Canadian Jeweller Magazine - May 2013 by Canadian Jeweller Magazine

mag.

CAnAdiAn jeWeller For the business of retailing jewellery since 1879

MAy 2013

064. The Silver lining Is Silver’s shIne dImmIng the outlook for gold? 088. The lap of luxury the challenges of sellIng high-end jewellery In canada

Mag.

108. hearT of gold armenia Is fInally enterIng Its golden age + en françaiS 072. influenceS 2014

colIn nash

074. du rÊve À la rÉalItÉ

london calling

nash jewellers Is a southwestern ontarIo gem 056.

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sCAn Me TO GO TO OUr WeBsiTe

countdown to our

P u b l I c at I o n s m a I l 4 0 6 7 8 0 0 0

6 0 blo o r st re e t w e st suIt e 110 6 , to ro n to o n, m 4w 3 b 8

$25

135thAnnivers AnniversAry

24 Gold Group Ltd. Gold Dealer & Refining Company

www.baselworld.com

The Ashley Anne Collection

27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621 www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: info@midasjewelryinc.ca Made in Canada with Canadian gold

Whether your needs are simple or elaborate, let Midas be your Source for select Wedding Bands. We specialize in custom orders, small or large, and are positioned to increase your sales margins. At Midas, we manufacture in all precious metals and also offer:

New 19K Extreme White© • Displays • Marketing Kits • Buy-back Programs Incentive Programs • Co-op Advertising

Watch for us at the following tradeshows: CGTA Toronto CJ Expo Toronto Booth 7529 August 11-14

August 11-13

CJ Expo Edmonton CGTA Edmonton August 16-18

Booth 4417 August 18-21

Expo Prestige, Montreal August 26-28

877.593.0922 | lotusorders@eastlink.ca www.jewelpop.com

Also available from Lotus Jewellery : 速

速

Watch for us at the following tradeshows: CGTA Toronto CJ Expo Toronto CJ Expo Edmonton CGTA Edmonton Expo Prestige, August 11-13 August 16-18 Booth 4417 Montreal Booth 7529 August 18-21 August 26-28 August 11-14 877.593.0922 | lotusorders@eastlink.ca www.jewelpop.com

Also available from Lotus Jewellery :

Showcase your

MAGNiFiCENT JEWEllERy at these WORlD-ClASS jewellery events JUNE Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair One OF ASiA’S TOp Three Fine JeweLLery evenTS 20 - 23 June 2013 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

SEPTEMBER Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair The wOrLD’S nUMBer One Fine JeweLLery evenT 11 - 15 September 2013 AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong

13 - 17 September 2013

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

To exhibit, please contact: Sales Department, Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2516 1677 / 2585 6179 Fax: (852) 3749 7319 Email: salesjgf-hk@ubm.com

www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

An Esteemed Venue for Hong Kong Avant-garde Jewellers Halls 1D & 1E • Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair | 20 – 23 Jun 2013 September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair | 13 – 17 Sep 2013 Exhibitor list of HKPP in 2013 Advan Jewelry Limited Aspire Designs Limited Brilliant Diamond Jewellery Ltd Bri-Star Jewellers Limited Crescendo Jewellery Design Ltd Dimexon (Hong Kong) Limited E & V Jewellery (HK) Limited East Arts Jewelry Manufactory Limited EJI Forward Jewellery Manufacturing Limited Hong Kong Perfect Jewellery Company Ltd Hong Kong Universal Jewellery Limited ICY Jewellery Design K T L Jewellery Manufacturer Limited Karp Jewellery Mfg HK Limited Kiran Jewels HK Limited La Vie Premium Limited Legrand Jewellery (Mfg) Company Limited Lorenzo Jewelry Limited

Man Sang Group - Arcadia Jewellery Mega Gold Jewellery Company Limited Nelson Jewellery Arts Co Ltd Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd Ritone Jewelry International Limited San J Jewellery Limited Sunlight Jewelers Limited Sunlight Jewellery Design Ltd Sunny Creations Ltd Technic International Jewellery Company Limited Thousand Million Jewellery Manufacturing Limited Trigrand Ltd Unico Jewellery Limited Universal Jewellery Design Center Limited Vista Jewelry Limited Waddy Jewellery Group Limited Wak Design Ltd Wing Hang Jewellery Company Limited

Information as of 1 February 2013

To exhibit, please contact: Sales Department, Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2585 6179 / 2516 1677 | Fax: (852) 3749 7319 Email: salesjgf-hk@ubm.com | Website: www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

SHE DREAMS IN PLATINUM

For the bride-to-be who wants her special ring to also be one-of-a-kind, platinum is the answer. Through 3C: Choose/Change/Create™, you can offer platinum and endless options for center stones, accents, engraving and more — all backed by Stuller’s quality assurance and speedy delivery. Call 800-877-7777, or visit stuller.com. Visit us at JCK Las Vegas, booths: PC-850, ET&S B6265 and B6379

From a vast selection of items online or in our catalogues.

Elements to customize your selection.

One-of-a-kind jewellery with CounterSketch® Studio or CAD.

stuller.com

800 877 7777

canadian jewelLer

Hypnotic.

Mag. Mag.

Hand-cut and bezel-set with a white diamond, each Glenn Lehrer-designed TorusRing™ gemstone features a faceted

EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 • vol. 132, no. 1 Established 1879

cone carved into its back. This

MAY 2013 / vol. 134 / no. 04

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com Olivier Felicio Publisher / olivier@rivegauchemedia.com lucy holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com

heart-stopping effect will leave

Lucy Holden

your customers hypnotized.

Associate Publisher / lucy@rivegauchemedia.com

Carol besler Consulting Editor Janine Druery Editor / janine@canadianjeweller.com Paul aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com Irina Lytchak

Assistant Editor / irina@gorgmgo.com

Melanie Seth

Controller & Operations / finance@gorgmgo.com

scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com Elena Viltovskaia Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com Malcolm Brown Art Director / mbrown@rivegauchemedia.com stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | production@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos Creative Business Coordinator / erin@gorgmgo.com

R io Gra nde. Recommended by jewelers since 194 4.

Melanie seth Controller & Operations | finance@rivegauchemedia.com Henry Fonseca Finance Administrator / henry@gorgmgo.com sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | sunjoyo@rivegauchemedia.com Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | erin@gorgmgo.com

CONTRIBUTORS Frank De Jesús, Véronique Dubé, Brian Hillier, Masha Gladchenko (editorial intern), Sarah B. Hood, Janet Lamont, John Lamont, Silvana Longo, Sarah O’Connor, chris Davey, lorraine Depasque, Martin irving, Matt Sendbuehler, Bonnie Siegler, CONtRibUtORs Sevan Titizian Wenxiu Yu, Robin Wong JohnAlice lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean

MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Dean

Editorial & EID Board sanderson, bonnie siegler. Zinnia Crawford; Gino Devuono, Movado Group Of Canada; Andre Hopson; Paul McFarland, Chanel; salEs Norma Meneguzzi, Spall; Marco Miserendino, Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc.; Zaman Bullion Mart Inc.; Phyllis Richard, JVC-Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc.; Beth AssociAte publisher lucyMoniruz, holden The Sanders, Canadian CJG; Sevan Titizian, Gemcorp International tel . (416)Jewellery 203-7900 Group ext. 6117 email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com sales Associate Publisher Lucy Holden Jeff Yamaguchi ADVertisiNG sAles tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com

Jeff Yamaguchi Advertising Sales sAles Karolann Cassman ADVertisiNGtel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122 tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126 email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com email karolann@gorgmgo.com CIRCULATION

publicAtioNPUBLICATION pArtNersPARTNERS CiRCUlatiON Garth Atkinson Garth atkinson

TorusRing™ gemstones and Rio’s custom-designed mountings are available exclusively at riogrande.com:

torusring

345 Kingston road, suite 101 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101 pickering, ontario, l1V Ontario 1A1 L1V 1A1 Pickering, toll free 1-877-547-2246 toll free 1-877-547-2246 email cj@publicationpartners.com email cj@publicationpartners.com

60 bloor street 60 West, Bloorsuite Street1106 West, Suite 1106, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3B8 head Office Head Office tel. M4W (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 toronto, ontario, 3b8 tel . (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392 2348 Lucerne, Suite 230, Mont-Royal, Quebec H3R 2J8 Montreal Office tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 West, suite 1507 Montreal Office 555 chabanel street toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117 Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2

tel .

(514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223 1-888-358-8186 S u b s c rext. i p t i 6117 o n R at e s

toll free

Canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. subscription Rates Bulk rate (Canada only, for six or more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per year.

Check our Website for Monthly Specials! 888.225.6422 riogrande.com Phone 1.800.663.6472 Fax 1.800.316.2999 Email: Karat@Karatgroup.com www.karatimports.com

canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide issues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide — six or more subscriptions, $17.50 Chan g e $40. o f bulk A d drates r e ss per subscription per cj@publicationpartners.com year (canada only). email: telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735

or send your cover label and Change new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1 of address

email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc. or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1 Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement 40678000. Published by Rive GaucheNo. Media ii inc. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the

canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration the fault of the publisher and inbe such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication under the the following all material submitted editorialJeweller consideration illustrations, written text in electronic or consideration hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jewelmay be reproduced, in all or part, without expressconditions: written permission of the publisher.for canadian magazine(photographs, is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial ler and its affiliates forfor editorial in any(photographs, media (whether printed, written electronic, disc, the consent orby the paymentJeweller of compensation to, the party providing such under the following conditions: all material submitted editorialpurposes consideration illustrations, text internet, in electronic oretc.) hardwithout copy format) may be of, used canadian material.in Please direct submissions toelectronic, the Editor, Canadian Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, Street West, and their affiliates for editorial purposes any media (whether printed, internet, disc,Jeweller. etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to,60 theBloor party providing suchSte. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8. material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

CMCA AUDITED Official magazine of JVC

details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

GAD_CJ_AprilMay2013_LehrerGems+.indd 1

January/February 2011

3/8/13 11:26 AM

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

Please visit us in Las Vegas, LUX 931 Fernando Marques: fernando@indiahicksjewelry.com (917) 312-0091

CONTENTS.01 / VOL. 134 / NO. 04 CJMag.Departments 18 EDITOR’S NOTE 20

LETTER FROM THE PRIME MINISTER

PRODUCT SHOWCASE

34 STAR WATCH After a long winter, celebrities dazzle in hot styles. 38 FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events 44

CJ GALLERY Jazzing it up with Stuller; Celebrating “smart luxury”; Rado gets onto the court; Windy City hosts SMART show

54 CJ INTERVIEW Baume & Mercier makes a return to its heritage under the direction of Rudy Chavez. BY IRINA LYTCHAK 78 COMPANY PROFILE Charles Garnier Paris merges old-world craftsmanship and design and with modern-day ideas and technology. BY JANINE DRUERY

DESIGNER PROFILE Bcouture’s jewellery is vibrant, sophisticated and stylish – just like the women who wear it. BY JANINE DRUERY

83 MENTORS Q&A with Matt Stuller BY IRINA LYTCHAK 84

NEW GENERATION Three industry insiders talk about “growing up” in the family business BY SARAH O’CONNOR

114

JVC COLUMN Investigating jewellery crime in Canada BY JOHN LAMONT

120

SHOWCASE/MARKETPLACE

128

STYLE COUNCIL Wild Luxury

130

LAST WORD Graceful Asymmetry

CJ EN FRANçAIS 67 Les Nouvelles 72 Influences 2014 74

Du rêve à la réalité

80 Cover Photograph by Brian Hillier

M AY 2 0 1 3 / c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

PETITE ROPE

C O N S T E L L AT I O N C O L L E C T I O N charlesgarnier.com info@charlesgarnier.com

J O I N U S AT J C K 2 0 1 3

THE CANADIAN JEWELRY EXPO 2013 C A L L F O R I N F O R M AT I O N (213) 892-0075 OPTION 1

CONTENTS.02 / VOL. 134 / NO. 04 CJMag.Features 56 LONDON CALLING The last two generations of the Nash family were encouraged to follow their own paths. As luck would have it, those roads led them right back to the family business. BY FRANK DE JESÚS

THE SILVER LINING Silver’s prestige is definitely rising – but is it dimming the outlook for gold? BY SARAH B. HOOD

88 PASSPORT TO LUXURY As the high-end jewellery business evolves in Canada, people no longer have to travel abroad to buy statement pieces. But selling luxury is not without its challenges. BY SILVANA LONGO 94 BASELWORLD 2013 This "show of shows" features everything that is bright, bold and beautiful

SIHH 2013 The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2013. What a time!

104

HONG KONG: A GLITTERING ANNIVERSARY As 42,000 buyers will attest, the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show was the place to be. BY ALICE WENXIU YU 106

106

INHORGENTA MUNICH: AFFORDABLE LUXURY The leading show for Germans is gaining importance as a global event.

108

ARMENIA: HEART OF GOLD The ancient land of kings and emperors is finally entering its golden age. BY SEVAN TITIZIAN

118

2012 ANNUAL CRIME REPORT Jewellers Vigilance Canada's annual crime report (Part Two) BY JANET LAMONT

108

M AY 2 0 1 3 / c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

SHOWCASING YOUR PASSION FOR

JEWELRY M A Y

3 1 – J U N E

3 ,

2 0 1 3

LAS VEGAS, NV M A N D A L AY B AY R E S O R T & C A S I N O R E G I S T E R T O D AY: W W W. J C K O N L I N E . C O M / L A S V E G A S

S c a n t h i s QR co de w it h yo ur s m ar t p h o ne to ge t a p r evi ew o f yo ur e nh ance d JC K L as Ve g a s exp e r ie nce .

editor'snote

Transitions & Renewals Janine Druery Editor

But May – and the spring season – is a time of renewal for many of us, even if it’s only in a small way. For me, the promise of warm air, sandals and a nearby patio is enough to propel me forward and shrug off the lingering winter chill. I don’t want to draw too much of a parallel, but I think it’s fair to say Canadian Jeweller is also going through something of a renewal. As you can see, I have taken the reins as editor, and the magazine has a talented, new art director and a revamped editorial team. Together, we have set our sights on revitalizing the magazine – watching it bloom, if you will. The first changes are very evident in this issue – new life has been breathed into the design. The magazine’s look is fresher, more contemporary and is intended to enrich your reading experience. And there are a few editorial changes. There is a new“Mentors” section (see page 83), in which industry giants impart their wisdom to younger generations. And we have introduced "Style Council" (page 112) where we match jewellery with the hottest fashion trends. Other changes are also on their way. The modifications, just like the first signs of spring, might not be noticeable at first. They will occur gradually, and will bring you the best the industry has to offer in an interesting, informative and visually arresting manner.

M AY 2 0 1 3 / c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

It is an honour to be guiding Canada’s oldest magazine, and the legacy and history of the publication are important to carry forward. As the publication enters its 135th year, the excitement is absolutely palpable. I’m eager to make my foray into the industry, meet the people within it, and put out a publication filled with top-rate stories, news and issues pertaining to the business of jewellery retailing in Canada. So please get in touch – I’d love to hear your thoughts about the magazine and what you’d like to see in it. In the meantime, enjoy merry May. Whatever the spring season means to you – renewal, transition, rejuvenation – it’s finally here, and it’s wonderful.

photo by malcolm brown

The “merry month of May” has a unique connotation, depending on where you live in this big, beautiful country of ours. It can mean foliage and glorious sunshine, or it can mean you haven’t retired your Sorels and parka just yet.

letter from the prime minister

M AY 2 0 1 3 / 足c 足足 a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

I am pleased to extend my warmest greetings and congratulations to the readers and publishers of Canadian Jeweller magazine, which next year marks its 135th anniversary. For over a century, your publication has provided designers, manufacturers, and consumers with unique and timely information on the art and craft of fine jewellery, fashion trends, and business developments in Canada and abroad. Canada is not only a leading source of precious metals and gemstones, it is also at the forefront of jewellery design, production, and retail. This milestone offers an opportunity to reflect on the history of your publication and the important role it has played in shaping a forward‐ looking jewellery industry that is proud of its achievements. I would like to commend everyone involved in the production of Canadian Jeweller magazine for your continued commitment to promoting this sector of our country's economy. Please accept my best wishes for a memorable anniversary celebration and for every future success.

The Rt. Hon. Stephen Harper, P.C., M.P. OTTAWA 2013

c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m / M AY 2 0 1 3

contributors

Véronique DUBé

John Lamont

Sarah B. Hood

Silvana Longo

Véronique Dubé is a trilingual freelance copywriter, translator and proofreader. After years working in jewellery business, she joined an advertising agency and pursued her passion for writing. As a result, her language skills, jewellery background and journalism have combined to make her an oh-so versatile contributor.

Sarah B. Hood is a Toronto-based freelance journalist who explores the culture of fashion, food, urban life in her many books and articles. Her work has been shortlisted for the National Magazine Awards, the Kenneth R. Wilson Awards (including her work for Canadian Jeweller) and the Taste Canada awards.

M AY 2 0 1 3 / c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

John Lamont is the Director of Loss Prevention for Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), which provides loss prevention to the jewellery and watch industry. If anyone knows his stuff it’s John: he spent 20 years with the Toronto Police Service (investigating many armed robberies during his last six years with the Toronto Holdup Squad) and was a Loss Prevention Manager at Peoples Jewellers for 25 years.

An advocate of fine living and pretty things, Silvana Longo has covered the scope of beauty in all its forms. Her editorial career has taken her from unveiling makeup trends as a beauty editor to penning fashion stories and profiles on designers. It was a natural evolution to embrace the world of luxury jewellery in this issue on page 88.

Sarah O’Connor

Sarah O’Connor, a frequent contributor to Canadian Jeweller, takes a look inside the multi-generational aspect of the industry in this issue’s “Great Expectations” on page 84. A lover of jewellery (her fave is her engagement ring which her husband customdesigned), she looks at the issues young jewellers face when “growing up in the biz.”

Sevan Titizian

Sevan Titizian started in the jewellery business at a young age, working in luxury retail stores, and then graduating from the Gemological Institute of America with a degree in diamond grading. She now works with her family at Gemcorp International, producing quality crafted pieces of finished jewellery. A world traveller, Sevan examines the Armenian jewellery market on page 108.

The Bulova Accutron Calibrator: Innovation never rests. The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first Swiss Made automatic timepiece that gives you the power to fine tune its accuracy. With the simple use of a key inserted at the 9 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock position, our proprietary External Fine Adjustment System (EFAS) lets you control the accuracy of your mechanical watch without the need for a technician. The result is 99.99% accuracy.

www.bulova.com

productshowcase

product showcase

1 3

1. YOUR CLIENTS CAN NOW BE DIAMONDS

3. E.G.M. Ecole de Gemmologie

Augenstern manufactures diamonds using the carbon from the hair of your clients or from the hair of their dearest loved ones. An Augenstern Hair Diamond is the perfect product to commemorate a very special moment in life like a wedding or the arrival of a new baby. Children can seal their bond within an Augenstern Hair Diamond by combining their hair carbon and offer their parents a unique piece of jewellery. Contact us to became an Augenstern Hair Diamond retailer.

