CJ JCK Issue 2017

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The independent voice for the industry since 1879

JCK ISSUE 2017

Canadian Jeweller Magazine

ROUGH CUTS:

CITY SLICKER

4 2 7 0 9 0 1 3 | 9 2 0 Y O N G E S T R E E T S U I T E 6 1 0 T O R O N T O O N T A R I O M 4 W 3 C 7 / $ 2 5

Get down to business with Pierre Laurent

UP NEXT: JCK Expect opulence at this year’s event

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JCK ISSUE 2017

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol. 138 / No. 02

Editorial Board

OLI V IER FELICIO C AY L A R A MEY COR R INA MOSCA

Jean-Christophe Bédos Birks, President & CEO

SCOT T JOR DA N DA N IEL L A V IZ Z A R I

Haigo Derian L’Oro Jewellery

CONTRIBUTORS

Gino DeVuono Specialty Watch Resource

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / cayla@thergmgroup.net Editorial Assistant / corrina@thergmgroup.net Art Director / scott@rivegauchemedia.com Graphic Designer / daniella@thergmgroup.net Christine Dwane, Breanne Forbes, Larry Johnson, John Lamont, Shawna Lee, Joelle Litt, Mark Lutley, Duncan Parker, Karen Simmons

Joe Gonçalves Time Central

SALES OLI V IER FELICIO

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6107 / email: olivier@canadianjeweller.com

Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive EDITE M A RTINS

Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6112 / email: edite@thergmgroup.net

Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc.

HEAD OFFICE

920 Yonge Street, Suite 610, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7 tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Phyllis Richard Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. Beth Saunders Canadian Jewellery Group Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd.

MELANIE SETH

Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com

LUC Y HOLDEN

General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net

MONTREAL OFFICE

tel: 514-381-5196

Steve Turac Turac Luxury Group Inc. Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Mart Inc.

SUBSCRIPTION RATES Canada — one year, $50; two years, $85; three years $120. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) plus applicable taxes. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rate (Canada only, for six or more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per year.

CHANGE OF ADDRESS email: circulation@canadianjeweller.com telephone: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392 or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller 920 Yonge St., Suite 610, Toronto, ON. M4W 3C7 PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 920 Yonge St., Ste. 610, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4.

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Departments

Contents

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22

14 EDITOR’S LET TER 16 CONTRIBUTORS 18 WHAT'S ON 20 PRODUCT SHOWCASE 22 STARWATCH Kendall Jenner is the new face of Daniel Wellington 30 ON THE COVER: THAIL AND'S MOST PRECIOUS GEM The 59th Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair was a hotspot for gorgeous designs and insightful events

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80 ST YLE COUNCIL Garden Variety 82 L AST WORD Blossoming Pride

GET THE NEWS AS IT HAPPENS! FIND IT ON OUR WEBSITE, NEWSLETTER AND BI-MONTHLY DIGITAL EDITION

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36

Features & Columns

Contents

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24 FEATURE: SPARKING DOWN THE STRIP At JCK, what happens in Vegas doesn’t have to stay there 36 ROUGH CUTS: CIT Y SLICKER Get down to business with Pierre Laurent 44 RETAILER PROFILE: A CL ASS OF ITS OWN With over 92 years in the business, Nadon’s Jewellery is a tried-and-true industry triumph by Rebekah Kachmarczyk

46 COMPANY PROFILE: IN GOOD TIME Quality product, Swiss techniques, and affordable prices make Pierre Laurent one to watch by Corrina Mosca

48 COMPANY PROFILE: TIME TO SHINE How creativity and passion turned Time Revolution into a top competitor by Cayla Ramey

50 COMPANY PROFILE: A CHEMICAL BAL ANCE How Bijouterie Viko crafted its equation for success by Cayla Ramey

56 FEATURE: RUNNING WITH GIANTS Amazon is emerging as the forerunner in the race for the e-commerce market by Corrina Mosca

58 FEATURE: WORTH ITS WEIGHT IN GOLD The true value of the bullion market by Cayla Ramey

60 FEATURE: SPARKLING BRIGHT Canada's Future Jewellery Market by Karen Simmons

62 ON DISPL AY Set Your Sights by Larry Johnson

64 GEMS & GEMMOLOGY A World of Colour by Duncan Parker

66 JVC ANNUAL CRIME REPORT Criminal Activity Trends In The Canadian Jewellery And Watch Industry

52 RETAILER PROFILE: A PASSIONATE AFFAIR Born from its founder’s love for his craft, Sirus Tanya is a force to be reckoned with on the global stage.

