CJ Spring 2018

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The independent voice for the industry since 1879

SPRING 2018

Canadian Jeweller Magazine RETAILER PROFILE:

Rachel Berdugo

Oshawa Jewellery Investing in the Future OSHAWA, ON

TRENDS:

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Explore the latest bridal trends for 2018

RED CARPET BLING

Awards season is here and the stars are shining

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BASELWORLD PREVIEW:

ON THE HORIZON

Take a look at some of the watch brands at Baselworld this year

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HIGHEST RETURNS ON REFINING SERVICES FOR SILVER & GOLD

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‫נס״ ד‬

SPRING 2018 The independent voice forvoice the industry 1879since 1879 JCK ISSUE 2017 The independent for the since industry

Canadian Jeweller Magazine E S T AESTABLISHED B L I S H E D 1 1879 879

138 // No. No. 01 02 Vol. 139

Editorial Board Editorial Board Jean-Christophe Bédos Jean-Christophe Bedos Birks, President & CEO Birks, President & CEO Haigo Derian L’Oro Jewellery Jay Cameron PierreDeVuono Laurent Timepieces Gino Specialty Watch Resource Haigo Derian Joe Gonçalves L’Oro Jewellery Time Central Gino DeVuono Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive Specialty Watch Resource Paul Mcfarlane Joe Goncalves Chanel Canada Time Central Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc. Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc. Phyllis Richard Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. Phyllis Richard Beth Saunders Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. Canadian Jewellery Group RichardTitizian Rooney Sevan G.C. International Bogart’s JewelleryLtd.

OLI V IER FELICIO OLIVIER C A Y L A RFELICIO AMEY C O R R IAMANDA N A M O SLEE CA SCO T T JO R DA N SCOTT JORDAN D A NDANIELLA I E L L A V IVIZZARI ZZARI CONTRIBUTORS CONTRIBUTORS

SALES SALES O L IOLIVIER VIER FE LICIO FELICIO

EDITE M A RTINS EDITE MARTINS

HEAD OFFICE SALES

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Managingand Editor / cayla@thergmgroup.net Founder Thoughtsmith / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Editorial Manager Assistant/ /amanda@thergmgroup.net.com corrina@thergmgroup.net Content Art Director / scott@rivegauchemedia.com Visual Architect / scott@rivegauchemedia.com GraphicSeer Designer / daniella@thergmgroup.net Colour / daniella@thergmgroup.net David Brough, Sara Caceres, Anna Castan, Juan Chong, Christine Dwane, Breanne Forbes, Larry Johnson, John Stefanie Lamont,Cristian, Ryan Holtz, Larry Johnson, John Lamont, Mike Lawlor, Moshe Lerner, Shawna Lee, Joelle Litt, Mark Lutley, Duncan Parker, Karen Simmons Anne Neumann, Bonnie Siegler, José Tió

Advertising Sales Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6107 / email: olivier@canadianjeweller.com tel: 416.203.7900 x 6107 / email: olivier@canadianjeweller.com Advertising Sales Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6112 / email: edite@thergmgroup.net tel: 416.203.7900 x6112 / email: edite@thergrmgroup.net 920 Yonge Street, Suite 610, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7 tel: 416-203-7900 fax:610, 416-703-6392 920 Yonge Street, Suite Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7

MELANIE SETH

tel: 416.203.7900 fax: 416.709.6392 Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com

L ULUCY C Y HHOLDEN OLDEN

General Customer Customer Care CareManager Manager/ /lucy@thergmgroup.net lucy@thergmgroup.net General

MON T R E A L O OFFICE FFICE MONTREAL

tel: 514-381-5196 tel: 514.381.5196

Steve Turac Beth Saunders Turac Luxury Group Inc. Canadian Jewellery Group Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Steve Turac Mart Inc. Turac Luxury Group Inc. Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Mart Inc. SUBSCRIPTIONRATES RATES SUBSCRIPTION

Canada — year, one year, years, $85; three years $120.United UnitedStates States — — one year, one year US$205 Canada — one $50;$50; two two years, $85; three years $120. year,US$205. US$205.Foreign Foreign—— one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.)plus plusapplicable applicable taxes. taxes. Single Single copies Guide $40. (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) copies— —$25; $25;Buyers’ Buyers’ Guide $40. (Canada only, moresubscriptions) subscriptions) — — $17.50 $17.50 per per year. BulkBulk rate rate (Canada only, for for sixsix or or more persubscription subscription per year.

