CJ Show Issue 2019 by Canadian Jeweller Magazine

DESIGNER PROFILE

42709013 | 920 YONGE STREET SUITE 608 TORONTO ONTARIO M4W 3C7 / $25

Bvlgari Designer Hajime Ando

RETAIL IS MORE THAN SELLING, IT’S A RELATIONSHIP BUILT ON TRUST AND RELIABILITY C

ITALY’S VICENZAORO SHOW to Present the Latest Trends in Jewellery Design

AG E N T M

T H E O F F I C I A L WATC H O F T H E M E N I N B L AC K

To know more about us, please visit www.cjjewelsinternational.com

UE 2017

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SHOW ISSUE 2019 The independent voice for the industry since 1879 JCK CANADIAN ISSUE 2017 The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine Canadian Jeweller Magazine ESTABLISHED 1879

ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol./ No. 14002/ No. Vol. 138

OLI V IER FELICIO C AY L A R A MEY

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / cayla@thergmgroup.net

/ corrina@thergmgroup.net C O R R IFELICIO N A M O S CFounder A Editorial andAssistant Thoughtsmith / olivier@canadianjeweller.com OLIVIER Art Director / scott@rivegauchemedia.com S C O T T J O R D A N MARCELO RAMOS Design & Art Director / marcelo@thergmgroup.net

Editorial Board

Graphic Designer / daniella@thergmgroup.net

DA N IELL A V IZ Z A R I Guru / karl@rivegauchemedia.com KARL DELGADILLO Web MATIAS REDONDO Marketing Coordinator / matias@thergmgroup.net CONTRIBUTORS

Christine Dwane, Breanne Forbes, Larry Johnson, John Lamont, Shawna Lee, Joelle Litt, Mark Lutley, Duncan Parker, Karen Simmons

Jean-Christophe Bedos Birks, President & CEO

CONTRIBUTORS Isabella Yan, Dave Gordon, Karen Durrie and Diana Berdichevsky SALES

Office Sales SUCCESS O L ISPECIALIST V I E R F E L I C IToronto O Advertising tel: 416-203-7900 x6107 // email: email: olivier@canadianjeweller.com justin@thergmgroup.net JUSTIN BARONE tel: 416.203.7900 x 6120 608, 920 Yonge Street, Toronto, ON M4W 3C7 EDITE M A RTINS

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6112 / email: edite@thergmgroup.net

SALES Montreal Office Customer Care Manager LUCY HOLDEN General H E A D O F F I C E 920 Yonge Street, Suite 610, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7 tel: 514.381.5196 / lucy@thergmgroup.net tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Haigo Derian L’Oro Jewellery Gino DeVuono Specialty Watch Resource Joe Goncalves Time Central

412E, 1255 Phillips Square, Montreal, QC H3B 3G1 MELANIE SETH

Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com

LUC Y HOLDEN

General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net

MONTREAL OFFICE

tel: 514-381-5196

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SUBSCRIPTION RATES Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any Canada — one year,or $50; two years, $85; threein years $120. United States are — one year, US$205. Foreign — oneand year not US$205 advertisement; any and all representations warranties made such advertising those of the advertiser of the publisher. The publisher is (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) plus applicable taxes. Single and copiesin — such $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall rate (Canada only, advertising. for six or more subscriptions) — of $17.50 subscription per year.be reproduced, in all or in part, without the not exceed the amount of the publisher’s Bulk charge for such No portion thisperpublication may express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under CHANGE OF ADDRESS illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, email: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392 be used by Canadian Jeweller and its af liates forcirculation@canadianjeweller.com editorial purposes in anytelephone: media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or send cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller 920 Yonge St., Suite 610,toToronto, ON. M4W 3C7 or the payment of compensation to, the your party providing such material. Please direct submissions the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 920 Yonge St., Ste. 608, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4. PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 920 Yonge St., Ste. 610, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4.

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Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc. Richard Rooney Bogart’s Jewellery Beth Saunders Canadian Jewellery Group Steve Turac Turac Luxury Group Inc.

Photo Credits: Oshawa Jewellers and Graziella Jewellers

“Our EXCLUSIVE SHOWCASE DESIGN APP let’s you see each display layout in real time.”

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Departments, Features & Columns

Contents 24 EDITOR’S LETTER We are always on top of innovation!

64 TRENDING Celebrate Coloured Stones with GIA’s Retailer Support Program

26 CONTRIBUTORS Isabella Yan and more

72 INDUSTRY NEWS Italy’s Vicenzaoro Show

28 TRADESHOWS A look at the upcoming events

76 DESIGNER PROFILE Introducing Hajime Ando

30 BE THE STYLIST Gorgeous and Elegant Bride

80 FEATURE Presidium’s quality testing

38 PRODUCT SHOWCASE Products from the hottest brands

82 SHOW GUIDE Canadian Jewellery Expos 2019

46 COVER STORY Kavar Jewellers

86 SPONSOR CONTENT Silver & Gold Soldering Process

52 BASEL WORLD REVIEW 2019 Punctual and in Time

88 NEWS CJ Jewels International

58 COMPANY PROFILE The “Sleeping Beauty”

94 LAST WORD Rose de France

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

CANADIAN SHOW ISSUE 2019

At GIA, gems endure even more pressure. Science and discovery underpins everything we do. Since 1931, the Gemological Institute of America® has been unearthing the truth about gems and creating industry standards. With unwavering commitment to accurate and unbiased methodologies, our dedicated research staff advances the knowledge the industry and consumers need to protect confidence in gems and jewelry. Our discoveries are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu

BENEFICIATION

EDUCATION

Ensuring the Public Trust Through Nonprofit Service Since 1931

INSTRUMENTS

LABORATORY

RESEARCH

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We are always on top of innovation! Olivier Felicio, Editor-in-Chief

Editor’s Letter

When was the last time you used or have even seen a yellow pages directory? Yes, you just had the same reaction as me when I was asked the same question recently. For some things, print remains a premium experience that you want to hold in your hand or carry with you onto a plane, of course, there are some things digital cannot replace; even though we are a print publication, at CJ we are always on top of innovation.

the world; but not only that, you will also be able to connect with them directly, make transactions and have merchandise delivered directly to your store. In general, the Canadian Jeweller Marketplace will aggregate products from a wide array of industry providers with more availability by vendors. Vendors will be able to have their product launches and announcements on the most market-relevant buyer guide. It’s going to be a game changer.

Recently we came to realize that continuing to do a printed version of the buyer guide was becoming cumbersome and outdated. By continuing to print we were not responding to the shifts in our industry and today’s customer behaviour, wants and needs. We must welcome new opportunities to be more responsive and progressive within our industry.

Every vendor will go through a pre-approved qualification process to ensure that we bring you reputable brands, wholesalers and service providers, yet your information is always going to be safe and secured, privacy is of outmost importance.

With that said, we would like to introduce you to the Canadian Jeweller marketplace. Here, you will find all relevant information on each vendor from all around

We are thrilled to be launching the Canadian Jeweller Marketplace and we are positive you are going to find it to be a welcome addition to your business.

Awards of Excellence 2019 Are you the best of the best? The competition has evolved! it is no longer possible to ignore the significance of social media on the jewellery industry. Now, the first round of the Excellence Awards will require you to post images with detailed descriptions of three products of your choice that you feel best to represent your brand. You must post the images on your Facebook or/and Instagram page, tag in the post Canadian Jeweller, and use #awardsofexcellece and #canadianjewellers as well as the hashtag that represents your category the best. The posts with the most likes and engagements will be nominated and entered for the second round of the competition, where Canadian Jeweller experts will professionally judge the nominated profiles and choose a winner.

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Please visit us

EDMONTON

MONTREAL

CJG

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EXPO PRESTIGE

Corona Salon August 10th-11th

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Contributors

Closing, Retiring Downsizing? Isabella Yan MA, A.G, Cert GA Sales & Marketing Executive

Not sure of the options?

Isabella is a London born gemologist, antique jewellery lover and writer based in Bangkok. She currently handles the PR, Sales & Marketing for the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences, a leading private gemological school and laboratory in Bangkok. Isabella is an Associate Editor for the Bangkok Gems & Jewellery magazine and has contributed publications in the ICA’s InColor Magazine & Jewellery Outlook, a UK based global online trade magazine.

Dave Gordon Dave’s writing work has appeared in more than 120 publications around the world, including Washington Times, National Post, Globe and Mail, BBC News, Baltimore Sun, Quartz, and Lifestyles.

We can help. Karen Durrie Karen Durrie is a freelance writer living in Calgary, Alberta. She has written on a variety of topics for the Calgary Herald, Globe and Mail, StarMetro Calgary, Avenue Calgarymagazine, and numerous custom publications, such as the Calgary Foundation’s Spur. A graduate of Mount Royal University’s journalism program, Karen has experience as a beat reporter, freelance journalist, editor and public relations communicator, and has authored a number of books for the children’s educational market.

Silverman’s Consultants have delivered sales strategy, direction, and solutions to jewellery stores of every size. Whether you’d like a transitional plan, retirement strategy, or a total liquidation, Silverman Consulting & Retail Services has the custom-made solution to create your successful sale event.

Give us a call to discuss your options.

Diana Berdichevsky For the past ten years I have been directing commercials for television and online media platforms, working with companies and organizations to help them define and refine their branding and messaging. At some point along my journey I began teaching media at Film Schools and the rewards have been immeasurable. I thrive on being part of the creative process and executing concepts and ideas. Feeling so lucky to know that my craft is my passion.

SILVERMAN CONSULTING & RETAIL SERVICES Saskatoon & Toronto | 1-888-955-1069 office@silvermancanada.com www. silvermancanada.com

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What’s On

Gear up for the year by staying informed on what shows are bound to be the biggest hits in 2019. Also, be sure to check out canadianjeweller.com for a full online calendar listing of the major shows for 2019.

AUGUST 6-10: METRO Show (Vancouver, BC) www.metroshow.ca

12-14: The Mode Accessories Show (Toronto, ON) www.mode-accessories.com

6-8: Edmonton Shoes & Accessories Buying Market Spring 2020 (Edmonton, AB) www.wcsa.ca/events

17-19: Canadian Jewellery Expo-Edmonton www.cjexpos.com

10-11: CJG Buying Group show (invitation only) (Mississauga, ON)

18-20: Toronto Shoe Show (Etobicoke, ON) www.torontoshoeshow.com

11-13: Ottawa Shoe Show (Ottawa, ON) www.worldfootwear.com/events

23-26: Vancouver Shoes & Accessories Buying Market Spring 2020 www.wcsa.ca/events

11-13: Canadian Jewellery Expo-Toronto (Mississauga, ON) www.cjexpos.com

23-23: Apparel Textile Sourcing Montreal www.appareltextilesourcing.com/montreal-matchmaking/

11-14: JA New York (Summer) (New York, NY) www.ja-newyork.com

24-26: MidWest Buy Mart www.midwestbuymart.com

11-14: Toronto Gift Fair Fall (Etobicoke, ON) www.cangift.org

25-27: Expo Prestige www.cbq.qc.ca

J.W. Histed Diamonds Ltd. Vancouver, B.C. rounds “full cut” tapered baguettes rounds “single cut”

pear oval marquise

half moon heart princess cushion grooved princess radiant straight baguettes trapezoid trillian asscher natural colour rose cuts emerald treated colour

JW Findings_H2.indd 1 CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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2015-08-25 1:38 PM

WWW.CARMENCO.COM â&#x20AC;¢ TOLL FREE 1-(888) 825-0527

Gorgeous Be The Stylist

Elegant and

Bride Fresh, fabulous and feminine, our large-scale lace blooms were made for epic romances.