72 JVC COLUMN Risky Business

by Corrina Mosca

by John Lamont

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THAILAND'S

Most Precious Gem BGJF Review

30

The 59th Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair was a hotspot for gorgeous designs and insightful events

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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THE BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR (BGJF) is Asia’s leading trade show for the jewellery industry, providing an outstanding platform for Thai and international jewellery designers and manufacturers to display their latest creations. Organized and managed by the Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP), the BGJF’s 59th edition was a great success, attracting participation from many international buyers and exhibitors. The five-day trade show also provided updates on global market trends through carefully-selected, insightful seminars. Among them were Gem ID Rendezvous, organized by the DITP in collaboration with the Gems and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT) and the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS), the Ruby Contest, and the Ruby Heart of Love charitable fund-raising project to financially support Thai Medical Device Development Foundation (TMDD) under Royal Patronage of King Rama IX. The latter two events aimed to create greater awareness on the World Ruby Forum 2017, which is scheduled to take place later this year in Thailand.

“Thailand is the second largest exporter of jewellery to Canada after the U.S.,” says Chantira Jimreivat Vivatrat, Inspector General of the Ministry of Commerce. “The government has put an emphasis on the jewellery industry, since it’s one of the top five exports of Thailand, and we have challenged ourselves to create and revamp the show to be different than other shows. It is our responsibility to help the buyers and exhibitors build a business.” The 59th BGJF offered plenty of new inducements, such as tax-free sales of jewellery during the fair, a new contemporary layout that gives each exhibitor a more prominent profile, and electronic guidance systems for buyers to link easily with specific exhibitors. In addition, individual sections were dedicated to educational institutions and young designers. “There is a new generation coming up into the industry. The younger generations are starting to create their own brands. You see many designers now who weren’t in the business a few years ago, and some of them are very successful—the aesthetic is excellent,” shares Jimreivat Vivatrat.

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BGJF Review

KICKING OFF THE FAIR was a fashion show where Thailand’s most elite models debuted jewellery from the exhibitors. “Sometimes the jewellery industry cross functions with other industries— which can become very interesting. There are so many sectors that we are strong in, so it’s challenging to create the show and revamp the show again and again to be different for the buyers,” says Jimreivat Vivatrat. With Thailand’s dedication to promoting young designers’ talent, the BGJF dedicated a space to showcasing up-and-coming artisans.

Designers’ Room: ❯ Maison D Company Ltd. ❯ AEC Allianz ❯ The Analog ❯ Ornament L’Or ❯ Mirror Mirror ❯ AEC Allianz

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BGJF Review

As the country’s longest-established gems and jewellery fair, the 59th BGJF is set to welcome over 23,000 visitors and potential buyers from every continent. “The show is a very important tool for the Thailand jewellery industry to build itself up and expand and develop the new market. Through partnerships with designers, retailers and other industries, the show becomes a platform for artists together—which is why it is so important to everyone involved,” relates Jimreivat Vivatrat.

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Rough Cuts:

Pierre Laurent

city

SLICKER Get down to business with Pierre Laurent photography by Scott Jordan styling by Joelle Litt for Judy Inc. hair and grooming by Shawna Lee for Judy Inc. model: Mark Lutley fashion assistant: Reed Eidman

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DECEMBER 2014

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THIS PAGE: An oversized calendar, Swiss-made quartz movement, and a croc-stamped genuine leather strap makes this watch from the Pierre Laurent Contemporary collection an everyday staple. Tiger of Sweden Suit; Bustle Shirt; Strellson Tie; Brodawka & Friends Pocket Square; Kuma at Brodawka & Friends Eyewear OPPOSITE PAGE: Part of the Pierre Laurent Performance collection, this classic style is waterresistant up to 100 metres and features Swiss chronograph movements, oversized date windows, and sapphire crystals. Strellson Suit; Strellson Shirt; Brodawka & Friends Tie; Tiger of Sweden Belt

DECEMBER 2014

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Rough Cuts:

Pierre Laurent

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DECEMBER 2014

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THIS PAGE: This mixed-metal watch from the Pierre Laurent Contemporary collection is all the rage with VVS diamonds set in the dial and bezel, a Swiss chronograph movement, water resistance up to 200 metres. Ted Baker Shirt; NN07 Trouser; Brodawka & Friends Footwear OPPOSITE PAGE: Winner of the Golden Dial Award at the Cannes Film Festival, this watch from the Pierre Laurent Cinema collection has double lock deployment buckles and interchangeable straps. To tie it all together, the case was designed to resemble a segment of 35mm film. Tiger of Sweden Jacket; Strellson Shirt; Brodawka & Friends Pocket Square; NN07 Trouser DECEMBER 2014