CHANGE CHANGEOF OFADDRESS ADDRESS

email: circulation@canadianjeweller.com fax: 416-703-6392 416-703-6392 email: circulation@canadianjeweller.comtelephone: telephone: 416-203-7900 416-203-7900 fax: or send your cover labellabel andand newnew address to to Canadian St., Suite Suite610, 610,Toronto, Toronto, ON. M4W or send your cover address CanadianJeweller Jeweller920 920 Yonge Yonge St., ON. M4W 3C73C7

PUBLISHED RGMGROUP GROUP PUBLISHEDBY BYTHE THE RGM

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representaCanada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all tions or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in adverpublisher such the limit publisher’s notpublisher’s exceed theliability amount of the advertising.charge No portion of this publication be reproduced, tising not and the in fault of an the event publisher and of in the such an event liability the limitshall of the shall notpublisher’s exceed thecharge amountforofsuch the publisher’s for such advertising. Nomay portion of this publiincation all or in part, the express permission the express publisher. Canadian Jeweller is pleased to review unsolicited submissions under the following may be without reproduced, in all written or in part, withoutofthe written permission of magazine the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleasedfortoeditorial review consideration unsolicited submissions for editoconditions: all material for editorial consideration written text(photographs, in electronic or hard copywritten format)text mayinbeelectronic used by or Canadian Jeweller andmay its af rial consideration undersubmitted the following conditions: all material(photographs, submitted forillustrations, editorial consideration illustrations, hard copy format) beliates usedfor by editorial anyitsmedia (whether printed,purposes electronic, internet, etc.) without consent internet, of, or thedisc, payment compensation to, the party material. Please direct Canadianpurposes Jeweller inand affiliates for editorial in any mediadisc, (whether printed, the electronic, etc.) of without the consent of, or the providing payment such of compensation to, the party providing such submissions material. Please direct submissions the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return to Rive Media, St.,ON Ste.Canada 610, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4. to the Editor, CanadiantoJeweller. Return undeliverable items toundeliverable Rive Gaucheitems Media, 920 Gauche Yonge St., Ste. 920 610,Yonge Toronto, M5R 3K4.

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CANADIANJEWELLER.COM SPRING 2018 CANADIANJEWELLER.COM JCK ISSUE 2017

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Departments

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Contents 14 EDITOR’S LETTER Exciting New Developments

16 CONTRIBUTORS The people behind the scenes 18 WHAT’S ON A look what the upcoming events and tradeshows 20 PRODUCT SHOWCASE Products from the hottest brands 24 STAR WATCH: IT’S A BLING THING Stylist to the stars dishes on the latest jewellery looks by Bonnie Siegler

34 RETAILER PROFILE: OSHAWA JEWELLERY Investing in the Future by Amanda Lee

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59 TECH SHOWCASE Tech products on display

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68 MARKETPLACE Classifieds 72 STYLE COUNCIL Get ready for spring 74 LAST WORD Soar Away

SPRING 2018

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38 Features & Columns

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52 26 FEATURE: ON THE HORIZON A guide to what to expect to see at Baselworld 2018 38 ROUGH CUTS: RETRO REVIVAL Bringing back 80s glam 44 DESIGNER PROFILE: LAURA TEDESCO Full Circle

