

building exclusivity can be summed up in a few words: “Be the first, be different, be unique, but one should never forget that no innovation means no future; no substance means no future, and finally, last but not least: have only the best people around you.”

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n the aftermath of Baselworld 2012, JeanClaude Biver, former CEO of the Swiss watch brand Hublot, seemed confident that the challenges that resulted in constant innovation would help the brand excel in the future.

While other watchmakers have often fretted about making the right choice for each of their celebrity ambassadors, Hublot’s advantage was having the entire Ferrari brand at its disposal as an ambassador.

This year has already given Hublot the boost it needed to surpass expectations in the industry.

After partnering with Ferrari, in March, the two companies launched The Big Bang Ferrari watch, in titanium and Magic Gold—an 18k gold and ceramic alloy that boasts high resistance to scratches.

“We said we wanted to be partners with Ferrari’s old cars, Ferrari’s regular cars, Ferrari’s racing cars, its garage, its clubs—that is a global partnership. [So] we were able to make a special Hublot Ferrari watch. Ferrari is our ambassador,” explains Biver.

“We have a 25-year patent that allows us to make gold [in-lay watches] and eliminate one or two of the weaknesses of gold,” says Biver. “One of the weaknesses of gold is that it scratches [easily].

That’s why people are always careful when they own a gold watch. And we found that ‘magical’ gold that cannot scratch.”

Biver has been at the helm of Hublot since his appointment as CEO and board member in 2004. This past January, after growing the brand to record-breaking heights in 2011 with a 22-24 per cent increase in sales, Biver stepped down from the CEO throne. He remains the Hublot spokesperson, chairman of the board and valued contributor to the company’s product development and business strategies.

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Transparency

The movement is the backbone of every watch, providing the essence of what makes each timepiece so unique. Hublot’s collections are renowned for their transparent-looking styles that reveal the inner workings of the movements.

“We will have more and more innovation in movements. People have two to three watches, they have nice dials and three hands, but they want something more. They want to maybe see an etching of a car. So we will have transparent watches where you have no dial, where you immediately see the etching,” explains Biver.

Vision and prowess

Finally, his future casting also confirms the “bigger is better” trend that has been dominating the watch market lately. “I think watches will remain big. The watch is also becoming a communicating instrument. It tells you who I am; am I rich, am I arrogant, am I an elegant man, am I a sporty man?

The watch must communicate who you are.”

The Hublot brand has benefitted from Biver’s vision and prowess, especially as he strived to build the exclusivity of the brand. Biver is headover-heels for the Hublot brand, and believes that

Biver’s strong commitment to Hublot designs and to the art of watchmaking will, without a doubt, continue to fuel his activities in the industry. [CJ]

The best engine

Not only is the watch distinguished for the materials used, it also sports a UNICO movement that Hublot compares to the best possible engine to power a race car, oscillating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and featuring a 72-hour power reserve.

When asked about future trends in the watch business, Biver is more than enthusiastic about the evolution of the industry: “New materials will become more and more popular. For centuries we had gold, platinum and steel—only three materials in watches! Now, suddenly, it starts, people are introducing other materials. We have introduced carbon, magnesium, we have introduced Kevlar, ceramic, so new materials are coming.”

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coverstory | gemmegroup

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Members of the Gemme group benefit from networking, economies of scale and professional support

By Pierre Ostiguy Photography by Claudia Ficca

TAND

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Franรงois Perreault and Marc Laperle

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coverstory | gemmegroup

Marc Laperle at Bijouterie Gerald Perreault

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embers of the Gemme group are 32 jewellers and store owners, from seven regions of southern Quebec and two cities outside of Quebec (Kingston, Ontario, and Moncton, New Brunswick), operating in their own exclusive territories. Although potentially competing with each other, for 40 years they’ve been members of a group that makes them the best competitors in the world.

“We work first and foremost for our members who are also, largely, our shareholders,” says Marc Laperle, CEO. “Everyone eventually benefits.

Suppliers get a fair deal and so do consumers.”

Being part of Gemme is not for everyone. On the one hand, jewellers should be independent professionals—jewellers, gemologists, goldsmiths or watchmakers. They must also have a storefront and provide on-site after-sales

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service such as maintenance and repair. Finally, they must have demonstrated professionalism, competency and integrity for a number of years.

As for suppliers, they must demonstrate business ethics and service quality.

Then Gemme gives free rein to market forces, with the certainty that suppliers will be as successful as their ability to deliver products that appeal to jewellers and customers.

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-26 1:31 PM

gemmegroup | coverstory

A smaller market

A few years ago, the jewellery and watch market shrank due to the worldwide economic slowdown. Combining their marketing efforts, Gemme members where able to successfully react to this slower consumer demand period. Still, the economic crisis has had a domino effect on retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers. “Players today are fewer,” says Laperle.

François Perreault, owner of a jewellery store in Joliette (50 km northeast of Montreal) and president of Gemme adds: “In addition, we must all adapt to new ways to shop. A potential buyer who walks into my store, in general, looked online and has a good idea of what is available, and of the prices.”

Gemme offers many benefits to merchant members. For example, suppliers are committed to offering Gemme jewellers the lowest prices and the best discounts. The agreements include clauses on adjustments and strict penalties.

In exchange, each member places orders only with contracted suppliers, yet remains free to choose which ones they will deal with. Up from 41 suppliers in 2005, they now can choose from 104. If Gemme is constantly negotiating agreements for its members to include new collections and new items, no one plays the role of intermediary. Everything happens between the jeweller and the supplier, according to the conditions of the agreements.

“The jewellers constantly need to be noticed, to promote the benefits of their products to consumers so they will walk into their store. Once again, the

strength of association allows economies of scale by spreading the cost of advertising campaigns among all members or those of a region, in particular,” says Laperle.

Online presence

About a year ago, Gemme launched a modernized and expanded version of its website and Facebook page. “We believe that this site is the most complete and that it is the ultimate reference for consumers,” Perreault says.

“This site also has the unique ability to transform itself into the jeweller’s own site once identified by geographic location.

It seems, indeed, that the ambition of the group has led to a site that not only is a collective showcase of items in stock; it also educates consumers about unknown aspects of trade in stones, jewellery and watches. The visitor who lingers on these pages emerges a more informed customer, better able to make wise buying decisions.

However, Gemme has chosen not to allow online purchase from this site. It is for the consumer to go to the merchant of their choice or to contact the store, to express their choice and complete the transaction. Far from being an obstacle, the lack of online sales leads buyers to stores.

For four years, Gemme also advertised on digital screens in half of its jewellery stores. This resulted in some success in regard to income and store sales. www.canadianjeweller.com

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coverstory | gemmegroup

Member benefits

Training is a must

Gemme is always looking for tools and methods that will enable its members to become more profitable. For example, it reviews and recommends software and computer-based tools that better serve jewellery store owners.

It maintains electronic communication services allowing everyone to be informed simultaneously of what may be a concern, both within the network and in the world of jewellery in general.

In jewellery as in many other areas, training is a must. Gemme sets up skilltraining workshops, and training in management and marketing to help its members improve their profitability. In addition to the classes, members can receive advice from experts in such fields as marketing, taxation and business performance evaluation methods.

One for all and all for one

The network also allows the exchange of items. Perreault explains: “Jewellers’ money is tied up in their in-store collection. To maximize their investment and the control of their supply, they order items their customers are looking for. However, sometimes a customer will ask for a piece of jewellery or a watch that is not part of what a jeweller has in store. A member of Gemme will not lose the sale. Gemme allows the merchant to call on colleagues with this jewellery or watch in stock and respond to the customer’s requirements within a day or two.”

In addition to taking advantage of discounts allowed by the group purchasing power, the Gemme jewellers enjoy a wide range of benefits, including a variety of discounted rates.

For instance, Canada Post charges special rates for the delivery of promotional brochures and packages by Express Post. Gemme can also offer customers an immediate, on-the-spot credit, thanks to Desjardins Access D. Right now, Gemme management is looking into offering collective insurance plans to members, their employees and their families.

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Gemme jewellers are unique for their solidarity. Not only do they meet at conferences and annual meetings; they also help each other out during hard times.

To illustrate, Laperle tells this anecdote: “A few years ago, one of our members had the misfortune to be burgled a few weeks before Christmas. The robbers opened his safe and took all the contents. When he arrived in the morning, the jeweller had nothing to sell, and seemed doomed to wait several days for its replenishment at a critical period of the year. Without his request, once informed of his situation, another member voluntarily provided loans in the form of jewellery so that he could fill his windows and avoid losing his Christmas season sales. So our member avoided the worst.”

Gemme does not intend to settle for recent successes. It keeps going and hopes to become “the benchmark for consumers and always better inform customers,” says Laperle. [CJ] Veuillez trouver l’article français à la page 70

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 3:25 PM

For details, write #123 on Free Info Page, page 145

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12-07-03 3:53 PM

designerprofile | reenaahluwalia

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Reena Ahluwalia Her jewellery designs owe their style to her roots in India and experiences in Canada

By Bonnie Siegler

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rom her home in Toronto, award-winning jewellery designer Reena Ahluwalia says it’s her nomadic lifestyle and culture deeply set in her native India that influence her designs. These have been described as flamboyant, understated, geometric, precise—all the while revealing both a feminine mystique and a tough edginess.

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“We are all a result of our experiences,” says Ahluwalia, owner of Reena Ahluwalia Designs, Inc. “That’s what makes our ideas unique. I was born in India, which is a soulful land of contrasts. A country of more than a billion, a land steeped in symbolism, of decorated elephants, mystic sadhus, ancient wisdom, textures and exploding colours.”

Canadian mosaic

From India, Ahluwalia moved to Toronto, where’s she’s lived for more than a decade. She describes Canada as “a land of openness, of pristine white winters, of diversity and a vibrant mosaic of thoughts and ideas that influence me.”

She is quick to point out that in Indian culture, jewellery is part of everyday life and rituals: “It’s multidimensional and serves so many functions beyond just aesthetics. Jewellery is an indicator of age, region, religion, economic and social status, marital status…a long list.”

1. “Canoe” necklace, 28.96cts Canadian diamonds, set in 18k white gold 2. “Legacy” vintage-inspired engagement ring, with 2.00ct Royal Asscher Cut diamond centre stone, set in 18k white gold

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Having lived or visited such diverse parts of the world as Asia, Europe and North America, Ahluwalia says her travels have made her “a global thinker. Travelling informs my design decisions and deepens my design thinking. It also satisfies my personal curiosity. I get to know how people think, what certain rituals represent, how people wear jewellery and what does it say—all of these things somehow translate into my designs.

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 3:27 PM

reenaahluwalia | designerprofile

“Including the life experiences and cultural cues gained during my travels helps expand my vision and keep it fresh. Sensing the world from my nomadic mind’s perspective brings a free spirit of enquiry and exploration— and that shows up in my cutting-edge designs.”

Canoe voyage

Reena Ahluwalia holds her Royal Asscher Diamond Tiara, 85ct, set in 18k white gold. The tiara was among those Kate Middleton considered wearing for her royal wedding to Prince William

Over a 17-year career, Ahluwalia’s jewellery pieces and collections have never failed to push creative boundaries, bringing her awards and praise from consumers and her peers. She most recently became the international winner of Canadian Diamonds Master Craftsman, Rio Tinto Diamonds Global Design competition by designing “Canoe,” a Canadian diamond necklace. The piece showcased 28.96 carats within 18k white gold, ideal square-cut diamonds from Crossworks Manufacturing, that captured the beauty of a Canadian winter landscape.

“Celebrating the magic and beauty of Canada, my home, was the inspiration for this design,” Ahluwalia says. “Canoes are a symbol very unique to Canada, that represent voyage, harmony with nature, discovery and courage.”

She also contributes to campaigns for De Beers, Platinum Guild International and the World Gold Council. Working primarily with diamonds and pearls, the designer loves splashes of colour, and will include vibrant gemstones in her work, as well.

“Ethereal Rhapsody” necklace inspired by the Pleiades star clusters, with 45 lustrous multicoloured Tahitian pearls, 9.24ct black diamonds, 3.70ct white diamonds. set in 18k white gold

Unusual materials

“I’m a serious lover of colour,” she states. “Whenever I get the opportunity, I work with different materials and gemstones. The bluest sapphires, vivid ruby red, but my primary material of choice is diamonds. I love the colour and texture that various gemstones provide. It’s exciting to explore and work with unusual materials.”

Aware of the competition among jewellery designers worldwide, Ahluwalia says: “We are all writers and creators of our own story. So staying ahead of others is never a thought that crosses my mind. When I create, it’s not so much that I’m following a trend. The Shining Stars Collection that we unveiled last year, the fashion trend was animal prints. I never thought of the fashion trend when I was making those pieces. My inspiration came from Africa and the magnificent animals. However, these two aligned. And it did transcend into an elective fashion trend that wasn’t coincidental at all.”

Winning diamonds

In fact, Ahluwalia rarely thinks of current fashion trends when creating new designs, and rarely attends fashion shows. Yet iconic British fashion designer Alexander McQueen featured her award-winning diamond jewels in his spring/summer 2000 debut in New York. And while celebrities have donned her pieces, she is reluctant to name names.

“My focus is to express what makes my ideas unique,” she says. “I am a result of my experiences; no one else can be who I am, nor can I be someone else.”

While style and trends don’t dictate Ahluwalia’s jewellery designs, she contemplates what makes a woman fashionable. “Someone who is secure in her own identity, somebody who understands her own personal style and just the elegance that comes with that knowledge,” she says. [CJ] www.canadianjeweller.com

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productfocus

Platinum semi-set engagement ring, 1/2cttw, centre stone sold separately, from Stuller

T he

e h battle of t

“bands” While the price of gold far exceeds that of platinum, consumer perception has retailers keeping their shelves clear of this seemingly “unattainable” metal

By Joe Tuck

It is common knowledge in tighter jewellery circles that platinum is no slouch in the precious metals category. Rather, it has a long history dating back to Egyptian times right through to the Edwardian period, to 1920s Art Deco, and was even used for artillery during both world wars.

“Often rings that were worn regularly for decades are in remarkably good condition—many of the highly desired Art Deco period rings, for example, were made of platinum and have survived almost a hundred years of regular wear,” says Harold Dupuy of Stuller.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 11:56 AM

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productfocus

In April 2012, a conglomerate of the world’s billionaires declared their intent to mine the precious metal deep from within asteroids circling our planet. With this outer space connection, demand should have literally skyrocketed. That was not the case.

So why is a metal that is 90-95 per cent pure (more than gold which, in 18k, is only 75 per cent pure), hypoallergenic and durable not flying off the shelves? Perhaps, as many jewellers have noticed, there’s a bit of a chicken and egg situation happening. It is hard to say whether it’s consumer demand, or the lack of retailer supply that dictates the use of platinum in jewellery design.

Platinum followed gold after the crash of 2008-09, and, regardless of market fluctuation, has seen a steady climb. Most retailers will attest that consumer perception holds platinum as the more valuable of the two metals, when in fact, this past May when gold was closing at more than $1,500 per ounce, platinum had peaked at more than $1,400. This pales in comparison with platinum’s all-time high of about $2,200 an ounce in early 2008.

“The perception is platinum is a more precious metal than gold, and yet gold is more expensive than platinum,” concurs Michael Sapir of Mirage Creations Inc.

Wedding/commitment bands, diamond cut on seamless tubing platinum blanks, from Atlantic Engraving. Ring on left contains 1 x 0.03ct & 6 x 0.01ct diamonds.

and Chairman of the Canadian Jewellers Association. “The enduring white colour of platinum lends itself perfectly to diamonds and other gemstones. Its setting ability allows the setter to have more confidence when setting an important stone.”

Every retailer knows that a customer will associate a higher price point with a heavier metal. However, regardless of its less dense nature compared to platinum, gold is still winning the race.

So precious

Regardless of value, perceptions of exclusivity keep platinum investments on the uptick.

Manufacturers just seem to love working with this metal.

“I feel the reason platinum is an important commodity is because of the intrinsic value it holds, as well as the ability to hold gemstones like no other metal,” says Chris Knight of Platinum Unlimited,

Platinum fashion ring, from Stuller

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When asked what the future of this battle of the metals might look like, Knight says: “The density of platinum gives it a special quality; because it’s heavier than gold, you get the sense of superiority associated with it when you slip something on. I think over the past couple of years, platinum has levelled off, but I believe the value platinum has right now over gold as a price point should boost the sales further than they are now. Platinum has never been a better buy when comparing it with the price of gold today.”

A hard metal

On the flip side, designers hesitate to work with the metal, and will create pieces only for special orders and specific requests.

“Platinum is a harder metal and also more complex to work with. It requires a more specialized technique to cast and to solder, as it melts at a higher temperature than gold,” says Sapir.

description here

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productfocus

Platinum and diamond infinity necklace; 1/8cttw, from Stuller

Designers are looking for ways to execute aesthetic concepts while at the same time minimizing the weight of an item. “Platinum’s strength and durability lends itself to the construction of jewellery with ‘negative space’ that is lacy, feminine and appealing,” says Dupuy.

