The independent voice for the industry since 1879
FEBRUARY 2014
Canadian Jeweller Magazine
DESIGNER PROFILE CJ INTERVIEW
Hillberg & Berk thinks outside of the box Mikimoto: Celebrating 120 years in the business
EN FRANÇAIS Un collectif de 14 joailliers expose à la Galerie Noel Guyomarc’h. À découvrir.
Sean+Mark
COUNTDOWN TO OUR
135th Anniversary Scan me to go to our website
The Official Magazine of the Canadian Jewellery Tradeshows CMCA AUDITED
6 0 B L O O R S T R E E T W E S T S U I T E 110 6 T O R O N T O O N TA R I O M 4 W 3 B 8 / $ 2 5
Mani Jewellers
Perfecting the art of servicing the financial district
24 Gold Group Ltd. Gold Dealer & Refining Company
Brillian ce mee ts
march 27 – april 3, 2014
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10/23/13 1:50 PM
11th Floor 151 Yonge Street Toronto Ontario M5C 2W7 www.tresorparis.ca | hugh@tresorparis.ca | tel: 647-775-8433 | fax: 647-775-8301 facebook.com/TresorParis |
twitter.com/tresorparis
Je T’AIME Collection
of only $99 so your customers will know that you are “The source” for all monogram jewelry. Call Overnight for a free copy of this Monogram collection brochure.
Personalized Catalogs Overnight’s 600 page Volume 5 catalog is available with your company name or logo custom printed on the covers – at no cost to you - so you can promote your store brand rather than your manufacturers name. Be proud to pull out YOUR special order book!
Custom Crafted Overnight’s “Custom Crafted” department provides retailers the ability to say “YES we can” to any customer’s special request. Overnight will modify existing designs, change stone shapes and sizes, and make totally custom models for their customers. Overnight can provide CAD renderings and models, or provide hand-made models based on the specific job requirements.
Silver Collection Overnight’s Silver collection offers high quality, fashion forward designs, at very affordable prices. The entire line is IN STOCK for immediate shipment and, as with all of Overnight’s IN STOCK products, the collection comes with a 10-day no-questions-asked return policy. The Silver collection is showcased in Overnight’s 36 page catalog – call for a free copy.
Monogram Collection Monograms are one of the hottest selling categories in the industry and Overnight is the premier manufacturer for laser-cut, high quality Monograms. Overnight manufactures monograms for rings, pendants, earrings, and bracelets, in multiple styles and sizes, and in 10k, 14k and silver, in white, yellow, and rose finishes. Overnight guarantees delivery within 10 business days so retailers don’t have to lose those “close to holiday” sales. Need a display? Overnight provides displays at a cost
$4,900
Gold & Diamonds
$23-$14
AUTHENTIX SAMPLE
Authentix Sample Lines
Overnight’s “Authentix” sample line provides retailers alloy samples (rhodium and gold plated) for display in their showcases. The Authentix line has proven to be very successful in generating sales for thousands of Overnight’s retailers. For as low as $14 per sample (when purchasing the full 6ft display) Overnight’s Authentix samples are not only the most affordable in the industry, but they allow retailers to display the latest bridal fashion trends to keep their store current at a fraction of the cost of live samples.
Sales Representatives If you’d like to set an appointment with our Canadian Sales Team, please call Overnight Mountings at 888-731-1111 and we’ll work with you to set up a time for our representatives to come to your store. T: 888.731.1111 | F: 888.222.2121 sales@overnightmountings.com www.overnightmountings.com
12/10/13 12:42 PM
Who are we... With an emphasis on design, quality, and speed of delivery, Overnight Mountings provides immediate shipment of IN STOCK polished blank mountings and 5 day delivery of semi-mounts or polished blanks in Platinum, Palladium, 10k, 14k, 18k, Silver and 7 different diamond qualities. Recognized as one of the highest quality semi-mount manufacturers in the industry, Overnight confidently offers a 10 day no-questions-asked return policy for all IN STOCK products. Overnight is on the cutting edge of fashion so if your customers are asking for it – Overnight has it for you.
Bridal Selection
New Website!
Overnight provides mountings and semi-mounts for all categories: including color stone rings, pendants, and earrings, diamond fashion styles, gents rings, mothers rings, diamond pendants and earrings, and much more, but it's main focus and strength is Bridal jewelry. Overnight continually releases new bridal designs with highly detailed designer looks – but without the designer price tag. With Overnight’s flexibility, manufacturing capabilities, and speed of delivery, you can order Overnight bridal designs in Platinum, Palladium, 10k, 14k, 18k, Silver and in 7 diamond qualities. Give Overnight's Bridal a try and you will understand why Overnight’s customers have come to “Expect more”…
Overnight’s new web-site,
7086_OV_CanadianJewellerAdvertorial_Vs3_Revised.indd All Pages
www.overnightmountings.com is being hailed as one of the most user friendly and retail driven web-sites in the industry. With rapid and secure online ordering, access to inventory positions and account information, up to the minute pricing in all metals and 7 diamond qualities, image downloads, frequent “New style” updates, and Overnight’s “search by stone” feature, Overnight’s web-site will help you close more sales! The site is triple key priced at daily metal markets for your customers to view, and will display actual costs when you log in. Overnight can provide retailers images and information for their site, or can provide the entire Overnight site to retailers with the retailer's logos and information.
FEBRUARY 2014
The independent voice for the industry since 1879
Canadian Jeweller Magazine ESTA BLISHED 1879
Vol. 135 / No. 02
OLI V IER FELICIO
Jean-Christophe Bédos, Maison Birks, President & CEO
I R I N A LY T C H A K K AV I T A S A B H A R WA L
Stronger together
M AYA A K BAY
Maison Birks dominated the Canadian landscape throughout the 20 th century, and not only has it celebrated many fine moments with Canadians across the land, but it has also garnered a multitude of awards marking its concepts and designs. This philosophy of excellence has attracted talented individuals such as current President and CEO Jean-Christophe Bédos. Jean-Christophe Bédos was president and CEO of luxury brand jeweller Boucheron International, Paris (Gucci Group, PPR) from May 2004 to June 2011. Previously, he was the managing director of Cartier France from 2002 to 2004. Today, Mr. Bédos is based at Birks’ head office in Montréal, Canada.
GILLI A N SYCH ERIN BOOTH TA M A R A K E L LY CONTRIBUTORS
Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / irina@canadianjeweller.com Editorial Assistant / kavita@thergmgroup.net Editorial Intern / intern@gorgmgo.com Art Director / gillian@faith.ca Production Manager / production@rivegauchemedia.com Production Design Intern / intern.production@thergmgroup.net Maria Laura Barreto, Véronique Dubé, Sarah B. Hood, Larry B. Johnson, John Lamont, Liza Marley, Stephanie Martyniuk, David Maus-Berkley, Duncan Parker, Kuldip Rupra, Beth Saunders
SALES LUC Y HOLDEN
Associate Publisher tel: 416-203-7900 x6117 / email: lucy@thergmgroup.net
J EFF YA M AGUCHI
Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6122 / email: jeff@thergmgroup.net
J A S O N C AW L E Y
Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6134 / email: jason@thergmgroup.net
C I R C U L AT I O N GA RT H AT K INSON
Publication Partners 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, Ontario L1V 1A1
Editorial Board
toll free: 1-877-547-2246 / email: cj@publicationpartner.com
Jean-Christophe Bédos Maison Birks, President & CEO
HEAD OFFICE
60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3B8 tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392
Haigo Derian L’Oro Jewellery
toll free: 1-888-358-8186 x6117
Gino DeVuono Movado Group of Canada
MELANIE SETH
Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com
ER IN POR EDOS
Marketing & Events Coordinator / erin@thergmgroup.net
LOUISE CÔTÉ
Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive
MONTREAL OFFICE
Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada
Credit Manager / louise@gorgmgo.com 2348 Lucerne, Suite 230, Mont-Royal, Quebec H3R 2J8 tel: 514-381-5196 fax: 514-381-6223 SUBSCRIPTION RATES
Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc.
Canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rate (Canada only, for six or more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per year.
Phyllis Richard Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc.
email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1
CHANGE OF ADDRESS
Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd. Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Mart Inc.
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PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8.
Beth Saunders Canadian Jewellery Group
F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 4
Simply the best designs!
In Stock as Semi-Mounts and Polished Mountings in 14 karat for next day delivery and available in all metals and 7 diamond qualities very quickly. Alloy samples available. Overnight...Expect More...
T: 888.731.1111 | F: 888.222.2121 | sales@overnightmountings.com | www.overnightmountings.com
Departments
Contents
26
24
16 EDITOR’S LET TER
32
18 LET TER FROM THE BOARD 19 CONTRIBUTORS / BEHIND THE SCENES
70 CELEBR ATING 135 YEARS 72 SHOWCASE / MARKETPL ACE
20 PRODUCT SHOWCASE 24 STAR WATCH Celebrities show off their fiercest ensembles, rocking the red carpet in the boldest dresses and jewellery we've seen yet.
80 ST YLE COUNCIL Romance is in the air and anyone can be part of the action with these jewellery picks.
26 FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events
82 L AST WORD Celestial Sensation
56
By Kavita Sabharwal
30 MINING NEWS Examining the other, equally important and very human face of the world of mining – artisanal and small-scale mining. By Maria Laura Barreto
32 CJ GALLERY Gucci settles in at Bijouterie Italienne; Joolz Bar à Bijoux redefines the idea of a jewellery store. 56 CJ INTERVIEW Mikimoto America celebrates its 120th anniversary this year, continuing a legacy of being the expert on pearls.
CJ en français 42 Les Nouvelles 45 TR ANSPARENCE: UN COLLECTIF DE 14 JOAILLIERS EXPOSE à L A GALERIE NOEL GUYOMARC'H DE mONTRÉal February 2014 cover photographed
^ Next issue cover spotlight:
by Stephanie Martyniuk
Lou Goldberg - Montreal Jewellery
By Kavita Sabharwal
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Features & Columns
Contents
52
36
36 ON THE COVER A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS Mani Jewellers in downtown Toronto are experts when it comes to servicing the financial district. By Irina Lytchak
48 COMPANY PROFILE Stuller Inc. had a very successful run in 2013 and shows no signs of slowing down. By Irina Lytchak
62 58
ON DISPL AY How to correct the most common display mistake retail jewellers make. By Larry B. Johnson
60 JVC REPORT Simple additions to your showcase can make all the difference in avoiding robbery.
50 DESIGNER PROFILE Rachel Mielke, the face behind jewellery brand Hillberg & Berk, knew what she was doing when it came to using social media in promoting her designs.
By John Lamont
By Sarah B . Hood
By Kuldip Rupra
52 MALL RETAILING Mall or stand-alone store, we tell you which is best for jewellery retailing.
64 MARKETING+STR ATEGY The five steps you need to know to motivate buying behaviour.
By Liza Marley
By David Maus-Berkley
54 FINANCE THROUGH BANKS & PRIVATE LENDING Exploring today's options for financing your business.
68 GEMS+GEMMOLOGY The most popular design trends found at modern-day auctions.
By Sarah B. Hood
By Duncan Parker
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62 KEEPING TIME Keeping up with the ever-changing watch repair technology.
F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 4 足足足
14-02-06 2:55 PM
FEBRUARY PROMOTION Purchase 5 designs from our genuine Gibeon Meteorite Collection & receive our JCK Jewelers’ Choice Award Winner for FREE ($460 retail value)
All styles available in Titanium, Cobalt Chrome, Black Zirconium, Gold and Platinum
www.lashbrookdesigns.com info@lashbrookdesigns.com (888) 252-7388 50,000+ AMERICAN MADE Designs
Editor's Letter
Looking to a bright future IRINA LYTCHAK, MANAGING EDITOR
I THINK I SPEAK FOR MANY OF YOU when I say that there is a slight sense of relief that we're in the month of February now. With the chaos of the holiday season well behind us, it's time now to take a positive and hopeful look at 2014. The upcoming months hold so many exciting events for the jewellery industry. Not only did we just pass the stunning VicenzaOro Winter 2014 and SIHH 2014 shows, but we couldn’t be more thrilled about the upcoming Baselworld 2014 and what the JCK Las Vegas Show will have in store for the industry this year. (Look out for some amazing coverage of Basel in our March/April and May issues!) In the spirit of looking toward a bright and fruitful future, I wanted this issue to give you the right tools for guaranteeing the success of your business. That’s why we are focusing on the financial aspect of running your company and offering you several features that give an in-depth look into the kind of financial planning needed to optimize your revenues or to be best prepared for a new venture. Liza Marley's article on page 52 gives you the pros and cons of owning a location inside a mall and what the challenges and benefits are of retailing in an independent space. Sarah B. Hood's “Capital Ideas” on page 54 is an excellent examination into what is out there when it comes to the financing options for your business. On page 58, you will find another excellent piece from Larry B. Johnson on how to make the most of your jewellery displays in “What’s Your Intention?” And on page 30, Maria Laura Barreto continues to give us an exhilarating look into the world of mining in “Digging deeper into artisanal and small-scale mining.” This month, we are also shining a spotlight on a very bright Canadian talent on page 50 in “Prairie Flower.” Jewellery brand Hillberg & Berk is a perfect example of how using social media and self-promotion can lead to success. The brand has already garnered a mass following through Facebook and Twitter and designer Rachel Mielke, the face behind the brand name, has appeared on CTV’s Canada AM and CBC’s The National. This is also why you should definitely turn to page 64 for David MausBerkley's marketing column “Are your sales efforts persuasive?” on the five most essential elements of a convincing sales pitch. Putting these particular tools to use will ensure the best possible results when it comes to selling your product. In the meantime, stay tuned for a number of wonderful bridal-centered features and tips on engagement jewellery in our next issue, due out in the beautiful season of spring! CJ
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The Heart & Soul of Wedding Bands
The more things change the more they stay the same. Atlantic’s commitment to quality never changes.
www.atlanticengraving.com 1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Qc. T: 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 E: info@atlanticengraving.com
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Letter from the Board
Beth Saunders General Manager, Canadian Jewellery Group Co-Operative Association
HAVING SPENT TWENTY-THREE YEARS in the Canadian jewellery industry, I can honestly say that it has been a wonderful and ongoing learning experience. Following a fifteen year career in Canadian banking, I found the innovative and entrepreneurial focus of our independent retail members both challenging and rewarding. Working for Canada’s largest buying group of independent jewellery retailers has given me the opportunity to appreciate the many challenges faced by our members, from the need for uniformity in a geographically diverse marketplace, to staffing issues and, of course, competition from the larger chain stores. The challenges faced by independent businesses in Canada are getting more complex. In our industry, succession planning that includes a son or daughter taking over the business is much less predictable than it used to be in the past. In many cases, some businesses are forced to close their doors when faced with limited opportunities to sell. But despite all of these difficulties, our members’ ability to network and share concerns, as well as combine their energies to develop alternative strategies, has given buying groups like ours a real advantage and has reduced the isolation often experienced by the independent retailer. I realize now that for a number of years Canadian Jeweller Magazine has provided a similar service, in that it has shared common issues and concerns and suggested solutions. When I was asked to join the editorial board of Canadian Jeweller Magazine, I readily accepted, recognizing the benefits the magazine has provided to our many members. By covering topics like bricks and mortar concerns, in-store marketing campaigns, staffing issues and even fashion trends, Canadian Jeweller Magazine serves as a conduit within the industry, keeping us abreast of the trends in our own market and giving the jeweller a reference guide. I am honoured to be involved in this great industry and appreciate the opportunity to be part of the talented group of individuals who currently sit on the Canadian Jeweller Magazine editorial board. All the best to each and every sector of our industry for a terrific 2014! CJ
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Duncan Parker
Not only is he VP and jewellery specialist at Dupuis Auctioneers in Toronto, but Duncan Parker is also president of The Canadian Gemmological Association and Jewellers Vigilance Canada. An educator in gemmology and jewellery, Parker has worked with jewellery for over 25 years. If anyone is qualified to be our gemmology columnist, it’s him. Read his take on auction jewellery on page 68.
