Canadian Jeweller September 2014 by Canadian Jeweller Magazine

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

SEPTEMBER 2014

Canadian Jeweller Magazine Nielsen: the marketing CJ INTERVIEW Jesper genius behind Pandora unveils a new project

SHOW COVERAGE Check out the highlights from this season’s myriad of shows

EN FRANCAIS

Fabergé en grande première canadienne a Montréal

Clara Agopian

YOUR STAFF How to recruit the right employees and ensure their success

Lugaro Jewellers

Catering to the community

Scan me to go to our website

CMCA AUDITED

6 0 B L O O R S T R E E T W E S T S U I T E 110 6 T O R O N T O O N TA R I O M 4 W 3 B 8 / $ 2 5

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We also offer: • Single invoicing and payment in Canadian currency • Diamond and jewellery review and conditional sale • Extended cut-off time for orders • Customer care facility in Toronto opening late August

Visit us at these trade shows: Canadian Jewellery Group, August 9-10, Booth 38 Expo Prestige, August 24-26, Booth 311

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SEPTEMBER 2014

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol. 135 / No. 06

OLI V IER FELICIO

Beth Saunders

LUC Y HOLDEN

"Working for Canada’s largest buying group of independent jewellery retailers has given me the opportunity to appreciate the many challenges faced by our members. When I was asked to join the Editorial Board of Canadian Jeweller Magazine, I readily accepted, recognizing the benefits the magazine has provided to our many members. By covering topics like bricks and mortar concerns, in-store marketing campaigns, staffing issues and even fashion trends, Canadian Jeweller Magazine serves as a conduit within the industry." – Beth Saunders

I R I N A LY T C H A K M AYA A K BAY SCOT T JOR DA N ERIN BOOTH TA M A R A K E L LY CONTRIBUTORS

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Associate Publisher / lucy@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / irina@canadianjeweller.com Editorial Assistant / maya@thergmgroup.net Art Director / scott@rivegauchemedia.com Production Manager / production@thergmgroup.net Junior Designer / tamara@thergmgroup.net Anita Agrawal, Maria Laura Barreto, Denise Deveau, Véronique Dubé, Ryan Holtz, Sarah B. Hood, Katie Huisman, Larry Johnson, John Lamont, Liza Marley, Duncan Parker, Phyllis Richard, Todd Wasylyshyn

SALES J EFF YA M AGUCHI

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6122 / email: jeff@thergmgroup.net

H O WA R D L A N D S M A N

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6103 / email: howard@thergmgroup.net

A NGEL A H A RTL A ND

Editorial Board

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6129 / email: angela@thergmgroup.net

Jean-Christophe Bédos Birks, President & CEO Haigo Derian L’Oro Jewellery

HEAD OFFICE

60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3B8 tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Gino DeVuono Movado Group of Canada Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada

MELANIE SETH

Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com

ER IN POR EDOS

Marketing & Events Coordinator / erin@thergmgroup.net

MONTREAL OFFICE

2348 Lucerne, Suite 230, Mont-Royal, Quebec H3R 2J8 tel: 514-381-5196 fax: 514-381-6223

Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc. Phyllis Richard Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc.

SUBSCRIPTION RATES Canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rate (Canada only, for six or more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per year.

Mano Rupra TimeRevolution.com

CHANGE OF ADDRESS email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1

Beth Saunders Canadian Jewellery Group

PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8.

Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd. Steve Turac Turac Luxury Group Inc. Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Mart Inc.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Canadian Jeweller B: 9.25 X 11.125in T: 9 x 10.875in L: 8.5 x 10.375

ephraim zion of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it. Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.eDu

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Departments

Contents 16 EDITOR’S LET TER 18 LET TER FROM THE BOARD

20 CONTRIBUTORS / BEHIND THE SCENES 22 PRODUCT SHOWCASE

88 SHOWCASE / MARKETPL ACE

28 WHAT'S ON The shows you can't miss

96 ST YLE COUNCIL Classics with a twist

30 FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events

98 L AST WORD Zorab Creations: Mulberry masquerade

by Maya Akbay

38 STAR WATCH This season's jewels made a lasting impression on us 40 CJ GALLERY Thomas Sabo in Toronto; David Coulthard in Montreal; Tari, Precious World; JCK Preview & LUXURY Privé; Toronto Gift Show & Gem Expo 58 ON THE COVER: LUGARO JEWELLERS Discover a gem in the heart of West Vancouver by Irina Lytchak

66 CJ INTERVIEW Marketing guru Jesper Nielsen tells us what it takes to get to the top by Irina Lytchak

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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CJ en français 51 LES NOUVELLES 54 FABERGÉ À MONTRÉAL: UNE GR ANDE PREMIÈRE

❯2015

Buyers' Guide

September 2014 cover photographed

^ Next issue spotlight:

by Katie Huisman

2015 Buyers' Guide

FOR INQUIRIES CONTACT steelx@paj.ca

Features & Columns

Contents

36 MINING COLUMN Let's talk about conflict minerals by Maria Laura Barreto

64 COMPANY PROFILE: SAURO JEWELLERY Under the Sapir family, Sauro is back and better than ever by Maya Akbay

68 DESIGNER PROFILE: LOVE, MONTREAL Social media drives design-centred Montreal business

74 86

by Sarah B. Hood

70 FEATURE: CJ EXPOS REVIEW Bringing you highlights from Canada's main jewellery trade shows 72 FEATURE: JA NEW YORK COVER AGE We tell you what's happening south of the border at JA New York

80 RETAIL WATCH Is it time to say "au revoir" to cross-border jewellery buying? by Todd Wasylyshyn

74 FEATURE: YOU'RE HIRED The element that defines a retail business' success is its staff

82 ON DISPL AY COLUMN Take these steps to prep your store for the holidays

by Liza Marley

by Larry Johnson

76 FEATURE: RETAIL SHRINK Fighting retail shrink is a matter of common sense

84 JVC COLUMN What is duty of care?

by Denise Deveau

by John Lamont

78 MARKETING MAGIC Your customers are using social media; why aren't you?

86 GEMS & GEMMOLOGY I spy: new gem sources.

by Ryan Holtz

by Duncan Parker

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Editor’s Letter

Being of service Irina Lytchak, Managing Editor

ONE OF THE BUSIEST PERIODS OF THE YEAR may be over but another is just around the corner – the holidays. Nonetheless, it was a pleasure seeing so many of you during the CJG Buying Show, as well as in Edmonton and Toronto for the CJ Expos. I love the fact that so many of you are starting to approach me about your concerns within the industry and ideas on how we can make things better for one another. I’m coming up to a year of serving in the role of Managing Editor at Canadian Jeweller Magazine and it has been a fantastic experience so far. But I want to reiterate to many of you that my role at this industry publication is to be of service to you. So please, don’t hesitate to continue to come to me with your ideas, insights, and even criticisms. My door is always wide open, I’m always signed onto my email inbox, and you can always catch me on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram. Having said that, please have a look at the latest issue, full of more coverage of this season’s events. Starting on page 40, you may find a snapshot of yourself in one of our numerous Gallery pages, featuring the Toronto Gift Show, Toronto Gem Expo, JCK Preview and LUXURY Privé, Thomas Sabo’s press preview, and many more. Be sure to check out Liza Marley’s feature on what to keep in mind when recruiting the right staff for your store on page 74 as well as my interview with Jesper Nielsen of Endless Jewelry and Pandora fame on page 66. And keep your eyes open for our next issue – we will be rolling out the 2015 Buyers’ Guide. It’s a comprehensive listing of suppliers, associations, brands and designers within our industry created especially for you. CJ

Photograph by Jacqueline Hornyak

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Georgia May Jagger

CONTACT: 1 800 361 4611 INFO@THOMASSABO.CA

WWW.THOMASSABO.COM

Letter from the Board

Phyllis Richard Executive Director, Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc.

I STARTED IN THIS REMARKABLE INDUSTRY when I was 16 years old as a part-time salesperson for a major retail jewellery chain. How could I have known that this beginning would lead me on so many adventures and teach me so much? Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) has been a great part of that learning and adventurous experience. Standing up for ethical behaviour, helping to prevent crime against our industry and assisting consumers has been an integral part of what we do at JVC. The complexities facing our industry are many and JVC has brought clarity and understanding to what are often difficult issues. AntiMoney Laundering compliance, combatting counterfeiting of our brands and deterring misleading advertising are just some of the challenges we face. Over the last few years, JVC has had the opportunity to assist hundreds of jewellers in achieving what seemed the impossible – Anti-Money Laundering/ Anti-Terrorist Financing (AML/ATF) compliance. We know that many more will need us to guide them through this obligation. If there is a silver lining in all of this, it’s that we have come to know so many members of our industry on a one-on-one basis and they have been given the opportunity to better understand what JVC does. We are an industry that is knitted together by many small businesses along with some outstanding manufacturers. We get to celebrate many of our customers’ happiest life experiences – weddings, anniversaries, births and birthdays. We are a vibrant part of our individual communities. We are trusted. We also live in one of the greatest places on earth, Canada. JVC is proud to be part of it all. In fact, it is a true privilege. Canadian Jeweller Magazine has supported JVC for many, many years. As a matter of fact, when I started with JVC 18 years ago, Canadian Jeweller Magazine was there. Today, it’s a valuable JVC supporter. JVC’s voice on crime prevention is heard through our regular column in this publication. Canadian Jeweller Magazine also covers our announcements of the annual JVC Golf Tournament and our prestigious Jewellers’ Ball fundraisers. Thank you Canadian Jeweller Magazine. We value your support of JVC and our industry. CJ

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Anita Agrawal

Anita is the Chief Operating Officer of Best Bargains Jewellery, a business that she co-runs with her mother and sister. Not only is she also a talented jewellery designer, Anita is very involved in the Canadian jewellery industry as well as helping with various initiatives that are focused on empowering women. Anita was invited to attend the Tari Precious World fair in Italy this past May and she gives us a glimpse into that magical world on page 42.

Katie Huisman

Katie is a photographer based in Vancouver, B.C. When she’s not busy shooting advertising and editorial work for her Canadian client base, she enjoys cycling around the city, avidly running in Stanley Park or traveling south in search of warm surf. Katie shot this issue’s beautiful cover and cover story on page 58.

Todd Wasylyshyn

Having joined the jewellery business back in 1987 as a sales clerk, Todd has since worked as a gemmologist, insurance specialist, manager and owner. Currently working as a Canadian sales representative, Todd is also an avid blogger who writes for The Toddwaz Report blog aimed at retail jewellers. Check out his column on page 80.

Contributors

Behind the Scenes

Clara and Steve Agopian

We shot the cover and cover story for our September 2014 issue in Vancouver at one of Lugaro Jewellers’ three beautiful locations. Photographer Katie Huisman focused on the store’s extremely elegant interior and stunning product selection as well as the woman behind the retailer’s success, Clara Agopian. We chose Clara to appear on our cover because she exudes confidence, strength and sophistication and Katie did a wonderful job capturing that on camera. We also had the pleasure of sitting down with Clara to talk about her journey to get Lugaro to where it is today along with her husband Steve Agopian and their business partner Sassan Pourfar. Graceful and extremely intelligent, Clara was an absolute joy to get to know and we couldn’t be happier to have Lugaro join our roster of Canadian Jeweller Magazine cover retailers. CJ

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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SEPTEMBER 2014

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Product Showcase

ELLE Time and Jewelry

ELLE Time and Jewelry collections offer a distinguished look that is chic, modern and bold. Like the pages of ELLE magazine, ELLE jewellery evolves from season to season, merging fashion trends and classic designs together to celebrate a woman’s love for personal style. Make a bold statement with ELLE Jewelry’s “Damask” cuff!

Best Bargains 10k gemstone rings from Best Bargains! In a ring, they shine, they sparkle and they add that perfect dash of colour as an alternative to white diamond rings. These stunningly simple, yet gracefully enigmatic rings are absolutely charming! 0.60cts of genuine gemstone, these rings are set in 10kt white or yellow gold with your choice of rubies, emeralds, sapphires or tanzanites. Accented with 0.05cts of diamonds and filigree, these rings are the perfect Christmas gift, modern engagement ring, graduation gift or promise ring!

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Stuller With Stuller.com, our catalogs and brochures, Stuller helps you offer your customers the enormous range of high-quality product and selection they want. Visit stuller.com/bridal to learn more.

Atlantic Engraving

New from our Passion Noir Collection, a gentlemen’s and ladies’ matching duo of a 10k white gold, 6mm comfort fit set with 4 x 0.015cts and a 14k red gold comfort fit set with 4 x 0.01cts, diamond cut on seamless tubing blanks.

SEPTEMBER 2014

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Product Showcase

Nova

Diamonds

Full finger rings are causing all sorts of commotion in the industry these days. Splash some colour on it and now you finger has all the sparkle it needs. By the way, it’s pretty comfortable with hinges strategically placed to allow full motion. This ring features diamonds, sapphires, and mother-of-pearl. Retail price: $6,800.

Thomas Sabo THE ETERNITY OF LOVE ring from THOMAS SABO is a glowing statement piece. The blue synthetic spinel harbours the colour intensity of a radiantly blue sky. Visit thomassabo.com for more.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Lotus

Jewellery Pay it forward with Kameleon KarmaPops® including three new dove designs for 2014. $5 from the sale of each KarmaPop® is donated to KLEO - Karen Learning and Education Opportunities. Change your JewelPop, change a life! Retail Price: $39. Visit us online at jewelpop.com or call 1-866-431-4484 for more information.

