Canadian Jeweller Magazine - March/April 2013 by Canadian Jeweller Magazine

S PEC IAL FE AT U RE: HOW V I C E NZ AORO 201 3 I S PROVIDING “ T HE FU T U RE , N OW ”

MARCH/APRIL 2013

PUBLICATIONS M A IL 40678000

60 BL O OR S T R E E T W E S T SU I T E 110 6 , T OR ON T O ON, M4W 3B8

$25

fo r th e b u s i n e s s of r e t a ili n g j ewe ll e r y s i n c e 1879

CMCA AUDITED

SIBLING REVELRY Jewel’s By Maxime’s, Calgary

YOU’D BETTER SWATCH OUT? Inside the brewing battle over Swiss watch movements

SCAN ME TO GO TO OUR WEBSITE

HIRE EDUCATION Who pays for training? EN FRANÇAIS

COMME VOUS L’AIMEZ CounterSketch ® par Stuller CMCA AUDITED

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24 Gold Group Ltd. Gold Dealer & Refining Company

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www.baselworld.com

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Showcase

your magnificent jewellery at these

world-class jewellery events

June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair One of Asia’s Top Three Fine Jewellery Events 20 - 23 June 2013 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

The World’s Number One Fine Jewellery Event 11 - 15 September 2013 AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong

13 - 17 September 2013 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2585 6179 / 2516 1677 Fax: (852) 3749 7319 Email: salesjgf-hk@ubm.com

www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

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A Stylish Showcase of the World’s Cutting-edge Designs Halls 3B & 3C • Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

THE WORLD’S NUMBER ONE FINE JEWELLERY EVENT September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair |13 – 17 Sep 2013

To exhibit, please contact: Sales Department, Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2585 6179 / 2516 1677 | Fax: (852) 3749 7319 Email: salesjgf-hk@ubm.com | Website: www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

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w w w.va l a n g i n . co m MONTRES SUISSE

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SWISS WATCHES

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CANAMEX

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August 11 - 12 - 13 2013

TORONTO

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EDMONTON

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The Ashley Anne Collection

27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca Made in Canada with Canadian gold

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Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all precious metals and also offer:

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs Incentive Programs • Co-op Advertising

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E S T A B L I S H E D 1 8 7 9 M A R C H /A P R I L 2 0 1 3 • VO L . 1 3 4 , N O . 3

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Lucy Holden Associate Publisher EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 • vol|. lucy@rivegauchemedia.com 132, no. 1

Erin Poredos Creative Business Coordinator | erin@gorgmgo.com

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Gary Butler Editorial Director | gary@gorgmgo.com lucy holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com

Irina Lytchak Editorial Coordinator | irina@gorgmgo.com

Carol besler Consulting Editor Paul aguirre AssociateSarah Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com Vincett Art Director | sarah@rivegauchemedia.com

Mat Wilson Graphic Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com

scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Elena Viltovskaia Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com Melanie Seth Controller & Operations | finance@gorgmgo.com stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com Henry Fonseca Finance Administrator | henry@gorgmgo.com Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com Melanie seth Controller & Operations | finance@rivegauchemedia.com sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com de Jesús, Veronique Dubé, Jeff Elliot, Sales | erin@gorgmgo.com C O N Erin T R IPoredos BU TOR S AssistantFrank

Nicole Fotheringham, John Lamont, Kelly Ross, Steven Schelling, Bonnie Siegler, Sarah O’Connor

CONtRibUtORs chris Davey, lorraine Depasque, Martin irving,

John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean MacKinnon, parker, lihn pham, Dean S A LDuncan ES Lucy Holden Associate publisher sanderson, bonnie siegler.

salEs lucy holden

Jeff Yamaguchi

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com AssociAte publisher Holly Fagan ext. Advertising sales tel . (416) 203-7900 6117 tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6134 email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com email holly@gorg mgo.com

ADVertisiNG sAles Yamaguchi Advertising sales tel .Jeff (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com

ADVertisiNG sAles tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126 C I R C U L A T I O N PUBLICATION PARTNERS email karolann@gorgmgo.com Garth Atkinson 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101 Pickering, Ontario L1V 1A1 CiRCUlatiON publicAtioN pArtNers toll free 1-877-547-2246 101cj@publicationpartners.com Garth atkinson 345 Kingston road, suite email pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1 toll free 1-877-547-2246 email cj@publicationpartners.com Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106 Toronto, Ontario M4W 3B8 tel. (416) 1106203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 head Office 60 bloor street West, suite toronto, ontario, M4W 3b8 2348 Lucerne, Suite 230 Office fax tel .Montreal (416) 203-7900 (416) 703-6392 Mont-Royal, Quebec H3R 2J8 tel. (514) fax (514) 381-6223 suite381-5196 1507 Montreal Office 555 chabanel street West, toll2J2 free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117 Montreal, Quebec, h2N

Karolann Cassman

tel .

(514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 1-888-358-8186 S U B S C R Iext. P T I6117 ON RATES

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Canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. subscription Rates

Check our Website for Monthly Specials! Phone 1.800.663.6472 Fax 1.800.316.2999 Email: Karat@Karatgroup.com www.karatimports.com

canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. unitedBulk statesrate — one year, us$205. Foreign one subscriptions) year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide is(Canada only, for six or— more — $17.50 per subscription per year. sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50 per subscription per year (canada only). CH A NGE OF A DDRESS

email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 Change of address or send your label and new addresstelephone: to Canadian Jeweller c/ofax: Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1 email:cover cj@publicationpartners.com 1-877-547-2246 905-509-0735 or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1 Published by

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Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.

Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

Canada Post Canadian Publications Product Agreement No. 40678000. The any publisher does not assume foradvertisement the contents of any canada post canadian publications Mail sales product AgreementMail No.Sales 40678000. the publisher does not assume responsibility for the responsibility contents of any andadvertisement; any and all any and all representations or warranties made in such are those the advertiser and not ofand the publisher. publisher is not liable to any advertiser anyadvertiser misprintsfor in advertising not the of the publisher representations or warranties made in advertising such advertising areofthose of the advertiser not of theThe publisher. the publisher is not liable tofor any any misprints in fault advertising not and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s notthe exceed of the publisher’s charge forexceed such advertising. Noofportion of this publication may be reproduced, allportion or in part, the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian the fault of the publisher and inliability such anshall event limitthe of amount the publisher’s liability shall not the amount the publisher’s charge for such advertising.inNo ofwithout this publication Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of thesubmissions publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions:electronic all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, text in electronic or hard copy format) be used by canadian Jeweller or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affi liates forwritten editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, may electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensaand their affiliates for editorial purposes any providing media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party such West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8. tion to, theinparty such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media,providing 60 Bloor Street material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

ANJEWELLER.COM H0 / A1P1R I L 2 0 w 1 3w w. | cWaWn Wa .dCiAaNnAjDeI w J a n u a r y / F eCJ b r uMaArRyC 2 e l l e r. c o m

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[FEATURES] MARCH/APRIL 2013 44. MALL IN THE FAMILY: JEWELS BY MAXIME’s There’s no sibling rivalry in the Reboh family, where a sister and two brothers run their business’s Calgary mall locations

64. SILVER STREAK: TI SENTO MILANO

76. FIRST IMPRESSIONS: dimples How a unique Mother’s Day gift became a jewellery line

78. TRAINING FEATURE What every jeweller needs to consider when it comes to hiring new employees and investing in their training

Celebrating the luxe jewellery manufacturer’s 10th anniversary

66. FROM HAIR TO ETERNITY: AUGENSTERN One diamond company’s new and truly unique approach toward creating lasting memories

68. MECHANICAL MAYHEM Examining the embattled Swiss watch movement landscape

72. THE SHINING FUTURE Trends identified during CJ’s visit to VicenzaOro, Italy’s most prestigious jewellery exhibit

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86.

METAL IN THE MIX Industry pros weigh in on mixed metal trends in timepieces

CJ en français: 51. Les nouvelles 58. AU PRINTEMPS DU FLEUVE AMOUR 60. COMME VOUS L’AIMEZ

www.canadianjeweller.com

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THERE’S MORE TO MEN’S JEWELLERY THAN MEETS THE WRIST

Guys today are looking for more in men’s jewellery than just wristwatches — and Stuller is here to help you give it to them with everything from stylish, trendsetting pieces to classic cufflinks, wedding bands, and more. All available in a range of contemporary and precious metals. In fact, we have the widest assortment of styles for men in the industry, in stock and ready to ship overnight, guaranteed. Call 800-877-7777, or visit stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.

From a vast selection of items online or in our catalogues.

Elements to customize your selection.

One-of-a-kind jewellery with CounterSketch® Studio or CAD.

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stuller.com

800 877 7777

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80 39

[DEPARTMENTS] MARCH/APRIL 2013 www.twitter.com/CJMag TM

20.

Letter from the EDITOR

24.

Product Showcase

32. star watch 34.

80. jvc feature #1: BEAUTY AND THE BEAT 82. JVC feature #2: 2012 ANNUAL crime REPORT 85. CJ INTERVIEW: jean-frederic dufour, zenith

who’s news

36. industry photos: HAMILTON, L’ORO, PANDORA

90. Showcase/marketplace

39.

98.

for the record

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www.twitter.com/CJM

Last word

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ste r lin g si lve r

FAMILY PENDANTS

Personalized to Celebrate order online We have a new address!

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www.cresce ndoj ewel l er y.co m 45 Lesmill Road | Toronto, ON | CANADA | M3B 2T8 | 1-800-387-0111

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letterfromtheeditor

Celebrating excellence As Canada’s oldest print publication, Canadian Jeweller is pleased to announce that in 2014 we will celebrate our 135th anniversary. This issue, we are honoured to present the following letter of congratulations from Prime Minister Stephen Harper. Olivier Felicio Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

I am pleased to extend my warmest greetings and congratulations to the readers and publishers of Canadian Jeweller Magazine, which next year marks its 135th anniversary. For over a century, your publication has provided designers, manufacturers, and consumers with unique and timely information on the art and craft of fine jewellery, fashion trends, and business developments in Canada and abroad. Canada is not only a leading source of precious metals and gemstones, it is also at the forefront of jewellery design, production, and retail. This milestone offers an opportunity to reflect on the history of your publication and the important role it has played in shaping a forward‐looking jewellery industry that is proud of its achievements. I would like to commend everyone involved in the production of Canadian Jeweller Magazine for your continued commitment to promoting this sector of our countryʹs economy. Please accept my best wishes for a memorable anniversary celebration and for every future success.

OTTAWA 2013

The Rt. Hon. Stephen Harper, P.C., M.P.

SCAN ME TO GO TO OUR WEBSITE

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thecontributors

JEFF ELLIOT T

NICOLE FOTHERINGHAM

BRYCE MEYER

SARAH O'CONNOR

A newspaper reporter and freelance magazine feature writer, Jeff Elliott lives on the tip of Newfoundland's Great Northern Peninsula. When he isn't writing, he spends his time drinking copious amounts of tea and trying to master the art of rural living.

Originally from South Africa where she started her career as a journalist for The Mercury newspaper, Nicole Fotheringham has traveled and worked all over the world including the Middle East, Asia and South America. She currently freelances for several magazines and newspapers from her home in Toronto, where she lives with her husband and a very bad dog.

As a freelance commercial, editorial and fine art photographer, Bryce Meyer is beyond versatile when it comes to his work. Based in Calgary, he has been published all over North America. His work can be found in many public, corporate and private collections around Canada and the U.S.

Frequent contributor Sarah O'Connor grew up in the GTA and lived on both coasts before settling in Ottawa. Her work as a freelance writer and editor focuses on business and lifestyle. Her favourite piece of jewellery is her engagement ring, which her husband custom-designed using an heirloom diamond.

Jeff explores the world of mixed metal watches for this issue on page 86.

Bryce shot this issueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cover and cover story on page 44.

Sarah examines the pros and cons of training new employees on page 78.

Nicole talks to Ti Sento in this issue's Designer Profile feature on page 64.

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Live precisely in the moment with Lady Precisionist.

Time is precious. It’s what you do with it that makes all the difference. Make the most of each moment with Lady Precisionist from Bulova— the world’s most accurate watch designed with a continuously sweeping second hand.

www.bulova.com

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productshowcase

1. Individual Expression: ATLANTIC ENGRAVING For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry leader and, as third-generation jewellers, has taken the ultimate symbol of commitment

3. Sheer Simplicity: BEST BARGAINS

beyond the wedding band and classic eternity ring. Featuring coloured

Simple, elegant and multi-purpose, these classic earrings are one of Best

metals and unique finishes, an Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality.

Bargains’ most popular sellers. The gorgeous 14k gold pair is hand-made

Each ring produced is made of seamless tubing and cut with diamond-

and features cabachon smokey quartz accented by checker board-cut

tipped tools on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery; no ring

smokey quartz. They are available in several colours: amethyst, citrine, blue

leaves the factory without extensive quality control. Available in 10k, 14k,

topaz and Lapis, and can be customized to taste. $900.00

18k, 19k, platinum & sterling silver. 4. Smooth timing: Zeades 2. YOUR CLIENTS CAN NOW BE A DIAMOND: AUGENSTERN

Zeades Monte Carlo is presenting a unique concept for ladies and gentlemen

Augenstern manufactures diamonds using the carbon from the hair of your

based on the use of genuine Italian leather at the heart of our collections of

clients or from the hair of their dearest loved ones. An Augenstern Hair

jewellery, watches and accessories, designed in the prestigious principality

diamond is the perfect product to commemorate a very special moment

of Monaco. Classic and contemporary meet in Metropolis, the newest

in life, like a wedding or the arrival of a new baby. Children can seal their

arrival in the ZEADES men’s Offshore collection. Inspired by the smooth

bond within an Augenstern Hair Diamond by combining their hair carbon

understated favourites among ’60s and ’70s watches, the new timepiece

to offer their parents a unique piece of diamond jewellery. [See this issue’s

combines all the comfort, design innovation and complications inherent in

Company Profile, page 66]

contemporary watchmaking.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

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Dare to be Canadian

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J Promise

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Our Promise

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productshowcase

1 2

1. make the grade: E.G.M. EGM is an established and respected gemmology school. At EGM, complete your studies in gemmology in six months or as an ODL (Open Distance Learning) student and earn the prestigious internationally recognized title of FGA (Fellow

3. interactive diamonds: GIA 4Cs App – Retailer Edition for iPad

of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain, Gem-A). Broaden your

GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers

employment opportunities with an EGM Gem & Jewellery Appraisal diploma

in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used

and discover the fascinating world of rough diamond grading and valuation.

at point-of-sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate

egmschool.com, 514-844-0024

customers about how GIA grades colour, clarity, cut and carat weight and how grades affect a diamond’s value. The app also explains the origins of the

2. Dress it up: MEN’S BULOVA PRECISIONIST watches

carat system, provides information about fluorescence, diamond treatments

Building on the incredible success of the sport models, Bulova is proud to

and synthetics, and features direct access to GIA Report Check – GIA’s online

add a “dress” version in 2013 with the introduction of the WILTON collection.

database of GIA reports, where contents of a GIA report can be viewed and

In addition to being the world’s most accurate watch with a continuously

verified directly from the iPad.

sweeping second hand, these handsome dress chronograph timepieces feature 1/1,000 second precision over a 12-hour timeframe and are accurate

4. quality and custom care: CRESCENDO

globally to within 10-seconds a year. This Precisionist Chronograph features

This Canadian-made, two tone gold and 0.68 ctw diamond pendant is

a stainless steel case, black leather strap and is water resistant to 50 meters.

available for online order. Visit our website to browse our complete collection

Model: 96B182. $650

of gold, silver and platinum jewellery. crescendojewellery.com

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www.canadianjeweller.com

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2013-02-05 11:38 AM

productshowcase

1. classic pearls: Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company The Pearls of Wisdom jewellery care brochure is offered by Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company. Featuring tips to help customers keep their jewellery safe and sparkling, it makes a great leave-behind! Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also downloadable for websites. 800-558-6411, ext. 2118

3. a girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best friend: Nova Diamonds A lady can always use another pair of diamonds. Nova Diamonds double

2. Change your Pop, change a life: KAMELEON JEWELRY

teardrop earrings should be that pair. This brilliant set features 18K white

Soon to be released - Karma Pops from Kameleon Jewelry! $5 from the sale

gold and almost 9 cts of VS-SI clarity E and F colour white diamonds.

of each Pop will be donated to KLEO, a registered charity helping the Karen

$26,225; 416.868.6682 Ref: ER8-1470

people of Thailand overcome economical, language and social barriers through education. kleosupportgroup.org

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www.canadianjeweller.com

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1913

1918

1935

1936

1939

1940 1952 1955 1970 1997 2013 100 years is a good start. From a small group of jewellers looking to create better insurance for their businesses to the North American jewellery industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trusted protector and advisor. It has been an outstanding century for our members. And our next century looks â&#x20AC;Ś brilliant. Learn more about the 100th anniversary of Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company at JewelersMutual.com/history.