EGM is an established and respected gemmology school. At EGM, complete your studies in gemmology in six months or as an ODL (Open Distance Learning) student and earn the prestigious internationally recognized title of FGA (Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain, Gem-A). Broaden your employment opportunities with an EGM Gem & Jewellery Appraisal diploma and discover the fascinating world of rough diamonds grading and valuation. egmschool.com, 514-8440024.

2. QUALITY and custom care: crescendo

This Canadian-made, two-tone gold and diamond pendant features .68 ct tdw and is available for order online at crescendojewellery.com. Visit our website to browse our complete collection of gold, silver and platinum jewellery.

M AY 2 0 1 3 / 足c 足足 a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

You are invited to join us in Las Vegas for the launch of our new

CANADIAN DIAMOND BRAND

and to see our sensational designs

Dare to be Canadian “

Canadian Center Diamond Canadian Certified Gold Made in Canada

“

I AM M A D E IN CANADA

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Jewellery designed and hand crafted in Canada

Proudly... Our Canadian Brands J Promise

™

Canadian Diamond

TrulyCanadian CERTIFIED GOLD

Blushing Bride

together

PERFECT

wedding bells ™ Canadian Diamond

TOGETHER WE BECOME AS ONE

I, Giovanni Vaccaro,

J Promise

Blushing Dare to beBride Canadian TrulyCanadian TM

™

Canadian Diamond

CERTIFIED GOLD

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Canadian Diamond

Our Promise

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Tel: 905-737-3069 Toll Free: 1-866-812-7436

together

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productshowcase

1. Ttva Reflects you:

Innovative. Solitaires. One carat look. One-fifth the price. The TTVA innovative solitaire’s one carat center stone looks 50 per cent larger than a traditional one carat solitaire and they are 1/5 of the price. 2. Jewelhouse Canada

PLATINA 4 is a patented and uniquely innovative combination of four precious metals: silver, palladium, gold and platinum. PLATINA 4 is an attractive and significantly more affordable alternative to gold and more costly metals, for both the retailer and the customer. 3. Introducing Boudicca

Introducing JewelPop Inc’s fabulous new Celtic-infused sterling silver jewellery line called Boudicca. This stunning sterling silver and amethyst

M AY 2 0 1 3 / c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

torque pendant is the perfect piece to honour your Celtic heritage. jewelpop.com; phone: 877-593-0922; email: lotusorders@eastlink.ca 4. ZEADES

Monte-Carlo presents a unique concept for ladies and gentlemen, based on the use of Italian genuine leather as the heart of our creations of jewellery, watches and accessories, designed in the prestigious nutshell of the principality of Monaco. Classic and contemporary meet in Metropolis, the newest arrival to join the Zeades men’s Offshore collection. Inspired by the smooth understated favourites among 60s and 70s watches, the new timepiece adds all the comfort, design innovation and complications inherent in contemporary watchmaking.

productshowcase

1. A Girl's Best Friend: Nova Diamonds

A lady can always use another pair of earrings. Nova Diamonds double teardrop earrings should be that pair. This brilliant set features 18K white gold and almost nine total carats of VS-SI clarity E and F colour, white diamonds. Retail price: $26,225 Call Nova Diamonds today at 416.868.6682 Ref: ER8-1470 2. Porto di Portofino Layered Necklace: $565.00

Sterling silver necklace with two delicate layered chains. Finished with round-cut, yellow-gold plated cubic zirconia coloured stones in bright peach, cat's eye orange and translucent orange.

M AY 2 0 1 3 / 足c 足足 a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

3. Let it sparkle! Let it shine!

Our new "Portal Micro Pave" Collection by Elle Jewelry does just that. This sterling silver rhodium plated collection features sleek disc shapes covered in tiny scintillating cubic zirconia in micro pave setting creating maximum brilliance. This collection includes a variety of styles in pendants, earrings, bracelets, rings and of course our signature ruby logo. Affordable luxury at its best. Necklace: retail cost $229. Earrings: retail cost $219.

Celebrating

Years of Memories 1913 - 2 013

100 years is a good start. From a small group of jewellers looking to create better insurance for their businesses to the North American jewellery industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trusted protector and advisor. It has been an outstanding century for our members. And our next century looksâ&#x20AC;Ś brilliant. Learn more about the 100th anniversary of Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company at JewelersMutual.ca/history.

productshowcase

4 2

1. STULLER HAS YOU COVERED

3. Sheer Simplicity

We want to make doing business with Stuller easier than ever for you. Take advantage of our extended ordering cut-off time of 3:00 p.m. (your local time) and our flat rate shipping special: Any package under five lbs. ships for $29.99 USD, via FedEx. Visit stuller.com to learn more.

These classic earrings are one of our most popular sellers. They are simple, elegant and multi-purpose. Gorgeous cabachon smokey quartz is accented by checker board cut smokey quartz. The 14kt gold handmade earrings are available in several colours: amethyst, citrine, blue topaz, lapis and can be customized to your taste. Retail value: $900.

2. GIA 4Cs App – Retailer Edition for iPad

4. Atlantic

GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used at point of sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate customers about how GIA grades the 4Cs and offers direct access to GIA’s online database of GIA reports.

M AY 2 0 1 3 / c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

New from our Passion Noir Collection, gent's and ladies matching duo. 10K white gold 6mm comfort fit set with 4 x 0.015crt and a 14K red gold comfort fit set with 4 x 0.10crt. Diamond cut on seamless tubing blanks.

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CELEBRATING

“Thank you so much to all our loyal customers, staff, friends and the Organization of Women in International Trade for making us 2012’s Ontario Woman Exporter of the Year. In appreciation, receive 7% off any order over $1000 between May 15-June 15, 2013.

YEARS

IN THE SHOW BUSINESS

Package 701: Assorted 10kt. gold Pendants with

Package 706: 10kt W gold 3mm - 12 month

Gemstones (app. 4x4mm) & CZ.

gemstone earrings. All 12 pairs for $144 (Your choice $15/pr.)

Package 725: 10/14kt Gold Fresh Water Pearl Pendants

Package 744: 14kt. Gold Freshwater Pearl

Earrings: a, b: 8.5-9mm, c. 7.5-8mm d. 7-7.5mm, e. 5.5-6mm

Package 722: 10kt W/Y gold 5mm - 12 month

gemstone earrings. All 12 pairs for $270 (Your choice $30/pr.)

All 5 pairs for $125 (Your choice: $30/pr.)

Both Pendants for $24 (Your choice: $15/ea.)

Assorted Pendants for $36 (as low as $6/ea.)

Package 751: 10kt. Gold Earrings, set with

Gemstone (7x5mm): a. Garnet, b. Blue Topaz, c. Citrine, d. Opal, e. Sapphire, f. Peridot, g. Iolite, h. Amethyst, i. Aquamarine.

Package 812: 10kt. Y/W Gold Bracelets

accented by 2 Dia. & 10 Gemstones (5x3mm): a. Ruby, b. Tanzanite, c. Emerald, d. Sapphire

Package 891: 10kt. Gold Rings, set with genuine Gemstone & 2 Diamonds: a. Sapphire, b. Emerald, c. Ruby, d. Citrine, e. Garnet f. Opal

Package 402: 10kt YGold Cross Pendants with 3mm Gemstone a. Emerald b. Ruby c. Sapphire d. Tanzanite a.

a. d.

b. g.

e. c.

d. All 9 pairs for $270 (Your choice: $45/pr.)

Your choice of any Bracelet $175 (available in other stones)

Package 408: 10kt Y Gold French Wire Earrings set with 6x4mm Gemstones and White Sapphires: a. Amethyst, b. Blue Topaz, c. Opal, d. Aquamarine, e. Citrine, f. Garnet, g. Ruby, & h. Peridot a.

Package 900: 14kt W/Y gold Ruby and Emerald Cherry Design Earrings & Pendant. Earrings Approx. 5cts of 5mm Rubies, 0.60cts of Emerald. Pendant Approx 2.5cts Ruby & 0.30cts of Emerald.

All 6 Rings for $540 (Your Choice $100/ea.)

Your choice: $40/pc.

(also available in other gemstones)

Package 902: 14kt heavy W/Y gold pendants

set with 4cts of genuine gemstones and 0.27cts of diamonds. a. Amethyst, b. Blue Topaz, c. Ruby, d. Opal a. b.

Package 908: 14kt Y/W Genuine Multi-coloured Gemstone (Aquamarine, Green Amethyst, Lemon Quartz, Amethyst and Citrine) Chandelier Earrings. Set with over 20cts of Gemstones. a. Centre Stone – Green Amethyst b. Centre Stone – Lemon Quartz a.

$140/pr. Pendant $75/pc.

Earrings

All 8 pairs for $250 (Your Choice $35/pr.)

Please Visit us at the following Shows 2013

SHOW

DATE

BOOTH

VENUE

1. Las Vegas 2. New York 3. Toronto 4. Toronto 5. Edmonton 6. Montreal

May 30-Jun 3/13 Jul 28-30/13 Aug 11-13/13 Aug 11-13/13 Aug 16-18/13 Aug 25-27/13

#639 #2653-55 #429/528 #2309 #523/622 #218

AGTA, Mandalay Bay Convention Jacob Javits Convention Center Metro Toronto Convention Center Mode Show,Doubletree by Hilton, Dixon Rd. Shaw Conference Centre Expo Prestige, Palais Des Congres

All 4 pendants for $900 (Your choice $275/ea.)

(also available in other gemstones, pls. inquire)

Your Choice $225/pr.

YOUR SATISFACTION IS GUARANTEED Offer is valid while quantities last. ORDER NOW! Please order by package NO’S. Please Add $20.00 for S&H, OR $50.00/ 1lb. FEDEX.

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21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306 Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 CANADA Tel: 416-214-2582 Fax: 416-214-4626

For more Products visit our website at

www.bbjw.com info@bbjw.com 1-800-661-4871

productshowcase

1. FIVE STAR GOLD

3. HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR

Couture ring in faceted and smooth ceramic, decorated with 18-karat white gold ring set, with pave-set diamonds by Guy Laroche Joaillerie. In perfect harmony with the Parisian fashion house, this ring embodies the essence of perfect elegance. SRP: $3,130

The June and September editions of the show serve as a comprehensive platform to advocate the jewellery trade every year. A strong track record of excellence has made both events prominent fixtures in the global jewellery trade’s events calendar. Save the date and plan your visit now! For pre-registration, please visit jewellerynetasia.com

2. classic pearls: Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company

The Pearls of Wisdom jewellery care brochure is offered by Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company. Featuring tips to help customers keep their jewellery safe and sparkling, it makes a great leave-behind! It’s also downloadable for websites. 800-558-6411, ext. 2118

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ENGAGEMENT & WEDDING RINGS

Care. Quality. Clarity

order online 45 Lesmill Road

www. crescendoj ewel l ery . com

| Toronto, ON | CANADA | M3B 2T8 | 1-800-387-0111

starwatch

star-studded styles After a long winter, celebrities dazzle in hot styles

Put a Ring on It For the Los Angeles premiere of "Iron Man 3" at the El Capitan Theatre, Jaimie Alexander wore a Bavna ring, set in 18k yellow gold, accented by a beautiful opal and several petals of white, round, brilliant-cut diamonds ($7,600).

Bangle Makes the Circuit When doesn’t Jennifer Lopez sparkle? She certainly didn’t disappoint, looking her most beautiful in a Bavna 18k gold and diamond bangle ($19,900) that she wore to both the Tommy Hilfiger west coast flagship opening and the Topshop LA opening party.

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Complete your gemmological studies at an established and respected gemmology school EGM in the vibrant city of MONTREAL Earn

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Star Quality Salma Hayek looked radiant at the "Grown Ups 2" photo call at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Cancun, Mexico. The stunning actress wore a pair of Bavna 18k yellow gold earrings, set with turquoise, yellow diamonds and iridescent emeralds ($2,650).

Putting the Bling in Spring It seems as though young Hollywood star Vanessa Hudgens has fallen head over heels in love with Sutra’s 18k gold and diamond earrings (price upon request). She wore them to the "Spring Breakers" Paris premiere and New York Fashion Week. At the Diane Von Furstenberg fashion show, Hudgens wore Sethi’s 18k white gold diamond micro prong loop earrings ($2,300).

Master-ful Looks Amy Adams has been doing some serious globetrotting of late, receiving kudos for her role in "The Master." She positively dazzled in the Norman Silverman 12.84ct diamond earrings ($160,000) she wore to the Weinstein Company’s Post-BAFTA party hosted by Chopard and Grey Goose in London. Back on U.S. soil, Adams wore Sutra’s 18k blackened gold opal ring with diamonds ($14,000) on “The Tonight Show with Jay Leno.”

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See us at JCK Prestige Promenade Pavilion Booth #7 See us at JCK Prestige Promenade Pavilion Booth #7 Five Star Gold Inc. Toll Free : 1Five (800) Star691 Gold 9383 Inc. Toll Free info@fivestargold.ca : 1 (800) 691 9383 info@fivestargold.ca

for the record

News / Trends / Events

BIRKS UNVEILS RARE YELLOW DIAMOND

Birks unveiled a stunning 16-carat yellow diamond in its Edmonton Manulife location in April – one of the most unique and rare diamonds in the world. The $1.8M unique fancy intense yellow diamond, which is flanked by additional pave diamonds and set in a platinum ring, is one of 20 pieces in a luxurious traveling trunk show collection called ‘Dare to Dream’. Other pieces include a three-carat light pink diamond and a one-carat fancy light blue diamond. Last year, Birks showed a $2.5M pink diamond that sold to a buyer in Western Canada. “We premiered the $2.5-million pink diamond last year. There was a lot of interest last year and we decided to repeat the experience,” says Eva Hartling, director of public relations and events for Birks. After leaving Edmonton, the trunk show goes on the road to Calgary and Vancouver Birks stores.

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YOSH KAWADA TO HEAD SEIKO U.S.

Yosh Kawada has been appointed president and CEO of Seiko Corp. of America, a subsidiary of Seiko Watch Corp. In addition to his new role, Kawada will also serve as Senior VP for Seiko Watch Corp., located in Tokyo. Kawada has served as senior vice president of Seiko Corp. of America since 2010. “I am honoured to achieve the esteemed position of president and CEO of Seiko Corp. of America,” says Kawada. “I assume this role during an exciting time for the brand’s influence in the United States, and plan to implement successful strategies that will continue to bring the company to the forefront of the timepiece industry.”

“This latest update further enhances the retail experience,” says Patrick Drummond, VP of Sales and Marketing at Jewelers Mutual. “People who make a jewellery purchase, and are told about Jewelers Mutual’s Perfect Circle Jewelry Insurance by their trusted jeweller, can quickly and easily obtain a free quote and apply for a policy by accessing our website from their mobile device before they even leave the store.” The site will allow customers to do things like pay bills online, upload jewellery appraisals and report claims. The site will be available 24/7 and will allow policyholders to do faster business. For more information, visit jewelersmutual.com.

DE BEERS WELCOMES NEW CLIENTS

OMEGA WELCOMES STACY LEWIS

Diamond tycoon company De Beers is welcoming several new clients to its team: four Indian companies and one from Hong Kong. With the addition of Asian Star Company, H. Dipak, HVK International, KP Sanghvi & Sons and Wing Hang Company, De Beers now sits at 82 clients, with a contract that will end in 2015. De Beers produces roughly 35 per cent of the world’s supply of rough diamonds and currently runs various operations across Canada. The company has been active in the country for about 50 years, operating Snap Lake Mine in the Northwest Territories and Victor Mine in northern Ontario.

TI SENTO ANTICPATING MOTHER’S DAY

Ti Sento is unveiling a new line up of custom, Italian-style jewellery – just in time for Mother’s Day. With a sophisticated collection of versatile pieces, including handcrafted sterling silver jewellery with 18k gold vermeil, Ti Sento is helping to celebrate moms – all at a starting price point of $39. Several stores across Canada carry Ti Sento, including Victoria Jewellers in Regina; Cupido in Vaughan Mills, ON; Passion for Living in Burlington, ON; Bisogno Jewellers in North York, ON; and Spicer Cole in Fredericton.

Stacy Lewis, the number one women’s golfer in the world and current leader on the 2013 LPGA money list, has joined Omega as its newest brand ambassador. The partnership shines a spotlight on the watchmaker’s support for the golf industry. “I am honoured to join the Omega family,” says the 28-year-old Lewis, who has a portfolio of seven LPGA title wins and a 'Player of the Year' honour after a four-win season in 2012. “This is such an exciting time in my career and I am proud to represent a brand that showcases determination, elegance and power – all things that I value both on and off the course.” Stephen Urguhart, president of Omega says they are thrilled to welcome Stacy Lewis to the family, “where she joins a great group of some of the top players from the world of golf. Her recent surge to the top of the women’s ranking makes her an outstanding role model for professional golfers worldwide.”

TORONTO COMPANY LEADS WITH 3D

A Toronto-based company is allowing people to make their jewellery dreams a reality via 3D technology. HotPopFactory.com creates custom jewellery using a 3D printer. The technological advantages of this type of printing are becoming increasingly popular as it lets people create anything from figurines to food items. “People go crazy for it,” says Compeau, who describes the process as participatory. “It’s something they’ve never seen before, and to have it be so interactive and kind of in your face is pretty amazing.” The team at HotPop uses 3D printing to create jewellery using ABS thermal plastic, which is the same material in Lego bricks and has the ability to adapt to any design.

DOMINION EXPECTS DIAMOND PRICE HIKE

Dominion Diamond Corp. (formerly known as Harry Winston) expects diamond prices to continue to rise throughout 2013. “Larger players now dominate what was once a fragmented market,” says James R.W. Pounds, the company’s executive vice president. Though the diamond demand remains inconsistent in India and China, the U.S. is showing increasing trends in distribution. And, as prices increase, the company has its eyes set on Canada’s Diavik mine.

JEWELERS MUTUAL LAUNCHES WEBSITE

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company has created a new website through which policyholders will be able to manage their accounts – by smartphone or computer. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m / M AY 2 0 1 3

for the record

VAN CLEEF GETS NEW CHIEF

Alain Bernard has been named president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels for the Americas. Bernard, who will be based out of New York, previously worked at Cartier (also part of the Richemont Group, which owns Van Cleef & Arpels and several of the world’s leading luxury goods companies) and served as president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Japan division. “Mr. Bernard’s contributions have been instrumental in Van Cleef & Arpels’ development over a challenging period in Japan,” says Nicolas Bos, worldwide president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels.

Designed to provide instant protection for all types of premises, ranging from small server rooms to retail stores to large warehouses, Smokecloak has been in use in the jewellery industry for over 10 years. For more information, visit smokecloak.ca.

B.C. SHOW HIGHLIGHTS COLOURFUL WORLD OF MINERALS

Canada’s biggest gem show, the BC Gem show, wowed visitors with a wide variety of displays, including a fluorescent mineral display and an array of gemstones, crystals and minerals as well as hand-crafted jewellery and silversmithing. Held in Abbotsford, B.C. from April 12 to 14, more than 40 dealers provided supplies and specimens of crystals, cut stones and gifts. The show’s members demonstrated several jewellery-making techniques including lapidary, sculpting and enameling. Visit lapidary.bc.ca/gemshow.html for more information.