GIA

Introducing the GIA 4Cs App – Retailer Edition for iPad. GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used at point of sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate customers about how GIA grades the 4Cs and offers direct access to GIA’s online database of GIA reports.

SEPTEMBER 2014

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Max Strauss

Product Showcase

Bold statement. Not a word spoken. Introducing the newest addition to the Max Strauss Designer Series awarded “Product Line of the Year 2013” by Canadian Jeweller Magazine. Exquisitely designed and crafted in Canada, this new diamond ring will catch the eye of those with an eye for design. Available from B & S (Canada) Inc. For more information, call 1-800-268-9443 or visit www.maxstrauss.com.

Mary Jewellery New from Mary Jewellery – stunning pink gold bands! Available in 10k and 14k, these rings are stocked and ready for immediate delivery. Mary Jewellery is one of the leading jewellery wholesalers in Canada.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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What’s On Trade Shows

The busiest part of trade show season may be over but there are still many dates to keep in mind for the coming months. Here is a list of key dates, location and contacts for the top shows around the world in the coming months to make YOUR life easier:

September September 3 – 7: Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair (Hong Kong) hktdc.com September 5 – 8: Bijorhca (Paris) bijorhca.com September 6 – 8: Midora Leipzig (Leipzig) midora.de September 6 – 10: VicenzaOro Fall (Vicenza) vicenzafiera.it September 7 – 14: Colorado Mineral & Fossil Show (Denver) mzexpos.com September 10 – 14: International Fashion Jewelry & Accessory Show (Orlando) ifjag.com September 17 – 21: September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (Hong Kong) asiafja.com September 22 – 23: International Watch and Jewelry Guild Show (Las Vegas) iwjg.com September 22 – 23: NAJA 42nd ACE It Mid-Year Education Conference (Chicago) najaappraisers.com September 25 – 28: Portojoia-International Jewellery Gold & Watch (Porto) portojoia.exponor.pt

October October 3 – 6: Intergem 2014 (Idar Oberstein) intergem.de October 16 – 19: Istanbul Jewelry Show (Istanbul) ubmrotaforte.com October 26 – 28: JA Special Delivery New York (New York) ja-newyork.com October 11 – 14: Jewelers International Showcase (Miami Beach) jisshow.com October 27 – 29: Yerevan Show 2014 (Yerevan) ajainternational.com

November November 7 – 8: Atlanta Contemporary Jewelry Show (Atlanta) atlantacontemporaryjewelryshow.com/in November 6 – 9: International Jewelry and Merchandise Show (New Orleans) helenbrett.com November 14 – 16: Miami Antique Jewelry & Watch Show (Miami) usantiqueshows.com November 13 – 16: Mid-South Jewelry and Accessories Fair (Memphis) helenbrett.com November 21 – 23: The Gem Expo (Toronto) bluesapphirebeads.com

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 4

Best Bargains

CELEBRATING

We’re happy to announce our newly renovated office! We hope you’ll stop by, but if you can’t we’re offering Free Regular Post shipping on purchases over $500 from now until January 1st, 2015!

YEARS

IN THE SHOW BUSINESS

Package 331: Sterling Silver Genuine Gemstone

Earrings set with 10mm (approx 6cts) a. Amethyst b. Green Amethyst c. Lemon Quartz

Package 328: Sterling Silver 10x7mm Genuine

Package 725: 14kt Gold Fresh Water Pearl and

Freshwater Pearl Earrings and Pendant set.

Your choice $15/pr.

Diamond Pendants.

Your choice $15/pc.

$15/set

Package 706: 10/14kt Y/W. Gold 3mm -

12 months Genuine Gemstone Earrings. All 12 pairs for $144 (Your choice $15/pr.) Package 722: 10kt Y/W. Gold 5mm 12 months Genuine Gemstone Earrings. All 12 pairs for $270 (Your choice $30/pr.)

Package 702: 10/14kt. Gold Nose Pins, set with 2mm Pink, white, & Blue Sapphire, Ruby, Tsavorite etc.

Package 430: 10kt. Y. Gold 8x6mm Genuine

Gemstone Earrings 2-3cts/pr. a.Amethyst, b.Blue Topaz, c.Peridot, d.Aquamarine, e.Citrine, f.Emerald, g.Garnet, h.Mosaic Opal, i.Ruby, j.Sapphire & k.White Topaz a. b.

All 6 Nose Pins for $75 (as low as $12.50/ea.)

Package 940: 10kt. Gold Genuine Gemstone

Bracelets, 13 (6x4mm) 5-6cts & 13 Diamonds 0.06 cts: a. Emerald, b. Sapphire, c. Tanzanite, d. Ruby

Package 941: 10kt. W. Gold Genuine Gemstone Braceletes, set with 8 (5x3mm) 1.70cts & 8 Diamonds 0.05 cts: a. Emerald, b. Sapphire, c. Ruby, d. Tanzanite

a. a. b. b. c.

c. c.

d. Semi precious: $60/pr. Precious: $100/pr.

Package 948: 14kt. Gold Assorted Genuine Ammolite Jewellery.

Package 455: 10kt. Y/W. Gold Genuine

Gemstone Rings, set with a 10x14mm, 5-6ct. a. Amethyst, b. Citrine, c. Mystic Quartz

Your choice of any: $450/ea.

Package 420: 10kt Y/W. Gold Genuine Gemstone

Pendants set with approximately 0.70 of Gemstones and 0.32cts of White Sapphires. a. Tsavorite, b. Blue Sapphire, c. Ruby

Your choice of any: $300/ea.

Package 910: 14kt Y/W. Gold Genuine South Sea Pearl Earrings (9-10mm pearls) set with 0.10-0.15cts Diamonds.

a. b.

Your Choice $175/ea. (also available in other gemstones)

Starting from: $150/pc.

Please Visit us at the following Shows 2014- 2015

SHOW

DATE

BOOTH

VENUE

1. Miami

Oct 11-14/14

753

Miami Beach Convention Center

2. Toronto

Jan 25-27/15

2309

Mode Show, International Plaza Hotel, Dixon Rd

3.Tuscon

Feb 03-08/15

309

Tuscon Convention Center

Your choice $200/pr. (Available in White/Black Pearls)

Your choice $125/pc.

*We use AGTA classification “F” Rubies. YOUR SATISFACTION IS GUARANTEED Offer is valid while quantities last. ORDER NOW! Please order by package NO’S.

Best Bargains 21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306 Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 CANADA Tel: 416-214-2582 Fax: 416-214-4626

For more Products visit our website at

www.bbjw.com info@bbjw.com 1-800-661-4871

For The Record

News/Trends/Events

Jewellers ‘Connect for Success’ in Edmonton Informative and insightful, the Connect for Success Education Day on behalf of CJ Expos, Jewelers Vigilance Canada (JVC), and Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) debuted at this year’s CJ Expos Edmonton show. Members of the jewellery industry visiting the show were invited to sit in on a number of speakers a day prior to the exhibit’s commencement at the Shaw Conference Centre in Edmonton. The day kicked of with a presentation by Larry Johnson called “Top 10 Mistakes In Jewellery Displays & How To Remedy Them.” Johnson is the CEO of Larry Johnson Consulting Services in Colleyville, Texas and is known for his expertise on the most effective presentation of merchandisine in jewellery

JCK Las Vegas to stay a four-day event Next year’s JCK Las Vegas show will not extend to five days as previously planned, and stay the same length of four days. It was previously announced a few months ago that the format of the show might be extended to five days. Earlier, JCK Portfolio Group Vice President Yancy Weinrich told the Israel Diamond Exchange that the additional day would provide more time for exhibitors to meet with new and current buyers and that the consideration for an additional day of the show came from feedback received from longtime show goers. But an announcement that the four-day format will stay the same was recently sent out to the exhibitors for the annual show that will take place in 2015 from May 29 to June 1. The LUXURY 2015 Show will run for three days as usual for invited buyers from May 26 to May 28. It will be open to the rest of the buyers from May 29 to June 1. “While some customers had expressed a desire for JCK to extend to five days, the research simply did not indicate enough interest to justify a fifth day and the costs associated with an extra day,” says the announcement. The JCK event will continue to offer several networking events and education sessions led by leaders from the industry, as well as showcase a big selection of jewellery, watches and gems.

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stores and his affiliation with the EDGE Retail Academy. Next, David Sexton, VP of loss prevention at of Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, presented a talk on “Understanding Jewellery Crimes in Canada” and addressed how jewellers can combat crime in the industry. “Trends 2015 – An Engaging Panel Discussion” was mediated by Todd Wasylyshyn with participation from Montreal-based jewellery designer Claire Vessot, Lilian Jensen of Customgold, also a renowned jewellery designer, and Irina Lytchak, managing editor of Canadian Jeweller Magazine. Last but not least, internationally recognized marketer Ryan Holtz delivered a presenation on “Social Media Marketing – Improve Your Business Image & Sales” and discussed everything a jeweller needs to know to make the most use out of social media. The day wrapped with an opportunity for the audience to ask all of the participating speakers specific questions they may have had throughout the day. “The ‘Connect for Success’ was just that, a success from CJA’s point of view,” says David Ritter, president & CEO of CJA. “The speakers were well versed on the topics and the participants had many follow-up questions after each session. The ‘Connect for Success’ team are already working on next year’s topics and speakers. We congratulate all who were involved and participated as well as the kind donations from suppliers who provided products for the gift bag. We look forward to developing more sessions and providing the industry with valuable and relevant educational topics.” CJ Expos, JVC, and CJA are hoping to continue the success of this initiative by taking it to other cities across Canada in the future.

Canadians prefer brick-and-mortar shopping over online

Thomas Sabo expands Canadian reach with more stores Jewellery, watch and beauty products brand Thomas Sabo has announced plans to expand in Canada as part of its global expansion strategy. Three new concept stores will open in select Canadian locations by the end of the year. The locations are Square One in Mississauga, Polo Park in Winnipeg, and Market Mall in Calgary. The Mississauga and Winnipeg stores will open in October and the Calgary store is set to open in November. Details for another store to open will be released later. Thomas Sabo has eight operating stores in Canada to date, and plans to open a flagship store in New York City next year. “Thomas Sabo has always been heavily interested in the Canadian market and as a result, we have seen incredible success and a remarkable return,” says Mr. Thomas Sabo, founder and managing director. “Our mission as a company is to sustainably expand into a premium global brand within our segment of affordable luxury and the next step for us is to open new locations in markets we’re currently not in.”

Statistics Canada has data to suggest that Canadians are less likely to shop online than Americans. According to the research, Canadian sales for online shopping reached $7.7 billion in 2012, up from $6.6 billion the year before. Total sales were $502.6 billion, with an increase of 2.9 per cent. Despite statistics that e-commerce is growing across the nation, online sales make up only 1.5 per cent of retail sales in total. In comparison, the U.S online sales make up 5.2 per cent of its total retail sales for 2012. The online businesses described as “electronic shopping and mail-order houses” were taking up the most e-commerce sales, while auto parts and motor vehicle sales were a close second, making up 34.8 per cent of the Canadian e-commerce sales. Electronics and appliance stores accounted for 7.1 per cent of the sales. Clothing sales increased 9.9 per cent in 2012. While the appeal of ecommerce and the opportunity of consumers finding better deals and prices online continue to pose a threat for bricks-and-mortar retailers, providing a good service is just as important. “The boutiques and smaller retailers never position themselves as competing on price. They’re competing on service,” Ted Rogers School of Management retail professor Steve Tissenbaum told The Financial Post. He says that retailers tend to spend more when physically visiting a bricks-and-mortar location than they do over visiting the same store’s website online. Retailers are expanding their online presence through social media and otherwise in order to compete with the current market.

U.S. private equity firm to invest in Sears Canada According to the New York Post, U.S. private equity firm Sycamore Partners is considering a bid for Sears Canada after recently buying Jones Group, Talbots and Hot Topic. Sycamore bought Jones Group for $1.2 billion and Hot Topic for $600 million. The year before that, Sycamore purchased Talbots Inc., a women’s apparel chain brand, for $391 million. Sycamore Partners and Sears Holdings did not comment on the matter concerning Sears. Sears Canada has been in a rivalry with U.S. names like Walmart and Target for the past couple of years, as the latter have developed their expansion in Canada. Back in May, Sears Holdings announced to sell its 51 per cent stake in Sears Canada. The New York Post reports that Sears Holdings Corp stakeholder Edward Lampert is expecting approximately US$2 billion for Sears Canada. Sycamore specializes in retail and consumer investments and is known for partnering up with management teams that contribute greatly to their operation and business. Some of the other companies that Sycamore has invested in include Aéropostale, Coldwater Creek, Nine West and Stuart Weitzman. According to the Post, Sears Canada was up for sale since May when the first round of bidding came to an end in June and the second round started in July. Retailers such as Walmart, Hudson’s Bay, and Canadian Tire showed interest in some of Sears Canada’s real-estate locations.

SEPTEMBER 2014

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

For The Record

Men’s accessories to have high demand Demand for men’s watches and jewellery are on the rise as market research company NPD Group reported that sales for men’s accessories rose by 9 per cent to $13.6 billion for the year in May. There was a four per cent growth last year, which brings the two-year increase to 13 per cent in total. Six separate categories were studied for the report, consisting of jewellery and watches, sunglasses, bags, small leather goods, and luggage. Each category saw a sales increase, with men’s jewellery coming at the top with $3.3 billion. “Today, more men are looking to stand out in a crowd, and accessories are a way to make a bold statement without having to overhaul their wardrobes. Instead of buying accessories by piecemeal, men are now making purchases across multiple categories and seasons,” says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD Group, in a statement to JCK Online. “This increase in accessories also correlates with the growth we are seeing in men’s apparel and footwear. Overall, men are becoming more interested in fashion, and retailers are building upon this trend by catering to them specifically.”

