Canadian Jeweller Magazine - May/June 2014 by Canadian Jeweller Magazine

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

MAY/JUNE 2014

Canadian Jeweller Magazine Bruni knows CJ INTERVIEW Eugenia what women want

POS SYSTEMS It’s more than just about managing transactions

BACK FROM BASEL Our coverage of the hottest show in the world

EN FRANÇAIS L’Ecole de joaillerie de Montreal: Les joailliers de demain

Jean-Christophe Bédos Birks

COUNTDOWN TO OUR

135th Anniversary

Celebrating a milestone

Scan me to go to our website

CMCA AUDITED

6 0 B L O O R S T R E E T W E S T S U I T E 110 6 T O R O N T O O N TA R I O M 4 W 3 B 8 / $ 2 5

24 Gold Group Ltd. Gold Dealer & Refining Company

Canadian Jeweller B: 9.25 X 11.125in T: 9 x 10.875in L: 8.5 x 10.375

ephraim zion of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it. Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.eDu

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6/26/13 1:33 PM

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Canadian, assured LaunChed 10 years ago, the CanadaMark™ diaMond haLLMark prograM was the worLd’s first “Mine of origin” prograM, and it Continues to Lead the way. Through an independently audited process, the CanadaMark program guarantees that a polished diamond is of Canadian origin, cut from rough that was responsibly mined in the Northwest Territories. The program also guarantees that each diamond bearing its mark is natural and untreated, tracked at every stage from country of origin to polished stone, and polished to strict quality standards. A CanadaMark diamond starts its journey from the Ekati ™ and Diavik mines. Rough destined for the CanadaMark program is kept separate from non-Canadian diamonds at every stage of processing, from cleaning and valuation to sorting, to preserve visibility of its origins. The diamonds are then compiled into rough parcels and sold to diamantaires who have successfully applied to be CanadaMark licence holders. Only reputable diamantaires can be CanadaMark licence holders; almost all are family businesses, with technical expertise and knowledge of the global marketplace for quality diamonds. Independent verification that a diamond is of Canadian origin lies at the heart of the CanadaMark hallmark program. A third party auditor ensures that each diamantaire, and its cutting and polishing facilities, has systems for recording and tracking the progress of every Canadian diamond through the production process. The diamantaire must be

able to identify the origin of each polished diamond destined for the CanadaMark program, by providing the stone’s original rough weight, batch number and invoice details. Once polished, a stone that meets the CanadaMark program’s tracking, quality and technical criteria is registered on a database by the diamantaire, who receives a unique serial number for the stone and a certificate card. This card should always accompany the diamond. Finally, the diamantaire laser inscribes the girdle of each CanadaMark diamond with its unique serial number, the CanadaMark Diamond Shape, and a logo representing either the licence holder or the brand selling the stone. To confirm the authenticity of their CanadaMark diamond, a consumer just needs to visit www.canadamark.com. The result is an ethically sourced and beautifully cut diamond that can be worn with a clear conscience. Completely natural, untreated and produced according to socially responsible practices, only a CanadaMark diamond provides the independent guarantee of origin that consumers increasingly demand, and deserve. To find out more about the CanadaMark program and its licence holders, please visit www.canadamark.com.

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MAY/JUNE 2014

The independent voice for the industry since 1879

Canadian Jeweller Magazine ESTA BLISHED 1879

Vol. 135 / No. 04

OLI V IER FELICIO LUC Y HOLDEN Mano Rupra

I R I N A LY T C H A K M AYA A K BAY

Mano Rupra wears many hats when it comes to TimeRevolution.com, a full service centre for watches that she runs along with her father and president of the company, Kuldip Rupra, as well as brother Devin Rupra. Mano oversees everything from administrative affairs to management and accounting matters at TimeRevolution.com. Certified as a Human Resources Professional and a Payroll Compliance Practitioner, it’s very admirable that Mano also finds time in her extremely busy schedule to teach classes at Humber College. We’re pleased to welcome her to our Editorial Board!

GILLI A N SYCH ERIN BOOTH TA M A R A K E L LY CONTRIBUTORS

Publisher / olivier@canadianjeweller.com Associate Publisher / lucy@canadianjeweller.com Managing Editor / irina@canadianjeweller.com Editorial Intern / intern.editorial@thergmgroup.net Art Director / gillian@thergmgroup.net Production Manager / production@thergmgroup.net Junior Design / tamara@thergmgroup.net Maria Laura Barreto, Véronique Dubé, Christian Fleury, Sarah B. Hood, Janet Lamont, John Lamont, Charles Lewton-Brain, Liza Marley, Kuldip Rupra, Mano Rupra, Steve Turac, Todd Wasylyshyn

SALES J EFF YA M AGUCHI

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6122 / email: jeff@thergmgroup.net

H O WA R D L A N D S M A N

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6103 / email: howard@thergmgroup.net

A NGEL A H A RTL A ND

Advertising Sales tel: 416-203-7900 x6129 / email: angela@thergmgroup.net

C I R C U L AT I O N

Editorial Board

GA RT H AT K INSON

toll free: 1-877-547-2246 / email: cj@publicationpartner.com

Haigo Derian L’Oro Jewellery

HEAD OFFICE

toll free: 1-888-358-8186 x6117

Andrea Hopson Luxury Retail Executive Paul Mcfarlane Chanel Canada

MELANIE SETH

Controller & Operations / melanie@rivegauchemedia.com

ER IN POR EDOS

Marketing & Events Coordinator / erin@thergmgroup.net

MONTREAL OFFICE

2348 Lucerne, Suite 230, Mont-Royal, Quebec H3R 2J8 tel: 514-381-5196 fax: 514-381-6223

Marco Miserendino Bijouterie Italienne P.M. Inc. Phyllis Richard Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc.

SUBSCRIPTION RATES Canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide issues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rate (Canada only, for six or more subscriptions) — $17.50 per subscription per year.

Mano Rupra TimeRevolution.com

CHANGE OF ADDRESS email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735 or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1

Beth Saunders Canadian Jewellery Group

PUBLISHED BY THE RGM GROUP Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume responsibility for the contents of any advertisement; any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller and its affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian Jeweller. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8.

Sevan Titizian G.C. International Ltd. Steve Turac Turac Luxury Group Inc. Moniruz Zaman The Bullion Mart Inc.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3B8 tel: 416-203-7900 fax: 416-703-6392

Gino DeVuono Movado Group of Canada

Publication Partners 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, Ontario L1V 1A1

Jean-Christophe Bédos Birks, President & CEO

M A Y/J U N E 2 0 1 4

Departments

Contents 16 EDITOR’S LET TER 18 LET TER FROM THE BOARD

20 CONTRIBUTORS / BEHIND THE SCENES 22 PRODUCT SHOWCASE

100 CELEBR ATING 135 YEARS

105 SHOWCASE / MARKETPL ACE

26 STAR WATCH There was no shortage of sparkle during this season's red carpet rundown. 28 WHAT'S ON News, trends and events

112 ST YLE COUNCIL For this summer season, think polka dots, bows and bright colours! 114 L AST WORD de GRISOGONO: A 'natural' beauty

30 FOR THE RECORD News, trends and events

by Maya Akbay

35 MINING NEWS On the journey towards ethical gold. by Maria Laura Barreto

CJ en français 51 LES NOUVELLES

36 CJ GALLERY Pandora in Toronto; Hong Kong International Jewellery Show; JA New York

54 LES JOAILLIERS DE DEMAIN

50 CJ INTERVIEW Eugenia Bruni knows what women want when it comes to jewellery.

May/June 2014 cover photographed

^ Next issue cover spotlight:

by Christian Fleury

Classic Creations

by Irina Lytchak

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

M A Y/J U N E 2 0 1 4

The Heart & Soul of Wedding Bands

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2014-02-20 4:02 PM

Features & Columns

Contents

42 ON THE COVER: MAISON BIRKS Celebrating 135 years and a revolutionary new initiative. by Irina Lytchak

48 DESIGNER PROFILE Victoria Sorkin's string of successes. by Sarah B. Hood

58 COMPANY PROFILE We reconnect with Lotus Jewellery's Robert Smith. by Maya Akbay

60 FEATURE: POS SYSTEMS The right POS system is more than just about managing transactions.

64 JVC ANNUAL CRIME REPORT: PART 2 Summary of JVC's annual crime report.

by Eliza Marley

by Janet Lamont

68 FEATURE: THE BEST MIX The perfect jewellery and watch selection for your store.

72 RETAIL WATCH Time is of the essence when it comes to the jewellery industry.

by Maya Akbay

by Todd Wasylyshyn

80 FEATURE: TR ADE SHOW STR ATEGIES & BOOTH DESIGN Make the most of trade show season with some helpful advice.

74 KEEPING TIME How important are genuine parts?

by Maya Akbay

by Kuldip Rupra

88 FEATURE: BACK FROM BASELWORLD 2014 It was the hottest show of the year and we want to tell you all about it.

78 FROM THE BENCH Examining the process of bending tubes.

by Irina Lytchak

by Charles Lewton-Brain

94 FEATURE: JCK L AS VEGAS IS ALMOST HERE We tell you who to watch for during the upcoming JCK Las Vegas 2014.

85 JVC COLUMN You are only as secure as your weakest point.

by Irina Lytchak

by John Lamont

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

M A Y/J U N E 2 0 1 4 足足足

Joining forces

Editor's Letter

IRINA LYTCHAK, MANAGING EDITOR

BEFORE FLIPPING TO THIS PAGE, you may have noticed our cover. This is an extra special issue for Canadian Jeweller Magazine as we have partnered up with prestigious Canadian jeweller Birks to celebrate both of our organizations’ 135th anniversaries. In tribute to this, we are presenting you with an in-depth look at the Birks legacy as well as the man behind the brand, Jean-Christophe Bédos, CEO of Birks. It’s also very interesting to note that we had previously featured Birks & Mayors (before their rebranding and name change) on our August 2008 cover. It has only been six years but both our magazine and this jewellery brand have experienced a tremendous amount of change and progress. Our May/June issue also finds us right in the middle of trade show season – a very hectic but exciting time for many of us in the industry. When approached in the right manner, trade shows can be used to your advantage and that is why this issue is geared toward helping you make the most of this time. Be sure to read through “The Trade Show Lowdown” on page 80 for tips and tricks on getting prepared for a show and staying focused during the course of it. On page 94, you will also find our “JCK Las Vegas 2014 preview,” which centers on some of the names you should keep your eyes open for and tools on making your trade show experience easier. Having recently attended Baselworld 2014, I included a review of the spectacular Swiss show on page 88 – it’s a perfect way for you to get a glimpse into the fabulous show that you may have heard so much about but never got a chance to see for yourself. Getting back to our retailers and the issues that matter to them most, this issue also covers subjects like “POS Systems 101” on page 60 by Liza Marley and the ideal jewellery and watch combinations for your store on page 68 by Maya Akbay. For our May and June columns, Retail Watch writer Todd Wasylyshyn covers the importance of time when it comes to buying and selling jewellery in “It’s about time” on page 72. Meanwhile, Keeping Time columnist Kuldip Rupra talks about what goes into servicing a luxury watch in “How important are genuine parts?” on page 74. Finally, we want to wish you all a wonderful experience at the various trade shows you may be attending over the next few months (listings for which you can find on page 28 in “What’s On”) and hope to see you there! CJ

Photograph by Jacqueline Hornyak

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

M A Y/J U N E 2 0 1 4

Alternative metal bands.

Tungsten, Ceramic, Titanium, Cobalt

All bands in stock and ready to ship

Tel: 888.470.6279 Fax: 888.248.6279 www.maryjewellery.com

Available in half size increments

Letter from the Board

Steve Turac President Turac Luxury Group Inc.

I have had the privilege of visiting over 200 different independent jewellery stores in every province. One thing I can attest to is the uniqueness of each market. From St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador to Victoria, B.C., there is no universal formula or approach to achieving success for either retailers or suppliers. I have been able to overcome some of the trials and tribulations that exist within our industry by constantly keeping in contact with our members, nurturing those relationships, listening to the concerns of the jewellers, and being open to new strategies and initiatives. Our industry is facing its own challenges – the supply chain from mine to consumer is getting shorter, we live in an era where 90 per cent of all engagement rings purchases start on Google, and where social media is as relevant as almost any other aspect of our business. I believe that now, retailers and manufacturers need more than ever to communicate openly and with a certain level of transparency. This makes the challenge that much more demanding but also, that much more exciting. It also makes Canadian Jeweller Magazine that much more relevant as the true voice and the true gathering place for our industry. CJ

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

M A Y/J U N E 2 0 1 4

Sarah B. Hood

A loyal and frequent contributor to Canadian Jeweller Magazine, Sarah is a Toronto-based freelance journalist who explores the culture of fashion, food, urban life in her many books and articles. Her work has been shortlisted for the National Magazine Awards, the Kenneth R. Wilson Awards (including her work for Canadian Jeweller Magazine!) and the Taste Canada – The Food Writing Awards. In this issue, Sarah takes a look inside the world of jewellery designer extraordinaire Victoria Sorkin on page 48.

Maya Akbay

Currently serving as the Editorial Intern for Canadian Jeweller Magazine, Maya is an emerging journalist with a Bachelor of Arts in Journalism at the University of Toronto. Back in her native Istanbul, Turkey, Maya dedicated her summer hours to intern at various film production and newspaper firms. Back in Toronto, she has worked as a copy editor and reporter for the Toronto, Scarborough and East York Observer publications. Maya spoke with Robert Smith, owner of Lotus Jewellery, for this issue’s Company Profile on page 58.

Todd Wasylyshyn

Having joined the jewellery business back in 1987 as a sales clerk, Todd has since worked as a gemmologist, insurance specialist, manager and owner. Currently working as a Canadian sales representative, Todd is also an avid blogger who writes for The Toddwaz Report blog aimed at retail jewellers. He has a sincere passion for sharing the jewellery industry’s best practices and for this issue, Todd discusses timesaving strategies for your business on page 72.

Contributors

Behind the Scenes We were extremely honoured when we got the news that Birks decided to collaborate with us by appearing on one of Canadian Jeweller Magazine’s covers. For our May/June issue, we interviewed Jean-Christophe Bédos, CEO of Birks, and photographer Christian Fleury captured the story at the stunning Square Phillips flagship location in Montréal. While Fleury’s talents speak for themselves, it was not difficult to make the final photo selects for this issue since the Montréal Birks store boasts a striking 18,000 square-foot interior layout complete with marble floors and dramatic high ceilings. We also had the wonderful opportunity to sit down and talk to M. Bedos about his journey in the jewellery industry prior to joining Birks, the changes that the brand has undergone along with his assistance, as well as the exciting new plans that lie ahead for the retailer in the very near future. CJ

Top photo: M. Bédos, CEO of Birks Right and bottom photos: M. Bédos and Birks Public Relations Manager Francis Guindon

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

M A Y/J U N E 2 0 1 4

Atlantic

Engraving

Product Showcase

New from our Passion Noir Collection, a gentlemen’s and ladies’ matching duo of a 10k white gold, 6mm comfort fit set with 4 x 0.015cts and a 14k red gold comfort fit set with 4 x 0.01cts, diamond cut on seamless tubing blanks.

Lotus Jewellery Stunning sterling silver and CZ rings from Kameleon Jewelry® with interchangeable JewelPops®. Customize each piece with any of Kameleon’s 500+ available JewelPops®, including new designs to be released in June. Suggested retail price: rings $99 and $69; assorted JewelPops $19 to $54. Visit us online at jewelpop.com or call 1-866-431-4484 for more information.

GIA

Introducing the GIA 4Cs App – Retailer Edition for iPad. GIA is using the latest technology to help educate and engage consumers in a conversation about the 4Cs of diamond quality. Designed to be used at point of sale, the app features video and interactive tools to educate customers about how GIA grades the 4Cs and offers direct access to GIA’s online database of GIA reports.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

M A Y/J U N E 2 0 1 4

Best Bargains Stackable rings are all the rage! Why wear just one when you can customize your ring to your outfit by wearing many of the same shade or trying a mix of different colours? These gorgeous rings are contemporary and fun. Available in 10k yellow gold and with assorted gemstones. Retail value: $450.