58 TECH COLUMN Expecting the Unexpected by Mike Lawlor

by Amanda Lee

46 CAMERA READY: FINISHING TOUCHES & SPRING BLOOM Get inspired by these creative jewellery images

60 MARKETING COLUMN A Jeweller’s Marketing Dream by Ryan Holtz

50 FEATURE: FRENZIES AND FAILS Highlights from Christie’s and Sotheby’s Geneva auctions

62 GEM COLUMN Valuing the Invaluable

by David Brough

by Anne Neumann

52 FEATURE: A WORLD OF POSSIBILITIES Explore the latest in bridal trends for 2018

64 ON DISPLAY Tools of the Trade

by Amanda Lee

by Larry Johnson

56 TECH PROFILE: CREATIVE CADWORKS Outside of Tradition

66 JVC COLUMN The Case of the Scooter Bandit

by Rob Shaw

by John Lamont

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©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

At GIA, gems endure even more pressure. Science and discovery underpins everything we do. Since 1931, the Gemological Institute of America® has been unearthing the truth about gems and creating industry standards. With unwavering commitment to accurate and unbiased methodologies, our dedicated research staff advances the knowledge the industry and consumers need to protect confidence in gems and jewelry. Our discoveries are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

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Bar code technology solutions for jewelry pricing: Print professional tags using your computer! Arch Crown bar code packages increase efficiency from the stock room to cash register. With over 35 years of experience in computer pricing and bar code printing systems; we have solutions for all your jewelry pricing needs.

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Feature:

Baselworld Preview

ON THE HORIZON Your guide to what exhibitors have to showcase at Baselworld 2018. From bold and opulent to sleek and trendy these timepieces will surely get you ready for the show.

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Urwerk UR-210 Black Platinum

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Baselworld Preview

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Feature:

Baselworld Preview

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Retailer Profile:

Oshawa Jewellery

Investing in theFUTURE by Amanda Lee

It’s a brave new world, but Rachel Berdugo feels ready. As owner and proprietor of family business Oshawa Jewellery, established in 1983, she has witnessed many evolutions in the jewellery industry over time.

“It’s definitely challenging today with the internet, it makes the business very transparent. If you do something good—or bad—right away, it’s there on social media. People are also purchasing online, of course.” Oshawa Jewellery has an active social media presence and uses feedback apps and tools to enhance customer experience online. Despite the predominance of online activity, Rachel believes that the store experience is still the utmost importance. “The internet is great for buying toilet paper and diapers, but you won’t get the personal, connected experience you will at our store. My staff is highly trained and knows how to navigate the sale to ensure when a customer comes to us, they leave with the right piece, for the right price and leave feeling worthy and respected. This is and always has been very important to me. The store experience is the key to success and it’s what we will be focusing on in our new, gorgeous store.” In a time when many in the jewellery industry are considering closing their stores, Rachel has invested in the future of her business with a new retail location. This past November, Oshawa Jewellery moved to a new space in the Oshawa Mall, across from their previous location.

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Making a move With the move, Rachel now acquired three stores side by side in the mall which include two franchise owned stores, Pandora and Swarovski. “The move was lucky for us, the spaces just happened to become available right next to each other,” Rachel said. “We were coming up to our 35th anniversary so the timing was perfect.” More space is created by having a dedicated location for Swarovski, and the open concept design for the Oshawa Jewellery store gives a friendly sales experience for the customer, without barriers between staff and shoppers. The feedback has been very positive so far from the community. “People say: ‘Wow—it looks like you belong in New York!’” Rachel laughs. “It was a big investment, but I thought: I love the business! Yes, there are a lot of changes, but I’m invested in it. I have a son in the business who is young and innovative. I have my daughter who is a designer and owns her own jewellery company called Autograph Jewelry. I didn’t feel the need to retire and put the money in the bank. I felt I could go on and leave a legacy.” Rachel’s son Tally and daughter Liora are both in the family business. Tally has a business and commerce education and Liora a journalism and design degree. Rachel’s son-in-law Avi, is their diamond wholesaler and owns his own company called AF Special Diamonds Inc. in Los Angeles.

