Magic Haiti - 5th edition

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JANUARY 2012

Frankie Jean Baptiste

Tap Tap Painter Rob Padberg

The Story of a Dutch Father The Blue Gem of Haiti’s Northern Beach Coast

Club Indigo

Michel Chataigne

Haiti’s Style Tycoon FISHERMAN AT the Arcadin scenic Coast view (Côte from desSAUT Arcadins) d’eau



Editor’s Note Dear Readers,

Happy New Year! In September 2011, Magic Haiti was re-launched and since then we have whet your appetite by presenting Jacmel, Haiti’s art capital also known as the city of lights. You have discovered boutique hotels, the recreational town of the Côte des Arcadins and you have learned that the three Haitian cultural sites/artifacts were selected by World Monuments Fund (WMF): the city of Jacmel’s Historical Centre, Port-au-Prince’s Gingerbread House Collection and the Sans-Souci Palace in Milot. We have shared our culture through the arts and as a result you met several artisans. We have shared our culture through our cuisine and as a result you have some recipes. We have shared our culture by introducing you to various post-cards in motion from the mountainside to waterfalls, to Fort Drouet. We have shared our culture by letting you know about our night life. You know, that though we are in the reconstruction process, Haiti is a thriving country with modern hotels outfitted with conference centers and lush family friendly resort hotels. A country thriving, a country home to diverse restaurants ranging from Middle Eastern to French, to Thai, to Fusion, and of course the very best, Haitian cuisine. The journey has just begun. I am excited, I too am learning and discovering. I am thrilled to travel this path with you in 2012. The goal of the magazine is to promote local tourism by encouraging foreign professionals residing in Haïti for whatever length of time, Haitians living in the Diaspora visiting family and friends, as well as locals, to explore and discover the depth and breadth of Haïti. Our country is rich in culture and more specifically in the arts. Admittedly, Haïti may not be the island that comes to mind when planning a magical Caribbean getaway for rest and relaxation or just a simple vacation, but reconsider and you will be pleasantly surprised. I wish you all a healthy New Year full of love, filled with success, and most of all filled with opportunities to learn about our captivating island. I encourage you to simply Discover Haïti and experience the Magic!

Roxane Kerby


MAGIC HAITI

JANUARY 2011

HeartBeat

9 20 30 27 36 40 22

Change Through Dance

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5 6 12 17 32 18 24

Hot Dates Jazz it up! Etonnants Voyageurs Literature and Film Brought to Life

Memorable Events A Night to Celebrate Life! Caribbean Sextet The Revival

Postcard in Motion

Artmosphere Frankie Jean Baptiste: Tap Tap Painter Diva Collections, Seamstress turned Bag Designer Michel Chataigne: Haiti’s Style Tycoon

Spotlight Marie Beliard A Patisserie with Passion

Why Haiti ? The Story of a Dutch Father Robin Padberg, Growing up Dutch in the Caribbean

Lamanjay Océane: Seafood Delight

Executive Editor Roxane Kerby 509 3492 2289 roxanekerby@magichaiti.com Copy Editors Nastasia Boulos Kristina Delatour Contributors Maureen Boyer Farah Doura Rachele Viard Kassandra Elizée Taina Mayard Katherine Behrmann Joanne Cantave Gousse Lisa Jutsum Graphic Designers Rody Victor Clarens Courtois Senior Photographer Frederick Alexis Photographer Homère Cardichon Printed by L’ Imprimeur SA Publisher Le Nouvelliste Advertising

+509 2816-0224 / 2941-4646 publicite@lenouvelliste.com

Cover by Frederick Alexis

Saut d’Eau

Escapade Prince Hotel: A home away from home! Club Indigo : The Blue Gem of Haiti’s Northern Beach Coast

facebook.com/magichaiti

www.magichaiti.com


Happy New Year and Welcome to Haiti

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ear readers please allow me on behalf of my ministry to wish you a very Happy New Year. I would also like to take this opportunity to share the Ministry of Tourism’s goals and objectives for the upcoming year as you too can play a role. The revitalization of the tourism industry is key and as such the Ministry of Tourism’s mission to reinvigorate the image of our Pearl of the Antilles must begin at home and with our brothers and sisters in the Diaspora. This mission is thus the promotion of the country, by speaking of its culture, art, beaches, heritage, and its people. Magic Haiti enables Haitians at home and abroad to discover the infrastructures, places, artists and artisans that abound on our beautiful island that has so much to offer. Local and foreign investors who have the motivation and willingness to share their knowledge and experiences and also attract other partners for the development of the new Haiti are also implicated. The objectives of the Ministry of Tourism are well elaborated and comprise Promotion, Training and Regulation. The short-term objectives for 2012 will be to develop a database of existing hotels and attractions. We will provide support to hotels and assist them in their efforts to meet the needs and expectations of local and Diaspora tourists. Ensuring that existing hotels and attractions become profitable is a prime asset in their revitalization. FAM Trips will also be organized this January and February. Travel agents from Canada and the United States will visit these existing sites and will share their expectations as well as those of their clients to improve what needs to be and how best to meet the demand. Visits of several investors very interested and willing to put into action the development of seaside resorts will focus in two main areas, the North, speaking of Cap Haitian and the

surrounding area and the South East coast from Jacmel to Port Salut and to the Marie Jeanne Caves. We are pleased to inform you that the major international hotel chains will be developed beginning in 2012 and spanning through 2013 including the Marriott Hotel, Best Western and Oasis. Training of a qualified staff is equally important and will complement the very “fiber” that is the warm reception that exists in every Haitian. Initially, guidance will be provided by the School of Professional Tourism Careers in Port-au-Prince which will reopen its doors mid-January, and the three other schools which will open in the priority areas denoted in the Five-Year Plan. A new curriculum will be developed with the assistance of the Institut Touristique et Hôtelier du Québec. I invite you to be pay special attention to our website (haititourisme@gouv.ht), our Facebook page (Ministère du Tourisme Haïti) and our Twitter account. My team and I put a major emphasis on communication in order to keep you aware of progress made and to also enable you to follow my travels, meetings and allow you to comment and let me know your thoughts, expectations and suggestions. I am convinced that this change must be effectuated in partnership and always mindful of our motto “L’union Fait la Force” or Unity is Strength. We Haitians here and abroad, our friends in the international community who support us and give importance to this sector, I thank you in advance for your participation in the development of the country beginning with its revaluation while singing “Haïti Chérie, pi Bel Peyi pase ou nan pwen.” Enjoy your stay in our magical island. Mrs. Stephanie Balmir Villedrouin Minister of Tourism


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! p u t i z z a J

Hot Dates

By Farah Doura | Photos by Roberto Stephenson and Claude Carré

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rom January 21-28, 2012, the Fondation Haiti Jazz will host the 6th annual Festival International de Jazz de Port-auPrince. The idea was born a few years ago when a group of ambassadors, so impressed after hearing drummer Joel Widmaier play, suggested starting a small music project. That gave birth to the festival, which today presents an eclectic mix of jazz talents from around the world. “The purpose of the festival is to create an international music scene in Haiti,” says Widmaier, now President of the Haiti Jazz Foundation. “Every country plays jazz, it’s an international and universal music genre. The festival was created as a platform dedicated to showcasing Haitian musicians that play jazz locally and in the Diaspora.” Held in the Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre, the Festival will feature ten international bands from countries such as

Canada, Brazil, Switzerland, Chile, the United Sates, and Germany. A special highlight this year is the Jacques SchwarzBart’s Jazz Racine, a very special group from France who plays a fusion of contemporary jazz and Haitian roots music. “There is a new generation of Haitian musicians full of talent that play jazz with the greats of overseas. It’s an opportunity to bring these musicians to both the Haitian and international public. You could call jazz “elite” music, although not necessarily, which musicians appreciate among themselves. Through the Festival foreigners and Haitians both locally and in the Diaspora are afforded an opportunity to play jazz together,” states Widmaier. Moreover, “it also allows musicians to measure themselves to others locally and at the international level”, adds Milena Sander, Foundation Manager. The 2012 festival will feature many guest artists including the

vocal prowess of gospel singer Félina Backer, the inventive sound of tenor saxophonist Jed Levy (known for his broad-shouldered tone and confident delivery) and Aguamala’s particular mix of jazz, funk and rock. Recognizing the importance of hands on training and to ensure that the festival has a lasting impact, the performers will conduct workshops for candidates interested in pursuing musical careers as well as young talented musicians. In recent years, for example, Mario Canonge, a pianist from Martinique, conducted a beguine jazz workshop that left everyone asking for an encore. Each year, Kreyòl Jazz is prominently featured during the festival. “It comes from Afro Jazz. Jazz is already Afro to begin with, and when it traveled to Europe, it changed form,” says Widmaier. “Every country has its form and color of jazz, that’s why it’s universal. Haiti, as well, will craft its color, its music, its Jazz Kreyòl. Whether it be in rhythms or melodies, we can take the classic themes of jazz and put them at folkloric rhythm. Or do the op-

posite. We can do both. That is the diversity of Kreyòl Jazz.” Seems like music is coming full circle. Haiti played an important role in the history and development of “black rhythm.” That it is coming back home through the movement of contemporary Jazz as played by international artists, in the case of a band like Jacques Schwarz-Bart, is a wonderful tribute. Catching some tunes in the open air of the historical Parc de la Canne à Sucre, with ruins and relics of the sugar cane mill as backdrop, offers a great experience to Jazz lovers. However, the fun doesn’t stop when the speakers go silent and the lights dim. At the end of the night, aficionados can attend the after-hour sessions at various spots, notably Quartier Latin restaurant. For more information on the event, please visit www.papjazzhaiti.com