WATTER BRIDES Calliope Corset We love a corset top: It looks great with a ball skirt, ivory suit...whatever you prefer to pair it with!

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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HALFPENNY LONDON Breeze Corset & Rihanna Skirt, Wedding Dress. 1

253 following 1. 14 Kt Yellow Gold Round Engagement Ring in 0.52 CTS T.w.t with 0.50 cts center. CAD$1786.40 2. 14 kt Rose Gold Round Diamond Engagement Ring in 1.32 CTS T.w.t with 1.00 cts center. CAD$4196.50 3. 14 Kt White Gold Round Engagement Ring in 0.55 CTS T.w.t with 0.50 cts center. CAD$1786.40

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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HALFPENNY LONDON Ladbroke Corset & Skirt, Wedding Dress.

1. Total Diamond Weight: 1.152 Cts | Center Stone Weight: 0.750 Cts. CAD$ 2905 2. 14 kt Rose Gold Round Diamond Engagement Ring in 2.612 CTS T.w.t with 1.00 cts center. CAD$ 8303.97

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WILLOWBY Capricorn Slip into this sweep-trained dress of ivory lace, flocked dots and illusion tulle. Buttoned up the back with pretty little pearls, it was made for happy endings. 1

1,017 following 1. Elegant and modern 14k palladium engagement ring set with a 0.53 ct SI 2 H round diamond over two bezel s set of 2.5 points of VS EF diamonds. Retail price $3999. 2. 14k palladium vintage inspired ring features a 0.95 carat SI 2 F round diamond set inside a lovely halo placed atop of a decorated shank with 0.75 carat VS diamonds. Retail price $13399. 3. Sparkling eternity band made in 18k palladium with 50 VS EF diamonds of 5 points weighing 1.25carats. Retail price $4999.

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WILLOWBY Hutton Embrace all the shades of life with our illusion tulle Hutton. Circled with a velvet ribbon at the waist, it’s the rainbow connection you’ve been searching for. If you’re feeling classic, it also comes in ivory.

1. Mesmerizing engagement ring in 18kt palladium with a 0.95 carat SI2 F center and garnish with a total of 1.75ct VS EF diamonds. A marvel of beauty that showcases the diamonds! Retail price $22999. 2. Stunning engagement ring made in 14K palladium perfectly set with 0.25ct SI pear shape diamond surrounded by a double halo of diamonds and pave band totaling 0.31carat VS diamonds. Retail price $329

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WILLOWBY Lennon Stripe it rich in band after band of ivory flowers laid over sheer tulle. One clever illusion bodice (and floaty net skirt) proves all you need is peace, love and lace.

1. Eternal flames ™Collection 14 karat Canadian Yellow Gold Diamond Necklace, 0.38ct all Canadian Diamonds. $1,499 2. Circle of Love™Collection 14 karat Canadian Rose Gold diamond ring, 0.54ct. T.w with a 0.50 ct Canadian Diamond centre. $2,799

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WATTER BRIDES Walcott Beaded Caress your curves with lace and sparkle! Our amazing Walcott is even better with beading from strap to hip.

1. Shelly Purdy® Collection 18 Karat pure white canadian gold diamond ring, 1.75ct. T.W, with a 1.28ct Canadian Diamond content. $5,299 2. Eternal Flames™Collection 14 Karat Canadian Rose Gold Diamond ring, 1.10ct. T.w, with 0.50ct Canadian Dimaond Centre. $3,749 3. Tides of Love™ Collection 18 Karat Pure White Canadian Gold Diamond ring, 1.14ct. T.W, with a 1.01ct Canadian Diamond centre. $6,249

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Product Showcase

GIA

Put your store on the map and be sure customers find your business by registering on GIAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Retailer Lookup. Through a city or postal code search, the Lookup allows customers to nd local establishments that offer GIA-graded stones or have GIA-trained staff. Sign up today through the Retailer Support Program website at retailer. www.GIA.edu

CJ Jewels Just as autumn turns nature into a flaring burst, this 18k rose gold ring might match your current autumn-colored mood just perfectly. Designed by CJ Jewels International (Canada) Inc, it features a mĂŠlange of fancy colored diamonds of various shapes forming a flower-inspired design, with round melee diamonds all around and with the split shank. www.cjjewelsinternational.com

Are you looking for a charming set of natural fancy color diamond pendant for special occasions? These handcrafted 18k multi color pastel diamond gold pendant by CJ Jewels International (Canada) Inc. feature a stunning pair of fancy yellow, pink, marquise shaped natura fancy color diamonds with 68 round white diamond accents providing the perfect amount of contrast, elegance and charm.

Claude Bernard Dress Code TWO-HANDS CalibreClaude Bernard 20 - Functions Display of hours, minutes Case Stainless steel 316L with pink PVD coating - Diameter 34mm Dial White mother of pearl - Crystal Anti-reflective and scratch-resis-tant sapphire crystal - Strap Pink PVD coating mesh bracelet $425.00 www.claudebernard.ch

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Product Showcase

Cédille Cedille is a fine fashion jewelry brand design by Carmen Aoun. She has combined the passion and studies of gemology and jewelry design with the charm and inspiration of nature, architecture, geometry and modern art, to give life to Cédille, her collection of jewels launched in 2010. Cédille collections are made exclusively of diamonds, pearls, precious stones, and 18ct gold in white, yellow and pink colors. These collections are marked by their craftsmanship and unique pieces, as well as being very refined and extremely well finished with plenty of elegance. www.cedilleparis.com

Edox Sharkman III The Edox Sharkman is the ultimate in dive watch engineering performance and design, also a master of the fantastic world beneath the waves. Water resistant up to 1000m / 100 ATM, protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a ceramic bezel, the Sharkman is the perfect timekeeping tool for exploring the shark’s domain and – like the engrave case back message – to “Face Your Fears”. $2.195 Suggested Retail Price www.edox.ch

Royal Bali The Royal Bali Collection is inspired by intricacies of traditional Balinese design. Originally commissioned by the Royal Courts of Bali and noble houses of Sukawati and Ubud, the revered metalsmiths of Bali created lavish displays of meticulously worked ornaments. Every jewel of our Royal Bali Collection represents this fine tradition of time-honored craftsmanship. www.samuelb.com

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SS Multi Gemstone Hamsa Pendant 56115P.SLM - MSRP: $279.00

SS/18K Amethyst Center W/ Blue Topaz Accents CUFF - 52215BA.ABT - MSRP: $1,999.00

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Cover Story

BY ROB SHAW

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

CANADIAN SHOW ISSUE 2019

A successful jewellery business is often operated by a variety of staff members that work together as a family. This is exactly how Kavar Jewellers in Brampton, Ontario have been operating since 1985. Kavar Jewellers is known for selling unique, custom designed jewellery while preserving their passion for customer satisfaction. As such, Kavar Jewellers has developed a business model and reputation that has instilled trust in their expertise, while delivering beautiful and unique jewellery reflecting finely crafted artistry.

Abraham Konialian owns one of the four locations of the Kavar Jewellers chain. His father and two uncles own the remaining three locations. The stores are located in Newmarket, Brampton, Hamilton and St. Catharines Ontario. Established in 1985, Kavar Jewellers has been in business for nearly thirty-five years. The Konialian family has created a unique retail environment where each location reflects each owners’ individuality while preserving the family’s collective traditions. Although each location shares the same name, the merchandise in each store reflects the individual style of each family member’s aesthetic, offering customers access to a large variety of styles, unique designs and price ranges. Early on, the Konialian family realized that the jewellery business was led by manufacturers and suppliers. For some of the brothers, moving from fabrication to retail enabled them to combine both jewellery worlds and to execute a unique retail approach. “There is an art to fabricating a customer’s vision” Abraham states. “Creating exactly what they see in their mind is an absolute strength of ours.” This large gap between customer wants and expectations versus what was available on the marketplace allowed the family to not only meet a demand, but to innovate and envision a line of jewellery. They exceeded customer expectations with variety, creativity and unique designs, offering choices that were traditionally not accessible to the wider public. The Konialians noticed that many consumer-based retail business models were evolving rapidly, dictated by an ever-changing customer base and increasing influence of technology; to them this meant that the jewellery business needed to catch up as well. The Konialians understand that the technology evolution has created a base of consumers who expect information and products immediately, yet do not want to sacrifice on quality and value. The Konialians were ready to meet these nuanced requirements. A common example is the purchase of an engagement ring. For many people, an engagement ring is often times the very first diamond purchase in ones life. It’s an intimidating decision that may cause some anxiety. Am I making the right decision? Is the quality just right? Is the cut the best possible choice for me? No doubt, purchasing an engagement ring is a large investment for someone they deeply love and want to please.

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Understanding the sensitivity that customers face when making such an important life purchase, Kavar Jewellers set out to equip customers with as much detailed information as possible to help make an informed decision about a particular diamond and design. Many customers welcome the education they get at Kavar stores. For instance, when to choose an earth-mined diamond versus a lab grown diamond. With lab-grown diamonds being of slightly less cost, a consumer has the option to purchase a larger diamond, creating a striking setting – while earth-mined diamonds of similar carat weight will be more costly. “Discussing these options and details with the customer leaves them feeling more cared for and supported” Konialian states. In addition, Kavar Jewellers provides a warm, comfortable environment with a “no pressure” sales consultation, allowing customers to take time with their choices and to learn about a particular style, cut or design; feeling every comfort and assurance in their final decisions. The Kavar brand has found its success in respecting an individualized customer experience that is sensitive to the stress and emotions associated with making such an important life purchase. In addition, Kavar offers customers the option to working with artisans who can design an innovative style and made to order pieces specific to a particular customer’s tastes– delivered in about two to four weeks. The speedy service means that most customers can get something special and unique in time for holidays or special occasions. This excites customers who are looking for a personalized touch just before a popular holiday or occasion. Male customers, in particular, appreciate that option, Konialian notes with a smile, “who are famous for leaving their gift-buying to the last minute”.

Customer experience: We have so many fantastic customer experiences here. Always accommodating our customers’ needs is a strength here. I had a customer planning a surprise trip to Jamaica with his fiancee to be and decided he didn’t want an engagement ring off the shelf. As he was very particular about the clarity, colour, size and cut, I happened to have the exact diamond he was looking for (VVS2 H 1.20 Cushion Canadian Diamond). He wanted the mount to have a 1.80 MM shank with a french pave setting, and a halo set exactly at 7mm high off the finger, similar to a mount I had in stock. Different enough to have to make a new ring. The diamond he selected was on Monday evening as was leaving for Jamaica Friday morning. Therefore our new friend had to pick up his ring Thursday night which left us with three days to make the ring from scratch. Thanks to our team, we were able to start the 3D print on Monday at 11:00 pm then same day casting on Tuesday, setting and finishing on Wednesday, center stone placement and appraisal on Thursday - back to the store for the customer to pick it up on Thursday evening. As we checked again with him a week later, she said yes! - Hard not to with a ring like that I may add.

Kavar Jewellery provides a warm, comfortable environment with a “no pressure” sales consultation. 48

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Kavar is so well regarded that they started offering artisan training for jewellery professionals. Konialian credits the success and longevity to several factors(...)