Mary Jewellery New from Mary Jewellery – stunning pink gold bands! Available in 10k and 14k, these rings are stocked and ready for immediate delivery. Mary Jewellery is one of the leading jewellery wholesalers in Canada.

ELLE Time and Jewelry

ELLE Time and Jewelry collections offer a distinguished look that is chic, modern and bold. Like the pages of ELLE magazine, ELLE jewellery evolves from season to season, merging fashion trends and classic designs together to celebrate a woman’s love for personal style. The ELLE “Compass Rose” collection features unique patterns with beautiful colours and flare. Showcasing sterling silver, gold plating and genuine amazonite, it’s time to get the attention you deserve.

M A Y/J U N E 2 0 1 4

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Stuller

Product Showcase

Mountings 2014-2015 is 992 pages of everything Stuller has to offer: our most up-to-date, comprehensive assortment of product available. With value-added benefits such as rendered photography for enhanced quality, more intuitive navigation and our newest collections in bridal and jewellery, it’s a must-have on your sales counter. Visit us online at stuller.com.

Nova

Nova Diamonds is always a step ahead. This month we are featuring our full finger double shank floral ring. This ring is available in three styles, including beautiful white, yellow and rose gold. The design features added brilliance by incorporating over three carats of round diamonds. Approximate retail price: $11,000.

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company Founded by jewellers for jewellers, Jewelers Mutual is the only insurance company dedicated solely to the jewellery industry in Canada and the United States. Offering coverage for jewellery businesses in retail, repair, custom design, jewellery appraising, wholesale, and manufacturing, Jewelers Mutual has earned 27 consecutive ratings of “A+ Superior” from A.M. Best Company, the insurance industry’s provider of financial data and credit ratings.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Star Watch

Dazzling Divas

There was no shortage of sparkle during this season’s red carpet rundown. Whether stepping out for a movie premiere or attending a post-Oscar bash, models and actresses alike made sure to leave a radiant impression.

Charming Couture Ellie Kemper gave many other actresses a run for their money at the 2014 Vanity Fair Oscar Party hosted by Graydon Carter in West Hollywood, California. The Office star looked absolutely divine in a nude Georges Hobeika gown with a sequined bodice, Stuart Weitzman shoes and a Swarovski clutch. Her look wasn’t complete without jewels from Brumani, which included Sissi Couture earrings ($17,055), bracelet ($17,024) and ring ($8,446) all set in 18k white gold and featuring round white diamonds as well as gorgeous morganite.

Seductive Siren

Model Magic Bar Paly was astonishing when she showed up at the Los Angeles premiere of Non-Stop at the Regency Village Theatre in Westwood, California. The striking model wore a dramatic, black silk sheath dress featuring sheer, silk long sleeves by Zuhair Murad from the Resort 2014 Ready-to-Wear Collection. She added a big dose of sparkle to her look with Le Vian 10.62ct white diamond drop earrings ($51,998) that any girl would only dream of.

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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Chrissy Teigen is quickly becoming a household name after appearing on the 50th anniversary cover of the latest Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue alongside models Nina Agdal and Lily Aldridge. Teigen also made a splash when she wore a Fyodor Golan Spring 2014 crisscross bustier halter colour block top in snakeskin with a matching panel skirt to the Club SI Swimsuit event at LIV Nightclub at Fontainebleau Miami Beach, Florida. She finished her ensemble with a pair of Christian Louboutin ‘Decollete’ patent leather red sole pumps, a Jimmy Choo clutch, and a glittering Demarco 3.56ct diamond and rose gold knot ring ($14,250).

Trade Shows

What’s On It’s trade show season and we’re very excited to be a part of some of the hottest shows in North America. Here is a list of key dates, locations and contacts for the top shows around the world in the coming months to make YOUR life easier:

May May 4 – May 7: International Fashion Jewelry & Accessory Show (New York) ifjag.com May 10 – May 13: VicenzaOro Spring (Vicenza, Italy) vicenzafiera.it May 26 – May 29: GLDA (The Gem & Lapidary Dealers Association) Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Show (Las Vegas) glda.com May 27 – May 29: LUXURY (Las Vegas) luxury.jckonline.com May 29 – June 2: AGTA GemFair at the JCK Las Vegas Show (Las Vegas) agta.org May 29 – June 2: Couture (Las Vegas) thecoutureshow.com May 29 – June 1: Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show (Las Vegas) usantiqueshows.com May 30 – June 2: JCK Las Vegas (Las Vegas) lasvegas.jckonline.com

June June 19 – June 22: Asia's Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair (Hong Kong) exhibitions.asiafja.com/6fj June 19 – June 22: Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (Hong Kong) exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/6JG

July July 1 – July 2: Jovella-The 11th International Jewelry Exhibition in Israel (Tel-Aviv) stier.co.il/Jovella/index_en.asp July 3 – July 6: Singapore International Jewelry Expo (Singapore) sije.com.sg July 17 – July 21: India International Jewellery Show 2014 (Mumbai) iijs.org July 18 – July 21: Malaysia International Jewellery Fair 2014 (Kuala Lumpur) elite.com.my July 25 – July 27: The Gem Expo (Toronto) thegemexpo.com July 25 – July 28: New York Antique Jewelry & Watch Show (New York) usantiqueshows.com July 27 – July 29: JA New York Summer Show (New York) ja-newyork.com July 28 – July 29: International Watch & Jewelry Guild Show (Brooklyn) iwjg.com

August August 10 – August 12: Canadian Jewellery Expos-Toronto (Toronto) cjexpos.com August 10 – August 12: Mode Accessories Show (Toronto) mode-accessories.com August 10 – August 13: CGTA Toronto Gift Show (Toronto) torontogiftshow.com August 15 – August 17: Canadian Jewellery Expos-Edmonton (Edmonton) cjexpos.com August 24 – August 26: Expo Prestige (Montreal) info@cbq.qc.ca August 26 – August 28: Japan Jewellery Fair (Tokyo) asiafja.com

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

M A Y/J U N E 2 0 1 4

Best Bargains

CELEBRATING

YEARS

IN THE SHOW BUSINESS

Thank you for your continued patronage. Receive 7% off any order over $1000 at the AGTA Vegas Show, Booth #639! In the meantime check out some of our brand new products!

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a. a.

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For the Record

News/Trends/Events Montblanc launches new boutique in Montreal In a move to expand its footprint in Canada, Montblanc is set on opening up a concept boutique on Rue de La Montagne in Montreal, Quebec. This will be the second Montblanc store in the Montreal area and the fourth free-standing Montblanc location in Canada. The new store will feature collections of men and women’s timepieces, jewellery, leather accessories, and writing instruments. The 1,143-square foot boutique will showcase a blue stone exterior and interior decorated in millwork design done by Trial Design, an architectural millworker from Montreal. Also, to celebrate the 90th anniversary of its iconic fountain pen, Meisterstuck Writing Instrument, Montblanc has launched the Meisterstuck Collection, featuring leather goods, jewellery, timepieces, and a new Meisterstuck as a limited edition. The new boutique will also feature products with softer blonde wood accents for women. In additon to all of this, a few months ago, Australian actor Hugh Jackman was announced as the brand’s Global Brand Ambassador, excluding the U.S. “We are looking forward to welcoming customers to our new boutique and offering them the very finest European crafted products on the market today," says Montblanc North America’s President and CEO, Mike Giannattasio. "We are thrilled to introduce our clients to our Meisterstuck Heritage Collection as it continues to assert Montblanc's savoir-faire and our vision for the future of luxury writing instruments as lifetime companions."

Apple ventures into jewellery and watch industries Apple has extended its corporate trademark to Class 14, which is the category of jewellery and watches. This is a strong indication that the company has plans to launch an iWatch, according to a report from a site called Macrumors. Engineers at Apple have been relentlessly trying to elongate battery power by working on alternative methods for batteries and even attempting to build a smaller battery with solar charging for iPhones and iPods. According to the New York Times, Apple continues to experiment with solar charging, which comes with its obstacles. Former Apple Vice President Tony Fadell, who has played a big part in Apple’s iPod and iPhone development, told the New York Times that because mobile devices are often inside pockets or bags when people are outdoors, they’re not able to absorb enough solar energy as indoor artificial light only generates a small amount of energy. When it comes to wristwatches, Apple is reported to be testing out a wireless battery method of magnetic induction, similarly used by Nokia for some of their smartphones, by placing a phone on a charging plate and using an electrical current that creates a magnetic field and voltage to power the phone. The Macrumors site says that the company has extended the trademark for Class 14 in several overseas jurisdictions, but not in the United States as of yet. It predicts that Apple will release iWatch later this year. The New York Times predicted earlier this year that the watch could indeed use solar power or another form of wireless charging to work. The watch is rumoured to have a curved glass screen to add the solar-charging layer.

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Michael Hill Canadian stores report highest sales Michael Hill, a specialty retailer of jewellery that ranges from diamond engagement rings and diamond jewellery to earrings, watches, bracelets and charms, announced that their same-store sales have increased three per cent in nine months. Overall same-store sales for the brand, including the stores in Australia, New Zealand and Canada, are up five per cent from last year. Total sales for the Australian company are up 11 per cent in that nine-month period, ending March 31. Canadian stores have the highest performance, with a nine per cent same-store sales increase. Sales rose to $372 million from $336 million last year, with Canadian sales in particular surging 30.6 per cent to $52.5 million ($48 million AUD). At the end of 2013, Michael Hill released the launch of four new websites with new web designs, products, a charm bracelet builder, and user-generated content. Michael Hill was founded in New Zealand in 1979 by Michael & Christine Hill, relocating to Australia in 2008. The company is recognized globally for its heritage-filled background and milestones. The first Canadian store opened in 2002, followed by over 40 stores throughout the country, and 270 in the world. The brand is planning on opening 1,000 stores worldwide by 2022.

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M足足足

For the Record

Martin Ross Group eliminates jewellery lines not produced in Canada The Martin Ross Group Inc. has announced that it will stop distributing a number of wholesale product lines that are not manufactured in Canada in order to abide by their “made in Canada” values. The largest Canadian fine jewellery company to still manufacture in Canada, the company will hold it a priority to meet the growing demand for its fine jewellery in Canada, the U.S. and the U.K. Product lines that have been eliminated are the My First Diamond, Currency, Gold ‘N Dreams, Gold ‘N Gifts & Hot Diamonds lines, which were previously distributed through the company’s Master Design Division. “These wholesale product lines were a small part of our business,” says President and Chief Operating Officer Cameron Gillies. “We want to devote all of our resources to what we do best: designing and handcrafting the finest jewellery that is truly made in Canada, not overseas or south of the U.S. border. By eliminating these wholesale product lines, we cut costs and maintain our competitive edge so that we can continue to manufacture in Canada.” The company and its two divisions, Libman and Master Design, are proud to manufacture 100 per cent and 80 per cent of their jewellery in Canada, respectively.

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Calgary jewellery designer Bhawana Clark has designed a necklace called ‘We Are One’ as part of a project that promotes being kind to others around you in order to spread joy and be inter-connected globally through kindness. “I just thought how energetically we are connected and I wanted to bring that across with my jewellery,” says Clark. “I always wanted to do healing work so this my way of bringing healing into the world, not only through the stones but my words as well. Hopefully help transform and inspire people’s thinking and people’s consciousness.” The collection also includes 30 sterling silver necklaces with chalcedony or citrine stones, as well as rose quartz stones with the words “We Are One” and “Love” on them. The pieces cost around $475. Chalcedony is a nurturing stone that is believed to help with goodwill and group stability, absorbing negative energy and getting rid of it. Rose quartz is seen as the stone of unconditional love. Citrine is seen as a healing and cleansing stone affecting joy, wealth, and self-esteem.

Ottimo Creations welcomes new rep and announces new partnership Ottimo Creations has announced that John Tays will be joining their team along with a new roster of watch brands including Fendi, TW Steel, Marc Coblen, Swiss Tradition and 2(x)ist. Prior to this, Tays serviced Atlantic Canada since 1981 and has represented Cadman Manufacturing and other jewellery lines since 1970 along with his father. He was previously president of the Atlantic Jewellers Travellers Association for two terms. “We are proud to have John join our sales team alongside Robert Potvin of Quebec, Jim Tereschuk of Ontario and Jeremy Murray of Montreal and we are currently looking for someone to join us for Western Canada,” says Steve Levy of Ottimo Creations. Ottimo Creations has also revealed a new partnership with Gord Pomerantz, who previously worked in the electronic component distribution and contract manufacturing industries. According to Levy, “Bringing with him a philosophy of strong customer sales and support, and a strong financial administrative background, [Pomerantz] will be a strong asset for the company’s targeted future growth and wellbeing.”

Tammy Kidder appointed as vice president of Stuller Tammy Kidder, former executive director of corporate operations at Stuller Inc., has been promoted to the position of vice president of findings, metals and recycled materials. Having worked in numerous divisions of Stuller previously, including product design and development, merchandising, materials control and procurement, Kidder first joined Stuller in 1994. Shawn Montgomery, current executive director of customer experience, will be appointed as vice president of sales. Montgomery has been with Stuller for 18 years, having led a leadership role in introducing the CRM system for Stuller to seek “The Perfect Customer Experience” for its customers.

Swatch denied by court to trademark ‘Tourbillon’ logo Swatch Group’s attempts to register the Tourbillon logo for its Tourbillon boutiques was not approved by the U.S. trademark board on the grounds that the logo could deprive competitors of advertising their own tourbillon products. Swatch Group filed a request with the board to register the logo back in 2011, with the logo featuring the word “Tourbillon.” The request was denied on the grounds that it “merely describes the goods,” according to court papers. Swatch Group’s reconsideration request was denied and an appeal was again denied on April 18, ruling the image of a tourbillon mechanism in the logo to be lacking “imagination, thought or perception to reach a conclusion as to the nature of the goods.”

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

For the Record

Vancouver-based Pyrrha partners with HBO for Game of Thrones jewellery Fans of HBO’s highly acclaimed show Game of Thrones will be thrilled to know that they can now wear jewellery pieces inspired by the series. An official collection of talisman necklaces and rings created by Vancouverbased Pyrrha hit stores on April 4. The handcrafted collection is along the lines of Pyrrha’s signature style of mimicking antique wax seals. The collection features the sigils and mottos of the six Game of Thrones families, including Baratheon, Greyjoy, Lannister, Stark, Targaryen, and Tyrell. Available in reclaimed silver or bronze, the collection ranges from $98 to $900, with the necklaces retailing at $226. “It’s a perfect collaboration,” says Pyrrha co-founder Danielle Wilmore. The company was named after a mythical Greek character and has a nearly twenty year history of designing personal talismans with heraldry, medieval, botanical and ancient motifs making the new collaboration a natural fit. Both Wilmore and her co-designer husband Wade are big fans of the show. Wilmore was initially approached with the idea by HBO licensing executives at a New York jewellery trade show two years ago. CJ

Pyrrha X Game of Thrones House Stark, House Baratheon and House Lannister sterling silver unisex talisman necklaces, $226 each

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Mining News

On the journey towards ethical gold Learning the right lessons for building sustainable certification systems. by Maria Laura Barreto