SPRING 2018

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DECEMBER 2014

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Retailer Profile:

Oshawa Jewellery

“It warms my heart that our family is in this business together. I just came from a conference that I shared with my husband and son and his family and it was amazing. We work together, we get to travel together—I feel so lucky, I pinch myself every morning!” Rachel expresses her feeling of good fortune and gratitude freely, not only for the joy of spending so much time with family, but also for the chance to learn and grow in such a fascinating industry.

Humble beginnings Raised on an Israeli kibbutz, Rachel emigrated to Canada in 1968. After her son was born, Rachel started considering a career in jewellery. A relative in the business trusted her with some initial pieces and she started hosting wine, cheese and jewellery parties and sold pieces at flea markets. She began attending industry events to observe and learn about jewellery. Rachel set up her first small shop in downtown Oshawa after that in 1983, which was the beginning of Oshawa Jewellery.

Giving back Many years later, Rachel remembers with gratitude those in the Oshawa community who supported her first store, and is happy

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to be able to pay that sentiment forward. As well as investing in new retail space and online engagement tools, she invests in her team as well. “I treat them like family, and many of them have been with me for years—someone just retired who was with us for 30 years. I value their opinions, and we talk about our lives. If they want to learn—take a gemology or accounting course—I will pay for it. I know it can only make the business better. I think if I’m invested in them, they’re invested in me.” The team receives renowned Friedman Group retail training, as well as specialized training and mentorship from management at Oshawa Jewellery. Rachel has created a warm retail environment for customers with an engaged team, inviting open space concept, and a full suite of service offerings. The store has a jeweller on the premises, allowing for fast turnaround for customer requests. They also do watch repairs and maintenance and specialize in creating custom jewellery using CAD design techniques. Rachel also says, “We have Tacori, Verragio, RND, and Noam Carver engagement rings; beautiful watches from Tag Heuer, Gucci, Hamilton, Montblanc, and Tissot—all these gorgeous brands available here in Oshawa, so our customers don’t have to run to Toronto.”

SPRING 2018

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Oshawa Jewellery takes great pride in doing their best to make every customer’s dream come true. Whether it’s customdesigning an engagement ring to incorporate stones or settings that evoke how the couple met or sending flowers to customers on anniversaries, Rachel believes that customer care is the most important thing. “The money is irrelevant; I don’t care if they spend $10 or $10,000. I want my customer to feel valued.” When asked about accomplishments, Rachel is very proud of her team. She herself has much to be proud of looking back over the last 35 years. Rachel had a dream of building a store from scratch and a passion that brought forth her thriving business with the help of her supportive family and team. Rachel says that she is always learning and enjoys staying in touch with industry news, taking time each morning to read about what is going on. “We definitely have a pulse on the business—it’s not like somebody’s running it from the sidelines,” she states. With a new location offering consumers a superior shopping experience, and a loyal family and team, she feels optimistic about the future. “The luxury business still has room in society. We don’t have to disappear, we don’t have to be dinosaurs. The internet is just another useful vehicle to promote our brick-and-mortar business. There will always be a place for us.”CJ

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Rough Cuts

American Retro Dress, Rodarte Vintage Coat, Stephania Shoes, Vintage Jewellery

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retro

REVIVAL Bringing back 80s glam with Stefania Cristian

photography by Jósé Tio styling by Anna Castan makeup & hair by Sara Caceres model: Stefania Cristian

DECEMBER 2014

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Rough Cuts

Pau Parker Shirt, Zara Sweater, Zara Skirt, Daniel Espinosa Link Necklace, Stylist’s Own Jewellery

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Twin-set Jersey, Tara Jarmon Neck, Calcedonia Tights, Lerock Short Jeans, Twin-set Boots, Stylist’s Own Jewellery DECEMBER 2014

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CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Rough Cuts

Tara Jarmon Print Dress, H&M Shirt, Stylist’s Own Jewellery, Twin-set Muff, Daniel Espinosa Link Bracelet, Daniel Espinosa Clip

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Mademoiselle Tara Bomber, Monic Necklace, Tara Jarmon Pants, Calcedonia Tights, Daniel Espinosa Link Bracelet, Stylist’s Own Jewellery DECEMBER 2014

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Camera Ready

photograph by impressionsjewellery.ca

You’re never fully dressed without these finishing touches: a beautiful signature scent to inspire and elevate the senses, and the sparkling gleam of perfectly paired jewellery such as a classic V point necklace and simple yet elegant ring to complete your ensemble.