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The Kavar stores have noticed more in-store customers and improved sales in tandem with the holiday seasons, “What’s exciting for us during the busy season is the increase in customer engagement. We source more loose diamonds in order to provide options; we’re always innovating new ring styles and designs”, Konialian relates. From his passion, it’s obvious that he loves the family business and that seeing customers leave satisfied from their buying experience is his mission and passion. Having a sales team that gets along like a family is one of the reasons behind the Brampton store’s success. It’s a team that enjoys working side-by-side, makes a warm and welcoming environment for the customers and the positive environment that sales team contributes makes customers feel welcome, at ease and in no way pressured into making a purchase. Creating a positive experience for customers is the best way to get them to refer us to their friends and family. Many of our customers come in saying they were recommended by a friend. Word of mouth shows the warm impact our staff leaves on our clients. Konialian credits their high rate of new customers to positive referrals . When a customer leaves the store feeling good about a purchase they want to share that feeling with their friends and family. The sales staff work hard at educating their customers on what they are buying. If the customer does not leave the store with an item, they leave with a little bit more knowledge. Established in the mid-1980s, Kavar Brampton’s long history in the industry has earned them respect from their peers, suppliers and long-time customers. Kavar is so well regarded, that they started offering manufacturing services for local

“Today, everyone is looking for that unique jewellery to remind them of that special moment in their life.” small businesses in the trade. “Some jewellery retail peers prefer our services, due to the detail and no-hassle arrangement.” Konialian credits their success and longevity to several factors. The Kavar brand recognizes that the industry is constantly evolving and they have been able to innovate and move with the times, keeping up with trends and providing many variations and styles for their wide customer base. At the end of the day, Kavar’s entire team is commited to instilling trust and reliability in their customers and it is this foundation that has allowed them to grow their brand. To remain relevent in an ever changing marketplace you must stay on top of the hottest trends. “Today, everyone is looking for that unique look. Everyone wants that one piece of jewellery to remind them of that special moment in their life.” Konialian states. It is the commitment to satisfaction that our staff provides our customers, that we feel will assure our place of relevance in each community we have grown to be part of. This relevance is what will move us forward in years to come.

Store Size: 2000 Square Feet (Front Showroom) 200 Square Feet: (Back Room/Workshop) Employee Size: 8 Top Five Brands: PANDORA, RADO, MOVADO, VALOUR LAB GROWN DIAMONDS and CADORYN.

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BaselWorld Review 2019

PUNCTUAL AND IN

TIME Baselworld sets the tone for all the new trends in the watch industry for the year. As the the world’s biggest watch and jewellery fair for more than 100 years, this luxurious Swiss fair dedicated to the upscale wrist accessory is one of the most important indicators of what’s happening in the world of watchmaking. Canadian Jeweller Magazine has selected some of our favourite watches from Baselworld for the various life events of our readers.

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JACOB & CO TOURBILLON BAGUETTE Jacob Arabo, the founder of Jacob & Co. masterfully blends the intricate worlds of high jewelry and high watchmaking in the Astronomia Flawless. The transparency of the case allows the movement of the gravitational triple axis tourbillon to be clearly visible from multiple angles. The addition of a flawless 2.88 ct. diamond on top of the amazing Astronomia movement will definitely turn heads. PRICE ON REQUEST

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HUBLOT BIG BANG SANG BLEU II More ambitious than the Big Bang Sang Bleu launched in 2016, the new Big Bang Sang Bleu II passionately channels the design skills of world famous tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi. A case with more finely-chiselled lines, conveyed in three dimensions. An expression of the passage of time, the hands -two elongated diamonds and an arrow -are stylised fragments of tattoos, set above a hypnotic chronographic movement. $ 47,300

to be on time ARTYA SON OF EARTH COSMOS Die innovative Schweizer Marke Artya um Gründer Yvan Arpa und seine Frau und Designerin Dominique ArpaCirpka fertigt vor allem expressive Einzelstücke. Zum zehnjährigen Markenjubiläum kommen in der Linie Son of Earth jetzt neun Modelle mit dem Beinamen “Cosmos”. Die Edelstahluhren verfügen über eine Stahllünette, in die wortwörtlich der Blitz eingeschlagen ist. $ 10,900

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WATCH BANDS

• BEST SELECTION • WHOLESALE PRICES • NO MINIMUMS • FREE SHIPPING

StrapsCo Distribution Inc. 110 Ronald Drive Montreal West, QC H4X 1M8

Wholesale: www.StrapsCo.net Retail: www.StrapsCo.com

ORIS ORIS ARTIX GT SKELETON Oris produced its first motor sport watch in 1970 and continues its driving watch tradition with the launch of the Artix GT Skeleton. The watch has an open dial exposing the inner workings of its Swiss Made automatic mechanical movement, like the hood of a car being lifted to reveal an engine bay. $ 2,600.00

riding around BREITLING BENTLEY CENTENARY LIMITED EDITION The Breitling Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition in 18k red gold is presented on a brown leather strap whose pattern and stitching were inspired by the seats in a Bentley. The stainless-steel version will be available on the brown Bentley-inspired leather strap as well or on a stainless-steel bracelet. The 18k red gold version is engraved with a “ONE OF 200” inscription, while the stainless-steel version is inscribed “ONE OF 1000”, confirmation of the edition sizes for the watches $ 9,950

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ARTYA 250 GTO BLACK The hub of the rim on the dial side goes right through the watch... including the sapphire crystal! A world first: the time can only be seen when the wheel on the dial side is spun at full speed. An exceptional delicate work combining jewelry, watchmaking and inventiveness was needed to make it look and turn like this iconic historical Rim. $ 16’900

GUCCI GUCCI GRIP Gucci is introducing a brandnew unisex watch line called Grip. The collection comprises four new quartz timepieces. Each one features a rounded square case with three windows, in which three white rotating disks indicate the hour, minute, and date respectively. One edition brings together a yellow gold PVD case and yellow gold PVD bracelet, both engraved with Gucci’s signature Interlocking G logo. NOT RELEASED YET

traveling around

MAURICE LACROIX AIKON AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH 44MM Trained at the worldrenowned school of Tapiola in Finland Kari Voutilainen stayed true the definition of hand made watchmaking. The precision of their inhouse designed movement, main plate, and bridges manufactured. $ 2,990.00

PATEK 5231J WORLD TIME Launched in the 1930s, Patek Philippe’s famous World Time watch displays the time simultaneously and continuously in all 24 time zones. This cult watch beloved of seasoned travelers and collectors is particularly renowned for its men’s models featuring a dial center adorned with a planisphere in cloisonné enamel. The caliber 240 HU self-winding movement with off-center minirotor in 22K gold may be admired in all its impeccable detail through the sapphirecrystal case back. $ 65,000

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Company Profile

The

‘SLEEPING BEAUTY’

of the Gemstone World CALGARY-BASED KORITE INTERNATIONAL, THE GLOBAL LEADER IN AMMOLITE PRODUCTION. by Karen Rudolph Durrie

he pendant at her neck glows like a burst of rainbow fire. Its blazing colours resemble the expressive handiwork of an artist. The gemstone in it – one of the rarest in the world – has been mined, cleaned, cut, polished, designed and set, all by hand.

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It’s taken literally millions of years and the work of many dedicated individuals to bring this uniquely Canadian work of art to market. It’s available today thanks to the experts at Korite International, a Calgary-based company that created the ammolite industry 40 years ago.

who lobbied to have ammolite declared an official gem. He began showing the vibrantly coloured stone to shops in Banff and Jasper, and the souvenir market quickly developed a taste for it. Soon, the market seemed insatiable. It was apparent that if the company wanted to grow, it needed to mine.

The Korite pendant is made from ammolite, an organic gemstone that was given official gemstone status by the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) Coloured Stone Commission in 1981. Its beautiful face is the result of an amazing voyage through time.

When mining began in 1981, it wasn’t exactly smooth sailing. Once the Alberta government realized the possibilities for ammolite, some policies changed. “When we started, the government said ‘wait a minute, this looks like the next gold rush,’ and took ownership of the mineral rights,” Trudel says. Korite now

The journey began during the Cretaceous period, about 71 million years ago, in the waters of the Bearpaw Sea that once covered parts of southern Alberta. Each piece of ammolite began life as a squid-like creature called an ammonite. Ammonites were prolific in those prehistoric waters, and as the sea retreated, their empty shells were embedded in what’s called the Bearpaw Formation. The shells, ranging in size from tiny up to more than three feet in diameter, were transformed into brilliant ammolite thanks to the right combination of minerals, temperature, pressure and time. Korite mines ammolite in the Bearpaw Formation, and is the world’s largest producer of ammolite gemstones and ammonites. Southern Alberta ammolite is the most uniquely coloured anywhere, and the only variety that has official gemstone status. Ammolite is one of only two organic gemstones in the world – the other is the pearl. The Discovery Channel, which produced a documentary on ammolite called it the “sleeping beauty of the gem world.” Though ammolite is just hitting its stride as the world’s newest official gemstone, it has long been revered in different cultural legends. Ammolite is found in Blackfoot Nation medicine bundles, where it’s known as “iniskim,” the sacred buffalo stone. The legend has a few versions, but one tells of a freezing winter when buffalo were scarce and the Blackfoot people were starving. A woman heard singing in the trees and followed it to find a piece of ammonite fossil resting on buffalo hair. The rounded stone resembled a sleeping buffalo. The stone spoke to her and told her to take it back to her camp and pray for the buffalo to return. The next morning, a herd of buffalo appeared on the plains. Since then, the Blackfoot have used ammolite for good fortune in hunting, and for use in healing and ceremonies.

DIGGING INTO HISTORY Korite’s mine is located a short distance from Lethbridge, just beyond flat-topped sweetgrass prairie dotted with peaceful farmland. Adjacent to the mining site is the Blood Reserve, home to the Kainai Nation, with which Korite has worked over the years. The prairie’s edges give way to impressively carved sandstone escarpments and rolling hills as the terrain drops into the meandering St. Mary’s River valley. René Trudel, Korite’s wiry head of field operations, stands on a windy ridge overlooking the company’s humming mining operation, remembering his first fossil-hunting excursions with cousin Pierre Paré, one of Korite’s founders. “We found a notch on the bank. I saw a bright blue ammonite fossil and I had no idea what it was or what I was doing, but we hauled it in backpacks uphill,” Trudel says. Paré and his friend, the late René Vandevelde, had decided to turn their interest in paleontology into a business. They purchased a young company from the Kormos family, keeping the name alive by calling it Korite. It was Vandevelde

IT’S TAKEN LITERALLY MILLIONS OF YEARS AND THE WORK OF MANY DEDICATED INDIVIDUALS TO BRING THIS UNIQUELY CANADIAN WORK OF ART TO MARKET. has a renewable lease agreement with the province on the lands it mines. Almost four decades later, Trudel is still working the field, having traded hand digging and canvas backpacks for overseeing excavators and workers on land near the St. Mary’s River. Like mechanical dinosaurs, the excavators claw delicately at layers of soft black shale, sandstone and bentonite – strata of waxy volcanic soil that indicate fossil riches are likely near. Spotters work alongside each machine, checking each new dig and the pile of scooped rock for flashes of colour and the telltale curved shapes of ammonite fossils. If these are spotted, excavation is halted and the rock is sorted through by hand. Fragments, flakes, flattened whole shells, and the most prized pieces of all – whole, three-dimensional ammonite shells that filled with sediment after landing on the sea bottom – are pulled out, bagged and set aside in aluminum buckets. Finding even small amounts of this gemstone is painstaking and expensive work. The mine’s machines use 7,000 litres of fuel every two weeks. Some days, the labour barely fills a bucket. But other days, the miners strike paydirt. One of Trudel’s most memorable days with Korite occurred when a group of jewellers visited the mine. “As everyone was watching, a big chunk of shale slid out of the shovel and three absolutely perfect, side-by-side ammonites were within it, all whole with no cracks,” he says. But in an average year, Korite only mines enough top-quality ammolite to produce about one cup per day of top-quality gems. Korite takes pride in its environmental stewardship that leaves the mined areas looking like the company was never even there. After mining activity is done, each layer of the land is replaced in order. The area is reclaimed to its natural topography and seeded with native grasses. To date, Korite has mined about 45 acres of land, averaging about two to three acres per year.