IN FEBRUARY OF 2011, at the heart of London’s jewellery district, there was an event that commemorated the arrival of the first Artisanal and Small Scale Mining (ASM) certified gold. In her speech that afternoon, Juana Pena Endara – representing Bolivia’s Cotapata Mining Co-operative – took a full room of jewellers on an emotional journey. She spoke about the reasons for and the reality of working with ASM. She also explained the importance of the premium and the value of certification in the context of artisanal and smallscale mining. Endara’s story has become imprinted on my mind. As a single mother of four, she became a miner because she needed to provide for her family. As much as ASM was a better option than other alternatives for work, she also acknowledged that working in mining is very hard work and means a life with a lot of sacrifices. At one point in her story, Endara’s voice stumbled and her eyes filled with water. Looking around the audience, I saw many people who were moved to tears also as they clearly felt her courage, her accomplishments and the cost of the hardship she endured for her family. When she regained her composure, Endara finished with a very optimistic statement; she felt proud to be in a country where people understand the value of the gold that they produce and she emphasized that the premium the cooperative received is being used to buy new mining equipment, machines and to improve production, as well as health and safety at the mine. It was in that moment that I fully understood that in order for a certification system to work within the ASM sector, it needs to deliver real benefits for the miners and their businesses. It cannot just focus on being an additional set of requirements or standards for them to follow. Over the years, working with the ASM sector taught me two important and related lessons. The first is that the ASM sector receives very little or no support and very often, the attention it receives is negative, which creates

obstacles for the development of the sector. The second lesson is that when the sector or a specific ASM mine does receive positive and healthy business support, it responds very proactively and constructively. These lessons are important to incorporate in any certification scheme for ASM. In concrete terms, the certification system needs to, first and foremost, understand and support healthy business relationships and, it needs to design tangible benefits to be incorporated into certification so that it is strategically and financially attractive to ASM. The answer to how to best build healthy business relationships is not an easy one, especially with a sector that other businesses and stakeholders historically have tended to underestimate or undermine, either unintentionally or deliberately. In order to get the answers, my advice is to ask the miners! Or better yet, work together, business-to-business, with the ASM miners. Developing a better understanding of the needs, desires, obstacles and opportunities is critical at all stages of the commodity chain, from the miner through to the jeweller. Back in 2011, the journey toward ethically sourced gold took a major step forward. Like all journeys worth taking, it covers complicated terrain, and makes demands on those committed to take it. Endara decided the potential benefits were worth the effort for her family and her community. Since that time, we have seen considerable growth in the uptake of the ethical gold. We have even seen Fairmined™ gold profiled proudly on the red carpet at Cannes! But the journey is far from over. More investment needs to be made by all sides. The premiums need to be put to work to support the many challenges of transforming the sector, mine by mine. And businesses throughout the value chain need to work together to ensure this is a tool that delivers real, lasting, sustainable value for everyone concerned. CJ

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

CJ Gallery

The magic world of Pandora TO SHOWCASE ITS UPCOMING COLLECTIONS, Pandora hosted an exclusive media preview at the elegant Trump International Hotel & Tower in Toronto. The event highlighted Pandora’s anticipated spring, summer and preautumn releases, giving a glimpse into the gorgeous new charms and colours the brand is set on introducing in the coming months to its loyal client base. The new spring-inspired line was all about delicate, floral charms and multistring fabric and leather bracelets in feminine shades of pink, purple, lilac, violet, and periwinkle. The brand also launched a number of dainty charms inspired by lace, bows and rosebuds especially for Mother’s Day. The Summer 2014 collection, influenced by a faraway tropical paradise, promised to add a burst of colour to the new season. With tones of bright coral and rich turquoise, the new charms and bracelet combinations are guaranteed to brighten any outfit. Finally, the preview also focused on the newly unveiled Pandora Essence Collection, which is a stylish line of symbolic charms and a slender sterling silver bracelet. Designed to help the wearer convey their inner self, each charm is delicate and sophisticated and crafted from precious metals and sparkling stones like smoky quartz, grey moonstone, garnet, man-made amyethyst, aquamarine and lapis lazuli. CJ

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Hong Kong International Jewellery Show: A feast for the eyes

Above: Euro Antique Inc.

HONG KONG IS THE HOST COUNTRY for one of the biggest shows in the industry, with the 31st Hong Kong International Jewellery Show presenting a new “2 Shows 2 Venues” arrangement this year for an even more comprehensive coverage of jewellery and precious stones. The Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, which ran from March 3 to 7, took place at the AsiaWorld-Expo and covered raw materials and loose stones. Meanwhile, the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, which ran from March 5 to 9 March, featured finished jewellery pieces. Together, these shows featured an astounding number of 3,850 exhibitors from 53 different countries, bringing them together with buyers and admirers alike. The Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show kicked off with an Opening Ceremony on March 3, followed by a forum about the latest market development and opportunities for the jewellery industry in South East Asia and the Americas. Some of the brands on hand included APM Group Monaco, Elle Time & Jewelry, Annamaria Cammilli Gioelli Srl, Christopher Designs Inc, Chete Limited and many more. The Hong Kong Jewellery Show has indeed reached a milestone, and this year proved to be the best one yet. CJ

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Victoria Jewelry Design

Benjamin Chau, Deputy Executive Director

CJ Gallery

Reaping rewards at JA New York THE JA NEW YORK WINTER SHOW opened at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center a day earlier than normal, on Saturday, March 1. The buyers were invited to discover the new trends for the spring and summer seasons as well as to take advantage of the educational sessions sponsored by Jewelers of America. The sessions included seminars on how to be “likeable” on social media, how to diversify a store’s chain, and methods on increasing sales with designer jewellery. The organizers of JA New York featured daily prize draws that reached $36,000 in total. During the exhibit, 12 buyers won $2,500 each and six other winners received $1,000 each to spend on-site with one exhibitor at the show. The show also boasted six new designers this year including Katharine James, Emilio, Selin Kent, Daniel Vior, Cherry Rose and Heet. CJ

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Birks: Cover Story

Celebrating a milestone

Every company, brand and organization has a leader. A fearless leader if you will. So it's no wonder that Birks, one of the world's most renowned diamond and jewellery names, chose to place Jean-Christophe Bédos at its helm more than four years ago. Smart, passionate and fearless, Bédos has taken the brand on a journey toward what we know today as a top-notch Canadian jeweller. by Irina Lytchak photography by Christian Fleury

THIS IS A VERY BIG YEAR FOR BIRKS. The prestigious jeweller is celebrating its 135th anniversary (sharing the milestone with our very own magazine) as well as the 120th anniversary of Birks opening its fashion store at Square Phillips in Montreal. To mark these occasions, the company unveiled a new corporate identity, released The Diamond Book in 2013, and has been prepping with a series of rebranding tactics and initiatives leading up to 2014. “135 is a strong number,” says M. Bédos. “Therefore, I gave everyone in the organization working on the brand a deadline. The changes for the brand were to be ready either before or by 2014 and it was really a reinvention of the brand. If not reinventing, it was about refocusing the brand for what it stands for.”

Revamping the “diamond” Since its establishment in 1879, Birks has always featured the diamond shape as an integral part of its overall image and its logo. In order to reconnect with the past and pay homage to the true value behind the jeweller’s roots, the new Birks marketing campaigns have been incorporating the diamond design elements and in turn, solidifying the connection between the strength of the diamond shape and the strength of the brand. This ideology is also found in The Diamond Book, in which the brand puts its own unique spin on the standard 4Cs with a list of 8Cs that stand for Canadian, Commitment, Carat, Colour, Clarity, Cut, Character, and Celebration. “We thought of the diamond shape as being a symbol of our diamond specialty,” says M. Bédos. “This is how we describe to our customers the strength of Birks in the diamond business and how we differentiate ourselves from other jewellers. And this is how the guarantee of origin to the mine is given on the diamonds.”

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FEBRUARY 2014

C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M 足足足

“A true Canadian jeweller should be all about Canada.” – Jean-Christophe Bédos Ethically responsible As part of its new corporate identity and to stand out from the many other Canadian jewellers that sell Canadian diamonds, Birks now also provides customers with the guarantee of traceability – a development that was introduced back in 2013. “We realized that we don’t want to, in terms of identity, be perceived as a jeweller who gets influenced from Europe or from the U.S.,” says M. Bedos. “A true Canadian jeweller should be all about Canada. So this was made to invest heavily on having 100 per cent of our diamonds be Canadian.” Today, the center stone on engagement rings produced by Birks has a laser-engraved, individual number that allows the owner to trace its origin with the help of the company’s website. Each diamond also comes with a seal guaranteeing that it is Canadian-made as well as a certificate detailing the stone, its uniqueness and where exactly it was mined. “What really makes Birks different against any international jeweller in the world, is the fact that we offer traceability and guarantee of origin of our diamonds,” says M. Bédos. “This gives the reassurance to consumers that our diamonds are pure – pure because Canada is a country where mining is more ethical than any other diamond producing country in the world.”

Truly Canadian Last year also served as a focal point for Birks to refocus its entire brand toward a single source of inspiration – that source being Canadian nature. Over the past 18 months, the jeweller has released a series of collections in harmony with this idea, including the Birks Snowflake, Birks Splash, and Birks Roseé du Matin collections. “Canada is a country that represents a unique sense of space because there’s no frontier,” he explains. “Most countries have boundaries but Canada

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doesn’t have a northern boundary so it gives you a feeling that there’s no limit and a very strong inspiration for pioneering things. And Birks should represent that.” He explains that as far as Canadian nature goes, the team behind Birks centered on three specific elements to draw inspiration from, which include wood for the vastness of the Canadian forest, water in all of its existing forms, and the sky, whether it’s a rich blue or a deep black illuminated by the Northern lights.

A passion from within All of Birks’ recent changes and developments have been carried out under the direction of M. Bédos, who is too humble to admit this fact. Instead, he credits the company’s success to the team behind the name. “The people I work with are very generous,” he says. “Everyone generates ideas and looks for inspiration. All of these projects started from working together. And that’s what I really like about my job – working with the other people in the company.” Before joining the company, M. Bédos spent seven years with Boucheron in Paris, which he joined after working for quite some time with Cartier at Richemont. It’s fair to say that he brought a lot of expertise with him upon joining Birks but it’s really his passion that comes through the most in his work. “Isn’t it wonderful to do a job that coincides with your passion? I don’t feel like I’m going to work,” he says. “It’s interesting because you have to realize that the image of Canada outside of it is way better and more beautiful than what Canadian people think. Canada is a very inspiring country. We decided with my family to immigrate to Canada and become Canadian. So, yes I feel very proud.”

Square Phillips flagship store in Montreal

Square Phillips flagship store in Montreal, interior

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M 足足足

Defining the future During our interview with M. Bédos, it was also revealed that Birks is set on unveiling a new Corporate Social Responsibility platform later this month. Closely tying together its 135th milestone and the celebration of Canadian heritage and nature, Birks will be announcing its support for the preservation of the honeybees since their extinction threatens the entire global population. In an effort to preserve the future, Birks has unveiled a new jewellery collection inspired by bees and honeycombs as well as a partnership with the University of Guelph. Sales of the Birks’ silver honeycomb-shaped pendant will go toward raising funds for the Honey Bee Research Centre at the University of Guelph in Ontario. The jeweller will also be promoting urban beekeeping with the support of Montreal-based company Alveole. It is an honour for Canadian Jeweller Magazine to share our 135th anniversary with Birks this year. Not only is this century-old brand an integral part of our history and Canadian culture, but we also applaud Birks’ dedication to diamond traceability as well as its efforts to preserving the environment and thinking of our future as a global society. These are all qualities that bring Birks outside of the realm of the standard role of what it means to be a jeweller.

Stackable ring in 18k yellow gold from the Birks Bee ChicTM collection, $695

“What really makes Birks different against any international jeweller in the world, is the fact that we offer traceability and guarantee of origin of our diamonds.” – Jean-Christophe Bédos AT A GL A NCE NAME: Birks LOCATIONS: 31 in Canada; six flagship stores in Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto, Calgary, Edmonton and Vancouver KNOWN FOR: Canadian diamonds, jewellery, timepieces, silverware and gifts BRANDS: Bvlgari, Baume & Mercier, Montblanc, Gucci, Frederique Constant, Zenith, Breitling, Cartier, Tag Heuer, Bedat, Corum, Roberto Coin, Van Cleef & Arpels (Toronto and Vancouver only), etc. COOL FACTOR: Before the 1930’s, the Birks boxes were a grey colour but ever since William Birks introduced the Blue Box, it has become a statement symbol of the House of Birks.

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1. Pendant in 18k yellow gold with .03ct diamond accent from the Birks Bee ChicTM collection, $2,695 2. Drop earrings in 18k yellow gold with 0.03ct diamond accent (each) from the Birks Bee ChicTM collection, $3,295 3. Ring in 18k yellow gold from the Birks Bee ChicTM collection, $1,695 4. Sterling silver pendant with citrine accent, $150 (This silver honeycomb-shaped pendant from the Birks Bee Chic™ collection will benefit the Honey Bee Research Centre, as 10% of sales will be donated to the University of Guelph in Ontario.)

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

Designer Profile

String of successes Victoria Sorkin weaves colourful stories with her beaded creations. by Sarah B. Hood

All pieces on this and opposite page from the Holitache Collection

“EVERY TIME I CREATE ONE OF MY PIECES, I envision a noble woman,” says Ukrainian-born jewellery designer Victoria Sorkin. Although she has only lived in Canada for a little over three years, she has already established her unique, handmade brand and is working to develop it from a part-time proposition to a full-scale business. “All of my collections always use beads, semiprecious stones, gemstones, freshwater pearls and Swarovski crystals,” she says. Sorkin’s work is striking for its vivid colour harmonies and sometimes, for its interplay of unusual tones like yellow with violet or turquoise with orange. Not only that, but her pieces have original and evocative names like ‘Night of Stars,’ ‘Infinitely Calm,’ and ‘Latin Dance.’ At the moment, Sorkin is showing four collections, of which the Holitache Collection is the most prominent. The name of the collection combines two words: “soutache,” a beadwork technique that involves sewing multiple strands of cord or ribbon by hand in order to sculpt them into shapes that will frame and anchor the various beads, and “Holi,” the Hindu religious festival of colours. Sorkin’s line of work also includes a Wedding Collection and a Royal Collection, both boasting large pieces with grand stones and bold beads. The Little Wonders line uses similar designs, but features smaller elements and pieces. Price points vary widely. Victoria Sorkin

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Egyptian Oasis Collection Necklace

“I have pieces starting from $45 for very small earrings, and I have statement pieces that would go up to $600 in the Holitache Collection,” she says. For the Royal and Wedding Collections, prices go even higher, with one-of-akind statement pieces ranging between $300 and $1,500. “When I’m creating, for me there is no season, because what I do is colourful,” she says. “I do look at fashion, what is the colour of the year, so people will find the fit in my collection, but I don’t really do spring, fall and summer. I’m creating everyday, new jewellery. For me, to stick to just one collection – I can’t do it, because it’s art!” Born in the small town of Stakhanov, Ukraine, Sorkin had the opportunity to travel extensively in the Soviet Union as a child, soaking up architectural and design influences around her. When she was about 12, her family moved to Israel, where she grew up, obtained a finance degree and married. It was there that she was first exposed to jewellery design, almost by chance. “I had a three-hour beading course,” she laughs. “No, really. It was when my second child was born. During my maternity leave, I was with two kids, tired, and my husband knows how I like to do things creative.” Sorkin’s husband arranged for her to take a beginner’s beading course as a gift. “From that moment, I fell in love with the structures and with what you can create,” she says.

In late 2010, the family moved to Canada. “Canada is a peaceful place, and Israel, is not so peaceful,” she says. “I have two boys and I just decided that I didn’t want my kids to grow up with that.” With some family members already in Canada, the young family was settling happily into their new country; however, in 2011, Sorkin’s husband fell seriously ill. During his convalescence, he helped her develop her business, “and when he recovered, I decided I had to go with my passion,” she says. Today, Sorkin’s work is carried in seven locations in Toronto and one in Montreal, with an additional outlet in Los Angeles coming on board very soon. “I have a lot of sales, but this is not full-time right now,” she says. For now, she works days in a financial institution, “but my main passion is jewellery, and my main work is to become 100 per cent in the jewellery industry.” With her family obligations, her day job and her personal aspirations, she says it’s like, “having three jobs.” It’s the evenings that give her time to design and be creative. “I can create five to ten pieces in an evening because I’m by myself and everything is flowing; every artist has their moment.” “I’m not creating trendy jewellery,” says Sorkin. “I believe that jewellery is something that you want to carry on for generations. I want people who buy my jewellery to feel it.” CJ

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

CJ Interview

Like father, like daughter This year at Baselworld, Pasquale Bruni’s booth was extremely hard to miss. The towering white exterior, adorned in shapes of the brand’s signature five-petal flowers, beckoned visitors to come inside and see what the Italian jewellery house had to offer. We had the unique opportunity to sit down with Eugenia Bruni, creative director for Pasquale Bruni SpA, and delve into her inspirations for designing jewellery that most women can only dream of. by Irina Lytchak

ESTABLISHED IN 1997 BY PASQUALE BRUNI in the quaint city of Valenza, Italy, the brand has evolved into a luxury house known for ultra-feminine designs nurtured under the direction of Pasquale’s daughter Eugenia. Pasquale embarked on his journey into the world of goldsmithing as a little boy by assisting in workshops around Valenza. His talents were later transitioned to his daughter, who today, is the mastermind behind the brand’s exquisite creations. But before taking on this role, Eugenia had already dipped her toes into the family’s pool of creativity, having worked under her father’s direction from a very young age. It was only a matter of time before she’d take the plunge. “I started to work at the age of 13 with my father,” she says. “He always brought me with him to the factory, so it was really important for me to grow with the company and it was important for me to have contact with the clients. That’s what makes the difference today.” Being immersed in this industry so early on helped Eugenia learn the importance of what it means to design jewellery for a woman. “My father always told me, “It’s not only the fantasy or the art or the thought you have in mind that’s important. What’s important is how to create this jewellery for a woman who will be wearing it,” she says. “I have this connection with my client; I know what they need.”

