CJ August 2015

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

AUGUST 2015

Canadian Jeweller Magazine

UNTIL NEXT TIME, VEGAS What happens in Vegas doesn’t have to stay in Vegas...

Gerry Gilroy

Independent Jewellers Standing strong

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CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

YOUR GUIDE TO CJ EXPOS What to expect from this year’s line up of truly Canadian shows

CMC J U L Y/A UAG U S T 2 0 1 4 AUDITED

4 2 7 0 9 01 3 | 1 2 3 5 B AY S T R E E T W E S T S U I T E 4 0 0 T O R O N T O O N TA R I O M 5 R 3 K 4

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Introducing Ever&Ever™ from Stuller Create the ring of her dreams with complete bridal flexibility What do you get when you combine 122 customizable engagement rings and matching wedding band styles, a comprehensive marketing package, and a unique and compatible web experience for it all? It’s Ever&Ever™, Stuller’s new turnkey bridal collection.

Intrigued? Learn more about the program at Stuller.com/EverandEverCJ.

Learn more at Stuller.com/EverandEverCJ s tul le r.com

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800 877 7777

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STERLING SILVER SKULL PENDANT on bulletproof kevlar cord, with accents in sterling silver and Mokume Gane.

STERLING SILVER BRACELET, inlaid with 10,000 year-old fossil Woolly Mammoth tooth, and clasp set with diamond.

BEADED BRACELET, with sterling silver skulls, black onyx and centerpiece in fossil walrus tusk.

For information, contact Steve Turac l 514.771.7469 l steve@turacluxury.com

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W I L L I A M H E N R Y. C O M

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world THOMAS SABO, founded in 1984 by Thomas Sabo, is one of the internationally leading providers in the jewellery, watches and beauty segment.

HOMAS SABO is known as an innovative jewellery, watches and beauty company. Established by Thomas Sabo in 1984, it is one of the leading premium lifestyle companies and is globally present with its multi-channel strategy, delighting its customers with unique-looking jewellery and watch designs. The THOMAS SABO jewellery range is comprised of the Sterling Silver Collection, including the ladies’ and men’s lines Glam & Soul and Rebel at heart. The unisex Karma Beads line, the playful Charm Club Collection creations and expressive watches complete the offering.

THOMAS SABO has around 2,600 trade partners worldwide, making it a major player in the jewellery and watches sector.

Since the establishment of the brand, specialist retailers such as premium jewellers, specialist jewellers and watch stores as well as leading chains have made a decisive contribution to the growth and development of the brand and have assumed a central role within the context of the international distribution and expansion strategy. THOMAS SABO supports this with high-level investment providing customised assistance for its trade partners. This includes

new, specific display and presentation solutions in the brand’s corporate design, offering optimum visibility and sales support.

THOMAS SABO continues to support its retail partners with regional targeted marketing activities that complement and enhance the international print and TV campaign during the most important sales periods such as Christmas ensuring along with targeted below the line activities maximum brand awareness for the consumer.

The highlight for the Autumn/Winter 2015 season: THOMAS SABO LOVE BRIDGE – a new collection of customisable bracelets.

With its ‘Make Memories Last’ motto, it offers all wearers the possibility to capture a special moment with a personalised engraving.

THOMAS SABO and its trade partners are celebrating the launch of the new LOVE BRIDGE jewellery range – beautiful bracelets with the most diverse designs and materials, whereby complimentary customization takes centre stage. This provides the ideal prerequisites for generating high footfall in stores. A diverse collection, affordable prices and personalised engraving on the spot are paired with the opportunity to obtain engraving machines at unmet conditions.

Philippe Hazan, Managing Director THOMAS SABO Canada: “For more than 30 years THOMAS SABO has been a major player in the wholesale distribution of jewellery and watches. There are very few bridge or fine jewellery brands with such a wide product offering and support package. We strongly believe in long term retail partnerships to maximize turnover and high profit margins, season after season.

Retailers see the brand as we do, the next big affordable luxury lifestyle brand in Canada. They all comment very positively on our unique product assortment and new display concept. Our unique branded modular furniture system is very appealing and of the highest quality. Additionally we support our customers with high quality packaging, end consumer brochures and a state of the art B-2-B ordering system.”

Glam & Soul – offers irresistibly feminine designs and always provides a splash of elegance and glamour.

Charm Club – enchants with more than 500 charming and filigree motifs.

Rebel at heart – the range for men is expressive and diverse.

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Make memories last – with your complimentary engraving.

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AUGUST 2015

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol. 136 / No. 05

OLI V IER FELICIO

Editorial Board

I R I N A LY T C H A K SCOT T JOR DA N KAITLIN YEP

Jean-Christophe Bédos Birks, President & CEO

COR R INA MOSCA

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / irina@canadianjeweller.com Art Director / scott@rivegauchemedia.com Junior Designer / kaitlin@rivegauchemedia.com Editorial Intern / corrina@thergmgroup.net

Haigo Derian L’Oro Jewellery CONTRIBUTORS

Gino DeVuono Movado Group of Canada

Ashley Champagne, Sarah B. Hood, Larry Johnson, John Lamont, Corrina Mosca, Duncan Parker, Todd Wasylyshyn

Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive SALES

Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada

EDITE M A RTINS

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6128 / email: edite@canadianjeweller.com

Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc. Phyllis Richard Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc.

HEAD OFFICE

1235 Bay Street, Suite 400, Toronto, Ontario M5R 3K4 tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Mano Rupra TimeRevolution.com

MELANIE SETH

Beth Saunders Canadian Jewellery Group

LUC Y HOLDEN

Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd.

MONTREAL OFFICE

Controller & Operations / melanie@thergmgroup.net General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net 230-2451 Chemin Lucerne, Montreal, QC H3R 2K5 tel: 514-381-5196 fax: 514-381-6223

Steve Turac Turac Luxury Group Inc. Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Mart Inc.

SUBSCRIPTION RATES Canada — one year, $50; two years, $85; three years $120. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) plus applicable taxes. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40.

Bulk rate (Canada only, for six or more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per year.

CHANGE OF ADDRESS email: circulation@canadianjeweller.com telephone: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392 or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller 1235 Bay St., Suite 400, Toronto, ON. M5R 3K4 PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 1235 Bay St., Ste. 400, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4.

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AUGUST 2015

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INDULGE IN THE MAJESTY OF REIGN BY PAJ

FEATURING FLUTTERING DIAMONDLITE CUBIC ZIRCONIA FOR ENDLESS EYE CATCHING SPARKLE reign@paj.ca

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Departments

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Contents 16 EDITOR’S LET TER 18 CONTRIBUTORS / BEHIND THE SCENES

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20 WHAT'S ON 68 JCK L AS VEGAS REVIEW What happens in Vegas doesn't have to stay in Vegas...

22 PRODUCT SHOWCASE

by Irina Lytchak

26 STAR WATCH A bevvy of beauties graced the red carpet with heaven-sent polish and poise

82 JMI EXCLUSIVE You can never be too careful when sending and receiving valuable packages

28 FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events

92 SHOWCASE / MARKETPL ACE

44 CJ GALLERY 19th Annual JVC Golf Tournament coverage

96 ST YLE COUNCIL Send summer off with a bang

48 ON THE COVER: INDEPENDENT JEWELLERS We reconnect with Gerry Gilroy to see why his store continues to be the top-dog in the industry

98 L AST WORD Citizen: Evoking elegance

by Irina Lytchak August 2015 cover photographed

by Ashley Champagne

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CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

AUGUST 2015

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CANADIAN JEWELLERY EXPOS 2015 TORONTO • BOOTH # 400

August 9, 10, 11 • NEW LOCATION • The International Convention Centre, Hall 5

EDMONTON • BOOTH # 103 August 16, 17, 18 Shaw Conference Centre

• •

EXPO PRESTIGE 2015

•

MONTREAL • BOOTH # 527 I AM M A D E IN CANADA

™

Jewellery designed and hand crafted in Canada

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August 23, 24, 25 Palais de congrès de Montreal

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74 Features & Columns

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Contents 54 FEATURE: FALLING FORTUNES How the dropping loonie is affecting the Canadian jewellery industry

by Sarah B. Hood

56 CJ EXPOS PREVIEW What you can expect from this year's line up of truly Canadian shows 62 SCHOL ARHSIP FEATURE A look at the finalists for the 2015 Vaccaro Family Scholarship

50 MINING COLUMN From ideas to reality (Part II)

by Maria Laura Barreto

84 GEMS & GEMMOLOGY How antique jewels provide a unique perspective on cultural history

by Duncan Parker

64 EXPO PRESTIGE PREVIEW Montreal's biggest jewellery show is finally here!

86 ON DISPL AY Never thought jewellery and food had something in common?

Think again.

74 DESIGNER PROFILE: CL AIRE VESSOT Award-winner Claire Vessot is still making discoveries about the design process

by Larry Johnson

by Sarah B. Hood

88 RETAIL COLUMN Are Millenials reshaping the retail landscape?

by Todd Wasylyshyn

78 COMPANY PROFILE: JOHN'S WHOLESALE JEWELLERY A family-owned business that keeps the customer coming back for more

by Irina Lytchak

90 JVC REPORT An invisible border to crime

by John Lamont

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CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

AUGUST 2015

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Create your own expression.™ The Symbols & Expressions™ collection allows your customers to create their own expression by choosing the charms and bangle bracelets that define them.

There are thousands of charms available in gold and silver, allowing them to truly express their individuality.

RembrandtCharms.ca #CharmStory

Moon & Back 1535*

Bear Paw Print 1607*

Love You More 1558*

Snowflake 7816

Hamsa 1568*

Lotus Flower 1562*

*Engravable

The Symbols & Expressions™ Collection by

p.800-387-5238 • Orders@RembrandtCharms.ca

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Editor’s Letter

What matters to you Irina Lytchak, Managing Editor WE KNOW THAT THERE ARE A LOT OF PRESSING INDUSTRY CONCERNS, inflation being one of them, that affect the average jeweller on a daily basis.

That’s why in this issue, we enlisted our loyal writer Sarah B. Hood to look at how the rise and fall of the loonie (and the U.S. dollar of course) affects so many of you in a feature on page 54.

On that note, we are recommitting ourselves to bringing you content you want and need to know about in the coming months. Expect to discover more articles exploring topics like marketing through social media, how you can be your own blogger, the latest events coverage and what styles in jewellery and watches are making the top trends list.

Following the success of the recent JCK Las Vegas show, you can expect to find our highlights from the floor in a six-page spread starting on page 68.

And on pages 56 and 64, get a sneak peek of what to expect from this year’s Canadian shows in Toronto, Edmonton and Montreal. We’re also including this year’s talented nominees for the Vaccaro Family Scholarship sponsored by Beverly Hills Jewellers on page 62.

Don’t forget that the next issue of Canadian Jeweller Magazine, the September/October 2015 publication, is perhaps our most significant one of the year – the 2016 Buyers’ Guide. If you haven’t already done so, be sure to visit canadianjeweller.com to add your company to our listings or to update your existing information for next year! CJ

Photograph by Jacqueline Hornyak

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Corrina Mosca

As an avid style blogger and social media enthusiast, Corrina’s work is deeply inspired by the contemporary fashion world. Currently, she is a second-year student at Victoria College at the University of Toronto, where she is pursuing a double major in English and Art History. For this issue, Corrina contributed to the For the Record section on page 28 featuring the latest industry news and developments.

Ashley Champagne

Based out of Edmonton, Ashley is a commercial, editorial and portrait photographer. Her innovative style can be seen in magazines, advertising campaigns and on album covers for various recording artists. Having photographed the likes of Lady Gaga, Ashley’s favourite subject matter has always been people. She aims to create iconic images that express the authenticity of each individual and for this issue, Ashley captured the compelling presence of Independent Jewellers’ Gerry Gilroy for our cover.

Sarah B. Hood

This Toronto-based freelance journalist explores the culture of fashion, food, and urban life in her many books and articles. Her work has been short-listed for the National Magazine Awards, the Kenneth R. Wilson Awards (including her work for Canadian Jeweller Magazine!) and the Taste Canada – The Food Writing Awards. For this issue, Sarah interviewed jewellery designer extraordinaire Claire Vessot in our Designer Profile section on page 74.

Contributors

Behind the Scenes Gerry Gilroy’s name is widely known throughout the Canadian jewellery industry, so it’s no surprise that this is his second time around the track when it comes to appearing on the cover of Canadian Jeweller Magazine.

For this issue, we enlisted the very talented Ashley Champagne to capture Gerry for the cover and to photograph all of the intricate and stylized aspects of his immense store. This unique retailer operates from its very own 32,000-square-foot building located on 170th Street and 112th Avenue in Edmonton and has established a reputation that keeps customers coming back after many years.

With such an illustrious leader standing behind the name, it’s no wonder that Independent Jewellers has been an industry leader since it’s inception more than 35 years ago. CJ

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THE HALLMARK YOU KNOW. THE SELECTION YOU WANT. The CanadaMark hallmark program assures customers worldwide that their polished diamond is of Canadian origin, cut from rough diamonds mined in the Northwest Territories. Now the journey from mine to store is easier than ever. Bring the brilliance of the North to your customers with the CanadaMark polished trading platform.

This exclusive marketplace gives retailers and wholesalers the power to buy CanadaMark diamonds online, anytime.

For more information, please visit www.canadamark.com/exchange.

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What’s On

Gear up for the year by staying informed on what shows are bound to be the biggest hits in 2015.

