CJ Trend Issue 2019

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine

THE

42709013 | 920 YONGE STREET SUITE 608 TORONTO ONTARIO M4W 3C7 / $25

TREND ISSUE George Clooney:

C

A

OMEGA AMBASSADOR

Speedmaster 57 Semi-fuite Fondnoir

1255 PHILIPS SQUARE #901 MONTREAL QC H3B3G1 | 514 798 0770 | WWW.RNBJEWELLERY.COM

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2018 BUYERS’ GUIDE

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M­­­

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INFO@KINGSMENLTD.COM

TOLL FREE: 1.855.631.8380

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AVAILABLE AT: C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M 2 0 1 8 B U Y E R S ’ G U I D E ­­ Vasken Jewellers | MV Creative | Bisogno Jewellers | Pénélope | Bijouterie Guy Serres | Chemins D’Or | Lavigueur | Nappert & Métivier and other fine retailers across Canada ­

Made in France

INFO@KINGSMENLTD.COM

TOLL FREE: 1.855.631.8380

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AVAILABLE AT: 2 0 1 8 B U Y E R S ’ G U I D E C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M­­ Charms Ben Moss | Barry’s Jewellers | Lavigueur | Bijouterie Distributeur De L’est | Bogarts Jewellers Finch Centre Jewellers | Gordons Gold Jewellers |Jacobus | La Perle Rare | Radiant Fine Jewellers and other fine retailers across Canada ­

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2018 BUYERS’ GUIDE

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Trend Issue 2019

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine Magazine Canadian Jeweller

JCK ISSUE 2017

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

ESTABLISHED 1879

ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol. 143 / No. 01 Vol. 138 / No. 02

Editorial EditorialBoard Board

OLI V IER FELICIO

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com

OLIVIER FELICIO Founder and Thoughtsmith / olivier@thergmgroup.net C A Y L A R A M E Y Managing Editor / cayla@thergmgroup.net Architect / hugo@thergmgroup.net HUGO CUKURS Visual Editorial Assistant / corrina@thergmgroup.net COR R INA MOSCA

Jean-Christophe Jean-ChristopheBédos Bedos Birks, President & CEO

Guru / /scott@rivegauchemedia.com karl@rivegauchemedia.com KARL Art Director S CDELGADILLO O T T J O R D A N Web

Birks, President & CEO

DA N IELL A V IZ Z A R I

Haigo Derian L’Oro HaigoJewellery Derian

Graphic Designer / daniella@thergmgroup.net

Christine Dwane, Breanne Forbes, LarryGill, Johnson, Lamont, C O N T R I B U T O R S Anne Neumann, Steven B, Manj MikeJohn Lawlor, Moshe Lerner CONTRIBUTORS

L’OroDeVuono Jewellery Gino Specialty Watch Resource

Shawna Lee, Joelle Litt, Mark Lutley, Duncan Parker, Karen Simmons

Gino DeVuono

Joe Gonçalves Specialty Watch Resource Time Central

SALES

SALES Advertising Sales Advertising Sales 416.203.7900 x 6107 / email: olivier@thergmgroup.net OLIVIER FELICIO tel: tel: 416-203-7900 x6107 / email: olivier@canadianjeweller.com

OLI V IER FELICIO

Andrea Hopson Joe Goncalves Luxury Retail Executive

Time Central

EDITE M A RTINS

Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Marco Canada Miserendino

Advertising Sales

tel: 416-203-7900 x6112 / email: Yonge Street, Suite 610, edite@thergmgroup.net Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7 SALES 920 tel: 416.203.7900 fax: 416.709.6392

Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc. Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc.

HEAD OFFICE

Phyllis Richard Phyllis Richard JewellersVigilance Vigilance Canada Jewellers Canada Inc. Inc.

920 Yonge Street, Suite 610, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7 tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Beth Saunders Richard Rooney Canadian Jewellery Group

LUCY HOLDEN General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net M E L A N I E S E T H Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com MONTREAL OFFICE tel: 514.381.5196 L U C Y H O L D E N General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net

Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd.

MONTREAL OFFICE

Bogart’s Jewellery

Beth Saunders Steve TuracJewellery Group Canadian

tel: 514-381-5196

Turac Luxury Group Inc.

Steve Turac Moniruz Zaman The Bullion MartGroup Inc. Inc. Turac Luxury

SUBSCRIPTION RATES

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RATES Bulk rate (Canada only, for six orSUBSCRIPTION more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per year.

Canada — one year, $50; two years, $85; three years $120. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) plus applicable taxes. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40.

CHANGE OF ADDRESS Bulk rate (Canada only, for six or more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per416-703-6392 year. email: circulation@canadianjeweller.com telephone: 416-203-7900 fax:

or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller 920 Yonge St., Suite 610, Toronto, ON. M4W 3C7 CHANGE OF ADDRESS

PUBLISHED BYtelephone: THE RGM GROUP email: circulation@canadianjeweller.com 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

send Sales your cover label and new address No. to Canadian Jeweller The 920 Yonge St., Suite 610, not Toronto, ON. M4W 3C7 Canada Post Canadian PublicationsorMail Product Agreement 40678000. publisher does assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to

BY THE any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the PUBLISHED publisher and in RGM suchGROUP an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount Post Canadian Publications Mail advertising.