TAGGING TREASURES From the mine, the buckets of ammonite fossils, fragments and flakes go to a curious place: an unassuming patch of land with a farmhouse, barn and warehouse, where Gary Nilsson, Trudel’s operations assistant, sorts through each day’s finds. Gary puzzles pieces together categorizes ammolite and stabilizes it with a proprietary substance before packing it into barrels. Nilsson, a soft-spoken, mustachioed man, has been with the company for 24 years. This is a common theme at Korite – people stick around.

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Nilsson recalls an exciting day at the mine a few years back. “We found a juvenile hadrosaur curled along the river, and it had shark’s teeth along its spine,” he says. The land-dwelling duckbill was likely swept out to sea, where it became a snack. Korite’s mining has unearthed a number of dinosaur fossils over the years, and the second that a specimen is spotted, mining ceases. The world famous Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology is called in, and archaeologists head to the site to recover the remains. Korite assists in whatever way possible, on its own dime, so that operations can resume quickly. In a market where not everyone plays by the rules, Korite adheres strictly to all the regulations around the disposition of fossils, including ammonites. “We’re honest people dealing the right way, and we mine in a way that makes sense. This business can give rise to unethical practices like poaching and illegal trafficking. Our ammonites are ethically mined, abiding by all Canadian laws and regulations,” says Martin Bunting, Korite’s President and CEO. Bunting is a staid man with a wry sparkle in his eye, who took on leadership of the company three years ago as part of a new ownership group.

NILSSON RECALLS AN EXCITING DAY AT THE MINE A FEW YEARS BACK. “WE FOUND A JUVENILE HADROSAUR CURLED ALONG THE RIVER, AND IT HAD SHARK’S TEETH ALONG ITS SPINE.” The Historical Resources Act, passed in 1978, declares all fossils public property, and requires every fossil to be numbered, catalogued and photographed for inspection before being released back to the finder. Anything extraordinary or of scientific interest may go to the Tyrrell Museum for a closer look. “The Korite mine and the museum maintain a very positive relationship, which has led to the recovery of a number of significant fossils,” museum executive director Andrew Neuman told the Canadian Press in an article about the discovery of a mososaur at the mine. The company works with both the Tyrrell and the Department of Canadian Heritage to advance consumer awareness of ammolite’s Canadian history. “I think ammolite is more than a Canadian treasure; it’s a world treasure,” says Roy Kormos, one of the people who formed Canadian Korite Gems, which later changed hands and became Korite International. Because of its excellent reputation with Canadian Heritage, Korite has a general Cultural Property Export Permit that allows it to ship its products immediately, without having to submit cumbersome paperwork that can take weeks to be processed. “Because that permit has been granted to us, we could ship 500 pounds of rough (ammolite) today,” says Amarjeet Grewal, Korite’s executive vice-president. “That integrity is a big deal to me, and it’s a big deal to Korite.”

RESPECTFUL ENVIRONMENT Grewal sits in her office, long dark hair framing her friendly face, impeccable clothing accented by jewelry – naturally, some is Korite ammolite in beautiful hues. She is fiercely proud and protective of Korite’s reputation and its respectful

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working environment. She started at Korite 28 years ago as a junior accountant, and is now part owner. Over the years, she has done gemstone grading and inventory management, eventually creating her own position, overseeing production, working in sales and marketing and heading up operations and merchandising. She travels extensively to tap new markets for the product. Like Grewal, employees at Korite are incredibly engaged and loyal. There is very little turnover. There are stonecutters, a goldsmith and fossil production technicians who have put in more than 20 years at the company, too. All have their own unique histories and stories about Korite. John Issa, a 20-year employee, is the manager of Korite’s fossil division, Canada Fossils Ltd., where preserved ammonites are produced and sold. The company has donated fossils to more than 20 museums around the world, including the American Museum of Natural History in New York City and the Canadian Museum of Nature in Ottawa. Issa is an encyclopedia on the history of the company, the mine’s geology and the mineral properties of ammonites, and speaks of it all with enthusiasm. He’s represented Korite all over the world and witnessed the price of ammolite increase as the world has sat up and taken notice of the gemstone. “If you look at a black opal and a high-grade piece of ammolite, ammolite wins any day of the week. But the black opal is 10 times more expensive. Why? Because it’s been around 10 times as long. I see ammolite being worth as much as the Australian opal, and I think the colour is far superior, but it’s a gemstone in its infancy,” Issa says. At Korite’s headquarters, one meets dedicated people who have invested many years of their lives working together to bring ammolite’s beauty to the world.

KORITE HQ, HALL OF WONDERS Korite’s corporate headquarters are part office, part production facility, and part museum. The hallways are hung with framed ammonite fossils, paintings depicting prehistoric times and Alberta landscapes, and dinosaur fossils. The front wholesale showroom is a feast for the eyes, filled with radiant ammonite fossils of every imaginable size, including one specimen displaying the full-colour spectrum of ammolite, with a dazzling amount of the more rare purples and blues. It’s worth $100,000 retail. There is a replica T-rex head, polished mammoth tusks on stands, art made from ammolite, and glass-case displays of ammonite jewelry to match every possible taste. Issa lays some of it out and discusses the work of different designers. He shows off Korite’s signature piece, the stunning and iconic pear-shaped Solara pendant by Calgary designer Llyn Strelau. The Solara has a large ammolite gemstone surrounded by delicate gold wires that are set with several diamonds. Close by, inhouse artisans work in an enclosed studio crafting ammolite pieces. In another area, preparation is underway on rough ammonite fossils, as producers spend hours carefully chipping away matrix rock with air tools to reveal the precious ammolite beneath. There is no factory feel here. Even with all the technological advances in the world, the rarest gemstone isn’t something you leave to machines to mass-produce. From sorting by hand at the mine to old-world craftsmanship in-house, Korite’s ammolite is about the human touch.

HANDCRAFTED FROM THE HEART: Ammolite jewelry 101 “You don’t pick the ammolite; it picks you,” Issa says as he stands in the cutting room, where jewellers work polishing and shaping pieces of ammolite one

ELEGANT

TREASURES Grand Versailles Pendant

Solara Pendant

Malibu Ring

Taylor Ring Taylor Earrings

Carolyn Bracelet

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stone of the millennium,” believing it to have positive energetic properties for the wearer and an ability to provide balance to environments such as home and office. Feng shui is The Chinese art of spatial arrangement for directing and harmonizing the flow of life energy is known as ch’i. Frank Fischer, a German Feng Shui master visited the Korite mine and offices and conducted a special ceremony intended to create the best ch’i for the company’s environment. Fischer deliberated over an array of ammonite fossils, tapping on each with a metal implement and choosing the one he felt had the most energy. Each employee also selected a piece of ammolite to hold during the ceremony. That ammonite fossil and those pieces are now held in a special display on the company’s second floor, placed using the principles of feng shui. “That became the heart of the office,” Bunting says.

A GIRL’S OTHER BEST FRIEND

at a time, by hand, manipulating them against spinning diamond wheels. They handset the gems into pendants, earrings, rings, watch faces and other pieces. Each stone has unique qualities, colours, brilliance and patterns, and can look very different depending on the light. It can even take on unique hues when worn by different people. Ammolite is rated on a scale. AAA (Exquisite), displaying three or more brilliant colours represent only the top three percent of production. AA (Extra Fine), has slightly lower brilliance at a high grade; A (Fine), has two distinct colours and some fine lines present, and Standard has one or more colours, primarily green or red, with varying colour, pattern and brilliance. As a gemstone, ammolite consists of hundreds of thin, iridescent layers composed mostly of the mineral aragonite. Whereas other gems’ hues come from the absorption of certain colours, the colour of ammolite comes from refraction of light. Each thin aragonite platelet acts like a tiny prism. Ammolite is also quite soft – a 3.5 to 4.5 rating on the Mohs scale used to classify the hardness of minerals. Once it is capped with a protective layer, it is brought up to a 7.5 to 8 Mohs rating. For comparison, diamond is rated at 10. Korite has developed its own proprietary techniques to produce the highest-quality gemstone jewelry, and offers an unconditional lifetime guarantee on every piece of ammolite.

GROWING Since the shift in ownership three years ago, Korite has taken an ambitious turn to focus on growth. As the largest miner of ammolite in the world, controlling 90 percent of the world’s ammolite resources, it only made sense to strengthen the company’s leadership and move aggressively into expanding its markets. That included increasing its presence in the United States, where ammolite is extremely desirable but hard to find. “It would be nice to become the ‘De Beers of Ammolite’,” says Bunting, referring to the company synonymous with the finest diamonds. One of the largest markets for Korite is Asia, which has responded to ammolite with enthusiasm for its colour and energy. Wilson Yip, one of Korite’s longtime managers, is credited with the growth of the Asian market – and with ammolite getting the attention of feng shui practitioners. Feng shui master Edward Kui Ming Li declared ammolite the “most influential

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The ultimate vision and goal for Korite, Grewal says, is for consumers to look at ammolite in the same way they do the other precious gemstones. “Every woman owns or knows about diamonds, rubies and sapphires. If they own those, then they want ammolite. It’s beautiful, affordable, and luxurious, and it has an ‘excuse me’ factor – people say ‘excuse me, what are you wearing?’” Korite’s extensive catalogue includes the Couture collection of classic statement pieces, as well as a Gold and Silver collection and the striking new Elements collection, with ammolite flakes set in contemporary, stained-glass and mosaic-style settings. The Watch collection, with precision-cut mosaic faces, and the Décor line, with stunning whole ammonites in matrix slabs, framed ammonites and sculptures made from large pieces of ammolite, round out Korite’s offerings. New products are constantly being brainstormed by all of Korite’s employees. It’s not uncommon for someone to knock on Grewal’s office door and offer a new idea for using ammolite, and she welcomes it. “We take great pride in our product through our master craftsmanship,” she says. Korite ammolite is sold in 25 countries around the world. It does a brisk trade on cruise ships, and it’s also sold on television shopping channels in Canada and many other countries. One of Korite’s latest marketing strategies is to position the Alberta gemstone as one that relates to every part of the world, posing a piece of ammolite jewelry against stunning natural landscape photos of each locale where it’s sold. Allan Dagnall, marketing consultant to Korite, says the intent is to stir up magical and romantic associations with ammolite. “We’re putting it with known landscapes. When we listened to why people bought pieces, it was because on, say, cruises, it ties them back to that moment they were there on their 20th anniversary in Alaska, and they saw a mountain and the piece had all the colours of that mountain sunset,” Dagnall says.

