Magic Haiti - 14th edition by Clarens Courtois

OCTOBER 2012

CAROLE DEVILLERS’ PASSIONS

SPELLBINDING HAITI MASSAGE YOUR SOUL AND LET LOOSE AT

POINTE SABLE THE KLEREN BAR

MODERN MOONSHINE JOURNEY TO THE

HEARTH OF THE SOUTH

Editor’s Note Dear Readers,

Welcome to Haiti Cherie! I hope that your stint on this tropical isle will enable you to really immerse yourself in our culture. Haiti is well worth exploring. It is like a literary staple, full of surprising twists and turns, unusual settings, bright and charming characters, colorful illustrations, mystical narratives, and enticing dialogue, which beckons to be read time and time again. Leaving you mesmerized read after read. Fall here serves as a precursor – boldly announcing that the Winter Holidays will soon be upon us. During this season there are several national holidays that celebrate our culture and our rich history including, Fet Gede and the anniversary of Jean Jacques Dessalines’ death. It also brings to closure the famous fèt chanpèt. These fèt chanpèt celebrate villages’ patron saints and the very popular ones draw large crowds both nationally and internationally. They also serve as a good mechanism to uncover the mysteries of the island. As you peruse this issue you will read several articles about the south, a destination worth venturingto in order to absorb the many beautiful beaches, food joints which range from shacks to gourmet dining, and diverse cozy hotels. You will also meet an active and dynamic ‘very young 95 year old’ activist whose love for her people is evident in all she touches. You may even be tempted to try our version of moonshine. We have tweaked the magazine which now includes a Top Five section as well as a Kreyòl teaching page. I wish you a wonderful stay on this tropical isle, many of you may become enamored with its people and its beauty and it might emerge as one of your favorite destinations. Let the magical warmth of our people guide, as you meander throughout the island.

Roxane Kerby

MAGIC HAITI

OCTOBER 2012

Words in Print

Spotlight The Kleren bar:Modern Moonshine

Why Haiti?

Camels,Cats, Cameras,Caves and Spellbinding Haiti: Carole Devillers’ Passions

Massage Your Soul and Let Loose at Pointe Sable

Hotspot

15 LET’S TALK - ANN PALE 24

Fab 5 Best Hotel Pools

Executive Editor Roxane Kerby 509 3492 2289 roxanekerby@magichaiti.com Copy Editor Angela Galbreath

12 Odette Roy Fombrun The Legendary

Artmosphere Cécile Création, Fabricating Warmth, Stitch by Stitch

20 33 8 40

Escapade Auberge du Rayon Vert Serene Seaside Accommodations Ideal Villa, Wrote the Book on Hospitality

Contributors Maureen Boyer Farah Doura Rachele Viard Kristine Belizaire Christina Jean-Louis Kohl Threlkeld Ronide Pierre Louis Maya Berrouet Graphic Designers Clarens Courtois Rody Victor Senior Photographer Frederick Alexis Photographer Ludmillo D. Pierre Printed in Haiti by L’ IMPRIMEUR SA Publisher Le Nouvelliste +509 2816-0224 / 2941-4646 publicite@lenouvelliste.com

Advertising

Lamanjay You’ve Just Gotta Try It at Chez MaTante

Cover Photo by Carole Devillers

La Souvenance, Fine Dining for Fine Palates

Postcard in Motion 26 Journey to the Hearth of the South 36 Etchings from La Grotte Marie Jeanne

facebook.com/magichaiti

www.magichaiti.com

product of

Hot Dates

O C0 1T2

20 21 2

PARC HISTORIQUE DE LA CANNE À SUCRE

Meet Some of the Best Local Artisans

his is the must-not-miss event of the season. On October 20th and 21st, the annual national art fair, Artisanat en Fête, will be taking place at the Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre. Artisinat en Fête creates an opportunity for everyone to meet Haiti’s most talented and innovative artisans. This is your chance to attend and go home with a piece of their imagination. Artisanat en Fête is organized by Le Nouvelliste and the Institute for Research and Promotion of Haitian Art. With the goals of celebrating Haiti’s cultural richness and encouraging local tal-