KAMELEON RAISES MONEY FOR THE CURE

Nova Scotia-based Kameleon Jewelry has raised $6,464 for breast cancer in its most recent “Poppin’ for the Cure” campaign. Since it’s inception, Kameleon Jewellery has donated a portion of its proceeds to the fight against breast cancer. Each October, Kameleon offers its retailer’s special Pink Ribbon JewelPops, with two dollars donated per unit throughout the month. In 2012, there were five styles in the range, including a new release featuring a stylized pink ribbon heart. The total raised from sales for the campaign was $5,056, about $2,000 more than the previous year. The company also offered one dollar for every new “like” the Kameleon Jewellery page received on Facebook, raising an addition $1,408. “We are very proud every year of the work our retailers put in to help promote the Pink Ribbon JewelPops,” says Kameleon creator and president, Robert Smith. “Their enthusiasm is what makes this campaign a success year after year. This disease is one that touches so many families, we are happy that we are able to help raise awareness and much needed funds.” All of the money was donated to the Susan G. Coleman Foundation and the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation.

UMICORE GETS NEW MANAGING DIRECTOR

Thelma Chuakay has been chosen as the new managing director of Umicore Precious Metals Canada and Umicore Precious Metals USA. Chuakay has been with Umicore for more than 30 years, serving in the finance department. Chuakay takes over for Thomas Jansseune, who served as managing director for Canada Umicore for the past two years and will move on to head the company’s mergers and acquisitions team in Brussels. Jansseune says Chuakay is very technically capable and will carry on the progress of Umicore. He says “her knowledge of the industry has equipped her with high hopes and profitability for both companies in the future.”

SMOKECLOAK CELEBRATES 20TH ANNIVERSARY

Smokecloak, a world leader in the fog protection industry, is celebrating 20 years of use in Canada. Smokecloak is a security device that, on detection of a burglar in a business, will activate and fill a predetermined space with a harmless dense vapour that will drive the thieves from the premises.

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BULOVA MAKES NEW APPOINTMENTS

Bulova Corp., a global leader in the watch industry, has appointed Sian Williams as president of Bulova Watch Co. Ltd., the Toronto-based subsidiary of Bulova Corp. Williams will replace Steve Taylor as he steps down after four years with the company. Ms. Williams brings more than 25 years of industry experience to Bulova, serving most recently as General Manager of Fossil Canada Inc. Willams will report to Gregory Thumm, who was recently appointed as the company’s U.S. president. Thumm brings 30 years of experience in brand and licensing management as well as product development with him to Bulova. His previous posts include senior VP at Gruen Marketing Corp, Senior VP of Product Development at Geneva Watch Company, and, most recently, Senior VP of Product Development at Fossil Inc.

EMBEE EMBARKS ON DIAMOND INITIATIVE WITH ADFD

Embee Diamonds has teamed up with Calgary-based African Diamonds for Development (ADFD) to introduce the Congo Star range of mine-tomarket diamonds to Canada. Under the new agreement, Embee, with its premier diamond shapes and precision cutting abilities, agrees to license the use of one of its new diamond shapes for all the ADFD diamonds. This will be marketed under the “Congo Star” banner and complement the existing range of

Embee’s Sirius Star diamonds. “We are proud of what we have accomplished thus far and are thrilled to be part of changing the lives of millions of people in the Democratic Republic of Congo, through our numerous development programs,” says ADFD CEO David Schaffer. The ADFD Development Fund will be used to deliver humanitarian support and services that include infrastructure, housing, social assistance, health services, water treatment facilities and solar power.

HRD ANTWERP APPOINTS NEW GM

Serge Couvreur has been named the new general manager of HRD Antwerp (The Hoge Raad voor de Diamant). HRD is the Diamond High Council and Europe’s counterpart to the GIA. Couvreur, who has worked in the consumer goods and retail industry for the past 25 years, will succeed Georges Brys in the role of GM. Brys served HRD Antwerp for the past six years, during which time he reinforced the company’s international presence and helped open a diamond grading laboratory in Mumbai, a jewellery laboratory in Turkey and various other service locations worldwide. “I understand the fundamentals of HRD Antwerp and it is my ambition to further build on its core values – technology, objectivity and ethics – both on a national and international level,” says Couvreur.

GUCCI ACQUIRES SWISS DIAL-MAKER

Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry has acquired Fabbrica Quadranti, a Swiss dial-maker based in the Italian region of Switzerland, Besazio Ticino. Fabbrica Quadranti is a family-run business that has been supplying Gucci with dials for the past 15 years; much of the company is dedicated toward manufacturing for Gucci Timepieces. “By integrating Fabbrica Quadranti into Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry, we can further enhance our strength as a Swiss-made brand within the world of watchmaking,” says Michele Sofisti, Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry CEO. “We are delighted to begin a new journey with this longstanding, family-run business whose principles will reflect furthermore our own commitment to social and environmental responsibility and our total quality approach.” Sofisti says the “expertise brought by Fabbrica will lend even greater autonomy to our watchmaking manufacture, providing Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry with a powerful platform from which to advance our business objectives.”

NEW DIRECTION FOR DIAMOND INDUSTRY

While two diamond-polishing factories are slated to reopen in Yellowknife, a representative for the Range Lake district in Northwest Territories, Daryl Dolynny, has asked the government to unveil a plan for another diamond industry in that area. “This is a significant leap forward that we’re doing in this industry, and we’re doing this with no road map – at least nothing that is being communicated,” says Dolynny. In the legislative assembly in March, Dolynny made the motion for the government to explain how it plans to promote diamond manufacturing in the North. He also asked government for details on whether there will be a diamond bourse, similar to a stock exchange but dealing with diamonds, established in the NWT. This motion was passed and if the diamond polishing industry moves forward, it will significantly benefit the Yellowknife economy. The Cabinet has roughly four months to respond to the motion.

PAUL FUHRMAN JOINS JMI AS CFO

After celebrating its 100-year anniversary, JMI proudly welcomes Paul

Fuhrman as CFO to help lead it into a new era. Fuhrman brings to his new position 20 years of senior level financial management in the insurance industry. Most recently, he served as VP, Financial Reporting and Controller at SFM Mutual Insurance Company in Minnesota. “We’re undertaking some exciting initiatives to strengthen our competitive position for our next century of service to the jewellery industry and the jewellery-buying public, and we’re delighted to have Paul on board as an integral part of those plans,” says Darwin Copeman, Jewelers Mutual’s president and CEO.

DE BEERS CELEBRATES MILESTONE

De Beers Consolidated Mines turned 125 years in March and CEO Philippe Mellier took time to look back: “This anniversary provides us with a moment to reflect on all that has been built by those who came before us, and on what we can achieve as we move forward.” De Beers was founded in 1888 by Cecil Rhodes in Kimberley, South Africa. In 2007, the company began production at the Snap Lake Mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories, the first De Beers mine outside of Africa. In 2008, De Beers also opened the Victor Mine location in Ontario.

ITALIAN FASHION SHOP OPENS IN THE 905

A new, 14,000 sq. ft. retail shop filled with ‘all things Italian’ recently opened in its doors in Vaughan, ON. That’s Italy, located at 3590 Rutherford Road is filled with more than 40 Italian brands of jewellery, fashion, accessories and fragrance products. The shop is designed to give shoppers the feeling of strolling through the streets of Italy, with a slick interior, beautiful products – and even cocktails and espressos. Designer Roberto Novello, who has his jewellery line in the store, says he is happy to be a part of the store because he believes “the Canadian market is always evolving and growing. I have explored Toronto for the first time and saw a beautiful city and an abundance of new development.” Says Novello: “Although the brand Antonella Piacenti is 100 per cent made in Italy, I hope to bring to Canada what I have seen and experienced from around the world since Canada is known for its multiculturalism.”

DIAVIK ESTABLISHES SCHOLARSHIP

The Diavik diamond mine of Yellowknife has a new scholarship opportunity for the Northwest Territories and Nunavut communities, called the Diavik Scholarship Fund. This fund is the latest in a line of Diavik scholarship programs, which stems back 10 years. These programs provide several awards, and have a particular focus on Aboriginal students trying to obtain an education in the resources business. The fund received $25,000 to start and is growing. It provides an excellent chance for students living within the Northwest Territories and West Kitikmeot.

RICHARD MILLE GETS NEW MANAGING DIRECTOR

François Tauriac is slated to assume the role of managing director at iconic Swiss watchmaker Richard Mille. Tauriac previously worked as a journalist at Figaro Group, but comes from a jewellery background stemming back to his grandfather, Jacques Lenfant Richard Mille was founded in 2001 and is currently based in Les Breuleux, in the Canton of Jura, Switzerland. The brand has sponsorship deals with Formula One driver Felipe Massa and tennis player Rafael Nadal. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m / M AY 2 0 1 3

for the record

US/INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND WEEK A SUCCESS

The US/International Diamond Week at the Israel Diamond Exchange had quite a successful run this year. Varda Shine, Executive Vice President of De Beers, says it is overwhelming and exciting to move forward with such an event considering how unpredictable the current world situation appears to be. “After facing difficult times since the global financial crisis in 2008, it is fortunate to see a great turnout and a still prospering diamond industry.” Countries participating in the Israel Diamond Exchange include Canada, USA, China, India, Hong Kong and Japan. With more than $1 billion in diamonds offered, the event brings new life and opportunities to the US/International Diamond Week.

ULYSSE NARDIN WELCOMES BENEDIKT SCHLEGEL

Deluxe watchmaker Ulysse Nardin has appointed Benedikt Schlegel from Movado Group Inc. as the new Delegate of the Board. Schlegel served as Senior VP of Movado for seven years prior to joining the Ulysse Nardin family. Nardin soared to success under the eye of Rolf Schnyder, helping to make it a luxurious and global watchmaking brand. The company says Schlegel will be a promising addition to the innovation and opportunity that will continue at Ulysse Nardin.

FORMER ROLEX CEO LEAVES BEHIND GREAT LEGACY

GIA ACCEPTING SCHOLARSHIP APPLICATIONS

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is now accepting applications for scholarships for its Fall 2013 Gemology and Jewelry Manufacturing Arts programs. Recipients of the scholarships will be eligible to enroll in lab courses in the U.S., international distance education eLearning courses, and other courses available on GIA’s campuses in Hong Kong, the Middle East and Taiwan. The first round of applications has ended, but another round will be available from June 15 to October 31. The applications can be found on the Institute’s website at gia.edu. For more information, call 760-603-4131 or email scholarship@gia. edu.

Former Rolex CEO, Patrick Heiniger, has passed away in Monaco at age 62. Heiniger, who worked for the company from 1192 to 2008, helped make Rolex and exceptional brand and will be especially remembered for his successes in giving more manufacturing control to the company. Heiniger leaves behind a legacy of innovation and success in leading Rolex for 16 years, a company that was headed by the same family for 45 years until Heiniger resigned in 2008. CJ

The Perfect Complement. A diamond solitaire necklace alone shows how much you care, but adding diamond stud earrings says you’re the one. True partners don’t just work together; they complement each other, two parts of a striking whole. Such is the brilliance of a partnership with TD Retail Card Services. With the LJC Card, you gain all the benefits of your own in-store financing program – increased average transactions, higher profits and repeat business. When you work with us, we work for you, and help your business work better with:

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For a stunning solution to in-store financing, it’s all yours – with our compliments.

Together, we make you shine. Visit TDRCS.com/CanadianJeweller or call 1-866-729-7072 EXT 3008

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Ceramic, Sterling Silver And Cubic Zirconia Ceramic, Sterling Silver And Cubic Zirconia

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cjgallery

Clockwise from top left: Véronique Dubé, writer for Canadian Jeweller magazine and Jay Jackson, CEO, Stuller; Matt Stuller and Olivier Felicio, publisher at Rive Gauche Media; Stuller Bridge Conference

Stuller conference welcomes neighbours from the north It was crawdads, jazz – and jewellery, of course – as more than 80 Canadian headed to Cajun country last month for Stuller’s Bridge conference. The event, held at Stuller headquarters in Lafayette, Louisiana, was the first Canadian-focused Bridge event held by the North American jewellery manufacturer. Bridge, Stuller’s conference for retail jewellers who want to “be creative, be profitable, be connected and be tomorrow’s jeweller”, focuses on the changing retail landscape and presents ideas and opportunities to overcome common obstacles on the way to success. Attendees from all across Canada were introduced to a variety of working solutions through interactive discussions alongside Stuller experts and industry peers. Three focus areas – customization, in-store experience and market solutions – served as the centre of conversation at April’s event.

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“We are very committed to cultivating relationships with our partners in Canada,” says Katie Smith, executive director of new market development. “It is our hope that this event, along with several enhancements like flat rate shipping and extended order cut off time, can make doing business with Stuller an effortless experience.”

For more information, visit Stuller.com/Bridge.

cjgallery

Above, clockwise from top left: Gc gala at TIFF Bell Lightbox; Inside Malaparte at TIFF Bell Lightbox; Moments of Smart Luxury exhibit; Display of Gc timepieces; Frankie Solarik; Alexandria Pellegrino; Jano Badovinac, Alexandria Pellegrino and Frankie Solarik Left to right: Gc Sport Class XXL Blackout, $895; Gc Diver Chic, $595-$895; Gc 4 Executive, $795$995

Gc celebrates smart luxury in T.O. In a celebration of all things creative and innovative, luxury Swiss brand Gc recently hosted an exclusive gala in Toronto. Held at the TIFF Bell Lightbox’s Malaparte event space on March 27, the evening was marked by Gc’s launch of ‘The Smart Luxury Movement’ and a celebration of numerous innovative leaders from such places as New York, Japan, Milan and Saudi Arabia. Gc represents a fusion of timeless fashion and quality Swiss watchmaking. “Smart Luxury” is the essence of the brand – what the company calls “an intelligent way to live luxury.”

The Toronto event specifically praised the work of Alexandria Pellegrino, a renowned cake artist; Jano Badovinac, an industrial designer; and Frankie Solarik, a mixologist. Each person had a photo taken prior to the event by Brazilian photographer, Pino Gomes. The shoot aimed at combining the commonalities of the three creative geniuses: innovation, hard work and making sure that the final product is perfect. The resulting black and white photographs were displayed during the night as part of an exhibit titled ‘Moments of Smart Luxury.’

Event Photographs by George Pimentel

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PRECIOUS

LEATHER www.zeades.com 110 rue Bonaventure, Trois-RiviĂ¨res, QC G9A 2B1 Canada

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Rado HyperChrome Court Collection, Black matt high-tech ceramic

Clockwise from left: Andy Murray set to practice at the Crandon Park Tennis Center in Key Biscayne, Florida; Irina Lytchak, assistant editor at Canadian Jeweller magazine, with Pat Cash; Matthias Breschan, CEO of Rado, with Andy Murray; Pat Cash, retired professional tennis player

Rado has winning partnership with tennis In order to solidify its commitment to the tennis world, Swiss watch brand Rado recently took on the role of Official Timekeeper for the 2013 Sony Open in Miami. The Sony Open, one of the world’s most glamorous and prestigious tournaments, was held at the Crandon Park Tennis Center from March 18 to 31 and featured distinguished players like Andy Murray, David Ferrer, Serena Williams and Maria Sharapova. “We are delighted to be the Official Timekeeper of the Sony Open in Miami,” says Matthias Breschan, CEO of Rado. “It is a favourite with both players and fans and we look forward to being a part of the tournament many people know as the ‘Glam Slam’.” Rado’s new venture also includes a partnership with professional tennis player, Andy Murray. The conclusion of the Sony Open saw

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Murray achieve the number two spot in the world after a final, demanding match with David Ferrer. To mark the partnership with Rado, Murray also shot an exciting commercial for the Swiss watch brand. “Like most guys, I’ve always liked watches, so it is cool to have a partnership with a watch company as well-known as Rado,” says Murray. “I always associated Rado with tennis because I remember them sponsoring tennis tournaments when I was younger. Rado is passionate about tennis and it was certainly important to me that it was their main focus.”

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SMART Jewelry Show features world-class speakers The Windy City played host to the fifth annual SMART Jewelry Show from April 12 to 15. Held at Chicago’s Navy Pier, the show was an excellent opportunity for independent retailers to gain insight into the jewellery market with the help of world-class speakers. New York Times best-selling author, Martin Lindstrom, spoke with participants on how to use the five senses to bring in more buyers. He explained that the best marketing trick is to provide the customer with unique encounter, encouraging them to spread their experience through word of mouth. “I’m a strong believer of brands with courage, brands that dare to take chances, to provoke and just have a strong personality,” says Lindstrom. Other speakers included Beth Bernstein, senior editor of INSTORE and INDESIGN Magazine, Douglas Hucker, CEO of AGTA, and Michael O’Connor, president of Style & Substance Inc. in New York.

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Above, left to right: Cristina Sabatini, Cristina Sabatini Jewelry, Michael Hujara, Breuning Right, clockwise from top left: Alex Tabai, Martial Dubé and Mark Melancon, Stuller; Matthew Walsh, Lazare Kaplan International; Samer Mikhail, Five Star - Guy Laroche; Margaret Becker, Christopher Designs; Patrick W. Welch and John Kutch, Rembrandt Charms; Ben Yee and Kevin Eaton, Kim International

ESQ ORIGIN™ A NEW PERSPECTIVE ON MODERN DESIGN. ESQMOVADO.COM

August 11 - 12 - 13 2013

TORONTO

Metro Toronto Convention Centre

EDMONTON

Shaw Conference Centre

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Baume & Mercier, Clifton 10053, steel 41mm, automatic

A RETURN TO THE ROOTS

Baume & Mercier makes a return to its heritage with a new take on the brand’s timeless pieces, all under the leadership of Rudy Chavez, president of North America By Irina Lytchak Rudy Chavez’s role at Baume & Mercier is a marked case of art imitating life. Chavez is the North American president of one of the most luxurious Swiss watch brands in the world, but he’s come a long way since his first foray into the world of jewellery and watches. “My first full-time job was working in a jewellery store when I was 17,” says Chavez. “I was a freshman in college, the job started as part time and quickly developed into a full-time position within a couple of weeks.” Chavez’s family moved to New York from Cuba when he was seven; at 17, he found himself attending college and working, both on a fulltime basis. “I was given the opportunity to do all the odd jobs in the store – anything from vacuuming to taking out the garbage, basically all of the stuff that no one else wanted to do,” he explains. “It was a great opportunity and it went from there to helping a couple of customers with repairs, to selling, and 10 years later, I was managing the store.” Although Chavez graduated college with a degree in accounting, he set his sights on pursuing a career in the jewellery and watch industry – what he truly enjoyed. “I loved selling and helping people select gifts,” says Chavez. “I had a boss who really mentored me and gave me the opportunity to be in a situation where I learned from the bottom up – that’s something that is invaluable to me to this day.” COMPANY TRANSITION

Baume & Mercier has also undergone a transition in the past few years that has consisted of tracing the company back to its foundation. “We have seen a return to the roots of the brand in the last three years,” says Chavez. “It’s basically revisiting a timeless, classic brand that offers terrific value and styles that are very eternal, for both men and women. Our designers spend quite a bit of time on making sure that we are true to the original design but we are also very sensitive to today’s pace.” Baume & Mercier recently introduced the Clifton Collection, a classically elegant watch that truly represents the brand’s DNA.

