MAY 2012
HAITI’S AMBASSADOR TO HOLLYWOOD
JIMMY JEAN LOUIS A CONVERSATION WITH
YANICK LAHENS PARC HISTORIQUE DE LA CANNE À SUCRE
Cultural Pillar with a Proud Past BOHEMIAN DIVERSION
CYVADIER PLAGE HOTEL
Editor’s Note Dear Readers,
In most countries, Mother’s Day is celebrated in May. Here in Haiti, it is celebrated the last Sunday of the month. Oftentimes, we tend to take our mother’s for granted; not that we do not love or appreciate them, we just fail to say it and yes maybe even show it. I do not want to sound too cheesy, but I believe that life is too short, so make everyday “Mother’s Day” and cherish and support all of your loved ones like it is the last day of your life. For those of you who have already celebrated mother’s day, call your mom on Sunday May 27th and remind her of how much she is loved and missed. My mom has been my guardian, protector, a devoted parent and grandparent. She has always had a big heart, which she shares with all who come into her life. She has shown me what unconditional love is and, more importantly, what love thy neighbor truly means. So if she were here for Mother’s Day, I would certainly take her to lunch or dinner at one of the restaurants you will peruse in this issue and then view the Toussaint L’Ouverture movie featuring well-known Haitian actor Jimmy Jean Louis. Maybe spend the weekend at a Bohemian escapade or view some artists’ workshop to let her choose a special gift, or even give her a book written by a strong Haitian female writer. She loves music, so no matter what we opted to do on this special day there would be music and especially some Twoubadou. If you are lucky enough to have your mother here in town, the May issue will provide you with a myriad of options to make the 27th as special as can be. I would like to take this opportunity to wish all the Mother’s of the world a very Happy Mother’s Day. The goal of the magazine is to promote local tourism by encouraging foreign professionals residing in Haïti for whatever length of time, Haitians living in the Diaspora visiting family and friends, as well as locals, to explore and discover the depth and breadth of Haïti. Our country is rich in culture and more specifically in the arts. Admittedly, Haïti may not be the island that comes to mind when planning a magical Caribbean getaway for rest and relaxation or just a simple vacation, but reconsider and you will be pleasantly surprised. Take a piece of Haiti home as a gift for mom. I encourage you to simply Discover Haïti and experience the Magic!
Roxane Kerby
MAGIC HAITI
MAY 2012
Artmosphere
10 32
Lamanjay Lunch Box: Fourteen Reasons to Love it ! A Twelve Star Café: Café de l’Europe
Memorable Events 4 38 40
Le Nouvelliste
Words in Print A Conversation with Yanick Lahens
Postcard in Motion Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre
Executive Editor Roxane Kerby 509 3492 2289 roxanekerby@magichaiti.com Managing Editor Nastasia Boulos Copy Editor Kristina Delatour
Ralph Allen
16
6 12 30 20 34 24
Artmosphere
Contributors Maureen Boyer Farah Doura Rachele Viard Kassandra Elizée Taïna Mayard Kristine Belizaire Christina Jean-Louis Angela Galbreath Alain Menelas Ronide Pierre Graphic Designers Rody Victor Clarens Courtois Senior Photographer Frederick Alexis
Beauty in Metal Work: Cookie Villard
Photographer Ludmillo D. Pierre
Escapade
Printed by
L’ Imprimeur SA
Cyvadier Plage Hotel, Bohemian Diversion
Publisher Le Nouvelliste
Fresh Air, Nature, Kindness: Hotel Villa Ban-Yen
Advertising
Why Haiti ? I left my heart in Port-Salut
+509 2816-0224 / 2941-4646 publicite@lenouvelliste.com
Cover Photo by Frederick Alexis
Heartbeat Ti Coca & Wanga Nègès
facebook.com/magichaiti
Haiti on my mind
www.magichaiti.com
Jimmy Jean Louis, Haiti’s Ambassador to Hollywood
product of
E J U2 N 012
Hot Dates
7
at the Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre
Crazy about Books By Ronide Pierre | Photos from Le Nouvelliste
E
ach year during the month of May or June, tons of people from near and far come together to celebrate Haitian culture through literature. Writers, publishers, and book lovers mingle at what has now become the largest book fair - and one of the biggest and most significant cultural events in Haiti - Livres en Folie. And this year, it will be held on June 7, 2012 at the Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre. Last year, more than 112 authors participated and over 30,000 books were sold at the fair. It is difficult to imagine, then, that the first Livres en Folie held in 1995, presented ten (10) authors and about 500 books were sold. Sponsored by Haiti’s oldest newspaper, Le Nouvelliste and Unibank, the goal of the festival is two-fold: to promote Haitian culture through books, and to afford Haitian authors a platform from which they can share and sell their work. The work either has to be about Haiti, or written by a Haitian author in French or Creole. Attracted by rebates (close to 50%), and a wide selection of books, participants of Livres en Folies have the opportunity to increase their libraries at very low prices. They also have the opportunity to meet some of the greats of Haitian literature; Edwige Dan-
Prince, Livres en Folie will have distribution centers in different provinces, in order to make all the books presented at the fair available for purchase. In addition, they can also be ordered online at livresenfolie.com or unibankhaiti.com. Livres en Folie is not just about you and I enjoying a great ambiance, meeting our favorite ticat, the first Haitian-American author to have widespread success for her work in the U.S, was present at last year’s fair. This year, the guest of honor will be famed poet Georges Castera. But perhaps more importantly, the event is the place to discover new authors. For the first time in eighteen years, Livres en Folie will award prizes for “Best New Book.” The goal, according to the organizers, is to encourage literary and scientific writing and to make sure talented new authors are afforded the possibility to market their work. Indeed, in addition to a monetary prize, Le Nouvelliste will be responsible for marketing and promoting the two winners’ books for three months. And, if this one-day book extravaganza isn’t enough, from May 28 to June 10th, there will also be the ‘Quinzaine du Livres’. Based on the theme of books and writing, these two weeks will
Author Edwidge Danticat signs book at Livres en Folie 2011
give individuals the chance to participate in seminars, conferences, workshops, discussions, public trainings, film projections, and photo exhibitions. These activities are held at different venues throughout the capital and include venues such as Fokal and Institut Francais. As for those who are unable to make the journey to Port-au-
writers, and discovering new ones. It is about bringing literature to center stage. Over the years, it has led to the emergence of new publishing companies and new authors. And for book lovers, it is a dream come true. Excited yet? I am. For more information, please visit livresenfolie.com MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 3
Memorable Events
Not Just the Oldest Daily Newspaper, but also a Key Social and Cultural Stakeholder
Ludmillo D. Pierre
By Roxane Kerby
A
s Haitians observed Labor Day on May 1, 2012, Le Nouvelliste, Haiti’s oldest, most circulated and continually published daily newspaper celebrated its 114th anniversary. Founders Guillaume ChÊraquit and Henri Chauvet, must be
4 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
proud of this feat, since they did not want their product to be a fly-by-night politically affiliated paper but rather a long lasting tool that provided the population with objective, hard hitting news, and yet an honest voice. Throughout the years, Le
Nouvelliste, staffed with professional and committed personnel, has accomplished just that: continually presenting the facts in well-written and informative articles. More importantly, the paper has been committed to serving the public by acting as its eyes and ears and ensuring that all aspects of the country are reported and explained. Max E. Chauvet, who took over the helm of the organization as a young college graduate in the early 70’s, initiated changes that rendered the paper more economical by utilizing the tabloid format and implementing new standards, techniques and equipment. He also recognized the importance of supporting and promoting cultural and social initiatives in order to showcase the Haitian culture in its entire splendor. And with the intent to bring about change, in 1995 Le Nouvelliste introduced Livres en Folie. This event, designed to stimulate youth to read more and to bring visibility to young unknown
talented authors, has grown considerably.Additionally, with the support of sponsors, it has been able to break the cycle, it has enabled the authors to publish significant numbers of books and more importantly to make the books affordable to a larger segment. Following the success of Livres en Folie, a similar event was developed to increase the production of music. Musique en Folie afforded young artists throughout the country a platform to showcase and promote their talent. Needless to say that the icons in Haitian konpa graced the stage, attracting a larger crowd year after year. Though this event has not taken place since the 2010 earthquake, the team is hard at work to re-launch a bigger and better Musique en Folie Festival. And yet still in an attempt to reach this young audience, Le Nouvelliste was once again at the forefront and introduced Ticket Magazine in 2002, presenting subjects that en-
tertained and fascinated this target market. Ticket Magazine’s focus is on cultural events, who’s who in the arts, music, fashion, movies, and much more. Ticket Sport was initiated to introduce good athletes to society. In September 2011, the monthly magazine Magic Haiti (which you are reading) was published in order to present a different image of Haiti and promote tourism, especially local tourism. The Magazine has since been exposing many natural sites, artisans, designers, musicians, authors, restaurants, hotels, and individuals that might have otherwise gone unnoticed. “I believe that we must take our role as stakeholders seriously. It is only then that our nation will change,” Chauvet states quite seriously. One can only wonder what the next
DECEMBER 2011
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endeavor will be. One thing is for sure, though: it will bring us one step closer to the Haiti we all envision.