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Hot Dates

Etonnants

Voyageurs Literature and Film Brought to Life By Rachele Viard | Photos by Gaël Le Ny

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n exciting event worth marking your calendar will take place from February 1-4, 2012, it is Etonnant Voyageurs (Amazing Travelers). The third edition of International Book and Film Festival Haiti will feature more than 50 international and local authors and filmmakers. Etonnant Voyageurs is a unique event that offers authors and filmmakers the opportunity to share their lives passion. It

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also serves as a platform to introduce the international authors and filmmakers to the Haitian community. In addition it affords the foreigners an opportunity to discover Haiti and local students have a rare opportunity to meet renowned writers and participate in debates. This international book and film festival originated in Saint- Malo, a city located in the south of France. Several Haitian authors traveled to

France and had the chance to experience this major global literary event. Upon their return, they felt that it was important to duplicate the festival here in Haiti. They founded the association “Etonnant Voyageurs Haiti” and in 2007 launched the first festival in Haiti which received raved reviews. The anticipated second edition of Etonnant Voyageurs was scheduled for January 2010. Many of the international authors that were

scheduled to participate in the event were in town when the earthquake occurred and instead of taking part in the originally planned activities, many of them wrote about the impact of the quake and its aftermath. The organizers are passionate about celebrating the arts, and sharing Haitian culture through film and literature. This edition of will pay tribute to Georges Castera, one of Haiti’s most prolific po-


ets. Prominent authors such as Jean-Marie Blas de Roblés, Louis Philippe, Mathias Enard, Frankétienne, will be part of this year’s festival. Lectures, readings, round tables, debates and screenings will take place in schools, cafés, French Alliances and other venues in nine cities throughout the country including Port-auPrince, Cayes, Port de Paix, Jacmel, Cap Haitian, and Hinche just to name a few. Many of these activities will be broadcast live by television and radio. More than 3,000 students will participate and have the opportunity to have their voices heard. Etonnant Voyageurs offers an exciting chance to experience literature and different

cultures on a whole new level. It is an enriching cultural experience that should not be missed. I, avid reader that I am, am truly excited to experience my first Etonnant Voyageurs. Events like these bring literature alive even for those

who are not big on reading. The festival will give the authors and literary buffs alike an opportunity to meet and interact. For literary enthusiasts or for those looking for an enlightening yet fun activity to give your stay in Haiti

that added bonus Etonnant Voyageurs is just the ticket. To obtain detailed information please visit www.etonnants-voyageurs.com, www.fokal.org , or www.ambafrance-ht.org.

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Artmosphere

Frankie

Jean Baptiste

Tap Tap Painter By Kassandra ElizĂŠe | Photos by Frederick Alexis

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F

rankie’s father had always expected his son to follow in his footsteps and become a mechanic. But after enrolling in mechanic school, Frankie met a tap tap (public transportation bus) painter - one of those guys who decorates Haiti’s most traditional public transporation jitney - who showed him “the art of tap tap painting.” Frankie fell in love and well, the rest is history. The artful painting of buses is typical in Haiti. Thousands of transporation vehicles within cities and between departments roam the streets every day exhibiting some of the most artistic paintings in the country. The images, created by Haiti’s finest artisans, often express scenes of everyday life, tropical and natural scenes, even caricatures of Saints, famous artists and athletes from around the world. Oftentimes, they also depict the political and/or social mood of the country. From the baroque movement and expressionism to realism and naturalism, all styles of art are practiced when it comes to tap tap painting. There are no rules. Some choose to portray Voudou gods, others prefer randomly scattering geometric designs across the bus’ surface. Tap tap painting is a flourishing form of art characterized by its vibrant colors and, more frequently, by biblical messages of hope written in Creole or French such as “God will not forsake us.” Haitian tradition of displaying painstaking artistry on commuter buses is a lucrative field of work, according to Frankie. “Oh yeah, I definitely am able to live off of my talent and take care of my family,” he says with a sense of pride. Frankie works with all

types of paint: acrylic, oil and enamel. When working on a bus, he makes sure to paint each and every corner, including all the wooden window frames, and ends by signing with his trademark signature. Like most artists, the 33 -year old has a unique look that falls in tune with his unique talent. His half braided hair and beard, shaved with swirling designs in it, adds to his naturally squinty eyes which give him a serious but mischievious look. He has been painting public buses for 13 years but has been an artist since the age of thirteen. He dropped out of school to devote his life to tap tap painting because he likes plastic arts, he says, a technique characterized by the use of a three dimensional surface to create a piece of art. His calm, almost soothing hand movements that are as artistic as the finished product intrigues his oldest daughter. “She is already learning from me,” he says proudly, while focusing on the last details of the Jesus he is painting. Stepping back and looking at the almost completed work of art, one can’t help but be amazed at the perfect sandy beach and palm trees that Frankie has just painted on the back of a bus. Frankie says his inspiration comes from within himself when he is at work, although there are times when the client has a specific image he wants on his bus which the artist then simply recreates flawlessly. Frankie studied for a while at the École Nationale des Arts (ENARTS, the National School of Arts), but didn’t complete the program because he was too eager to move forward with his painting. He went from one garage to another, painting bus af-

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ter bus until he became good enough, and widely-known enough, to make a name for himself. A native of Carrefour, a large residential commune located in the Port-au-Prince metropolitain area, Frankie tries to stay abreast of happenings in the world of art in both his hometown (from which many artists and artisans have emerged) and across the country. In the past, he’s participated in art fairs where artisans were afforded a platform to expose some of their masterpieces on vehicles and mingle with other artisans. 10 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

Frankie is also a proud member of L’Union Nationale des Artisans de Tap-Tap Haitiens (UNATH, the National Union of Tap Tap Artisans), which he says set up standards for Tap Tap painting. “With the Union we’re not alone, we have sort of a regulating body to protect our rights,” Frankie explains. Though his father was initially perplexed about his son’s choice as a career, today he is happy and proud to see him doing so well, Frankie says with a smile. He hopes he can impart his talent on his children so that one of them will eventually follow in his footsteps.


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Memorable Events

A Night to Celebrate Life! By Katherine Behrmann | Photos by GSCC Member “To live or not to live…” A simple quote we may all be familiar with, but something which too many Haitians today are facing. In a country where optimism has become too scarce to be seen or heard, there are those who have chosen not to give up! They have chosen, rather, to continue to fuel that urge, that longing, that feeling so needed by us all: Hope! Hope for a better tomorrow for our children… 12 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

Hope for a cure to Cancer… But most of all, Hope for Life! On Saturday Nov. 21st, the GSCC (Groupe de Support Contre le Cancer), a non- profit Haitian organization geared at providing support to Cancer patients, lifted the bar once again! Seeking to raise additional funds to provide medication, radiation, chemo and other types of Cancer treatment support to underprivileged patients, GSCC hosted a successful Gala at Tara’s La Sapiniere.

“The role of the GSCC is to offer to those battling Cancer, a place where they can find refuge, information, and help with treatment. One our biggest roles is to help those with Cancer understand it better, know that there are ways to fight it, and to deal with the different stages,” explains Mrs. Marie Louise Baker, President of the GSCC. The Gala was a simple yet elegant affair. People dressed in beautiful gowns and tuxedos graced the


grounds of La Sapiniere. Lavish lavender and pink roses served as a reminder of the cause at hand while setting the mood for an exquisite evening. As guests arrived they were greeted by a young group of student volunteers from Union School, whose presence reminded us all how ageless Cancer can be. On two tables near the Gala doors, guests intimately lit candles in memory of lost loved ones. “But make no mistake, this was is in no way, a time of sadness. In no way, a time of mourning, but rather a time to celebrate life” said Baker, a cancer survivor herself. “We are here as well to celebrate those who can and are

beating and living with Cancer today.” Haitian talents graced the stage of Tara’s for an amazing show. Danaë Brandt, a young blooming Jazz soloist, started the show, followed by FrankEtienne and Jean Coulanges. Emeline Michel and Beethova Oba then delighted the crowd with their all-time hits. In addition, dancers from the Ballet Folklorique de Nicole Numarque performed dazziling numbers. As guests sang and danced to the entertaining sounds, the cry for hope and life could be deeply felt. For a moment, man and woman, husband and wife, cancer stricken or cancer free… all were indeed brought together to celebrate Life. JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 13


HeartBeat

Change Through Dance By Nastasia Boulos | Photos by Homère Cardichon

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n February 17th 1807, Henri Christophe was elected President of the State of Haiti. A key leader in the Haitian Revolution, he is credited for winning independence from France in 1804 and building the Citadelle Laferiere, the largest fortress in the Americas and an icon in Haiti. But in June of 2012, it is the dance stage that Henri Christophe will be taking. Indeed, Regine Montrosier Trouillot, who owns and directs one of the most prominent dance schools in the country, will be recreating the story of this famous Haitian icon in a ballet recital. “I chose to present Henri Christophe this year because, now more than ever, we as a people need to look up and remember the heroes of our history. Christophe was a visionary who saw everything on a big scope for Haiti and the Haitian people. He believed that the abilities of