“Today, platinum’s dominant product segment is bridal and wedding rings. It is also used extensively in components for the setting of high-value diamonds and precious gems.”

To stock or not to stock?

Surprisingly, from a cost standpoint, retailers continue to choose gold over platinum. It seems to be that the price point of the last three to five years gave retailers no incentive to stock platinum.

“It is too expensive to stock samples in a showcase with platinum.

[Retailers] prefer to use less expensive store samples and special order platinum. It is just too costly to keep in inventory for most stores,” agrees Freydi Traurig G.G. (GIA) of Atlantic Engraving.

Happily ever after

With platinum being the choice metal for royalty as well as celebrity weddings and engagements, its profile will continue to grow.

“Sales in platinum have seen a steady increase because it was always held in high esteem, and seen as the ‘elite’ of the precious metals group,” says Traurig. “Currently, there is a lure, romance and prestige of a platinum wedding ring, and that is driving sales. The consumer is purchasing it not only for its strength and longevity, but mainly because it is stylish at this time to buy a platinum wedding ring.

There is a certain glamour or exclusivity about it, and that leads to people wanting something that seems not necessarily attainable to everyone.”

Too special

Not being readily available in retail stores seems to be another factor that points to the perception of platinum’s exclusivity and mystique.

With this in mind, potentially, retailers could easily differentiate themselves from competitors by having platinum choices on hand.

It is apparent that this perception of exclusivity is indeed what drives the trend of platinum jewellery. Regardless of its value when the market closes, platinum has gained recognition because it seems more exclusive than gold. Gold jewellery is made across all price points and is readily available, whereas platinum is consistently reserved for special orders.

“Retailers have focused their in-stock platinum investments in the bridal segments of their business. However, as expected, the more ‘luxury’ positioned retailers generally offer more of an in-stock selection to consumers,” says Dupuy.

Now is a good time to buy platinum because image is everything, and it is important to educate the consumer on the accessibility of this “unattainable” metal. Once accessibility begins to affect sales, an increase in demand will surely follow. [CJ] PLATINUM JEWELLERY ADVERTISERS IN THIS ISSUE

Platinum wedding/commitment bands, diamond cut on seamless tubing platinum blanks, from Atlantic Engraving

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24 Gold Group 416.214.2443 www.24gold.ca

Malo Creations Inc. 416.682.6561 www.maloinc.ca

Ready Mounts 416.366.4046 www.readymounts.com

Ama Swiss 416.956.9735 www.amaswiss.com

Midas Jewellery 416.955.9415 www.midasjewelleryinc.ca

Stuller 800.877.7777 www.stuller.com

Atlantic Engraving 514.845.8257 www.atlanticengraving.com

Mirage 877.BY MIRAGE www.miragecreations.com

TIG Group 866.682.6823 www.tiggroup.ca

Kim International 800. 275.5555 www.kimint.com

Northam Diamonds 416.861.1414 www.northamdiamonds.com

Lega Jewellery 514.845.0066 www.legajeweller.com

Pacific Urns 888.832.1195 www.pacificurns.com

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12-06-27 11:57 AM

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Les | Nouvelles Expo Prestige

La jeune clientèle prend un tournant vintage

Pour les manufacturiers de bijoux, assurer la promotion de leurs produits auprès de tous les bijoutiers-détaillants n’est pas une mince affaire. Expo-Prestige est donc une occasion de réunir, en un même lieu, les acteurs importants du commerce des bijoux et des montres.

Les détaillants sont invités, du 26 au 28 août 2012, au Palais des Congrès de Montréal, à venir apprécier la qualité, la finition et la créativité dont font preuve les fournisseurs. En 2011, les bijoutiers avaient noté une tendance à la hausse quant à la qualité des pièces. Il sera intéressant de constater si cette évolution se maintient toujours.

Une telle concentration de métaux et de pierres précieuses pourrait faire l’envie de personnes moins honnêtes. Afin d’assurer la sécurité des collections, l’accès à l’exposition est réservé aux personnes de l’industrie et chaque personne qui entre dans la salle sera photographiée. – Pierre Ostiguy

Le 6 juin dernier, Liam Hemsworth et Miley Cyrus annonçaient leurs fiançailles. Il n’en fallait pas moins pour alimenter les discussions sur la bague choisie par le jeune acteur. Cette dernière, créée par le bijoutier Neil Lane, est en or jaune 18 carats et ornée de délicats motifs floraux. Aussi, le diamant central de 3,5 carats façonné à la fin du 19e siècle lui donne tout son caractère.

Autrefois, les diamants étaient taillés à la main, rendant ainsi chaque pièce unique. Le joyau n’a pas été retouché au fil des années afin de le moderniser, ce qui ajoute à son charme. Après quelques années dominées par le style épuré, le vintage prend maintenant d’assaut les bijoux. - Véronique Dubé

Le papillon d’amour Le papillon est une inspiration pour les joailliers. D’aussi loin que dans la mythologie grecque, plusieurs cultures l’attribuent à un symbole de légèreté, de grâce et d’emblème de la femme. Bfly, un fabricant spécialisé dans les bijoux pour jeunes, a fait du papillon sa marque de commerce. En plus des deux collections destinées aux enfants et aux jeunes filles, Bfly offre désormais une collection anniversaire exclusive de boucles-perceurs pour poupons d’une grande beauté et d’une incroyable délicatesse, en plus d’être totalement encapsulé et sécuritaire. Elles sont disponibles dans un choix de douze couleurs assorties aux mois de l’année, en or 14 carats ou plaquées en or 24 carats. En plus du papillon, Bfly diversifie son éventail et offre les boucles-perceurs en forme de cœur et de fleur. – Pierre Ostiguy

Des technologies à la fine pointe Les 3 et 4 mai dernier avaient lieu les Olympiades québécoises de la formation professionnelle et technique au Québec. Lors de l’événement, les professeurs du Centre de formation professionnelle Maurice-Barbeau ont présenté à la relève deux technologies qui plairont assurément aux bijoutiers et joailliers. Premièrement, la machine à souder PUK, qui permet de travailler avec précision, sans diffuser la chaleur ou oxyder les métaux. De plus, son coût d’entretien est faible. Deuxièmement, le logiciel RhinoGold, un outil de prédilection pour les créateurs et fabricants, qui crée et modifie des bijoux rapidement et avec précision grâce à la technologie fleximétrique. - Véronique Dubé www.canadianjeweller.com

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cjenfrançais Cette opération a connu son apogée lorsque Ken Massé a obstinément refusé de quitter sa demeure, contrairement à ses voisins. Il a décliné une offre de 350 000 $ en dépit d’un jugement de la Cour supérieure du Québec permettant à la minière de l’exproprier. Son expulsion manu militari a provoqué un grand émoi dans la société québécoise. – Pierre Ostiguy

Une découverte vieille de 7500 ans

Un procédé unique signé Infinacolor En mai dernier, Judi Toczylowski lançait la ligne de bijoux Infinacolor. Cette nouvelle gamme de produits se veut unique en son genre puisqu’elle offre une alternative d’une part aux bijoux chers fabriqués de métaux précieux et d’autre part à la bijouterie de fantaisie bon marché. La méthode d’Infinacolor consiste à couvrir l’argent ou l’alliage métallique d’une couche de titane afin de créer un produit entièrement hypoallergénique de qualité, à la mode et durable.

Grâce à son procédé breveté, Infinacolor garantit ses bijoux contre l’oxydation et les égratignures.

Ainsi, outre leur valeur, ils conserveront leurs couleurs et leurs brillances originales. De plus, ces bijoux sont abordables et conviennent aux gens qui ont la peau sensible.

Infinacolor offre un éventail de couleurs allant du bleu brillant au noir classique en passant par le mauve passion, des tons métalliques tels l’or champagne et l’argent éclatant ainsi qu’un fini arc-en-ciel unique. - Véronique Dubé

Almar : 4 M$ – Revenu Québec : 0 $ Après avoir multiplié les recours contre des bijouteries dans les derniers mois, Revenu Québec a été débouté par la Cour canadienne de l’impôt le 2 décembre dernier. La bijouterie Almar n’aura donc pas à rembourser 4 millions $.

Revenu Québec accusait la bijouterie Almar, du centre-ville de Montréal, d’avoir présenté de fausses factures pour réclamer le remboursement de la TPS. – Pierre Ostiguy

l’AEC en gestion de commerces s’adresse aux futurs gestionnaires désireux d’assurer le bon fonctionnement d’un établissement de vente au détail. Puis, le DEC en gestion de commerces prépare le futur technicien à gérer un commerce et à superviser une équipe de vente. Finalement, le certificat en commerce de détail s’adresse aux personnes travaillant déjà dans le milieu de la vente qui veulent acquérir une expertise de pointe. - Véronique Dubé

Trouvez la perle rare

Le vrai prix de l’or

Un fait bien connu des propriétaires de bijouteries est que les bons employés sont difficiles à trouver.

Notez que de nombreuses formations en vente sont maintenant offertes un peu partout au Québec, tant au niveau professionnel, collégial et universitaire.

D’abord, le DEP en vente-conseil permettra aux étudiants d’acquérir les connaissances et compétences nécessaires en vente. Ensuite,

Le projet Canadian Malartic est une mine aurifère à ciel ouvert située au sud de la ville de Malartic. Elle est la principale propriété d’Osisko, qui y a acquis un intérêt de 100%. Il s’agit de l’un des filons les plus prometteurs au monde, estimé à 10,7 millions d’onces d’or.

Pour l’exploitation de sa mine, Osisko a déménagé 138 des 205 maisons construites sur les aires de production et les autres ont été détruites.

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Alors qu’on croyait que la plus vieille perle du monde provenait du Japon, des chercheurs affiliés au Centre national français de la recherche scientifique (CNRS) ont annoncé le 7 juin dernier la découverte d’une perle fine datant de 7500 ans (par carbone 14) sur le site de l’habitat côtier d’Umm al-Quwain 2, aux Émirats arabes unis.

Il s’agirait ainsi de la plus ancienne perle fine archéologique de l’humanité.

Cette nouvelle fournit de précieuses informations quant à l’identité culturelle des sociétés anciennes du Golfe Persique. Entre autres, dans les rites funéraires, où les perles étaient placées sur le visage des défunts. La perle retrouvée avait par ailleurs été déposée dans la sépulture d’un individu. - Véronique Dubé

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-26 2:52 PM

Bijouterie / Je wellery

Specializing in:

Reverse colours available on all rings.

Two-Tone or Plain, Comfort Fit or Regular Wedding Bands in 10K, 14K, 18K, and Platinum.

For details, write #128 on Free Info Page, page 145

Catalogue available on request. Almost 100 new models added.

Head Office: 1117 Ste-Catherine O., Suite 418, Montreal, Quebec H3B 1H9 Tel: (514) 845-0066 • Fax: (514) 845-3697 • Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065 • info@legajeweller.com Quebec contact Marcel Dumontet Tel: (514) 865-7235

Proudly Canadian

Ontario Toll Free: 1 888 465-0065

Manitoba contact Rube Helman Toll Free: 1 800 665-3314

Alberta, Sask., British Columbia contact Vahan Mele Tel: (647) 284-5067 Marcel Dumontet Tel: (514) 865-7235

Visit our website for more selections: www.legajeweller.com

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Les meilleurs

concurrents du monde

Par Pierre Ostiguy Photographie par Claudia Ficca

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es franchisés? Une bannière? Non. Les bijoutiers qui affichent le logo Gemme forment un regroupement de 32 professionnelspropriétaires exploitant chacun un territoire exclusif. Bien que potentiellement en concurrence les uns avec les autres, depuis 40 ans, ils se sont fédérés en une structure qui en fait plutôt les meilleurs partenaires du monde. « Nous travaillons d’abord et avant tout pour nos membres qui sont aussi, en très grande partie, nos actionnaires, dit Marc Laperle, directeur général. Mais tout le monde finit par en profiter. Les fournisseurs y trouvent leur compte et les consommateurs aussi. » Sélection

Faire partie de Bijoutiers Gemme n’est pas donné à tout le monde.

D’une part, les membres doivent être des professionnels indépendants, c'est-à-dire être joaillier, gemmologue, horloger ou orfèvre. Ils doivent aussi avoir pignon sur rue et assurer sur place le service aprèsvente, comme l'entretien et la réparation. Enfin, ils doivent avoir démontré professionalisme, compétence et intégrité pendant un certain nombre d’années.

Les fournisseurs, pour leur part, doivent avoir fait preuve d’éthique commerciale et d'un excellent service . Mais ensuite, Gemme laisse

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libre cours aux forces du marché avec la certitude que les fournisseurs se classeront en fonction de leur capacité à livrer une marchandise qui plaît aux bijoutiers et aux clients.

Un marché au ralenti

Il y a quelques années, on a vu le marché du bijou et de l’horlogerie ralentir à cause de la situation économique. En mettant leurs efforts de mise en marché en commun, nos membres ont réussi à affronter avec succès cette baisse de la demande. Ce ralentissement a quand même eu un effet domino sur les détaillants, les grossistes et les fabricants. « Les joueurs sont moins nombreux aujourd’hui », fait remarquer Marc Laperle.

M. François Perreault, propriétaire d’une bijouterie à Joliette (50 km au nord-est de Montréal) et président de Bijoutiers Gemme ajoute : « En plus, nous devons tous nous adapter aux nouvelles façons de magasiner.

Un acheteur potentiel qui entre dans mon magasin a, en général, regardé sur Internet et il a une bonne idée de ce qui est disponible et des prix. » Le regroupement offre de nombreux avantages aux marchands membres.

Par exemple, par convention, les fournisseurs se sont engagés à offrir aux bijoutiers-membres de Gemme les prix les plus bas et les meilleurs escomptes. Les conventions comportent des clauses d’ajustements et de pénalités strictes.

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En réciprocité, chaque membre passe commande seulement auprès des fournisseurs conventionnés, mais il reste libre de choisir lesquels. De 41 fournisseurs en 2005, il a aujourd’hui le choix entre 104. Si Gemme négocie constamment les conventions pour ses membres afin d’inclure de nouvelles collections et modèles, il ne joue jamais le rôle d’intermédiaire. Tout se passe entre le bijoutier professionnel et le fournisseur selon les conditions entendues.

Publicités et promotions

« Les joailliers ont constamment besoin de promouvoir leur nom, de rappeler leur existence et les avantages de leurs produits aux consommateurs afin de leur suggérer de venir dans leur magasin. Une fois encore, la force du regroupement permet des économies d’échelle en répartissant le coût des campagnes de promotion entre tous les membres ou ceux d’une région, en particulier », explique Marc Laperle.

Augmentées et modernisées

Il y a un an environ, le regroupement Bijoutiers Gemme lançait la dernière version augmentée et modernisée de son site Web et de sa page Facebook. « Nous croyons que ce site est le plus complet qui soit et qu’il est la référence par excellence pour le consommateur », avance François Perreault.

Il semble, en effet, que l’ambition du regroupement ait donné lieu à un site qui, non seulement est une vitrine collective des pièces disponibles, mais aussi fait l’éducation des consommateurs sur des aspects méconnus du commerce des pierres, bijoux et pièces d’horlogerie. Le visiteur qui s’attarde sur ces pages en sort un client averti et susceptible de faire un choix plus judicieux.

Outre l’information, le visiteur par Internet peut identifier un bijoutier Gemme près de chez lui ou de son lieu de travail, examiner les collections de bijoux et d’horlogerie, magasiner et faire son choix. Les promotions apparaissent aussi en ligne. Ce site a aussi la particularité unique de se transformer entièrement et de devenir le site propre du bijoutier Gemme, une fois ce dernier identifié par géo localisation Toutefois, en raison de sa politique de ne pas se substituer à ses membres, Bijoutier Gemme a choisi de ne pas permettre l’achat en ligne à partir de ce site. Il appartient au consommateur de se rendre chez le marchand de son choix ou de prendre contact avec celui-ci pour faire part de son choix et conclure la transaction. Loin d’être un obstacle, l’absence de vente en ligne, amène les acheteurs en magasin qui peuvent toucher, essayer et apprécier la pièce désirée tout en profitant d'une assistance humaine et d'un service hors-pair.....contrairement au web!

Pour compléter, Gemme fait l’expérience depuis 4 ans de publicité diffusée sur un réseau automatisé d'écrans HD dans la moitié des bijouteries. Les résultats sont concluants, autant en ce qui a trait aux revenus qu’aux ventes en magasin.

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crédit immédiat, sur place, grâce à Desjardins Accès D. En ce moment, la direction est à négocier un programme avantageux d'assurances collectives pour ses bijoutiers, leurs employés et leurs familles ..

La mise en commun, un levier efficace

Bijoutiers Gemme est constamment à l’affût d’outils et de méthode qui permettront à ses membres d’augmenter leur rentabilité. Par exemple, il examine et recommande des logiciels et des instruments informatiques qui servent mieux les propriétaires de commerces de bijoux et d’horlogerie.

