CJ Winter 2019-2020 by Canadian Jeweller Magazine

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine WINTER 2019/2020 ISSUE

BE THE STYLIST Los Angeles Fashion Week

TRENDING Great Heights launches A New Era of Lab Grown Diamonds with ethical standards and unparalleled customization

42709013 | 920 YONGE STREET SUITE 608 TORONTO ONTARIO M4W 3C7 / $25

LAB GROWN

DIAMONDS C

MONIL SHAH: VALOUR LAB GROWN DIAMONDS HOW MILLENNIALS ARE CHANGING THE DIAMOND INDUSTRY

UE 2017

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The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine Canadian Jeweller Magazine WINTER 2019/2020 ISSUE

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

ESTA BLISHED 1879 ESTABLISHED 1879

Vol. 138 / No. 02

Vol. 140 / No. 03

OLI V IER FELICIO C AY L A R A MEY COR R INA MOSCA

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / cayla@thergmgroup.net Editorial Assistant / corrina@thergmgroup.net

/ scott@rivegauchemedia.com and Thoughtsmith / olivier@canadianjeweller.com S C O TFELICIO T J O R D AFounder N Art Director OLIVIER Graphic Designer / daniella@thergmgroup.net DA N I E L L A V I Z Z A Content RI Director / diana@thergmgroup.net DIANA BERDICHEVSKY

MARCELO RAMOS Design & Art Director / marcelo@thergmgroup.net C O N T R I B U T O R S Christine Dwane, Breanne Forbes, Larry Johnson, John Lamont, NAVNIDHI JOSHI Customer Service / customerservice@thergmgroup.net

Shawna Lee, Joelle Litt, Mark Lutley, Duncan Parker, Karen Simmons

CONTRIBUTORS Isabella Yan, Dave Gordon, and Karen Durrie SALES OLI V IER FELICIO

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6107 / email: olivier@canadianjeweller.com

Editorial Board EDITE M A RTINS

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6112 / email: edite@thergmgroup.net

Joe Goncalves Jean-Christophe Bedos Beth Saunders 920 Yonge Street, Suite 610, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3C7 Central Birks, President &HCEO Canadian Jewellery Group E A D O F F I C E Time

Cover Monil Shah Vandan Associates Inc.

tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Marco Miserendino Haigo Derian Steve Turac Controller &Italienne Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com P.M. Inc. L’Oro JewelleryM E L A N I E S E T H Bijouterie Turac Luxury Group Inc. LUC Y HOLDEN

General Customer Care Manager / lucy@thergmgroup.net

Richard Rooney Gino DeVuono tel: 514-381-5196 M O NResource T R E A L O F F I C E Bogart’s Jewellery Specialty Watch

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Photography Diana Berdichevsky

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Art Direction Marcelo Ramos

www.canadianjeweller.com @canadian_jeweller CJMagazine cj_mag

At GIA, gems endure even more pressure. Science and discovery underpins everything we do. Since 1931, the Gemological Institute of America® has been unearthing the truth about gems and creating industry standards. With unwavering commitment to accurate and unbiased methodologies, our dedicated research staff advances the knowledge the industry and consumers need to protect confidence in gems and jewelry. Our discoveries are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu

BENEFICIATION

EDUCATION

Ensuring the Public Trust Through Nonprofit Service Since 1931

INSTRUMENTS

LABORATORY

RESEARCH

Departments, Features & Columns

Contents 38

16 EDITOR’S LETTER Go Realize the New Thing 18 CONTRIBUTORS Isabella Yan and more 20 WHAT’S ON A look at the upcoming events 22 BE THE STYLIST Los Angeles Fashion Week

30 PRODUCT SHOWCASE Products from the hottest brands 38 COVER STORY Lab Grown Diamonds with Monil Shah 48 TRENDING Casio, Citizen, Daniel Wellington, Inika Organic, and more 54 DESIGNER PROFILE Canadian’s talent 56 SPONSOR CONTENT Silver & Gold with United PMR, Inc. 58 NEWS A Jeweller that Knows De Beers Entering Lab Grown Diamond Market with “Lightbox”

What’s in a diamond? 64 MARKETPLACE Check this out 66 LAST WORD Stephen Webster Jitterbug collection

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Editor’s Letter

Go Realize the New Thing Olivier Felicio, Editor-in-Chief

Studies confirmed that in less than three years 50% of restaurant revenues will be coming from food ordering apps. What peaked my interest on this subject was not that most people will be utilizing these apps but what this could mean for your google and digital marketing plans. The way I interpret this is that consumers, including myself, are creatures of habit. If I know where to get what I need and I always buy from the same apps, as a consumer I don’t need to google anything. So how do I, as a retailer, drive more customers through my doors if the app business is taking over? For this topic, I foresee focusing my attention on three main topics. First, am I listed in as many buying apps as possible? Not only that, but does it also mean that my vendors have the same access as well? If so, are they circumventing me via amazon and similar platforms? Probably yes. You cannot avoid it. Secondly, are my options limited? Should I have my own app? Again, this is yes and no. You could have

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your own app, however, you need to keep in mind that consumers are already going to where they’re familiar with. All payment methods and info is already secured via those platforms. People don’t like the idea of having their credit card number registered in too many places. That is certainly a major factor in explaining the centralize app idea. Third, I have preached it and will always preach it. Traditional, traditional, traditional. Go back to traditional media to build your store as a brand and use the internet as a partner to promote your content, printed or otherwise. Don’t fight it. Traditional is cheap these days, therefore it provides easy access and you can localize your effort. So, go out there and sponsor small local events, shake hands, embrace gorilla marketing and drive people to you because they have an emotional connection to you and your business. At last, gorilla is not a solution but part of the solution, your listings and reviews are now your most valuable asset.

Contributors

Closing, Retiring Downsizing? Not sure of the options?

Diana Berdichevsky Diana Berdi holds a degree in Creative Writing and English from York University. She’s had a fruitful career as a director of commercials and joined the IHR/ Viva family as a photographer, writer and editor, combining her skills and experience into the world of online and print publication.

Isabella Yan MA, A.G, Cert GA Sales & Marketing Executive Isabella is a London born gemologist, antique jewellery lover and writer based in Bangkok. She currently handles the PR, Sales & Marketing for the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences, a leading private gemological school and laboratory in Bangkok. Isabella is an Associate Editor for the Bangkok Gems & Jewellery magazine and has contributed publications in the ICA’s InColor Magazine & Jewellery Outlook, a UK based global online trade magazine.

We can help. Dave Gordon Dave’s writing work has appeared in more than 120 publications around the world, including Washington Times, National Post, Globe and Mail, BBC News, Baltimore Sun, Quartz, and Lifestyles.

Silverman’s Consultants have delivered sales strategy, direction, and solutions to jewellery stores of every size. Whether you’d like a transitional plan, retirement strategy, or a total liquidation, Silverman Consulting & Retail Services has the custom-made solution to create your successful sale event.

Give us a call to discuss your options.

Karen Durrie Karen Durrie is a freelance writer living in Calgary, Alberta. She has written on a variety of topics for the Calgary Herald, Globe and Mail, StarMetro Calgary, Avenue Calgarymagazine, and numerous custom publications, such as the Calgary Foundation’s Spur. A graduate of Mount Royal University’s journalism program, Karen has experience as a beat reporter, freelance journalist, editor and public relations communicator, and has authored a number of books for the children’s educational market.

SILVERMAN CONSULTING & RETAIL SERVICES Saskatoon & Toronto | 1-888-955-1069 office@silvermancanada.com www. silvermancanada.com

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What’s On

Gear up for the year by staying informed on what shows are bound to be the biggest hits in 2019. Also, be sure to check out canadianjeweller.com for a full online calendar listing of the major shows for 2019.

CALGARY GEMSTONE JEWELLERY SHOW Silver Street Jewellers is on our way back - with more stock than ever, giving us a selection that is unrivaled in Canada. Thousands of unique and one of a kind pieces found in one place, all at affordable prices! You don’t want to miss this exclusive event. With over 40,000 pieces of beautiful one of a kind .925 Sterling Silver jewellery, set with over 100 different types of genuine gemstones - ALL up to 85% OFF! Visit us and make everyone happy on your Christmas list! Stay tuned for our Show Special....

Infos www.silverstreetjewellers.ca

First 100 customers receive a FREE .925 Sterling Silver chain everyday (18 inches - valued at $25). No purchase necessary.