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Jewellery: Daniello & Co

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Camera Ready

Be inspired by the soft flowering bloom of springtime, and slip on a dainty accent to add a bright touch to your look, such as a feminine bracelet or bangle with a graceful curved design. photograph by impressionsjewellery.ca

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Jewellery: Larus Jewellery

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DECEMBER 2014

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Tech Profile: Creative CADworks

OUTSIDE OF TRADITION Creative CADworks capitalizes on new technologies and business practices to deliver array of unique services by Rob Shaw

CREATIVE CADWORKS WAS FOUNDED IN 2009 by Hemdeep and Kamal Patel, a third generation in the family jewellery firm Ujas Gemport, which has been providing wholesale coloured stones to the jewellery trade since the 1960s. The brothers are both graduates of University of Toronto and GIA (Gemmological Institute of America). Previously in 2004, keen to further pursue their expertise in gemology, they established HKD Diamond Laboratories in Toronto. Within four years, the Patels had opened HKD labs in Mumbai and Bangkok providing advanced gemological analysis and reports. According to Hemdeep Patel, “We knew that this growing industry would be a perfect fit for our skills, and that we were witnessing growth and endless possibilities in the emerging 3D industry. With Creative CADworks, we have developed a business that provides complete custom jewellery design, education, 3D printing and manufacturing solutions to the jewellery trade in Canada.”

Team effort The company’s seven-member team is led by Hemdeep and Kamal as CEO and CTO respectively while others are responsible for financial management, online marketing, web and social media and order fulfillment.

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The Patels attribute their success in the jewellery industry to staying ahead of the competition by moving outside of tradition to capitalize on new technologies and business practices. “We have invested heavily in a number of leading 3D printers and we have learned the strengths and weaknesses of the available technologies. This has allowed us to focus on our customers needs and led us to successfully create our own castable resin, CCW Castable HD resin, which we manufacture and export globally for use in the jewellery industry.”

Constantly evolving Once again, they are leading the way in gemology by evolving Creative CADworks to provide a more complete array of services for 3D printing and CAD design. For example, they use CAD software to create the most appropriate setting design, taking advantage of the unique features of each particular gemstone. They fine tune the burn-out and casting procedure for 3D printed resin models, and they have helped large scale manufacturers fine tune their own printing procedures for better efficiencies. In addition to the advanced software and 3D printers they distribute, Creative CADworks offers education and training services in the basics of RhinoGold 3D jewellery design software and print models on 3D printers. In 2018, they we will introduce parametric design training, using Grasshopper, which teaches how to design with the aid of computer coding. Training can also be fully customized to suit client needs.

Looking to the future The Patels believe that many retailers are challenged by competition from e-commerce and other retail channels but they can bring customers back into their stores by offering exceptional services, such as in-house custom CAD jewellery design. Whereas clients began using Creative CADworks’ CAD services

early on, now they have brought CAD services into their own retail establishments and purchase Creative CADworks’ products and training for staff. Going forward in 2018, the Patels believe there will be two major trends of change in the jewellery industry—the growth and use of CAD and 3D printers at the retail level, and the growing impact of utilizing algorithmic modeling, such as Grasshopper, to create parametric designs. Their own goals for this year include the global launch of their advanced castable resin while also continuing to provide training, 3D printers, software and resins to the jewellery industry. According to Hemdeep Patel, “In 2018, we are now firmly established as a Canadian-based technology company and are looking to the future to see how our technological capabilities can be applied globally in research and industry.” CJ

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