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his people were equal to that of any other nation. He left us the magnificent Citadelle Lafèrrière in Cap Haitien, which is a reflection of his grandiose vision. I feel that it is imperative, in the reconstructive juncture that Haiti is in today, that we take example on the Giant that was Henri Christophe,” says Trouillot, who now runs the school with her daughter, Nathalie Dalzon. Using dance as a way to project a positive image of Haiti and bring about change has been a lifelong goal for the passionate dancer. ‘’I want to help Haiti go forward in dancing,’’ she tells me. “Dance can be a medium of reconstruction by bringing an incomparable love for discipline, beauty and most of all to oneself. This love can unite each of us in Haiti or anywhere else in the world.” Trouillot was twelve years old when she left her native Haiti to study with the New York City Ballet, one of the foremost dance companies in the world. For years, she trained with George Ballanchine, a developer of ballet in the United States and co-founder the New York City Ballet, who had offered her a scholarship to the school. The only two who spoke French in the institution, Trouillot says she developed a strong relationship with her trainer, who had clear and strict ideas about

technique and pushed her as far as she could go. “I learned what it means to devote your life to ballet. I learned of the strength and determination it takes. It is not an easy life,” she says. “But I couldn’t imagine my life without dance.” Indeed, though a thyroid problem forced her to stop studying dance by the end of her teens, Trouillot did not give up on the art. After spending a few years working as a secretary in New York, she quit her job and opened her own dance school in the city. “Even my boss at the time was saying to

me ‘Regine, what are you doing? You need to be dancing.” In 1978, Trouillot came to Haiti to teach dance for a summer. In the end she eventually opened the RMT Dance Academy, which has now been training dozens of young dancers for over twenty years. “I thought since I had the chance to learn from such great teachers, to acquire such knowledge, to learn to know myself, I should give that opportunity to others” she says. The high energy yet graceful dancer says she receives letters from former students thanking her for the impact that ballet has had in their lives. “Ballet changes a person. It forces you to dig deeper within, to your soul. To be able to reach within you and seek that higher level. It’s about seeking perfection. It doesn’t mean you reach it, but it’s about consistently pushing yourself to achieve perfection. Once this becomes a habit in ballet, it can become a habit in other aspects of your life.” In October 2011, Trouillot opened a dance school in Cap Haitien, in collaboration with Mrs. Anne-Lise Torres. The Academie de Danse Marie-Louise Coidavid (named after King Henri Christophe’s wife) has approximately 50 enrolled students. Seven of these

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students are on scholarship. Young men trained by Trouillot herself teach the classes. One of her proudest moment at RMT was in 2006 following the company’s performance of Anacaona at the Jackie Gleason Theater in Miami Beach,

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Florida. Mayor Carlos Alvarez proclaimed May 27th as the official Anacaona Day. “Mayor Alvarez also presented RMT with the key of the city, which was a tremendous honor for me and my students.” Anacaona, a leader of the Tainos inhabitants on the

island, is, like Henri Christophe, a symbol of pride in Haitian history. “Haiti has one of the most beautiful cultures of this planet. Our folklore is one of the richest in the world and we must never forget our roots,” she states. “All Haitians are naturally gifted artists. I truly believe that there is an artist in each and every one of us. We are capable of excelling at any artistic discipline such as dance, music or art. I am sure that, with the proper guidance, Haiti can find its place in the international dance world.” I was five years old and terrified when I first took part in “le spectacle de Regine”, the recital put on by RMT Dance Academy every year. Years later, as we sit at the front desk of the prominent institution, where I’ve spent a large part of my childhood, I feel

like I am meeting a new person. “I never let my students know much about me because I want them to go through the process of discovering themselves, through dance,” Regine tells me. “Anyone can dance. But not everyone can dance professionally” she adds. To dance professionally you need the body, the talent, and the passion and love for it.” When did you start dancing? I ask. She pauses a while, thinking, before answering: “I couldn’t tell you, sometimes I think I was born a dancer.” And though ballet holds a special place in her heart (it is at the base of any dance, she informs me), second on her list is Haitian Kompa. Why? “Because,” she says matter-of-factly and with a smile on her face, “I am Haitian, after all.”


Memorable Events

Caribbean Sextet

The Revival

By Roxane Kerby | Photo by Homère Cardichon

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awaited the Caribbean Sextet bal with bated breath. And it turned out to be the bal of the year in every way possible. Thus began the holiday season last year. In December Haiti is abuzz, if not careful you could be partying nightly. And what’s more, it usually is very hard to select which events you will attend and those that you will have to forego. Needless to say that the Caribbean Sextet bal was not one of those. The musicians were spectacular and Toto Laraque still remarkable after all these years. His voice and his sense of humor still on point. One would never have guessed that the group was defunct. They played just as they did in L’Auberge in Kenscoff back in the 80’s, however to a more mature crowd that truly ap-

preciated their music. A crowd that sang every word of every song, a crowd that danced every song, a crowd that comprehended the magic of the evening. Magical it was: Tara’s was transformed, beautifully clad men and women filled the venue in anticipation of a reminiscent evening. Caribbean Sextet’s timeless konpa kicked off the holiday season with a bang. People swayed, necks craned to view the stage, every chord struck by the band was met with a boisterous reaction. As the band played familiar tunes, the more they played, the more I noticed that a younger group was waiting in anticipation for the one song that they knew “Chatte Fifi.” Caribbean Sextet really kept the

crowd waiting, and waiting to the very last minute, and those still in the venue past 3:00 am on a beautiful early Sunday morning had the opportunity to enjoy hearing and dancing to this famed tune. The organizers planned a wonderful evening, a long desired event which surpassed everyone’s anticipation. Kudos to Gilles Malval and Reginald Policard, what will they do next. I trust and hope that they are diligently planning next year’s holiday event. I trust and hope that they find a way to recapture the magic that we felt on December 3, 2011. Bring back Caribbean Sextet, please and allow us once again to recapture the magic. That evening was an escape like no other escape. We all celebrated New Year’s

eve on this beautiful and memorable Saturday night. And we all had an opportunity to hear and dance to so many other wonderful bands and singers this past December, international acts such as Corneille of Rwanda, award winning superstar NeYo and Fat Joe of the States, and of course our beloved konpa bands Carimi, T-Vice, Nu Look, and Kreyol La, just to name a few. In addition, there were shows with international comedians, shows geared for teenagers with DJs such as Lavish. There was something to do almost everyday. Fun to be had by young and old. If you have yet to experience the Holiday Season in Haiti, well plan your 2012 vacation now, bring your dancing shoes, and experience the magic. JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 17


Escapade

Prince Hotel A home away from home! By Joanne Cantave Gousse | Photos by Homère Cardichon

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ocated in a cozy residential neighborhood in the hills of Pacot, Prince Hotel is a family owned business established in 1974. Like being spoiled at your grandparents’ house all summer with no rules or restrictions, the owners are dedicated to making their guests feel comfortable with special personalized service and a warm welcome each visit. Staircases take you up to a breezy porch of what feels like an old but comfortable family home. Along one wall of the cozy lobby, a mural specially created by the

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famous painter Bernard Séjourné captures your attention. The painting was unfortunately never finished or signed, but those who know and appreciate the artist’s work immediately recognize it. It is part of the hotel’s proud patrimony, as are many paintings of late artist Nanotte Chancy (mother of Manager Maryse Chancy). The building’s wooden floors and staircases of mahogany and cedar give the hotel a rustic and unique design. Many beautiful wooden structures and furniture from our very own Marche en Fer (Iron Market) can

be admired. The hotel was expanded in the 1980s to accommodate the growing number of guests and now offers 20 standard rooms and 5 suites. Recently, the rooms have been renovated and offer a Caribbean balance of country and modern, with wooden furniture, colorful works of art and beautiful ceramic tiles. The rooms are all air-conditioned with hot showers. WiFi is available, as are flat screen televisions with French, Spanish and American channels and telephones. In the back of the hotel, three


luxurious suites offer a large and sunny high terrace with a breathtaking view of the bay of Port-au-Prince. As you can imagine these suites are the most sought after and some guests return to the hotel just to take in the beauty. In addition, the hotel offers 24-hour laundry service and features an air-conditioned conference room that can accommodate up to 20 people. The room is equipped with a screen and a projector that can be hooked to a laptop, and can be rented with the option of a full buffet and coffee breaks. In the garden on the side of the hotel, you can choose to eat at the open-air restaurant which looks like a “French café” with its round tables and assorted chairs all in beautifully crafted rough iron, or you can head to the covered porch or the solarium. The bar is the focal point of the garden and offers delicious appetizers and local and international drinks. The “a la carte” menu includes vegetarian options (these dishes need to be ordered in advance). Also available are griyo and bananes, house specialty burgers, and even turkey burgers. Depending on the time of the year you may find several Haitian delicacies such as avocados, mangos, tangerines, breadfruit, acerola cherries, passion fruit, sour sop or papaya juices. Djon djon (a tasty black mushroom used in rice and several meat dishes), sorghum and cornmeal are included in the menu. Salads and fruit platters are also available. Your stay would not be complete without spending some time by, or in, the pool. Located right above the restaurant, it has a garden and a terrace of its own. There are several lounge chairs where you can soak up our warm Caribbean sun or rest in the shade of an almond tree.

