CJ March 2015

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

MARCH 2015

Canadian Jeweller Magazine jeweller to teacher – TOOLS FOR From who would’ve thought?

TEACHING Help your client look their STYLE best with these classics COUNCIL

BEYOND THE BUY

Developing loyalty with a program that works for you

EN FRANÇAIS Quand bijoux et célébrités font bon ménage

Dane Stevens Cavalier Jewellers Breaking the mould

CMCA AUDITED

4 2 7 0 9 01 3 | 1 2 3 5 B AY S T R E E T W E S T S U I T E 4 0 0 T O R O N T O O N TA R I O M 5 R 3 K 4

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27 Queen St. East Suite 1104, M5C 2M6

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Georgia May Jagger

CONTACT: 1 800 361 4611 INFO@THOMASSABO.CA

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EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime.

Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it.

Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

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MARCH 2015

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol. 136 / No. 02

Marco Miserendino, Bijouterie Italienne

"My experience as a member of the Editorial

Board of Canadian Jeweller has been both educational and novel. It has led me to explore my thoughts on what the magazine brings to its readers, most of them jewellery store owners like myself. My story will probably reflect many of your stories.”

OLI V IER FELICIO LUC Y HOLDEN I R I N A LY T C H A K SCOT T JOR DA N KAITLIN YEP

CONTRIBUTORS

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Associate Publisher / lucy@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / irina@canadianjeweller.com Art Director / scott@rivegauchemedia.com Junior Designer / kaitlin@rivegauchemedia.com

Maria Laura Barreto, Véronique Dubé, Nikki Fotheringham, Ryan Holtz, Katie Huisman, Larry Johnson, John Lamont, Liza Marley, Duncan Parker, Todd Wasylyshyn

Editorial Board SALES LUC Y HOLDEN

Jean-Christophe Bédos Birks, President & CEO

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6117 / email: lucy@canadianjeweller.com

Haigo Derian L’Oro Jewellery HEAD OFFICE

Gino DeVuono Movado Group of Canada

1235 Bay Street, Suite 400, Toronto, Ontario M5R 3K4 tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive

MELANIE SETH

Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada

MONTREAL OFFICE

Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com 230-2451 Chemin Lucerne, Montreal, QC H3R 2K5 tel: 514-381-5196 fax: 514-381-6223

Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc. Phyllis Richard Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. Mano Rupra TimeRevolution.com Beth Saunders Canadian Jewellery Group Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd.

SUBSCRIPTION RATES Canada — one year, $50; two years, $85; three years $120. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) plus applicable taxes. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40.

Bulk rate (Canada only, for six or more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per year.

Steve Turac Turac Luxury Group Inc.

CHANGE OF ADDRESS email: circulation@canadianjeweller.com telephone: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392 or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller 1235 Bay St., Suite 400, Toronto, ON. M5R 3K4

Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Mart Inc.

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PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 1235 Bay St., Ste. 400, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4.

MARCH 2015

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Friday, May 29 – Monday, June 1, 2015 Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino Las Vegas REGISTER TODAY AT JCKONLINE.COM/LASVEGAS STAY CONNECTED

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Departments

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Contents 12 EDITOR’S LET TER 13 CONTRIBUTORS / BEHIND THE SCENES

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14 WHAT'S ON 16 PRODUCT SHOWCASE

68 SHOWCASE / MARKETPL ACE

22 FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events

72 ST YLE COUNCIL Working with classics

32 STAR WATCH Stepping out in style

74 L AST WORD Royal obsession: Breguet

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34 CJ GALLERY Say "hello" to spring with Pandora; Let's celebrate! Joolz - Bar a Bijoux's one-year anniversary 36 ON THE COVER: CAVALIER JEWELLERS A not so traditional west coast jewellery store that caters to the average guy looking for the perfect ring

CJ en français 42 LES NOUVELLES

by Irina Lytchak

45 QUAND BIJOUX ET CÉLÉBRITÉS FONT BON MÉNAGE

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March 2015 cover photographed

^ Next issue spotlight:

by Katie Huisman

Darren Bondar of WATCH IT!

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Features & Columns

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Contents 52 18 FEATURE: YOUR BASELWORLD PREVIEW This year's show promises to shock and awe - here's a little taste of what's to come 48 FEATURE: EDUCATING YOUR CONSUMER Today's customer is teachable and you, the retailer, have the tools to be the teacher

by Nikki Fotheringham

31 MINING COLUMN From conflict minerals to peace minerals

by Maria Laura Barreto

60 GEMS & GEMMOLOGY The art of jewellery

by Duncan Parker

52 FEATURE: REWARDS AND LOYALT Y PROGR AMS The relationaship that goes beyong the buy

by Liza Marley

62 RETAIL COLUMN Become a jewellery practitioner in three easy steps

by Todd Wasylyshyn

56 FEATURE: L’ÉCOLE DE JOAILLERIE DE MONTRÉAL A birthplace of spectacular ideas, this school celebrates its 40th anniversary.

64 MARKETING MAGIC To post or not to post...

by Véronique Dubé

by Ryan Holtz

66 JVC REPORT What you can do to avoid inventory loss

by John Lamont

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Editor’s Letter

Going digital Irina Lytchak, Managing Editor

UNLESS YOU’VE BEEN LIVING UNDER A ROCK, most of you know how powerful the digital world has become, especially when it comes to marketing and advertising your own store and/or brand.

I recall speaking with some of you a few years back on the topic of social media and the impacts of having a Facebook page for your store — there were a few of you who were somewhat put off by the idea.

And now look how things have changed. I’m pleased to see that so many of our industry members are riding the digital wave. Not only do most of you have Facebook pages and Twitter accounts, but you’re also dabbling with Instagram and Pinterest! And no wonder! Instagram has more than 200 million users to date and shows no signs of slowing down.

Can you even imagine that some of you were hesitating going online, let alone creating a website for your store only a mere few years ago?

In the spirit of going digital, you may have noticed that we’re all about providing you with the information you need to make the most of the online world and the digital tools that lie at your fingertips.

In this issue, be sure to flip to page 64 for Ryan Holtz’s column on posting etiquette. Ryan is a social media guru who has been contributing to Canadian Jeweller Magazine for several months now and he’s always happy to answer any of your social media/marketing/digital related questions via info@ ryanholtz.ca.

As for our cover star, he alone can tell you a thing or two about the magic of Instagram. We had the pleasure of teaming up with Dane Stevens of Cavalier Jewellers in Vancouver, B.C. for this issue’s cover story. Dane and his team know all about the power of social media and online marketing, especially since their store’s Instagram account boasts over 4,000 followers and counting!

And on that note, I want to challenge the few of you who are still avoiding the big (and very useful) step into the digital world to face your fears! Just remember: you have nothing to lose! CJ

Photograph by Jacqueline Hornyak

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Katie Huisman

Katie is a photographer based in Vancouver, B.C. When she’s not busy shooting advertising and editorial work for her Canadian client base, she enjoys cycling around the city, avidly running in Stanley Park or traveling south in search of warm surf. Katie shot this issue’s cover guy Dane Stevens and the Cavalier Jewellers story on page 36.

Ryan Holtz

Ryan Holtz is an internationally recognized automotive marketer, social media expert and renowned keynote speaker. He has established himself as a trainer, public speaker and overall marketing force. Known for his energy and “just do it” attitude, we’re so pleased that Ryan has joined our roster of columnists. You can find his column in this issue on social media posting etiquette on page 64.

Véronique Dubé

Luxury goods and lifestyle writer, freelance translator and independent journalist, Véronique has more than 10 years experience in the jewellery and advertising sectors. As a self-confessed “enthusiast of beautiful things”, she explores the culture of fashion, jewellery, art de vivre and food in her many articles. For this particular issue, Véronique wrote an insightful piece on l’École de Joaillerie de Montréal on page 56 in addition to her regular French Section contributions found on page 42.

Contributors

Behind the Scenes For this issue, we found ourselves on the West Coast once again but this time to photograph the really affable co-owner of Cavalier Jewellers, Dane Stevens. Stevens and his partner as well as childhood friend Keith Seabrook (yes, of Bridgeport Sound Tigers fame) decided to open Cavalier Jewellers almost two years ago and they haven’t looked back since.

“We’re still new, so anytime I can ensure that the customer doesn’t leave the store, I feel like my job is done,” says Stevens. “Our customers can literally have anything they want so that’s what I hope we become known for.”

Cavalier Jewellers is found in the historically rich and strikingly beautiful district of Gastown in Vancouver, B.C. so it was only natural that we once again enlisted the very talented Katie Huisman to capture the essence of this store.

We were blown away by Cavalier Jewellers’ unique take on selling engagement rings and we hope to see them prosper for many years to come! CJ Be sure to check out the digital edition and canadianjeweller.com to view a Behind the Scenes video of this shoot!

MARCH 2015

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What’s On

Gear up for the year by staying informed on what shows are bound to be the biggest hits in 2015.

The following is a list of key dates, location and contacts for the top shows around the world in the coming months to make YOUR life easier:

Trade Shows

Also, be sure to check out canadianjeweller.com for an online calendar listing the major shows for 2015.

March: March 3 – 6: Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair (Hong Kong) asiafja.com March 4 – 8: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (Wan Chai, Hong Kong) hktdc.com March 5 – 8: Best Adornments of Russia (Moscow, Russia) junwex.com March 8 – 10: MJSA New York (New York, USA) mjsa.org March 12 – 15: Istanbul Jewelry Show (Istanbul, Turkey) ubmrotaforte.com March 13 – 15: The Gem Expo- Spring (Toronto, Canada) thegemexpo.com March 18 – 21: XII International Baltic Jewellery Show ‘Amber Trip’ 2015 (Vilnius, Lithuania) ambertrip.com March 19 – 26: Baselworld 2015 (Messe Basel, Switzerland) baselworld.com March 23 – 24: International Watch and Jewelry Guild Show (Las Vegas, USA) iwjg.com March 22 – 25: Quebec Gift Fair (Montreal, Canada) cangift.org March 22 – 25: Jewellery & Gem Fair (Freiburg, Germany) jewellerynetasia.com March 25 – 28: Amberif-International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones (Gdansk, Poland) amberif.pl March 28 – 29: Pier Antique Show (New York, NY) usantiqueshows.com March 31 – April 4: 38th MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show (Sharjah, UAE) mideastjewellery.com

April: April 9 – 12: Junwex Ekaterinburg (Ekaterinburg, Russia) junwex.com April 17 – 19: Mid-South Jewelry and Accessories Fair (Memphis, TN) helenbrett.com April 20 – 22: China Int’l Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair- Shenzhen (Shenzhen, Guandong Province, China) jewellerynetasia.com April 22 – 25: American Gem Society’s Conclave 2015 (New Orleans, LA) americangemsociety.org

April 25 – 27: Jewelers International Showcase (Miami Beach, FL) jisshow.com April 24 – 26: Colorado Mineral & Fossil Show (Denver, CO) mzexpos.com April 27 – 28: International Watch and Jewelry Guild Show (Brooklyn, NY) iwjg.com

May: May 3 – 6: International Fashion Jewelry & Accessory Show (new York, NY) ifjag.com May 8 – 10: Gem & Lapidary Trade Show (Franklin, NC) glwshows.com May 13 – 15: IJK International Jewellery Fair Kobe (Kobe, Japan) reedexpo.com May 15 – 17: West Coast Gem & Mineral Show (Santa Ana, CA) mzexpos.com May 15 – 18: FACETS Sri Lanka Congress Gem Show (Colombo, Sri Lanka) facetssrilanka.com May 15 – 18: VicenzaOro Spring (Vicenza, Italy) vicenzafiera.it May 15 – 18: International Jewelry and Merchandise Show (New Orleans, LA) helenbrett.com May 16 – 19: International Colored Gemstone Association Congress 2015 (Colombo, Sri Lanka) gemstone.org May 17 – 20: Santa Fe Symposium (Albuquerque, N.M.) santafesymposium.org May 25 – 26: International Watch and Jewelry Guild Show (Las Vegas, NV) iwjg.com May 25 – 28: GLDA Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Show (Las Vegas, NV) glda.com May 26 – 28: LUXURY – Invitation only (Las Vegas, NV) reedexpo.com May 29 – June 1: Swiss Watch – By appointment only (Las Vegas, NV) reedexpo.com May 28 – June 1: AGTA GemFair at the JCK Las Vegas Show (Las Vegas, NV) agta.org May 28 – June 1: Couture (Las Vegas, NV) ja-newyork.com May 29 – June 1: JCK Las Vegas (Las Vegas, NV) reedexpo.com

April 24 – 26: Toronto Jewellery Gem & Mineral Show (North York, ON) torontogemshow.com

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Jewelry with the

moves

moving centre stone to your Heart Beats...