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Target Corp. is in the works to revamp its Canadian operations following the plans to expand into the country, and will be changing the product lineup as well as improving supplies. Target will also be collaborating with celebrity designer Sarah Richardson, and the home décor products will be released next year. Also to be released next year is the expansion of Target Canada’s maternity and cosmetic products, as well as an exclusive brand called Better Life for household cleaners. While Canadian reception of the Target Canada stores have been underwhelming due to various factors such as high pricing and low merchandising, the company also underwent several administrational changes, like CEO Gregg Steinhafel resigning. Target has announced to bring 30,000 more items to Canadian stores by this Christmas. Target is also set to open three more Canadian stores in the fall. The stores will open at the Sheridan Mall in Missisauga and St. Laurent Boulevard in Ottawa, as well as at the Solo Park in Winnipeg, Manitoba. This will bring the store count to 130, with each Canadian store hiring about 150 staff members. “At Target we’re always looking for ways to enhance the guest experience, including opening stores in new locations that make shopping even more convenient for our guests,” President Mark Schindele told Retail Insider. “We look forward to serving our guests at these three new stores, two of which we built from the ground up.” The new Target Canada stores will aim to offer an extensive variety of products, including products from Target’s exclusive brands and collaborations. Some of these collections include Beaver Canoe, Nate Berkus Collection, Sonia Kashuk and Pixi beauty collections and Shaun White apparel.

Canadian retail sales on the rise According to Statistics Canada, retail sales in Canada have increased by 0.7 per cent in May. The data shows that sales were at $42 billion with rising sales of new cars and trucks, as well as several sectors that make up the retail trade. Sales of new cars rose 2.3 per cent in May after a 3.5 per cent rise in April. Experts were expecting a 0.6 per cent gain of retail sales, and the results have surpassed their expectations. Excluding autos, retail sales increased by 0.1 per cent, which were expected to have a 0.3 per cent rise. Gasoline sales were also on the rise with a two per cent increase, as well as increases in sales of building material, garden equipment, furniture, sporting goods, convenience stores, and more. Food and beverage stores saw a decline by 1.6 per cent, along with liquor stores down by 2.5 per cent. Health and personal care stores saw their first decline in four months with a 1.2 per cent drop.

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For The Record

CJG 37th Annual Buying Show boasts highest turnout to date This year’s edition of the annual AGM/Buying Show on behalf of the Canadian Jewellery Group (CJG) was a success in terms of attendance and member participation. Running from August 8 to the 10, the event was a great opportunity for retailers to make purchases and stock up on merchandise for the holiday season. According to Beth Saunders, executive director at CJG, the attendance at this year’s show has been the highest to date. The organization currently has 99 members with 120 locations across Canada and approximately 73 per cent were exhibiting at this year’s Buying Show. Each year, these numbers continue to grow. “We were determined to have a great show this year that our membership would benefit from,” says Saunders. “We had three excellent seminars that attracted our retail members in large numbers and some promotions at the show that encouraged members to buy. We are very happy with the whole weekend. We hope to duplicate it again next year, even better!” Mike Lawlor of Lawlor Jewelry in Stettler, A.B. says that the annual show is an invaluable experience for him and by far, the most important show of the year. “It’s the perfect place for jewellers to get together and share ideas and concepts of how they have changed and adapted their business over the past year,” says Lawlor. “This isn’t just a show. It’s a family of jewellers who are all getting together and looking to help each other grow and become better.”

U.S. demand for gold jewellery on the rise despite worldwide decline As worldwide demand of gold jewellery has decreased, U.S. demand has grown, according to the World Gold Council’s new report. WGC’s Alistair Hewitt, head of market intelligence, credits lower prices and consumer confidence growth, as well as a rising fashion trend for yellow gold, for the increased demand in the U.S. Growth in the U.S. for gold jewellery has continued for the last five quarters, with four of the quarters showing growth in the double-digits. Worldwide demand had a 30 per cent drop, however, with the U.K. seeing a 21 per cent increase. “2013 was an incredible moment for the gold industry,” he told JCK Online. “We saw the gold price fall, and we saw people in the physical space respond to the lower price environment with an incredible degree of enthusiasm. There was a frenzy of buying in some locations, which was especially acute in Asian markets.”

Western jewellery market picks up pace Study from the World Gold Council shows that gold demand has slided 16 per cent for the second quarter results, global gold demand sitting at 964 tonnes. Gold demand was at $40 billion, which is down 24 per cent. Global jewellery demand, on the other hand, was down 30 per cent from last year. “Jewellery consumers continued to digest the exceptional purchases of 2013 and investors also rebalanced, pulling back from the extremes we saw last year,” says Marcus Grubb, managing director of investment strategy for the World Gold Council. “Overall the gold market is stabilising following the extraordinary conditions we saw in 2013.” Standing at the forefront of the global jewellery market were India and China once again, with 154t and 143t purchases. The Western market showed improvement with a demand rise of 15 per cent in the U.S. and 21 per cent in the U.K.

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Canadian billionaire invests in Canterra Minerals Corp Canadian billionaire Jimmy Pattison has taken a 19 per cent stake in Canterra Minerals Corp. as diamond exploration rises throughout the country. Pattison has acquired 14 million shares of Canterra Minerals, as part of a $2 million flow through and hard dollar equity financing. He is the head of an $8 billion company with interests in car dealerships, supermarkets, forest products and billboards to name a few. He has previously invested in Canterra President and CEO Randy Turner’s other company, Winspear Resources. De Beers bought the company in 2000. Canterra recently announced the expansion of exploration efforts in the region of Northwest Territories’ Slave Province, where three out of four of Canada’s diamond mines reside. The mines are Dominion Diamond Corp.’s Ekati mine, Dominion Diamond Corp. and Rio Tinto’s Diavik Diamond Mine, and De Beers Canada’s Snap Lake Mine. Canterra shares rose 25 per cent to 12.5 cents last week. Canterra’s properties are in close proximity to the most prominent kimberlites, such as the Marlin property near the north of Kennedy Diamond’s property and across from Margaret Lake Diamonds.

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Mall construction on the rise after luxury retail demand A report by commercial real estate company CBRE Group shows that several constructions for shopping centres are taking place across Canada thanks to a rise in luxury retail sales. There are expansion projects in the works for cities such as Vancouver, Ottawa, and Toronto. As consumer demand for luxury retail grows, more retailers are expected to set up shop in Canada, which requires for the construction to be on par with the demand. “We just don’t have empty retail to speak of. [Across the country] malls are generally full. If you’re a Spanish or Italian or U.S. retailer, you are going to be put off by that. Supply is the key. Until we build more that’s going to be a challenge,” says CBRE head researcher Ross Moore. The expansions that will take place include the Pacific and Oakridge Centres in Vancouver, adding 578,000-square-feet and 373,000-square-feet respectively, the Chinook Centre in Calgary expanding by 140,000-square-feet, and the Rideau Centre in Ottawa by 230,000-square-feet. In Toronto, Yorkdale Mall and Sherway Gardens will be expanding to accommodate U.S. department store chain Nordstrom. Yorkdale’s 298,000-square-feet expansion will open in 2016.

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Let’s talk about conflict minerals Knowledge and awareness will lead to the opportunity of building responsible and ethical sources of minerals. by Maria Laura Barreto

Mining Column OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS, the issues around “conflict minerals” have received a lot of media attention. It’s a truly complex subject that, based on my decades of experience in the field, is genuinely difficult to fully grasp, let alone write about. I recently received an invitation to go to the Republic Democratic of Congo (DRC) to assess the effectiveness of the implementation of conflict-free mining pilot projects. The opportunity to spend time on the ground in the Congo, and to delve into the problems and attempted solutions, has made this issue much more real for me! Despite all of the challenges, I am very excited to be able use my knowledge towards the development of an ethical chain of custody based on certification systems. It will force me to dig deep (no pun intended) into my experiences working with artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM) and public policy solutions in Latin America, Asia and Africa. Conflict minerals are something that became part of the broader public awareness in 2006, mainly due to the film Blood Diamond. At the time, the movie created a strong and polarized debate among the people that were working with the mining sector and with ASM. The arguments in favour of the movie’s message recognized the importance of bringing larger public attention and awareness to the exploitation and human rights abuses by armed groups of ASM. Others argued that the movie was an overly simplistic and unhelpful response to a complex issue. Many of the concerns focused on how the implementation of “conflict-free” minerals, if not done really carefully, could potentially generate unintended negative consequences. Broadly speaking, the worries are centered on the further isolation and marginalization of the people or communities in the areas of armed conflict who are in urgent need of support and economic empowerment. In practical terms, some of the concerns around harmful effects of an otherwise well-intended initiative include: • The direct or indirect administrative barriers imposed on some countries, particularly in Africa, to legitimately participate in the international minerals trade.

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• The creation of real and unhelpful obstacles to import minerals from areas in conflict, even where responsible sourcing may be possible. • Some have even noted that there is the potential for allowing the development of inappropriate national or international trade monopolies for export of minerals involved in conflict. Whether the above concerns become reality or not will depend on how conflict-free mineral solutions are implemented. It will be very important to consider various ways to prevent and avoid the unintended consequences and collateral damage noted. That said, I truly believe that we have a great opportunity to build genuine conflict-free minerals production, along with a sustainable, ethical minerals chain of custody. One way or another, the issue of conflict minerals has gone well beyond Hollywood and is now becoming part of today’s business reality in many countries. In the U.S., the promulgation of section 1502 of the Dodd Frank Act creates additional obligations to disclose information about the importation of tin, cassiterite, coltan, wolframite and gold from eastern DRC (regardless of where it is processed). The European Union (EU) is drafting a new law for tracing the origin of imported minerals in order to combat extraction of conflict minerals from African countries. In Canada there are two bills pending approval by the Parliament that would require Canadian companies to do due diligence before buying any minerals from the Great Lakes region. Is it possible to succeed in this effort to do good and prevent harm in such challenging environments like the Democratic Republic of the Congo? Based on my experience, I believe it is that genuine conflict-free minerals production, along with a sustainable, ethical minerals chain of custody may be the only way that conflict-free minerals can represent an economic and social benefit as opposed to a financial and human cost for all actors involved. CJ

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Every woman dreams of looking like a princess at least once in her life and this season’s red carpet ensembles made those dreams a reality for many of Hollywood’s loveliest ladies.

Majestic Maven Decked out in a stunning Dianne Von Furstenberg lace dress and Brian Atwood shoes, Jessica Alba outdid herself at this year’s MET Ball held at Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in NYC. At the one event of the year where bold fashion looks are on the forefront, the Sin City beauty still stole the spotlight by accentuating her ‘40s-inspired hair with a pair of Angel Hair earrings ($5,799) from Doves by Doron Paloma, featuring rutilated quarts stones with diamonds.

Leading Luxury It’s no wonder that Irina Shayk is dating the world’s hottest soccer player, Christiano Ronaldo. The Russian beauty looked exquisite at Roberto Cavalli’s Cannes Film Festival yacht party donning a daring sheer black gown by the designer. She accessorized with two Avakian rings ($30,000-$60,000) from the latest Caché Collection that featured splendid rubies and dazzling diamonds.

Bodacious Bombshell Emmy Rossum was a sight for sore eyes at the 2014 Los Angeles Film Festival screening of Comet at Regal Cinemas L.A. Live in California. The beautiful actress looked astonishing in a cobalt blue, one-shoulder dress by J. Mendel with lace embroidery detailing. Rossum finished off her look with a gorgeous pair of Sutra sapphire and diamond earrings ($14,500).