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productshowcase

Showcase

your magnificent jewellery at these

world-class jewellery events

June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair One of Asia’s Top Three Fine Jewellery Events

20 - 23 June 2013 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

The World’s Number One Fine Jewellery Event 11 - 15 September 2013 AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong

13 - 17 September 2013 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2585 6179 / 2516 1677 Fax: (852) 3749 7319 Email: salesjgf-hk@ubm.com

www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

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04/02/2013 3:20 PM

1. PRETTY IN PINK: STULLER

3. LET THE SUNSHINE IN: TI SENTO

Give your mom something to smile about this Mother’s Day with rose gold

The Porto di Portofino Layered Necklace is sterling silver featuring two

designs from Stuller. Choose from a variety of both contemporary and

delicate, layered chains. It is finished with round-cut, yellow gold-plated

classic styles at affordable price points – many available for overnight

cubic zirconia coloured stones in bright peach, cat’s eye orange and

delivery. stuller.com, 866-815-5511

translucent orange. $565.00 [see this issue’s Designer Profile, page 64]

2. PASTEL PANCHE: ELLE JEWELRY

4. EAST MEETS WEST: HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR

This spring, celebrate the newest in fashion trends with our ELLE Jewelry

The June and September editions of the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem fair

“Sugar Melon” Collection. Sorbet pastels in soft hues of rose, grey,

serve as a comprehensive platform to advocate the jewellery trade every year.

blue and green are the focus of this new line, with special emphasis on

A strong track record of excellence has made both events a prominent fixture

semi-precious stones, such as rose quartz, grey agate, blue lace and

in the global jewellery trade’s event calendar. Save the date and plan your visit

Chinese amazonite.

now. jewellerynetasia.com

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13-03-12 5:28 PM

Best Bargains

CELEBRATING CELEBRATING

for Valentine’s: off all orders overas $500 Thank you Sweetheart to all of YOU deal for making us 2012’sReceive Women5% Exporter of Ontario selected by OWIT. only untilongoing February 28th, 2013.loyalty and kindness. We are grateful for your support,

YEARS YEARS

IN IN THE THE SHOW SHOW BUSINESS BUSINESS

Package 201: Genuine Genuine Gemstone Gemstone and and Fresh Fresh

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with with 6x4mm 6x4mm Gemstones Gemstones and and White White Sapphires: Sapphires: a. a. Amethyst, Amethyst, b. b. Blue Blue Topaz, Topaz, c.c. Opal, Opal, d. d. Aquamarine, Aquamarine, e. e. Citrine, Citrine, f.f. Garnet, Garnet, g. g. Ruby, Ruby, && h. h. Peridot Peridot a. a.

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Package 751: 10kt. 10kt. Gold Gold Earrings, Earrings, set set with with

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Package 784: 10kt. 10kt. Gold Gold Ring, Ring, set set with with 22 Diamonds Diamonds && 6x4 6x4 gemstones: gemstones: a. a. Garnet, Garnet, b. b. Amethyst, Amethyst, c.c. Ruby, Ruby, d. d. Aquamarine, Aquamarine, e. e. Blue Blue Topaz, Topaz, f.f. Emerald, Emerald, g. g. Sapphire, Sapphire, h. h. Citrine Citrine a. a.

Package 812: 10kt. 10kt. Y/W Y/W Gold Gold Bracelets Bracelets

accented by by 22 Dia. Dia. && 10 10 Gemstones Gemstones (5x3mm): (5x3mm): accented a. a. Ruby, Ruby, b. b. Tanzanite, Tanzanite, c.c. Emerald, Emerald, d. d. Sapphire Sapphire

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2013-03-12 6:50 PM

starwatch

ST A N D

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R EG A RDLE S S OF PER FOR M A NCE S , W I N N ER S A N D R ATI NG S , AWA R D SHOWS A LWAYS PROV IDE G OS SIP-WORT HY R ED C A R PET E N T ERTA I N ME N T. SEEI NG THE L AT E ST I N CELEB FA SHION A N D JE W EL L ERY IS E NOUGH TO M A K E A N YON E T U N E I N A N D STA RT TA LK I NG. HER E A R E A FE W R ECE N T STA R AC CE S S ORY SHOW I NG S .

At the 40th American Music Awards (AMAs) held in Los Angeles, Canadian native ELISHA CUTHBERT chose to accessorize with sparkle. She wore a pair of “Sevilla” Carrera y Carrera 18k yellow gold drop earrings with diamonds ($11,700) along with Brumani’s “Balaika” 18k white and yellow gold ring with morganite topaz and diamonds ($3,487).

Also at the AMAs was stunner, J E N N Y MC C A RT H Y, who paired a Le Vian 18k chocolate gold ring with vanilla diamonds ($17,348) along with a Demarco 18k gold snake ring featuring 2.7cts of white diamonds, 1.19cts of mixed diamonds and 0.02cts of green diamonds ($10,800).

At the CMT Artists of the Year Awards in Franklin, Tennessee, Nashville star H A Y DE N PA N E T T I E R E stood out in Sutra 18k gold, diamond and turquoise earrings ($14,000).

SELENA GOMEZ attended the 22nd-Annual Glamour Women of the Year Awards held in New York City wearing Le Vian amethyst and diamond earrings ($1,748).

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who’snews

PEOPLE MAKING HEADLINES IN OUR INDUSTRY

family. Cohen will assume the position of senior vice president of global real estate and construction. Collyer has been appointed as senior vice president of global human resources.

LVMH taps Tag Heuer head for Bulgari Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton S.A. (LVMH) has named Jean-Christophe Babin, the head of its Tag Heuer watch unit since 2000, to assume control of the Bulgari jewellery business. This decision was made during a recent reorganization of management following the December departure of the manager of its Louis Vuitton brand.

Eli Izhakoff

Eli Izhakoff Resigns as head of World Diamond Council On June 30, CEO and chair of World Diamond Council (WDC) Eli Izhakoff will leave his position of 13 years. The group was headed by Izhakoff, which acted as the trade to the Kimberly Process since its founding in 2000. He announced his decision to resign in May 2012, to the WDC board. “It’s been a tremendous responsibility, a lot of hard work, and there were a lot of uphill battles,” Izhakoff tells JCK. “I enjoyed it, but I’m happy to move on. The conflict diamond issue is much less stinging today than it was, and we have largely put it to rest.”

At press time, no replacement had been announced.

Claire’s: new North American president After serving as executive vice president for Sam’s Club of Walmart Corp., Linda Hefner Filler steps in to take the post of the new North American president of Claire’s. Peter Collyer and Holly Cohen are also appointed to new positions within the Claire’s

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World-renowned gemologist and International Colored Gemstone Association member Gerald David Sisk Jr. has passed away. Sisk co-founded Jewellery Television (JTV). In April 2012, Jewelers Circular Keystone magazine’s “Gem and Gemology” list named him the fourth-mostinfluential person. Beyond his career, Sisk loved music and actively supported the arts. He was a past president of the Knoxville Opera Company and a former board member of the Knoxville Symphony.

Folli Follie Group: new managing director Greek jeweller Folli Follie Group, which owns the Links of London brand, introduced Declan Delanty as its new managing director. A certified public accountant, Delanty’s retail experience includes Arnotts, Brown Thomas Group and BWG.

AGTA names new marketing manager

Forevermark: three new sales managers

“Danielle has done a remarkable job as marketing coordinator. She is the ideal person to take on this role,” says AGTA CEO Douglas Hucker. “We have rigorous plans for promoting our members’ businesses in the coming year; those plans are in good hands with Danielle.” { C J }

Forevermark has expanded its sales force with the addition of three new sales managers, Kristyn Beausoleil (mid-Atlantic region), Natalie Humphrey (New England region), and Sam Panasiuk (Western region). All three hires have held previous positions in the diamond industry.

Jeanne B. Daniel joins Gemvara Izhakoff says that although he plans to stay active with the WDC until the summer, he will be providing support only “from the outside” once he resigns.

In Memoriam: Gerald Sisk of International Colored Gemstone Association

Former Tiffany & Co. VP Jeanne B. Daniel has been elected to join Gemvara’s board of directors. Daniel’s resume spans more than 30 years, including experience with Giorgio Armani, Fossil and Carelle. In the spring of 2009, Daniel launched her own company, bella tu, a women’s clothing line that specializes in ancient Indianinspired tops and tunics.

Danielle Pelletiere, previously marketing and sales coordinator for the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), has assumed the role of marketing manager. Pelletiere takes over for Adam Graham, who has since left.

Daniel

eti le Pell

ere

Janet Holian, CEO of Gemvara, says, “Jeanne is a highly experienced and creative jewellery merchant... Her experience leading within a startup environment, as well as succeeding as a senior executive within the Tiffany brand, is extremely unusual and valuable to our growing company.”

www.canadianjeweller.com

13-03-12 3:52 PM

PRECIOUS

LEATHER www.zeades.com

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1 1 . P ETE M c LEO D , CANA D IAN P RO F ESSIONAL AERO B ATIC P ILOT 2 . TI F F B ELL LI G H T B OX 3 . D IS P LA Y F EATURIN G T H E VENTURA WATC H WORN B Y ELVIS P RESLE Y IN 1 9 6 1 F ILM B L U E H A W A I I 4 . MO D EL H AMILTON A I R P L A N E 5 . A TRI B UTE TO SOME O F H AMILTON ’ S STAN D OUT P IECES

H a m i lt on u n v e i l s l at e s t wa t c h l i n e a t e x c l u s i v e Toron to e v e n t In February, Hamilton Watch Company held an impressive showcase of its classic timepieces in addition to unveiling a new line of watch models at a special Toronto event. The leading watch brand celebrated its extensive partnership with Hollywood by hosting the event at the city’s Mecca for movie watching, the TIFF Bell Lightbox. Hamilton watches have appeared in over 400 films over the past 60 years, including 2001: A Space Odyssey, A Beautiful Mind and the “Men in Black” series. The event also previewed a number of the brand’s latest watch models, some of which will be officially unveiled to the public at Baselworld 2013. One of the newest models includes a detailed and beautifully designed skeleton movement. Guests of the event had the opportunity to meet with one of the brand’s ambassadors, Pete McLeod, a professional Canadian aerobatic pilot racer and Hamilton timepiece enthusiast. { C J }

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1 1 . J or n W e r d e l i n , c o - f o u n d e r o f L i n d e W e r d e l i n 2 . g u e s t s m i n g l e a t b lo w f i s h i n T oro n to 3 . i n s tr u m e n t s a tt a c h d i r e c tl y to t h e w a t c h ; t h e ro c k f or l a n d u s e a n d t h e r e e f f or u n d e r w a t e r u s e 4 . b lo w f i s h , t h e s e tt i n g f or l i n d e w e r d e l i n ’ s e x c l u s i v e w a t c h p r e v i e w 5 . l i n d e w e r d e l i n s i d e s p e e d s t e e l a n d a c c e s s or i e s 6 . s h o w c a s e o f a n e w l i n d e w e r d e l i n w a t c h

L’ O R O J e w e ll e r y u n v e i l s L i n de W e rde l i n i n T oro n to L’ORO Jewellery, a fine jewellery and watch retailer, was the host of a special night at Blowfish Restaurant in downtown Toronto by way of introducing Linde Werdelin Watches and Instruments to the Canadian market. On hand for the evening was Haigo Derian, vice president of L’ORO, and Jorn Werdelin, who showcased the entire collection for the very first time in Canada. Industry insiders were able to preview Linde Werdelin’s assortment of watches and instrument attachments, some of the most advanced digital technology on the market today. “Our products are distinguished by an equal focus on craftsmanship and design without considering the traditional marketing aspect of the industry,” explains Jorn Werdelin. “This really allows Morten [Linde] and I to solely concentrate on the product; making it very pure.” { C J }

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1 . s p r i n g -t h e m e d pa n d o r a d i s p l a y 2 . c o l l e c t i o n o f f l o r a - i n s p i r e d r i n g s 3 . l a t e s t s t y l e s i n p a n d o r a ’ s w r a p a n d c h a r m b r a c e l e t s 4 . f e a t u r e d MODEL a r t 5 . t r u m p h o t e l s e r v e d a s s e t t i n g f o r pa n d o r a’ s s p r i n g l au n c h

Pa n d o r a u n v e i l s spr i ng 2 013 c ol l e c t ion i n Toron to To reveal its newest collections and jewellery pieces, Pandora hosted an exclusive event for industry professionals at the prestigious Trump International Hotel & Tower in Toronto. Pandora’s spring line accents the Orient, femininity, flora and sophistication, with cherry blossoms serving as the star inspiration driving the entire collection. In a statement from the brand, Pandora says it is encouraging its wearers to “explore the beauty of spring with this season’s cherry blossom jewellery. Flourishing in 14k gold and sterling silver, milky white Murano glass charms and sparkling pink pave charms parade the delicate and enduring beauty of cherry blossoms. Tell your story with the ever-changing splendour of this flower, signifying the evolution and individuality of every Pandora woman.” { C J }

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NEWS / TRENDS / EVENTS C A N A D I A N S W I S S WAT C H I M P O R T S U P N I N E P E R C E N T; S W I T Z E R L A N D R E A C H E S R E C O R D TRADE SURPLUS FOR 2012 It has been reported that Canadian imports of Swiss watches increased by nine per cent in 2012, proving that the Swiss economy substantially continues to rely on the success of watchmaking and the profit it brings. In terms of exports, Switzerland’s top three included watches, food and pharmaceuticals. The most profitable Swiss watchmaker, the Swatch Group, announced its growth from SFr 1 billion in 2012 to SFr 8.1 billion. Altogether, Switzerland remains relatively unaffected by the weak global economy and pressure on the franc. Swiss trade has hit a new record surplus of SFr 24.4 billion for 2012.

J A N E W Y O R K W I N T E R S H O W F E AT U R E D CANADIAN COMPANIES

celebrate its 275th anniversary. An exceptional brand, Droz focuses on creating time-tellers with a visual personality — a trademark that began with designs by founder Pierre Jaquet Droz himself. Petite Heure Minute Relief Dragon and The Eclipse Onyx were two of the five stunning watches unveiled at Baselworld 2012.

The Javits Convention Center in New York City hosted this year’s JA New York Winter Show from February 24 to 26. JA New York showcased a refined selection of the industry’s brands, designers and suppliers, featuring more than 550 vendors. A jewellery professional destination, JA New York also strives to be the impetus for change in the financial success of its buyers with free educational programs presented by Jewelers of America. This year’s exhibit included Canadian companies like Mindham Fine Jewellery and Hamilton Jewellers.

Footwear and accessories brand Steve Madden has teamed up with Haskell Jewels & Timepieces to create a women’s fashion jewellery and watch collection. The new line is set to launch in the fall of 2013.

J A Q U E T D R O Z C E L E B R AT E S 2 7 5 Y E A R S O F L U X U R I O U S WAT C H M A K I N G

DECEMBER 2012 REPORTED MOST ACTIVE MONTH FOR JEWELLERY SITES

Continually ranked among the finest Swiss watch-makers, Jaquet Droz will this year

Traffic figures soared on retail websites in the month of December 2012, with a focus on

STEVE MADDEN TO LAUNCH JEWELLERY LINE

OMEGA LAUNCHES LIMITED EDITION PLANET OCEAN IN COMMEMORATION OF SOCHI 2014 OLYMPIC GAMES Known for exclusive underwater timepieces, OMEGA continues the tradition with its recent launch of a limited edition Planet Ocean wristwatch for the Sochi 2014 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games in Russia. For their 26th year of duty as Official Timekeeper with the Olympic Games, OMEGA has designed two special editions of its Seamaster Planet Ocean watch, in men’s and women’s versions. In addition to the Olympic Games wristwatches, OMEGA President Stephen Urquhart and International Olympic Committee President Jacques Rogge have unveiled nine OMEGA Countdown Clocks across Russia. OMEGA’s timekeeping duty will continue just as it had started in 1932, serving the tradition and culture of the world’s finest athletes.

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jewellery and luxury products. Media Metrix reports that nine out of ten users purchased merchandise online. Ranked at number four, jewellery/luxury goods beat out other types of sites being visited including business/finance and flowers/greetings. In terms of retail sites, eBay scored 13th, followed by others including Wal-Mart, Target and Sears. Jewellery and watches were among the top five categories of compelling growth. In general, Google sites scored as the prime property in December, with 191 million visitors followed by others including Microsoft, Facebook and Amazon.