Rousseau Chain is the exclusive

Canadian distributor and patent holder for tuning fork mechanism 1-800-661-4460

New Styles Coming Soon CJ MARCH 2015_FP.indd 19

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Product Showcase

Atlantic Engraving New from our Passion Noir Collection, a gentlemen’s and ladies’ matching duo of a 10k white gold, 6mm comfort fit set with 4 x 0.015cts and a 14k red gold comfort fit set with 4 x 0.01cts, diamond cut on seamless tubing blanks.

GIA

Introducing the GIA 4Cs App – Retailer Edition for iPad. GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used at point of sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate customers about how GIA grades the 4Cs and offers direct access to GIA’s online database of GIA reports.

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MARCH 2015

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REIGN

by PAJ

An exquisite collection of luminous sterling silver designs adorned with the flawless brilliance of Diamondlite cubic zirconia, exclusive to PAJ. Experience the elegance of perfectly cut, diamond-like cubic zirconia that will sparkle endlessly from day to night. Unparalleled in quality, these timeless pieces are dipped in rhodium, 18k yellow or rose gold for a lustrous, radiant finish that will withstand the test of time.

MARCH 2015

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Basel Preview

Set your watch to…

Basel The watches. The opulence. The prestige.

Baselworld 2015 is here. Set in the picturesque town of Basel, Switzerland, show exhibitors promise to outdo themselves every year and 2015 is no different. Here’s just a taste of what to expect at this edition of Baselworld…

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1. Champs Elysees, Estelle 2. Zenith, Academy Georges Favre-Jacot 3. Carl F. Bucherer, Patravi ScubaTec 4. Breitling, Chronoliner

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5. Tissot, Tissot Vintage 6. Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Alliance Lady 7. Omega, Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Limited Edition 8. Cover, CoA10 Watchmaker Limited Edition 9. Claude Meylan, LAC « Tortue de Joux » 10. Bovet 1822, Amadeo Fleurier Tourbillon Braveheart 11. Rado, HyperChrome Plasma Diamonds Limited Edition

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For The Record

News/Trends/Events

Michael Hill’s Canadian sales jump 18.5% Michael Hill stores announced that revenues increased by 3.9 per cent year on year to reach $227 million for the six months that ended on December 31.

On a same-store basis, sales rose 0.8 per cent.

In Canada, Michael Hill sales jumped 18.5 per cent to $38 million (or $44.9 million CAD) while in Australia, the retailer’s largest market, sales fell 0.7 per cent to $137 million.

In New Zealand, revenues jumped by 3.8 per cent to $50 million and reached $6 million in the U.S.

Sears Canada appoints Ron Boire as CEO and president Sears Canada has recently appointed Ronald Boire as the company’s president and CEO. Boire was previously the interim president and CEO since last October. Prior to this role, Boire served as chief merchandizing officer and president of the Sears and Kmart stores in the U.S. He has also worked in senior roles at Toys R’ Us, Best Buy and Sony Electronics. Boire is taking over for Douglas Campell, who announced last September that he will be stepping down from his role due to personal reasons.

Frederick Goldman purchases Scott Kay Previously competitors in the bridal jewellery segment, Frederick Goldman has purchased the assets of Scott Kay for an undisclosed amount. According to Chairman and CEO of Frederick Goldman, Jonathan Goldman, the deal was not on the table prior to the tragic death of Scott Kay. The Scott Kay brand will continue to operate out of its Teaneck, N.J. headquarters as a wholly owned subsidiary of Frederick Goldman. According to Goldman, most of the staff will continue with the Scott Kay brand, including Tiffany Kay, Scott’s daughter and VP of merchandising.

David Minister, CEO of Scott Kay, will be leaving his position while Adam Gurian, Frederick Goldman’s executive VP of global sales and merchandising, will step into the role of general manager for Scott Kay and will operate out of the NYC headquarters.

According to Goldman, the purchase was made due to Scott Kay’s strong brand name recognition, higher price points and a vast array of high quality designs left behind by Scott Kay.

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CNW Group/Sears Canada Inc.

Tiffany & Co. appoints former Saks CMO as new VP for North America Jennifer de Winter has stepped into the role of senior vice president for Tiffany & Co. North America after previously serving as the chief merchandising officer at Saks Fifth Avenue, where she worked for 20 years.

According to Jill Beraud, executive vice president of Tiffany & Co., “Managing our largest sales region, which comprises the United States and Canada, Jennifer will leverage her strong leadership and expertise in retail operations and merchandising to drive sales growth across the domestic and global tourist customer base.”

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Fancy colour diamond prices show stability in Q4 2014 According to The Fancy Color Diamond Index (The Index), which was developed by The Fancy Color Research Foundation (The FCRF), fancy colour diamonds are continuing to display steady pricing in Q4 of 2014.

Ishaia Gol, a member of the board of advisors for The FCRF, commented, “Unsurprisingly, the fourth quarter data collected by the FCRF team reaffirms our knowledge and understanding from the last decade that fancy colour diamonds are a separate niche, almost non-correlated to white diamonds.

Fancy colour diamonds are rare and highly desirable. In periods of financial instability we have witnessed time and again that collectors, retailers and investors are able to maintain their assets’ value even as other asset classes are depreciating in price. This is caused by the inherent lack of global inventory, which is only projected to worsen in coming years. Our data contributors are reporting decline in number of transactions, mainly as a result of political developments in China.”

We previously reported about The Index being first launched in November 2014 with the purpose of measuring and analyzing the performance of rare diamonds as an alternative asset class. The Index has revealed that fancy colour diamonds, across the categories of pinks, yellows and blues, have increased in value by 167 per cent on average since January 2005, outperforming other leading assets in a similar period. The Dow Jones industrial average, for example, has increased 58 per cent, Standard & Poor’s 500 has increased 63 per cent and London house prices have increased 82.1 per cent.

According to the most recent Index read in January 2015, fancy colour diamonds remained unchanged in the period between October 1 and December 31, 2014.

De Beers reports profit rise of 33% Over the past year, De Beers’ profits increased by more than 33 per cent and operating profits over the fiscal year 2014 grew to $1.4 billion. According to a statement from majority owner Anglo American, De Beers’ revenue improved by 11 per cent to reach $7.1 billion, of which more than 90 per cent came from rough diamond sales that also grew by 12 per cent to $6.5 billion.

CEO of Anglo American, Mark Cutifani, says that De Beers makes up for 28 per cent of the company’s profits, making it the second largest contributor for Anglo American. According to De Beers CEO Philippe Mellier, “the selling season around Christmas was a little below what we were expecting” but sales in the U.S. were strong for most of the year.

Luxury jeweller Lao Feng Xiang set to open first Canadian store in Vancouver According to Retail Insider sources, Lao Feng Xiang, a large Chinese jewellery corporation, will be opening its first Canadian location in Vancouver. The new store is set to be located on Alberni Street in what is deemed a “luxury district,” which also houses names like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., Montblanc, Gucci, De Beers, Escada, and Burberry.

Lao Feng Xiang was founded in 1848 and has been in business for over 160 years, retailing gold, silver, diamonds, jade and pearls. The company operates 2,700 locations around the world with more coming soon to Canada.

Laval jeweller makes comeback 7 years after violent robbery Meir Kramer of Bijouterie Geneve on Samson Boulevard in Laval, Quebec was violently attacked in his jewellery store seven years ago and now the 62-year old is back at the store.

Sima Kramer, Meir’s wife, says that her husband has come back to work to help her out with store operations but that he is still recuperating.

On October 22, 2008, two thieves posing as customers entered the store and attacked Kramer before stealing hundreds of thousands of dollars worth in jewels.

The incident caused Meir severe brain damage but the jeweller is back at work, serving customers, repairing watches and serves as an inspiration for his wife and other members in the community.

Unfortunately, the two robbery suspects remain on the loose but Laval police continue to stay on the case.

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For The Record

Strong attendance and high buying numbers at JCK Tucson JCK Tucson opened at the JW Marriott Starr Pass Resort & Spa last week to strong attendance numbers. This year’s participating retailers include Ben Bridge Jewelers of Seattle, Lee Michaels Jewelers of Baton Rouge, Smithworks Fine Jewelry of Spartanburg, Tiffany & Co of New York and Underwoods of Jacksonville to name few.

According to exhibitors, buying numbers were strong right from the start as visitors were given the opportunity to see over 140 unique designers and brands as well to participate in a variety of networking events.

The show covered silver, fashion, men’s, bridal, gemstones and designer collections. The expanded Design Center also attracted a lot of interest, housing some of the hottest trends and freshest takes from around the world.

Swarovski debuts first-of-its-kind boutique in Vegas Swarovski is debuting a first-of-its-kind boutique at the Grand Bazaar Shops in Las Vegas. The new boutique will feature a custom-designed, 14-foot in diameter crystal and LED light Swarovski Starburst installation reminiscent of a disco ball that’s generally used to bring in the New Year.

The free-standing pavillion, a first for Swarosvki, will feature an exterior composed of dozens of large, angular facets designed to make the structure resemble a cut crystal.

According to a press release from the brand, “Inside, the boutique boasts hand-selected finishes — such as linen, paper and burlap forms and inlays — from floor to ceiling, distinguishing it from every other Swarovski boutique in the world. Eye-catching lighting features crystal-enhanced glass spheres playfully suspended from the ceiling, while specially crafted panels provide an artful platform for the presentation of Swarovski jewellery and décor.”

“Swarovski is excited to be part of the unique retail environment at Grand Bazaar Shops,” says Jean-Jacques Sebbag, senior vice president, Swarovski North America Limited’s Consumer Goods Business. “We look forward to the Swarovski Starburst becoming a new icon on the Las Vegas Strip.”

Diamond production set to rise but prices will fall According to a study by Paul Zimnisky, global rough diamond production is set to hit over 135 million carats in 2015, which is an increase of 3 per cent from the 131 million carats produced last year.

Meanwhile, the global price for 2015 is expected to drop by 2 per cent from 2014 down to $103 per carat.

Zimnisky writes that, “Last year prices were down an estimated three to five per cent as the closure of Antwerp Diamond Bank in October led to industrywide liquidity concerns for rough diamond buyers. In addition, a slowergrowing Chinese economy, deflationary pressures in Japan and the EU, and multiple geopolitical tensions, led to downward pressure on rough prices which is expected to carryover into H1 2015.”

The increase of the USD has both negative and positive impacts on the diamond industry.

“A strong U.S. dollar also played a role in recent diamond price weakness, given that diamonds are typically denominated in dollars. However, this foreign exchange effect can also have a positive impact on miners that account for operating expenses in dollars; for instance, wages paid in local currency are relatively “less expensive” when converted to dollars. A lower oil price should also have a favorable impact on miners as haul trucks, generators, and some grids are powered by diesel.”

Guess wins case against Gucci The long court battle over trademark issues between the Gucci and Guess brands concluded in France on January 20 in Guess’ favour. The Court of Paris rejected every claim stated by Gucci in a comprehensive 44-page ruling and found no trademark infringement, no counterfeiting and no unfair competition.

The Court also denied Gucci’s request for €55 million in damages and instead, ordered Gucci to pay Guess €33,000. The court also invalidated three of Gucci’s “G” trademarks, which means that the luxury brand cannot claim exclusive use to those marks any longer.

According to Guess Co-Founder and CEO Paul Marciano, “For six years now, Gucci has filed case after case against Guess and lost time after time.

On top of that, Gucci has lost some trademarks in the Italian case and now some in France as well. I continue to believe strongly that all these legal battles are a complete waste of time and this energy and money should be focused on business. Obviously, FH Pinault doesn’t see it that way.”

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New diamond project announced in Nunavut, adding to Canada’s total mine count Arctic Star Exploration Corp. announced the full acquisition of the Stein Diamond Property in Nunavut, Canada. Located 85km northwest of Taloyoak, Nunavut, the Stein property is made up of four contiguous prospecting permits covering an area of 105,637 hectares on the Boothia Peninsula.

An advanced diamond exploration project, the Stein property was acquired as part of Arctic Star’s on-going strategic analysis of exploration data in the public domain. The exploration is set to start in the spring and summer of this year. The Stein property was one of the prospective diamond exploration programs that were halted during the time of the global financial crisis in 2008.

MARCH 2015

15-02-24 3:39 PM

Stuller announces 2015 Bench Jeweler Workshop

Walmart announces expansion in Canada with 11 new stores Walmart has announced that it aims to open 11 new supercentres across Canada this year. This announcement comes following a previous plan to open 35 supercentres across the country by January 2015. Once all of the new locations have been unveiled, Walmart Canada’s total store count will reach 394, which includes 280 supercentres and 114 discount stores.

In February 2014, Walmart announced a venture to invest close to $500 million CAD over the year. Of this plan, more than $376 million CAD was put towards store projects while $91 million CAD was allotted to fresh foods initiatives and $31 million CAD went to e-commerce projects. The plan to expand created more than 7,500 jobs across the country, boosting Walmart’s presence in Canada. Walmart first opened its doors north of the border in 1994 and currently runs operations in the U.K., South America and China.

Stuller’s annual Bench Jeweler Workshop held at the company’s Louisiana headquarters from March 27 to 29 will be featuring new educational classes.