The following is a list of key dates, location and contacts for the top shows around the world in the coming months to make YOUR life easier: Trade Shows

Also, be sure to check out canadianjeweller.com for a full online calendar listing of the major shows for 2015

August

September

August 6 – 10: India International Jewellery Show 2015 (Mumbai, India) iijs.org August 7 – 9: East Coast Gem, Mineral & Fossil Show (West Springfield, MA) mzexpos.com/east_coast.html August 8 – 10: Atlanta Jewelry Show (Atlanta, GA) atlantajewelryshow.com August 8 – 11: NAJA 44th ACE It Mid-Year Education Conference (Washington, DC) najaappraisers.com/html/conferences.html August 9 – 11: Canadian Jewellery Expos – Toronto (Toronto, ON) cjexpos.com/toronto-expo August 9 – 11: Mode Accessories Show (Toronto, ON) mode-accessories.com August 9 – 12: Toronto Gift Fair (Toronto, ON) cangift.org/giftshow August 14 – 16: LA Antique Jewelry & Watch Show (Los Angeles, CA) laantiquejewelry.com August 14 – 16: Memphis Gift and Jewelry Show (Memphis, TN) helenbrett.com/Default.aspx August 16 – 18: Canadian Jewellery Expos – Edmonton (Edmonton, AB) cjexpos.com/edmonton-expo August 17 – 18: International Watch and Jewelry Guild Show (Universal City, CA) iwjg.com/calendar.shtml August 21 – 24: Malaysia International Jewellery Fair 2015 (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia) elite.com.my/mijf August 21 – 24: New Orleans Gift and Jewelry Show (New Orleans, LA) helenbrett.com/Default.aspx August 23 – 24: Prime Jewelry Group (New Orleans, LA) primejewelrygroup.com/index.php August 23 – 25: Expo Prestige (Montreal, QC) cbq.qc.ca/QJC.html August 23 – 25: Stuller’s Bridge Event (Lafayette, LA) stuller.com/bridge August 26 – 28: Japan Jewellery Fair (Tokyo, Japan) japanjewelleryfair.com/en August 27 – 29: Ambermart-International Amber Fair (Gdansk, Poland) ambermart.amberexpo.pl/title,Jezyk,lang,2.html August 29 – 31: JAA International Jewellery Fair (Sydney, Australia) jewelleryfair.com.au/Sydney August 30 – 31: Select by Centurion Dallas 2015 (Dallas, TX) selectjewelryshow.com/dallas

September 3 – 6: FACETS Sri Lanka 2015 (Colombo, Sri Lanka) facetssrilanka.com September 5 – 7: Midora Leipzig (Leipzig, Germany) midora.de September 5 – 9: VicenzaOro Fall (Vicenza, Italy) vicenzafiera.it September 6 – 8: International Jewellery London (London, England) jewellerylondon.com September 6 – 9: Autumn Fair International 2015 (Birmingham, UK) autumnfair.com September 7 – 8: International Watch & Jewelry Guild Show (Las Vegas, NV) iwjg.com September 8 – 12: Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair (Hong Kong) hktdc.com September 10 – 13: JOGS Tucson Gem and Jewelry Show (Tucson, AZ) jogsshow.com September 13 – 15: Stuller’s Bridge Event (Lafayette, LA) stuller.com/events September 13 – 20: Colorado Mineral & Fossil Show (Denver, CO) mzexpos.com September 16 – 19: Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair (Hong Kong) asiafja.com September 16 – 20: International Fashion Jewelry & Accessory Show (Miami, FL) ifjag.com September 16 – 22: September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (Hong Kong) asiafja.com September 20 – 21: Select by Centurion Foxwoods 2015 (Mashantucket, CT) centurionjewelry.com

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October October 2 – 5: Intergem 2015 (Idar Oberstein, Germany) intergem.de October 4 – 6: Stuller’s Bridge Event (Lafayette, LA) stuller.com/events October 6 – 10: 39th MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show (Sharjah, UAE) mideastjewellery.com October 12 – 13: International Watch & Jewelry Guild Show (Brooklyn, NY) iwjg.com October 14 – 16: Centurion South Beach 2015 (Miami Beach, FL) centurionjewelry.com

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM AUGUST 2015

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Rousseau Chain is the exclusive Canadian distributor 1-800-661-4460

MOVING STONE JEWELRY

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Product Showcase

Gemsparkle Ltd.

Gemsparkle Ltd. brings you Native Gem — a GIA-certified Canadian diamond brand. We have been serving the jewellery industry for over 22 years with integrity and dedication. Find us at the CJ Expos Edmonton Show at Booth #410.

GIA

Introducing the GIA 4Cs App – Retailer Edition for iPad. GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used at point of sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate customers about how GIA grades the 4Cs and offers direct access to GIA’s online database of GIA reports.

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AUGUST 2015

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STEELX Collection

Rugged meets refined‌ Indulge in the fascinating world of stainless steel, where diversity joins with luxury and affordability. Inspired by a world where rules do not exist, STEELX allows you to be yourself and express your confidence with style. Praised for its strength, durability, and sleek appearance, stainless steel is the metal of choice for those wanting the sophistication of precious metals. Urban and edgy, the STEELX collection for both men and women incorporates leathers, sparkling crystals, natural and semi-precious stones, reflecting true cutting-edge technology that exudes quality.

Lily Jewellery Manufacturing What makes Lily Jewellery Manufacturing unique is the wide range of services provided. This beautiful, engraved ring was designed using our 3D CAD technology, casted, set, and polished all within our own premises. Browse through our large inventory of jewellery and diamonds at www.lilyjewellery.com.

AUGUST 2015

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Product Showcase

Sauro

Sauro’s sailing inspired Nautica Collection adds a splash of colour and definition to your wrist. These elegantly crafted 18k gold pieces make a great accessory for a watch or collection of stacking bracelets. Visit Sauro.it for the entire collection and dealer information.

Superdry

Inspired by the premium Superdry Copper Label fashion range, these new timepieces have strong distinctive Superdry features and raw materials etched into the design. Emblematic of authentically aged style, these watches are packed with quality and striking details. The silver embossed copper label print stands out against the raw brass dial not forgetting the stamped crown too. The watch embodies vintage quality, finished with hand stamped, thick black leather straps and branded eyelet.

Stuller Inc. Get your customers exactly what they want through Stuller’s customizable styles. As always, every design is backed by our 45 years of jewellery manufacturing experience. Visit Stuller.com/3C to get started today.

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AUGUST 2015

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Nova Diamonds Our latest addition to the Dome Ring Collection includes a stunning selection of marquise cut diamonds, elevating the standard pave dome ring to star status. The combination of high colour and high quality stones reveals Nova’s sophisticated collection of diamond jewellery. Ref: LF8-2461.

Thomas Sabo LOVE BRIDGE - Make memories last. Express your true feelings with an engraved Thomas Sabo Love Bridge Bracelet. The delicate silver bridge symbolizes the unique bond between two hearts and souls.

AUGUST 2015

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Star Watch

Divine Darlings

Simply Stunning All eyes were on Dutch model Doutzen Kroes at amfAR’s 22nd Cinema Against AIDS Gala in Cap d’Atibes, France.

Her bright red Maison Margiela column gown was paired with a beautiful gray smoky eye for a look that was equal parts sleek and sultry. A Messika Diamond Wave ring (price upon request) tied everything together, adding a pop of elegance to her ensemble.

Donning gorgeous gowns and jawdropping jewels, these angelic ladies graced the red carpet with heaven-sent polish and poise

Shining Starlet Jennifer Lopez’s Valentino Couture gown stole the show at the 2015 Tony Awards. Her navy blue strapless dress featured a collection of gold sequin appliqués that came together at her slim waistline, evoking the image of a glimmering shower of stars. To complete the look, Lopez added a vampy crimson lip, an Old Hollywoodesque hairstyle and a subtle but eye-catching Harry Kotlar diamond bracelet ($123,675).

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Black & White Bombshell While hosting this year’s CMT Music Awards, Brittany Snow wowed onlookers in her white satin crop top and black draped gazar skirt by Monique Lhuillier. The Pitch Perfect 2 star paired the outfit with strappy stilettos and added a touch of hot pink lipstick for a fun yet refined effect.

A black diamond ring by Le Vian ($3,847) also shone from Snow’s finger, giving the whole look a punch of sophisticated sparkle.

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For The Record

News/Trends/Events “Secret” Ontario diamond royalties necessary protection for De Beers

Corona Jewellery mourns the loss of Mr. Albert Minister It is with great sadness that Corona announces that Albert Minister, founder of Corona Jewellery Ltd., passed away peacefully on Tuesday, June 2, 2015 at the age of 87, surrounded by his loving family.

“Albert Minister never stopped working or striving to make Corona the company you see today,” says his son, John Minister, President of Corona Jewellery Ltd. “He continued to come into the office right up until the day he was hospitalized. That just shows how truly dedicated he was to this company.” John Minister continued by saying, “The kind words and support from our friends and industry colleagues has been greatly appreciated and demonstrates how many lives he truly touched.”

Albert completed his education as a master goldsmith in Pforzheim, Germany before immigrating to Canada in 1951. His gift for designing and hand crafting jewellery led him to establishing Corona in 1959. Albert’s vision and pursuit of excellence drove the company’s growth which led Corona to its position as an industry leader today.

Albert lovingly passed on his knowledge and passion for our industry to his son and grandchildren who will continue to honour his legacy. Albert Minister’s passing leaves its mark not only on the company but on the jewellery community as a whole. He will be greatly missed by his family, friends and colleagues.

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When royalty figures from De Beers’ Victor Diamond Mine were leaked earlier this month, many Ontarians were shocked at the secrecy surrounding the numbers. However, according to Tom Ormsby, De Beers vice-president of external and corporate affairs, the confidentiality clause in Ontario’s Mining Act that protects this information also applies to all the other mines in the province.

“None of the mines in Ontario are actually required to [release] their various royalty payments,” says Ormsby. “The reason that [we] have a unique line in the Mining Act … is because we’re the only diamond producer.”

According to Ormsby, all mines are required to report their royalties as an aggregated group, rather than releasing them individually. Because the Victor Diamond Mine is the only one in the province, however, De Beers is not afforded that sort of anonymity. Thus, Ormsby says, the diamond royalties are not disclosed to the public, as “it would be unfair… to put something into the ledger that people could specifically point to.”

Ormsby notes that the CBC-Michener-Deacon investigation has sparked an important conversation about whether the mining industry brings any additional benefit to the lives of Ontarians. However, he says, the way in which De Beers’ royalty payment of $226 was presented to the public was “unbalanced.”

In actuality, De Beers has paid around $47 million to the government of Ontario since the opening of the Victor Mine in 2008, millions of dollars of which came from royalties paid last year. “People were left with the impression that [the released $226 figure] was the only thing that was headed to the province of Ontario,” he continues. “By getting our number, we became a disproportionate focus of the discussion.”

AUGUST 2015

2015-07-17 4:38 PM

Engagement ring “selfies” may attract unwanted attention With the commencement of this engagement and wedding season has come a new social media craze: the engagement ring “selfie.” Consumers everywhere have adopted the trend, with brides-to-be posting close-up pictures of their engagement rings on all social media platforms.

Trina Woldt, chief marketing officer at Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, notes the high importance of safety when it comes to posting these images. Due to the wellknown high value of engagement rings, she says, it is easy for these pictures to become targets for thieves.

To help their customers avoid theft, Woldt suggests that jewellers “offer tips” about safely spreading news of the engagement. Moreover, she advises that jewellers inform their customers about the importance of insuring their precious rings.

“An engagement ring is often someone’s most treasured and most valuable piece of jewellery,” says Woldt. “Jewelers Mutual understands what’s important in a jewellery policy, particularly to someone insuring an engagement ring. Our policies are created to ensure customers receive both comprehensive coverage and peace of mind.”

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AUGUST 2015

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29 2015-07-17 4:38 PM

For The Record

Industry icon of Bulova and Allison-Kaufman has passed away

UJA Federation honours Movado Group’s Efraim Grinber

Herb Lewis, a respected industry leader and top executive at Bulova and Allison-Kaufman, passed away just days after his 100th birthday on June 9.

Lewis was exposed to the jewellery business at a young age, as his own father owned and operated a jewellery store. After growing up in the industry, he joined the Bulova Watch Co. as a salesman in 1948 and stayed with the company for 34 years, eventually becoming its vice-president.

At 65, Lewis retired from Bulova to spend another 15 years of his life as national sales manager and director of marketing for Allison-Kaufman Co., where he became the face of its industry ad campaign.

He was also active in industry groups, serving as president of the 24 Karat Club of Southern California. Additionally, Lewis was one of the founders of both the Atlanta Jewelry Show and the Pacific Jewelry Show.

Lewis is survived by his wife of 73 years, Anne; his son, Mark; his grandson, Brian; his great grandsons, Trevor and Trexton and his great granddaughter, Tahari.

Efraim Grinberg, chairman and CEO of the Movado Group, was recently honored by the UJA-Federation at the organization’s annual fashion division luncheon in New York City.

Lew Frankfort, the chairman emeritus of Coach Inc., presented Grinberg with his award. Sammy Aaron, vice chairman of G-III Apparel Group, and Abbey Doneger, president and CEO of the Doneger Group, were also honored.

The UJA-Federation, or the United Jewish Appeal-Federation of Philanthropies of New York, is the largest local philanthropic organization in the world.

This particular event raised more than $1.6 million, providing funding to 100 nonprofit groups.

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Retailers can now sell product through Pinterest Pinterest is now adding a “buy it” button, which will allow consumers to purchase products straight from the social networking site.

Retailers such as Macy’s, Nordstrom, and Neiman Marcus have already signed up for the service. Otherwise, the new function is limited to companies using the Shopify and Demandware commerce platforms only, with Pinterest hoping to make “more integrations in the future.”

Checkout for this function will be done through Apple Pay and other online payment services. Pinterest says it will not take proceeds from these sales, and is expecting to see two million buyable pins by the end of the month.

AUGUST 2015

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GIA debuts new “Gem & Jewelry Career Center” On June 1, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) launched its brand new Gem & Jewelry Career Centre. The online platform will act as a centralized place for employers and individuals alike to post and search for job openings in the gem and jewellery industry.

The site will feature a resume keyword search, making it extremely simple for employers to find the best candidates for prospective jobs. Users can also manage their own profile in the database, social-media style, making live edits for others to see.

Employers and job seekers who are interested in the service can sign up now at www.gia.edu/gem-job.

Diamond trade to face arbitration on colour grading standards Members of the diamond trade may now face arbitration for dealing in diamonds with a colour grade that differs from industry standards. The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA) and the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) are the main organizations behind this new policy.

Currently, it states that issues regarding diamond colour grades should be brought before the authorized body of a bourse. The bourse is to then determine the broadly accepted industry benchmark—from either the Gemological Institute of America or the International Diamond Council—to be used in each case.

Next, the diamond is to be submitted by said bourse to a respected laboratory to be graded based upon on the chosen industry standards. If the examination concludes that the diamond’s colour grading exceeds the accepted standard by more than one grade, the bourse will be expected to take necessary measures against the relevant parties.

“Due to the subjective nature of gem grading, it is widely accepted that a difference of up to one grade in colour and clarity should be tolerated,” says Ernest Blom, president of the WFDB. “This has already been established as the industry norm and we are reiterating the importance that our members should adhere to that norm to ensure continued consumer confidence in diamonds.”

Stuller wins Best in Show at JCK 2015 Platinum Innovation Awards A platinum and diamond cage pendant by Stuller took top honours in the 2015 Platinum Innovation Awards at JCK Las Vegas. The exquisite piece is currently valued at a retail price of $8,445.

For the Platinum Bridal Jewelry category, one of the three winners this year included Canadian brand CrownRing, which won for a piece called Orion’s Belt; a stunning platinum and diamond men’s wedding band worth $3,780.