BRIGHT FUTURE Believing in its people, its products, and its passionate heart has seen Korite grow into something as brilliant as its gemstones. Each person’s unique and true colours and patterns have been brought out under just the right conditions since 1979. Like an ammonite, Korite has spiralled out from small beginnings, and built round and round its nucleus to form something ever more impressive. From humble beginnings hauling ammonites uphill in packs, the company’s successive leaders have continued in the founders’ footsteps, focused on growing and developing a world-class gemstone company that can take on the competition anywhere on the globe. “The ultimate goal is having the whole world know, recognize, appreciate and desire ammolite. We are devoted to that goal,” Grewal says.

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GIA

Digital Footprint 64K followers 81.1K followers 41.4K followers

Celebrate Coloured Stones with GIA’s Retailer Support Program Retailers participating in GIA’s Retailer Support Program can now use an enhanced collection of coloured stone materials to tell the story of these beautiful gemstones to their customers. The materials – including brochures, counter displays and a birthstone flipchart – further the program’s mission to help retailers educate consumers about diamonds, coloured stones and pearls, and the value of GIA grading and identification reports. New ruby and sapphire brochures, along with existing materials on emeralds and pearls, help educate consumers about colour, clarity characteristics, sources and treatments. All brochures are conveniently available from the program website as downloadable PDFs and printed handouts. In addition, gemstone counter displays, available in acrylic or cardboard, let customers know that a retailer carries gems with GIA reports. The new birthstone flipchart celebrates each month’s birthstone with detailed information about the gemstone’s colour, geographic sources and mineral specifics. With a paid retailer support order, the new birthstone flipchart is currently included as a free gift and global shipping is also included at no cost with all orders made between April 1 and May 10, special promotion rules apply. “GIA provides retail jewellers with tools and resources backed by GIA’s decades of research and experience to help them educate consumers about diamonds, coloured stones and pearls and the value of knowing what they are buying through a GIA report,” said Tali Nay, manager of the GIA Retailer Support Program. “These new tools will help retailers match their point-of-sale tools with their individual inventories and businesses.” In addition to point-of-sale tools, the Retailer Support Program offers free videos, images, logos and interactive downloads for use in advertising, and on a retailer’s website and social media. The program also offers a series of staff training modules to help retailers educate their staff on topics including the 4Cs of diamond quality and GIA laboratory reports. Participants can also register for the Retailer Lookup – a free service that helps consumers find retail stores – visit https://www.gia.edu/retailer-lookup-registration.

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About GIA An independent nonprofit organization, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), established in 1931, is recognized as the world’s foremost authority in gemology. GIA invented the famous 4Cs of Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat Weight and, in 1953, created the International Diamond Grading System™ which is recognized around the world as the standard for diamond quality. Through research, education, gemological laboratory services and instrument development, the Institute is dedicated to ensuring the public trust in gems and jewelry by upholding the highest standards of integrity, academics, science and professionalism. Visit GIA.edu.

GIA Updates Education Materials and Grading Reports for Laboratory-Grown Diamonds Following the recent update to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) Jewelry Guides, GIA has revised its education materials supporting its core consumer protection mission and updated its grading reports for laboratory-grown diamonds to align with the revised guides. Beginning July 1, 2019, GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond ReportsTM and identification reports will no longer use the term ‘synthetic.’ The new GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report will feature the same visual representation of the scales for color, clarity and cut as GIA’s grading reports for natural diamonds. The updated reports will continue to use descriptive terms for color and clarity, for example, Near Colorless and Very Slightly Included, as shown on the scales. The report will also include a QR code linking to GIA’s online Report Check service with more information about the growth processes of laboratory-grown diamonds. All detected clarity treatments will be disclosed. The comments section will include the statement.

LVMH The company saw net sales of €12,538 million, up 16% over the same period during the previous year.

Digital Footprint 281K followers 541K followers 102K followers

This is a man-made diamond produced by CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition) or HPHT (High Pressure High Temperature) growth processes and may include post-growth treatments to change the color. “Over the past few years, there has been an incredible advancement in the technology by which laboratory-grown diamonds are made. With the increased availability of man-made diamonds in commercial qualities, sizes and quantities, and with greater consumer awareness of and desire for this product, GIA is making these changes to align with the revised FTC Guides and changes in the market,” said GIA President and CEO Susan Jacques. “Our mission is to ensure the public trust in gems and jewelry; these updated reports will give consumers buying laboratory-grown diamonds confidence in their purchases.” The updated reports will be available beginning July 1, 2019. Any GIA Synthetic Diamond Report issued since January 1, 2018, may be returned and exchanged for the new Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report at no cost. Since the FTC revision in July 2018, GIA has been reviewing and revising its education materials and procedures to ensure consistency in nomenclature across the Institute. GIA is conducting significant research, including consumer focus groups, to learn what the public expects from GIA reports for laboratory-grown diamonds. These focus groups indicate that there is still confusion about the product and the differences between natural diamonds and laboratory-grown diamonds. There are also mixed views on what format GIA reporting on laboratory-grown diamonds should take and on whether grading reports are needed at all for man-made diamonds. As GIA’s mission is to protect the public trust in gems and jewelry, the Institute will continue to survey consumers with the goal of providing them with information that clearly describes the product and informs them in making their purchase decisions.

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Sales of perfumes and cosmetics were up 12%, at €1,687 million. Iconic brands drove growth – Parfums Christian Dior launched new fragrance Joy and watched classic perfumes continue to flourish. (The Rouge Dior and Diorskin lines were also cited for “remarkable performance.) Guerlain’s growth was attributed, in part, to the Abeille Royale skin care range and Rouge G lipstick, while Parfums Givenchy performed “very well”—particularly its Le Rouge and Prisme Libre makeup ranges. Fenty Beauty “continued to grow rapidly.” “In the buoyant environment of the beginning of this year, albeit marked by geopolitical uncertainties, LVMH will continue to focus its efforts on developing its brands, maintaining strict control over costs and targeting its investments on the quality, excellence and innovation of its products and their distribution,” the company said in a press release. “The group will rely on the talent and motivation of its teams, the diversification of its businesses and the geographical balance of its revenue to reinforce, once again in 2019, its global leadership position in luxury goods.”

#trending

Drake wears Richard Mille Drake aka ChampangePapi aka The 6 God was spotted courtside at game 5 of the NBAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eastern Conference Semi-Finals between the Toronto Raptors against the Philadelphia 76ers wearing a Richard Mille RM 67-01 Rose Gold Extra Flat Skeleton Dial.

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Drake also performed at XS Las Vegas nightclub wearing a diamond-encrusted Richard Mille watch and a bracelet with Louis Vuitton detail.

58M followers 38M followers

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Hamilton Ventura AN ESSENTIAL PART OF THE ICONIC UNIFORM The Hamilton Ventura is the Official Watch of Men in Black™: International The Men in Black are back with a cool new look, a brand-new team and the same famous outfit, which includes the Hamilton Ventura. It’s a perfect choice for the world’s most famous alien-fighting agents. The Hamilton Ventura has played a starring role in every Men in Black movie as key to their characters as the black suit, shades and neuralyzer. The Ventura is one of our most popular watches and has had a cult following since its original release in 1957. Since 1997, it has been a part of the iconic Men in Black uniform. Daring, pioneering and ahead of its time, it’s an eye-catching choice that has served the Agents well. Since 1932, Hamilton watches have been at the heart of cinema. They have appeared in over 500 major movies and are specially selected to help define characters and advance the plot. Our watches are instantly recognizable on the wrists of some of the most memorable characters in silver screen history – none more so than the Men in Black. In 2019, the Men in Black are back with a brand-new adventure in Men in Black™: International. They’ve always protected Earth from the scum of the universe. This time, they tackle their biggest, most global threat to date: a mole in the Men in Black organization. Agents M and H are both part of the Londonbased MIB team, and they both wear the Hamilton Ventura. Agent M is new on the scene but has opted for a bold choice in the original Ventura color combination of stainless steel case, black dial and black leather strap. Agent H is something of a maverick and what you see is what you get. His choice is the Ventura Automatic with H-10 automatic movement, cut out dial and brown leather strap. The film is directed by F. Gary Gray, and written by Art Marcum & Matt Holloway, based on the Malibu Comic by Lowell Cunningham. Produced by Walter F. Parkes and Laurie MacDonald. Executive produced by Steven Spielberg, E. Bennet Walsh, Riyoko Tanaka, David Beaubaire, Barry Sonnenfeld, Edward Cheng, and Howard Chen. The film stars Chris Hemsworth, Tessa Thompson, Rebecca Ferguson, Kumail Nanjiani, Rafe Spall, Laurent Bourgeois & Larry Bourgeois, with Emma Thompson and Liam Neeson.

Digital Footprint 27,3K followers 367K followers 19K followers

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Industry News

ITALY’S VICENZAORO SHOW

to Present the Latest Trends in Jewellery Design. This September - With A Diverse Array of Talent in the “The Design Room” and “The Watch Room”. CORPORATE PROFILE

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1. Yeprem Jewellery

icenzaoro September, the international jewellery show organized by Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) will take place in Vicenza, Italy from September 7-11, 2019. Vicenzaoro September is where the international jewellery community meets to discover the design trends that will be influencing their sector. From The Design Room to Trendvision, the independent research centre that forecasts global jewellery trends, Vicenzaoro will be staging the best of design and international creativity in a unique setting, made of beauty, art and culture. An even larger section of Vicenzaoro September called “The Watch Room” will be entirely dedicated to the world of watches and fascinating time-pieces with refined quality and brand selection.

2. Muhle Glashutte 3. Marie Mas 4. Alessio Boschi 5. Treesure 6. Cedille Paris 7. Just Cavalli 8. Alessa Jewellery 9. Stephen Webster 10. D’orica WN 11. Sicis

The Design Room

The Design Room, located inside the ICON community hall, will bring unique ideas and experimentation together with a curated selection of 12 top independent designers from all over the world presenting their own collections in a highly original and creative way. Their personal aesthetics lie in unusual gem accompaniments, curious shapes and geometries and are expressions of power and elegance. The Design Room Vicenzaoro September 2019 will showcase designs from some returning exhibitors such as, Marie Mas, Lydia Courteille and Alessio Boschi, as well as some new and highly important international entries. Among these is Tomasz Donocik, the Polish designer who lives and works in London and has already been nominated as Jeweller of the Year in the United Kingdom. Known for his stylistically highly contemporary designs, with a language that speaks to a sophisticated and mature audience, he works in artisan-style and exclusively in pink or white 18-carat gold using the best precious stones.

Among the new entries of 2019 are Yeprem, the Lebanese designer, famous for her creations with diamonds, and Greek designer Margaritis Lefteris. Confirmed participants are Sicis, a designer that lives in constant cross-collaboration, and Mattia Cielo, with his masterfully engineered jewellery. In addition, Eclats Jewelry, Alessa

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Jewelry and Cedille Paris and the highly-anticipated return of Netali Nissim, with her iconic collections of prêt-à-porter talismans. “Once again at the September 2019 edition, The Design Room will be strengthening Vicenzaoro’s new international direction which, with this project, gives voice to a series of accurately selected international designers,” says Federica Frosini, Chief Editor of VO+ Jewellery and Luxury magazine, Italian Exhibition Group’s publication specifically for jewellery. “An idea that focuses on independent designers whose stylistic identity is expressed through collections of extremely high-quality manufacture”.