By Maureen Boyer / Photos from Le Nouvelliste archives ent, the architects of Aritisant en Fête designed this annual event five years ago. Over 150 artists from throughout the country will gather for this year’s festival to present their hand-crafted creations available for purchase. Various artifacts made from wood, fabric, and metal will be available including paintings, sculptures, jewelry, clothing, handbags and other accessories. Previous years have included artists like Willy Raymond, a talented wood worker; Michel Chataigne, established beautician and now clothing designer; Gary Pierre Charles, well-known recycled tire sculptor; George Laratte, stone carver; and Shelley Clay

of “The Apparent Project” who creates jewelry from recycled materials. This year, a host of brand new artists as well as returning favorites will participate in the event. Artisanat en Fête not only gives you a chance to take a journey through the diverse artistic talents of Haiti, it also gives you a chance to commune with the creative minds and understand the inspiration behind all the oeuvres d’art. This event will take place in the festive setting of Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre where it has attracted thousands of attendees in previous years. Food and beverage

vendors will be present to keep you energized and hydrated for a day of enjoyment. This is an event for art appreciators as well as families and young children. Don’t miss out on the wellknown and the new artists alike who will wow you with their creativity. Go for the culture, go to buy for yourself, or go to buy gifts for friends but most importantly, be there. Whether to adorn your body, your office, your home or just to please a loved one, you’ll find what you need. Get a head start on that Christmas list while you’re there. Artisanat en Fête will open the doors to all the different ways that Haiti can be magical. OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 3

Dear Readers, Haiti finds itself at a decisive moment in its history. The time is now or never to make the right choices. The time to think about the tomorrows of our sons and daughters. It is the time to give this nation what it is entitled to: stability and prosperity.

Mrs. Stephanie Balmir Villedrouin Minister of Tourism

At the Ministry of tourism, we recognize all the values and potential of this country and we are aware of the heavy burden that we must contend with. To meet the challenge that has always haunted the spirit of our brightest leaders. That is why we are working relentlessly to reposition Haiti as a viable touristic destination capable of accelerating the economic development of the country. The raw material is here. It is up to us to refine it, to rid her of layers in order to let the beauty of this jewel that is our beloved Haiti shine. We have just had an intensive week of activities to celebrate World Tourism Day. The Ministry was present on many fronts in various regions of the country that have very promising tourism potential to analyze lodging possibilities and ascertain progress on different sites in those areas. On September 13th, we signed a cooperation agreement with Ecuador in light of the consolidation of the natural and cultural patrimony. We are determined to work to alter the image of this country that has and continues to carry us in her bosom. The desire to reinvigorate the Tourism sector flows in us as the pigment that reddens the hibiscus. And we feel the breeze of change and the dew of prosperity on this country. Haiti is a magical world to explore by all those who dream of get-a-ways. She has everything to please. Do not rely on the testimony of others, live the experience yourself. You have to be here! Go discover. Enjoy the magazine!

Chers lecteurs, Haïti se trouve à un moment décisif de son histoire. C’est maintenant ou jamais le temps de faire les bons choix. Le temps de penser le lendemain de nos fils et de nos filles. C’est le temps de donner à cette nation ce qui lui revient de droit : la stabilité et la prospérité. Au Ministère du Tourisme, nous reconnaissons toutes les valeurs et potentialités de ce pays et nous sommes conscients de la pesante charge qui nous est incombée. Celle de relever ce défi qui a toujours hanté l’esprit de nos plus brillants dirigeants. Et c’est pourquoi, nous travaillons sans relâche de façon à repositionner Haïti comme une véritable destination touristique capable d’accélérer l’engin de développement économique du pays. La matière brute est là. A nous de la raffiner, de la débarrasser de ses gangues pour qu’on puisse laisser réapparaitre enfin, toute la beauté de ce joyau qu’est notre Haïti chérie. Nous venons d’avoir une semaine d’intenses activités dans le cadre de la célébration de la Journée Mondiale du Tourisme. Le Ministère a été présent sur plusieurs fronts dans diverses régions du pays où les potentiels touristiques sont élevés pour analyser les possibilités d’aménagement, sensibiliser et constater l’état d’avancement des travaux en cours sur différents sites au niveau de ces régions. Le 13 septembre dernier, nous avons signé un accord de coopération avec l’Equateur en vue de la consolidation du Patrimoine naturel et Culturel. Nous sommes déterminés à travailler pour requinquer l’image de ce pays qui nous a porté et qui nous porte encore en son sein. L’envie de redonner vigueur au secteur du Tourisme coule en nous comme le pigment qui fait rougir l’hibiscus. Et nous sentons venir la brise du changement et la rosée de la prospérité sur ce pays. Haïti est un univers magique à explorer par tous ceux qui rêvent d’évasion. Elle a tout pour vous plaire. Cessez de vous fier aux témoignages des autres, vivez vousmême l’expérience. Se La Pou w La! Partez à sa conquête. Bonne lecture!