Il tient à jour des services de communication électronique permettant à chacun d’être informé simultanément de ce qui le concerne, autant au sein du réseau que dans le monde du bijou, en général.

Le réseau permet aussi l’échange. M. Perreault explique : « L’argent d’un bijoutier est immobilisé dans sa collection en magasin. Afin de maximiser son investissement et le contrôle de son approvisionnement, il commande des pièces dont sa clientèle raffole. Mais il arrive qu’un client veuille un bijou ou une montre qui ne fait pas partie de ce qu’il a en magasin. Un bijoutier membre de Gemme ne perdra pas sa vente pour autant. » Gemme permet au bijoutier de faire appel à des collègues ayant ce bijou ou cette montre en magasin et de répondre aux vœux du client en un jour ou deux.

En plus de tirer profit des rabais autorisés par le pouvoir d’achat de groupe, les bijoutiers Gemme jouissent d’une vaste gamme d’avantages connexes.

La direction a négocié une foule de tarifs réduits. Par exemple, Postes Canada leur accorde des tarifs spéciaux sur la livraison de brochures de promotion et de colis par Express Poste. Ils peuvent offrir aux clients un

En bijouterie comme dans bien d’autres domaines, la formation continue est une nécessité. Gemme a mis sur pied des ateliers de perfectionnement en bijouterie/gemmologie ainsi que des formations en gestion et en marketing pour aider ses membres à améliorer leur profitabilité. En complément des cours, les membres peuvent recevoir les conseils d’experts de la mise en marché, de la fiscalité, de l’évaluation des performances commerciales et de l’information qui leur permettent de tirer le meilleur profit de leur investissement en temps et en argent dans leur commerce.

Entraide

Les bijoutiers Gemme forment un groupe d’une solidarité exceptionnelle.

Bien sûr, ils se rencontrent aux congrès et assemblées annuelles , mais les liens qu’ils tissent vont au-delà des échanges d’affaires. Pour le prouver, Marc Laperle raconte cette anecdote : « Il a y quelques années, l’un de nos membres a eu le malheur d’être cambriolé quelques semaines avant Noël. Les voleurs ont ouvert son coffre et se sont emparés de la totalité du contenu. Lorsqu’il est arrivé le matin, le bijoutier n’avait plus rien à vendre et semblait condamné à attendre plusieurs jours son réapprovisionnement, et ce, à une période déterminante de l’année. Sans qu’il le demande, une fois informés de sa situation, d’autres membres lui ont spontanément consenti des prêts sous forme de bijoux afin qu’il regarnisse ses vitrines et ne perde pas sa saison. Des fournisseurs ont suivi le mouvement et notre homme a évité le pire. » Un peu plus haut, un peu plus loin

Le regroupement des Bijoutiers Gemme n’entend pas se contenter des succès récents. Il poursuit sur sa lancée et espère devenir « LA référence auprès des consommateurs et toujours mieux informer la clientèle », dit Marc Laperle. [CJ] www.canadianjeweller.com

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JCK Las Vegas 2012

Rétrospective Les nouvelles collections et gammes de produits font reculer les limites de l’innovation et de l’ingéniosité par E.Z. Guler-Tuck

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ive tout ce qui est coloré, éclatant et brillant, et surtout — Las Vegas! L’ouverture des kiosques LUXURY le 29 mai dernier a signalé le lancement du JCK Las Vegas Show, et toutes les marques de montres et de bijoux brillaient de tous leurs feux.

Le salon de cette année a vu les toutes dernières collections et les gammes de produits de plus de 2 500 exposants faire reculer les limites de l’innovation et de l’ingéniosité dans le domaine du design de la bijouterie et de la montre. L’augmentation record de 21 % de la fréquentation du salon a prouvé que malgré les aléas de l’économie, le luxe se manifeste souverainement.

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Les ambassadeurs

Aux côtés de Pamela Anderson et de Brooke Burke, la canadienne Natalie Glebova, ancienne Miss Univers, s’est jointe à la liste des ambassadeurs de marques célèbres en représentant Canadian Ice diamonds avec style et classe.

Un héritage

Rassemblant les bijoutiers arméniens du monde entier et forte d’une présence canadienne considérable, la Armenian Jewellers Association (AJA) a perpétué sa tradition avec son pavillon arménien et son 5e cocktail annuel et ce, pour la seconde année d’affilée.

1. Bague à perles magma Emanuela Duca 2. Brent Trepel de Ben Moss Jewellers, Natalie Glebova, ambassadrice de marque de Canadian Ice Diamonds, et Joseph Silon de JSN dans la cabana JSN-Ever à JCK Rocks the Beach party 3. Bracelet Belle Étoile de la collection émail

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cjenfrançais «Croqueuse de diamants»

Alors que les détaillants ne jurent que par «l’emplacement, l’emplacement, toujours l’emplacement», les designers téméraires du JCK de cette année promouvaient «le matériau, le matériau, toujours le matériau». On a vu un déluge de rhodium plaqué et l’incorporation d’une sélection de motifs naturalistes tels que les coquillages, les impressions animales, le bambou et les plumes, ainsi que le caoutchouc italien, la bakélite (ancêtre du plastique) et l’argent sterling noirci.

Les points forts du salon incluaient des créations utilisant du caoutchouc italien, de la bakélite (ancêtre du plastique) et de l’argent sterling noirci. «Pendant la création de mes dernières collections, je voulais rester en contact avec quelque chose de solidement ancré dans la terre et qui évoquerait les cendres volcaniques, la lave solidifiée, ainsi que les ruines antiques de ma Rome natale. L’argent sterling noirci m’a inspiré cette relation», a déclaré Emanuela Duca, designer pour Emanuela Duca New York.

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Ce mélange intriqué de matériau a brisé les tabous dans la confection des bijoux, où l’acier se marie maintenant avec l’argent et les blancs avec l’or rose, et où les pierres précieuses sont ajoutées pour la couleur et les accents.

La vie en jaune

Cette année, le salon nous faisait assister de toute évidence au triomphe de la couleur, nous défiant avec un kaléidoscope de pierres précieuses provenant du monde entier, serties dans des collections luxueuses d’or, d’argent et même d’acier.

Les collections zodiaques par Blfy pour les enfants sont personnalisés avec les explosions de couleur. « La compagnie BFLY nous explique que les collections de bijoux en pierres de naissance sont très populaires pour les plus jeunes (0-7 ans) puisqu’il s’agit de cadeaux personnalisés que l’on peut conserver pendant plusieurs années. Plus les enfants grandissent, plus ils aiment choisir leur couleur préférée et c’est pourquoi BFLY a lancé sa nouvelle collection BFLOWER », indique le président de Bfly, Stéphane Lavoie.

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1. Collection automne 2012 de Bfly Bflower 2. Bague La Trinité de Claude Thibaudeau 3. Pamela Anderson, ambassadrice de marque pour Palladium Alliance International 4. Manchette Ivanka Trump Lao Tong 5. Bagues Nada G Aya avec or de 18k et diamants noirs par Sobhan Allah www.canadianjeweller.com

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Outre la topaze, le grenat, l’améthyste, le péridot et la tourmaline, les pierres précieuses jaunes étaient à l’honneur. Le jaune s’est avéré être la couleur de l’année, et particulièrement en ce qui concerne les diamants.

Le jaune s’imposait également avec l’or, preuve que quel qu’en soit le prix, le sentiment de sécurité que l’on attache à ce métal précieux si rassurant survivra à toutes les fluctuations du marché et garde un place solide dans l’industrie.

Montre-moi!

Les innovations dans le design des montres se sont particulièrement fait remarquer dans le salon grâce à un joyeux mélange allant de l’ancien au classique, du pare-balle à l’analogue — chacun différenciant sa marque de manière unique.

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Pour ce qui est de la taille, puisque que «plus c’est grand, mieux c’est», elle continue à avoir la préférence auprès des nouveaux designers, et les salles d’exposition des plus grandes marques étaient dominées par des créations plus simples, plus subtiles, mais très puissantes.

«Bering allie la conception minimaliste danoise à la solidité optimale des matériaux d’une manière unique. Inspiré par la beauté du paysage arctique, le style de la collection Bering se caractérise par des formes profilées et claires et par une élégance pure. Des matériaux de haute qualité tels la céramique technique et la glace saphir, dotées d’une résistance aux égratignures et d’une solidité extrêmes, garantissent que le temps ne laisse aucune trace», affirme Michael Negreanu de Midore Inc. (vendeur de montres Bering) au Québec.

Les nouveaux marchés émergeants

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Afin de prouver leurs prouesses au sein du marché mondial de la joaillerie, les marchés prospères comme la Chine (et plus particulièrement Hong Kong), l’Inde et le Brésil ont ébloui les visiteurs avec leurs propres quatre «C»; couleur, connaissance du métier, créativité et culture. La bannière sophistiquée de Hong Kong dirigeait les visiteurs à travers des rayons de kiosques abondamment décorés de pierres précieuses, et représentant chacun des créations éclectiques de l’une des régions les plus riches de Chine.

1. Montre Phosphor 2. Directrice de la création pour Kabana, Sophia H. Eleftheriou 3. Morganite and diamond earrings from Yael Designs Lyra Collection 4. Sunny Yellow Diamonds Color Engagements par Le Vian 5. Collier de la Collection Paul & Joe par le Groupe GL 6. Production vidéo de Canadian Jeweller avec Roxane Dixon de Nouvo Mode et Mary Prescop de Belle Étoile

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COVER THE PULSE OF TIME

For details, write #124 on Free Info Page, page 145

Independent Swiss Family Business Swiss Made Passion & Handicraft Sophisticated & Trendy Design Worldwide Presence

COVER EXPRESSIONS Co 148

Swiss Made. www.discovercover.com Distributor: Valangin Inc. 1435 St-Alexandre, #400 Montreal, Quebec H3A 2G4, Canada

Tel. +1 514 845 2250 Tel. +1 800 361 1623 admin@valangin.com www.coverwatches.com

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L’India Gallery exposait un festival de bijoux et organisait une soirée de danses folkloriques traditionnelles et un défilé de mode «sur invitation seulement». «L’Inde est devenue une puissance dans le domaine du haut de gamme. Nous produisons certains des designs les plus avant-garde et les plus recherchés à l’heure actuelle», explique Raksha Manihar du The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council of India.

Le Brésil nous a livré de précieuses créations abondantes en pierres précieuses colorées, des mets délicieux et, bien sûr, une atmosphère tropicale bien propre à cette région.

Du neuf et de l’ancien

Plutôt que de réinventer la roue, Claude Thibaudeau, designer de Montréal, a redéfini la bague à trois pierres en incorporant de l’or rose et des éléments de pavé de diamants.

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«Claude Thibaudeau propose un nouveau design de la collection La Trinité, incluant un jonc original qui s’insère et enrobe la bague ce qui permet de maintenir les deux pièces bien en place, créant ainsi l’illusion d’une seule bague ! Offert en 18kt, Platine ainsi qu’en or rose et sertie de diamant micro-pavé», explique Claude Thibaudeau.

Le mot de la fin

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Lorsque le dernier jour du salon est arrivé, une fois toutes les poignées de main serrées et tous les kiosques visités, après les soirées fastueuses, les réaffirmations de relations existantes et la naissance d’autres tout aussi durables, et la promesse de nouvelles histoires excitantes qui ne manqueront pas de paraître sur ces pages, il était clair que le JCK Las Vegas Show de cette année restera dans les anales. -Traduction par Annick Torfs [CJ]

1. Bracelet Vianne Gotas de Orvalho 2. Montre Bering 3. Bagues noires et blanches de Mark Schneider 4. John White, président, Amérique du Nord, pour PANDORA Jewelry, et à droite, Björn Gulden, président directeur général de PANDORA Jewelry 5. Bracelet en argent sterling de PANDORA avec breloque en verre Murano à facettes violettes

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SOURCE

À la

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profit

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PAR PIERRE OSTIGUY

l y a une vingtaine d’années, deux de mes tantes ont ouvert une bijouterie dans leur petite ville absorbée par la banlieue : une population en augmentation voulait dire plus de clientèle. Leur commerce a connu des hauts et des bas, mais elles ont tiré leur épingle du jeu. Elles auraient fait beaucoup mieux si elles avaient su d’où venaient leurs profits.

« La gestion de l’inventaire est indispensable », affi rme André Leblanc, vice-président du Parchemin, une chaîne de bijouteries, élue 15 fois au titre de Choix des consommateurs. « Elle sert à connaître l’état de l’inventaire, à savoir ce qui se vend bien ou non et à assurer la sécurité. Une collection de bijoux est l’objet de convoitise et ses pièces se revendent bien sur le marché parallèle. »

Quand un commerçant expose 200 ou 300 objets – bagues, colliers et bracelets –, il lui est impossible de se rappeler précisément lesquels ont la cote et à quel rythme ils s’écoulent.

LE MANQUE DE LIQUIDITÉ

Investir dans un système de gestion de l’inventaire vous permettra d’acheter et de commander à nouveau et facilement les bijoux qui se vendent rapidement et de recycler les moins appréciés. En effet, selon Bill Boyajian, ex-président du Gemological Institute of America, ceux qui restent sur les tablettes plus de 6 mois ont une mince chance de jamais trouver preneur.

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Au Québec, moins de la moitié des entreprises fêtent leur 5e anniversaire. Le plus gros problème est la sous-capitalisation. On fait des ventes, puis on se dépêche de payer un ou deux fournisseurs dont on ignore si leurs produits ont du succès. Pour un bijoutier détaillant, le manque de liquidités est attribuable à l’argent qui dort dans la part de l’inventaire qui n’a pas la cote du public. « Chaque fois que vous payez un manufacturier dont les bijoux ne se vendent pas, vous gênez votre approvisionnement ou réapprovisionnement en bijoux qui se vendent », affi rme M. Boyajian.

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12-06-27 11:16 AM

N

SE OU CTVEL IO LE N

cjenfrançais Éviter de se tirer dans le pied

Il est établi que la première moitié des ventes porte sur les produits de seulement 5 ou 6 fournisseurs. Les 25 % à 30 % suivants, aux produits de 5 ou 6 autres fournisseurs. Puisque l’essentiel de votre chiffre d’affaires, et donc de vos bons produits, est relié aux activités d’une douzaine de fournisseurs, il apparaît logique de se concentrer sur ceux-ci. L’achat ne doit pas être laissé au hasard ou aux sentiments. Acheter et racheter ce qui se vend, en bonne quantité et au bon moment, évite de se tirer dans le pied. « Avec le taux actuellement élevé de l’or ainsi que les coûts inhérents, nul ne peut se permettre de commander trop. Ainsi lorsque je parcours les halls d’exposition, j’ai un inventaire de ce que nous avons en magasin.

Cela m’évite de passer commande inutilement de certains bijoux… », dit André Leblanc.

Les « bons vendeurs » d’abord

Une saine gestion implique de commander les pièces qui trouvent rapidement un acheteur. Le Business Focus Management Institute de Henderson, au Nevada, classe les bijoux en deux catégories : ceux qui se vendent très rapidement et ceux qui se vendent relativement rapidement.

Les premiers partent en moins de 3 mois, les seconds en 91 à 180 jours.

Certains bijoutiers craignent de saturer leur marché. Prenons le commerce de vêtements : même si vous habitez en périphérie, combien de fois avezvous remarqué deux personnes, au même moment, portant les mêmes vêtements? Peut-être jamais.

marchandise et à racheter des pierres et métaux précieux. Toutefois, le rétablissement de la situation va les obliger à revenir progressivement au commerce habituel.

Selon Bill Boyajian « Une bijouterie moyenne réalise environ 5 000 ventes (biens et réparations) chaque année. Si chaque transaction vaut 100 $, l’entreprise réalise un chiffre d’affaires de 500 000 $. Si la moyenne monte à 200 $, le chiffre d’affaires sera de 1 million $. » Ici, la clé est le prix. Bas prix, prix promos, prix de gros? Les prix de vente sont calculés au moyen du coût de revient, puis modulés en fonction de la concurrence et de la psychologie des clients.

Fixer le prix en fonction du coût de revient

Pour gagner de l’argent, vous devez vendre votre produit plus cher que vous ne l’avez acheté. Vous pouvez définir votre prix de vente à partir de ce que vous voulez gagner à chaque transaction, selon l’équation : prix de vente = prix d’achat + profit brut.

Fixer le prix en fonction de la concurrence

Si votre prix de vente est bien supérieur à celui des commerçants de votre environnement, il se peut que les clients achètent d’eux plutôt que de vous… à moins que vous n’offriez un produit ou un service de meilleure qualité et que cela se sache. Si vous diminuez votre prix de vente, les clients seront attirés par votre politique de prix, mais il se pourrait que votre profit brut soit insuffisant pour passer le seuil de rentabilité.

Fixer le prix en fonction d’un prix psychologique

Un bijou qui a la faveur des acheteurs va se vendre encore et encore pendant des mois. Il est certain qu’une pièce qui s’est vendue en quelques semaines après sa mise en vitrine sera le choix de nombreux autres clients.

Un article qui se vend rapidement, c’est un bulletin de confiance de votre clientèle.