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“All of our collections now are based on historical timepieces from different eras in our history with a modern interpretation,” explains Chavez. “It means truly timeless classics based on a true heritage of over 180 years of continuous history.” The Clifton Collection is inspired by a 1950s timepiece from the company’s archives, situated at the Baume & Mercier headquarters in Geneva, Switzerland. Up until this point, Chavez has had a very rewarding and abundant career in the watch industry; the role of the Baume & Mercier’s North America president is just one of his many titles. But his overall success can be largely attributed to the fact that he never forgot his own roots working in a jewellery store as a young man. “I got my start when I was 17 and I know what the challenges are that a jeweller goes through,” says Chavez. “I know that the jewellery industry is a capital-intense business and I know the challenges a retailer goes through because I was part of those challenges with my boss. I understand how fun it is when things are going well and then also how bad it is when the cash flow is not there.”

CORE PRINCIPLES

Although the Baume & Mercier brand is quite a distance from the jewellery stores Chavez once worked at, the core principles are still very much the same. “If you do a good job with clientele, the customers just come back and bring their friends and families in – it’s natural,” he says. “Baume & Mercier has been a part of many client celebrations because of its value and design; it’s often gifted as the first fine watch in your life. Therefore, we are part of many people’s celebrations and milestones.” We’ve all heard of those unique individuals who started out with very few resources and were able to build extremely successful careers. Chavez is one of those people and his success can be credited to the passion he’s had for the world of jewellery and watches throughout all of these years. “I truly enjoy working for a brand that has such a rich history that is also part of so many people’s lives.”

EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it. Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 168.

Colin Nash and John C. Nash

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Photographs by Brian Hillier

LONdonCallINg The last two generations of the Nash family were encouraged to follow their own paths. As luck would have it, those roads led them right back to the 95-year-old family business. By Frank De Jesús

They say it takes love to make a house a home, and it’s that sort of familial love that has kept Nash Jewellers at home on Dundas Street in London, Ontario for nearly a century. Colin Nash, who joined the business in 2000, shares ownership of the 95-year-old Nash Jewellers with his father John C. Nash and is the fourth generation to walk the floor in the storied footsteps of his great-grandfather and business founder, John A. Nash. John A. emigrated from Germany and opened up shop in 1918 with $500 he borrowed from his family. By 1920, the store had outgrown its locale and moved to its current location at 182 Dundas Street, a stately Edwardian with a beautiful golden ormolu storefront. The store’s original merchandise included filigree diamond settings, walking sticks, fancy hair ornaments and wristwatches. But it was John A.’s marketing prowess and flair for catchy advertising that set his business apart from others. As an example, one day a Ford coupe leaped the curb on Dundas Street and dashed through the store’s front window. The next day, the company’s advertising suggested, “The flash from perfect bluewhite diamonds blinded the driver.” In 1930, during the Depression, a gallery was added to the store, which housed art, antiques, furniture, silver and estate jewellery. A short while later, John A. developed a trade-in policy to allow customers to “grow their diamonds. “This policy is still in use today,” says Colin. “It works really well with earrings and pendants. Earrings start off with a pair of

studs for $500. Then two years later, you have an anniversary, you bring them back, we give you the $500 back and as long as you are putting in another $500 or more, you get the full value back. So it’s a great way for people to start small and work their way up.”

Family Matters John A’s son, John B. Nash (also know as Jack), didn’t start out in the business. He was an outstanding athlete and golf enthusiast like his father, and became a professional golfer (known for his magic putter) playing for Team Canada, and a national champion in both badminton and curling. His constant sport headlines provided advertising for the store. While Jack initially resisted the business, his father enlisted him nonetheless. In 1945, he studied gemology and joined the American Gem Society – a heritage that the Nash family continues to this day. John C. Nash was the next in line of succession, but he had a successful career as a professor and doctor before yielding to the siren’s call of the jewellery trade in 1975. “My father was always very adamant that because my grandfather was forced into the business and he resented it, that he would go and be a professor first and then come back to the business,” says Colin. Under the leadership of John C., the professional development of the team grew. He became the firm’s c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m / M AY 2 0 1 3

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John A. emigrated from Germany and opened up shop in 1918 with $500 he borrowed from his family. first AGS-certified gemologist, and established London’s first and only AGS gem lab. He also developed a new staff policy, requiring all sales personnel to take gemological training, and Nash Jewellers won London’s Retailer of the Year award in 1978. Nash Jewellers’ first sale of antique and estate jewellery was held shortly after John C. came aboard and is something the store still carries and does well with. “Our downtown store has always been known for vintage but it’s actually become very popular in the north end store because people are getting a great deal,” says Colin. John C. embraced his jeweller’s heritage and went on to acquire many accolades and appointments. He was elected President of the Canadian Jewellers Association, invited to join DeBeers Carat Club and served as Master of Ceremonies for the Toronto-based AGS Conclave. The 1990s began with John C.’s election to the AGS Board of Directors, he was invited to join DeBeers Carat Club, and he served as Chairman on the Board of Trustees for the American Gem Society in 1999.

No Pressure

One thing John C. never did was push any of his six sons into the business. “My father chose to go and be a professor first and then come back to the business,” says Colin. “He always said no matter what you do in life you always need to do something first, so don’t just come to the store. He really persuaded us against the retail environment.” After studying Geography and Political Science at University, Colin moved to Whistler and became a “ski bum” before realizing, as his father did before him, he just might like the jewellery trade. “I was sketching rock sculptures and I always had a fascination for rocks and minerals, so it became apparent to me at that point that it may be something I was interested in,” says Colin. He returned home in 2000 and found himself at the new store opening north of downtown. “I instantly fell in love with the

business, so my father did not push me away from it at that point, he let me sort of run with it,” says Colin. “They wanted to see if it was something I really liked. For the first six years I worked under a general manager. I really had nothing to do with my father at all and was treated the exact same way as any employee in the company. It was frustrating for me at the time, but today I respect how he did it.” It wasn’t long before Colin pursued schooling in his newfound vocation. Within a year he decided to join the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), did his graduate diamonds degree via home study, and then did a lab in New York. Following that, Colin moved north of Santiago, Chile, completed a six-month program on coloured stones, and finished his graduate gemologist degree. “Then I went directly to Las Vegas and finished my certified gemology degree through the American Gem Society,” he says. “And three years ago I finished my certified gemologist appraiser, which is sort of the pinnacle of this career.” Though one of only about 14 people in the country with this certified gemologist appraiser degree, Colin says he doesn’t use it. “I don’t like appraising because it takes me off the floor. I feel that I am better suited in front of people than in front of a computer.”

Moving Forward

In 2006, Colin transferred to the downtown store in order to revive it. Like many multi-generational jewellery businesses this also meant bringing in top brands and not just focusing on proprietary pieces. “That’s when I started landing the brands and feeling that if I can get the best brands in the world, that puts our store back on top again along with the family service and the history,” says Colin. “Rolex and Tag Heuer are big sellers for us in the watch world, and in the diamond world we have Lazare. The newest one is Forevermark, the new Canadian diamond by DeBeers, that to me is going to be the next big thing.”

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“Rolex and Tag Heuer are big sellers for us in the watch world, and in the diamond world we have Lazare. The newest one is Forevermark, the new Canadian diamond by DeBeers, that to me is going to be the next big thing.” – Colin Nash Another big thing is the addition of one more Nash family member to the staff – Bryan Nash, John C.’s fourth son. Bryan moved back to London from Victoria, B.C. where he was working for a small custom jewellery shop. He is currently in the final stages of achieving his Gemology Degree from GIA and has assumed a sales professional role at Nash Jewellers' north location. The future looks very bright with a Nash in each store, and Colin is optimistic for the future. He credits the longevity of the business and the support of repeat clients for Nash Jewellers’ success. “There’s nothing like a customer coming in saying: ‘Well, my grandfather bought here, my parents bought here, and I know your reputation so I wanted to come and give you a chance.’

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That’s really what we go for,” he says. “Of course we need new demographics, but we still try and keep our loyal base and work from referrals because word of mouth is what it’s all about.” CJ

AT A GLANCE Name: Nash Jewellers Number of Stores: 2 Locations: 182 Dundas Street and 1690 Richmond Street North in London, ON Products and Services: Jewellery, watches, estate jewellery, repairs, custom work and appraisals Staff: 18 Awards: London Free Press People’s Choice award 2012 & 2013; London Consumer Choice awards 2013 Website: nashjewellers.com

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Canadian Jewellery Group

CoCktail rECEption S u n d ay

JUNe 2 Nd, 2013 5:30pm - 7:30pm

MaNdalay Bay E v E n t C E n t E r BBaa r

north ConvEntion CEntEr

Please JoiN Us for cocktails aNd light aPPetizers theN hit the Jck Beach Party at MaNdalay Bay! open to cJg members, prospective members and suppliers who will be attending Jck las Vegas. Please rsVP by May 29th via e-mail: kate@canadianjewellerygroup.ca

EvEnt Co-SponSorS:

The Heart & Soul of Wedding Bands

Seamless tubing blanks, diamond cut. Available in Sterling silver, 10K, 14K, 18K, 19K, & platinum.

JCK Las Vegas Booth #S10562 www.atlanticengraving.com

CJ Expo (Edmonton) Booth #509 1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Qc.

T: 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257

Expo Prestige (Montreal) Booth #415 E: info@atlanticengraving.com

materialfocus

The Silver Lining

Silver’s prestige is definitely rising – but is it dimming the outlook for gold? By Sarah B. Hood

All eyes are on the precious metal markets these days. Everyone is speculating which way gold will go – and whether we’re at the beginning of a long-term correction in the skyrocketing market. Over the past few years, the rise of gold has invited jewellery buyers to take a new look at silver – a mixed blessing because, while some customers may now be willing to spend more for a fine silver piece, others are choosing it as a cost-saving alternative to gold. Since 2006, when the price of an ounce of gold soared past the US$500 barrier, gold has been sweeping upwards, and carrying the price of other metals along with it. But after reaching a high of US$1,889.70 in the fall of 2011, it has been wavering; since its last high of US$1,794.10 in October 2012, it has fallen steadily, and on the morning of April 16, 2013, investors awoke to a price of US$1,360.60 after the previous day’s drop of over US$100, the steepest one-day decline since the 1970s.

Silver has been basking in the borrowed glory of its showier cousin; the past few years have seen record silver prices, with an annual average of $35.12 per ounce in 2011 and a high of $48.58, more than triple the 2009 average of US$14.67. After sinking gradually from about US$34 to the US$29 range in early 2013, silver also plunged, to US$23.36, when gold had its dramatic decline on April 15. Still, both metals are high above their usual historical price points – and well outside their normal ratio to one another, says Zaman Moniruz, President and CEO of wholesale silver dealer The Bullion Mart in Toronto. “Silver still could go a lot higher compared with the gold,” he says, pointing out that the silver ratio (which represents the number of ounces of silver it would take to buy an ounce of gold) traditionally sits around 25:1. “More than that is unrealistic,” he says. “Right now, the silver ratio is about 60:1. Gold has to come down or silver has to go up. The trend in silver jewellery also is upwards; the silver price

Inside pendant on opposite page (clockwise from top left): Sterling silver genuine checkerboard green quartz ring, 30 x 12MM (Stuller, $349); Pandora rings (from top to bottom): sterling silver and pink enamel “Cherry Blossom” ring ($50), sterling silver “Eternal Clouds” ring ($30), and sterling silver and clear zirconia “Her Majesty” ring ($85); Pandora sterling silver clasp bracelet (from $75) with sterling silver charms with enamel details ($29-$60 each); Pandora sterling silver “Royal Crown” pendant featuring 48 hand-set zirconia stones, ($125) shown on a sterling silver 80cm chain necklace ($75); Sterling silver fashion earrings with 18k accents (Stuller, $198)

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LEFT: STERLiNG SiLVER 2-TONE FiLiGREE DESiGN FASHiON PENDANT, 38.84X24.00MM (STULLER, $271) TOP RiGHT: STERLiNG SiLVER GENUiNE OR SYNTHETiC STONE FAMiLY PENDANT. ALSO AVAiLABLE iN 10K, 14K & 18K GOLD (CRESCENDO JEWELLERY, STARTiNG AT $245). BOTTOM RiGHT: STERLiNG SiLVER GENUiNE OR SYNTHETiC STONE FAMiLY PENDANT. ALSO AVAiLABLE iN 10K, 14K & 18K GOLD (CRESCENDO JEWELLERY, STARTiNG AT $140)

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Sterling silver genuine or synthetic stone family pendant. Also available in 10K, 14K & 18K gold (Crescendo Jewellery, starting at $135)

SILVER ADVERTISERS IN THIS ISSUE Atlantic Engraving 800.267.7823 atlanticengraving.com Best Bargains 800.661.4871 bbjw.com Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg. Ltd. 905.737.3069 beverlyhillsjewellers.ca Charles Garnier Paris 213.892.0075 charlesgarnier.com Creation Le Grenier/Ethan Stars 888.388.4736 ethanstars.com Crescendo Jewellery 800.387.0111 crescendojewellery.com Five Star Gold 800.691.9383 info@fivestargold.ca Gold Star Independent LLC 866.368.5700 goldstarindependent.net India Hicks 212.300.8082 indiahicks.com Jewelhouse Canada 1.866.341.9496 mariocarr@shaw.ca Lega Jewellery 514.845.0066 info@legajeweller.com Lotus Jewellery 877.593.0922 jewelpop.com Mirage Creations 877.BY-MIRAGE miragecreations.com PAJ/Elle 905.752.2080 ellejewelry.com Ready Mounts 877.365.5552 readymounts.com Rembrandt Charms 800.387.5238 rembrandtcharms.ca Rio Grande/The Bell Group 888.225.6422 riogrande.com Rousseau Chain 800.661.4460 rousseauchain.com Stuller 800.877.7777 stuller.com Tisento/Premier Fashion Brands 416.301.8869 aren@nouvomode.com William Henry 503.434.9700 williamhenry.com

“It takes a lot more silver than gold for a jeweller to make money.” –Tammy Kidder has a lot of room to go up. Many analysts are saying silver could jump to about $75.”

THE NEW NORMAL

Whether it’s heading up or down over the longer term, it’s unlikely that silver will immediately return to the US$5 range, where it sat so steadily for many years, and the “new normal” price has opened up fresh possibilities. “A lot of jewellery lines are coming out with intricate designs in silver – things that maybe weren’t worth making before,” says Julie Fernandez, owner of Atelier Jewellery Boutique in Toronto, which carries out custom work and some retail sales. “All of a sudden we saw this surge in the silver market: people making pieces in silver and selling silver lines because people weren’t buying gold,” she says. In 2012, the popular Pandora line reduced its prices to stay affordable for its target market. “We continue to offer a full selection of hand-finished pieces in sterling silver and 14K gold, including the recent introduction of a beautiful collection of delicate open work charms in 14K gold that are being offered at a slightly lower price point,” says Pandora North America Vice-President of Product Merchandising, Beth Moeri.

GETTING CREATIVE

“Jewellers are shifting towards an appreciation for silver, but not the traditional lightweight pieces,” says Tammy Kidder, Executive Director of Merchandising Operations for the U.S.-based Stuller Inc. Instead, jewellers are offering “heavy, nice-looking” pieces with attention to styling and “accents of gold, giving it more of a precious-metal look,” she says. “Jewellers and designers have gotten very creative and are adding a little gold accent. I’ve even seen many styles where the ratio is 50-50 silver to gold.” To sell these pieces, she says, “it’s all in the conversation: you say ‘I have this lovely gold and silver piece’ [rather than ‘a silver piece with some gold’]; consumers are willing to pay for perceived value in the styling.”

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Mid-range jewellery design company Crescendo Jewellery Inc. offers a silver and gold collection of clean, contemporary pendants and rings that sometimes feature a pale faceted gem such as yellow quartz or blue topaz. “We just came out with a collection of family pendants available in silver and gold,” says Crescendo partner David Reuben. “The mother can pick out the birthstones of the kids, and that’s been doing incredibly well.” Fernandez says Elle Jewelry, an extension of the popular fashion magazine brand, is seeing success with its intricately designed new silver line, which features Swarovski crystals, semiprecious stones and “hints of gold.” But among her clientele, “as long as it’s silver and under $150, people buy anything. Over $150, people start to hum and haw, because times are tough.”

WHAT’S ON TAP

“The trends we will see with designs in silver reflect many of the trends and themes seen on the runways for summer and fall 2013,” says Moeri. These include “fun and whimsical designs, heavy emphasis on nautical stripes and patterns, and intricate feminine motifs, such as flowers and lace. The use of colour, particularly vibrant blues and emerald greens, will also be prominent both in our summer and fall collections and in retail fashion.” Kidder is predicting “a comeback of very appealing bright colours” and “some gemstones you wouldn’t have seen three to five years ago. I think you’ll see more of it in the short term.” Until silver and gold prices return to a more normal ratio, silver will continue to cut into some of the gold jewellery market; for instance, Moniruz reports that some Hindu families are using silver instead of gold to complete their obligatory wedding gifts. However, while some customers are economizing with silver instead of gold purchases, says Reuben, “it would take a big shift for consumers to want a silver engagement ring!” And silver still presents plenty of opportunities. “It takes a lot more silver than gold for a jeweller to make money,” says Kidder. “That’s the only downside.” CJ

cj enfrançais

Les Nouvelles

Par Véronique Dubé

Les bijoux de Brooke Gregson : un contraste à la bijouterie traditionnelle

L’approche organique et personnelle de la créatrice se fait sentir dans ses bijoux, empreints d’une agilité à mettre en valeur les matières presque brutes. Ses collections Astrology, Planetary et la plus récente Silk révèlent une fascination qui habite Brooke Gregson pour le mélange des matières. Chaque bijou est façonné à la main, ce qui le rend unique, et ses pièces en soie sont toutes montées avec de l’or, des diamants et des pierres précieuses. Disponibles en ligne, les créations sauront plaire aux amoureux des styles naturel et distingué. Pour plus d’informations, visitez brookegregson.com.

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cj enfrançais

Le collier de dos séduit les vedettes d’Hollywood

Si la soirée des Golden Globes de janvier dernier avait été marquée par la vibrance des couleurs, celle des Oscars de février dernier a surtout retenu l’attention pour la somptuosité des diamants qui ornaient les bijoux. Une nouvelle tendance a aussi attiré l’attention : le collier de dos. On les a vus portés par Anne Hathaway – un collier corsage Blue Book en platine et diamants de Tiffany & Co – et Jennifer Lawrence – un long collier en or blanc serti de diamants de Chopard. Toutes deux sont ressorties de cette soirée avec un Oscar, prouvant ainsi que leur talent et leur look étaient gagnants.

< Après les téléphones

intelligents, les montres intelligentes

Une place spéciale accordée aux Canadiens lors de l’événement Bridge d’avril dernier

Du 7 au 9 avril derniers avait lieu l’événement Bridge organisé par le fabricant de bijoux Stuller à Lafayette, en Louisiane. Pour une première fois, cette conférence a été spécialement orchestrée à l’intention des bijoutiers canadiens. La compagnie a présenté à ses 80 invités des méthodes de travail afin d’accroître leur créativité, leurs profits et leur interactivité pour devenir le bijoutier de demain. Stuller a mis l’emphase sur le changement qui s’opère actuellement dans le commerce du détail et a proposé des idées nouvelles afin de contrecarrer les obstacles qui parfois entravent le travail des bijoutiers et de leur personnel. Les experts Stuller ont axé leurs conférences sur la personnalisation du service, l’expérience en magasin et l’expertise des produits et du service. Le magazine Canadian Jeweller était présent lors de cet événement Bridge.