RIO T IN T O T O E X P E C T DE A DL INE DEL AYS AT A RGY L E A controller of several diamond mines in Canada, Rio Tinto has given notice to a large number of workers in West Australia. While Rio discharges up to 350 contractors at Argyle, deadlines for the company’s projects are being pushed back.

SWATCH GROUP’S SALES SOAR IN 2012 The Swatch Group announced that its net income rose by 26 per cent, to reach $1.78 billion in 2012. In 2013 and beyond, healthy advancements will persist for the Swiss watch industry and the Swatch Group, as reported by the company. Swatch emphasized that ongoing progress during the month of January confirmed a favourable perspective for 2013, and predicted growth this year anywhere from five to ten per cent.

G U C C I PAY S T R I B U T E T O T H E R E C O R D I N G ACADEMY WITH NEW TIMEPIECE DESIGN On the occasion of the 55th Annual Grammy Awards, and to honour the third year of partnership with The Recording Academy, Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry introduced a new watch to the Gucci Grammy collection. Back in 2010, Gucci signed a three-year partnership with the National Academy of Recording Arts and Sciences, which organizes the Grammy

was launched in the southern city of Bengaluru This past month, the Swiss watchmaker claimed in January 2011; since that time, it has expanded that its gross sales soared 14 per cent to $8.94 into several cities across the country. billion, surpassing its goal of $8.78 billion. Forevermark announced its partnership with FOREVERMARK PL ANS TO REACH 130 STORES IN INDIA Mumbai-based Kundan Jewellers. “We are The De Beers Group diamond brand Forevermark glad to associate with Kundan Jewellers in is planning to expand in India. “We are now present Mumbai as they share a mutual passion for in about 85 doors across India. Our plan is to be in diamonds and understand the intricacies of around 130 doors by the end of 2013,” says Sachin craftsmanship,” said Jain. Jain, the managing director of Forevermark India.

SALES AMALGAMATION: GEMVISION AND STULLER De Beers first launched Forevermark in 2008 in Gemvision and Stuller have combined Hong Kong, China and Japan. In India, the brand their respective sales teams into a single

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Awards, and launched a Gucci Grammy Collection. The new watch is a variant of the Interlocking G, featuring a thick, black leather cuff, the Gucci logo and a symbolic gramophone pin. Gucci has also announced its support of the Grammy Camp, a special summer program for young music students from around the world.

organization. The move is meant to better serve their clientele. “We’re excited to welcome the Gemvision folks to our sales team,” says Bob Cox, vice president of business development at Stuller. “They bring a valuable and unique perspective with regards to technology and innovation into the mix. “Combining these two expert teams means more personalized, convenient service for our customers,” he says. “With a united force of 11 regional sales directors, we will continue to ‘wow’ our jewellers by offering the best in products, technology and business solutions.”

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13-03-12 6:44 PM

fortherecord JVC RELEASES ANNUAL CRIME REPORT FOR 2012

SOTHEBY’S WATCH AUCTION SALES: NEW RECORD FOR 2012

The total dollar losses reported to Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) has grown from $10.1 million in 2011 to $14.5 million in 2012.

Sotheby’s reported that the company’s international watch and clock sales brought in $85 million for 2012, a 43 per cent increase compared to 2011 and a new record for the auction house. Sotheby’s sales for North America alone increased by 83 per cent from 2011 to 2012 to reach $26.5 million, while in Europe sales reached $30.3 million and in Asia they were up to $28.3 million.

Jewellery crime professionals suggest that internal theft may be playing a larger role in these increases in comparison to external. While the amount of incidents increases, Ontario, British Columbia and Alberta remain the top three provinces for jewellery theft.

One of the major sales for North America in 2012 included the Duc d’Orléans Breguet Sympathique clock [pictured, left].

It is difficult to provide exact figures regarding Canadian jewellery crime because, per JVC’s disclaimer, many jewellers do not report theft , meaning that estimated numbers may be higher. For more information and statistics, see this issue’s JVC report on page 82.

“With the reconstruction of the department, we have seen tremendous and unprecedented growth in the company’s watch and clock auction as well as private-sale business, with recordbreaking results in Honk Kong, New York and London, and clients participating from nearly 70 countries around the world,” said Tom Bourne, Sotheby’s worldwide head of watches.

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T ORON T O-B A SED ME JURI W IN S IN T ERN AT ION A L S TA R T UP F E S T I VA L’S E L E VAT OR WORL D T OUR Mejuri, a Toronto-based fine jewellery startup, won first place at the recent Elevator World Tour event, held at Toronto’s CN Tower. The competition is part of the International Startup Festival, which takes place every July in Montreal. This year marks Toronto’s first Elevator World Tour event; it drew over 100 international startup companies to pitch their ideas to investors while taking a one-minute elevator ride overlooking the city. Mejuri is a website that connects

jewellery aficionados and jewellery designers. Designers submit their plans, and would-be customers vote to determine which ones are produced. The innovative website was founded by Jordanian-born Noura Sakkijha and her husband, Majed Masad. The duo met attending the Ted Rogers School of Business at Ryerson University while studying for their MBAs.

SCOTT KAY TO EXHIBIT AT LUXURY AND JCK LAS VEGAS 2013 In addition to its 2,500-strong list of exhibitors, JCK Las Vegas 2013 has announced that it will host work from the high-end bridal jewellery designer Scott Kay. Pieces will also be included in JCK’s exclusive LUXURY event running from May 28 to June 3 in Las Vegas at the Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino. “I decided to showcase our work at LUXURY and JCK for quite a few reasons. JCK’s range of retailers and merchants fits the growing dynamics of where our industry is moving,” says Scott Kay. WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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“Some of the best, most knowledgeable jewelers attend JCK for raw materials and these are the people I am trying to engage: those looking for the real, unique craft of jewellery.”

BED BAT H & BE YOND JOINS T HE JE W EL L ERY SE C T OR American home furnishing retailer Bed Bath & Beyond has introduced a new product to its shelves: jewellery. Over the past year, the company has been working on its Bed Bath & Beyond Fine Jewelry Collection, which will be sold in 1,400 locations across Canada and the U.S. The collection has already made its debut on the Bed Bath & Beyond website, showcasing Twilight-inspired jewellery and a variety of diamond and pearl designs from Badgley Mischka, Honora, J. Goodman, Lego, Trollbeads and Ze.

K A RL L AGERF EL D DEBU T S NE W WAT CH COL L E C T ION IN C OL L A B OR AT ION W I T H F O S S IL Famous for his collaborations with high- and low-end brands, Karl Lagerfeld recently paired up with Fossil to launch a new collection of watches, sold exclusively in Canada. The collection officially became available on February 28, online and in stores at The Bay, with prices ranging from $180 to $695. Iconic and edgy, the timepieces represent the designer’s modern visions and are available in a variety of colours and sizes. In classic Lagerfeld fashion, the watches are bold, using leather, pyramid studs and chain bracelets. The collection of versatile pieces is comprised of seven platforms and is showcased in limited edition packaging featuring engraved

case backs, exclusive to the initial launch of the product.

JIMM Y CRYS TA L NE W YORK P ROMO T E S I T S L INE IN T HE C A N A DI A N M A RK E T Founded in 1991, Jimmy Crystal New York is known for its one-of-a-kind Swarovski crystal creations. The brand has been a part of the Canadian market for over one year now and is now set to expand across the country. While carrying a range of jewellery, watch, sunglass and pen products, Jimmy Crystal continues to add fresher pieces to its existing lines. Jimmy Crystal’s collections are currently retailed in boutiques across the United States, Canada, Italy, Spain, Germany and Dubai, among other international marketplaces. For more information visit jimmycrystal.com.

BIJOUTERIE ITALIENNE UPDATES IN-STORE LUXE SHOWCASE Bijouterie Italienne, a fine jewellery retailer based in Montreal, has given one of its luxury brands, Baume & Mercier, an update in sync with the brand’s latest collections. The Quebec store’s Baume & Mercier showcase has been revived with the watch brand’s newest line, The Hampton Collection. For inspiration, Baume & Mercier turned to the Hamptons on Long Island, New York, where the seaside lifestyle reigns supreme. The cutting-edge collection was designed specifically for those that “appreciate the charms of discrete luxury.”

FORBES GALLERIES SHOWCASE FOUR CANADIAN JEWELLERS From March 16 to September 7, The Forbes Galleries in New York City are exhibiting a unique collection of outer space-inspired jewellery. Elyse Zorn Karlin, co-director of The Association for the Study of Jewellery and Related Arts, LLC (ASJRA), has curated the show with a focus on the intersection between the beauty of space and adornment. The “Out of this World! Jewellery in the Space Age” exhibit will showcase pieces from four Canadians

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amidst 100 participating jewellery designers and lenders. The exhibit’s stand out jewellery pieces include The Kinetic Ring — INFINITY [pictured, right] by Claudio Pino, a Canadian designer. Jewellery themed around Haley’s Comet, Sputnik and other historical space objects will also be featured, along with vintage memorabilia and space-related art. Other Canadian jewellers being featured include Niki Kavakonis, Dan Cormier and Janis Kerman.

TW STEEL ANNOUNCED AS OFFICIAL TIMING PARTNER TO SAHARA FORCE INDIA FORMULA ONE TEAM TW Steel has announced a multi-year partnership whereby it becomes the Official Timing Partner of the Sahara Force India Formula One Team. The announcement was made at a launch held at the Silverstone Circuit in England. TW Steel’s famed ‘two-dots’ logo, which is intentionally symbolic of ‘The Watch in Steel,’ will be displayed throughout major brand platforms with Sahara Force India. Jor d y C ob elen s , T W S t e el C E O a nd R ob er t Fer n le y, S a h a r a F o r c e I n d i a D e p u t y Te a m P r i n c i p a l

The watch brand will also manufacture an official team watch, distributed through more than 6,000 retail outlets that carry the brand in over 100 countries. “We’re naturally very excited to be partnering with Sahara Force India,” says TW Steel CEO and co-owner, Jordy Cobelens. “We know the merits of being involved with a team competing in Formula One and the brand awareness that it brings. Our new partnership represents a relationship where both parties are keen to bring success to each other.” The Formula One 2013 season kicks off in Melbourne, starting with this spring’s Australian Grand Prix.

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Mall in the family

At the strategically selected Calgary mall locations of Jewels by Maximeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, three siblings carry on a legacy started by their parents

B y F r a n k d e J e s u s â&#x20AC;˘ P H O T O G RA P H Y B Y B r y c e M e y e r

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Dav id, Dalia and Matthew Reboh

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hen an enterprise is successful, the independent business owner hopes for an heir apparent to one day take the reigns. In the jewellery trade this is a time-honoured tradition — for one child, sometimes two. In the rare case of Maxime Reboh, all three children became benefactors and caretakers of the family business: Jewels By Maxime’s.

The BEAUT Y ABOUT THE BUSINESS Maxime Reboh learned goldsmithing from his jeweller grandfather. He and his wife Patricia founded Jewels By Maxime’s in 1978. Prior to that, the couple operated a fashion boutique where, in addition to selling clothing, Maxime would design jewellery on the side (for other stores). As his son Matthew Reboh remembers, “They abandoned clothing and never looked back. It was the biggest and best decision my parents ever made. “The beauty about the jewellery business is that a ring that goes out of style can be melted down and made into something new. But in the fashion business, that expensive designer dress that doesn’t sell

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just becomes stock that you are stuck with — it might as well be used as a tablecloth.” Perhaps Maxime Reboh’s third-best decision — the second-best decision being the transfer of his company to his children —was focussing on brand recognition before it was trendy to do so. “Twenty years ago, no one cared about brands like the ones advertised in Vogue or InStyle, like they do now,” says Matthew. The Rebohs were truly early adopters in terms of stocking designer jewellery brands. When the first Jewels By Maxime’s opened, the store carried only custom jewellery; about sixteen years ago, Maxime’s added designer lines; they started with Tacori and Simon G., which comprised fifteen per cent of their stock. Today, the Maxime’s stock is 85 per cent designer jewellery. “Brands are what people want. We are very lucky to exclusively carry Scott Kay, Simon G. and Tacori,” says Matthew. “In a city like Calgary, exclusivity is rare — and those brands have stayed true to us. We do about 85 per cent designer bridal and the rest is custom.”

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Passing the torch When Maxime and Patricia Reboh retired, the business smoothly transitioned to their three children, Matthew, David and Dalia. “The great thing is that we were never expected to be a part of it or forced into it — it’s just one of those things where you help out at a young age and develop a passion,” says Matthew. “It’s great: I have a brother and sister in the same business! None of us went our own way! We had the passion that our parents had and we all decided to stay in jewellery. We’re very happy that we did.”

“We had the passion that our parents had and we all decided to stay in jewellery. We’re very happy that we did.”

Each sibling enjoys a distinct role within the company. “I do all the networking, PR and marketing, and I go to charity galas and events,” says Matthew. “David is not as much of a people person and doesn’t like sales-related tasks, so he took on my dad’s trade and does a lot of our jewellery. He’s one of our master goldsmiths and jewellers; he sits on the bench and does a lot of the repairs and custom work, along with the accounting. Dalia is also great with design and is a fantastic artist. (I don’t have an artistic bone in my body.) She’s a painter and when customers come in with an idea in mind, she can put it to paper and make it happen.”

Like father, like CHILDREN

All three Reboh children studied at the Gemology Institute of America, in California. Matthew focused on business while his brother and sister took courses in jewellery design. Their parents

The Reboh siblings continue the traditions started by their father, yet still keep an eye towards the future. Attention to detail in everything from location to customer service and brand recognition are what keep Jewels By Maxime’s going strong. They operate two

no longer have maintain any involvement, having left the business in their children’s capable hands. “They’ll maybe come in for a week or so during Christmas-time just to say hi to customers they know come back every year. Other than that, they’re not in the store throughout the year,” says Matthew.

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stores in Calgary’s top malls: one location in the Chinook Centre and the other in Market Mall. “We believe in malls. A lot of high-end jewellers focus on being free-standing but in the US all of the highend retailers are in malls,” says Matthew. “We mirror our business on what the big players are doing. The reality is that malls bring people to you. It’s up to us to go from there. The traffic pays off despite the high cost of rent.”

Of course, customer service is a top priority for the Rebohs. Jewels By Maxime’s offers complementary lifetime service. “Diamonds and jewellery are expensive,” says Matthew. “Our belief is that when that kind of money is spent on a ring, it’s petty to charge for changing the band size, adding a diamond, plating... So, we don’t charge for anything. Everything is covered.

TREATED LIKE ROYALT Y

“When you buy a ring from us, your fiancée is treated like royalty. If she comes in to have her ring polished, we’ll do it on the spot.”

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“When you buy a ring from us, your fiancée is treated like royalty. If she comes in to have her ring polished, we’ll do it on the spot.” The complimentary service also provides moments of nostalgia. Matthew reports seeing rings brought in that were purchased 20, or more, years ago. “People I’ve never met before will say they bought their ring from our dad,” he says. “We still plate, replace diamonds and resize those rings at no charge today.” Participating in local charities and events is another method that Matthew Reboh employs to draw attention to the business. Jewels By Maximes has been involved with the Ronald McDonald House since its inception, as well as the Alberta Children’s Hospital, various cancer and health research foundations and the Flames Foundation. “We have a great relationship with the Calgary Flames,” says

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Matthew. “We do a lot of sponsorship with them and the Calgary Flames Foundation. A lot of their players have bought rings from us.”

BRICK AND MORTAR IS ALIVE In an era when more and more consumers are turning to the Internet to satisfy their shopping needs, the Rebohs continue to thrive with their particular, personal approach to business. “We offer service. We put a face to who you’re buying from,” explains Matthew. “That’s what we push: servicing our customers the best we can. Brick and mortar is still alive and thriving. We want to show people that the mom-and-pops can survive in this age of technology and low prices online. “Ten years ago, we thought we would have to expand in order to grow but now we see the potential here and our future goal is to get more of the Calgarian market and keep giving our customers great service,” says Matthew. “In a family business, nothing makes us happier than seeing a customer come in and they’re so excited about their ring that they hug us.