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 5

Cécile Création Fabricating Warmth, Stitch by Stitch

By Kristine Belizaire | Photos by Frederick Alexis 6 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

uilts embody warm memories. For some, it is a memory of sitting with their grandmother as she carefully sews a quilt and recounts stories of her youth. For me, it is my grandmother patiently trying to teach me how to sew. It’s also the many times she covered me with a soft quilt on a cold day. Though I never mastered the craft, I have great respect for the art of quilting. So, you can imagine my delight when I had a chance to meet with Cécile Andre Jean, a woman who creates handmade quilts from her studio, Cécile Création. While they may not be your grandmother’s quilts, Cécile infuses her pieces

with patience and love, just like grandma. Cécile originally wanted to become a doctor, however, financial constraints made this dream almost impossible. In 1992, Cécile was barely sixteen when she took a job at the Dresco Textile factory in order to support her family. It was there that she fell in love with the idea of putting fabrics together to produce items that were not only attractive but functional. Two years later, she enrolled at Elegance Tisima, one of Port-au-

Prince’s tailoring schools, where she excelled and was at the top of her class. That same year, she decided to leave the steady employment at the factory to follow her dream and launch her own sewing company. And now 18 years later, her dream has paid off with the name Cécile Création associated with Haiti’s finest needlework Cécile will expose her fine quilts and pillows for the first time at the biggest craft fair in the country, Artisanat en Fête, this October 20th and 21st. “I will be one of the only people displaying items created through patchwork,” she informs with great pride. Patchwork is a type of needlework which involves sewing together pieces of fabric into a

larger design. Once the shapes are meticulously measured and cut, they are put together to create works of art. Some patchwork designs are simple compositions while others are intricate tessellations of a complicated motif. Still others follow no patter at all, but every patchwork creation is time consuming and labor intensive. In the case of a quilt, ‘It’s not a quilt until it’s quilted.’ The actual act of ‘quilting’ is sewing the patchwork design onto layers of fabric. It’s the layers of fabric which give a quilt its comforting weight and the stitch pattern used to bind the layers together can be as simple or complex just as the patchwork design. Each one of Cécile’s bedding sets includes a quilt as well as four quilted pillows - every work sewn completely by hand. And what works of art they are! From lime greens to

burnt orange to royal blue and cozy lavender, Cécile expertly combines colors in her creative patterns. Using bright colors for children’s items and more muted colors for sophisticated pieces. Just a glance at her red and beige quilt, and I want nothing more than to pull it over my head and bask in its comfort. And as I take pleasure in handling the quilts, it amazes me that they are very light. Made entirely from cotton, Cécile’s creations are perfect for the days between September and February when Caribbean nights get a bit chilly. They also make perfect bedspreads in colder climates with layers of blankets underneath. As quilters like to muse, ‘A bed without a quilt is like a sky without stars.’ In addition to quilting, Cécile is also an accomplished tailor who produces clothing and baby articles that she sells from her studio. Her work is also high in

demand at many Haitian schools who request that she make their uniforms. Even with all of this success, it’s her quilts, sewn together with hours of tender loving care, that make her one of Haiti’s most unique artisans. While it is not grandmother’s quilts, Cécile Creations might be the next best thing. And I just might be inspired to pick back up that needle and thread. Cécile Création is located at 10, Delmas. For more information contact CécileAndre Jean at 3799-2593 or Email Ms. Jean at cecileandre67@yahoo.fr.

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 7

So you’ve tried conch before, but have you ever tasted You’ve Just lambi at its best?

Gotta Try It at Chez MaTante By Maya Berrouet | Photos by Frederick Alexis

ellée, a very popular beach ten minutes from the city of Les Cayes, holds many surprises and enchantments. For a gastronome, one of these wonders is the deliciously prepared lambi at Chez MaTante restaurant. Chez Ma Tante means, ‘at my aunt’s house.’ There is no menu at the restaurant, so don’t bother asking. What they offer is what’s fresh - usually red snapper, lobster, fried pork, and always lambi - accompanied with plantains, tomatoes, avocado, and spicy coleslaw. “We’ve got no specialties here,” claims Madame Julienne Massena, the owner, chef, and adopted auntie of all who dine there. “When it comes to our dishes, we put the same amount

8 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

of love and energy into each and every one.” But her reputation for out-of-this-world lambi is what attracts the masses. Lambi, or conch in English, graze on nutrient rich algae which coat seagrasses throughout the Caribbean Sea, carrying their glossy trumpet shells on their backs. Local fishermen harvest the lambi for Chez MaTante from the same waters admired from the deck of the restaurant. First rule for Madame Massena: never will she buy small sized lambi that have not reached adulthood. Her stock must have thick, strong flesh for taste and for the sustainability of all the conch species. It should also be noted here that lambi is known in Haiti for its aphrodisiacal properties and in this case, size matters; the larger the lambi, the more potent it is.