L’or atteint son plus bas niveau depuis les deux dernières années

Le 15 avril dernier, l’or est passé sous le seuil des 1400$ en atteignant 1355,79$, son plus bas niveau depuis le 14 février 2011. Selon David White, courtier chez Spreadex, «les investisseurs se détournent clairement de l’or, se servant du cours pour justifier une sortie de leurs positions et récupérer leurs capitaux». Le ralentissement de la croissance en Chine serait l’une des principales causes, suivies de la croissance terne aux États-Unis, des faibles pressions inflationnistes et de la crainte de voir des pays fortement endettés vendre leur or pour payer leurs créances. L’argent n’a pas tardé à suivre l’or et est tombé le même jour à 23,02$ l’once, son plus bas niveau depuis octobre 2010.

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Il n’y a pas si longtemps, les montres ne servaient qu’à donner l’heure. En attendant la future iWatch sur laquelle le géant américain Apple travaillerait présentement, d’autres importantes compagnies telles Sony ou de petits acteurs comme Pebble et I’m Watch se sont emparé du terrain. Lors du Congrès mondial de la téléphonie mobile à Barcelone, Massimiliano Bertolini, directeur général de la société italienne I’m, présentait son produit phare, la montre multifonction I’m Watch. Alors que la smartwatch de Sony se vend à partir de 129 € en France et que la Pebble est commercialisée à partir de 150$ USD, I’m Watch vise une clientèle haut de gamme. Elle propose son petit bijou technologique à 300 € pour le modèle de base, et jusqu’à 16 000 € pour la version de luxe en or incrustée de diamants.

Les couleurs de l’automne 2013

L’émeraude est la couleur de l’année. Partout on en parle et partout on la voit. Mais Pantone a aussi dévoilé une palette tout spécialement désignée pour l’automne qui saura vous guider pour vos achats et vous inspirer pour vos vitrines: • Mykonos Blue: pensez aux saphirs et aux tanzanites • Linden Green: osez les citrines et les péridots • Acai : envoutez avec les pierres au mauve profond, telles les améthystes • Samba : rythmez vos comptoirs avec des rubis et des grenats vibrants • Koi : n’oubliez pas les grenats spessartites et les topazes aux orangés flamboyants • Deep Lichen Green : prolongez les belles journées d’été avec des diamants verts et des tourmalines • Vivacious : vivifiez vos vitrines avec des spinelles roses ou des tourmalines rubellites • Turbulence : optez pour la polyvalence des pierres de lune • Carafe : charmez grâce aux diamants cognac ou aux quartz enfumés

Osez les nouveaux métaux

Avec la flambée de son prix, l’or a connu un certain déclin au cours des

dernières années. Bien qu’il soit toujours populaire, la situation économique et la demande des consommateurs ont poussé certains fabricants à se tourner vers d’autres métaux, par exemple le titane et l’acier inoxydable, déjà bien connus des bijoutiers et du grand public. Aujourd’hui, Stuller propose d’autres métaux contemporains aux propriétés fort intéressantes. D’abord, le Dura Tungsten qui, allié avec du titane, résiste aux égratignures, conserve son allure polie et se décline en gris, blanc ou noir. Ensuite, le Dura Cobalt, un métal durable fabriqué à partir d’un matériau certifié biologique utilisé dans le remplacement des hanches. Finalement, le Ceramic Couture, un matériau aérospatial hi-tec ultra léger, résistant à la chaleur et qui demeure lisse. Il est disponible en rose, blanc et noir.

Surveillez les tendances des consommateurs

Pour profiter des meilleures occasions d’affaires, les commerçants doivent comprendre les besoins changeants des consommateurs ainsi que leurs désirs et leurs attentes, et y répondre le mieux possible. Selon Julie Lemonde, consultante en marketing, deux grandes thématiques sont à l’avant-garde et ont été révélées par Trendwatching: «la première est que le Web a profondément transformé la relation marqueconsommateur. La deuxième est que les marchés émergents occuperont un rôle crucial, notamment en tant que lieux d’incubation et d’innovation.» La démocratisation du numérique a entraîné l’avènement du Presumer – un consommateur qui désire s’engager de plus en plus avec les marques en amont – et du Custowner – qui en plus souhaite participer à la croissance des marques en tant qu’actionnaire. De plus, la tendance du Data Mining a encouragé les consommateurs à transmettre aux différentes marques leurs données personnelles afin qu’elles les utilisent pour mieux les servir.

Baisse du prix de l’or : les bijoutiers se réjouissent

Alors que les investisseurs s’inquiètent de la chute dramatique du prix de l’or, les bijoutiers y retrouvent un certain réconfort. La raison est fort simple : plus de bijoux pourraient être accessibles aux consommateurs de la classe moyenne. La hausse du prix de l’or au cours des dernières années a, selon certains commerçants, ruiné l’industrie de la bijouterie. Plus personne ne vend de bracelets pour hommes ou des chaines imposantes. Les gens vendent leurs bijoux au lieu d’en acheter. Si l’or se maintient à ce niveau pour quelque temps, on pourrait voir une hausse des ventes de bijoux en or dans les mois à venir.

^ Swarovski s’inspire des couleurs du Sud

La collection Paradis tropical de Swarovski est inspirée par le Carnaval de Rio, la forêt amazonienne, les temples mexicains des Aztèques et des Incas ainsi que des plages du Mexique et de Miami. La directrice de création Nathalie Colin explique : « J’ai été fortement influencée par mes voyages au Brésil et au Mexique, où j’ai découvert une intense énergie créative et une joie de vivre ». Le fuchsia, le turquoise aquatique et une variété de nuances de vert tonifient ces nouveaux bijoux, rappelant la mer, les luxuriantes forêts tropicales et la sensualité des orchidées présentes en Amérique latine. S’inspirant des fleurs tropicales, ce collier séduisant est le must de la saison ! Il présente une accumulation sensationnelle de cristaux, dont un cristal Antique Green dans une taille exclusive. Une association de chaines plaquées au palladium crée un look entrelacé tendance.

Ne manquez pas le Salon JCK de Las Vegas

Du 31 mai au 3 juin prochain se tiendra le Salon JCK de Las Vegas au Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino. Cet événement de première importance en Amérique du Nord s’adresse à tous les professionnels du c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m / M AY 2 0 1 3

€

monde de la bijouterie. Cette année, approfondissez vos connaissances sur la gestion de réseaux aux côtés des plus grands fabricants de bijoux, distributeurs de pierres et de pièces d’horlogerie. Profitez aussi de séances d’éducation de première classe et bien structurées et vivez une expérience d’achat inoubliable. En plus des 65 séminaires qui vous sont offerts, des conférences sur les médias sociaux, la responsabilité et le respect en matière de gestion et l’établissement des relations seront données par des intervenants de haut niveau.

Le «Princie» : le bijou le plus cher vendu par Christie’s

Lors de l’encan de la maison Christies du 16 avril dernier, le «Princie», un diamant rose de coupe coussin totalisant 34,65 carats, a été vendu pour 39,3 millions de dollars. Il surpasse ainsi l’ancien record de 24,3 millions de dollars détenu par le «Wittelsbach» enregistré en décembre 2008. Mis à l’encan pour la première fois en 1960, il avait été acquis par Van Cleef & Arpels pour la somme de 46 000 €. Une caractéristique particulière du diamant «Princie» est sa fluorescence orange lorsqu’il est exposé à une radiation ultraviolette. L’acheteur du diamant a voulu garder l’anonymat.

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Le directeur général de Pandora démissionne€

Björn Gulden avait joint le Groupe Pandora en décembre 2011 afin de stopper la baisse des ventes et des profits. Il sera remplacé par Allan Leighton, l’actuel président de la compagnie. Anciennement chez Asda, Leighton est devenu président de Pandora en août 2010. Marcello Bottoli, l’actuel vice-président, prendra sa place. Puma, le groupe allemand d’articles de sport, a annoncé le 18 avril dernier la nomination de M. Gulden au poste de directeur général. Björn Gulden dispose d’une solide expérience internationale après avoir occupé pendant près de 20 ans plusieurs postes de direction dans les secteurs de la chaussure et des articles de sport.€

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Congrès annuel du groupe Gemme

Comme chaque année, Gemme a tenu son congrès annuel du 20 au 22 avril derniers. Les membres des magasins du groupe se sont réunis à l’Estérel, dans les Laurentides, pour l’événement. 47 exposants y ont participé afin de présenter leurs produits aux bijoutiers sur place. Parmi ceux-ci, une quinzaine de fournisseurs ont financièrement contribué au banquet. Notons d’ailleurs l’arrivée de nouveaux membres au sein du groupe Gemme: Yann Lefrançois et Sonia Silva de Manufacture de Bijoux L’Éternel à Repentigny. Tous membres de la Corporation des bijoutiers du Québec, Gemme représente le plus important regroupement de bijoutiers professionnels de la province.

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^ Tendance matelot chic 100% québécoise La tendance marine est revenue en force! Les designers s’en sont inspiré pour leurs collections printemps/été 2013, où les ancres, les cordes de soie, le marine et le rouge se côtoient. Plus près de chez nous, une jeune créatrice, émilie Boucher, aussi connue sous le nom de Mélusine, nous charme avec ses nouvelles créations. Le mélange des styles et des textures, les couleurs du printemps qui s’éveille, le tout rehaussé de ta touche si personnelle et féminine à souhait. Ce bracelet n’est d’ailleurs pas sans rappeler le style matelot, avec ses rayures blanches et marines et qui, orné de ses breloques, propose un look éclectique qui saura plaire à tout coup. Pour plus d’informations, visitez mkpboutique.com. CJ

Thousands of charms in gold and silver.

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Influences 2014 Le cahier de tendances du Comité Francéclat couvre l’Horlogerie, la Bijouterie, la Joaillerie et les Arts de la table. Intitulé « Influences 2014 », ce cahier s’articule autour de quatre grandes influences déclinées en sous-thèmes et consacre une place importante à la présentation des grandes évolutions susceptibles de déterminer les choix des consommateurs. Le cahier de tendances du Comité Francéclat comprend deux parties : • des influences générales qui ressortent de l’étude réalisée par le Cabinet international de prévisions de tendances Nelly Rodi pour le compte du Comité Francéclat et qui sont susceptibles de déterminer les choix des consommateurs. Elles sont interprétées pour l’horlogerie, la bijouterie, la joaillerie et les arts de la table par une équipe de dix stylistes et designers : A3, BBDC, Easign, Itise, Ixo, Fabienne Jouvin, Florence Lehmann, Mathilde Meneau, François Quentin, Nathalie Sokierka. • un complément d’informations saisonnier «Tendances Mode» élaboré en collaboration avec Elizabeth Leriche. Il se présente sous la forme de planches éditées deux fois par an. Les valeurs de novations stimulent les imaginaires et accélèrent la grande mutation du IIIème millénaire. Après le choc frontal des crises en tous genres, des énergies créatives et positives remettent en cause les anciens modèles. L’heure est à l’invention d’un nouveau système, qui se nourrit des évolutions technologiques, sociétales, écologiques ou économiques de ces dernières décennies. La perception de l’accélération du temps, opposée à notre besoin de pauses et de

Les Bioniriques

moments de bien-être, nous oblige à jouer avec le curseur de ralentissement ou d’accélération des moments de vie. Quatre familles illustrent ce passage d’une réalité ralentie à une réalité augmentée : • Les Couplices : l’harmonie comme idéal, • Les Bioniriques : la confiance en la nature et la science, • Les Energizers : la pulsion de vie contre l’inertie, • Les Artistocrates : la conquête de nouveaux territoires esthétiques.

Les Couplices

Des consommateurs associés à la génération Y, celle des 18-30 ans, qui partage davantage un état d’esprit plus qu’elle n’appartient à une tranche d’âge. Contrairement à la génération précédente, la GX, la GY est résolument optimiste (on l’appelle aussi la génération). Créatifs, entreprenants et solidaires, les Couplices dessinent un nouveau visage de la société, plus collectif et moins autoritaire. Ils favorisent les connexions associatives et cultivent «l’être ensemble» : ils voient un avenir où l’on est plus fort à deux ou à plusieurs que tout seul. Leur spontanéité et leur gaiteé se traduisent dans les solutions créatives qu’ils proposent pour des produits harmonieux, vitaminés et graphiques mixant différents univers.

Des consommateurs entre 30 et 50 ans, qui ont dépassé le goût pour la consommation frénétique et de masse. Ils lui préfèrent des valeurs de bien-être, de douceur; la qualité prend le pas dessus sur la quantité, l’émotion sur la possession. Toujours en quête de nouvelles perceptions, ces techno-rêveurs sont réceptifs aux nouvelles technologies et au progrès, pourvu qu’ils apportent du sens. Les Bioniriques évoluent dans un univers de rêves, calme et voluptueux, qui laisse place aux formes souples, arrondies comme aux teintes claires et lumineuses. Les créations évoquent souvent l’immatérialité et l’évanescence du vivant.

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Les Aristocrates

Activistes et rebelles, les Artistocrates sont ultras créatifs. Ils empruntent des voies créatives excentriques et survoltées. Aux maux du siècle ils opposent l’humour d’un mode de vie baroque et luxueux, préférant la générosité et l’opulence au minimalisme. Faisant preuve d’une imagination débridée, ils mélangent les codes et les influences, dans une atmosphère dissonante et métissée. Généreux, instinctifs et fantasques, ces nouveaux dandys vivent dans un univers fantasmagorique où la nature est érigée comme une valeur sacrée et se décline sous de multiples formes. L’objectif est de se différencier, quitte à explorer les limites de l’étrange et à braver la dictature du bon goût. Leurs créations évoquent des créatures hybrides, extravagantes ou insolites.

Tendances mode

Ces planches saisonnières apportent un complément d’informations, faisant ressortir les points forts de chaque thème sous un angle «mode», notamment à travers la mise en valeur des couleurs et des matières caractéristiques de la saison.

Les Energizers

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En quête d’adrénaline et de sensations fortes, les Energizers revendiquent un univers radical au graphisme impactant. Leur génération est née ou a grandi dans l’énergie des années 80 avec en arrière-plan la nostalgie fantasmée d’un âge d’or qu’elle n’a pas vécu. Leur créativité électrise le système, le secoue, exprime leur vitalité et leur jeunesse, n’hésitant pas à choquer, provoquer, dans une pulsion de vie et de liberté. Les formes d’étoiles, d’étincelles et de rayons imposent une énergie intense et explosive. Graphismes pop inspirés des mangas et de la BD envahissent les créations. Noir, blanc et rouge sont les couleurs qui créent l’atmosphère dans laquelle évoluent ces nouveaux gladiateurs urbains.

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Du rêve à la réalité

L’événement Bridge de Stuller : une vision qui va bien au-delà du bijou Par Véronique Dubé

Matt Stuller a fondé la compagnie Stuller en 1970, à l’âge de 19 ans, dans un petit coin du bureau de son père. Ce dernier était orthodontiste. Il était loin de se douter que 40 ans plus tard, la compagnie serait l'un des plus grands fabricants de bijoux aux États-Unis et un leader national et international de l’industrie dans le secteur de la vente en gros. À ses débuts, Matt Stuller éprouvait un grand mécontentement; selon lui, les délais de livraison dans le domaine de la bijouterie étaient beaucoup trop longs. L’idée lui est donc venue de développer une philosophie d’entreprise et un programme afin de fournir à ses clients des services et produits de qualité… et de les livrer le jour suivant ! Un défi de taille pour l’époque, alors que les délais de livraison pouvaient aller jusqu'à 21 jours ouvrables. Cependant, il était primordial d’y arriver, et ce, pour plusieurs raisons. Dans son discours de bienvenue prononcé lors de l’ouverture de l’événement Bridge, il a rappelé combien il est important de «s’adapter aux changements de l’industrie, mais aussi de comprendre les besoins de la clientèle et trouver les moyens de l’attirer en magasin. Le magasin, l’éclairage, la première impression et le processus d’achat, il faut toujours tout repenser. Changer, changer et changer. Et garder notre esprit ouvert ». D’abord, une évidence lui est apparue : les bijouteries devaient diminuer leur stock. Toutefois, pour continuer de répondre à la demande des clients, les bijoux qu’ils commandaient devaient leur parvenir plus rapidement. Aujourd’hui, Stuller livre plus de 200 000 articles à 40 000 clients en respectant sa promesse de livraison le lendemain. Derrière ce travail colossal se cachent un rêve, une passion et une équipe de talent qui, pendant deux jours, a partagé son savoir-faire aux bijoutiers présents au siège social de Stuller à Lafayette, en Louisiane. Des spécialistes ont animé trois conférences auxquelles les participants ont activement pris part. L’expérience

Votre bijouterie doit attirer le client. Dites-vous une chose : quand le client entre dans votre magasin, il vit déjà un certain «mécontentement». Il vient vers vous parce qu’il n’a pas encore ce qu’il veut. Il lui manque quelque chose. Vous et votre personnel devez répondre à ses attentes. Lors de cette conférence, on vous enseigne sept façons d’y parvenir, sept déclencheurs qui inciteront le consommateur à entrer dans votre bijouterie, mais surtout, à y revenir : l’alarme, la passion, le prestige, la confiance, le pouvoir, le mystère et la rébellion.

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Bien entendu, vous ne pouvez mettre en pratique ces sept façons de faire tout en même temps. Il suffit d’en choisir une ou deux, mais de l’exploiter à son maximum et d’être constant. De plus, certains bijoutiers sont encore frileux à l’idée d’utiliser les médias sociaux pour leur entreprise. Sachez cependant que bien dosés, ils représentent un moyen peu coûteux de fidéliser votre clientèle et de capter l’attention de vos futurs clients.

Solutions de marché

Quoi ? Comment ? Pourquoi ? La plupart des gens savent ce qu’ils font. Ils sont aussi au courant de «comment» ils le font. Mais est-ce que tous en connaissent la raison ? En tant que propriétaire ou gérant d’une bijouterie, l’objectif commun est de faire des affaires avec des gens qui croient en ce que vous croyez. Votre direction doit être claire ; articulez votre «pourquoi» simplement, mais efficacement. Lors de cette séance, on vous dit comment déterminer votre vision et votre mission, et comment élaborer avec vos employés des stratégies et des buts pour y parvenir. Et n’oubliez pas : les gens n’achètent pas ce que vous faites, ils achètent la raison pour laquelle vous le faites. C’est pourquoi vous devez être à l’affût des changements, des nouvelles tendances et toujours voir les défis comme de nouvelles opportunités.