Steph Martyniuk
Based in Toronto, this commercial photographer uses portraiture and documentary photography to convey the divide between realism and imagination. Martyniuk graduated from Sheridan College studying within the applied photography program. She began her career in New York working with Ryan McGinley, who also served as a mentor. Martyniuk shot this issue’s cover and cover story on page 36. Photograph by Aaron Wynia
Sarah B. Hood
This Toronto-based freelance journalist explores the culture of fashion, food and urban living in her many books and articles. Her work has been shortlisted for the National Magazine Awards, the Kenneth R. Wilson Awards (including her work for Canadian Jeweller Magazine!) and the Taste Canada – The Food Writing Awards. For this issue, you can find Hood’s fabulous Designer Profile on page 50 and a Finance Feature on page 54.
Contributors
Behind the Scenes
For this issue, the cover story shoot took place at Mani Jewellers’ elegant Adelaide Street location in downtown Toronto. Store owners Mark and Sean Mani were on hand to be the stars of the shoot and of course, to assist any of the clientele that happened to venture into the store during the production. The brothers looked extra sharp in complementary grey and navy suits. Photographer Stephanie Martyniuk’s techniques helped ease the subjects and make the atmosphere in the store extremely relaxing for everyone. Having to gaze at the store’s wide array of beautiful jewellery and stylish watches between takes was an extra-added bonus. CJ Above photo: Irina Lytchak, Canadian Jeweller Magazine managing editor, Sean Mani, Corina Ciupac, Mark Mani, Janet Heidker, photographer Stephanie Martyniuk, and assistant Michael Chiang Left: Sean being styled
FEBRUARY 2014
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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M
Product Showcase
Atlantic Engraving New from Atlantic Engraving, the Passion Noir Collection includes a gentlemen’s and ladies’ matching duo of a 10k white gold, 6mm comfort fit set with 4 x 0.015cts and a 14k red gold comfort fit set with 4 x 0.01cts diamond cut on seamless tubing blanks.
Nova
Nova Diamonds introduces an extravagant addition to their large collection of high-end bangles. Measuring 5.5 centimeters across, this 18k white gold scroll-inspired bangle consists of over 900 stones, totaling 16.75cts, and is punctuated by an appraisal value of $75,000. Reference code: DBN8-349. Inquire today!
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F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 4
Elle Time and Jewelry ELLE Time and Jewelry collections offer a distinguished look that is chic, modern and bold. Like the pages of ELLE magazine, ELLE jewellery evolves from season to season, merging fashion trends and classic designs together to celebrate a woman’s love for personal style. Best of both worlds, the ELLE “Compass Rose” Collection features designs in sterling silver and gold plating. Who says you can’t have it all?
Lashbrook Lashbrook is a designer, manufacturer, and distributor of performance and precious metal wedding bands. Lashbrook produces 98 per cent of its pieces in its Draper, Utah facility. For additional company information, please visit lashbrookdesigns.com.
FEBRUARY 2014
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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M
Lotus Jewellery Stunning new releases from Kameleon Jewelry®! Sterling silver and Swarovski Crystal pendant, shown with interchangeable JewelPops®. Customize each piece with any of the 450 available JewelPops®. Suggested retail: pendant $49, JewelPops $19-$54.
Product Showcase
GIA
Introducing the GIA 4Cs App – Retailer Edition for iPad. GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used at point of sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate customers about how GIA grades the 4Cs and offers direct access to GIA’s online database of GIA reports.
Stuller It’s 992 pages of everything Stuller has to offer: our most up-to-date, comprehensive assortment of product available. It’s our Mountings 2014-2015 catalogue. With value-added benefits such as rendered photography for enhanced quality, more intuitive navigation and our newest collections in bridal and jewellery, it’s a must-have on your sales counter.
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uccess.
Bridal is the key to your
We have all the pieces to make your bridal business boom. Order finished rings ready for your customer’s hand, or the parts to build them at your bench. At Stuller, you get it how you want it.
Order today, and get them tomorrow.
st uller.com
800 877 7777
CHOOSE • CHANGE • CREATE
Star Watch
The Bold & The Beautiful This season, celebrities put together their fiercest ensembles yet, rocking the red carpet in bold dresses and out of this world jewellery pieces. From bright crystal rings to multi-coloured earrings, no one was afraid to make a statement.
Queen of Sparkle Jaimie Alexander shone in more ways than one at the GQ Men of the Year Party in L.A. The gorgeous star wore a strapless diamante dress by Hervé Léger for Max Azria, which glittered perfectly on her stunning physique. She completed her look with a pair of slim and elegant 18k gold diamond earrings by Demarco ($14,115).
Fire and Stone Amy Adams was a stone cold fox at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s (LACMA) third annual Art + Film Gala in honour of director Martin Scorsese and artist David Hockney. The star’s fiery red hair turned heads as she walked the red carpet in a smouldering Gucci dress perfectly accessorized with a pair of Gucci horsebit cocktail earrings in 18k pink gold with onyx and diamonds ($8,990).
Warrior Princess Sarah Hyland attended The Hunger Games: Catching Fire premiere in L.A. looking every bit like a glamorous warrior in a metallic Sass & Bide bronze dress. Her flowing locks and classic black heels perfectly suited her ensemble while a stately Carrera y Carrera yellow gold and onyx ring ($2,550) completed the entire look.
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From jeweled birds to priceless information, CEO of Dhamani Jewels Group and GIA board member
AMIT DHAMANI
talks about
capturing the high-end consumer. Is that a hawk? A falcon, the national bird of the United Arab Emirates. 10,000 gems, 500 carats. People come from all over to see it. How does a Jaipur jewel business become a Dubai luxury brand? We looked beyond where we were. Markets change. Clients change. You can’t predict. But you can position yourself.
What was your tipping point? We let go of generic jewelry business ideas and took a high-end approach. Which is also a very global approach. Sell an experience rather than just selling a product.
Who is the new fine jewelry customer? Think highly mobile, connected and curious. And they don’t always come in with something specific in mind. So what motivates them? Information. The more you offer, the more they engage. Every month, we hold classes in diamond education, the 4Cs and GIA grading. Why GIA? Dubai has many nationalities. The global consumer is everyone. Familiarity with GIA crosses many different markets and countries. Do GIA grading reports influence a purchase? GIA reports represent transparency and assurance. I think we’re a success in the region because the biggest question in a customer’s mind is already answered when they walk in our door.
Parting insight on the high-end consumer? It starts with a connection. GIA gives retailers an amazing tool. With gem quality established, you’re free to talk about design, artistry or the occasion being celebrated. That’s when the magic happens.
GIA gratefully acknowledges those who have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU
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AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113
PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119
1/9/14 1:09 PM
For the Record
News/Trends/ Events
Chase Clayton named Heinrichs Jewellery’s Player of the Month Chase Clayton of the Saskatoon Blades was named Heinrichs Jewellery’s Player of the Month for December 2013. The 19-year-old veteran forward from Abbotsford, B.C. joined the team in October after starting the season with the Calgary Hitmen. During December, Clayton scored two goals and earned one assist in 11 games, earning him the award. Throughout the season, Clayton earned four goals and 14 points overall, split between Calgary and Saskatoon. "We have enjoyed supporting junior hockey for some time now," says Kent Heinrichs. "It’s fun getting to know these kids and watching their careers develop, plus every now and then I’ll be watching an NHL game and it’s exciting to recognize a player I once gave a watch to." Clayton will be presented with a watch from Heinrichs Jewellery before the game against the Hitmen on Jan. 8, joining Nikita Scherbak and former teammate Collin Valcourt as Player of the Month winners for that season.
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Trollbeads Canada's charity initiative a success In the latter months of 2013, Trollbeads dealers raised over $12,000 through Glass Artisan events held at their various stores. The brand's customers donated to their desired charity to design their own custom bead. Beads were then crafted by glass artisans specially flown in to make the beads as customers watched the process. “We are very proud of our dealers, who put in the effort and were so successful,” says Trollbeads Canada partner Jeremy Bowman. Earthworks of Brampton is recognized for having raised the largest single donation amount of $2,000 toward the Juvenile Research Diabetes Foundation. Other charities that received donations include Alberta Red Cross Food Relief, BC Children’s Hospital, Woman’s Micro-Finance Initiative, CKNW Orphan’s Fund, Saskatchewan Children’s Hospital, Juvenile Research Diabetes Foundation, Hospice Wellington and Fort-St-John Women’s Resources Society.
Barrie jeweller Bill Le Boeuf passes away Long-time Barrie jeweller and watchmaker Bill Le Boeuf passed away on Jan. 12 at the age of 85. Le Boeuf started out his career in 1958 when he bought a jewellery store in Barrie in order to sell his patented invention of a watch-winding gadget. He didn’t know if he could pay the rent of the store, now expanded to twice its size and 56 years old. Le Boeuf went from selling quality costume pieces to higher quality gold and gemstones, giftware and luxury watches. The business struggled with financial downturns and recessions, but “[Le Boeuf] represents hard work, community connection and perseverance,” says Craig Stevens, Downtown Barrie managing director. “We are truly saddened by his passing.” The secret to Le Boeuf’s success, according to his son Adam, was hiring knowledgeable people, such as his financial controller Barb Huddleston. He also worked to relocate the Barrie Country Club from its original location on Sunnidale Road. His son Adam has taken over the business, describing his father as a “tireless, hardworking man with a great sense of pride in his family, the downtown and the Barrie community.” Bill is survived by his wife Joan, children Charlotte and Adam, and grandchildren William and A.J.
Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry now sold at Hudson’s Bay
COLOUR CATALOGUE THE SYSTEM S |TB HU EYSW LM LE YS HA SSET T ET T SY A MSE HE H W T
LSE LH T
ATTS W HM HE LS ELS Y S| U YS T E TBEU | BS Y MY E S L H T
SILVER SILVER JEWELLERY JEWELLERY
AT S E L W HT LS HE S UY Y TE M ST | B |SBYS EM UY T
CHAINS BRACELETS EARRINGS CHAINS BRACELETS EARRINGS PENDANTS RINGSB ANGLES PENDANTS RINGS BANGLES LOCKETS CUBICS... LOCKETS CUBICS...
Ryry STAINLESS CHARMS DISPLAYS BODY JEWELLERY LL S | BUY W S E EM T HE S HAT YS S AT S T TE E H SY W E ML H
Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry has partnered with Hudson’s Bay to bring a series of fine jewellery collections called Journey, inspired by Ivanka Trump’s passion for travel, architecture and design. The series includes four different collections, influenced by Trump’s favourite locations around the globe. Metropolis, a line of 18k yellow gold and diamond jewellery, is inspired by 1920s Art Deco architecture from New York, while the Patras collection is a reinvention of the artistic design of the Art Deco era from the 1920s to the 1960s influenced by the Greek culture. Patras is the first complete colour collection of fine jewellery that the company launched, with white gold and blue gemstone pieces reminiscent of the crystal blue waters of the Gulf of Patras. Toulouse, the third collection, combines the colour pink with the Art Deco tradition that began in France, in a ten-piece collection of pink opal and exquisite diamonds in 18k gold. To finish the series off, Aberdeen is a softer look comprised of eighteen pieces in 18k yellow and white gold, as well as diamonds. The series is inspired by the site of the Trump International Golf Links in Aberdeen, Scotland, and comprised of designs reflecting the rolling waves from the Aberdeenshire coastline. Alongside Hudson’s Bay, Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry has partnerships with luxury retailers throughout the U.S., Asia and the Middle East, with the collection represented in over 80 exclusive partnerships in the USA, Caribbean, Canada, Asia, and Middle East.