From the classic and elegant styles of time-pieces for men to North European minimalism, colours and unique personalization. And again, from Swiss, German and Japanese-made automatic movements to quartz movements with innovative dials designed in Italy, California and Northern Europe. Exhibitors in the area will include several brands, each with their own particular characteristics. A much-awaited new entry is Corum, a historical Swiss-made brand of high range watches that has always been a forerunner in introducing new shapes for dials and one of the first in the world to add indications on tides to its watch functions. Also on display will be models by Luminox, the Californian brand and one of the most famous and successful in the segment of military watches for men. Their watches are renowned for resistance and night-time luminosity. Victorinox, the well-known multi-use, Swiss knife brand, also has a military imprint and will be presenting its collection of time-pieces at Vicenzaoro. Elegance and quality are the distinctive trait of Junghans, a German watch manufacturer with over 150 years behind it and which has made timeless style and reliability its strong points. Style and, above all, high technicity characterise the Japanese brand Orient, one of the largest groups in the world in the production of automatic movements which will be joining the Vicenzaoro community for the first time.

For the first time, a dedicated area located inside the ICON District, will be hosting Stephen Webster, the well-known English designer, often defined as the sector’s “rockstar”, who has brought a breath of youthfulness and edginess to the British jewellery world. His lengthy history in the world of jewellery started from a course for aspiring jewellers in Kent and has led to international jet-set celebrities. Currently, his loyal customers are of such calibre as Kate Moss, Jay-Z, Johnny Depp and Cameron Diaz, to mention a few, as well as Madonna, for whom he has designed several rings. Lastly in The Design Room, the new market trend theme must include one of the most highly-anticipated events of the Vicenza Show: the presentation of TrendBook 2021+ at the seminar given by TRENDVISION Jewellery + Forecasting, the world’s first independent research centre specialized in jewellery trends and consumer attitudes, headed by Paola De Luca, the international luxury scene analyst.

The Watch Room To corroborate the ever-greater popularity of this area and the anticipation that builds around it, this year, The Watch Room will be located in a more prominent, elegant and functional position along the central colonnade within the LOOK community (the district that focuses on fashion jewellery). A carefully selected capsule with an extreme variety of 12 different brands to provide Vicenzaoro traders with a preview of the latest collections and new arrivals during the most important time of the year in anticipation of final customers’ purchases for the Christmas festivities.

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The creations presented in The Watch Room this September by Barbosa, will have an all-Mediterranean spirit as well as their usual elegant lines. Highly colourful and patterned creations with a great inclination for personalization to ensure each item’s uniqueness and character. The Picto brand, founded by two Danish designers whose aim was to break the rules of traditional time-telling on wrist watches, leaves the classic style totally behind. Here, North European minimalism merges with innovation for this revolutionary time-piece and design object. More fashionable and unconventional proposals also come from Carl Edmond with daring collections sporting square dials along with softer and more rounded lines in a perfect blend of Swedish design and Swiss precision. Quality, elegance and technology are undisputedly guaranteed in Pryngeps watches, created from artisan passion and great Made in Italy tradition. A brand that, for over 60 years, has been uniting the clean and rigorous lines of steel with the sophisticated lightness of applied stones. Functionality, however, is the key word at Nautische Instrumente Mühle-Glashütte, the only watch manufacturer in the German city of Glashütte which still belongs to a long-standing local family and which will be attending Vicenzaoro together with Meistersinger, another German company that draws inspiration from the sundial and clock tower tradition for its time-piece creations. The Watch Room community will be completed by Just Cavalli creations and the 100% natural wood watches by Green Time. Lastly, significant focus will once again be placed on TRAINING at Vicenzaoro September 2019. During the five days of the Show, visitors will be offered a full program of events, panels and seminars on highly interesting and topical subjects. For further information, refer to the website: https://www.vicenzaoro.com/en/september

25•262019 •27

AOÛT PALAIS DES CONGRÈS DE MONTRÉAL

Designer Profile

Introducing

HAJIME ANDO: Ex-Bvlgari Designer by Isabella Yan

okyo based Jewelry Designer Hajime Ando infuses his Japanese heritage and passion for the Italian aesthetic into his latest creations bringing forth elegance, beauty and strikingly gorgeous, refined lines.

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The level of detail that goes into Hajime Ando’s visually stunning creations is worthy of attention and admiration. In today’s age of rapid manufacturing and instant consumerism, quality of this caliber stands out. Inspired by the city of Rome, Hajime’s designs are infused with a natural affection for this glamorous, ancient city. The gold light at mid day and sunset, the circular lines of winding streets and glorious statues, the fusion of ancient and modern through stone, rock, steel and glass, the glittering of sunlight in the mirror of fountains, the gold, metal and shine off cars, sunglasses and reflective belts. Rome is and remains the enviable opulent jewel of Europe; it’s no wonder that Ando’s vision, creativity, talent and passion for the Italian aesthetic integrates so beautifully with the iconic Bvlgari brand. As Hajime continues to glitter his way into the spotlight he rightly deserves, we caught up with him at the Jewelry Trade Center in Bangkok to explore his inspirations and his work. 1. Can you introduce us to your background and what led you to jewelry design? Hajime Ando: My professional path began more than 30 years ago in Tokyo, Japan, my hometown. In university, I majored in metal craft, which is a traditional Japanese handicraft. After graduation, I started my career as a jewelry designer in Japan for ten years. After my first trip to Italy, my love for Italian art and language led me to move to Valenza in 2001. Valenza is Italy’s major jewelry district in the region of Piedmont with the highest number of high-quality gold artisans and jewelry businesses in the country. Here, I continued to cultivate my passion for jewelry craftsmanship and became a designer for an Italian jewelry brand called LUCA CARATI. Afterwards, I was a designer for Crova s.p.a, an Italian manufacturer of handmade jewelry founded in 1845. From 2005 onwards, I became one of the seven jewelry designers for Bvlgari in Rome. Design for European Luxury Brand Bird pendant design from the new ANGIOIE collection

FTER MY FIRST TRIP TO ITALY, MY LOVE FOR ITALIAN ART AND LANGUAGE LED ME TO MOVE TO VALENZA IN 2001.

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2. You speak three languages – Japanese, Italian & English. Why were you drawn to Italy?

LIVED IN ROME FOR FIVE YEARS. ROME, WITH ITS ARCHITECTURAL AND ARTISTIC HERITAGE, HAS ULTIMATELY INFLUENCED MY CREATIVE DESIGNS AND MODE OF EXPRESSION.

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Hajime Ando: I studied the Italian language for five years in Japan before moving to Italy. I was fascinated by Italy’s rich heritage long before my travels. I had a massive fondness for Italian Fashion, Modern design, automobiles- to its cuisine, cinematography and culture. It was so different from the dainty, minimalist Japanese aesthetic I am familiar with; Italian design was dramatic, opulent and daring in its design. I believe my work is an interplay of Roman history and modern design working closely in synergy. 3. As a designer, what inspires your work? Did Italian art & design have an influence? Hajime Ando: I lived in Rome for five years. Rome, with its architectural and artistic heritage, has ultimately influenced my creative designs and mode of expression. The city of Rome is like a historical art museum. From beautiful pebbled piazza’s filled with world heritage sites, monumental public sculptures, Roman coins to the glorious pink sunset colours set against the classical Borghese gardens. Rome was, indeed, a unique experience for me.

4. What is the favourite piece you’ve ever created – and what made it so special? Hajime Ando: The scope of influence in Italian Design certainly echoes throughout my jewelry. While expressing Bvlgari’s values and heritage played an integral part in my design style, recently, I’ve been harking back to my culture and identity, using traditional Japanese metal craft techniques. Last year, in collaboration with Gyokusendou workshop, a new copper jewelry product was launched exclusively by Wako Department Store in Tokyo’s Ginza district. My idea was to create a jewelry collection that contemporized traditional Japanese copper techniques and embodied the Japanese spirit and soul. The Ginza district was an essential site for silver coin minting before it evolved as an upmarket shopping district. Thus, the shape of this pendant derives from the curved shapes of ancient Japanese coins. 5. Are your designs made by hand, CAD or a combination of the two? Hajime Ando: My design work is mostly made using CAD and a 3D printer. I care about the efficiency of my work, as well as maintaining the quality of finish. In design work, I learnt that speed is critical. 6. Bvlgari’s designs are characterized by their prominent use of multi-coloured gemstones set in luxurious yellow gold. What are your favourite materials & gemstones to use? Hajime Ando: My favourite metal is 18k yellow gold – It exudes passion and warmth. I also like using ageing metal copper and bronze. Recently, the increase in demand for diamonds meant that my designs feature more diamonds than coloured gemstones. Personally, the exuberance of colour is very important to me - It is colour that allows you to become creative, play with daring colour combinations and bring out the individualism and personality of the wearer.

Y DESIGN WORK IS MOSTLY MADE USING CAD AND A 3D PRINTER.

7. After ten years working as A Designer for Bvlgari, you now have your product development and design consultancy firm. Tell me more about your work. Hajime Ando: As an external Design Consultant, I provide creation planning to design prototypes for new start-up brands, primarily for Japanese and European jewelry companies. Jewelry is a reflection of a country’s customs, culture and environment. Thailand has remained the center of the jewelry industry retaining high standards of quality and craftsmanship and therefore becomes an immediate attraction for designers like myself. My next mission is to create innovative designs within this vibrant environment and eventually launch a global brand in Bangkok. 8. What advice would you give to someone interested in getting into the jewelry design business? Hajime Ando: I think there’s a reason for every encounter – It is necessary to immerse yourself in major jewelry hubs and learn from the many talented people you meet; opportunities will then arise.

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Feature

The industry is praising Presidium’s quality testing devices Presidium, a manufacturer of diamond and gemstone testing devices, has returned from the recent JCK show in Las Vegas, USA, reporting wide interest in its industry-leading products from both new and existing customers. The SDS II by Presidium has been ASSURE tested and delivered 100% accuracy on the synthetic diamond referral rate. This new commendation drove a lot of interest from the industry to find out more about the device, which is currently the only ASSURE tester that retails for less than US$1,000. Existing Presidium customers at the JCK show also praised the company for its efforts to continue to produce high-quality testing devices to meet their changing requirements. The increased awareness of lab-grown diamonds and the need to identify them is a particularly current need that can be met by using the SDS II. Joanne Yeo, Managing Director of Presidium, said: “Presidium has yet again achieved stellar success at the recent JCK show in Las Vegas. The exposure generated new interest in our ASSURE tested SDS II and its usage. We were expecting a higher buying interest of Presidium’s products at this year’s show due to the improved awareness of lab-grown diamonds and our achievement from ASSURE program. As Presidium moves forward, we continue to build and

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strengthen our efforts in providing quality products and excellent service to our customers. My greatest thanks and appreciation go out to all our supporters and the teams involved for their endless hard work in making this show a success.” The SDS II uses advanced technology that measures a diamond’s UV light transmittance ability. It is a portable desktop diamond verification instrument suitable for both loose and mounted stones, including melees as small as 0.02ct. Simple and easy to use, its indicator light bars give a blue light to indicate that the stone is a natural diamond and a red light to indicate a Type IIa diamond. The device gives clear and accurate results within two seconds. Established in 1979, Presidium was the first company in the world to launch numerous gemological instruments and is committed to researching and developing state-of-the-art instruments for the benefit of the industry. Its market-leading products include innovative diamond testers, coloured gemstone testers, gemstone gauges and portable carat scales.