FISHERMAN AT ARcAdIN
coAST (côTE dES
ARcAdINS)
Choix, Conseils, Services, Ceramex c’est la bonne adresse.
PÉTION-VILLE 14, rue Rigaud AÉROPORT Route des Nimes ROUTE DE FRÈRES Building Quincaillerie Totale
ADVANCE
CROIX-DES-BOUQUETS Route de Santo
Tél. : 509-2510-7095 / USA: 305 517 5451 email: info@ceramex.net
www.ceramex.net MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 5
Artmosphere
in
Metal Work Cookie Villard
“I was so excited that that someone as famous and talented as Donna Karan would admire my work,”
6 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
by Kristine Belizaire Photos by
K
arine “Cookie” Villard remembers growing up in a home full of positive creative energy. “The women in my family are very artistic,” she says. “In their own unique ways, they all are passionate about their craft.” Her mother, Mona Roy, is a painter, and both of her sisters are innovative cooks. “Watching them create something magical was the highlight of my youth,” she adds. “I think my creativity and passion for art comes from that.” Villard started designing metal art ten years ago when she sketched a drawing of a
chandelier that she wanted an artisan to create for her house. When a friend saw the design, she asked her to draw two of them for her. Seeing how positive the response was to her work, Villard decided to take a leap of faith and organized an exposition of her metal artwork. This was the beginning
of her success, and business has been growing ever since. She now creates many functional metal art pieces that can be used to add a strong central point in any room of your house. From candle votives and jewelry boxes to chairs and gates, her metal pieces always stand out
for their individuality and vitality. She describes her work as very modern yet classic, which is the style that her customers prefer. One of her most popular and requested pieces (and my personal favorites) are the chandeliers. They are all distinctively made and seem to
set the tone in the house. For example, she designed a coral colored chandelier for a client’s beach house. The brightness of the coral and the design created a casual yet classy atmosphere throughout the home. Over time, she has a built a strong reputation for her work. She has even received orders
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 7
from US designer Donna Karan. “I was so excited that that someone as famous and talented as Donna Karan would admire my work,” says Villard. Many of her designs can even be found at different locations in Port-au-Prince. The chandeliers at Papaye, her sister’s fusion restaurant in PétionVille, display her artistry and expertise. The metal works at the Inn at Villa Bambou are also her creations. Adding metal art to your home can add a significant amount of visual appeal. There are many pieces to choose from, and you can always find something that would add a perfect artistic accent to any room in your home. Not exactly sure of what you are looking for, Villard will give you a consultation. She will suggest pieces that might look great in your house, and give you a written estimate. “Some of my clients trust me completely,” says Villard. “They give me the freedom to pick designs and artwork that 8 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
change their house into a home.” Villard was born in Puerto Rico, but has always identified herself as Haitian. “Both of my parents are from Haiti” she explains, “As I grew up, I always went back and forth between the two countries.” Today, Villard lives permanently in Haiti. The essence of Haiti’s culture is in art. Whether through paintings or jewelry, you can see the tradition and the beauty of the country’s history. It is very common for Haiti’s natural resources to be transformed into beautiful crafts. Karine “Cookie” Villard happens to be one of those people who use the country’s resources to create fine art. Though her career as an artisan happened by chance, Villard is passionate about what she does. “I love to create things and make people happy” she tells me. For more information please contact Cookie Villard at 3721-5820
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 9
Lamanjay
Fourteen Reasons to Love it ! By Farah Doura Photos by Frederick Alexis
The metropolitan, laid-back health oriented menu 1 The 3 allows everyone to enjoy a and Caribbean setup lets light and easy-going lunch with meals properly balanced to keep the indulgence guilt-free.
comes in a vari2 Everything ety of ways. A chicken sand-
wich at Lunch Box is more than just a plain one, you can have it the Bombay (curry), the Santa Fe (Tex-Mex) or the Mr. Moto (teriyaki) way.
10 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
you hop on a stool chair to enjoy a shrimp and mango salad known as “Des Iles”, kick back on the sofa with a “Mousse au Chocolat” or use the Wi-Fi under a parasol.
and jazzy tunes in 4 Light the background are perfect
for lunch-goers wanting to disconnect from the office or turn a Saturday lunch
into a cosmopolitan one with drinks from the bar. Stecher, the hands-on 5 Bianca Chef and owner, understands
that practicality is key. Coming from a family of restaurateurs and having been trained in Switzerland, she’s constantly on the floor helping customers.
menu reads like a culi6 The nary dream for a group of
friends in the mood for different things; it offers a unique twist on international staples, making it versatile and interesting. Choices range from sushi to the pizzas. comes the traditional 7 Sushi way and the Lunch Box
way. You’ll find your basic tuna roll as well as the café’s own specialties like the “Tuna Kamikaze” rolled with avocado and cream
cheese branded with an option of hot sauce.
8 Delivery is Free. lamb burger topped 9 The with a light yogurt sauce and a mint pesto will appeal to meat-lovers; vegans are not forgotten with the marinated tofu rolled or served as a salad.
Conveniently located in the is prepared fresh 11Everything to order. With dressings 14Esplanade Complex where whipped upon request and sushi rolled on demand, customers get more flexibility in tailoring orders to their taste.
did not forget the little 12Bianca ones. A mother of two herself,
stores range from fashion boutiques to spas, a lunch break at the cafe fits well after a massage, mani-pedi or shopping spree.
Lunch Box Café is located at 2, Rue Darguin in Pétion-Ville. Hours of Operation: 10am to 5pm, Monday-Saturday. For more information please call 29 42 31 38 or 44 12 31 38
she understands that Chicken Nuggets and Mac’ and Cheese are a must on the kids menu.
The eco-friendly barn box sushi but time 10 Craving is tight? Fear not, Lunch 13used as packaging goes a Box offers a series of onthe-go prepared rolls. But if you are more flexible, sit back, relax and go for another in-house specialty, the “Zombi” roll made with conch.
long way in a country like Haiti. The owner has seen it recycled as a basket by vendors in the marketplace or turned into craft projects. Many patrons keep theirs for future take outs/deliveries MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 11
Escapade
Bohemian Diversion By Rachele Viard | Photos by Frederick Alexis
A
n oasis where one can truly tune out the “real world” but yet experience the vibrancy of the coastal town of Jacmel is the Cyvadier Plage Hotel. More than just simply a hotel, Cyvadier Plage is a delightful getaway for those who are ready to dive in 12 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
and experience Jacmel and all it has to offer. It’s the perfect place to reconnect with nature, take in the arts, plan your next adventure, or just let the adventurer in you out maybe for the first time. The oldest beach hotel in town that has kept its original name offers various distractions and
countless fun activities right at your fingertips. The possibilities are endless. Whether you are catching up on some light reading, dining at the hotel’s outdoor restaurant or taking a relaxing swim at the beach or pool you are surrounded by a peaceful and
cheerful energy. Speaking with Christophe Lang whose family acquired the hotel in 1994 which he now runs, one can see that he takes pride in making travelers, vacationers and loyal customers stay the best it can be by covering all the bases with careful attention to the minutest detail. The 22-room hotel decorated with elegant wicker and wooden furniture and tropical colors has a very homey feel. Each of the rooms has its very own little balcony where
you can capture beautiful sunrises and romantic sunsets along the beach. Here at the Cyvadier, the rooms provide all the creature comforts guests require with the exception of televisions. It seems as though wherever your room is located on the property you are but a few feet away from the restaurant, bar area as well as the pool. All of which come alive at night with lively music and delightful lighting. The bar and dining area also feature wireless internet
access and the one and only television on the property is used mostly to showcase sporting events. And why
would you bother watching television when you have the chance to sightsee, visit the artistic town of Jacmel, an
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 13
area rich in history with lots of art galleries and shops. The town is a biker’s haven. Lang , a rider himself, says that “cyclists will love this area because they can ride on various terrains and they have access to a multitude of panoramic single tracts in the
14 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
areas surrounding Jacmel. With a number of water sports readily available, with surfing now an option, and with new things burgeoning in this town once referred to as the City of Lights, your days and nights can be filled with excitement.