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SEPTEMBER 2014

2014-09-04 4:01 PM

CJ Gallery

Montréal Grand Prix – celebrating with a legend To celebrate Formula One week in Montreal, the Canadian Jeweller Magazine team attended the TW Steel Sunset Soirée for a chance to meet with the 13 Grand Prix winner and TW Steel brand ambassador David Coulthard. While he is busy working on collaborations with BBC and Red Bull, Coulthard took the time to answer a few questions about the TW Steel brand, the watches and, of course, F1. Coulthard’s passion for watches comes through in the new TW Steel CEO TECH David Coulthard Edition, launched earlier this year to celebrate the 20th anniversary of its Grand Prix debut. According to the former F1 racing driver, he chose to be the ambassador of TW Steel because, “there’s a point in life when you can afford any watch… It’s a question of wanting something different, not going to the obvious thing that everyone has.” CJ

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5. 1. David Coulthard with Rose and Steve Levy from Ottimo Creations Inc. 2. TW Steel David Coulthard event at La Société, Montréal 3. Canteen and Slim Line TW Steel watches 4. On Crescent street, Montréal, during the F1 festivities 5. Véronique Dubé, writer for Canadian Jeweller Magazine and David Coulthard, 6. Celebrating the 20th anniversary of Coulthard’s GP debut by launching the CEO Tech TW Steel Edition 7. New CEO Tech David Coulthard Special Edition campaign

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Precious gems in a precious setting This past May, 45 delegates from around the world were invited to attend “The Tari, Precious World” Fair near Naples in Italy by the Italian Trade Agency. The exhibit was held at Il Tari, a major international goldsmith center that was born in 1996 and has since served as an epicenter of art and creativity. The unique jewellery trade centre houses over 400 different companies, artisans and goldsmiths on a permanent basis. The bi-annual Tari Precious World Fair also hosts another 100 exhibitors from international companies during the months of May and October. Visitors to Il Tari, 14 of whom were representatives of Canadian companies, were impressed by the exhibit’s highly secured permanent site known for its coral and gold craftsmanship and boasts an area of 135,000 square meters. The fair made the idea of having all types of jewellery being sold in the same place at the wholesale level a reality. According to Terry Wilson of Secrett Jewel Salon in Toronto, “There are so many permanent displays of jewellery stores here and it’s set in a beautiful light-filled modern setting.” Ashkan Tehrani of Tatiana Jewellery Design Inc. in Toronto also adds that, “You can find everything in one location here; from findings to fine jewellery.” Overall, the exhibit allowed retailers, producers and distributors to experience a new setting, purchase very unique Italian-made products and see the latest Italian jewellery trends. CJ

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SEPTEMBER 2014

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M足足足

CJ Gallery

A taste of luxury LUXURY Privé New York, now in its fourth year, is an opportunity for the industry’s elite jewellery retailers and manufacturers to network and exchange business with other top names in the market. This year’s edition of the show was held at the gorgeous Waldorf Astoria on the Park Avenue for the first time. A JCK Event, LUXURY Privé showcased a wide range of exhibiting designers and brands including Charles Garnier, Julius Klein, Simon G Jewelry, and Frederic Sage, to name just a few. The event included a Breakfast and Keynote Presentation on The Future of Retail by Scott Lachut, director of research and strategy, PSFK as well as a Welcome Reception themed as “American Hustle: 70’s Throwback.” Visitors were also treated to a Networking Luncheon in the striking Grand Ballroom of the hotel. The press was granted access to the Editors’ Preview, which was a curated collection of some of JCK’s most noteworthy and exceptional exhibitors. Some of the stunning designs on display included Andreoli, Elena Kriegner and Thyreos Vassiliki. CJ

1. Simon G ladies ring 2.Thyreos Vassiliki 3. A. Link for Forevermark Deco curve ring (Jewelers’ Choice Award Winner)

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4. Coronet Hekate necklace 5. Irthly Adornments Art D’eco Terminal errings 6. Ed Levin Elliptical Elegance earings 7.Andreoli 8.Elena Kriegner Spark ring

SEPTEMBER 2014

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

CJ Gallery

Toronto Gift Fair: Everyone loves a gift… or two Toronto’s largest gift fair kicked off on August 10 at the International Centre and Congress Centre. The four-day event featured over 1,800 exhibitors, showcasing gift items that are coveted worldwide. Attendees got the exclusive chance to familiarize themselves with the latest giftware products, network with other retailers and manufacturers, and gain more insight about the industry. Products from categories that included baby, home décor, toys, fashion accessories and jewellery were extended over the two venues, with exclusive giveaways as well as keynote seminars added to the show schedule. The seminars and workshops were conducted by experts in the industry and focused on topics such as social media and marketing, budgeting your store, attracting new customers, visual merchandising, and more. CJ

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Marvelous minerals:

Gem Expo Toronto review CANADA’S PREMIER SHOW for sterling silver, beads, gems, gemstones, minerals, and beading supplies took place at the Hyatt Regency Hotel in Toronto in July. The event is held three times every year at the hotel’s King Street location. The show featured several vendors such as 72 Gem St, Amberlink, Aya Blanz Studio, Nagib Jewellers, Sapphire Avenue, Skyjems, McDonald & Wang, Sacred Gemstone Jewelry, Fine Turquoise Unusual Beads & Findings, and many others. Blue Sapphire Beads was behind organizing the event and the vendors exhibited their latest products, including the latest trends in gems and jewellery, to a high attendance of visitors. For information about upcoming Gem Expo shows, visit thegemexpo.com. CJ

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Thomas Sabo takes on Toronto Known for its spectacular charm collections and innovative jewellery and watch designs, Thomas Sabo unveiled its Autumn/Winter 2014 Collection as part of a Press Cocktail event held at the prestigious Four Seasons Hotel in Toronto earlier this season. Set in one of the hotel’s spacious halls, complete with floor-to-ceiling windows and overlooking Yorkville, the event showcased the brand’s new collections and fresh designs as guests navigated their way from one case to the next. The Eternity of Love Collection boasted rose gold and silver creations highlighted by lavish cocktail rings while the Koi Collection perfectly flaunted the mythical koi carp in its intricate earring and necklace designs. Thomas Sabo also unveiled fresh, new styles as part of the Karma Beads and Karma Bead Pendants lines, adding to the brand’s already extensive collection of charms. The center of the hall featured a station for guests to have some fun with the new jewellery pieces while enjoying a selection of delicious hors d’ouvres, champagne and wine. Today, Thomas Sabo collaborates with 2,600 jewellers and retailers around the world, with 107 shop-in-shops and 140 stand-alone-shops putting this brand at the helm of the international jewellery industry. CJ

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CJ en français

Les Nouvelles

par Véronique Dubé

Exposition solo en Allemagne pour Claudio Pino

Inauguration de la mine de diamants Stornoway

Du 14 au 21 juin, le designer-joaillier montréalais Claudio Pino présentait ses créations à la spectaculaire Galerie Für Schmuck à Francfort-sur-le-Main, en Allemagne. Cette exposition solo, The Power of Rings (Le pouvoir des bagues), présentait plus de 40 bagues sculpturales réalisées par l’artiste. En plus d’offrir des bijoux fascinants, conçus au moyen de techniques innovatrices grâce auxquelles il transforme les matières premières en œuvres d’art, il met en lumière tout le côté mythique qui entoure les bagues. Claudio Pino se questionne sur leur sens symbolique, leur puissance, et relate des segments d’histoire qui font de la bague un objet encore tant convoité. En 2013, il a dévoilé sa première monographie sur le sujet intitulée Claudio Pino: Le pouvoir des bagues. Une collection reste exposée à Francfort-sur-le-Main jusqu’en septembre et une exposition à la Gale rie Velvet da Vinci de San Francisco a lieu jusqu’au 24 août.

Le 10 juillet, le premier ministre Philippe Couillard s’est rendu dans le Nord du Québec afin d’inaugurer le début des travaux de la mine de la société Stornoway. Après avoir complété son montage financier pour un investissement totalisant 946 millions de $, avec la participation d’Investissement Québec et de la Caisse de dépôt et placement, le projet peut maintenant aller de l’avant. Pour les 11 années de sa durée de vie, la mine devrait produire 17,5 millions de carats. Selon Stornoway, il s’agit d’un des gisements diamantifères non exploités « les plus prometteurs au monde ». La production commerciale est prévue pour le deuxième trimestre de 2017.

Amazon.com se démarque dans le top 10 L’édition de juin du magazine Stores de la National Retail Federation a indiqué que le géant en ligne Amazon.com est maintenant le 9e plus grand détaillant aux États-Unis. La liste générée par Stores Media tient compte des ventes enregistrées aux États-Unis. Amazon devient donc le premier cybermarchand à se hisser une place dans le top 10. Les trois premières places appartiennent à Walmart, Kroger et Costco. Cette annonce indique que les détaillants qui connaîtront du succès dans le futur seront très certainement ceux qui détiennent des connaissances approfondies dans l’habileté à connecter avec leurs clients, autant dans les magasins que dans l’univers numérique.

Les tanzanites de Lou Goldberg 2

1. L’Équipe de la Galerie Für Schmuck Meister und Margarita, Francfort-sur-le-Main, Allemagne 2. Bague cinétique 3 doigts – Metamorphosis (présentée lors du vernissage)

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La bijouterie Lou Goldberg est reconnue pour ses bijoux rehaussés de pierres rares et uniques. Depuis des décennies, la famille Goldberg s’est bâti une solide réputation en fournissant des pièces d’une qualité exceptionnelle à des prix compétitifs. À l’affût des nouvelles tendances, où de plus en plus d’acheteurs recherchent des bagues de fiançailles ou d’anniversaire ornées gu et be de pierres de couleur comme pierre an ld zan Go u ite o centrale, Lou Goldberg offre des joyaux ,L et p a vé de diamants répondant à la demande. Joel et Eric Goldberg recherchent des produits alliant rareté et qualité qui répondent aux exigences du marché et offrent une variété de designs avec des pierres précieuses d’une beauté et d’une pureté exemplaire, telles les tanzanites et les rubellites. Gageons que cette dernière trouvaille saura très certainement trouver preneur…

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Swarovski : l’été est encore là, et l’automne annonce ses couleurs Avec ses accents intenses de bleu et de rose, les bijoux de la collection Adorn de Swarovski sont un splash de fraîcheur et de féminité. Les motifs floraux sont rehaussés de cristaux aux nuances pastel, parfaits pour agencer originalité et délicatesse aux multiples combinaisons possibles. Brillant de mille feux dans une variété de couleurs cristallines, les bagues, le bracelet et les colliers Adorn ajoutent une note estivale et romantique à tous les styles. Et parce que l’automne est à nos portes, Swarovski met de l’avant les couleurs de la saison avec la collection Bound. Les chaînes gourmettes et les mailles surdimensionnées plaquées or rose ou palladium sont embellies de pavés de cristaux, élément automnal à la fois tendance et stylisé. Le bracelet Bound en cuir offre une alternative amusante – on le porte avec le bracelet de cuir noir ou beige pour deux looks différents.

Bague et collier Adorn de Swarovski

David Coulthard, TW Steel et le Grand Prix de Montréal Lors de la semaine du Grand Prix de Montréal, l’équipe du Canadian Jeweller s’est rendue à La Société pour la soirée organisée par TW Steel, ayant comme invité le gagnant de 13 Grand Prix et ambassadeur de la marque TW Steel, David Coulthard. Souvent sur la route pour ses contrats avec la BBC et Red Bull – pour ne nommer que ceux-là! – David nous a accordé une entrevue flash au cours de laquelle on a parlé de la marque, des montres, et bien sûr, de F1. Sa passion pour les montres est dévoilée dans la nouvelle CEO TECH David Coulthard Edition, lancée plus tôt cette année pour célébrer le 20e anniversaire de ses débuts en F1. Même s’il aime partager son opinion et être impliqué dans le design des montres – le cadran en carbone était son idée – David laisse les experts faire leur travail. La raison pour laquelle il a décidé de se joindre à l’équipe de TW Steel est fort simple : « Je suis arrivé à un point où je pouvais m’offrir n’importe quelle montre… Pour moi, il était question de vouloir quelque chose de différent et de sortir des sentiers battus. » Finalement, selon David, le Grand Prix est un événement glamour qui a toujours sa place à Montréal parce que « les gens se pomponnent, sortent dans les rues et font la fête! »

Véronique Dubé, journaliste pour le magazine Canadian Jeweller et David Coulthard, 13 fois gagnant de Grand Prix.

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Conférence Perspective on the diamond sector, JCK Las Vegas 2014. À gauche, Philippe Mellier, PDG du groupe De Beers. À droite: Stephen Lussier, PDG de Forevermark.

Conférence sur la « Perspective du secteur diamantifère » de Forevermark Lors du JCK Las Vegas, Philippe Mellier, PDG du groupe De Beers et Stephen Lussier, PDG de Forevermark, ont expliqué quels sont les facteurs et les habitudes de consommation qui influencent le secteur du diamant en Amérique du Nord. Ils ont entre autres abordé les sujets de l’attraction innée envers les diamants et des nouvelles approches marketing, qui sont maintenant davantage orientées vers le style de vie de la génération Y. On a parlé du traitement de l’émotion et de l’image, qui se doit d’être plus transparent. Un fait déterminant est qu’aujourd’hui, les consommateurs sont 5 fois plus enclins à acheter une bague de fiançailles avec un diamant de marque qu’il y a 10 ans. Selon les dirigeants de l’entreprise, le rêve du diamant se maintient par la marque, d’où l’importance d’investir dans le marketing, la marque ellemême et les standards de vente. Un de ces standards est l’environnement, ce qui explique pourquoi de plus en plus de compagnies exigent que leurs pierres soient extraites de mines respectant les normes d’approvisionnement responsable. Pour les deux PDG, construire une marque n’a rien de rationnel. Et tous les enjeux qui s’y rattachent doivent être minutieusement orchestrés.