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Ritani makes Forbes’ Most Promising Companies list
For the Record
Stuller and World Trade Jewelers extend existing partnership In an effort to strengthen an existing venture with World Trade Jewelers, Stuller has been named the exclusive distributor of HERSHEY’S KISSES and Scrabble Brand jewellery. World Trade Jewelers will continue to handle product development and packaging, as well marketing and PR. “World Trade Jewelers is a valuable partner for Stuller in the world of licensed and iconic branded jewellery,” says James Louviere, Stuller’s director of symbolic and licensed jewellery. “The way they secured these valuable properties and interpreted them into jewellery is impressive, and the product performance in the marketplace is proof that consumers love the brands and love the jewellery.” Stuller’s partnership with World Trade Jewelers began in 2011, when they launched 27 styles of HERSHEY’S KISSES jewellery. The collection has since grown to offer over 250 styles. “For years, we’ve handled our own fulfillment, but now, it is massive,” says Murray Shabot, World Trade Jewelers president and CEO. “The independent channel needed a proven leader to take it over, and Stuller is that perfect partner. We’ll continue to distribute to our national partners, but our strategic alliance with Stuller allows us to focus on product creation and marketing, which is our specialty.”
Ritani listed $13 million in revenue and 45 employees as of January 2014 and was ranked 40 th by Forbes on its list of America’s Most Promising Companies. Wedding Wire, an online bridal marketplace, came in at number 27, yet Ritani was the only jewellery-related company on the list. The list ranks “high-growth, privately held companies with under $250 million in annual revenue,” says Forbes. “We’re confident that many of these are the IPOs and billion-dollar acquisitions of tomorrow.” The ranks are based on growth both in sales and hiring, quality of management team and investors, margins, market size, and key partnerships.
Raymond Weil passes away at age 87 Raymond Weil, founder and Honorary President of RAYMOND WEIL Geneve, maker of Swiss luxury timepieces, passed away peacefully at age 87, on Jan. 26. Raymond Weil was a pioneer and entrepreneur in the watchmaking industry, founding his company in 1976 and introducing the idea of watches as luxurious accessories. His vision was to create high quality watches with superior design at affordable prices. Weil was a precursor in the international development of the Swiss watchmaking industry during a key period when the industry needed to be renewed. He built an international network based on strong and personal human connections and relationships. His son-in-law Olivier Bernheim is at the helm, and two grandsons Elie and Pierre Bernheim are the chief officers of the company today. “Raymond Weil was a self-made man. He was my mentor and I learned so much from him,” says Olivier Bernheim, President & CEO of RAYMOND WEIL. “His legacy and enthusiasm will live on through our family, his brand, its team over the world and all of those who wear the watch that bears his name.”
Time to Shine. Your fine jewellery sparkles with brilliance, now add the same radiance to your business. With TD Retail Card Services as your partner, we shape the right in-store credit card program to the needs and size of your business, giving your bottom line the glowing attention it deserves. Whether an independent retailer perfect for our LJC Card or a national chain wanting a customized private-label program, TDRCS has your in-store financing. We approve more applications and grant higher limits, building your customer base and giving them more purchasing power – and that’s bigger transactions, better revenues and increased profits for you. • Unparalleled customer service • Dedicated support team
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Jewelers Mutual earns A.M. Best A+ Superior rating Jewelers Mutual Insurance is honoured with their 27th consecutive A+ rating from A.M. Best, the world’s oldest and most authoritative insurance rating and information source, according to the company. "Twenty-seven consecutive years of A+ ratings is an accomplishment we are very proud of at Jewelers Mutual," says the company's president and CEO, Darwin Copeman. "A.M. Best is one of the most respected rating companies in the world. This A+ rating reflects Jewelers Mutual's financial strength and stability over more than a quarter of a century… A.M. Best's rating certainly supports our position as a leading insurer for jewellery businesses and jewellery owners." The ratings are given based on a comprehensive evaluation of the company’s balance sheet strength, operating performance and business profile, or the specific nature and details of a debt security. Jewelers Mutual has had profitable results based on their underwriting profits, positive cash flow, and a stable stream of net investment income, as well as being debt-free. An established reinsurance model and well-diversified investments prevent the company from being exposed to unpredictable financial markets or catastrophic events.
David Yurman opens first Canadian store in Toronto David Yurman opened its doors to Canadian shoppers with its first boutique in Toronto. The New York-based designer of luxury jewellery and timepieces unveiled its new location at Yorkdale Shopping Centre, next door to other upscale retailers such as Salvatore Ferragamo, Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Burberry. New York-based architectural and interior design firm Gabellini Sheppard Associates designed the 1,837 square foot space. The company currently has 29 other retail locations in the United States, France and Hong Kong. “The decision to expand into this market was driven by a loyal and avid following of Canadian clients that have been shopping with us for years in the United States,” says Carol Pennelli, David Yurman’s president and chief commercial officer. “We’re thrilled to be a part of this diverse and vibrant community, and look forward to introducing our brand to an entirely new customer base. We’re proud to make a home for ourselves in Toronto.”
Quebec jewellery artist makes Hollywood debut in Hunger Games: Catching Fire
New pop-up jewellery shop in Hazelton Lanes Tru-Bijoux, a pop-up shop specializing in modern vintage jewellery pieces designed by owner Trudelle Laker, has opened its doors to the public in the heart of Yorkville. The store was initially set to operate until January 3, but many admirers will be happy to know that time has now been slightly extended. Visitors to the store have a chance to shop for exclusive pieces from Nina Ricci France, Kenzo as well as designs created by Laker herself, making up about 90 per cent of the store’s inventory. Tru-Bijoux also stocks some pieces from Laker’s colleagues that dabble in jewellery making. Laker, a legend in the jewellery-making business, has worked with everyone from Holt Renfrew to Club Monaco for about three decades. She owns and operates out of her own studio, stocked with thousands of vintage moulds but not set up to be viewed by the public. “To take over a store gave me an opportunity to show my work,” says Laker about the idea behind Tru-Bijoux. “It’s a chance to show my work to people after they’ve been asking about it for so long.” The pop-up shop is located on the ground floor of Hazelton Lanes at 55 Avenue Rd.
Hailing from Montreal, Quebec, Claudio Pino’s sculptural rings debuted on the big screen in the second and latest installment of the Hunger Games movies. Fellow designer Lilian Raji introduced Pino’s work to Trish Summerville who is the costume designer for the Hunger Games movie. Pino talks about the connection, “I worked with Lilian Raji last year for an exhibition at the prestigious Aaron Faber Gallery. She knew my work very well and asked if she could present me to the costume designer. She believed they would like my rings and she was right.” Two of Pino’s rings are featured in the film in close-ups on the hands of Stanley Tucci. Tucci plays a colourful host who strongly represents the fictional Capitol fashion aesthetic, which Pino’s rings compliment. The rings can be seen on Tucci in the movie every time Flickerman makes an appearance, as well as in the promotional movie posters. Following his success at the Aaron Faber Gallery’s “Jewellery Artists of Quebec,” in 2012, Pino got a spot at this year’s “Out of this World!: Jewellery in the Space Age” exhibition at Forbes Galleries. Pino’s book, “Pino: The Power of Rings” had its second release on December 15, 2013 because it sold out immediately during its first release. Pino has redefined the traditional concepts of how rings are made.
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Mining News
Digging deeper into artisanal and small-scale mining
by Maria Laura Barreto
Many people tend to associate large-scale operations, heavy use of technology and multinational companies with mining, but it’s much more than that. That’s why it serves to examine the other, equally important and very human face of mining. Finding Purpose
BACK IN 1981, I WAS A YOUNG LAWYER IN MOZAMBIQUE who had just started working in the mining sector. The sector was perceived to be very intensive in capital and technology and over the previous century, it had become saturated by only a handful of international players. It was in 1989 when I first encountered the very different reality of Artisanal and Small Scale Mining (ASM). I was part of a pioneering multidisciplinary research project that was addressing the impacts of mercury use by this sector.
Into The Heart Of Darkness I remember reading anything I could get my hands on in order to understand the ASM phenomenon, but the very limited material available at the time was of little help. I did manage to find two conflicting visions about the miners in this sector. One thought, rare and historic in its nature, regarded the miners as adventurers, pioneers, heroes and symbols of courage. The other vision, more common and current, considered them to be less than criminal, embodying attributes that were deemed negative by society. I decided to travel to Poconé, a project area located at the gates of Pantanal in Mato Grosso State, in order to see what an ASM operation actually looked like. I wanted to witness the environmental impacts and social disturbances that were portrayed by the media with my own eyes. More importantly, I wanted talk with the people that, at the time, were right in the centre of the country’s social conflicts. What I discovered was definitely something that was both less poetic and much scarier than the two visions suggested. I saw people who were less fortunate and trying to survive through economic conditions that demanded hard work and offered difficult living conditions. These people could only dream of being able to live comfortably and earn proper money one day. I also saw land disturbances, rivers thick with sedimentation, and witnessed the use of mercury without proper health or environmental standards. These working conditions posed daily threats, especially to those directly involved in the mining activities.
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Seeing all of this, I kept asking myself why these people would choose to work in this industry. Is it worthwhile to live in such harsh conditions? The answers came through conversations with the miners, who said that while the work was very difficult, it was available to them and, despite all of the exploitation, it was much more lucrative than similar activities like agriculture. In a world where jobs were becoming more difficult to find, particularly in rural areas, this activity was not only possible and viable, but it helped the miners feed their families at the end of the day. The reason all of this was so important to me as a jeweller was because it started to unfold the reality behind the extraction of gold and diamonds, which is not only about machines, technology and capital. It’s a sector built on a complex and diverse human reality. It’s even more crucial when we recognize that ASM is responsible for extracting 70 per cent of gems and around 20 per cent of diamonds and gold in the world. ASM now employs (directly and indirectly) around 150 million underprivileged people worldwide, yet it receives almost no support or even recognition for what this workforce provides. In my first column, I talked about the importance of dreams in the jewellery business. Today I would like to share a miner’s dream with you. Manuel Reinoso, a Peruvian ASM leader, made the following remarks to a UN meeting in Nairobi on the reduction of the impacts of mercury: “Yesterday I had a dream: I was with my family, living in a real house, with all my children educated. I had a mining title and environmental license to run my mine. I was paying taxes and royalties to my country. Thanks to the support of the government, I had adopted clean technologies in my mine. My gold was eco-certified and sold directly in the developed world for a fair price. I am convinced that this dream is not only mine; this is a dream of every artisanal miner in the world, who wants to be recognized as a miner who builds a responsible future in his country.” It seems to me that we are approaching a place in the jewellery and ASM sectors where dreams like this one can be realized. With growing consumer demand, better market models and certification systems, there is a unique opportunity to build strong connections and tools that can benefit the industry. In subsequent columns, I will explore these opportunities and the obstacles that may stand in the way, as well as the roles that jewellers play in these schemes. CJ
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55 Queen Street East, Suite 1210, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6 Tel: 416.368.8240 / 888.470.MARY Fax: 416.368.8057 / 888.248.MARY www.maryjewellery.com | info@maryjewellery.com
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Top, left to right: Marco Miserendino, Sevan Garabedian, Erik Kocsis Bottom, left to right: Paola Miserendino, David Trudeau-Hamidi, Emilie Costenoble, and Patrizio Ficca
Gucci forever
MONTRÉAL JEWELLER BIJOUTERIE ITALIENNE WELCOMED GUCCI to its roster of brands in an exclusive event that unveiled unique sets from the Italian luxury company’s four main collections. The Holiday Trunk Show 2013 showcased what turned out to be the largest Gucci collection Canada has ever seen. Guests of the event were treated to a red carpet reception and one lucky winner walked away with a Gucci silver bracelet. The luxurious pieces flaunted an array of precious materials, meticulous attention to detail and original design by Gucci’s Creative Director, Frida Giannini. One of the standout items included a cocktail set designed for an evening occasion, consisting of a horsebit necklace with lemon quartz and a ring with lemon citrine, all in white gold and framed by precious diamonds. The black diamond collection displayed pink gold cocktail rings, luxurious earrings, as well as bracelets and necklaces that offer an unexpected take on classic styles and are perfect for black tie events. Gucci also presented its iconic 18k white gold horsebit bracelet with pavé diamonds, which came in a set along with a matching necklace and earrings.
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1. Véronique Dubé, Canadian Jeweller Magazine writer and Lydia Mamane, Joolz Bar à Bijoux owner 2. Phillip Gavriel, 18k yellow gold & sterling silver Square Light Blue Glass Venetian Cameo Pendant on a Rhodium Plated Wheat Chain from the "Cameos Of Venice" Collection 3. Jason Goldsmith, founder of The Big Blue Hug; Christina Smith, Westmount councillor; Lydia Mamane, owner of Joolz Bar à Bijoux
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Photography: Avi Tanny
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Jewellery bar buzz NEWLY OPENED JOOLZ BAR À BIJOUX IN MONTRÉAL is giving a whole new meaning to what defines a jewellery store. Located on Sherbrooke St. West in Westmount, the shop features a unique bar concept that creates an atmosphere in which customers can relax and take their time while viewing the entire product collection. The store, owned by Lydia Mamane, features chic and elegant decor and caters to a refined Quebec clientele with brands like Hugo Boss, Swarovski, Italgem Steel, Honora, OPS! Love and Bcouture. “I want people to come by the store and feel as if they were in another world,” says Mamane. “I carry jewellery pieces that bring out the beauty of a specific stone, pearl, or must-have style. I want to create a “wow” factor and have people coming back because they know they will find the perfect gift.” On the opening day of the boutique, guests were treated to cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, while a portion of the proceeds from all of the sales was donated to Giant Steps/À pas de géant Montréal for autistic children.
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Cover Story
Success A Recipe For
Since opening their second location in the heart of downtown Toronto over a year ago, Mani Jewellers has perfected the art of servicing the financial district. by Irina Lytchak photography by Stephanie Martyniuk
TORONTO-BORN AND BRED BROTHERS MARK AND SEAN MANI recently celebrated the one-year anniversary of their second jewellery store, but they have been in the jewellery business since 1995. "Our thing is downtown," says Mark Mani. "As much as we are in the jewellery business, we’re in the business of servicing the financial district. Ever since we got into the business that’s what we’ve done, and that’s what we know best." Mani Jewellers opened its second set of doors on November 15, 2012 in the prestigious Richmond-Adelaide Centre at 120 Adelaide Street West. They have since found success by adapting to their unique environment and perfecting the service they offer to a very specific client base. "This area is completely unlike any other shopping model," explains Mark. "Our client base is more fixed and relationship-based than any other place. Over here, we see our regulars, a lot of them daily and some weekly. Not because they are necessarily shopping but because they have to be here. So we have a lot of our customers who buy once a week, or buy once a month but come in ten times a month. They are more than just customers at that point, so it’s really a very unique place down here."