Sales Product No Agreement 40678000.

The publisher does not assume in responsibility for thewithout contentsthe of express any advertisement; any and all of ofCanada the publisher’s charge for such portionNo. of this publication may be reproduced, all or in part, written permission representations warranties Jeweller made in such advertising are thosetoofreview the advertiser and not of the publisher.

The publisher is not liableunder to anythe advertiser for conditions: any misprints all in material adverthe publisher.orCanadian magazine is pleased unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration following tising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publisubmitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its af cation may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editoliates for editorial purposes in any media all (whether internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, inorelectronic the payment compensation to,used the party rial consideration under the following conditions: material printed, submitted electronic, for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text or hardofcopy format) may be by providing such material.

Please direct submissions the (whether Editor, Canadian Jeweller.

Return Gauche 920 Yonge Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in anytomedia printed, electronic, internet, disc, undeliverable etc.) without the items consenttoof,Rive or the paymentMedia, of compensation to, theSt., par-Ste. ty providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian610, Jeweller.

Return ON undeliverable Rive Gauche Media, 920 Yonge St., Ste. 610, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4.

Toronto, Canadaitems M5Rto3K4.

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CANADIANJEWELLER.COM CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

TREND ISSUE 2019 JCK ISSUE 2017

WWW.CARMENCO.COM • TOLL FREE 1-(888) 825-0527

Departments, Features & Columns

64

Contents 12 EDITOR’S LETTER Why should you consider Native Advertising?

18 WHAT’S ON A look at the upcoming events and tradeshows

50 30 48 #TRENDING

50 COVER: OMEGA AMBASSADORS An exciting way to take our message to the world

20 PRODUCT SHOWCASE Products from the hottest brands 30 DESIGN OF THE MIND The last watches trends in all styles

64 FEATURE: FRANCK MULLER Poetry, technique and precision

38 FEATURE: JEWELLERY TRENDS The best of fashion and jewellery design

80 MARKETPLACE Classifieds

44 SHOW GUIDE: VICENZAORO JANUARY

82 LAST WORD Dewitt - Academia Hour Planet

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Awards of Excellence

2019

Are you the best of the best?

The competition has evolved! it is no longer possible to ignore the significance of social media on the jewellery industry. Now, the first round of the Excellence Awards will require you to post images with detailed descriptions of three products of your choice that you feel best to represent your brand. You must post the images on your Facebook or/and Instagram page, tag in the post Canadian Jeweller, and use #awardsofexcellece and #canadianjewellers as well as the hashtag that represents your category the best.

The posts with the most likes and engagements will be nominated and entered for the second round of the competition, where Canadian Jeweller experts will professionally judge the nominated profiles and choose a winner.

Why should you participate in the competition?

In addition, to the exposure you will receive from having your products featured in the magazine and on our website, you will also have the opportunity to offer your AOE piece for auction at The Great Jewellery Heist, a prestigious event held in support of Bridgepoint Active Healthcare, which will further enhance your brand awareness and raise money for a great cause. A tax receipt will be provided for donated pieces that are accompanied by a third-party appraisal for fair market value, as per CRA guidelines.

*Please Note* You will have to state the category that your line belongs to in the details of your submission/post. A list of the categories is provided below: • Retail Brand of the Year - #cjretailbrand • Best Canadian Diamond Design - #cjdiamonddesign • Industry Innovation of the Year - #cjinnovation • Jewellery Manufacturer of the Year - #cjmanufacturer • Best Coloured Gemstone Design - #cjgemstonedesign • Best Platinum Design - #cjplatinumdesign • Outstanding Canadian Enterprise of the Year - #cjcanenterprise • Outstanding International Enterprise of the Year - #cjintenterprise • Retailer of the Year - #cjretailer • Supplier of the Year - #cjsupplier

Learn more: http://canadianjeweller.com/awards-of-excellence

Admission Requirements for the Second Round: • The completed nomination form available on canadianjeweller.com • A $100 entry fee per nomination • Photographs of the product/product line being nominated • Samples of advertising campaigns, brochures, etc. marketing the product line • Testimonials from at least two Canadian retailers

‫נס״ ד‬

Why should you consider Native Advertising?

Olivier Felicio, Editor-in-Chief

Editor’s Letter

AS THE DIGITAL WORLD HAS TAKEN over your marketing efforts, many always come to me with what format between display or native provides the best results.

I always respond with assuming that users share similar unique internet browsing patterns.

Native ads are advertising formats that are consistent with the form, style, and voice of the platform they appear on.

People are consuming Native advertisements almost as the same way they would view editorial content which could be perceived as consumers looking at native ads 53% more than display advertisements and why they your native campaign register a higher lift in purchase intent (18%) and brand affinity (9%) than banner display ads.

Like everything, knowing your audience is the key to achieving great advertising results. However, without being relevant to your audience by providing engaging content, regardless of the format your choice to go with, your campaign will leave you with a bad taste in your mouth.

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TREND ISSUE 2019

Photo Credits: Oshawa Jewellers and Graziella Jewellers

“Our EXCLUSIVE SHOWCASE DESIGN APP let’s you see each display layout in real time.”