Sat, 14 Dec 2019, 12:00 PM Sun, 15 Dec 2019, 5:00 PM

FREE PARKING

Best Western Plus Village Park In 1804 Crowchild Trail NW Calgary, Alberta

FREE ADMISSION

J.W. Histed Diamonds Ltd. Vancouver, B.C. rounds “full cut” tapered baguettes rounds “single cut”

pear oval marquise

half moon heart princess cushion grooved princess radiant straight baguettes trapezoid trillian asscher natural colour rose cuts emerald treated colour

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Be The Stylist

LOS ANGELES FASHION WEEK Powered by Art Hearts Fashion

Dulce Bestia designer and philanthropist, Skye Drynan, made her LAFW debut alongside Heatherette designer Traver Rains (as Creative Director) on October 17th, to a packed runway at the historic Majestic Downtown. The show was part of the Art Hearts Fashion.

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As Skye Drynan shares: THIS IS THE PREMIER COLLECTION FOR DULCE BESTIA. WE DRESS THE LEADER OF THE PACK. DARING & ADVENTUROUS OUR DISCERNING CUSTOMER SHINES. WE BELIEVE THE BEAST IN YOU REPRESENTS THE BEST IN YOU.

Charles Garnier – Sterling Silver CG “Diamonique” Rhodium Plated CZ 31mm Link Hoop. $ 220

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ELLE Jewelry – Sterling Silver ELLE “Midnight” RHD/RSGP GEN BLK Agate & WHT MOP 28+2”. $ 249

Charles Garnier – Sterling Silver CG “Diamonique” Rhodium Plated Link CZ 17+2” Cost $52 / Retail $130

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Charles Garnier – Sterling Silver CG “DIAMONIQUE” Rhodium Plated Link CZ Cuff. $ 180

STEELX – Genuine Leather and Black Emamel Cuff Spring 2020 Collection. $ 65

ELLE Jewelry – Sterling Silver ELLE “MIDNIGHT” RHD/RSGP WHT MOP & BLK AGATE 6.5+1.5”. $ 229

Reign by PAJ – Reign Sterling Silver Rhodium Plated “Red Carpet” Marquise Ear Diamondlite CZ RD Post. $ 125

COLOUR

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STYLE SILVER

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Product Showcase

New B2B website to better serve you! We are excited to announce our brand new e-commerce website. It features many B2B functionalities that will enhance your shopping experience. Here is what you can expect. Our newly designed website includes: • B2B log in access. • New and existing products. • User-friendly interface to make your ordering easier. For more information, feel free to contact our Marketing Director mike@rnbjewellery.com.

Diamond Collection The RNB Diamond Collection has been the foundation for over a decade. You can expect to find designs that emanates style, luxury and quality while remaining accessible to the everyday consumer. It includes jewellery programs made of 14K Gold.

Color Collection Colour is what gives things life, feeling, and emotion. Discover a contemporary twist on a classic design with our 14K Colour Collection. This collection includes rings, bracelets, pendants, and earrings.

10k Collection The 10K Collection is designed to offer our customers a vast selection of trendy and classy jewellery to meet every taste and every budget. Over the last few years, our 10K collection has become more and more popular showing constant turnover for our customers. You can expect to find diamond, gemstone & pearl pieces that will have people talking.

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Fashion forward design to mix & match your own look.

The JOY line was introduced into RNB in 2016 and paved the way for the trendsetters. Since The JOY line was introducedthen, into RNB 2016 JOYinhas quickly grown into an independent and paved the way for the trendsetters. Since brand and has modernized the way we look at then, JOY has quickly grownjewellery into an independent today. brand and has modernized the way we look at It features trendy shapes and stackable pieces; jewellery today.

available in white, yellow and rose gold. The JOY Collection was designed to cater the glamorous It features trendy shapes andthe stackable pieces; fashionista. available in white, yellow and rose gold. The JOY collection was designed to cater the glamorous We believe that jewellery should not only be luxurious, but also modern, trendy and joyful. fashionista. We believe that jewellery should not only be luxurious, but also modern, trendy and joyful.

joy collection

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Product Showcase

Just Cavalli

Just Cavalli watches emerge for their fresh, dynamic and original style lines. For Just Cavalli, the watch is not just a simple accessory, but represents the desire to give sparkle and shine to one’s look, but with simplicity and practicality. Just Cavalli watches are designed and built for young and dynamic minds, always looking for something new. In a Just Cavalli watch, the precision of the functioning mechanisms meets the design and creativity of the Italian designer to create a unique and inimitable wrist accessory. Individual expression of influential women all over the world. www.aiontime.it/marchio/just-cavalli/

Yeprem

Innovative, revolutionary, unique and diuerent. YEPREM’s timeless value emerges from a well-grounded history and expertise in jewellery craftsmanship. YEPREM’s products are a blend of creativity and refinement, which aim at enriching the individual expression of influential women all over the world. www.yepremjewellery.com

GIA

Put your store on the map and be sure customers find your business by registering on GIA’s Retailer Lookup. Through a city or postal code search, the Lookup allows customers to nd local establishments that offer GIA-graded stones or have GIA-trained staff. Sign up today through the Retailer Support Program website at retailer. www.GIA.edu

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GROW NOW, NOT LATER STRATEGIC BRAND MANAGEMENT STRUCTURED TO GROW YOUR BUSINESS.

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> eradbrandmanagement.com

Contact: 647 363 5802 ext.3 • 412E, 1255 Phillips Square • Montreal • QC • H3B 3G1

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by Diana Berdichevsky

Diamond

lab Grown

Cover Story

MONIL SHAH VALOUR LAB GROWN DIAMONDS HOW THE NEXT GENERATION IS INFLUENCING THE DIAMOND INDUSTRY

t six foot three, Monil Shah strikes a passionate and enthusiastic figure when we

meet him on a crisp fall afternoon at his downtown office: the well established Vandan Associates, a diamond wholesaler founded by his parents in 1993. Joining the company three years ago, Monil carefully observed how his parents and other industry leaders interact with clients, has learned how to inspect diamonds under the wing of his mother and slowly started integrating new technologies to help grow the business. Completing a Bachelors in Management and Organizational Studies specializing in Consumer Behaviour in 2016, Monil has always been keen to understand how consumers behave and interact. His experience in the business combined with his understanding of the MILLENIAL and GEN Z’S EXPECTATIONS and desires has allowed him to spot opportunities and shifts in the industry well before they were welcomed into mainstream conversation.

However, it wasn’t until Monil’s mother, Sangita, insisted he attend the Hong Kong Jewellery Trade Show that his wheels really started turning. One seminar hosted by the Hong Kong Gemological Association: “THE FUTURE OF LAB GROWN DIAMONDS,” left such an impression that Monil returned to Toronto eager to convince his mother that lab grown diamonds were the next BIG OPPORTUNITY. However, traditional beliefs were hard to bend as his idea was quickly rejected. It would be a while yet before anyone would consider welcoming lab grown as a potential disruptor in the industry. However, as time passed and as frequent requests for lab grown diamonds started to pour in, it was clear there was a gap in the marketplace that needed to be filled. Today, Monil is the proud founder of VALOUR LAB GROWN DIAMONDS. Not only is business expanding through word of mouth and a strong online presence but major jewellery accounts on SOCIAL MEDIA are driving the demand for this affordable alternative, pushing people through Monil’s doors. What’s driving the demand? Clearly, the showcasing of larger diamond rings and jewellery has been inherently spoiling expectations and pushing the consumer to seek “bigger diamonds”. Monil’s finger is on the pulse of what’s trending through SOCIAL MEDIA (PARTICULARLY INSTAGRAM) and he’s embracing new technology allowing for a unique customization experience, adding convenience to an increasingly demanding consumer. This access to convenience is driving today’s buyer expectations and their decision making process. With the options of convenience and competitive cost being offered, Monil doesn’t see LAB GROWN DIAMONDS GOING AWAY any time soon. In fact, it is predicted that the lab grown industry will be worth $15 billion by 2035. Needless to say, today he is met with a lot less resistance. We sat down with Monil to gather his insight into this expanding part of the market. He was candid, articulate and knowledgeable well beyond his years. Clearly, the YOUNGER GENERATION is pushing beyond the foundations of the past and paving a brave NEW FUTURE.