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A rich history Today, Mark runs the new store while his brother is largely responsible for the other shop located on Bay Street. But it was their father, Ron Mani, who is originally from India, who chose to enter the jewellery business in the mid-90s and who is still active in the company to this day. "My father bought an existing jewellery store in 1995, by the name of the Gem Shoppe," says Mark. "It was in the Toronto Dominion Centre. And then we bought a place called Shangri-La Jewellery in the Royal Bank Plaza in the year 2000. In 2001, we consolidated both stores into one. We found that it made sense for us because of the geographic proximity. We focused on client retention, bringing over whatever business we have in the TD Centre over to the Royal Bank Plaza." By 2001, the Mani family had closed the Gem Shoppe. Following several years later in 2005, they shut down Shangri-La Jewellery, renovated it and reopened as Mani Jewellers. "It was a reinvention into Mani Jewellers," explains Mark. "With new product lines, slightly more focus on branding, a new image, and a new concept."
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Mark and Mani at their Adelaide location in Toronto
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“As much as we are in the jewellery business, we’re in the business of servicing the financial district.” Today, Ron Mani is still found in the stores because the years have allowed him to establish a solid reputation with the clientele in the huge downtown core. "My father has been dealing with people down here since ’95," says Mark. "Some people are extremely loyal to him and he's the best sales guy. He’s very friendly, so he’s very loved down here. We tell him that he can never retire."
The right image The success of the brothers' first store motivated them to open up a second location. "It gave us a push to expansion," says Mark. "The idea came around in 2010 where it went into the plans basically and in 2012 we expanded into the Adelaide Street location." What came next was implementing the perfect branding strategy in order to spell success for the jewellers in the long run. This meant bringing over the well-performing brands from the old store locations into Mani Jewellers, as well as introducing new names. A perfect example of this is the Adelaide Street locations' partnership with Pandora. The shop-in-shop is owned and operated by Mani Jewellers and
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serves as the anchor brand at that particular store. Aside from Pandora, the shop is generally broken into thirds, meaning the other two thirds are watches and jewellery. The store also carries Canadian diamonds. "Our main focus is still in fine jewellery," adds Mark. "The backbone of our business is fine jewellery." Having the right merchandise recipe is integral when it comes to servicing the financial district. Mani Jewellers' clientele cover the middle class bracket, which includes men and women that are successfully employed and generally know what they want. "Keeping the store attractive is the most important thing to us," says Mark. "It's all about first impressions; showing our product in the windows, presentation, and approachability. And I encourage my staff to stand on the outside of the counter and not on the inside." Mark adds that he sees a lot of new customers shy away from the store's counters, which is why it's imperative for him to make the store as welcoming as possible. It's also the little things, like giving people directions, that make them stay or come back in on another occasion. "We have developed a lot of relationships by giving directions to people," says Mark. "When people come in and we go out of our way to give them proper directions, they remember us and they come back. That goes back to
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Mark Mani FEBRUARY 2014
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“Our entire business is built on not giving people a reason to walk into another jewellery store.” AT A GL A NCE
the whole idea of service. Anybody will tell you when you ask them what differentiates them from any other jeweller, it’s the service, of course. But that’s pretty generic. For us, being able to cater to someone who is spending $10 to somebody who is spending $80,000 is a big advantage. Getting someone in for $10 is easy and then you build towards a bigger goal."
NAME: Mani Jewellers
Cultivating loyalty
LOCATIONS: 120 Adelaide St. West and 200 Bay Street, Toronto, Ontario
For Mani Jewellers, retaining customers in the store is not a huge issue; it's competing with all of the countless options available today that becomes the real challenge. "The jewellery industry is very much like the medical field," explains Mark. "You have a doctor you see and you go to the same doctor your entire life or for a very long time, until you move and it becomes convenient to see another doctor. Our entire business is built on not giving people a reason to walk into another jewellery store." While Mani Jewellers relies on its brands for much of its overall success, being a full service jewellery store is also about completing custom orders and going above and beyond when it comes to customers' needs – that’s where the real secret lies in Mani Jewellers’ recipe for success. CJ
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OWNERS: Mark and Sean Mani
STORE SIZE: 1,150 and 800 square feet STAFF: 10 KNOWN FOR: Servicing the financial district BRANDS: Pandora, Swarovski, Tacori, etc. COOL FACTOR: A stunning, custom-made chandelier in the centre of the Adelaide Street location.
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Sean Mani FEBRUARY 2014
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CJ en français
Photo : Pantone Color Institute
Les Nouvelles
Radiant Orchid, couleur de l’année 2014
Radiant Orchid, couleur de l’année 2014 C’est la couleur Pantone 18-3224 Radiant Orchid, un mauve « captivant, magique et énigmatique », qui a été choisie comme couleur de l’année 2014 par le chef mondial de l‘indexation des couleurs. « Alors que le Pantone 17-5641 Emerald, couleur de l’année 2013, évoquait la croissance, le renouveau et la prospérité, la couleur Radiant Orchid, située à l’opposé de la roue chromatique, pique la curiosité et éveille l’imagination », explique Leatrice Eiseman, directrice générale du Pantone Color Institute. Radiant Orchid représente une harmonie envoûtante de fuchsia, de mauve et de rose. Elle inspire la confiance et grâce à son charme, elle apporte la joie, l’amour et la santé. Déjà très présente sur les tapis rouges, elle annonce un printemps radieux et est portée tant chez les femmes que chez les hommes.
JCK Las Vegas propose une formule personnalisée Depuis le début du mois de décembre, les inscriptions pour le JCK Las Vegas, qui aura lieu du 30 mai au 2 juin 2014 au Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino, sont ouvertes. Et cette année, JCK propose à ses participants préqualifiés une liste personnalisée des exposants, établie selon les produits et la gamme de prix qui correspondent aux critères spécifiques de leur entreprise.
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Jay Jackson, ancien président – directeur général chez Stuller
par Véronique Dubé
Danny Clark, nouveau président – directeur général chez Stuller
Jay Jackson, président-directeur général de Stuller, a pris sa retraite Après plus de 17 ans de service, Jay Jackson, PDG de la compagnie Stuller, a pris sa retraite le 27 décembre dernier. Danny Clark, l’ancien directeur de la mise en marché, du marketing et des ventes, lui a succédé. M. Clark a joint Stuller en 2009 en tant que directeur de l’approvisionnement et cumule plus de 27 ans d’expérience en gestion des opérations et du marchandisage. Avant de joindre Stuller en 1996 comme vice-président des ventes, M. Jackson avait travaillé chez Sears pendant plus de 30 ans. Matthew Stuller, fondateur et président de Stuller, a décrit M. Jackson comme étant un meneur qui a grandement contribué à la croissance et à l’efficacité des opérations chez Stuller.
Maison Birks veut se hisser dans la cour des grands Lors de la tribune du Cercle canadien de Montréal qui avait lieu le 4 novembre dernier, Jean-Christophe Bédos, président et chef de la direction du Groupe Birks inc., a prononcé son allocution. En poste depuis avril 2012, M. Bédos a accepté le défi de convertir Maison Birks en chef de file dans l’univers de la joaillerie de prestige à l’échelle internationale. « Birks est une marque mondialement connue… au Canada seulement ! », a déploré M. Bédos. Pour y parvenir, la direction a choisi de miser sur ses origines canadiennes, les valeurs propres au Canada et les images que le pays évoque. La nouvelle image de la marque est même inspirée par la dualité linguistique canadienne, avec l’ajout du mot « maison » devant Birks (rehaussant l’aspect haute couture) et l’expression anglaise « Established in 1879 ». Maison Birks a aussi repensé l’expérience de magasinage. M. Bédos a expliqué : « Les vendeurs ne sont plus derrière le comptoir. C'est une méthode de vente révolue. […] C'est une petite révolution dans le monde de la bijouterie! » Ainsi, Maison Birks souhaite être perçue comme une marque prestigieuse, accessible et dynamique.
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Le magazine Canadian Jeweller annonce les gagnants lors du Jewellers’ Ball Lors du Jewellers’ Ball de la Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), qui avait lieu le 16 novembre dernier, on a souligné le travail d’importants joueurs de l’industrie quant à la mise en marché, l’innovation, la créativité, ainsi que le développement et le design des produits. L’invitée d’honneur Eva LaRue, connue pour ses rôles dans « All My Children » et « CSI : Miami » – en plus d’être la créatrice de la collection de bijoux Eva LaRue Fine Jewellery –, a présenté les gagnants de la soirée. Les représentants du magazine Canadian Jeweller, l’éditeur Olivier Felicio et la rédactrice en chef Irina Lytchak, ainsi que le commanditaire Steve Turac de Ritani and India Hicks étaient aussi présents.
Prix d’excellence : Détaillant indépendant de l’année : Diamond Gallery, Winnipeg, Allan, Anita and Lisa Malbrank Détaillant à plusieurs succursales : Bogart's Jewellers, Newfoundland, Richard Rooney Collection de l’année : Max Strauss - Designer Series B&S (Canada) Inc. Marque de montres de l’année : Citizen Watch Company of Canada
Excellence du design : Gagnant, catégorie Diamant : Michael DaCosta, Fortune's Fine Jewellery, Toronto Gagnant, catégorie Diamant canadien : Karin Bunzeit, Stittgen Fine Jewellery, Vancouver Gagnant, catégorie Perle : Donald Stuart, Midhurst, Ontario Gagnant, catégorie Platine : Jeff Nechka, Premier Gems Ltd., Calgary Gagnant, catégorie Pierres colorées : David Abugov, Jewels to Die For, Halifax Eva LaRue
Abolition de la méthode simplifiée pour les grandes entreprises dans le régime de la TVQ
Rapaport ouvrira un laboratoire de classification des diamants
Une grande entreprise ne pourra plus utiliser la méthode simplifiée pour les grandes entreprises (méthode simplifiée GE) pour le calcul d'un remboursement de taxe sur les intrants (RTI) relatif aux dépenses engagées par ses salariés et aux allocations qui leur sont versées à compter du 1er janvier 2014. À compter de cette date, la méthode factorielle utilisée pour demander un crédit de taxe sur les intrants dans le régime de la TPS pourra être utilisée dans le régime de la TVQ par les petites, les moyennes et les grandes entreprises. Ces dernières devront tenir compte des restrictions à l'obtention d'un RTI pour une grande entreprise. Cette méthode sera nommée méthode factorielle TVQ. Pour obtenir plus de renseignements sur la méthode factorielle utilisée dans le régime de la TPS, consultez le Mémorandum sur la TPS/TVH Remboursements (9-4) de l'Agence du revenu du Canada.
Connue pour sa feuille de prix et son réseau de marchandisage en ligne, la corporation Rapaport fournira dorénavant « des services additionnels, tels que l’imagerie et la classification des diamants » déclarait Joshua Kersh, directeur général de Rapaport. Le nouveau RapLab offre déjà un service de détection des diamants synthétiques et naturels. Selon les informations contenues sur leur site web, le nouveau laboratoire proposera des services de consultations manufacturières. Déjà opérationnels à Ramat Gan et à Mumbai, d’autres centres de service verront le jour à New York et à Surat. Les détections de diamants synthétiques seront effectuées à l’aide de deux machines de De Beers : DiamondSure et DiamondView.
Source : http://www.revenuquebec.ca/fr/salle-de-presse/nouvelles-fiscales/ 2013/2013-10-10.aspx
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CJ en français L’emblématique bracelet horsebit de Gucci, réinterprété en or blanc 18k avec pavés de diamants, revêt une toute nouvelle dimension luxueuse dans cet ensemble, agencé avec élégance au collier et aux boucles d’oreille classiques.
Vente privée exclusive de Gucci chez Bijouterie Italienne Au mois de novembre dernier, Bijouterie Italienne a présenté la nouvelle collection de bijoux et de montre Gucci lors d’un événement de vente privée. Une grande première au Canada; la joaillerie fine de parures uniques et exclusives du "Trunk Show" était composée de séries spéciales de quatre principales collections. Les éléments luxueux qui émanaient des diverses pièces étaient visibles par le choix des matériaux précieux. Fidèle à sa réputation, une attention méticuleuse était aussi portée aux détails et aux designs originaux de la directrice artistique de Gucci, Frida Giannini. À l’occasion de cette vente privée, un prix de présence d’une valeur de 250$, un bracelet en argent Gucci, a été remis. En plus du tapis rouge, Prosecco et hors-d’œuvre étaient servis afin d’offrir aux clients de Bijouterie Italienne une atmosphère unique.
Roland Dubuc dans le livre Masters of Jewellery Design in Canada
Photo: Claudio Pino
Photo : Roland Dubuc
Le livre Masters of Jewellery Design in Canada (volume 1 et 2), écrit par Cora Golden, inclus plus de 450 photos de bijoux uniques, dont certains ont été conçus pour des personnalités comme le pape Jean-Paul II et Uma Thurman. Les deux volumes permettent de jeter un regard sur le monde fascinant de la joaillerie, en plus de faire une intrusion dans la démarche créative des artisans qui ont façonné quelques-uns des plus beaux objets du monde. Post-War Pioneers (volume 1) Pendentif en argent sterling, 5" x 1 1/4", sur un rouleau en expose le profil de designers, comme Toni argent sterling, 2013. Cavelti, et d’ateliers. Contemporary Artists (volume 2) brosse le tableau de 25 designers primés, dont John de Jong et Roland Dubuc. Depuis plus de 20 ans, Roland Dubuc est reconnu pour sa démarche innovatrice. Ses bijoux complexes et élégants, taillés d’une seule pièce, ont enchanté les amateurs d’inédit et séduisent par leur caractère unique. Produits en collaboration avec Maison Birks, les deux volumes sont les premiers livres entièrement dédiés à la haute joaillerie au Canada. Ils sont illustrés de manière exceptionnelle et présentent les plus belles créations de joaillerie canadiennes des 50 dernières années.