– Darrell King, President and CEO, Gunther Mele Ltd.

Custom Displays Designed to Fit Your Store.

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Helping You Tell Your Unique Brand Story.

Gunthermele.com

Karen Simmons

Karen Simmons is a Graduate Gemologist (GIA), The Gem Gallerie proprietor and an author of nine books, including: Buying Diamonds for Pleasure and Profit and award winning Chicken Soup for the Soul, which she co-authored with Jack Canfield. Find more details about diamond S.P.A.R.K.L.E.™ in Perfectly Clear, which shares more information about Canadian diamond history and the true value of diamonds.

What are new and repeat customers worth to you?

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Rembrandt’s charm displays generate $4,500 - $7,500 in sales per square foot!

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Complete selection of inventory-controlled displays available. Re-order only what you sell!

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Our vertical displays contain the best-selling charms by region, leading to impulse Sterling Silver sales and Karat Gold special orders.

Having a big imagination since childhood, Joelle’s styling career has been a natural fit and a constant

•

evolution of creativity. Clients include Ria Mae, Future Hendrix, Priyanka Chopra, Joffrey Lupul, and Our charm collectors are loyal, repeat customers!

Joelle Litt

publications Elle Quebec, TIME Magazine, Sharp Magazine, Clin D’Oeil and Canadian Jeweller! Find info on Joelle at joellelitt.com.

Contact Us Today!

Orders@RembrandtCharms.ca • p. 800-387-5238 • rembrandtcharms.ca

Digital and Print Marketing Support!

WHAT RETAILERS ARE SAYING: “Being a Rembrandt retailer was a no brainer for me. We carried the charms at my former employer and this was one of the first accounts I set up when I opened my own store. Great way to attract customers and the charms are a gateway for larger sales!”

Duncan Parker

- Jamie Parkerson, J. Parkerson Jewelers, Proudly selling Rembrandt Charms since 2017!

Lifetime Warranty

Handcrafted in USA & Canada

Not only is he VP and jewellery specialist at Dupuis Auctioneers in Toronto, but Duncan Parker is also vicepresident of The Canadian Gemmological Association and past president of Jewellers Vigilance Canada.

Thousands of Charms and jewellery, RetailParker has worked Business An educator in gemmology in Building the industry for over 25 years. If anyone is ined Gold andour Silver Locator Charm Program qualifi to be gemmology columnist, it’s him.

Contributors

J.W. Histed Diamonds Ltd. Vancouver, B.C. Full cut Rounds—Single cut Rounds—Natural Colour Rounds—Treated Colour Rounds Straight Baguettes—Tapered Baguettes—Princess—Grooved Princess Heart—Oval—Pear—Marquise—Cushion—Trillian Emerald—Carre—Asscher—Radiant—Trapezoid—Half-Moon—Rose Cuts Available .03ct to 1/4ct+ single stones for a repair, matched side stones, to 25 stones for a Anniversary Ring

in-stock!...In-Vancouver!...IN-YOUR STORE!

OVERNIGHT! Contact us for a current price list or online at www.jwdiamonds.ca 1-800-663-1458 / 604-681-8519 / fax 604-681-2413

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JCK ISSUE 2017

©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

Not all gems come from under the ground.

The Gemological Institute of America supports communities where gems are mined, working with the Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory to build libraries in Africa and helping artisanal miners understand the quality of their discoveries with our Gem Guide. These initiatives help make it possible for regional populations to take a more active role in the industry and ultimately help their community look forward to a brighter future. Our contributions are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls.

The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

TM

Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu

BENEFICIATION

EDUCATION

Ensuring the Public Trust Through Nonprofit Service Since 1931

INSTRUMENTS

LABORATORY

RESEARCH

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TREND ISSUE 2019

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M­­­

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What’s On Gear up for the year by staying informed on what shows are bound to be the biggest hits in 2019.

The following is a list of key dates, locations and contacts for the upcoming top shows around the world to make YOUR life easier:

Tradeshows

Also, be sure to check out canadianjeweller.com for a full online calendar listing of the major shows for 2019.

February 2 - 5: International Fashion Jewellery & Accessory - IFJAG (Las Vegas, USA) February 05: AGTA Gemfair (Tucson, AZ) February 6 - 9: JCK Tuscon - JW Marriott Star Pass Resort & Spa (Tucson, AZ) February 10 - 12: Carat+ (Antwerp, Belgium) February 13 - 19: Palm Beach Jewelry, Art & Antique Show (West Palm Beach, USA) February 20 - 24: Jewellerexpo (Volgograd, Russia) February 20 - 24: Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair (Bangkok, Thailand) February 28 - March 4: Hong Kong International Jewellery Show - HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show