Massena’s second rule of thumb is that the shellfish must be tender. No, MaTante will not serve chewy fruit de mers therefore she goes to great lengths to deliver dishes that do not disappoint the palate. There are three rules that she abides bide by to ensure quality and freshness. First, the conch is always served within twenty four hours of being harvested. Secondly, the lambi experts use small mallets to soften the meat after it has been extracted from the shell. And thirdly, the meat marinates in a unique vinaigrette for several hours before it’s grilled. When it comes off the grill, the edges are slightly crispy and the inside is as tender as a fillet mignon. Tossed in red kreyòl sauce or served straight off the grill, both versions of lambi are seasoned with MaTante’s special marinade. And yes, “The vinaigrette is a specialty,” admits the chef proudly. The recipe is unavailable for print, but the ingredients can be quite recognizable if one takes the time to relish the flavors. It is said that some customers even ask for an extra amount of that

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 9

dressing either on their plate or simply in a cup to drink. One patron went so far as to describe, “The magical liquid will transport your taste buds to a real Haitian party!”

Our auntie very much appreciates when satisfied clients stick their heads into her kitchen while she is cooking or even bossing around her employees. You may hear her exclaim,

“It makes my blood boil when my plantains are too oily!” She prides herself on crusty banan pese that won’t leave a mark on your napkin. And when not in the kitchen, she spends her

time walking around asking patrons “Ou byen manje?” (Did you eat well?). After you’ve visited the kitchen, you can stroll on the beach or chat with patrons of the adjacent restaurants. Chez MaTante is among other restaurants occupying a long beachfront terrace. Each restaurant uses a different bright color to mark their respective tables and chairs. There are no walls, so guests feel free to ramble and meander freely. The setting for Chez MaTante is familial, charming, and 100% authentic. Madame Massena invites each customer to try lambi for the first time or to experience it at its best. Chez MaTante restaurant is located at Gelée Beach and can be reached by phone at 37888396.

10 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 11

Words in Print

The Legendary

OdetteRoyFombrun By Ronide Pierre-Louis & Angela Galbreath | Photos by Ludmillo Pierre

12 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

llow me to share with you a little bit about the life of a living legend, a powerful force who dedicates her life with nationalist fervor first and foremost to the education of Haiti’s children. Odette Roy Fombrun was born in Port-au-Prince in 1917. Alert and energetic, young Odette developed a habit of addressing the challenges around her using her pen. She wrote every day. With little effort, she filled notebooks with essays, letters, and notes for herself. “You can’t choose to write, it’s just a need of expression,” she shares matter-of-factly. By the tender age of eighteen, Odette

is the author of over 100 books and around 400 journal articles. When Odette was thirty-two, she authored the first of many books which would be integrated into the Haitian Education System. Leçons de Morale et Instruction Civique (Moral Lessons and Civic Instruction) replaced textbooks from France in classrooms throughout Haiti. While there are aspects of civic responsibility and morality which may be universal, the examples used to illustrate these principles vary greatly from culture to culture. Odette also penned textbooks on history and geography. It just didn’t make sense to her that young citizens whose great-grandparents‘ secured their freedom to be learning Haiti’s history from a foreign perspective. Most Hai-

tian students since 1953 have studied her books in elementary and middle schools. In addition to creating texts which have become a staple in Haitian education, Odette also pioneered pre-elementary education when she opened the first ever preschool in Haiti. Then, revolutionizing language arts education in Haiti, she developed a teaching method using images and actions which help primary school pupils embrace written language. Before written Kreyòl was taught in schools, the method was especially useful in helping students learn French right away. She is a fervent believer in the power of the youth of our country. She asserts, “With proper assistance they have the power to bring change.” In the early 1970’s the prolific writer and educator went into exile for 27 years between the US and Africa. While in Africa, she published two books for the Republic of Congo as well as continuing to produce works for her homeland. During an era when Haitian natural resources were being consumed rapidly, she created a map of Haiti’s natural wealth and proposed ways that it could used to fight against poverty. She wrote about the importance of the island’s Taino heritage even requesting that Hispaniola be renamed to Quisqueya (the Taino name for the island). In 1986, she developed a movement called konbitisme which expands the Kreyòl concept of farmers working together for mutual benefit for the whole of Haitian society. She wrote numerous

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 13

works applying the concept in different areas such as education, interpreting the Haitian Constitution and social enterprise. Through the Foundation Odette Roy Fombrun (FORF), which she created in 2007, Mrs. Fombrun continues to promote the ideas and action needed to achieve Haiti’s social and economic development with the application of konbitisme. The latter essentially exhorts civic education and entrepreneurship toward the promotion and protection of the natural, cultural and historical wealth of Haiti. It encourages all social classes to unify their forces to fight against poverty and progress together. The visionary’s latest project under the konbitisme umbrella is a project she calls Touris Lakay, or in English, local tourism. It’s the idea of exploiting

14 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

our national heritage including historical sites, local customs, and environmental attractions in a way which benefits everyone. “Rural tourism is aware of the peasantry’s interest in protecting the environment and heritage to generate wealth for its own benefit.