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Claudio Pino conçoit deux nouvelles pièces cinétiques Le designer de bijoux montréalais Claudio Pino est reconnu mondialement pour ses bagues sculpturales et cinétiques. Récemment, l’artiste a conçu un pendentif et des boucles d’oreille cinétiques en platine, or jaune 18k, pierres de lune, saphirs jaunes et améthystes. Il a élaboré et fabriqué ces pièces de A à Z; deux créations personnalisées pour une cliente. « Un projet très inspirant et rempli de défis », explique Claudio Pino. « L’art est un moyen d’exprimer des émotions, des idées, des récits, et de les partager avec les autres. Il est également un moyen de stimuler nos sens. C’est une grande chance de pouvoir échanger et discuter directement avec les clients afin de créer des pièces personnalisées. » En 2011, Claudio Pino a poursuivi une maîtrise en étude du platine à l’Académie Holt Jewellery à Londres, Angleterre. Il a aussi reçu une formation intensive du maître expert M. Jurgen J. Maerz, directeur de Jewelry Industry Consulting LLC et ancien directeur de Technical Education for Platinum Guild International USA. Bientôt, il présentera une collection exclusive de bagues sculpturales en platine où les propriétés de ce métal précieux et rare seront mises en valeur et incarneront sa source d’inspiration. Ce projet est possible grâce au soutien du Conseil des arts du Canada.
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Transparence :
un collectif de 14 joailliers expose à la Galerie Noel Guyomarc’h de Montréal
CJ en français
Lors de cette nouvelle exposition, dévoilée le 25 octobre dernier, une centaine de créations inédites de 14 joailliers québécois étaient mises à l’honneur. Après un passage aux États-Unis et à Ottawa, c’est maintenant sous le thème Transparence que les bijoutiers exposaient leurs œuvres. par Véronique Dubé
De gauche â droite : Claudio Pino, Roland Dubuc, Christine Larochelle, Annegret Morf, Gustavo Estrada, Antonio Serafino, Pierre-Yves Paquette, Janis Kerman, Matthieu Cheminée, Barbara Stutman, Élise Bergeron, Laurie Dansereau, Jean-Pierre Gauvreau and Lynn Légaré.
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CJ en français
Élise Bergeron– Bracelet « Transparence » en argent fin, or 22 carats et tourmaline oeil de chat verte.
LE THÈME DE L’EXPOSITION A D’AILLEURS été retenu par les joailliers afin de rendre hommage à la joaillerie d’art québécoise. Après avoir connu un immense succès à l’Aaron Faber Gallery de New York en mai 2012, et plus récemment en juin dernier à la L.A. Pai Gallery à Ottawa, le collectif de joailliers a choisi de présenter ses œuvres à la Galerie Noel Guyomarc’h, à Montréal. « Dans le contexte actuel, où nous sommes justement en quête de vérité et d’honnêteté, le thème Transparence s’est imposé d’emblée », explique M. Noel Guyomarc’h, propriétaire de la galerie. « La transparence, c’est aussi un éclatement des concepts qui pousse l’artiste à innover, à aborder son œuvre en élargissant le regard pour voir au-delà du simple objet. Il s’agit avant tout d’une nouvelle façon de se représenter le monde. »
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Depuis leur participation à l’exposition Innovation Craftmanship in Metal : Jewelry Artist of Québec de l’an dernier à New York, les joailliers se réunissent et souhaitent sensibiliser le public au travail qui se cache derrière la joaillerie. Pour Noel Guyomarc’h, il s’agit d’un réel plaisir de travailler en même temps avec les 14 artistes, lui qui en connait plusieurs depuis un bon moment déjà. Il existe peu de lieux à Montréal où les joailliers peuvent présenter, sous un même toit, leurs œuvres au public. Chaque joaillier en a profité pour interpréter le thème transparence à sa façon. Parmi les créations exposées, on a noté une forte présence de l’argent, des pierres colorées et translucides, et des perles. On proposait un équilibre entre la dureté des matériaux et la douceur des formes; on a serti les pierres pour
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Gauche : Laurie Dansereau – Pendetif « Baurera albus » en argent sterling et perle baroque. En bas, gauche: Lynn Légaré – Collier « Flower Power » en argent sterling, or 18 carats et perle de Polynésie française.
Matthieu Cheminée – Bracelet « Stampclastic » en argent sterling or 18 carats et tsavorite.
y laisser pénétrer la lumière; on a chauffé, plié, martelé, façonné, modelé, articulé et sculpté la matière pour lui procurer légèreté et mouvement. Chaque bijou était empreint d’un travail novateur, lui procurant son côté inédit. Alors que pour certains, la transparence leur a inspiré la clarté, la limpidité, d’autres ont préféré jouer avec l’espace, la lumière, les perforations. On y a aussi vu une façon d’aborder des thèmes aussi variés que l’aspect socio-politique qui entoure l’exploitation des métaux et des pierres (Mathieu Cheminée) ou la vie sous-marine (Laurie Dansereau), par exemple. La légèreté était aussi à l’honneur dans les œuvres des joaillières Lynn Légaré et Barbara Stutman, qui exploitent les métaux comme s’ils étaient volatiles. De la fonte des métaux aux techniques de tissage, chaque pièce est minutieusement étudiée. Lors
du vernissage, les visiteurs ont pu profiter de l’occasion pour rencontrer les joailliers et discuter avec eux. Les pièces présentées ont été retenues pour leur unicité, la qualité des métaux et des pierres précieuses ainsi que pour la démarche artistique qui entourent le travail du joaillier. Pendant la soirée, on a parlé du côté contemporain de la bijouterie et de la place qu’il occupe dans le marché actuel. Certains joailliers ont aussi fait part de leur vision sur l’évolution du marché de la bijouterie au Québec et de l’intérêt pour les pièces inédites. « On cherche à démocratiser le bijou. Et pour y parvenir, il est nécessaire de comprendre le travail du joaillier, et d’avoir l’audace non pas seulement d’acheter un bijou de luxe, mais de pouvoir l’expliquer », soutient Noel Guyomarc’h. CJ
D’autres expositions, notamment à Ottawa et à New York, sont à prévoir l’année prochaine et en 2015.
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Company Profile
Changing with the times
Stuller Inc.’s reputation in the jewellery industry precedes itself, but this company is showing no signs of slowing down when it comes to servicing its jewellers.
by Irina Lytchak
Sculptural Collection Ring
WHEN DANNY CLARK BECAME PRESIDENT AND COO OF STULLER, Inc. earlier this year, he knew that he had to continue to refine Stuller’s long history of exceptional service to the independent retail jeweller. “We needed to continue to improve our offering for our customers,” says Clark. “One of our goals was to make the retail experience, the experience customers have with Stuller, even better.” As a result, companies in North America and around the world have watched Stuller excel at what it does best – servicing jewellery retailers to the best of its ability. Today, Stuller is a household name when it comes to providing all of the necessary services any jewellery retailer may need to run a successful business. “We spent a lot of time on the technology needed to run the business, like CounterSketch® Studio,” says Clark. CounterSketch® Studio with prototypes
Innovative products
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One of the advancements that Stuller has really excelled in over the past few years is perfecting its digital manufacturing process in order to achieve the right designs. “A customer may see a product they like but they might want a different finger size or a different metal type or they might want to change the side stones…” explains Clark. “That’s what we call a flexible model. Our digital manufacturing process allows us to do the work faster giving the jeweller the ability to sell his customer what they need versus what he has in the showcase.” Stuller is also known for making advancements when it comes to creating specialized systems that make the selling of jewellery process so much easier ... One such example has been the 3CTM Choose, Change, Create initiative, which allows jewellers to either choose a design from Stuller’s vast inventory, change the elements of a design to customize the piece or create a completely new, one-of-a-kind piece with the help of CounterSketch® Studio or CAD.
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Strategic marketing
The Create Bar
According to Clark, the response to the products created with the 3C campaign has been “exceptional.” Back in the summer of 2013, Stuller also unveiled an interactive design concept for independent retailers called ‘Create Bar.’ Jewellers were now given the opportunity to employ a modern kiosk, hardware, and digital tools like CounterSketch® Studio, in order to give its customers a really enhanced, interactive experience. The new conception also became an excellent tool for couples that planned on tying the knot by allowing them to design their rings along with their jeweller. Maren Rosen, vice president of bridal and jewellery at Stuller, who started with the company back in 2011 as part of the premier services team, says that there was a need to update the brand’s products in order to satisfy the changing needs of the jewellers. “Traditionally, we had provided products to the marketplace that were very essential,” says Rosen. “Products like solitaires, three-stone, five- and sevenstone anniversary bands. We were in need of an update to modernize our styling and embrace our products through our unique selling propositions. We did this through our web and through our software programs.” Rosen adds that the company underwent a renewal by consolidating its existing product styles and creating a variety of new concepts under the direction of Stuller’s internal design team.
It’s one thing to produce great product but it’s a completely different ball game as to how you choose to promote it to the rest of the world. But Stuller didn’t fall short when it came to its marketing strategies. In fact, the brand has enjoyed quite a bit of success as a direct result of having a powerhouse marketing team behind all of its campaigns. According to Rosen, Stuller’s new marketing techniques “rejuvenated our bridal business and brought it to a different level than where we’ve been.” Clark also adds that the company has “come a million miles in terms of how we’re putting together our product assortments and how we’re targeting our pieces to our audiences. The history of our company is in catalogues and we’ve had very good reviews on our catalogues but we also have a multi-touch marketing campaign now. We don’t just have catalogues; we go to brochures and we have a very robust Ecommerce business.” Clark notes that online business has been increasing with each year and is something the company has really focused in on as a response to customers’ needs. “Some customers prefer to shop via phone and some customers prefer to come on Stuller.com and we’re happy either way, whichever works best for them,” he says.
Jewellery from Stuller, Inc.
In a flash But when it comes to truly cementing Stuller as a top choice for jewellers, it’s the company’s unbeatable same-day delivery policy that takes the cake. “We’ve been the prime, just-in-time delivery supplier for the last thirty plus years,” says Rosen. Clark adds that while the product is constantly being refined, Stuller strives to deliver to the customer the very next day. “Some customers are asking for a certain amount of customization or personalization on the product and that will change what the delivery time is, but primarily what we are is a just-in-time supplier,” he says. “We’re looking to supply the customer with their product overnight in most cases.” More recently, Stuller’s delivery service underwent a notable change by extending the order cut-off time for Canadian consumers across the country. The new implementation meant that no matter where a customer was located in Canada, their cut-off time for placing an order was 3 p.m. with guaranteed next day delivery. “We’ve got a promise we make to our customers and we want to make sure we continue to be efficient in getting them the products they need, when they need them,” says Clark. Rosen also reiterates the idea that Stuller’s formula for success has all been about satisfying the needs of the company’s independent jewellers. “It’s just very exciting to be a part of such a successful company that’s so renowned in the jewellery industry,” she says. “And to keep the promise to our retailers – that’s really the foundation of who we are.” CJ
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Designer Profile
Prairie Flower
Regina’s Hillberg & Berk build a buzz through non-traditional marketing techniques. by Sarah B. Hood
Royal Brooch
Most jewellery companies step cautiously in the arena of social media and guerilla marketing, but Regina-based design and retail business Hillberg & Berk breaks the mold. From a celebrity gifting program to a deal on CBC Television’s Dragon’s Den and even a commission for the Queen, the young company is establishing a high profile with minimal advertising. Since 2007, CEO and head designer Rachel Mielke has built a company that sells close to 40,000 items per year, with annual revenues between $2 million and $5 million. Hillberg & Berk (named for her great-grandmother and her dog, Berkeley) produces original collections that retail in about 40 locations across Canada; in October 2011 the company also opened a retail boutique in Regina that carries other lines, like US-based Tacori. Hillberg & Berk pieces are moderately priced; they range from about $65 to $800, with most falling around the $200 to $300 point. “I like to describe our jewellery as a reflection of the women we sell it to,” she says. “We mix high-quality gemstones with more asymmetric organic materials. I scour the globe [and] go to really remote places to find elements to create a design that is interesting, asymmetrical and timeless.” The company’s philosophical vision is apparently just as important to Mielke as its design qualities. “We’re focused on empowering women, so over the last six seasons we’ve really developed our vision of how we want to present our collection,” she says. Every year, Hillberg & Berk partners with a remarkable woman, and makes a significant contribution to a charity that furthers a cause they stand for.
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Among past partners: film star and myeloma activist Lisa Ray, journalist Amanda Lindhout, who was kidnapped in Somalia, and documentary filmmaker Jennifer Siebel Newsom. The face of the Spring/Summer 2013 collection, Belle journée, is choreographer Stacey Tookey of television's So You Think You Can Dance. In connection with this partnership, Hillberg & Berk will support Dizzy Feet Foundation, an organization that uses dance to change the lives of youth. This focus on empowering and empowered women is “an important message for our brand,” says Mielke. “I think that’s what actually sets us apart, and in this highly competitive market, you have to differentiate yourself.” Trained in marketing, Mielke says she “knew from the get-go that if I was going to develop an international brand, I was going to have to be very creative. I knew I wouldn’t be able to afford traditional advertising to promote Hillberg & Berk nationally.” When she began seeking opportunities to showcase the brand, she was invited through her membership in the Toronto Fashion Incubator to attend an Oscar gifting lounge. “It wasn’t the ‘official’ Oscar gifting lounge,” she points out. “But it still afforded the opportunity to get photos of the celebrities wearing the products.” These included actor Lily Collins (daughter of musician Phil Collins), director Spike Lee, television personality Mario Lopez and Deidre Hall of Days of Our Lives. The buzz was beneficial, so Mielke actively continues to pursue chances to present her pieces to celebrities, a program her PR agency now facilitates. “We often have to give this product to multiple channels to get it to the celebrity. I would say you have to give something away 100 times, maybe 1,000 times, but the opportunity to get that photo is worth it, because normally you have to pay a tremendous amount of money [to have a famous person model the jewellery]. And you may be lucky; you may have that celebrity love it and wear it.” Country singer Carrie Underwood, heiress Paris Hilton and Canadian singer-songwriter Sarah McLachlan are some of the famous faces that have been seen wearing Hillberg & Berk. Mielke’s most famous celebrity endorsement so far: Her Royal Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Hillberg & Berk created a floral brooch of Madagascar tourmaline, diamonds, 18k white gold and a single freshwater pearl for Her Majesty as a commission for Saskatchewan Lieutenant Governor Vaughn Solomon Schofield. With the rest of the tourmaline, Mielke released a special-issue Legacy Collection “that any woman could own”; it retails for $310 to $12,950.