March 10 - 12: JA New York is the leading fine jewelry trade show co-locating with MJSA at the Javits Center (NYC, NY) March 15 - 17: The Gem Expo Toronto - Hyatt Regency (Toronto, Canada) March 21 - 24: Istanbul Jewellery Show (CNR Expo, Istanbul, Turkey) March 21 - 26: March 21-26 Baselworld (Messe Basel, Switzerland) March 22 - 24: Vancouver Gem & Mineral Show - Pacific National Exhibition Administration (Vancouver, Canada) March 31: Antiques At The Grand Luxe - Grand Luxe Event Boutique (Toronto, Canada) April 06 - 07: Gem & Mineral Show - Paris Agricultural Society (Brantford, Canada) April 15 - 18: Jewellery Salon (Riyadh, Saudi Arabia) April 18 - 22: China International Gold - Jewellery & Gem Fair Shenzhen (Shenzhen, China) April 26 - 28: The International Gem & Jewelry Show (Scottsdale, AZ) April 26 - 28: Edmonton Gem & Mineral Show (Alberta, Canada) May 03 - 05: Jewellery Gem & Mineral Show & Sale - Don Mills Civitan Arena (Toronto, Canada) May 31 - June 03: JCK Las Vegas (Sands Expo & Venetian, Las Vegas, NV) August 11 - 13: Canadian Jewellery Expos - The International Centre (Mississauga, Canada) August 17 - 19: Canadian Jewellery Expos (Shaw Conference Centre, Edmonton, AB) August 25 - 27: Expo Prestige (Palais de Congres, Montreal, QC)

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GET NEWS AS IT HAPPENS! FIND IT ON OUR WEBSITE, NEWSLETTER AND BI-WEEKLY DIGITAL EDITION

DECEMBER 2014

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Product Showcase

GIA

Put your store on the map and be sure customers find your business by registering on GIA’s Retailer Lookup.

Through a city or postal code search, the Lookup allows customers to nd local establishments that offer GIA-graded stones or have GIA-trained staff. Sign up today through the Retailer Support Program website at retailer.GIA.edu.

Sauro

Imagination is the key to Sauro’s Minisphera collection. Sauro offers a vast variety of options to customize your Minisphera bracelet. Base materials are offered in Gold or Titanium, and let your imagination run wild with your personal choice of sphere color. All of Sauro’s sphere options are precious stones such as Amethyst and Blue Topaz, as pictured. If you’re feeling like you need a little extra, feel free to top off your design with your choice of black or white diamonds. Starting at $870 for titanium base or $2,670 for gold base. We Stand Apart™ www.saurojewelry.com

Brilliant Elements

Our most popular wedding band. The sleek look and a low profile makes it a versatile band, which would fit most engagement rings. We have a whole program from 1/6 Ctw to 1 Ctw which is priced just right. One ramp of these bands will cover 80% of the bands requirement at your store. harold@brilliantelementsusa.com

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Here is a Simple Way You Can Prevent Loss and Safeguard People!

For Less Than 33 Cents a Day, You Can Be Part of the Solution.

Your participation in the CJA Crime Prevention Program will directly support educational initiatives for Law Enforcement, put more eyes on the bad actors, and consequently will lead to more arrests, prevent crimes from happening and save lives.

Subscribers receive:

‫בס’ד‬

Collection

1255 Philips Square #901 Montreal QC H3B3G1 | 514 798 0770 | www.rnbjewellery.com

Protection

Success

Luck

Camera Ready

Jewellery: Inox

T Watch: Konifer Watch: Embix

Jewellery: ARZ

True

Jewellery: Italgem

North

Camera Ready

Jewellery: Eternal Diamonds Jewellery: Best Bargains

Jewellery: Silver & Co.

Jewellery: Best Bargains

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D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 4 ­­­

Jewellery: Nouvo Luxury

Jewellery: Emily Silver Collection

DECEMBER 2014

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Camera Ready

Jewellery: MBS Mabensa INC

Jewellery: Nishi Pearls

Jewellery: Pierres De Charme

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Jewellery: Crystal Dreams CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 4 ­­­

Jewellery: 925 Sterling

Jewellery: RNB

Jewellery: Gothrider

DECEMBER 2014

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of

Whatches Trends

Designthe Mind

Trends:

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ULYSSE NARDIN MANARA COLLECTION INSPIRED BY ITALIAN EROTIC COMIC BOOK ARTIST MILO MANARA. The underwater storytelling encounters between a hauntingly woman and a mythical mermaid, the watches are a palindrome, each one a unique, timeless moment that exists independently from the others. 10 pieces per drawing have been made available in stainless steel - $35,500 and 10 pieces in rose gold $45,500, for a total of 200 pieces

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KARI VOUTILAINEN LUXURY AND PRECISION IN THIS VINGT-8 37MM Trained at the world-renowned school of Tapiola in Finland Kari Voutilainen stayed true the definition of hand made watchmaking. The precision of their in-house designed movement, main plate, and bridges manufactured from German silver. $120,000

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RICHARD MILLE THE ULTRA-FLAT RM-16 FRAISE With its traditional rectangular case, still retains the same characteristics and attention of Carbon TPT case design. With open Candies, acrylic and lacquer painted dial. Only 30 were made available $175,000

HERMES ARCEAU BAOBAB CAT 12 limited editions Hand-painted onyx dial, engraved hand-painted mother-of-pearl. $110,000

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SPEAKE-MARIN MINUTE REPEATER FLYING TOURBILLON LÉGÈRETÉ “Lightness” in English, to highlight the sapphire-crystal case, which allows diving into the movement from the top, the sides or the case back. Openworked dial with engraving on the flange ring. The large red index at 12 with at 6 o’clock features a hand-finished 60-second cage that can be fully appreciated through the display back when the tourbillon is over. The lower tourbillon cage is supported by a paddle-shaped bridge offering clear visual access to the surrounding gears below.