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LAB GROWN DIAMONDS. REACHING THE INSTAGRAM GENERATION

WHY VALOUR The LAB GROWN movement has quickly gained support from some influential names of our time. From celebrities like LEONARDO DICAPRIO to our own national icon DRAKE who recently received a lab grown diamond encrusted blazer from the RAPTORS, the perception of these alternatives is slowly changing. Whether it be conflict diamonds mixed into the trade, the substantial collective carbon footprint of diamond mines around the world and the simple reality that diamonds are not as rare as they are marketed to be, the natural diamond industry has been faced with many avenues of conflict in the past decade. This led me to choose the name Valour. VALOUR IS A MILITARY TERM DEFINED AS: STRENGTH IN THE FACE OF CONFLICT. Aligning with my vision and values, I thought this was the perfect name for a brand that could potentially make a positive and combative footprint in the diamond industry.

The reason behind why large online stores like Brilliant Earth are doing so well is due to their transparency. They’re letting everyone know where their diamonds are coming from. Initially, we were thinking about an eco-friendly, sustainability approach in our branding when we first moved into the marketplace. After gaining feedback from our retailers, we understood why the majority of consumers are truly buying lab grown diamonds. It’s primarily because they simply want a bigger diamond. That’s why our tagline is now “GROW YOUR LOVE”. Grow Your Love embraces the notion that you’re able to gift a larger diamond without having to empty your wallet.

Customers are walking into retail stores with images of jewellery designs that they’ve loved on Instagram, giving retailers an opportunity to embrace a new generation of consumers ready to spend on what they want. If retailers are ready to adapt to the new social economic voice there is huge potential there. Secondly, when customers are coming into your space they already have their budget in mind. Retailers must adjust to the idea that a Valour Lab Grown Diamond could be the alternative in order to satisfy their clients’ needs. The “value of natural diamonds” has not penetrated the Millennial/ Generation Z mindset. Though they still want a quality product, they are smart shoppers and are online comparing and evaluating their options. Shoppers now have an open playing field of shopping. That’s what is being highlighted on social media as well. Consumers are looking to simply to get a beautiful piece of jewellery and focusing on getting the most bang for their buck.

THE INSTAGRAM EFFECT The search for the perfect engagement ring has become a “TEAM EFFORT”. One partner bombarding the other with ring designs and styles of what

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they’ve come across over the years. The couple understands that since they’re going to be spending on these rings, they want to get it right the first time. So in that sense, SOCIAL MEDIA has really come into play as a source of inspiration and as a trend setter. In particular, INSTAGRAM HAS TRANSFORMED ITSELF INTO OUR INDUSTRY’S BIGGEST SALESMAN bringing a new generation of customers with non-traditional shopping habits, tastes and diamond needs. Our world’s continued obsession with customization has also contributed to the gravitation towards lab grown diamonds. We can go to Chipotle and create our perfect burritos from the type of tortilla we want all the way to an extra drop of hot sauce. WE GET EXACTLY WHAT WE WANT. The same has been highlighted in the team effort of purchasing an engagement ring. It allows for the consumer to replicate what their partner has sent them on Instagram. This is where Valour Lab Grown Diamonds are brought up in the conversation. If your partner has sent you an image of a beautiful two-carat oval diamond ring, the last thing you want to hear is “no, unfortunately your budget is too low for that”. Instead of increasing your budget, you can now select a two-carat oval shaped Valour Lab Grown diamond, fitting your partner’s preferences and spending 40-50% LESS THAN THE NATURAL COMPARISON. There are two main resistance points with retailers. The first, they’ve already INVESTED into natural diamonds. All retailers have a significant amount of natural diamonds either in their vaults or in showcases. Obviously, once you’ve invested, you have to sell it; but as lab grown diamonds come into play and it’s in the showcases at the stores, retailers FEAR is that they’re going to lose natural diamond sales because of these other options. THE REALITY is, the majority of consumers are now RESEARCHING ONLINE prior to visiting your store. They’re knowledgeable and prepared. If you don’t have options at your store, there are definitely plenty of options online and you never know when you’re going to be losing out on a sale. So I always say, IT’S BETTER TO COMPETE WITH YOURSELF THAN WITH SOMEONE ELSE.

“WHEN CUSTOMERS ARE COMING INTO YOUR SPACE THEY ALREADY HAVE THEIR BUDGET.”

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The second is value. Many retailers have been skeptical about what’s going to happen with the value of lab grown diamonds. The answer to this question is still unknown but at the same time we don’t know what’s going to happen to the value of natural diamonds either. What’s been exposed in the industry, online and in news articles, is that there’s about a quadrillion tons of diamond rough hidden beneath the earth’s surface and if mining companies are mining and cutting on a daily basis, natural diamonds will always be in abundance. As we progress into the FUTURE, the traditional mindset consumers have that “diamonds are rare,” will slowly evaporate and they’ll gravitate towards what they see online and on SOCIAL MEDIA, merely focusing on the beauty of the diamond. We all buy luxury cars knowing that the value of these huge purchases drops by around 50-60% over a five year span. Essentially diamonds are in a similar position, both natural and lab grown. As the next generation decides, I believe the decision will be based on beauty more so than the monetary value. At Vandan Associates, we still offer both natural and lab grown diamonds at affordable and COMPETITIVE MARKET PRICES. At the same time, I strongly encourage retailers to do the same and OFFER BOTH OPTIONS SIDE BY SIDE. Let’s say you have 1-carat natural and you have a 1.50-carat Valour lab grown diamond at the same price, offer both and let your client make the decision. Since consumers are more attuned to marketing tactics, the traditional “push” sales method is not working as well as they did in the past. In my opinion, A NON-BIAS APPROACH IS ALWAYS THE BEST PLAY when introducing an alternative, especially one that is so disruptive.

“LET THEM MAKE THE DECISION.”

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THE TRADITIONAL MINDSET Traditionally, the mindset was for reselling. What if I want to resell this 20 years down the road? It is well-known that the natural diamond/ lab grown buyer is not getting ANYTHING EVEN CLOSE to the value that they paid for. So that’s kind of the premise where, you know, you should not really be looking to sell your product as an investment tactic but rather BASED ON THE BEAUTY OF THE PURCHASE. When your client buys a high-end purse they base their purchase on the look and quality of the bag, not on the resale value. Now, what is valuable is the feeling of having a beautiful diamond without having to spend a fortune. Like valuing an Uber ride over a taxi when considering convenience, an AirBnB stay over a hotel when seeking availability, consumers will value Valour lab grown diamonds over natural diamonds when seeking a bigger and more affordable option. Another misconception is thinking that lab grown diamonds are fake. JUST BECAUSE IT’S GROWN IN A LAB, IT SHOULD NOT BE CATEGORIZED AS A FAKE DIAMOND. Once people REALIZE that lab grown diamonds are VISUALLY and PHYSICALLY IDENTICAL TO DIAMONDS mined from the earth- consumer minds start to change. For example, if you think about a test tube baby versus a baby born from natural conception, there is no difference between the children in the two fertilization methods, the only difference is the environment in which they were fertilized. Similarly, the only difference between Earth-Mined Diamonds and Valour Lab Grown Diamonds is their respective origins and how they were created.

“IT’S BETTER TO COMPETE WITH YOURSELF THAN WITH SOMEONE ELSE.”

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SPEAK THE LANGUAGE A Valour lab grown diamond TAKES 30-40 DAYS to grow inside a gas chamber. It’s mimicking what’s happening inside the Kimberlite Pipes naturally - the high heat and pressure. After this process is complete, the rough lab grown diamond is taken to a cutting facility and cut and polished the same way as a natural diamond. BY USING THOSE TERMS you’re showcasing to your clientele that there is a process that goes into this. Terminology such as LAB GROWN AND LAB-CREATED is much more valuable on an informative and transparency standpoint. In terms of other sales tips, there are many retailers that use a method where they’ve placed both options side by side and ask, “WHICH ONE DO YOU THINK IS NATURAL, WHICH ONE’S LAB GROWN?” At this point customers will begin guessing and end up having no clue in differentiating between the two. This method starts a conversation between the consumer(s)/ partners on whether to consider this as an option. It’s a very interesting method with limited bias as the consumer begins to think for themselves.