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Top left: SISSI rings; Above: Eugenia Bruni wearing Prato Fiortio and Liberty

But aside from responding to her clients’ desires, Eugenia borrows a lot of her ideas from her surroundings and garners inspiration from the places that she’s traveled to in the past. “I think that nature is the most inspiring because it’s wherever we look around; it really gives inspiration every time,” she says. The Bon Ton and Bon Ton Bonheur collections in particular, which are defined by the five-petal flower shape and flaunt delicate shades of milky, smoky and rose quartz, are a direct reflection of Eugenia’s attraction to nature. Meanwhile the Madame Eiffel Collection was inspired by a visit to Paris and Eugenia’s passion for the idea of ‘love.’ “Paris is the place where you love the most and I think love is the most important thing in life. Paris is a place where people not just love each other, but it’s a place that represents love; when you see it, you feel love inside.” Eugenia’s appreciation for all things connected with ‘love’ also extended itself into the designs of the Sissi Io Amo Collection. Born out of an admiration for Elisabetta Amalia Eugenia of Wittelsbach, an Austrian Empress and Queen of Hungary, the line is speckled with the brand’s token heart emblem and features a romantic and refined amalgamation of diamonds with amethyst, London topaz, and Madeira quartz. “I’m always really into ‘love’ and I think that’s because we do our work with passion,” she says. Many of us dream of not working a day in our lives, and for Eugenia, that dream has always been a reality – she doesn’t consider her role at Pasquale Bruni a job. “When you grow up with [jewellery] as a part of your life, it’s the first thought when I wake up and it’s my last thought when I go to sleep,” she says. “Jewellery is a constant experiment. When you create something, it’s kind of like you’re creating beauty. And the most beautiful things in life are always imaginative. For me, it’s a joy when I see people wearing our jewellery. They understand what’s behind it and the passion – this is what I like the most.” CJ

CJ en français

Les Nouvelles

par Véronique Dubé

Stornoway : Québec serait prêt à ajouter 100 millions de dollars Investissement Québec a reçu le mandat du gouvernement de prendre une prise de participation additionnelle de 100 millions de dollars dans Stornoway Diamonds Corporation (TSX : T.SWY). Stornoway détient 100 % du gisement Renard, dans la région des monts Otish. Par sa filiale Diaquem, Investissement Québec est déjà le plus important actionnaire, avec près de 25 % des actions en circulation de Stornoway. Toutefois, sa participation dépasse 33 % en tenant compte des actions convertibles sans droit de vote que la société d'État détient. La porte-parole d’Investissement Québec, Chantal Corbeil, a déclaré que « l’objectif est de garder notre pourcentage de participation à peu près au même niveau [environ 33 %], puisque la société discute avec d'autres partenaires ».

Primo Stingray 620 avec bracelet en acier inoxydable

Lancement de la montre Primo Stingray 620 de Citizen Inspirée de la nouvelle Corvette Stingray 2014, la montre Primo Stingray 620 se démarque par son style bien à elle. Le bracelet en cuir noir à l’image des pistes de course est rehaussé de coutures rouges. Équipée d’un chronomètre au 1/5 de seconde, d’une lunette à rochet unidirectionnelle et d’un indicateur de date, elle est étanche jusqu’à 100 mètres. Le cadran noir et le boîtier en acier inoxydable noirci sont aussi accentués de détails rouges. La famille Primo Stingray propose également des modèles avec bracelet en acier inoxydable (ton argenté ou noirci) ou en cuir brun. Modèle présenté : Primo Stingray 620 avec bracelet en acier inoxydable.

Collier Airy de Swarovski

Swarovski révèle l’ADN du bijou d’été Avec le lancement de sa collection printemps-été 2014, il n’y a pas à douter ; les bijoux Swarovski se retrouveront au cou, aux poignets, aux doigts et aux oreilles de toutes les femmes! Mélangeant avec brio les tendances de l’été — franges, mélange des métaux et des couleurs, mosaïque de pierres, fluidité, mouvement, brillance et luminosité —, Swarovski nous fait voyager et découvrir l’art du chic au quotidien. Les bijoux Airy, ornés de cristaux aux tons de terre et de franges aux placages trois tons sont saisissant par leur look à la fois tribal et urbain. On porte les manchettes et les colliers surdimensionnés avec aussi bien une tenue chic qu’avec un simple top et notre paire de jeans préférée.

40 ans d’enseignement de la joaillerie à Montréal au Musée des Maîtres et Artisans du Québec Afin de célébrer les 40 ans d’existence de L’École de Joaillerie de Montréal, le Musée des Maîtres et Artisans du Québec accueillera l’exposition rétrospective 40 ans d’enseignement de la joaillerie à Montréal du 15 septembre au 15 novembre 2014. Une sélection d’œuvres de joaillières et joailliers qui ont fréquenté l’école entre 1973 et 2013 sera exposée et un catalogue relatant l’histoire de l’établissement ainsi que les créations présentées sera réalisé. Aujourd’hui, l’école a trois principales missions; elle est d’abord partenaire du Cégep du Vieux-Montréal, mais aussi école-atelier en plus d’être un centre de recherche et de diffusion. Elle offre le DEC, en partenariat avec le Cégep du Vieux-Montréal; un programme de formation continue, échelonné sur sept niveaux; et une série de cours de perfectionnement. Des ateliers libres, des expositions et des conférences sont aussi prévus au calendrier.

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CJ en français

Lancement de nouvelles montres chez Raymond Weil Raymond Weil a dévoilé sa plus récente collection, Toccata, une gamme de montres au quartz qui offre des modèles dont le prix de départ au détail est de 750 $. En plus de la nouvelle montre édition spéciale Nabucco, la compagnie offre maintenant les populaires montres pour homme Freelancer avec un boîtier de 45 mm – l’ancien était de 42 mm. Des montres ont aussi été ajoutées aux collections Jasmine, Noemia et Freelancer pour femmes. Présentées ici, la nouvelle montre Jasmine est ornée de 113 diamants sur le boîtier et le bracelet. La Freelancer, quant à elle, est munie d’un cadran laqué noir ponctué d’index plaques en or rose et survolé d’aiguilles luminescentes.

Nouvelle montre Jasmine, ornée de 113 diamants

Movado réduit la distribution de la marque ESQ Le groupe Movado Group Inc. a annoncé à la fin du mois de mars qu’il réduisait la distribution de sa marque ESQ afin de se concentrer davantage sur les montres dites « plus productives ». Les montres ESQ seront toujours offertes chez certains détaillants, dans les magasins-entrepôts et par Movado.com. La nouvelle est sortie suite à l’annonce des résultats financiers du quatrième trimestre ainsi que pour l’ensemble de l’exercice. Le bénéfice net est passé de 7,9 millions l’an dernier à 7,2 millions cette année. Movado Group distribue les marques Movado, Ebel, Concord, ESQ Movado, Coach, Tommy Hilfiger, Hugo Boss, Juicy Couture, Lacoste et Scuderia Ferrari à travers le monde, et administre les magasins Movado aux États-Unis.

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Tel que vu lors du JA New Cristina Sabatini montre ses couleurs

L’été est à nos portes et les nouvelles créations de Cristina Sabatini, hautes en formes et en couleur, nous rappellent les chaudes nuits d’été. Intemporels, modernes et luxueux, les bijoux de la designer sont inspirés de ses nombreux voyages aux quatre coins du monde. De Hong Kong à Rio de Janeiro, en passant par Milan, Paris, New York et Miami, les souvenirs, les teintes et l’inspiration se retrouvent dans ses bijoux. Fabriqués en argent sterling et plaqués d’or jaune, rose ou de rhodium, ils sont rehaussés de cabochons en résine, de pierres naturelles et de zircons.

Swatch prend d’assaut ses boutiques avec sa nouvelle collection Seulement à Manhattan, Swatch possède cinq magasins et un shop-in-shop. À Time Square, la boutique présente les nouveaux modèles de la collection printemps-été 2014 Pastry Chefs sous leur meilleur jour, inspirée par les saveurs et petits plaisirs que vous offrent les magasins de bonbons. Avec des designs qui attirent les regards et qui ressemblent à de vrais petits délices sucrés, on a presque envie de les manger! Des macarons aux gaufres, en passant par les colliers de bonbons et les cupcakes, gageons qu’il y a de quoi satisfaire les dents sucrées. Au Québec, ce sont dans les shop-in-shop et chez les détaillants indépendants qu’on retrouve ces nouveaux modèles.

Vert émeraude, encore populaire cette année

De la couleur, de la couleur et encore de la couleur En 2014, et très probablement pour les prochaines années, parmi les tendances à surveiller, il y a bien évidemment celle des couleurs. Telles que vues lors des récentes foires de Tucson et de New York, plus elles sont vibrantes, plus on les aime! Les acheteurs avaient aussi un grand attrait pour les pierres qui proposent un éventail de nuances. Parmi les choix qui sont populaires tant pour la pierre elle-même que pour sa couleur, on note : Les saphirs : parcourant tout le spectre de l’arc-en-ciel, les saphirs sont très demandés cette année. Le prix du saphir bleu classique est d’ailleurs en hausse. Mais qu’il soit jaune, rose, orange, vert ou blanc, il orne souvent les bagues de fiançailles en raison de son symbole de sincérité et de fidélité. La couleur de l’année, Radiant Orchid : Après que Pantone l’eût nommée couleur de l’année, cette nuance, tout comme les différents tons de mauve, a volé la vedette lors de la foire de Tucson. En plus des saphirs, les pierres telles les tanzanites, les améthystes, les kunzites et les spinelles démontrent toute la profondeur de ces différents tons violacés.

Les bijoux Vincent Peach, un style boho chic exquis Vincent Peach agence chaque perle à des éléments organiques et naturels afin de créer une collection qui combine des pavés de diamants d’une grande qualité, du vermeil, de l’argent et du cuir tressé à la main. Natif de Nashville, le créateur de bijoux s’inspire également de la romance des luxueux voyages et crée une collection entièrement faite à la main et unique. Mixant l’élégance légendaire du cuir et la beauté extraordinaire des perles d’eau douce et tahitiennes, ses créations de style boho chic représentent à la fois la sophistication et le confort. Plusieurs vedettes américaines, dont Taylor Swift et Alexis Knapp, ont déjà porté ses bijoux.

Le vert, toujours le vert : Le vert émeraude avait été proclamé couleur de l’année par Pantone en 2013. Sa popularité est encore bien présente et les nuances qu’on propose n’en font qu’une couleur encore plus attrayante. Alors que les émeraudes sont très demandées – les péridots et les turquoises trouvent très bien leurs places dans le marché. Les tourmalines : Il existe une très grande variété de tourmalines. Avec ses éclats vitreux et ses couleurs très variées, elles sont très convoitées. En 1989, des mineurs brésiliens ont découvert une tourmaline comme ils n’en avaient jamais vu auparavant. Ce type de tourmaline, appelée Paraíba, possède des teintes de bleu extrêmement vives. Cette pierre très rare, colorée par du sulfate de cuivre, a atteint des prix extrêmement élevés. Kaufmann de Suisse, de Montréal, a d’ailleurs dévoilé la plus grosse tourmaline de Paraíba le 18 octobre dernier avec un poids de 191,87 carats. Célébrée par un record Guiness en 2009, la tourmaline mesure 36,44 mm par 33,75 mm par 21,95 mm.

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Les joailliers de demain

L’École de joaillerie de Montréal s’est bâtie une solide réputation au sein du monde de la joaillerie, et ce, bien au-delà de nos frontières. Reconnue pour la qualité de sa formation, elle compte aujourd’hui plus de 250 diplômés de son option joaillerie. Une rencontre avec 14 finissants de la cohorte 2014 et le personnel enseignant. par Véronique Dubé

CJ en français

À l’arrière, de gauche à droite: Stéphane Blackburn, Thomas Henkel, Éloïse Boily-Thibeault, Lynn Légaré, Francesc Peich À l’avant, de gauche à droite: Sarrah Gagnon Palin, Maxime Sornin

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L’ANNÉE DERNIÈRE A ÉTÉ MARQUANTE pour l’École de joaillerie de Montréal, qui a connu un rayonnement extraordinaire grâce à ses étudiants, ses diplômés et ses enseignants. En plus d’avoir exposé leurs œuvres dans des galeries de renommée internationale, plusieurs ont été finalistes de grands concours ou ont remporté de prestigieux prix. Le magazine Canadian Jeweller a eu la chance d’assister au cours « Projet de fin d’études » et de s’immiscer, l’espace de quelques heures, dans l’univers de ces futurs diplômés et de leurs professeurs, Lynn Légaré et Francesc Peich.

Une école, ses professeurs Chaleureusement accueillie par le directeur de l’école, Stéphane Blackburn, nous nous sommes ensuite dirigés vers une première classe, là où se trouvaient Lynn Légaré, joaillière montréalaise, et sept étudiants. Le cours « Projet de fin d’études » est porteur de l'épreuve synthèse du programme, ce qui correspond à l'examen final visant à l'obtention du diplôme. Tous les étudiants doivent réaliser un ensemble de bijoux qui comprend un collier, une bague et un bracelet. Les deux premières pièces sont conçues et évaluées selon une approche formative, alors que le bracelet représente l’épreuve finale et déterminera la note de l’étudiant. Cette journée-là, Lynn était heureuse d’avoir trouvé une solution pour le fermoir du collier d’une étudiante. « Je suis arrivée chez moi hier, et j’ai téléphoné à ma consoeur, Christine Larochelle. Toutes les deux, on a cherché

quel serait le fermoir le mieux adapté pour le collier. Finalement, ce matin, je me suis réveillée et j’avais trouvé ce qu’il fallait. » Des anecdotes comme celles-là, Lynn en a plein la tête, car à ce stade de la formation, les professeurs agissent surtout de manière proactive. « Nous sommes là pour faire évoluer leurs projets, de l’idée jusqu’au produit fini. Entre temps, il y a beaucoup d’étapes à franchir et chacune d’elle est importante. » Les professeurs mettent ainsi leur expérience au profit de leurs étudiants afin qu’ils puissent donner vie à leurs rêves. Dans la classe de Francesc Peich, joaillier-horloger originaire de Barcelone, les sept autres étudiants s’affairent à leurs créations. Entre le bruit de la lime qui façonne le métal et celui du marteau qui poinçonne l’argent, on a discuté des différents ateliers de perfectionnement qui ont lieu à l’École de joaillerie de Montréal. « La diffusion du savoir-faire, c’est la seule façon de faire connaître et de faire évoluer notre métier. Et le contact avec les différentes approches du métier enrichit ma démarche », disait Francesc Peich. Parce qu’en plus d’être partenaire du cégep du Vieux-Montréal, l’institution agit aussi comme école-atelier auprès de ses diplômés afin de faciliter leur intégration dans le marché du travail et elle répond aux besoins spécifiques de perfectionnement des joailliers professionnels. Ainsi, des joailliers et artisans viennent enseigner aux étudiants les différentes techniques qu’ils ont su parfaire au fil des années. L’école fait également la promotion du métier de joaillier et elle collabore et élabore certains projets de recherche.