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“It’s the opportunity of a lifetime,” Mielke says. “She doesn’t have a lot of tourmaline, so we felt it was something unique. We paired it with white freshwater pearl, which would complement a lot of what she wears. Rachel was thrilled to learn that on February 2, 2014, Her Majesty wore her Hillberg & Berk brooch to church while accompanied by Prince Philip in Norfolk, England. The Queen looked stunning in the delicate purple hues of the tourmaline and diamond brooch. "I know how much work goes into her wardrobe, so to see the Queen wearing the brooch only three months after receiving it was unexpected. Hearing the news and seeing the photos was a very special moment for me and my entire team.” Apart from the celebrity connections, Mielke has made creative use of traditional media and new social media to further promote her brand. She appeared on Dragon’s Den to offer 30 per cent of her company in return for a $200,000 investment. “Dragon” Brett Wilson accepted the offer, and is still a business partner, and Mielke receives a renewed boost from the exposure on national television every time the episode is rebroadcast.
In addition, she maintains a strong presence on social media. She sends out emails about twice a month and promotes both the brand and the retail store on Facebook. “Any time we are able to generate media – just last week I was on Canada AM – we would share the video on Facebook. People like that a lot. Pinterest is a story about our brand; Instagram is the visual of what our products look like. Twitter is up-to-the-minute news.” However, she cautions companies new to social media to “work with somebody who knows what they’re doing.” Mielke sees social media as the strongest medium for the future: a direct connection to and from customers. But if a better, more effective and engaging channel turns up in the meantime, you can bet that she and her company will be there. CJ
Legacy Collection Cuff 13LCBD23, $2,895
La Sirena Cocktail Ring, 14SSRGB06, $245
La Sirena Turquoise Bracelet, 14SSBA09, $220
La Sirena Coral and Turquoise Bauble Statement Necklace, 14SSNA10, $645
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The “location, location, location” question Mall or stand-alone store, which is best for jewellery retailing? by Liza Marley
Feature IN A WORLD WHERE YOU CONSTANTLY HEAR the all-too-popular phrase “location, location, location,” it’s ironic that there is no ‘best’ when it comes to location. What works for one retailer simply doesn’t work for another. Some jewellery retailers swear by stand-alone stores, others stay strictly within the malls. While you’d think there would be a clear preference for locating a jewellery store, the fact is, the distinction really is based on the type of store and its business model. There are a lot of variables to choosing a location, and each has its benefits, or we wouldn’t see thriving businesses in both environments. When deciding between a mall and a stand-alone store, jewellery retailers need to determine which factors will ultimately fit their business model better. It takes a thorough understanding of the formula they’re following, including merchandise, marketing strategy, clientele base, staff and a solid understanding of the time and financial commitment. “Stand-alone or ‘street-level’ stores have proven very strong to the retail model,” says Haigo Derian, vice president of L’Oro Jewellery. Having been both a stand-alone and mall retailer, he’s gained insight on both sides of the coin. He lists the type of clientele each type of location gets as one of the most significant differences between the two models. At a stand-alone store, the customer has arrived at the store for only one reason: to shop for jewellery. “Conversion is very high. They’re coming specifically to your store so conversion is significantly higher. This is a targeted buyer,” says Derian. In contrast, with a mall location, while there may be significantly more foot traffic, he explains. “The intention to buy jewellery is not there.” The shopper may come in and browse because they enjoy window-shopping, something may catch their eye, but most didn’t come to the mall with the intent to buy
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a luxury item. In a stand-alone store “three come in, two buy, versus 10 walk in, one buys,” in a mall location, explains Derian. And, within that segment of traffic that may be converted – retailers have competition within the mall. There may be several similar retailers, plus the department store jewellery counters all vying for that same customer who is not just shopping, but comparison-shopping the competition, all under one roof. While the customer conversion is dramatically different between the two location models, the mediating factor is foot traffic. The Toronto Eaton Centre claims 50 million visitors each year. The West Edmonton Mall gets over 30 million visitors. Vancouver’s Metropolis at Metrotown lists their visitors into the millions too. Few stand-alone stores will have as significant traffic. And while smaller malls have scaled-down numbers on visitors from these mega-malls, the bottom line boils down to how the number of visitors can be converted into buyers. The targeted ones are more likely to buy while the right retailer can capture sales from the passive shopper. But foot traffic comes at a price. Mall rent is quite significantly higher than in a stand-alone store. “The rent depends on the mall and the store,” says Maureen Atkinson, senior partner at J.C. Williams Group. As a member of the Retail Council of Canada, they specialize in consulting and advising to the retail sector. “Base rent with an escalator clause based on sales – percentage rent,” Atkinson explains, can put a hefty price tag on each square foot the retailer rents from the mall. “The idea is, if the mall is producing for you, and you’re producing well, both your store and the mall benefits.” Plus, she explains, you want to be in a key area. “You want to be in the highest traffic location – but with prestige as well. You want a corner location that leads to the main aisle of the mall.” Of course prime real estate is always at a premium, but a corner, with
the ability to showcase more jewellery and more access to the store, gives you greater odds that visitors will come in and give you the opportunity to convert them to buyers. And the expense doesn’t end at the monthly rent cheque. Malls expect merchants to maintain, renovate, upgrade and update – and it’s not cheap. “At renewal, you’re expected to renovate your location,” says Derian. “In a jewellery store, everything is custom, it’s extraordinarily expensive to renovate. You want a longer term lease to amortize the costs over the long term.” While not committing to a specific number, Derian compares the expense of properly renovating a store to buying a house. All of the cabinetry, shelving and displays are custom. The investment is justifiable in two ways: 1) A beautiful store attracts customers and speaks to the retailer’s sense of knowledge of style. 2) It gives the retailer the assurance that all the stores around them have to maintain the same high standards too. The nicer the mall, the better the traffic and clientele. That’s not to say that a stand-alone store doesn’t have to maintain a style or update their store – but they generally aren’t under the same obligation to do so. Stand-alone stores may be in a small plaza, grouped with a few other stores, they may be in a block of street shopping or they may be in a more isolated location. The landlord isn’t focused on maintaining the integrity of an entire mall; they’re focused on keeping a small number of rentals occupied. The rent is significantly lower. The landlord may want renovations, but they may also be willing to offset some of the expense. “They want a small centre to be successful, so they are more helpful to the store,” says Derian. He also notes that ‘street-level’ retailers may have the option of buying their location and paying themselves the rent – possibly even capturing income from additional rentals within the building that allow them to subsidize their costs. It’s a dramatic difference in overhead, but there’s a lot of added value included in the rent in a mall location. It’s not value that a stand-alone landlord will be able to offer their tenant. “A retailer benefits from being in close proximity to other strong brands and being able to leverage marketing opportunities to promote their brand in print and digital offered by the shopping centre,” says Diana Pitassi, marketing manager, Markville Shopping Centre for The Cadillac Fairview Corporation. “Markville, for example, recently completed a $111 million transformation, and attracts customers near and far because of its strong mix of world class retail brands… Markville’s relaunch campaign incorporated several new stores in print and digital ads, radio and TV in order to develop awareness in the centre’s primary and secondary trade area.” As well as the heavy benefit of additional marketing reach, the infrastructure to support the retailers is extensive. Ambient seating, food and restrooms all offer comforts, while the indoor space provides protection from the elements and the mall security adds an additional layer of safety and protection – quite important for an industry so vulnerable to theft. From marketing to security, the mall retailers still have to invest in their own as well, but this added layer being afforded by the mall is quite advantageous. A stand-alone store doesn’t benefit from that kind of major marketing or overall massive investment in infrastructure. But what a stand-alone store does have is its place in the community. A long-term stand-alone store builds up a strong and loyal community-based clientele, where trusted wordof-mouth referral drives business, often through generations. Upping the marketing budget – up to four times, suggests Derian – may be necessary, but a stand-alone retailer would be creating targeted advertising as opposed to the mall’s marketing which is developing traffic for the mall as a whole, not directed at the specific store. One huge benefit to being a stand-alone jewellery retailer – the store can be more responsive to the ebb and flow of traffic. Malls strictly dictate the
operation hours, while stand-alones are generally able to set hours to match the demand. It’s a huge savings on overhead – especially labour. A standalone retailer can target an area that has complementary retail, while being selective about how much competition is in the neighbourhood. They may choose an option with dedicated parking, great tourist presence and regular foot traffic – or based on the reputation of the community. “Absolutely with retail it’s location, location, location,” says Atkinson. Toronto’s Bloor Street neighbourhood, the part of Yorkville known as the Mink Mile, Atkinson points out, delivers the right traffic to high-end luxury jewellery retailers like Tiffany & Co., Birks and Royal de Versailles. A new retailer may find that a stand-alone location is not just the better option, but also the only option for starting out. While traffic in the millions may seem quite lucrative, only the bigger brands can access those leases. Malls vet merchants before allowing them to rent. The busier, upscale malls won’t rent to a one-off, unknown store. They want the brand power of each retailer adding to the panache of the mall’s identity – it’s a relationship where both sides need each other. A retailer who isn’t performing up to expectations will likely find their lease won’t be renewed. “Renewal is difficult if they don’t want you to stay,” says Derian. Ultimately, the two different types of locations suit two different business models. With different overhead, a different type of clientele, different security concerns and a definite difference in competition, the chains tend to fair better in the malls, especially the bigger ones, while the specialized and committed retailer may find their niche really is in the stand-alone. With room for crossing over – from stand-alone to mall or from mall to stand-alone – a strong understanding of the demands of the business is the key to success, and to finding the perfect location. CJ
All photos courtesy of Markville Mall, The Cadillac Fairview Group
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Feature
Capital Ideas
What are the options for financing your business?
by Sarah B. Hood
WHEN PEOPLE WHO SELL CARS OR FURNITURE need capital investment, they head to the bank. For jewellers, it’s not so simple. “There really are no banks available any more for the small diamond or jewellery business,” says Orith Wadell, COO of the New York-based private lending company Owl Financial Group LLC. “The diamond banks are being much more careful in who they lend money to and where the money has come from.” Many jewellers are modest family businesses, but “the banks are now requiring lengthy financial statements and quarterly reports,” says Wadell. “Larger companies have the staff to prepare all these reports,” but smaller companies “tend not to prepare reports like this on a regular basis.” “I think it’s very hard for bankers,” says Myles Mindham, founder of Mindham Fine Jewellery Inc. in Toronto, who has enjoyed a supportive 30year banking relationship. “There is an incredibly wonderful, ethical, moral group of people in the jewellery business, and there is the exact opposite.” Furthermore, “bankers don’t know what a $50,000 or a $250,000 diamond looks like. They’re entirely over a barrel when it comes to inventory.” “Globally, there have definitely been issues with the diamond industry,” says Wadell, “and for that reason there is less money available.” Among other situations, she refers to a major scandal in Israel involving a fraudulent bank, which sent shockwaves through the country’s prominent diamond industry in 2012. “Some banks have pulled out of the industry. ABN Amro had an international diamond and jewellery group that was headquartered in New
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York, and I believe they have closed up operations entirely.” KBC announced last November that it would close its Antwerp Diamond Bank in the U.S. within six months. As younger members of jewellery families choose other professions, the options for family financing decrease, so some businesses are creating shortterm alliances in order to acquire inventory. “I’m seeing businesses that used to be competitors buying and selling diamonds together,” says Wadell, whose Owl Financial Group was also born out of a partnership between two independent diamond wholesalers: M. Ben-Dor Diamonds Inc. and Blue River Gems Inc. Owl Financial Group specializes in loans to the wholesale diamond and jewellery industry. Typically, Wadell’s clients are holding inventory that is not moving, while their customers are asking for something they do not currently have in stock. For instance, a diamond dealer may wish to supply his customer with three-carat stones, “but his safe is full of one- and two-carat diamonds. [In return for a loan], he pledges these stones, and we take physical possession.” The stones are returned when the loan is repaid, having enabled the dealer to finance his purchases without having to liquidate them, perhaps at a considerable loss. There are some other sources of financing; one that may not be well known in the industry is the Business Development Bank of Canada (BDC). “In terms of the financing landscape, in Canada you have your traditional financing institutions – the tier-one banks – and then there’s BDC, which
complements the chartered banks,” says BDC Senior Manager Jasmin Ganie-Hobbs. “Our raison d’être is to create and develop Canadian businesses through financing, venture capital and consulting.” BDC focuses on small- and medium-size enterprises (up to 499 employees). Most loans fall within the range of $25,000 to $500,000, but “if a company needs $2 million of working capital and they can service that debt, we can service that loan, and we do. Many of the loans that we do are not secured by tangible assets,” says Ganie-Hobbs. “The lending terms are designed to give companies maximum financial control, flexibility and operating efficiency,” she says. Assistance is not reserved for start-ups; established businesses are also welcome to apply. Unlike a bank, BDC offers extremely flexible repayments terms, which can even include postponement on payments. “We offer non-demand term loans; we are committed for the entire term of the loan,” says Ganie-Hobbs. “BDC does have loan products that can accommodate many types of working capital, including buying inventory to increase sales. BDC is more focused on cash flow [than inventory], so when we look at financing a loan, the security that may be offered on a loan is often the lesser part [of the criteria].” Instead “ability to service the debt, as well as a healthy balance sheet” are considered. BDC’s Market Expansion Financing Program exists “to finance the expansion of a company’s domestic or foreign marketing strategy,” Ganie-Hobbs says. It is limited to $100 thousand, but the terms are very flexible. The
money can be put towards attendance at trade shows, purchase of additional inventory, printing costs, e-commerce strategy or other areas. “We’re here as a development bank; we’re not just a profit-motivated institution.” For those who still wish to pursue financing from traditional banks, Mindham suggests a policy of relationship building. In his company’s early days, he says, “I would literally go to visit them to show them my bank statements. Retailers always phone when there’s trouble or need; it’s always great to phone your banker when you’ve just had a great success. When I sold my first million-dollar piece, the first call I made was to my banker.” Mindham says banks are looking for “some history or some assurance that this guy is what he says he is”, so he makes sure to be predictable. “Every year we borrow to the maximum; we use our full line of credit in inventoring up and we pay it all off fully at the end of the year,” he says. I’ve always treated my bank like a partner.” Ganie-Hobbs says there are two key things to remember. “One of the biggest challenges [is that] entrepreneurs don’t know what their options are and they don’t know what bankers are looking for. So get to know your banker!” she advises. “Two: knowing the industry as a whole – what are all of the options available for the industry?” When it comes to financing, knowledge is power. It’s also the gateway to capital and growth. CJ
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CJ Interview
Pearls of wisdom
Mikimoto America is celebrating its 120th anniversary this year and COO Meyer Hoffman is more than proud to be part of a brand that has established itself as a worldrenowned expert when it comes to pearls.