André Leblanc met en garde : « Un bijoutier ne peut pas se contenter d’offrir uniquement le même produit que son voisin. Il doit être imaginatif et prendre l’initiative de proposer des produits plus exclusifs tout en respectant les tendances. » Cesser de blâmer la situation économique

2012 sera une bonne année pour la vente de bijoux en Amérique du Nord : le Canada a une économie forte et stable et la reprise aux États-Unis se raffermit. Que la situation soit rose ou morose, la gestion efficace et stratégique de l’inventaire aide à affronter la concurrence. Chaque aspect maîtrisé – gestion générale de l’inventaire, identification et gestion des articles préférés des clients, choix des fournisseurs – permettra d’avoir une entreprise commerciale lean and mean, donc plus efficace. Si vous ne possédez pas ces techniques, songez à les apprendre.

Fixation des prix

La récession récente a amené plusieurs bijoutiers à déprécier la

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Dans l’esprit de l’acheteur, il y a un surplus à payer pour la qualité. Cette perception du prix est liée au concept de prix psychologique, celui qu’un client considère acceptable en fonction de l’objet convoité et de la qualité qu’il suppose. Le prix psychologique est utilisé dans le commerce des produits de luxe (parfums, vêtements) où on affiche des prix de vente très supérieurs aux coûts. « Il faut reconnaître que la concurrence est agressive dit André Leblanc.

La clientèle est aujourd’hui avisée et avertie. Souvent nos clients ont déjà magasiné sur Internet avant de passer à notre boutique. Il faut donc afficher un prix raisonnable. Ainsi, nous n’utiliserons jamais la stratégie de certains commerçants qui affichent des prix très élevés pour ensuite les réduire de manière importante en fonction d’un supposé rabais. » Fixez vos prix en fonction de l’image que vous voulez donner à votre produit et à votre boutique.

Faire face aux défis

Le commerce des bijoux par Internet est florissant : les boutiques en ligne offrent aux internautes l’occasion de trouver n’importe quoi. Mais il faudra encadrer cette nouvelle réalité et trouver des moyens de limiter la fraude. Heureusement, rien, à ce jour, n’a fait disparaître le souhait d’une majorité de consommateurs de toucher, d’essayer et de se voir arborant l’objet de luxe convoité. [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 3:06 PM

For details, write #132 on Free Info Page, page 145

Rodania Mystery Collection High-tech ceramic & stainless steel 316L Rodania Canada Inc. TĂŠl.: +1 (514) 842 9136 Toll Free: 1-877-RODANIA (763-2642) info@rodaniacanada.com 1255 University, # 508, Montreal, Qc. H3B 3V8, Canada Come and visit us at the following trade shows in 2012: Western Jewellery Show Edmonton, August 17-19th - booth # 822-824 MontrĂŠal Expo Prestige, August 26-28th - booth # 619 www.rodaniacanada.com

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gemologyfeature

Summer gem palette

In keeping with the bright colours of the fashion world this season, coloured gems are in the limelight

BY DUNCAN PARKER

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T

astes change, and while large feature gems are less commonly seen, smaller coloured gems and unusual coloured gems are taking their place. The diamond continues its market dominance; however, colour is abundant, and whether as single gems or as multiple accents, coloured gems certainly have a firm place this summer.

There are certain reliable standards in gems we can expect to see in jewellery from Las Vegas to Shanghai, from Sydney to Yellowknife.

And there are gems that have often been called “precious”: diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, pearl and a few others.

Gemmologists, however, hold back from using the terms “precious” and “semi precious.” That’s because, while we can find a ruby or sapphire that is very costly, we can also find a rubbish ruby that costs less than many of its more commonly found cousins. Unpleasant looking, opaque, poorly coloured ruby can easily be eclipsed by really fine amethyst, peridot or tourmaline, for example.

was instantly copied by millions of imitators. The outcome was a huge upswing in sapphire prices.

THE RULES OF ECONOMICS

Supply and demand rules apply: The more demand there is for something of which there is no increase in supply, the more prone the price is to rise.

The same thing happened in 2010, when Prince William gave his late mother’s engagement ring to his intended, Kate Middleton. The next generation started looking for rings like Kate’s (probably not realizing that somewhere in the cobwebs at the back of mom’s jewellery box was just the ring they had wanted).

BIG JEWELLERY IS BIG

WHAT CHANGES TASTES?

Big jewellery is making a grand impression at all the jewellery shows this year. From giant gemstone strands (“Wilma Flintstone” or “Betty Rubble” jewellery) of rough crystals or polished beads, to huge areas of gold entirely paved with tiny gemstones, jewellery has a large format and is being made with old gems in new forms.

While there’s always demand for fine rubies, sapphires, emeralds, diamonds and pearls, there are plenty of other choices available, too.

THE NEW STARS Tsavorite

What we see featured in the jeweller’s showcase changes regularly, season to season, just like the t-shirts at stores where my kids shop. Tastes change with new seasons, new designers, Pantone colours of the week, and so many other factors.

For instance, the use of a bright red colour accessorizing a movie star at the Oscars may bring about a growth in the use of ruby in jewellery for the next year.

THE ROLE OF AUCTIONS

The sale of an exceptional gem also may bring others out of the woodwork. The Fall Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers sale saw a ruby estimated at $350,000-$400,000 sell for $800,000. Following that, there were many dealers and jewellers seeing red, or at least looking for it in their inventory, wondering if their rubies were priced properly.

Sapphires can be any colour, with the blue ones being the most well known. The 1981 engagement of Lady Diana Spencer and Prince Charles was celebrated with the engagement ring given by Prince Charles to Diana. The ring was a traditional sapphire and diamond cluster ring, and

Tsavorite garnet can be a beautiful rich green colour, and while it isn’t available in very large sizes, it is available in very small sizes, and these are often faceted into tiny gems. These bright green gems can make a strong impact in a piece of jewellery. They have a stronger constitution and a brighter colour than similarly sized emeralds; they are cleverly used as accent gems in “micro-pave” and more rarely as stand-alone gems.

Sapphire

Similarly, tiny sapphires of various colours—particularly blue and pink— are finding their way into mico-pave in large-size jewellery. Sometimes the small gems are the focus, and sometimes they are the accents around larger feature gems. Often the feature gems are in complementary colours; for example, orange-coloured fire opal might be accented by fine blue sapphire melee (tiny gems), or emerald by pink sapphire melee.

Tourmaline

Tourmaline is an exciting gem, and has been for a long time. It can be any colour, so it fits anywhere in the palette. Right now tourmalines containing copper and in bright blue to green colours such as those from the Brazilian Paraiba district are generating the most interest.

These rich coloured tourmalines are the big money in tourmalines.

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New

Presentation for 2012

gemologyfeature

Jadeite jade untreated

Ziosite, tanzanite 32.15cts polarizer rotated

Sapphire, pink 7.32ct

New

Collection Fall 2012

However, there are other colours that are also very attractive, and are being used as more modestly priced feature gems in a wide range of designer jewellery.

Tanzanite

Tanzanite is a gem famous for having only one source: its namesake, Tanzania. It’s being heavily promoted as a very rare gem, due to depletion of supply. The tanzanites that we have seen in the market since its official introduction by Tiffany & Co in the 1960s have been clean to the eye, and of mid to dark tones of colour. The past year has seen an increasing supply of heavily included and light colour tanzanite. These modestly priced tanzanites are fi nding their niche in the bead market and the low-cost gem market.

Jadeite and untreated sapphires

Increasingly important are the specialized niche markets of culturally specific gems. Gems that have talismanic importance for health and success are in demand. For example, there is an important market for jadeite in the Asian market. It’s considered a gem that will protect your health, and will actually protect the wearer from injury. Similarly, in parts of the South Asian market, sapphires that are untreated in any way will resonate with the wearer to enhance well-being.

Turquoise

Turquoise has long been seen as a cheap gem used in silver southwestern belt buckles in North America. However, for the Middle Eastern purchaser, the “Persian” turquoise from Iran is considered a gem worthy of setting in gold with diamonds. Lately, shows have featured turquoise beads and cabochons that are rich, uniform, and bright blue with very solid prices. Recent results at Dupuis Auctioneers saw both turquoise and jadeite realize very high prices.

See Collection on Page 53

bfly.ca 3291 chemin Royal . Québec . QC Canada G1E 1V8 . 418.660.2909 or 1.888.660.3292 Patent Pending

Space rocks

Extraterrestrial and seemingly other-worldly gems continue to fascinate gem buyers. There are meteorites that really are from beyond our world, and there are tektites and moldavites, natural glasses that are thought to be material thrown into the atmosphere due to asteroid impact, and returned to Earth as fused lumps of green, brown or black glass. These gems are used in their forms as found, or are faceted. They make distinctly odd-looking conversation pieces. [CJ]

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New Collection Fall 2012 This collection is for every Miss Flower on Earth. Nature’s beauty in the flower has been captured in a unique silver jewelry collection in five sparkling symbolic colors.

Designed primarily for girls (8-12+), this collection will surely charm the older ones as well. For BFLY, this new collection is a step forward in our desire to inspire youth.

Be Natural, be yourself and follow your inspiration...

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For details, write #133 on Free Info Page, page 145

Patent Pending

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12-06-26 4:27 PM

quebecjewellery

Québecois creativity

The Jewellery Artists of Québec Exhibition in New York City showcased 14 unique talents

BY LILIAN M. RAJI

W

hile colourless diamonds, pearls and traditional metals make up most of Québec’s commercial jewellery industry, there’s a growing commune of jewellery designers who like to experiment with the uncommon.

Embedded within the cultural identity of Québec is a profound love of the arts, of the creative and the unusual. So when the Société de Développement des Entreprises Culturelles (SODEC), the Québec government agency charged with promoting Québec culture to international markets, decided jewellery would be its next focus, it did so by digging deep into Québec’s heritage to identify 14 of the most creative and distinct talents in jewellery artistry. These artists were then presented this past May at New York City’s Aaron Faber Gallery.

VISIONARY WORKS

Élise Bergeron large amethyst and violet sapphire ring, 12 mm fine purple amethyst with rare violet sapphire set in 20k gold

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Jewellery Artists of Québec: Innovation and Craftsmanship in Metal was the first of its kind exhibition featuring the visionary works of Barbara Stutman, Christine Larochelle, Elise Bergeron, Gustavo Estrada, Janis Kerman, Jean-Pierre Gauvreau, Laurie Dansereau, Lynn Légaré, Matthieu Cheminée, PierreYves Paquette, Roland Dubuc, and Annegret Morf and Antonio Serafino, the husband and wife team of SERAFINO. These 14 artists delivered to a New York City audience an exhibition that celebrated Québec’s cultural heritage.

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12-06-27 3:08 PM

For details, write #134 on Free Info Page, page 145 CJJUN2012_Advertiser_Product_xxxx_FP.indd 19

www.polanticanada.com 12-07-03 10:54 AM

quebecjewellery

Gustavo Estradta bracelet 2010, silver-plated copper; formed, chased and patinated

Lynn Légaré, a designer with a forceful mélange of elaborate, one-of-a-kind earrings and necklaces, hand-fabricated in complexly meandered sterling silver and 18k gold accented with semi-precious stones, elaborates on the influences to Québec’s artists: “Québec has a very strong cultural identity in several artistic domains. Jewellery isn’t any different than other art forms in that respect. The training quality in our schools and studios play an important role in the excellence we create.

“Worth mentioning is that several European jewellers settled in Montréal in the ‘60s and brought a savoir faire we didn’t have before. The transfer of knowledge from them to our society has been successful.”

Dynamic work

U.S. jewellery industry expert Meeling Wong was among the many saluting the dynamic work of Québec’s jewellery artists. “These collections have an individualistic and artisan appeal,” she says. “The workmanship, craft and creative use of materials is very impressive, and aligned with the collective of American jewellers who shy away from mainstream looks.”

Laurie Dansereau, angophora anémone ring, limited edition in sterling silver and cornelian

The U.S. jewellery industry isn’t a stranger to the exotic artistry shared by these Quebecois artists. Todd Reed, Wilfredo Rosado and Gurhan have long found captivated benefactors for their unconventional designs.

Claudio Pino, best described as a jewellery sculpturist, found enthusiastic acceptance for his audaciously redefined concepts on traditional ring design. Unifying kinetic movement with colours, metals and stones, Pino delivered a collection of rings far ahead of their time, yet perfectly embraced by those who prefer the avant-garde.

Matthieu Cheminée’s poignant artistry was revealed in his complex, multilayered buckles, bracelets and rings constructed from recycled jewellery. His work is a reflection of a dynamic cultural heritage, balancing instruction in silversmith from the Navajo, Hopi and Zuni of Taos, New Mexico; a threeyear sabbatical in Mali, West Africa studying jewellery making with the Touareg and Bambara tribes; and current residence in Montreal learning classical design techniques.

Eye-catching silver

Gustavo Estrada is an artist whose fundamental principal themes in design—form, volume and texture—were reflected in his rich treatment of eye-catching sterling silver bracelets, necklaces and rings in techniques of patina, copper on silver and repoussé. His work was so well received that a bracelet sold before the exhibition opened. Nine more pieces from other artists sold on opening night.

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12-06-27 9:15 AM

quebecjewellery

While the artists found applauding patrons in New York City’s insatiable thirst for the different, Légaré reveals that such a reception was uncommon at home: “I believe jewellery in Québec is doing well but jewellers are not. While we’re quite a few designers in a fairly small market, there are only a few places we can exhibit. It’s important our institutions support exhibitions such as this, which allow for promotion of our art to American and European markets.”

Convention versus innovation

Annegret Morf, partner at SERAFINO, a collection of abstractly cut gemstones and whimsically sculpted pieces, continues, “The Québec jewellery industry represents the complete opposite of what was shown at Aaron Faber. Québec industry caters to a very conventional crowd, using classical designs, pearls, diamonds or other colourless stones and only occasionally rubies, emeralds or sapphires.”

“Contemporary jewellery designers all have memories of entering contests in Québec where they were told their work is nice but has no profitable future by industry standard,” adds Jean-Pierre Gauvreau, an artist whose rings are constructed in a multi-dimensional geometric vocabulary of combined alloyed 18k gold, sterling silver, white and coloured diamonds in platform tiers, juxtaposed with petals, squares and trapezoids.

Roland Dubuc is a master manipulator of metal sheets, who, absent of heat or solder and using a technique similar to origami, repeatedly cuts and folds gold and silver sheets upon themselves until extraordinary pendants and brooches are revealed.

“The Québec industry is split into two main markets: jewellery retailers who cater to more classic jewellery, where doors aren’t open for contemporary jewellers; and jewellery artists who sell their work in shows, from their studio or in a craft stores. It’s very difficult for those artists to expand their distribution,” he says.

As a result, artists now look to the U.S. as a platform to gain more recognition.

Future plans

Légaré will continue her annual participation at the International Expositions of Sculpture Objects and Functional Art in Chicago, while targetting more U.S. galleries. Dubuc, after keeping his permanent collection in his Montréal studio-shop for many years, is now ready to show in U.S. and Canadian galleries and boutiques. Morf is focusing on the U.S. and other parts of Canada to continue SERAFINO’s forward push. And Élise Bergeron participated for the first time at JCK Las Vegas. Bergeron is an enthusiast in the underused art of hand manipulation, offering designs birthed from hours of intense finessing of thin metal ribbons to create unrefined pieces with ornate textures and ethnic allusions.

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Lynn Légaré earrings: “Vrille,” 18ct gold, French Polynesian pearls, rubies, sapphires; hand fabricated, one-of-a-kind

For Janis Kerman, a celebrated instructor with an extensive resume of accolades by the who’s who of private collectors, awards and prestigious exhibitions, looking to the U.S. is a good strategy. “For close to 25 years, I’ve focused on this career path to show my work in the U.S. and was initially very fortunate to benefit from more profitable and open economic times,” she says. “In order to compete, I created and continue to develop pieces, both one-of-a-kind and limited series that stand out amongst the mass of existing American talent.”

Next generation

Kerman now prepares the next generation of Quebecois jewellery artists, collaborating with her daughter, Erin Wahed, who recently launched Bande des Quatres, a collection that takes inspiration from Kerman’s own love of an asymmetrical view of balance, and meshes it with a voice distinctly Wahed’s own. Her rings find the beauty in opposites, of what one side has that the other lacks, and how such differences account for a stunning, unified perspective.

As SODEC continues to push forward its mission to introduce foreign markets to the best of their jewellery artistry, the unconventional jewellery Artists of Québec find both a benefactor and a supportive podium to achieve international acclaim.