Véronique Dubé, journaliste pour le magazine Canadian Jeweller, lors de la rencontre avec les étudiants

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CJ en français

Une école, ses étudiants Les goûts et les intérêts des étudiants sont bien présents et personnifient chacune des créations. Bien qu’ils aient tous suivi la même formation, la personnalité de chaque futur diplômé se fait ressentir. Et une chose est certaine, ils sont tous passionnés par leur métier et cette passion est palpable. 1. Véronique Nardella Là où les formes s’alignent, où se révèle la dimension et où les pierres brutes se marient au lustre au lustre de la calcédoine. 2. Dimitri Gagnon Morris Le souvenir d’une nuit heureuse, une scène s’anime où des étoiles bleues viendront illuminer un ciel d’argent. 3. Maxime Sornin Opulence, martelage, souvenirs d’Afrique; où le lapis trouve sa place entre l’argent et une fleur façonnée de tissu. 4. Sarrah Gagnon Palin Un collier pour tous les cous, une vague d’où déferlent des billes de verre bleutées, fragments légers. 5. Thomas Henkel Inspiration classique, agençant la modernité des formes à la richesse des améthystes de taille émeraude. 6. Valérie Kabis La nature, les éléments organiques et végétaux sont imprimés sur cette coulée de feuilles d’argent multidimensionnelles. 7. Éloïse Boily-Thibeault Les coraux des fonds marins sont transposés avec grâce et légèreté, où l’or viendra ajouter une riche touche. 8. Lauriane Lognay Nichée autour du cou, la plume surmontée d’une opale d’un côté laisse place au pan de l’autre, tête soigneusement recourbée. 9. Samuel Gélinas Lemay Un trio de bijoux où le thème de la domination est exploité avec audace, précision et unicité. 10. Claud Dubois Chalifoux Un désir d’exotisme où la douceur du bois zébré et les pyramides d’argent s’agencent en toute légèreté. 11. Deborah Rimbault D’abord inspirées du papier, des plaquettes perforées donneront naissance à une superposition d’argent où les couleurs se mélangeront. 12. Malisa Chhoeun Collier tour de cou, fines mailles d’argent, où un ruban de tissu montant révèlera le charme d’une époque lointaine. 13. Michelle Kemp Un collier où la fusion et la granulation laissent l’empreinte de leurs fragments, comme le ferait une météorite. 14. Anne Gauthier Les fils d’argent s’entrelacent, où le côté urbain s’allie à la nature. Parce qu’il se cache, bien au-delà de la parure, de véritables petits trésors derrière chaque bijou conçu par les étudiants de l’École de joaillerie de Montréal. De plus, c’est mené par une équipe dévouée que l’institution célébrera ses 40 ans d’existence cette année. Une aventure qui est loin de s’essouffler… CJ

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From humble beginnings Company Profile

It has been over two years since Canadian Jeweller Magazine spotlighted Lotus Jewellery and a lot has changed for this innovative brand. We reconnected with owner Robert Smith to talk about his company’s latest developments and creations. by Maya Akbay

Robert Smith, owner of Lotus Jewellery

This page top right: GemDrops® by JewelPop Inc. new for January 2014; Songbird with moving parts and Swarovski crystals; Owl in rose quartz and Swarovski crystals Opposite page left to right: Mirage designs in textured sterling silver in 14k gold overlay with Swarovski pearls and turquoise accents; New releases from Ice 925® by JewelPop Inc.; crafted sterling silver rings and pendants featuring Canadian Diamonds and Swarovski pearls; BoudiccaTM , a new Celtic Infused Sterling Silver Jewelry line by JewelPop Inc., combining Old World charm of traditional Celtic symbols

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TODAY, LOTUS JEWELLERY HAS EXPANDED to carry several different brands under its belt and for Smith, it’s very important that each brand fills a separate niche. “We have four jewellery designers whose main job is to come up with the designs for the brands as we try to stay fresh and create new designs all the time,” says Smith. The Canadian jewellery distribution company may be best known for Kameleon, a fun and innovative line that offers interchangeable jewellery in the form of JewelPops. JewelPops are conveniently created in one size so that the wearer can easily pop them in and out for different looks. “We’re now working with manufacturers to create JewelPops strictly out of stone and no metal material whatsoever,” explains Smith. “And we just introduced some all-murano glass JewelPops.” Kameleon is also currently working on developing all-synthetic pearl JewelPops. The goal for the brand, which transcends across all of the other Lotus lines, is to stay fresh with new designs, offer quality products, and keep a good price point. And let’s not forget GemDrops. Born out of Kameleon, this line is not completely interchangeable yet but highly appealing to jewellery and gift stores looking to offer pieces that are of “higher perceived value.” GemDrops designs include Swarovski crystals and natural stones and sometime this summer, fans of the line can expect to see a brand new display and packaging format. For those in favour of something a little more Canadian, Lotus offers ICE925 – a collection of unique designs featuring Canadian diamonds. Like the other brands under the Lotus umbrella, ICE925 has its own inhouse designer that conceptualizes this collection. “What we are trying to show people is that what they’re getting from Lotus is designed in-house, so it’s all unique,” says Smith. “That’s right across our entire portfolio of lines.” The designs for this brand include Canadian diamonds, sterling silver, and rhodium-plated pieces. Another personal favourite for Smith is the Mirage Collection from Lotus. The two-toned look of the designs sets the line apart from the others and applies to a very specific niche for those searching for a unique look. “I just like the look of the jewellery,” he says. “I think we’ve got a dynamite set-up there in terms of display and packaging.”

In order to put more focus on gift stores, Lotus released Boudicca – a Celtic-inspired line that was conceived last year. It was important for Smith and his team of designers to come up with fresh and unique designs for this latest collection. “And believe me, that’s hard to do with Celtic,” says Smith. “There are certainly a lot of east coast influences with that line. Right now, there’s Celtic motifs of fish… it’s turning out to be a popular little line for us.” The secret for Boudicca’s success so far lies in the brand’s affordable pricing and an ability to offer a combination of original and unique design elements. So what is the secret to running not one but five successful brands? For Smith, it’s been all about coming up with unique ideas, bringing them to life, and staying on the right track. He distinctly remembers coming up with the idea of interchangeable jewellery back in 2005 and from there it took roughly two years for the concept to develop into what is now JewelPop. “We demonstrated it and then it was just a matter of doing some more tests and rolling up the sleeves… because obviously every JewelPop has to sit in every piece of jewellery, which is not an easy thing to do when you’re casting metal,” says Smith. JewelPop was introduced to the public at an Atlanta jewellery show, a major show in North America, and quickly sold 50 opening orders. From there, it was a steady climb. Smith’s initial entry into the jewellery world was spontaneous and unexpected. It happened about 21 years ago during a trip to Mexico with his wife when he decided to bring some silver jewellery back to Canada and sell it to a man who eventually became his partner. While working on his wholesale jewellery business, Smith saw a demand for interchangeable jewellery and the closest thing to the concept at the time were mainly magnetic pieces that failed to offer a “high-end” look. “I knew that if we created something of good quality and a nice design, that it would be successful,” says Smith. “And that has proven to be true.” Today, Smith is still working on his firm goal of expanding overseas by securing more financial backing. His company has already had success south of the border and he is hoping for the same in Europe and Australia. In addition to all of this, Smith tells us that he is planning on launching a brand new line for both women and men in the next six to 12 months – a development that’s bound to be yet another success for Lotus Jewelry’s ever-growing collection of brands. CJ

Left: New for March 2014, Kameleon Jewelry sterling silver pedestal available in cheerful enamels, dichroic glass CZ and Swarovski crystals

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Feature

Photo courtesy of LightSpeed

Point of Sale Systems 101 Today, the right POS system is more than just about managing transactions; it’s about finding one that will manage your entire business. by Liza Marley

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“IF ALL WE NEEDED WAS A CASIO 10 KEY and a cash drawer, it would be different,” says Rodney Roberts, USA sales manager for Advanced Retail Management Systems (ARMS). But the days of the cash register are long gone. Point of sale (POS) systems have become quite complex, having evolved into an all-encompassing business solution and database. Highly advanced software allows a POS system to become an effective tool for managing business. It can collect data from a customer, create a detailed receipt, catalogue inventory, print sales reports, streamline ordering and provide stats at the push of a button – information that would once have taken extensive manpower and time to figure out manually. There are a variety of systems available today. There are several that have been designed specifically for the jewellery business, and some that are generic. Opting for one customized to the intricacies of the jewellery business give retailers an exceptional set of tools to maximize sales and proficiency; however, there are also generic ones that have a great range of functions that allow for omni-channel sales and in-store retailer support. Both varieties of POS systems integrate inventory control and sale management whether a business is based online, in a retail location or for a business that does both types of retailing. Systems like ARMS, The Edge and several others, are designed specifically for jewellery retailing. They range in functionality and user experience. A business’ size and needs may dictate which system would be most suitable, as some are adapted for larger companies or chains while other systems are more suitable for a smaller business. Larger, more complex systems may require a full-time dedicated system manager or team to maintain, while simpler systems may provide the ideal solution for a smaller business without creating the demand for additional staff.

P H O N E + 1 . 4 1 6 . 7 8 3 . 0 7 6 7 T O L L F R E E + 1 . 8 5 5 . 5 0 5 . 4 6 6 9 FA X : + 1 . 4 1 6 . 7 8 3 . 7 1 1 2 79 WINGOLD AVENUE. UNIT 5, TORONTO, ONTARIO, CANADA M6B1P5 W W W . J I M M Y C R Y S T A L C A N A D A . C O M JIMMYCRYSTALCANADA@YAHOO.CA

Feature “You need a good database structure,” explains Roberts, though he also emphasizes that the system has to be easy to use and has to accommodate the needs of the business. Roberts says that ARMS offers extensive functionality and has been designed to be configurable to a business’ specific needs. A retailer may not need or want to utilize all components of the system. Identifying the individual demands of each business maximizes the effectiveness of its POS system. It takes some training to master the functionality but ultimately, the POS system is an important tool in every aspect of daily business. “The trend started 15 to 20 years ago,” says Roberts. It revolutionized the way a store managed inventory. “A store full of diamonds and gold is a liability until it is sold,” he explains. The idea is to maximize on the stock that will move quickly. A sophisticated POS system can produce reports that illustrates what merchandise is selling well and what merchandise is not grabbing consumer interest. With this knowledge, a jewellery retailer is able to focus on maintaining inventory that sells well without tying up money in merchandise that doesn’t turn a profit quickly. ARMS even offers a Comparative Analysis between businesses so that retailers can tap into mass merchandise information, viewing industry-wide consumer trends, which allow them to become even more sophisticated and targeted when trying to develop highdemand inventory. “Inventory management starts with the purchase order. When items arrive they’re transferred to inventory when you check them off. But you can also track back orders with the vendor,” says Marco Miserendino, VP and managing director at Bijouterie Italienne. “It improves efficiency,” he adds. “Once you enter information once, it carries over.” Not only efficient, it reduces human error. “It even tracks repairs and can track items through different steps and different vendors,” he says. Merchandise is easily located, costing and delays are easy to track. Beyond inventory management, the POS system is a strong sales tool. Dax Dasilva, CEO of LightSpeed, explains that a POS system can really capitalize on that retail experience. LightSpeed, though not specifically designed for the jewellery business, offers retailers a great retail solution, bringing information to any device from mobile to tablet to computer. “Retail is undergoing a huge transformation,” Dasilva says. “The consumer is so empowered by

their mobile phone and info at their fingertips that if they come into a store they may know more than the sales rep.” Though a good retailer knows their product, the product database in a POS system puts extensive information at the sales professional’s fingertips, “empowering sales people to have the same knowledge available as an online experience would offer. “The best systems are customer oriented,” explains Dasilva. A good instore experience is “why the store is relevant,” he says. People still want that brand experience, he explains. A good POS system also allows the retailer to develop a strong relationship with their clientele. The POS system not only provides knowledge, it can collect a great amount of personal information during the transaction – from basic contact information to a client’s sizes, jewellery needs and preferences, enabling the retailer to personalize the customer experience in an ongoing relationship. Miserendino says that Bijouterie Italienne migrated to a sophisticated POS system about 15 years ago. “The POS provides a detailed, professional invoice,” he explains, “and it can also produce a wish list.” If the consumer isn’t ready to make a purchase, the retailer can create a list of the items they are considering. They can then come back at a later date to complete their purchase, or even share their wish list. “A wife may come in and develop a wish list, and her husband can then come in and buy a gift from that wish list.” Wish lists and customer data collection are also important marketing tools. The POS system “collects data, tracks customer spending and habits, which allows us to use data for marketing and email,” says Miserendino. “Our POS provides detailed, professional invoices, automates closing of day and produces end of day reports for deposits,” explains Miserendino. “The only problem is users require a lot of training. The system is reliable, but you need to take the course to understand how to use it… A POS is only as good as how you use your data to manage your business.” A good POS system literally provides so much information and comparative data that retailers need to know how to use the data the system can provide to maximize their business. From retail reports that detail year-overyear, month-over-month or any specified period they wish to examine to stats and inventory analysis, Miserendino explains, “the info is invaluable.” CJ

Photos courtesy of ARMS

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The Most Prestigious Jewellery Show in Canada Le salon de bijouterie le plus prestigieux au Canada

EXPO PRESTIGE

2 14

August 24/25/26 Les 24/25/26 août Montreal Convention Center Palais des congrès de Montréal

514 485-3333

| info@cbq.qc.ca | www.cbq.qc.ca

ROBBERY OF TRAVELING SALESPERSONS

2013 Annual Crime Report

Jewellers Vigilance Part 2

Report prepared by Janet Lamont, JVC Crime Analyst (This is Part Two of our summary of JVC’s annual crime report.)

In all of the off-premises robberies reported to JVC in 2013, a victim was physically assaulted, or threatened usually in response to some level of resistance on the part of the victim. A gun was displayed in only two of the three incidents. The violence was committed by assault or displaying of a knife or gun. The police in all three investigations believe that the subjects responsible were South American and were connected back to the Montreal area. In one occurrence, a jeweller was followed from a show in Montreal to his home in Richmond Hill where he was attacked as he was removing his product from his vehicle. Ontario Provincial Police later arrested three Colombian nationals as they came back from Montreal and York Regional Police subsequently charged them for this incident.

TRUNK AND REMOUNT SHOWS In 2013, JVC did not receive any reports regarding losses from trunk or remount shows. In August 2013 at the CJ Expo show, the Edmonton police observed several South Americans that appeared to be following jewellers. The police set up surveillance and deterred any incidents from happening. This is a result of the JVC’s awareness enhancement program in getting the word out to show organizers and police.

OFF PREMISE ROBBERY LOSSES 2009 $2,950,000

2010 $1,360,000

2011 $2,550,000

2012 $1,786,000

2013 $870,000

BREAK AND ENTERS INVOLVING TRAVELLING SALESPERSONS There were no incidents reported to JVC in 2013.

OFF-PREMISE CRIMES

OFF-PREMISE THEFT LOSSES

THIS SECTION PROVIDES STATISTICAL DATA regarding criminal attacks occurring away from the victim’s base of operations. For example, attacks against traveling jewellery salespersons, trunk and remount show operators, couriers, firms exhibiting at jewellery shows, retailers attacked away from their place of business, including at home and other industry members traveling with jewellery.

There were no off-premise theft losses reported to JVC for 2013. In 2012, off-premise theft losses accounted for $4.6 million dollars. One loss alone in 2012 was $3 million. In 2012, unattended vehicles accounted for the offpremise losses.

DOLLAR LOSSES–$870,000 Dollars losses decreased by 86.4 per cent in 2013 compared to 2012 and the number of criminal events decreased by 76.9 per cent. This report compared 13 cases in 2012 to three cases in 2013.

PERCENTAGE OF TOTAL OFF PREMISE CASES BY CRIME CATEGORY CATEGORY Robbery Theft Total

2012 $1,786,500 $4,650,000 $6,436,500

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2013 $870,000 $0 $870,000

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MOST FREQUENT CRIME SCENES The most common technique used by thieves to identify traveling salespersons is to stake out a building where a large number of jewellers reside and to follow them to various retail outlets before they strike. In 2013, two of the robbery events took place outside jewellers’ homes; an alarming trend.

SUSPECT PROFILE In the great majority of off-premises losses reported to JVC, in which suspect descriptions were provided or arrests made, male and female Hispanic suspects were indicated. Based on law enforcement reports, the majority of those arrested were found to be from Colombia and residing in Canada illegally. Local law enforcement agencies have confirmed the existence of organized criminal groups identified as South American Theft/Robbery Gangs (SATG), which concentrate their criminal activities against the jewellery industry.