AT A GL A NCE jewels by maxime’s Number of stores: 2 Products and services: j e w e l l e r y, wat c h e s , c u s t o m w o r k , c o m p l i m e n ta r y l i f e t i m e s e r v i c e L o c at i o n s : m a r k e t m a l l , 3 6 2 5 s h a g a n a pp i t r a i l n .w. c a l g a r y, a l b e r ta t 3 a 0 e 2 chinook centre, 6455 macleod trail south c a l g a r y, a l b e r ta t 2 h 0 k 3 S ta f f: 1 6 Website: maximes.ca Awa r d s : t o p 5 0 d e s i g n e r j e w e l l e r y r e ta i l e r i n n o r t h a m e r i c a b y j c k

“It’s the almost unbelievable personal relationships that develop. That’s what this is all about.” {CJ}

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LES NOU V ELLES

Par Véronique Dubé

U n a i r d e p r i n t e mps c h e z P e r s o n a Persona présente une collection de bijoux à la mode et uniques; des perles et des breloques interchangeables qui peuvent tout aussi bien être portées en bracelets, en boucles d’oreilles ou en colliers. Les pièces qui composent la collection de Persona se distinguent pour l’exceptionnelle qualité des matériaux. Les différentes perles sont confectionnées en argent sterling, en verre italien, en pierres véritables, serties de cristaux autrichiens, plaquées d’or 18 carats ou d’émail coloré. Les bracelets et les colliers sont offerts avec une chaine en argent ou tressés en cuir, tandis que les boucles d’oreilles se déclinent en anneau ou à pendeloque.

L’a n n é e d u s e r p e n t

L e p r i x d u pa l l a d i u m n e c e ss e d e g r i mp e r

Le Nouvel An chinois, célébré le 10 février, a été marqué cette année par son animal emblématique, le serpent. Les reptiles ont toujours fait partie du monde de la bijouterie de fantaisie, bien qu’ils aient fait un retour en force dans les dernières années. Dans leurs dernières collections, les créateurs déclinent le serpent sous toutes ses formes: en bague, s’enroulant autour du doigt, en pendentif, plongeant vers le décolleté, en bracelet, s’agrippant aux poignets et même en boucles d’oreilles, où il s’entortille autour des oreilles et de leurs lobes.

Le palladium, qui est souvent utilisé comme une alternative au platine, a atteint 743$ l’once à la fin du mois de janvier. Selon Andy Holwell, directeur des ventes et du marketing chez Johnson Matthey, la f lambée du prix du palladium serait causée par les mêmes motifs qui ont entraîné une hausse du prix du platine, c’est-à-dire par les conf lits de travail et les fermetures de mines en Afrique du Sud.

V e r y S i s t e r s c o n n a î t u n v é r i ta b l e s u c c è s a u s a l o n M a i s o n & O b j e t d e Pa r i s Lors de la dernière édition du salon Maison & Objet, les Very Sisters Claire et Sophie y ont présenté leurs plus récentes créations. Les visiteurs ont été enchantés par la collection intemporelle de bijoux en argent et plaqués or rose constituée de bagues, de bracelets et de colliers. Les sœurs réinventent les classiques de la bijouterie de fantaisie, pour le plus grand plaisir des femmes, des jeunes filles et des enfants. À plusieurs reprises, on a parlé des bijoux Very Sisters dans ELLE, Cosmopolitain et Be, pour ne nommer que ces publications. Fortes de leur succès en Europe, les Very Sisters souhaitent maintenant étendre leurs activités en sol canadien. Pour de plus amples informations, visitez verysisters.com.

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Harry Winston : fin du litige dans l e d o ss i e r d e l a m i n e E k at i Harry Winston Diamond Corporation a annoncé le 4 février dernier être sur le point de compléter l’acquisition de 80% des actions de la mine Ekati, située dans les Territoires du Nord-Ouest, pour un investissement de 500 millions de dollars américains. Les actionnaires minoritaires de la mine, incluant M. Fipke, ont accepté de renoncer à leurs droits, alors qu’ils ont précédemment voulu bloquer la transaction. Le désistement des demandeurs a donc permis à Harry Winston et BHP Billiton de procéder à la transaction, qui devra néanmoins satisfaire certaines conditions et obtenir l’approbation des autorités réglementaires.

Les Chinois aiment le luxe

« Th e I m p o ss i b l e C o l l e c t i o n O f J e w e l r y »

Les consommateurs chinois ont acheté en 2012, selon la société de consultation américaine Bain & Company, 25% des produits de luxe dans le monde, comparativement à 1% en 1995. « La consommation chinoise soutient le marché mondial du luxe, particulièrement les montres haut de gamme; voilà pourquoi les marques internationales prêtent plus d’attention aux éléments chinois », a déclaré Zhou Ting, directrice du centre de recherches Fortune Character. Les hommes représenteraient 55% des acheteurs du marché du lu xe en Chine, alors que la moyenne mondiale se situe à 40%, selon le cour tier CLSA , une des pr incipales sociétés de cour tage a siatique.

Dans sa nouvelle encyclopédie [en anglais], la maison d’édition Assouline présente la quintessence de la joaillerie. L’historienne du bijou Vivienne Becker a eu pour délicate mission de dresser la liste des joyaux les plus remarquables des 100 dernières années. De l’Art nouveau au tournant du dernier millénaire, la sélection de Becker nous transporte à travers les époques et les styles des plus grands designers de bijoux tels Tiffany, Cartier, Fulco di Verdura pour Chanel. Sans oublier les créations raffinées de DeBeers, Van Cleef & Arpels et plusieurs autres. Disponible depuis février, en commande sur le site de la maison : assouline.com, $695.

Aquarell a® de Stuller, très tendance pour le printemps 2013 Chez Stuller, on a agencé les perles australiennes des mers du Sud, de Tahiti ou d’eau douce à des pierres précieuses, aux couleurs riches et vibrantes, toutes méticuleusement choisies. Il ne pouvait qu’en découler la création d’une collection aussi spectaculaire qu’exclusive de bijoux fins. Une attention toute particulière est portée aux détails, un travail qui requiert plusieurs heures afin de fabriquer chaque pièce qui la compose. Les perles, les pierres et les métaux sont sélectionnés pour créer un bijou harmonieux. Aquarella® propose des créations résultant d’un assemblage unique et exquis, des joyaux qui seront chéris pour des générations à venir.

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A p r è s l e c a r r é r o u g e , d ’a u t r e s c r é at i o n s d ’ I s a b e ll e K a p s a s k i s La joaillière Isabelle Kapsaskis avait fait parler d’elle, en août dernier, lors du premier débat des chefs à Radio-Canada. En effet, elle avait confectionné pour la porte-parole de Québec Solidaire, Françoise David, l’épinglette représentant le carré rouge. Finissante de l’École de joaillerie de Montréal, elle travaille depuis maintenant quatre ans comme joaillière autonome. Elle crée avec toute la passion qui l’habite, et cette énergie brute se retrouve dans ses pièces. Accordant une grande importance aux éléments qui l’entourent, elle les transpose ensuite dans ses créations, où textures, formes et couleurs prennent vie. Le cœur de son travail réside dans leur exploration et leur évolution. C’est en manipulant, forgeant et tordant le métal que naît l’essence même de ses bijoux.

L e s t e n d a n c e s d e l’a n n é e 2 0 1 3 En matière de bijoux, l’année 2013 sera fortement influencée par trois courants : les tapis rouges, les défilés de mode et la vraie vie. À travers les différents salons, les défilés de mode et lors des soirées de remises de prix, voici cinq tendances qu’on a observées. L’émeraude : Non seulement elle a été élue la couleur de l’année par PANTONE, mais plusieurs célébrités l’ont fièrement portée sur les tapis rouges. On en fait un incontournable cette année dans le domaine de la bijouterie.

Stratton’s Jewellery’s

Rembrandt Charm Department

“We are located in a heavy tourist area and purchased a Rembrandt display that holds 720 charms. This single tower has become a ‘destination’ for repeat customers and attracts people from everywhere. We are selling A TON of charms!”

Dave Stratton, owner

Stratton’s Jewellery, Banff, Alberta NUCO PRODUCTS

.com Thousands of charms in silver and gold.

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11 Progress Ave, Unit 17 • Scarborough, ON M1P 4S7 orders@rembrandtcharms.ca 800.387.5238 • 416.293.3495 24/7 fax 416.293.1227

Les boucles d’oreilles subtiles : on veut du mouvement, certes, mais on le veut romantique, volatile et léger. Les petites boucles d’oreilles à pendeloque ou solitaire sont donc populaires cette année. Noir et blanc : Bien entendu, les couleurs sont à l’honneur cette année. Mais le noir et blanc demeure un style qui traverse les époques. On craque pour les cristaux, le spinelle noir, l’onyx, la topaze blanche et évidemment, les diamants. Le serpent : Bulgari en a déjà fait son animal fétiche pour 2013 avec la collection Serpenti, et bon nombre de manufacturiers et designers de bijoux l’ont décliné sous toutes ses formes. Cabochons Drusy : Largement utilisé cette année afin de donner un look à la fois brut et brillant. Les consommateurs l’adorent, il est abordable et offert dans une variété de couleurs.

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L a n o u v e ll e c o ll e c t i o n d e Z i n z i ZINZI est fier de présenter sa nouvelle collection printemps/été 2013. Ses pièces en argent sterling, ornés de pierres de couleur ainsi que de cristaux de Swarovski savent plaire à tous les goûts. Une collection de bijoux de Hollande, très populaire en Europe et à travers le Canada, les créations de ZINZI se distinguent par leur design, leur qualité et leur style exceptionnels et par une approche marketing digne de grandes griffes connues à travers le monde. Devenez détaillant autorisé ZINZI dès aujourd’hui. Contactez Jean-Francois Courchesne au 1-800-361-0401. Visitez zinzi.com.

d e p l u s e n p l u s f r é q u e n t s L e s d i a m a n t s a r t i f i c i e ll e m e n t b r u n s :

Investir en publicité pendant le Super Bowl rapporte gros à Alex and Ani

Bien que très rares, les diamants bruns ne sont pas tous naturels. Le Gemological Institute of America en a récemment testé un dont la couleur a été obtenue artificiellement. La combinaison d’irradiation et de recuit est alors utilisée afin de rehausser la couleur naturelle de la pierre. Les diamants les plus souvent créés par ce procédé sont les verts, les bleus, les jaunes et les roses. La couleur du diamant de 1.04 carat a été nommée fancy reddish brown, soit brun rougeâtre.

La publicité présentée par Alex and Ani pendant le Super Bowl du 3 février, qui a coûté 2 millions de dollars, n’a été diffusée que dans certains états stratégiquement déterminés du Nord-Est des ÉtatsUnis. Les effets ont été immédiats : pendant le match, tout juste après la diffusion, les visites sur le site Internet de la compagnie ont augmenté de 243% et le jour suivant le Super Bowl, de 550%. Giovanni Feroce, PDG de Alex And Ani, prévoit même répéter l’expérience l’an prochain.

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LE SALON INTERNATIONAL DE L A HAUTE HORLOGERIE Le spectre d’un ralentissement dans le marché du luxe semble vouloir s’estomper. Lors du dernier Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), qui se déroulait du 21 au 25 janvier dernier à Genève, les 16 maisons exposantes ont dévoilé des modèles exclusifs qui laissent présager un grand optimiste quant aux industries de la montre et du luxe. Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, pour ne nommer que ceux-là, se sont exprimés dans de nouvelles collections nourries de classicisme. Cette année, le salon a accueilli plus de 13 000 visiteurs et près de 1200 journalistes.

SOTHEBY’S FRACASSE UN RECORD DE VENTES EN 2012 Les ventes de bijoux de Sotheby’s ont atteint 460,5 millions de dollars pour l’année 2012, un record historique pour la compagnie. Au cours de l’année, 72 lots ont été vendus pour plus d’un million de dollars chacun. En décembre dernier, lors de l’encan qui avait lieu à New York, Sotheby’s a récolté 64,8 millions de dollars. Il s’agissait de la journée la plus rentable à être enregistrée en Amérique. La vente de la bague d’Evelyn Lauder, acquise pour 8,59 millions de dollars, a marqué l’événement : la somme a été remise à La Fondation Canadienne du cancer du sein.

MON PREMIER DIAMANT My First Diamond (ou Mon premier diamant) est une collection de bijoux en argent spécialement conçue pour les jeunes filles. Chaque pièce est plaquée de rhodium et plusieurs sont serties d’un diamant. Les bijoux ont été créés afin de répondre à leurs goûts actuels, mais aussi pour les années à venir. On trouve chez My First Diamond une gamme complète de colliers, de bracelets, de bagues, de boucles d’oreilles et d’ensembles d’une grande qualité à des prix variant entre 50 et 80$. myfirstdiamond.ca [en anglais]

D É C O U V E R T E D E 2 0 0 FA U X D I A M A N T S Le laboratoire Analytical Gemology & Jewelry, situé à New York, a récemment découvert 200 faux diamants jaunes dans un colis qu’il devait analyser. Grâce à un procédé de vérification exclusif, le laboratoire a extrait 243 diamants synthétiques sur un lot total de 4556 pierres. Les pierres mesuraient entre 0,7 et 2,5 mm, leur couleur passait du jaune intense au jaune vif et leur clarté se situait de VS à SI. Les fausses pierres auraient été produites à partir du procédé HPHT (haute pression, haute température).

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L E S C O M PA G N I E S D I A M A N T I F È R E S A U G M E N T E N T LE PRIX DES DIAMANTS BRUTS

LES BIJOUTIERS SE TOURNENT DE PLUS EN PLUS V E R S L E P L AT I N E

L’année 2013 ne sera pas de tout repos pour les petits et moyens diamantaires qui oeuvrent à Surat, le plus important centre de coupe et de polissage de diamants au monde. En effet, les compagnies diamantifères augmenteront les prix de 3 à 5 %. Alors que depuis janvier la Diamond Trade Company a déjà augmenté ses prix de 2,5 à 3% en moyenne, d’autres compagnies diamantifères, comme Alrosa et BHP Billiton, ont suivi le courant en haussant le prix des pierres de 3 à 4%.

La flambée du prix de l’or incite de nombreux bijoutiers à suggérer à leurs clients d’acheter des bijoux en platine, surtout dans le cas des bagues de fiançailles. Le platine est un investissement sûr et les clients sont à même de constater ses avantages quant au sertissage et, à plus long terme, sa durabilité. Garder un inventaire à jour et rafr aîchir ses connaissances en la matière deviendront des éléments clés pour les propriétaires de bijouteries et leurs employés qui souhaitent promouvoir le platine dans leur commerce.

WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

13-03-12 6:37 PM

FINE STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY 1.888.388.4736 WWW.ETHANSTARS.COM

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renaissan cjenfrançais

Au pr i n t e m p s du fleu v e a mour La saison du cœur est à nos por tes BY V ERONIQUE DUBÉ

Le printemps célèbre le réveil de la nature et le retour des beaux jours. C’est aussi la saison parfaite pour l’aventure si belle et romantique qu’est le mariage. Des mois de mai à août, de nombreux couples partiront à la recherche de la bague de fiançailles idéale, celle qui fera chavirer le cœur de la future épouse.