The awards, sponsored by the Platinum Guild International USA, are now in their sixth year. This event invites designers exhibiting at JCK Las Vegas to submit their most innovative platinum pieces for consideration, with the winners chosen by a panel of industry experts.

This year’s panel included Michelle Graff of National Jeweler, Victoria Gomelsky of JCK Magazine, Amanda Elser of The Knot, Tanya Dukes of InStore, Colleen Banks of Martha Stewart Living, Sean Moore of Borsheim’s Fine Jewelry and Gifts, Kevin Main of Kevin Main Jewelry and Michael Han of the Wedding Ring Shop.

AUGUST 2015

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31 2015-07-17 4:38 PM

For The Record

Iconic Nash Jewellers store to leave downtown London Nash Jewellers will be closing its iconic Dundas St. store in London, Ontario after 97 years of business. Colin Nash, the store’s owner, has sold the location to Mike Manuel of the London Music Hall, who plans to turn the building into a music incubator.

Nash plans to merge the closing shop with the brand’s north-end London location. The move will take place mid-2016.

“The retail aspect [of downtown] is something of the past,” says Manuel, who sees music and the arts as the future hallmark of London. To pay homage to the great retailer’s legacy and history, however, Manuel has decided to keep the cases and the floor of Nash Jewellers intact.

“We would never have done what we’re doing now if we didn’t have the new buyer,” says Nash. “It’s not something we took lightly or did quickly. Knowing Mike’s moving in here, retaining our heritage and culture is amazing. We couldn’t ask for a better blessing than this.”

Sales team expansion at Rembrandt Charms Rembrandt Charms has announced recent changes to its sales team, with the addition of a new regional account manager and two new account executives.

Maria Tracy, a previous visual merchandiser and trainer for Pandora, is stepping into the role of regional account manager for Rembrandt’s Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Delaware stores, along with select accounts throughout the country. At Pandora, Tracy helped her accounts to grow their businesses through social media, in-store advertising and events, and new product launches.

“Maria’s role as regional account manager will add a new dimension to our sales team,” says Rembrandt’s Vice-President of sales and customer service, Jim Honsberger. “Having Maria out in the field will provide us with greater insight into the needs and wants of our customers. We believe her knowledge and experience with the jewellery industry and jewellers make her a valuable asset to the team.”

Caroline Bonalsky and Jennifer Urbaniak will also join the sales team as account executives. Bonalsky comes to Rembrandt with 10 years of retail management experience, while Urbaniak—like Tracy—comes from Pandora.

Both new additions bring with them prime industry-related knowledge and skills which will greatly benefit the company.

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Swatch Group opens new Customer Service Center in Montreal Swatch Group has announced the opening of its newest Customer Service Center. Conveniently located beside an existing Swatch retail location on Montreal’s Rue de la Montagne, the centre will offer customers easy access to assistance, repairs and service for their Swatch watches.

The centre will also provide educational supplies to customers. This includes the addition of “discovery walls” to the reception area, which will examine the histories of the individual Swatch brands and the art of watch making.

Only certain brands under the Swatch Group umbrella will be eligible for service at the centre, which include Breuget, Blancpain, Glashütte, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilton and Calvin Klein. Swatch brand watches will be serviced at the company’s retail locations.

The new Montreal location will act as a satellite operation to the Toronto Service Center, which remains Swatch Group’s central service location.

Report finds mystery diamond treatment at IGI In recent months, diamonds have been submitted to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the International Gemological Institute (IGI) that have been treated with a chemical coating in order to temporarily boost their colour by several grades.

On May 13, GIA reported its suspicions that as many as 500 stones had been subject to this mystery process. Gemmologists at IGI are still unsure about the chemical composition of the coating, but believe it to involve an extremely thin film that may only be visible at 500 times magnification. The coating may be removed by acid boiling, but it is unclear whether it is the acid or the heat that reverses the treatment.

“We know what is being done, but we don’t know how it is being done,” says Phil Yantzer, vice-president of GIA’s Carlsbad lab services.

The stones that arrived at IGI and GIA do not appear to have come from the same source. At a recent panel at JCK Las Vegas, GIA said it was “close” to determining the nature of the mystery treatment.

AUGUST 2015

2015-07-17 4:39 PM

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2015-07-10 11:25 AM

For The Record

Jewelers Mutual welcomes Mike Alexander to the team Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company has appointed Mike Alexander as its new senior vice president of commercial lines. In this role, Alexander will oversee all aspects of commercial lines operations and sales for the company.

“I’m very excited to have Mike Alexander join the Jewelers Mutual team, and I’m looking forward to our business continuing to grow and develop in exciting new ways,” says Scott Murphy, president and CEO of Jewelers Mutual.

“Mike is a natural leader, and he brings strong leadership traits, analytical skills and a successful history of sales and agency partners to our team.”

Prior to his role at Jewelers Mutual, Alexander was the senior vice-president of national sales and strategy at National General Insurance in North Carolina.

There, his responsibilities included overseeing a variety of property and casualty products including those for automobiles, floods and commercial vehicles.

“The more I learn about Jewelers Mutual and the jewellery industry, the more excited I am about the opportunity to be a part of this growing company,” says Alexander. “With such a specific focus and more than 100 years of excellence to build upon, we’re going to reach new levels of excellence, meeting and exceeding expectations for jewellery insurance.”

Stuller appoints Gary Davis as new vice president of sales Gary Davis, an established sales and business development executive, has recently joined Stuller as its new vice president of sales.

Davis brings with him 20 plus years of experience in leadership and problem solving in marketing, business development, sales management and operations. Immediately prior to his work at Stuller, Davis served as vicepresident of business development at QSpex Technologies.

“Gary comes to Stuller with an impressive mix of experience,” says Danny Clark, president of Stuller, Inc. “We’re excited to see how his experience and fresh perspective contribute to the initiatives we’re currently working on and future opportunities.”

Bob Cox, the previous vice-president of sales and business development for Stuller, will now be retiring after 12 years with the company. “We owe a great deal to Bob for his dedication and appreciation for the independent retail jeweller and the jewellery industry,” says Clark. “His insightful advice, industry expertise, and unforgettable personality will certainly be missed.”

Germany’s Metro to build stronger online and international presence German retailer Metro AG has announced that it will invest more in its online and international operations.

This revelation follows the $3.18 billion sale of its Kaufhof department store chain to Hudson’s Bay Co. The Canadian retailer plans to expand Kaufhof’s e-commerce “aggressively” in order to take advantage of the roles its stores can play as local distribution centres. While e-commerce is growing quickly in Germany, stores like Kaufhof have been slower than their North American rivals to integrate online fully with their stores.

Metro, Europe’s fourth-largest retailer, sold Kaufhof to focus on developing its cash-and-carry and consumer-electronics business. The company now aims to open more of its Media Markt and Saturn discount electronics stores outside of Germany, and is considering adopting an online-based delivery service for its Real-branded stores.

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IDD debuts in Canada with new sales team International Diamond Distributors (IDD), a diamond jewellery manufacturer and loose diamond supplier, has entered the Canadian market with a brand new sales team.

Based in New York’s Diamond District, IDD is known for offering the industry fashionable diamond jewellery and an extensive loose-stone inventory at highly competitive prices since 1977.

Specializing in serving the needs of independent jewellers, the company has announced a Canadian sales team that includes industry veterans like Gord Lawlor for British Columbia and Alberta, Denis Mulock for Ontario, Alain Belanger for Quebec and the Maritimes, George Martin for Saskatchewan, Manitoba, and Northern Ontario, and Leslie Smith as the Canadian Sales Coordinator.

The company also offers an easy-to-use, interactive website that enables jewellers to browse through its extensive inventory, customize pieces and place orders.

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2015-07-10 11:27 AM

For The Record

Canadian Armed Forces Veteran creates Her Wearables, local jewellery company Kelsie Sheren, a veteran of the Canadian Armed Forces, recently founded Her Wearables, a Vancouver-based jewellery business.

Sheren, 25, started the company in November of 2014 as a way to raise awareness about the struggles that Canadian veterans face. “The Canadian Forces have many soldiers come home who are suffering from PTSD and many other problems,” says Sheren. “[However,] the majority of the time, [these men and women] are set to the side due to a lack of funding by the government.”

As a result, Sheren sends a portion of all proceeds from Her Wearables to Wounded Warriors, a non-profit organization that seeks to help soldiers who have been injured in active service. “This is my way to give back,” she says, “and I couldn’t be happier to have found a way to help others who are suffering.”

Her Wearables currently consists of four collections: the City Collection, the Stone Collection, the Free Collection and the Gunner Collection. As of now, the line is sold exclusively in British Columbia, but Sheren hopes to soon expand across Canada and the U.S. For more information, visit her-wearables.com.

MasterCard’s mission to win over retailers Recently, MasterCard has pushed to reshape itself as more than just a payment processor; with a variety of new mobile purchasing apps, the company has been working on a wide range of consumer-facing cellular solutions.

At a July press demo, the company’s innovation labs team was excited to show off ShopThis, a digital one-click ordering solution for mobile. This app allows readers to buy items featured in iPad magazine ads using MasterPass, the company’s digital wallet service.

Brian Lang, president of MasterCard Canada, said that the brand’s strategy to drive adoption of the new money-managing service is to win over retailers and make them advocates for their services. To that end, it’s focused on addressing pain points for merchants — like poor conversion rates on mobile product ads.

The company also hopes that retailers will promote these tools to their customers as solutions to their own issues, as well.

“The way this stuff scales is if the merchant or the supplier feels it’s solving a problem, they’ll tell [the consumer] you should do this,” Lang says. “Consumers in the end will make decisions as to what’s good and what’s not.”

Canada receives job boost in private sector This May, Canada’s labour force received a boost of 58,900 additional jobs due to a surge in private-sector work.

Statistics Canada’s latest job-market report also notes that May’s unemployment rate remained locked at 6.8 per cent for the fourth straight month, while the youth unemployment rate fell to 13.2 per cent from April’s rate of 13.6 per cent.

This report also noted that 19,100 public sector jobs were lost that month, the number of full-time jobs climbed by 30,900 and part-time positions rose by 27,900. This overall net increase in jobs surpassed economists’ expectations and offset April’s loss of 19,700 positions.

This survey provides a fresh reading on Canada’s second-quarter economic data, which is under especially close scrutiny after the economy contracted in the first three months of the year.

Canada’s inflation rises slightly in May, April retail sales fall Canada’s consumer prices advanced slightly to 0.9 per cent in May, while retail sales for April took a surprise decline. This signifies that the second-quarter recovery the central bank is depending on still remains uncertain.

Core inflation slowed to 2.2 per cent from 2.3 per cent in April, says Statistics Canada. April retail sales also fell 0.1 per cent, despite economists’ predictions that sales would rise 0.7 per cent for the month. Total inflation, while beyond April’s 0.8 per cent pace, is still outside the Bank of Canada’s one to three per cent target range.

The 0.1 per cent decline in April’s retail sales exceeded all economists’ forecasts, suggesting that the economic weakness seen in the first quarter from lower crude oil prices will linger into the second.

“The economy is going to remain sluggish,” says Doug Porter, chief economist at BMO Capital Markets. “The bigger surprise was definitely in retail sales.”

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AUGUST 2015

2015-07-17 4:39 PM

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2015-07-16 11:44 AM

For The Record

Canadian retailers see growth at both ends as retail landscape shifts

New study reveals more women are treating themselves to fine jewellery

High-end and low-end retailers alike have seen a jump in sales this quarter.

Those retailers whose products fall somewhere in the middle, however, have witnessed a vast decline in profits.

“Retailers that provide middle-priced products seem to be losing ground,” says Maureen Atkinson, a senior partner at retail consultancy J.C. Williams Group. “We’ve seen this phenomenon evolving for years, but now we are seeing the impact on our retail base.”

This quarter, the Hudson’s Bay Company reported an increase in sales in its high-end department stores; Dollarama, the country’s largest low-end bargain store, also noticed an upward trend. Conversely, those stores that sell to middle-income earners—like Sears and Reitmans—are losing large sums of money as consumers are spending elsewhere.

While it may seem that these trends reflect a growing sense of wealth inequality in Canada, experts say the trends are less about economic disparity and more about middle-income consumers bargain hunting in some areas and trading up in others.

“The fact that the same consumers are shopping at Dollarama and getting their coffee at Starbucks is a pretty good illustration of this trend,” says Atkinson. “I don’t think it’s about inequality, though there is probably a segment of Dollarama shoppers who can’t afford to shop elsewhere.”

While women have traditionally been gifted jewellery by men, many ladies have now given up waiting for a man to “put a ring on it” and are buying their own lavish accessories.

A recent study by Mintel, an England-based market research firm, showed that more than half of the 2,000 women surveyed bought jewellery simply to treat themselves. A report by Bonhams, the auction house, also noted this trend; the company, which sells more jewellery lots each year than any other international auction house, says that at its most recent sales, half of the buyers were women.

“More people see auctions as a good way to buy vintage, one-off jewellery and we’ve seen a big increase in female buyers who are buying jewellery for themselves,” says Jean Ghika, head of the Bonhams jewellery team for Europe.

“These are career women who have successful jobs, who have their own money and are happy to choose their own jewellery with it – sometimes they are spending their bonus on a tangible asset, sometimes they are just treating themselves.”

Meiller, Blom stand out at WFDB’s 2015 Presidents’ Meeting The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) held its biennial Presidents’ Meeting this June 14-16 in Tel-Aviv. Over the course of the event, the leaders of the 30 diamond bourses affiliated to the WFDB and the Israel Diamond Manufacturers Association’s 16 member organizations discussed the most pressing issues affecting the global diamond industry.

In his address at the formal opening of the event, Ernie Blom, president of the WFDB, gave attendees a wide-ranging review of some of the industry’s greatest challenges. Among the issues he spoke about were falling profitability and declining bank credit, synthetic stones, overgrading and generic diamond marketing.

“Conditions in the diamond industry are far from easy and they have been that way for quite a number of months,” he said. “These are complicated times for the diamond industry across the world.”

Philippe Mellier, the CEO of De Beers Group, also presented a notable discussion at the meeting, emphasizing sustainable returns across the diamond pipeline as a key to investment to underpin further growth.

“Diamantaires need to make sustainable returns so they can invest in things such as new technology, marketing activities and business efficiency,” he says.

Meiller also discussed activities and investments that can “enhance” midstream market prospects in finding sustainable returns. “First,” he says, “there is a need to generate consumer demand growth downstream, [as] this supports the value of diamantaires’ polished diamond sales. Second, there is a need to facilitate efficiency and maintain third party confidence in the midstream—this will reduce diamantaires’ operating costs. And third, there is a need to maintain availability upstream, [limiting] the escalation in diamantaires’ input costs.”