Jewellers from all over the country will participate in two days of experiencing the latest tools, learning from other industry professionals, networking with their peers, and getting hands-on experience using new techniques and equipment.

The workshop will also include demonstrations and in-depth seminars that will explore continuing education for jewellers, current issues that are of importance to retailers and sales teams, and Basic Diamond Grading.

“There’s something here for everyone, from novice to pro,” says Darrell Warren, vice president of merchandising. “Take classes that interest you, visit skill and product demos, talk shop with other jewellers, and be among the first to handle new products and technology debuting in the industry – it’s all here at the Workshop.”

One of the new classes focuses on jewellery photography and will explore what images are best suited for online use and the importance of photography during the repair process.

“We open our home to share what we’re learning and the challenges we’re facing, but also to hear about the struggles and triumphs from jewellers across the country,” says Tammy Kidder, vice president of merchandising.

“When we all come together to support our peers in the industry, that’s when the true value of the Workshop really shines through.”

U.S. jewellery, watch and metal price index results for 2014 The U.S. consumer price index (CPI) for jewellery dropped 5.1 per cent to 161.75 points in December, the lowest since July of 2010 and 4 points lower than in November of 2014.

Meanwhile, the CPI for watches dropped by only 1 per cent to 119.73 points. The average CPI for 2014 increased by 0.5 per cent and closed at a record high of 122.2 points.

On the other hand, the RapNet Diamond Index (RAPI) for 1.00ct diamonds dropped 8.7 per cent year on year, 6.6 per cent for 3.00ct diamonds, and 6.5 per cent for 0.30ct diamonds. According to RAPI, prices for 0.50ct diamonds increased by 0.1 per cent.

When it comes to gold, prices fell by 1.5 per cent compared to the previous year and silver soared 19 per cent.

MARCH 2015

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25 15-02-24 3:39 PM

For The Record

Canada’s Crossworks Manufacturing lands on Rio Tinto’s list of Select Diamantaires

Jennifer Lopez stars as the face of Endless Jewelry’s latest collection

Rio Tinto has unveiled a list of 17 diamond manufacturers that have received long-term contracts to buy rough diamonds from the metals and mining company this year. One of the clients that made the list, known as a Select Diamantaire, is Crossworks Manufacturing, producer of branded Canadian diamonds.

The 17 diamond manufacturers have been listed on Rio Tinto’s website but the company revealed that the final decision for its 2015 and 2016 supply period will be made before the end of the first half of this year.

According to Patrick Coppens, general manager of sales at Rio Tinto Diamonds, a minimum of 70 per cent of the company’s diamond are made available to its list of Select Diamantaires.

Earlier reports from Rio Tinto showed that production from its three diamond mines has decreased by 14 percent year on year to 13.872 million carats as a result of a new transition from open-pit to underground mining at its Argyle mine in Australia. Rio Tinto also owns a 60 per cent stake in the Diavik mine in Canada while Dominion Diamond Corporation owns the rest.

The Select Diamantaires will be supplied from Diavik for a total of two years and a total of three years from Argyle. Other names on the Select Diamantaires list according to Rio Tinto’s website include Dimexon Diamonds Ltd., Gemmata N.V., Interjewel Pvt. Ltd., IDH Diamonds N.V., Venus Jewel, Signet Direct Diamond Sourcing Ltd., and Sheetal Group.

Endless Jewelry has partnered with Jennifer Lopez to unveil the brand’s Spring 2015 collection. The singer has designed a line of customizable bracelets and 42 charms in time for the brand’s SS2015 launch. Lopez is also signed under a three-year contract with the jewellery brand headed by Jesper Nielsen.

According to InStyle, Lopez says, “My collection of charms with Endless are elegant yet whimsical. The bracelets are fun and fashionable and allow you to design and reflect your own personal style.”

Endless has already given some hint as to what the new designs will be, including rose gold-plated charms and bracelets in metallic creme and metallic anthracite, adding to the brand’s existing line of signature red, gold and black wrap bracelets.

“2014 was a remarkable year for Endless Jewelry. We entered 2,500 new stores in 18 different countries and now have more than 3,300 points of sale,” said Jesper Nielsen, Endless Jewelry founder and CEO. “We introduced the award-winning Jennifer Lopez Collection by Endless Jewelry with Jennifer Lopez as co-designer, we broke all sales records at the JCK Fair when we launched in U.S. in early June and we ended up being sold out in several markets even before we advertised.”

Canadian online consumers to avoid cross-border shopping due to decreasing dollar The Canadian dollar continues to drop, falling below the 80 cent brink to reach a record low in almost six years. As a result of this, Canadian shoppers are set to keep their shopping habits on this side of the border instead of buying from U.S. shopping sites, which has been a strong trend over the past few years when the U.S. and Canadian dollar were almost on par.

Cross-border shopping will not end completely as there are still items that Canadians vie for unique to American retailers but the overall trend to shop in Canada, online and in-store, is the way of the near future.

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MARCH 2015

15-02-24 3:40 PM

Our deepest condolences to the Courchesne Family We are very sorry to report the passing of Francois Courchesne in Montréal on January 5, 2015 at the age of 82. Father of Jean-Francois Courchesne, President of Groupe Courchesne. M. Francois Courchesne also leaves behind his wife, Monique Laperrière, and his daughters, Jacinthe and Claudine.

Francois Courchesne was a pioneer in the Canadian jewellery industry since 1952. He started as a sales representative for several major Canadian manufacturers and built a national jewellery manufacturing company in the 1970s in Montréal. He was the instigator of jewellery shows in Quebec. He was also the importer and distributor of Hirsch watch bracelets since 1979 and Connoisseurs since 1995. Francois Courchesne was well appreciated by jewellers all over Canada. He was known for his impeccable dress code, his good spirit and his love for the finer things in life. A proud French Canadian, resilient in the storms of the industry in the 80s and 90s, he remained proud and honest and kept a good spirit. For more details, please call Groupe Courchesne at 1-800-361-0401.

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MARCH 2015

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27 15-02-24 3:40 PM

For The Record

Rafael Amador takes over as new Marketing Director for United PMR

Harry Winston announces partnership with amfAR International fine jeweller and watchmaker Harry Winston has announced a new partnership with amfAR, The Foundation for AIDS Research, signifying the single largest corporate partnership in amfAR’s history.

Harry Winston is set to help advance amfAR’s efforts to end the global AIDS epidemic by making a wide range of contributions such as financial support and in-kind donations. The jeweller will also be the first company to serve as the presenting sponsor for the Foundation’s 27 gala events that take place all around the world in the next three years.

“Harry Winston has long looked to the glamour of Hollywood and the allure of its most famous and important gemstones, as a way to raise awareness and funds for local charitable causes,” said Nayla Hayek, CEO of Harry Winston, Inc. “amfAR’s history of hosting some of the world’s most prominent charity events to drive support for its pioneering work towards finding a cure for AIDS, mirrors the same philanthropic principles and beliefs the Harry Winston brand was founded upon. Through amfAR, we are proud to not only continue our commitment to bringing more healthy and brilliant futures to all, but also to support the organization’s mission to ending a global epidemic, which continues to impact more than 35 million people worldwide.”

The first event sponsored by Harry Winston took place on February 11 in New York City.

Starting January 1, 2015, Rafael Amador took over as the new Marketing Director for United PMR and will be working closely with Erica Clough from D&E Advertising to manage and oversee United’s advertising and marketing campaigns.

At Amador’s request, all media communications should continue to be filtered through Clough via email to ericaeclough@gmail.com as to avoid overlapping efforts.

If you need to reach out to Amador, please feel free to email him at marketing@unitedpmr.com. However, please send solicitations for media placements to Clough as you have been, as the company had implemented a process whereby those requests are screened and submitted to Amador via D&E Advertising.

Retail Council of Canada: holiday cross-border shopping down but overall Canadian sales up According to the Retail Council of Canada, Canadian sales have increased by 5.6 per cent in the first two weeks of December compared to the same numbers last year.

In terms of cross-border shopping this holiday season, sales decreased says the Retail Council of Canada.

“The exchange rate put a dent in cross-border shopping,” says Michael Leblanc, a spokesman for the council. “The lower price of gas put more disposable income on the table, so that probably meant a few more presents under the tree.”

In the weeks leading up to Christmas, the loonie was worth less than 90 cents U.S. and it’s now staying around 86 cents. When it came to oil prices, they decreased over 40 per cent since the summer to hit the lowest prices in four and a half years.

According to Canada’s largest processor and acquirer of debit and credit card payments Moneris, sales increased overall for this year. During the last Saturday before Christmas in 2014, the amount spent per transaction was up by about 10 per cent and total dollar numbers were up by about four to five per cent.

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Retailers compete with online sales by adapting in-store technology Many bricks-and-mortar retailers are competing with increasing online sales by trying to adapt new technologies and innovative tools in their stores. An example of this is Apple’s iBeacon technology, which is an opt-in system that can be used to send nearby customers coupons and sale items right to their phones.

Another great example of this is Findbox, which is a technological tool that helps shoppers find what they need using a computer and camera combination that scans an item you are looking for and helps locate it in the store instead of having to wait for a sales associate to find it for you.

The options continue to grow, giving retailers more opportunity to better connect with consumers as well as stay in line with the emerging sales of major online retailers.

MARCH 2015

15-02-24 3:40 PM

What does Target’s closure mean for our industry?

We recently found out that Target Corp. has made the decision to halt its Canadian operations, which include precisely 133 stores and 17,600 employees. The discount retailer has been criticized for high prices ever since opening its doors in Canada in March 2013.

“After a thorough review of our Canadian performance and careful consideration of the implications of all options, we were unable to find a realistic scenario that would get Target Canada to profitability until at least 2021. Personally, this was a very difficult decision, but it was the right decision for our company,” Target Chairman and CEO Brian Cornell said in a statement.

This will mean several things for the industry – one of them being that thousands of people are going to be out of work within the next 16 to 20 weeks. In addition to this, there will be a lot real estate on the market but having buyers come forward is a totally different picture.

Several weeks ago, Target Canada filed for protection under the Companies’ Creditors Arrangement Act in Toronto on Thursday. This means that the Ontario court will oversee the closure of the Canadian stores as Target liquidates its inventory and sells off store leases. In a report by, The Star, Don Gregor, Aurora Realty Consultants’ chief operating officer, told the paper that Target is hoping to sell all of its leases but Gregor can’t image who would possibly buy such a vast amount of real estate, estimated at about 20 million sq. ft., all at once.

Ultimately, the return of all of this retail space will hurt smaller malls, pensions, and real estate investment trusts that invest in malls. Target has predicted that the loss on discontinued operations will total to approximately US$5.4 billion.

Swiss watch prices set to rise Following the Swiss National Bank’s removal of its three-year cap on the franc, Swiss watch prices are expected to significantly increase. The country’s national bank made a decision to remove its minimum exchange rate on January 15, causing currency to soar, reaching 13 per cent against both the dollar and the euro at press time.

According to a company statement from Swatch Chairman Nick Hayek, “Today’s SNB action is a tsunami for the export industry and for tourism and finally for the entire country.”

Swatch stock fell 16 per cent following the removal of the minimum exchange rate.

Birks Group reports revenue growth to $97.6M Birks Group Inc. has revealed that the company’s revenue grew by 3.2 per cent year on year to reach $97.6 million in the third quarter that ended on December 28, 2014.

The rise in revenue is a result of higher comparable-store sales, which increased by 11 per cent. That number was slightly offset by a weaker Canadian dollar, which led to a loss of $3.8 million. The closing of four stores in 2014 also contributed to a $1.5 million loss in revenue. The third quarter also brought an increase of same-store sales for Birks, both Canada and the U.S., with a jump of 5 per cent here and 17 per cent south of the border.

According to Rapaport, the fine jeweller saw a growth of comparable-store sales in Canada and the U.S. during the Christmas season largely due to strong watch sales and a growth in average sales transaction value. President and CEO of Birks, Jean-Christophe Bédos, says, “We are very pleased to see that the continued execution of our strategies, which we began implementing during the prior year and which delivered strong sales growth during the first half of the fiscal year continued to drive sales growth during the third quarter and holiday period. As we enter the final quarter of our fiscal year, we remain confident that the continuing execution of our key strategies will enable us to continue our strong sales performance through the remainder of the fiscal year.”

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29 15-02-24 3:40 PM

For The Record

Digital industry leaders emerge

Master the art of jewellery design using CAD software and Solidscape High Precision 3D Printers On Thursday, March 12, you are invited to participate in the annual information seminar hosted by John Schindler of Schindler Technologies Corporation along with RhinoGold and Solidscape to master the art of creating your own custom designs with the help of CAD software and Solidscape High Precision 3D Printers.

“We’ve been having this seminar for several years now,” says Schindler.

