CJ Trends 2016 Preview

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The independent voice for the industry since 1879

TRENDS 2016

Canadian Jeweller Magazine Designs 2016 AWARDS that stole the show OF EXCELLENCE

A LEGACY OF RADIANCE

The brilliant history of the DBC

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The first annual North American Jewellery Crime Conference

DESIGNER PROFILE:

NICK KOSS Volund Jewelry

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Bullion mart

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Bullion mart

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www.sohoenamel.com

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TRENDS 2016

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol. 137 / No. 06

Editorial Board

OLI V IER FELICIO C AY L A R A MEY COR R INA MOSCA

Jean-Christophe Bédos Birks, President & CEO

SCOT T JOR DA N DA N IEL L A V IZ Z A R I

Haigo Derian L’Oro Jewellery

CONTRIBUTORS

Gino DeVuono Specialty Watch Resource Joe Gonçalves Time Central

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / cayla@thergmgroup.net Editorial Assistant / corrina@thergmgroup.net Art Director / scott@rivegauchemedia.com Junior Graphic Designer / daniella@thergmgroup.net John Lamont, Duncan Parker, Larry Johnson, Karen Simmons

SALES OLI V IER FELICIO

Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6107 / email: olivier@canadianjeweller.com

Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc.

HEAD OFFICE

920 Yonge Street, Suite 610, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7 tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Phyllis Richard Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. Beth Saunders Canadian Jewellery Group Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd.

MELANIE SETH

Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com

LUC Y HOLDEN

General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net

MONTREAL OFFICE

tel: 514-381-5196

Steve Turac Turac Luxury Group Inc. Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Mart Inc.

SUBSCRIPTION RATES Canada — one year, $50; two years, $85; three years $120. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) plus applicable taxes. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rate (Canada only, for six or more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per year.

CHANGE OF ADDRESS email: circulation@canadianjeweller.com telephone: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392 or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller 920 Yonge St., Suite 610, Toronto, ON. M4W 3C7 PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 920 Yonge St., Ste. 610, Toronto, ON Canada M5R 3K4.

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Stephen Barnes Barnes Jewelers

60 PADS FOR 60-SPACE BEAD TRAYS

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Departments

Contents

44

20

12 EDITOR’S LET TER 14 CONTRIBUTORS 16 WHAT'S ON 18 PRODUCT SHOWCASE

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20 STARWATCH Ringing in the New Season

66 MARKETPL ACE

44 ON THE COVER: NICK KOSS Voloud Jewelry takes innovative designs to mythic heights by Cayla Ramey

74 L AST WORD Dreaming of Sunshine

GET THE NEWS AS IT HAPPENS! FIND IT ON OUR WEBSITE, NEWSLETTER AND BI-MONTHLY DIGITAL EDITION

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72 ST YLE COUNCIL Polish up for the Party

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34

22

Features & Columns

Contents

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22 FEATURE: SHOWCASING INDUSTRY SUCCESS This year's Awards of Excellence winners; from the design winners to the retail winners 34 FEATURE: YEAR IN REVIEW Successes, challenges and developments from the past year 50 FEATURE: YOUR MONEY'S WORTH FINTRAC and your business's security by Cayla Ramey

54 COMPANY PROFILE: HOWARD WEINSTEIN Making The Grade

60 ON DISPL AY Don't Get Your Tinsel in a Tangle

by Corrina Mosca

by Larry Johnson

56 FEATURE: BUILDING A BARRIER North America Jewellery crime conference

62 GEMS & GEMMOLOGY An Inspired Connection

by Paula Reid

by Duncan Parker

58 FEATURE: A LEGACY OF R ADIANCE Diamond Bourse of Canada

64 JVC REPORT The Old Bait and Switch

by Karen Simmons

by John Lamont

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Awards of Excellence

Showcasing Industry Excellence As the voice of the Canadian jewellery industry since 1879, Canadian Jeweller Magazine is the trusted news source for jewellers across the nation. This makes our Awards of Excellence an extremely prestigious forum through which designers can solidify their positions as forerunners in the trade. MEET THIS YEAR’S WINNERS photograpy by Neeva Kedem

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BEST CANADIAN DIAMOND DESIGN

Andrei Jiliaev, Jiliaev Jewellery Collection THE PIECE: Andre’s “The Family Tree” ring features a 9.04-carat diamond that was sliced into two unequal parts. The first is an oval brilliant-cut 4.15-carat gem, and the other is a pear-shape, brilliant-cut 0.79-carat stone. THE ARTIST: An award-winning artist in both jewellery and architecture, Andrei is the resident designer for Jiliaev Jewellery in Vancouver. Over the years, he has amassed a long list of highly esteemed clientele, including celebrities, luminaries and the heads of various states and countries.

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Awards of Excellence

BEST PLATINUM DESIGN Linda Penwarden, Penwarden Fine Jewellery THE PIECE: This cocktail ring features a 3.36-carat oval pink sapphire, 0.66 carats worth of round brilliant diamonds and a stunning platinum setting. THE ARTIST: Linda Penwarden has over 20 years of experience in the Toronto jewellery industry. She developed her skills in fine art at the Ontario College of Art and Design and continued her studies at George Brown College as a goldsmith. She is known for her attention to detail and exceptional craftsmanship.