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Evolving retail expectations require enhanced experiences in-store According to Unity Marketing’s affluent consumer tracking survey, high-end consumers are spending their money more and more on luxury experiences, rather than products.

The study examined the shopping behaviour of 2015’s affluent consumers, following their spending across four key sectors: general merchandise stores, online retailers, specialty retailers and experiential marketers.

“What we found [from the study] was … significantly greater spending on luxury experiences,” says Pam Danzinger, president of Unity. “[High-end consumers] are buying experiences, and shopping is indeed an experience.”

Retailers that understand this new preference and alter their retail landscapes to accommodate it will be able to vastly improve their sales as well as better connect with their customers. With the luxury retail environment becoming more prominent than ever, it is now essential for brands to focus their attention on enhancing their in-store environments.

Jewellers expect bump in business after same-sex marriage ruling The Supreme Court of the United States ruled on Friday that same-sex marriages are legal and recognized in all 50 states. Based on data analysis by the Associated Press, in the upcoming months, this triumph will bring a burst of same-sex marriages—and related jewellery-buying—especially in states where it was previously illegal.

“I think we will see a huge surge in couples seeking marriage licenses,” says Rony Tennenbaum, a New York City designer. “You will see a lot more weddings, a lot more engagements, and a lot more anniversaries. Same-sex marriages will be a much larger pillar of the wedding industry than ever before. It is now a niche that cannot be ignored.”

Uncertainty in the global diamond trade is high While the $80 billion spent on diamond jewellery last year was a record, diamond manufacturers are expected to share a profit of just $100 million in this year. This decrease comes at a time when manufacturers are finding themselves in an increasingly difficult situation, stuck between mining companies charging high prices for rough stones and retail chains demanding gems at low margins to keep sales moving.

“The rule of supply and demand doesn’t necessary apply to the diamond sector,” says Yoram Dvash, a high-end polisher in Israel. “Manufacturing is not just work, it’s out of love—taking the rough stones, with all their odd shapes, and bringing out the most precious thing in the world. But this love costs a lot of money. And rough prices have been going up and up with no connection to demand.”

Other businesses that make up the global diamond trade have also seen a recent decrease in profits. Overall, this has been due to the industry’s difficulty in sustaining consumer demand at a time when people are more likely to spend disposable income on technology than diamonds.

“Have you ever heard of a 20-year-old standing outside a store all night to buy jewellery?” Ernest Blom, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, asked delegates at an industry conference. “I haven’t,” he answered. “We have fallen behind the times.”

Tim Hortons, President’s Choice and Shoppers Drug Mart most trusted brands among Canadians According to a survey released by the Peter B. Gustavson School of Business at the University of Victoria, Canadians trust homegrown brands the most; Tim Hortons, President’s Choice, and Shoppers Drug Mart topped the list in their Gustavson Brand Trust Index.

Over the course of the survey, a sample of 3,125 Canadian consumers ranked a total of 249 brands in 22 industries. The brands were scored on 40 attributes, including quality, innovation, value, leadership and social responsibility, which are considered to be the most relevant factors influencing consumer trust.

The study found that consumers trust on two different levels: functional and emotional. Trust of the former variety comes from quality, reliability, and consistency, while the latter is based in an alignment of values between the company and the consumer. According to the index, these dynamics greatly influence consumers’ choices when choosing between brands.

Saul Klein, the dean of the business school, says the study was conducted in response to a recent survey by global PR firm Edelman, which found that Canadians are losing trust in retail companies. “That’s a key part of what we were looking at – why overall trust is going down, why some brands are performing poorly but others are doing well,” says Klein. “The idea is to focus on the ones doing well to understand why.”

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New Flora Collection – Distributed by Bfly Bfly continues to be a key player in the children’s jewellery market in North America

TO CELEBRATE ITS 10TH ANNIVERSARY, BFLY IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE a new distribution partnership with CEMPP. Based in France, CEMPP has been widely recognized for the distribution of quality children’s jewellery at very competitive prices for several years.

With this partnership, Bfly will now offer European quality jewellery under the Flora brand in the North American market starting this fall.

“CEMPP was looking to add a new brand to its roster, and we were looking on our side to offer a wider variety of children’s products to our partners,” says Stéphane Lavoie, President of Bfly.

Flora is a collection of 10k and 18k gold as well as silver jewellery that brings together a wide variety of styles to suit many tastes. The first collection will include fixed earrings with high-quality screwbacks, French earrings, sleepers and hoops.

“We want to expand this collection in the coming years with several other styles and products such as bracelets and pendants,” adds Lavoie.

To follow the successful formula of the Bfly brand, the new Flora Collection will be complemented by charming rotating displays and adorable packaging.

Bfly is planning to offer inside showcase displays by 2016.

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AUGUST 2015

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Canadian Jeweller Magazine is pleased to present the annual 2015 Awards of Excellence celebrating the very best in Canadian jewellery design, retailing, product development and watch brand innovation

Why enter?

1.

• It’s a prestigious forum in which to be recognized by your peers • Tremendous opportunities to promote your achievement in marketing initiatives • Social media exposure via Facebook, Twitter and Instagram • Review in Canadian Jeweller Magazine • Award solidifies your position in the industry

Categories • • • • • • • • •

Independent Jewellery Retailer of the Year Multi-Store Retailer of the Year Product Line of the Year Watch Brand of the Year Best Diamond Design Best Canadian Diamond Design Best Pearl Design Best Platinum Design Best Coloured Gemstone Design

To enter, you will need to submit: • A completed nomination form found on canadianjeweller.com • A $60 entry fee per nomination • Photographs of the product/product line being nominated • Samples of advertising campaigns, brochures, etc. marketing the product line • Testimonials from at least two Canadian retailers For full details, to register, and/or to find out how you can become a sponsor of the event, visit canadianjeweller.com or call us at 416-203-7900 x 6102.

2.

3.

1. Best Coloured Gemstone winner Llyn Strelau of Jewels by Design 2. Independent Jewellery Retailer of the Year: Mani Jewellers 3. Best Canadian Diamond winner Noam Carver

Entry deadline is September 4th, 2015 at 5:00 p.m. awards-of-excellence-ad3.indd 35

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Mining Column

From ideas to reality (Part II) A look at the second part of my trip to the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC)

by Maria Laura Barreto

AS I HOPE YOU WILL REMEMBER FROM MY COLUMN in the April/May 2014 issue of Canadian Jeweller Magazine, I found myself at the top of a mountain in the jungles of the Congo, contemplating the view after several hours of strenuous hiking. During that walk, I had the opportunity to see several artisanal operations and to talk with some miners that were working in this remote region of the DRC. It was challenging, interesting and important to be able to witness these sites, but our visit didn’t end there.

We knew that we had to continue to move, and fast, because we still needed to visit an artisanal underground mine and return back to the village before the dark settled in. The path led steeply downhill into a small valley where the mine was located. The miners noticed us when we started to descend and helped us navigate the different obstacles.

We finally arrived at the base of the steep slope and, after the required introductions, the miners were anxious to go inside and show me what they were working on. I was keen to explore but knew that we did not have any safety equipment. Only one miner had a lamp and he was our guide for the journey.

Although I have been in many mines before, I didn’t know too much about the safety of this operation, nor did I have basic knowledge about the tunnel.

I made a very quick first assessment before I entered and saw that the timber structure that reinforced the mine walls and celling appeared to be very well built.

When I entered, it was very dark so I had to use my sense of smell to get an indication of whether the mine had good air circulation and to estimate the level of water infiltration. We began to move very quickly and I needed light to see where my feet were stepping. The only thing I had with me was my small automatic camera so I began to take flash photos to illuminate my path. Aside from helping me orient myself, I actually managed to capture some interesting photos. One of my favourites simply shows the hand of the miner ahead of me holding my own to guide me through the tunnel. It’s a symbolic image.

Another photo, by pure luck, captures a bright vein of gold in the earth that the miners were following.

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At one moment, we stopped and I realized that it was the end of the tunnel where some miners were actively working on extracting the ore. We had the opportunity to talk about what they were doing and the difficulties that they were facing to advance the extraction given their rudimentary tools and working conditions.

Once we made our way back out, it was time for me to ask questions. The miners were happy to respond and I could see that they were proud of their work. This mine is unique, as it is the only one of its kind in the area, while all the others are open pit operations.

After we talked for a while, it was time to return to the village. The path back through the forest was narrow and naturally, we formed an “Indian convoy.” It was, by now, the end of the afternoon, my favourite time of the day when I’m in Africa during the dry season. The sky was painted a rich blend of red, orange and blue as a soft wind started to blow and the vegetation around us rustled to make a comforting sound.

In the next few days, we had several meetings during which we talked about how to improve the recovery of gold and how to increase the safety in the mine. We were also able to gather around a computer to watch some short videos that helped to demonstrate and illustrate several of our suggestions.

Over the years, I have visited several artisanal sites and mines but what made this experience a great and truly memorable one was the fact that, despite the difficult conditions of surrounding conflicts in the DRC and the impact of these on the daily lives of the people in rural areas, they are still looking very keenly to find a way to sustain themselves with dignity and hard work.

Please understand that I am not romanticizing this experience. Profound problems exist and a lot of hard work needs to be done to support these miners, but the fact is that they are doing their work and they are hungry to be able to improve their mining operations and the lives of their families and communities. The question here is: Are we willing to help them achieve their goals? CJ

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Canadian Jeweller ISSUE: Specs: 9” x 10.875” MATERIALS: PDF/X1A ATTN: Elizabeth Valiaho, Production Manager • Rive Gauche Media • 60 Bloor St West Ste. 1106 • Toronto ON M4W 3B8

Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with

RAHUL KADAKIA. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas, shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.

A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and well-rounded businessman.

Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my first interview with the company.

Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.

Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem.

Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available.

Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113

CanadianJeweller_FNL 2013.indd 1 CJ AUGUST 2015_FP.indd 37ADVERTISER: GIA

PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119 ISSUE: Canadian Jeweller

2/25/13 8:40 AM 2015-07-10 11:25 AM

CJ Gallery

Myer

JVC Grand Slam

THANK YOU TO JEWELLERS VIGILANCE CANADA (JVC) for another successful and enjoyable Golf Tournament! This year’s edition of the JVC 19th Annual Golf Tournament went off without a hitch and attendees had the opportunity to enjoy a full day of golf at the Angus Glen Golf Club in Markham as well as a silent auction and dinner hosted by Gino DeVuono and Jeff Morrison.

The event wouldn’t have been a complete success without the loyal support of a number of industry members including Beverly Hills Jewellers, Bulova Watch Co., CJG, Time Central, Citizen Watch Co. of Canada, Myerson’s Limited, and PAJ Canada to name just a few from a long list of contributors.

The day included golfing on the beautiful Angus Glen Golf Course, after which guests were treated to cocktails and hors d’ouevres before putting pen to paper and bidding on some prizes donated by the various participating brands.

Dinner was memorably hosted by DeVuono and Morrison as they thanked contributors and gave out raffle ticket prizes.

We are grateful to JVC and everyone involved for allowing our team at Canadian Jeweller Magazine to be a part of this special day. Until next time! CJ

C

Be sure to check out the digital edition of the August 2015 issue and canadianjeweller.com to view more photos from this event!

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Myerson’s Ltd.: Alan Slavner, Ashley Myerson, Diana Luxton, Ian Sansom

Movado Watch: Michael Greene, John Colomby, Silvana Juri, Jim Georgakis

Toronto Police: (not in any specific order) Stephen Smith, Paul Mills, Jamie MacDonald, Marc Cioffi

Corona Jewellery Co.: Michael Minister, George Hiller, Robert Minister, John Minister

Movado Group of Canada: Rob Magissano, Ben Carroccetto, Frank Lijoi, Shannon Cavabbaugh

Tibor Finez, Scott Rutledge, Gino DeVuono, Jeff Morrison

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CJ Gallery

Beth Saunders of Canadian Jewellery Group and Gail Golberg of Beverly Hills Jewellers

SCL Imaging: Ryan Hasledon, David Doyle, Dennis Matton, Derek Retter

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Time Central: David Gutta, Ryan Goncalves, Danny Cimbron, SCL Imaging: Ryan Hasledon, David Doyle, Joe Goncalves Dennis Matton, Derek Retter

Durham Police: (not in any specific order) Craig McInall, Ryan Connolly, Dan McKinnon, Mike Baggio

CJ Expos: Garnet Irving, Lilie Ford, Phil and Barbara Payne

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Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds Nova Diamonds Inc. 221 Victoria St. Lower Level Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4 Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666

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Cover Story

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Standing strong

Gerry Gilroy knows that the secret to success lies in following the formula that worked from the beginning.

by Irina Lytchak photography by Ashley Champagne

WE FIRST HAD THE PLEASURE OF FEATURING GERRY GILROY on our cover nearly six years ago and by that point, Gilroy had made a name for himself and his massive Independent Jewellers Center in Edmonton.

We checked in with Gilroy for our August 2015 issue and found that he continues to stay undefeated when it comes to his business.

“Everything we’ve done so far has worked,” he says. “We haven’t seen a decrease in sales in the past years and the biggest thing for us continues to be customer service.”

And it’s that service that has earned Independent Jewellers the Consumer Choice Award for 15 consecutive years.

“We have many loyal customers that keep coming back,” says Gilroy. “That’s what we’re known for.”

One of a kind retail center Gilroy has been in the jewellery business for 38 years now and his store, which was built about eight years ago, continues to occupy the largest area for a single jewellery retailer in all of Canada. At a whopping 32,000-square feet, the Independent Jewellers Center is home to a single-floor jewellery and watch storefront, and a mezzanine with an office space, a boardroom, a private viewing and event room, as well as a fully equipped gym.

The customers visiting the massive retailer are evenly split, with 50 per cent being from out of town and the rest being repeat customers from the Edmonton area.

The reason why Independent Jewellers attracts such a large number of out of town clientele is because of the retailer’s same-day service offer as well as a large number of goldsmiths on hand that are able to get the job done right on the spot.

“People really like the service,” says Gilroy. “The same-day option works

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Cover Story

really well for them.”

The business has the capability to satisfy a wide range of orders largely as a result of its 10 on-site goldsmiths, two gemmologists, a watchmaker and an engraver. Gilroy adds that the company also employs two corporate sales representatives and two insurance specialists.

When it comes to the store’s customer traffic, Gilroy praises the store’s location, which happens to be right near a busy highway.

“We built the store on one of the main roads in the city and we’re about two blocks away from West Edmonton Mall,” he says. “When I moved in here, traffic was 56,000 cars a day. Now it’s 96,000 cars.”

The center is hard to miss. With a giant display board outside that gets updated on a daily basis, as well as a 100-car parking lot, customers find it extremely easy to make a quick stop or secure a parking spot for a lengthy shopping spree.