It should end the exclusion of the peasantry in ensuring the joint participation of three main groups: urban, rural and diaspora,” she wrote in an essay entitled For Haiti’s Survival. Odette Roy Fombrun was declared Tresor National Vivant or Living National Trea-

sure in 2009. President Michel Martelly recently honored Odette by presenting her the Honor and Merit Award Au grade de Chevalier. Indeed, she is a treasure, a role model, a distinguished citizen, and an icon. In addition to her work as an educator and activist, she has also had careers as a mystery novelist, florist and is the proud mother of five children. At ninety-five years of age, Odette Roy Fombrun has not slowed down a bit nor does she intend to. She continues to consult in the educational sector and write poignant editorials published in Haiti and abroad. For more information about the Foundation Odette Roy Fombrun or to purchase her works, visit www.forfhaiti.org.

Let’s Talk!

Ann Pale!

Welcome to La Perle des Antilles! Throughout your stay, our team here at Magic Haiti does not want to leave you stranded, so we thought why not share an instrumental aspect of our culture - Haitian Kreyòl. While you are here, we want to make sure vant ou toujou plen - your stomach is always full. So we will leave you with some of the most important words you will ever hear in Kreyòl- (as you know everyone love’s Haitian food!) Good Morning : Bonjou

Stomach : Vant

How are you? : Kouman ou ye?

I’m full. : Vant mwen plen.

Hunger : Grangou

Thanks for the food. : Mesi pou manje a.

I’m hungry. : Mwen grangou.

Meat : Vyann

Food/Eat : Manje

I’m a vegetarian. (I don’t eat meat.) : Mwen pa manje vyann.

I would like to eat please. : Mwen vle manje tanpri.

I want food without meat. Mwen vle yon manje ki pa gen vyann.

Take me to eat please. : Mennem al manje tanpri. Thirsty : Swaf I’m thirsty. : Mwen swaf. Give me some water please, I am really thirsty. Banm dlo silvouple, mwen swaf anpil.

Water : Dlo I want to drink water please. : Mwen vle bwe dlo tanpri. I need drinking water. : Mwen bezwen dlo potab.

And I’d like to end our session by sharing one of our proverbs. We use our proverbs as an integral means of communication, a medium of sharing the lessons life has taught us and continuing our rich oral traditions and customs. As you build your network and get started on the projects ahead remember that : Sak vid pa kanpe. – You can’t function on an empty stomach. We hope you find this helpful. Try these phrases out with the new friends you will make while here and see how you do! OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 15

Hotspot

l u o S r u o Y t e a g e a s s s o Ma d Let Lo an

By Maya Berrouet | Photos by Frederic Alexis

alking barefoot in fine sand is like indulging in a natural foot massage. The warm grains caress the undersides of your feet and slide between your toes like silk on your skin. The 1/2 mile stretch of white sand at Pointe Sable is an ideal location for this kind of seaside pampering. After a stress-erasing stroll, we can slip into to the Caribbean for some hydrotherapy. The turquoise water laps at your waist as you wade further and further from the shore. Yards out to sea and still the gentle waves reach

16 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

no higher than your chest. How much goodness must the mind, spirit and body absorb through the gentle cradling of this electric blue jacuzzi. This rejuvenation is non-exclusive. Enter Pointe Sable Public Beach via PortSalut coming from Les Cayes every day of the year. This is the southern departmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular beach and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long enough that everyone can find what they need to unwind. Upon entering the one-way beachfront drive, the

first stretch of beach we come across is populated exclusively by whispering palm trees. Proceeding on we find almond trees waving some papery red leaves in welcoming gesture, a few benches and permanent umbrellas to accommodate picnickers. Then, as we reach the main parking area, we hear the beat announcing our arrival at the center of the action. Whereas the rest of the beach behaves more like a lava lamp, this widest area of the beach is full of kinesthetic activity. Hundreds of multicolored

wooden chairs and tables decorate the sand. Waiters rush back and forth delivering fresh grilled seafood to unhurried diners. Vendors are ready with frosty bottled beverages, rum, snacks, swimsuits, and straw hats. Emerging from the shower/changing area, the skin of new arrivals donning brightly colored swimwear become apparent. From a stage, the DJ blankets the scene with konpa and reggaeton causing everyone to swoon and gyrate.