Mirage Creations Inc.: Bague en or blanc 18 carats ornée de saphirs roses et de deux pavés de diamants

CJ M a r c h / a p r i l 2 0 1 3 |

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www.canadianjeweller.com

2013-03-12 7:14 PM

ance cjenfrançais

es critères de recherche d’une bague de fiançailles varient beaucoup selon les goûts, l’âge, le budget et les tendances du moment. De tous les modèles de bague qui existent, trois catégories dominent : - Le solitaire : la monture est sertie d’une seule pierre. Il est certainement le plus populaire. - Le solitaire épaulé : la monture est sertie d’une pierre en son centre et cette dernière est rehaussée par plusieurs pierres sur les côtés – parfois des pavés – et la dimension de ces dernières est inférieure à la pierre centrale. - Le « trois pierres », ou la trilogie : la monture est sertie de trois pierres – généralement des diamants – soit de mêmes dimensions, soit la pierre centrale sera plus grande. Poursuivant sa course depuis maintenant quelques années, l’or blanc 14 carats demeure le métal préféré des consommateurs. Selon Jack Libarian, de la compagnie Libar (H & R Design Jewellery Ltd.), « les gens choisiront l’or blanc dans 90% des cas » Le platine et l’or jaune se partageront l’autre 10%. « De nos jours, l’or jaune est surtout utilisé pour les joncs, les bagues cocktail et les bijoux de fantaisie. »

L a coupe du di a m a n t

Les acheteurs de bijoux seront d’abord attirés par un design de bague en particulier, mais encore là, trois catégories l’emportent : - Le diamant rond : il est le plus populaire de tous. On l’aime pour son classicisme et sa brillance. Qu’il soit serti en solitaire ou au centre d’un pavé, jamais il ne tombera dans la désuétude. - Le diamant coussin : il fait un retour en force. Probablement la plus vieille de toutes les coupes, on l’accompagne souvent d’un pavé de diamants. Le cœur facetté en étoile procure une brillance sans égal. - Le diamant princesse : il est apprécié pour son étincellement. On le choisit pour son look à la fois moderne, lorsque serti en solitaire, ou classique, quand il est accompagné d’un pavé de diamants. Grâce à l’accessibilité de l’information, les consommateurs sont de plus en plus informés et avertis. Ils opteront souvent pour la qualité du diamant avant la grosseur et voudront obtenir un certificat de gemmologie pour la pierre qu’ils achèteront. En règle générale, les acheteurs choisiront une bague de fiançailles qui totalise de 80 points à cinq carats de

diamants. Cependant, M. Libarian précisait qu’au Canada, les modèles de bagues les plus populaires sont ceux dont les diamants totalisent entre un et deux carats et demi, le diamant central de un carat étant souvent très demandé. La plupart du temps, les gens opteront pour un ensemble, c’est-à-dire la bague de fiançailles et l’alliance. D’ailleurs, bon nombre de bijoutiers le suggèrent puisqu’on évite de se retrouver avec une alliance qui s’ajusterait mal à la bague. On tente de conseiller les acheteurs aussi en fonction de la morphologie de la main. Ainsi, une personne dont les doigts sont longs et eff ilés préférera souvent un corps de bague délicat et étroit, alors qu’une personne aux doigts plus épais optera pour un modèle plus volumineux. De plus, il est très fréquent de nos jours que les futurs époux choisissent ensemble la bague de f iançailles. On explique ce changement de compor tement du fait que la « demande officielle » n’est plus systématique. possibilité de person na liser

Il n’est pas rare que les futurs époux souhaitent immortaliser le souvenir de leur union en gravant l’intérieur de leurs bijoux d’une date ou de leurs noms, par exemple. Ils seront souvent très heureux que le bijoutier leur offre la possibilité de personnaliser leur bijou. Cette tendance gagne du terrain depuis quelques années. « Bien que rarement, certains clients voudront un diamant central de couleur, par exemple rose ou jaune » ajoutait M. Libarian. « Dans ces cas, les acheteurs choisiront une monture qui offre un pavé de diamants et un solitaire de couleur. » Aussi, d’autres demanderont une émeraude, un saphir ou un rubis comme pierre centrale. Ainsi, le printemps et l’été sont les saisons les plus populaires pour faire l’achat d’une bague de fiançailles. On profite aussi souvent du temps des Fêtes pour annoncer la nouvelle à la famille. Quoi qu’il en soit, les bagues de fiançailles se vendent à longueur d’année. La demande en mariage représente une étape importante dans un couple. Les futurs mariés anticipent le plus beau jour de leur vie avec impatiente. Déjà, le branle-bas se déclenche. Dans ce parcours qu’ils entament, ils seront amenés à acheter des bijoux qu’ils garderont pour très longtemps. Et ces bijoux se doivent d’être parfaits et à leur image. { C J }

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| March/april 2013

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cjenfrançais

Comme Vous L’aimez la PERSONNALISATION des BIJOUX VUE PAR STULLER

BY V ERONIQUE DUBÉ

Libar, Collection de mariage: Bague de fiançailles en or blanc 18 carats ornée d’un diamant rond de 50 points et alliance assortie en or blanc 18 carats avec diamants totalisant 26 points

ne plateforme conçue par Stuller afin d’optimiser le rendement des bijouteries tout en facilitant les interactions avec les clients, CounterSketch® s’agit d’une façon de créer et de vendre des bijoux personnalisés au design unique. En plus d’offrir un concept clé en main à l’affût des nouvelles technologies, Stuller s’engage à livrer les commandes de ses clients en quelques jours seulement. Pour le bijoutier, il devient donc possible d’élargir son inventaire de façon numérique tout en limitant les stocks. De plus, CounterSketch est facile à utiliser. Répondre aux demandes des clients et créer des bijoux personnalisés, de A à Z, devient un jeu d’enfant.

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13-03-12 3:23 PM

cjenfrançais Les critères de recherche d’une bague de fiançailles varient beaucoup selon les goûts, l’âge, le budget et les tendances du moment. De tous les modèles de bague qui existent, trois catégories dominent : - - -

Le solitaire : la monture est sertie d’une seule pierre. Il est certainement le plus populaire. Le solitaire épaulé : la monture est sertie d’une pierre en son centre et cette dernière est rehaussée par plusieurs pierres sur les côtés – parfois des pavés – et la dimension de ces dernières est inférieure à la pierre centrale. Le « trois pierres », ou la trilogie : la monture est sertie de trois pierres – généralement des diamants – soit de mêmes dimensions, soit la pierre centrale sera plus grande.

Poursuivant sa course depuis maintenant quelques années, l’or blanc 14 carats demeure le métal préféré des consommateurs. Selon Jack Libarian, de la compagnie Libar (H & R Design Jewellery Ltd.), « les gens choisiront l’or blanc dans 90% des cas. » Le platine et l’or jaune se partageront l’autre 10%. « De nos jours, l’or jaune est surtout utilisé pour les joncs, les bagues cocktail et les bijoux de fantaisie. » L a c o u p e d u di a m a n t

Les acheteurs seront d’abord attirés par un design de bague en particulier, mais encore là, trois catégories de coupe l’emportent : -

Le diamant rond : il est le plus populaire de tous. On l’aime pour son classicisme et sa brillance. Qu’il soit serti en solitaire ou au centre d’un pavé, jamais il ne tombera dans la désuétude. - Le diamant coussin : il fait un retour en force. Probablement la plus vieille de toutes les coupes, on l’accompagne souvent d’un pavé de diamants. Le cœur facetté en étoile procure une brillance sans égal. - Le diamant princesse : il est apprécié pour son étincellement. On le choisit pour son look à la fois moderne, lorsque serti en solitaire, ou classique, quand il est accompagné d’un pavé de diamants.

Grâce à l’accessibilité de l’information, les consommateurs sont de plus en plus informés et avertis. Ils opteront souvent pour la qualité du diamant avant la grosseur et voudront obtenir un certificat de gemmologie pour la pierre qu’ils achèteront. En règle générale, les acheteurs choisiront une bague de fiançailles qui totalise de 80 points à cinq carats de diamants. Cependant, M. Libarian précisait qu’au Canada, les modèles de bagues les plus populaires sont ceux dont les diamants totalisent entre un et deux carats et demi, le diamant central de un carat étant souvent très demandé. L e s f u t u rs é p o u x c h o isiss e n t e n s e m b l e

La plupart du temps, les gens opteront pour un ensemble, c’est-à-dire la bague de fiançailles et l’alliance. D’ailleurs, bon nombre de bijoutiers le suggèrent puisqu’on évite de se retrouver avec une alliance qui s’ajusterait mal à la bague. On tente de conseiller les acheteurs aussi en fonction de la morphologie de la main. Ainsi, une personne dont les doigts sont longs et effilés préférera souvent un corps de bague délicat et étroit, alors qu’une personne aux doigts plus épais optera pour un modèle plus volumineux. De plus, il est très fréquent de nos jours que les futurs époux choisissent ensemble la bague de fiançailles. On explique ce changement de comportement du fait que la « demande officielle » n’est plus systématique. Il n’est pas rare que les futurs époux souhaitent immortaliser le souvenir de leur union en gravant l’intérieur de leurs bijoux d’une date ou de leurs noms, par exemple. Ils seront souvent très heureux que le bijoutier leur offre la possibilité de personnaliser leur bijou. Cette tendance gagne du terrain depuis quelques années. « Bien que rarement, certains clients voudront un diamant central de couleur, par exemple rose ou jaune » ajoutait M. Libarian. « Dans ces cas, les acheteurs choisiront une monture qui offre un pavé de diamants et un solitaire de couleur. » Aussi, d’autres demanderont une émeraude, un saphir ou un rubis comme pierre centrale. Ainsi, le printemps et l’été sont les saisons les plus populaires pour faire l’achat d’une bague de fiançailles. On profite aussi souvent du temps des Fêtes pour annoncer la nouvelle à la famille. Quoi qu’il en soit, les bagues de fiançailles se vendent à longueur d’année. La demande en mariage représente une étape importante dans un couple. Les futurs mariés anticipent le plus beau jour de leur vie avec impatiente. Déjà, le branle-bas se déclenche. Dans ce parcours qu’ils entament, ils seront amenés à acheter des bijoux qu’ils garderont pour très longtemps. Et ces bijoux se doivent d’être parfaits et à leur image. Martial Dubé, spécialiste en développement commercial chez Stuller, travaille depuis plus de 30 ans dans le domaine de la bijouterie, tant canadien qu’international. Il a vu le marché

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| March/april 2013

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cjenfrançais évoluer et il considère la plateforme CounterSketch comme l’outil de prédilection des années à venir. « Avec l’ouverture des marchés, l’accessibilité des ressources et la disponibilité des produits, les consommateurs effectuent leurs achats différemment. Leurs attentes sont plus élevées et ils sont pressés. Voilà, entre autres, comment CounterSketch peut aider le bijoutier de demain» disait-il. Commen t fonc tion n e Cou n terSk etch

1- Le bijoutier commence par choisir avec le client un modèle prototype parmi les collections de bagues de fiançailles, de joncs éternité et de bijoux de fantaisie. Ensuite, il le combine avec l’inventaire numérique comme « modèle de point de départ » afin d’amorcer le processus de personnalisation du bijou. 2- Le bijoutier effectue les changements en temps réel et en trois dimensions directement sur le modèle qui apparaît à l’écran. En même temps, le logiciel génère une estimation précise et produit des images réalistes et détaillées du bijou. 3- Une fois prêt à être fabriqué, le bijoutier n’aura qu’à envoyer le design personnalisé du bijou à Stuller, en précisant le choix du fini, les options de montage, etc. tout offertes directement dans le logiciel. Un fichier CAD parviendra aux experts-bijoutiers de Stuller. L’outil idéal pour…

Les propriéta ires et gér a n ts

Prenez le contrôle. Avec CounterSketch, il est désormais possible de rehausser son commerce et d’en faire l’endroit de prédilection pour les commandes personnalisées. De plus, les thèmes de l’interface peuvent être adaptés selon l’approche marketing, le matériel imprimé, les sites Internet ou les médias sociaux. Stuller procure aux propriétaires et gérants de bijouterie non seulement la tranquillité d’esprit, mais aussi la possibilité d’exercer un meilleur contrôle des stocks de métaux et de pierres précieuses en magasin. En effet, CounterSketch inverse le processus d’achat traditionnel: on vend le bijou avant même de l’avoir acheté. Les bijou tiers

Sauvez du temps. Quel bijoutier ne rêve pas de facilité et de rapidité quand vient le temps d’effectuer des modifications sur un bijou existant ! Une tâche parfois laborieuse, surtout lorsqu’on n’a pas à sa disposition les moules ou les techniques de fabrication assistées par ordinateur. Stuller facilite le travail du bijoutier en lui offrant la possibilité de se concentrer sur les réparations usuelles de bijoux ou, s’il le désire, sur le sertissage et la finition seulement. Une économie de temps, mais aussi d’argent.

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L e s a ss o c i é s a u x v e n t e s

Soyez créatifs. Avec CounterSketch, les associés aux ventes prennent plaisir à travailler avec les clients afin de créer avec eux le bijou parfait. Le système génère des images réelles d’une qualité exceptionnelle à partir d’un modèle et des modifications qu’on y apporte. Créer un nouveau design n’a jamais été aussi simple. L e s cl i e n t s

Inspirez-les. CounterSketch offre à vos clients la possibilité de restaurer leurs pierres et leurs bijoux. Attirez-les en magasin et procurez-leur une expérience d’achat mémorable et personnalisée. Ils en parleront à leurs familles, leurs amis et leurs proches. Vous vous distinguerez dans votre marché et en ressortirez gagnant.

Il ne va pas sans dire, Stuller a tout mis sur pied pour que l’intégration de la plateforme CounterSketch soit une expérience sans tracas. « Le bijoutier est là pour répondre aux besoins de ses clients. Et Stuller s’engage à lui rendre la tâche agréable » ajoutait M. Dubé. La compagnie offre des formations à son siège social à Lafayette, en Louisiane, ainsi que des séances privées directement en magasins afin d’aider les propriétaires de bijouterie à maximiser leur investissement dans cet outil technologique de pointe. CounterSketch a déjà fait plusieurs heureux. Partout, on entend les témoignages de clients qui vantent les mérites de la plateforme. Les bijoutiers aiment le fait d’être à l’avant-garde dans l’industrie, d’exercer un meilleur contrôle de leurs stocks et de pouvoir fournir à leurs clients un procédé de design personnalisé. Ils remarquent aussi un changement dans leur façon de vendre leurs bijoux. Les demandes spéciales des clients ne constituent plus un frein à la vente; elles deviennent plutôt un défi qu’il est désormais possible de réaliser grâce à CounterSketch. { C J }

www.canadianjeweller.com

13-03-12 3:25 PM

Make your store the leading fashion jewellery destination with Ti Sento Milano. Sophisticated and affordable Italian-style fashion jewellery has arrived in North America and is available NOW with Ti Sento Milano. Handcrafted quality and fashion forward designs in .925 Sterling Silver and 18CT Gold Vermeil with pearl, natural onyx, Italian leather and CZ in a dazzling array of colours. It’s time to move beyond yesterday’s silver jewellery. Make your store a leader with the evolving European fashion jewellery trends. Ti Sento Milano is the next level of versatile, mix & match fashion jewellery. Expect more from your fashion jewellery lines. Ti Sento Milano has the industry leading programme to bring you a superior ROI, high turn performance with stronger profit per square foot potential. © 2013 Premier Fashion Brands LLC.

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Experience the Ti Sento Milano difference: •

National PR, Social Media, Brand Development

•

Best-in-Class Store Training & Sales Support

•

Outstanding Visual Merchandising & Furniture Programme

•

Marketing Co-op

•

Store Events - Turnkey

•

Packaging, Catalogues

Contact: Aren Arkarakas, 416-301-8869 or email aren@nouvomode.com Two-time winner (2010 & 2011) “UK Jewellery Brand of the Year”

Visit us at JCK 2013 (Booth #B5656) www.tisento-milano.com

2013-02-05 11:33 AM

designerprofile | TiSentoMilano C a t ’s Eye Fer n G r e en r i ng i n s t erl i ng

SILVER STREAK

s i l ver f r om Je t S e t C ol le c t ion

Ti Sento Milano celebrates ten years of dazzling momentum and award-winning style BY NICOLE FOTHERINGHAM

wned by IBB Amsterdam, Ti Sento Milano is a manufacturer of luxurious and affordable silver jewellery. Releasing two product lines annually and managing distribution in 30 countries worldwide, the producers of this award-winning brand have enjoyed a boom of growth in recent years. Ti Sento Milano is on trend and in demand now, more than ever. Pe nd a nt Por t of i no s e t w i t h g r e e n s t one s a nd 92 5 s i l ver

Launched in 2003, Ti Sento’s original inspiration was to create modern, free-spirited, feminine jewellery using rich colours and European elegance. The Ti Sento woman is feminine, chic and fashionable; she combines pieces to create personalized looks that help make her feel beautiful and desirable. Although the brand has evolved over time, it still maintains its playful attitude. What makes this dazzling silver line unique? According to Ti Sento marketing representative Carine Van Eijden, “one of the key success factors of the collection is the superior quality, with the main distinction being the handset stones that are similar to the production methods from high-end jewellery.” Made exclusively from sterling silver, Ti Sento’s quality handcrafted rings, wrist-wear, necklaces and earrings are forged using the finest materials and the highest quality manufacturing techniques. No glue is allowed, and skilled diamond setters place and set each cubic stone by hand. Once completed, pieces are rhodium-plated, to strengthen the silver and create a bold and romantic sheen. Because the company’s driving principle is to create an individual piece for every “Ti Sento woman,” all lines feature an array of shapes, sizes and colours with styles ranging from extravagant statement pieces to everyday drop-earrings. Pave bangles and beaded bracelets are built to be stacked or worn separately. The brand’s “Mix & Match” principle delivers a versatility that allows the wearer to combine pieces and create an individualized look.

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TiSentoMilano | designerprofile This year, Ti Sento Milano celebrates its 10th anniversary. Marking the occasion is the Portofino collection: a love letter to the sunshine, beaches and scenery of the Mediterranean seaside town. “It was by this little Italian village, Portofino, which screams luxury and style, where our designers felt truly inspired and wanted to share their experience with customers by creating this feel-good collection,” says Van Eijden. Influenced by peachy pastels, ocean greens, perfect whites and smooth caramels, the 550-piece Portofino collection is all about feeling beautiful and embracing what Van Eijden calls, with intentional reference to Fellini, “La Dolce Vita.” Cabochon and faceted cat’s eye stones are blended with rose gold and traditional gold-coloured details in several designs within each of Portofino’s four ranges: Champagne, Jet Set, Riva and Porto di Portofino. Two-time winner of the prestigious UK Jewellery Awards Retail Brand of the Year (2010 and 2011), Ti Sento Milano is on track to becoming a global leader in the silver fashion jewellery market. Recipients of this prize are scored for achievements in design, client service and marketing by industry buyers and retailers who truly understand the brand and its customers.