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Rough Cuts:

Pierre Laurent

THIS PAGE: This model from the Pierre Laurent Performance collection is both bold and refined. Swiss chronograph movements, sapphire crystal, and oversized date windows give this mixed-metal timepiece a unique look. Tiger of Sweden Shirt; Bustle Trouser; Tiger of Sweden Belt OPPOSITE PAGE: With its sub-dial and stainless steel bracelet, this watch from the Pierre Laurent Classic collection will take you wherever you need to go. Tiger of Sweden Suit; Tiger of Sweden Shirt; Hugo Boss Tie; Brodawka & Friends Pocket Square; Hugo Boss Belt; Tiger of Sweden Bag

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DECEMBER 2014

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Rough Cuts:

Pierre Laurent

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DECEMBER 2014

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THIS PAGE: Winner of the Golden Dial Award at the Cannes Film Festival, this watch from the Pierre Laurent Cinema collection has double lock deployment buckles and interchangeable straps. To tie it all together, the case was designed to resemble a segment of 35mm film. Strellson Shirt; Tiger of Sweden Belt; Strellson Trousers OPPOSITE PAGE: The perfect statement timepiece, the Pierre Laurent Performance collection is one to watch. Water-resistant up to 100 metres, with oversized date windows, sapphire crystals, and natural rubber straps, this watch will take you from the boardroom to the beach. Strellson Bomber Jacket; Ted Baker Shirt; Kuma at Brodawka & Friends Eyewear; Ted Baker Trousers DECEMBER 2014

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Presented by Presented by

Don’t miss this elegant luncheon and auction of tempting jewels donated by leading designers, jewelers, and style setters.

FridayGreat October 27th, 2017Heist The 2016 Jewellery 11:00 a.m. – 2:30 p.m. wasRitz-Carlton, a sparkling success! The Toronto 181 Wellington West, 2nd Floor

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Best Canadian Diamond: Andrei Jiliaev, Jiliaev Jewellery Collection Best Pearl Design: Nick Koss, Volund Jewellery Best Platinum Design: Linda Penwarden, Penwarden Fine Jewellery Best Coloured Gemstone Design: Lucy Necrasova, Myerson’s Limited

Why enter?

= 6 +5 # 24'56+)+175 (147/ +0 9*+%* 61 $' 4'%1)0+<'& $; ;174 2''45 = (('45 64'/'0&175 12214670+6+'5 61 241/16' ;174 #%*+'8'/'06 through marketing initiatives = 1%+#. /'&+# ':21574' 8+# #%'$11- 9+66'4 #0& 056#)4#/ = '8+'9 +0 Canadian Jeweller Magazine = 9#4& 51.+&+(+'5 ;174 215+6+10 +0 6*' +0&7564;

Categories

â?Ż Retail Brand of the Year â?Ž â?Ż Best Canadian Diamond Design â?Ž â?Ż Industry Innovation of the Year â?Ž â?Ż Jewellery Manufacturer of the Year â?Ž â?Ż Best Coloured Gemstone Design â?Ž â?Ż Best Platinum Design â?Ž â?Ż Outstanding Canadian Enterprise of the Year â?Ž â?Ż Outstanding International Enterprise of the Year â?Ž â?Ż Retailer of the Year â?Ž â?Ż eSupplier of the Year â?Ž â?Ż Young Entrepreneur of the Year (Age 40 and under) â?Ž To enter, you will need to submit: = *' %1/2.'6'& 01/+0#6+10 (14/ (170& *'4' 14 10 canadianjeweller.com =

'064; ('' 2'4 01/+0#6+10 = *161)4#2*5 1( 6*' 241&7%6 241&7%6 .+0' $'+0) 01/+0#6'& = #/2.'5 1( #&8'46+5+0) %#/2#+)05 $41%*74'5 '6% /#4-'6+0) the product line = '56+/10+#.5 (41/ #6 .'#56 691 #0#&+#0 4'6#+.'45

For full details, to register, and/or to find out how you can become a sponsor of the event, visit canadianjeweller.com or call us at 416-203-7900

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ENTER YOUR DESIGN NOW! Designer's Name:

(As you would like to have it appear if selected)

Company or Student Affiliation:

(As you would like to have it appear if selected)