MOST ACTIVE PROVINCES British Columbia and Ontario continue to be the most active provinces although some law enforcement investigations have indicated activity in the Province of Quebec.

CANADIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY CRIME LOSSES MONTH 2010 January $1,535,542 February $67,950.30 March $1,687,916 April $333,859 May $1,253,390.86 June $381,349 July $301,700 August $372,700 September $208,440 October $595,836 November $779,299 December $663,799 Totals $8,181,781

2013 2012 2011 $402,000 $1,858,300 $1,602,963 $653,300 $752,629 $212,195 $257,295 $614,799 $612,600 $108,700 $293,858 $158,032 $58,498 $908,000 $1,153,039 $24,200 $1,404,875 $2,751,629 $319,650 $2,219,877 $60,299 $668,098 $3,420,198 $190,918 $1,416,497 $661,500 $1,080,947 $627,975.89 $192,815 $512,081 $628,635.82 $1,694,216 $1,670,387.87 $56,099 $63,149 $101,500 $10,130,419 $14,660,387.87 $5,220,948.71

JVC’S AWARENESS ENHANCEMENT PROGRAM JVC’s awareness enhancement program has two goals. One is to increase the awareness of members of the jewellery and watch industry in Canada of the crime against jewellers and the ways to protect themselves and the second goal is to increase the awareness of Law Enforcement as to the impact of criminal activity on the jewellery and watch industry thereby giving greater focus to jewellery investigations. During 2013, at the first of each month JVC’s criminal analytical department sent out a recap of criminal activity for the previous month to all its members. The crime data on the JVC web site was also updated. In August 2013, JVC sent out a survey to all its members and it was interesting to note that many jewellers were using JVC crime alerts to train their staff. In 2013, JVC had nine articles on jewellery crime and crime prevention published in the Canadian Jeweller Magazine. In May 2013, at the request of Calgary Police, JVC hosted a security seminar in Calgary for local residents involved in the jewellery and watch industry. In the summer of 2013, JVC launched into social media with the development of a face book page at www.jewellersvigilance/facebook.ca.

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JVC’S SOUTHERN ONTARIO CRIME PREVENTION COALITION In October 2013, JVC hosted the first meeting of the Southern Ontario Jewellery Crime Prevention Coalition. The meeting was well attended by Toronto Police Holdup, Peel Regional Central Robbery Unit, York Regional Holdup Squad, Durham Regional Major Crime Robbery Unit, Halton Regional Police Major Crime Unit and London Police Major Crime as well as JVC Director of Loss Prevention, JVC Crime Analyst and Zale Canada Loss Prevention.

2013 Annual Crime Report

Jewellers Vigilance Part 2 JVC’S CRIME ALERTS AND GOOD NEWS BULLETINS BY MONTH MONTH January February March April May June July August September October November December Totals

2012 ALERTS 9 8 6 7 12 9 12 6 6 3 3 3 84

2012 GOOD NEWS 5 1 0 2 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 12

2013 ALERTS 5 7 5 4 5 0 1 7 7 7 6 6 60

2013 GOOD NEWS 0 0 1 0 0 2 1 2 0 0 1 0 7

In the spring of 2013, with the assistance of Jewelers Mutual, JVC arranged for three police officers from Canada to attend the JSA security seminar in Las Vegas. Officers from Vancouver, Calgary and York Region were able to network with members of the FBI as well as New York City Police. In 2013, JVC was successful in having York Regional Police approve Det. Doug Bedford to become an advisor to the JVC Board of Directors. In 2013, JVC developed a “Police Only” database on the JVC web site. This database lists all jewellery crime that was reported to JVC in 2012 and 2013. It has become a valuable tool for law enforcement, helpinga police investigators or crime analysts research jewellery incidents across Canada. In May of 2013, JVC was a major sponsor in a robbery investigators seminar which was hosted by the Vancouver Police. The three-day seminar was attended by over 150 police investigators and private security personnel. In August 2013, with assistance from Jewelers Mutual, JVC paid to send a police officer from Vancouver to a jewellery crime seminar held by Kelly Ross, a former RCMP officer. JVC will be looking at sending more officers in 2014 as this has proven to increase awareness, focus and helps build the strong relationship between JVC and police.

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JVC/JM POLICE APPRECIATION AWARD In January 2013, JVC President, Duncan Parker, presented the JVC/JM Police Appreciation Award to the Durham Regional Police Robbery Unit for their successful investigation of a major and violent jewellery store robbery in Oshawa. The investigation revealed ties back into Montreal.

JVC SOURCES OF CASE INFORMATION

• JVC membership (manufacturing, wholesale and retail doors) • JVC law enforcement information sharing network • Local jewellers crime prevention networks • Non-member crime victims • Media, trade publications, general public, online sources

The statistics provided in this report are based solely on information obtained by JVC. Only information that in the opinion of JVC is credible is used in the compilation of these statistics. It can be verified in some way as to its accuracy. The loss values reported should be considered conservative, and may be greater than indicated. It is not possible for JVC to obtain information on every jewellery/watch industry crime that occurs in Canada for several reasons, not limited to the fact that many go unreported, even to the police. The JVC database is the largest and most accurate in existence in Canada and growing. By not reporting losses, we all become victims.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS In 2013, JVC continued its focus on building strong partnerships not only with members of the industry but with law enforcement as well. Building a strong crime prevention team has been key to reducing jewellery crime and preventing victimization of members of this industry. JVC would like to acknowledge John Kennedy, president of Jewelers Security Alliance (JSA) for his continuing support of JVC's Crime Prevention Program. It is with the help of JSA that JVC has been able to attend JSA's annual workshop in the US. John's willingness to share information has made a positive difference. One of the most important partnerships JVC has is with Jewellers Mutual Insurance Company (JM). Since 2004 JM has been a strong and constant supporter of the JVC’s Crime Prevention Program. David Sexton, vice president of Loss Prevention for JM, sits on the JVC Board of Directors. His guidance and vast knowledge of LP concerns in North America has been invaluable in building a strong program. JM joins JVC in presenting our Law Enforcement Award of Merit to deserving police. Thank you to JM and David Sexton. JM, JSA and JVC have similar views on the extreme importance of developing law enforcement relationships and the importance and necessity of networking. Strong partnerships like this within the Canadian jewellery and watch industry and with law enforcement can only help to move the thin blue line the police are able to provide to protect us against crime to a more solid barrier to crime. CJ

Not Just Any Diamond in the Rough

JVC’s 18th Annual Golf Tournament, Dinner & Silent Auction Join us and play the south course, which tested some of the world’s finest golfers during the 2002 Bell Canadian Open.

Monday, June 16, 2014 at the Angus Glen Golf Club in Markham, Ontario

For more information, contact: Carla Adams 416-368-4840 or info@jewellersvigilance.ca

Jewellers Vigilance Canada An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry. CRIME PREVENTION • RESOURCE PROTECTION • SAFETY AWARENESS

The best mix for your store Feature

How to stay ahead of the game with a selection of jewellery and watches that’s most suited for your store. by Maya Akbay

A LOT OF DIFFERENT FACTORS AND SOURCES contribute to what makes the best combination of jewellery and watches for your store. In many cases, it’s a mixture of input from buyers, vendors, staff and customers that influences the product range that will be sold and designed at any particular retailer.

Customer knows best For stores that focus on custom work and individual clients’ needs, the main influencer for the jewellery mix of the store is the customer. Based on the customer’s needs, it’s often a collaboration between the designers, vendors and buyers that helps determine the store’s product selection. “These are the vendors and buyers I’ve built a relationship with,” says designer and owner of Calgary Jewellery, Bernard Florence. “The selection is primarily chosen by myself and I do get the opinion of my colleagues at the store.” Florence adds that this industry requires that brands always be open to improvement and on the look out for what’s next for the store. “The jewellery we carry… all of us are involved in that process in terms of deciding what’s missing and what we should have. The staff input is vital,” says Michael DaCosta, designer and owner of Fortunes Fine Jewellery. What makes up a lot of the store mix at Fortunes Fine Jewellery is eternity bands, along with classic and staple jewellery pieces. For a lot of the high-end stores, bridal and engagement jewellery takes up the majority of the store mix because it has a high demand all throughout the year. For stores that offer custom-made designs, custom work brings in a lot of the sales. It’s important to be in line with the market and what the current trends are, as that will also be what a lot of the customers are looking for. “The market dictates what I bring in quite strongly,” says Florence. “Can I bring in a line that’s very aggressive or very expensive? Possibly, but you’ve got to look around; you don’t want to be a museum.”

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Clockwise from top: Calgary Jewellery interior display; ‘Designs by Bernard’ engagement ring by Bernard Florence (Calgary Jewellery); ‘Designs by Bernard’ earrings by Bernard Florence (Calgary Jewellery)

Kaufmann de Suisse Montreal showroom interior featuring crystal chandeliers, Turkish marble accents and fountain

A healthy balance For Kaufmann de Suisse Vice President Charles Kaufmann, a compromise between the brand’s image and vision alongside what the customer is looking for is essential. “We have our own ideas that we want to offer but we’ll listen to what the customers are asking for and then we’ll give it to them in our own design,” he says. “In the end, we’re making the stuff for the people. Hopefully we put our heads together and come up with something they love and something we want to make for them, too.” Sometimes it’s establishing a level of high-end quality first and foremost, rather than adapting to the customer at hand that determines the customer profile. “We stick to finer pieces, like eternity bands of high quality,” says DaCosta. “So they would be higher-end customers that appreciate fine quality. I’m not trying to compete with low-end merchandise mix.” According to Zales, owner of Peoples Jewellers of Canada, its North American locations sell a mix of diamond jewellery, gold, cultured pearls and a selection of wedding jewellery. The same goes for most retailers, who focus on bridal jewellery because it is the biggest seller on the market. While bridal is the largest part of many retailers’ business today, a lot of stores also choose to specialize in watches as well. Retailing a selection of high-end watches is still a niche market but it holds a lot of value.

Three-row Supernova diamond ring featuring 5.5ct fancy yellow radiant diamond (Kaufmann de Suisse)

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Feature

Ring with 19 square emerald-cut diamonds set in hand-made platinum, weighing 6.53cts (Fortunes Fine Jewellery, $34,000)

Signature earrings set with diamonds in 18k white gold (Fortunes Fine Jewellery $8,500)

What’s right for you?

Custom-designed engagement rings (Fortunes Fine Jewellery)

CANADIANJEWELLER.COM

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So what’s the best way to scout out the latest trends for jewellery and watches? Going to trade shows around the world is essential for getting the low-down on the hottest pieces on the market. “I’ve been going to Baselword for well over 22, 23 years. I’ll see many suppliers and companies I’ve dealt with for years and look to give our store a new look,” says Florence. “We try to give the store a unique look for the market. Even though people travel around the world more extensively today than in the past, with us bringing in these new beautiful lines in watch and jewellery world, it keeps us ahead of the game.” Along with Baselworld, Florence also makes it a point to go to the Las Vegas, New York, Tucson, and the Hong Kong shows. In the end, regardless of trade shows being a great platform to get caught up on what’s new in the jewellery and watch business, it’s a good idea to ensure that your merchandise is along the lines of your brand’s already existing image and vision. “You get to see what’s going on and what’s new... You have to take the time to figure out if it’s going to be good for the store,” says Kaufmann. “It all takes a bit of planning. Make sure it’s a good fit, otherwise it’s not going to help you.” CJ

Hand-made ring in platinum with princess-cut centre stone weighing 2.35cts (Fortunes Fine Jewellery, $43,000)

Diamond set earrings in white gold (Fortunes Fine Jewellery, $7,200)

Eternity multiple band in 18k white gold set with diamonds (Fortunes Fine Jewellery, $10,500)

Custom-designed, hand-made platinum ring set with rubelite and diamonds (Fortunes Fine Jewellery, $7,800) 18 white gold bracelet set with 70 princess cut diamonds (Fortunes Fine Jewellery, $32,000)

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C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M足足足

It’s about time

Retail Watch

Time is of the essence when it comes to closing a sale in the jewellery industry. by Todd Wasylyshyn

AS I STROLLED THE LOWER LEVEL OF THE SANDS EXPO CENTRE at JCK Las Vegas, an older gentleman approached me in the aisle, looked me in the eye with a big smile and asked if he could have a minute of my time. I couldn’t say “no,” and I ultimately did end up doing business with his packaging company. He was one of the best and longest serving sales rep I’ve ever had the pleasure of knowing (rest in peace, Howard Brody)! I recently reflected that not only was he friendly and approachable, he wasn’t asking to make a sales pitch at all. He didn’t ask me to look at product. He humbly asked for a small amount of my time. Hmmm. Tick-tock. There are only 1,440 minutes in a day. Time is precious. Time is money. Think of your calendar as a wallet, and the minutes are currency therein. Whenever you “spend time,” you reduce a finite resource. Some people seek to minimize time spent shopping for jewellery. For others, investing hours in their jewellery quest is a top priority. When a shopper comes into your store, they have tacitly committed to spending some of their valuable time with you. Don’t waste their time! A well prepared salesperson can do their job so well, that clients consider his or her visit as time well spent. Following is a strategy to expertly leverage time to maximize sales. As you read this article, you’re already building the first of your timesaving strategies. The hours you invest in educating yourself in the art of selling will increase the effectiveness of your time at work; and therefore each hour you work becomes more valuable to your business or your employer. Selling is not just about that winning smile and outgoing personality. Becoming a skilled salesperson requires ongoing education, refined communication skills, perpetual cultivation of new prospects and systematic procedures for executing sales and following up. If you take the time to earn your own “bachelor of jewellery sales,” through self-study, experience and critical

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feedback, you’ll outsell the lazy masses that show up for work and hope for sales to fall into their laps. Secondly, you’ve got to become cognizant of the element of time from your client’s perspective. If you are fully prepared with product knowledge and selling skills, you won’t miss a beat when time-limited clients come your way. Once you engage a customer, it’s fair to ask, “How’s your time today?” Those words will tell you if you need to be fast and efficient, or relaxed and thorough. When product knowledge is required, offer your shoppers the “coles notes” preview before getting into a “doctoral thesis.” Early in a diamond presentation, you could say, “Our diamonds are two to three steps higher in quality than those in chain stores. Would you like me to explain where that relates to the Four-Cs of diamond quality?” Use minimal amounts of product knowledge but always be ready and capable to give more as required. After all, we’re not selling a commodity; we’re helping our clients celebrate life’s most precious moments. Efficiency is important but not just to rush clients out the door. Relationships take time to foster. The more time you spend with someone, the more chance you have to discover common ground. When you discover that you share a passion for fly-fishing, theatre, fine cuisine, or stamp collecting, you’re on your way to making a friend. I don’t know about you, but I feel way more comfortable selling to friends (and their friends) than selling to complete strangers. If a client gives you 15 minutes of time and you stumble your way to closing a sale in that time, then good for you! You made a sale. If you expertly close that same sale in 10 minutes, you’ve got 5 minutes while wrapping their gift to bond with them and to plant seeds for the next jewellery purchase. Let’s up our game and protect our privilege of being in such a prestigious profession! It’s about time. CJ

Romance

Diamond Bridal Collection

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Keeping Time

How important are genuine parts? Luxury watch brand enthusiasts not only invest in the purchase of their timepieces but are also willing to invest in servicing their watch. by Kuldip Rupra WHEN A WATCH IS IN NEED OF REPAIR, owners have two options; the first is to have their watch restored using generic parts at a non-authorized repairs shop and the second is to seek out the service center for the desired brand and have the watch mended using genuine parts. In the past, customers only sought out their brand specific service center for warranty work. For all other repairs, they looked for a less costly service where the use of genuine parts was not guaranteed. Today, the Internet and various social media outlets provide customers with access to information not only on the brand but on the actual functions of a watch. Once a customer begins to truly understand how their watch movement operates, they begin to understand the importance of service. This is especially true for those who own timepieces with complex automatic movements. We are now seeing that watch owners are educating themselves on the watch repair process and what it takes to professionally service a watch using genuine parts. These customers are the ones who are concerned with the care and handling of their timepiece while it is away from them. Perhaps the most important reason customers invest in genuine parts and service is to maintain the value and prestige of their timepiece. Watch owners are looking to deem their watch 100 per cent authentic for appraisal and re-sale purposes. A luxury timepiece with all original parts can increase in value over time, especially if it is a limited edition or special series

model. Luxury brand items of any kind are the most sought after items on sites like eBay, Kijiji, etc. Honest sellers want to ensure that they are providing their customers with the exact item they have advertised. The only way to deem a timepiece authentic is to ensure it is serviced with genuine original parts only. This can be compared to purchasing a car with a full service record that has been serviced only by the dealer versus a model that has not been serviced by the dealer. The former will sell much faster and at a greater value than the latter. Educating customers on what makes a watch part authentic ensures that they maintain the value of their timepiece. Most people don’t know that components like crowns, buckles, and movements are stamped with the brand’s logo. This is one of the first things a service center looks for when authenticating a watch in order to rule out imitations. Similarly, an appraiser will look for these details as well. Genuine parts also tend to be of higher quality. CJ Genuine parts are developed to deliver many key benefits: • Designed to fit timepiece perfectly • Built and installed to manufacturer’s specifications • Quality tested for reliability and longevity • May provide additional warranty coverage

Kuldip Rupra is a third-generation watchmaker with more than 40 years of experience. One million-plus watches have been serviced at his company, TimeRevolution.com. Kuldip is a member of the Canadian Jewellers Association and the American Watchmakers – Clockmakers Institute.