How much goodness must the mind, spirit and body absorb through the gentle cradling of this electric blue jacuzzi.

We choose a table and a friendly server comes to take our drink order. He tells us that he can offer anpil medikaman or ‘lots of medication’ referring to flavorful sugarcane based home-brews. The ‘ronn sant’, or the center of the circle, which is infused with cinnamon, lemon grass, bitter oranges, passion fruit, and anise sounds like a winner to us. We order up a round and sip as good company and ambiance help us to totally relax. We look over to see a young man circulating with a tin pot dangling from his elbow. ‘Lambi, lambi, lambi!’ A couple laying in the sand close by respond in unison, ‘Lambi!’ Over saunters

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 17

the conch vendor dishing out first a taste on a toothpick for the lady and then filling a cupful and dousing the meat with hot sauce after the taste was well received. The pair takes turns offering one another bites of the wholesome snack from the end of the toothpick until the cup is empty. Beyond the couple, the water is dotted with bobbing bodies. A volleyball team is in view, celebrating the end of their season enjoying a day at Pointe Sable. Passing their ball back and forth in the water. A shoddy pass from one of the players lands among a party of floating sunbathers who genially toss it back. A hand fashioned boat takes

a break from fishing to ferry a young family out to the sandbar. From the shore, the kids are just tiny specs as they spill from the boat and run across the ankle deep water. Beach lovers, we have found pure inspiration. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s found in the texture of the beach, the soft movement of the waves, the strength of the wind, and the energy of our fellow revelers. On one side, vacationers find a tranquil 18 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

environment for meditation and reflection. All the while a party is in full swing on the other side all the way to the sandbar. To reach Pointe Sable Beach in Port-Salut, take Route Nationale 2 from Port-au-Prince to Les Cayes. Continue straight through the 4 Chemins intersection. Look for the large sign on the left hand indicating access to the beach.

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 19

Escapade

Auberge du Rayon Vert

Serene Seaside Accommodations As the wind gently tickles your very core and shade cast by almond trees naturally cools every muscle look out into the sea. Let the sounds of waves synchronise with the natural flow of your spirit. As the sun melts into the ocean, you may notice a green ray which flashes above the horizon… 20 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

By Christina Jean Louis Photos by Frederick Alexis & Ludmillo Pierre

n the heart of Port-Salut, one of Haiti’s most treasured touristic destinations, a cozy boutique hotel overlooks the ocean. Auberge du Rayon Vert, literally meaning ‘Inn of the Green Ray’, is a charming hotel marked by its hospitality and paradisiacal atmosphere. Conveniently located about thirty minutes from Haiti’s fourth largest city, Les Cayes, this delightful inn serves as an alluring island getaway for locals and foreigners alike. When you enter the hotel terrace, you will indubitably feel the urge to slip off your shoes and have the sand caress your toes. I do and then proceed to enter the bar/restaurant barefoot where Mr. Christian Barrière, the owner awaits. He insists that I call him Christian, as he welcomes me with bisous and a potent cocktail

cocktails like the shango and blue lagoon. Both of which you can find at the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bar. Each room is tastefully furnished with Acajou and Cedar wood as well as all the modern amenities. Christian is currently in the process of adding

named an apache. The sweet rustling of the bamboo encircling the gazebo brings comfort; the rustic simplicity of the space parallels the untouched beauty of Port-Salut. BarriĂ¨re seats me at a table carved in the irregular shape of an island and I sip my apache, a crisp blend of passion fruit,

twenty more rooms which he expects to finish by the end of 2013 to accommodate the increasing number of visitors. Facing Point Sable beach, Auberge du Rayon Vert has been the talk of the town for a little over a decade now. Af-