CHOOSING A SUPPLIER When looking for a supplier, I encourage retailers to focus on PRICE, QUALITY, AND SERVICE. In our market today, the price is extremely important due to online competition. There are specific price points that need to be targeted when purchasing in order for you to make your MARGINS, combat competition, and increase word of mouth for your business; and the same for natural diamonds, PRICE AND QUALITY ARE VERY IMPORTANT. Find a supplier that is able to SEND YOU OPTIONS on “MEMO/CONSIGNMENT”. Let’s say as a retailer you have has a 1.20-carat oval diamond inquiry and you’re reaching out to your supplier. Are they giving you enough options for you to show to your clients? Let’s say they’re giving you three options in that 1.20carat range in different colours and clarities. Having that FLEXIBILITY with your supplier is very important. Method of offering multiple options is very common when dealing with natural diamonds, so why should customers feel limited when it comes to lab grown?

“VALOUR IS A MILITARY TERM DEFINED AS: STRENGTH IN THE FACE OF CONFLICT. ALIGNING WITH MY VISION AND VALUES, I THOUGHT THIS WAS THE PERFECT NAME FOR A BRAND THAT COULD POTENTIALLY MAKE A POSITIVE AND COMBATIVE FOOTPRINT IN THE DIAMOND INDUSTRY.”

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LAST BUT NOT LEAST IS QUALITY. Having lab grown diamonds that meet the appropriate 4Cs of buying a diamond - CUT, COLOUR, CLARITY, AND CARAT WEIGHT - is paramount. For instance, our company uses reputable laboratories such as GIA and Gemscan for our natural diamonds and the New York-based IGI for our laboratory grown diamonds. Although we’re using IGI, we’re still making sure that our merchandise is accurately graded. The last thing we would want is a client to do is buy a diamond graded as an SI1 based on the report, but later find out that it has a prominent black carbon on the center of the table! GOING INTO THE FUTURE I see this time as an EXCITING OPPORTUNITY FOR THE INDUSTRY. There will always be change, even more so now with technology constantly improving. The future of our industry is unknown, but it IS VERY IMPORTANT TO EMBRACE CHANGE in your business, as consumer behaviour and buying patterns will constantly be shifting.

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Great Heights launches a new era of Lab Grown Diamonds with ethical standards and unparalleled customization

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Smarter stones sold in a better way for pure beginnings Great Heights introduces a new era of custom made lab grown diamonds, using a technique that mirrors the natural growing process, and free of environmental and ethical harm. With the unveiling of its stunning launch collection, Great Heights sets a new industry standard, proving that people do not have to compromise on high-quality diamonds and offering consumers an unprecedented level of customization never before attempted in the diamond jewelry industry. Great Heights allows consumers to choose the cut, color, and clarity of their diamond with unparalleled customization and revolutionary simplicity. With the guidance of Great Height’s proprietary “Guide Me” tool, consumers can easily select from infinite styles to design the ring of their dreams. The platform integrates CGI technology, used in the award-winning series Game Of Thrones, to show consumers dynamic 360-degree views of the customization process to simulate what they would see in stores. “We saw an opportunity to educate the next generation of consumers on the benefits of ethically created diamonds,” says Co-Founder & President, Ryan Bonifacino. “We created Great Heights with empathy at our core to give consumers a better option, one that provides high-quality and affordable diamonds without sacrificing ethical standards.” Every Great Heights diamond, from the smallest accent stones to the center diamond, is lab grown using a craft that mirrors what occurs in nature. As a result, lab grown diamonds are the only diamonds that offer a 100% in-

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disputable conflict-free origin and are identical to mined diamonds in every way - physically, chemically and optically. Great Heights owns the world’s largest selection of lab-created diamonds, all of which are IGI certified and pass the same rigorous inspection process that is also applied to mined diamonds, which optimizes for: • Cut: The diamond’s cut affects the way light is captured and reflected from a diamond; • Color: Great Heights diamonds sit between D (colorless) to J (near colorless) on the color scale, the finest grades with near-perfect color; • Clarity: Every Great Heights diamond is an SI2 (slightly included) or better, all the way up to VVS1, making them eye-clean to the naked eye. “As a third-generation diamantaire, I’ve seen first-hand the damaging effects that mining diamonds can have on the environment,” says Co-Founder & CEO Alexander Weindling. “Our goal is to clean up the diamonds industry’s environmentally unsustainable and ethically murky practices by setting a higher and more transparent standard with ethically made, fairly priced, brilliant diamonds that put the planet before profits and empathy before economics.” Great Heights debuts with a collection of high-quality, custom made, fairly priced diamonds that retail up to 40% less compared to mined diamonds without compromising on cut, color, or clarity. With industry experts to help navigate the nuances of diamonds and the intricacies of the design process, Great Heights makes it easy to say “I do.”

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Daniel Wellington Announces New Iconic Link Collection and Global Campaign Faces

Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch a Perfect Spot to Launch Breitling’s Superocean Diver’s Watch

Swedish watch and jewelry brand, Daniel Wellington, announces the release of its Iconic Link Collection and global campaign faces, the biggest product launch to date.

Breitling focused all its energy on America’s West Coast during the Breitling Summit. Following a lavish opening day in Beverly Hills, the action moved inland to Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch in Lemoore, California.

“It’s been three years in the making, but on my mind since day one,” said Daniel Wellington founder Filip Tysander.

Following the Breitling Summit in Beverly Hills, which included a surprise visit from Breitling Cinema Squad member Brad Pitt, the memorable experience moved up a gear at Kelly Slater’s extraordinary Surf Ranch in Lemoore. Slater, generally considered to be among the greatest surfers of all time, along with fellow Surfers Squad members Stephanie Gilmore and Sally Fitzgibbons, welcomed Breitling and its guests to the Surf Ranch, which features an incredible artificial wave pool where surfers can catch the world’s longest man-made, open-barrel wave.

The Iconic Link launches alongside the release of the brand’s much-anticipated global campaign faces: American model Hailey Bieber, NFL player Odell Beckham Jr., Chinese singer-songwriter Lay Zhang, South Korean model and actress Sung Kyoung Lee, Bollywood actors Ayushmann Khurrana and Radhika Apte, and Argentinian soccer player Paulo Dybala. The seven faces, each an icon in their own right, perfectly capture the new Iconic Link’s bold and modern sensibility. “We thoughtfully selected the seven faces representing this launch with the word ‘icon’ in mind. Daniel Wellington is truly a global movement, and the selection of these faces capture our global scope, featuring iconic leaders in fashion, sport and entertainment from all over the world,” said Daniel Wellington CMO Anders Hedman. The new watch is available in polished stainless steel or refined rose gold plating and features a luxurious metal bracelet with three-piece links; comprised of solid steel and individually crafted pieces in an elegantly tapered form. The sculptural lines of the raised midpiece blend effortlessly with the watch case, giving the brand’s twelve index dial a modern silhouette. “The attention to detail paid to this new collection is unparalleled—from custom mixing an exclusive rose gold-tone, to ensuring the metal bracelet flows seamlessly from the watch case. Each and every piece of this new watch was diligently crafted with luxurious design in mind,” said Hedman. The Iconic Link Collection is available in three sizes, 28 MM, 32 MM, and 36 MM and is available at Daniel Wellington stores worldwide.

Kelly Slater said: “I was thrilled when I heard that Breitling and Outerknown wanted to host a brand day here at the Surf Ranch alongside the entire Surfers Squad. We had a fantastic day here in Lemoore.” At the Surf Ranch, Breitling celebrated the launch of its Superocean Outerknown diver’s watch, created in partnership with Outerknown, the sustainable apparel brand cofounded by Slater. The event also marked the launch of the innovative and sustainable Outerknown ECONYL® NATO strap collection. The vibrant, colorful straps have been produced from ECONYL® yarn, a wholly recycled and infinitely recyclable material created from waste – including discarded fishing nets – that have been recovered from the oceans. Not only did the Breitling Surfers Squad demonstrate their world-champion styles, but some of the guests also had a chance to ride the impressive waves at the Surf Ranch themselves. Other activities, including dedicated media events, were arranged throughout the day, and in the evening, the Breitling Summit wrapped up with a sunset cocktail hour followed by a farewell dinner party. CEO Georges Kern said: “Our Summits allow us to communicate the state of our brand directly, unfiltered, and in real time – and this edition has been another perfect example. We had a chance to present our new products in incredible surroundings with extremely talented personalities whose lifestyle we admire and with whom we are proud to share common values. It was great to be able to share this special experience with Outerknown, our Surfers Squad, and our audience.”