“It’s very convenient to shop here,” says Gilroy. “People love it because it’s a one-stop shop.”

Outstanding opportunities When we last spoke to Gilroy, it was clear that working for Independent Jewellers came with many advantages. The store’s sales staff turnover has always been very low, if not nonexistent, and many of the staff has been with the company for over two decades.

“We have really great people working here,” says Gilroy. “Some have been with us for up to 35 years.”

The retailer employs about 50 staff members in total and Gilroy doesn’t hide the fact that their earnings are very competitive. “They’re overpaid,” he says.

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Aside from producing millions of dollars in sales each year, the sales staff has access to the store’s on-premise gym, complete with showers and a jacuzzi, as well as a trainer that comes in several times a week.

When it does come to finding a new staff member, Gilroy says that sales numbers trump experience.

“Sales are what keeps your business going,” he says. “The staff personality, background and working habits are the things that give us a big advantage over all the other stores. And since our staff are all salary plus commission, sales are definitely a priority and they all know that. And since we do a lot of volume, everybody makes money.”

There are no limits It took Gilroy several years to figure out how to stock his massive store and these days it seems, he’s got it down pat.

“The major factor here is the selection we carry,” explains Gilroy. “ Whatever you want to spend, we’ve got it, and we can tell you why you’re spending what you are for each product. We never lose a sale and when people are coming in here, they’re coming in to buy.”

About 60 per cent of the business is in diamonds, including loose stones and diamond rings. “Our diamond area is huge,” says Gilroy.

And now, more so than usual, the retailer is invested in carrying Canadian diamonds as a result of the industry’s increasing growth over the past few years.

“Canadian diamonds are huge right now,” he says. “We were the first to carry Canadian diamonds back in ’91, so we’ve got a really good rapport with all the Canadian diamond manufacturers. We’re very loyal to our suppliers.”

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AT A GLANCE Owner: Gerry Gilroy Location: 11248 - 170 Street, Edmonton, AB Size: 32,000 square feet Staff: 50 Known for: very, very broad selection of product Cool factor: Gilroy used to be a professional boxer and is still involved in the KO Boxing world: “We sponsor four professional fights every year at the Shaw Centre. I’ve been doing that for 25 years here, and we even got a trophy from the mayor last year for putting these fights on.”

The store’s watch section, which takes up about 4,000 square feet, is mainly made up of branded boutiques that bring in about 10 per cent of the store’s revenues.

One thing that has changed for Independent Jewellers is that the store is now selling more high-end products than before.

“Every sale has gone up, but other than that, everything else is still the same,” says Gilroy referring to his wide selection of engagement and bridal diamond rings, watch brands and gold jewellery. “We carry everything, right across the board,” he says. “We have a really wide variety to keep everybody happy – for the low-end customers that want to spend $100, or if you want to spend $100,000, we move a lot more bigger pieces, because no one really has them in town.”

Stick to your guns Today, many jewellery retailers continue to reinvent their store and sales tactics in order to keep with the times and to stay competitive on the social media and marketing fronts. And although Gilroy hasn’t made any significant changes to his store center or his sales tactics over the past few years, customers continue to flock to his location knowing that they will find top-notch service and whatever item of jewellery or watch they’re on the hunt for. Which goes to show: why change something that doesn’t need to be changed? CJ

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Falling Fortunes How is the dropping loonie affecting the Canadian jewellery industry?

by Sarah B. Hood

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THE FORTUNES OF CANADIAN JEWELLERS RISE AND FALL WITH OUR DOLLAR, so how is its recent history affecting the industry? A sampling of views reports different effects on different market segments.

First, an overview: The Canadian-U.S. dollar exchange rate has been restless over the past 25 years. In the early 1990s, compared to the U.S. dollar, the loonie hovered around an average of 0.85, sinking slightly to the 0.75 range in the mid-‘90s, then bottoming out in the 0.65 range between 1998 and 2002, with an all-time low of 61.79 on January 21, 2002. But subsequently, as the U.S. economy faltered, the Canadian dollar began a steady rise that would see it reach an unprecedented 1.10 in November of 2007. More recently, with U.S. recovery, it has dropped again, and the average exchange rate for 2015 to date is 0.80.

When the loonie sinks, “as a manufacturer of primarily gemstone jewellery, we find that the price of manufacturing here in Canada goes up, since we import our raw materials from overseas in U.S. dollars. This does affect how much we sell our goods to our Canadian B2B clientele,” says Anita Agrawal, CEO of Best Bargains. “But it’s good news for tourists, especially American tourists who can afford to buy cheaper products in the Canadian market.”

“Industry sales have been declining for the last several years. To add to that, the weakening Canadian dollar makes a higher gold value in the market, and therefore it’s impacting retail and wholesale sale further,” says Kamal Lalvani, vice-president of International Sales and Marketing with United Precious Metal Refining Inc. “Gold is always quoted in U.S. dollar terms, so it’s basically shot up the price of gold in Canada,” he continues. “Incomes are not going higher in

Canada; if anything, they’re going lower because of the oil crisis. The only people who are doing better in this are people who are refining, turning scrap into metal.”

“The effect, I would say, is not bad,” says Moniruz Zaman, president and CEO of Bullion Mart. Whenever the exchange rate fluctuates, “the gold price is adjusting accordingly,” he says. “The Canadian dollar has gone down and the U.S. dollar has gone up, but gold has gone down. The Canadian dollar going down does not mean the price has to go up.”

Zaman believes that “business is increasing, not decreasing, and people are buying more than before.” As this trend continues, he says when it comes to precious metals, “there is a very good chance of a buyer’s market coming.”

“We’re a manufacturer supplying raw materials to the jewellery industry,” says Thelma Chuakay, Managing Director of Umicore Precious Metals Canada Inc., who points out that there are some advantages. The dropping dollar rate is “lovely if it’s exporting into the U.S.; over here, it hurts us. The metal markets are all in U.S. dollars, so it makes it a little more expensive if the Canadian dollar weakens. But if the Canadian dollar goes up, we see less sales.”

On the refining side, “if they have inventory that they’re not moving or it’s obsolete, then they can sell it back at a higher price. Overall I think it’s good for the economy,” Chuakay says. “It’s more expensive for you and me, but if a retailer has, for example, a branch office or sells in the United States, then they benefit from it.”

Overall, it seems, the extent to which jewellers can benefit from the lower dollar will depend on how much they can offset higher costs of doing business against the potential of greater sales into the U.S. CJ

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Step into the World of

CJ Expos Toronto Trollbeads

Feature

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STEELX

WITH AN EXCITING LOCATION, UPDATED FLOOR PLAN AND NEW EVENTS, this edition of CJ Expos in Toronto is bound to bring retailers and buyers alike a bevy of new networks and knowledge.

New Location The newly renovated Hall 5 at the International Centre will be home to CJ Expos in Mississauga. Strategically located within one mile of Canada’s crossroads, 401 and 427 highways at Pearson International Airport, the area includes 17 well-priced hotels, numerous restaurants, ample parking and train service to downtown Toronto’s Union Station. Attendees will also have access to a complimentary shuttle bus service.

John’s Wholesale Jewelry

Zeghani

Location: THE INTERNATIONAL CENTRE – Hall 5 6900 Airport Road Mississauga, ON L4V 1E8 Dates & Times: Sunday, August 9 – 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Monday, August 10 – 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Tuesday, August 11 – 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

New Partnership In 2015, CJ Expos has co-located in the same facility as the Toronto Gift Fair, a CanGift production. These are the two largest business-to-business jewellery and retail gift shows in Canada and buyer attendance approximates 12,000 annually.

New Features CJA & CJ Expos VIP Lounge – introducing this year, this new lounge can be attended by buyers through a personalized invitation by a participating exhibitor or as a member of the CJA. The VIP Lounge will offer complimentary beverages and a quiet respite to assist guests in interacting with business associates.

Champagne & Chocolate Sampling Bar – enough said!

Special Events and Features Opening Night Reception: Complimentary to all buyers and exhibitors. Enjoy an evening of beverages and light food fare.

Date & time: August 9, 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.

Location: The International Centre, Aviation Ballroom (adjacent to Hall 5) Sponsored by: Canadian Jewellers Association, Beverly Hills Jewellers and CJ Expos

Beverly Hills Jewellers

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EXHIBITORS A.R.Z. Group Inc.

Danish Design Watches

Kate Spade Watches

Silverman Chapman & Reese Consulting

AB AETERNO

Dare To Be Canadian

Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery (Canada) Inc.

Sindbad Diamonds

Access Security Products Ltd.

Del Mar Sport and Dive Watches

Lagerfeld Watches

SK Diamonds

Adidas Watches

Diesel Watches

Libman Designs

Skagen Watches

Affordable Creations

Direct Global Trade Ltd.

Livingstone Jewelry Co.

Solid Gold Bands

Almar Inc.

Disney Watches

Madani

Solus Watches

Amberelegance

DKNY Watches

Marc Jacobs Watches

Square Up

Americas Gold

ELLE Time & Jewelry

Maserati Watches

STEELX

Anne Klein Watches

Embix Watch Importing Co.

Michael Kors Watches

Storm Watches

AP Creations Ltd

FILA Watches

Michele Watches

Tai Fook Holdings Ltd.

Aria Jewelry Ltd.

Fiori Canada Inc.

Nimbark Jewellery

Tatiana Jewellery Design Inc.

Armani Watches

FIORI Watches

Noble Gift Packaging

The Nirvana Corporation

Best Bargains

Fire and Ice Canadian Diamond

Nordlights Jewelry Design Center

Tory Burch Watches

Beverly Hills Jewellers Ltd.

Forever Ice Canadian Diamond

Obaku Watches

Trollbeads+A23

BKJ Canada

Fossil Canada

PAJ Canada

Truly Canadian Certified Gold

Blue Hill Creative inc.

Gold & Silver House

Perfect Together

Vince Camuto Watches

Blushing Bride

Haseer Heritage Jewelry

Police Watches & Jewellery

Viola Italic

Canadian Jeweller Magazine

I Am Made In Canada Jewellery

Prestige Pak Inc.

Wedding Bells Canadian Diamond

Canadian Jewellers Association

Intergem Diamonds Ltd.

Rajdular Group Inc.

Wellspring Financial

Continental Geneve Watches

Ital Can

REIGN by PAJ

X Jewellery

Continental Pearl Canada Inc.

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

Relic Watches

Zeghani

Corona Jewellery

Jewellery Business Magazine

Ritone Design Ltd.

Zodiac Watches

Dancing Diamonds

John’s Wholesale

Royal Canadian Mint Watches

Educational Sessions On Sunday, August 9 and Monday, August 10, all jewellery retailers and exhibitors are invited to attend the following informational sessions while enjoying continental breakfast and beverages.

Sunday, August 9 8:30 a.m. to 9:25 a.m. - Social Media Marketing - Improve Your Online Presence 9:35 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. - Store Design, Layout, Traffic Flow and Product Placement – Best Hiring Practices and How to Keep Good People Monday, August 10 8:30 a.m. to 9:25 a.m. - Social Media Marketing - Improve Your Online Presence 9:35 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. - Family Business Succession Planning

Speakers Ryan Holtz – Social Media Marketing - Improve Your Online Presence Holtz is an internationally recognized marketer who is a trainer, public speaker and marketing consultant specializing in automotive, real estate and retail, including jewellery. He will demonstrate the development of Facebook, Twitter and other tools to improve your business image and sales.

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Barbara Crowhurst – Store Design, Layout, Traffic Flow and Product Placement – Best Hiring Practices and How to Keep Good People Crowhurst, North America’s leading Retail Business Coach and CEO of Retail Makeover, will share her expertise about creating an effective store culture, where to look for the best people available and hiring only people who display ownership and will best represent your brand. To round out this very important topic, she will give step-by-step information on how to keep good employees.

Danielle Walsh – Family Business Succession Planning Walsh is the founder and Principle of Walsh Family Business Advisory Services, a consulting firm that specializes in assisting family owned and operated businesses navigate the rough waters of management and ownership succession.

She is a Certified Public Accountant (CPA), Chartered Accountant (CA) and a member of the Family Firm Institute (FFI), an international association of family business professionals providing in depth information on family businesses from around the world as well as ongoing education and training in the field of family business consulting.

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CJ Expos Edmonton

is here, and you’re invited Feature AUGUST 2015

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Customgold Manufacturing Ltd.

Rousseau ELLE Jewelry

Special Events and Features Opening Night Reception: Complimentary to all buyers and exhibitors. Enjoy an evening of beverages and light food fare.

Date & time: August 16, 6 p.m. to 8 p.m.

Location: Shaw Conference Centre, Hall D, Outdoor Patio on the River (adjacent to Edmonton exhibition Halls B, C) Sponsored by: Beverly Hills Jewellers & CJ Expos Daily Ice Cream Cart The Canadian Jewellers Association is inviting everyone to stop by its booth and enjoy a complimentary ice cream on Sunday and Monday from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. and Tuesday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Crack the Safe and Win Sponsored by Wingenback Inc., this fun little contest allows show goers to try and open a safe that they can actually win!

Educational Sessions On Sunday, August 16 and Monday, August 17, all jewellery retailers and exhibitors are invited to attend three engaging and informational sessions that will include a continental breakfast and complimentary beverages.

Sunday, August 16 8:30 a.m. to 9:25 a.m. – Social Media Marketing - Improve Your Online Presence 9:35 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. – Family Business Succession Planning Monday, August 17 8:30 a.m. to 9:25 a.m. – Social Media Marketing - Improve Your Online Presence 9:35 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. – Jewellery Business Safety & Security Seminar

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Shelly Purdy for Maple Leaf Diamonds

Location: SHAW CONFERENCE CENTRE 9797 Jasper Avenue, Hall B & C Edmonton, AB T5J 1N9 Dates & Times: Sunday, August 16 - 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Monday, August 17 – 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Tuesday, August 18 – 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

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EXHIBITORS 925 Solutions

Danish Design Watches

John’s Wholesale

Silverman Chapmam & Reese Consulting

Access Security Products

Dare To Be Canadian

Karat Imports (2012) Ltd.

Sindbad Diamonds

Adidas Watches

Del Mar Sport and Dive Watches

Kate Spade Watches

SK Diamonds

Almar Inc.

Diesel Watches

Kin Chong Gems

Skagen Watches

Americas GOLD

Disney Watches

Korite International

Solus Watches

Anne Klein Watches

DKNY Watches

Lagerfeld Watches

Spectrum Imports Inc

Armani Watches

Dong Long Ju Co Ltd (DLJ)

Livingstone Jewelry Co.

Square Up

Artco Group

ELLE Time & Jewelry

Maple Leaf Diamonds

STEELX

B B Impex

Embix Watch Co.