“It’s a traditional, annual event that we offer at the Canadian Jewellers Association and the purpose of it is to educate jewellers about the new technology of jewellery model-making. The jewellery industry is undergoing the transition from manual model making to computerized methods and we attempt to clarify some of the confusion that jewellers may have in terms of what to look for, what type of systems are available, and how computerized model-making works, and so on."

“We basically provide the overview of what’s on the market, how the whole system works, and how jewellers can benefit from using computers and 3D printers to create wax models. We then provide a demonstration of the jewellery design software and show how the 3D printers work that to allow for automatic printing models of waxes.”

The seminar will take place at the Canadian Jewellers Association headquarters in Toronto. For more information or to reserve a spot, please contact John Schindler by calling (905) 927-1166 or 1-888-688-6835 or emailing info@schindler.ca.

According to a report released by research firm L2, David Yurman and Tiffany & Co. are currently leading the jewellery and watch industry in the digital sector. L2, which analyzes trends in digital across e-commerce, digital marketing, social media, and mobile, ranked 82 national and international jewellery and watch firms based on a digital IQ score over a period of four years. The following is a ranking of the top jewellery and watch industry performers: 1. David Yurman 2. Tiffany & Co. 3. Alex and Ani 4. Swarovski 5. Van Cleef & Arpels 6. Montblanc 7. Chopard 8. Cartier 9. Jaeger-LeCoultre 10. Shinola The research firm report also revealed that 50 per cent of brands offer online sales options, 19 brands relaunched their websites in 2014, and that 11 brands debuted mobile sites in 2014.

Bulgari unveils two exclusive jewellery collections in Canada Italian jewellery and luxury goods brand Bulgari launched two exquisite jewellery collections in Canada. According to a press release from the company, “Both collections embody the iconic style and reputable elegance of Bulgari, with distinct inspirations of Italian femininity and ancient Greece respectively.”

The 2014 DIVA jewellery collection follows Bulgari’s 2013 launch of accessories and is created for the ultimate woman. The brand states that this new line is “shimmering with sensuality, each piece is enchanted with charisma and timeless beauty featuring its signature fan-shaped curvature…”

The second line, MVSA, features 26 pieces, including rings, necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, and honours ancient Greece muses that ruled over art, poetry and music.

Jewelers Mutual expands coverage for personal jewellery insurance policy Jewelers Mutual Insurance announced an expansion of coverage on personal jewellery insurance policy that started January 1, 2015. The new project applies to both new and existing policyholders.

The broadened coverage includes additional preventive repair work to complement what retail warranties and services plans may provide.

What Jewelers Mutual’s expanded coverage for personal jewellery includes: – Prong retipping – Repair of broken, worn, or bent prongs – Clasp replacement – Restringing of broken or stretched pearl strands – Repair of broken earring posts – Stone tightening

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MARCH 2015

15-02-24 3:40 PM

From conflict minerals to peace minerals

Mining Column

A challenging situation can be a real opportunity too

by Maria Laura Barreto

IN THE LAST FEW MONTHS, there has been a great deal of discussion about the effectiveness of implementing a “conflict free” chain of custody for minerals and the costs involved for companies to meet the due diligence requirements developed for and by countries in a situation like the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC).

I believe that, for the purposes of this discussion, we need to distinguish between two very different situations. One, is the implementation of a conflictfree chain of custody for minerals that come from large companies and the other, from the minerals that come from artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM).

In the first situation, as much I understand the frustration of the companies, I believe that it should not be very difficult or costly to implement this chain of custody by adapting existing management structures. The emphasis should be on creating a simple but effective system of traceability of the minerals with independent oversight that’s not an excessive burden for the companies and governments.

The instane of ASM is a little more complex and challenging to implement. If the system of traceability of the minerals does not apply to the particularities of this sector, it carries a high risk of further marginalization of the ASM sector.

What does it mean to design a system of traceability of the minerals that addresses the particularities of this sector? This is the “million dollar” question and, while I can’t pretend to have all the answers, I will offer some ideas based on the lessons learned from my experience working with ASM and certification issues.

The first matter is related to the informality of this sector. In several countries, ASM is not recognized as a legitimate, economic mining activity. In other countries that do recognized ASM, there is still considerable confusion around what the kind of formalization framework best enables the development of the activity and creates the best conditions for responsible artisanal and small scale mining operations.

The second matter concerns the costs and complexity associated with mineral traceability issues for ASM operations. ASM is very sensitive to costs because it is a very undercapitalized sector due in large part to the lack of access to official credit.

Increasing costs can mean two things for ASM operations: they become unfeasible to continue to operate or they become more dependent on informal financial relations with all sorts of exploitative affiliations associated with these transactions. While the complexity of the system can result in unsustainable costs, another challenge is that an overly complex set of rules and systems can make it technically impossible for ASM to meet the requirements.

This means that ASM needs a specific traceability system that addresses the technical and economic characteristics of this sector and enables healthy relations particularly in the trade of minerals and does not create additional obstacles to those that already exist. It also points to the need for the international community and national governments to approach the formalization of this sector in a more serious way. Informality is the perfect recipe to allow various levels of abuse and prevent the empowering of the miners and other economic agents who need to be able to organize and effectively oppose the violation of their rights, including basic human rights.

At the end of the day, a conflict-free traceability system needs to build a reliable chain of custody but this cannot be only for mining products put out by medium or large-scale mining companies. It cannot succeed in delivering on the promise of conflict reduction and of ethical minerals without including the millions of miners who are trying to do their best in providing for their families.

As we consider these two issues, another one emerges. The time frame for the implementation of any traceability system for ASM must deal practically with the fact that we are talking about thousands of mining sites that need to be validated and have a minerals traceability system put in place. The time frame is crucial and will play an important role in being able to actually build sustainable ASM sites, along with the capacity of governments to deliver in creating the conditions for such sites.

The consumer rightly wants the best products and these include conflict-free minerals, but how we source these demands will have huge consequences.

The choices we make in the traceability system will set the difference between the exclusion or inclusion of the millions of directly affected people in ASM. When done right, the traceability system has the potential to transform the issue of conflict minerals into a much needed peace-building process in conflictaffected and high-risk areas around the world. CJ

MARCH 2015

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31 2015-02-24 10:28 AM

Mauve Maven

Star Watch

Stepping out in style

Taylor Swift struck a pose in a flirty Reem Acra Spring 2015 cut-out dress and black, strappy heels at the iHeart Radio Jingle Ball 2014 at Madison Square Garden in New York City. The towering songstress added a dose of sparkle to her elegant plum dress by donning a shimmering Suzanne Kalan ring ($5,000).

These beauties know what it takes to look the part on any red carpet

Clean Cut Charmer

Sumputuous Stunner Adriana Lima looked every bit the supermodel that she is at the IWC Schaffhausen celebrates “Timeless Portofino” Gala Event during Art Basel Miami Beach at The W Hotel South Beach in Miami, Florida. The Victoria Secret Angel was absolutely lovely in a black backless Alexandre Vauthier gown embellished with emerald jewels at the cuff, an IWC watch, and bejeweled ankle-strap sandals. For jewellery, the Brazilian model went with classy and chic Jack Vartanian ear climbers.

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She may be in her 50s but Angela Bassett was the envy of any 20-year-old when she showed up in a white crop top at the premiere of Lifetime’s “Whitney” at the Paley Center for Media in Beverly Hills, California. The ravishing actress wore a sleek black pantsuit, which she paired with a pair of sky-high snakeprint pumps and a pair of ravishing Brumani earrings ($6,684).

MARCH 2015

15-02-24 9:35 AM

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2014-09-05 11:29 AM 2015-02-24 10:41 AM

CJ Gallery

Say “hello” to spring with Pandora PANDORA JEWELRY TOOK OVER THE HARBOR VIEW SUITE at the Trump International Hotel & Tower in Toronto this past January for a Spring/Mother’s Day 2015 Canadian Media Preview event. Pandora representatives and stylist Janette Ewen lead media attendees through the transformed space where beautiful flowers created a flourishing English garden, inspired by the theme of the Spring Collection.

An array of textures, distinctive furniture and florals were selected as an extension of the look book to create a white-on-white atmosphere. Jewellery was displayed on pedestals and tables with both large custom built paper flowers and flower decals and stylings were showcased on model ambassadors and at interactive seating areas.

The Spring 2015 Collection incorporates the spirit of spring with butterflies, daisies and pastels and introduces seven new geometric, stackable rings in sterling silver and 14k gold bands. Meanwhile, mothers everywhere will get to enjoy the new Mother’s Day Collection, inspired by love, motherhood and the special bonds that hold families together. And with Valentine’s Day ruling the month of February, the Valentine’s Jewelry Collection from Pandora fittingly celebrates romance with precious metals and stones set in beautifully crafted fine jewellery. CJ

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MARCH 2015

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CJ Gallery

Let’s celebrate!

Joolz – Bar à Bijoux’s one-year anniversary Living up to its reputation, Joolz – Bar à Bijoux celebrated the jewellery store’s first anniversary in style. Hosted by Westmount Fashionista Jessica Concannon and featuring live musical performances by R&B duo G.NAX, this special evening was entirely dedicated to fashion and jewellery lovers. Guests were treated to bubbling prosecco and delicious hors d’oeuvres, not to mention the chic Joolz’s signature cupcakes.

With current lines including Hugo Boss, Karl Lagerfeld, Swarovski, Bcouture, Honora Pearls, OPS!Objects, Phillip Gavriel and TenthBoulevard, owner Lydia Mamane wishes to offer products at all price ranges from the most sought after brands.

“I want my clients to find the perfect gift or spoil themselves, whether they’re looking for a $50-piece or a personalised engagement ring,” says Mamane. The store’s unique bar concept provides a luxurious atmosphere where clients are invited to sit down and sip on a complimentary glass of wine or cup of espresso while they look at all of the jewellery pieces and enjoy the elegant décor. CJ

MARCH 2015

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Cover Story

Cavalier Jewellers:

Breaking the mould This not so traditional west coast jewellery store caters to the average guy shopping for “the ring” and makes sure that he has fun doing it.

by Irina Lytchak photography by Katie Huisman

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IF THERE'S ONE JEWELLERY STORE that's been able to bend the rules and have fun while doing it, it's Vancouver, B.C.'s very own Cavalier Jewellers.

Situated in the city’s historically rich Gastown neighbourhood, Cavalier Jewellers was a vision of Dane Stevens and Keith Seabrook, both 26, that took on a life of its own nearly two years ago when the long-time friends opened the doors to this unique location.

"In early 2013, we just decided to really wing it and open a store. A lot of retailers were retiring and many of them had a lot of stock,” explains Stevens, co-owner of Cavalier Jewellers. “We had a really good idea and decided to just go for it – that’s how [Cavalier Jewellers] was born. Besides, the numbers just weren't really there to make a good living doing only wholesale.”

MARCH 2015

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Dane Stevens, co-owner of Cavalier Jewellers MARCH 2015

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Cover Story

Cavalier Jewellers is not your typical jewellery store. It’s got a particular layout, distinctive lighting and an overall vibe that’s very much a departure from the conventional jewellery store. The shop features a lot of natural light that comes through two huge storefront windows as well as the infamous red leather couch that Stevens says was "worth every penny."

"We built [the store] to fit into the Gastown neighbourhood, with the brick and a really West Coast vibe,” explains Stevens. “We have a lot dimmer lights than most jewellery stores, but over top of the showcases, they're showing off the products. I really like daylight personally and LED lights just don't work for me."

Cavalier Jewellers was designed with your average man in mind, complete with a lounge area that gives the store a generally laid-back feeling, allowing the guy to shop for a gift for his special someone without the pressures that some may feel when they walk into a high-end jewellery store. None of the staff ever wear suits, including the owners, and prefer a look that can be described as relaxed sophistication.

"The lounge is where the guys can hang out, relax, have a beer and even watch the game," says Stevens. "I've seen a lot of mom-and-pop shops and I took ideas from what I liked and put them into my store. And I made sure not to incorporate all of the stigmas that people hate about jewellery stores. It's more of a destination than just a jewellery store.”

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How it all started Cavalier Jewellers wasn’t just born out of nothing. Stevens is third generation in a long line of gemstone dealers, having caught the wholesale bug fresh out of high school.

“Before we opened Cavalier Jewellers, I was travelling for over six months of the year, just buying and selling gems,” he explains. “It was nice and we still have a ton of connections in Thailand that I definitely wouldn't have gotten if my uncle wasn't into the business for so long.”

Stevens’ family operates a cutting house and works with several different brokers in Thailand, which was established by his grandfather, Christian Adams and uncle, Harry Adams, several decades ago. They started by travelling to Brazil and Colombia together where they would purchase various gemstones, including tourmaline, emerald and tanzanite, and sell them locally back in Canada while building up a strong wholesale business through the 1980s and 90s.

Today, Steven’s grandfather, or also lovingly known as ‘Opa,’ is 85 years old and still works with a handful of clients that have stayed with him for many years. Unfortunately, Stevens’ uncle passed away from ALS but has since inspired Cavalier Jewellers to centre a lot of its fundraising initiatives around raising money for this particular disease.