Now a little more about my favorite aspect of visiting the Cyvadier, the food! The mostly vegetarian and seafood oriented menu is simply divine. The menu was developed by Christophe Lang who actually studied culinary arts and is a chef. He
describes the menu as “Creole cuisine made accessible to those who are unfamiliar with Creole cooking and its spices. The restaurant’s menu consist of dishes such as grilled lobster and poisson gros sel, and from what I know and tasted (trust me, I tried many and I mean many dishes) each is mouthwatering. All the seafood on the menu is caught locally. The Cyvadier ‘s restaurant is a local favorite. Choose to spend time at the Cyvadier Plage Hotel in Jacmel whether it is with that special someone or solo or just to take a short break from the day-to-day hectic city life. Staffed with personnel that is friendly and warm your time there is sure to be enjoyable.
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 15
Artmosphere
“My down to earth attitude comes from waking up to a harsh reality; deal with what you can’t change, but always finish what you have started.”
L’art Hybride / Hybrid Art By Taïna Mayard Photos by Frederick Alexis
16 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
R
alph Allen’s mother, Anna Drouin, was the only survivor in her family. Her brother, a rebel in a
dictatorial government, was ‘eliminated’, along with her two sisters, and parents. The massacre was known as the Jeremian Vespers and oc-
curred in the southern part of Haiti in 1964. In 1965, Anna obtained asylum in the U.S., reluctantly leaving behind her sons Lionel and Ralph,
who stayed in Haiti to finish their high-school studies. Only in 1971, at age 19, did Ralph Allen join his mother in the United States. The first year there, he took an introductory English class where he would spend most of the time sketching his classmates’ portraits, instead of following the course. Un-
covering his student’s secret talent, the English teacher, John Henckey, encouraged him to apply for a scholarship at the National Academy of Design in New York. And this he did. “Winning the scholarship,” he says was a revenge upon misfortune. In a way,
art enabled me to look for the bright side of things when reality seemed too cruel. I was able to express myself through my work.” He obtained a Bachelor’s degree in Fine Arts, specializing in painting, sculpture and graphic design. He collaborated with many renowned artists. One of which was his MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 17
mentor/coach, Hugh Gumpell, who taught him how to express himself by experimenting with art, instead of sticking to the academics. In 1976, Allen received an unexpected visit from the director of the school. She had come to ask him whether he was American or not. The artist, a bit puzzled, replied: ‘No I’m not’. To his surprise, his director persisted: ‘Are you sure?’ This time, Allen, with a more firm and patriotic tone replied:
18 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
‘Yes I’m sure. I’m Haitian.’ It turns out that a jury, looking to award a professional grant to a student of the school, had fallen in love with Allen’s work. But in order to receive it, Allen would have to be an American. Many insisted that he change his nationality, but this immense honor had an opposite effect: it triggered a strong sense of patriotism in the artist which led to his return home to Haiti that same year. “I experienced compassion
from the Americans I met, contrary to those who encountered prejudice. But it was not home. I had to go back home and be part of the change that would eventually come about” he tells me. Back in Haïti, he rapidly became a member of the Board of Administration at Enarts (Ecole Nationale des Arts i.e. The National School of Arts) for two years (from 1996 to 1998). He participated in many exhibitions in the U.S.,
Haïti, Martinique, Guadeloupe, Guyana, and France. His art doesn’t belong to a particular movement. It is of a plural nature. It has often been pinpointed as one that strays too far away from the popular primitive/naïve nature of Haitian art. In the name of his fellow Haitian artists, he frequently replies: “Haiti is not comprised of a naïve culture. It is the fruit of many societies. In the diverse world we live in today, the Creole persona is a veteran. We are not bastards, we are Hybrids. My art reflects the society I live in.” His paintings typically depict the daily life of Haïti at different levels of the social strata. They are typically comprised of vivid colors, highlighting the bright side of life in Haïti. Some others, conversely, are of more personal nature such as the violent paintings of massacres during the dictatorship, exposed at the Musée d’Art Haitien du College St Pierre (Museum of Haitian Art at the St Pierre College) in 1987. His pieces always seem to want to extend out of their frames, revealing the frustrated muralist in him. Luckily, certain circumstances have made it possible for him
“When I paint, time flies. It doesn’t feel like working.”
to express his art at its full size. The results are pieces such as the huge mural at the Little Haiti Cultural Center in Miami and the stunning ironwork he produced for the Saint Joseph Home for boys in Haiti. In an attempt to mainly expand the realm of his masterpieces, Allen decided to open a metal-shop with his brother Lionel and his son Alex. The aforementioned trio now own MetAllen, a metal-shop where they design and create scrupulous iron-finishes for buildings. But most importantly perhaps, Ralph Allen followed in the footsteps of his mentor, became a coach to many and still continues to teach to those who want to learn how to express themselves through art. This includes yours truly: me.
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 19
Why Haiti ?
I left my heart in
Port-Salut
By Alain Menelas | Photos by Walther Bertchi
T
he town of Port-Salut, located about thirtyfive minutes away from Les Cayes, in the South, has become one of the most treasured touristic destinations in Haiti. The beaches there, with their transparent waters and white sand, have charmed many, many visitors. Twenty years ago, the town had only one small hotel; today, it boasts of about five really nice ones. Magic Haiti met with the man who started it all: Christian Barrière. Mr. Barrière, a former member of the French military born in the Southwestern city of Bordeaux, first came to Haiti in 1995. He arrived as a tourist with his wife, landing at the Cap-Haitien International Airport. Not too impressed with the northern city, they ventured to explore other parts of the country. From north to south and east to west, they saw everything the island had to offer. But no place caught their heart more than the remote town of Port-Salut, a calm place with no paved roads linking it to 20 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
other cities, and very few means of communication. They fell in love with the area, realizing how much potential it had to be a main tourism spot, especially for eco-tourism. “What mostly attracted us,” he says, “was the friendliness of the people there.” After his first visit, Mr. Barrière and his wife, Catherine, came back to Haiti every year. A restaurateur with training in hotel management at l’Ecole Hoteliere in France, Mr. Barrière immediately started to make plans to build a hotel in the area. In 1998, they started to rent what is today known as the Hotel du Village, a set of bungalows owned by the Haitian government. Everything had to be restructured and renovated. No effort was spared to make the Hotel du Village a pleasant destination. Located right next to the beach, the grounds are filled with sand and the unstoppable melody of the sea fills one’s ears at every step. Two years later, in 2000, Mr. Barrière and his wife de-
cided to leave their homeland to live permanently in Haiti. When asked why Haiti, he replies with a smile “why not Haiti?” But in truth, Port-Salut represented an opportunity for the humble man, a former founder of a sailboat museum, to focus on his three passions: hotels, food, and the sea. It wasn’t long before work began on another hotel; L’Auberge du Rayon Vert, which opened in 2002. Today, the hotel holds six finished rooms and works are underway to finish twenty more rooms by the end of next year. “The goal is to make people feel as comfortable as possible,” he asserts. One thing worth mentioning is that at l’Auberge du Rayon Vert every single piece of furniture is made in Haiti. Talking with Mr. Barrière, one will quickly recognizes that he is extremely proud of the hotel’s restaurant, which serves an exquisite variety of European and Haitian dishes. The house specialty is the filet de boeuf au poivre. This passion for cooking runs in
Christian’s family; his only son is the head chef at one of the biggest hotels in London. But Christian Barrière is more than a hotel and restaurant owner; he is a pioneer. His dream is to see Port-Salut become a major Caribbean destination. “There are 10 million tourists around us each year and none of them are coming to Port-Salut,” he says. “Soon, they will.” He thinks that an airport with international flights in Les Cayes could greatly boost tourism in not just Port-Salut, but in all of southern Haiti. Though he states, “I believe it is better to start small,” Mr. Barrière’s contributions to the development of tourism in the area is already impressive. Seventeen years ago, he dreamt that the secluded little town of Port-Salut would grow into a tourist destination; today, we can say that he is getting close to achieving that dream, as many discovered or rediscovered the beauty of the region since the very successful National Carnival was held in Les Cayes this past February.