WE ARE MEMBERS ALL!

Canadian Jewellery Expos is a proud supporter and facilitator of the Canadian Jewellery industry!

Making it more convenient for the exhibitor and the attendee We are enhancing your experience this year. • Improved venue in Edmonton, a new hall in Toronto. • Hotel rooms with complimentary transportation to/from the event for qualified buyers • Connecting with the largest number of retail jewellery stores and gift boutiques of any jewellery event in Canada. • Attracting the largest number of manufacturers and wholesalers of any Canadian jewellery event providing rates and prices only available at CJ Expos! • Now providing a social media campaign to over 4000 qualified industry contacts.

We are Canadian owned and operated, and proudly urge you to

Support the jewellery industry in Canada! As the marketplace continues to evolve and expand outward, propelled by innovations in both technology and communication, the catalyst for success amongst all of the competing factors is solidarity. The strong bonds we create and reinforce through relationships and interactions are the framework of stability necessary to navigate the shifting sands of this industry!

Support the industry that supports you! Stay strong, stay vibrant, and Stay Canadian!

ONLINE REGISTRATION NOW OPEN!

Visit cjexpos.com to register now for our TORONTO and EDMONTON 2019 EXPOS!

Toronto - August 11 - 12 - 13 International Centre Hall 6

Edmonton - August 17 - 18 - 19 Edmonton Expo Centre

Show Guide: CJ Expos

Canadian Jewellery Expos 2019

TORONTO / International Centre Mississauga

6900 Airport Road, Mississauga, ON, L4V 1E8 August 11-12-13, 2019 Sunday & Monday 10AM - 6PM / Tuesday 10AM - 4PM There are many exciting features taking place at Canadian Jewellery Expos this year. The Toronto Expo will run from Sunday, August 11 to Tuesday, August 13 at the International Centre, Hall 6 and the Edmonton Expo runs from Saturday, August 17 to Monday August 19 at the Edmonton Expo Centre. The expos will once again showcase leading manufacturers and wholesalers from across

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Canada and around the world. In addition to the newest styles and great price-points that are part of every expo, some in-show experiences that attendees have come to enjoy in the past will be brought back this year. The Opening Night Receptions, sponsored by Beverly Hills Jewellers, will be a great opportunity to enjoy a relaxed social environment at the end of

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the opening day in each city. Taking place in and around the Beverly Hills booth, attendees will be welcome to meet John Vaccaro and his team while enjoying complimentary drinks and appetizers. It will be the perfect complement to an exciting day of re-connecting with colleagues and industry friends.

EDMONTON / Edmonton Expo Centre

7515 118 Ave. NW, Edmonton, AB, T5B 0J2 August 17-18-19, 2019 Saturday & Sunday 10AM - 6PM / Monday 10AM - 4PM

Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) 100th Anniversary Networking Event - Enjoy this special social event sponsored by the CJA in celebration of their 100th anniversary. This will be an opportunity for CJA members and guests to meet and interact while enjoying drinks and light snacks. The event will take place on the second night of the expo at the CJA Pavilion on the floor as the show closes. For Toronto this will take place on Friday, Aug. 13, and for Edmonton, Thursday, Aug. 19.

Canadian Jewellery Expos has also announced the return of the popular Lunch ‘n Learn series of seminars, which are sponsored by Jewellers Mutual Insurance. Seminars at noon and at 1 p.m. will be featured on days one and two in each city, on topics relevant to today’s jewelry retailer. Attendees will be able to enjoy a complimentary lunch and beverage while attending the seminar. The fifth annual Vaccaro Family Scholarship will feature designs produced by jewelry students from across Canada. All the entries will be displayed

in Toronto and Edmonton, and attendees will have a chance to view the designs and vote for their favourite. The winning designer will receive $3,000, as well as exhibit space in future expos to help launch their career. The winner’s school also receives $1,000 towards their program. The 2017 Vaccaro Scholarship winner, Cassandra Vitiello of Nova Scotia College of Art and Design University, will be exhibiting her designs at the Toronto Expo this year. Attendees are encouraged to stop by her booth and see the work of this award-winning designer.

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Show Guide: Expo Prestige

EXPO PRESTIGE / Palais des Congrès de Montréal 201 West Viger, Montréal, Québec H2Z 1X7 25-27 Aug 2019

FLOORPLAN

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EXHIBITOR LIST

Responsible - 701 Joy 319 Cristal Swarovski et pierres SOCIÉTÉS # STANDS Ready Stock ™ 814 K8 Jewelry Concepts Bijoux 819 naturelles 812 150 ™ 419 Reebok montres 410 Karated, Silver, Platinum Dancing Diamond™ 527 925 Sterling 327 Reign By PAJ 605-705 & Palladium Casting Grain 701 Daniel Klein montres 410 A.R.Z. Steel 711 Reliable Steamers 827 Keith Jack Inc. 604 Danseur Nordique 419 Achat de Métaux Précieux 501 Renata 410 Kingsmen Distribution Ltd. 615 Delmar (watches) 101-105 Adoration™ 419 Repurchasing of yiur scrap Konifer Watch 715 Diamants en Fête 419 Almar Jewellery Inc. 311 Gold - Silver - Platinum - 501 Lab Grown Diamond inc. 227 Dioro 211 ARBE Machinerie 827 Rhythm of Love ™ 527 Lauren G. Adams 510 Double Bone 510 Artic Fox ™ Anti Tarnish Silver 814 RMR Inc. 515 Lee Cooper 101-105 DWS 3D Printers 827 Art’isa Creations 807 RNB 319 Les Georgettes 615 École de Gemmologie Aspen montres 410 RNB Jewellery 319 Lokai 510 de Montréal 631 Atlantic Engraving 415 Sales of Investment products Lorex Creations 427 Elle Jewelry 605-705 Banda bracelets 410 of the Royal Canadian Mint 501 Love in Motion ™ 527 Embix Cie D’Importation Banda Swiss 410 Samsara Creations 320 Love Letters 419 de Montres 101-105 Bandini bracelets 410 Sara Miller 615 Lumina - K8 819 Emotion 505 Bcouture 107 SBO Distributors Ltd. 326 Lux 405 Energizer 410 Begli 219 Scaro par Caroline Arbour, M3 405 Estoria™ 419 Bella 107 Mabensa Inc. 205 Eternal Flames™ Flammes Benjamin jacques 619 joaillière 809 Maple Leaf Diamonds 419 Éternelles 419 Bering 101-105 Scrap, Polishing, Mardini - 6 Collections 405 Exécutif 405 Best Bargains 119 Sweeps Refining 701 Maserati 101-105 Fire and Ice Canadian Best Built Polisher 827 Seasons™ 419 Master Alloys, Fine Gold, Diamonds 527 Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg. Ltd 527 Secrid 326 Fine Silver 701 Fit 405 Bianca Milano 322 Service de Fonte et Raffinage 501 MBS 205 Flica 219 Bien Jolis 619 Shiny Jewellers 107 Melting Service and Refining 501 Flica Inc. 219 Bijouterie Almar Inc. 311 Silver & Co 427 Mike Fournier 718 Foredom Electric 827 Bijouteries du Québec 730 Sindbad Inc. 719 Montres Acier et Bois 715 Forever Ice Canadian Diamonds 527 Bijoux Aréli Inc. 611 Stackology Stackables Montres de Bois 715 Gemme Canadienne Bijoux Créations Doigts de Fée 812 Stackologie Stackables - K8 819 My Baby Rocks 527 Nishi Pearls 305 Bijoux Fine Designer Steelx 605-705 Nishi Pearls 305 Gemoro 827 Fine Designer Jewelry - K8 819 Stone Removal 701 Noble Gift Packaging 827 General Refining Corporation 722 Bijoux Inox Canada 621 Storm 101-105 Noir 405 Giovanni Vaccaro ™ 527 Blushing Bride ™ 527 Studex 410 Or & diamants Canadiens 419 Grand Band 510 Boutiques en ligne RBI/BDQ 730 Tamar 115 Or Plus Inc. 501 Gravure Atlantic Ltée 415 Bronzallure 322 TDN Créations 813 Orca ™Bonded Rings and Tube 814 Groupe Courchesne 322 Butterfly ™ Recycled Tech-Emotion 505 Orléan montres 410 Hirsch 322 Precious Metals 814 Temps Précieux - K8 819 Paj Canada Company 605-705 Hollis Bahringer 621 Calypso montres 410 Ti Sento Milan 615 Paul Hewitt 615 I Promise Canadian Diamonds 527 Canadian Jeweller Magazine 123 Tides of Love™ Marées Perfect Together ™ 527 Image Design Jewellery 418 Canadian Jewellers Association 215 de l’Amour 419 Perspectif 405 Inox 621 Casio 322 Twinkle ™ 527 Pierres de Charme 426 Italgem Steel 510 CBE Inc. 511 U-Marq Engraver 827 Précision 405 Italgem Steel Group 510 Certifié Or Canadien 419 Umicore Precious Metals Prestige 405 Jacques Benjamin 619 Charles Garnier Paris 605-705 Canada Inc. 814 Privé 405 Jean Langevin 505 Christine Dwane, designer, United Precious Metal Programme de Prévention du Crime JETS - Jewellery Education joaillière, gemmologue 811 Refining Inc. 701 Crime Prevention Program 215 Training System 215 Christophe Poly / Vente de produits d’Investissement Promo Inc. 411 JETS - Système de Formation Crono Design Inc. 428 de la Monnaie Royale PUK 5 Welder 827 et Education en Bijouterie 215 Classique 405 Canadienne 501 Pulse™ 419 Jewelers Mutual Insurance Cluse 326 Vive Bridal (Coloured Purchase of Precious Metals 501 Company 217 Connoisseurs 322 Gemstone Collection) - K8 819 Q & Q 410 Jewellers Vigilance Canada 215 Continental Geneve 101-105 Wind’s Embrace Rachat de vos rebus Jewellery Business 328 Continental Pearl Canada Inc. 420 Caresse du Vent 419 Or - Argent - Platine - 501 Jewels 4 Ever 119 Corona Jewellery 419 Wire, Sheets & Solder 701 RBI/BDQ On Line Sale Platform 730 Jewels By Anita 119 Créations Malo 405 Re Defined ™ Enviromentally Josh 326 Crime Prevention Program 215

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Sponsor Content

GOLD

S I LV E R

SOLDERING PROCESS United Precious Metal Refining, Inc. is a global supplier of master alloys, de-oxidized sterling silver, solder and wire products for the manufacturing of Gold, Silver, Platinum & Palladium jewelry. United PMR is also a primary refiner specializing in processing all types of materials from scrap to bench grindings and sweeps. United PMR, Inc.’s understanding of the Gold & Silver soldering process is unparalleled in the jewelry industry. Here are a few tips to use during the soldering process to help aid in your continued success.

FITTING - Great care should be taken in the fitting of pieces to be joined. Make sure the surfaces are smooth, even, free of burrs and fit tightly. This will assure a strong neat joint requiring less finishing. Remember, “SOLDER WILL NOT FILL GAPS “.

