CJ Spring 2016

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The independent voice for the industry since 1879

SPRING 2016

Canadian Jeweller Magazine a glimpse BASELWORLD 2016 Take at this year’s watches PREVIEW What to consider LIFE AFTER for succession planning DEATH

STORE RENOS Are you considering minor touch ups or a total makeover?

Meaningful Milestones

Nettleton’s Jewellers 100 Years in the Making CMCA AUDITED

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THIS IS A PREVIEW VERSION. FOR THE FULL VERSION DOWNLOAD OUR APP ON ITUNES AND GOOGLE PLAY BROUGHT TO YOU BY PAJ/ELLE


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Departments

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Contents 14 PUBLISHER’S LET TER 16 CONTRIBUTORS / BEHIND THE SCENES 18 WHAT'S ON

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20 PRODUCT SHOWCASE 23 STAR WATCH Dressed and accessorized to the nines 68 MARKETPL ACE

28 FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events 36 ON THE COVER: NET TLETON'S JEWELLERY A family-owned jewellery store that has been serving customers for over 100 years by Phill Feltham & Irina Lytchak

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72 ST YLE COUNCIL How to keep eveningwear chic, elegant and ultra-trendy 74 L AST WORD Glam rock

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piarasales@prime-art.com www.piarabyelainej.com 866-837-3553

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Features & Columns

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Contents 24 FEATURE: 2016 BASELWORLD PREVIEW Here’s a little taste of what’s to come 40 FEATURE: BREATHING NEW LIFE INTO YOUR STORE How to do touch-ups and when to plan a total makeover by Inna Levchuk

44 FEATURE: CUR ATING COLOUR Canadian fashion icon Jeanne Beker steps into the world of coloured diamonds with JSN Jewellery

60 ON DISPL AY Sales language: how to use the right words when selling to customers

by Irina Lytchak

by Larry Johnson

48 FASHION: ORDINARY TO EX TR AORDINARY Using chic jewellery to create fashionable style

62 GEMS & GEMMOLOGY Retro jewellery: looking back at the jewels of yesteryear by Duncan Parker

54 FEATURE: IF GOLDILOCKS OWNED A JEWELLERY STORE Increase your sales with one simple strategy by Larry Johnson

64 JVC REPORT Attempting the impossible—and succeeding by John Lamont

56 FEATURE: IT’S ALL IN THE FAMILY What to consider to guarantee smooth sailing when it comes to succession planning by Mehreen Shahid

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FOR INQUIRIES CONTACT steelx@paj.ca

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Sales Fundamentals Olivier Felicio, Editor-in-Chief

Editor’s Letter

IN THE PAST THREE MONTHS, the number one comment I heard from many of you while visiting your stores or offices was: “business has changed.” You are totally right. We all agree that customers’ shopping patterns today are significantly different. Also, we agree that how we reach our consumers is not the same as the good old “A” days. Today, we need to present content to new and younger clients. In this area, we know that social media speaks to them. Some have dabbled with social media, consumer advertising, and other marketing methods without really gaining an understanding of what really works. Ask yourself a few questions before giving up on—or, for that matter— starting any marketing initiatives. When you connect with your customers, what happens? Do you relate? Do you have something that your customers can connect with? It is easy to pressure the brands to market their products to drive customers to our stores. However, we need to go back to basic sales fundamentals and upsell the client with product knowledge and fashion tips. PAJ Canada/Elle Time & Jewellery and Canadian Jeweller Magazine has some bright ideas that you can use for your social media and your upselling presentation to your customer on page 48. Basic sales fundamentals coupled with new ideas are what will put the cash in the register. Your customers want new ideas, so go ahead and give them some. CJ

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What’s On Gear up for the year by staying informed on what shows are bound to be the biggest hits in 2016. The following is a list of key dates, location and contacts for the top shows around the world in the coming months to make YOUR life easier. Also, be sure to check out canadianjeweller.com for a full online calendar listing of the major shows for 2016. Trade Shows

FEBRUARY

March 2-5: Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair (Hong Kong) asiafja.com March 3-7: HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show (Wan Chai, Hong Kong) hktdc.com March 9-12: XIII International Baltic Jewellery Show ‘Amber Trip’ 2016 (Vilnius, Lithuania) ambertrip.com March 10-13: Istanbul Jewelry Show March (Istanbul, Turkey) ubmrotaforte.com March 13-15: JA New York (New York, USA) ja-newyork.com March 13-15: MJSA Expo New York (New York, USA) mjsa.org March 16-19: Amberif (Gdansk, Poland) amberif.pl March 17-24: Baselworld (Messe Basel, Switzerland) baselworld.com March 18-20: The Gem Expo (Toronto, Canada) thegemexpo.com March 19-22: Jewellery & Gem Fair (Freiburg, Germany) jewellerynetasia.com March 20-23: Quebec Gift Fair (Montreal, Canada) cangift.org