And to Meeling Wong, such acclaim is certainly well deserved. “I can’t wait to see what else is coming from Québec!” she says. [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-26 10:34 AM

Creative Gems Ad layout 5/3/12 12:57 PM Page 1

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12-06-26 4:42 PM

tradeshowguide

JCK Toronto 2012 August 12 to 14 | Metro Toronto Convention Centre

831 A T M S Group Co 926 Accudiam 807 Adler Jewellery Wholesale Inc. 844 Affordable Creations 409 Almar Jewellery Mfg 1026 American Gem Society 535 Americas Gold 825 AMERICA’S SILVER COLLECTION / INDIVISUAL IN STYLE 818 Arezzo Import Export Inc 630 Aria Jewelry 931 Atlantic Engraving Ltd 625 AV Diamonds/Price Point Leader 729 Beach Gem & Jewelry (HK) Co, ltd 937 BERBERIAN JEWELRY MFG. INC 608 Best Bargains 503 Beverly Hills Jewellers 815 Bcouture 1002 BFLY 603 BKJ Canada 828 C. Dinesh & Co. Pvt. Ltd 703 Canadian Gem Inc 1018 Canadian Jeweller (CJ) Magazine 601 Canadian Jewellers Assn 735 Candy Ice Jewelry 906 Carmen Jewellery 1025 Casting House 609 CBE -Christian Bourdin Enterprises 809 Chamilia 731 Christelle Ltd. 747 Colombian Emeralds / Jady Jewelry 315 Comex 829 Cristina Sabatini 1029 Diamond Bourse of Canada 1031 Diamond Development Initiative 901 Diamond Trading Company 806 Diamport Corp 606 DNR Diamonds 1040 Dolce Amor 903 Embix Watch Co 719 Ethan Stars 725 Eugene Gem 509 European Design 808 Five Star Gold Inc 744 Fossil, Canada 727 Gemkid 1009 Gemological Institute of America 915 Gemsparkle Ltd 1011 Gemvision/GV Design, Canada 1017 Gemworld International Inc 715 Gold & Silver House Ltd 525 H & S Jewelry 1005 Halia 1019 IGI 1015 Imperial Color Diamonds Inc. 1006 ION-Ray Co Ltd 515 Ital Inc, Can 402 Italgem Inc 1007 Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co

628 Jewelio Design Ltd. 1024 Jewellers Vigilance, Canada 1028 Jewellery Business Magazine 309 John’s Wholesale Jewellery Ltd 736 Keith Jack Inc 403 KIN Chong Gems & Jewellery Inc, Canada 407 Knightsbridge Jewelry 1037 Laserstar Technologies Corp 930 Lashbrook Designs 534 Legrand Jewellery (Mfg) Co. Ltd 501 Lily Jewellery Manufacturing 830 Livingstone Jewelry Co Inc 528 Lotus Jewellery Ltd 835 Low Cost Luxury/Low Cost Leader 507 Magnum Creations Inc 435 Mary Jewellery & Lapidary 803 Master Design Jewellery Ltd 826 Matla Beneficiation Company 319 Midas Gold 846 Modern Art Jewelers Inc 316 Navron Trade 406 Northam Diamonds Mfg & Trading 637 Olympus Innov-X 401 PAJ, Canada 644 Phosphor Watches / On Tap Resources Ltd. 639 Polypearl Canada Co 907 Prestige Inc, Pak 529 Purely Pearls FZE 1027 Rapaport 531 Rebeau Jewellery (H.K.) Ltd 619 Ritone Ltd, Canada 914 S. Vinodkumar USA, Inc. 707 SOTHIL Inc. 929 Schindler Technologies Corporation/Solidscape, Inc. 314 Seoidin 418 SHAMA AKHTAR TRADING CO.,LTD 334 Shameer Gems & Global Mobile Center 819 Shiny Jewellers 928 Silver Queen Gems & Jewelers 718 Silver Trendz 322 Silvia Jewellery 925 SimplexDiam 415 SK Diamonds 506 Sonette 524 Standout Design 1008 Stuller Inc 420 TAKA Jewellery Pte. Ltd 924 Tatiana Jewellery Design Inc. 1021 United Precious Metals 834 Valentine Jewelry 824 Vivian Jewelry 425 Watier Findings/Meridian Jewellery 615 Zeghani by Simon G 1001 Zinzi Silver 427 AVS Group 310 I.D.D. 640 INOX JEWELLERY CANADA

Exhibitor list as of July 2012

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AIR WALL

Palladium 847 20'

VIP Lounge

Restaurant Lounge

951

450

FHC UP

UP UP

UP

STAIRS # 24

UP UP

855

856

PM

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857

PM STAIRS # 23

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SHOW MANAGER OFFICE

866 FHC

O/H DOOR

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O/H DOOR

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JCK TORONTO 2012 METRO TORONTO CONVENTION CENTRE LEVEL 800 - EXHIBIT LEVEL www.canadianjeweller.com

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Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 2012 August 17 to 19 | Shaw Conference Centre 613 925 solutions 921 A & h jewellery 128 Adler jewellery wholesale (valente) 324 Affordable creations TABLE A Arms 409 Atlantic engraving ltd 108 Avs group 317 B & s (canada) inc 919 Banda swiss 512 Bcouture (shiny jewellers) 808 Bell diamonds international 523, 622 Best bargains 105, 107, 304, 306 Beverly hills jewellers 805, 807 Bfly 405, 407, 504, 506 Bk jewellery 717 Canadian gemological laboratory cgl TABLE C Canadian jewellers association Canadian jewellery magazine 829,928 Carmen 713, 715, 812, 814 C.b.e. Inc 508 Celebrity watch international 513, 515 Chamilia, llc 122 Concept marketing inc 505, 507, 509, 604, 606, 608 Corona Design Centre 8 Craving color 617, 716 Customgold/courtney gold 126 Diaco inc 116 Dian creations 1004 Embix watch importing co 100, 102 Empress 712, 714 Ethan stars - creation le grenier ltd 416 European design jewellery ltd 124 Focus business management intitute 621, 720 Gem connection 813, 815 Gemsparkle ltd/praash jewels inc 709 Gem vision / gv design canada 609, 708 Gm gold & diamonds 1024, 1026 Gold & silver house 109 Greenwood general insurance 901, 901 A Gunther mele 817, 916 House of jewellery 308 Idd 422 Igc brand services canada div northam diamonds 422 925 Instant gold refining inc 118 Intermerge canada inc 125 International gemological institute - igi TABLE B Jewelers mutual insurance company 721, 723 Jewelhouse canada TABLE D Jewellers vigilance canada (jvc) 825,924 Jewelmark canada inc Design Centre 7 Jewels by amy 121, 123, 320, 322 J ifrah group / thomas sabo 117, 312, 314, 316 John’s wholesale jewelry 113, 114, 115, 905, 907 J.w. Histed diamonds/j.w. Findings & stones

Design Centre 3 Kabana 809, 908 Karat imports ltd 1006 Kin chong gems & jewellery (canada) inc 517, 616 Korite 315 Lashbrook 120 Lc diamonds inc / dalumi group 309, 408 Libman and co 614 Livingstone jewelry co, inc 423 Lotus jewellery 514 Madani 415 Maria cristina sterling / cerelli jewellers inc 305, 307, 404, 406 Master design 522 Maximum brilliance canadian diamonds 820 Meira t.

313, 412 Midore inc 325 Mj wilman inc 705, 707, 804, 806 O’neill diamonds inc 1028, 1030 Ottimo creations inc 609, 708 Paj canada / elle jewelry 421, 520 Paragems 623 Persona 913, 915 Pmg marketing inc 914 Polygon 912 Premier pearl & gem co ltd 323 Purely pearls 612 Rembrandt charms 822, 824 Rodania canada inc 909, 911 Rousseau chain ltd 917 Silverman chapman reece consulting 414 Silver trendz 1000 Skagen designs ltd 605, 607, 704, 706 Sk diamonds Design Centre 6 So pretty jewelry by cara cotter 821, 920, 922 Sothil inc 816 Spectrum imports inc 1002 Standout design 321 Studio pink inc 904, 906 Stuller 615 T & t jewellers inc 420 Tatiana jewellery design inc 417, 516 Tecimer jewellery limited 625 Tresor paris 927 Tri-d-fx security & alarms Design Centre 1 Tukker trading 424 United pmr 521, 620 Van dan associates inc Design Centre 2 Vivian’s jewelry 104, 106 Waldman diamond canada ltd 725 Watier findings inc / josef elias 722, 724 Weizmann jewellery group 929 Wingenback inc 413 Zeghani by simon

Exhibitor list as of July 2012

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tradeshowguide Aisle Size: As Noted Booth Size: 170 - 10'x10'

128

4

8

SHOW OFFICE

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928

725

822

920

829

August 17-19, 2012 Shaw Conference Centre - Halls BC

1032 PAJ CANADA/ ELLE JEWELRY 5

724

723

821

1030

Western Canadian Jewellery Expo FOOD COURT

1

625

722

820

1006

623

721

1004

622

720

1002

523

621

927

522

620

1000 DESIGN CENTRE LOUNGE

424 423 521

126 325 422 520

7

324 323 421

6

125 322 420

3

124 123 321

2

122 320

116 115

117

312

314

316

313

315

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412

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512

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612

614

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712

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812

814

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813

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912

914

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915

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114 113

108 107

109 306

308

307

309

406

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409

506

508

505

507

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604

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704

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106

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305

110

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118

121

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120

displays

304

TABLE B

105

TABLE A

104 102 100

ENTRANCE

9 5 0 5 - 4 1 Ave Edmonton, Alberta T6E 5X7 Tel: 7 8 0 4 2 6 2 2 1 1 Fax: 7 8 0 4 2 6 5 7 3 4

File Name: western cdn jewellery 2012-halls BC-3.dwg

SHO W SERVICES LTD

Rev: April 17, 2012

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EXPO PRESTIGE 2012 August 26 to 28 | Palais des Congres

105 Continental Geneve 105 Danish Design 105 Delmar 105 Ed Hardy 105 Embix Cie D’Importation de Montres 105 Fila 105 Hush Puppies 105 Just Cavalli 105 Miss Sixty 105 Monnaie Royale Canadienne 105 Roberto Cavalli 105 Royal Canadian Mint 105 Storm London 111 Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery (Canada) Inc. 119 Canadian Jeweller 119 CJM 121 Hevelius Corporation 121 Venice Spells 127 Sassounian Mtl., Inc. Tools and Supplies 201 Standout Design 205 Mabensa Inc. 211 Ital Can Inc. 211 Neos 211 Royal Chain 211 Vogue Jewellery Design 212 Jewellery Business 212 Jewellery Business 214 Augenstern Hair Diamonds 214 Diamant Augenstern 214 Diamant de cheveux Augenstern 218 Best Bargains 218 Jewels by Anita 219 Begli 219 Flica Inc. 221 Jewellers Vigilance Canada 221 Joailliers Vigilance du Canada Inc. 221 JVC 223 Prestige Pak Inc. 227 Tamar 231 Benjamin Jacques 231 Jacques Benjamin 300 Banda Alarm Clocks 300 Banda Bracelets 300 Banda Collection 300 Banda Horloges 300 Banda Swiss 300 Bandini 300 Energizer 300 Omorfia 300 Q & Q 300 Renata 305 AIE 305 Aréli Design 305 Aréli Ltée 311 BCBG Maxazria 311 Carmen & Co. Inc. 311 Cat 311 D&G - Time & Jewels 311 Ferragamo 311 Kenneth Cole New York 311 Kenneth Cole Swiss 311 Morellato 311 Moschino Chic and Cheap Time 311 Relax By Tommy Bahama 311 Tommy Bahama

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311 Valentino 311 Versace 315 Affordable Creations 319 Almar Jewellery Inc. 319 Bijouterie Almar Inc. 320 Carmen & Co. Inc. 323 Image Design Jewellery Inc. 327 Celtic Collection 327 Gem Drops 327 Ice 925 327 Kameleon 327 Lotus Jewellery Ltd. 327 Mirage 330 Assurances G. Gosselin Ltée 405 Adora 405 Créations Malo Inc. 405 Malo 405 Prestige 410 Bfly 410 Butterfly Gem Collection Inc. 410 Collection Papillon Gemme Inc. 410 Papillon Gemme 411 Promo Inc. 414 Zeghani by Simon G 415 Atlantic Engraving Ltd. 415 Gravure Atlantic Ltée 419 Canadian Certified Gold 419 Corona Jewellery Company 419 Diamant Canadien 419 Diamants en Fête 419 I Am Canadian 419 Maple Leaf Diamonds 421 Valentine Jewellery 422 E.B.S. Machinerie Inc. 422 Machinerie E.B.S. Inc. 423 Eugene Gem, Inc. 427 Interchic 427 Sephora 427 Silver & Co. Inc. 431 Québec Fonte Inc. 501 Opera Diamond Ltée 505 Amore & Baci 505 Émotion 505 Five Star Gold 505 Tech-Émotion Inc. 510 Cobalt Chromo 510 Comete Gioielli 510 ID-Xchange 510 Infinity Titanium 510 Italgem Steel 510 Italgem Tungsten 511 CBE Inc. 511 Christian Bourdin Entreprises 515 Biarritz 515 Black Dice 515 Caprice 515 Cardinal 515 Citadel 515 Elite 515 Orient 515 Sony Batteries 515 Swank 515 Wenger Swiss-Steel 515 Wenger’s Ltd. 515 X Games 522 Bcouture

522 Shiny Jewellers 527 Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg. Ltd 605 Ève 605 RMR Inc. 611 BKJ Canada 611 Hera’s 611 Lady Dream 619 Aquaseal 619 Flair 619 Nona 619 Rodania 619 Rodania Canada Inc. 619 Rodastar 619 Swiss Chic 631 Barcelona 631 Ice Watch 631 L’Orée du Fleuve 631 Lotus - Montre 631 Montre Lotus 631 Romance 631 Sissi 700 Gaby 700 Manufacturier de bijoux Gaby Inc. 701 Re-Defined ™ Enviromentally Responsible 701 Silvadium ™ Sterling Silver Grain 701 Sterlium Plus ™ Sterling Silver Grain 701 Sterlium ™ Sterling Silver Grain 701 United Precious Metal Refining Inc. 701 Zing - Premium 18K White Gold Grain 705 SK Diamonds USA 706 ELLE Jewelry 706 ELLE Time 706 ELLE Time & Jewelry (PAJ Canada) 706 PAJ Canada Company /ELLE Jewelry 711 A.R.Z. Crystals 711 A.R.Z. Jewellery Collections 711 A.R.Z. Steel 711 Arezzo 711 Arezzo Inc. 711 CAI Jewels 718 GemVision/GV Design Canada 719 Bacio 719 Bijouterie J. Ifrah Ltée 719 D. For Diamonds 719 Elements 719 Ifrah 719 Michel Herbelin 719 Sector - Montres 719 Téno 719 Thomas Sabo Bijoux 719 Thomas Sabo Charm Club 719 Thomas Sabo Montres 719 TSMI Ltd. 719 Zoppini - Bijoux 719 Zoppini Canada 720 Paragems 723 Majesté 723 Polypearl (Canada) Company 727 Casio 727 Connoisseurs 727 Energizer 727 Groupe Courchesne 727 Hirsch 727 Sabona 727 Zinzi 730 La Petite

730 Livingstone Jewelry Co. Inc. 731 Distribution Voltimage Inc. 731 Samuel Bouki 731 Voltimage Inc. 805 Charles Garnier Paris 805 Edward Mirell 805 Maurice Lacroix 805 Pesavento 805 Sothil 805 Vahan Jewelry 805 Welder by U-Boat 810 Arctic Fox ™ Anti Tarnish Silver 810 Butterfly ™ Recycled Precious Metals 810 Orca ™ Bonded Rings and Tube 810 Ready Stock ™ 810 Umicore Precious Metals Canada Inc. 811 Halia 811 Halia Charms 811 Halia Jewelry 811 Metalsmiths Sterling 811 Notes by Halia 811 Petals by Halia 814 CFM Production Ltd. / Madani 814 Madani 815 Bijoux RNB 815 RNB Jewellery 819 Axcent of Scandinavia 819 Boccia Titanium 819 Céline Dion 819 Céline Dion (Montres) 819 Charles P. Bahringer 819 La Bréa Int’l / Steelx 819 Steelx 822 Ritone (Canada) Ltd. 827 Miss Mimi 830 Skagen Designs Ltd. 904 European Design Jewellery Ltd. 905 Eloquence 905 Giorgio Martello 905 Harmony Silver 905 Inuit Ice 905 Libman Co. /Division of Martin Group Inc. 905 Martin Ross Group Inc. /Master Design 905 Master Design 905 MDJ Bridal Collection 905 Mon premier diamant 905 My First Diamond 905 Odyssey 905 Persona 905 Tresor Paris 911 Création Le Grenier Ltée.