3C : Choose/Change/Create

Lors de cette conférence, on vous donne un aperçu de la plateforme CounterSketch Studio, mise au point pour la personnalisation des bijoux. D’emblée, Matt Stuller a tenu à informer les participants «que le système a été conçu pour que l’aide du bijoutier soit indispensable. On veut créer une expérience avec le client. On veut que le client soit impliqué dans le processus. En tant que bijoutier indépendant, on veut donner au client quelque chose qu’il aime, qu’il sera fier de porter et qui sera transmis de génération en génération.» Et il a terminé son introduction sur une note humoristique en précisant que «quiconque peut cliquer sur une souris peut se servir de CounterSketch Studio». Lors de son allocution finale, Matt Stuller a mis l’emphase sur les changements qui s’opèrent en ce moment dans le marché mondial : la société mobile, l’arrivée des acheteurs des générations X et Y, les façons nouvelles de faire des affaires par les réseaux sociaux et il a insisté à nouveau sur les façons de s’y adapter. Et surtout, comment créer une expérience d’achat inoubliable pour vos clients.

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De haut en bas: Matt Stuller, fondateur et président, et Véronique Dubé, rédactrice pour Canadian Jeweller magazine; Conférence chez Stuller; À l’avant: Martial Dubé spécialiste en développement commercial chez Stuller. À l’arrière: Mark Melancon, directeur de produits - métaux contemporains - chez Stuller

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Something Old, Something New

Charles Garnier Paris merges old-world craftsmanship and design and with modern-day ideas and technology. By Janine Druery It was more than a century ago that Charles Garnier

enchanted buyers with his masterful gold jewellery designs. In 1901 he founded his namesake company – Charles Garnier Paris – creating pieces that were celebrated for their craftsmanship, quality and elegance. Fast forward to 2013, and the same allegiance to design and quality Garnier was known for is still in full force – albeit in the bustling city of Los Angeles, California. “We are still very product-driven,” says Guy Benhamou, the Parisianborn owner of Charles Garnier. The former CEO of OroAmerica, bought Charles Garnier in 2002 and moved everything to Los Angeles, where he could best focus on creating a “brand for the North American market.” In addition to a change in location and market-focus, there have been other significant transformations. One of the most significant is that Charles Garnier now focuses on high-quality silver jewellery instead of gold. “We used to be 18-karat gold, but because of the price of gold we switched to silver,” says Benhamou, who has been in the business for 35 years. “The decision was made to be at a price point of under $500 – that’s what we choose to be.”

comfortable to wear – particularly earrings. But besides the modern technical achievements, Charles Garnier designers maintain the French tradition of artisan jewellery: each piece is finished by hand. Their whole process is very “old world meets new,” and it’s a process that differentiates Charles Garnier, says Benhamou. Once the products are designed and manufactured they are shipped worldwide to more than 60 countries. The company has a distributor in Paris, another in Australia, and distributes directly to jewellers across North America. In Canada, the products can be found at fine jewellers such as Calgary Jewellery, Knar Jewellery and Nash Jewellers in Ontario, and Cartwright Jewellers Ltd. in B.C. “We are vertically integrated,” says Benhamou. “We make our own designs. We manufacture ourselves. We have our own finish.” And the company has a “Quick Ship” program, which allows a segment of its collection to be delivered within three working days to the retailer. “It’s the whole thing [that sets us apart] – the design, the quality, the delivering, and the saleability of the merchandise,” Benhamou says.

Proprietary Finish

Charles Garnier’s collections range from elegant, eternal classics to modern geometrics. And the company creates all manner of pieces, from classic bangles to romantic rings to bold pendants and is very strong in the earring arena – everything from small water drops to large hoops. “We see ourselves as kind of an everyday brand,” says Benhamou. “Our customers like to buy our jewellery because they can wear it every day, not like one-of-a-kind pieces that they would save for Christmas or Mother’s Day.” In addition, the company has a proprietary finish called Constellation. “Constellation is a finish that we developed a couple of years ago,” says Benhamou. “It gives the effects of tiny diamonds [ping pong diamond cut] in the product, so it’s very flattering.” This, along with three colours – white, gold and pink – gives Charles Garnier’s products a very standalone look. “Our merchandise doesn’t look like anybody else’s merchandise,” says Benhamou.

Old World Meets New

The products are conceived of (many by Benhamou himself) and designed in Los Angeles, where the company employs approximately 20 people. Then they are manufactured in the company’s own state-of the art, IS0-9002 plant in Peru, which employees 100 people. Charles Garnier himself was known for working to improve contemporary jewellery basics with the latest technical innovation. And that forward-thinking mindset continues. The company embraces technology and is known for implementing the electroforming technique, which allows them to create voluminous pieces that are very lightweight and

On opposite page: 01, 02 and 03: Designs from Charles Garnier’s new Rope collection. 04, 05 and 06: Designs from the company's new Filigree collection

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“Canada used to be more conservative, but not anymore.” – Guy Benhamou

Moving Forward

An illustrious past. And a successful present. So what’s on tap for Charles Garnier in the future? For starters, the company will debut a new collection at the upcoming JCK show in Las Vegas. Benhamou says the company will introduce about 150 new styles, each available in three colours. “It’s one major collection and then 10 sub-collections,” he says. “It will be a big introduction of products. We have been working on it for the last six months.” In addition, Benhamou has growth and expansion on the agenda. And while Charles Garnier has been sold in Canada for over 20 years, Benhamou wants to extend the company's reach here and continue to strongly focus on the buying tastes of Canadian consumers. “In Canada, customers lean more strongly on the pure silver (white) coloured jewellery, however in the last year they have been moving toward the gold colouring, because they are not buying as much real gold,” says Benhamou. He says these days, the company's customers in Canada are pretty similar to their counterparts in the U.S. and Europe – they are all buying the same things. Says Benhamou: “Canada used to be more conservative, but not anymore.”

c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m / 足M 足足 AY 2 0 1 3

designerprofile

Everyday Sexy

Bcouture’s jewellery is vibrant, sophisticated and stylish – just like the women who wear it. By Janine Druery

We’ve all heard the old adage “diamonds are a girl’s best friend,” but Ani Hovanessian and Salpi Sayadian beg to differ. The duo behind Toronto-based Bcouture think semi-precious gemstones and luxurious 14k gold make splendid pals – and their customers concur. “Our jewellery is for fun-loving, confident, sophisticated women,” says Hovanessian, the company’s vice-president. “It’s for women who are not afraid to express themselves.” The Bcouture line is a hand-made jewellery collection designed and manufactured in Canada. The jewellery launched at the JCK show in Las Vegas in 2012 and has since been receiving praise for its luxurious, yet laid-back vibe. “The collection was designed to complement any outfit or satisfy any mood. From office to cocktail or casual to elegant, the transformation of every piece is effortless,” says Hovanessian, who calls the brand “everyday sexy.” The line is made up of 14k gold necklaces, bracelets, earrings with a wide variety of gemstones. Customers can choose from pieces that run the spectrum of coloured stones or tailor a piece for their own “colour story.” According to Sayadian, Bcouture’s creative director, one of the best features of the brand is that “every piece is customizable. You are not limited to only what you see.” COMPANY BUZZ Bcouture was conceived by the two women (best friends since age nine) while Hovanessian was working at her father’s gold wholesaling business – Shiny Jewellers of Toronto. They tested the jewellery for five years at retail via Shiny, and when it started generating big demand, they branched out to create Bcouture. While the “couture” part of the moniker is apparent, Hovanessian says the “B” in Bcouture’s name and logo represents a bee – of the buzzing variety. “The honey bee is one of the most productive and nurturing of all living things,” she says. “Yet crossed in the wrong way or while feeling threatened to protect its home, the honey bee can have a vicious sting. As females, we found great symbolism in the honey bee. Women are, by nature, nurturing and will go to great lengths to protect their families.” Flying insects aside, Hovanessian and Sayadian find inspiration in many of life’s pleasures – fashion shows, nature’s colours, exotic locales – and, of course, their families. Hovanessian says her 14-month-old daughter, Lea, is a big inspiration. As is her father. “My biggest inspiration has been the confidence and belief that my father put in me,” she says. He gave me carte blanche – let me fly free.”

WHOLLY CANADIAN Bcouture is created exclusively in Canada; of this, both women are particularly proud. “We stand behind the quality. We do our own repairs and we service the line fully,” says Hovanessian. She notes that in an era where everything has turned to mass production and is sourced outside of North America, they have made it a priority to keep a hands-on approach.

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Greg Buzbuzian of Guelph-based Knar Jewellery is one of the retailers carrying the line. He is enthusiastic about the company’s approach, the jewellery’s affordability (prices start at $145) and Bcouture’s image. “We are impressed with the marketing material and feel it is building the image in a very positive way,” says Buzbuzian. “It is impressive to see a new brand provide supportive marketing material in a truly professional and creative manner.” He says that there has been an encouraging customer response: “Our clients are intrigued by this line and they have taken note that it is suitable for all ages – young girls, teenagers, young professionals, all women alike.”

GOLDEN ROOTS Things are getting even more exciting as Bcouture prepares for a jewellery reveal at the 2013 JCK show. In a departure from the exclusively gold line, they will unveil the “Everyday Keepsake,” a silver necklace people can customize with semi-precious stones (for example, the birthstones of their children). “It is contemporary and cute, and will fit into any showcase,” says Hovanessian. But the foray into silver for this one piece doesn’t mean the company is abandoning its golden past, which Hovanessian says differentiates them in the marketplace. “Everything has shifted to silver – and at a high price point,” she says. “But even when the price of gold went way up, we never neglected our roots as a gold wholesaler. We stuck to our guns and we stuck to our gold.” This has proved to be a successful strategy with their customers who are making the chic, savvy line a success. “Beauty is a state of mind and all women have it,” says Hovanessian. “We hope our jewellery is part of the mindset which reflects it.”

Pink Amethyst and Rose Quartz Cushion Cut Earrings

Pink Amethyst and Rose Quartz Cushion Cut Bracelet

Double row pear shape drop blue topaz Earrings

Ani Hovanessian of Bcouture Photographed by Robin Wong

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mentors

Q+A Passing the Torch

Matt Stuller was fortunate to have a mentor-like figure teach him the ins and outs of the jewellery industry early in his career. Today, as the founder and chairman of Stuller Inc., he runs one of the leading jewellery manufacturing and distributing companies in the U.S. Stuller took the time to tell Canadian Jeweller magazine about his journey to the top… By Irina Lytchak Canadian Jeweller: How did you get into the jewellery industry? Matt Stuller: As a young man, I knew that I loved business. I was kind of an entrepreneur at heart. I had no idea what I wanted to do, and going into high school I was thinking about my career. I was really blessed early on because I actually got a summer job working for a local retail jeweller – that job really entailed more of the basic custodian or janitorial type of work. CJ: Did you meet anyone who gave you an insider’s look into the world of jewellery? MS: I was a young man of 16 when the seed was planted in me that jewellery was a wonderful thing to make and to repair. I very quickly became dear friends with the craftsman at the back of the store, a bench jeweller, and he taught me the trade of repairing jewellery. God did not give me a lot of patience but what he did give me was a tremendous mechanical ability. I knew after a few months of working with my hands and working with jewellery, that it was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life. CJ: What experiences did you have at the beginning of your career that prepared you for the kind of work you do today? MS: My experience was actually falling in love with the jewellery business. I had a great passion for the business itself, selling beautiful product, understanding how it worked, how to create something, set a stone, size it, weld it. All of those core functionalities of bench work gave me great excitement then and, still to this day, it excites me when I look at all of the manufacturing attributes of making fine jewellery. CJ: What one quality do you possess that you credit for helping you get into the business? MS: I was tenacious. That’s probably been my best virtue. Wanting

to start a jewellery wholesale and manufacturing company the week I came out of high school is quite bold. My parents wanted me to get a college education. But, at that time, I really didn’t want to wait four years to get into the business. CJ: What is your outlook on mentorship today? MS: Mentoring is so important because it gives you an opportunity to listen, to talk and to set expectations. I find that with good mentoring, you develop this great appreciation for that person and it helps you stay on course. It’s certainly a critical part of the formulation of starting a business when you’re young. CJ: What does it take for a young person to find success in today’s jewellery industry? MS: I think the most important thing is that they have a passion for what they are doing and they have a way to be able to make a living in fulfilling their passion. I’m a strong believer that our industry is only as good as its newcomers. We need youth in our business because they bring a very different edge to our jewellery industry. I love to see young people getting into the business that don’t have a family business to fall back on; those are the real talents. CJ: What keeps you motivated and passionate after so many years in the business? MS: It’s that little seed that was planted in me when I was a 16-yearold that has continued to grow and blossom. I think that what I enjoy most today are two things – one is watching the staff here at Stuller develop and grow within the organization. The other is how dear jewellers are. They are very caring people and I think that’s why they get into the jewellery business in the first place – they enjoy celebrating other people’s events and excitements. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m / M AY 2 0 1 3

Jack and Raffi’s father Gary Libarian (standing) and grandfather, Hagop Libarian (1980).

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newgeneration

Great Expectations

“Growing up” in the family businesses is one thing. Deciding to carry the legacy forward is quite another. Three industry insiders share their experiences... By Sarah O’Connor

Like Father, Like Son From a very young age, brothers Jack and Raffi Libarian were interested in their father’s business. “We looked forward to going to this intriguing, far-off place called ‘downtown’ where there were cool things to play with,” recalls Jack. Their father Garry, who had previously owned a jewellery manufacturing company with their uncle, decided in the late 1980s to launch his own venture. “Our father started taking us along to work with him during the summers, almost every day at the age of seven,” says Jack. “We mostly watched [our father] and did errands. As we got a bit older we started to carry out easy tasks like cleaning jewellery or filling rings.” From the time he was 11 years old, Jack knew that he was going to join his father in the family business. “I continued going in the summers and started apprenticing for gem setting from my uncle, who was a setter, and from another employee. In the next couple of years I was watching and learning the other processes when I had a chance — casting, assembling, polishing.” Raffi, on the other hand, wasn’t so sure. “He lost interest in jewellery for a while, but he liked taking sales trips with our father to see clients,"says Jack He showed interest in the sales and social side of the trade." As soon as Jack graduated from high school he started working full time for his father. Sadly, their time working side by side was short lived, as Garry passed away the following year. “It wasn’t easy, I was put to the test,” says Jack. He asked his brother, who was still in school, for help, and he got it. “Almost every afternoon he would come downtown and we would work until 11 or 12 at night. After graduation, Raffi joined the company and we incorporated a new company called H&R Design Jewellery Ltd. in 1994.” Today, Jack and Raffi employ five jewellery professionals and H&R Design Jewellery Ltd. is thriving in downtown Toronto. “I think it has been a great advantage, working together with family,” says Jack. “We trust each other and when one of us is not there the company doesn’t stop performing at the top level. Our

plans and hopes for the future are to maintain and promote our company and brand as a reliable, unique designer of fine diamond jewellery.” He has a dream that one day when they each have children they will also follow in their fathers’ footsteps. Notes Jack: “I think it runs in the family!”

Decisions, Decisions Growing up in a family where her parents, sisters, uncle and cousin all worked together, Vicky Tobianah couldn’t help but be swept up into the family business. Her father and uncle started Sinbad Jewellery in downtown Montreal in 1978. The store was originally a souvenir shop but eventually expanded into jewellery. Over time, the jewellery side became the focus of their operation and they moved into the wholesale business. They opened a second office in Toronto 25 years ago. “When I was a baby, my parents used to bring me to work and to this day a lot of my parents’ customers say, ‘I remember when you were little, sitting in a stroller in the office,’” says Tobianah. “In the summers, from elementary school through high school, my sisters and I would help in the office. I was always involved in it.” Tobianah believes growing up in a family business has given her a unique perspective. “I think that for people who run family businesses, it’s very, very different,” she says. “You’re really invested in the business because it’s your livelihood. If you don’t go the extra mile for a customer, it affects the food on the table. “When you’re an employee, you do small things that you think don’t make a difference, and they probably don’t. Like taking a pen home from the office, or printing something that you don’t really need to print — really small things. When you’re working for your parents, it’s different. You try to cut costs anywhere because, why not? Why not save money when it’s for your family?” Since graduating from McGill University, where she studied English and political science, Vicky has been exploring her options, working for her parents and for other companies in order to develop her skills and figure out what she most wants to do.

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newgeneration

Clockwise from top left: Brothers Jack Libarian and Raffi Libarian; Vicky Tobianah with family members Jessica, Isaac, Michael, Camille and Albert; Vicky Tobianah and her mother, Camille Tobianah

“I always thought as a child that one day I might take over the business,” she says. “I’m still deciding. I think there’s a lot of value in taking over your family business, and it’s nice to continue the tradition. When you hear about companies that have been around for 100 years, I think that’s really amazing. I have my own passions and career ambitions, and eventually I will have to decide if this is going to satisfy me in my career or not. You really have to make that choice for yourself.”

The Prodigal Son Johnny Sapir credits his grandfather for helping him realize his own strengths. “My grandfather used to spend a lot of time teaching me the basics of the industry and the fundamentals of business,” says Sapir. “To this day, I still get advice and constructive criticism from him. He is never afraid to be honest and straightforward, which are virtues that I value extremely. I model myself after him.” Visiting his family at work ignited Sapir’s entrepreneurial spirit. After dabbling in the corporate world and in his own business projects, he turned his focus back to the family business, Mirage Creations. He used what he had learned on his own to optimize the division of labour within the company and led the charge in modernizing the branding and advertising. “I did a little bit of everything until I eventually found a niche

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and settled into my own role,” says Sapir. “My experiences made it possible for me to turn my role into my own business without losing the roots and fundamentals I acquired along the way.” Sapir believes that when working with your family, communication is the key. “No one is nervous to approach anyone and give their thoughts on a particular subject. It’s a very open atmosphere where everyone learns from one another and focuses on their individual tasks.” Today Sapir is focused on his own line of branded jewellery for men: Project Paladin. “Over the span of a year, I created sketches and numerous designs for men’s jewellery, all with one common theme – protection,” he says. “Using my family’s experience in manufacturing, I set out to bring my sketches to life, creating a full line of silver products. Each product was unique, delicately crafted, and distinguishable from other brands. The market for men’s jewellery was far from saturated and I took the opportunity to attack it using all the tools at my disposal. Sapir says Project Paladin is evolving into an exclusive, distinguished company and he is excited for the upcoming launch of their online store.” Sapir still works in his family’s office, located in the diamond district of Toronto, and always helps out whenever necessary. Says Sapir: “I once worked for my family, but now I work with my family.” CJ

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Once upon a time,

Passport to Luxury By Silvana Longo

As the high-end jewellery business evolves in Canada, people no longer have to travel abroad to buy statement pieces. But selling this type of luxury on Canadian soil is not without its challenges. Once once upon a time, travelling to exotic destinations was more than just a vacation – it was also an opportunity to purchase high-end jewellery that you normally couldn’t find here at home. The luxury buyer was forced, albeit in a rather pleasurable way, to travel abroad to buy those special, one-of-a-kind, show-stopping statement jewellery pieces. Nowadays, that reality has somewhat faded into the background like some classic black-and-white Hollywood movie: it is a charming and romantic concept, if not a bit outdated. The modern-day, high-definition version is that international statement pieces are also available here in Canada. And although people may still indulge in luxury jewellery while travelling, the reasons they do so have changed. Norbert Brinkhaus of Brinkhaus Jewellers, with stores in Vancouver and Calgary, says that when it comes to people buying statement pieces out of town, “ it’s not because we don’t carry

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them in-store, it just so happens that when people celebrate special events, people are usually travelling.” Brinkhaus attributes the out-of-town purchase to men’s inherent inability to plan. “Men are usually lousy planners,” says Brinkhaus. He estimates about 10 per cent of them plan, the other 90 per cent inevitably sign up for the spontaneous buy. “Women love jewellery but they don’t often ask for it, so when they are away in exotic places like Rome, Paris, Marrakesh or Istanbul, these busy executives finally spend time with their spouses and rekindle the romance and realize they have a wonderful woman at their side.” The exotic luxury jewellery buy happens abroad while couples celebrate a milestone, one more destination checked off their bucket list. There they are, standing in front of a jewellery store basking in the glory of a fulfilling vacation, and the magical purchase happens.