MONDAY LUNCHBOX
Salads, Sandwiches & Sushi 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Open Daily for Lunch L’Esplanade | 2 Rue Darguin, PV lunchboxhaiti@gmail.com 4 412-3138 / 3 761-0012
WEDNESDAY LE COIN DES ARTISTES Dinner with Live Band
6:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m. Daily Lunch Special - 300 Gdes
Open for Lunch & Dinner 59. Rue Panamericaine. PV 3 747 1163
THURSDAY CAFE TERRASSE
FRIDAY KAY ATIZAN
Dinner Troubadour w/ Ti Coca 8:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.
Gdes Daily Lunch Special - 300
Open Daily for Lunch & Dinner 43. Rue Magny. PV 3 723 3571 / 3 452 1772
SATURDAY LE P’TIT CREUX Local Buffet & Live Music
Noon – 4:00 p.m.
Open Daily for Breakfast & Lunch 87, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 3892 / 2942 3893
SUNDAY LA RESERVE Barbecue
1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Lunch (Salad Bar, Grill, Soups) Monday to Friday, Noon - 4:00 p.m.
Open Daily
for Lunch & Dinner 2, Rue Marcel Toureau, Berthé, PV 2 940 1190 - 2 946 1111
SUNDAY CAFÉ DE L’EUROPE Brunch
11:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. Saturday Live Sax Player Friday Tapas Night with Troubadour 17. Rue Mangonès. Berthé. PV 3 406 8525 / 3 464 0468
SUNDAY LE TOIT BLANC
Lamb Couscous
SUNDAY LE FLORVILLE
11:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.
Salad Bar & Dinner
FREE WIFI
Visit Saut d’Eau & have Brunch
Lunch & Dinner Special
Open Daily for Lunch & Dinner 81, Rue Gregoire, PV 2944 1313 / 3415 9184
Brunch
Open Saturdays 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Route du Saut # 22 4 408-0824
Dinner 1:00 p.m. – 6:00 p.m. Featuring Mais Moulin
Djon djon
Open Daily for Lunch & Dinner Kenscoff 3551 3535 / 3449 6161
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 23
Haiti on my Mind
H A I T I ’ S A M B A S S A D O R TO H O L L Y W O O D By Angela Galbreath | Photos by Ludmillo D. Pierre and Contributors
nder a strobe light in a Paris nightclub, Jimmy Jean Louis was opening his heart to the dance floor when a Coca-Cola representative sought him out to be in an advertisement. That gig in 1991 was to be the first of many as an actor/model. Jimmy was born in PétionVille in 1968. He left his home at the age of twelve to join his mother in Paris. Uprooted and an adolescent, Jimmy found his footing in France through sport and eventually dance. The first commercial he did for Coca-Cola connected Jimmy’s passion for performance with a paycheck. He went on to dance
U
24 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
in a music theater in Spain. He had a successful career as an international model and moved to Los Angeles in 1998 to pursue a career in acting. The internationally famed star is mostly well known for his role as “The Haitian” on NBC’s hit TV show, Heroes. It was a break out role, which connected Jimmy’s personal identity with a character. “Haiti is the only place that I feel fully myself,” he said. “I don’t have to adapt to language or culture, and I do not have to think before I speak. It’s precious to me.” In Hollywood, Jimmy plays on a celebrity soccer team called Hollywood United. “Sports are a great unifier,” he acknowledges. In 2008, he created an
organization called, “Hollywood Unites for Haiti” (HUFH) to be a means of enduring positive change in Haiti. Members of his soccer team and other friends fully supported a project to build an elementary school; and they now have plans to build a thirty-six acre sports complex in Haiti. In April of this year Jimmy and his companions could be seen scouring the streets of Pétion-Ville on foot looking for soccer balls to buy and give away. “The joy in the kids’ faces was incredible as they immediately ran off to play!” he reminisces with an exuberant grin. Jimmy and his companions were visiting the St. Therese soccer field when they
encountered an outspoken local resident named Peterson Domerçant. Peterson recognized Jimmy from the film, Tears of the Sun, in which Jimmy acted alongside Bruce Willis. Out of curiosity Peterson inquired about the celebrity’s charitable activities in Haiti. “Come see it for yourself!” challenged Rachid Dhibou, one of Jimmy’s engaging friends. Peterson agreed to accompany the group to visit the school built by Hollywood Unites for Haiti the following morning. Up, up, up, the group traveled on a gravel road to reach the community of Deleard. Most of the families in the area cultivate the land to sustain themselves. The school built by HUFH is the only school in the area that takes place within a walled structure. A solar panel with an attached light keeps watch over the grounds of the school. It has become a gathering place for the community in the evenings to charge cell phones and tell jokes. “Jimmy is doing something tangible for our country,” remarked Peterson looking at school. “The seventy-five kids in this school will become educated members of society.”
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 25
Pierre Luckner who teaches first grade stated, “The children just learn better in a secure environment.” Recognizing that hungry children do not learn as well and are unable to concentrate to their full potential, a cafeteria was recently added
26 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
to the school. Students’ parents carried stones and assisted in the construction of the cafeteria. And now every student receives a hot meal at 10:00 am each day. During the visit, Jimmy was lured into the kitchen by the wafting aromas of garlic
and onions. The ladies cooking offered Jimmy a bite of sausage. As Jimmy is a vegetarian, he grabbed a spoon and helped himself to a mouthful of rice and beans. “Mmm tasty!” he exclaims as the women beamed. Jonas Petit grew up with
Jimmy in Pétion-Ville and also in Paris. As the director of Hollywood Unites for Haiti, Jonas proposed his parents’ hometown as an appropriate site for the school. His parents donated the land on which the school is built. Jonas went to greet a
Save more, do more neighbor who was weeding his corn field alone with a curved machete. “Now that we have the school, my four kids are getting an education. That is more important than helping me in the field,” said Mr. Fenel to Jonas in between machete strokes. On their way back to Portau-Prince, the group paused for Jimmy to admire a river. Suddenly he dips his head in the water and emerges laughing. “I am constantly learning about Haiti’s potential,” muses the talented actor. “There are so many natural resources all over the country. I see talent everywhere. We need ways to nurture and canalize that tal-
ent. I visited the Rex Theatre and I was so devastated to see what it has become. It used to be a cultural pillar.” Jimmy was elated when he was cast in his latest role as the hero of Haiti’s independence Touissant L’Ouverture. He hopes that the film, shot for French television, will reignite a fire of national pride. It seems that it will have that impact based on the pre-screening that was held on April 14th at the Karibe Convention Center. The movie will officially be released in Haiti in the month of June. “The film shows how we won our freedom, a side of Haiti that is not often shown,” MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 27
he explains. “I hope that it will reconnect Haitians with our remarkable history and unite Haitians as we were united when we achieved our freedom.” Jimmy travels around the world because of his work, but he somehow always finds a way to spend quality time in his homeland of which he is immensely proud. As a matter of fact he and Haitian singer Belo spent a week in a town south of Port-au-Prince with their families a couple of years ago. “It was very nice, the beach, the food, the hospitality, all key elements for a great family vacation. My children know konpa, they know the words to all of Belo’s songs and they also know their Haitian heritage, that is important to me,” he says.