911 Ethan Stars 911 Hoxton London 911 Le Grenier 913 Sindbad Inc. 918 Raquelle Bianco Canada by Empress 919 Chrysos (925 silver chain made in Italy) 919 Gold & Silver House Ltd. 919 Lunica (925 silver and stainless steel selection) 922 B & S (Canada) Inc. 922 Max Strauss 922 Signature Collection

Exhibitor list as of July 2012

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KNEW CONCEPT JEWELERS SAW FRAMES

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We will be Showcasing a live demonstration of the most innovative, latest technology Tools & Equipment in the industry at the following events: 

DURSTON ROLLING MILLS

Upcoming Events: JCK TORONTO 2012:

August 12-14 2012 Metro Toronto Convention Center T

EXPO PRESTIGE 2012:

August 26-28 2012 Palais des Congrès de Montréal Findings

12-06-27 9:59 AM

For details, write #137 on Free Info Page, page 145

GRS GRAVERMACH AT

ntréal

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For details, write #137 on Free Info Page, page 145

12:

H The

EDINBURGH Jewelry Box Collection

CJAPR2012_DOCKET_ADVERTISER_PRODUCT_FP.indd 21

by

www.noblepack.com

12-07-03 8:37 AM

Optimizing

spacemanagement

To get the best return on your investment, you need a balance of density, comfort and aesthetics

By Todd Wasylyshyn

W

hether you’re paying sky-high lease rates for prime retail space on Bloor Street in Toronto or own a false-fronted clapboard building on 50th Street just off 50th Avenue in a small prairie town, you no doubt want to make the most profitable use of your available square footage. The left brain thinker calculates maximization. The right brain thinker envisions optimization.

The reality is that a balance of density, comfort and aesthetics are all required for a great return on your investment.

Michael Clarke has been an executive for Peoples, Birks, Baily Banks & Biddle and Stuller, and has also run his own independent retail store, Bentley & Clarke, in Toronto.

retail space

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When asked about managing retail space, reflecting on four decades in the industry, he says, “My international travels have confirmed my impression that as an industry we are dragging down the experience for our customers. Great opportunity awaits those who spoil their guests!”

You or your predecessor may have started out wanting 1,400 square feet of retail space on a prime corner of the busiest shopping mall. The reality is that due to lease budgets, development costs, inheritance, timing and/or availability, you have the size, shape and location that fate has handed you.

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 11:13 AM

For details, write #138 on Free Info Page, page 145

Canadian Distributor Lumigem Canada Inc. 1-800-265-4274 www.lumigem.ca

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spacemanagement

Here are five principles you can use to make the best of your store space: Principle #1 - Highlight your brand

In Clarke’s words, “Once the point of brand differentiation on the store is understood, the majority of space should support that message.”

Brand differentiation refers to the one big advantage that you have over your immediate competition. You might devote your inventory, marketing and merchandising to Canadian diamonds, bridal jewellery, fashion accessories, cutting-edge jewellery design or watches.

Whatever you’ve selected as your niche, it should be evident in your product placement, your visuals and, of course, your inventory.

Clarke even goes so far as to suggest that 40-50 per cent of your floor space and visuals should reflect your prime product. I know many jewellers feel that in their market, they’re expected to carry a wide variety of merchandise for all occasions, all tastes and budgets. However, in larger centres and in the world in general, retail businesses are becoming more niche-oriented, not less. This is why the word “branding” has remained such a strong buzzword in recent years.

Robin Dawe of Richardson’s Goldsmiths in Medicine Hat, Alberta recently

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completed a beautiful renovation. While improving from 67 to 88 linear feet of showcase space within their 960 sq. ft. show-floor, he was also able to build a whole new focus.

“A key decision moving forward helped,” he says. “Removing giftware from our merchandising strategy allowed us to redesign that up-front space. This led to more branded diamond ring and diamond jewellery lines, which have helped propel us to increased sales and profit even within recessionary times.”

Dawe combined a reconfiguration with a brand-centred focus to create lifechanging results.

Principle #2 – Visual accessibility

Traditional horizontal show-beds are by far the norm for jewellers across Canada. Some of the most charming classical stores have beautiful hardwood wall-cases fronted by massive counter-weighted sashes. These worked best when shoppers would go into a store and their first thought was to approach a staff member to explain their need. The shopkeeper would rummage around in drawers, cases and shelves and come up with the perfect solution.

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 11:13 AM

Specializing in Natural Fancy Color Diamonds & Fine Jewellery!

For details, write #139 on Free Info Page, page 145

Single Natural Fancy Color Stones from .50 carat and up in Yellow, Pink, Blue, Green and more (All certified G.I.A) STOCK# HB/1293 HB/1299 HB/K/1309 HB/1298 HB/F/1101 HB/R/1312 HB/K/1310 HB/1301 HB/K/1311 HB/K-1278 HB/K-1239 HB/1302 HB/K/1241 HB/K/1240 HB/K/1277 HB/1313 HB/1314 HB/K/1306 HB/F/1290 HB/K/1307 HB/S/1287 HB/K/1315 HB/K/1288 HB/R/1289 HB/K/1316 HB/K/1317 HB/K/1318 HB/K/1263 HB//1195 HB/1280 HB/K/1259 HB/K/1260 HB/1319 HB/1282 HB/S/1284

SHAPE RAD RAD RAD RAD RBC RAD RAD RAD RAD RAD RAD CUSH CUSH RAD CUSH CUSH CUSH RAD CUSH RAD CUSH CUSH RAD RAD CUSH CUSH RAD CUSH EC CUSH PEAR CUSH RAD OVAL RAD

CARAT 0.51 1.02 1.02 1.03 1.05 1.09 1.22 1.34 1.43 1.46 1.51 1.53 1.57 1.57 2.01 2.14 2..22 3.08 3.14 3.56 4.01 5.03 5.05 5.95 6.08 7.08 8.51 0.54 0.50 1.02 1.18 1.57 0.81 1.00 1.74

COLOR FIY FIY FCY FVY FCY FVY FCY FIY FIY FIY FCY FIY FCY FCY FCY FIY FIY FCY FCY FCY FIY FCY FCY FIY FCY FCY FVY F/PUR/PINK F/PUR/PINK F/PUR/PINK F/I/PINK F/PUR/P F/BLUE F/I/BLUE F/L/BLUE

CLARITY SI1 SI1 SI1 VS1 H/C IF SI1 VVS2 VS1 VS1 IF SI2 IF IF VS2 IF IF IF VVS2 IF VS2 VS2 SI1 IF IF VS1 IF VS2 H/C SI1 H/C HC IF IF IF

DIMENSIONS 4.96*4.04*2.79 5.44*5.22*3.78 5.72*4.95*3.71 5.98*5.18*3.52 6.67*6.70*3.99 6.38*5*3.45 5.74*5.54*3.87 6.63*6.06*3.7 6.26*6.25*4.04 6.08*5.93*4.03 6.70*6.15*4.06 6.37*6.34*4.17 6.31*5.97*4.31 6.29*6.23*4.19 7.32*7.20*4.36 7.62*5.68*4.56 7.66*6.53*4.71 8.22*7.82*5.23 7.93*7.89*5.33 8.43*8.09*5.41 9.61*8.78*5.57 9.49*9.39*6 9.12*9.02*6.28 10.84*10.18*6.03 11.12*9.26*6.33 12.35*9.31*6.73 11.92*10.53*7.08 4.98*4.26*2.89 5.34*3.86*2.57 5.95*5.36*3.61 7.62*5.39*3.74 7.03*6.62*4.05 5.69*5.50*3.07 8.70*6.46*2.48 6.91*6.82*4.32

LAB GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA GIA

DEPTH 69.1 72.4 74.9 67.9

TABLE 59 62 67 69

GIRDLE TK-ETK ETN-TK M-EXT TK-VTK

POL VG VG G G

SYM G G G G

FLOUR N MB F F

69 69.9 61.1 64.6 68 66.1 65.7 72.2 67.2 60.6 69.3 72.1 66.8 67.6 66.9 63.5 63.9 69.6 59.2 68.3 72.3 67.3 67.9

73 68 71 57 69 74 59 67 68 65 67 67 65 60 71 61 68 68 72 64 61 65 66

67.3

60

VTK STK-EXTK ETK VTK-ETK ETK VTK-XTK TK-ETK ETN-TK TK-XTK ETN-ETK VTK-ETK VTN-ETK M-VTK VTK-ETK VTK M-VTK TN-ETK STK-VTK VTN-ETK VTK-ETK STK-EXTK VTK-EXTK TN-VTK STK-ETK STK-XTK

G G EX G VG VG EX VG VG G G G VG EX EX VG VG G G VG VG VG G VG VG

VG G G G G G G G G VG G G G VG VG G VG G G G G G G G G

MB N MB N S N N N N N F MB N F S N S N N N N N S N N

55.7 38.4 63.4

73 70 60

TN-ETK VTK-ETK

G VG VG

G G G

N N N

PRICE

Please call us for the price

PLEASE VISIT US: JCK TORONTO, BOOTH NO: 1015 AUGUST 12, 2012 - AUGUST 14, 2012 Tel: (416) 363-2111 Fax: (416) 363-1349 Toll Free: 1-866-211-7778 www.imperialcolordiamonds.com hossein@imperialcolordiamonds.com 55 Queen Street East, Suite 1209, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5C 1R6

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12-06-26 4:51 PM

spacemanagement

“Whether the shopping experience is for a gift or self purchase, the environment must support an emotional moment.”

Many contemporary shoppers have already scouted items of interest on the Internet and come into the store looking for that product first. Wall cases separated from such a consumer could be a point of frustration, and they might resent the necessity of interacting with you to find what they came for.

“Generally, showcases tend to require a sales associate; whereas towers, wall cases, even spinners allow the guest to become interactive with the presentation—a great sales opportunity opener,” says Clarke.

Even though modern consumers are taking the initiative to learn a bit before they come see a bricks-and-mortar jeweller, we don’t want to turn our stores into self-serve kiosks. We do want to ease in the direction of visual accessibility to make this type of shopper feel more empowered.

have to condense any product in your store, make sure you do so with items that are secondary.

Principle #4 – Space is luxury

The more luxurious your product is, the more open space is appropriate for displaying it. According to Michael Clarke, “Space is the ultimate luxury.… While there is an inclination to use every square foot of leased space, claustrophobia is a common concern. Clutter causes a sense of chaos that is distracting in a luxury environment.”

You may not currently be a carriage-trade store, but if you want to become one, your next renovation should move you closer to open spaces, private viewing areas and a lavishly comfortable shopping experience.

Principle #5 – Optimize administrative space

Principle #3 – Attractive Configurations

From time to time, when I worked for People’s, the company would issue new plan-o-grams to organize each showcase, and we’d have to reconfigure the showcases to match the sketches supplied. They have professional merchandisers who coordinate these plan-o-grams according to tried and true principles.

In general, these decorators tend to work in low pyramids with highlighted merchandise at the top (towards the back of the showcase,) stepping down to related items, often in groups and facing forward. This forces the consumer to completely focus on one pyramid at a time, and then move laterally to the next pyramid to soak in the next “bevy of bobbles.”

Wayne Fisher, owner of Richardson’s Jewellery in Lloydminster, Alberta, who came out of the Peoples organization, comments: “Have one major colour of displays in your showcase with max of two accent colours dispersed throughout the showcase. Adding two or three bases of the same colour can add height, which gives a smooth look.”

Tying into Principle #1 of highlighting your brand, you want to make sure that the most important product category is given adequate space. If you

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Selling is the number one function of a jewellery store. All of your emphasis should be on creating ample room to display, merchandise, demonstrate and sell jewellery. Accounting, shipping, receiving, wrapping and ringing up the sale are all critical tasks. Given a limited amount of space, you’ll need to increase the efficient use of your administrative areas.

• Raise or eliminate a suspended ceiling in your back office in order to maximize vertical storage spaces.

• Eliminate superfluous archives, seldom used equipment and clutter from expensive lease space.

• Label every storage space, and re-label constantly to ensure order.

Clarke says that the disciplined use of a consultation area on the show floor can enable busy-work—as long as you can neatly stash your work and give immediate and undivided attention to your next valued visitor. These efforts will enable you to create a most inviting, comfortable environment for your valued clients.

“Jewellery is about romance,” says Clarke. “Whether the shopping experience is for gift or self purchase, the environment must support an emotional moment.” [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 11:13 AM

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12-06-27 9:32 AM

newgeneration

U SHAKEABLE

Part 3 s e r i e s a of a b n e w ge n o u t t h e era of jewell tion e rs

FOUNDATION Although the faces of the industry are changing, the core values remain the same

by Jeff Elliott

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W

ith the boisterous rise of new technology and socially networked consumers, industry leaders are polishing their businesses to ensure they maintain a competitive edge—and who better to add that extra spark than their own offspring?

While their predecessors may have had the savvy to start the businesses from scratch, the new generation of jewellers, who find themselves engulfed by new-age technology, have developed the qualities necessary to keep business models fresh and attuned to the new customer. By navigating the changing retail environment, young jewellers are able to pave their own creative path without veering from the foundation built by their elders.

Since his first year of university, 31-year-old Andrew Foster has been actively involved in the establishment his grandfather Jack Foster founded in the 1940s. While his duties have drastically changed, climbing the ranks from glass cleaner to leader of the sales team, Foster has never lost sight of how he can incorporate his Bachelor of Management and love of art into Lethbridge-based Foster & Sons Jewellers Ltd., owned by his father Neil.

“Ultimately, what attracted me to the business was the link between commerce and art: the mystique of rare and precious gems and metals,” says Foster. “I find it romantic, and I am very honoured to be able to be part of a business that celebrates and beautifies rare natural treasures, creating family heirlooms, that not only transfers large sums of monetary wealth across generations but irreplaceable emotional time capsules as well.”

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 3:14 PM

newgeneration

Hooked at 18

Production manager of Montreal-based Canadian Gem, the country’s leading pearl distributor, Arka Akkelian, 28, attended his first trade show at the age of 18 and was hooked from the get-go.

“It’s a very interesting domain,” he says. “You’re dealing with something that isn’t a necessity, so the psychology of it was something I found very intriguing… why people would pay thousands of dollars for a tiny little rock.”

his company were able to stay ahead of the game, and they created their own brand called NISHI. This launched last year at the Jewelers’ Circular Keystone trade show.

“Because of the recession a few years back, the market has moved to slightly lower-end goods, especially with the price of diamonds and gold skyrocketing,” he says. “We launched this brand to fill a gap we didn’t necessarily fill before.”

Younger consumers

Psychology aside, the company founded by his father Pierre and Uncle Papken is a prime example of a business with a sturdy premise, whose mechanics have proven advantageous and prosperous since conception.

NISHI caters to the company’s younger, trend-seeking consumer, providing good quality silver and fashion-forward styles at a price that won’t empty wallets.

“They’ve been doing things in a certain way for 30 years and, obviously, it’s worked,” says Akkelian. “Their way is proven, and I have a strong respect for that.”

Kent Heinrichs of Saskatoon-based Heinrichs Jewellery is also one step ahead of the game.

Respectful of heritage

Thriving as a creative individual in a family-built business isn’t always easy. Significant footing in the industry requires a mindful sense of growth opportunities that are inventive, yet respectful of the industry’s heritage.

It is with this sensibility of anticipating modern trends that Akkelian and

Sam Chmielash

“As my business experience grew, I was given more latitude in decision making. I began to see that the commercial jewellery category was saturated and that our best opportunity for growth lay in offering a higher quality branded product,” declares Heinrichs. “The majority of my parents’ generation understands this, but it has been my generation that has truly embraced it.”

Arka Akkelian

www.canadianjeweller.com

098-0102.CJ_NewGeneration.indd 109

| August 2012

CJ

109

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newgeneration

spin—breathing life into an old-style trade,” he says. “Our success is based on our philosophy, and my everyday mantra of treating the business like a brotherhood.”

Adapting to this changing and modernized environment does not mean impeding the introduction of trendier pieces for younger consumers. If anything, opening up a community where information is comfortably shared, especially through online formats, benefits the industry by making businesses more present and available to a wider array of people.

“Retailers, jewellery manufacturers and, in some cases, other diamond dealers forget that we can only succeed if they succeed; therefore, I go out of my way to empower them,” states Chmielash.

Social networking

With the importance of collaboration, tapping into the realm of social networking is key to growth in the new age of technology. Whether a business has been around for decades, or is brand new, the more connections made, the better.

“The Internet and social media have become an integral part of virtually every successful business—to ignore this fact will ultimately end in lost market share,” says Heinrichs.

Kent Heinrichs After his parents retire, Heinrichs plans on continuing the vision they have worked so hard to develop together, stating: “Their true legacy will endure through them having given me the tools to not just survive, but to seek out and thrive in an age of the declining independent jeweller.”

While the need to become more present online is obvious, there are some hesitations surrounding the move to nontraditional methods of exposure— especially if the traditional still works in their favour. Chmielash, for instance, finds communication through online trade-only forums more beneficial for his business than a Twitter feed, and Foster is focusing more on creating a website that can sell.

As the jewellery industry enters the new realm of connectivity, collaboration is key. While the industry, for decades, has been moulded by a mentality of privacy and individualism, it’s steadily becoming less secretive and more cooperative.

“It will be a key link for us in helping create a unique and memorable purchasing experience,” says Foster. “It will also make our brand interesting to people in a genuine way that isn’t forced.”

Collaboration

Undeniable passion

While Sam Chmielash, 29, doesn’t have any generational roots in the jewellery industry, it is through family associations, personal drive and his own sense of collaboration that he has secured a spot in the trade.