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Casio G-Shock Debuts Latest Skeleton Series In Three New Colorways

Citizen Attends New York Comic Con

Three New Models Bring Nostalgia 90’s Technology to Popular DW5600 Series

Unveils Limited Edition Spider-Man And Marvel 80th Anniversary Timepieces Citizen participated at New York Comic Con in celebration of the brand’s continued collaboration with Marvel. Citizen unveiled two new Marvel watch novelties including a Limited Edition Marvel 80th Anniversary timepiece and a Limited Edition Spider-Man timepiece.

Casio G-SHOCK adds to its popular DW5600 series debuting new timepieces in three new semi-transparent colorways Blue (DW5600SB-2), Green (DW5600SB-3) and Red (DW5600SB-4) for a simple, yet edgy, elevated look. Part of the latest Clear Skeleton Series, the watches are colorful additions to the DW5600 series. Arriving in popular candy colour trends with striking appeal including a one-tone chromatic colour casing and band in transparent jelly style. These new models express a futuristic take on nostalgia. The reverse LCD with matching color tint showcases a minimalistic design that matches the classic original G-SHOCK. Inspired by the popular 90’s transparent handheld and home video-game systems, the newest DW5600SB models boasts the brand’s classic square shape and staple functions such as a built-in EL backlight and Flash Alert to provide easy use even in low-light conditions. The DW5600SB models also come equipped with G-SHOCK technology including:

• Shock Resistance • 200M Water Resistance • Stopwatch • Multi-Function Alarm • Countdown Timer • 12/24 Hr formats

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To further recognize the Spider-Man franchise, Citizen also unveiled a Limited Edition Spider-Man timepiece. The new timepiece features a grey compilation of iconic comic book covers with the original Spider-Man highlighted in full color on the dial. With a black leather strap and contrast red stitching, the timepiece is limited to 1,962 pieces, celebrating the year that Spider-Man was first introduced. To officially unveil these Limited Edition novelties, Citizen welcomed back their ambassador for all things Marvel, actor, comedian and YouTube sensation, Josh Peck. “It is another exciting year for Citizen as we continue to develop our popular Marvel collection,” says Regina Fiedel, Vice President, Marketing of Citizen Watch America. “We appreciate the continued support from comic enthusiasts as we create pieces that showcase the most iconic Marvel heroes, characters, and stories.”

The DW5600SB models retail for $110 and are available at G-SHOCK retailers including Macy’s, the G-SHOCK Soho Store, and gshock.com.

For the past 80 years, Marvel has inspired millions of fans with iconic characters and timeless stories that bring the Marvel Universe to the forefront of pop culture today. To celebrate its history and community, Citizen unveiled a Limited Edition Marvel 80th Anniversary timepiece featuring a dark blue dial with sunray finish and a matte transparent print of various Marvel logos from the past 80 years. Complete with a Super Titanium™ bracelet, the timepiece is limited to 1,939 pieces, commemorative of Marvel’s inaugural year.

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The Marvel 80th Anniversary Limited Edition timepiece will retail for $495 and the Spider-Man Limited Edition timepiece for $450. Both timepieces will be available for purchase through citizenwatch.com

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Online Jeweller Empowers All Shoppers to Become Philanthropists

Citizen Watch Celebrates Triple Force Friday with Limited Edition Star Wars™ Collection

The Jewel In Giving is an online jewelry store built on a socially conscious and eco-friendly foundation, offering the opportunity for shoppers to give back to a charity of their choice with each purchase. The Jewel In Giving, a Boca Raton based online jewellery company that is predominately female owned, is seeking to change the way that people shop for jewelry. Their new eCommerce site allows all jewellery shoppers to become philanthropists, while shopping thousands of competitively priced pieces.

Citizen joins the Triple Force Friday celebration with the unveiling of five Limited Edition Star Wars timepieces that will be sold on Amazon.com

With each purchase made at thejewelingiving.com, 12.5% of the total purchase price is donated to a charitable organization of the customers’ choice. For example, a $200 jewellery purchase allows for the customer to designate $25 to a participating charity. At The Jewel In Giving, shoppers can choose from thousands of pieces of jewelry at various price points. There are no extra steps or costs, just a deeper meaning associated with the jewellery purchase. In addition, every component of the company has been built within a socially conscious framework. The jewellery customer will be able to purchase products made from recycled gold, ethically sourced diamonds and gemstones and eco-friendly lab grown diamonds. All jewellery boxes and marketing materials come from recycled paper, allowing for the customer to feel good about their entire shopping experience. “Philanthropy and eCommerce jewellery shopping are no longer mutually exclusive. We like to ask - why buy jewellery anywhere else?” said Matteo Valcavi, Director of Marketing for The Jewel In Giving. “Customers are drawn to our site for the best prices and highest quality pieces, while at the same time, they leave with a purchase that actually makes a difference in the world. This is a win-win for everyone.” For IRS 501(c)(3) approved organizations looking to participate with The Jewel In Giving, the benefits are substantial. With the popularity of eCommerce, charities participating with The Jewel In Giving stand to create a robust new revenue stream with little work on their end. The Jewel In Giving was the organic blending of a 30-year-old family owned wholesale diamond and jewellery business fused with over 20-year deeply entrenched philanthropic involvement. The company’s motto, Buy Something Beautiful, Do Something Beautiful, sums up their mission perfectly.

The collection, which is inspired by the original trilogy of films, kicks off paying tribute to the iconic hero of the Rebel Alliance, with a limited edition Luke Skywalker themed timepiece. Featuring stylistic detailing reminiscent of Luke Skywalker’s pilot helmet, the watch’s black dial with white indices features red and yellow hues highlighting the 1/5-second chronograph measuring up to 60 minutes, 12/24-hour time and date. The 44mm stainless steel case holds a dark grey bezel with a matching Cordura strap. Complete with a lightsaber inspired chronograph second hand, this timepiece is limited to only 1,977 pieces globally. Han Solo is also represented in the collection with a 1,977 piece global limited edition watch. The unique timepiece draws inspiration from Solo’s classic uniform of blue pants with a brown leather studded belt. Those elements are represented on the strap of the timepiece as well as on the blue dial featuring his iconic red stripe. Introduced in Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back, Boba Fett is undoubtedly one of the most iconic characters of the franchise. Inspired by the feared bounty hunter, Citizen unveils a limited edition Boba Fett themed timepiece complete with olive green dial and leather strap. With the dial design cues drawn from the Boba Fett’s distressed helmet, chest armor and rockets, the timepiece is limited to 1,980 pieces globally. To round out the character timepieces, Citizen looked to the dark side of the Force to unveil the Darth Vader inspired watch. Inspired by his signature black aesthetic and historic ensemble design elements, the timepiece features a mesh dial pattern evocative of Vader’s ventilator, the Imperial symbol, and his chest ribbing pattern. The stainless steel black case and matching bracelet highlight the black dial with red and blue detailing drawing hues from Vader’s chest module. The timepiece is limited to 1,977 pieces globally. The collection is completed with the limited edition Death Star themed watch, paying homage to the galactic super-weapon. The 40mm timepiece features a black out stainless-steel case and bracelet with a luminous Death Star printed on the dial. When glowing, the dial illuminates with a green silhouette of the infamous moon-sized space station. This timepiece is limited to 1,977 pieces. Each timepiece from the collection is numbered on the case back and will be presented in special Star Wars packaging. The limited edition Star Wars Collection is available on Amazon.com.

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INIKA ORGANIC hits the runway by Madison Nagle 183k followers Fashions latest trend, eco-conscious, made a statement last month at New York Fashion Week. With the rise of sustainable practices in all industries, fashion brands have favored organic production and have even gone as far to use all-natural makeup to create their runway looks. Two brands, in particular, Jonathan Cohen and Chocheng, were drawn to Inika Organic and utilized their products for their Spring/Summer 2020 collections. Inika Organic is an Australian-owned Certified Organic beauty brand that promises premium quality and 100% natural beauty products that meet the highest organic standards possible. The brand stands out amongst the competition as it is Certified Vegan and Cruelty Free. Both Jonathan Cohen and Chocheng created runway looks using Inika Organic’s nourishing line. For the Jonathan Cohen SS2020 show, the makeup artists created bold looks with Inika’s all-natural eye colors and put an emphasize on the models’ brows and clean skin with the brand’s brow and base products. For the Chocheng show, artists created 60’s inspired looks using Inika’s neutral pink and monochrome pallets. Model Lorena Haliti and fashion blogger Natalie Saurez teamed up with the brand to help showcase their organic line. Both women admire Inika’s commitment to being all-natural and sustainable and were excited to share their products backstage. To shop the runway looks, visit www.inikaorganic.com/us/makeup/nyfw-ss20.