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Satellite Wave de Citizen : quand technicité et bon goût se rencontrent Munie du mouvement Calibre F100, la toute nouvelle Satellite Wave est équipée de la technologie Eco-Drive, d’un calendrier perpétuel, de la date, de l’heure de 47 villes du monde, d’un indicateur Satellite Wave 2014 de Citizen des jours de la semaine, de réserve de puissance et du niveau de lumière, en plus de ses fonctions de récepteur GPS. Le cadran est clairement organisé et chaque aiguille possède son propre moteur. Une firme d’investissement privée achète John Produite en titane, la montre est offerte en Hardys deux versions, argentée ou noire. Le style du boîtier est tout à fait remarquable, La firme d’investissement privée Catterton, qui a fait couler de l’argent chez offrant un look biseauté et inhabituel. La montre en elle-même est légère et Baccarat et dans la compagnie de produits capillaires Frederic Fekkai, malgré sa fonction GPS, son boîtier de 45,4 mm est relativement mince (12,4 a acquis John Hardy pour une somme demeurée confidentielle. Robert mm). Résistante à l’eau à une profondeur de 100 mètres, on l’aime pour ses Hanson, l’ancien PDG de American Eagle Outfitters qui avait été subitecaractéristiques brillamment intégrées à une montre qui offre un grand côté ment renvoyé en janvier dernier, a été nommé nouveau PDG de John Hardy. portable. Les bijoux John Hardy sont vendus chez plus de 600 détaillants à travers le monde, dans des grands magasins tels Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue et Bloomingdale’s, et par des bijoutiers indépendants. La «pile» de bracelets du designer John Hardy, une marque née en 1975 et créée par le designer du Alex and Ani : une marque à surveiller même nom, a été inspirée d’un voyage à Bali. La compagnie en pleine croissance Alex and Ani se retrouve dans la liste des marques innovatrices « Made in America : Top 10 Brands to Watch », une liste qui dresse le portrait d’entreprises s’étant brillamment engagées à répondre aux demandes constamment changeantes des consommateurs. Les Nouveau programme Hearts of Today chez Pandora critères de sélection sont basés sur la fidélité des consommateurs, les activités Pandora lance une nouvelle campagne pour rendre hommage aux femmes média et la visibilité, la capacité à créer un produit équitable et l’innovation autour du monde qui travaillent afin d’améliorer la vie des dames et des marketing de la marque avec des produits fabriqués aux États-Unis. enfants de leur communauté. Le jury, composé de cinq femmes d’honneur, En ce sens, Alex and Ani est une pionnière quant à la conscience corporative, choisira 20 demi-finalistes parmi toutes les candidatures envoyées par le puisque toutes les pièces sont fabriquées aux États-Unis et leurs points de public. Les gagnantes recevront 25 000 $ qu’elles remettront à l’organisme vente sont situés sur les rues principales afin de faire revivre et d’encourager pour lequel elles œuvrent. Les candidatures peuvent être envoyées par interl’économie locale. net, dans la section Hearts of Today de Pandora.net.

La freelancer pour femmes de Raymond Weil : élégance, simplicité et diamants

De Raymond Weil, la freelancer pour femmes

Avec son mouvement délicatement révélé au travers d’une ouverture à 12 heures, désormais une signature subtile, cette nouveauté de Raymond Weil a tout pour plaire aux curieux de la mécanique horlogère. Le boîtier de 38 mm en acier poli est serti de 66 diamants. Un verre saphir avec traitement antireflet en dévoile 12 autres, sertis sur le cadran, en plus de laisser entrevoir le mouvement mécanique à remontage automatique qui alimente la montre. La freelancer est munie d’un bracelet en cuir de veau gris avec une boucle déployante estampillée RW à double poussoir de sécurité, et est étanche jusqu’à 10 atm. Laissez-vous charmer par son côté énigmatique aux accents diamantés.

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Œuf de Pâques impérial dit Pierre le Grand, 1903

CJ en français

Pichet Lapin, Avant 1899

FABERGÉ À MONTRÉAL : une grande première Du 14 juin au 5 octobre, le Musée des beaux-arts de Montréal accueille l’exposition Fabuleux Fabergé, Joaillier des tsars. En provenance du Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (VMFA) de Richmond et présentée en exclusivité canadienne, il s’agit de la plus grande collection Fabergé à voyager hors de la Russie. Et parmi les 240 objets présentés au Musée, on retrouve quatre des plus fameux œufs de Pâques.

ARTISTE JOAILLIER LÉGENDAIRE, Peter Carl Fabergé naquit en 1846 à Saint-Pétersbourg en Russie. Il est le fils de Gustav Fabergé, joaillier, et de Charlotte Jungstedt, fille d’un peintre danois. Il commença ses études dans sa ville natale, puis les poursuivit à Dresde, en Allemagne, où il entra à l’École des Arts et des Métiers. Ensuite, comme le faisaient plusieurs jeunes gens de l’époque, l’étudiant décida de s’immerger des richesses culturelles du Grand Tour. Enchaînant avec des études en orfèvrerie et en économie, il parcourut l’Europe, tour à tour il visita la France, l’Italie, l’Allemagne et l’Angleterre. De retour à Saint-Pétersbourg, en 1870, il reprit les rênes de l’entreprise familiale, la joaillerie ouverte par son père en 1842, située au 24 rue Bolchaïa Morskaïa. Pendant les 10 années qui suivirenti, l’artisan Hiskias Pendin, qui avait été employé par son père, agit comme son mentor et tuteur. En 1882, Carl et son frère, Agathon, firent sensation lors de l’Exposition industrielle panrusse de Moscou, où l’impératrice Maria Feodorovna fit l’acquisition d’une petite pièce

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de joaillerie archéologique. Le travail du virtuose fut alors remarqué par le tsar Alexandre III et en 1885, il offrit le premier œuf de Pâques à l’impératrice.

Les œufs impériaux Maître incontesté dans la joaillerie de luxe, le joaillier Peter Carl Fabergé donna naissance aux objets précieux destinés aux tsars Alexandre III et Nicolas II de Russie, qui les offraient à leurs épouses respectives, Maria Feodorovna et Alexandra Feodorovna, pour la fête de Pâques. On dit qu’Alexandre III contribua à la fabrication du premier œuf qu’il offrit à sa femme. Petite fille, cette dernière avait été fascinée par un œuf ayant appartenu à sa tante, l’impératrice danoise Wilhelmine Marie. Elle en fit la description avec un tel enthousiasme et une telle nostalgie à son mari qu’en 1885, celui-ci en commanda un tout à fait identique à celui qui allait devenir l’orfèvre de la cour impériale, Peter Carl Fabergé.

Photos par Katherine Wetzel © Virginia Museum of Fine Arts

par Véronique Dubé

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Photos par Katherine Wetzel © Virginia Museum of Fine Arts

Œuf de Pâques impérial dit Le tsarévitch, 1912

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« Cette première importante exposition au Canada offre une opportunité de découvrir l’excellence des arts décoratifs de la Maison Fabergé, dont le destin est tragiquement lié à l’histoire et à la chute de la Maison impériale russe en 1917 » - Nathalie Blondil, directrice et conservatrice en chef du MBAM Le Premier Œuf à la poule, fabriqué en or, était complètement recouvert d’un émail blanc opaque pour ressembler à un œuf réel. Les deux moitiés s’ouvraient sur deux surprises ; la première, un « jaune d’oeuf » en or au fini mat qui contient la deuxième surprise, une poule en or multicolore ornée de yeux en rubis. L’impératrice en fut si ravie qu’il marquale point de départ d’une tradition qui dura 32 ans, jusqu’en 1917. À chaque fête de Pâques, Alexandre III offrait un œuf à Maria Feodorovna. À partir de 1895, son fils, le tsar Nicolas II, présenta toutes les années un œuf à sa femme, l’impératrice Alexandra Feodorovna, ainsi qu’à sa mère. Les œufs étaient des cadeaux personnels et en plus de faire partie d’une collection spectaculaire, ils relatent l’histoire à la fois romantique et tragique qui mena à la fin des puissants Romanov. Des 50 œufs que Fabergé avait confectionnés pour la famille impériale de 1885 à 1917, 43 ont survécu.

Créateur de bijoux et d’objets exquis En 1900, la Maison Fabergé reçut une médaille d’or hors concours à l’Exposition universelle de Paris ainsi que les titres de joaillier de la Cour et de conseiller industriel en 1910. Des succursales de la Maison ouvrirent à Moscou (1897), Odessa (1901), Londres (1903) et Kiev (1906-1910). Lors du Bal costumé impérial de 1903, le joaillier créa les bijoux de la tsarine Alexandra

Une fin tragique pour la famille Fabergé La réputation de la Maison Fabergé réunissait la royauté, la noblesse, les magnats, les industriels et l’intelligentsia artistique de Paris, Moscou, Saint-Pétersbourg et Londres. Cependant, en 1914, la Maison perdit de nombreux artisans quand ceux-ci durent s’enrôler. Peter Carl Fabergé entrevoyait un avenir sombre et en 1916, il convertit son entreprise en une compagnie d’actions concertées. En dernier lieu, les violences engendrées par la révolution russe qui menèrent au renversement du régime tsariste mirent fin aux activités de la Maison Fabergé. Les bolcheviks saisirent les ateliers de Fabergé ainsi que leurs trésors et cessèrent la production. Peter Carl Fabergé et sa famille quittèrent la Russie et s’installèrent en Suisse. Le célèbre joaillier mourut de chagrin – selon la rumeur – le 24 septembre 1920, à l’Hôtel Bellevue, à Lausanne. NOTE En 1951, la famille Fabergé perdit le droit de produire et distribuer sous le nom de Fabergé. Toutefois, en octobre 2007, sous l’influence d’un nouveau propriétaire et d’une nouvelle direction, le nom Fabergé est à nouveau uni à la famille Fabergé. CJ

1. Œuf de Pâques impérial dit Au Pélican, 1897 2. Bouledogue français, Vers 1900 3. Globe terrestre, Avant 1899 4. Œuf de Pâques impérial dit de la Croix-Rouge avec portraits, 1915

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Photos par Katherine Wetzel and Travis Fullerton © Virginia Museum of Fine Arts

Feodorovna. De plus, à l’occasion de la célébration du tricentenaire de la dynastie des Romanov, il reçut un nombre élevé de commandes.

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Cover Story

Catering to the

COMMUNITY With community being a top priority for Lugaro, this jeweller’s reputation is a direct reflection of the people behind its name. by Irina Lytchak photography by Katie Huisman

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Clara Agopian at her store

ELEGANT, POISED AND CONFIDENT. These are the words that came to mind when we first met Clara Agopian, the woman behind the success of Lugaro Jewellers in Vancouver, B.C. Jewellery aside, Clara firmly believes that community involvement is of the utmost importance. Lugaro’s clientele and list of charitable organizations is endless as is their impeccable reputation for giving back to the community. Some of the organizations that Lugaro is directly involved with include the Canuck Place, Canadian Cancer Society, SPCA, Canadian Liver Foundation, Rare Disease Foundation, and Vancouver Symphony Orchestra to name just a few. “I really believe it doesn’t matter how much money you have, who you are, or where you live,” says Clara. “If your community isn’t healthy, you’re not going to enjoy it. If you go to any charity function today, you see that people always go to jewellers for contributions. Is there any other industry that has a bigger heart than jewellery? No, I don’t think so.” Clara’s involvement in the community extends far beyond the jewellery store and into her personal life. She decided to make West Vancouver her home, where she serves on the local police board and is involved with the hospital foundation. We first met Clara at our downtown Toronto office this summer when she stopped by while on a visit with her daughter. Back in Vancouver, Clara has

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“The store itself is a big part of the cultural landscape of the North Shore. We’ve always been the community jeweller.” been running Lugaro Jewellers along with her husband Steve Agopian and their business partner Sassan Pourfar for nearly 28 years. The chain currently has three locations and Clara is responsible for the Park Royal store, catering to Canada’s highest paying income tax postal code. “The store itself is a big part of the cultural landscape of the North Shore,” she explains. “We’ve always been the community jeweller, so to say. But it’s not an average community. The client that lives here is an international dweller, with homes in Europe and Asia. Those are the kinds of people that shop in our store.” Lugaro was initially established by Clara’s husband Steve Agopian, who also runs Seca Gems Ltd., a wholesale jewellery company dealing with mostly loose diamonds that he also launched over 40 years ago. The store deals with a lot of luxury watch brands as well as their own in-house jewellery designs, which are created by the Agopians. “As far as our industry goes, I’m so excited about Canadian diamonds,” says Clara. “Social consciousness is something I really relate to. And I remember 20 years ago, I had Canadian diamonds in our stores. Supporting this has been so important to us.” Clara never envisioned herself doing the kind of work she does today,

having studied to be a microbiologist at the University of Alberta before meeting Steve. This prompted a move from Edmonton to Vancouver where she has since become synonymous with Lugaro and its refined image. Lugaro has perfected the idea of creating an environment that’s lavish yet inviting at the same time. The store has an alluring atmosphere where customers are greeted with a cappuccino or a glass of champagne. And since relationships are built on trust, Clara insists that whenever someone gets engaged, they get a card from the store congratulating them on their milestone. “We don’t just wait for brands to create that atmosphere,” she says. “We have to play the main role in creating and fostering an environment of unparalleled excitement and enthusiam for the client and their needs. The way I sell a large item to my clients is I make them visualize it. If you buy a necklace, it’s not for today, it’s for your son’s engagement party, or graduation party for your daughter. Can you see her wearing it? You have to build a picture; build a scene; you have to create a luxury environment. And I think a lot of jewellers have failed in that area.” Lugaro carries over 3,000 items in a streamlined and stylish setting, spreading over an area of 3,500 square feet. Most of the staff in the store

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“The fact that they’ve been coming to us over and over again for the past 28 years means they’ve made the right decision.” have been at Lugaro for over 15 years, with a total of about 35 employees working throughout the three locations. Clara fully understands the importance of her staff and places a lot of emphasis on educating them to be confident in the product they sell. “I think that Canadians have this assumption that everything coming from the U.S. is better quality or cheaper,” she says. “It’s taken me 28 years to work with my staff and to give them the confidence to say, ‘There’s nothing out there you can beat if you’re competing with price.” “Service-wise, we can be ten times above everybody else because of the knowledge, the sourcing ability, and the confidence that we have. For many jewellers, the minute they hear a client is shopping in the U.S., they just give up. They do not take the time to educate and work with the client on selling the value of a product as opposed to the price point. This is where we are different.” The Lugaro stores weren’t always the way they are today. The chain used to have a total of seven locations but decided to downsize with a new strategy of catering to a more upscale customer base. “The industry itself is changing; it’s brand controlled. Brands like Rolex are a definite draw for customers who are interested in prestigious timepieces. So

concentrating on one larger and better location, we found, was far better for us. We have become the go-to location, albeit flagship store, for this growing upscale clientele.” About a decade ago, the Agopians were honoured with an award by the Forum for Women Entrepreneurs B.C., which Clara accepted on the pair’s behalf. “I made a speech saying, ‘When you go into business with your husband, they don’t tell you about all of the sleepless nights you’re going to have and all of the headaches and stomach aches and silent treatments you’re going to receive. But for those of us who make it, the rewards are phenomenal – in the bedroom and in the boardroom.” At the end of the day, Lugaro’s success lies in its owners, the people that know exactly what their clients want and are aware of the ability they hold as a jewellery store to better their community. “When the client comes in to buy something, they’ve done their research,” says Clara. “And what makes people successful is the ability to do research. They can make an informed decision. And the fact that they’ve been coming to us over and over again for the past 28 years means they’ve made the right decision.” CJ