February 2-7: AGTA GemFair Tucson (Tucson, USA) agta.org February 2-7: GJX Gem & Jewelry Show (Tucson, USA) gjxusa.com February 3-7: JCK Tucson (Tucson, USA) tucson.jckonline.com February 3-7: JUNWEX St. Petersburg (Saint-Petersburg, Russia) eng.rjexpert.ru February 5-8: 9th Signature Show (Mumbai, India) iijs-signature.org February 7-11: Spring Fair 2016 (Birmingham, UK) springfair.com February 12-15: Inhorgenta 2016 (Munich, Germany) inhorgenta.com February 12-16: Ambiente 2016 (Frankfurt, Germany) ambiente.messefrankfurt.com February 15-19: International Fashion Jewelry & Accessory Show (Las Vegas, USA) ifjag.com February 21-24: Alberta Gift Fair (Edmonton, Canada) cangift.org February 24-28: 57th Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Show (Bangkok, Thailand) bangkokgemsfair.com February 27-28: Australian Jewellery Fair (Melbourne, Australia) jewelleryfair.com.au

APRIL

MARCH

April 5-9: 40th MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show (Sharjah, UAE) mideastjewellery.com

March 1-5: HKTDC Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show (Hong Kong) hktdc.com

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Cover Story

Years in the Making Nettleton’s Jewellery opened its doors in 1916—and, after 100 years in business, will celebrate this milestone all year long. by Phill Feltham & Irina Lytchak photography by Jessica Deeks

NOT MANY BUSINESSES SURVIVE A CENTURY. However, Nettleton’s Jewellery is an anomaly. A retailer based out of Ottawa, Ontario, operated by the third generation, is now celebrating an anniversary that will last an entire year. “[Our] anniversary is in April,” says Geoffrey Nettleton, one of the three brothers who currently operate the store. “In a normal year, we actually have the anniversary sale all of April. [That] is when we’ll do the cake cutting with the mayor, with other long-standing customers in attendance.”

Humble Beginnings Behind the glamour and celebrations is a century of hard work. Two years before the end of the First World War, George Nettleton, Geoffrey’s grandfather, with partner William Haskett, opened up shop as Nettleton & Haskett Watchmakers. The partnership lasted a couple of years while the business strived and survived the tumultuous times caused from the First World War. George relocated to Bank Street as the store’s sole owner in 1923. “We’re not sure whether financially things were better off and he could afford to do it himself, or for some other reason,” says Nettleton. A year later, George’s younger brother, Harold, began working for what now became a family business. The business continued to find success through the great depression and World War II. Tragedy hit the business when George passed away in 1947. Douglas,

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George’s son and Geoffrey’s father, stepped in to help the family business get back on track. Douglas took over the store’s ownership in 1956.

Passing the torch Between 1973 and 1978, Douglas’s three sons Richard, Cameron, and Geoffrey, began working at the store part time and then full time. Douglas retired in the 1990s, and, at 88, would still work with his sons at the store if necessary. “He would still come in on occasion if there was only one of us who could work and we needed someone for a couple hours,” says Nettleton. “But to this day, if we asked him, he would still work, but we figured that at 88 he shouldn’t; he now enjoys his retirement at home with our mother.” “We [the brothers] all thought we would be doing different things, but eventually, by the time we were in our twenties, we decided to work for our father,” says Nettleton. “He never said we were coming to work for the store, we were allowed to do whatever we wanted to.” Once the brothers started working full time, they took a variety of different courses to increase their knowledge of the trade. “We’ve all done the diamond grading courses,” says Nettleton. “Cameron and Richard did the coloured stone courses, and I took come courses through George Brown on casting and jewellery repair.” Collectively, the brothers took three or four different courses at Algonquin College that included diamond setting, jewellery manufacturing or fabrication.

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Cameron Nettleton, Douglas Nettleton, Geoffrey Nettleton, Richard Nettleton.

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Cover Story

Modus Operandi Each brother plays a different role in the store. “Besides serving all of the customers that come in, Cameron does all of the appraisals, Richard does the finances, and I do the day-to-day things that go on in the store that need to be fixed,” says Nettleton. Collectively, Nettleton’s Jewellery does over 200 watch and jewellery repairs (including a dozen or so customized jobs) a month. The repairs are outsourced to a privately held company.

Jewellery for all ages Having survived for 100 years, Nettleton’s Jewellery has many generations of customers that need to be served with both jewellery and watches. From anniversaries for great grandparents to a baby’s first Sterling Cup, inventory has to cover it all. “People will ask why we carry so many watches, but it’s amazing how many 20-year-olds like to wear watches,” says Nettleton. “Now, whether they actually look at them or if they just like them for decoration or the bling factor, that’s up to them, but they still buy them—certainly not as many as it used to be—but it’s a fashion statement.”

Location, location The downtown Ottawa location of Nettleton’s Jewellery, with three different street front locations, was open from 1916 until 2008 when slowing traffic and shrinking business forced the brothers to make a very difficult decision to close that particular store. Currently, the three brothers work at their Westgate Shopping Centre location, which opened in 1988. “After working long hours for years, we’re fortunate that the three of us now work out of one store. We can now enjoy a shorter work hour week,” Nettleton says. “By setting up the schedule so that we always have two Nettleton family members in the store, we can keep the hair pulling to a minimum, and always have fresh insight for our customers.”