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Designer Profile

Talent Canadian’s

Kathryn Cronin

Kathryn Cronin was born in Fredericton, New Brunswick, and later moved to Halifax where she was raised. Both of her parents are heavily involved in the arts. Sarah Maloney, her mother and fellow artist, was Kathryn’s motivation to pursue a creative path. After completing the foundation year at NSCAD University, she returned to Fredericton to study jewellery. She went on to complete both the diploma program and Advanced Studio program, graduating with honours. While finishing her studies at the New Brunswick College of Craft and Design she had her first solo show at Connexion Artist-Run Centre for Contemporary Art. The series Cronin developed during her final year at NBCCD, Fortified, was also shown at Gallery 78 in October 2018. Kathryn Cronin is a multimedia jewellery artist, with a focus in self-reflected work. During the past year she has focused on setting up her studio and developing her solo practice. Kathryn Cronin lives and works in Fredericton. Fortified Life is constant in that it always changes and is always challenging. I take this mindset into all of my work. It is the reason I use so many different materials, and why I use my medium for self-reflection. None of us are the same person we were five years ago, but that doesn’t mean that we should forget who we were and where we came from. I believe that you should attempt to understand that person in order to understand your current self and help to shape the person you want to be in the future. The Fortified series is made of small, weak segments of wire that I fused together repeatedly until I had a sizeable piece that is architectural, grand, and infinitely stronger physically and aesthetically. My intention in this series is to convey that we shouldn’t be ashamed about our shortcomings, or the things that have broken us in the past. It may not be an easy task, but the old adage is true, you can always pick up the pieces. You can put yourself together again, and you will be stronger for it. Life is not necessarily easy, or kind; it can be at times quite merciless but that doesn’t mean that we have no power or agency over our own lives. So, I make soaring towers of armour out of the things that tried to tear me down, out of the parts of life that try and tear us all down. Fortified is constructed of sterling silver wire with a liver of sulphur finish. This series is comprised of one-of-a-kind work in keeping with the idea of building ourselves up and taking pride from your individual experiences. I build the body pieces on models by taking the wire and measuring small segments to the shape of the model’s body. Each piece has an under structure that is made to fit the curve of the hand or head, with an expanded structure built up from this base. I will be submitting two piece to Artistar Jewels for the upcoming October show, my Fortified Head Piece and my Fortified Hand Piece. https://kathrynjanecronin7.wixsite.com/jewellery

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Christine Rio

Chelsea Vohanka

With a degree in Classical Studies, and strongly influenced by ancient history, surrealism and goth/steampunk imagery, she works to create jewelry that challenges one’s perspective of adornment. She works primarily in sterling silver, brass and bronze, with the regular addition of gemstones and pearls to provide contrast against the metalwork. Each piece is individually cut, shaped and textured with simple tools to ensure its uniqueness and organic quality. Christine is inspired by movement, by abstract shapes, by themes of whimsy or darkness. She works to create pieces that evoke rich feelings, choosing to achieve deep personal connections with her jewelry rather than highlighting textbook techniques. Christine has been invited to create collections for three seasons of Vancouver Fashion Week, and was asked by a noted LA stylist to send a collection of jewelry for celebrity red carpet events. Elle Canada said she was a designer to watch out for at Vancouver Fashion Week in September 2016. She has had her jewelry featured in published magazine fashion editiorials, where it has been recognized for its uniqueness internationally in magazines in Italy, the US, and the Ukraine. www.slatejewelry.com

Five years ago, Chelsea Vohanka graduated from Vancouver Metal Art School and founded L. Skelly Jewellery and Designs in her hometown of New Westminster, B.C Canada. In her pieces, Chelsea realizes her appreciation for traditional techniques, her love for bold jewellery and her proclivity toward experimentation. www.artistarjewels.com

“Spider” Abstract sterling silver earrings with freshwater pearls. Dimensions: approx. 3” * 3.75”. Created for: Craft Council of British Columbia, “The Earring Show 2018” Distressed 24 g sterling silver frame with hand-inscribed etching in black patina. 16 soldered 16 g sterling silver curved “tendrils” and three silver freshwater pearls per earring.

The Statue Ring 14 Karat Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver, 1 x 0.03 Carat Black Diamond. Inspired by ancient statues, this ring features a broken, sculpted bust cast in sterling silver showcased on an irregularly shaped, solid gold ring formed through experimental techniques. Accented with one small off-set black diamond and finished with a rough patina, this piece truly embraces its ancient inspiration.

The “Little Doll” Hairpin 14 Karat Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver and 3 x 0.02 Carat White Diamonds. A modern take on an ancient classic, the “Little Doll” Hairpin evokes a sense of rustic opulence. With a tiny sterling silver doll, delft cast from an antique porcelain doll, on top a column-like, solid gold pin, set with three small diamonds, this simple accessory is truly a unique piece.

The “Be Bold” Bangle Sterling Silver.

“Longing” Flowing sterling silver ring with Herkimer Diamond. Dimensions: Silver wave floats over top of hand to about 2”. Width is about 1.5”. Created for: Ivan Bitton Style House, Los Angelos, CA. Featured in XIOX Magazine, “Alien Nation” fashion editorial, Vol 2 Issue 9.

Designed to highlight the beauty and capability of metal, the “Be Bold” bangle is thoughtfully sculpted and cast in solid sterling silver. With sporadic green flecks amidst a dark background, the patina naturally embraces the unique texture and fluid form of this piece to create a fierce statement.

Single piece 24 g sterling silver formed into abstract flowing wave that sits on middle finger and floats over the top of the hand for comfort. Set with large nugget Herkimer Diamond. Ring is treated with black patina and polished to high sheen for contrast of high points.

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Sponsor Content

100% RECYCLED GOLD & SILVER WITH UNITED PMR, INC.

IN AN AGE OF ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS, THE POPULARITY AND DEMAND FOR 100% RECYCLED GOLD IS RISING. Suppliers like United Precious Metal Refining, Inc. provide this to their customers with every product they make from karated grain to their cadmium-free solder. These products are used in the world’s largest jewelry manufacturing companies to create fine jewelry that is then shipped to retailers around the globe. Fine jewelry, made with 100% recycled gold is sold in retail stores and through online sales. These pieces are worn and often times passed down through generations. When the style has passed or if the piece is broken beyond repair, they end up sold to jewelers or pawnshops where they begin the process of being recycled. Primary refiners like United Precious Metal Refining, Inc. play a key role in the process. United purchases this scrap gold from jewelry sources such as jewelry stores, pawnshops and manufacturers alike. Buying jewelry scrap allows for United to ensure that their feed stock is sourced from only jewelry sources. By not purchasing electronic scrap or mining materials, United guarantees that all their products are made with 100% recycled gold.

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In addition to jewelry scrap, United also purchases byproducts from manufacturers and jewelers such as polishing dust, bench sweeps, filters, floor sweeps, blower sweeps, filings, grindings and more. United also processes carpeting, crucibles, slag and sink sludge for the recovery of precious metals. These materials are processed in house and refined to recover and refine the precious metals which ultimately are utilized in the creation of new jewelry products like wire, sheet, tube and plate in addition to fine gold and karated grain and solder. United is proud to offer 100% recycled gold and silver and are certified SCS Global Services. Their environmental commitment has been a pillar of their foundation since 1988. United also houses a waste treatment plant where they process the chemicals used in the refining process. To learn more about United, please visit their website: www.UnitedPMR.com.

News

A JEWELLER TH OFER MIZRAHI, AN INSIDER’S VIEW ON WHAT WORKS, WHAT DOESN’T AND HOW TO ALWAYS IMPROVE By Tyson Roset

ecently I went through a major career change. Tight profitability in the market forced me to re-evaluate my progress and productivity. I worked 60-hour weeks, sold millions of dollars at wholesale and at the end of the day felt like I was working for FedEx and the government. Increased competition at home, online and internationally has challenged profits in almost every marketplace. Profits were so tight for my customers that I felt like my couple of points of wholesale mark-up was keeping them from making sales. This is not an option for the independent jeweller. To raise my game I made the hard decision to close my Sole Proprietorship “Roset Diamond” business to partner with a much bigger international player, Ofer Mizrahi Diamonds. Through the transition I picked up a couple of pointers on how to increase profits without decreasing quality of service.