Indian rum, citrus, sugar and cinnamon. Taking great pride in this country and the beauty of local art - he delights in informing me that every piece of furniture at the hotel is made in Haiti. The Auberge is currently equipped with two single rooms and four double rooms all named after delicious OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 21

general info

ter meeting with Barrière , who literally at Auberge du Rayon Vert exceeds interbuilt the hotel himself, you can under- national standards. The only painkiller stand why. This warm-hearted gentleman needed at this location is the one youCARDS PASSPORT & VISA CREDIT kisses both cheeks of every guest and he order at the bar. No visa is required for stays less than 90 days. A valid Passport is Visa, MasterCard & American Express accepted in most tourist esmandatory. Visa required only for citizens of Cuba. Dominicans, Cotablishments. greets many by name. Drawing on his exSimple joys are the focus of this uniqueCash Advance is available in some banks and ATMs. lombians and Panamanians do not need a Haitian visa as long as periences ashold a restaurateur and hotelier in visa. place - wiggling your toes in the sand, being they a valid American or Canadian France, he excels at the art of hospitality. greeted by warm smiles, an ocean front view TELEPHONES Barriere personally trains each of his staff of the sun slipping under the horizon, tofor Haïti: 509 Countryjust code ELECTRICITY Local numbers increased to 8 digits. The first digit indicates whethmembers to ensure the service provided name a few. Barrière hopes that all who enter 110 V, 60 cycles, American outlets er it is a fixed phone (2) or a mobile phone (3). The three mobile phone carriers have booths at the airport.

CURRENCY

The national currency is the Gourde (ISO Code: HTG) The U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere. Currency exchange is available in many banks or hotel front desks. The current rate is around USD1.00 for HTG 41.00 It is advised to convert your home currency into USD before leaving since the local rate of conversion is not always advantageous.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

Public transportation is not very well organized and is part of the folklore. Private taxis as well as car rentals (sedans and 4x4s) are available from various agencies. Local incoming travel agencies can also arrange cars & minibuses with drivers & guides for transfers and excursions.

INTERNET ACCESS

Major hotels offer Internet access Wi-Fi in public areas & in rooms. Cyber Cafes & Hotspots are available everywhere.

48 2012 2012 22 MAGIC HAITI MAY OCTOBER

MEDICAL CARE

The hotels have a list of private doctors available for emergencies. Private hospitals offer better service than public ones. Air ambulances may be required for cases requiring transportation to facilities in the region. Several drugstores and pharmacies are available.

LOCAL AIR TRANSPORT

Several local airlines regular aircrafts of up he to 19 Theoffer Auberge du flights Rayon with Vert feel the peace exseats to the following cities: Cap Haitien, Jeremie, Les Cayes, and perienced the first time he noticed that green ray Port de Paix. Aircrafts and helicopters for sunset. air taxi/charter services can also be orabove the ganized to various other areas of the country.

Auberge du Rayon Vert

BANKS aubergedurayonvert@yahoo.fr

+509 3713-9035 1728 urban coverage. Local & international banks have/ 3779an extensive A limited number of ATMs is available.

MONDAY SANKOFA

Lunch & Breakfast Specials Delivery Available

Open Daily for Breakfast and Lunch 43 Rue Rebecca 2 940-6262

THURSDAY CHICKEN FIESTA Chicken Wings Your Way Finger Licking Chinese Food as Well Delivery Available

Open Daily for Lunch & Dinner 124 Rue Panamericaine 3 813-9866 Jlaborde25@yahoo.com

MONDAY

NANA’Z SANDWICH SHACK Lunch Special

Special Hamburger & Milkshake 11:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m.

Open Daily for Lunch 77 Rue Gregoire Petion-Ville Haiti (509) 39 92 22 22 / (509) 39 92 21 21

TUESDAY

GARDEN STUDIO Kareoke Night Thursday

Unplugged

Beginning at 9:00 p.m.

Open Tuesday to Sunday for Lunch & Dinner 101 Rue Gregoire 3 499-0452

SATURDAY THE KLEREN BAR First shot on the house

Fritay Plate

Noon to Midnight

Open Saturdays & Sundays

SATURDAY LE P’TIT CREUX

Kenscoff 87, Rt de Kenscoff 36 96 21 14/37 67 63 67

Local Buffet & Live Music

Noon – 4:00 p.m.

Open Daily for Breakfast & Lunch 57, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 3892 / 2942 3893

SUNDAY CAFÉ DE L’EUROPE Brunch

11:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. Saturday Live Sax Player Friday Tapas Night with Troubadour 17. Rue Mangonès. Berthé. PV 3 406 8525 / 3 464 0468

It is such a drag to check into a hotel and find out that the pool looks like it belongs to an abandoned home. A pristine swimming pool on the other hand speaks volumes as to what type of lodging experience is in store. Aware of such expectations, some hotels go to great lengths to offer an enjoyable pool experience to their guests by guaranteeing unforgettable views, private cabanas and the bluest of waters.