Price upon request

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN MÉTIERS D’ART THE LEGEND OF THE CHINESE ZODIAC - YEAR OF THE TIGER 40 mm, 18K 5N pink gold. Celebrating art, history, and culture. Limited edition. $206,000

AUDEMARS PIGUET ASYMMETRICAL WATCH HERITAGE COLLECTION 1961, Inv. 302. Price upon request

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CHRISTOPHE CLARET MARGOT VELOURS: BLUE MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL SNOWSET BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS. This beauty, measurements of 42.5mm wide and 14.5mm thick in white gold make the Christophe Claret Margot Velours caters to ladies love for larger size watches.

It is a very exclusive piece of art; only 20 fortunate watch lovers would grace their wrist with a Margot Velours blossoms limited edition. $260,000 Cdn

PIAGET TRADITIONAL WATCH Individually produced with a case in 18K white gold set with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.6 ct). Dial set with 303 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.0 ct).

Bracelet in 18K white gold set with 384 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 13.9 ct). Price upon request

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iamond

are Forever

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1 Feature: Jewellery Trends

BY

AUTORE Pearls 2

ALL MODELS ARE WEARING THE PHUONG MY FLORAL COLLECTION was called Saudade and it was a pret-acouture collection, made especially for Dubai (middle east region). All the pieces were heavily beaded and embroidered by 80 artisans for more than 500 hours.

3

1. Autore Rose Earrings: 18k Rose Gold with White Diamonds and 11mm White South Sea Pearls.

2. Autore Hercules Knot Pendant: 18k Rose Gold with White Diamonds and a 11 & 13mm White South Sea Pearl.

3. Autore Rose Ring: 18k Rose Gold with White Diamonds and a 12mm White South Sea Pearl.

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1

2

3

4

1. Autore Orange Blossom Necklet : 18k Yellow Gold with White, Yellow, Green & Brown Diamonds with South Sea Keshi Pearls, 14mm White South Sea Pearl and 12-13mm Gold South Sea Pearls.

2. Autore Orange Blossom Earrings: 18k White & Yellow Gold with White & Yellow Diamonds and 12mm White South Sea Pearls.

3. Autore Orange Blossom Boutique Ring : 18k White & Yellow Gold with White & Yellow Diamonds and a 13mm White South Sea Pearl.

4. Autore Orange Blossom Cuff : 18k Yellow Gold with White & Yellow Diamonds, South Sea Keshi Pearls and a 12mm Gold South Sea Pearl.

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1

BY

VESSOT Design 2

3

1. Sanctum - Longest guava doublet rose gold over sterling silver diamond statement earrings.

2. Sanctum - Two white sapphire rose gold over sterling silver stationed necklaces 3 Sanctum - Fluid blush rose gold over sterling silver middle finger wrap ring.

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2

3

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1. The International – 14K white gold diamond bar blue topaz drop earrings.

2. Sparks - Tripled white sapphire sterling silver stationed necklaces.

3. Zingaro - Amethyst and blue topaz sterling silver bracelet.

4. The International - Elongated amethyst and diamond 14K white gold ring.

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1

1

BY

YOU!

Your turn to make the best combination. Send it to us and your collection can be in the next issue!

Send your composition to olivier@thergmgroup.net

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Show Guide: Vicenzaoro January

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y r a u n a J o r o a z n e Vic

event’s success

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Amazon After fierce opposition Amazon is canceling plans to build a corporate campus in New York City.

The company had planned to build a sprawling complex in Long Island City, Queens, in exchange for nearly $3 billion in state and city incentives.

Unfortunately, the deal had run into fierce opposition from local lawmakers who criticized providing subsidies to one of the world’s most valuable companies. Amazon said the deal would have created more than 25,000 jobs.

Amazon’s decision is a major blow for Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo and Mayor Bill de Blasio, who had set aside their differences to lure the giant tech company to New York.

Digital Footprint 29 million followers 1.7 million followers 2.9 million followers Unavailable

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Drake Drake commissions $400K iPhone case covered in diamonds After the Canadian superstar commissioned a 100-carat, life-sized owl pendant, and handed out free Chanel bags to guests at his birthday party. The Rapper pushed his sense of extravagant luxury by commissioning a diamond Iphone cover.

Digital Footprint 35 million followers 53.6 million followers 37.9 million followers Unavailable

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The “God’s Plan” entertainer, 32, commissioned Jason of Beverly Hills (the same jeweler behind that owl pendant), to deliver his latest plush idea: a $400,000 iPhone X case made in 18k white gold and entirely studded with small blue diamonds.

The tech jewellery is accompanied by a white gold OVO owl logo in the center with two big diamond eyes.

Spence Diamonds • Spence has recently opened new stores, including its first location in Ottawa and its entry into the Dallas, Texas, USA market with two stores.