After recognizing that family friend and owner of the Montreal-based business MSD Gem Lab Co. Steven Davidovics was struggling with his establishment, Chmielash knew it was time to get his foot in the door and help out.

The real key to success in this business doesn’t lie in the number of Twitter followers or Facebook likes obtained. It’s about undeniable passion, building life-long customers and being behind a product that, new or old, is inherently valuable.

“After long talks and much discussion, I came on board as a consultant and crafted a short-term strategy to resurrect the company and develop a new

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“My grandfather, my father and my brother and I have always treated business the same,” says Foster. “We have some unshakable foundations that cover respect, uniqueness, integrity, and trust; the business and industry can change as much as it wants, but we will always have those pillars that we run the store on.” [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 3:15 PM

For details, write #141 on Free Info Page, page 145 CJAPR2012_DOCKET_ADVERTISER_PRODUCT_FP.indd 19

12-06-26 5:05 PM

newgeneration

Two generations of selling romance The Roset family have worked together to transform their business into a successful wholesale operation

By E. Z. Guler-Tuck A self-proclaimed “overnight success, 40 years in the making,” Duane Roset, owner and founder of ROSET by Reid, has proven that it takes a whole lot of hard work, and a bunch of confident and capable family members to build a jewellery business in Canada.

Originally conceived in 1948, the Roset family business really took off in 1979 when Roset, a native of Estevan, Saskatchewan, packed up the family and moved to Medicine Hat, Alberta.

There

he

founded

Jewellery

Warehouse,

and began to expand the retail platform so it quickly grew to include 15 stores across Western Canada.

Resurrecting retail The ‘90s saw many businesses in a financial rut, and during that time, the Roset family was faced with a decision to shut down or scale back and transform this retail-driven business into a prominent wholesaler and brand name.

“Across the country, a lot of jewellery stores went through a tough period,” says Roset.

“There was no other option, you had to either shrink or drown. Basically, it was over that period that we were building our wholesale division. The retail division had done well, but Chelsea Roset Siggelkow, Marilyn Roset and Duane Roset

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we didn’t count on it as a major part of the business.”

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 9:28 AM

newgeneration

Eventually, the flagship store was saved, the Roset Amore Diamond was born

media, with a focus on understanding their target demographic,” notes

and the wholesale division soon became ROSET’s main breadwinner.

Roset Siggelkow.

Some businesses would have buckled after having to downsize their

Loose diamonds and engagement rings are what ROSET does best. In terms

business. The Roset family were able to change this obstacle into an

of trends, “it used to be that customers would spend a larger percentage of

opportunity by developing their wholesale division while retaining the best

their budget on the centre stone and less on the mount itself. On average

parts of their retail side.

[they used to put] about 80 per cent toward the centre stone, 20 per cent to the mount. Now it is more common for a customer to come in asking for a

“We own the building that we’re in. From that perspective, [owning the

specific bridal brand, knowing the mount will command closer to 50 per cent

building the store is in is] probably the reason why we kept the retail division

of their budget,” says Roset Siggelkow.

going. If we had to rent in a mall or something like that, it wouldn’t be as interesting or profitable,” explains Roset.

Next generation One of the fundamental pillars of many Canadian businesses in the jewellery

Saving the retail side has been rewarding, though it hasn’t exactly been a

industry is family. Therefore, it is commonplace for owners to pass their

walk in the park for the Roset family. “Retail is a difficult business. It is not an

companies down to their offspring. ROSET is one of the few companies that

easy business, and lots of people are scrambling, trying to make it, especially

is characterized as “family-owned and operated.”

the second generation, are trying to make it. The issue facing a store today is always a cash, liquidity problem,” says Roset.

While the pros are infinite for operating a company where your family members are your employees, it does have its fair share of cons. “Family

The challenges Roset faced with retail were significantly alleviated when his

relationships are sometimes difficult. When you are not making money, you

daughter Chelsea Roset Siggelkow embraced the company business as

fight, when you are making money, you fight,” says Roset with a chuckle.

head of the retail division.

However, having both son and daughter embrace the family business was Staying connected

a blessing for the family. “When Chelsea and Tyson joined the business,

The Internet has taken many retailers for a ride; some have adapted to the

they certainly wanted to make a living and excel, but it wasn’t just about the

ever-changing face of the industry and consumer profiles, while others have

money. If life is just about the money, you’re not going to be happy,” he says.

not. “The Internet is so spectacularly profound, you cannot underestimate [it].

That being said, it’s a lot about ‘where’s your credit card, send us the money,

As to why Roset Siggelkow chose the family business, she says: “I decided

get it done.’ Our business was traditionally about love and romance,

to get involved in the family business because of family. My parents are two

seeing a young couple come in and helping them with their romance.

of my best friends. They have worked for everything they have. Knowing

When the personal jeweller gets into his head that he is selling romance

success is given to those who push the hardest is motivating. Having some

and not just a diamond, the customer that comes into his store feels

little part in such an exciting time in their lives was a natural progression into

like a person rather than just an IP address,’” explains Roset.

the family business.”

Roset Siggelkow’s fresh take on the challenges of retail and the role of the

Keeping the family together through the ebbs and flows of the market seems

Internet highlight the importance of education. “One of the most dramatic

to have been a triumph on its own.

changes since Dad started out 4O or so years ago is the reality of retail having to compete with Internet sales,” she says. “Knowing how to navigate

“Feeling any amount of security in the service you provide in today’s

and compete for those sales has, in some ways, changed the way we sell. As

economy is attractive. People will always be getting engaged. Always be

retailers, we have to stay a step ahead on our education, know the answers

getting married. We are a unique business. We understand both the retail

before the questions are asked.”

and wholesale side of the business. Our understanding has helped us carve out a niche for ourselves. Essentially, what we are selling is romance.

Trends on the horizon

Whether it be retail or wholesale. That is how we view what we do,” notes

Branded jewellery was in its infancy when ROSET became the first Veraggio

Roset Siggelkow.

dealer in Canada in 2005. Today ROSET boasts the newly acquired Venetti line of engagement rings and products, among others.

With a strong foundation and a heavy foot on the gas pedal—a metaphor Roset Siggelkow uses to sum up the company’s business strategy—

“Brand names have forged themselves a heavy position in retail jewellery.

ROSET will carry on making decisions that benefit the family and the

They’re using aggressive marketing, advertisement through social

company alike. [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

098-0102.CJ_NewGeneration.indd 113

| August 2012

CJ

113

12-06-27 3:15 PM

fashionjewellery

Sterling silver and multistone earrings from Boma

Taking the leap into

fashion

FORWARD

Make room for fashion jewellery in storage rooms and profit margins—it’s an attainable alternative to fine jewellery

By Nikki Fotheringham

F

or jewellers, the term “fashion jewellery” conjures up images of sterling silver or plated designs that fuse the traditions of costume jewellery with smarter fashion forward creations.

They have caught on to the fact that costume jewellery is no longer the domain of those who could not afford the “real thing,” since now, it’s a new genre all to its own.

Manufactured with base instead of precious metals, this year’s fashion jewellery is plated with gold, rhodium or silver to give it the appearance of fine or bridge jewellery. Rhinestones, crystals and simulated gemstones abound, and are not made to last as long as precious jewellery.

Sterling silver rhodium plated ELLE “Ambrosia” genuine sky blue topaz and Africa amethyst earrings

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Retailers know that the way to their customer’s hearts is keeping up with what is bold today and minimal tomorrow; however, while staying on top of the ever-changing industry trends is crucial, it comes at a cost. Storage rooms need to be arranged and rearranged to accommodate these high-turnover pieces and existing product lines need to be reassessed in order to make room for this new mix of materials and stones.

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-26 1:55 PM

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CASTING THE NET

With the Internet fuelling the speedy onset of new trends, fashion jewellery is growing in popularity with consumers who traditionally would not have bothered with it.

Suzanne Timmins, Senior Vice President & Fashion Director for the Hudson’s Bay Company, says the Bay has experienced growth in its costume jewellery department. “This commodity continues to trend strongly,” she says. “In the past few years, costume jewellery has become increasingly fashion forward. Innovative designs are coming to the fore, and women desiring quick changes are gravitating towards fun and trendy jewellery.”

In the opinion of Lucy Stein, industrial designer at MCD Pearl Imports, costume jewellery can be made from cheaper materials and has a definite shelf life. “Fashion jewellery encompasses different things, first designer and costume jewellery. Second, designer branded precious jewellery,” she says. To Stein, these two sectors of the fashion industry behave differently in the materials they utilize, and their target consumer. “What I do is use gold, silver and semi-precious stones. Basically, I use less metal.”

POPULARITY CHANGES PERCEPTION

As the popularity of fashion jewellery grows, retailers are noticing that consumers are more open to purchasing the latest fashionable item, as they can now afford to buy an array of “it” items for each season.

This popularity, according to Anita Agrawal, CEO and designer at Best Bargains Jewellery in Toronto, is a benefit to the other, more expensive genres of fashion jewellery. As she sees it, the split between costume and fine jewellery has “introduced [retailers] to a more discerning customer; one who expects a higher standard of quality and value from fine jewellery and who also understands the fun, trendy, temporariness of lower-end fashion jewellery.”

Jennifer Velasquez, designer at Bomasilver, points out that high-end “fashion jewellery can get away with a slightly higher price point because it now has a greater perceived value than it did before.”

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fashionjewellery

Left: Sterling silver rhodium plated ELLE “Ambrosia” circle textured bangle 7” Right: Sterling silver rhodium plated ELLE “Micro Pave” cubic zirconia hoop earrings

Incorporating trends

Eco-friendly fashion in demand

Suzanne Timmins also comments on how costume jewellery fits with the fashion trends we’re seeing this season: “Costume jewellery is essential to the art of dressing up. Getting dressed can be an act of expression, and accessories are part and parcel to this idea. Colour has been a huge fashion story for the past few seasons, and jewellery is no exception. Colour is seen in bold, semi-precious stones and crystals, and even in flat areas created with enamelling techniques or inlays of exotic skins.

Traditionally, fashion jewellery was made from metals such as silver. Today there is a shift to using non-traditional materials. Justine Brooks, new designer on the Vancouver scene, talks about these changes in materials: “Nature in every form is making its way into jewellery and watch design.

From raw crystal structures, bamboo watches to cast-organic objects, nature-inspired jewellery is in demand.”

“We’ve seen a tendency towards glamour and drama, in piles of big, mixed bijoux, and references to ladylike vintage estate jewels in crystals and cameos. Sculptural, graphic shapes are also important. In jewellery, those ideas are played out in baroque swirls, or in minimal, hammered metals.”

On the other end of environmentalism, American designer Kathleen Plate has managed to introduce the idea of “smart glass” jewellery to the runways of LA fashion week. She has effectively used recycled beer, wine, salad dressing and soda bottles to create her jewellery. Her designs have been so successful that they were used as centrepieces at the Sundance Film Festival, and have sparked a partnership with Coke to create a jewellery line for the company.

Fashion blogs

Fashion jewellery and watches are no different from the many other industries that have been affected by the Internet. Blogging, Pinterest, Tumblr, and Facebook have all opened up the discourse between jewellery designers and their customers.

According to Anita Agrawal, to focus on the work itself is the better way to frame and understand the changes that have taken place in the industry over the past five years: “In the past, we could assume that fashion jewellery design had a top-down element, i.e. designs were copied from fashionable designers and mass manufactured as trendy sellers for a quick profit. We can see this in the multitude of knock-off [charm] bracelets. Nowadays, making fashion jewellery can be an option unto itself as designers can afford to be risqué with non-precious metals and stones.”

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Agrawal agrees with the idea of the eco-friendly revolution being a part of future trends: “Fashion jewellery offers some eco-friendly designers options to create and use recycled materials. [They can] play with different materials that aren’t traditionally used in jewellery. I’ve met with designers who make fairly interesting pieces using newspapers, old buttons and even electrical wiring.”

With the inspiration of the industrial and natural world comes a heightened sense of environmentalism that has permeated the world of fashion jewellery and watches. This “eco-friendly” revolution can be seen on the tables of local artists selling items at markets, as well as on the catwalks.

Retailers looking to carve out a piece of these original designs will need to act fast, as the ebbs and flows of fashion dive and soar quickly. [CJ]

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-26 1:56 PM

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cjeconomy

WILD ride Despite economic dips and blips, the market for premium jewellery continues to fetch premium pricing

T

he global market for luxury consumer goods, including jewellery, has been on a wild ride since the onset of the financial crisis and resulting worldwide recession in 2009. In late 2009, global spending on luxury products dipped to levels not seen since 1995. And, while the market had largely rebounded by the close of 2010, the recovery and expansion of demand we’ve seen since has not exactly shot up.

The U.S. market for high-end jewellery came out of the recession in 2010 with more whimper than bang. Still, the overall market has been quietly gaining momentum. While risks of a broader economic slowdown are again at the forefront, the U.S. market has clearly troughed and is improving.

That said, while overall consumer prices are gaining steam, with the All Items Consumer Price Index hitting 2.3 per cent on an annualized basis as of April 2012, the market for luxury goods continues to lag moderately.

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BY MARK FREY

The Bureau of Labor Statistics says luxury watches, which comprise roughly 17 per cent of the overall market for high-end goods, have seen prices increase by 1.1 per cent on average over the past 12 months.

Other jewellery products saw more modest price gains of only 0.5 per cent.

Going forward, household disposable incomes in the U.S. are poised to increase as housing and labour market conditions become more stable.

This is a welcome sign for luxury retailers, who are largely dependent on discretionary consumer spending for the bulk of their sales.

THE CANADIAN SITUATION

While demand for luxury goods has been somewhat more robust in Canada since the recession of 2009 and 2010, the overall picture in Canada will likely be somewhat murkier. Statistics Canada says total industry sales for luxury goods, a market dominated by jewellery products, expanded at an impressive rate of 8.1 per cent in the 12 months leading up to this March— though most of those gains came at the front end of that time period.

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cjeconomy

Consumer demand appears to be softening somewhat from these elevated levels, as income growth in Canada begins to stabilize, and consumers grapple with record levels of household debt. Further, while the U.S. housing market is beginning to stabilize and is indeed getting better, there are increasingly ominous signs that the housing markets in Vancouver and Toronto, two key markets for luxury products, are becoming overheated.

Indeed, the Vancouver market in particular is beginning to soften materially as Asian buyers begin to choose to reside in Toronto over the west coast. As well, although the increasing real estate deal flow from mainland China is supporting the markets for housing and luxury goods in southern Ontario, this spike in demand is likely to be somewhat transitory.

For these reasons, risks are beginning to build with respect to domestic demand in Canada. Still, luxury goods spending is likely headed for more of a soft landing than a downturn, because of the recovering U.S. economy.

A NEW MARKET

One of the key opportunities within the luxury goods market, as cited

by KPMG, is a shift in buying power and overall demand from the ultrarich, to the burgeoning upper middle income segments in Canada and the U.S. The core market for high-end jewellery may in fact be opening to those who consider themselves to be simply affluent as opposed to ultrarich. However, the by-product of this shift ing demographic is that lowerincome buyers will be more sensitive to macroeconomic downturns and declines in disposable income.

In short, so long as the U.S. market continues its upward momentum and the Canadian market avoids a hard landing, the expansion of buying interest in the luxury goods sector should ensure that overall demand remains somewhat robust.

YOUNGER PROFESSIONALS

As part of this shift ing demographic, buyers of luxury items will increasingly be younger working professionals or the newly wealthy.

Retailers would be wise to cater to this market segment.

While a leading industry report states that the global luxury goods business will continue to expand at an average growth rate of 3.5 per cent until 2015, there is no question that the ground is shift ing beneath the feet of many luxury goods retailers. Th is is causing the terms “risk management” and “strategic focus” to become common even among smaller retailers.

Indeed, some persistent trends have emerged in the post-recession world that will likely continue to drive consumer demand over the coming period. Th is will alter the competitive framework of the jewellery industry as a whole.

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A major study of the marketplace by KPMG reveals that consumers of luxury goods are becoming even more discerning in the current market environment, and have become increasingly focused on quality. Even the ultra-rich, who previously have spent almost to the point of excess for highvalue goods, are becoming more value-conscious—to the point of bordering on frugality. They’re focusing more on the ratio between price and quality.

Market research shows that the top end of the market will still pay a premium price for premium goods; however, lesser known brands that are not viewed as attractively will not fare as well.

INVESTMENT IN MIND

Buyers of premium goods and jewellery are also increasingly making purchasing decisions with long-term investment in mind. This focus on durable goods is even more brand-centric, with less attraction to seasonal products and lesser known brands.

In short, buyers are less willing to sacrifice quality. They will increasingly focus their now more scarce luxury goods dollars on premium products in an environment where value is already at the fore.

HIGH-END GOES ONLINE

Another trend in today’s jewellery market is the continued migration of high-end purchasing dollars to an online shopping environment. In the latter part of the past decade, the market for high-end consumer goods largely sidestepped this market trend that asserted itself in most other markets; luxury brands held out from fully embracing the trend to online shopping, out of a fear of sacrificing their hard fought brand prestige.