“When my uncle got ill with ALS, I had just graduated high school and I

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decided that instead of going to business school, I would learn the family gem business from him.”

When Stevens turned 20, he borrowed a chunk of money to buy out his uncle’s assets in the wholesale business, took over his clients, brought in more inventory and got in his car to sell gemstones across Canada.

“It was a lot of fun and I’ve got some good stories out of that,” he recalls.

But after doing that for several years, Stevens started to see that the market place was changing and retailers preferred to buy stock at JCK Tucson or overseas. That’s when Stevens decided to bring in his childhood friend and AHL player Seabrook to open their own jewellery store together.

What’s in a name?

Stevens reveals that while the store’s name is pretty self-explanatory, the gents can’t be credited with coming up with it.

“My sister thought of the name actually,” he confesses. “We knew the concept, we had a really good brand in mind and then we were just looking for a name. I thought the word “cavalier” had a good ring to it and when we researched it, we landed on a definition that really reflects the store.”

Today, that definition can be found on one of the store’s interior walls, stylishly printed to say, “cavalier. {kavəˈlir} –noun 1. A gallant, courtly, or chivalrous gentleman.”

“The lounge is where the guys can hang out, relax, have a beer and even watch the game.”

– Dane Stevens

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Cover Story

Since its inauguration, Cavalier Jewellers has dabbled in retailing various kinds of products, including fine jewellery pieces, estate jewels, watches, engagement rings, wedding bands and loose stones. Until recently, that is. Starting last year, Seabrook and Stevens decided to hone in on what they do best and that’s creating and selling engagement rings.

“Keith and I both have a really strong pull on that work,” says Stevens. “At the end of the day, we're selling to our friends and people that know us or have heard of us or grew up with us. We're a huge referral business now and that's been based around engagements.”

With a work studio right in the store, the guys work with their own designer to produce custom-designed engagement rings that shy away from the ordinary and typical and make great use out of coloured gemstones and diamonds.

“We build everything in house,” says Stevens “We have a workshop above the store ground level, two full-time goldsmiths and our designer Trevor. Ninety-nine per cent of the stuff we do is custom!”

And with everyone lending a helping hand on the sales floor, including the store’s social media guru Brianna, Trevor, Josh, Stevens and Seabrook, Cavalier has found success in building an intimate yet casual relationship with their customers.

“We have a double door entry and when you come in, you're going to get full service.”

Big plans in the making Going forward, Stevens and Seabrook are still continuing on with their gemstone wholesale business across the country and have embarked on developing a signature collection of engagement rings under the Cavalier brand name. Set to be unveiled this spring, the rings will be taken to social media in order to build interest across Canada and see what kind of response they’ll receive.

“Being on social media means that we can be accessible from anywhere and I think that's a really good opportunity,” says Stevens. “If you can tailor a campaign to a certain demographic in a city where you're currently not being sold, you can create a demand with the young people there. It's about creating that demand organically and I think that there's an opportunity there.”

The business duo are also set on releasing their own line of watches, noting the fact that Canada is scarce on any home-grown and unique watch brands these days. The Vancouver-themed watch collection is set for release this summer, just in time for Cavalier’s two-year anniversary.

“We’re really lucky; we've got a really cool group of guys to support us in Vancouver,” says Stevens. “ We've got the brand ready, the packaging, the story and the series, we just need to finalize the designs.”

Releasing the branded engagement ring and watch lines is yet another step for the friends to get the Cavalier name out there. Having a close-knit network of friends and supporters in Vancouver and across the country has helped make the Cavalier name known but it’s the dream that keeps it going.

“We're building a story and that's the coolest and most fun part,” says Stevens. “So if we can only continue to do that...” CJ

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AT A GL A NCE NAME: Cavalier Jewellers OWNERS: Dane Stevens and Keith Seabrook LOCATIONS: 207 West Hastings Street #217, Vancouver, BC. STORE SIZE: 1,000 square feet of retail and 800 square feet of manufacturing STAFF: six to eight people work on average KNOWN FOR: outstanding custom designed engagement rings COOL FACTOR: “I think it’s the layout; it takes you on a tour,” says Stevens. “You can basically do a lap around the store and get a good idea of what we’re all about in two minutes. You’ll be able to see the guys working upstairs, you can see the products and you can just get a total vibe for what we’re doing there. I think the general layout is great, it’s about the total package. I’ve been coast to coast and I haven’t seen a store yet that’s like what we’ve done here.”

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Les Nouvelles par Véronique Dubé

CJ en français

Crédit photo: Ministère de l’Énergie et des Resources naturelles

Le projet Renard est sur une bonne lancée

Soirée 1er anniversaire, Joolz – Bar à Bijoux

Célébrons le 1er anniversaire de Joolz – Bar à Bijoux Fidèle à sa réputation, Joolz – Bar à Bijoux a célébré le 1er anniversaire de la bijouterie avec style. Animée par Jessica Concannon – Westmount Fashionista – et alimentée par des performances musicales R&B du duo G. NAX, cette soirée spéciale était entièrement dédiée aux amoureux des bijoux et de la mode. Les amateurs de bulles ont pu apprécier le Prosecco qui était servi aux nombreux invités, en plus des délicieux hors-d’œuvre et des chic cupcakes à l’image de Joolz. Avec les collections Hugo Boss, Karl Lagerfeld, Swarovski, B Couture, Honora Pearls, OPS! Objects, Philip Gavriel et TenthBoulevard, la propriétaire Lydia Mamane souhaite offrir des produits des noms les plus demandés, et ce, pour toutes les gammes de prix. « Je veux que mes clients trouvent le parfait cadeau ou bien qu’ils se gâtent, peu importe qu’ils recherchent un bijou à 50 $ ou bien une bague de fiançailles personnalisée », précise Lydia. L’unique concept de boutique « bar » procure une atmosphère luxueuse où la clientèle est invitée à s’asseoir et à siroter un verre de vin ou un espresso pendant qu’ils regardent les bijoux, tout en profitant d’un élégant décor.

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Le 15 décembre dernier, Matt Manson, président et chef de la direction de Stornoway, a déclaré: « Le deuxième trimestre de l’année financière 2015 a vu une solide progression de la mobilisation de construction au projet diamantifère Renard. […] Le forage et l’optimisation de la conception de l’usine de traitement que nous avons effectués pendant le trimestre nous laissent entrevoir un plus grand potentiel, respectivement par une vie de mine plus longue et par la récupération de gros diamants. » Le projet se poursuit donc selon l’échéancier. Ainsi, les premiers minerais sont attendus à l’usine de traitement au deuxième semestre de 2016 et la production commerciale est prévue pour le deuxième trimestre de 2017. Le coût total prévu demeure dans les limites du budget de 811 millions $, entièrement financé.

Tag Heuer veut lancer une montre connectée Tag Heuer est en négociations avec Intel pour lancer une montre connectée « fin 2015, début 2016 », a annoncé Jean-Claude Biver, le 22 décembre. « On est en pleine négociation », a déclaré le patron du pôle horloger de LVMH, qui assure également la présidence de Tag Heuer. M. Biver, qui croit aux montres connectées « pour la nouvelle génération », a annoncé le 16 décembre dans une conférence de presse ce tournant stratégique, un produit craint par l’industrie horlogère suisse. Cette dernière comparait la nouvelle technologie à l’arrivée des montres à quartz dans les années 70, qui avaient plongé l’industrie horlogère suisse dans une crise profonde. M. Biver a indiqué que le développement de montres connectées se ferait notamment par le biais de partenariats, de projets de recherches avec de grandes universités ou encore d’éventuelles acquisitions.

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K8 Bijoux lance sa nouvelle collection Lumina Dans le cadre de son projet Écrin des Muses, la créatrice de bijoux et orfèvre Kate Hubley - aussi connue sous le nom de K8 - a conçu une pièce en collaboration avec Camille Dg. Le collier Lumina est directement inspiré du Quartier des Spectacles de Montréal, et plus précisément de l’installation monumentale de luminothérapie « Iceberg ». Insufflant sa spontanéité, son esprit vif et son côté naturel, Camille Dg voulait faire part de son amour pour ce quartier vivant et incontournable de Montréal, coeur de sa vie culturelle et artistique. Le collier vedette haut de gamme est décliné en plusieurs versions afin d’offrir une collection pour tous les budgets. Les bijoux Lumina sont fabriqués en argent sterling, en or blanc, rose ou jaune 14K et 18K, et une coloration céramique aux multiples couleurs rehausse la beauté des pièces. Camille Dg est la fondatrice du blogue ultra populaire de mode, style de vie et tendances « Le Cahier » (The Booklet en anglais), lancé en 2008 et projeté chaque semaine depuis septembre 2014 à la télévision sur les ondes de MAtv. Kate Hubley est une gemmologue FGA certifiée. Elle imagine des collections uniques de bijoux fins, des alliances et des commandes privées, toujours avec une vision pleine de surprises et d’inattendus. Les détaillants désireux d’offrir les bijoux de la collection Lumina sont invités à contacter K8 Jewelry Concepts Bijoux.

Colliers de la collection Lumina, K8 Jewelry Concepts Bijoux

Les montres de haute horlogerie, plus artistiques que jamais Les maisons de haute couture conçoivent de plus en plus de pièces horlogères d’exception incorporant de nombreux détails artistiques, une tendance qui promet d’être omniprésente en 2015. La montre Mademoiselle Privé Camélias Brodés de Chanel est munie d’un boîtier en or rose et d’une lunette sertie de diamants. Mais c’est surtout son cadran brodé de perles, de fils d’or et de soie qui retient l’attention, un travail effectué par Maison Lesage. Chez Cartier, la montre Ronde Louis Cartier XL, où un filigrane en fils d’or jaune et de platine dessine sur le cadran deux panthères aux yeux d’émeraudes, est limitée à seulement 20 pièces. De son côté, Piaget propose un cadran en soie noire brodée d’une branche de laurier sur une montre nommée Altiplano Embroidery.

Une approche moderne du mariage

Les bijoux annoncent leurs couleurs pour 2015

Pour le printemps, désireux d’offrir une version moderne de l’amour, Tiffany & Co commencera sa campagne 2015 en présentant un couple gai. Il s’agit d’une façon pour le bijoutier, en affaire depuis 178 ans, d’aborder une facette de l’amour d’aujourd’hui. Prise en charge par le photographe Peter Lindbergh, la campagne 2015 apporte « une réelle vision de l’amour moderne, de la grande demande et du mariage », selon Tiffany & Co. Les publicités mettront en vedette des couples de même sexe qui sont de réels couples et seront abordées par le thème « Voudrais-tu? » (Will you?). Elles représenteront un moment de leur vie où les couples réalisent qu’ils sont faits l’un pour l’autre.

Parmi les nouvelles tendances, on note un retour marqué des boucles d’oreilles grimpantes et doubles-faces. Les bagues en deux parties, liées par une chaînette et les boucles d’oreilles de style chandelier inspirées des années 70 seront aussi présentes. Agencer plusieurs colliers de différents styles afin de créer un look entièrement personnalisé conserve son attrait en 2015. Les bracelets ajourés de type manchette aux lignes géométriques, tout droit sortis des années 80, refont surface. Et bien qu’ils ne fassent pas toujours l’unanimité, les colliers larges composés de plusieurs rangées et portés très près du cou sont aussi apparus lors des défilés printemps-été 2015.

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CJ en français

Bague « Luxuriante » en or gris 18 carats et diamants pour Mellerio dits Meller, par Édéenne

Édéenne au Château Dufresne à l’automne 2016

Bague « Fleur de Neige ». Or jaune 18K, Platine Pt950 et topaze.

Crédit photo: Claudio Pino

Claudio Pino, finaliste du prix NICHE Awards 2015 Lors du dernier NICHE Awards, qui avait lieu à Washington DC du 16 au 19 janvier, le joaillier montréalais Claudio Pino était mis en nomination pour sa création « Mystical Flowering » dans la catégorie des bijoux en or. Quatre autres canadiens étaient aussi finalistes de cette compétition, dont : Emily Gill, Amélie Girard, Sonia Bandulet et Éric Tardif. Les artistes reconnus par NICHE ont été jugés par un jury incluant des propriétaires de galeries d’art, des directeurs de guildes et de musées, des conservateurs et plusieurs experts de l’industrie, tous sélectionnés par les éditeurs du magazine NICHE. Chaque année, ce sont près de 2000 inscriptions d’artisans professionnels et d’étudiants provenant du Canada et des États-Unis qui sont reçues. Une fois que le processus de sélection est complété et que les votes sont comptés, les pièces ayant obtenu le plus grand nombre de points – 5 dans chaque catégorie – deviennent des finalistes NICHE. Et de ces 5 pièces, on détermine ensuite celle qui compte le plus de points. La cérémonie des NICHE Awards a lieu durant le American Trade Show de janvier où on annonce les gagnants.