KNOW YOUR VALUE! My customers told me I could, and should, have charged more. Of course, no one will tell you this until there are no more deals on the table. However I do think that, on the whole, we undervalue our expertise and at the end of the day end up losing opportunities and a sense of personal worth that is so closely tied to our business. How many times have you spent twenty minutes on a complicated watch only to charge $10 for the battery, or saved someone’s finger when their hand is swollen only to say “no charge”? Or negotiated lower and lower on your beautiful hand-made ring only to give in on pricing because you spent hours in negotiation? We’ve all been in that situation; but we forget that in addition to beautiful jewellery, we sell Romance, Luxury, and Art; and although these are not tangible, they provide a value that is, arguably, priceless. Not only do we not need to provide a discount on this, we can raise the price. It is fair and reasonable to factor these into the shopping experience. After the experience I have had I would say, know the value of your service and expertise and what you are selling and don’t negotiate. At the end of the day, your customers will respect your consistency and integrity. Unfortunately, it is usually the most pushy customers who ends up getting the best discount but let your ‘Yes’ be ‘Yes for everyone’ and if you can’t do that then learn how to say ‘no’ without apologizing or bending. Know what you do well and charge for it and know what you don’t

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do well, and stop charging for it. That is the art of knowing and providing real value. Are you a watch expert, CAD designer, goldsmith or do you have a deep knowledge of how to source or a thorough understanding of your customer base? Whatever your strength, focus on that as your primary service and watch as things begin to transform. Focus creates excellence and excellence attracts loyalty and garners respect.

KNOW YOUR COSTS Jewellers have to take a hard look at costs. Often times, small things amount to large expenses that take a big dent out of your margins. Really begin to evaluate your decision. Are you paying for a location that is not worth the return? Do you have employees that are dragging down the team? Do you have Jewellery subscriptions (poly, rap, Jewellers club) that you do not utilize? Is attending every trade show necessary? And let’s not get started on dead inventory; that could be another article in and of itself. Begin by selling your stock and when you can’t sell stock try again by altering it, it’s money in the bank that is waiting to be made available, so get creative and inventive.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION! Your store location has a huge effect on profit and productivity so don’t let a negative location drain your positivity. Two of my favourite jewellers gave me insight into how a location could play a positive or negative role in your business. One of my jeweller friends said that his location made him “smarter” than he actually is—not true, as he is very well informed, but the difference in his business was significant because he had chosen a good location. My second jeweller friend functioned in a crumbling downtown core for many years and struggled everyday with the grief of the neighbourhood. Finally, he bit the bullet and relocated to a new location and his business more than doubled, to his amazement and surprise. As for myself, for years I was struggling with a limited FedEx shipping window that added stress to my customers and to my day. Now, in Vancouver, I have the latest shipping time in Canada. This made a huge different in my business. The success gained from a strategic location can make an immeasurable difference in your business, be it for the neighbourhood and the clientele or be it for other reason, so chose carefully and wisely and position yourself for success.

HAT

KNOWS YOUR TEAM Your success is closely related to the people you work with and that are part of your team. When you surround yourself with the right people, your business thrives; so make sure to hire employees that bring a diversity of talents to the team and that push and inspire everyone. All too often I see employees just watching customers walk by like it’s a trade show- they treat it like a passive experience instead of actively participating. Your day feels so much better when you are productive, alert and prepared to connect with people. In addition, your time is much more valuable than the wage you get paid; so make sure you are growing- that’s gaining real value. The job of a good sales person is to be pushing all day to get in front of customers. Use every tool at your disposal- pick up the phone, visit customers at their work place, utilize social media, keep learning, keep practicing and you will not only feel more positive about the business and your work day but you will experience real growth and progress.

YOUR SUCCESS IS CLOSELY RELATED TO THE PEOPLE YOU WORK WITH AND THAT ARE PART OF YOUR TEAM. THINK SMART With the broad availability of tools at our disposal today, it’s a good time to get lean in your business. Save where you can and spend smartly when you need to. For instance, you can use free marketing utilizing social media, use the phone to call clients, email, email, email and print signage. By utilizing these correctly, you can make these forms of advertising more personal and effective than a radio or TV ad, leading to a much higher hit rate. Out of all the methods mentioned above, the best is the phone. Get your employees to call customers offering to get rings inspected or cleaned and, while they’re at it, to mention new products. The second part of thinking smart is, unfortunately, putting your suppliers through the fire. I am so thankful for the loyalty customers provide, but this is business and it’s how you put food on the table. Negotiate and push your sup-

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

pliers. Remember how small the pool of good jewellery stores really is and make your suppliers earn your repeat business. Expect them to attend your events, support you with promotions, and honour the value of their goods should a sale fall through. Push your suppliers a little harder on payment terms and push your customers a little harder on layaway items. Call the layaways weekly; the customer has paid for something, and the ring is much better advertising on her finger than in your safe. If need be, help customer find solutions to getting the product faster through financing; but be sure that this does not eat into your margin. In addition, you can offer in-store financing that does not charge you at all and provides very low interest rates to your customers. These solutions will help you to close more deals but do not use a service that charges your customer “credit card interest rates”. This type of transaction will not bode well for your business as customers will refrain from recommending your business to others and a bad experience may even lead to negative online reviews. So guard your reputation.

GET POPULAR… Speaking of google reviews, get active in more places than just Instagram and Facebook. Every social media platform carries its own marketing advantage. You could get referrals from LinkedIn, for instance. So don’t miss out on valuable opportunities. You can also gain support from fellow retailers by giving them reviews and a ridiculous amount of advertising from Alignable. You can also blog about jewellery and fashion and become the designer of choice through Pinterest. As you can see, the possibilities are endless. Just make sure that all of your media is on Brand and consistent throughout. Popular and established brands are still making money, just take a look at the last ten years for Rolex. So try to carry at least one international brand that will give you recognition and traffic, just limit your initial buy in. Also, become the local brand that people are willing to pay for. Be consistently excellent in service and quality and push everyday to get better. Become the store where people want to take selfies for Instagram, become that popular and desirable location. Find a signature, a certain stone, an inscription that sets all your jewellery apart and be aware how you present your brand; everything you put out needs to be professional and on brand. You need to have trendy bags, inviting business cards, and thoughtful thank-you cards. You never know how long these items might stay visible in someone’s home or how they might chose to share their purchase. Remember, we sell diamonds that comes with a certain exception for luxury. So, you can probably afford a colour printer for your appraisals, a new paint job to represent your brand colour or a new sign for the front window. Give the little detailed touches the attention they deserve.

PERSONALITY ALWAYS WINS Although we have a lot of elements to work with to promote our business online and to impress clients with our beautiful branding, our attitude is still the biggest asset and your biggest brand. Be excited about your product, that infectiousness will translate to your customers. Be positive about your possibilities, be the living embodiment of what your brand represents. If you can’t embody that feeling, who can? And when you have that drive, positive emotion

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and excitement behind you, all you need to do is top it off with unshakable ethics and integrity. That is the recipe for real success. There are no short corners, not easy roads. You have to put in the effort, time, thought, emotion and a big sprinkle of your personality.

PROTECT YOURSELF It goes without saying that we need to consider everything in order to limit our potential for loss. We are in an industry where one loss can destroy us. Therefore, increased security will lower your insurance cost while raising peace of mind. Losses can come in many different forms; some employee are stealing time when they could be selling or doing other work. Profits can be missed in other areas and at the end of the day, end up costing us a lot. We also need to consider waste. It is our duty to be environmentally prudent but it also makes good economic sense. Less waste is economically beneficial to everyone in the long run. Take a look at how you are using packaging and signage, how are you recycling and reusing materials and are you making the most of what you have?