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Canadian Jeweller Magazine is pleased to present the annual 2014 Awards of Excellence celebrating the very best in Canadian jewellery design, retailing, product development and watch brand innovation.

Why enter? • It’s a prestigious forum in which to be recognized by your peer •T remendous opportunities to promote your achievement in marketing initiatives •P R exposure – winners are announced to all media outlets via NewsWire • Review in Canadian Jeweller Magazine 2013 Jeff Nechka, Premier Gems Ltd.

• Award solidifies your position in the industry

Categories • • • • • • • • •

Independent Jewellery Retailer of the Year Multi-Store Retailer of the Year Product Line of the Year Watch Brand of the Year Best Diamond Design Best Canadian Diamond Design Best Pearl Design Best Platinum Design Best Coloured Gemstone Design

2013 Watch Brand of the Year: Citizen Watch Company Tara Bon, Eric Senftleben, and Doug Irwin

To enter, you will need to submit: • A completed nomination form found on canadianjeweller.com • A $50 entry fee per nomination •P hotographs of the product/product line being nominated •S amples of advertising campaigns, brochures, etc. marketing the product line • Testimonials from at least two Canadian retailers For full details, to register, and/or to find out how you can become a sponsor of the event, visit canadianjeweller.com or call us at 416-203-7900 x 6102.

Entry deadline is September 5th, 2014 at 5:00 p.m.

Eva LaRue

2013 Karin Bunzeit, Stittgen Fine Jewellery

2013 Multi-StoreJewellery Retailer of the Year: Bogart’s Jewellers, Richard Rooney 2013 Michael deCosta, Fortunes Fine Jewellers

From the Bench

It’s all in the tubes

The process of bending tubes is a major step in the construction of various jewellery pieces and here is how to do it right.

by Charles Lewton-Brain

JEWELLERS NEED TO BEND TUBING FOR VARIOUS CONSTRUCTIONS, parts of neckpieces, earrings, catches, cuff links and more. Normally, the metal thicknesses used in precious metals are quite thin because of the material cost, with 0.3 to 0.5mm thicknesses considered the norm. At this thickness, the tube is easy to kink or dent, thus ruining the bend and tight bends can be problematic. There are many approaches to bending tubes. Using your fingers in a gentle and slow manner, with frequent annealing, can work very well. I had a friend who made lovely cuff links in the form of spiral tubing, like a big spring, that was wound into the cuff. He used thin walled sterling tubing and bent it just with his fingers, taking his time. It was a perfect spiral, about 3/4 inches in diameter, and he set cabochon gems into the ends of the tube. A long piece of tubing (about 8 inches) provides so much leverage that when the ends of the tube are held and carefully bent, the center will often bend really well. On the downside, this method involves a lot of waste. Another way to do the bend is to temporarily solder rods or non-precious pieces of tube to the ends of a short piece of precious tube and then unsolder them. Even sliding long non-precious tubes over the ends of the short piece will give enough leverage to do the job. If you carefully heat a tube at the bend with a torch while bending it, it often curves quite uniformly. No glow should be visible from the metal. Bend it gently to avoid flattening the bend area. Leverage is important here as well. An alternative is to pour a low melting metal inside a tube before bending it and then remove the supporting interior by melting it out again. These metals can often even melt in hot water. Other materials such as waxes can be poured in the same fashion, but I find that they do not support the tube as

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well. For larger tubes, you can use red European pitch by rolling it with your hands in order to make ‘snakes’ that harden and can then be fed into the tube and warmed to fill it. In the same way, you can use freezing water in a corked tube to make supportive ice. Many jewellers also know an old-fashioned trick that involves placing a copper or aluminum wire snugly into a gold tube, then bending it and finally, etching it out with nitric acid and water for the copper and sodium hydroxide (lye) or hydrochloric acid for the aluminum. But there has been an instance of someone who tried this once and the process was so slow that he resorted to drilling holes in the tube to speed up the etching. For larger tubes (over 1/8 inches), jewellers can find small versions of plumbers’ tube bending tools that work just as well but can sometimes result in the flattening of the bend area. These kinds of tools can be found in automotive and hobby stores. Other ways of bending tubing include packing a tube with sand, corking the ends and then bending it, or instead, sliding a well-fitting steel spring onto the outside of the tube for support. This method is very effective, particularly if you can get a stiff steel spring that closely fits the tube. A traditional way of supporting a larger tube for bending from the inside is using sand and fitting a cork in each end. You may also opt to use fine powders, from sugar to plaster of Paris, to fill a tube for bending. In metals like pewter and platinum, you can slice out notches from the tube, close it up and weld it together to create curved tubing shapes. If I were to rank these tube-bending approaches by preference, the first would be using your fingers, followed by springs and finally, filling the tube with a stiff, fine powder. CJ

Feature

The trade show lowdown It’s trade show season and we want you to achieve the best results. Here’s how.

by Maya Akbay and Irina Lytchak

Before the show Having a successful trade show run is largely a result of how well you prepare beforehand. This includes training your staff, keeping the communication lines open between you and the company that will be prepping and setting up your booth, arranging solid schedules for you and your employees, and ensuring you have everything you need during the course of the show. Remember that this is a team effort and not a one-man job. Enlist a number of people to help you with the planning portion for the show so that all of your bases are covered. “Do everything you can before the show starts to be more prepared, because you won’t have time during the show,” says Mike Thimmesch, director of customer engagement at Skyline Exhibits.

Your staff Many of us forget just how important our trade show staff members can be. In many instances, they have the first contact with the visitor and their image can be a direct reflection of the brand. Having dedicated staff on hand at the show can ensure that your visitor will stay longer and may even buy the product. If there is one thing you can invest in prior to the show, it’s the training of your staff. It’s your responsibility to make sure that the people on your team are in tune with the image you want to portray and know your product like the back of their own hand.

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All photos courtesy of Skyline Exhibits

Your brand Each brand, like every jeweller, has a different vision they want to portray. Make sure to maintain excellent communication between you and the company that you have selected for its planning services. “Prior to showing anything and overwhelming our client, we try to learn what the client wants to achieve at the show,” says Raymond Li from HighFive Expo Solutions, an online merchant of portable trade show displays. “Once we know that, we can offer solutions to fit that need.” Despite the fact that all brands and companies have different ideas when it comes to their image, there are basic essentials like lighting and great signage that a booth display needs in order to attract people.

The visuals When it comes to the jewellery and watch industries, elements like lighting have a tremendous impact and are key to showing off your product at the trade show. “[There needs to be] lots of lighting to bring out the sparkles and elements of a jewellery store, but in a 10 by 10 space,” says Li. Aside from lighting, the other critical component of your booth is your signage and the one thing you have to remember when it comes to this is ‘professionalism.’ When selling your business, you want to give the buyer the idea that you are serious about your work and that’s why it’s important to have signs that reflect that. Make sure your signs are well designed, printed on quality stock, and include your brand and key information. According to Thimmesch, the elements that make your booth stand out from the rest include, “big, bold graphics with images that are interesting and relevant to the buyer, messages that quickly communicate your significant advantage to a prospect, and interesting exhibit architecture that impresses and invites a look.”

And the award goes to…

Technological reign In a world that is getting more and more technologically advanced by the second, having a simple display or table-top set up at a trade show may not be enough in some cases. That’s why trade show planners, exhibitors and attendees are seeing a dramatic increase in the use of multimedia and technology in order to ‘wow’ the customers. “Because of the Internet, attendees come to the show better informed. They want to get their hands on products, and meet the people behind the company, to make sure they truly want to buy from them,” says Thimmesch. “So exhibitors are changing their configuration to allow for more product demos, and especially more spaces for meetings.” In order to provide the visitors with an all-inclusive multimedia experience, exhibitors are gravitating toward the use of audio and visual elements, which are in some cases directly integrated into the booth or set up, and finding ways that will make the brand stick in the attendee’s mind long after they have walked away. If you want to add a bit of extra flavour to your booth, think of adding on elements like LED screens and tablet mounts.

Comfort is key Many of us have been to our fair share of trade shows over the years and we all know just how tiring a full day at an exhibit can get. That’s why one of the most important factors to consider in regards to the layout of your booth is seating. Many exhibitors like to entice their visitors with small gifts and extra incentives but who would have thought that offering your potential client a seat could be the thing that seals the deal? This is especially true for those attendees that are visiting after a full day of walking the show floor. Having to sit down allows them to relax and be more focused on what you have to offer. Making your visitor stand while they’re exhausted will definitely not help your cause so make them feel comfortable and relaxed. Ensure that you have their full attention!

Many trade shows often offer an award for the best booth design and while the criteria for this may vary depending on the show, the factors that make a booth get recognized remain the same. “The best booth is a combination of both best looking exhibit and products,” says Li. “Best booths are normally spread via word-of-mouth during and after the show.” Remember that social media also plays a huge part in spreading the impact of a booth’s design and presence in a trade show. “Once it goes viral, then you know that you have succeeded and made a great impact, therefore great sales,” says Li. In order to get recognized for having an excellent booth, make sure that your set up not only looks great but also reflects what makes your brand special. You can spread the word by taking advantage of your product’s social media outlets such as Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

Helpful Tips: • • • • • • •

Focus – Decide whether you’re trying to gain brand awareness and/or just selling a product. Mock trials – Plan for you and your team to run some mock trials before the show. Try using different strategies in order to see which ones will be most effective. Staff schedule – Assign your staff with detailed and precise tasks and schedule them in for specific time slots. Delegating the small things will help you tackle larger issues as they come up during the course of the show. Your schedule – Create a spreadsheet that will help you keep track of your schedule during the show. Remember that every minute at a show counts. If you are visiting other exhibitors, Thimmesch suggests having blocks for the different brands you will be seeing. “I’ll even colour code the times according to: In the Booth, At a Meeting, In a Session, At an Event, or Free Time, which means email and voicemail.” Tidiness – Ensure you have enough storage space to keep things organized and out of sight. Do a sweep of the booth every hour to make sure there’s no clutter of pens, papers, bottles, cups etc. that can affect the presentation of the booth. Business cards – Make sure to have business cards and price sheets to provide the visitors with. “Many times, I’ve seen the exhibitors forget the most basic things,” says Li. And remember… enjoy the experience! CJ

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JVC Report

Display case security It has long been said by security experts that you are only as secure as your weakest point. by John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Crime Prevention

YOU MAY HAVE HEAVY SAFES, expensive locks, and high security alarms and yet during the day, you display all your high-end merchandise in showcases that have no more than plate glass or at the best, tempered glass, protecting them. A showcase filled with loose diamonds, diamond solitaires or high-end watches can easily be valued at $250,00 to $500,000. If that showcase does not have any special security features, criminals can access the case in a matter of seconds and be out of the store in minutes with all of the merchandise. The most recent event happened in Saskatoon, when four men entered the store and within three minutes, had destroyed five showcases and removed over $500,000 in merchandise. Almost on a monthly basis, JVC receives reports of daytime robberies where criminals rush into stores with hammers and smash the showcases, leaving with expensive watches and diamonds within minutes. Some jewellers have tried reducing the amount of items lost by applying a security film to the tempered glass. During a robbery in Guelph, it took a masked bandit twelve hits with a small sledge hammer to make a hole in the display glass big enough to fit his hand. But upon reaching inside to pull out the merchandise, the man cut himself and left behind his DNA for the police. If the jeweller had applied a higher millimeter film, the bandit would not have gotten in at all. I have even seen some stores leave the merchandise in the display for the night and simply cover the case with a blanket. By simply watching the store closing procedures, the bandits are able to know what merchandise is in the case and the fact it is not removed for the night. Companies such as Titan Window Films in Vancouver distribute 3M film or Faubion Associates in Dallas provide showcases that cannot be penetrated with a hammer. In the past, some jewellers were concerned that the film would yellow over time. That is no longer a problem. To see the product for yourself, visit these companies’ web sites. Going back to my original thought on the weakest point, simply putting security film on the glass may not provide the best protection. In one instance,

a jeweller had placed security film on the showcase glass but the doors of the display were made out of particle board, which is easily pried off or split in two for access into the case. Another weak point can be the type of sealant that is used to join the glass top of the showcase to the front and side panels. In many cases, only a plain clear silicone is applied to connect the glass. Criminals with a box cutter can cut the silicone and while the staff are distracted, the bandits lift the glass and remove the merchandise. Today, retailers can find silicones that cannot be penetrated with a knife once they dried. These types of sealants are used in prisons around windows and toilets to prevent prisoners from cutting them and escaping. And then there are retailers that choose to equip their showcases with total security. This includes security film on the glass that even a full-sized sledgehammer cannot penetrate, showcase doors that cannot be pried open or smashed, and an option to lock up the showcases during the night by lowering them into steel cabinets with just a push of a button. This kind of security system gives the criminals the appearance that the merchandise has been removed from the outside. If they were to break in, it would take them too long to penetrate even one of the locked case. Do note that steel cabinets are not considered to be a safe and a jeweller should consult with their insurance company before leaving high-end product in them. Your insurance may require the more expensive pieces to be stored in a burglar safe. These types of security features do not cost as much as what your loss could amount to. When protected merchandise is on display during the day, it will still appeal to your customers while the bandits will choose to go for a much easier target. JVC provides this information as a service to its members. Please note that the product descriptions are provided by the firms themselves and that JVC does not endorse products, manufacturers or services, and assumes no liability for the use of the products or services appearing on this list. CJ

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August 10-11-12 2014 Metro Toronto Convention Centre

Attend & Win

7 Day Cruise - Paul Gauguin

Tahiti & Society Islands Register online www.cjexpos.com

August 15-16-17 2014 Shaw Conference Centre

Attend & Win

7 Day Cruise - Wind Star

Caribbean Windward Islands Register online www.cjexpos.com

Baselworld

Baselworld 2014: Pushing boundaries

Baselworld is known to be a jaw-dropping spectacle when it comes to the world's premier watch and jewellery designs and this year's show did not disappoint. by Irina Lytchak

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The theme of this year's exhibit may as well have been "pushing the boundaries" since so many of the brands went the extra mile to impress visitors with innovative technologies and unexpected designs. When it came to presentation, most booths were hard to miss, with their grandiose size, show-stopping displays and of course, the stunning jewellery and watch pieces themselves. When it came to timepieces, every leading name in the industry tried to top last year’s designs with innovative technology, new materials, and outof-this-world technology. One word that was frequently heard throughout the show was ‘silicium’ – a type of alloy that is used by brands like Frederique Constant and Ulysse Nardin in order to reduce friction and the amount of energy used within a watch movement. Another way to stand apart from the rest this year was to present showgoers with a completely new material, and we found many brands like Bulova, Chanel, and Omega putting out their own, patented materials and giving the timepieces an extra ‘wow’ factor. As for colour and style – rich, navy blues still ruled the show floor, with watch designs from Gc Watches, Guess and Victorinox boasting deep shades of indigo, azure and cobalt in their dials, accents or straps. Rose gold was also very dominant when it came to men’s watches, especially highlighted in several of Carl F. Bucherer’s designs. The metal showed no signs of disappearing even though many skeptics doubted its initial popularity a few years back. Let’s not forget Pantone’s colour predictions for the year and the fact that Radiant Orchid was very much a source of inspiration for many of the jewellery brands at this exhibit including Mimi Milano and Sutra. To celebrate its 110th anniversary, Oris unveiled a brand new in-house movement in the Calibre 110, a Swiss-made stunner of which only 220 pieces are available worldwide, while ultra luxurious watch brand Rolex showed off updated versions of its Cosmograph Daytona, Milgauss, and SkyDweller timepieces. To follow suit, Longines, Rado, Hamilton and Glycine also stayed true to their roots and traditions by bringing back the past in various designs and resurrecting retro advertising campaigns. And while Baselworld is a fantastic example of how much technology has progressed over the past decades when it comes to wrist wear, the show is also exemplary of just how much tradition continues to rule the industry. CJ