Chaque artiste primé reçoit un trophée. Lors de la cérémonie, les étudiants et les professionnels partagent la scène, permettant ainsi un échange qui laisse une grande place à l’inspiration. « Les professionnels nous inspirent grâce à la maîtrise de leurs techniques et leur compréhension du rôle de l’artisanat dans le façonnage de la culture. De leur côté, les étudiants nous font vibrer avec leur vision avant-gardiste de ce qu’est l’artisanat aujourd’hui et de ce qu’il deviendra demain », dit Hope Daniels, directrice de la rédaction du magazine NICHE.

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À l’automne 2016, le Château Dufresne, situé à Montréal, rendra hommage au parcours d’Édéenne. Joaillière, originaire de Longueuil, Édéenne est maintenant installée rue de la Paix, à Paris. En moins de 10 ans, elle s’est hissée dans les rangs de la haute joaillerie française, aux côtés de maisons prestigieuses comme Van Cleef & Arpels et Cartier. L’artiste amoureuse de la vie et au riche parcours est l’auteur de véritables chefs-d’oeuvre, transposant magnificence et richesse dans chacune de ses créations. L’année dernière, la Maison Mellerio dits Meller a invité la nouvelle étoile de la Place Vendôme, Édéenne, à concevoir la collection qui célébrait les 400 ans d’existence du joaillier. Nommée Médicis, cette nouvelle collection a été créée en hommage à la reine Marie de Médicis qui a accordé des privilèges aux Mellerio, le 10 octobre 1613, et qui est devenue par la suite la plus ancienne dynastie de joailliers. Plus récemment, Édéenne a façonné de réelles merveilles pour Lane Crawford. Cette collection exclusive à la fameuse boutique de Hong Kong incarne les valeurs les plus intrinsèques de la maison. Grâce à d’ingénieux mécanismes, invisibles à l’œil nu, Édéenne traduit avec grâce les contes classiques de la Chine en d’extraordinaires pièces de haute joaillerie.

Parce qu’Édéenne sait comment faire vivre chaque histoire qui lui est confiée à travers les bijoux qu’elle confectionne.

Collier « Fleurs de Prunier » en or gris 18 carats, diamants et jade blanc pour Lane Crawford Hong Kong, par Édéenne.

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Carrie Underwood pour Vincent Peach

Quand bijoux et célébrités font bon ménage

French Feature

Les célébrités possèdent cette indéniable capacité d’attirer les regards. Leur pouvoir de séduction combinée aux stratégies médiatiques des entreprises de tous genres est souvent un atout majeur pour de nombreuses marques. Rarement risquées sur un coup de dés, mais plutôt issues de méthodes hautement étudiées, bon nombre de campagnes publicitaires utilisent leur popularité afin de bien faire fonctionner leurs tactiques. Et le monde de la bijouterie n’y échappe certainement pas.

Par Véronique Dubé

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French Feature

David Coulthard pour TW Steel

Au Québec, on dit que près de 15 % des messages publicitaires utilisent une personnalité connue pour vanter sa marque. Aux États-Unis, le pourcentage passerait à près de 25 %. N’étant pas le fruit du hasard, il s’agit d’une technique utilisée afin d’accroître l’attention des consommateurs et de renforcer le sentiment d’appartenance et l’identification envers une marque en particulier. On retrouve parmi ces célébrités des vedettes de la télévision, de la scène, du cinéma ou de la musique, mais aussi des bloggueurs populaires, des auteurs et des sportifs, qui ont souvent l’avantage de jouir d’un fort capital de sympathie.

Il existe plusieurs bonnes raisons pour les compagnies d’adopter des plans marketing qui mettent à l’avant-scène des personnalités connues :

La personnalité connue est le miroir du produit Lorsque les compagnies emploient une célébrité, elles doivent d’abord s’assurer qu’un lien bien défini existe entre la personnalité choisie, le produit et le public qui est ciblé. Lorsque ce lien est clair et qu’il est facilement identifiable, la campagne connaît un succès. Le porte-parole de la marque doit être à l’image de celle-ci et représenter un ambassadeur pour les consommateurs. Les clients d’une marque aiment pouvoir s’identifier grâce à une personnalité qui les interpelle. C’est le cas de Miranda Kerr pour Swarovski et Georgia May Jagger pour Thomas Sabo.

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Caroline Néron, fondatrice de Bijoux Caroline Néron

Taylor Swift pour Red C Jewels

Le porte-parole de la marque est un expert dans le domaine Quand un spécialiste accepte d’endosser une marque, les changements d’attitudes observés chez les consommateurs sont souvent notables. Les compagnies de montres ont régulièrement recours à ce type de stratégies lorsqu’il s’agit de modèles qui vantent des fonctions particulières ou qui sont munis de technologies de pointe. Habituellement, ce sont des sportifs qui deviennent les ambassadeurs de ces marques. David Coulthard le fait pour TW Steel, Matt Kenseth pour Citizen et Tony Parker pour Tissot.

Le produit et la personnalité connue sont indissociables Un exemple propre au Québec, celui de Caroline Néron, n’est certainement pas passé sous silence. Celle qu’on a d’abord connue comme comédienne est aujourd’hui une femme d’affaires à la tête de l’entreprise Bijoux Caroline Néron, qui génère des revenus annuels de plus de 15 millions de dollars.

Depuis, d’autres personnalités du Québec se sont également associées à Caroline Néron, comme Mitsou et Abeille Gélinas qui ont créé un bijou pour la Fondation du cancer du sein du Québec en septembre dernier.

La marque vise un public jeune ou avant-gardiste Les chanteurs et acteurs savent divertir et inciter les adeptes de la mode et du style. Bien que dans certains cas le côté suggestif des publicités fasse

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Quincy Jones pour Montegrappa

parler, le fait de susciter la controverse entraîne souvent les effets escomptés.

Une annonce vivante, moderne et au visuel agréable a tout pour plaire aux générations Y et Z.

On cherche la notoriété La célébrité agit comme un accélérateur. S’associer à une personnalité connue permet d’assurer une plus grande visualisation d’une marque émergente. Surtout quand la stratégie est orientée pour un appel à l’action (en anglais, call to action) en utilisant les médias sociaux et imprimés et qu’on souhaite percer un nouveau marché. On l’a vu avec Jennifer Lopez pour Endless.

Jewels

La marque s’adresse à un public très précis Des maisons haut de gamme ont souvent recours à des légendes, par exemple du monde de la musique ou du cinéma, afin de promouvoir leur marque auprès d’un créneau de petits groupes de consommateurs définis et exigeants. En 2014, Quincy Jones a apposé sa signature sur la collection de stylos portant son nom pour Montegrappa. Dans le passé, Marilyn Monroe s’enflammait sous les diamants étincelants d’Harry Winston, Elizabeth Taylor se nourrissait des joyaux de la maison italienne Bulgari, Audrey Hepburn était folle de Tiffany’s et Marlene Dietrich avait rendus inoubliables les bracelets de Mauboussin.

Couramment, on identifie les célébrités qui s’associent aux marques comme des endosseurs de prestige. Au Québec, la personnalité connue qui participe à une campagne publicitaire est davantage perçue comme un modèle faisant partie intégrante du message. Ce qui explique d’ailleurs pourquoi elle demeure souvent plusieurs années au service de la même marque. Celle qui incarne un modèle de persévérance, de courage et de réussite attire ce que les marques recherchent tant, c’est-à-dire la sympathie du public. Un puissant lien de confiance s’établit ainsi entre l’ambassadeur, la marque et le consommateur. CJ

Jennifer Lopez pour Endless

Georgia May Jagger pour Thomas Sabo

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Feature

Educating your consumer Today’s customer is teachable, especially when you, as a retailer, take advantage of the myriad of tools available at your disposal to help you be the teacher.

by Nikki Fotheringham

FOR MANY BRANDS, what I call the “Las Vegas Effect” is enough to garner the attention they need to generate income. Here, bright, eye-catching packaging or celebrity endorsements are utilized to drive sales. But when it comes to big-ticket items, consumers are less enamored by flair and want to make informed decisions. If you’re trying to sell a house, placing bikini-clad girls out front is probably not going to be an effective marketing strategy.

Jewellery falls into this category because buyers are selecting not only something that will be an investment, but also a treasure they will have for the rest of their lives. It’s not enough to have the prettiest storefront or the most beautiful models; you need to educate your audience if you are going to successfully close a sale.

Keshia Holland, PR and online marketing manager for Pandora, explains, “Our marketing strategy is tied to our affordable luxury positioning and that involves fully educating our consumers on the quality of our jewellery. When our consumers understand the level of craftsmanship that goes into creating each individual piece, it gives them a true appreciation for the jewellery they’re purchasing.”

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Create a brand narrative Start by creating a strong brand identity. Decide on the look, tone and feel of your brand and then stick to that throughout all of your content. This helps people to immediately identify you and your brand. When you have inconsistent branding, your clients can’t form a clear image of who you are and what you offer.

With each new piece of content you create, you are sharing the next chapter in your brand narrative. When you have a strong brand identity, you are able to control that narrative and the way that you are portrayed by all of your marketing and employees.

By providing information through your website, blog and social media, you are establishing a relationship with potential clients. You are starting a conversation where you offer them resources and education for free. You are setting yourself up as an expert in the field and helping them to make informed decisions that build trust. Through your brand narrative, you are doing 75 per cent of the work before the client has even walked through your door.

educate your potential clients. If your website hasn’t been changed since its inauguration in 1993, it’s time for a revamp.

Your online base should be a reflection of who you are as a brand. Allow your website to tell the story of your brand and provide the information clients need to make an educated choice. Balance information with design so your site is elegant and easy to use.

Ensure that your site is search engine optimized (SEO). This means that when clients enter keywords associated with your brand and products into a search engine, your website appears on the first page. The first page of a Google search receives 95 per cent of the traffic, which means that if you’re stuck over on the second page, you’re practically invisible.

Brevity is the bride of success Of course you’re passionate about your trade, but waffling on about your wares like your crazy Aunt Mildred about her upcoming cat wedding is not a winning strategy. Ensure that your website, newsletters and pamphlets are concise; read your audience’s interest and tailor your information accordingly.

Perfect your website design

Start a blog

Millennial shoppers tend to research online before they head out to kick the tires. This means that you have to rely on your website and social media to

One way to improve your SEO and provide your clients with a wealth of educational material is through your blog. Sharing articles here will help drive

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traffic to your site and establish you as an expert. If a blog is too much of a commitment, consider a monthly newsletter where you share resources and articles as well as special offers and new products.

Create your own buzz A conversation about your brand is already going online. Customers may be rating you or your products on business sites like Yelp and Angie’s List and posting on their social media sites. Make sure that you are part of this conversation; your social media sites should share information from your followers. Follow a 75/25 rule where 75 per cent of your content is shared and 25 per cent is your original content.

Catherine Roman Fournier, online and PR manager for Bizou, says, “Social media is a great place to keep our customers informed. We are very active on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram. We also have a blog. Each social media platform has its own perks. Since our employees are the first point of contact with our customers, it is crucial that they are up to speed with trends. We provide our store employees with regular documents explaining trends and how to wear them. There’s nothing better than our customers being served by employees who know how to apply the trends to their own wardrobe!”

Get recommendations There’s no marketing device as effective as an endorsement from a trusted friend. Ask your loyal customers to rate your business and products on sites like Yelp. Add customer reviews to your website, offer rewards for recommendations or social media shares, post videos or pictures of happy customers talking about how much they love their new acquisitions and share their stories on your social media. CJ

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Feature

Rewards and loyalty programs The relationship that goes beyond the buy

by Liza Marley

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ARE YOU A MEMBER? Do you have our loyalty card? Did you want to join?

Any way you say it, it’s the moment between the retailer and consumer that begs the question, “Can we take our relationship beyond this purchase?”

With a loyalty program, the retailer gains crucial information about their customers – and it’s extensive. It enables a retailer to track purchases, spending, demographics and more empirical data. In exchange, the customer is offering loyalty and will keep shopping with you because a relationship has been established. They’ve been recognized as a committed customer and expect to be rewarded with sale items, discounts, advanced product releases, special shopping events and more.

“Loyalty programs,” says Dennis Armbruster, vice president and managing partner at LoyaltyOne Consulting, “provide an opportunity for a retailer to identify who its best customers are, what this group values most, and respond accordingly. They also identify which customers the retailer may want to invest in more overtime to gain market share, called high potential customers.

“From a merchandising perspective, a loyalty program enables the retailer to align their price, promotion and assortment decisions with the greatest needs of their most loyal customers. For example, jewellery retailers can make price reduction decisions on the items that are most important to their most loyal customers, as well as ensure that low productivity items in their product assortment can be safely removed by determining if an item is important to loyal customers.”

As a marketing strategy, loyalty programs can work on many levels, but Alex Kwong of Christine Jewellers, doesn’t see it as a necessity for developing in-store customer loyalty. “No incentive programs; we use excellent customer service,” he says, describing the added attention, the personal connection, the follow-up service and the discounts/preferred pricing they offer their loyal customers. These are all aspects of a loyalty program, but instead of tracking the customer’s spendings, Kwong’s store relies on exceptional retail professionals to make a strong connection with their clientele. Part of this connection includes creating a database of customer profiles and amassing additional information with each purchase.