WORK IT, LOVE IT Lastly, it is hard to tell any jeweller to work harder. Generally, we are terrible to ourselves, working six days a week and running ourselves dry; but as a rule in life, you get out what you put in. The only person who can change your success is you, so prime the well of success, especially when it’s a little tough to do so. Push through during the slow months. Consider running a promotion, challenge yourself to be better at networking (set a calendar event and go!), keep talking about your business and all the exciting things you are doing. Remember, your energy is infectious and will get people talking about you. Get better on the sales floor; don’t let customers leave without turning them into a prospect (a little hint, young men do not enter a jewellery store unless they are ready to buy). Discover what they want and do the leg work to fulfill their need. Ask questions and find the solutions, there is alway more that we can do. Our job is not only to serve our customers but to make them feel it! And keep things very positive; positivity is contagious so forget any negative talk about your business or otherwise. In other words, ‘fake it until you make it.’ Remember, good employees will rise to the standards you set, so set an amazing example. Work hard and be super positive.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST We are in this business because it’s exciting and because we love it. Let’s not forget our passion and if we’ve lost it, let’s find a way to always recover it. We also have a limited number of productive years in life, let’s enjoy them. There is a lot of opportunity and growth potential. Let’s collectively end the downward trend in profits; there is lots of food on the plate and remember, we are all in this together. The jeweller down the street is not your enemy, he is your ally; as you are both raising awareness of the products out there and setting a precedence for a positive experience in the industry we are all a part of. Don’t be shy, get to know each other and compliment the lines you all carry so that customers have increased options. It all comes back around so talk well about each other; the returns will be many. Here is to mutual success and growth, we are in business together. Here’s to happy selling!

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De Beers entering

lab grown diamond

market with “Lightbox”

“Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” and “Diamonds are forever” are now famous lines

Lobbying within the industry has worked to a certain degree but today the synthetic diamond industry is on an uphill climb with no signs of slowing down; projected to be worth $15 billion by 2035.

in our vernacular due largely to a massive marketing effort behind the scenes of the diamond industry- working tirelessly to foster consumers’ perceptions and personal emotional connection to owning diamonds. In fact, “A diamond is Forever” was coined by De Beers copywriter Mary Frances Gerety back in 1947 in an effort to solidify consumers’ association between diamonds and marriage. The effort worked, in the following decades De Beers wholesale of rough diamonds jumped from 23 million in 1939 to 2.1. Billion in 1979.

Although De Beers ran a “Real is Rare” campaign back in 2016 (targeting millennials into earth sourced diamond investments) they nevertheless launched a synthetic diamond line “Lightbox” in 2018, offering millennial singles affordable diamond accessories. The line is attracting attention and picking up steam- expanding into two additional department store collaborations: select Bloomingdale’s and Reed’s department stores will now carry the De Beers Lightbox line in their stores and through their websites.

From the get go, experimentation with synthetic diamonds, dating back as early as 1879, threatened the diamond industry - built on the rarity factor of sourcing, extracting and processing this rare and precious stone of the earth. Nevertheless, in the 1940s, systematic research began in the United States, Sweden and the Soviet Union to grow diamonds using CVD and HPHT processes. The first reproducible synthesis was reported around 1955.

Since lab grown diamonds are identical in composition to earth sourced diamonds, some consumers are switching over to the lab grown alternative as they offer an ethical, environmental or financial solution into entering diamond ownership. This is an attractive option for potential consumers who may be in the market for an engagement ring or a new piece of jewellery. Where there’s a demand, there’s industry and it looks like synthetic diamonds are here to stay.

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W I N T E R 2 019/2 02 0 I S S U E

What’s in a

diamond? We’ve all heard the famous lines “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” and “Diamonds are forever”. Yes, diamonds are those rare and precious items coveted the world over for their scarcity; they are difficult and expensive to attain and that makes them all the more desirable. Everyone seems to want to get their hands on a diamond but it’s not always easy to do so. While many industries have simplified their production process to bring cost and accessibility closer to the needs of the consumer, the diamond industry is no different. The industry has been evoloving novel ways to deliver diamonds to the market. Traditionally, diamonds have been a coveted and complicated resource to obtain because they are the result of a natural geological process that takes billions of years to form. Diamonds are formed deep within the Earth, roughly 100 miles below the surface. The pressure, weight and temperature under the earth create the perfect conditions necessary for diamond crystals to begin to form. If that wasn’t complicated enough, to extract diamonds requires drilling machinery, immense human labour and resources- it is an expensive, complicated and sometimes dangerous task. Because of this complexity, by 1879 experimentation with synthetic diamonds were already in the works but nothing was confirmed. Yet, in the 1940s, systematic research began in the United States, Sweden and the Soviet Union to grow diamonds using CVD and HPHT processes and the first reproducible synthesis was reported around 1955. There are several ways to create a synthetic diamond; High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) The process involves large presses that can weigh hundreds of tons to produce a pressure of 5 GPa at 1500 °C and CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition). For high quality, wearable gems, CVD is the preferred process. It creates a carbon plasma over a substrate onto which the carbon atoms deposit to form a diamond.

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

A D V E R T I S I N G

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WITH CORPORATE LOGOS

Prestigious, well established Vancouver workshop seeking full time, bench jeweller/ goldsmith, preferably European trained. Candidate must have the following qualifications: Excellence in Gemmological Education • 10+ years’ experience since 1958 • accreditation from a reputable institute • advanced skills in hand forging jewellery in gold, platinum and silver from sketches Courses offered: Professional Gemmology • extensive knowledge of metals, diamonds and gemstones • ability to carve waxes Jewellery Appraisal, Diamond Grading • excellent communication skills in English

We’ve been building custom retail jewellery solutions for We’vethan built25custom jewellery more than more years inretail Canada. Givesolutions us a call for to discuss 25 years in Canada. See our half- page ad in this issue. your options. (See our full page ad in this issue) Saskatoon SILVERMAN MEMBER OF: Saskatoon & Toronto& Toronto CONSULTING 1-888-955-1069 1-888-955-1069

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will oversee accounts and expanding our CALL TODAY FOR CATALOG OR YOUR QUOTE CALL TODAY FOR CATALOG OR YOUR more than 25existing years insales Canada. Give us us call to discuss discuss more than 25 years in Canada. Give aa call to For more information on how to For more information on how to client base across Canada. your options. (See our full page ad in this issue) advertise inCanadian Jeweller magazine your inCanadian options. (See ourmagazine full page ad in this issue) advertise Jeweller

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Further your studies at the Toronto campus: Master Valuer Jewellery Appraisal Program

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Call CJB 416-787-3472

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classified

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55 queen st e #1100 toronto, on m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898 Master Goldsmith/Jeweller Prestigious, well established Vancouver workshop seeking full time, bench jeweller/ goldsmith, preferably European trained. Candidate must have the following qualifications: • 10+ years’ experience • accreditation from a reputable institute • advanced skills in hand forging jewellery in gold, platinum and silver from sketches • extensive knowledge of metals, diamonds and gemstones • ability to carve waxes • excellent communication skillsjewellers in Englishwith all the products and A full-service boutique firm that provides retail

services to have a successful assortment to serve their patrons, as well as merchandising Compensation is based on experience and includes paid vacation and extended health marketing services. Allaunder onephotographs roof. www.eradbrandmanagement.com benefiand ts. Please reply by email with resume, of work and 2 references to

ThePlease Canadian Let’s talk. contact us at mollylima@hotmail.com Gemmological Association

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Awards of Excellence

www.bamiyansilver.ca

Hearts

Not Open to Public

55 queen st e #1100 toronto, on m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898

2017-05-02 3:03 PM

2019

Are you the best of

Wholesale Only

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Call CJB 416-787-3472 www.jewellersblock.com the best?

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it is no longerC Apossible to ignore the significance of social media on the jewellery industry. Now, the first round of NADIAN SHOW ISSUE 2018 JCK ISSUE 2017 CANADIANJEWELLER.COM the Excellence Awards require you to post images withmagazine detailedplease descriptions of three products of your |choice For more information on how to advertise in thewill classified section of Canadian Jeweller contact: Olivier Felicio | 647-748-4746 olivier@thergmgroup.net that you feel best to represent your brand. You must post the images on your Facebook or/and Instagram page, tag in the post Canadian Jeweller, and use #awardsofexcellece and #canadianjewellers as well as the hashtag that represents your category the best. CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C 2017-05-02 O M 3:03 PM 2018-07-11 9:20 AM

The posts with the most likes and engagements will be nominated and entered for the second round of the

Last Word

Jitterbug collection Full of surprises, ‘Jitterbugs’ are fantasy creatures altered through the journey of Metamorphosis. Brought to life with a blaze of coloured gemstones and enamels, the collection captures the imagination of curious minds that expect the unexpected.

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