Address: City:

Province:

Postal Code:

Phone:

Fax:

Email:

Website:

Category: Type of Jewellery:

Value of Design:

DESCRIBE THE PIECE, INCLUDING METAL USED AND KARAT VALUE, GEMSTONE TYPES, WEIGHTS, CUTS AND COLOURS. COMPLEX DESIGNS SHOULD BE ACCOMPANIED BY TECHNICAL DETAILS:

Enclosed is:

â?? MY FINISHED PIECE(S)

â?? MY ENTRY FEE OF $60 (Made out to Rive Gauche Media)

I understand the entry rules and regulations and abide by their terms. Signature: SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Canadian Jeweller Awards of Excellence, Rive Gauche Media, 920 Yonge St., Suite 610, Toronto, ON, M4W 3C7 RULES & REGULATIONS F /A/66/<C 7?=> 2+@/ ,//8 ./=318/. +8. 7+./ 38 +8+.+ F /A/66/<C 7?=> 38-9<:9<+>/ :</-39?= 7/>+6= +8. 7?=> +.2/</ >9 >2/ -<3>/<3+ =/> out in each category. F 66 1/7=>98/= 7?=> ,/ 8+>?<+6 #C8>2/>3-= +</ 89> :/<73>>/. #>?./8>= 7+C substitute CZ for diamonds. F 8/ =?,73==398 :/< ./=318/< :/< -+>/19<C F 98>/=>+8> +==?7/= +66 63+,363>C 09< ./=318= +8. 4/A/66/<C =?,73>>/. 6>29?12 A/ A366 >+5/ </+=98+,6/ :</-+?>398= A236/ >2/ 4/A/66/<C 3= 38 9?< :9==/==398 Canadian Jeweller Magazine -+889> ,/ </=:98=3,6/ 09< 38=?<381 >2/ 4/A/66/<C F '/ =?11/=> C9? /B>/8. C9?< 9A8 :963-C >9 -9@/< C9?< :3/-/ 9< :3/-/= 09< 69== theft or damage for the duration of the competition. F 8 /+-2 -+>/19<C >2<// G8+63=>= A366 ,/ =/6/->/. ?.1/= A366 >2/8 -299=/ +8 overall winner in each category. F 8><3/= A366 ,/ </>?<8/. ,C + -9?<3/< +> >2/ /B:/8=/ 90 >2/ ./=318/< $9 +<<+81/ for the return, please contact a Canadian Jeweller Magazine representative at 416 203-7900 x 6102. F '388381 /8><3/= +8. +66 3809<7+>398 :<9@3./. +,9?> >2/ /8><3/= 7+C ,/ ?=/. 09< promotional purposes. Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the designs, as well as press releases will also be used for this purpose.

F 8><3/= A366 ,/ 4?.1/. 98 >2/ ,+=3= 90 9<3138+63>C -</+>3@3>C ,/+?>C A/+<+,363>C and quality of workmanship. Consideration will also be given to marketability. F 98>/=>+8>= +1<// >9 296. Canadian Jeweller Magazine, Rive Gauche Media, and its employees and representatives, etc., harmless from any and all claims, litigation and other legal proceedings. JUDGING ?.1381 A366 >+5/ :6+-/ 38 ->9,/< ,C + :</=>3139?= :+8/6 90 4?.1/= 7+./ ?: 90 +8+.3+8 4/A/66/<C </>+36/<= ./=318/<= +8. 7/7,/<= 90 Canadian Jeweller Magazine’s .3>9<3+6 9+<. $2/ 4?.1381 :<9-/== 3= -98G./8>3+6 +8. >2/ 4?.1/= decision is final. PROMOTION Winners will be published in an issue of Canadian Jeweller Magazine and agree to their name being used in press releases, magazine articles, social media initiatives and on the Canadian Jeweller Magazine website. Once the results are formally announced, winners are free to self-promote their achievement.

Entry deadline is September 1st, 2017 at 5:00 p.m. awards-of-excellence-ad3.indd 79

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Last Word

Blossoming pride Celebrate the Canadian spirit with this subtly patriotic piece from Shelly Purdy Studio. This one-of-a-kind ring is made with 18-karat rose, yellow, and white gold, and features a stunning 2.01-carat, oval-cut Canadian diamond from Quebec’s Renard mine. An ornate fleur-de-lis design celebrates the centre stone’s French-Canadian heritage, while 28 small round diamonds add an extra touch of sparkle.

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CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Mirage Creations Inc. 221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4 Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677 www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com

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