Providing in-store marketing material to ensure clients are fully educated and informed, Ti Sento works with individual retailers to ensure the brand’s success. According to Mr. Di Gennaro, “Ti Sento Milano is a hands-on type of company; they go the extra mile to ensure the retailer is fully educated on their brand.” The Ti Sento Milano team in the Netherlands says,“Ten years of Ti Sento made a mark in the trade. The silver jewellery industry has grown tremendously since 2003. Now, Ti Sento is ready to shake up the industry once more, by adding a completely new twist to the collection.” {CJ}

Br a c e le t Por t of i no f r om S pr i ng /S u m mer 2 01 3 C ol le c t ion;

With distributors in Europe, Australia, South Africa and North America, the brand’s commitment to working closely with retailers to provide great customer service is more important than ever. Battista Di Gennaro, owner of A Passion for Living — a small chain of home, gift and fashion stores in Ontario and official Ti Sento Milano retailer — has been bringing the brand to customers since October 2012. Impressed by the quality, design and new releases twice a year, Di Gennaro believes the elegant and classic line upholds a Passion for Living’s value of always looking one’s best. “We already have customers coming back to buy more. The branding is extremely appealing. Twice a year they change the display look and colours, which is a genius marketing technique because the merchandise always looks new and keeps the customer excited for the brand.”

Tu r q uoi s e g l a s s br a c e le t

E a r S t ud s Por t of i no w i t h s e a g r e en C Z s t one s

M i l a no C ol le c t ion s i l ver r i ng s e t w i t h C Z s t one s

Br ig ht p e a c h , w h i t e a nd or a nge g i lde d r i ng s f r om Two Tone C ol le c t ion

Ch a mp a g ne C ol le c t ion br a c e le t f r om S pr i ng /S u m mer 2 01 3 C ol le c t ion; R ho d iu m-f i n i she d or a nge b a ng le ; C or a l g l a s s br a c e le t

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| March/april 2013

2013-03-20 3:51 PM

companyprofile | Augenstern

rom Hair to Eternity For g e t a b out c a rb on c opie s: Aug en s t er n’s diamonds are carbon uniques by nicole fotheringh a m

Have you e ver wor n a pie c e of je wel ler y t h at el ic it e d t he e xcl a m at ion , “ Th at ’s ju s t s o you” ? Th i s s t at ement t a ke s on a t r uer me a n i ng w it h a n Aug en s t er n h a i r d i a mond . Aug en s t er n i s i n t he e x t r a or d i n a r y bu si ne s s of cr e at i ng p er s on a l i z e d d i a mond s f r om b o dy c a rb on . C a rb on c a n b e c ombi ne d f r om a s m a ny s ou r c e s a s t he c u s t omer pr ov ide s , y ield i ng one ver y s p e c i a l , i nde e d t r u ly u n ique , d i a mond . Aug en s t er n d i a mond s m a ke u npr e c e dent e d ly or ig i n a l eng a g ement r i ng s , e a r r i ng s , p end a nt s or ot her g i f t s for t he wom a n w ho t houg ht she h a d e ver y t h i ng.

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www.canadianjeweller.com

2013-03-20 3:53 PM

HPHT press

Eric Brideau, president of Augenstern, holding the Miss Russia Diamond

Augenstern | companyprofile

ugenstern means ‘twinkle of my eye’ in German, and that’s exactly what the Swiss manufacturer aims to achieve. Although produced in a laboratory, an Augenstern is every bit as real as a natural diamond, with one important exception: it’s entirely made of human hair. “It’s a process identical to Mother Nature’s own,” says company President Eric Brideau. “We are not in the market to replace natural diamonds but rather to offer a unique alternative. All we need in order to make a diamond is heat, carbon and pressure. You can choose to use carbon from a single person or from many different people to create a diamond that is the size, cut and colour you want.”

T h e Augens tern Pro c e s s

The requirements in order to create an Augenstern diamond could not be simpler for the client, although the process itself can only be managed by a handful of the world’s most sophisticated laboratories. The client needs to collect 10 grams of hair (0.35 ounces), which is about two to four haircuts’ worth. The 10 grams of hair can be sourced from a single donor or a collection of hair samples, if the wish is to have more than one person’s carbon included in the diamond.

delivered to your jeweller who will set it for the customer. “When you choose an Augenstern diamond, you’re not only choosing a unique gift—you are also choosing to protect the environment,” says Brideau. Mining carries with it a plethora of social and environmental issues that are mitigated when you make your own diamond. The Augenstern plant uses a lot of energy in the production of its precious stones, but this energy is obtained entirely from renewable sources. “ M A K E YOU R OW N Di amond ”

The hair is shipped to Augenstern’s factory in Switzerland, along with desired specifications for size, cut and colour of the diamond. The diamonds can be cut into a variety of shapes and sizes and are also available in different colours among them, golden sunset yellow, livid light green, deep passion red and noble icy blue. The manufacturing process consists of four steps: first, the carbon is extracted from the hair samples (carbonization) and transformed into graphite (graphitization). Next, the graphite is transformed into a rough diamond with the application of considerable heat and pressure. Augenstern diamonds take more than one week to create; the bigger the diamond, the longer the process. Finally, the rough diamond is expertly cut to exacting Swiss standards, certified and

The company was created in 2008 in Switzerland — where it occupies a prestigious address in St. Mortiz — and expanded to Quebec City in 2010. Augenstern is the world’s leading producer of personalized hair diamonds. It also partakes in an annual charitable drive where diamonds are created from carbon donated by celebrities (to date: a former Miss Russia, Victoria Lopyreva, and Michael Schumacher). Prospective clients can contact Augenstern online, and order diamonds through a jeweller of their choosing. For the person who ‘has everything,’ or for a truly personalized gift that defines uniqueness, Augenstern stones stand as perhaps a perfect symbol, not to mention a perfect conversation piece. {c j}

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| March/april 2013

2013-03-12 5:17 PM

watchfeature

Mechanical By Steven Schelling

T h e o t h e rw ise pe ac e f u l S w is s a r e g o i n g t o wa r o v e r wa t c h m o v e m e n t s

or all the cachet of brand names and gold bands, it’s the mechanical movements themselves — the oscillators, the escapements and the balance springs — that keep the watch industry running like, well, clockwork. Never has this been more evident than in the recent high-stakes standoff between the marketdominating Swatch Group and other Swiss watchmakers, the latter of whom depend on the former’s virtual monopoly to produce their own stock for the $23.3 billion (and growing) Swiss watch market. The first salvo in this timely skirmish occurred in June 2011, when Swatch Group became the focus of an investigation by The Swiss Competition Commission (COMCO). Swatch Group claims it initiated the investigation in hopes of limiting third-party access to movements made by its subsidiaries — chief ly ETA, established in 1793 and maker of up to 70 per cent of the core mechanisms used by other Swiss watch companies, and Nivarox-FAR, whose balance springs account for 90 per cent of the industry’s market share. Swatch Group was advocating for change, and petitioned to reduce its outside component sales by a full 30 per cent by 2018. The conglomerate won a modest reduction from COMCO in 2012, with another undisclosed agreement reached on March 6th of this year. “We have reached an agreement... The next step is to take it to the entire Weko commission and then decide how to proceed,” Swatch lawyer Hanspeter

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Mayhem

Rentsch said at a recent press conference. Rentsch gave no further details of the agreement that was reached. Swatch Group’s move had a chilling effect on what had historically been a Swiss cottage industry, one that began hundreds of years ago with alpine villages farmers whiling away long winter months making watch components. This artisanal, idyllic era was nearly wiped out in the 1970s by mass-produced Japanese quartz movements, whose timekeeping abilities rivaled pricier Swiss products. It is widely believed that Swatch Group, founded in the 1980s with the merger of two failing companies, almost single-handedly saved the country’s iconic timepiece industry by capturing the “second watch market” with its affordable and phenomenally popular plastic Swatch watch. Newly successful and flush, Swatch Group soon acquired higher-end lines like Tissot, Omega, Breguet, Glashütte and Jaquet Droz, among others. In 2012, the company’s portfolio accounted for one-third of Swiss watch sales. More crucially: while diversifying its stable, Swatch Group also bought up the smaller behind-the-scenes component makers that it and other brands rely upon to make their watches run. Competing Swiss watchmakers are afraid that Swatch Group’s request to limit sales is only a first step in changing the rules. A holdover from the industry’s piece-work past, movement makers like ETA must sell

www.canadianjeweller.com

13-03-12 5:36 PM

Canadian Jeweller ISSUE: Specs: 9” x 10.875” MATERIALS: PDF/X1A ATTN: Elizabeth Valiaho, Production Manager • Rive Gauche Media • 60 Bloor St West Ste. 1106 • Toronto ON M4W 3B8

Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with

RaHul KadaKia. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas, shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.

A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and well-rounded businessman.

Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my first interview with the company.

Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise. Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem.

Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available. Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day. GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at www.giA.eDU

AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113 ADVERTISER: GIA

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PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119 ISSUE: Canadian Jeweller

2/25/13 8:40 AM 13-03-12 5:35 PM

watchfeature

movements to any and all Swiss firms who request their products. Independents fear Swatch Group is trying to shut them out completely, an assertion Swatch Group denies. “The intention of Swatch Group’s request to COMCO is not to stop deliveries [of components], but to be able to chose its business partners,” says Béatrice Howard, Head of Media Relations and spokesperson for Swatch Group. “As the rules are now, Swatch Group has to deliver mechanical movements to whomever is asking for them. [We] will continue to work with...longstanding business partners but do not want to be compelled to do so.” Industry experts like Simon Pennell, CEO of Vancouver-based Momentum/St. Moritz Watch Corporation, are concerned about Swatch Group’s position. “Because of the way the industry developed in Switzerland, I could see Swatch Group demanding complete control over a revolutionary new movement that ETA invented, yet everything was standardized so long ago when little factories were making ébauches and faceplates in the Jura mountains,” he says. On the other hand, Pennell is sympathetic to Swatch Group’s position as the largest player in an industry comprised of a handful of powerhouses. “Today’s movements were developed and improved by ETA, often from earlier designs of a variety of manufacturers. It must be galling for Swatch Group to have to sell its movements to outside brands,” Pennell says, pointing out that marquee names like TAG Heuer and Vacheron Constantin aren’t little independents — they are owned by competing mega-conglomerates (LVMH and Richemont, respectively). “For Swatch Group, it must be like if GM were forced to sell its engines to Ford.”

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Pennell, who uses both Swiss and Japanese movements in the Momentum watches produced by St. Moritz, nonetheless foresees a silver lining of sorts for the Swiss watch industry if Swatch Group gets its way. “Just by launching this appeal, Swatch Group has put big pressure on the other prestige brands to develop their own movements,” he says, pointing to LVMH and, to a lesser degree, Richemont embracing vertical integration and buying component companies of their own. Swatch Group’s sheer dominance has made that task more difficult. “They have not been able to buy up many specialty component makers, mainly because there aren’t many left to buy,” says Pennell. Meanwhile, in the last decade, “smaller Swiss manufacturers like Sellita have shifted their focus from assembling to producing their own mechanical movements.” Pennell identifies the main short-term problem as the simple fact that smaller manufacturers preparing (or, indeed, trying to put off the decision) to step into the void — like the aforementioned Sellita — cannot offer the same volume of production, not to mention its resulting economy of scale, as a company like ETA. Thus, prices from non-ETA brands can be as much as eight times higher. Even more challenging for these companies is that they will need to develop their own in-house expertise, or alternative sources, for highly specialized components. For retailers and consumers, this continuing saga means that prices of Swiss-made watches will inevitably rise. Still, as the saying goes: only time will tell. {CJ}

www.canadianjeweller.com

13-03-12 5:36 PM

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13-03-12 4:24 PM

feature | VicenzaOro

The

Shining Future

VicenzaOro prov ides a peak into jewel ler y t rend s for 2013 a nd beyond B y F r a n k d e J e s u s a n d J o a n n e B r a t h wa i t e

n January, Canadian Jeweller attended VicenzaOro, a tri-annual international exhibition of gold, jewellery, silverware, watches and gemstones. Held at the Fiera di Vicenza and playing host to 1,361 exhibitors (949 of which were Italian), the fair affirmed itself as a trade and content platform, a qualified reference point for world jewellery and precious metals. “The Future. Now” was the theme of the opening international summit at the gold and jewellery exhibition (Jan. 19-24), the sector’s first trade fair of the year. Targeting the world’s top purchasing groups, international buyers and large wholesale trade groups, the VicenzaOro Winter showcase presents the first collections of the calendar year. It is the go-to exhibition for showcasing international jewellery trends. Paola De Luca is the founder of Trend Vision Jewellery + Forecasting, an Italian multimedia creative and trendwatch agency that works in conjunction with Fiera di Vicenza to outline directions in consumer and market behaviour. Right now, says De Luca, the younger generation is starting trends — adapting to their circumstances to create a completely repurposed version of luxury. The beauty of a piece is no longer associated with just materials,

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but also design. In 2013, expect to see more “mixed media and hybrid jewellery. It’s no longer about gold or silver; it’s about mixed leathers, resins like Bakelite and other non-traditional materials.” We will likely also see more yellow and coloured gold making their way into men’s jewellery. While fine jewellery inherently embraces luxury, the current economic climate forces the notion of integrating less-expensive materials into design. Common rock crystal has become the antithesis to flawless diamonds, while leather replaces gold; metals like silver are treated to look like iron and steel. Throughout the ages, diamonds have been sought after for their clarity, brilliance and fire; however, economic factors are forcing retailers to rethink how to market once ‘undesirable’ diamonds. Brown, grey and yellow versions are turning up in even the most important piece of jewellery in women’s lives — the engagement ring — and De Luca says that these unusual diamonds will change the contemporary perception of “bling.” De Luca’s team has identified four megatrends that will influence the styles, colours and shape of jewellery worn in 2013 and beyond.

www.canadianjeweller.com

13-03-12 3:36 PM

feature | VicenzaOro

Bol d Col ou r N e o -Wo n d e r Charade white gold, diamond, ruby and semi precious stone bracelets

Bertani & Co. white gold, tanzanite, diamond and sapphire earrings

Br u ma n i yel low, w h it e and rose gold rings with white and brown diamonds and yellow and orange sapphires

ECOMAGINATION espouses the balance between concern for the environment and playfulness. This trend uses nature as a source of inspiration. Expect to see everything from butterflies and wing shapes, flora silhouettes and botanical motifs. Nostalgia factors high in the DECORAMA trend, which rediscovers and interprets decorative styles of great influence. As this trend blends classic designs with a fresh and modern twist, we can expect to see luxurious and exotic materials, and precious gemstones. NEO-WONDER places an emphasis on colour and shape as a real power of expression. Louder, bigger and brighter is best, if you want to convey your message. The ’80s influence continues, with vivid pops of colour; futuristic, clean silhouettes take their cue from urban environments.

INDIGENUITY is influenced by urban nomads, who travel light and know that whatever they need will be at their next destination. It features a modern aesthetic reminiscent of ancient tribes, and a desire for ‘slow fashion,’ which focuses on quality in production and product. Mixing leather with precious metals and stones is prominent. Ultimately, jewellery is always an expression of individuality, and retailers will be tapping into trends and creating products that help consumers tell their stories. “This story is not only about the brand; a successful retailer will bond with its customer to help them answer the question, ‘What world or look am I selling?’ “Today, luxury is a philosophy that reflects contemporary values,” De Luca says. “It’s a story told through emotions and materials. Jewellery can project a real or aspirational lifestyle.” {CJ}

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| March/april 2013

13-03-12 3:36 PM

feature | VicenzaOro

Mode r n A RT Deco Decorama The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin silver pendants plated in ruthenium and yellow gold

Picchiotti sapphire and diamond earrings

Damiani white gold

Mi x ed W i t h L e at her

and diamond ring

Indigenuit y B er t a n i & C o. le at her, r o s e gold and diamond bracelet

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www.canadianjeweller.com

13-03-12 3:36 PM

feature | VicenzaOro

F l or a a n d Fau na Ecomagination

Charade white gold with white, black and rough diamond earrings

Roberto Coin white gold, enamel and diamond bracelet

Utopia diamond and pearl earrings

Picchiotti white and yellow gold brooch with diamonds and rubies

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| March/april 2013

13-03-18 2:40 PM

companyprofile | Dimples

First impressions For Jeffrey Ross of Dimples, necessity truly was the mother of invention By Fr a nk de Jesus

t’s no secret that love is one of the jewellery industry’s greatest prime motivators. Love is quite literally the reason that Jeffrey Ross got into the business when he founded Jeffrey Ross Jewellery and Dimples Fingerprint Jewellery: he wanted to design an engagement ring for his fiancée.

developed a malleable form of sterling silver to capture fingerprints. “It’s much more than a fingerprint; it’s an actual three-dimensional impression,” Ross says. “This is very important to our customers: it goes back to the fact that babies grow up so fast, you want to capture and preserve those itty-bitty fingers and moments.”