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Artmosphere

Diva Collections

Seamstress turned Bag Designer By Maureen Boyer | Photos by Frederick Alexis

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ith a line of bags named Diva Collections, one would expect an extremely flamboyant designer. But Nerlande Augustin, a soft spoken, modest and down to earth young woman, is far from that. Indeed, her only wild side seems to be her imagi-

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nation, and that is reflected in the bags she designs Living in the heart of Port-auPrince, Augustin started sewing approximately ten years ago due to her mother’s influence. “My mother always sewed our dresses and I loved to watch her create these outfits. Once she began sewing the garment, I always


wondered and tried to imagine what the end product would be like” she says. Wanting to improve her skills, she enrolled and studied sewing at several local establishments for more than six years. “I always wanted to make people feel good about themselves by dressing them. That is why I concentrated my studies on fashion design for both men and women” she says. In 2004 she began working professionally as a dressmaker and shortly thereafter she was hand painting some of her clothing. About a year ago Augustin decided to start designing bags. “One day I started drawing and what I drew was a bag, so I decided to start creating different models” states Augustin. Once she started making them, she sold them in the Dominican Republic and to friends who lived and traveled abroad. After a while, her popularity grew locally and she became confident enough to start displaying her pieces in different art fairs around the country. Although sewing is still very much a part of her life, she now focuses her time on her booming bag line. When asked why the name Diva Collections? She replies with modesty (but with a smile on her face) “because a friend of mine mentioned that anyone carrying one of my bags would look like a diva.” Augustin is very meticulous when designing and creating each single bag. She draws inspiration from everything surrounding her but mostly from her own imagination. Her unique and inventive designs make her bags stand out. She has a knack for putting colors together to create abstract designs. For example, a tan colored

bag with a yellow and green hat resting on a branch beaded on the front. The young designer uses furniture, jeans and jute fabrics for the bags and puts in sponge as lining for support. Then she either sews or glues the beading on. At times she even uses paint to create the decorative front pattern. Although Nerlande is the designer, she employs eight people in her workshop; four to six of those workers focus mainly on the beading and two take care of the assembly. “My team is very efficient. The front design and the beading take the most time to make. Once that is completed, we can make five to ten dozen bags in about a month,” she explains. Augustin is extremely ambitious and wants success not only for Diva Collections but for the Haitian art world as a whole. “I would like for all Haitians to focus on national production, that they start consuming more local products. This way we would be able to

establish ourselves in the international market” she states with determination in her voice. Augustin plans to expand her collection to include sandals and other accessories. I do not think that this ingenious, motivated and talented

designer will stop there. I failed to mention that she also studied interior design so maybe in the future she will launch “Remodeling for the Divas.” Diva Collections is located at Delmas 19, Tel: 3552-5521

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Lamanjay

Océane: Seafood Delight By Farah Doura | Photos by Frederick Alexis

A

nyone looking for Creole seafood dining can find it at Océane in Pétion-Ville. The goto place for the last ten years, this restaurant upholds its good reputation thanks to the care of three hands-on partners striving to offer quality cuisine and service. Set up in a Haitian style garden, the atmosphere combines Caribbean tunes with the breeze and shading provided by tropical trees. Here, the menu offers first class fish and the house specialty is the Soupe du Pêcheur (Fisherman’s Soup). “Anyone who’s had a Soupe du Pêcheur elsewhere can in no way compare it to the soup to be had here,” says Dr. Jocelyne Simon, one of the owners. This particular Soupe du Pêcheur contains crab and lobster that are combined with Creole seasoning composing a broth that hits all the right spots. A couple of the customary “bòy” (dumplings) are added to the mix sealing the flavor. People from all over the world come to the restaurant just to try this famous dish, according to Mr. Jean Robert Samy, one of Dr. Simon’s partners.

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Next comes the Shrimp in a Garlic Butter sauce. Very appetizing at first glance, even more so at the first bite. Lime is squeezed onto the dish and the tanginess of the garlic sauce emerges to dress the perfectly sautéed shrimps that accompany the white rice very well. According to the suggested wine list, a “2010 Bordeaux” should be the white of choice to accompany this dish. Yes, it’s fine Creole dining. Meanwhile, Dr. Simon and Mrs. Rashel Simon, the third owner, warmly greet and chitchat with their guests as an attentive wait staff provides service with a smile. Thus proving what Rashel had said regarding the inspiration behind the restaurant: “We wanted to create an atmosphere where everyone can feel comfortable and relaxed. We want people to feel at home. Come in dressed up or laid back, it’s up to you” she adds. As one customer puts it “I do like the food here, the seafood is great, but what I enjoy the most is that it feels as though I am in my own backyard.” Now we are served a perfectly grilled red snapper that is completely filled with flavor which gets a kick from the fiery sòs timalis served as a condiment (suggested only to spicy food lovers). The heat


is subdued between bites of bannan peze and the clove infused wild mushroom rice complements the dish. The hand behind all this culinary excitement is a local Haitian chef trained by Dr. Simon’s family. They have been in the fishing industry for the last 75 years and owned a fishery in Belle-Anse, a town located south of Port-au-Prince. Undeniably a connoisseur in the field, the restaurant’s cuisine introduces novelties with the likes of the Fish Filet appetizer smoked in house and prepared by a Corsican. Seafood aside, the à la carte menu offers meat and poultry options such as the Beef Filet with Cream Sauce and Mushrooms and the Creole Chicken with Cashews. Lunch is over and it’s time to leave. The two hours spent at Océane feasting on the fresh produce that this enchanting island has to offer was practically rejuvenating. The vibe, the colors, and the food did things to the senses that make this restaurant a tradition. However, the most memorable moment was the experience of reliving a charm that was somewhat lost in Haiti: Haitian hospitality.

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Escapade Escapade

Club Indigo : The Blue Gem of Haiti’s Northern Beach Coast

By Maureen Boyer Photos by Homère Cardichon

24 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

T

he moment you make that right hand turn to enter the grounds of Club Indigo, the tree lined driveway welcomes you and the decompression begins.

You walk through the wide entrance made of wood that’s been painted white and from the lobby area you can see the pool and even get a glimpse of the tempting clear blue sea. The sharp contrast of the white edifices against the blue surround-

ing takes your breath away. And all of the sudden you realize this is it! You are on vacation! There’s no doubt that you will enjoy going to partake in a very scenic weekend or day getaway in the biggest resort on the Cotes des Arcadins, on the northern coast of Haiti. Club Indigo is among one of the favorite family resorts Hai-


ti has to offer which is why several hundred relaxation-seekers visit or lodge there weekly. Recently Theodora Joseph, one of Club Indigo’s managers, gave Magic a tour. Club Indigo now stands where Haiti’s Club Med used to be in the mid-1980s and 1990s. For a few years it was in the hands of the states before an association of several Haitian families decided to invest in the locale in 2006. Today, it offers 220 operational rooms and is considered as one of the premier conference centers. In an effort to better meet the needs of their guests they will be

renovating the rooms and enhancing the conference centers. By the end of January, they will have renovated 30 rooms. And there are other beautification plans in the works such as transforming some of the rooms into apartments. Known for its long stretch of white sandy beach (1500-meter long), guests can lounge either by the water or on a comfy lounge chair by the seaside pool with a clear view of the beach. Club Indigo offers a wide variety of aquatic and beach sports such as beach volleyball, basketball, soccer or golf, tennis, ar-

chery, kayaking and snorkeling. At night, the disco comes to life and you can sway to all various genres of music from Reggae to House to American Pop and even Hip Hop. Guests can also enjoy the beach, theme parties, or simply have delicious tropical cocktails from the friendly bartenders. The comfortable, but simple rooms provide WiFi for a small fee and offer stunning views of the beach and palm trees. Club Indigo serves buffet-style meals in the cafeteria, surrounded by lush greenery and grass. The cafeteria gives a marvelous view of the ocean and there is even a pizzeria shack right on the

beach. Chef Markens Isidore has recently taken over the kitchen. He’s spiced the menu, conjured up dishes which reflect his experience with French cooking techniques and as a result, the menus is a fusion of Haitian, French and international cuisine. They have a fish ceviche that everyone must have. The resort is managed by a group of young dynamic individuals educated abroad who recognize the importance of providing good customer service. The group provides employment for those living in the area. In addition, they promote arts and craft

JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 25


by affording local artists an opportunity to display their paintings, sculptures, accessories, and bracelets near the lobby. The resort also encourages local production by purchasing as much local produce and seafood as possible. The management at Club Indigo has made this a priority, as a result through USAID Winner, they have signed a Memorandum of Understanding with several farming associations in the area committing to purchase their produce to strengthen their capacity and productivity.

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Thinking about vacationing, Club Indigo is a great destination spot whether you are coming from “lot bo dlo� meaning internationally or Port-auPrince. The food, the accommodations, and the service are all designed to help you appreciate the natural beauty, of which Haiti has plenty of, from the clear blue water to the hues of oranges, yellows and reds after an early evening sunset.


Spotlight

Marie Beliard A Patisserie with Passion By Lisa Jutsum Photos by Homère Cardichon

L

Sonia Vorbe and her two sons, Dimitri and Joel Edouard (Pacha)

ocated in the heart of Pétion-Ville, Marie Beliard, fondly known as Chez Marie, bakes thousands of delicious pastries and hundreds of decadent cakes each day. What an average customer might not know, however, is that this small bakery has a rich family history. The owner of Marie Beliard, Sonia Vorbe, enthusiastically says, “This is a family business; it is a pleasure to do this with my children.” With family roots tracing back generations to Cap Haitien, Marie Beliard, Sonia’s grandmother, founded this bakery in the early 1950s. She started it all in her small kitchen, baking cakes for family and friends. But, as word spread of Marie’s cakes, she started to take outside orders. As her small business began to flourish, it was Marie’s daughter, Suzanne, who took the initiative to create a storefront at Marie’s house and expand the business. Thus early in its history, Marie Beliard was a family affair.

JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 27


Save more, do more

28 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

This mother-daughter team of Marie and Suzanne started on the front porch of their home. Yet it wasn’t before long that this resilient family would be tested. Suzanne passed away at the young age of 48, the same year that her daughter, Sonia Vorbe, gave birth to her eldest son. It was as a young, strong mother that Sonia Vorbe took over the family business with the help of her grandmother Marie. Eager to represent her grandmother’s heritage, Sonia had a renewed vision for the patisserie. She knew that over the years, Marie’s home had become too small for the growing business. In 1990, with the help of her businesssavvy husband, Joel Vorbe, they tore down Marie’s home and in only five months, while raising 4 young children, constructed the building we know today as Marie Beliard. For more than 20 years, this building has served thousands of customers. As Sonia Vorbe says, “Today is always someone’s birthday, marriage, or communion; today someone will need a cake!” With the dynamic partnership of Joel and Sonia, the managerial businessman and

the innovative, talented cook, Marie Beliard thrived. One year ago, the family business faced another challenge. Joel Vorbe, whose courage and strength will forever be an inspiration, passed away. And in his honor and memory, three of his children, Naike, Pacha and Dimitri, committed to help run the family business. Today, Sonia and her three children are continuing the legacy of their greatgrandmother, whose passion of baking lives on in her descendants. Marie Beliard is well-known for their pâté poulet (chicken patty) and tarte de Vienne (marshmallow cake); and you want to make sure to get there before all their French baguettes run out! With fair prices and great service, you will find an array of pastries, from a mille-feuille (cake of a thousand sheets) to a fruit tart, ready to go for


Sonia Vorbe and her daugther Naïke

your morning breakfast or afternoon business meeting. For any event, Marie Beliard will make a specialized cake at your request. Or just stop by and purchase one of the fresh cakes baked daily. For all your pastry needs, the Vorbe family is there for you! And in addition to providing pastries and cakes for celebrations across Port-auPrince, they still have time to reach out to the community as a family, contributing to local school fundraisers and working with Project Medishare. With the combination of Sonia’s creative baking, her son Pasha’s patisserie training in France, and the support of Naike and Dimitri, this dynamite family team is renowned for their customer service and quality baked goods. The Vorbe

family has always been close, but now they lean on one another to run one of the most successful bakeries in Port-auPrince metropolitan area. For me, it’s a Sunday morning tradition; I simply cannot resist my favorite pastry. With a cappuccino in hand and an almond croissant to go, I begin each Sunday with Marie Beliard. And now, when I start my Sundays, I will know that I am truly at the home of the greatgrandmother who started it all, Marie Beliard. I will know that I am truly Chez Marie. Patisserie Marie Beliard is located at Angle Rue Faubert & Lambert Phone: 509-2813-1515/1516 Hours of Operation: Monday – Saturday: 6h30 am – 6h pm Sunday: 6h30 am – 1h pm

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Michel Chataigne

Artmosphere

30 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

Haiti’s Style Tycoon I

By Maureen Boyer Photos by Frederick Alexis

n Haiti there are just a handful of recognizable names in the world of beauty. Fortyseven old Michel Chataigne is definitely among them. An expert in hair styling and skin beauty, Chataigne also has a fashion and travel bag line, owns a cosmetology school and is involved in several art projects. So how does he identify himself? “I call myself a creator,” he says, “because I do not stay in one field.” Nonetheless, he concedes that the

domain he is most known for is hair styling, which he has been doing for 27 years. Michel Chataigne was born and raised in Port-au-Prince. After finishing secondary school, he moved to Canada to study economics. He only lasted four months before he dropped out and enrolled in cosmetology school in Montreal. It was not a random decision, he says. Chataigne knew as a young boy that he had an aptitude for styling hair. His first clients were the dolls he practiced on. When his parents learned of his “defection” from what they perceived to be a good career


path, to cosmetology, they cut him off financially. But Chataigne’s strong, rebellious and determined nature enabled him to overcome the taboo of men as hairstylists. He returned to Haiti to continue his studies, but a year later the school where he was enrolled closed its doors due to political unrest. Chataigne used the time to hone his skills and started styling hair professionally on his sister’s balcony. That was the beginning of what is today a clientele that makes his hair salon one of the most popular in Portau-Prince. But, as noted earlier, Chataigne does not stop at styling hair. He creates natural hair products like oils, serums, and creams that he uses in his salon. He also has a line of makeup he created after networking at a tradeshow in Las Vegas. He works closely with many dermatologists who refer patients to him. He has even had the chance to research the negative effects of skin bleaching in Syria with a dermatologist! His line of makeup can be found in his salon as well as several boutique stores in Pétion-Ville. With the help of late renowned hairstylist Michele Bourjolly Celestin, a friend and a mentor to Chataigne, he began to participate in different semi-

nars around the world. “She brought me to environments where I could advance my education. She brought me to Paris for the first time and I went with her to Los Angeles. Every time we would come back from a seminar we would meet up with other hairstylists and I would recreate the seminars for them” he says. These seminars gained so much traction that he could no longer host them in salons but instead had to secure large conference room in hotels. In 1994, Chataigne opted to sharpen his skills and enrolled at Duddley’s University in Greenville, North Carolina. He returned to Duddley’s in 1996 to complete his doctorate and it is during this stint that he decided to open a cosmetology school in Port-au-Prince. The school works in coordination with his alma mater so students get to follow both the Haitian and the American curriculum. It has been open for

15 years now and graduates on average 50 students per year. Chataigne also designs a clothing line, an accessories line as well as travel bags. His current focus is fashion, with a goal to support his students and other young people involved in the arts. He hopes to open a school in each of Haiti’s four largest cities. Michel Chataigne truly has a hand in everything regarding style in Haiti. This man of many talents never ceases to amaze us and continually raises the bar. 16, Rue Carlstroem 2245-0326 / 2245-5851 michelchataigne@yahoo.com

JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 31


Postcard in Motion

SAUT D’EAU By Nastasia Boulos Photos by Frederick Alexis

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H

undreds of people dancing, singing, even screaming beneath a powerful 100-foot waterfall while some are bathing with soap and leaves, washing the skin of their half-naked bodies, as others drink, laugh, and pray to the gods, oblivious to the sharp edges or slippery patches of the rocks they stand on. Once in a while, someone falls to the ground, their eyes rolling to the back of their head, in a trance. That is the scene at Saut d’Eau, every year in July, it becomes the site of a three-day celebration honoring Our Lady of Mount Carmel (said to have appeared on a tree near the waterfall) and/or the closely related Vodou spirit Erzuli Dantor. Thousands make the pilgrimage, sometimes saving up for years, to ask the gods for a better life, a cure to an illness for wealth and fortune, for a car, and a TV. They bring offerings that range from fruits and vegetables to whole pigs and bulls. With rum and music added to the mix, it becomes an extremely highenergy event. But today, on a sunny Sunday in December, the mood is sober; quiet; and peaceful. No voodoo rituals, no prayers, no music or dancing. But as I stare at the waterfall for a few minutes from the top of a small hill, it’s clear why even the non-religious find this place so appealing. No railings, no forbidden areas. The waterfall is yours to explore, to see, to feel. We drove approximately 60 kilometers northeast of Port-auPrince on National Road 3 to get to this part of town. The Parc de Saut d’Eau is located in Ville Bonheur (literally translated as City of Joy), on the outskirts of Mirebalais, in the Centre Department.

We paid a small fee to enter the site and made our way down a long wide stairway shaded at times by trees. As we got closer, the sound of the falling water got louder until finally, we were able to see this famous Haitian landmark, whose symbolism is historic and runs very deep. The water is warm. I climb further and further up, as Jean, a guide from the area, helps me along the way. While I walk slowly, slightly terrified of falling, he however, looks as if he is walking on solid ground. “Ou pas bezwen pe,” he says, “Met pie’w la.” Don’t be scared, put your foot right here. He knows every inch of this place, which brings thousands of foreign and local visitors to his town, by heart. “In a way,” he says, “Saut d’Eau is my lifeline. Sometimes people come from so far away. Just to see our waterfall. And when things aren’t going well for me, I come here to bathe and pray.” Around one of the trees, an elaborate candle-holder surrounded by empty bottles of rum serves as a sort of shrine. One woman swims around in the water, stopping at times to wash her body with soap and leaves, unabashed by our presence. “Those are basil leaves,” Jean informs me. “It smells good. The gods like that.” She’s come to ask for a new job. In a small alcove under the falling water, I spot a straw basket filled with fruits and vegetables. A big blue bow completes the package. Another gift to the Gods. I lay down at the top of the fall, and all I can hear is the sound of the water as it hits my face, my arms and legs. In this place of hope and prayer, where Voodoo and Catholic beliefs collide, perhaps I, too, can ask the gods for something. JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 33


Kreyol Flair

Bib Lokal (Local Bible)

The Haitian “Bible” sandwich as it is originally named was made famous in the mountains of Kenscoff by street vendors who would make a sandwich from a “special” bread called biscuit which really looked like a Bible. This special bread would be stuffed with “griyo”

TOTAL TIME:

20 Minutes (If pork is already prepared) Prep Time 10 Minutes Pork Prep Time 2.5 Hours Cook Time 10 Minutes

YIELD: 1 Person LEVEL: Medium INGREDIENTS

Sandwich 2 whole plantains – Flattened 4 oz fried marinated pork 2 oz pikliz 2 oz creole sauce