Online Ventures Despite years of success, Nettleton’s Jewellery still faces ongoing challenges. For example, e-commerce has affected Nettleton’s business. Customers find the same jewellery that Nettleton offers at a cheaper price online. Despite the impact on the bottom line, Nettleton is amazed how many people look at their website. “Anything we put on the website, we like to keep in stock, and we like to put the price on it,” he says. “People who shop online obviously want to see the price. I’ve looked at a lot of other websites, not just local jewellery stores, and none of them have a listed price. Anyone shopping online wants to see the price right away and go from there.” Nettleton launched a redesigned website in order to keep up with their competitors.

Future Generations With the next generation of Nettletons working in their own fields, the brothers are always looking at ways to maintain the Nettleton’s Jewellery legacy. “If we can survive another 25 to 30 years, then maybe we can skip a generation.” CJ

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AT A GL A NCE NAME: Nettleton’s Jewellery OWNERS: Richard, Cameron, and Geoffrey Nettleton LOCATION: Westgate Shopping Centre, 1309 Carling Avenue, Ottawa Ontario, K1Z 7L3 STORE SIZE: 1,100 square feet STAFF: 4 KNOWN FOR: Friendly service, community support, and a wide variety of product COOL FACTOR: We are100 years old and there are always two of the owners around

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Fashion

STEELX Gold-Plated with Gradual Crystal Circle Dangle Earrings, $75 ELLE TIME & JEWELRY Sterling Silver “HUG” Two-Tone Earrings, $199


EXT AORDINARY

ORDINARY Using chic jewellery to create fashionable style

text by Kelechi Achonu photography by Marek Wlazlo makeup by Giancarlo Intini hair by Angela Gordon All clothing by ACHONUHOUSE (Prices upon request)

TO

FASHION HAS ALWAYS been about the ‘it’ bag or shoe. This season, jewellery is back with a vengeance. So, let’s welcome the return of statement accessorizing as well as some valuable key pieces (a necklace, an earring—or even a bangle). We can go for the usual look. When the right question, “Where did you purchase that wonderful outfit?” is asked, the quest to replicate that exact look begins. However, let’s stay trendy and try something new. In this case, use chic pieces of jewellery with this spring’s colour trends. You want a ready selection that works with many patterns. An extra bonus, if you are able to make it to any social event (formal or work), all you need to do is remove the jewellery. Time to get your jewellery on board as the glam train pulls into fashion station. Let the season begin.


Fashion

STEELX Rose Gold-Plated Heart w/ 31.5� Chain, $80; STEELX Gold-Plated Clear Glass Cushion Pendant, $70; STEELX Rose Gold-Plated Light Pink Glass Ring, $40; STEELX Gold-Plated Lime Glass Ring, $40; STEELX Gold-Plated Mesh Bangle, $90; STEELX Rose Gold-Plated Mesh Bangle, $100; STEELX Braided Two-Tone Bracelet, $75; STEELX Two-Tone High Polished and Mesh Link Bracelet, $60 NEXT PAGE: REIGN BY PAJ Sterling Silver Gold-Plated Wave Ring with Diamonlite CZ, $109; REIGN BY PAJ Sterling Silver Tri-Tone Trio Rolling Ring with Diamonlite CZ, $179; REIGN BY PAJ Sterling Silver Rose GoldPlated Interlocking Bypass Ring with Diamonlite CZ, $84



Fashion ELLE TIME & JEWELRY Sterling Silver “WATERFALL” Two-Tone Bracelet, $139; ELLE TIME & JEWELRY Sterling Silver “’WATERFALL” Two-Tone Earrings, $349; ELLE TIME & JEWELRY Sterling Silver “HUG” Rhodium and Gold-Plated Ring. Set of Two, $219; ELLE TIME & JEWELRY Sterling Silver “HUG” Large Two-Tone Pendant, $99; ELLE TIME & JEWELRY Sterling Silver “RODEO DRIVE” Gold-Plated Ring with CZ, $59; ELLE Sterling Silver “RODEO DRIVE” Rhodium-Plated Ring with CZ, $59; Roma 1947 Gold-Plated “DECOLLETE” Handmade Diamond Cut Ring, $139; Roma 1947 Gold-Plated “INTRECCI” Adjustable Ring with CZ, $149; ELLE TIME & JEWELRY “DOUBLE DATE” Gold Plate with Crystal Dial, $219


Roma 1947 Rhodium-Plated “INTRECCI” Adjustable Ring, $159; Roma 1947 Rhodium-Plated “DECOLLETE” Handmade Diamond Cut Cuff, $159; Roma 1947 “Melodia” Bangle, $139; Roma 1947 “Melodia” Long Necklace, $229; Roma 1947 “Melodia” Earring, $149; Roma 1947 “Seta” Bracelet Leather and Rhodium-Plated Bracelet, $79


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