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1. Chanel J12 Collection watch in black high-tech ceramic 2. Chopard Happy Sport Medium Automatic Joaillerie Trio, set with rubies, sapphires and emeralds 3. Pasquale Bruni Bon Ton Collection ring 4. Zenith El Primero Synopsis watch, 40mm, with El Primero movement 5. Bulova watch from AccuSwiss collection 6. Chopard Opal earrings worn by Cate Blanchett at 2014 Oscars

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Baselworld

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7. Romain Jerome ‘Moon Orbiter Speed Metal’ in new black PVD finish 8. Caravelle New York watch in stainless steel with luminous hands, markers and smooth doublepress fold-over clasp 9. De Grisogono Allegra watch with Swiss Quartz movement, 80 light and dark pink spinels, custom-made leather cord band 10. Ulysse Nardin Classico Horse watch, limited to 88 pieces in 18k rose gold, with self-winding UN-815 movement 11. Graff Diamonds ‘Hallucination’ watch with exceptionally rare, multicoloured diamonds, over 110cts 12. Citizen Ladies’ Eco-Drive Sunrise EM0320-59D watch with gradient mother-of-pearl dial, seven diamond accents, and three floating diamonds 13. Fabergé ‘Rococo’ multi-coloured ring with large dusky pink and purple spinels, emeralds, amethysts and aquamarines 14. Swarovski Octea Classica Purple STS watch 15. Patek Philippe Calatrava Haute Joaillerie with 162 flawless baguette diamonds 16. Patek Philippe Twenty~4® Haute Joaillerie in 18k white gold, with 1937 Top Wesselton diamonds, blue sapphires

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Baselworld

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17.Bregeut ‘Secret de la Reine’ timepiece from ‘La Rose de la Reine’ Collection, in 18k white gold, with 116 diamonds 18. Bulgari Ammiraglio del Tempo (Admiral of Time), Westminster Chime minute repeater 19. Oris Calibre 110 and 110 Years Limited Edition watch 20. Mimi Milano rings with aquamarines, prehnites, amethysts and pink quartz 21. Gc Watches TechnoSport Collection watch in the model X51001G1S 22. Frederique Constant Classics Manufacture Worldtimer with FC-718 Manufacture caliber, 26 jewels and 42-hour power reserve

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How’s your business, are you considering a change?

Is this the

right time?

Saskatoon, SK – New York, NY - Charleston, SC

Is this the right time for you ? We build custom retail jewellery solutions. Let Silverman Chapman & Reese help you get better than par. Give us a call to discuss your options We will also be happy to see you at the upcoming jewellery shows, JCK Las Vegas and the Canadian Jewellery Expo in Edmonton. This is what one of our clients said about us:

For more than 20 years in Canada and 50 years in the US, Silverman’s Consultants have delivered sales strategy, direction, and solutions to jewellery stores of every size. We’ve built our reputation on successfully restructuring jewellery businesses, selling off inventory, and liquidating entire stores. Our professional consultants apply proven strategies designed specifically for the client and their unique business. Whether you’d like a transitional plan, retirement strategy, or a total liquidation, Silverman Chapman & Reese has the custom made solution to create your successful sale event.

“ I am pleased to take the opportunity to thank Silverman, Chapman & Reese Consulting for making our store closing sale a tremendous success. Their expertise in store events allowed us to achieve over one-hundred and fifty percent of our original objective” Wards Jewellery – Lethbridge Alberta

Time? RetirementRight Restructuring

Retirement

Silverman Chapman & Reese Consulting Saskatoon, SK, 1-888-955-1069 www. silvermanconsultants.com

Rightsizing Rightsizing

Right Time? Right Time? Restructuring

JCK Las Vegas

2014 preview

Bcouture

Feature

It’s that time of year again! Highlights JCK Las Vegas is here and we Canadian Jeweller Magazine online – Be sure to check in with us through couldn’t be more excited to be a Facebook and Twitter in order to get your latest JCK Las Vegas updates as we part of yet another run of this bring them to you straight from the show floor! Mobile – In order to make your show experience easier, try JCK Mobile. mega jewellery and watch show. JCK You will have access to your agenda, receive show updates and reminders, Taking place from May 30 to search the exhibitor list and more, all from your smartphone. June 2 at the Mandalay Bay JCK Rocks the Beach – This year’s exciting celebration will include a perforResort & Casino, JCK Las Vegas mance from Grammy-award winner Rob Thomas of Matchbox 20. Sponsored always delivers the best when it byBay.Effy, the event will be held on Sunday, June 1 at The Beach at Mandalay comes to jewellery design and watch innovation.

Top left: Bcouture Keepsakes pendant necklace, each Keepsake $88

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Exhibitors to watch… ELLE Jewelry

Stuller Bcouture

Trollbeads

Zorab

Ritani

Bcouture drop earrings in 14k rose gold with pear-shaped white topaz, $695; ELLE Jewelry sterling silver ‘Nefer’ ring, $199; Stuller 14k ‘Mystara’ diamond necklace, $2,235; Trollbeads Arabian Nights Collection charms; Ritani Masterwork cushion halo, triple diamond band engagement ring in 18k white gold, $6,450; Zorab Atelier de Creation Rubellite Lux ring with rubies, black and white diamonds

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Stephen Webster

Feature

Couture

Held every year at the beautiful Wynn Resort in Las Vegas, Couture Las Vegas is an exclusive destination for those seeking the opulent world of luxury jewellery and watches. The show runs from May 29 to June 2 and features a stunning display of more than 200 designers and brands from all around the globe.

Versace

Roberto Coin

Fabergé

Sutra Stephen Webster 'Superstone' collar set in sterling silver, white mother-of-pearl; Versace Day Glam collection 38mm watch in turquoise; Roberto Coin Horse Collection wrap around bracelet in white gold; Fabergé Charms collection bracelet with egg-shaped charms; Sutra opal earrings with diamonds and blue sapphires; Sutra pink opal earrings in 18k gold

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Glycine Ebel

Swiss Watch Running from May 30 to June 2, Swiss Watch is an appointment-only event that showcases a number of prestigious Swiss watch brands in a separate setting from the rest of the JCK Las Vegas experience. Held in luxurious suites at the Mandalay Bay, Four Seasons, and THEhotel, Swiss Watch promises to bring the utmost in luxury to its visitors.

Swatch

Carl F. Bucherer

Gucci

Longines

EBEL Onde 30mm with MOP dial, applied curved indexes, diamond crown, $2,450; Glycine 46mm Airman AIRFIGHTER with 3 time zones; Swatch Pastry Chefs Collection ‘Sprinkled’ watch; Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec watch; Gucci Horsebit Collection 28mm watch, mother-of-pearl dial, 50 diamonds; Longines 49.50mm Equestrian Lépine in rose gold, Calibre L506.2

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Pub Canadian Jeweller_HR.pdf

14-05-06

11:23 AM

Canadian Jeweller Magazine through the Ages 135th Year Retrospective

To mark our upcoming 135th anniversary, Canadian Jeweller Magazine is taking a look back at the remarkable changes in the magazine and the jewellery world in the past 135 years. In our last issue, we examined the 1970s and 1980s; here, we look at the 1990s and 2000s… by Irina Lytchak and Maya Akbay

1990s

THE

In history: A prominent influence in this decade was the grunge era, with an emphasis on minimalism as opposed to opulence; it was a precursor to the brief decline of fine jewellery. A trend in minimalistic and simple jewellery paved way for simple rather than statement pieces. Gemstones were also on the rise, as well as pearls, and stones in earth tones like orange and peach. Silver ear cuffs were part grunge and part glam. Mother of pearl bangles and cloisonné were also popular. The world of high fashion was also a heavy influence on the jewellery trends of this era. Brand name accessories and jewellery pieces with signature patterns were all the rage at the time. This trend continued on through the 2000s, like the two intertwined C’s from Chanel. In the watch world, Junghans launched the first radio-controlled watch in 1990, the MEGA 1. The watch’s quartz oscillator was set to the correct time by coded radio time signals broadcast by government-operated time stations; the signals were received by a radio receiver inside the watch. Jewellery watches, sport watches, upscale watches, two-tone watches, stainless steel watches, and watches with lighted dials remained popular throughout the decade.

In the magazine: During this decade, the magazine covers were colourful, stylized and feature beautiful cover models showing off the hottest jewellery pieces at that time. While previous issues from past decades only featured coloured covers and advertisements, the magazines of this decade were printed in colour from front to back. The magazine also began featuring sections that are found in Canadian Jeweller Magazine today, including ‘For the Record’ and a double-page spread for the ‘1993 Buyers Choice Awards’ geared toward jewellery designers. Above: Cover for Canadian Jeweller Magazine, November 1993

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Clockwise from top left: Bucherer Lépine pocket watch, hand wound with perpetual calendar, set in 18k yellow gold, circa 1998 (Carl F. Bucherer); Diamond and platinum necklace by Angela Cummings, circa 1992 (Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers, $16,000-20,000); Bucherer automatic men’s watch with perpetual calendar, moon phase display, set in 18k yellow gold, circa 1990s (Carl F. Bucherer); Cross pendant, circa 1990s (Swarovski); Christmas Special watch “Xmas By Xian Lax,” circa 1994 (Swatch)

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135th Year Retrospective

2000s

THE

In history: Coloured gemstones, designs inspired by nature, diamonds in virtually any form, yellow gold, white metals, princess-cut gemstones, and Tahitian pearls were among the most popular items to be worn during this decade. Coloured diamonds and pearls were high in demand, along with stainless steel and designer jewellery. After the minimalist jewellery trend of the 1990s, big jewellery came back into fashion and Hollywood was particularly inspired by big, statement-making pieces once again. Layering also became very popular for both the fashion and jewellery industries during the mid 2000s. Wearing multiple bangles on the wrist and stacking several rings on one finger became very trendy on the runways and in the streets. Many jewellery designers also became influenced by different ethnicities and tried to incorporate elements of African and Mediterranean cultures into their pieces. Earlier on in the decade, the use of ceramic in watches became very predominant in the industry, with select brands making use of this material in their high-end models and many others following suit shortly after. In regards to men’s watches, retro Patek Philippe, Casio G-Shock and Rolex also made their way back into fashion.

Above: Cover for Canadian Jeweller Magazine, February/March 2008

In the magazine: During the 2000s, Canadian Jeweller made a significant change in its cover concepts by featuring jewellers and jewellery retailers as opposed to product photographs and fashion models. This paved the way to building a very imperative relationship between the publication and the rest of the trade. Members of the Canadian jewellery industry were now given a voice by appearing on the cover and inside the magazine while others were able to connect with their fellow trade members by reading about them. The latter part of the decade also saw a slight increase in the magazine’s page size, giving it a more regal and striking look. We also saw a formation of a distinct logo comprised of a ‘C’ and a ‘J,’ which has slowly evolved into the prominent logo featured on the cover pages of the current Canadian Jeweller Magazine.

Left to right: Gem-Set Rose Brooch by Asprey (Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers, $8,000-10,000); Beluga Caviar watch, circa 2008 (Ebel)

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Clockwise from top left: Diamond and Gold Panther Pendant by Cartier, circa 2003 (Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers, $2,000-3,000); Avenue Squared watch, circa 2008 (Harry Winston); Gentlemen’s Stainless Steel ‘Oyster Perpetual DateJust II’ Wristwatch by Rolex (Dupuis Fine Jewellery Auctioneers, $3,200-3,600); Intervalle bangle, circa 2000s (Swarovski)

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For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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DIGITAL DEALS

Online shopping adds a new layer to retailing

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The hottest bridal trends for the season

EN FRANÇAIS

Joolz – Bar à Bijoux: Pour un menu des marques les plus demandées

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Index to Advertisers 24 Gold Group 2 Atlantic Engraving 13 Best Bargains 29 Beverly Hills Jewellers 41 Bullion Mart 27 Butterfly Gem 96-97 CBQ Expo Prestige 63 CJ awards of excellence 75 CJ Expo 82-83 CJ Expo 86-87 CJ Expo/ Lary Johnson 84 Chapman & Silverman 93 Dominion Diamond 8-9 GIA 3 J.A. New York/Emerald 79 Jewelers Mutual 25 Jimmy Crystal Canada 61 JVC – Jewellers Vigilance 67 Kim International 73 Lotus Jewellery 15 & 19 Mary Jewellery and Lapidary 17 Mirage Creations OBC Mirage Creations – Nova 39 Miyoshi Pearls 11 Paj Elle IBC Ready Mounts 57 Stuller 6-7 Time Revolution 76-77 Tresor Paris 4&5 UBM Asia Ltd. 37 Wengers 21

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Summer Lovin’

Style Council

FOR THIS SUMMER SEASON, think polka dots, bows and bright colours! Let the sunshine in and help your client perfectly pair their vibrant attire with key jewellery pieces. This is the ideal time to break away from the bleakness of the long winter months by opting for jewellery pieces that are vivacious, sleek, and have a hint of shine through accents of diamonds and gemstones. Wardrobe style can be highlighted with pops of colour through jewellery and accessory pieces, like a bright watch strap or a bold clutch purse. A pair of ankle strap heels is perfect for bringing a bit of glam to a day of work at the office or during downtime with friends. Adding a classic pair of sunglasses gives any look a finished touch of grace and sophistication. Don’t play it safe with black this season and summer’s fun side by being bold! CJ

1. 0’2nd floral print jacket, $450, exclusive to Holt Renfrew 2. Jonathan Simkhai leather shorts, $695, available at Holt Renfrew 3. Jimmy Crystal New York “Luxor” bangle, $135 4. Kate Spade New York 2 Park Avenue Beau bag, $498, available at Holt Renfrew 5. Stuller sterling silver genuine checkerboard smoky quartz necklace, $560; Stuller sterling silver genuine checkerboard clear quartz necklace, $561 6. Michael Kors black and white pump, $350, available at Holt Renfrew 7. Jimmy Crystal New York “Tolouse” sunglasses, $185

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9 11

9. Dior pointed pump with ankle strap, $1,095, available at Holt Renfrew 10. AQ/AQ orange dress, $215, available at Holt Renfrew 11. Citizen Ladies’ Eco-Drive Sunrise 30mm watch with gold-tone stainless steel case, mother-of-pearl dial and 3 diamonds 12. Holt Renfrew Private Label polka dot scarf, $75, available at Holt Renfrew 13. Tom Ford black cat-eye sunglasses, $450, available at Holt Renfrew 14. Jimmy Crystal New York “Ferngreen” ring, $75 15. ELLE Jewelry sterling silver rhodium plated ‘Calypso’ Collection two-tone Chinese amazonite earrings, $249 16. Marc by Marc Jacobs Classic Q Natasha bag, $398, available at Holt Renfrew

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Last Word

A ‘natural’ beauty by Maya Akbay

IVY TENDS TO HOLD A CERTAIN SENSE OF MYSTERY AND WHIMSY so it’s no wonder that Swiss fine jewellery house de GRISOGONO chose the enigmatic plant as the inspiration for this white gold, diamond and emerald-encrusted choker. A truly magnificent creation, this dazzling neckpiece is part of de GRISOGONO’s Melody of Colors Collection, decked out in 53cts of green emeralds and 62cts of white diamonds all set in precious white gold. It’s a poetic design that pays true homage to the power and beauty of nature. CJ (Price upon request)

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elle@paj.ca