Avocado Salad 1 Slice of Tomato 3 oz of avocado – cubed 1 oz of canned corn 1 tsp of lime juice Salt & pepper to taste Creole T-Malice Sauce 2oz of Pork Stock – Taken from the preparation of the “griyo” 1 Scotch bonnet pepper split in two (add only if you like it extra spicy) 1/2 onion julienned 2 medium size shallots julienned 1oz of chopped parsley 1 head of dry thyme 1oz of lemon juice 1tbsp of butter Griyo Pork Shoulder - cut in half inch cubes Vinegar Sour orange Salt Thyme Scotch bonnet pepper Pikliz White Cabbage shredded Red Cabbage shredded Carrots cut in thin strips Green beans cut in thin strips White vinegar Scotch bonnet peppers

SANDWICH DIRECTIONS

Take two whole plantains and place them in cold salted water with a dash of lemon juice. Pat them dry and drop them in very hot oil (325 degrees Fahrenheit) fry plantains for a first time than take them 34 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

(marinated fried pork) than a layer of Creole sauce and Pikliz (Haitian Spicy Coleslaw). I decided to twist it a little and create my own version. It is now one of my signature dishes at “Le Plaza Hotel” in Haiti.

out and press them until flattened. Dip them in the water mixture a second time and fry until crispy and golden brown. Pat them dry for excess oil and set aside. Prepare the Creole sauce by heating up a sauté pan, add the butter, onions and shallots and cook for one minute. Add your pork stock and the rest of the ingredients. Drop your chunks of fried pork in the sauce and let it cook for a minute or two, just enough time for the griyo to soak in some of that flavor, and set aside. On a plate, place the first piece of plantain add the prepared fried pork and add the “pikliz” on top of the pork. Place the other piece of plantain then cut in tree pieces and serve like a sandwich with the avocado salad on the side. Prepare rapidly the avocado salad by combining the avocado cubed with the lemon juice, salt & pepper. Mount the salad like a napoleon by using a round mold and placing the slices of tomatos on the bottom, then the avocados and lastly the corn.

FRIED PORK DIRECTIONS

Purchase a pork shoulder and have your butcher cut the pork in 1/2 inch cubes. Clean the pork with the sour orange and leave for 30 minutes. Rinse the pork and season the well with the vinegar and the salt. In a pot, add pork with salted vinegar mixture and prepare a bouquet garnie with the thyme and hot pepper. Boil pork for two hours until pork reaches an internal temperature of 165 degrees and let it cool. In a fryer or pot heat up some vegetable oil to 325 degrees and fry the pork until golden brown, but not to a crisp.


JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 35


Why Haiti?

The Story of a

Dutch Father By Taïna Mayard | Photos by Frederick Alexis

I was born in the Netherlands. I lived there until the age of 29. Then I moved abroad in March 1969 to Surinam.” That is how Rob Padberg, embarks on telling the story of his life journey and how Haiti became his home. He had just wed his wife and they were still without child at the time.” It’s been 44 years since. Prior to moving to Surinam, he had visited the country on many occasions. It is during one of these business trips that he was offered a position. Upon his return to Holland, he discussed the job proposition with his wife and he proceeded to tell her all of the things that were wrong with Surinam. However, she was not fooled by his comments, since she had heard him speak so lovingly of the country. And together they took the leap of faith and decided to experience a tropical lifestyle in Surinam in spite of their outstanding mortgage debt. He worked for a multicultural Hindustan company for three years. He later accepted a position at the Curacao Trading Company, an international Dutch company. There, he completed the maximum two term contracts (each of three years), which at the time, was the time limit for individuals in his position working in such a corporation could


stay in a country. He thus had to be assigned a position in another country. Haiti was the next stop. Though he had never been to Haiti, he had danced to Haitian konpa because the famed Haitian band “Shleu Shleu” was a big hit in Surinam as well. When they left Surinam, his children, Robin and Myriam, were respectively 6 and 5 years old. Until now, he believes it was beneficial for his children to have grown up in an environment with such an abundance of sun, ethnicities and culture. Transitioning from Surinam to Haiti was fairly easy for the Padberg family. Padberg outlines a lot of similarities between the social fabrics of the two countries despite the differences in overall environments.

In Haiti, he continued working at the Curacao Trading company. Upon completion of his first three-year contract, he signed on for another three years. At the end of 1984 he had to decide if he would remain with the company and once again relocate to another country. Decisions, decisions. They liked the weather and enjoyed being here in Haiti and now had to ponder what their next move would be. Would they move to another Caribbean island? Padberg began identifying his options. He was not offered a family post, meaning that he would have to relocate his family to Holland and he would have had to travel every six to eight weeks to Holland for rest and recreation for a few days. That was not an

option for them. “That was not my idea of being married and having a family” Padberg firmly states. Luckily, he was quickly approached by a group of mission-

aries who claimed to “have found a solution to his problem.” These Dutch and Belgian missionaries whom he knew wanted to undertake a Food Aid project sponsored by the European Union.

JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 37


They judged that Padberg was the most suitable candidate because of his knowledge of international trade but mainly because of his experience in Haiti. The plan was for him to take over the Food Aid project, set up a nongovernmental organization (NGO) and move on from there. “The only thing I knew about calorie intake was: how many beers were too many (four according to my wife),” he says. “So I refused their offer ten times.” The eleventh time however, Padberg came to an agreement with the missionaries and decided to tackle the food aid project. He set up the Bureau de Nutrition et de Development, Office of Nutrition and Development which has since grown from a company of 1 staff member (himself) to a group of 120 employees today. “119 of the employees are Haitian and one is a blan (foreigner), and that’s me” he adds jokingly. The Bureau de Nutrition et de Development caters mainly to feeding children in schools. It operates in three different departments of the country: the Departement de L’Ouest, the Departement du Centre and the Department de l’Artibonite. They provide food to a total of 750 schools, there-

38 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

by feeding 285,000 children on a daily basis. His social business has had and continues to have a significant impact in the communities that are implicated. With his job Padberg traveled a lot throughout the country and often times his family journeyed with him. When asked what is your favorite place in Haiti, he replies mischievously, “Quartier Latin if my wife his reading.” Padberg then speaks of the beauty of the southern beaches of Haiti, particularly those close to Cayes, in the south. “In the north, Labadi is one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. And there is also the Cormier Beach Hotel area” he adds. But most of all, the plateau central is by far his favorite. “I love it there, it is a life completely different. I spend a lot of time in areas like Maissade outside of Hinche. I love those smaller types of villages. In the Department du Sud-Est there are villages like Tiote and Bel Anse that are equally very nice. “In fact!” he adds, before leaving us “though Holland is a beautiful country, I can spend no longer then ten days there, because I quickly crave to go home. And home is Haiti.”


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JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 39


Why Haiti?

Robin

Padberg

Growing up Dutch in the Caribbean

By Kassandra Elizée | Photos by Frederick Alexis

R

obin Padberg was six years old when his father decided to move from the Surinam to Haiti to work as an expatriate for a Dutch corporation. The plan was to be there for a few years, six at the most. However, when his contract ended, Robin’s dad declined his company’s proposal offering him a non-family posting in another country (which would mean his two children and his wife would have to move back to the Netherlands). Instead, he decided to stay in Haiti and pursue his own endeavors. Sitting on a terrace outside his mother’s and sister’s restaurant in Pétion-Ville (Quartier Latin), Robin sips on a soda as he explains that he was born in Surinam to Dutch parents, thereby making him a Dutch citizen. He was so young when his parents moved to Haiti that he didn’t really know how to feel about the move and whether to be apprehensive about it or not. He does remember though that the transition was very challenging, mainly because he had to immediately accommodate to a new culture and learn to speak English, French and Kreyòl.

40 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

Robin had a very thrilling childhood, one full of memorable highlights. “I love the country that I grew up in, the culture, the friends, and the school. It was a wonderful environment in which we were able to thrive as children,” he explains, with a reminiscent look in his bright blue eyes. Despite the political upheaval in the 80’s, Haiti was a country that was very open and very free. There was very little crime and it was an environment in which many children had the ability to grow up with an incredible sense of freedom and in an almost carefree environment, according to Padberg. As a child, Robin did a lot of traveling throughout Haiti with his family. One of his favorite destinations has always been the Cormier Beach Hotel in Cap Haïtien, a city on the north coast of the country with beautiful beaches, architecture and history. Robin enjoyed beautiful mountaintops such as the Seguin forest, magnificent waterfalls such as Saut d’Eau, and so many beautiful beaches in different parts of the country. “Haiti was a virgin land at


the time, making it most definitely difficult to get to different areas but then that much more exciting to see nature at its purest state” he recalls. He remembers enjoying some of the most beautiful beaches he has ever seen along the South

Coast such as in the St Louis du Sud areas. Robin was an adventurous child and at the same time, had a very reserved personality. His fondest memories while growing up in Haiti were the times he spent with friends. He viv-

idly remembers going to the Pètion-Ville Country Club where he could play tennis, his favorite sport, as well as golf. “As teenagers growing up, there were a lot of different attractions during my time,” he says. He also remembers the movie nights, swimming events and taking part in different camps organized for children at the club and hanging out in places that were considered the Hot Spots such as Roma’s Pizza. Robin enjoys eating a variety of cuisines. ‘‘I’m one of these people who’s a big fan of food and I like pretty much everything,’’ he says laughing. In Haitian cuisine, some of his favorites are poisson boucané (grilled

fish) and a variety of accompaniments including the different Haitian stews and patties. Robin attended the well-known American Union School and upon graduation from high school, his parents encouraged him to go to the Netherlands so he could better understand where he came from, get to know his extended family and pursue post-secondary studies. “I have always felt a connection to my Dutch roots,” he says. “But to me, Haiti is home. If I could go back in time and change things, I would have moved to Haiti again.” While he was abroad for school, for example, he felt homesick. “That says

JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 41


something,” he tells me. When asked, Robin says he can’t think of one favorite place he loved to visit in Haiti as a child. “I wouldn’t be able to say that I could choose one spot, they were all very different” he says. Wherever he went there were wonderful breathtaking sights. Today, the Chief Executive Officer of Voila (mobile telephone company) is grateful to have had the opportunity to travel around the country. Robin still likes to indulge in nature and is glad that he can share these treasures with his children, ranging from being able to go out into the mountainside to visiting the coastal areas to see the beaches, the natural wonders that characterize Haiti. If Robin Padberg has any

42 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

piece of advice to give to tourists who come to visit or foreigners deciding to relocate to Haiti, it would be: “Always maintain an open mind, take the time to understand the history and culture of Haiti and make an effort to integrate the society.” Robin says he sees Haiti as a country that is on the verge of something beautiful. He strongly believes in the mindset that is being brought to Haiti now, where “change” seems inevitable. He believes though that this change has to benefit everybody for it to truly have an impact. “We are really on the verge of seeing something beautiful within this country, where Haiti’s position in the world could drastically change,” Robin says with a lot of hope in his voice.


restaurants

Acajou Restaurant & Bar

Café de l'Europe

Anba Tonèl, Bar & Grill

Chez Wou

Haitian/international Cuisine Hôtel Montana Rue Frank Cardozo, Bourdon 2940 0585 / 3880 6610 Haitian Cuisine Angle des Rues Clerveaux et Villate. PV 3403 0822

French Cuisine 17. Rue Mangonès. Berthé. PV 3 406 8525 / 3 464 0468 / 3 702 5591 Chinese Cuisine Place Boyer, PV 3777 6625 / 3777 6626

Chicken Fiesta

Emina's Garden

Kay Atizan

Fabrizio

L'Olivier

Fior Di Latte

La Coquille

Italian Cuisine 36, Rue Magny, PV 3747 1177 / 2816 2005 Itilian Cuisine 26, Rue Louverture, PV 2257 8433

Haitian Cuisine 6, Rue Ogé. PV 2 940 0041

American and Chinese Cuisine 124. Rue Panaméricaine. PV 2813 9866

Italian Cuisine Choucoune Plaza, Angle des Rues Lamarre et Chavannes, PV 2813 0445

Babako

Citronelle

il Vigneto

Assiette Créole

Haitian Cuisine 254. avenue John Brown. Lalue 2813 1912

BreakTIme

Haitian Cuisine 38. Rue Darguin. PV 3515 6262 / 3554 0027

Café Com' Ça

Fusion Complexe Promenade. Angles Rues Grégoire et Moïse, PV 2943 2014 / 3444 0607

Haitian Cuisine Shodecosa, 5 Rue des NÎmes 3558 8387

Coin des Artistes

Haitian Cuisine 59, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3747 1163

Domino's Pizza

Fast Food 91, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2514 7574 / 2813 1446 2813 1447

Italian Cuisine 7, Rue Rigaud, PV 3419 2050 / 3736 5414

HANG Sports Bar & Grill

31, angle des Rues Clerveaux et Rigaud, PV 2942 4264

Intrigue

Italian Cuisine Hôtel Ibo Lélé, Montagne Noire, PV 2940 8504

Haitian Cuisine 43, Rue Magny, PV 3456 6989 / 3452 1772 Haitian Cuisine 37, route Montagne Noire 3455 4454 / 3467 0707 Haitian Cuisine 10, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 5225 / 3466 3908

La Plantation

French Cuisine Rue Borno, Bois Moquette, 22941 6334

La Réserve - ATH

2, Rue Marcel Toureau, Berthé, PV 2940 0190

La Souvenance French Cuisine 48, Rue Geffrard, PV 3475 9795

La Table de Cauis

16, Rue Legitime, Champs de Mars 2940 7227

JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 43


Le Christo Villa Russo

Corner Rue Faubert & Ogé, 3736 4166

Le Daily Gourmet Cafe

Océane Bar & Grill

Haitian Cuisine 3 bis. Rue Derenoncourt PV 2940 2449

Rue Roumain off Tabare same yard as Maison Handal across Parc Canne a Sucre. Email: Ledailycafe@gmail.com +509 3411 5274

Papaye

Le Florville

Italian Cuisine 36. Rue Chavonnes, PV 2 813 2100 / 2 813 2200

Haitian Cuisine Kenscoff 3551 3535 / 3449 6161

Le P'tit Creux

Haitian Cuisine 87, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 3892 / 2942 3893

Le Paris St Tropez

88, route de Kenscoff, Laboule 12 3410 7219

Les 3 Decks - ATH Fusion 3 bis, Fermathe 54, 3418 8511 / 3462 6201

Fusion 48. Rue Métellus. PV 3558 2707 / 3771 3678

Pizza Garden

Presse Café

Haitian Cuisine 28, Rue Rigaud. PV 3 701 0092

Quartier Latin

Fusion 10, Rue Gou/ard. Place Boyer. PV 3460 3326 / 3445 3325

Rebo Expresso

25, Rue Métellus. PV 2949 0505

Les Délices Burger

The Bookstore Cafe & Wine Bar

Les Jardins de Gérard

The Lodge

Fast Food 97, Rue Grégoire, PV 3646 1600 / 3646 1601

Esperanza Building, 87,Rue Grégoire. PV 3774 6729

17, Rue Pinchinat, PV 3449 5943

Fusion Furcy. après Kenscoff 3458 5968 / 2510 9870

Look-Nun's Thai Restaurant

The View

Thai Cuisine 35, Rue Villate, PV 3724 1661

Magdoos

Mediterranean Cuisine #30 Rue Ogé P.V 3821-2121 / 3733-2525

Mikaz

Fusion Complexe Le Belvédère. Angle des Rues Chavannes & Clerveaux. PV 3632 7706

Tiffany Restaurant

Haitian Cuisine Boulevard Harry Truman. Bicentenaire

Fusion 56, Rue Geffrard, PV 2256 2659 / 3727 5951

5 Coins

Mozaik

Celeri Rouge

Fusion 89, Rue Grégoire, PV 3702 3939

20, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2511 1044 / 2257 0277 88, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3719 9670 / 3587 9670

Mr. Grill Steak House Fusion 39, Rue Rigaud. PV 3620 4954 / 3620 4844

Muncheez

Fast Food 2. Rue Rebecca, PV 3713 1393 / 2942 1392

O Brasileiro Social Club

103, Rue Louverture, PV 3813 1050

44 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

www.magichaiti.com


travel companion

Hôtel du Village

(Port Salut) portsaluthotelduvillage@yahoo.fr +509 3713- 9035

Auberge du Rayon Vert

Côte Atlantique Hostellerie du Roi Christophe ATH - (Cap Haitien)

hotroi24@yahoo.com 3 687 8915

Résidence Royale

(Cap Haitien) golfromes@hotmail.com +509 3602-6676 2942- 0540 / 2813- 7959

Hôtel Mont Joli-ATH

(Cap Haitien) hotelmontjoli@gmail.com +509 3943-1110 / 2262-0300

Auberge du Picolet

(Cap Haitien) auberge.picolet@gmail.com + 509 2945- 5595 3438-6357

Hôtel Beaux Rivages

(Cap Haitien) beaurivagehotel@yahoo.fr +509 2262-3114 / 3682-5583

Cormier Plage-ATH cormier@hughes.net +509 3702-0210 3804- 6673 / 3556- 1549

Côte Caraïbe Cap Lamandou- ATH

Jacmel +509 2941-4000 +509 3720-1892 3920-9135 / 3720-1436 caplamandouhotel@yahoo.fr

Hôtel Villa Ban Yen

(Petit-Goâve-Vallue) absept60@yahoo.fr +509 3420-2091 / 3941-2091

Auberge du Mont Saint Jean

(Vallée de Jacmel) aubergesaintjean@yahoo.com +509 3702-0510 3707-0605 / 3401-1789

L’Amitié Guest House :

Ti Mouillage, Cayes Jacmel (509) 2942-7156 / 3417-7582

Hotel Florita

Located in Jacmel +509 3785-5154 2288-2806 / 3905- 1732 hôtelflorita@yahoo.fr

Centre Hotel l'Ermitage de Pandiassou

(Hinche) 3472 -5934 / 3474-1599 3741-8753 lermitagedepandiassou@yahoo. com

Hotel Maguana (Hinche) 2277-0528

Wozo Plaza

(Mirebalais) 3455-7730/ 2942-1256 wozoplazahotel@yahoo.fr

Dan’s creek

(Port Salut) danscreekhotel@gmail.com www.danscreekhotel.com +509 3614-8143 / 3664- 0404

Relais du Boucanier

(Port Salut) lerelaisduboucanier@hotmail.com www.leboukanier.com +509 3558- 1806 / 3720-1144 3702- 1066 / 3554-1806

Auberge du canal d’Avezac Levy (Camp Perrin) +509 3739-2800

Le Recul

(Camp Perrin) valnuma@yahoo.fr +509 3454-0027 / 3727-3589

Aldy Hôtel- ATH

(Aquin) nancyecomeau@yahoo.fr +509 3458-2566 / 3741-0532

Abakabay

(Ile a Vache) abakabay@hotmail.com +509 3721-3691 / 3683- 6253 www.abakabay.com

Port Morgan

(Ile a Vache) portmorgan@hughes.net, www. port-morgan.com +509 3921-0000 3922-0001 / 3663-5154