It’s those profiles that give the company their marketing insights. “We treat clients as friends, not as customers,” says Kwong. The jewellery business is known for this sales approach, and, he explains, “it’s the personal relationship between customer and sales person that keeps loyalty strong.

That they go beyond what a traditional loyalty program does: gifting their clientele with special items, like a favourite chocolate or bottle of wine at holidays or a special occasion; offering preferred pricing.” Kwong sees tailored and personal customer service as a better path to creating loyalty.

But Christine Jewellers does use a loyalty program for its online sales, recognizing that an online shopper looking for the best deal has no interest in developing that in-store personal relationship. It’s just about the numbers.

Reward Points Loyalty Program is a prominent feature on the store’s website.

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Feature Each transaction earns points, and additional points can be earned through referrals, reviews and newsletter opt-ins.

“It’s hard to get customer loyalty online, but points give incentive to come back to look,” says Kwong. He knows the rewards and loyalty program doesn’t guarantee return business, but he does expect it to bring repeat comparisonshopping. If christinejewellers.com and another site are comparatively close on an item, the promise of points or a discount from points earned may be the tipping point that will lead to the sale. It’s an opportunity, if not an edge.

While Kwong and Armbuster offer differing opinions on the demand for loyalty programs, ultimately, the approach is about getting the return business of the consumer. Kwong’s approach through relationships parallels a traditional loyalty program, but it works on the level of an unspoken understanding. Clients trust that their retailer will always treat them well and give them the best opportunity. Armbuster’s traditional loyalty program spells out the value-add. Customers can work the points and know what discount or benefit they can gain by shopping businesses with a loyalty rewards program.

“According to LoyaltyOne’s Canadian Retail Consumer Attitudes and Opinions Study,” says Armbuster, “63 per cent of respondents said they expect to receive personalized offers based on their previous purchasing behaviour, personal information and preferences. In that same study, 53 per cent of respondents said they would be willing to share additional personal information for customized offers, discounts and services.”

Retailers have a choice of two different types of rewards and loyalty programs: in-house or through a coalition program. “Often times, retailers with lower purchase frequency look to alternative models,” says Armbuster.

“Participating in coalition loyalty programs such as the AIR MILES Reward Program allows retailers with lower purchase/trip frequency to collect vital customer data, but leverage the equity in currency/points and infrastructure

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of a shared loyalty model.” He explains that the coalition models are not as expensive and carry less financial risk. The costs are spread among all of the retailers (called sponsors) who have joined into the coalition program. On the flipside, consumers like them because they offers a greater opportunity to earn points and rewards.

“Because customers can earn the same loyalty currency at multiple stores, the rate that they would accumulate and redeem rewards is generally faster.

Also, coalition programs can often acquire new customers who are already engaged in the coalition program and want to continue earning points on their purchases.”

Though the coalition program, like the widely used AIR MILES program, may attract consumers, it doesn’t develop loyalty to the retailer’s brand, it simply provides incentive to collectors of AIR MILES to shop where AIR MILES are offered – which may be beneficial to one retailer if the immediate competition doesn’t offer the same. Armbuster explains that, “The proprietary model allows the retailer complete control over the structure, design and rules of the program. It would also allow for the company branding to be tied very closely to the program and rewards currency. Because the retailer would own the proprietary loyalty program, they would be able to adjust the value proposition as needed to ensure maximum customer engagement and business profitability.”

Loyalty and rewards programs are great tools. They gather data and allow a retailer extensive insight into client habits. With Kwong’s approach, loyalty is developed without needing a formal program. But the message is clear – in order to be effective and responsive to clientele, a retail business needs to be able to capture detailed information about customer activity. With the increasing popularity of rewards and loyalty programs, it has become easier to accomplish this. CJ

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Feature

Photo Credit: Sébastien D’Amour

L’École de Joaillerie de Montréal: From a workshop to a school Last year was a big year for l’École de Joaillerie de Montréal. A birthplace to a spectacular amount of ideas, projects and international collaborations, the school celebrated its 40th anniversary.

by Véronique Dubé

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1. Jell Cell (2006), by Esty Grossman.

2. Incognito (1982), by Georges Schwartz.

3. By Armand Brochard (1975-1980).

4. By Madeleine Dansereau (1990). Collection of MMAQ. Photo credit (1-2-3-4): A. McLean

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Photo includes in no specific order: Catherine Sheedy, curator of the exhibition; Pierre Wilson, director of MMAQ; members of ÉJM team, including Stéphane Blackburn, general manager; members of the teaching staff; Armand Brochard, one of the founders of ÉJM; members of the Board of Directors of ÉJM; Claudia Gravel, project manager at ÉJM; former teachers, including Georges Schwartz; and former students. (Photo Credit: Sébastien D’Amour)

TO CELEBRATE THIS MILESTONE, l’École de Joaillerie de Montréal organized a retrospective exhibition to encourage and promote its founders, masters and graduates, but also to strengthen its cultural role within the community.

Four decades of history The story of this jewellery school started back in 1973, when Madeleine Dansereau and Armand Brochard, two jewellers from very different spheres, created a vibrant, distinct and unique training centre in Quebec: l’Atelier de Joaillerie. In addition to their passion, it took quite a bit of audacity to dive into this adventure. It was the first school workshop entirely dedicated to the learning of the art and science behind jewellery making. But their project had proved its worth and in less than two years, they moved into a larger space.

Later on in 1982, l’Atelier de Joaillerie became the École de joaillerie et de métaux d’art de Montréal.

In 1989, the Ministry of Education of Quebec established the technical craft program and the school, in affiliation with the Cégep du Vieux-Montréal, welcomed the first cohort of Cegep students registered in the jewellery option. Dansereau and Brochard became known for their high standards of education in jewellery making and gained recognition for their teaching skills while promoting the program. As a result, the arts community in Montreal and throughout Québec in general began to recognize their program. Known today as l’École de Joaillerie de Montréal, the school now accommodates more than 400 students each year, and is the only one to offer a complete range of instruction. In fact, the students are divided into three groups – continuing education, college-level instruction, and advanced training.

The talent behind the ideas Born and raised in Montréal, Madeleine Dansereau is considered to be the first woman who became a jeweller in Québec. Metals fascinated her; she loved their aspect of constant evolution and the way she could transpose their beauty to others. Dansereau is the designer of the Ordre national du Québec’s insignia, a reward given to exceptional individual for their contribution to promote Québec. In 1987, the Québec government’s Ministry of Cultural Affairs enlisted her and seven other artists to review the proposal for the recognition of the status of an artist.

Armand Brochard, a Belgium jeweller, arrived in Canada in 1957. The exceptional quality of his work was the result of his meticulous attention to detail and technical expertise. During Expo 67, he was the creator of the

sculptures and jewels that were presented by the Québec government to Queen Elizabeth II, Madame de Gaulle and visiting heads of state. Brochard also played an important role in elevating the Salon des métiers d’art du Québec to a world-class level.

Passing on the gift L’École de Joaillerie de Montréal offers a high quality of education, largely thanks to the diversity of its teachers. Since day one, the school has greatly benefited from its teachers’ expertise. Over the years, they developed their knowledge by training in various international institutions. The artistic process of each teacher is unique, which brings a different approach and an added value to the school. Among the educators are Georges Delrue, Antoine Lamarche, Georges Schwartz, Louis-Jaques Suzor Christine Larochelle, Lynn Légaré and Pierre-Yves Paquette.

The results The graduated artisans of l’École de Joaillerie de Montréal have been trained by master jewellers who taught them how to stimulate their creativity and excellence, with an understanding that keeping an open-mind and loving what they do are the things that produce outstanding work. Many of the graduates have received honours and awards, and have taken part in major international exhibitions. Creations by Josée Desjardins, Anne Fauteux, Aliza Amihude, Gabrielle Desmarais, Sylvie Mourocq, Lawrence Woodford and Esty Grossman, among many others, are all part of the exhibition put on to celebrate the school’s anniversary.

To set up the celebratory show, the curator at the school, Catherine Sheedy, had the mission of assembling the projects that reflect the institution’s development over the years. Being an artist and jeweller herself, Sheedy worked closely with collectors, museums and a special jury – made up of weaver Louise Lemieux Bérubé, cutter and silversmith, Chantal Gilbert, and art historian, Valérie Côté – to select the works for the retrospective exhibition.

This retrospective exhibition was first presented at the Musée des maîtres et artisans du Québec from September 25 to November 15 of last year with more than 2,600 visitors in attendance. Then, from December 5 to 21, the school was invited to exhibit at Le Salon des Métiers d’art de Montréal, which was another fantastic way to showcase the people and creations that contributed to the school’s success over a span of four decades. CJ

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Gems + Gemmology

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The art of jewellery Just like painting on a canvas or composing a song, creating jewellery has earned its right to be considered an art form.

by Duncan Parker

WE’VE ALL HEARD OF EXTRAORDINARY PRICES being paid for famous works by well-known artists. We also sometimes hear comments like, “Who on earth would pay $30 million for a painting by Picasso? It’s only canvas and paint.”

Well, of course it’s “only canvas and paint,” but it was created by someone who is widely regarded as an extraordinary creative spirit, well-worth of high regard.

A painting I make is likely to be worth somewhat less than the value of that “canvas and paint,” but I did go to school with a guy whose paintings sell for millions. The difference between our work? Skill and ability (and I don’t resent him, honestly).

Artists have been responsible for almost everything ever created by humans.

An artist must plan and design a wide range of items, from small and simple, to large and complex. Everything is the result of design; the use of materials, space, form, and function. A spoon is designed, just as the Mace of the Legislative Assembly of Canada’s Northwest Territories. Design is important, but if it’s an exceptional piece, we may notice it and maybe remember where it came from. Ordinary creations are much more likely to escape our memory quicker.

Even something as simple as a flat wedding ring is the result of design and planning. Someone designed the original wedding band many centuries ago.

Today, we make variations on that original; we can bevel the edges, polish or sandblast it, set it in yellow or white gold, or use mixed colours. The variations are endless and each one is the result of design, at least in a simple form.

There is often discussion about the value of the product made by some of the “bigger names” in the jewellery industry. Are they worth the price or are people just paying for the name? Many of those high-end jewellers all started in the same way as the rest of us in the business but a lot of them

managed to stand apart from the rest as a result of strong focus on design and craftsmanship. The finest works of great artists are enduring, and merit recognition in history.

There is always a place for beauty in our lives. While the work of the artist or the designer is often overlooked, it is extremely important. Throughout history, we had figures like the Greek politician who spearheaded the drive to get the Parthenon built, or the individual who arranged for the permits to allow the building of the Hagia Sofia, or what about the designer of the jewels worn by the Duchess of Windsor? We remember the works themselves because they are fantastic, timeless and deserving of notice.

It’s not difficult to recognize outstanding works of art, and while there is always an element of “I don’t know much about art, but I know what I like,” a great work of art, be it a painting or a jewel, will always retain value more effectively. It’s hard to define a great work but it’s more often than not something that displays elements of beauty, excellence in production, and a thorough understanding of the materials used.

Every jeweller wants to make the sale, but an outstanding piece will always make people sit up and pay attention. A beautiful piece of design will translate into an item of lasting beauty. It’s not the big names themselves that retain resale value, but beautiful treasures. At auction, certainly Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels, Faberge and others will command high prices, but not because they have recognized signatures, but because these companies have a focus on design that results in a beautifully finished product.

It’s eminently important to have the work of a designer add value to the jewels that you offer in business. This ultimately adds value to your business and to the jewels your clients purchase. CJ

1. Antique carved hardstone, pearl and diamond brooch 2. Antique micromosaic and gold brooch made in the Vatican 3. Gem set flower form ring

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Retail Watch

Become a jewellery practitioner in 3 easy steps Whether you’re in a booming market or struggling to make payroll, you can build jewellery sales and your own business by stepping up your own game!

by Todd Wasylyshyn

MANY YEARS AGO, I sold jewellery from a 10-floor suite in a rundown Edmonton office building. The location was half vacant, four floors of it were occupied by an STD clinic, and for a couple of days, I had to walk up 10 storeys because one elevator was condemned by the city and the other went on the fritz!

It was in this place that I recall concluding the sale of a jewellery piece to a customer that was quickly becoming a loyal client. Obviously pleased with the experience, she told me, “You’re not so much of a jeweller as you are my jewellery practitioner.” I had never thought of myself as a practitioner before.

I had gone to university but not for this particular role. Similar to a medical practitioner, our office didn’t advertise, we had a little waiting room with old magazines, we only saw people by appointment, and our main focus was to help our growing list of clients acquire and maintain a healthy selection of jewellery.