• Spence has debuted a new look in its stores for a more modern feel with warmer lights, open cases for intimidation-free try ons.

• As the lab-grown diamonds trend grows, with nearly every major diamond brand and retailer introducing them into their product mix, Spence is a leader as the only brick-and-mortar diamond retailer to focus its business on lab-grown diamonds while still offering earth-mined. Spence reports that 80 percent of its customers purchase lab-grown diamonds after they are educated on the process, quality and pricing. If you are doing stories on lab diamonds, Spence should be top of mind as an expert resource. #trending

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Thomas Sabo THOMAS SABOis launching the CODE TS watch range. With a 3-hand quartz movement, these models are timelessly elegant in a variety of stainless-steel colours as well as a black colourway; depending on the mood of the day, give them a sporty update with interchangeable NATO textile straps The CODE TS watch with a round 38 mm case and minimalist dial structure stands for the new unisex style ‘code’ by THOMAS SABO - a clear design with an exciting mix of modern look and 50’s retro reference that can be worn alongside any lifestyle. Self-confident and individual, the CODE TS also offers special versatility: the watch’s fine-meshed Milanese bracelet is removable, so the watch can very easily be combined with NATO textile straps - a new complement to the range. From plain colours - to multi-coloured - to camouflage, depending on your taste, different designs and styles will adorn your wrist, from now and into the future.

#trending

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Cover Story: Brand Ambassadors

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AN EXCITING WAY TO TAKE our message to the world.

“An OMEGA ambassador helps us to reflect the best qualities of our brand.

As well as being excellent in their chosen fields: entertainment, fashion, sport, space - they are pioneering, committed, good-hearted and passionate.

Importantly, they also appreciate OMEGA products. Having a genuine interest in our watches creates a believable partnership that customers can trust. An excellent example of this was the Iconic Ladies Evening in late 2018.

OMEGA hosted an evening of true star quality to launch its new Constellation “Manhattan” collection in Shanghai. The event welcomed the four women embodying the new Constellation collection, some of the brand’s most inspiring female friends – Cindy Crawford, Nicole Kidman, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Liu Shishi. All four of these exceptional women are known globally for their talent, grace, charm, and elegance. Qualities shared by wearers of our Constellation “Manhattan”.

This was a very exciting and engaging way to take our message to the world.”

Raynald Aeschlimann, President, and CEO of OMEGA.

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Designer Profile: Vessot Design

JEWELLERY Design 2.0

by Léocadie Filiatrault

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LONG-TIME AWARD-WINNING CANADIAN JEWELRY DESIGNER Claire Vessot tells us about her perspective as a designer in these changing times, along with her own creative adaptive thinking.

With European ancestry from both Switzerland and France, Claire Vessot has inherited artistry that drives the creative passion in her life as she pursues her ever-evolving vision for her design career.

Claire lives and works in Montreal and enjoys a rich cultural presence and appreciation for the international influence of the city’s thriving fashion and arts scene.

While earning an impressive 20 industry design awards with accreditation highlights that include Canadian Jeweller, JCK, AGTA and DeBeers, Claire is perhaps best known for her most visible work as former lead and senior designer of ELLE Jewelry.

A long-time dream realized, Vessot launched www.vessotdesign.com this past November after an 11-month hands-on experience while maneuvering between contracts.

Shop Vessot Jewelry, Claire’s online boutique, features sterling silver-to-14K-gold made-by-order creations, along with a select range of 10K gold essentials with a focus on things she personally endorses such as Italian hoops and light-hearted spreadable rings. Claire’s message in her work is about empowerment, kindness, strength and confidence – expressions that evoke a unique individual style with her jewelry.

When we spoke a few years back, Claire mentioned to us that collaborative efforts made the design process a pleasure. Claire still maintains that same sentiment today but with a twist: “Collaborations these days are taking on an evenmore meaningful definition. I’m currently finding that my clients are like partners in more ways than simply inspiring my design efforts.” In other words,

collaborations and partnerships are changing way designers work. “Design by contract isn’t enough anymore as we want to feel there is a responsible commitment on all sides towards a successful outcome, moving ahead in a more defined way”.

‘Splitting’ is a term Claire uses to describe her own way of expanding a theme well into a strong collection that holds together, where a single idea branches into several other looks within a concept range. Claire exclaims with a wide grin, “Splitting now to me means less expansion and more variety.

Themes or let’s call the designs ‘looks’, are highly desired but with more style range within a concept.”

From the design perspective it’s a welcomed advancement in Vessot’s opinion to be able to work closely with a CAD designer who has spent years perfecting their own craft, who can quickly render her technical designs to perfection, produce head spinning-realistic 3D artwork, all this in advance of costly sample production eliminating waste and saving time with pre sample adjustments. It’s this teamwork that matches skills and creates something both technologically and creatively blended.

When asked what advice she would give to others, Claire used say that one should discover what they were good at and stick with it. But she’s since shifted her thoughts because of these

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changing times. “I still agree with that thinking, as we all have obvious natural strengths and passions that make us stand out. But if you’re going to succeed, having an expanded repertoire or having a first hand understanding of them is only an advantage that will serve you and your clients well. Taking up CAD, or building great Designer to CAD Artist relationships, embracing the digital world with arms wide open, and any complimentary asset being able to explain and ignite passion for your brand is where we’ve gone”.