Marc Jacobs Watches

Storm Watches

B&S (Canada) Ltd.

Empress

Maserati Watches

Tai Fook Holdings Ltd.

Best Bargains

FILA Watches

Michael Kors Watches

Tecimer Jewellery Limited

Beverly Hills Jewellers Ltd.

Fire and Ice Canadian Diamond

Michele Watches

Tory Burch Watches

BKJ Canada

Forever Ice Canadian Diamond

Nimvark Jewellery

Trollbeads

Blue Hill Creative Inc.

Fossil Group

Noble Gift Packaging

Truly Canadian Certified Gold

Blushing Bride

Gemsparkle Ltd.

PAJ Canada

Vince Camuto Watches

Broker Age General Insurance

Genius Diamond Ltd.

Paragems

Viola Italic

Canadian Jeweller Magazine

Gold & Silver House Ltd.

Perfect Together

Wedding Bells Canadian Diamond

Canadian Jewellers Association

Greenwood General Insurance

Premier Pearl & Gem Co.

Wingenback Inc.

Canadian Rocks

HRA Group

R.S. Gem Connection Ltd.

X Jewellery

CBE Inc.

I Am Made In Canada Jewellery

REIGN by PAJ

Zeghani

Continental Geneve Watches

Image Design

Relic Watches

Zodiac Watches

Corona Jewellery

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co.

Rembrandt Charms

Courtney Gold

Jewelhouse Canada

Rodriguez & Rodriguez Caribbean Jewelry

Customgold

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

Rousseau Chain

Dancing Diamonds

Jewellery Business Magazine

Royal Canadian Mint Watches

Speakers David Sexton – Jewellery Business Safety & Security Seminar Sexton is Vice President of Loss Prevention at Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company headquartered in Neenah, Wisconsin. Discover how you can combat changing crime-related threats, so the only trends you lose sleep over are the latest designer styles. Jewelers Mutual is the only insurance company in the U.S. and Canada that specializes exclusively in protecting the jewellery industry and individuals’ jewellery.

Ryan Holtz – Social Media Marketing - Improve Your Online Presence Holtz is an internationally recognized marketer who is a trainer, public speaker and marketing consultant specializing in automotive, real estate and retail, including jewellery. He will demonstrate the development of Facebook, Twitter and other tools to improve your business image and sales.

Best Bargains

Danielle Walsh – Family Business Succession Planning Walsh is the founder and Principle of Walsh Family Business Advisory Services, a consulting firm that specializes in assisting family owned and operated businesses navigate the rough waters of management and ownership succession.

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The next generation in jewellery design CJ Expos and Beverly Hills Jewellers are proud to present the nine finalists for the 2015 Vaccaro Family Scholarship.

by Irina Lytchak

BACK IN 2013, BEVERLY HILLS JEWELLERS AND CJ EXPOS teamed up to announce the creation of a scholarship for outstanding jewellery students – the Vaccaro Family Scholarship. Now its in second year, the competition continues to receive entries all the way from Vancouver to Halifax with students competing for Canada’s largest scholastic prize for Jewellery Design.

This year’s competition theme was ‘Ladies’ Night Out.’ The initial goal of the Vaccaro Family Scholarship program was to attract young individuals with an unrelenting passion for creating jewellery and a drive to succeed in the industry.

This year, the initiative has received nine entries from jewellery design and metalsmithing programs across Canada. The pieces submitted will be on display at the upcoming CJ Expos exhibits in Toronto and Edmonton and attending retailers will be able to vote on and select the winner. The winner is set to receive a $3,000 prize and an exhibition space at the 2016 edition of the CJ Expos. An additional $1,000 will go to the winner’s accrediting institution.

This scholarship is a great launching point for an aspiring jeweller’s career and an invaluable way to gain exposure and recognition for design and craftsmanship within our industry.

The official sponsor, John Vaccaro of Beverly Hills Jewellers, says he is proud to be a part of this scholarship because it’s “a great way to give something back to this industry that has been so good to me and my family.”

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Amanda Green Vancouver Community College After working in the fashion industry for over 12 years, Green eventually rejected the limitations of designing under the constraints of corporate companies and focused solely on jewellery making. Today, she is inspired by modernism, paired with quality and craftsmanship, and believes that there is room for jewellery to be both an art and a craft.

Lina Maria Avendano George Brown College In 2004, Avendano began studying Industrial Design at the Pontificia Bolivariana University in Colombia and that’s where she first found the magic that comes with making jewellery. Her admiration for the various elements found in nature is what inspires each piece of her work.

Mariya Karpenko Vancouver Community College “I have always been a storyteller, and I believe my jewellery can tell tales. Like many storytellers, I borrow as much as I invent. I like combining the old with the new, and taking inspiration from various ancient cultures. My entry in this competition is inspired by ancient Egyptian imagery. To me, the pendant symbolizes both strength and beauty, a perfect talisman for a ladies’ night out.”

Nathalie Maiello Nova Scotia College of Art and Design University “My interest lies in the relationship an individual may have with a piece of jewellery; how the meaning and the visual impact fluctuates when worn. The intimacy between the object and the wearer may be lost when extended to the viewer but it opens a visual dialogue between all three.”

Prisilla Hui Ontario College of Art and Design University “I have always been passionate about gemstones and jewellery and knew at an early age that jewellery designing was what I absolutely wanted to do. What draws my creativity are all the intricate details and philosophies of life through my observations; living in the present and capturing the beautiful moments like a kind smile.”

Mana Mazaheri George Brown College “Pieces of metal, stones, colours, and textures around me are the forces that help me shape and make my jewellery designs. I draw inspiration from ancient cultures and nature. I do believe art is a universal language. My voice is heard when the hammering, bending, cutting, soldering and setting is done; my jewellery is my connection with others.”

Shuang Feng Ontario College of Art and Design University “I understand the ‘Ladies’ Night Out’ theme as a celebration of abundance and freedom. It is bold, adventurous, and luxurious. The night is a symbol of pure enjoyment and self-indulgence. I intend to combine new technology and traditional techniques in ladies’ jewellery design, and create a bold and unique aesthetic for a modern fashionista.”

Also participating this year: Angie Chu, Ontario College of Art and Design University Laura Struve, Vancouver Community College

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Your Guide to

Expo Prestige 2015

GemDrops

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The 45th edition of the Montreal Expo Prestige is here and it’s the perfect opportunity for jewellers to stock up on the latest designs right before the busy holiday season!

Quebec Jewellers’ Corporation Expo Prestige is organized by the Quebec Jewellers’ Corporation (QJC), an organization that offers jewellers across Quebec the services they need in order to succeed in this industry. Members of the QJC are eligible for services like suggested price lists, accident insurance, security program, pamphlets and certification. The corporation also provides technical seminars and theoretical courses on jewellery, a professional library and employment assistance within the industry.

Atlantic Engraving

Location: PALAIS DES CONGRÈS DE MONTRÉAL (Montreal Convention Center) 201, Viger Avenue West Montréal, QC H2Z 1X7

Dates & Times:

Chrysalis

Sunday, August 23 – 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Monday, August 24 – 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Tuesday, August 25 – 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

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EXHIBITORS

Feature A.R.Z Crystals

Création Le Grenier Ltée. / Ethan Stars

Italgem Tungsten

Police Jewellery

A.R.Z. Group Inc.

Créations Malo Inc.

JAA Silver Gems

Police Watches

A.R.Z. Steel

Crislu Canada

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company

Prestige & Fancy

A.R.Z. Steel For Her

Daniel Klein Watches

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

Promise Canadian Diamonds

Aagaard

Delmar

Jewellery Business

Promo Inc.

Adora

Diamants en Fête

Jewels 4 Ever

Ready Stock™

Affordable Creations

Diane Balit

Jewels By Anita

Re-Defined™ Enviromentally Responsible

Agence Annie Charlebois

Disney

JL - Langevin

Reign by PAJ

Annaleece By DeVries

Doc Toc

Josh de la Hollande

Renata Batteries

Anne Klein

Dong Long Ju Co. Ltd. (D.L.J.)

Kameleon Jewellery

RMR Inc.

Aréli Design

École de Gemmologie de Montréal

Karat Sterling™ Sterling Silver Grain

RNB Jewellery

Aréli Ltée

Egl Usa Bridals

Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery (Canada) Inc.

Rodania Canada Inc.

Argent & Co

Elle Time and Jewelry

Lady Dream

Rodania Mystery

Artic Fox™ Anti Tarnish Silver

Embix Cie D’Importation de Montres

Laser R-Writer (Orotig)

Rodania Swiss Chic

Azur

EMO_ Émotion

Laser Welder Evo (Orotig)

Romeo J

Bagues de Phalange

Emozioni

Legor

Roots watches

Banda Swiss

Empower Yourself

Livingstone Jewelry Co.

Rousseau Chain Ltd.

Banda Swiss Inc.

Energizer Batteries

LokÙs, Bagues de Phalange / Midi Rings

Rovani Swiss Watches

Bandani Watch Straps

Esca

Lorex

Shiny Jewellers

BCouture

Ethan Stars

Lotus Jewellery Ltd / Jewelpop Inc.

Silver & Co

Begli

Eton Mens Ring Collection

Love in Motion

Silver & Co. Inc.

Bella Gold Collections

Eugene Gem, Inc.

Love Mates Jewellery Collection

Silveria Jewellery Collection

Benjamin Jacques

Euroconcept

Lunica

Simon Chang

Bentley

European Design Jewellery Ltd.

Mabensa Inc.

Sindbad Inc.

Best Bargains

Fila

Maple Leaf Diamonds

SK Diamonds

Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg. Ltd

Fiori

Mardini

Solid Gold

Bfly

Fiori Canada Inc.

Maserati

Solus

Bijouterie Almar Inc.

Fire and Ice

Mi Moneda

Sothil Inc.

Bijouteries du Québec

Flica

Midi Rings

Speediometer Official

Bijoux Inox Canada

Flica Inc.

Miss Mimi

St. Moritz Watch Corporation

BKJ Canada

Forever - Match-Set™

MJ Wilman, Inc.

Stamps de l’Allemagne

Blushing Bride

Forever Ice

Mobilier Commercial MTL Display Inc.

Steelx

Boudicca

French Connection

Momentum watches

Sterlium™ Sterling Silver Grain

Butterfly™ Recycled Precious Metals

Gemdrops

Montres Peintes à la Main

Storm

Cacharel

Genius Cut Diamond Collection

Montres Shivas Inc.

Story

Cadoryn

Genius Diamond Ltd.

Navy Seals Time

Superdry

Cadrans Émaillés faits à la main

Gilles Maynard Inc.

Neos

Swarovski Elements

Canadex Retail Group

Giovanni Vaccaro

Nes du Québec

Sylvéa Italy

Canadian Jeweller Magazine

Global Diamond Montréal

Nomaad du Québec (Importation)

Tamar

Casio

Gold & Silver House Ltd

Nomination Italy

Tech-Émotion Inc.

CBE Inc.

Golden Diamonds By GV

Nona Gold Jewellery

Thortuida

CFM Production Ltd. / Madani

Gravograph

Nona Silver Jewellery

Ti Sento

Chrysalis

Gravure Atlantic Ltée

Obaku

Trollbeads

Classic (CL)

Groupe Courchesne / Connoisseurs / Zinzi

Ofer Mizrahi Diamonds

U-Boat

Classique

Hera

Omorfia Watches

Umicore Precious Metals Canada Inc.

Cobalt Chromo

Hi Tech Digital

Ops Objects

United Precious Metal Refining Inc.

Collection MBS

Hirsch

Orca™ Bonded Rings and Tube

Vogue Jewellery Design

Collection Papillon Gemme Inc. / Bfly

Hot Diamonds

PAJ Canada / ELLE Time & Jewelry

Wedding Bells

Colors of your Life

I am Canadian

Paragems

Welder

Comete Gioielli

Ice 925

Pendentifs Pulsion

Zeghani

Connoisseurs

Image Design Jewellery

Perfect Together

Zinzi

Continental Geneve

Ital Can Inc.

Pesavento

Zor

Continental Pearl Canada Inc.

Italgem Steel

Platilite™ Sterling Silver Grain

Corona Jewellery Company

Italgem Steel Group

Platinet™ Sterling Silver Grain

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FOR INQUIRIES CONTACT steelx@paj.ca

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The glitz and glam of

JCK Las Vegas With an updated show floor, this edition of the JCK Las Vegas show offered retailers easier navigation through an impressive line up of jewellery product and innovative technology

by Irina Lytchak

Shelly Purdy for Maple Leaf Diamonds Seasons Collection featuring rose and white gold set with diamonds

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Another edition of JCK Las Vegas 2015 has come to a close following a four-day frenzy of meetings, events, seminars and of course, some fun. Holding the title of North America’s largest jewellery show, JCK saw a four-per cent increase in attendance compared to the previous year, with 2,300 exhibitors welcoming over 22,000 retail buyers from 9,400 stores.

Clockwise starting from top center: Atlantic Engraving gold and platinum men’s band, Galatea Memento Pearl Collection ‘Jewel in the Crown’ 14k yellow gold pendant featuring 14mm opal-nucleated pearl, ruby, Reign by PAJ Bridal Collection, Stuller, Inc. 14k yellow half round hammer finish band, $945, William Henry Sculpted sterling silver bracelet with green/ gray fossil dinosaur bone and diamond, $2,100, ELLE Jewelry Fluidity Collection pieces

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The one thing that made this year a standout was the show’s newly introduced neighbourhoods that made it much easier for visitors to navigate the tremendous space at the beautiful Mandalay Bay Hotel & Casino.

Attendees were able to find exactly what they were looking for by visiting the different areas that housed specific vendors, including neighbourhoods like the Diamond Plaza, Tech, Pearl Plaza, and Hong Kong, to name just a few.

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Clockwise: Endless Jewelry leather necklace with charms, Rembrandt Charms stackable bracelets with charms, Chrysalis Tranquility Collection stackable bracelets featuring agate, quartz, turquoise, jade, amethyst, pearl, porcelain, $57/each bracelet, STEELX stainless steel PVD black men’s bracelet

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This year, show goers found a very strong Canadian presence at JCK, especially when it came to diamonds.

Exhibitors like Maple Leaf Diamonds, CrownRing, Beverly Hills Jewellers, Canadian Ice, and Gemsparkle boasted non-stop traffic throughout the four-day show – a sign that buyers from all over the world are taking notice and tapping into the value of the Canadian diamond.