AT A GL A NCE NAME: Lugaro Jewellers OWNERS: Clara and Steve Agopian LOCATIONS: Park Royal South (961 Park Royal South, West Vancouver, B.C.); Metropolis at Metrotown (1130.4700 Kingsway, Burnaby, B.C.); Mayfair Mall (235.3147 Douglas Street, Victoria, B.C.) KNOWN FOR: the owners STORE SIZE: 3,500 square feet STAFF: 35 BRANDS: Rolex, Chopard, Ulysses Nardin, Rado, Longines, Jaquet Droz, Bell & Ross, Omega, etc COOL FACTOR: Involvement with community and charity work

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Company Profile

Reinventing a classic

Sauro Italia Gioielli Oltre has been a staple brand for men’s jewellery for 25 years, starting from Italian engineer Ivo Sedazzari’s vision of creating innovative and functional pieces. After being purchased and rebranded three years ago by the Sapir family, Sauro Jewellery is back and better than ever. by Maya Akbay

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SINCE PURCHASING SAURO JEWELLERY, the Sapirs have redeveloped the entire line with a focus on the brand’s classic roots and in 2013, Sauro was officially re-launched. Throughout the years, technical precision has stayed the number one priority for Sauro. Johnny Sapir, director of brand development, remembers back when it was time to make a crucial decision regarding the identity of the brand. “When the gold prices skyrocketed, we needed to find a different way of making money. Maybe not focusing on heavy gold chains, but focusing more on alternative materials,” says Sapir. “But at the same time, what Sauro is known for is technical precision. So we wanted to find a way to incorporate new materials that aren’t commonly used in jewellery, with the technical engineering that Sauro is known for.” After deciding that titanium, carbon fiber, and rubber were the best three materials to go forward with for the new line, they were combined with gold for the perfect twist on the classic Sauro style. “That’s what we wanted to use; that’s what we thought was the future of jewellery,” he says. “Sauro is known for its patented chain style, for example. We have chains that no one else in the world has and nobody else in the world can make.” The company stands behind the complexity of the pattern and the process behind their chains. “We create certain styles just to be special, to be different.” In fact, standing out from the crowd is a rule of thumb for Sauro. Sapir stresses the importance of being different, but the trick is to take alreadyexisting styles and materials and build on them. “We need to incorporate that into what Sauro is known for, which is technical precision,” he says. Since mechanical perfection is at the forefront of the designs, the titanium that the brand uses is the same material used on space shuttles. “That’s the future where we’re going with Sauro,” he adds. Sauro was originally created and developed by Ivo Sedazzari, the father of the two brothers that the Sapir family is in partnership with. Sedazzari was an engineer by trade and developed the concept of the mechanisms that are used in Sauro jewellery today. “When we launched, we found the demand to be a lot higher than we expected. For us to supply that demand, we wanted to perfect our line and only offer products that we know will truly separate us from our competitors,” says Sapir. Sapir was 17 years old when he got into the jewellery industry through the family diamond business. He went on to study marketing after high school in order to improve his promotional skills. When his university went on strike, he

decided to forego finishing his degree and opened his own business instead. Once Sapir felt like his company had taken off, he came back to the family to create a marketing department that never existed within the business before. “I originally studied marketing to go into the creative advertising business, but I fell into the jewellery business because I just knew it and I understood it.” Sapir points out that the jewellery industry requires one to have connections in order to enter it, hence the fact that it gets passed down through families and generations. Yet the biggest challenge facing the industry right now, he says, is identifying your market. “Trying to pinpoint what’s going to work where is very difficult because things are constantly changing and what may work in Los Angeles, works here a year later, or vice versa,” he explains. “We have to bounce our products around and the challenge is constantly trying to adapt to the current market.” Sauro Jewellery has plans to expand to the U.K., France, Monaco, the U.S., and South America in the future. The main focus is allocating exclusivity to specific areas, such as East Coast Jewellery in Florida and Classic Creations in Toronto. As part of venturing out to expand in Europe and the U.S., the brand’s official website has been revamped with the help of a branding agency that has worked with companies like Yogen Früz and BMW. “Sauro is such a niche; it’s high-end men’s jewellery, so there’s always a small market everywhere,” he says. “It’s not necessary to be in every store but it’s necessary to be in the high-end stores.” The idea of branching out into women’s jewellery one day has also been on the radar for Sauro Jewellery. “There is room to grow in women’s jewellery and we’re looking at it more as a long-term plan. It’s not something we’re going to roll out next year,” explains Sapir. “Women’s jewellery is a completely different market and in order to do something to be really special in women’s jewellery, we have to do a lot of research and a lot of prototyping. I feel that it’s a lot more saturated.” In the meantime, the team behind Sauro is focused on a new carbon fiber line as well as an ebony collection that will be unveiled just in time for the holidays. According to Sapir, the combination of gold, wood and carbon fiber will give men an opportunity to accessorize their timepieces. “I like to call it the ‘wrist game.’ Men like to wear watches, but how do you accessorize them?” he says. “So we developed an entirely new line of ‘wrist game’ where men can wear bracelets with their watches.” And it’s this type of thinking that has allowed Sauro to continue to stay on top of its game throughout the years. CJ

Johnny Sapir, president of Sauro Jewellery Canada, with grandmother, Mary Sapir, during an event in Toronto

Lally and husband Michael Sapir, director of Sauro Jewellery

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Jesper Nielsen

‘Endless’ possibilities With a name like Jesper Nielsen behind it, it’s no surprise that Endless Jewelry has taken the jewellery industry by storm in a span of just a few short months. by Irina Lytchak

CJ Interview

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WHEN YOU HEAR THE NAME ‘PANDORA,’ you’re more than likely to associate it with the notably popular miniature charm bracelets that have been popping up on the wrists of girls and women everywhere over the past few years. But not many people are familiar with the man behind the brand and that man is Jesper Nielsen. We first met Nielsen at the last JCK Las Vegas show where Endless Jewelry, his latest endeavor, unveiled its designs to the industry for the first time. At that point, Nielsen had become accustomed to working on Pandora in the European market and being in the U.S. gave Endless a fresh, new perspective. “There’s another attitude here and more willingness to try new things, with much bigger investments than we’re used to in the old established European markets,” says Nielsen. “I’m still a bit shocked of the willingness in this country.” At that point, Endless had only been 9 months old but the company had already gained momentum as the one to watch for when it came to the brand’s signature leather bracelets and original charms. When we spoke with Nielsen, he didn’t hide the fact that Endless’ initial success can be attributed to the vast knowledge and experience he brought along with him to the project after years of working with Pandora. “We’re a young brand but our history and legacy from a former company allowed ourselves to continue the business,” says Nielsen. “I think overall we can say that we are a little bit humble to be a part of JCK and we are very happy and proud of the results we’ve achieved so far.”

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Endless Jewelry yellow, red and grey leather bracelets with charms

Before Pandora became a household name, it was relatively unknown. Nielsen’s role with the company back in 2003 was to distribute and brand, eventually leading him to secure the role of CEO of the European branch. “I had the license to sell Pandora in Europe and through that I started just selling myself,” he explains. “Many people nowadays think that Pandora was always there, but it came out of nothing and I can 100 per cent confirm that. But we put in a lot of hard work, had a lot of fun, and weren’t from the industry but came with a completely new approach to branding. It was ten fantastic rollercoaster years. We were unbelievably successful.” As for his new venture, Endless, Nielsen says that the success of the brand has relied heavily on the thought behind it and how it would be presented to the public. “I’m the concept guy and when it comes to Endless, I was the one who set the standards behind it,” he says. “What it is it that I want to promote to my customers? What kind of story do I want to bring to them with the colours? I had to find some kind of way to justify my comeback because when you give your customers the ultimate charm bracelets, you have to have a really good reason to come back again.” Today, Nielsen understands that the one factor that made Pandora extra special was the charms and the significance that each one held for the individual customer that would purchase them. And that’s exactly what he wanted to translate into Endless as well. This is why the idea behind Endless is simple, yet revolutionary. The new collection includes an array of multi-coloured leather bracelets that come in various lengths and can wrap around the wrist in a variety of ways. The fun part is “dressing” up your bracelet, and for this, Nielsen has delegated his designers to come up with many different charm designs, resulting in endless (pun intended) possibilities for just one bracelet. “What are we actually designing? We’re designing timeless beads,” says

Nielsen. “I want my new collection to bring more fashion into the jewellery industry. And since we opened the company in June of last year, I’ve had the same rollercoaster ride as I’ve had with Pandora.” For Nielsen, launching a new brand meant an extremely aggressive marketing campaign, which has since rolled out through lookbooks, television commercial, print advertising, logo conception and packaging. Since debuting in Europe, Endless has had a remarkably strong start and by November of 2013, Nielsen began preparing for the worldwide launch of the brand. JCK Las Vegas 2014 was the official unveiling of Endless in the U.S. and Canada and by the looks of it, things were not slowing down one bit for Nielsen and his team; over the past 14 months, the brand has reached almost 3,000 partners in 18 countries. “In Europe, I’m the strongest brand in the industry but here not yet and that’s fine with me,” he explains. “This is just the start because I see that we’re getting the exact same hype here as we are in Europe.” After leaving Pandora, Nielsen teamed up with a philosopher to write Inside Pandora, an autobiography that follows his journey through the world of Pandora and gives a glimpse into the mind of the successful entrepreneur. “Finishing this book helped me make the decision to re-enter the industry,” he says. “I wrote it just after I quit Pandora and it was a beautiful therapy and reflection of everything I did over the years.” Nielsen was 43 years of age after he left Pandora and he felt that he was too young and still had too many ideas to give up his journey as an entrepreneur. And as the source of wisdom behind Pandora’s success, he already had the tools and the knowledge to embark on a completely new venture. “I really understood why I did everything I did because you make a lot of mistakes on a journey like this,” he says. “But at the end, a lot of the decisions we made were right or else we wouldn't be here today.” CJ

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Lyndsay Goodfellow

Love, Virtually Social media drives design-centred Montréal business. by Sarah B. Hood

Designer Profile WHILE JEWELLERS across the country struggle to maintain healthy retail sales through traditional bricks-and-mortar outlets, one young Montréal designer has harnessed social media platforms to power a business that allows her to follow her passion – and realize annual sales over $150,000 annually – through her jewellery business, Love, Montréal. Lyndsay Goodfellow was a history student at Concordia University when she decided to take her love for jewellery making to a new level. Originally she sold her pieces occasionally and on a small scale, at local craft fairs and private jewellery parties, but soon she found her sales increasing to the point where she could launch an online store and place her work in boutiques in Ontario and Quebec. She put herself through university on the profits, and now supports herself entirely through the company. “I’ve always had a love affair with jewellery, as well as a flair for design. It was the only logical career path for me to pursue. I wanted people to wear the art I worked so hard to create,” Goodfellow says. Love, Montréal offers simple, classic pieces: pendant necklaces, bracelets and earrings made with Swarovski crystal, semiprecious stones, stainless steel, gold fill and vintage materials. They have an updated Victorian charm, typically featuring familiar old-fashioned motifs like hearts, roses, birds and keys; they retail from about $20 to $250, with custom prices starting at $50 and ranging as high as $1,000. “My pieces are timeless; they will always be wearable,” says Goodfellow. “I try to create jewellery that goes with everything, so women can get a lot of use out of one piece, and every piece is still made by hand. I also work hard to keep my prices accessible, so every girl can have their own one-of-a-kind piece.”

Summer Sparrow, $26

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Love, Montréal targets “women who love fashion and the art of putting an outfit together,” many of whom would fall into the 20-to-40 age bracket, “but I can see a trend of Baby Boomers becoming a huge part of my clientele, as they have the largest amount of disposable income,” she says. “At first I wanted to make only high-fashion pieces. In the past few years I've expanded to make a line for all tastes and budgets. I've also dived into the world of bridal jewellery, including bridesmaids’ gifts, and that is now over half my business.” Goodfellow’s target group falls squarely into the demographic that’s most web-savvy, and she has seen considerable success with her online presence. “Facebook has played a huge role in the growth of my business. It keeps me connected to my clients and allows me to keep everyone up to date with where I am and what I'm doing,” she says. She also uses the online craft sales site Etsy, where she appears under the vendor name of Love in Montréal. “Etsy has also played a pivotal role in the growth of the bridal jewelry part of my business. I noticed many brides look on Etsy for jewellery ideas, so logically I started to cater to that audience,” she notes. “It was a great decision that has changed the face of my business.” Other jewellers should take note: the 2014 version of Weddingbells’ Annual Reader Survey, which surveyed almost 1,100 Canadian brides and brides-tobe between January and March, finds that 86 per cent of brides will buy at least one wedding-related item online, 72 per cent say social media is an important influence on their wedding plans, 92 per cent used a social network in the past 30 days and 86 per cent plan to use the image collection and filing site Pinterest to help them plan their weddings. “I try to stay active on social media, and rather than just post meaningless updates, I engage my clients with contests, questions and behind-the-scenes snippets to keep them interested,” says Goodfellow, who estimates that about half her business now comes from online sales; most of the rest is generated through the 40 to 50 pop-up sales, trade shows and artisan events that she and her team attend annually. “Love, Montréal started out as a dream and came from nothing,” she says. “It seemed like an impossible task, but I always knew my creations would end up on women all over the world.” CJ

Front Page, $48

Rosy, $52

Love, Montréal Jewellery is available at select boutiques across Canada and online at LoveMontreal.net.