Manolo Inn

(Petite Rivière de Nippes) lemanoloinn@mac.com +509 3461-7108 3768-2059 / 3752- 3838 3727- 0201

Port-au-Prince Coconut Villa-ATH

3, Rue Berthold, Delmas 19 3 179 3752 / 2 510 4901 3 556 1549 coconutvilla19@aol.com

El Rancho-ATH

5, rue Jose Marti, Avenue des Hôtels, PV 2 944 0707

Habitation Hatt-ATH

+ 509 2510-2635 / 2940-0135 sachasaieh@hotmail.com,

Ibo Lélé-ATH

elsabaussan@yahoo.com, jvinchy@yahoo.fr +509 2514- 0166 2940- 8503 / 2940- 8504

Ideal Villa

6 Delmas 53, Rte de Delmas

Karibe Hôtel-ATH

info@karibehotel.com 2812- 7000 3701-1138 / 3701- 1140 www.karibehotel.com

(Marigot- Jacmel) lacollineenchantee@gmail.com +509 3703-0448 / 3701-96 97 (Cyvadier- Jacmel) hotelcyvadier@hughes.net +509 3844-8264 3482-2585 / 3844- 8265

+509 3756- 5212 3932-5810 ouangabay@hotmail.com

(Port Salut) aubergedurayonvert@yahoo.fr www.aubergedurayonvert.com +509 3713-9035 / 3779- 1728

La Colline Enchantée

Cyvadier Plage

Ouanga Bay

Côte des Arcadins Kaliko-ATH

kalikobeachclub@hotmail.com +509 2940 4609 / 4640 2223

Wahoo Bay-ATH

wahoo@dadesky.com +509 3735- 2536/ 3735-2831

Moulin sur Mer-ATH info@moulinsurmer.com + 509 3701- 1918 2813- 1042 / 3702- 1918

Club Indigo- ATH

contact@clubindigo.net, reservations@clubindigo.net + 509 3651-1000 3650-1000 / 3441-1000

Xaragua Hôtel- ATH

lexaraguahotel@yahoo.fr +509 2510-9559 / 3795- 5983

JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 45


travel companion Kinam Hôtel-ATH

info@hotelkinam.com , reservation@hotelkinam.com +509 2944- 6000 / 2945- 6000 /2945- 6001 / 2511- 4400 ww.hotelkinam.com

La Réserve Guest House-ATH

+509 3452-3065 / 3510- 5026 3510- 4678 / 3940- 0182

Le Montcel-ATH

(Kenscoff- Belot) montcel@aol.com/ www.montcelhaiti.com +509 3701-4777

55 Rue Metellus, PV 2 256-3471 / 3 558-7584 admin@expressionsgaleriedart.com www.expressionsgaleriedart.com

Festival Arts

43 Rue Magny, PV 3 551-7311 3 401-3171 festivalhaiti@yahoo.fr

Galerie Marassa

Ou impasse des Hôtels

Rue Jose Martin

Rue Rebeca

Pétion-Ville

Rue Derenoncourt

Rue Derenoncourt

e

46 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

28.13.10.57

The Lodge--ATH

Villa Ban-Yen

Expressions Art Gallery

eric ain

Port-au-Prince www.villabambouhaiti.com +509 2813-1724

Le Plaza-ATH

Art Galleries

am

The Inn at Villa Bambou

Villa Créole--ATH

Rue F. Cardozo +509 3880 6610

Pa n

princehotelha@yahoo.com +509 2517- 0597 3791- 1549/ 2944- 0422

Le Ritz-ATH

Montana Suite Horizon-ATH

Ru e

Prince Hôtel--ATH

3701-1744 / 3702-7202

info@plazahaiti.com, reservations@plazahaiti.com 2940- 9800 / 3701- 9303 www.plazahaiti.com

How to get there

palm.events@gmail.com +509 3706-7342 3454-0053

Furcy +509 2510 9870 3458 5968

+509 2943- 0303 apartement@hotelkinam.com catering@hotelkinam.com

Vers Bourdon

Palms Résidence

17 Rue Lamarre, PV 2 257-1967 3 702-4000 info@galeriemarassa.com www.galeriemarassa.com

Galerie Monnin

19 Rue Lamarre, PV 2 257-4430 / 3 680-3240 galeriemonnin@galeriemonnin. com www.galeriemonnin.com

Galerie Nader

50 Rue Grégoire, PV 2 257-0855 3 709-0222 galerienader@hotmail.com www.galerienader.com

+509 2941- 1570 / 2941- 1571 2941- 0965 / 2941- 1040 villacreol@aol.com Value (between Grand Goave & Petit Goave) +509 3420-2091/2941-2091 hotelvillabanyen@yahoo.com

Visa Lodge-ATH

services@visalodge.com +509 2813- 0777 / 2510- 3424 www.visalodge.com

L’Atellier Boutique Fondation Theard Fermathe 59 2 513-9874

Les Ateliers Jerôme

68 Angle des Rues Rebecca & Lamarre, PV 2 513-5362 / 3 705-6825 lesateliersjerome@yahoo.fr www.lesateliersjerome.com

Receptive Operators Agence Citadelle American Express Travel - ATH info@agencecitadelle.com +509 2940 5900 / 3445 5900 www.agencecitadelle.com

Uniglobe - ATH

uniglobe@haine.net +509 2941 0742

Voyages Lumière - ATH

voyageslumierehaiti@gmail.com + 509 3607 1321 www.voyageslumiere.com

Voyages Plus Cap-ATH vpcap1@gmail.com +509 3443 0823 / 2940 0484


Car Rental Avis

20, Rue Mais Gaté, Route de lAéroport + 509 2229 6399/ 2941 5555

Budget Rent-a-Car

Corner Rue Léonard & Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1094 / 3856 4988

Dollar Rent-a-Car

Airlines Aerolineas Mas

+ 509 3704 4560 www.aerolineasmas.com

Air Caraïbes - ATH +509 2813 1037 www.aircaraibes.com

Air Canada

+509 2810 5857 www.aircanada.com

Blvd, Toussaint Louverture, Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1800 / 3724 0950

Air France - ATH

Europcar

American Airlines

13, Blvd Jean-Jacques Dessalines, PAP + 509 2518 5555 / 2518 5556

Hertz

Route de l’Aéroport + 509 3779 0700 / 2816 0700

Secom

564 Route de Delmas + 509 2942 2940 / 2942 2941

+ 509 3115 5000 www.airfrance.com +509 2229 6000 www.aa.com

Continental Airlines www.continental.com

Copa Air

+509 2940 2326 29402327 www.copaair.com

Delta Airlines- ATH

+509 2943 3582/2816 1666

Insel Air International- ATH +509 2813 0403 www.fly-inselair.com

SALSA d’Haiti

Toussaint Louverture Int’l airport +509-2813-1222

Spirit Airlines

+ 509 2940 4421 / 2940 4422 www.spirit.com

Tortugair

+ 509 2812 8000

Turks & Caicos Airways www.airturksandcaicos.com

Transborder Bus Lines

Capital Coach Lines

info@capitalcoachline.com +509 2 512 5989 / 3 455 1777

Caribe Tours

caribetours@gmail.com +509 2 257 9379 /3 785 1946

Terra Bus

chatour@hotmail.com

Airport Shuttle Service Airport Express + 509 3445 5902

Pharmacies Obonsoins

107, Rue Loverture, PV + 509 2512 5260 3800 3737

Pharmacie du Boulevard

1, Corner Blvd. du 15 October & Rue D. Lespinasse, PAP + 509 3459 6553 3808 9050

Pharmaximum 12, Rue Ogé, PV + 509 2816 0116

We are also available online

www.magichaiti.com

JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 47


general info PASSPORT & VISA

CREDIT CARDS

No visa is required for stays less than 90 days. A valid Passport is mandatory. Visa required only for citizens of Colombia, Panama, Dominican Republic & Cuba.

Visa, MasterCard & American Express accepted in most tourist establishments. Cash Advance is available in some banks and ATMs.

ELECTRICITY 110 V, 60 cycles, American outlets

CURRENCY The national currency is the Gourde (ISO Code: HTG) The U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere. Currency exchange is available in many banks or hotel front desks. The current rate is around USD1.00 for HTG 41.00 It is advised to convert your home currency into USD before leaving since the local rate of conversion is not always advantageous.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Public transportation is not very well organized and is part of the folklore. Private taxis as well as car rentals (sedans and 4x4s) are available from various agencies. Local incoming travel agencies can also arrange cars & minibuses with drivers & guides for transfers and excursions.

INTERNET ACCESS Major hotels offer Internet access Wi-Fi in public areas & in rooms. Cyber Cafes & Hotspots are available everywhere.

48 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012

TELEPHONES Country code for Ha誰ti: 509 Local numbers increased to 8 digits. The first digit indicates whether it is a fixed phone (2) or a mobile phone (3). The three mobile phone carriers have booths at the airport.

MEDICAL CARE The hotels have a list of private doctors available for emergencies. Private hospitals offer better service than public ones. Air ambulances may be required for cases requiring transportation to facilities in the region. Several drugstores and pharmacies are available.

LOCAL AIR TRANSPORT Several local airlines offer regular flights with aircrafts of up to 19 seats to the following cities: Cap Haitien, Jeremie, Les Cayes, and Port de Paix. Aircrafts and helicopters for air taxi/charter services can also be organized to various other areas of the country.

BANKS Local & international banks have an extensive urban coverage. A limited number of ATMs is available.


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JANUARY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 3


4 MAGIC HAITI JANUARY 2012


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