Clockwise: CrownRing “Orion’s Belt” award-winning wedding band from new CrownRing Rope Collection; diamond brushed finish; 21 scattered diamonds, Stuller, Inc. 14k white diamond semi mount engagement ring, shown with 5.2mm round center (sold separately), $1,885, Noam Carver rose gold floral engagement ring set with 100 round diamonds, 0.50ctw (does not include center stone), Beverly Hills Jewellers 14k white and pink gold ring with princess cut Canadian diamond accented with 56 diamonds, PANDORA Jewelry (from left to right) Alluring Brilliant Marquise $75; Alluring Princess $75; Alluring Petite Brilliant $75; Alluring Brilliant Princess $75; Alluring Brilliant $75

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Rose gold continued to dominate designs for many luxury brands, including names like Le Vian, Pomellato, Zeghani, Effy, and Thomas Sabo. Whether rose gold-plated or solid, jewellery and watches featuring this metal continue to be in high demand for many buyers.

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Top to bottom: Zeghani 14k rose gold pendant with 0.29ctw diamonds and amethyst, $700, Pomellato Victoria Collection, Thomas Sabo Sterling Silver Karma Beads 18k rose gold plated Ring with rose quartz, $794

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And when it comes to watches, the talk of the town is, of course, innovation. As a result of the recent unveiling of the Apple Watch, many Swiss watch houses are on a mission to compete with the rise of the smartwatch. Brands like Frederique Constant boasted their own take on the smartwatch with the release of the Horological Smartwatch, which has bidirectional communication with iPhone and Android apps. Power houses like Citizen, Movado and TW Steel continue to stay innovative with new watch models featuring revolutionary technology and unparalleled designs, reassuring buyers that the art of true watchmaking is not going anywhere any time soon. CJ

Clockwise starting from top: Oris Aquis Depth Gauge with 46mm steel case, blackened case and a yellow rubber strap, Citizen Satellite Wave-World Time GPS, $1,350, Frederique Constant Horological Smart Watch with white dial and stainless steel bracelet, $1,150, TW Steel Pilot VR 46, Manufacture Royale Opera timepiece in 18k gold with mechanical, hand-wound movement, Calibre MR01

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Designer Profile

Branching Out Award-winner Claire Vessot is still making discoveries about the design process

by Sarah B. Hood

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FOR MONTREAL-BASED DESIGNER CLAIRE VESSOT, the creative process is elusive and intangible, but never static; it also seems to thrive best in collaborations. “All the comments, any collaborative input towards the finished piece, team spirit: I believe all that translates into the finished project,” she says.

Perhaps best known for her work with PAJ, where she worked for 16 years (notably as the creative lead for the ELLE Jewelry line) she has received 20 industry awards. The most recent of these is the 2015 Canadian Jeweller’s Editors’ Choice Award (2nd place) recognizing a jewellery piece Vessot created for Beverly Hills Jewellers. The same piece was featured in Swarovski’s internationally distributed publication Gemvisions Trend Directions 2016. Vessot has also been recognized at the JCK Jeweler’s Choice Awards and the AGTA Spectrum Awards, among others.

Although she could certainly be considered a veteran, Vessot says she’s still making new discoveries about the nature of creativity and her own strengths, especially as she’s been exploring the freelance world over the past 18 months. “Being with a company as long as I had been, I had the luxury of working with the input from the Canada team—Mary Milan and her team,” she says. “That was an incredible way to work.”

By contrast, as a freelancer, “I’m out of the environment that’s got this incredible structure and on my own doing different projects with different materials and stones. It taught me what comes naturally and what was a struggle.”

Freelancing brought Vessot to a realization that was both simple and profound: “If I could tell anybody anything, it would be ‘learn what you’re good at and stick with it.” In her own case, Vessot says she often found herself overflowing with ideas when she was called on to design one custom piece, but was unable to use the extra designs because doing so would have undermined the exclusivity of the commissioned piece.

“My ideas are not singular; I’ll do three pieces, not one,” she says. “I realized ‘Claire, you do collections!’ It allowed me to specialize as a brand

Let to right: ELLE Jewelry Essentials cushion lever back earrings with tanzanite CZ, Julianna B Duchesse Collection rose gold over silver ring with black onyx and diamonds, Julianna B Duchesse Collection bangle in sterling silver/rhodium with purple chalcedony, Julianna B Just Because Collection rose gold over sterling silver cuff with lace motif

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Top to bottom: Julianna B Just Because Collection 18k gold over silver cuff with diamond pave/rhodium, Julianna B Joy ring in 14k with blue topaz and diamonds, ELLE Jewelry by Vessot Corset cuff in sterling silver with gunmetal and satin ribbon tie, Beverly Hills Jewellers Honey Swirls 14k gold ring with genuine Swarovski topaz stones and Canadian diamond, Julianna B Duchesse rose gold over silver bangles with black onyx and diamonds

and as collections. Becoming a brand specialist is really rewarding on many levels. When I meet with a client and they have a need for collections or a brand, what I find really fascinating is they’re asking for something that they want: it exists somewhere, but it’s up to me to bring it to life.”

Vessot says she finds her style range has changed a lot as a freelancer.

“With ELLE it was sleek silver. For Beverly Hills Jewellers, their designs run from very classical diamond pieces to swirling gold with coloured stones. But it’s always a sharing of ideas, and that’s what I really love most about doing brand and collections.”

She embraces the digital world: “I’ve always worked with my own style, where I sketch and scan and manipulate in Photoshop, because I like a drawing that has sketch warmth to it. They don’t have to be perfect renderings; they just have to have the right shape and feeling,” she says.

She finds it difficult to describe where her inspirations come from. “It’s always different; sometimes I will just jump in and start sketching with shapes, depending on what the clients want,” she says. “Then the ideas start sharing. It evolves; it’s kind of an intangible process.”

She has developed a term (“splitting”) for a process she’s learned that involves looking at the initial concept like the trunk of a tree, and allowing it to build and branch out into new, related ideas. “The splitting is where one seed branches out into many styles within a range,” she says. “It’s not uncommon for me, when I’m asked to come up with three, to come up with ten.”

Without intending to, Vessot says she’s “carved out a valuable niche in the jewellery industry.” She recently launched a collection for Beverly Hills Jewellers at JCK and is collaborating with Julianna B (“a mother-anddaughter team, one of the largest Internet suppliers”). She promises there will also be a Vessot Collection in the near future.

“For me, it’s about sharing and inspiring passion in others,” Vessot says. “I really do believe that if you follow what comes to you that’s right for you, then it will lead you in the right way.” CJ

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All in the family

John’s Wholesale Jewelry is a family-owned business that has built an impressive reputation on offering exceptional service that keeps the customer coming back for more

by Irina Lytchak

Company Profile

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JOHN ARABATLIAN, OR JOHN JR. AS HE’S KNOWN IN THE INDUSTRY, joined his father’s business when he was 18 years old and hasn’t looked back since.

“I’ve been in the business for 30 years,” he says. “And it’s the one-on-one with customers that I like the most.”

Today, John’s Wholesale Jewelry is known for supplying its long-time customers with a vast array of fine jewellery from all over the world.

“Some of the early customers that gave us the motive to keep going, we still have,” says John Jr. “Some have retired already, but the ones that are still in it, they were the very first customers that believed in my father and I; they were pretty supportive in getting us going. There’s some good people out there that supported us back in the day when we were very small.”

The family-owned business was first established in 1981 and has built a stellar reputation for providing outstanding customer service and for stocking a tremendous selection of inventory.

“We import pretty much everything from A to Z in gold and silver,” says John Jr. “When I say that, I mean we carry the full line of gold chains, silver chains, wedding bands, rings, earrings, pendants – we have everything. We don’t like to say, “No,” so when a customer asks for something, we’ll try to say “Yes.” If we don’t have it, we’ll try to make it.”

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Company Profile

Like father, like son It was John Jr.’s father, John Sr., who started the business first but before doing so, he worked as an electrician. After suffering a work-related injury, John Sr. had to find another way to earn income. At the time, his brother was operating a wholesale jewellery business out of L.A. and suggested that he do the same thing.

During his teens, John Jr. was a hockey player but once an opportunity came up to jump into the business, he told his father, “If I’m not going to play for the NHL, I’ll come out and give you a hand.”

It was then that the father and son team embarked on a journey of manufacturing and eventually wholesaling jewellery across Canada.

These days, John Sr. is semi-retired but he still comes in to open up shop at 5 a.m.

“He loves casting, so we make sure we have plenty of casting for him to do in the morning,” says John Jr.

In the family Not only is John Jr. the president of John’s Wholesale but his sister, Patty Yeterian, is the official in-house accountant and brother, Bobby Arabatlian, leads the entire sales team for the company.

Working alongside her father and brother ever since she was little has allowed Patty to grow a strong fondness for their work and loyal customers.

She even recalls helping her parents out at the Vancouver Jewellery Show back in 1987.

“I love what I do!” she says. “I love working with my customers, most of which I have known since I was a very young girl. Of course, I love working with my family as well.”

Patty officially joined the team after completing university and when her father and brother were still specializing in manufacturing.

But in the years that followed, the industry began to experience a shift that Patty remembers very well.

“At the time, we worked out of a very large warehouse in the suburbs, with large machinery, several goldsmiths, and a small showroom,” she recalls. “As our industry began to change, as did the economy, it became very difficult to turn a

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profit from a manufacturing standpoint. This was when we began to increase our imports and started to move heavily into wholesale and distribution.”

The catalogue Another aspect of John’s Wholesale that makes it stand out in the industry is the company’s convenient, detailed and well coordinated collection of catalogues.

“Our very first catalogue was our Black & White Volume I catalogue. We actually put the wax models onto pads, face down onto the Xerox copier and produced the pages. Believe it or not, we still use this catalogue on a daily basis even though we currently have Volume 24 on the press. This catalogue takes us back to our roots; it just goes to show that we have not lost the simplicities of our nature.”

It’s all about the customer John’s Wholesale’s customers keep coming back because they get what they want time and time again.

“We’re all about making sure the customer is happy with our service, and the quality,” says John Jr. “If there’s a job that needs to get repaired, we’ll do it or replace it at no charge if it’s a factory defect.”

John’s Wholesale still manufactures in-house and specializes in casting, which makes it advantageous to do most repairs right on the spot.

Industry supporter Today, John’s Wholesale is a proud member of the Canadian Jewellery Buyers Group and the Canadian Jewellers Association.

“We take great pride in knowing we are one of the largest wholesalers in Western Canada,” says Patty. “I think we owe much of our success solely to my father, John Sr., for having a manufacturing background and also for paving the way for my brothers and I, in his humble approach to business, and many friendships along the way.”

The team behind the name continues to service its valued customers with quality products and a wide range of selection that continues to bring the customer back for years to come. CJ

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Secure shipping solutions from Jewelers Mutual

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IT MAY SEEM LIKE SIMPLE ADVICE, but you can’t be too careful as you send and receive valuable packages. It’s an everyday risk in the jewellery industry, and shipping losses can be one of the most frustrating sources of insurance claims, creating setbacks for your business, your suppliers and your clients.

Between your shipping company and your business or customer’s door, there are countless opportunities for theft and damage. The good news for jewellery businesses is there are steps that can be taken to help ensure shipments arrive intact and on time.

Follow these five safety tips from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company next time you have merchandise to send.

1. Layer boxes. Place the item you are mailing in a small bag, cover it in bubble wrap and secure it in a small to medium sized box. Place that box in a larger, sturdy mailing box. Larger boxes are less likely to be lost or stolen.

2. Keep it snug and secure. Secure your smaller merchandise box in the larger mailing box with enough packing material so your merchandise doesn’t move during shipping. Seal the box with shipping tape.

3. Disguise your package. Abbreviate or disguise the name of the sender or the recipient. A package marked with a jewellery store name is at a higher risk for theft.

4. Request a signature. When the package arrives at its destination, require a signature to receive the merchandise.

5. Don’t drop it. Don’t use a drop box or a delivery service to post your package.

Schedule a pick up from a mail service or personally take it to the shipping center. Don’t forget to get a receipt with a tracking number. Remember to check

your insurance coverage of the mailed item before you ship it!

After you become a pro at shipping materials, it will be imperative to follow equally important safety precautions when receiving shipments. Follow these five steps after your next delivery.

1. Cross check. Slow down and take the time to ensure you are receiving the right number of packages and the tracking numbers match your expected shipments.

2. Prepare to reject. A package that arrives damaged, opened or in poor condition may have been tampered with during shipping. Don’t hesitate to send it back to the original shipper.

3. Log all incoming packages. Record all packages that have arrived at your store, both that you accept or refuse and have returned to the original sender.

4. Open carefully. Use a well-lit and secure space to unpack items one at a time. Double check all shipping and packing materials thoroughly to ensure merchandise is not caught or hidden, prior to discarding.

5. Send confirmation. Send an email or message to the sender to confirm you received inventory. Don’t forget to also alert the shipper of any damaged packages that were refused upon delivery.

Need a quick reminder? Jewelers Mutual has created videos for jewellers to share with their associates. In just two minutes, jewellers and their teams can view this valuable information on shipping and receiving, along with other loss prevention videos in the Secure Business Series on YouTube.ca/JewelersMutual. For more loss prevention tips, visit the Safety and Security page at JewelersMutual.ca. CJ

AUGUST 2015

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Gemmology

Through the Looking-Glass

Antique jewels provide a unique perspective on cultural history

by Duncan Parker

I AM A BIG FAN OF ANTIQUES. My kids keep telling me I’m one myself, and perhaps that’s why there’s an affinity. An official antique is something that’s at least 100 years old. Fortunately, I’m not quite there, yet.

Antique jewels offer a glimpse into the cultural history of the world. The forms, and colours of fashion, home decor and architecture have influenced elements of design and style in jewellery. Oftentimes, jewels have also been subject to current events. Jewellery materials are greatly impacted by what is available at the time. The advancement of technology has also affected the way in which jewels are made. These factors and more have helped us pinpoint the time, during which a piece of jewellery was made.

For the people of the 19th century, symbolism was extremely important.

Books and courses provided information about the meaning of symbols.

Objects like coral were symbolic of good health and growth and it was commonly found in baby rattles and teething rings. Pearls became a symbol of life and fertility, which is why they are favoured by brides even to this day.

In 1861, Queen Victoria went into mourning following the death of her husband Prince Albert, as a result of which people began to embrace black clothing and jewellery. For the next 30 years, jewellery featuring black shades of jet, enamel, and onyx dominated the English jewellery wardrobe.

Today, a jewellery piece featuring diamonds set in silver is an indicator of age because platinum was rarely used before the 20th century and white gold was invented as an alloy in the 1920s. The cut of a diamond can also indicate age: diamonds with an old mine cut have a slightly square shape, a high crown, small table, and were cut until around 1870.

From 1870 until about 1915, the standard became the round-shaped, old European cut diamond with a high crown, small table, and open culet.