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CJ Expo Review

CJ Expos take on Toronto and Edmonton It was three days of jewellery, special events and schmoozing in two of Canada’s largest cities... CJ Expos may be over but jewellers across the country received an opportunity to meet with their industry counterparts, exchange business, and enjoy some of the events planned throughout the two shows in Toronto and Edmonton. The Toronto edition of the show, held at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre, opened with a reception at the Ritz-Carlton DEQ Terrace. Throughout the exhibit, visitors had a chance to sit in on a number of presentations by speakers that included David Sexton, Larry Johnson, and Ryan Holtz. In Edmonton, jewellers were treated to a full day of educational discussions and more presentations from several industry experts prior to the start of the show. Both shows also featured the ‘Attend and Win’ contest with several opportunities to win daily draw prizes and luxury trips. We hope to see you all in Toronto and Edmonton next year! CJ

1. Greg Lawlor and Berge Farra of Madani 2. Zaven Ghanimian of Simon G 3. Grace Ng, Mary Milan and Violetta Sikora of PAJ/ELLE Time & Jewelry

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4. Marketing Consultant Ryan Holtz presenting in Toronto 5. Michelle Parker and Lillian Jensen of Customgold Manufacturing Ltd. 6. Todd Wright of Wright’s Jewelry, Medicine Hat, AB (new president of CJG); Beth Saunders of Canadian Jewellery Group (CJG); Ernie Epp of Independent Jewellers, Winnipeg, MB (CJG director & ambassador)

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JA New York

In a New York City minute Set in beautiful New York City, the JA New York summer edition show was held at the regal Javits Convention Center where exhibitors saw a variety of designs from renowned jewellery brands like Gabriel & CO., EFFY, Overnight Mountings, Rina Limor, Endless Jewelry, Kabana, and more. This year’s summer show was rejuvenated with a new aesthetic and energy that assured both exhibitors and buyers would be leaving with an experience they would never forget. The large variety of the show was ensured through featuring a mixture of long-time exhibitors and designers, as well as those who were exhibiting at a JA New York show for the first time. The schedule included the Educational Conference with American Gem Trade Association CEP Doug Hucker leading a discussion about topics such as the issues within the coloured gemstone marketplace. The seminars included presentations from the Diamond Development Initiative and the Diamond Empowerment Fund. A feature for the summer JA show was the New Designer Gallery, where 10 jewellery makers that are new to exhibiting at a fine jewellery trade show were featured at the pavilion, competing for the Mort Abelson New Designer of the Year Award. Another prize-winning event was the buyer giveaway for retailers and wholesalers, where four buyers won $2,000 for any exhibitor featured. CJ

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M足足足

Feature

You’re hired

– the strategy of staffing Whether a single store or an international chain, the element that will define a retail business’ success is its staff. by Liza Marley

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WITH SUCH EXTENSIVE ACCESS TO PRODUCT INFORMATION, educated shoppers have the ability to compare pricing between different stores and online. The thing that gives a store the edge, and the sale, is the ability of the salesperson to connect with and convert the client – a professional that can manage the transaction and make the sale happen. Working in the jewellery business is different from a lot of other sales positions, explains Jane Stollar, senior recruitment consultant at Integral Retail Recruitment Inc. Being part of a large, national staffing agency, Stollar specializes in sales positions and recognizes jewellery sales as a specialized category. It’s a luxury product and it needs the right person to be able to sell it. “It’s very akin to cosmetics,” she explains, “cosmetics sales people also completely understand this is a long-term relationship with a client.” The right staff members have, what she calls “emotional intelligence.” Stollar explains, “It’s not about getting the ring, it’s about getting to know the client well enough to understand what they need.” While this purchase may be the ring, a good sales person will understand the customer well enough that they look forward to returning to buy the wedding band, the anniversary present, then the next piece and the next, becoming a loyal client.

While other industries may find that they like prospective employees to have experience in the industry, Stollar finds that’s not the case with jewellery sales. “Bring in good sales people with retail skills and teach them the jewellery business,” she recommends. “Product knowledge can be taught. Sales ability is key.” Sassan Parfour, vice president and one of the principals of the west coast chain Lugaro, echoes Stollar’s sentiments. “I prefer sales experience in any industry other than jewellery,” he says. While not a strict rule, he finds for the most part, that once someone has worked in jewellery retail, they have been molded and trained and he likes to have his staff molded and trained to his brand’s specifications and ideals. He usually invests three months into training. Instead of hiring based on jewellery experience, he looks for passion. “It’s luxury and you have to sell that passion – you need to be able to talk and pass on the passion to the client.” Parfour does his own hiring. Lugaro has a human resources staff member at the head office and allows each store’s manager to also engage in the interview process, but ultimately, he’s involved in the final hiring decisions. Parfour looks for people that will work well as team members. He likens each store’s staff to a family and wants a cohesive environment. Even with his staff earning commission, they help each other out – if one of them can’t close a sale, they’ll hand the client to another staff member who can. The respect for the business and colleagues within the store is strong enough for the staff to comfortably allow a coworker to seal the deal. “I always tell my staff that we’re family, we’re here to have fun and make money,” says Parfour. And with very little turnover and many long-term staff members, his recipe for a successful team is working. Paying them well also plays into their satisfaction. He keeps salaries above industry standard. Stollar says that salary is definitely part of the success package, with most businesses operating on a combination of base salary and commission and/or bonus structure. “Commission rewards their own sales while bonus encourages

the store to work as a group,” she says, explaining that the bonus comes from hitting targets. When the team works together to convert shoppers into buyers, they can profit through a bonus even if they don’t get the immediate commission. “Compensation rewards the behavior that management wants to see.” Another important element to hiring is covering the right demographic. “When I hire, I hire a team that represents the age and demographic of the clientele. The team should represent the age group of customers you have and want.” This is key in creating strong relationships between clientele and staff. It’s beneficial to have a staff member to whom the client strongly relates. A good sales person becomes the client’s go-to. It’s no longer the store or the brand, explains Stollar, it’s “Go see so-and-so, at this store.” The relationships that sales people make with clientele are part of that retention, explains Parfour. Once a staff member has built up a solid foundation of loyal customers returning to do business specifically with them, why would they want to move to another store? They want that repeat business and they want to develop and maintain that relationship and that trust. Stollar finds a lot of companies prefer to use an agency because finding and interviewing potential staff members can be extremely time consuming. It’s also more cost effective to partner with an agency rather than for a manager to take the time that could better be used on selling and maximizing store revenue. Parfour prefers to keep staffing in-house and finds that many of his prospective staff are also clientele. They like and understand the business and often apply. Stollar recommends constantly interviewing and always having a plan for replacing staff so that, should someone leave unexpectedly, there is no panic hiring. “You never know when one of your team members will have a change in life,” she explains. Ultimately, the right dynamic and the right environment make for a cohesive team. Great compensation doesn’t hurt either. And if everyone, as Parfour says, is “making money and having fun,” ultimately the store’s bottom line sees the biggest benefit! CJ

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Feature

Fighting retail shrink is a matter of common sense According to PwC’s 2012 Canadian Retail Security Survey conducted in conjunction with the Retail Council of Canada, Canadian retailers lose about $4 billion a year to shrink, a number that equates $10.8 million per shopping day. Overall, the average shrink rate was 1.04 per cent of net sales for all respondents. by Denise Deveau

THEFT IS SOMETHING ALL RETAILERS HAVE TO CONTEND WITH, both from an internal and external standpoint. And while shrinkage numbers haven’t changed significantly since 2008, there has been a sharp increase in the use of closed circuit TV/DVR recording systems, observation mirrors, 1-800 tip lines and alarms on merchandise. Those measures do appear to have had an effect on external theft (e.g. shoplifters), which has actually decreased to 43 percent from 65 per cent since 2008. Unfortunately, internal theft has gone the opposite direction, increasing from 19 per cent to 33 per cent. Beyond the technology and mirrors, there are some things that retailers can do to keep their eye on the ball. Part of that is staff training, in terms of briefing them on the consequences of internal theft and how they manage customer behavior in store. Here are some basics that can help: • Acknowledge customers when they come into your store - If an employee makes eye contact and says hello to a shopper, it shows you have noticed them. This can help to put potential shoplifters on their guard. • Don’t judge a book by its cover – A teenager with a bad attitude and tattoos might seem an obvious surveillance target, but thieves come in all

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shapes and sizes, from employees to business professionals. • Make it look like you’re doing something else while watching them – It’s easy to keep an eye on things while being engaged in other activities, such as stocking shelves or having a phone conversation. • Keep the conversation with co-workers to a minimum – If workers are talking with their cohorts when a store is busy, it’s easy for anyone to get away with taking an item or two without being noticed. • Avoid chatty customers – Sometimes when the store is busy, a person that buttonholes you with lots of questions may be there to distract you while their friend is taking merchandise. Be as polite and courteous as you need to be, but remember to not get too caught up in a lengthy discussion. • Keep things in view – Your layout should be optimized to ensure that everything is in plain view. Having your cash station at the back of the store for example opens up too many opportunities for people to steal sight unseen. • Keep your inventory in the picture – There are lots of tools you can use to track the flow of merchandise from your warehouse to the shop floor. If you can keep tabs on that movement, the chances of inventory theft in transit will be greatly reduced. In a worst case scenario, you can at least find out where the security breach is and possibly pin down the suspect. CJ

Alternative metal bands.

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Available in half size increments

Welcome to a world of social media

Marketing Magic

Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, YouTube… and jewellery? That’s right. Your customers are there. Shouldn’t you be too? by Ryan Holtz

MY NAME IS RYAN HOLTZ AND MARKETING IS IN MY DNA. I absolutely love all aspects of it, whether it’s traditional or new age. I am using this column to introduce myself and let you know what to expect from me in the next few issues. Being part of the recently held CJ Expos Edmonton and Toronto shows, as well as a speaker at the Connect For Success Education Day gave me the opportunity to sit down with a number of Canadian jewellers, designers and many of your industry comrades. I was absolutely shocked at how many questions I received on the topic of social media and how to utilize it in this new and growing medium at the retail level. Questions ranged from security issues all the way to taking selfies. And yes, selfie is now an official word in the English language. This column is going to focus on everything from digital marketing trends to social media How-To’s. It will offer the tools that will help you engage with past, current and future customers in a way that will establish a relationship designed to last over a long time. With a billion monthly active users on Facebook and two hundred million on Instagram, the question is not if you should be on social media, but rather when. When a customer walks into your store for a custom designed piece or an engagement ring, it’s very likely that they have already done their research.

The Internet gives customers the knowledge, resources and clarity about what they are looking for like never before. It’s not only important but also rather critical that jewellery retailers keep their finger on the pulse and remain in constant contact with customers. The jewellery market is a fun, creative and sexy place to work in. Social media gives you the opportunity to make the most of it. Research has shown that over 70 per cent of people between the ages of 25 and 45 take to social media immediately after their purchase. Think about it. When a customer comes in for a special piece that they would like to get custom designed for a loved one, they spend time telling you every significant detail that’s etched in their mind, then wait weeks for you to give them a call to tell them it’s ready for pick up! Anxiety, excitement and emotion are all part of the process! These are all important and relevant details when it comes to marketing and I am going to teach you how to use these to your advantage. If I can give you one piece of advice right now, it’s to not underestimate what’s happening in terms of communication. The Internet and social media specifically have people talking and sharing in an unprecedented fashion. The conversation is happening and wouldn’t you like to be apart of it? Grab a cloth and some Windex and clean those cases before you get ready for a whirlwind of digital marketing knowledge that will help your business. CJ

Ryan is an award-winning, internationally recognized marketer who specializes in automotive, real estate, and jewellery sectors. His areas of focus include marketing consulting, social media training, workshops, digital strategy and implementation, and professional video production. If you have any specific questions, feel free to reach out at info@ryanholtz.ca.

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Oh, Canada, our home and native… jewellery!