“Twenty years ago, it was true “Twenty years ago, it was true that Canadian retailers didn’t that Canadian retailers didn’t sell fashion-forward jewellery, sell fashion-forward jewellery, so people were forced to buy so people were forced to buy statement pieces in major interstatement pieces in major international centres like New York, national centres like New York, London or in Italy.” London or Sapir in Italy.” – Michael – Michael Sapir Market Advancing Michael Sapir of Mirage Creations in Toronto concurs with the spontaneous buy and talks about how the luxury jewellery market has evolved in Canada. “Twenty years ago, it was true that Canadian retailers didn’t sell fashion-forward jewellery, so people were forced to buy statement pieces in major international centres like New York, London or in Italy.” In recent years this has changed as independent boutique owners with the strength to cater to high net worth individuals moved away from mass market and started selling more exclusive pieces from internationally esteemed brands. “Canadians also began to understand it is better to buy quality, and technology is allowing us to create more pieces like this,” says Sapir. “The jewellery I have sold to clients is world-class.” He goes to Hong Kong and has an office in Vicenza, Italy and knows both the local and international markets. According to Sapir, about 20 per cent of jewellery retailers in Canada offer statement pieces. It’s a small niche that carries high-end jewellery which definitely is enough to rule out the need to travel to get a hold of world-class pieces.

Obstacles to Overcome But that’s not to say that this 20 per cent does not have its challenges in selling statement pieces in Canada. “It is very tough unless you’re in a major market, as it’s very hard to justify having that type of inventory,” says Brinkhaus. “In Canada we have about 12 top jewellers across the nation from Vancouver to Mon-

treal where you can buy reputable statement pieces.” The problem Sapir believes jewellers face most often is that they are undercapitalized and are trying to play in an arena they can’t afford. On this issue, Brinkhaus adds: “They are operating at a $2 million inventory level when they should be operating at a $20 million one," says Brinkhaus, "which means they usually don’t have the selection on-hand to offer someone who wants to buy statement pieces. “If you are going to spend $200,000 to $500,000, you want to have some variety of stone and cut to choose from.” Another major setback in offering these prized pieces is education. Today’s jewellers are often more sales-oriented and not formally educated in the subject. “You can’t compare the background of someone who studied gemology in a university in Europe to a six-week correspondence course,” points out Brinkhaus. “The industry in North America simply doesn’t offer proper training.” Couple that with the fact that the consumer is more educated than ever, it is crucial that a salesperson become highly knowledgeable and capable to present the reasons behind the value and price of any statement piece in the store. Jason Bosa of Palladio Canada in Vancouver testifies to the challenges retailers face when selling statement pieces despite the geography: “The marketing of these pieces can often be very difficult, and the culture in Montreal is different from the culture in Vancouver which would mean the approach would not necessarily work for one and the other.”

Drawing in the Clientele Reasons people buy are just as diverse. Some buy for status, some buy out of social pressure, and some high net worth women just end up buying for themselves. One thing all three luxury jewellery experts agree on is that Canada is an international shopping destination for luxury items and it is up to retailers to draw in the clientele who want, and can afford, those show-stopping pieces. “It’s more than what you have in the showcase,” says Sapir. “Knowledge of who your customer is, is key.” Besides creating Above: 7.45ct radiant cut fancy yellow diamond ring with .86ct white trapezoid side diamonds set in a platinum band (Brinkhaus Jewellers) Left: Rose gold round brilliant and rose cut diamond cuff bracelet (Brinkhaus Jewellers) Opposite page: Overlapping diamond multi-row bangle set in 18K white gold featuring 23 SI clarity diamonds (Nova Diamonds, $70,000)

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Left: Progressive strand flower necklace featuring over 50 total carats of black and white diamonds weighing just above 150 grams of 18K white and rose gold (Nova Diamonds, $126,000) Below: Pink enamel flower design ring set in 18K white gold with 8.8 carats of white VS-SI clarity diamonds. Spring/Summer collection (Nova Diamonds, $24,000)

“It’s not as simple as provide it and they will come.” – Jason Bosa lookbooks of the latest collections, Sapir has started to see more and more intimate, by invitation-only, in-store cocktail parties to showcase these standout pieces to the high-end market. The appeal of special order pieces is also a staple and builds exclusivity. “It’s not as simple as provide it and they will come,” says Bosa. It is that delicate balance of knowing your customer base and catering to their desires. “We have $1 million pieces, we carry five to six carat stones and we will have half a dozen types ranging from emerald to marquis cuts,” says Brinkhaus. It makes a huge difference when a customer can try on a specific cut of a ring that they may have previously thought they disliked. By making the selection possible with inventory and the proper education of staff, minds are changed and sales are made, he concludes.

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And, if your customers insist on buying statement pieces abroad, Brinkhaus cautions to steer clear of the bottom feeders of the industry. You know who they are – the smooth salespeople that tell you the same eight carat diamond you priced at home is 40 per cent cheaper in Palm Springs. For men who are bargain hunters, this is a sales tactic that really works. “The $10,000 to $50,000 statement pieces bought on cruises usually fall into this category. They purchase it and, in the end, they don’t usually get what they think,” says Brinkhaus. These types of pieces are best bought from a global or international retailer, where you would have some recourse. Or, of course, you could just advise your clients to refrain from using their Black American Express cards on those coveted pieces until they get home. CJ

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V E R Y D AY SEXY E V EERYDAY KEEPSAKE

Raymond Weil. Freelancer with visible balance wheel at 12 o’clock

Hublot. Big Bang Red Gold Caviar, in pink gold

2013

Baselworld Everything bright, bold and beautiful…

Hamilton. Jazzmaster Face2Face with rotating dual dials

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Oris. Limited edition Calobra for vintage car aficionados.

Chanel. JL2 Chromatic in titanium ceramic.

Corum. Ti-bridge automatic dual winder, a world first.

Jet Set. Copenhagen line, in pink goldor silver-tinted steel. Distribution: T.A.D.

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Festina. Model FL6629 multifunction in 316L stainless steel, with leather ban

Chaumet. Joséphine watch in white gold and diamonds with satin band Burberry. The Britain collection, automatic. Distribution: Fossil

Omega. Constellation Sedna, in a patented gold/copper/palladium alloy

Ebel. Ladies’ X-1, in black ceramic and stainless steel

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Longines. Conquest Classic collection in steel and pink gold

2013

Baselworld Technomarine. Cruise Monogram, case and dial in PVD steel and yellow gold

Herm竪s. Arceau Petite Lune, white mother of pearl dial

Marvin. Malton Round, 42-hour power reserve indicator

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Montblanc. Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours, Chronograph for day and night

sihh

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2013

WHAT A TIME!

Roger Dubuis. Excalibur Quatuor, First Silicium watch with four sprung-balances

Jaeger-Lecoultre. Master Gran Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee

M AY AY 22 00 11 33 // c a an na ad d ii a an n jj ee w w ee ll ll ee r r .. c co om m M c

Ralph Lauren. Rl67 Automatic, in titanium resin with an elm burl dial

Parmigiani. Transforma Cbf with two watch movements: chronograph and annual calendar

Panerai. Tourbillon pocket watch, Gmt Ceramica

Cartier. White gold watch with baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds, emeralds and onyx.

Paiget. Limelight Gala 32mm in white gold with 62 diamonds, satin bracelet

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Van Cleef & Arpels. Poetic Complication. Enchanted Ballerina Lady Arpels. Time on demand, double retrograde

Audemars Piguet. Tourbillon Minute-Repeater. Chronograph Tradition

Baume & Mercier. Clifton Collection: hours, minutes, small seconds and perpetual calendar on brushed and polished steel dial

Greubel Forsey. Double-Balance 35属, the first inclined double-balance in watchmaking

100

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HONG KONG: A GLITTERING ANNIVERSARY

As 42,000 buyers will attest, the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show was the place to be. By Alice Wenxiu Yu The Hong Kong International Jewellery Show celebrated its 30th anniversary in early March – and broke several records. Presented by the HKTDC, the five-day show featured 3,300 exhibitors and took place on six levels of the Convention Center with breathtaking views of the harbour. And visitors there were: some 42,000 buyers came from 140 countries, spending up to an hour in line to receive their badges. It was an unprecedented scene, even with more than 20 registration clerks and impeccable organization. Attendance was up 12 per cent over last year, with a 25 per cent jump among attendees from emerging countries: visitors from India, China and Russia were particularly numerous. Not surprisingly, the lion’s share of exhibitors came from Hong Kong, followed by Taiwan. As for the European contingent, the Italians deserve a nod for a 150-strong group of exhibitors who hosted a terrific soirée featuring a runway show followed by a lavish reception – as always, a great success.

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As far as trends are concerned, the show commissioned a survey of 600 exhibitors, revealing that white gold has a promising future, followed by silver and, lastly, yellow gold. When it comes to gemstones, diamonds still rule. Pearls are doing well, with the golden type showing strong gains. Then there’s jade – China’s favourite and most celebrated stone. This show is particularly appealing for its many and varied pleasures. There’s always something going on, with runway shows and presentations on hot topics drawing large numbers of professionals. For example, Didier Brodbeck’s talk on the future of luxury attracted a standing-room-only crowd. The awards presentation and the activities hosted by the various national booths were also popular. The HKTDC show has become the place where the whole planet comes together in a networking frenzy. The Basel show, in contrast, only draws half as many exhibitors as Hong Kong. Not to mention that this winter’s event was only the jewellery, gemstones and pearls session; timepieces have their own session in September.

You won’t Believe your Eyes

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“Not only is Inhorgenta Munich the leading show for German-speaking attendees, it is clearly gaining importance as a global event,” says Klaus Dittrich, Ceo of Messe München GmbH.

vISIToR SuRveY

Inhorgenta Munich: going global

THE INHORGENTA MUNICH jewellery show just keeps on growing. Nearly 30,000 visitors from 85 countries visited the show's 1,237 exhibitor booths from february 22 to 25, an increase of nearly two per cent over 2012. one-third of the visitors came from outside Germany; the largest numbers came from Austria, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, the Netherlands and the uK. The diverse showing bolstered the event’s international character and strengthened its role as the world’s leading trade show focused on affordable luxury in jewellery, timepieces and lifestyle goods.

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The visitor survey conducted by the Messe München organizers confirmed the show's success: 97 per cent of attendees rated the show as "excellent", "very good" or "good." According to the survey, 87 per cent would recommend the show either "unreservedly" or "very highly." Attendees were particularly impressed with the comprehensiveness and clarity of the show’s offerings, as well as the great variety of products on display. “We are delighted to have won over our exhibitors and attendees with our high-end design and our new positioning as the platform for trends in the affordable-luxury category,” says Dittrich.

SPECiAL AWARD

In partnership with the Preziosa Young 2013 International Jewellery Design Competition, Messe München presented the Inhorgenta Munich award to New York-based designer Lauren vanessa Tickle for her “Increasing value” project, which features jewellery made from u.S. paper money with silver, latex and synthetic thread. Tickle’s prize (valued at 2,000 euros) earns her the opportunity to present her work at Inhorgenta 2014 from february 14 to 17 in the new Munich trade fair centre).

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Armenia: heart of gold

The ancient land of kings and emperors is finally entering its golden age. By Sevan Titizian Photos by Daron Titizian

With a modest population of just under three million people, Armenia is a country, and a people, with a deep and rich history. Despite the decline of the national population, the growth rate for mining and mineral production in Armenia is on the rise, due primarily to the increasing number of gold and copper deposits in the country’s mineral-rich soil. A recent report conducted by mining-journal.com notes that “In 2011, total mining production increased 19.5 per cent, according to the mining ministry, with gold output jumping 30 per cent.” The same study points out it was the mineral potential of the country that first attracted Lydian International Ltd. in 2005, leading the mining company to discover the Amulsar gold deposit in 2006. The Amulsar gold mine is located in the Vayots Dzor province of Armenia, about 170 km south of the capital city of Yerevan. According to mining-technology.com, the mine has a geological architecture that “has led to the creation of top-quality gold mineralization in several sub-vertical structures.” The site notes that drilling at the gold mine commenced in 2007 and the inferred resources of one million ounces was estimated by March 2009. "One year later, the inferred resources increased to 1.4 million ounces. In January 2012, the mine was announced to have 2.1 million ounces of indicated resources.” COMMON THEME

More recent findings point to a common theme in the trade sector of the country: imports are much higher than the trade exports. Some argue this is a clear sign of corruption, where those in power are ‘skimming’ raw materials and commodities. A study from economywatch.com says “the rising trade deficit is an impediment to the economic growth of the country. A better

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managed trade equation can be achieved by diversifying the country’s economic profile and fostering a range of industrial sectors.” The same study points out that the main exports for Armenia include “pig iron, nonferrous metals [these include gold and silver], unwrought copper, diamonds, mineral products and foodstuff.” THE SHOW MUST GO ON

Despite any political challenges the country faces, Armenian jewellers are steadfast in their mission to foster and nurture the development of the jewellery industry among Armenians world-wide. With gold and diamonds as major exports, the decision of the Armenian Jewellers Association to start a jewellery show in Yerevan was a step in the right direction. The second annual AJA Yerevan Show was held on October 29-31 in Yerevan, Armenia. The show was a great success and a logical extension of the AJA mission. The show provided a platform for local and international Armenian jewellers to showcase their knowledge and expertise in the area of jewellery manufacturing. The common emotion throughout the exhibition – from established jewellery houses and emerging business alike – was pride in a strong heritage and lineage of jewellers, goldsmiths and craftspeople. The opening ceremony was attended by the President of Armenia and the First Lady. Among the esteemed guests were the president of CIBJO, Gaetano Cavalieri, and former president of GIA, Bill Boyajian. The AJA International website notes that the government of Armenia has developed a detailed report on the setting up of Jewellery Free Zone in Armenia. This would boost the country’s economy by attracting foreign investment. It appears as though Armenia’s golden age is just beginning. CJ

The second annual AJA Yerevan Show was held on October 29-31 in Yerevan, Armenia. The show provided a platform for local and international Armenian jewellers to showcase their knowledge and expertise in the area of jewellery manufacturing. Top: Gold imperial egg handcrafted in Armenia (Yerevan Jewellery Plant). Left to right: Diamond engagement rings (Gemcorp International); AJA Yerevan Show exhibition floor; Gemstone and diamond rings (Gemcorp International); Pierre Akkelian (Canadian Gem) and Sevan Titizian (Gemcorp International); c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m / 足M 足足 AY 2 0 1 3

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Not Just Any Diamond in the Rough

JVC’s 17th Annual Golf Tournament, Dinner & Silent Auction Join us and play the south course, which during the 2002 Bell Canadian Open.

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For more information, contact: Carla Adams 416-368-4840 or info@jewellersvigilance.ca

Jewellers Vigilance Canada CRIME PREVENTION • RESOURCE PROTECTION • SAFETY AWARENESS

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g The Whole Story

Gettin

By John Lamont, Director of Crime Prevention, JVC

A recent documentary helped raise the awareness of jewellery crime in Canada. But what the show neglected to report is just as important.

Earlier this year, Global Television aired a documentary on jewellery crime in Canada. On one hand, the documentary shone a light on the severity of crimes against our industry. On the other hand, it seemed to infer that police were not paying attention to this type of crime. Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) sees a much different picture. We know first-hand how police focus on these crimes. John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Crime Prevention, asks the question: “What are you doing about your own protection?” – Phyllis Richard, JVC’s Executive Director

At At the the end end of of January, January, Global Television aired a documentary on its 16x9 program called “Diamond Heist.” The documentary was well put together and gave examples of violent jewellery crime throughout Canada. The documentary focused on South American gangs that were coming from the U.S. to Canada and were primarily targeting travelling salespeople. Many of the store videos used in the documentary were of other armed robberies throughout Canada – armed robberies and thefts committed by people other than South American gang members. The documentary raises the awareness of jewellery crime in Canada and the serious nature of a lot of these incidents. However, the video left the inference that nothing is being done, especially on the part of the police in Canada, to combat this type of crime. Towards the end of the video, the commentator suggested that police in Canada are not focused enough on this type of crime. It is to this comment that I have some dispute. For example, the first segment of the video showed a reenactment of a robbery that took place in Toronto at the end of November 2012, in which

$700,000 in diamonds was stolen from a travelling salesman as he sat in his car. Guns were pointed at the salesperson who, was no doubt, very traumatized by the whole situation. There was no special security equipment protecting him or the merchandise, which was in a briefcase in the trunk. There was no trunk safe or cameras installed in the vehicle – no security whatsoever. However, the Toronto Police took this incident very seriously, as they do with all armed robberies. It was immediately assigned to the Toronto Holdup Squad, a specialized unit of hand-selected officers that deals with all robberies in Toronto. Also, in 2010 Toronto Police conducted a large investigation on South American gangs called Project Cola. Numerous arrests were made and a vast amount of intelligence was gathered. If there is some criticism to be pointed at the police it is that neither JVC nor the industry in the area were notified in any way so that other travelling salespeople could be made aware these criminals were operating in the area.

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For many years, JVC has suggested that jewellers install security glass in the showcases to reduce the amount of the loss. It won’t stop an armed robbery but it makes it very difficult to break the glass and it slows the criminals down. A Matter of Time

The video also mentioned the mother of all thefts: three million dollars in jewellery stolen from the trunk of someone’s car at a mall while two security guards enjoyed a coffee inside the mall. Again, there was no security equipment in the car, no fingerprints, no DNA, no witnesses – just two red-faced security guards with a lot of questions to answer. Certainly, we cannot fault the police for this theft or for a lack of focus on the investigation. The investigating officers later contacted JVC for similar events in Canada and canvassed many other police departments in Western Canada with little success. Only on TV are these types of crimes solved within 30 minutes. This was a jewellery event that was being moved from mall to mall; the guards were obviously followed and the bandits struck at the right time. Any person moving this type of merchandise should be trained on how to identify suspicious vehicles following them. ISPS in New York City is one company that provides this type of training. The documentary also showed an interview with a jeweller that had been a victim of a major armed robbery in his retail store. He talked of how several masked men entered his store with guns, traumatizing his staff and smashing several showcases. The criminals stole more than two million dollars in merchandise. For many years, JVC has suggested that jewellers install security glass in the showcases to reduce the amount of the loss. It won’t stop an armed robbery but it makes it very difficult to break the glass and it slows the criminals down. They know they only have a certain amount of time before police arrive. In some parts of Europe, armed robberies got so bad that jewelers installed special locks in their showcases – time-lapse locks that take six minutes before they will open along with high security glass. Drastic measures. Can you imagine telling your customers they have to wait six minutes before the case will open?