Antique jewels were made in ways that can be used today but instead we now have many more advanced methods that were not available 100 years ago. Older jewellery pieces often show signs of extensive hand labour, but never, for example, will an antique jewel show signs of having been laser welded, unless it was recently repaired. For centuries, jewels have been made using casting techniques, but the modern computer model-makers produce forms, textures and finishes that could not have been made a century before.

We recently held our Dupuis Fine Jewellery June Auction and almost every antique item sold while many pieces reached entirely unexpected heights of bidding. Antique jewellery pieces offer an opportunity to own and wear unique and rare jewels that are not readily replaceable. They offer a glimpse into history. By looking at a piece’s style of design, gems, metals, and manufacturing techniques, we can determine if it’s an authentic antique.

The highlight of the recent auction was a silver, old European cut diamond, conch pearl, and pearl tiara/necklace with delicate flower forms.

The tiara was estimated to sell between $15,000 and $18,000 but ended up going to the highest bidder at $44,000.

It’s very important for a buyer to acquire a piece that’s as close to its original condition as possible. Oftentimes, antique pieces are altered as a result of repairs. It’s common to find a ring that was resized or the claws were retipped, but major alterations to an antique can certainly affect the demand to buy it. These days, as a result of people downsizing their modern lifestyles, we are seeing a great number of antiques coming into circulation. CJ

Duncan Parker, FGA, FCGmA, CAP (CJA), has been an instructor of the gemstone course at Ryerson University, the Gemmology courses of George Brown College and Canadian Gemmological Association as well as instructor of the Master Valuer Program with the Canadian Jewellers Association. A renowned expert, he speaks regularly at international gem and jewellery conferences and symposiums, as well as at less formal events.

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On Display

Endless Possibilities

Think of the wide selection of options your consumer has when it comes to food and apply it to your own jewellery store. Trust me, it works.

by Larry Johnson

TRY DRIVING DOWN ANY BUSY STREET IN YOUR CITY and counting the restaurants. It’s astonishing how much choice we have as consumers when it comes to everyday things like food. There’s fast food, Vietnamese food, home-cooked meals, food served by tuxedoed waiters by candlelight, and the list goes on. The options are endless.

I have chosen three (restaurant-related) jewellery display principles to review in hopes of helping you see your stores’ selection, display and shopping experience from a different perspective.

1. Don’t display your merchandise “buffet-style.”

When you visit a cafeteria or a buffet line, you are presented with all of the day’s food choices in identically sized, stainless steel bins (usually separated from you by a glass partition). You simply pick and choose what you want with little or no interaction with the serving staff. You point, they spoon, you pay. The servers’ role is very passive. No one calls them “salespersons” because they are not. It’s a self-serve experience.

If your store presents the merchandise you offer without intention, you are possibly at risk of having a buffet-style presentation. All of the trays that are the same size are designed to be self-shopped. High-end pieces from your selection are presented just like the rest of the product.

To avoid this, have a plan for your cases. Decide what you want the customer to see first when they step up to the case. Your showcase is a workbench for your sales team. Organize it with the intention to close the sale of the items you want your clients to buy. Try applying the idea of “intention” to my “Top 10 Gift Idea” concept in your cases. A recent client made 17 sales from the top 10 items in the first three days after we implemented it! (Feel free to send me an email requesting a copy of the idea.)

2. De-emphasizing dollars and cents makes sense.

In a Cornell University study, researchers found that menu items priced

at 14 significantly outsold the same items in parallel test stores priced at $14 or $14.00. Dollar signs mean money. Numbers (even zeros!) also subconsciously, mean money. Do not put your prices in a larger or more dominant typeface either. The price is just an extension of the information about the jewellery.

3. Always include an expensive bottle of wine (that’s way out of your average customer’s price range) on your wine list.

Ever look at a wine list and comment to your companion about the $1,500 bottle of wine included on the front page? Who pays those kinds of prices? Answer: Hardly anyone, but the high-ticket item (called a “decoy” in the food trade) does prompt people to open their pocketbook more generously and order a $75-bottle instead of a $40-bottle. People do not like buying the cheapest or the most expensive item on a list or in a display. They tend to gravitate toward the mid-range items.

Try to always stock a “larger than normal-sized” pair of diamond stud earrings (or a diamond solitaire or anniversary band) in your case. Trust me, you’ll sell more of the mid-range item. Make that choice at fullmargin and at about a 20 per cent higher price than your average sales ticket from the same showcase because you are going to sell more of it.

Once in a while, you’ll even sell the “decoy.”

Selling jewellery from a retail shop these days is a difficult business at best. Don’t make it harder than it has to be by ignoring the “human nature of the consumer.” Use their tendencies, perceptions and their subconscious decision-making processes to help you close the sale on the items you want to sell the most. Contact me if you have questions, comments or if I can help you in any other way.

Oops, I have to run now. I’m late for a lunch date. I wonder what the “special” is today! CJ

Larry is the owner of Larry Johnson Consulting based in Colleyville, Texas. His firm works with independent jewellery retailers to help them increase profits by improving the presentation of their merchandise in their stores and it is affiliated with the EDGE Retail Academy. Larry can be reached via his website larryjohnsonconsulting.com, at 817-980-2135, or larry@larryjohnsonconsulting.com.

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Retail Watch

Are Millennials reshaping the retail landscape?

To Google or to Noodle. That is the question of our time!

by Todd Wasylyshyn

THE PHRASE ABOVE STARTED OUT AS A POST by a 21-year-old Facebook friend. I couldn’t resist replying that previous generations used libraries or consulted with experts, friends and family to figure out life’s problems. Then I made a statement that has reverberated ever since. I said, “We’ve noodled more than you’ve ever Googled.” By “noodling” I was referring to the creative process of solving problems using logic and available resources. At the time, I was trying to make the point that baby boomers and Gen Xers not only have access to Google, but they have even better resources and more experience to solve problems.

During the recent JCK Las Vegas show seminars, discussions and sales pitches, I heard many voices claiming to have figured out the tough problem of reaching those Millennials. If this population cohort born from the 1980s to 2000s is dependent upon Googling answers to all of life’s questions, then we need something more than a good website or a hightech point-of-purchase gizmo. What we really need is to take back the authority that true jewellery experts possess.

At a JCK keynote address, Ben Smithee, an expert in marketing, identified three key elements attributed to Millennials. The first is that they patronize brands that have meaning, with perfect examples being Toms Shoes and the ALS Ice Bucket Challenge. Secondly, they honour shared experiences, and therefore give rise to Uber, Occupy movements, Kickstarter, Airbnb and Flashmobs. And thirdly, Millennials enjoy the efficiency of modern technologies.

Well, Gen Xers and baby boomers enjoy meaning too. There’s nothing more meaningful than dealing with people you trust because

they’ve proven over and over again that they’re worthy of it. Patronizing these local heroes rather than Internet-born billionaires means a lot to your community. Baby boomers also enjoy shared experiences like service organizations, dinner parties and country clubs. While the older generations enjoy modern technology, they don’t use it exclusively, because they won’t blindly put trust in someone whose best asset is flashy technology.

While Millennials are proving to be an important market to target, I think they’ve been well targeted by savvy marketers who exploit their weaknesses. Are you one of those savvy marketers? Can you incite their loyalty by orchestrating the most outrageous flash mob they’ve ever seen?

Can you stream all of your suppliers’ real-time inventories into a slick, mobile-friendly e-commerce site that will blow their minds? Can you equip it with social responsibility, environmental friendliness, and make it gluten-free at the same time? That’s one way to target Millennials.

The other way is to craft a spectacular in-store experience that is hands-on and loaded with easy to digest product knowledge. Research and rehearse better answers to those easily dispensed online. Build value through meaning so that you take away the cost efficiencies of webbased retailing. Stress the shared experience that you have a relationship with a designer who doesn’t sell on the web, but whose designs are exquisite and exclusively available through homegrown businesses such as yourself.

Stand firm with the confidence that bricks-and-mortar retailing is still the best and most meaningful way to buy precious gifts of love. CJ

Todd has been an active member of the jewellery industry for over 20 years and currently reps for Customgold Manufacturing Ltd., Keith Jack, and Courtney Gold of Vancouver.

Check out his blog at toddwaz.blogspot.com.

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JVC Column

An invisible border to crime

by John Lamont, Director of Crime Prevention, JVC

AT THE BEGINNING OF MARCH, I travelled to Fort Lauderdale, Florida to attend a jewellery security seminar hosted by the Jewelers Security Alliance (JSA). I was accompanied by three young police investigators from two different police services in Canada; Sergeant Darren Funk from Saskatoon Police Service and Detectives Michael Mullen and Michael Palermo from Toronto Police Service.

Before I go any further, I want to mention that I have been active in the crime fighting industry in Canada for over 40 years. After spending three days with these three young officers and sharing many war stories, my confidence in policing in Canada has been secured for the present and well into the future. These are fine, very motivated and dedicated young officers who will continue this battle long after I’m gone.

I have often been asked, “How is jewellery crime in Canada compared to that of the United States?” Many think our crime rates must be much lower.

Well, if you Google a population comparison between Canada and the U.S., you will find that the ratio is approximately 10 to 1; the U.S. has roughly 300 million people and Canada, just over 30 million.

At the seminar, JSA released the 2014 year-end jewellery crime report and Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) has also recently released the 2014 Canadian report. The comparison is uncanny. On a per capita basis, jewellery crime is the same between the two countries. Take a look at the figures below: CATEGORY Population Robbery Burglary Theft

USA 320 million $34.0 million $18.7 million $11.2 million

CANADA 35 million $3.1 million $2.1 million $430,549

10.94% 9.12% 11.23% 3.84%

Discussions at the seminar surrounded the mobility of organized criminal gangs that target the jewellery industry and how they travel hundreds and even thousands of miles to commit their criminal acts. The same is true for Canada. In 2014, a robbery was committed in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan and the suspects were arrested in Montreal; some merchandise was recovered, also in Montreal.

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The greatest tool law enforcement has for dealing with this high mobility is the sharing of information through networking, not only with the law enforcement community but with industry members as well. Associations such as JVC and JSA have email networks across both the U.S. and Canada, where information can be disseminated quickly to jewellery members and law enforcement at the same time.

Members of the JVC network may recall the many successes JVC has had in the past involving international thieves. In the instance of the expensive Tanzanite ring theft, the Toronto Police had contacted JVC and provided surveillance pictures of the subjects responsible for the burglary.

The pictures came from the victim’s security cameras. The police requested that JVC distribute these pictures throughout its network. Within hours of the alert going out, the police were contacted by a JVC member who indicated these subjects had been in their store. Store staff were aware of these men because they had just received the JVC Alert and they were able to watch them very closely. When the subjects were unable to steal any merchandise, they left the store and staff obtained the license plate number on their car. It was turned over to police who were able to identify the subjects. After they were arrested, police discovered the thieves were members of an organized crime unit with international ties.

Anthony Robbins once said, “You see, in life, lots of people know what to do, but few people do what they know. Knowing is not enough! You must take action.” The store staff in this instance took action.

Judging by the merchandise losses shown in the previous chart, we find ourselves in a challenging time as highly mobile criminals are able to travel on both sides of the border. The police in both Canada and the U.S. are also facing challenges with tight budgets and minimum staffing. Our industry must step up to the plate and help each other whenever possible.

Martin Luther King, Jr. said, “The ultimate measure of a man is not where he stands in moments of comfort and convenience but where he stands at times of challenge and controversy.”

Networking on both sides of the border creates knowledge; knowledge gives us power and control over unpleasant situations. Join the JVC network. CJ

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an event worth its weight in gold

Jewellers Vigilance Canada invites you to: THE JEWELLER’S BALL, NOVEMBER 21, 2015 The King Edward Hotel, 37 King St. East, Toronto, Ontario

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TICKETS ARE $375.00 PER PERSON + HST | BLACK TIE EVENT WITH VALET PARKING

For more information call 416.368.4840 or 800.636.9536, or email info@jewellersvigilance.ca Jewellers Vigilance Canada | An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry.

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Send summer off with a bang As the season draws to a close, it’s time to go bold or go home with bright pops of colour and cheeky prints.

With the warm weather still upon us, it’s very appropriate to show some skin. If your client is looking for something both feminine and striking, try a colourful minidress with some elegant, gold stilettos.

Pair the look with understated accessories to keep things simple.

For a more modest client, try a strappy, full-length jumpsuit with an eye-catching print.

Add to the fun with a bright handbag and flat sandals.

Chic silver jewellery is especially trendy this season; match your clients’ vivid summer look with bold diamond-and-silver earrings or a chunky pendant for a “wow” factor. CJ

Style Council

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1. TOPSHOP Abstract Flippy Dress By Unique, $330, available at Hudson’s Bay, thebay.com 2. TOPSHOP Ruby Metallic High Sandals, $75, available at Hudson’s Bay, thebay.com 3.

Lancaster Paris Mademoiselle Estelly, $369, available at pursebox.ca 4. Nova Diamonds clasp bracelet 5. PANDORA Jewelry Majestic Feathers Ring, $100 (available for purchase on August 27) 6. Thomas Sabo Sterling Silver Glam & Soul earrings, $529 7. Zeghani 14k white gold pendant with 0.32ctw diamonds and quartz, $750

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1. TOPSHOP Foil Pineapple Print Jumpsuit, $75, available at Hudson’s Bay, thebay.com 9. TOPSHOP Fig Lace Up Sandals, $65, available at Hudson’s Bay, thebay.com 10. Stuller, Inc. 14k white diamond semi mount halo-style, twisted rope design engagement ring, shown with 6.5mm round center (sold separately), $1,515 11. ELLE Jewelry Tango Collection pendant 12. Beverly Hills Jewellers 10k white gold earrings with round Canadian diamonds accented with 15 diamonds 13. Lancaster Paris AnaBowler XBody, $379, available at pursebox.ca 14. Thomas Sabo Women’s 40mm Chronograph stainless steel watch, $529

AUGUST 2015

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Evoking elegance

Not only is the CITIZEN® L Circle of Time a bold and beautiful fashion statement, it’s also part of an iconic collection of watches designed especially for the woman who knows exactly what she likes. Featuring a shimmering mother-of-pearl dial set with seven brilliant diamonds, this elegant timepiece comes in a delicate rose gold-tone. Whimsical and classic all at the same time, the CITIZEN® L Circle of Time is the perfect wristwatch for the perfect lady. ($795) CJ

Last Word

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2015-07-16 12:15 PM

TIME & JEWELRY

Find an authorized dealer at ELLEJEWELRY.COM elle@paj.ca

Find an authorized retailer at ELLEJEWELRY.COM

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2015-07-10 11:28 AM

Mirage Creations Inc. 221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4 Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677 www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com

CJ AUGUST 2015_FP.indd 100

2015-07-10 11:29 AM