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BEST PEARL DESIGN

Nick Koss, Volund Jewellery THE PIECE: Crafted with platinum and 18-karat yellow and white gold, Nick’s “Lion” earrings feature glittering diamonds and Japanese Akoya pearls. THE ARTIST: Born in Russia to parents of Swedish and Finnish descent, Nick Koss can trace his family roots to the jewellers of the Imperial Russian Court. Inspired by his family heritage, he founded Volund to create modern interpretations of historic art.

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Awards of Excellence

BEST COLOURED GEMSTONE DESIGN Lucy Necrasova, Myerson's Limited THE PIECE: Lucy’s whimsical “Sunflower” ring features a bezel-set, 12.54-carat amethyst and 18-karat yellow and white gold. THE ARTIST: A graduate of George Brown College in the field of Jewellery Arts and Gemmology, Lucy’s pieces include one-of-a-kind design and high-quality materials. She has more than a decade of experience with Myerson’s Limited, specializing in 3D CAD design, development and production of in-house jewellery.

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Awards of Excellence

RETAILER OF THE YEAR Bogart’s Jewellers With eight locations across Atlantic Canada, Bogart’s Jewellers is a trusted Canadian source for top-quality products and outstanding customer service. The retailer carries a vast selection of gorgeous jewellery, brand-name timepieces, and trendy gift ideas, allowing for elegance to fit into anyone’s budget.

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Awards of Excellence

Best Canadian Diamond Design Runner up Shiv Chokhani, Karat Fine Jewellery THE PIECE: Set in a 18-karat white Canadian gold ring, the centre fits a 0.95-carat square cut Forevermark diamond. The sides are accented with 0.95 carats of round brilliant cut and baguette shade diamonds. THE ARTIST: A Graduate Jeweler Gemologist (GJG) from Gemological Institute of America, and FGA from Gemmological Association of Great Britail and a Certificate Gemmologist from Gemmological Institute of India. He fuses his global influences and artistic inspiration for unique wearable pieces.

Best Platinum Design Runner up Jeff Nechka, Premier Gems LTD THE PIECE: This 950 platinum engagement ring with hand engraved accents, features 2.00 faceted untreated purple sapphire, and 0.15-carat fancy baguette cut diamonds. THE ARTIST: After training at the Gemological institute of America, Jeff started Premier Gems. His vision developed from his passionate world wide pursuit of gemology and design. His mastery of the art of gem and diamond cutting propel his creative design skills to new levels.

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Best Pearl Design Runner up Iouri Jiliaev, Jilaev Jewellery Collection THE PIECE: The Moon Light Bliss ring boasts 18-karat yellow and 19-karat white gold. In the center is South Sea 16mm round pearl, surrounded by 3.9-carat, 300 blue sapphires. When positioned horizontally, 1.5-carat diamonds are visible to complete the harmonious design. THE ARTIST: Iouri is the co-founder of Jilaev Jewellery Collection, and a master goldsmith. He has long been developing his technique allowing him to continue earning awards for his craft. He has a eye quality, intricacies and vivid projection to stand out amongst the demand for oneof-a-kind jewellery.

Best Coloured Gemstone Design Runner up Iouri Jiliaev, Jilaev Jewellery Collection THE PIECE: These Spring Pallet earrings feature a mix of gems set in 19-karat white gold. The gems include 0.50-carat aquamarine, 2-carat amethyst, 1.50-carat green garnet, 1.50-carat peridot, and 2-carat diamonds. THE ARTIST: Iouri is the co-founder of Jilaev Jewellery Collection, and a master goldsmith. He has long been developing his technique allowing him to continue earning awards for his craft. He has a eye quality, intricacies and vivid projection to stand out amongst the demand for one-of-a-kind jewellery.

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Awards of Excellence

Canadian designs stole the show at the Great Jewellery Heist FOR THIS YEAR’S AWARDS OF EXCELLENCE (AOE), we teamed up with Bridgepoint Active Healthcare, part of the Sinai Health System, in support of its 6th Annual Great Jewellery Heist. This exclusive luncheon, held at Toronto’s Ritz-Carlton Hotel on October 28, hosted 450 of the most influential Canadian businesswomen in finance, marketing, fashion and retail. The Heist also featured exclusive silent and live auctions, live entertainment, and the announcement of our AOE Winners. Not only did this partnership allow us to raise awareness about a great charitable event; it enlightened Toronto’s elite about the extraordinary talent that is harnessed in our nation’s jewellery industry. “The Great Jewellery Heist is on the cutting edge of bringing jewellery into the fundraising scene,” says Leesa Butler, founder of Divine Lab Inc. and contributor to the Great Jewellery Heist. “All the focus of the event is on jewellery, so it’s very exciting for us to celebrate the amazing designers we have in Canada. Moreover, we get to expose the many women who support Bridgepoint to a vast amount of designers they may not have previously been aware of.” We’d like to thank everyone who assisted us in supporting this wonderful cause. From everyone who submitted pieces for the auction to those who competed in the Awards of Excellence, your contributions helped to make the event a stunning success.