I suggest that you start thinking about yourself as a jewellery practitioner in order to earn trust, deliver vital value and develop relationships with clients that will depend on you in the long run. Like a doctor, you and I know things that our “patients” need to know. We’ve learned about synthetic diamonds, HTHP treatments, fracture filling, coloured diamonds, the differences in diamond grading reports, custom designing, the culturing of pearls, variations in gold alloys, jewellery design, the varieties of gemstones, and so on. If you don’t know much about any of these topics, you’ve got some work to do!

The first step to becoming a jewellery practitioner is to acquire an encyclopedic volume of jewellery knowledge. The Internet may seem like the place with all of the answers, but you need a higher level of understanding in order to separate the wheat from the chaff. Resigning yourself to letting your clients do all of the research online and then tell you what they want is like a doctor letting people write their own prescriptions based on Google searches.

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It’s preposterous! It takes a lot more research than that to know what Ask.com and Wikipedia say about a subject along with the actual answers from credible sources – and the two don’t always agree!

The second thing you need to master is the ability to deliver your knowledge in a simple manner and when it’s relevant to your “patient’s” condition. When a doctor told me that five weeks of physiotherapy and $500 could get rid of my tennis elbow, his advice to spend money was directed towards my own good.

We’ve heard the saying that money isn’t as important to customers as value. If you can’t share your knowledge about a design with your customer, all you can really talk about is the price. If you know the provenance of a piece, where and how it’s made, why its materials are superior to others, and combine it with your client’s needs and preferences, you can build value. When you build value, you can literally tell people to spend their money for their own good.

The third thing you need to establish is professionalism. A professional is one who ascribes to a statement (or profession) of values. A doctor takes the Hippocratic Oath and belongs to a local College of Physicians and Surgeons.

A lawyer operates according to the bar association. Engineers and geologists have APEGA as an association to govern their practices. If you belong to the Canadian Jewellers Association, you’re best bet is to actually read and post its Sign of Trust, abide by its guidelines and participate in every way you can.

There are other affiliations that you can use to prove to your clients that you stand for something and answer to somebody. Less credible competitors might pay a membership and belong to the same association, but if you can demonstrate your commitment to and participation in the organization, you can make it count for an unparalleled amount of trust.

We have to take back that authority. We have to become jewellery practitioners. Who wants to have an Internet doctor look down their throat through a webcam? Not me! CJ

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To post or not to post...

It’s really important to put some thought into your posts; great content can be king but putting just anything out there won’t get you anywhere.

Marketing Magic

by Ryan Holtz

ON ANY GIVEN DAY, YOU MAY BE HOLDING YOUR SMARTPHONE in one hand and cleaning your jewellery case with the “infamous” Windex in the other. You’re thinking about what to post on your company’s Facebook page and remember that of your suppliers just provided a picture of a new piece that’s coming in. You assume that your audience will love seeing this. This is the part where I say, “Stop!” In fact, keep cleaning your jewellery case and put your smartphone away until you have finished reading this column.

I recently read that most people look at their smartphone more than they actually look straight ahead of them! Today, an iPhone, Samsung or Windows phone is the most expensive piece of advertising real estate a person can buy. We now know that over 78 per cent of all social media activity is happening on mobile phones or tablets, which means that you do not have the luxury of posting long-winded ads and short stories worthy of having Shakespeare nominate you for an award.

I know that a lot of you are still stuck in the past, recalling back to the days when all you had to do was just show up. All I know that it’s 2015 and as a society, we are shifting at a greater speed than ever! So it’s all about keeping up or getting pushed down. And don’t think of this as a bad thing. On the contrary, this is an exciting time. It has never been CHEAPER to market in terms of money but that doesn’t mean that it requires any less time or effort.

It’s not about short cuts these days but more about strategy.

When you walk into your store and begin preparing for the day ahead, try to do the following: 1. Pull out your phone.

2. Check into your company’s Facebook account.

3. Type in a Facebook status update that wishes everyone a great day or something else on a positive note, like a joke.

4. Pick out a piece from your store’s inventory that’s relevant to the current time and put it into your own writing.

5. Snap a picture with your phone. Yes gents, we want to see those hairy fingers and ladies, we want to see that fresh manicure.

6. Once you have done this, upload the picture onto Facebook (using your smartphone of course) with some text that may say, “I wanted to share with you one of my favourite pieces because…. (At this point, you can tell a heartfelt story as to why YOU like the piece without any supplier descriptions!)

7. Do this every single day.

Need content ideas besides you own product? I’m glad you asked! Here are some basic ones that everyone can relate on: 1. Local weather.

2. Recent local sports team updates.

3. FOOD! 4. Funny jokes. (Make sure everyone finds them funny, not just you).

5. YOUR day. If you are having a bad day, talk about it. If you are having a great day, talk about it! (Check your personal Facebook and you will see your friends talking about their food, clothing, political views, family and just about everything else!)

6. Educational content. (What does clarity mean? How do I find an appraiser? How do I get a custom ring done?)

7. Where you are going for lunch.

8. Tell a story. (This may sound weird, but document your day using social media, this will allow others to see you and your store as “REAL” and not just someone trying to only sell them something).

In summary, think outside of the box when it comes to social media and try to get out of the thought process of being a jeweller! Instead, try to get into your customer’s head to find out what they want to read about. Talk about life and everything in it! Could you imagine having dinner with another person and all they talked about was what they did for a living? Well, it’s the same when it comes to a customer reading mundane information on their jeweller’s Facebook page. Remember to post often, have fun and relax!

Please follow me on Twitter and Instagram @RyanHoltz1 so I can like all of your posts! Also, visit www.RyanHoltz.ca for more tips and tricks! CJ

Ryan is an award-winning, internationally recognized marketer who specializes in automotive, real estate, and jewellery sectors. His areas of focus include marketing consulting, social media training, workshops, digital strategy and implementation, and professional video production. If you have any specific questions, feel free to reach out at info@ryanholtz.ca.

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Breaking and entering

Most burglaries occur within a span of three minutes but there are key steps you can take to avoid inventory loss.

JVC Report

by John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Crime Prevention

IF YOU LEAVE MERCHANDISE ON DISPLAY OVERNIGHT, don’t expect it to be there in the morning. In 2011, Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) had 18 reports of break-ins at retail jewellery stores for a total loss of $1.8 million. In 2012, that number dropped to 14 incidents with a loss of $1.7 million and in 2013, there was a drastic drop to 9 reported cases for a total of $470,000.

These losses didn’t include the cost of damage repairs and in some cases, the loss of business.

In 2014, the number of reported break-ins drastically jumped to 20 incidents with losses amounting to $2.2 million. Most of the break-ins were reported in Western Canada, especially in the Calgary area. In certain cases, the retail jewellers were getting the message and putting most of the valuable merchandise into a safe at night, which reduced their losses. Unfortunately, we know that there is still a large number of jewellers that only cover their cases with a blanket or a cloth and they are mistaken in thinking that the criminals are not aware of what’s underneath.

In 2011, I wrote an article entitled “Hardening of the Target,” in which I mentioned that a number of jewellers believe the police to be the first line of defence against criminal activity. It is the opinion of this writer that in situations involving breaking and entering, this is not true. And this is not a disparaging comment against the police. In fact, I am a strong supporter of the police and work very hard with JVC to support them in their investigations. But many members of our industry must do everything they can to protect themselves. On the Jewelers Mutual Insurance (JMI) website, you can find many suggestions as to how retailers can protect their merchandise. In addition to this, JVC’s crime manual has an extensive section on protecting merchandise at night.

Many retail break-ins are referred to as “Three Minute Burglaries” and consist of smashing a glass window or door, breaking showcases and removing exposed jewellery. The thieves take whatever jewellery has been left out of the safe overnight and get out of the premises as quickly as possible. As soon as they hear the alarm sound, they want to be out of the store in three minutes or less, which is the average time it takes for the police or security guards to respond. When you leave merchandise in your showcases, you are inviting criminals to break-in. “Three minute burglars” know an alarm is likely to sound but they plan to be gone in just a few

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minutes. They have no intention of attacking the safe. These types of thieves, who range from young gang members and drug addicts to professional burglars, all act alike. If they can see it from outside of the store, they will try to steal it!

Remember that you can invest in a showcase that suits your needs.

Today there are all sorts of showcases that come with various preventative measures. There are certain models out there that allow for the showcase bed to lower into a metal cabinet with the push of a button. This way, merchandise is out of sight and much harder to get at. High-end watches and diamonds should always be placed in a safe or a vault.

The following are recommendations for reducing three-minute burglaries: 1. Never leave merchandise out and visible overnight, regardless of value.

2. If you do not have enough room in your main safe, consider buying a second, less expensive safe for your lower-end merchandise.

3. Metal grating or gates, which can be rolled down each night, should be installed on the inside of your store windows and doors. Alarms will sound when the glass is broken and before burglars even reach the gates. Metal gates inside the doors and windows discourage three-minute burglaries because of the extra time required to cut through them.

4. Proper lighting, good visibility into your store overnight, appropriate deadbolt locks, and video surveillance systems capable of running 24 hours a day help keep burglars away.

5. Making sure that the glass in your windows and doors is made of break&-enter-resistant glazing materials listed with Underwriters Laboratories can further protect your premises. A sign in the window stating that it’s made out of special break-&-enter resistant glass might help discourage attacks.

6. Make sure that you understand your insurance requirements regarding leaving goods out of the safe overnight.

7. Make sure that mall security will check your store immediately upon discovery of any forced entry into the mall. Despite the temptation of dozens of other stores, a jeweller is often the prime or only target for criminals breaking into a mall.

If a criminal sees exposed jewellery inside your store, his business is to break in and take it! Would you leave cash out in your showcases overnight?

Treat jewellery the same way. CJ

MARCH 2015

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Join JVC And You Will Be Golden The 19th Annual Golf Tournament, Dinner & Silent Auction Join us and play the north course, which tested some of the world’s finest golfers during the 2002 Bell Canadian Open.

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For more information, contact: Carla Adams 416-368-4840 or info@jewellersvigilance.ca

Jewellers Vigilance Canada An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry.

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Working with classics Style Council

Black clothing is a staple in any woman’s closet, whether it’s a little black dress, a pair of sleek black trousers, or a polished leather jacket. Pairing these items with the time-honoured elegance of gold will carry your customer out of winter’s frigid days and straight into spring’s warm arms.

Working with an all black or dark ensemble and varying styles of gold jewellery allows for countless looks that are both effortless and exquisite. And while mixing metals these days is no longer a fashion faux pas, having your customer match all of their jewellery to a gold tone is the ultimate homage to tradition. Your client can never go wrong with classic black and radiant gold. CJ

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1. Topshop Moto Dark Vintage Wash Jamie Jeans, $70, Available at Topshop at Hudson’s Bay, thebay.com 2. Thomas Sabo Bangle, $929 3. Rigor Lux Cropped Leather Silverfox, $1,250, available at Kahnerts, Hudson’s Bay and fine boutiques across Canada 4. Thomas Sabo Earrings, $264 5. Aldo Lampley leather boots, $140 6. Nova Diamonds Flower design ring in 18k-24.6gr gold, 7.77ctw diamonds, $14,170 7. STEELX Rose Gold Plated “Disc” Necklace, $100

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8. REIGN by PAJ Rose Gold Plated Sterling Silver CZ Ring, $45 9. Stuller 14k rose gold pierced-styled button earrings, $600 10. Topshop Moto Black Coated Joni Jeans, $75, available at Topshop at Hudson’s Bay, thebay.com 11. Rigor Lux Cashmere Wool Python Coat, $950, available at Kahnerts, Hudson’s Bay and fine boutiques across Canada 12. REIGN by PAJ “Bubbles” Collection, Rose Gold Plated Grey Moonstone Necklace, $210 13. ELLE Time Rose Gold Mesh Watch, $179 14. Aldo Oneriwien leather ankle boots, $100 15. Pandora charm bracelet featuring Love All Around with cubic zirconia rose charm, Openwork Hearts rose charm, Family rose charm, Heart rose clip with cubic zirconia, Heart rose charm with cubic zirconia, $885

MARCH 2015

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Last Word

Royal Obsession

Made especially for the Breguet woman, the Volants de la Reine Collection watch is inspired by the graceful and unforgettable Queen Marie Antoinette of France and her ruffled, elegant and iconic costumes. Breguet watchmakers are known for taking inspiration from powerful women throughout history, creating pieces that are bold and seductive. This particular timepiece is no different, set in an 18k white cold case, featuring a mother-of-pearl dial, and embedded with 20 brilliantcut diamonds. The gem-set bow clinging to the bezel is reminiscent of lacy frills while the baguette diamonds intertwine into a stunning ribbon design. CJ

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STERLING SILVER WITH DIAMONDLITE™ CUBIC ZIRCONIA Inquire 866-837-3553 • reign@paj.ca

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TIME & JEWELRY

Find an authorized dealer at ELLEJEWELRY.COM elle@paj.ca

Find an authorized retailer at ELLEJEWELRY.COM

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