Retail Watch

Now that we’re once again faced with a doubledigit exchange rate, is it time to say “au revoir” to cross-border jewellery buying? by Todd Wasylyshyn

IN 2002, the ninth year of The North American Free Trade Agreement, I recall having a discussion with Larry Ulliac, then co-owner of the Alberta Jewellery Show. He and (the late, great) Russ Wickstrom were working on a plan to promote the Alberta show to retailers in the nearby states south of the 49th. You see, in January of that year, it took less than 62 U.S. pennies to buy a single loonie. At that point, Canadian suppliers had a fantastic case for taking advantage of free trade. Then in 2004, the Canadian dollar crawled above $0.80 against the U.S. dollar, subsequently rising to parity in 2007 and even topping-out over $1.10 in November of that year. With an ascending dollar, Canadian retailers increasingly visited U.S. trade shows and courted US suppliers into doing business in the Great White North. Once the U.S. economy hit the skids in the fall of 2008, their beleaguered suppliers desperately sought out more and more Canadian accounts. Except for the dark days of late 2008 and 2009, our dollar has been hovering around parity from 2007 until the fall of 2013. Compared with 10 years ago, you might say that the Canadian jewellery trade has been subject to a “U.S. invasion;” arguably leading to the loss of some manufacturers, and consolidation of others. Now that we’re once again faced with a double-digit exchange rate, is it time to say “au revoir” to cross-border jewellery buying? As with all categories of Canadian manufacturers and exporters, Canuck jewellery suppliers should benefit from a weakening dollar. When a jeweller chooses to buy Canadian, our dollar only affects the materials part of the wholesale costs. When buying from a U.S. or overseas supplier, the exchange rate is applied to the entire cost – labour, marketing costs and profit included. That supplier doesn’t make more profit from you. They get the same U.S.based price they have been getting from you all along. Those dollars (plus the premium to change currency) just get lost in the ethereal void of inter-

national monetary economics. Ultimately, these higher costs will be passed along to our consumers. Representing mostly Canadian suppliers, this author has a vested interest in pointing out the benefits of buying domestic. Besides that, I’m proudly Canadian, and I eagerly applaud a robust domestic wholesale trade. What could be nobler than selling a piece of jewellery art that has been conceived, created, sold and will be conveniently serviced by a proud Canadian company? With the quality of Canadian jewellery designers, and the economic benefits of buying domestic, retailers now have every incentive to create a new Canadian category as one of the brands you represent. For a moment, let’s forget about the economic benefits of buying domestic. “Mrs. Toddwaz” and I were in Kauai, Hawaii in January. There was a palpable pride in locally produced giftware, produce and a myriad of other items. The “buy local” vibe was everywhere. When I was on a jewellery buying trip in Italy a few years back, every restaurant we went to had “the best” regionally sourced wines, cheeses and meats. The passionate assertions of our patriotic servers became comical after a while, but it was inspiring to see them taking pride in local producers. Canadians need to learn how to zealously assert our home and native products! I think every retailer would agree that they want to entice their local audience to shop local, rather than diverting dollars to the big city, the Internet or across the border. As retailers learn to tell the story about their favourite Canadian designers, that patriotic angle will not only add value to each of those lines, it also models their own “buy local” habits. Given the current exchange rates, this is a perfect time to develop a strategy for building Canadian content in our stores. Practice these words, “Here, let me show you some creations from our amazing Canadian jewellery designers…” CJ

Todd has been an active member of the jewellery industry for over 20 years and currently reps for Customgold Manufacturing Ltd., Keith Jack, and Courtney Gold of Vancouver, and Lashbrook Designs of Utah. Check out his blog at toddwaz.blogspot.com.

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Prepping for the holidays Take the right steps ahead of time to ensure that your store will be in tiptop shape for the upcoming holiday season. by Larry Johnson

On Display THE SQUIRRELS IN THE YARD are still enjoying the long, lovely summer days and are weeks away from gathering their winter rations, so why should we be thinking about the upcoming holiday season and fussing about showcases right now? The reason, of course, is adequate preparation can be the key to survival when the situation becomes critical. Thinking about your holiday selection and presentation cannot be properly done (effectively and within budget) in the last minute. Successful jewellers use these last few months before the holiday rush to get the store in shape for the hopeful influx of clients. Here is a quick list of things to consider doing in your store during these slower days to be ready when the days get shorter.

1❱ Test different merchandising ideas This time of year is the ideal time to be testing different display strategies to determine which ones sells best. Consider reshuffling your merchandise to a different showcase depending on prevalent traffic patterns in your store. You’ll want to display your best selling gift ideas in a place of prominence for the season. Decide where and how, now. Test that location and see if the results support your decision. Do you have slow moving categories that never do well during the holidays? Consider taking them out of the case altogether to make more room in the store for things that sell. Do you have categories that sell some, but not a lot? Consider reducing that space to allow you to match the sales. Try out these changes for 30 day or so and track your results. If sales grow (over a comparable period), then stick to it. If not, try something else.

2❱ Get your displays up to par Put your staff to work. Get them to clean and repair any displays that do not show off your goods to their best advantage. A little time with some white glue maybe a suede brush can make your cases and the merchandise look much more attractive. If a display is really worn out, now is the time to toss it and replace it with a new one. If you sell one piece of merchandise as a result, it pays for itself. As you buy goods for holiday inventory, be sure you have (or can get) a display that shows it off properly.

3❱ Look at those floorboards If your last rewrapping of your floorboards was over three years ago, it’s time for a change. How can you be perceived as a fashion-conscious retailer in a store that has remained unchanged for years? At a cost of about $30 to $50 per showcase, you can give your store a fresh look for the season. (Send me a note for the best sources, for good colour/fabric suggestions or for instructions on how to rewrap your floorboards.)

4❱ Shop now for props for the store I am not a big fan of reusing the same old holiday trim in the store each year. Contrary to what you might think, people notice these things. Shop online for some distinctive props that will convey the holiday spirit to your clientele and reinforce your image as THE place to shop for gifts. I prefer to see no props inside the cases. Instead, decorate the store’s interior and leave the jewellery to be the only shiny attraction inside the showcases. Never put anything metallic or glittery inside the cases. It makes the jewellery look dull by comparison. Also, buy props at least as nice as your customers would have in their own home. Cheap props cheapen your image.

5❱ Decide what you want to sell Pre-select a few “Great Holiday Gift Ideas” you plan to offer this year. Be sure they are easily replaceable when sold, have a high-perceived value, can be sold at full margin, represent ideas for all categories in you store, and range from inexpensive to high prices. Make up small in-case signs identifying the categories and be sure your sales team knows them by heart. Come November, these are going to sell well and you want to be ready. Taking time to think about these improvements during the summer months can make a big difference in your store’s presentation this holiday, which as you know will influence sales. Apply some of that “intention” that I am always writing about and develop a merchandising plan for your holiday sales. Developing and implementing a sound plan with goals and expectations now, will help you avoid being stuck “out on a limb” with the squirrels this winter. CJ

Larry is the owner of Larry Johnson Consulting based in Colleyville, Texas. His firm works with independent jewellery retailers to help them increase profits by improving the presentation of their merchandise in their stores. His firm is affiliated with the EDGE Retail Academy. His website is www.LarryJohnsonConsulting.com. He can be reached at 817-980-2135 or Larry@LarryJohnsonConsulting.com.

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What is duty of care? The simple definition is an obligation to conform to a certain standard of conduct for the protection of another against an unreasonable risk of harm. by John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Crime Prevention

COULD THIS HAPPEN TO YOU? Several years ago, a major Canadian corporation (bank) was presented with a class action lawsuit brought on by its own employees. The suit alleged that the corporation failed in its duty of care by not providing adequate security for the staff of one of the corporate branches. This particular branch had been robbed several times and the staff had been traumatized by these robberies. A similar bank branch a few blocks away and owned by a different company had never been robbed. This location had an extensive training program for the staff and had installed a good video camera system. The victimized location had no cameras and the staff rarely received any direction on what to do in case of a robbery. After the corporation consulted with expensive experts in the security field and received advice from their legal department, the civil suit was settled out of court but the costs for the company ended being over $100,000. Jewellery store robberies tend to be much more violent than bank robberies. Takeover robberies involving smashing of showcases, masked individuals and guns, whether real or not, pointed at store staff, can be very traumatic. A jewellery store in a strip mall in Calgary had been victimized several times by criminals and on one occasion, a top salesperson had a gun pointed to her head. She was so shaken up that she resigned after the incident and she was an employee that sold close to a million dollars in product per year. It was a loss that no jeweller or jewellery industry owner would want to suffer. In May of this year, I attended a security seminar held at The Fairmont

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Royal York hotel. A civil lawyer spoke about the subject of duty of care and it was a very enlightening presentation. Earlier in the presentation, JVC’s Director of Loss Prevention had told the group about a recent rash of serious armed robberies that had taken place between the cities of Toronto and Hamilton and JVC had sent out alerts to all members in the area. The lawyer presented a hypothetical situation to the audience and suggested that if there were jewellers in that area that did not bother to receive JVC alerts and did not instruct their staff on how to protect themselves, they were failing to provide proper duty of care. This would also make them liable if an incident happened in the store and their employees were injured or traumatized by the event. I have spoken to some people in the jewellery and watch industry and they have suggested they do not get JVC alerts and instruct their staff on what to do if criminal activity should take place in their location because they do not want to scare their staff. These people are not swayed by the facts. I have heard comments that they have been in business for many years and nothing has ever happened in their location. On occasion, they have even gone into a tirade against police, the courts and even JVC. The position of JVC is clear and requires no defence. These types of occurrences can happen anywhere and at any time. We do not engage with the people that choose to be wilfully blind to what is going on around them but wish them good luck. CJ

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GEMSTONES NEVER CEASE TO FASCINATE ME. I remember being mesmerized as a child when I saw a quartz gem with a bubble floating around in liquid inside the otherwise inexpensive specimen. I recall finding the most interesting gems and minerals as a teenager on trips with my gem club in Australia. I remember being particularly taken aback at my first sight of garnet crystals during one of those trips. My first impression of garnets was that they came in a dark brownish red colour. It was only when I started to dig deeper that I discovered these stones covered a whole spectrum of colours; they were available in every colour except blue. At a point in my career came a time when I learned that depending on the source, garnets also come in shades that change depending on the lighting around them, including blue in daylight. While we are constantly making new discoveries when it comes to gems, there remains several stones that will always be classic and irreplaceable in our industry. The classic rich green demantoid garnet of the Ural Mountains in Russia remains the most precious variety of garnet, and while the supply tapered off for a long time, this stone is growing in demand once again. The best place to spot some of the most beautiful and rare demantoid

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garnets is at an auction. Auctions also serve as a great way to discover other types of classic source gems like Kashmir sapphire, Burma (Myanmar) ruby, Colombian emerald, and Sri Lanka sapphire. While these stones are very valuable, they tend to fetch prices that are higher than gems of equivalent appearance but originate from other sources. This factor makes new sources extremely vital to meet the demands for gems and to provide gemmologists with new challenges. There are massive developments in gem exploration in countries all over Africa and places like Vietnam. The key factor to note is that each source is distinct and the gems that are amassed form various places around the world have their own unique features. This consists of inclusions that continue to fascinate gemmologists and have the added benefit of assisting in identifying the origins of the gemstones. It’s absolutely necessary to constantly keep up with the growth and developments that are taking place in the gem world. While there are practical and scientific reasons for examining gems, it’s impossible to ignore the simple fact that the growth of sources and supply provides us with more reasons to be mesmerized by every gem we find. CJ

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2014-09-03 4:06 PM

Classics with a twist Style Council

THE LOOMING END OF SUMMER doesn’t necessarily mean an end to a fabulous wardrobe and jewellery! Helping your client transition from summer to fall is all about finding the right balance between the lightweight essence of the warm season and the colder days to come. Crochet or lace detailing adds the perfect twist to the classic black pencil skirt, which can be paired with an elegant yet simple blouse and a pair of timeless diamond earrings for a dash of sparkle. Allow your client to also experiment with mixing metals – have them try on a sterling silver and rose gold bracelet or a watch with a similar metal combination. It’s a recipe for creating the perfect statement look for any occasion.

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1. Topshop leather skirt, $154 2. Frederic Duclos ‘Delightning Drusy’ sterling silver and freshwater pearls with a lightning drusy stone, $370 3. Stuller 14k white and yellow gold ring with 1/3 ctw diamonds, $2,099 4. Topshop cream top, $79 5. Topshop red satchel with gold hardware, $149 6. Thomas Sabo ‘Glittering Rebellious Spike’ bracelet with charms, $1,429 7. Endless Jewelry brown leather bracelet with gold plated sterling silver charms 8. Thomas Sabo sterling silver earrings with Red Fish Karma Beads, $316 9. Topshop ripple skinny strap sandals, $104

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10. Topshop gold trousers, $130 11. Thomas Sabo sterling silver chain and ‘Glam & Soul’ pendant with white zirconia-pavé, blue synthetic corundum, $167.50 12. Topshop black top, $165 13. Nova Diamonds 18k white gold pierced Foliate Design earrings with 5.12ct diamonds, $13,320 14. Topshop black satchel with fur detail, $61 15. Citizen Ladies’ EcoDrive Silhouette Bangle watch, $250 16. Endless Jewelry blue leather bracelet with gold plated sterling silver charms 17. Topshop black loafer, $158

SEPTEMBER 2014

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97 2014-09-04 3:38 PM

Last Word

Mulberry masquerade by Maya Akbay

WHIMSICAL AND UNIQUE, the Mask Ring is yet another eye-catching design to come from Zorab Atelier de Creation. Featuring 39.35cts of amethyst quartz, 7.21cts of pink sapphires, 4.01cts of colourless diamonds, and 0.20cts of pink diamonds, the ring is intricately set with over 600 diamonds and stones in 18k gold. Inspired by the spirit of the Venetian Carnival masks, this one-of-akind piece captures the essence of an extravagant masquerade ball and perfectly embodies the 2014 Pantene Color of the Year – radiant orchid. CJ (Retails for $25,000)

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A GIFT

FOR YOU Receive a pair of ELLE Solitaire CZ earrings (a $79 value) with any ELLE purchase of $200* or more

*Before tax. While supplies last. Limit 1 per customer. Find an authorized dealer at ELLEJEWELRY.COM elle@paj.ca CJM_8_19_2014.indd 1

8/19/2014 3:44:58 PM