Increasingly, however, overseas markets are becoming more online-centric, especially in Asia. This marks the beginnings of a trend that will likely take hold in North America as well. In this environment, large-scale brands have an advantage over smaller retailers in the battle for “eyeballs” and digital shopping carts.

In response, traditional retailers are likely to continue focusing on custom merchandise and personalized service. These are key criteria in winning premium-market consumers.

The old axiom that the ultra-rich are going to continue to spend regardless of the economy is largely holding true. At the same time, the continued growth of the luxury retail goods market is increasingly dependent on those with incomes decidedly south of the ultra-rich stratosphere. This is a dynamic that is bringing traditional economics to a market that has seen consistent demand despite an extremely volatile overall economy.

Retailers that win will have to be focused on delivering quality merchandise at attainable prices, something seemingly non-luxurious in the market for luxury goods. [CJ]

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12-06-27 10:58 AM

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sales in our domestic Canadian market.

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For more information on Obaku

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offices in Toronto, Ontario and Vancouver, B.C. are also in place to support ever-increasing

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For details, write #147 on Free Info Page, page 145

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jvcfeature

Fight back against crime!

By John Lamont

Are we willfully blind to what is going on around us? Why not be part of the solution?

Over the last decade, Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) has endeavoured to educate and assist industry members with crime prevention. One of the hardest hit segments of our industry is travelling salespeople. We have given seminars and warned salespeople during the shows. We have written numerous articles warning industry about gangs that prey on us. Still, many have not heeded these many warnings. John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Loss Prevention, describes some of the police work that has been done to arrest some criminals. JVC, along with our partners, Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, has honoured some of these police who have gone above and beyond the call of duty to catch some of these gang members.

These police officers have given up personal and family time (Christmas holidays, long weekends) to do the work necessary to investigate and arrest criminals. As an industry, we also need to do our part and take some responsibility to deter and prevent some of these crimes.

- Phyllis Richard, Executive Director. JVC

R

ecently I read an article written by Eric Tucker, a reporter in Washington, D.C. who writes for the Associated Press. In his article he highlighted the dangers faced by travelling salespeople.

The article began, “The morning started like any other for the travelling

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jewellery salesman as he checked out of a motel in northern Virginia and placed his luggage in the car’s trunk. Then a Honda blocked him in and two black-clad men in hoods emerged, smashed his windows with a pistol and robbed him of roughly $350,000 in jewellery.”

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 11:06 AM

Camera. Clarity. Criminal. Caught.

The Four C’s of the JVC Crime Alert.

JVC Crime Alerts provide timely information and photographs on jewellery crime in Canada that may help protect your store from fraud, diamond thefts or diamond switches.

This valuable service is part of the JVC Crime Prevention Package, which also includes:

For details, write #148 on Free Info Page, page 145

• Crime Prevention Manual (CD format) • Access to JVC’s Security Library

• Crime Prevention Bulletins on effective security procedures • Security Supplier directory

Visit www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca or call 1-800-636-9536 to sign up for your 2012 JVC Crime Prevention Package.

Jewellers Vigilance Canada An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry.

CRIME PREVENTION • RESOURCE PROTECTION • SAFETY AWARENESS

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In partnership with

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jvcfeature

Sound familiar? It should. The same thing has happened numerous times right here in Canada. The most recent incident was in Edmonton, Alberta at the end of May, and prior to that, in Calgary at the beginning of May, with total losses of more than $1 million. Vancouver police have indicated that in the last three years, they have had similar robberies or thefts totalling $12 million.

Staking out locations

In a recent lecture, I had the pleasure of making a presentation with Detective Constable Doug Bedford of the York Regional Police. He told the audience of watch salespeople about a cat-and-mouse game in which organized bands of jewellery thieves staked out locations where there are a large number of jewellery vendors in one building, and how these bandits would follow salespeople for days. His investigation, dubbed “BOT� (band of thieves), revealed a level of street smarts and sophistication as the bandits regularly switched cars and license plates and cell phones.

The police used their own techniques and were watching the cat following the mouse. York Regional Police made several arrests, and a number of subjects were deported from Canada. These officers later received the Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. (JVC) and Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company Law Enforcement Award of Merit 2012.

Huge amount of work

The general public does not realize the amount of work and cost that goes into a major investigation such as the one conducted by York Regional Police. Hours and hours of police undercover surveillance and following the suspected criminals took place. It would be impossible for two officers alone to conduct such surveillance. It may require eight to 10 officers in unmarked vehicles. Detailed affidavits can be as long as 1,500 pages in order to get a court order to intercept communications to obtain search warrants or production orders for cell phone records or DNA warrants.

Travelling salespeople must take the necessary steps to protect themselves and their product. If something does happen, such as a robbery, they have something to give police to work with.

The same holds true for jewellery retailers. JVC’s alert program has been in operation now for several years. Just last month, an alert was instrumental in the apprehension of a diamond switcher in Windsor, Ontario. The store staff had seen the alert and knew who the man was when he came into the store. They called the police, who arrived just as the male swallowed the $25,000 loose diamond. Police arrested the thief, and eventually the diamond was recovered after it passed through his system. (How would you like to be the officer who recovered that diamond? Yuck!)

This all happened as a result of a jeweller in Toronto who had this individual switch a diamond in their store, and they gave the picture of the subject to JVC. In turn, JVC sent it out over their network. The system works if we try.

Not trying turns us all into victims.

A wise investment

Security equipment today is not as expensive as it once was. There is a wide range depending on your needs and the size of your location. GPS tracking devices, security film on showcases, key retention locks and proper safes and alarm systems can all help to protect you, your staff and your merchandise, as well as assist the police in apprehension and recovery.

The police are a thin blue line of defense against criminals. If you stand up and do your part to support them, the thin blue line can become a barrier to crime. [CJ] John Lamont is Director of Loss Prevention, JVC

On occasion, officers may have to deal with confidential informants, which is a major task in itself. They may have to involve another agency or department such as forensic services, emergency response units, canine units, probation and parole, border services and sometimes police agencies from the U.S. This represents a huge amount of cost and man-hours.

Take precautions

Staff Sargeant Bruce Walker of the Calgary Police indicated the frustration a number of his officers are having in many of these cases. Travelling salespeople are not investing or taking any precautions to protect themselves. There are no security devices of any sort used by some salespeople. No chain locks, no trunk safes, no tracking devices, no camera systems installed in the vehicle. And these are all inexpensive systems compared to the dollar losses and the potential of injury to salespeople.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-27 11:06 AM

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A D V E R T I S I A D V E R T I S I N GFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please co For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

160

September/OctOber 2011 – buyerS’ Guide |

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12-06-27 1:48 PM

The JETS program turns sales people into sales professionals!

With education and professionalism of the utmost importance to our industry, this course covers all aspects of the jewellery business empowering your team with not only knowledge, but new-found confidence when working with clients. I highly recommend JETS for everyone in retail.

John Anderson, GG, CGA, CAP Davidson’s Jewellers Ltd. Ottawa, ON

I truly enjoyed the JETS course. As someone coming from a non-jewellery background, I found the course to be very informative and engaging. I would recommend it to anyone.

Maria Storie, CJAGJ For details, write #151 on Free Info Page, page 145

Davidson’s Jewellers Ltd. Ottawa, ON

CJAPR2012_DOCKET_ADVERTISER_PRODUCT_FP.indd 19

Why JETS should be part of your business strategy Call to set up your JETS program today!

For more information, contact Maria Garcia at 416-368-7616/1-800-580-0942, ext. 222 or maria@canadianjewellers.com

12-06-26 4:29 PM

showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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WORLD’S NUMBER ONE The

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A D V E R T I S I A D V E R T I S I N GFor more information on how to advertise in this section A ofDCanadian V Jeweller E Rmagazine T Iplease S conI

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Luc

pure beauty has a name...

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For over has carri of excelle Today, Ha leader in metals a among C

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12-06-27 1:49 PM

Canadian Jeweller ISSUE: Specs: 9” x 10.875” MATERIALS: PDF/X1A ATTN: Elizabeth Valiaho, Production Manager • Rive Gauche Media • 60 Bloor St West Ste. 1106 • Toronto ON M4W 3B8

Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with

RAHUL KADAKIA. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas, shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.

A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and well-rounded businessman.

Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my first interview with the company.

For details, write #153 on Free Info Page, page 145

Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.

Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem.

Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available.

Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113

CanadianJeweller_FNL.indd 1 CJAPR2012_DOCKET_ADVERTISER_PRODUCT_FP.indd 19 ADVERTISER: GIA

PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119 ISSUE: Canadian Jeweller

3/9/11 9:35 AM 12-06-26 4:49 PM

showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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We are excited to be adding over 35 new manufacturers and designers to our floor who are showcasing the industry’s most innovative and creative products.

We welcome them, along with those industry leaders who have chosen the Western Canadian Jewellery Expo over and over as their Premier Canadian Jewellery Event.

For details, write #154 on Free Info Page, page 145

Western hospitality awaits you.

Shaw Conference Centre – Halls B & C Edmonton, Alberta August 17 – 19, 2012 inquiries@wcjexpo.com or ulliaclt@shaw.ca – 780.467.9549

CJAPR2012_DOCKET_ADVERTISER_PRODUCT_FP.indd 19

www.wcjexpo.com 12-06-27 9:34 AM

showcase A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE - INVENTORY - WEBSITE register today @ artiniandiamonds.com or call 416.360.6371

Canadian Jeweller Showcase & Marketplace If You’re Reading It, You Know It Works!

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12-06-27 1:53 PM

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Refining - Assaying - Trading Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

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information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Let For Usmore Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine

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marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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PULSE POINT POINT STUDIO STUDIO 60 60 STUDIO STUDIO 30 30 PULSE LASER WELDERS WELDERS LASER PULSE POINT STUDIO 60 STUDIO 30 New & & LASER UsedWELDERS machinery and and New Used machinery equipment for jewellers equipment for jewellers New & Used machinery and BUY -- SELL SELL TRADE BUY -- TRADE equipment for jewellers

BUY - SELL - TRADE www.abmachinery.com www.abmachinery.com www.abmachinery.com

Toll Free: Free: (888) (888) 901-8888 901-8888 Toll Tollalex@abmachinery.com Free: (888) 901-8888 Email: Email: alex@abmachinery.com Email: alex@abmachinery.com

www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-28 4:12 PM

marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Since 1996

CUSTOM DESIGN & FINISHING

PRINT, MILL & GROW

SERVICE GUARANTEE

• Finishing: 2 weeks turn around • Print, Mill, Grow your CAD, STL files 2-3 days • Casting Provided • All jobs set under microscope • Our jobs guaranteed

410 Chrislea Rd, Unit 9, Woodbridge, Ontario Tel: 905-264-9976 • Toll Free: 1-866-264-9976 info@prestigemfg.com • www.prestigemfg.ca • GOLD • YELLOW • WHITE • PINK • GREEN • STERLING • BRONZE

• PALLADIUM • PLATINUM • SILVADIUM • S-STEEL • PRESETS • MOLDS • ALLOYS

ALLOYCO INTERNATIONAL INC.

CALL TOLL FREE 1-888-475-5384 Phone: 514-845-5384 • alloyco@alloyco.com • www.alloyco.com 55 Mont Royal W., suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, H2T 2S6 Ad-Bullion Mart copy.pdf 1 6/28/2012 12:03:25 PM

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Canadian Jeweller Showcase & Marketplace If You’re Reading It, You Know It Works!

Call: 1.888.358.8186 www.canadianjeweller.com

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marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Beverly Hills Growing Stronger

Giovanni (John) Vaccaro is pleased to announce some significant changes to his team at Beverly Hills Jewellers. Anesha Raghubir who has been an intrical part of the company and an invaluable asset for the past 12 years, has been appointed VicePresident. As well, Gail Golberg is excited to join Beverly Hills as Director of Sales & Purchasing. Gail has spent over 20 years in the industry with Fabrikant and Diarough.

classified

A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

GEMOLOGIST

We are seeking an experienced and certified GEMOLOGIST to work full-time in our Head Office in Edmonton, AB.

We are expanding across Canada and seeking a DISTRICT MANAGER with multiple store experience for the Edmonton, AB region.

Please send a resume to: tracy.kenny@parisjewellerscanada.com

Please send a resume to: tracy.kenny@parisjewellerscanada.com

High-end jewellery store in northern Alberta looking for an experienced gemologist. Primary tasks would include appraising jewellery bought in store. Sales experience is preferred. This position has growth opportunities! Salary position based on experience.

Send resume to gp@janinas.com

Experienced Jewellery Store Manager Wanted

-10 years experience minimum in high volume store -GIA trained -Sales trained -Able to conduct sales meetings Without Above Experience Do Not Apply Howard Fine Jewellers Ottawa, Canada e-mail: howard@howard.ca

We are expanding across Canada and seeking enthusiastic SALES ASSOCIATES to work in Saskatoon, Calgary, Edmonton, and Nanaimo.

We are expanding across Canada and seeking a MANAGER with multiple store experience to work in our Brampton, Saskatoon, and Edmonton locations.

Please send a resume to: hr@parisjewellerscanada.com

Please send a resume to: tracy.kenny@parisjewellerscanada.com

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GOLDSMITH/BENCH JEWELLER

High-end jewellery store in northern Alberta looking for experienced goldsmith/bench jewellers. Common tasks include: general repairs and custom creation from wax to cast to finished product. Advanced skills in stone setting is a must! Salary position based on experience.

Send resume to gp@janinas.com.

FOR SALE

Jewellery store in busy, well established Oakville plaza. 30+ years of excellent reputation with loyal customer base.

Turnkey operation with contemporary dĂŠcor, safes, custom display cases and alarm system. With or without inventory.

Please email retiring.jeweller@gmail.com for serious enquiries.

WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

12-06-28 12:39 PM

PAGE

145

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CONNECT WITH…

2. Use this quick reference list below to find its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

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24 Gold Group Sapir Diamonds Stuller Malo Midas Jewelry Madani Lili Diamonds TIG Group Kim International E.R.L. Diamonds Bulova Best Bargains Beverly Hills Jewellers Dimples GC Watches - Sequel Canada Christopher Designs Lotus Jewellery Atlantic Engraving Jewelers Mutual Pacific Urns Ethan Stars - Creation Le Grenier B Couture AMA Swiss Seiko Nova Diamonds Rembrandt Charms Fantastic Fine Jewellery Lega Cover Watches Ready Mounts Maximum Brilliance Canadian Diamonds Rodania BFly Polanti Prestige Pack Creative Gems Noble Gift Packaging Lumigem Imperial Color Diamonds Wenger MSD Gem

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write # 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141

on any product advertised in this issue

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sectionhead

4. Mail or fax us at 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392

CONNECT WITH… Beverly Hills Jewellery TIG Group Northam Diamonds Fantastic Fine Jewellery Artinian Diamonds Fiori JVC EpicMind Studio PAJ Elle CJA UBM Asia GIA Western Canadian Jewellery Expo PAJ Elle Mirage Pacific Urns B Couture Best Bargains Western Canadian Jewellery Expo BFly Elle Jewelry Malo Midas Lili Jewelry GIA Lotus Sequel Canada Jewelers Mutual Prestige Pack Kim International Stuller Nova Diamonds Rembrandt Charms Fiori B Couture Creation Le Grenier Cover B Couture Pacific Urns Imperial Gems

115 117 119 121 123 124-125 127 129 131 133 135 137 139 147 148 22 22 22 22 22 24 24 24 24 24 26 26 26 26 26 28 28 28 28 28 30 30 30 30 30

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Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________

Number of employees at your location  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13

Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________

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Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________ Company Name: ___________________________________________________________ Address: _________________________________________________________________ City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________

STEP 3

142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184

Info Card & Subscription

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5. Receive free info direct from as many advertisers as you like

Selling area of your store  under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft.

Approximate annual sales volume  under $500,000  $500,000 - $1 million  $1 million - $5 million  $5 million - $10 million  $10 million - $20 million  over $20 million Categories you personally manage  Retailer  Designer  Gemologist  Supplier  Manufacturer  Other _________________________________

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AUGUST 2012 WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

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STEP 4

Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8 WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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lastword

Do the Cha Cha This season is all about channeling brightness and boldness through the colours in your clothes and accessories. That’s why nothing could be more fitting than these spectacular Orange Cha Cha earrings by Erica Courtney. The hot orange sapphire and pink tourmaline dazzlers are sure to turn heads. They’re set in 18k gold, with a pink tourmaline centre drop that’s removable, allowing the wearer to alter and play with their look, depending on where they’re heading. Oh, that sizzles. Retail at $53,600. – Irina Lytchak

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www.canadianjeweller.com

12-06-26 10:44 AM

For details, write #155 on Free Info Page, page 145 CJAPR2012_DOCKET_ADVERTISER_PRODUCT_FP.indd 19

12-06-25 4:09 PM

For details, write #156 on Free Info Page, page 145 CJAPR2012_DOCKET_ADVERTISER_PRODUCT_FP.indd 19

12-06-25 4:19 PM