It’s no longer as simple as building your own fabulous designer line and getting it out there to retail operations alone. We all know this.

Claire explains, “It’s all encompassing, somewhere between skipping steps and getting more detailed at the same time. Manufacturers going direct, more unique packaging design, the organics, ecofriendly materials, competitive price points, .com competition, sourcing disclosures, fair trade, social responsibility and giving back, social media with fast paced additions and let’s not forget some people prefer everything to look ‘Influencer’ natural. And the list goes on”.

Originality still sets fires. Staying present and being true behind your brand is what Vessot feels is essential when connecting to your market.

Claire adds that creating something unique that resonates is what makes something irresistible, and she’s not changing her mind about that belief any time soon.

Claire wraps up the session by saying that overall, the way she works has changed, mostly between technological advancements, the blending of traditional ties combined with new relationships, and the exploration of multiple platforms.

It’s a vibrant and exciting world, rich with domestic talent and skill available to ride the wavelengths that connect us. Being a jewelry designer today brings us back to the original passion of jewelry in ways that an ancient art with relentless and everlasting transformational beauty does. CJ

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All Prices in US $ AllAll Prices Prices in in USUS $ $

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For the best show prices in North America, visit our store For Forthe thebest bestshow showprices pricesininNorth NorthAmerica, America,visit visitour ourstore store or our website www.bbjw.com ororour ourwebsite websitewww.bbjw.com www.bbjw.com Package 373: Gorgeous Sterling Silver Filigree Package Package 373: 373: Gorgeous Gorgeous Silver Silver Filigree Filigree Angel Pendant available inSterling all Sterling 12 birthstone

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carry aavast assortment ofofGenuine Gemstones Package 969: 14kt handmade Sapphire We carry carry a vast vast assortment assortment of Genuine Genuine Gemstones Gemstones - -Package Package 969: 969: 14kt 14kt Y. Y.Gold Y.Gold Gold handmade handmade Sapphire Sapphire WeWe everything from Amethyst to Zoisite.

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Feature: Franck Muller

POETRY, TECHNIQUE and

precision

Franck Muller Remember collection: Master of Grandes Complications blends poetry, technique and precision FRANCK MULLER, AN ACKNOWLEDGED MASTER in the art of Grandes Complications, welcomed more than 2,500 guests to its Geneva estate for the 29th edition of the WPHH. The brand got the opportunity to present its two new buildings serving to accommodate all its watchmaking artisans in a single location, as well as unveiling its new timepieces, including the innovative and atypical Remember collection. In the heart of Genthod from January 14th to 18th, the unique Watchland site overlooking Lake Geneva and Mont-Blanc welcomed more than 2,500 guests for the 29th WPHH (World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie). The watchmaking elite

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met there to discover the two freshly completed buildings on the very spot where Franck Muller has been established for nearly 30 years. This project now makes it possible to accommodate on a single site the 450 craftsmen and employees required to handle each stage of watch production. The two new buildings, which represent an additional 16,000 m2 of floor space, underline the unique character of the Watchland site. Featuring characteristic Swiss architecture, they vividly illustrate the success of the Maison Franck Muller.

Vartan Sirmakes, the watch brand’s Chief Executive Officer said he

“happy to be able to welcome so many people to this unique place and to share the passion that drives us”

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was “happy to be able to welcome so many people to this unique place and to share the passion that drives us”. The participants in the event were able to stroll through the gardens of this undeniably beautiful place, while enjoying encounters inside the two new buildings with the brand’s watchmakers. On this occasion, Franck Muller unveiled several of its 2019 collections, including the Vanguard Crazy Hours™, Vanguard™ Lady Skeleton, Vanguard™ Racing, Vanguard™ Yachting Anchor Skeleton and Skafander. Not to mention a new collection featuring an avant-garde reading of time, named Remember. The Maison Franck Muller is consistently capable of standing out from the crowd by offering ingenious timepieces demonstrating perfectly mastered know-how and expertise. On the occasion of WPHH 2019, it presented its new collection, entitled Remember, which lives up to its name as an invitation to recall, to recollect, everything and at all times. The timepiece offers an unconventional reading of time, in a counterclockwise direction. The applied Arabic numerals gracing a sunray guilloché dial appear in the opposite direction to the conventional order, thanks to a mechanical selfwinding movement that notably offers a 42-hour power reserve. Beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the heart of the watch reinvents the reading of time. The undeniable Master of Grandes Complications blends poetry, technique and precision in this elegant and disconcerting timepiece, available in rose gold, white gold or steel.

Once again, Franck Muller takes an uncommon approach to the very notion of time off the beaten track. An invitation to remember, to cultivate the fabulous and precious power of remembrance. The Master of Complications states with his new collection Remember that no law of physics assures us that time only moves forward in a unidirectional way. A real facelift, this timepiece with its fabulous rejuvenating properties takes us into a world where time flows backwards. The collection Remember thus offers a new reading, presenting the hour figures in the opposite clockwise direction. Historically, the hands have always moved in chronological order from 1 to 12, rotating from left to right at the top of the dial and from right to left at the bottom, following the direction of movement of the shadow projected on the horizontal sundial in the northern hemisphere. Thanks to a self-winding mechanism, the hour, minute and second hands will follow an unconventional rotation, making a circle in a “counter-clockwise” direction.