Meyer Hoffman, Mikimoto America COO
by Kavita Sabharwal
AS A CHILD, MEYER HOFFMAN DREAMED OF TRAVELING the world. It only seemed fitting that the born-and-bred New Yorker grew up to become the chief operating officer of the Japan-based, international pearl brand Mikimoto America. “I’ve lived in five countries and I think in a really circuitous way, my early [college] background in sociology fit right into my dream of traveling the world and most importantly, living in these countries,” says Hoffman. “You travel on vacation, it’s one experience. You live in a country for five years, you need to like the culture, live in the culture, eat the food, drink the drink, and I’ve enjoyed every single country that I’ve worked in.” This year Mikimoto is celebrating a milestone – 120 years since Kokichi Mikimoto, a Japanese entrepreneur, created the world’s first cultured pearl. The son of a noodle shop owner in Toba, Shima Province, Mikimoto’s fascination with pearls began at a young age when he would watch pearl divers unload their treasures at the shore. In 1888, Mikimoto started his first pearl oyster farm and by 1897 he began exporting his cultured pearls to the rest of the world.
Going Global “Kokichi Mikimoto was a very, very creative marketing man,” says Hoffman. “Even in the 20s and 30s, he was setting up expositions around the world to expose the world to the brand of Mikimoto.” Hoffman joined the company in 2003, at a time when president Mr. Mikimoto, a descendant of founder Kokichi, truly wanted to build the brand’s presence and transform the company into a global entity. “I think he was trying to create a global brand,” explains Hoffman. “Mikimoto is the leader in Japan and the company has been very Japanesecentric. Ten years ago, their focus was Japan. I would say maybe 80 per cent of their revenue was generated in Japan. I think for Mr. Mikimoto to hire me, he was recognizing the need to expand the reach and globalize Mikimoto.”
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Honouring History To keep himself motivated and passionate about his job, Hoffman says he needs only to come to work every day. “It’s true, I enjoy what I do,” he says. “I come to work every day excited. I work with a great group of people that are also passionate about what they do. I think that makes this job very enjoyable.” Hoffman’s strong affinity to Japan and its market have added a lot of value to his role at Mikimoto. Having lived in Japan during the 80s and 90s for various work-related opportunities, Hoffman also got married and raised his children there, helping him develop a really strong understanding of the Japanese culture and market. “Japan was already in my blood, and the brand is a world famous brand,” he says. “It has a rich history and it was exciting and a great thrill to me to have the opportunity to join such a prestigious brand as Mikimoto.” Today, the accomplished COO is working hard on garnering more consumer awareness for Mikimoto, which, in his opinion, can always grow. “I think we’re always challenged to maintain and build that awareness of the Mikimoto brand,” he says. “Pearls are very plentiful. There are a lot of pearls in the world; there are a lot of pearl companies in the world, but I don’t think anybody could name a brand in this category other than Mikimoto, and we need to constantly push the envelope to keep that awareness at the top of mind.” But that thing that ultimately makes Hoffman so tremendous at his job is the sense of pride he feels for being part of this brand – a name that he considers to be the purveyor of the best pearls in the world. “It’s an honour to work for the best,” he says. “It really is something that you take a lot of pride in, knowing that you are working for a company that has a 120-year history. There are very few companies that can say that they’re a leader in the industry in providing the very best pearls on the market. And that, to me, means a lot.” CJ
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For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 120
3521, boulevard Thimens St-Laurent, QuĂŠbec H4R 1V5 tel. (514) 337-4455 fax. (514) 337-4581 info@wengersltd.com info@wengersltd.com
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fax. (514) 337-4581
14-02-05 11:13 AM
On Display
What’s your intention?
The most common display mistake retail jewellers make and how to correct it. by Larry B. Johnson
FREQUENTLY, WHEN I AM GIVING SEMINARS OR CONSULTING with store owners about their displays, I am asked if there is one “most common mistake” I see. The answer is always easy. Yes, there is. It is the lack of “intention” in the showcase. Stated differently, it is the absence of awareness or a plan or strategy for how the merchandise is shown. There are several obvious symptoms that indicate this condition exists. See if your cases suffer from this dreaded condition! You can tell a case is lacking in intention by the fact that the jewellery is just “put in” the case without much thought. You can almost see the sales associate that installed the case that morning just quickly trying to get it all in before the doors are unlocked. Trays are lined up like soldiers. Rings are crooked in the displays. Tags are hanging out and disheveled. Big neckforms feature tiny pendants. The case is a mess because no one has taken the time to really look and see what their customers are seeing. No one has asked, “What are we trying to do here? What do we want most to sell? What are we conveying to the client?” Good news! There is a sure-fire, permanent cure for this malady and it can be yours at no charge if you follow a few simple steps and take your blinders off. Step 1 – You have to realize that successful jewellers do not just display their goods, they present them. Some jewellers unknowingly become complacent in setting out their merchandise because it is a daily exercise that is almost a mindless part of getting ready for the day, like putting on socks. The important difference is that the manner in which the merchandise is positioned in the case directly impacts not only how many people see it but how its value is perceived by the customer. I realize you cannot make every piece special in a case with dozens of choices, but you can make the pieces you want most to sell look special. Once you have put your goods in the case, take a moment and walk away from the cases to really look at your selection. Is it inviting? Is it organized well? Can you see everything without shadows or are there any pieces blocking each other? Is the case adequately lit? Does the case convey the impression you want?
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Step 2 – Display your merchandise in a manner befitting its role in the case. Feature the best items more prominently than the lesser pieces. I like the “20-40-40” rule. Put the best 20 per cent of the merchandise in the case in individual displays (like single ring fingers or earring stands). If this merchandise is the “BEST,” then display it like it is. It deserves a distinctive setting so when you tell your customer something great about it, the presentation is compatible with what you are saying about it. Now take the next 40 per cent of your merchandise and put it in trays that hold three pieces. This merchandise is your “BETTER” goods. It is not displayed like the BEST but it is displayed in a way that is better than the last 40 per cent or “GOOD” merchandise. The “GOOD” (bottom 40 per cent) merchandise is shown in trays of five, seven, nine or more. These high-density trays show selection and are there to make the “BETTER” and “BEST” goods sell more. Think about this. You have this gorgeous ring that is superior in every way. You can discuss its beauty for hours. Doesn’t it deserve to be displayed individually? If you take that ring out of a tray of 11 other rings, isn’t that visually incongruent with what you are saying about it? Make sure your displays match what you are saying about the pieces. Bottom line: If you find your showcases are suffering for a lack of intention, try these ideas. Then take this concept of merchandising with intention even further. Keep images of how your cases look on the first of each month so when you look at your sales results, you’ll have a record of what worked and what didn’t. Try new things in your cases. Remove old stock to make it easier to find the new stuff. Put a plan together to increase sales of your merchandise by improving your display. Keep your head in the game! Fight the temptation of allowing the routine of daily store life to force your cases to slip into complacency. Paying attention to your cases will pay handsome dividends! If you’d like a free “Daily Store Opening Checklist,” send an email to Larry@LarryJohnsonConsulting.com with the word “checklist” in the title and I’ll send one to you. CJ
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14-02-06 2:12 PM
T: (877) 561-BEST T: (416) 928-0707 F: (416) 924-0111
&
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JVC Report
Security and aesthetics can go hand-in-hand
Don’t wait until a robbery occurs at your store. A few simple additions to your showcase can make all the difference. by John Lamont, Director of Loss Prevention, JVC
ON AUGUST 7, 2013, A MALE ENTERED A JEWELLERY STORE in Winnipeg and used a small crowbar to smash a jewellery showcase to steal a large number of Rolex watches. On September 18, 2013, a male entered a jewellery store in Hamilton’s Lime Ridge Mall, used a steel bar to smash the doors on a showcase and steal high-end watches. On October 24, 2013, a male entered a jewellery store in Hamilton and used a gun to smash showcases and steal high-end watches, and on October 31, 2013, several men entered a jewellery store in Ontario’s York Region and smashed several showcases with a sledgehammer, stealing a large number of Rolex watches. All of these events were huge losses. Not only is the loss of merchandise significant, the retailer has to buy replacement merchandise and replace the broken showcase. This does not take into account the trauma faced by store employees. When these showcases are repaired and re-stocked with merchandise, is the broken glass replaced with plate glass or tempered glass? Are the doors replaced with particleboard veneer or plate glass? Has the retailer increased the store’s level of security by improving on the material used in the showcase? Most jewellers simply use the same material that was in the showcase prior to the robbery. Do they really believe that this was a one-time occurrence that will never happen again? Albert Einstein wrote: "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results." At Bayshore Shopping Centre near Ottawa, Ontario, a masked couple walked into a jewellery store and tried to smash the glass on the diamond solitaire case with a small crowbar. The showcase looked similar to showcases in the incidents listed above but the glass would not break. Why? The glass itself was the same tempered glass as used in most showcases but it had been coated on the inside with a clear security film, which is a very inexpensive process, but one that can save a retailer thousands of dollars. Companies such as Faubion Associates make showcases with this clear
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film attached. The company’s website shows smash test videos conducted on their jewellery showcases. The videos demonstrate that even sledgehammers cannot penetrate the glass, based on the thickness of the film applied. There are other glass companies that will apply the film, but a showcase is only as strong as its weakest point. If your showcase is made of particleboard, the glass may not break but the showcase could fall apart. Plywood veneer is a better option because it is much stronger. There are many companies that sell security film laminate on the Internet, such as 3M. This film can be used on windows and doors as well. You may not wish to pay extra to have such a high degree of security on your fashion jewellery showcase because armed robbers rarely target these cases, but high-end watches and expensive diamonds should be protected. There are also security showcases on the market that in appearance are no different than any other showcase. However, they are automated, so at the end of the day, by pushing a button the entire showcase bed will lower into the case and a steel cover will slide over the bed and lock in place. In appearance, the store looks like all the merchandise has been removed. Even if bandits knew the product was in the lower showcase, it would take too long to get at the merchandise, effectively discouraging any break-ins to the store. This type of case can also reduce closing times for staff and eliminate wear and tear on props and displays. This is far more effective than throwing cloth covers over the showcase, hoping the bandits don’t know what's underneath. Jewellers will want to check their insurance policies to determine what must be placed in a high-security safe. You can have a high degree of security on your showcases and still have beautiful, customer appealing cases. CJ
Note: JVC provides names of security companies as a service to its members but JVC does not endorse any products, manufacturers or services and assumes no liability for the use of products or services mentioned in his article.
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14-02-06 2:15 PM
Camera. Clarity. Criminal. Caught. The Four C’s of the JVC Crime Alert.
JVC Crime Alerts provide timely information and photographs on jewellery crime in Canada that may help protect your store from fraud, diamond thefts or diamond switches. This valuable service is part of the JVC Crime Prevention Package, which also includes: • Crime Prevention Manual (CD format) • Access to JVC’s Security Library
• Crime Prevention Bulletins on effective security procedures • Security Supplier directory
Visit www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca or call 1-800-636-9536 to sign up for your 2014 JVC Crime Prevention Package.
Jewellers Vigilance Canada An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry. CRIME PREVENTION • RESOURCE PROTECTION • SAFETY AWARENESS In partnership with
Keeping Time
Modern-day workshop
Watch technology has come a long way but so has the technology required to repair those watches. by Kuldip Rupra
HAVING THE CORRECT EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS IS ESSENTIAL for running a professional workshop. When seeking out a repair center for watch repairs, it’s important to look for the best possible option. Entrusted valuables should be handled and serviced with care. In the past, repairing a watch only required tools like caseback openers/ presses, mini screwdriver sets, a watchmaker’s hammer and personal experience. Back then, watches had less components and water resistance requirements. With all of the changes that have taken place over the last decade, it became more important than ever to invest time and money into the service center of your choice. Water resistance testing machines are one of the most important pieces of equipment required in a modern-day workshop. A good machine will provide accuracy and a printout for the customer. Contrary to most beliefs, a water test does not require the watch to actually be immersed in water, rather the machine will use a vacuum and a pressure system to determine if there is a leak in the seal. Fully automatic cleaning machines are now available for ease and efficiency, making it possible for watchmakers to move onto other tasks and return to the machine when it’s ready. In the long run, this results in increased productivity within the workshop and a quicker turnaround time. Regulation machines are used to provide accurate timekeeping on automatic watches. A good regulation machine provides a printout and holds the watch at different angles as gravity effects all of the parts inside the movement. This is great for tracking accuracy over time when the watch happens to need service again in the future. Computer integration within the workshop has been the greatest change and challenge of all. Watchmakers are now required to use a computer for repair information, to look up parts, or to record completed work. This is a new trend within our trade.