“At the time, I was a microbiologist but I started thinking ‘I can do this,’ so I went back to school and got retrained as a goldsmith,” Ross says. “I always had a creative personality, just no jewellery experience. The experience with our engagement ring was the nucleus of this career.” That experience led to the opening of Ross’s eponymous Uxbridge, Ontario boutique in 2006, where he designs and creates custom jewellery for clients.

Word got out and Ross saw the traffic in his boutique increase dramatically. “More and more, people came here to have their Dimples done. They were driving here from Toronto, London, Mississauga, Kingston, Ottawa...” Ross says. “We designed this to be scalable; if people are driving all the way over here to do this, it’s at a great inconvenience to them. At that point, we realized that it was the perfect time to get our line into other retailers.”

In 2008, another momentous milestone inspired Ross to create what became the seed for Dimples. “I was busy running the business, occupied with all of the things that occupy new business people, when we had a child. I became so busy, I felt like I was missing everything,” Ross says. “I wanted to find a way to hang on to those early days and it was only natural that jewellery was part of the solution. On a whim, I created an impression of my son’s finger [on a charm], as a Mother’s Day gift for my wife. She loved it and all of her friends with kids saw it and loved it as well. They came in and wanted one. I couldn’t believe this was happening and I knew I needed to figure out a way to accommodate all of these customers.”

By the tail end of 2011, Ross made Dimples available through eight independent Canadian retailers. Now, his charms can be procured at thirty stores, and he plans to keep expanding the reach. “With an impression, you get the size and shape of the fingerprint and this attribute makes it very appealing to customers. This is the reason why retailers who carry it are always enamoured by it,” Ross says.

In order to make the idea scalable, Ross innovated a process for mass production. With support from the National Research Council, he

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Not surprisingly, Ross would like to develop Dimples into a globally recognized brand. “We are where sentimentality meets that fashionable, edgy design sensibility,” says Ross. “We are trying to bring new aesthetics to traditional and sentimental jewellery to make it more modern and fashion-forward, as well as playful and creative. “That’s Dimples.” {CJ}

www.canadianjeweller.com

2013-03-12 7:17 PM

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13-03-12 4:22 PM

trainingfeature

The high cos t of education In an ever-evolving industry, business owners and employees must work together to stay on the cutting edge By Sa rah O’Con nor

rom the customer’s perspective, mysteries such as how precious gems form in the earth and how intricate pieces of jewellery are created only add to the romance and value. From a jeweller’s perspective, you can never be too well informed about the latest treatments and techniques on the market. In an industry that requires constant innovation, finding talented staff and investing in their ongoing education are keys to success.

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In a contemporary jewellery store, “you need to have one person on staff who is a gemmologist because you need to know what you buy and you need to know what you sell,” says Odile Civitello, owner of École de gemmologie de Montréal. Students come to Québec from all over the world to train at the École’s programs, including preparation for The Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s certification exam.

www.canadianjeweller.com

13-03-12 4:00 PM

trainingfeature

Civitello explains that because there are more and more types of treatments for stones — including diamonds, pearls and coloured stones — it is essential that at least one person in every jewellery store knows what to look for in order to ensure that both the retailers and the customers are making informed purchases. “Many jewellers say, ‘I trust my supplier’,” she says, pointing out that oftentimes jewellers work with sales representatives that have no training themselves. “The jeweller who has no training in gemmology has no choice but to trust.” At the same time, ethical business practices demand that jewellers are capable of explaining to their customers exactly what they are buying. “In the today’s market, the big motto is ‘disclose,’” Civitello explains. “As an appraiser, I often see people who have bought a diamond and think they made a good deal.”

“I’m really fortunate because most of my staff are my kids. It’s a real family business and it has been a family business for a long time,” says Mereski. “I used to look for people that had skills but as the years went by, I figured out that I needed to find a person that fit in with our family first, and then train them. When I agree to training, it costs me a bunch of money and it takes a long time, so I need to be sure that the person is going the right fit.” While various institutions offer training for goldsmiths, Mereski has found that there is no substitute for practical experience. Unfortunately, when it comes to training goldsmiths on the job, time is money. “Realistically speaking,” he says, “it takes three to five years to be really accomplished and productive before you start making money.” significant investment, considerable risks

There are a few options available to those who are interested in training in gemmology. Regardless, certification requires six months of intensive study and costs approximately $10,000 to $12,000. Civitello says that it’s an expense no jeweller can afford to skip. “If you have a reputable store, you need to have a professional on staff,” says Civitello. Should employees or business owners cover the costs of training and certification? “It should be half and half.” In order to protect their investment, Civitello recommends that business owners draft contracts with employees laying out in writing the details of their agreement.

Mereski estimates that between the cost of his time, the expense of paying someone while they learn, and the supplies & equipment, it costs between $30,000 and $40,000 to train an employee to a level of proficiency. Even after investing all that time and money, there are considerable risks. “Not everybody has what it takes to be good [at goldsmithing],” Mereski explains. “It’s just something that some people have. It’s the ‘right stuff.’ I’ve trained people for years and some of them were exceptionally good; others just didn’t have it. It’s a difficult thing to teach.”

Of course, a gemmologist’s education does not end once they are certified. “We tell our students, ‘We prepare you for the exam but once you graduate, you’re just beginning.’ Gemmologists always have to learn more and keep up to date. Professionals have no other choice than to keep learning,” she says.

Even if your pupils turn out to have talent, that can backfire. “The other problem you run into, particularly in this business, is you train a person and the next thing you know, they are your competition,” says Mereski. “ That’s why a lot of people really hold back from getting involved in training others. That’s a real issue.”

the right combination of Skill and personality

Dave Mereski, owner of The Goldworks Ltd., has hired and trained countless people over the 27 years he has been running a retail and repair store in Southern Alberta. He says that finding people with the right combination of skill and personality is his biggest challenge. “It’s really tough because there are not a million people out there with skill,” says Mereski.

Compared to three decades ago, has it become harder to find aspiring goldsmith employees with the skills and the personality to succeed? According to Mereski, it has actually became easier. He points to YouTube as a tremendous information resource for this category. “That’s a jeweller’s university right in front of you, in any home,” he says. “I wish I had YouTube when I first learned. There’s so much stuff on there; it’s absolutely amazing.

The Goldworks is a family-owned and -operated business specializing in the custom manufacturing and repair of fine jewellery. The business employs seven full-time goldsmiths, including several of Mereski’s children.

“Still, the biggest thing you need is equipment and a place to use it — both are expensive. For a person to start or get involved in the industry, they need to find someone who will give them the opportunity. That’s where it gets hard.” {CJ}

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| March/april 2013

13-03-12 4:01 PM

jvcfeature

Considering the crucial role of cooperation with law enforcement in the Canadian jewellery industry By Cpl. Kelly Ross, K Division Diamond program Coordinator, Edmonton Border Integrity

In 1996, JVC was approached by the RCMP to join in a partnership to help fight crime, with a particular focus on smuggling. At the time, I was a young RCMP who also happened to be a gemmologist. I originally participated in an RCMP jewellery workshop that JVC helped facilitate and as Canada became a major diamond-producing country, the JVC/RCMP partnership grew. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to take this opportunity to share with you some of the insights that we gleaned along the way.

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13-03-12 4:54 PM

jvcfeature

he Canadian jewellery industry is truly amazing and diverse. It has integrity and is open, friendly and proactive in its approach to eliminating crime. This is an important truth. My name is Kelly Ross and while what follows here constitutes simply, my observations, I believe Canada’s openness merits mentioning because, in many respects, it has proven unique and rare the world over. My observations are focused mainly on our industry’s people, ideals and culture, taken from the vantage point of a police officer with 10 years’ experience as coordinator of the RCMP Diamond program. I have worked with diamond producers, diamond cutters & polishers, jewellery manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers. I have enjoyed partnerships, collaborations and friendships. The formal RCMP and jewellery industry relationship was started in 1996 when the Jewellers Vigilance of Canada was approached by the RCMP to help our police better understand the jewellery industry. This partnership has grown over the years and in return the RCMP has provided advice, information on criminal activity and a point of contact to funnel specific concerns. Among the valuable services provided by JVC: assistance with law enforcement training, dissemination of crime bulletins to law enforcement and jewellers, and calculation of crime statistics.

These experiences, and virtually every contact I’ve had with the industry in my career, contradict a widely held notion that the jewellery industry is closed and secretive. In fact, I have found that the opposite is true and the industry at various levels has been more than happy to help law enforcement and share knowledge. Of course, there are some business practices that could be considered “secretive” to specific businesses and, to a lesser degree, to the industry as a whole; those rightfully remain undisclosed. Much of the secrecy is a function of personal security and self-preservation and a function of defeating criminals that would seek to attack us. It’s interesting to note that on a global scale, comparatively speaking, we have very few laws, regulations and licencing, provincially or federally, that over-arch the jewellery industry or the commodities involved. In a large way this is an industry that internally polices itself and has a significantly high degree of self-regulation and strength in integrity.

Statistics have become increasingly important to law enforcement, analysts and, more recently, government policy makers, as the information for this sector compiled by JVC is the only “crime-type specific” information available in Canada. JVC has continued to expand its assistance to law enforcement and now has contacts with investigators in virtually every major Canadian city.

In my law enforcement experience, I’ve had regular contact with investigators from other countries as well as numerous opportunities to discuss the variances in the jewellery industries from country to country. In recent international law enforcement meetings in the United States and Africa, I had the pleasure of discussing the positive attributes of the Canadian jewellery industry and the relationship law enforcement shares with the industry. This is both a rare and beautiful relationship and it exists in few other countries around the globe. It is difficult for some representatives to comprehend these partnerships and collaborations because in many countries, insofar as concerns industry/law enforcement relations, it would seem the opposite is true.

One of my first introductions to the jewellery industry was through an RCMP-sponsored training workshop held in collaboration with JVC. The workshop included several speakers from various levels of the jewellery industry who, on their own time and expense, discussed their business and the criminal-exploit opportunities that exist with jewellery and within the industry.

These relationships have flourished because the industry is proactive with a desire for ethical business practices, public transparency and commitment to marginalizing opportunities that could result in scrutiny and crime. In this respect, the Canadian jewellery industry is remarkable. From my point of view, it is something that anyone in the industry should be truly proud to be a part of. {CJ}

This article by Corporal Ross speaks to the integrity of our Canadian jewellery & watch industry and our relationship with law enforcement. By the time the story goes to print Cpl . Ross will have retired from the RCMP and moved on to a new career in banking. We at JVC will sorely miss Kelly’s professionalism and pa ssion . He cannot be replaced .

—Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, JVC

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| March/april 2013

13-03-12 4:55 PM

jvccrimereport

2012 Annual CRIME REPORT

JEWELLERS VIGILANCE CANADA Report Prepared by Janet Lamont, JVC Crime Analyst (This is Part One of our summary of JVC’s annual crime report. Part Two will run in the May issue of Canadian Jeweller.)

n 2012, the total dollar losses from crimes against jewellery companies in Canada, reported to Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), increased by 45 per cent to $14.5 million from $10.1 million in 2011. The total number of crimes reported to JVC increased from 100 to 128, an increase of 28 per cent. JVC does not capture internal theft numbers in its database. Criminologists and other learned individuals in Canada suggest internal crime contributes an additional 33 per cent to losses suffered by jewellers. Significant 2012 trends or changes include: • The number of incidents of off-premises attacks, primarily against travelling salespersons, increased 50 per cent from 2011, despite the decrease in the number of salespersons on the road due to the economy and the number of salespersons using security services to move product. • The number of on-premises robberies, primarily of retail jewellers, increased by 31.8 per cent from the previous year, and dollar losses increased 63.3 per cent. • In 2012, there were 43 arrests of suspects who committed crimes against the jewellery industry

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• The most active provinces were Ontario with 21 incidents, followed by Alberta with nine and Manitoba with seven. British Columbia, which was second in 2011, dropped to fourth place. JVC believes these numbers are significantly higher, since many jewellers do not report incidents to JVC or even the police. • In 2012, there were 43 arrests of suspects who committed crimes against the jewellery industry.

A L L L O S SE S/ E V E N T S I. DOLLAR AMOUNT OF LOSSES AND NUMBER OF INCIDENTS 2011 CATEGORY

Dollars

# Incidents

2012

Dollars

#Incidents

Break & Enter

$1,863,040

$1,743,575

Robbery

$5,655,814

$6,916,253

Theft

$2,605,446

$5,888,459

Totals

100

$10,124,300

128

$14,548,287

Available data on all crime categories indicates a 45 per cent increase in dollar losses and a 28 per cent increase in criminal events.

www.canadianjeweller.com

13-03-12 6:22 PM

jvccrimereport

I I . I N C I D E N T P E R C E N TA G E B R E A K D O W N CATEGORY

2011

2012

Robbery

28%

27.34%

Break & Enter

18%

10.9%

Theft

54%

61.7%

D. Most Active Month/Robbery in 2012 Most Active: January (20 per cent of total robbery events) Least Active: March, September, December

Robbery – Taking of property by use of force or fear.

E. Most Active Time of Day/Robbery In 2012, the greatest number of robberies occurred between 12:00pm and 10:00pm. The second-most active time of the day for a robbery to occur was between 10:00am and 11:00am.

Break & Enter – Entering premises after closing, with intent to commit a crime. Includes hiding in a jewellery location, taking product and breaking out after closing.

F. Most Active Days of Week/Robbery The most active day for robberies during 2012 was Tuesday, followed closely by Wednesday. The least active day was Saturday.

Theft – Taking of property without force or fear. Includes crimes such as cheque and credit card fraud, distraction crimes, diamond switches, sneak thefts and shipping losses that present evidence of criminal activity.

G. Percentage of Robbery Events with a Gun/Violence

III. ROBBERY A. Number of Robbery Events The number of robberies in 2012 increased by 25 per cent. There were 35 robberies reported to JVC in 2012 compared to 28 in 2011. B. Robbery Dollar Losses Robbery dollar losses increased by 21.05 per cent compared to 2011. Losses for 2012 were $6.9 million, up from $5.7 million. C. Most Active Province/Robbery — 6 Provinces Reported 2011

2012

Ontario

British Columbia

Alberta

Quebec

Saskatchewan

Newfoundland

Ontario, British Columbia and Alberta have the most jewellery outlets. Quebec has a large number but very few are members of JVC and very few reports are received from this province.

Robbery Events with a gun 2011

2012

43%

20%

Robbery Events with violence 2011

2012

75%

20%

I V. H O M I C I D E There were no homicides involving jewellery crime reported to JVC during 2012 or 2011. violent Incidents

2011

2012

Someone shot (not fatal)

Shots fired (no one hit)

In October 2012, during an in-store robbery at Erin Mills Town Centre in Mississauga, shots were fired. One round barely missed a salesperson. In another incident in 2012, a retail storeowner and a family member were badly beaten with a hammer. Police investigators described the incident as the most violent beating they have seen on video. These near-fatal incidents had the potential of adding homicides to the report. In 2011, one man was shot trying to aid a jeweller that was being robbed, and four shots were fired at a jeweller when he attempted to chase a grab & run subject.

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| March/april 2013

13-03-12 6:23 PM

jvccrimereport

V. B R E A K & E N T E R L O S S E S — $ 1 ,74 3 , 5 7 5

E. Most Frequent Points of Entry/All Burglaries In the one reported attempt to attack a safe, entry was gained by cutting a hole in an adjacent, unprotected wall.

A. Dollar losses for this category decreased by 10.5 per cent in 2012. Losses were $1,863,040.00 in 2011 compared to $1,743,575.00 in 2012. In 2011, 18 burglaries were reported to JVC and 14 in 2012. The average burglary loss was approximately $124,541.00. Law enforcement made one arrest for breaking and entering. B. Break & Enter Synopsis CATEGORY

2011

2012

$1.9 million

$1.7 million

Provinces reporting Loss amount Safe attacks Most active province Average safe attack

Ontario

2011

2012

Front door

39%

14.2%

Window

22%

14.2%

Wall

14.2%

Roof

Vehicle smash

28.5%

Rear Door

17%

21.4%

F. Rooftop Burglaries — Initial entry through a roof JVC received one report of a rooftop break & enter; it took place in Ontario. G. Most Active Province/Break & Enter

There was only one incident of a safe attack in 2011; it accounted for more than half the total amount of dollars lost in 2011 from break and enters. There was one attempted safe attack in 2012 but the suspects set wires on fire and f led without any merchandise. C. Three-Minute Entries — $1.7 Million Losses — 4 Provinces The following occurrences are identified as “Three-Minute Entries” because 3 min. is the approximate time required to complete the crime. These crimes are usually committed in the middle of the night by attacking a retail establishment’s glass front door or window, then smashing display cases and stealing merchandise not kept in a safe.