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10, RUE GOULARD, PLACE BOYER, PÉTION-VILLE. PHONE : 3 460-3326 28 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
Escapade
Hotel Villa Ban-Yen
A
By Farah Doura | Photos by Patrice Douge
bout thirty miles west of Port-au-Prince on Route Nationale #2, you make a left turn at the bottom of a hill called Morne Tapion, and there the path to Villa Ban-Yen begins. A scenic three-mile uphill ride on a paved road displays sporadic views of Grand-Go창ve on one side, and Petit-Go창ve on the other. At 650 meters in altitude, you reach the community of Vallue, where the Hotel Villa Ban-Yen is located. The surroundings immediately bring to mind what Haiti is all 30 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
about: sweet sounds of birds, a multitude of fruit trees, perfect temperature, and fertile soil. All of these are signs of prosperity. Many trees on the property are labeled with their names. The Saman tree occupies the space at the entrance of the Villa. More so than ever, the mind needs rest and the body needs to be rejuvenated and the refuge that is Villa Ban-Yen can accommodate just that. The name of the locality, Ban-Yen, also means abundance in old Creole. It is a very appropriate title and is even proven true
while traveling through the wealth of vegetation. In 1997, to lodge an American woman studying farming life in the area, the owner Mr. Abner Septembre offered to build two rooms on his property. Some years later, to accommodate out-of-towners and more students, two more rooms were added. Over the years, there seemed to always be a reason to add another couple of rooms until Villa Ban-Yen grew into a 17-room chalet in 2002. When Mr. Septembre recognized that eco-tourism would benefit the community, Villa Ban-Yen became an official hotel. Today, the Villa offers single and double rooms as well as suites. These spacious rooms are set up with furniture chosen to be in harmony with nature, they have windows opening to a picturesque view of the landscape that offers stimulating mountain air. “It’s an eco-mountain concept where priority is given to ecological values,” shares the owner. Continental breakfast is complementary and, at the choice of a guest, other preferences can be accommodated. Basic amenities such as towels, soap, and drinking water are available and those needing to “log on” can do so with a Wi-Fi service. The hotel can host retreats, seminars, receptions, honeymoons, and many more activities. The choice of staying at the Villa becomes a responsible one because the money you spend has multiplier effect as it is invested in the local peasant activities. Mr. Septembre not only runs the place, but he is also the founding member of the APV (Association des Paysans de Vallue, The Peasant Association of Vallue). Whether it
is the fruit preserves, the hot cocoa prepared the old-fashioned way, or the grapefruit liqueur offered on the menu, all are prepared by the local population. “It’s alternative tourism,” states the brochure. The hotel houses a center for research and training in different agricultural professions. Traditions and customs of the region become an important part of the patron’s experience, with the potage flavored in the manner of the peasant, the entertainment is filled with nights of
storytelling and excursions of many types to further connect with the community. Dance, theater, and troubadour are also on the list of fun things to experience. One simple suggestion from the Association is to please plant a tree before you leave (you can find all the seeds needed at the local tree nursery). Things at Villa Ban-Yen are not complicated; you instantly feel at home for various reasons, but the real one, is that the staff treats you as though you were a
guest in their home. They seem to know nothing but kindness when company is over. It doesn’t appear like anyone worries up here, probably because of all that fresh air. Everything moves to the rhythm of nature. And it really is that kind of place, when you make that right turn to go back to town, it never leaves you. For more information, please email the hotel at hotelvillabanyen@yahoo.com website address : www.vallue.org or call (509) 3420 2091 / 2941 2091
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 31
Lamanjay
A Twelve Star Café
in the Heart of Pétion-Ville
Café de l’Europe
By Angela Galbreath | Photos by Ludmillo Pierre
“
We are the merchants of dreams,” says head chef at Café de l’Europe, Mi-Sol Chevallier. Indeed, Mi-Sol’s passion en flambé for her trade often manifests in dreams while she sleeps. She is known to wake up in the middle of the night and run to the kitchen to test out flavor combinations. Mi Sol’s dishes embody a fearless authenticity merging her 32 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
years of experience and classical chef training. She began cooking at the age of seven in her mother’s kitchen in Gonaives, a city in the north of Port-au-Prince. Years later, she went to live with her cousin, renowned Miami storyteller and accomplished cook, Liliane Nerette Louis, who was running a cooking school out of her home. From there, she gained a job
as a private chef in Manhattan at the young age of 22, honing and developing her skills. She then expanded her tastes on the African continent where she lived for more than a decade, creating and running catering businesses in Mauritania and Senegal. It was in her fifties that Mi-Sol decided to formalize her vocation with renowned
chef, Alain Ducasse at Alain Ducasse Formation (ADF) in Paris. She went on to complete courses at the Ecole Ritz Escoffier and Lenôtre, also both in the French capital. She returned to Haiti eager to share what she had learned. Unlike some masters of the craft of cuisine, Mi Sol welcomes many cooks in her kitchen at Café de l’Europe. Last December, Christian Forais of Escoffier offered seminars at the restaurant. On the wall of the kitchen is the Haitian national motto, “L’union fait la force.” One of Mi-Sol’s only rules for collaborators in the kitchen: No perfume! The
aroma of the perfume can prevent chefs from realizing the precise flavors they wish to achieve. Souris d’agneau is the most popular item on the menu. A tender cut of lamb roasted on the bone until the meat melts in your mouth, served with a tower of vegetables and choice of rice or potatoes. The house wine expert suggests pairing the plate with a glass of a 2005 Chateau Haut Mazieres. Finish it off with her famous ‘no cheating’ Mousse au Chocolat. The only ingredients are cocoa, eggs, and sugar. Italian chef, Gianfranco Guiliani also found a home at Café de l’Europe, providing delectable made-from-scratch pastas. Spin-
ach, whole wheat, and classic varieties of fettuccini and ravioli are crafted by his expert hands and mixed with mouthwatering sauces. Thirteen of his creations are available and diners will most likely encounter the fun chef, known for strolling the venue while joking with staff and guests. Restaurantmanager,Gwendolyn Moyse, organizes other weekly attractions at the Café. Each Friday, the restaurant features a delightful troubadour band on its outside terrace. The pool has been covered to create more space for dancing and to accommodate large parties. The Café frequently hosts weddings of up to 200 guests. Saturday night is Jazz Night and every Sunday there’s an extensive buffet from 12:30 to 3:30pm showcasing dishes such as the eye-catching terrine de fruits de mer
made with local shrimp, conch and lobster. Like the excellent chocolate mousse, Mi-Sol says the ingredients of an excellent chef are simple, “Good hands and a lot of heart.” She is coaching the National team of chefs to compete in the prestigious “Taste of the Caribbean” competition that will take place in Miami at the end of June. In the mean time, aspirants to the team will meet weekly at Café de l’Europe to train, and curious gourmands may taste the team’s progress every Monday night there. Mi-Sol and several others of the immediate Café de l’Europe family live in the two-story house above the restaurant. It is perhaps for that reason that the Café shines with familial hospitality. Seven nights a week, the friendly professional staff treats each guest like a regular - of course many guests do become regulars after one or two visits. The exquisite cuisine and easy atmosphere make it a weekly stop for many who enjoy dream quality fine dining without affectation. Café de l’Europe is located at 17 Rue Mangonès, Berthe, Pétion-Ville. For Reservations please call 3464-0468 or visit www.cafedeleurope.com
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 33
Heartbeat
&Wanga Nègès By Maureen Boyer | Photos by Frederick Alexis 34 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
T
woubadou is a purely unplugged, acoustic sound, usually played with banjos, guitars, and percussion. In Haiti, it means fun, happiness, a certain joie de vivre. You will find bands playing this type of
music all over, by the beach, at hotels, at private parties, and restaurants. Though it became a lot more popular and widespread when Konpa bands started releasing Twoubadou versions of their songs in the late 1990s, Ti Coca, a performer from a very early age, remains one of the oldest and most recognizable names in this genre. David Metellus (aka Ti Coca) was born in Port-dePaix, in the North of Haiti. Often singing for his family and people in the neighborhood, he mastered the art of entertainment early on. At the young age of 14, he was known for his flare and swagger, and had already been invited to sing with bands or alone at parties. “I loved singing and pleasing the crowd,” he says. So much so that he moved to Port-au-Prince to pursue his singing career. The name, Ti Coca, came from his small figure being compared to a bottle of Coca-Cola. Laughing, he explains: “On the radio once, a host said “Ti Coca! You’re so short they should call you Ti Coca!” And the name stuck. “Now even at the dry cleaners, if I don’t use ‘Ti Coca’ they won’t give me my clothes.” He officially established the group Ti Coca & Wanga Nègès in 1976. “Wanga nègès is a type of hummingbird,” he says. “I chose this name to represent how far I wanted to go with the band, and because it is a sign of love.” Indeed, the band likes to evoke love while performing to its largely non-Creole speaking audience. MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 35
They not only play Twoubadou, they also play traditional folklore and voodoo music. Sometimes they transform traditional songs into Twoubadou rhythms. These rhythms have taken them all over the world in the Americas, Europe, and Africa and have made them an icon in Haitian music. The singer jokes that he has no more pages on his passport. Although too humble to admit it, he has gone from a simple teenager in Port-de-Paix to an established and internationally known musician. The band often performs in different global music festivals; last year, they were guests of honor at the famous New Orleans Jazz Festival, which attracts thousands of people every year. They have also released two albums, including the internationally praised Colibri. They are now working on an album to be released before the end of this year. “We are very excited about it,” Ti Coca tells me. It would mean a lot to them to become as established in Haiti as they are abroad. To accomplish this goal, they are planning to collaborate with the newest generation of music-makers in Haiti. 36 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
As a group, Ti Coca & Wanga Nègès lived through a lot, including the death of original members, and the loss of their homes in the earthquake of January 12th, 2010. Even though Ti Coca is the lead singer of the band, one can feel that it’s not only about him; there is a sense of fraternity and solidarity amongst the members, three of which have been with the group since the beginning, and three newer ones who replaced those that passed away. Thanks in a large part to Ti Coca’s enthusiasm and charisma, the band has been able to stay strong, and continue to produce quality music, as well as making the world fall in love with their sounds. If you would like to get in contact with Ti Coca & Wanga Nègès, please call their manager Wilfrid at 3445-7843
www.magichaiti.com
Words in Print
“Since the impulse to write is greater than me, stronger than physical or mental exhaustion, I find myself persevering and experiencing moments of genuine fulfillment and happiness.”