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CINDY YEUNG of Emperor Watch and Jewellery is as passionate about her family business as she is her customer relationships, and it shows.

Were you reluctant at all about getting into the family business? My father wanted to immerse me early on, but I wasn’t ready. Then at 21, an amazing diamond caught my eye and my passion was born.

Then what happened? On the recommendation of a friend, I went to study at GIA in California. The jewelry business isn’t easy to learn and even harder to master. GIA offers the most comprehensive training and education anywhere.

Is there a special piece of jewelry that has been important in your life? The necklace I designed of yellow diamonds and pearls for my wedding. My husband presented it to me on our wedding day.

What advice would you give someone starting out? Always remember that this business is very personal. My customers have become friends, I enjoy being a part of important moments in their lives. They rely on my knowledge and integrity, the same way I rely on GIA—the international standard. GIA reports provide security and confidence, not only for our customers but our company too.

GIA would like to gratefully acknowledge those using our resources to further worldwide expertise in gems. Read Cindy’s full interview at GIA.edu

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CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE IS ALSO DIGITAL TO READ THE LATEST ISSUES ON YOUR TABLET OR PHONE look for them on AppStore or Google Play store

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marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Olivier Felicio (416) 203-7900 ext. 6107 or e-mail olivier@canadianjeweller.com.

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marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Olivier Felicio (416) 203-7900 ext. 6107 or e-mail olivier@canadianjeweller.com.

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• Cutters of Rough Diamonds • Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes • Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Olivier Felicio (416) 203-7900 ext. 6107 or e-mail olivier@canadianjeweller.com.

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BOX AD ORDER FORM 2018 BUYERS’ GUIDE

YES, I’LL TAKE

BOX AD(S).

Contact

Title

Company Address City

Province

Postal Code

Website

Email

Tel.

Fax

ARTWORK:

ORDER:

Please indicate how many you wish to purchase, then add applicable sales taxes to the subtotal

• Single Box ad: 1.8” by 2.3” • Double Box ad: 1.8” by 4.6”

x $265 for profile box (30 words max) Please repeat 2017 box ad

x $465 for single black & white box

Make changes to 2017 box ad

x $565 for colour image box

(please specify below)

x $865 for black & white double box ad

New box ad

x $1010 for colour double box ad

(please provide box ad wording below)

*Send creative material to production@rivegauchemedia.com

subtotal: add GST:

Please print clearly and capitalize only those letters intended to appear as capitals in your ad.

(GST# 85977 9027 RT0001)

add QST: (1214473948)

Total: PAYMENT: VISA

MC

AMEX

(Payable to Rive Gauche Media Inc.)

Account number Expiry

Date

Card holder Signature Box ad(s) will not be accepted if payment does not accompany order, unless prior credit arrangements have been approved.

SECTION: Associations

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Suppliers

Send to: Canadian Jeweller 920 Yonge St., Suite 610, Toronto, ON, M4W 3C7 Tel: 416-203-7900 ext. 6128 Fax: 416-703-6392 E-mail: info@canadianjeweller.com www.canadianjeweller.com

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Canadian Jeweller Buyers’ Guide 201[ Listing Update List your company FREE OF CHARGE in our Canadian Jeweller Magazine Buyers’ Guide.

Please enter company information: Company name: ____________________________________________________________________________ Address: __________________________________________________________________________________ Telephone number: ___________________________ Website: _____________________________________ Toll free number: _____________________________ Email: _______________________________________ Fax number: __________________________________ This company is: ❏ Association (includes institutions, organizations, trade shows) ❏ Supplier (includes manufacturers, distributors, services) ❏ Designer ❏ Other – please specify _____________________________________________ Brand name index: If you have brand names that you wish to add to your listing, please list below. Examples: “Accutron” or “Bulova” __________________________________________________________________________________________ Please list permanent branch offices: __________________________________________________________________________________________ Head of company: __________________________________________________________________________ Head of advertising/marketing: ______________________________________________________________ Name of person competing this form: _________________________________________________________ Title: _____________________________________________________________________________________ Signature: _______________________________________________

Date: ___________________________

Check one of the following: ❏ I want to ensure I stand out from my competitors. Please reserve a box ad. ❏ I am interested in finding out how easy it is to advertise in the Buyers’ Guide. Please have a representative call me.

:POHF Street, Suite 0, Toronto ON . 8 $ • P: 416.203.7900 • F: 416.703.6392 • JOGP@canadianjeweller.com

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Last Word

Dreaming of

Sunshine Made of the finest quality, this Crescendo signature ring is available inlaid with 10-karat, 14-karat, or 18-karat gold or premium platinum. The stunning contrast between the yellow and white diamonds makes this piece an effortlessly classic look. A signature piece in any jewellery box, this ring will light up any room while we dream of warmer weather. ($4,995)

74

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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is a trademark owned by HACHETTE FILIPACCHI PRESSE SA, Paris, France.

Discover the world of ELLE on ellejewelry.com elle@paj.ca Distributed by PAJ Canada Company

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Mirage Creations Inc. 221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4 Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677 www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com

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