• • • • • •
Research is key when choosing a great repair center. It is recommended that you visit any potential choices on your list in person.
Remember: A repair center that has invested in its own workshop will also invest in its customer and provide the best possible service. CJ
Things to look for: Equipment and tools available for various challenges – Swiss-made tools are superior to the rest Organization of tools and work space – The workshop should be large and comfortable enough for watchmakers to move around freely – Good lighting – Cleanliness Organization of parts and ease of finding the right ones Outsourcing policies Security and insurance provisions Repair database and functionality – What kind of information is available to the customer, reports that are available, etc. – Online access
Kuldip Rupra is a third-generation watchmaker with more than 40 years of experience. One million-plus watches have been serviced at his company, TimeRevolution.com. Kuldip is a member of the Canadian Jewellers Association and the American Watchmakers – Clockmakers Institute.
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Are your sales efforts persuasive? The five steps to motivate buying behaviour
Marketing + Strategy
How effective will your 2014 sales efforts be? Remembering to include five essential elements of a persuasive sales pitch can help you achieve your goals.
For more than 20 years, David Maus-Berkley has served and advised a variety of organizations, helping them build and execute marketing, communication and PR plans. You may reach David at mausberkley@zoho.com
by David Maus-Berkley
HOW EFFECTIVE WILL YOUR 2014 SALES EFFORTS BE? Remembering to include five essential elements of a persuasive sales pitch can help you achieve your goals. All selling is an act of persuasion, defined as communicating to influence a desired change in the attitudes, beliefs, and/or behaviours of a target audience.
You, of course, are looking to elicit from a specific audience (your customers) a specific desired behaviour (the purchase of your jewellery merchandise). To help you accomplish this objective, you can apply a model of persuasion that is not only simple but also proven to increase your selling efforts’ likelihood of success. Developed in the mid-1930s as an outline for persuasive speeches, Monroe’s Motivated Sequence, named after the Purdue University professor who developed it, quickly caught the attention of advertising executives and creatives. Since then, this model has served as the outline for thousands of print, radio, and television advertisements. You can apply the Motivated Sequence to your business’s advertisements, flyers, promotions … and even the subtle conversational pitches your sales associates make on the showroom floor. As you work to boost sales in the year ahead, keep these five simple steps in mind:
Attention Whether your advertising budget allows for a billboard or just poster board, you need to find creative ways of getting your audience’s attention. Keep in mind that, like all of your business communications, your attentiongrabbing tactic must align with your brand. Whether you use a surprising statement or statistic, colourful new signage and artwork, a promotion, a stunt, an event, ads, PR, social media, or another device to capture your customers’ and prospects’ attention, everything you do and say must be consistent with your brand image.
Need Before jumping to present your solution — that is, the product and/or service that you’re pitching — first instill the notion of a problem, a deficiency, or need, that the product or service can satisfy. What specific human need is satisfied by your merchandise, your service, and/or the extra touches that you provide? Jewellery may have little to no physical utility, but it has existed since the dawn of civilization because of fundamental human needs to differentiate, to reflect status, to impress, to express devotion, to claim a mate, and to memorialize occasions, among others.
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Ask yourself why you sell jewellery, and what human needs you’re satisfying with your products and services. Be sure to lay out these needs in every sales pitch you make. Use examples, illustrations, testimonials, or other evidence to reinforce that your customers have an unmet need. With a few conversational questions, a sales associate often can get a better idea of which specific type of need will drive the interest of a particular customer.
Satisfaction Now swoop in to the rescue. Present your merchandise, service, extra touches, and, in particular, whatever traits and characteristics you use to differentiate your business’s brand as the best solution to fulfill the need. Present yourself and your business as uniquely able to provide full satisfaction.
Visualization Present a picture of the future to your customer. Show the positive outcomes the customer will experience by adopting your solution and/or the negative outcomes of failing to adopt your solution. Here is a hypothetical example that lays out the negatives to set up the positives: “If you buy her the fancy new electronic device instead of this diamond bracelet, you’ll be putting a time limit on your gift. Electronics break down, are made obsolete by new technologies, and are eventually forgotten. But that diamond bracelet will be perpetual. Every time she looks at it and wears it — whether one year, five years, or twenty years from now — she’ll value and appreciate your gift and the sentiment behind it.”
Action “Ask for the order” and “always be closing” are sales-related adages that reflect on this final and critical step. Seal the deal and give your customer clear instructions on how to obtain your solution. In your case, you’ll ask for and obtain the customer’s commitment to purchase, and go over options for payment, financing, layaway, warranty, insurance, and gift-wrapping. The Motivated Sequence model is simple — even intuitive. Yet many attempts at selling fall short because of the omission of one or more of its fundamental thoughts. When you’re crafting your advertisements, social media and PR statements, sales collateral, and sales pitches for the showroom, remember this sequence of logic that builds to a closed sale. Use persuasion to hit your 2014 goals! CJ
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Gems + Gemmology
Going once, going twice, sold!
When it comes to auctions, there are some design trends that become very popular and eventually fade, while certain styles tend to make a mark upon their arrival and prove to stand the test of time. by Duncan Parker WHEN THE ART DECO STYLE OF THE 1920s to 30s arrived, it stayed and only grew in popularity throughout the years. The work of this regulated, geometric design discipline has been in constant demand ever since it was first made. Although there are many replicas and attempts at making Art Deco-inspired pieces today, the original jewellery from that era is highly sought-after. But not everyone is a huge fan of Deco; my grandmother lived in an Art Deco-inspired house that had no square corners and was fully furnished with pieces from the 20s and 30s. After she had moved from that home, she told me, “I always disliked that house and that dreadful furniture, and when we moved, I was so grateful.” Following the Great Depression, WWII, and all of the restraint required in those times of need, retro-inspired jewellery really found its strength. This time period showcased newly perfected methods of manufacturing and conveyed the impression of the unbridled possibilities of generating wealth, particularly in the United States. While Art Deco has held its place well in the vintage market and among buyers at auctions, Retro jewellery seems to have a slightly diminished demand. It may make a comeback but right now, it is less sought after than Deco and tends to be priced very well for the buyer. When examining items that existed before the 1970s, it’s important to note that pieces dating over 100 years of age are considered true antiques. The most common antique items found at auctions today come from a period spanning between 1870 and 1910. As with any antique article, whether it is a table, chair, ring, or brooch, the closer it is to its original condition, the better. Auction hunters have the greatest demand for jewels that are in their original and unaltered conditions. These can sell well, especially among well-informed collectors. However, repairs are not usually very visible from the front of a jewel and can mean an excellent buy for something that is genuinely unique. While there is a buyer for everything, certain styles and design trends have proven to have a higher demand than others and Art Deco is definitely one of them. CJ
Art Deco Ring from the November 2013 Dupuis auction
Retro Brooch and Earrings from the November 2013 Dupuis auction
Two Antique Victorian Memorial Brooches from the November 2013 Dupuis auction All photography: Dupuis Auctioneers
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Canadian Jeweller Magazine through the Ages To mark our upcoming 135th anniversary, Canadian Jeweller Magazine is taking a look back at the remarkable changes in the magazine and the jewellery world in the past 135 years. In our last issue, we examined the 1950s; here, we look at the 1960s and the mod jewellery fashion at the time…
135th Year Retrospective
by Irina Lytchak and Marielle Torrefranca
1960s
THE
In history: While 1957 marked the introduction of diamond grading certificates, the 60s saw crystals being featured in their raw and uncut state. This time period was highlighted by bright hues, bold shapes and jagged contours. The brooch became the standout piece of this decade. Many international jewellery houses were deeply influenced by Indian culture, adopting rich colours and creating pieces that were a stunning illustration of the visual power of yellow gold. During this time, Bucellatti also made a point to put a lot of focus on this metal, creating elaborate designs and producing new textures that propelled the jewellery designer’s name to the forefront of the industry. In the magazine: The 1960s was an era during which the magazine shifted closer to its more modern form, being published under the name Canadian Jeweller. The cover design now focused more on editorial content as opposed to advertising. CJ
Left: Audrey Hepburn wore the Ribbon Rosette necklace with ribbon clip and diamonds, mounted with the Tiffany Yellow Diamond in publicity photographs for the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany’s, 1960s (Jean Schlumberger); Above: Cover of January 1960 issue of Canadian Jeweller; focus on sales predictions for the year and Valentine’s Day promotions
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Clockwise from top left: Alarm watch in automatic movement with 17 jewels, gold-plated brass case, silver dial with 11 indexes and 11 painted Roman numerals, 1960s (Bucherer); Diamond and Cultured Pearl Necklace, circa 1960 (Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers, $4,000-5,000); “Necklace with emeralds and pearls” in white and yellow gold set with emeralds and cultured baroque pearls, 1961 (Mario Buccellati); Hand-wound ball watch with an enamel case, silver dial featuring four Arabic numerals and eight indexes, 1960s (Bucherer); “Cardinal’s Brooch” pendant in yellow gold set with rose-cut diamonds surrounding bezels in yellow, green or pink gold embedded with cabochon emeralds, sapphires and a large rubellite, hanging from a white gold chain featuring a bilière with one cabochon emerald and three cabochon sapphires, 1963 (Mario Buccellati); Rare Gentlemen’s Stainless Steel Single Button Chronograph Wristwatch by OMEGA, made for the Royal Canadian Air Force, circa 1960 (Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers, $3,000-4,000)
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MAGAZINE
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Classified A DV ERT ISING
Help Wanted Jewellery Sales Person for custom / retail store in Victoria BC. The skills and qualifications for this position include: Selling custom work and finished jewellery as well as taking in repairs. Operating computerized POS terminal. Send and answer emails, upload pictures ect. Basic knowledge of gems and diamonds is necessary. Good communication skills are essential. Please contact us by email at t1000w@hotmail.com
FOR SALE One of a kind, Goldsmith/Jewellery store located in prime downtown location in Glace Bay, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia. Established loyal clientele since 1984. Square footage 2 134. Business consists of buzz entry, security system, 1 large vault with 2 separate combinations and 1 large safe with single combination. Goldsmith equipment and show room accessories negotiable. Inventory negotiable. Building consists of large above-store, one bedroom apartment with private entrance. Furnishings and appliances negotiable. Excellent business opportunity. Turn key operation. Owner retiring after 29 years of successful business at this location. If you require clarification or more information, please contact Laurie at 902-849-5865 during business hours (Mon.- Sat. 10am to 5pm) or by email: laurie.plante.1951@hotmail.com
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Romancing the Stone THE HOLIDAY SEASON MAY BE OVER but that doesn’t mean your customer has to say goodbye to the sparkle and shine! With Valentine’s Day setting the tone for the month, romance is in the air and anyone can be a part of the action with the right outfit and distinct jewellery. Whether your customer is heading to a work function or for a romantic evening dinner, the little black dress will take them a long way when paired with sophisticated and fanciful jewellery pieces. Think statement rings with large stones, deep shades of brown, red and green, and gold paired with diamonds. Finally, a bold pair of heels (preferably in red) is a guaranteed way to add a dose of glamour to any outfit. CJ
Style Council
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1. Robert Rodriguez Dress, $670, available at Holt Renfrew 2. Caravelle New York ‘Black & Gold’ 37mm Watch with 96 crystals, $110 3. Swarosvki Venetie Long Tassel Pendant, $220 4. Vince Camuto Small Cleo Clutch, $200, available at Hudson’s Bay and Arnold Churgin Shoes 5. Makur Designs Morganite and Diamond Ring set in 18k Rose and White Gold 6. Charlotte Simone Scarf, $495, available at Holt Renfrew 7. Bohemme Caviar Collection Earrings with Blue, Pink, and White Topaz, $1,241 8. Fendi T-strap Sandal, $865, available at Holt Renfrew
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16 9. Manolo Blahnik Pretati Patent Leather & Suede Pumps, $795, available at Holt Renfrew 10. Swarovski Vi Bracelet with sparkling clear crystal pavé, $125 11. Vince Camuto Sleeveless Jewel Neck Peonies Blouse, $125, available at Samuel & Co, and Hudson’s Bay 12. Caravelle New York ‘Black & Gold’ 20mm Watch, $59 13. Banana Republic Fit and Flare Skirt, $240 14. Stuller 14k Yellow Gold with Smoky Quartz and Diamond Halo-Style Drop Earrings, $2,679 15. Kate Spade New York Lisa Bow-print Mesh Pump, $328, available at Holt Renfrew 16. Bohemme Caviar Collection Ring with Green and White Topaz, $1,048 17. Marc by Marc Jacobs Clutch in East End Colorblocked Lady Rei, $398, available at Holt Renfrew
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Last Word
Celestial Sensation by Kavita Sabharwal
THE PATEK PHILIPPE SKY MOON TOURBILLON is no ordinary watch, but a sculpture for your wrist. An undeniable masterpiece when it comes to artistry and craftsmanship, this timepiece features a hand-carved white gold case, a spectacular milled gold front dial with blue enamel, and a perpetual calendar. The unique back dial shows off the night sky of the northern hemisphere with the motions of the stars and the moon. Each Sky Moon Tourbillon model created is carefully inspected and approved by master artisan and Patek Philippe President, Thierry Stern. But the show doesn’t stop there. Whoever is lucky enough to own this piece of treasure receives it in a rare, Macassar ebony box with hand-engraved white gold adornments and blue lacquer accents, complete with two hand-engraved 18k white gold cufflinks. Talk about a “stellar” souvenir. (Price upon request) CJ
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elle@paj.ca
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