A Conversation with
Yanick Lahens
By Nastasia Boulos | Photos by Frederick Alexis Yanick Lahens is an award-winning writer, teacher, and cultural and social activist, born in Port-auPrince on December 22nd, 1953. She studied Literature at the Sorbonne in Paris, then returned to Haiti, where she taught at the state-run Ecole Normale Superieure (Universite d’Etat) until 1995. She later worked for the Ministry of Culture (between 1996 and 1997). She is a founding member of the Haitian Writers Union and regularly writes for cultural journals in Haiti and the Antilles, including “Chemins critiques,” “Cultura” and “Boutures.” In 1994, she published her first collection of short stories, “Tante Résia et les Dieux.” Since then, she has published numerous short stories, two novels and many essays. Her 2008 novel “La Couleur de l’Aube” won Prix du Livre RFO and Prix Millepages, both French Literary prizes. In an exclusive interview with Magic Haiti, Yanick discusses literature and Haiti. M.H: Each writer has a particular way of working, day-to-day. Tell us a bit about what your writing process is like. Y.L: Usually when I’m about to start to work on a book, I follow my intuition and am guided by a series of questions that I have, obsessions even. But once the process has started, I often experience a lot of doubt. Sometimes I am even inclined to stop. But since the desire/impulse to write is greater than me, stronger than physical or mental exhaustion, I find myself 38 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
persevering and experiencing moments of genuine fulfillment and happiness. It’s really a privilege to be able to create a world of your own and to take the risk of sharing it with others. That said, the text often has to be snatched from my hands, because I can never stop going back to it; I am never completely satisfied with it. M.H: Who is your favorite author? Y.L: I don’t have one favorite author, but many. Honoré de Balzac, because he is both a model and an anti model that
his contemporaries wanted to reject, but who has been relevant for two centuries now. Marguerite Duras is a major female literary figure. She has an exceptional way of detailing feelings, even when they are ambiguous. No one is better at looking at their own demons in the face. There is also Aimé Cesaire who is, to me, a monument. He was able to be both a writer and a politician, and still stayed humble until the end. That’s rare. There’s also Jacques Roumain, Jacques Stéphen Alexis, and of
course Marie Chauvet. Chauvet bothered both the right and the left, because she dared to go beyond political and social clichés. There is also Lawrence Durrell, who wrote four novels that make up “The Alexandria Quartet.” A real masterpiece. And of course I can’t forget Antigone, by Sophocles. And two poets, Rene Char and Paul Eluard. M.H: Haiti serves as the background for most of your stories. What does Haiti represent to you, on a more personal level? Y.L: Haiti is, above all, the place that elicits the strongest emotions within me. She is also, to me, a significant center because it is here that one of the three greatest revolutions
of the modern world took place (after the United States in 1776 and France in 1789). And today, I wouldn’t want her to be reduced to a nightmare or a post-card. Doing this would be to ignore her reality, her strength, her true beauty. To avoid this, we will have to change the lives of a majority of the men and women here that deserve more than they currently have. M.H: And Haitian literature on a broader scale? How do you think it’s faring? Y.L: Given the conditions of the literary institution, namely schools, universities, and publishing etc., it’s going very well. I say this often but it is one of the great paradoxes of this country. Literature is still
one of the areas where we are equal to other nations. One of the areas where we can still keep our head held up high. Marvin Victor, 30-year old author of the [award-winning] novel “Corps Meles” is an example of this energy / vitality. Still, let’s not confuse quantity and quality. M.H: The first book you published was a series of essays entitled “L’exil entre l’ancrage et la fuite: l’écrivain haïtien,” which discusses exile as it relates to the Haitian writer. What inspired you to write it? Y.L: Here, I’m not talking about geographic exile. In countries like Haiti, where there is a culture of oral storytelling, the writer is confronted with a sort of‘writing exile.’They are also faced with a ‘linguistic exile’, whether they write in French or
Creole, since those who will be reading their works represent a tiny percentage of the population and will be for the most part educated in French. And then, on a broader level, there is a social and cultural exile in relation to a majority of the people here. But of course, this is not a reason not to write. M.H: And finally, what advice can you give to young writers? Y.L: I’d tell them not to be afraid of not being liked, or of being alone. It’s okay to demand a lot from yourself. I’d also suggest that they read a lot in order to be able to put things in perspective and to grow, while still remaining humble. Always keep persevering.
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 39
Postcard in Motion
Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre
Cultural Pillar with a Proud Past By Maureen Boyer | Photos by Ludmillo Pierre
I
nternationally acclaimed Haitian bands and artists and famous foreign singers hold concerts there every month. Immense art fairs, book fairs, and festivals take place on the lawn each year. It’s hard to imagine, that what is now the Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre (Historical Sugar Cane Park) in Port-au-Prince, was, during different periods in history, a major center for sugar production in Haiti.
Indeed, between 1771 and 1803, the property was a sugar plantation complex called Chateaublond, belonging to a French colonist named Louis de Taveau de Chambrun de Chateaublond. At that time, the island was one of the biggest exporters of sugar in the Caribbean. With thousands of plantations, Haiti produced about 40% of the sugar for France and Great Britain. Sugar con-
tinued to be its most valuable asset long after it gained its independence and well into the second half of the 20th century. After the independence, the property was given to general Lerebours of the Haitian army by former president Alexandre PÊtion. In 1900, Tancrede August (President of Haiti between 1912 and until his death in 1913), gained ownership of the property. He wisely turned it into a sugar factory, which ran until 1925. Since then, the property has remained in the hands of the Auguste family. In 2002, part of the land was donated to the Fondation Françoise Canez Auguste, a foundation named
after a member of the Auguste family who died at the young age of 18. It was important to the foundation that the now green lush park, maintained and captured the essence of the history of the former plantation. In 2004, the Parc Historique de la Canne a Sucre opened its doors to the public with the inclusion of a small museum containing different pre-colonial and colonial artifacts. Walking around, one can find many objects and tools used to make sugar from the colonial times throughout the 1900s. There’s a steam mill and a water mill that still function with the help of the local river. There is an elaborate model and recreation of Tancrede Au-
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 41