2011

2012

Ontario

50%

57.1%

British Columbia

22%

21.4%

Nova Scotia

11%

New Brunswick

Quebec

Alberta

21.4%

Manitoba

v i . T H E F T: $ 5 , 8 8 8 , 4 5 9 . 8 7 I N L O S S E S I N 2 0 1 2 ($ 2 . 6 L O S S E S , 2 0 1 1 )

D. (3M) Three-Minute Entry Frequency by day and month Day

ENTRY POINT

Month

THEFT

Incidents

Dollars

Distraction

$273,519

Grab & Run

$709,750

Mon

Jan

Aug

Tues

Feb

Sept

Smash & Grab

$119,000

Wed

Mar

Oct

Travelling Salesperson

$4,650,000

Thur

Apr

Nov

Diamond switching

$98,500

Fri

May

Dec

Transit/Other

$37,690

Sat

Jun

Total

$5,888,459

Sun

Jul

In 2012, there were 45 grab & run crimes reported to JVC, compared to 32 in 2011. Approximately 56.9 per cent of all thefts reported to JVC in 2012 were grab & run events. Theft from traveling salespeople represented 77.9 per cent of all theft-related dollar losses. { C J }

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www.canadianjeweller.com

13-03-12 6:23 PM

a coverstory

Reaching for the Zenith How a new CEO ha s taken a top Sw iss lu x ur y watch brand f ur ther By Iri na Ly tch a k

ean-Frederic Dufour likens himself to a “conductor leading an orchestra” in terms of his role as CEO of Zenith Swiss Luxury Watches. He describes the last four years at Zenith as nothing short of a complete brand transformation. From Zenith’s production facilities and watch collections to marketing strategies and the visual identity, everything has undergone a rejuvenation, while still paying homage to the storied brand’s love of tradition. “Until this point, Zenith has been everything except a marketing brand,” says Dufour. “Zenith has substance and a real heritage, even after nearly 150 years. It really is something unique. The watch industry landscape wouldn’t be what it is today without a brand like ours.” A life time opportunit y Before joining Zenith, Dufour enjoyed an accomplished background in the watch industry, spanning more than 20 years. He worked in manufacturing at Chopard, worked in sales at Ulysse Nardin and in marketing in Swatch Group, alongside Hublot CEO Jean-Claude Biver. He admits that he couldn’t pass up the chance to take the helm at Zenith when the opportunity arose. “Zenith is one of the top manufacturers in the Swiss watch industry. Having the chance to lead such a company is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity,” he says. “I didn’t want to miss out.” Dufour takes great pride in Zenith being one of four timepiece companies worldwide that manufactures 100 per cent of its own products. The others are Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Rolex. “Authenticity is our top value,” he says. “We manufacture products that last and we take into consideration the idea that the watch will be passed on from generation to generation. Today’s customers are people who are definitely tuned to the future and are conscious enough not to buy something that everyone can recognize. Our watches are known amongst a circle of connoisseurs and supersede the highest bar of expectations.”

Dufour is descended from a long line of Geneva engineers and industrialists. His grandfather founded a company that invented valveless electrical engines. Despite the fact that the Zenith CEO’s parents wanted him to be a banker, Dufour felt connected to the industrial world from very early on in life. A bal ance be t ween LIS TENING and cre ating “I love talking to people from the industry because they’re people with real problems,” he explains. “Inspiration and creativity for new products comes from both sides. You cannot only listen to the market and the consumers’ wishes. You also have to take into consideration how to produce the product and what you can realistically bring to consumers. It’s a balance between listening to customers and watchmakers, hatching new ideas and creating a product in between that balance.” This year, Zenith will once again be a part of Baselworld and JCK Las Vegas while continuing to expand overseas in countries like Canada. “Canada is definitely a place with big potential and all of our retailers who are currently selling Zenith in Canada are doing very well,” Dufour says. There are currently nine locations carrying Zenith watches in Canada, including Bandiera Jewellers, Raffi Jewellers, Calgary Jewellery and European Jewellery. Following a re-marketing initiative in 2009, Zenith has been steadily regaining its market share. “This industry has a great future,” Dufour says. “Our mission is to make our consumers happy.” His game plan is “to be creative, bring in new materials while respecting where we came from and trying to discover new technologies. “We cannot stay in the past, otherwise it’s not fun. We have to produce watches for today’s people.” {CJ}

www.canadianjeweller.com

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| March/april 2013

13-03-12 4:53 PM

productfocus

Metal in the mix How mixed metal became a timepiece trend to watch by Jeff EllioT t

Intermingling gold and silver is a dilemma with which jewellery wearers have been grappling for decades. Mixing the two was once considered a blunder in style etiquette so severe that donning metal adornments became more about picking a side than accessorizing an outfit. Though Cartier introduced the tri-colour gold Trinity watch back in 1924 and the ’80s were teeming with interwoven yellow, white and rose-gold herringbone chains, the style had difficulty shining through the dark, disapproving glares from fashion aficionados. Nowadays, with the popular resurgence of rose gold, brass and copper, it’s evident that these worlds are colliding, gracefully. The fashion faux pas of combining different-coloured metals isn’t as one-tone as it used to be. A FRESH ALTERNATIVE TO SOLID GOLD TONES

The rose gold phenomenon dominated runway fashion last season, and its prominence piqued the interest of those wishing to dabble in metal layering. From David Yurman to Michael Kors, beloved designers blithely plunged into the mixed-metal frenzy, incorporating different-coloured metals into pieces of their collections. “Consistently fresh, forward and attainable, Michael Kors continues to engage and excite his consumer,” says Lori Petteplace, marketing and PR specialist for Fossil Canada. “He has been a fashion leader because he designs his collections as a whole: the outfit, the watch, and the handbag.”

C on c e r t o Wa t c h (Mova do, $2, 395)

competitively priced — ranging from $90 to $2,000 and brought to market in a timely manner to respond to trends,” says Petteplace. According to Mary Leach, chief marketing officer of MOVADO Group Inc., fashion trends typically act as sources of inspiration, and are not always molds for designers to follow. “Understanding if the trend is toward a sporty look, a more formal approach or a mix of both becomes part of the design process,” Leach says. “Women are seeking a mixed material look that feels both sporty and glamorous.” The Movado Concerto, a special design that was launched a few years back, has received a phenomenally positive reaction from customers. The Ebel Onde, a stainless steel, 18k bezel with diamonds, was launched more recently and is getting a great response from wearers who wish to gorgeously dress it up. The Ebel X-1, however, lends itself to the sporty-chic consciousness. All of the Movado pieces range in price from just under $900 to $2,000. STATEMENTS THAT ARE WEARABLE EVERY DAY

The allure of mixed metal is a fresh alternative to solid gold tones. Men and women alike are now finding it pertinent to adhere to fashion accessories that pose as trendy, yet, symbolic timepieces. Two-tone watches with clean, symmetrical styling, such as Fossil’s Townsman and Heather models, promote this timeless sophistication. “Answering the demand for the new and the fresh is what a fashion watch is primarily predicated upon; it should be

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Jewellery wearers have quickly become mavens in their ability to marry watches with smaller delicate pieces, while insouciantly blending them with trending colours. For both men and women, Leach says that mixed-metal watches are still considered statements that are wearable every day — they can be dressed up or dressed down and are an effortless way of adding to other mixed metal jewellery.

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productfocus

Anne Sue-Ping, brand and marketing manager for Sequel Canada believes that mixed metal watches are key to helping wearers ease into ever-shifting trends while still being able to support their existing accessories. “We are seeing a lot of colour-blocking this season, for instance, and having contrasting metals in your accessories is a subtle way to add to this trend,” she says, pinpointing a collection of Guess watches that intermingle rose gold, gold and silver. “These tones are becom ing more popular, and the opulence of these colours make a watch shine.’

her own brand of mixed metal watches that aims to salvage and remodel previously loved metal. “Some of the metals I work with date back to the early 1900s, when times were less stressful — long before the existence of automobiles, microwave ovens and cell phones,” she says, referring to her efforts to emphasize the earthy, rich tones that can be achieved through mixing metals. “I wanted to use these forgotten treasures and time-worn castoffs as the metals are rich in history, mystery and have wonderfully engraved designs.”

Stephen Taylor, President of Bulova Watch Company Ltd., admits that mixed metal has been a lucrative segment of his company for multiple years. Highlighting their series of Caravelle and Precisionist Bulova watches, which amalgamate rose and yellow gold with stainless steel, he believes that the popularity of two-tone watches is attributable to the ease with which mixed metal can be matched with other jewellery. To be sure, a watch tends to dictate the direction of the rest of the day’s accessories. Modern-day metal coordination has become a breeze with the surge of rose gold because it blends beautifully when mixed with gold and silver, serving as a bridge between the two colours. “A mixed metal watch coordinates the wrist to what is worn on the hand,” says Fossil’s Petteplace. “A woman with a gold wedding band and a chunky sterling silver statement ring can cohesively time them together with a mixed metal watch and a collection of bracelets.”

The vast majority of Roy’s customers opt for copper and vintage silver-plated watches, and are elated with the fact that their jewellery was created by upcycling vintage metal. “The pieces have hidden beauty; they were discarded metal floating around out there with no further purpose,” she says, adding that she loves the way copper can be etched, patinated, formed and so easily blended with brass. “I also love the challenge of assembling forgotten treasures into a wearable piece of history.” While the history of metal adornments had a solid beginning, people are open to about wearing different-coloured metals. With the sleekness of stainless steel, the earthiness of brass and the warmth of gold, in any tone, the versatility of these watches makes donning the attire, and accompanying accessories, all the more invigorating. {CJ} P r e c i s i o n i s t Tw o - t o n e R o s e G o l d Wa t c h ( B u l o v a , $ 2 0 0 - $1 , 0 0 0)

RICH IN HISTORY AND MYSTERY

The acceptance of layering and the excessively ambrosial ‘arm candy’ movement, which lends itself to the return of vintage styles and the more muted metal tones that accompany it, has helped with incorporating mixed metals into daily life. Cowichan Valley-based entrepreneur and small business owner Mimi Roy, whose work can be found in quaint local shops on Vancouver Island and her Etsy store, is committed to building

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www.canadianjeweller.com

13-03-12 5:50 PM

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www.canadianjeweller.com

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Importer & Wholesaler of

South Sea,Tahitian, Akoya & Freshwater Pearls

55 Queen Street East, Suite 502 Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6 P: 416.363.0110 F: 416.363.2720 T: 1.888.435.9677 www.CrownPearl.com

Restore. Purchase. Sell.

Have you received a notice from FINTRAC?

With over 30 years of experience as a watch maker, restoration expert and luxury watch dealer, Sun Time Luxury is the only place for all of your luxury watch needs. 416.471.5088 suntimeluxury.com

Need help complying with anti-money laundering regulations? Call us, we know how to help: 1-877-366-0100 or www.GrantThornton.ca/AntiMoneyLaundering Conveniently located at

21 Dundas Square Toronto, Ontario

Armandor Enterprises Inc.

Ad-Bullion Mart copy.pdf 1 6/28/2012 12:03:25 PM

New Tel: 416.642.0280 New Fax: 416.642.0281 New Email: info@akbgold.com New Website: www.akbgold.com New Address: 107 Church St. Unit B1 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2G5

New Location in the heart of Downtown Toronto! Now Offering Casting Services

Chipped, burnt or broken? You know they’re hidden somewhere. . . in your safe or at the back of your drawer.

Our team of master diamond cutters and polishers can recut, re-polish and repair all your chipped, burnt and broken diamonds - not all damage is beyond repair.

We aim for AGS Ideal® Cut (the “Triple Zero”) wherever the diamonds allow. In addition to advanced planning and precision design, light performance on each diamond is assessed using AGS Performance Grading Software®.

CMY

EASTERN CANADA Evert P. Botha evert@embeediatech.ca WESTERN CANADA Doug Zmurchock doug@embeediatech.ca www.embeediatech.ca | www.facebook.com/embeediamonds

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(306) 763 3388 (780) 905 3684

www.canadianjeweller.com

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ss Gold Marketplace ad

2/25/09

3:11 PM

Page 1

marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com. EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD. PRECIOUS METALS DEALER

ExprEss Gold rEfininGLaLa ltd. ASSAYING • REFINING • • NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES • 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE

YOUR METALS DEALER LETPRECIOUS US EARN YOUR TRUST Web: www.xau.ca

Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111 21 Dundas 401, Toronto, ONmost M5B 1B7 Email: to provide youSquare, with Suite the fastest and accurate results. We info@xau.ca guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.

• Cutters of Rough Diamonds • Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes http://www.xau.ca 400 - 215 Victoria St, Toronto, ON M5B 1T9 • Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds Phone: 416.363.0584 | Toll-Free: 1.888.401.1111 Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE. Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.

Email: info@xau.ca

Over 20 Years Experience lala.diamond@hotmail.com

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc. \ Cutters of Rough Diamonds \ Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes \ Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds 21 Dundas Square, Suite 805 Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7

Ramesh Mistry Tel: 416-368-6883

A.B. MACHINERY Laser Welders Mettler Scales (Legal) ABM Gold Melters New and Used Machinery BUY – SELL – TRADE

Plastic Injectors

www.abmachinery.com

Actual size 3.9" by 2.0" New & Used

Tel: (514) 737-1660 Fax: (514) 737-9335

Toll Free: (888) 901-8888 Email: sales@abmachinery.com

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Refining - Assaying - Trading Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: www.refinegold.ca and www.goldrefiner.ca

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805 Sam Salehi Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7 President Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883 DYNAMIC GEMS GROUP INC. email: lala.diamond@hotmail.com Wholesale Diamonds and Jewellery www.venusgems.ca www.dynamicgems.com

27 Queen Street East #806 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 Tel: (416) 777 0010•(416) 306 0705 Fax: (416) 777 0021• Cell: (416) 566 5579 Email: ssalehi@live.com

classified A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY AVAILABLE

Building with 3 established jewellery businesses, located in North York, is looking to partner with a Benchman/Jeweller with OWN existing clientele and wants to expand. Must have considerable experience in all manner of Repairs & Stone Setting. Tel: 416.661.9362 Email: barry@djljewellery.com

COLOMBIAN EMERALD

STERLING SILVER IS SELLING

Larus Inc. the leader in Sterling Silver and Hand set Marcasite is looking for a highly motivated and experienced representative for Southwestern Ontario, British Columbia, and Manitoba/ Saskatchewan to join the highly successful and growing team. If you are interested in carrying the hottest silver lines in Canada, please submit a cover letter and your resume to Lawrence@larusjeweler.com

One of a kind, 130 (one hundred and thirty) carats Colombian emerald. Be the first one to own this treasure. Customs documents and appraisal certificate available. Tel: 403-254 0619 email:colombianemeraldsinc@hotmail.com

Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

Web:www.refinegold.ca

E-mail: info@refineallmetals.com WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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lastword

BY DA NA RE Y NOL DS

Na me d a f t e r O t t om a n S u l t a n S u le i m a n t he M a g n i f ic ent ’s f i r s t d a u g ht e r, M i h r i m a h’s C u f f b y L a nc e F i s c he r m i r r or s t he pr i nc e s s i n b o t h p o w e r a nd pr e s e nc e . C r e a t e d b y d e s ig ne r L a u r e nc e T. Hud d on , t h i s s t a t e me nt pi e c e i s m a d e f or a w om a n o f c h a r a c t e r, pr id e a nd p o w e r. I n s pi r e d b y t he f e a t he r e d f a n s o f t he 16t h c e nt u r y A n a t ol i a n c ou r t a nd f e a t u r i ng 14 k y e l lo w g old a nd s t e rl i ng s i l v e r, t he br a c e le t i s pu nc t u a t e d b y pi n k s a pph i r e s , d i a mond s a nd 5 3 c t s -w or t h o f z u l t a n i t e . Tr a n s l a t e d i nt o E ng l i s h , M i h r i m a h me a n s “S u n a n d Mo o n” — a f i t t i ng n a me f or a pi e c e t h a t s h i ne s s o br i l l i a nt l y, a nd s o p o w e r f u l l y. R e t a i ls f or $ 6 4 , 4 6 0

CJ M a r c h / a p r i l 2 0 1 3 |

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