CLEANING - All parts being soldered must be thoroughly cleaned. The joint areas and solder must be clean, free of oxidation, oil, grease, polishing compound and tape adhesive. If the area around the joint has a high luster, roughen the surface with a scotch brite pad.

3 4

These examples of diamonds with varying hues and color saturations represent the “pink” color ranges.

PROPER SUPPORT - Clamps or jigs should be used to align and hold the objects being soldered. This will help prevent movement or shifting of the pieces during the soldering process. FLUXING - The entire object should be given a fire coat of boric acid and alcohol with a brush. The object is then gently heated to form a protective coating to resist oxidation. The joint areas should be well coated with solder flux to allow for burn off during the soldering process. The Battern’s type liquid flux will only provide a thin coating and more flux may need to be applied to protect the solder joint. Paste fluxes can give better protection on some jobs as they provide a thicker coating.

HEATING - Use a slightly reducing flame (softer flame). Let the heat of the objects being joined flow the solder. Don’t try to force the solder to flow with the torch flame as this usually results in pitting or a poor quality joint. Use a steady even heat to the surrounding metal to a dull red color, and then concentrate the heat on the solder joint area. Do not overheat. It is best to keep the torch moving to provide an even heat. It is best not to use micro torches

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for ring sizing as the small intense flame usually overheats or oxidizes the joint. Remember, “SOLDER FLOWS TOWARD HEAT”.

CLEANING & PICKLING - Flux residue can be removed in hot water, a brush can be used to speed removal. Oxidation on the soldered objects can be removed in the pickle solution. Hot “Sparex” safety pickle is the most commonly used pickle solution and effectively removes any surface oxides. A 10 to 20% Sulfuric acid solution or a 30% Food Grade Phosphoric acid solution can also be used although “Sparex” is a much safer pickle. With over 30 years of industry experience, it’s no wonder their customers refer to them as “Simply the Best.”

The

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By Dave Gordon

Target and the Jewelry Market.

Millennials

News

One of the reasons for the economic change is that the industry has had to adjust to a new disruption: Millennials selecting jewelry designs from Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook or other social media. What that means is a whole swath of freelance designers, all looking for their own unique piece of jewelry. Independent jewelers have had to switch their business models, and frantically keep up with this new direction. As a result of the changes, there are now a growing number of jewelers who have turned to the custom order business, now the biggest boon for independent jewelers today. CJ Jewels is filling that very void, helping jewelers help their Millennial customers. Highly regarded experts, they offer a 21st century solution for jewelers who need to accommodate the new social media demographic. CJ Jewels has partnered with hundreds of jewelers across North America, all who have been highly successful with the custom order program. The process is quite straight forward. The jeweler visits CJ Jewels’ customer order page, and one of CJ’s specialists or store partners will design a sketch based on the images sent, and the customer’s preferences. CJ Jewels can tweak the design of the piece further if required, at no cost. Once the design and cost is approved by the customer, the customer’s ring of their dreams will be produced, and shipped to the jeweler. CJ Jewels does not charge a CAD fee to jewelers when the jeweler places orders.

the ever-competitive market, today many independent jewelers are struggling to find customers. With the lack of cash flow, they haven’t been able to invest in the business, or marketing, which has only contributed to the downturn.

This seamless custom order process is CJ Jewel’s “wow factor.” It’s relatively quick, easy, simple and gives the customer precisely what they want. Pricing is provided for all styles in 10KT, 14KT and 18KT. Diamond Quality for regular orders will be GH/SI. Pricing is also provided for items in GH/VS1.2 diamond quality. (Standard shipping fees are $35 CDN for FedEx two-day delivery, $55 for FedEx overnight, and $70 for priority overnight. All special orders will be produced and shipped in three weeks.) Independent and small jewelers are now competing and winning against larger enterprises, thanks to CJ Jewels.

CANADIAN SHOW ISSUE 2019

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

(Aniruddha Chowdhury/Mint File Photo)

Fugitive high-society jeweller Nirav Modi to be held in prison Billionaire jeweller Nirav Modi was denied bail after a British judge found evidence of “concerted effort” to interfere with witnesses in a multi-billion fraud case being brought in his native India. Ordering the highsociety jeweller be held in prison. The jeweller has been held in a grim London jail since March while the Indian authorities sought his extradition to face accusations of conspiracy to commit fraud and money laundering at India’s state-run Punjab National Bank. Mr. Modi, 48, has made repeated but unsuccessful attempts to secure bail since he was tracked down to a luxury apartment block in central London. His latest attempt failed on Wednesday after the judge, Ingrid Simler, said that witnesses needed to be protected from undue influence. “There is evidence that manipulation has occurred and that a concerted effort has been made to interfere with witnesses,” she said. The judge said Mr. Modi’s US-based brother Nehal Modi had travelled abroad to meet with directors of Mr. Modi’s firms and destroyed their mobile phones. She dismissed claims by Mr. Modi’s legal team that this was to stop them being tracked by authorities rather than to destroy evidence, saying their claims did “not stand up to scrutiny”. “I cannot … conclude that there is no realistic scope for such activity in future,” she told London’s High Court. The 48-year-old jeweller spent 15 months on the run after he and his uncle Mehul Choksi were accused of fraudulently securing guarantees from the bank that were then used to obtain loans from abroad.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

CANADIAN SHOW ISSUE 2019

He was arrested on March 19 in a branch of the Halifax bank after being tracked down by reporters from the Daily Telegraph newspaper. He is being held in Wandsworth prison, where conditions have been repeatedly criticized by inspectors.Mr. Modi had offered to pay £2m bail and wear an electronic tag along with a host of other restrictions to keep him out of jail during the extradition attempt that can take more than two years before the process is exhausted. His lawyers had claimed that he had not evaded justice but had been living openly in the UK, paying council tax and had been trying to get a driving licence. His lawyer, Claire Montgomery, described conditions in the jail as “extreme”. Three previous bail applications had been rejected at a lower court. The judge said on Wednesday there was strong evidence to suggest Mr. Modi had the means to abscond if given bail. Forbes estimated Mr. Modi’s wealth at $1.73 billion before the alleged fraud, placing him 85th on India’s rich list. Mr. Modi’s art collection has already been auctioned off by the Indian authorities, raising $8m for the taxman. The Indian authorities have also reportedly seized and destroyed the billionaire’s $14 million, 33,000-square-foot property near Mumbai. Source: The National

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CANADIAN SHOW ISSUE 2019

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55 queen st e #1100 toronto, onfirst m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898 it is no longer possible to ignore the significance of social media on the jewellery industry. Now, the round of Goldsmith/Jeweller the Excellence Awards will require you to post images with detailed descriptions of Master three products of your choice Prestigious, well established Vancouver workshop seeking full time, bench jeweller/ that you feel best to represent your brand. You must post the goldsmith, images on your European Facebook or/and Instagram page, preferably trained. Candidate must have the following qualifications: Master Valuer Jewellery Appraisal Program 10+well years’as experience tag in the post Canadian Jeweller, and use #awardsofexcellece and #canadianjewellers• as the hashtag that • accreditation from a reputable institute The Canadian Gemmological Association is now offering the full Masterrepresents your category the best. • advanced skills in hand forging jewellery in gold, platinum and silver from sketches Valuer Jewellery Appraisal Program in class. This course is approved under the Private • extensive knowledge of metals, diamonds and gemstones Career Colleges Act for The Canadian Gemmological Association teaching in Ontario. • ability to carve waxesof the the most will be nominated and entered for the second round Please contact the office The for posts more with information or likes visit and our engagements website at • excellent communication skills in English competition, where Canadian Jeweller experts will professionally judge the nominated profiles and choose a winner. www.canadiangemmological.com Compensation is based on experience and includes paid vacation and extended health benefits. Please reply by email with a resume, photographs of work and 2 references to carla@carlawilson.ca

Awards of Excellence

The Canadian Gemmological AssociationWhy should you participate in the competition?

exposure you will1R6 get from having your products featured in the magazine and on our website, C A NSt A DE, IAN J E W In ELower L Laddition, E R . CConcourse, O M Jto C Kthe ISS U E 2 0 1 7 Ont, 55 Queen #105 Toronto, M5C you will also have the opportunity to offer your AOE piece for auction at The Great Jewellery Heist. A prestigious Tel: 647-466-2436, Fax: 866-757-9603 event held in support of Bridgepoint Health. which will further enhance your brand awareness and raise money www.canadiangemmological.com info@canadiangemmological.com

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2019

for a great cause. A tax receipt will be provided for donated pieces that are accompanied by a third-party appraisal for fair market value, as per CRA guidelines.

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*Please Note* You will have to state the category that your line belongs to in the details of your submission/ post. A list of the categories is provided below:

JEWELLERS BLOCK INSURANCE POLICY RENEWING SOON? Admission Requirements for the second round:

2017-05-02 3:03 PM

Are you the best of the best?

• The completed nomination form available on canadianjeweller.com • A $100 entry fee per nomination • Retail Brand of the Year - #cjretailbrand • Photographs of the product/product line being • Best Canadian Diamond Design - #cjdiamonddesign nominated • Industry Innovation of the Year - #cjinnovation • Samples of advertising campaigns, brochures, etc. • Jewellery Manufacturer of the Year - #cjmanufacturer marketing the product line • Best Coloured Gemstone Design - #cjgemstonedesign it is•no longer possible to ignore the significance of social media on the jewellery industry. Now, the fitwo rst Canadian round of retailers • Testimonials from at least Best Platinum Design - #cjplatinumdesign the•Excellence Awards will Enterprise require you with detailed descriptions of three products of your choice Outstanding Canadian of to thepost Yearimages - #cjcanenterprise • you Outstanding of the Year - #cjintenterprise feel bestInternational to representEnterprise yourNot brand. You must post the images on your Facebook or/and Instagram page, Open to Public Wholesale Only that • Retailer of the Year #cjretailer tag in the post Canadian Jeweller, and use #awardsofexcellece and #canadianjewellers as well as the hashtag that 55 queen st e #1100 toronto, onYear m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898 • Supplier of the - #cjsupplier represents your category the best.

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CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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CANADIAN SHOW ISSUE 2018

JCK ISSUE 2017 Why should you participate in the competition?

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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In addition, to the exposure you will receive from having your products featured in the magazine and on our website, you will also have the opportunity to offer your AOE piece forCauction atS The ANADIAN H O W Great I S S U E Jewellery 2 0 1 9 C A N Heist, A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M a prestigious event held in support of Bridgepoint Active Healthcare, which will further enhance your brand 75 2017-05-02 3:03 PM 2018-07-11 9:20 AM awareness and raise money for a great cause. A tax receipt will be provided for donated pieces that are

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Last Word

Rose de France

18KT White and Rose Gold 189.03 gms - White Diamonds 6.594 cts - Yellow Diamoonds 9.416 cts - Aquamarine 6.967 cts - Pink Sapphires 13.406 cts - Paraiba 13.494 cts - Demantoid 2.54 ct s- Indicolites/Blue Tourmalines 5.433 cts - Mali Garnet 4.65 cts - 14/85.120 big Spinels Pink/Purplish/Fucsia (from 4.68 cts to 8.15 cts, 13/16.088 small Spinels Blue/Pink/Orange/ Purple (from 0.65 cts to 2.25 cts). Total 27/101.208 cts (un-heated with certificates).

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

CANADIAN SHOW ISSUE 2019

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