guste’s sugar cane factory. But the biggest historical attraction is definitely the remains of one of the very first steam trains used to transport the sugar cane to the factories in the late 1800s. But even more than that, the park boasts one of the most impressive outdoor stadiums in Haiti. In addition to local cultural events, it is used for some of the biggest concerts the country has yet to see. Popular international acts such as Alpha Blondy, Corneille, Jed Levy Quartet, Kassav, and Gyptian have graced its stage. The former sugar cane plantation also welcomes the International Jazz Festival, which attracts dozens of international jazz groups and concertgoers from around the country (and from all around the world). The biggest local acts, including Belo, J-Perry, Carimi and Buyu Ambroise routinely hold sold-out concerts there. Let’s not forget the annual art fairs, agricultural fairs and book fairs that all happen on the wide green lawn. It is, without a doubt, the epicenter of major cultural events happening in Haiti. The park also houses one of the best 42 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
restaurants in the country, le Relais du Chateaublond, where you can find appetizing Haitian food and drinks. Through Haiti’s tumultuous history, from the colonial era to the present, the park has managed to stay relevant by transforming and adapting to the times. Indeed, it is both a reminder of Haiti’s rich sweet past and the embodiment of Haiti’s rich cultural present and future. It is definitely a “mustsee” on your list of places to visit on this beautiful island. The Parc Historique de la Canne a Sucre is located at #48, Boulevard 15 Octobre, Route de Tabarre. For more information visit www.parchistorique.ht
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5 Coins
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Fabrizio
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Café Com' Ça
Intrigue
Café de l'Europe
French Cuisine 17. Rue Mangonès. Berthé, PV 3 406 8525 / 3 464 0468 / 3 702 5591
Café Terrasse
Fusion 81, Rue Grégoire, PV 2 944-1313
Celeri Rouge
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Chez Wou
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Le Toit Blanc
Fusion Route du Saut # 22 4408 0824
Le Villate
12 Rue Villate, PV levillate@gmail.com 3400 1212 / 3 402 1212
Les 3 Decks - ATH Fusion 3 bis, Fermathe 54, 3418 8511 / 3462 6201
Kay Atizan
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L'Olivier
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La Plantation
Chicken Fiesta
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Citronelle
Le Paris St Tropez
Angle Rues Faubert & Ogé, 3736 4166
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Chinese Cuisine Place Boyer, PV 3777 6625 / 3777 6626 American and Chinese Cuisine 124. Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2813 9866
Le Christo Villa Russo
Buffet Rue Roumain off Tabarre Italian Cuisine same yard as Maison Handal across Choucoune Plaza, Angle des Rues Parc Canne a Sucre. Lamarre et Chavannes, PV Email: Ledailycafe@gmail.com 2813 0445 3411 5274
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La Table de Cauis
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MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 43
Les Délices Burger
Rebo Expresso
Les Jardins de Gérard
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Look-Nun's Thai Restaurant
The Bookstore Cafe & Wine Bar
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Mozaik
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Tiffany Restaurant
Haitian Cuisine Boulevard Harry Truman, Bicentenaire
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Steakhouse 39, Rue Rigaud, PV mrgrillsteakhouse@live.com + 509 3114 2524 / 3620 4954
Muncheez
Fast Food 2. Rue Rebecca, PV 3713 1393 / 2942 1392
O Brasileiro Social Club Fusion 103, Rue Louverture, PV 3813 1050
Océane Bar & Grill
Haitian Cuisine 3 bis. Rue Derenoncourt, PV 2940 2449
Papaye
Fusion 48. Rue Métellus, PV 3558 2707 / 3771 3678
Pizza Garden
Italian Cuisine 36, Rue Chavannes, PV 2 813 2100 / 2 813 2200
Presse Café
Haitian Cuisine 28, Rue Rigaud, PV 3701 0092
Quartier Latin
Fusion 10, Rue Goulard Place Boyer, PV 3460 3326 / 3445 3325
44 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
www.magichaiti.com
travel companion Hôtel du Village
(Port Salut) portsaluthotelduvillage@yahoo.fr +509 3713- 9035
Auberge du Rayon Vert
Côte Atlantique Hostellerie du Roi Christophe-ATH (Cap Haitien) hotroi24@yahoo.com 3 687 8915
Résidence Royale-ATH
Côte Caraïbe Cap Lamandou
(Jacmel) +509 2941-4000 +509 3720-1892 3920-9135 / 3720-1436 caplamandouhotel@yahoo.fr
(Cap Haitien) golfromes@hotmail.com +509 3602-6676 2942- 0540 / 2813- 7959
Hôtel Villa Ban Yen
Hôtel Mont Joli-ATH
Auberge du Mont Saint Jean
(Cap Haitien) hotelmontjoli@gmail.com +509 2943-1110 / 2942-6975
Auberge du Picolet-ATH (Cap Haitien) auberge.picolet@gmail.com + 509 2945- 5595 3438-6357
Hôtel Beaux Rivages-ATH (Cap Haitien) beaurivagehotel@yahoo.fr +509 2262-3114 / 3682-5583
Cormier Plage-ATH cormier@hughes.net +509 3702-0210 3804- 6673 / 3556- 1549
(Petit-Goâve-Vallue) absept60@yahoo.fr +509 3420-2091 / 3941-2091
(Vallée de Jacmel) aubergesaintjean@yahoo.com +509 3702-0510 3707-0605 / 3401-1789
L’Amitié Guest House :
(Ti Mouillage, Cayes Jacmel) (509) 2942-7156 / 3417-7582
Hotel Florita
(Historic District of Jacmel) +509 3785-5154 / 2274-2015 info@hotelflorita.com www.hotelflorita.com
Hotel l'Ermitage de Pandiassou-ATH
(Hinche) 3472 -5934 / 3474-1599 3741-8753 lermitagedepandiassou@yahoo. com
Hotel Maguana (Hinche) 2277-0528
Wozo Plaza
(Mirebalais) 3455-7730/ 2942-1256 wozoplazahotel@yahoo.fr
ouangabay@hotmail.com +509 3756- 5212 3932-5810
(Port Salut) aubergedurayonvert@yahoo.fr www.aubergedurayonvert.com +509 3713-9035 / 3779- 1728
Dan’s creek
(Port Salut) danscreekhotel@gmail.com www.danscreekhotel.com +509 3614-8143 / 3664- 0404
Relais du Boucanier
(Port Salut) lerelaisduboucanier@hotmail.com www.leboukanier.com +509 3558- 1806 / 3720-1144 3702- 1066 / 3554-1806
Auberge du canal d’Avezac Levy (Camp Perrin) +509 3739-2800
Le Recul
(Camp Perrin) valnuma@yahoo.fr +509 3454-0027 / 3727-3589
Aldy Hôtel- ATH
(Aquin) nancyecomeau@yahoo.fr +509 3458-2566 / 3741-0532
Port-au-Prince Coconut Villa-ATH
3, Rue Berthold, Delmas 19 3 179 3752 / 2 510 4901 3 556 1549 coconutvilla19@aol.com
El Rancho-ATH
5, rue Jose Marti, Avenue des Hôtels, PV 2 944 0707
Habitation Hatt-ATH
sachasaieh@hotmail.com + 509 2510-2635 / 2940-0135
Hôtel Le Jardin-ATH
9, Imp Hérard, Delmas 75 lejardinauberge@yahoo.fr +509 2813-8008, +509 3486-6966
Ibo Lélé-ATH
La Colline Enchantée
elsabaussan@yahoo.com, jvinchy@yahoo.fr +509 2514- 0166 2940- 8503 / 2940- 8504
Cyvadier Plage
Delmas 53 # 6 f1berthold@yahoo.com +509-2943-0470
(Marigot- Jacmel) lacollineenchantee@gmail.com +509 3703-0448 / 3701-96 97 (Cyvadier- Jacmel) hotelcyvadier@hughes.net +509 3844-8264 3482-2585 / 3844- 8265
Centre
Ouanga Bay
Abakabay
(Ile a Vache) abakabay@hotmail.com +509 3721-3691 / 3683- 6253 www.abakabay.com
Port Morgan-ATH
(Ile a Vache) portmorgan@hughes.net, www. port-morgan.com +509 3921-0000 3922-0001 / 3663-5154
Manolo Inn
(Petite Rivière de Nippes) lemanoloinn@mac.com +509 3461-7108 3768-2059 / 3752- 3838 3727- 0201
Ideal Villa Hôtel-ATH
Côte des Arcadins
Karibe Hôtel-ATH
kalikobeachclub@hotmail.com +509 2940 4609 / 4640 2223
info@karibehotel.com 2812- 7000 3701-1138 / 3701- 1140 www.karibehotel.com
Wahoo Bay-ATH
Kinam Hôtel-ATH
Kaliko-ATH
wahoo@dadesky.com +509 3735- 2536/ 3735-2831
Moulin sur Mer-ATH info@moulinsurmer.com + 509 3701- 1918 2813- 1042 / 3702- 1918
Club Indigo- ATH
contact@clubindigo.net, reservations@clubindigo.net + 509 3651-1000 3650-1000 / 3441-1000
Xaragua Hôtel- ATH
lexaraguahotel@yahoo.fr +509 2510-9559 / 3795- 5983