Error of Omission

What the documentary did not indicate was that, within a short time after this robbery, the Peel Police Central Robbery Unit arrested five people who were not South American gang members. They recovered a number of watches. One of the lead investigators told me that the majority of diamonds were sold to a (willfully blind) jeweller at a building in downtown Toronto. When Peel Police went to the building, which is occupied by mostly jewellery manufacturers and wholesalers, one jeweller told them that anyone in the building would buy this merchandise (with no questions asked) because it is so profitable. The stones are removed and sent to Montreal where they are sold to another jeweller who may have no idea it is stolen merchandise. The gold is immediately melted down. The documentary interviewed John Kennedy, President of Jewelers Security Alliance (JSA), a leading authority on jewellery crime

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in the U.S., who indicated there had been a decrease in attacks against jewellery salespeople in the U.S. and especially in New York City. The commentator indicated the New York Police had cracked down on this type of crime. This is what may have driven the Columbians (South American gang members) to enter Canada. This could be true, but the fact remains that the New York Police have cracked down on all kinds of crime. Even homicides are onethird what they use to be.

Putting Measures in Place

What has caused this decrease in crime? The entire jewellery area of 45th street is covered with police surveillance cameras. Police have taken a “Stop and Frisk” approach to some people on the streets. While this is controversial by any measure, whatever they are doing is working and is driving criminals elsewhere – maybe even to Canada. Canadians are not ready for these types of police methods, but if crime gets high enough their opinions may change. These organized gangs from South America are not new to Canada. In 1993, when I was Assistant Security Manager of a large jewellery chain in Canada, we suffered a large theft committed by Columbians in Markham Mall. During this theft, the sealant on a showcase was slit, the staff distracted, and the glass lifted, resulting in the theft of $245,000 in diamond jewellery. After that theft we started using special sealant that cannot be slit with a knife. We did not blame the police. We learned from our own mistakes and put measures in place to protect ourselves.

The Cutting Room Floor

JVC spoke with Detective Bedford of the York Regional Police, who was interviewed for the 16X9 documentary. He indicated that during the interview he told the interviewer of a number of successes the York Police had in dealing with these organized crime groups. These included project CUJO, which resulted in the arrest of five South American gang members; Project BOT, which resulted in eight arrests of these gang members; and Project Imenaza, which resulted in five arrests; and another robbery investigation that resulted in three more South American gang members arrested. That part of the documentary ended up on the cutting room floor and was never aired. Selective journalism to create sensationalism? It definitely raised the awareness of serious jewellery crime in Canada, but it did not tell the complete story. Instead of pointing fingers, law enforcement and the jewellery industry should work together to better identify criminal activity and to protect all jewellery assets – people as well as merchandise. The responsibility lies with the police and with each industry member. JVC has a Crime Prevention Program and an informationsharing network from coast to coast. Are you a member? CJ

Canadian Jeweller wants to know How’s your store doing?

INDU SURVSTRY EY

To help Canadian Jeweller provide you with editorial that’s completely relevant to your business, we’d like to get some insight from you about how your store is doing. The jewellery industry in Canada is stronger when we work together and share information. That’s why it’s important for us to understand your needs and interests. In every issue of Canadian Jeweller, we’ll be surveying you to discover information that will enable us to provide you with the most topical, useful articles.

1. How were sales at your store from 2011 to 2012? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20% 4. What price point items have increased? Less than $500 $500 to $1,500 $1,500 to $3,000 $3,000 to $5,000 $5,000 to $10,000 More than $10,000

2. How were sales at your store in Nov./ Dec. 2012 compared with Nov./Dec. 2011? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20%

3. In Nov./Dec. 2012, how were your price points compared to Nov./Dec 2011? Up by 5% Up by 15% Up by 20% Up more than 20% Flat Down 5% Down 15% Down 20% Down more than 20%

5. Which of the following have impacted your margins? Online stores Competitor(s)’ store(s) Secondhand market

6. List your top suppliers in the following categories: Watches:

Fill in the following and mail or fax back: Name (please print):

Rings:

Address: Store name:

Bracelets:

City: Province: Postal code:

Necklaces:

Telephone: Fax:

Charms:

Email: Number of stores:

Engagement rings:

Cufflinks:

Store Size: Under 1,000 sq. ft 3,000-5,000 sq. ft

1,000-3,000 sq. ft over 5,000 sq. ft

Mailing Address: Children’s jewellery:

Canadian Jeweller magazine 60 Bloor St., West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON., M4W 3B8

Fax Number: 416-703-6392

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2012 Annual Crime Report: Part 2 Jewellers Vigilance Canada

By Janet Lamont, JVC Crime Analyst

This is Part Two of our summary of JVC’s annual crime report. The first part ran in the March/April 2013 issue of Canadian Jeweller PART TWO: OFF-PREMISES CRIMES This section provides statistical data regarding criminal attacks occurring away from the victim’s business base of operations. For example, attacks against traveling jewellery salespersons, trunk and remount show operators, couriers, firms exhibiting at jewellery shows, retailers attacked away from their places of business, including at home, and other industry members traveling with jewellery. I. DOLLAR LOSSES – $6.4 MILLION Dollar losses increased by approximately 39 per cent during 2012 and the number of criminal events increased approximately 50 per cent. This report compared eight cases from 2011 to 12 cases used in the statistical review in 2012. II. PERCENTAGE OF TOTAL OFF-PREMISES CASES BY CRIME CATEGORY The crime category of robbery and theft had an equal number of incidents during 2012. CATEGORY Robbery Theft Total

2011 $2,550,000.00 $2,060,500.00 $4,610,500.00

2012 $1,786,500.00 $4,650,000.00 $6,436,500.00

III. ROBBERY OF TRAVELLING SALESPERSONS A. Violence In 17 per cent of the off-premises robberies reported to JVC in 2012, a victim was physically assaulted, usually in response to some level of resistance on the part of the victim. A gun was displayed in only one of these incidents. The violence was committed by assault or displaying of a knife. JSA in the United States suggests the change in the South American theft gangs’ weapon of choice, from guns to knives, appears to be an effort to avoid more severe sentencing guidelines for the use of a gun during the commission of a crime. B. Trunk/Remount Shows In 2012 JVC received no confirmed reported regarding trunk/remount show losses. C. Off-Premises Robbery Losses 2009 2010 2011 2012 $2,950,000.00 $1,360,000.00 $2,550,000.00 $1,786,500.00 Note: Off-premises robbery dollar losses are down over 2011, but the number of incidents increased by 20 per cent.

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IV. BREAK AND ENTERS INVOLVING TRAVELING SALESPERSONS There were no off premise Break and Enters (hotel rooms etc.) reported to JVC in 2012. V. THEFT - $4.6 MILLION IN OFF PREMISE LOSSES In 2012 off-premises theft dollar losses totaled $4.6 million compared to $2 in losses for 2011. Unattended losses vehicles accounted for all of the total number of off-premises attacks. Unless expensive insurance riders have been purchased, this type of loss is not generally covered by insurance. The largest unattended loss reported to JVC in 2012 was for $3 million. It occurred in Chilliwack, B.C. The victim’s line was left unattended in a car. VI. MOST FREQUENT CRIME SCENES The most common technique used by thieves to identify travelling jewellery salespersons is to stake out a building where a large number of jewellery vendors reside and to follow them to various retail outlets before striking. Parking lots of malls and hotels continue to be the most common place of occurrence for an attack on a travelling salesperson. VII. SUSPECT PROFILE In the great majority of off-premises losses reported to JVC, in which suspect descriptions were provided or arrests made, male and female Hispanic suspects were indicated. Based on law enforcement reports, the majority of those arrested were found to be from Columbia and residing in Canada illegally. Local law enforcement agencies have confirmed the existence of organized criminal groups identified as South American Theft/Robbery Gangs (SATG), which concentrate their criminal activities against the jewellery industry. VIII. MOST ACTIVE PROVINCES Ontario and British Columbia continue to be the most active provinces. IX. MOST ACTIVE METROPOLITAN AREAS FOR OFF-PREMISES LOSSES Toronto, Vancouver and Calgary are the most active metropolitan areas. Note: Although the jewellery industry has experienced a significant increase regarding attacks on travelling jewellery salespeople, the police are making more arrests, especially in Ontario.

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jvccolumn CANADIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY CRIME LOSSES 2009 THROUGH 2012: 2009 2010 2011 2012 Jan $1,823,051.91 $1,535,542.00 $1,602,963.00 $1,858,300.00 Feb $176,799.00 $67,950.30 $212,195.00 $752,629.00 Mar $554,688.71 $1,687,916.00 $612,600.00 $614,799.00 Apr $872,119.78 $333,859.00 $158,032.00 $293,858.00 May $3,597,000.00 $1,253,390.86 $1,153,039.00 $908,000.00 Jun $1,449,479.00 $381,349.00 $2,751,629.00 $1,404,875.00 July $906,799.00 $301,700.00 $60,299.00 $2,219,877.00 Aug $751,379.00 $372,700.00 $190,918.00 $3,420,198.00 Sept $916,399.00 $208,440.00 $1,080,947.00 $661,500.00 Oct $1,555,171.00 $595,836.00 $512,081.00 $192,815.00 Nov $1,687,000.00 $779,299.00 $1,694,216.00 $1,670,387.87 Dec $802,440.00 $663,799.00 $101,500.00 $63,149.00 Total $15,092,326.40 $8,181,781.16 $10,130,419.00 $14,660,387.87

JVC Crime Alerts and Good News bulletins by month: 2012 2011 JVC CRIME ALERT GOOD NEWS JVC CRIME ALERT GOOD NEWS JAN 9 5 6 1 FEB 8 1 2 1 MAR 6 0 5 1 APR 7 2 2 1 MAY 12 1 8 0 JUNE 9 1 5 1 JULY 12 0 5 0 AUG 6 0 7 0 SEPT 6 1 8 3 OCT 3 1 4 1 NOV 3 0 7 0 DEC 3 0 5 3 TOTAL 84 12 64 12

+ JVC also sent out 12 recap reports (one each month) and one training bulletin. + In January 2012 JVC’s Crime Analytical Department produced the first year end crime report of 2011. + JVC Crime Prevention Program had five articles published in Canadian Jeweller in 2012, including “To Catch a Thief” in May and "Fight Back Against Crime” in August. + JVC helped sponsor two police robbery seminars, one held in Winnipeg in May and the second in Markham, ON in November. + JVC's Director of Losses Prevention attended the Jewelers Security Alliance (JSA) annual security seminar in Las Vegas in March 2012. (Travel and accommodation cost were generously paid by JSA). + JVC's Director of Loss Prevention also attended a travelling salesperson training course in New York City in December 2012.

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marketplace a d V e r T I s I n G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE - INVENTORY - WEBSITE

TOP

Voted Top 15 Best-Performing Brand by INSTORE Magazine

Mother’s Day is a BIG charm holiday! Restock your displays today. NUCO PRODUCTS

11 Progress Ave, Unit 17 • Scarborough, ON M1P 4S7 orders@rembrandtcharms.ca 800.387.5238 • 416.293.3495 • 24/7 fax 416.293.1227

Since 1996

CUSTOM DESIGN & FINISHING

PRINT, MILL & GROW

SERVICE GUARANTEE

• Finishing: 2-week turnaround • Print, Mill, Grow your CAD, STL files 2-3 days • Casting provided • All jobs set under microscope • Our jobs guaranteed

410 Chrislea Rd, Unit 9, Woodbridge, Ontario Tel: 905-264-9976 • Toll Free: 1-866-264-9976 info@prestigemfg.ca • www.prestigemfg.ca 124

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marketplace AD V ER T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Insurance for Customers Jewellery

• GOLD • YELLOW • WHITE • PINK • GREEN • STERLING • BRONZE

• PALLADIUM • PLATINUM • SILVADIUM • S-STEEL • PRESETS • MOLDS • ALLOYS

ALLOYCO INTERNATIONAL INC.

1/29/10 3:14:36 PM

CALL TOLL FREE 1-888-475-5384 Phone: 514-845-5384 • alloyco@alloyco.com • www.alloyco.com 55 Mont Royal W., suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, H2T 2S6

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Importer & Wholesaler of

South Sea,Tahitian, Akoya & Freshwater Pearls

55 Queen Street East, Suite 502 Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6 P: 416.363.0110 F: 416.363.2720 T: 1.888.435.9677 www.CrownPearl.com

Restore. Purchase. Sell.

Have you received a notice from FINTRAC?

With over 30 years of experience as a watch maker, restoration expert and luxury watch dealer, Sun Time Luxury is the only place for all of your luxury watch needs. 416.471.5088 suntimeluxury.com

Need help complying with anti-money laundering regulations? Call us, we know how to help: 1-877-366-0100 or www.GrantThornton.ca/AntiMoneyLaundering Conveniently located at

21 Dundas Square Toronto, Ontario

Armandor Enterprises Inc.

Ad-Bullion Mart copy.pdf 1 6/28/2012 12:03:25 PM

New Tel: 416.642.0280 New Fax: 416.642.0281 New Email: info@akbgold.com New Website: www.akbgold.com New Address: 107 Church St. Unit B1 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2G5

New Location in the heart of Downtown Toronto! Now Offering Casting Services

Chipped, burnt or broken? You know they’re hidden somewhere. . . in your safe or at the back of your drawer.

Our team of master diamond cutters and polishers can recut, re-polish and repair all your chipped, burnt and broken diamonds - not all damage is beyond repair.

We aim for AGS Ideal® Cut (the “Triple Zero”) wherever the diamonds allow. In addition to advanced planning and precision design, light performance on each diamond is assessed using AGS Performance Grading Software®.

CMY

EASTERN CANADA Evert P. Botha evert@embeediatech.ca WESTERN CANADA Doug Zmurchock doug@embeediatech.ca www.embeediatech.ca | www.facebook.com/embeediamonds

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(306) 763 3388 (780) 905 3684

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For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com. EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD. PRECIOUS METALS DEALER

ExprEss Gold rEfininGLaLa ltd. ASSAYING • REFINING • • NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES • 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE

YOUR METALS DEALER LETPRECIOUS US EARN YOUR TRUST Web: www.xau.ca

Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111 21 Dundas 401, Toronto, ONmost M5B 1B7 Email: to provide youSquare, with Suite the fastest and accurate results. We info@xau.ca guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.

• Cutters of Rough Diamonds • Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes http://www.xau.ca 400 - 215 Victoria St, Toronto, ON M5B 1T9 • Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds Phone: 416.363.0584 | Toll-Free: 1.888.401.1111 Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE. Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.

Email: info@xau.ca

21 Dundas Square, Suite 8 Toronto, Ontario M5B 1 Tel/Fax: (416) 368-68 email: lala.diamond@hotmail.co

Over 20 Years Experience lala.diamond@hotmail.com

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc. \ Cutters of Rough Diamonds \ Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes \ Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds 21 Dundas Square, Suite 805 Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7

Ramesh Mistry Tel: 416-368-6883

classified

GEMZ CONSULTING SERVICES 1-855-564-0003

a d V e r T I s I n G

In-Shop, Gem-stone setting instructor!

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

Why go to a gem-setting school, when the school can come to you! 3 or 5-day training sessions!

Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

GOLDSMITH/JEWELLERY

Brochures & detailed programs available!

www.gemsettingtutor.com

E-mail: GerryLewy18@gmail.com

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Refining - Assaying - Trading 3/19/13 Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

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Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: www.refinegold.ca and www.goldrefiner.ca

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You Refine

Tel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

Web:www.refinegold.ca

E-mail: info@refineallmetals.com

STORE DOWNTOWN STRATFORD ONTARIO AVAILABLE

Owner retiring after 37 years in business. Premises for lease, fixtures and some stock negotiable. Call Tuesday-Friday 9:00 AM-5:30 PM 519-271-7622 Charles Garnier, the leader in fine sterling silver jewelry, is looking for motivated sales reps to join our highly successful team. If you’re interested in carrying the hottest silver line, submit your resume to andy@charlesgarnier.com or call 213-892-0075 Ext. 103 Great price pointed pearl line for established representative looking for easy, compact and proven side line. Some territories still available. Please contact us via email at info@adinainc.ca

GREAT BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY!

Christine Laurent Jewellers, Sidney, B.C. Established in 1976 and providing exceptional customer service. Voted “Most Favorite Jewellery Store” since 2007. Located on the main thoroughfare Beacon Avenue - the store occupies the best business location in town. The new owner will reap the rewards of purchasing a well-known business in a prime location, 5 year lease with option to renew. Serious inquiries only to claurent@shaw.ca.

CASH FOR GOLD BUSINESS FOR SALE

Excellent location in mid-town Toronto on major thoroughfare with thousands of vehicles passing by daily. Well established. Owner retiring. Email inquiries to grandfxx@yahoo.ca

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WILD LUXURY

Every bold woman can draw inspiration from the “wild luxury” trend – or follement luxe – and its art deco influences; optical illusions; combinations of precious materials; and bold mixes of silver and gold. Here are two fairly casual, but thoroughly sophisticated, ensembles that can be matched up with fabulous pieces of jewellery…

ISABELLE LANGLOIS, SILVER BRACELET SET WITH YELLOW GOLD STARS AND DIAMONDS, FROM $1,569

ELSA LEE, SILVER RING SET WITH BLACK ZIRCONIA BY SWAROVSKI GEMS, $439

CAPLAIN DIAMANT, WHITE GOLD BANGLE SET WITH DIAMONDS, $1,769

BACHET, ALLIANCE SUBTILE RINGS IN PALLADIUM-ALLOY GREY GOLD, SET WITH 36 BLACK OR WHITE DIAMONDS, $3,766

CAPLAIN DIAMANT, YELLOW GOLD BANGLE SET WITH DIAMONDS, $1,268

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AUTOGRAPH, BEIGE LEATHER DRESS, $439

LA BRUNE ET LA BLONDE, WHITE GOLD NECKLACE WITH UNSET BRILLIANTCUT DIAMONDS, $3,325

H. GRINGOIRE, WHITE GOLD RING WITH DIAMONDS, $240

FOSSIL, SILVER-PLATED STAINLESS STEEL BRACELET, MIRROR FINISH AND BOX CLASP, $105

KALEIDO, SMALL GRAPHICAL PURSE IN FULL-GRAIN KIPSKIN, $374

MINELLI, IVORY BOOTS, $199

Vince Camuto, Sleeveless Corsage Floral Blouse in Gypsy Pink, $119

KAPORAL, GLAM SAILOR JEANS, 98 PER CENT COTTON AND TWO PER CENT ELASTANE, $105

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Graceful

Asymmetry

Inspired by the refined and elegant essence of the swan, the Girard Perregaux Cypris Tourbillon for Boucheron is the third partnership between the master watchmaker and jeweller. The timepiece follows the majestic lines of the swan’s plumage with an array of effervescent diamonds, while the tips of the wings are bejeweled with hundreds of blue sapphires. The beak is set with opulent coral and onyx. The artistry of the bird and the exceptional quality of the mechanism intermingle in a timepiece that is sure to delight any high-end jewellery and watch lover. by Irina Lytchak

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Canadian Jeweller

MAY 2 013

vol. 134 No. 04