A romantic complication that invites us to take our time, as if we could extend our most beautiful moments to infinity.

Amazing, disconcerting and elegant, the collection Remember is available in 18k rose or white gold or stainless steel. Its dial, entirely set with diamonds or stamped guilloche with sun pattern, finished with 20 layers of lacquer and the emblematic hologram numerals of the House, will seduce the wrists of women and men. A timepiece that perpetuates the Franck Muller tradition while establishing a new philosophy that invites each aficionado of Haute Horlogerie to proclaim their independence from the established order of time. CJ

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Off the Cuff: Tyson Roset

Guide, sales and repeat =

better customer service

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MR. ROSET CONFESSES HOW TIRED HE IS OF the particular experience in the jewellery industry, where “beautiful elderly couples come into a store to sell their fancy coloured diamonds bought as an investment for their retirement portfolio” and more than often the Jeweller is the bearer of the bad news. In fact, for short term investment, fancy coloured diamonds will take a significant loss., although diamonds have proven to be a performing investment over a long term placement, a very long term.

Tyson Roset stresses that “With my connections and our buying program for heirloom diamonds we have seen all kinds of “investment” parcels”, and often they are non-collectible fancy color stones like a Dark Greenish Yellowish Brown with a ‘no name’ diamond certificate. After purchasing from a fly by night so called diamond wholesaler the only person left to feel their wrath is their local jewelry that was doing a free appraisal and has to explain they bought their investment for a retail price.

Tyson suggests for those in the Jewellery industry to “honestly represent the value of your goods and appraisals, give the truth about what can be expected as far as appreciation. Do not be greedy with your margins; know that one good sale leads to three referrals. Build your reputation of truth; this is the best investment you can make. Hold others accountable; confront, object and share if you see any practices that damage our industry.”

While, Tyson disapproves of Kijiji as an outlet for individual sales, as it devalues the product and is insecure in its proceedings, he recommends for sellers to try an estate counter in the store, where one can split the retail profits with zero $ investments. Or to try your friends in the industry, other jewelers in your buy groups, and also social media jeweler sites. In fact, trying your Canadian wholesaler is also a good idea, as it will be easier for shipping/duties and currencies.

Lastly, an international wholesaler is always looking to clean up in these losses. There are different categories for investment.

Rapaport divides into individual parcels so we can see live time effects of the markets supply and demand of bread and butter stones. True “investment” diamonds are difficult to replace by Size, Colour, Clarity and shape. And so it is a good idea to back up your investment with a quality diamond grading certificate and an inscription.

Tyson’s advice is to try and stay ahead of the trends and know what will be appreciated by your buyers. Ovals are reported to have done very well last year and were appreciated by over 20%, while Cushions and Princess conveyed an inverse

trend. Indeed, trends for this year show an increased demand in Old Cuts, Marquise and Pears. Fancy Brown and Yellows (even with all the mystery around the Argyle mine closure) have been very soft while unique overtone diamonds (J-S colour) are on the rise. Gemstones follow the same rules of supply and demand; Morganite is becoming unexpectedly popular.

Far less profit is made from selling investments than selling romance. That is to say, a diamond will never be worth as much as it is at the moment of proposal or wedding day.

Tyson confesses “We get more traffic from one good referral than 1000 commercials on YouTube. We work with the rarest commodities and there is no reason to exaggerate, although we don’t suggest to undersell yourself either”. Furthermore, he says “We all LOVE to sell but do not undervalue your products, services and especially your time. In the long term, it does not help the industry when someone is having a flash sale. Know your replacement costs, stick to what it is worth and we will all make more.”

Holding your store and your wholesalers to a higher standard is a key, which will also result in your customer’s higher confidence in you as a dependable supplier. Tyson continues by stressing how “your wholesaler should be recognized by organizations like RJO, CJA, CDCC as well as take the responsibly to verify the supply chain. We need to do more than just the Kimberly process to ensure non-conflict and have your suppliers complete a KYC form for you”.

Millennial shoppers love to know the story of their jewelry and the more detailed the better!

Lastly, he suggests that every diamond wholesaler should offer a buyback program as it shows their confidence in their pricing. Any Diamond of Value should have a trustworthy grading certificate. He says “if I see a 2ct non-certified I am sure someone was hiding something from the uneducated customer.” Mr. Roset explains that you should “Do your research, Make a couple calls for one diamond; get a few quotes so you are confidently giving your best price on every call”. He believes that “diamonds do not lose value the second they leave the store; your wholesaler should offer you a return policy that accounts for buyer’s remorse. Remember, there is a limited pool of customers in Canada for wholesalers and so they should give much better customer service than retail as they live by repeat sales.” He finishes by saying that “there is a trend back to customer service in business as online purchases have left customers wanting more. Try to remember this quote from Les Brown “Help others achieve their dreams and you will achieve yours”. CJ

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Feature: Tense Watches

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