info@hotelkinam.com , reservation@hotelkinam.com +509 2944- 6000 / 2945- 6000 /2945- 6001 / 2511- 4400 ww.hotelkinam.com
Kingdom Hotel
Tabarre 36 19, Rue Sol Solon 3 455-7822 / 2 943-2385 1 407-792-0738
La Réserve Guest House-ATH
+509 3452-3065 / 3510- 5026 3510- 4678 / 3940- 0182
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 45
Le Montcel-ATH
(Kenscoff- Belot) montcel@aol.com/ www.montcelhaiti.com +509 3701-4777 3701-1744 / 3702-7202
Le Ritz-ATH
apartement@hotelkinam.com catering@hotelkinam.com +509 2943- 0303
Le Plaza-ATH
info@plazahaiti.com, reservations@plazahaiti.com +509 2814 6000 www.plazahaiti.com
Montana Suite Horizon-ATH Rue F. Cardozo +509 3880 6610
Palms Résidence
palm.events@gmail.com +509 3706-7342 3454-0053
Paradis des Receptions & Hotel Frere 29 2 940-6624
Prince Hôtel--ATH
princehotelha@yahoo.com +509 2517- 0597 3791- 1549/ 2944- 0422
46 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
Servotel
www.servotelhaiti.com info@servotelhaiti.com +509 2812-7500
The Inn at Villa Bambou Port-au-Prince +509 2 813-1724 www.villabambouhaiti.com
Art Galleries Collection Flamboyant Galerie d’Art 9 Rue Darguin¸PV Mimv54@yahoo.com.mx 3 909-9231 / 3 555-9398
The Lodge-ATH
Expressions Art Gallery
The Palm Inn Hotel
Festival Arts
Furcy +509 2510 9870 3458 5968
Delmas 31 3, Rue Hatte 3 2 513-4810 / 2 519-0700 www.palminnhotel.net
Villa Créole--ATH
55, Rue Metellus, PV 2 256-3471 / 3 558-7584 admin@expressionsgaleriedart.com www.expressionsgaleriedart.com 43, Rue Magny, PV 3 551-7311 / 3 401-3171 festivalhaiti@yahoo.fr
Galerie Marassa-ATH
villacreol@aol.com +509 2941- 1570 / 2941- 1571 2941- 0965 / 2941- 1040
17, Rue Lamarre, PV 3 558-8484 / 4 739-2923 galeriemarassa@yahoo.com www.galeriemarassa.com
Villa Ban-Yen
Galerie Monnin-ATH
Value (between Grand Goave & Petit Goave) hotelvillabanyen@yahoo.com +509 3420-2091/2941-2091
Visa Lodge-ATH
services@visalodge.com +509 2813- 0777 / 2510- 3424 www.visalodge.com
19, Rue Lamarre, PV 2 257-4430 / 3 680-3240 galeriemonnin@galeriemonnin.com www.galeriemonnin.com
Galerie Nader
50, Rue Grégoire, PV 2 257-0855 / 3 709-0222 galerienader@hotmail.com www.galerienader.com
L’Atelier Boutique Fondation Theard Fermathe 59 2 513-9874
Les Ateliers Jerôme
68, Angle des Rues Rebecca & Lamarre, PV 2 513-5362 / 3 705-6825 lesateliersjerome@yahoo.fr www.lesateliersjerome.com
Receptive Operators Agence Citadelle American Express Travel - ATH info@agencecitadelle.com +509 2940 5900 / 3445 5900 www.agencecitadelle.com
Uniglobe - ATH
uniglobe@haine.net +509 2941 0742
Voyages Lumière - ATH
voyageslumierehaiti@gmail.com + 509 3607 1321 www.voyageslumiere.com
Voyages Plus Cap-ATH vpcap1@gmail.com +509 3443 0823 / 2940 0484
Car Rental Avis
20, Rue Mais Gaté, Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2229 6399/ 2941 5555
Budget Rent-a-Car
Angle Rue Léonard & Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1094 / 3856 4988
Dollar Rent-a-Car
Blvd Toussaint Louverture, Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1800 / 3724 0950
Europcar
13, Blvd Jean-Jacques Dessalines, PAP + 509 2518 5555 / 2518 5556
Air Canada
+509 2810 5857 www.aircanada.com
Agence Citadelle – ATH
Capital Coach Lines
American Airlines
Chatelain Tours – ATH
Caribe Tours
Francheco Agence de Voyage – ATH
Terra Bus
+ 509 3115 5000 www.airfrance.com +509 2229 6000 www.aa.com
Continental Airlines www.continental.com
Copa Air
+509 2940 2326 / 29402327 www.copaair.com
Delta Airlines- ATH
+509 2943 3582/2816 1666
Insel Air International- ATH
Hertz
Secom
+509-3791-9209 www.mafhaiti.org
564, Route de Delmas + 509 2942 2940 / 2942 2941
Airlines Aerolineas Mas
+ 509 3704 4560 www.aerolineasmas.com
Air Caraïbes - ATH +509 2813 1037 www.aircaraibes.com
Transborder Bus Lines
Air France - ATH
+509 2813 0403 www.fly-inselair.com
Route de l’Aéroport + 509 3779 0700 / 2816 0700
Travel Agencies info@agencecitadelle.com +509 2940 5900 / 3445-5900
chatelaintours@hotmail.com +509 3701-4570
franchecoav@hotmail.com +509 2940 1168 Goeland Voyages – ATH goelandvoyages@yahoo.com +509-2511 3883
Harmony Tours & Travel Agency – ATH harmony@harmony-tta.com +509 2813-0533
Mission Aviation Fellowship
Multivision Agence de voyage – ATH
SALSA d’Haiti
Napolitano Travel Service
Toussaint Louverture Int’l airport +509-2813-1222
Spirit Airlines
+ 509 2940 4421 / 2940 4422 www.spirit.com
Tortugair
+ 509 2812 8000
Turks & Caicos Airways www.airturksandcaicos.com
Multivision.voyage@yahoo.com +509 2941-0110
– ATH
napolitanotravel@yahoo.com +509 2940-0750 / 2940-1402
Sans Souci Agence de voyage – ATH mpetoia@gmail.com +509 1813-1564
Uniglobe – ATH
uniglobe@hainet.net +509 3607 1321
info@capitalcoachline.com +509 2 512 5989 / 3 455 1777 caribetours@gmail.com +509 2 257 9379 /3 785 1946 chatour@hotmail.com
Airport Shuttle Service
Airport Express + 509 3445 5902
Pharmacies Obonsoins
107, Rue Louverture, PV + 509 2512 5260 / 3800 3737
Pharmacie du Boulevard
1, Angle Blvd. du 15 Octobre & Rue D. Lespinasse, PAP + 509 3459 6553 / 3808 9050
Pharmaximum 12, Rue Ogé, PV + 509 2816 0116
Polyclinique 48
408, Auto Route de Delmas OPEN 24/7 + 509 2942-0068 / 3694-2078
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 47
general info PASSPORT & VISA
No visa is required for stays less than 90 days. A valid Passport is mandatory. Visa required only for citizens of Cuba. Dominicans, Colombians and Panamanians do not need a Haitian visa as long as they hold a valid American or Canadian visa.
ELECTRICITY 110 V, 60 cycles, American outlets
CURRENCY
The national currency is the Gourde (ISO Code: HTG) The U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere. Currency exchange is available in many banks or hotel front desks. The current rate is around USD1.00 for HTG 41.00 It is advised to convert your home currency into USD before leaving since the local rate of conversion is not always advantageous.
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
Public transportation is not very well organized and is part of the folklore. Private taxis as well as car rentals (sedans and 4x4s) are available from various agencies. Local incoming travel agencies can also arrange cars & minibuses with drivers & guides for transfers and excursions.
INTERNET ACCESS
Major hotels offer Internet access Wi-Fi in public areas & in rooms. Cyber Cafes & Hotspots are available everywhere.
48 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012
CREDIT CARDS
Visa, MasterCard & American Express accepted in most tourist establishments. Cash Advance is available in some banks and ATMs.
TELEPHONES
Country code for Ha誰ti: 509 Local numbers increased to 8 digits. The first digit indicates whether it is a fixed phone (2) or a mobile phone (3). The three mobile phone carriers have booths at the airport.
MEDICAL CARE
The hotels have a list of private doctors available for emergencies. Private hospitals offer better service than public ones. Air ambulances may be required for cases requiring transportation to facilities in the region. Several drugstores and pharmacies are available.
LOCAL AIR TRANSPORT
Several local airlines offer regular flights with aircrafts of up to 19 seats to the following cities: Cap Haitien, Jeremie, Les Cayes, and Port de Paix. Aircrafts and helicopters for air taxi/charter services can also be organized to various other areas of the country.
BANKS
Local & international banks have an extensive urban coverage. A limited number of ATMs is available.
presents
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CHANGE TO THE MOST RELIABLE NETWORK WWW.VOILA.HT
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Nou se Ayiti
Nou se Ayiti
MAY 2012 MAGIC HAITI 3
4 MAGIC HAITI MAY 2012