FAB

photo by HOMère cardichon

Côte des Arcadins

If size matters then the pool at Club Indigo is the one for you! With 600,000 gallons of water, there’s enough splash to accommodate every desire. Whether on a family vacation, celebrating a memorable occasion with friends or enjoying a romantic getaway this aquatic gem is a ‘must’. From the pool you view the bar area, private cabanas and of course the kiddie pool.

Port-Morgan,

Cap Haitien

The pool at the Hotel Mont Joli is probably what you were seeking when visualizing letting yourself go in a deep body of water to cool off on a hot humid day. Set on a terrace overlooking the bay of Cap Haitien, one could spend hours floating away in its majestic blue water rivaling that of any lagoon.

Hotel Villa Creole,

photo by JEFF KERZNER

L’Ile-A-Vache

24 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

Hotel Mont Joli, photo by Frederick Alexis

Club Indigo,

The heated pool at Wahoo Bay Beach Club is nothing short of cool. Perched over the coast, swimmers are exposed to a panoramic view of the ocean where the occasional jet skies and speed boats cruise by. One can definitely feel quite like the jet setter in this tropical setting with a modern twist. Let the jets of the filtration system massage you and you’ll never get out.

While most hotels fill their pools with chlorinated water, Port Morgan Hotel sees things differently and brings the ocean to theirs. Filled with salt water, the ecofriendly lodge gives its guests a chance to swim “au naturel”. Good-bye irritated eyes and itchy skin and welcome rejuvenation!

Pétion-Ville

photo by Frederick Alexis

Côte des Arcadins

photo by HOMère cardichon

Wahoo Bay Beach Club,

BEST HOTEL POOLS By Farah Doura

Can’t get away from the city for some aquatic fun? Fear not, the pool at the Villa Creole to the rescue! Located in a cozy, oasis-like setting, this pool is perfect for swimming a few laps to release a stressful day or for meeting a few friends for some well needed R&R on the weekends.

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 25

Postcard in Motion By Maureen Boyer Photos by Frederick Alexis, Ludmillo Pierre & Jeff Kerzner

26 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

es Cayes. The city of hospitality. A friendly city, romantic even. It’s a place that’s difficult to leave. Its energy just draws you in. I had the wonderful opportunity to go on assignment to the city of Les Cayes with the rest of the Magic Haiti staff and I fell in love. The journey to Les Cayes starts with the roads. The contrast between the energetic hustle and bustle of the

capital and the road which leads to the south of Haiti is surprising. The view from the car window as we travel the smooth asphalt is breathtaking. Scenic views of green foliage with mountains and plains covered in vegetation. At different points of our journey, I find some of the most picturesque views on the island, rolling green hills joining the bright blue waters of the sea. No matter how many times I’ve traveled this road, the

scenery always hits me like the pleasant scent of a afternoon shower in the summer. Finally, after a couple of pit stops and photo-ops, we reach our destination. Even before we pass under the imposing arches at the entrance of the city marked with a giant “500” on top, I can tell this will be a new experience. We are not in Port-au-Prince anymore. For one thing, the city moves on two wheels.

Adult men as well as women, dressed casually or in formal attire, circulate on motorcycles. I quickly adapt to the calm, relaxed pace of the city; I find

that I’m breathing easier. I’m ready to explore the landscape, the seafood and meet the people of Les Cayes. However, exploring will have to wait, because it’s time to retreat to our respective hotels to rest after the trip. The group has the chance to experience three local respites: Villa Mimosa a charming hotel in the outskirts of the city, Le Manguier a modern establishment and La Cayenne, one of Les Cayes’ oldest hotels full of history and culture. Early the next morning the Magic Haiti team is ready to tackle the day’s missions. While some of the writers gear up to cover several locations on the vibrant island of Ile à Vache, I along with two other writers and a photographer pack up for the neighboring historic town of Saint-Louis du Sud. After a short ride passing by the colorful rural houses, cows and goats, we reach Fort des Oliviers. Our guide, a very nice gentleman, appears and seems to know everything about

the ruined fort. He explains the strategic position of the fort on the water and how it was used to defend the area. Visiting the fort is like stepping back in time. The years of history lessons and reading books on Haiti’s colonial period come alive. Leaving the fort, we wave at several fishermen resting nearby with their small wooden canoes tied-up, waiting for the sea to calm down.

coconuts for the beach goers. There’s also a large foreign family; the women made sandwiches and the children splash around in the water. Several young men kick a ball back and forth. I gulp fresh juice from a gigantic coconut that is way too big to finish and can’t resist the water for another minute and dive in. Quite an idyllic beach scene. To pass time before our next appointment, we decide

The warm sun overhead is perfect for our next assignment, which is Kokoye Beach. It is home to fantastic coconut groves which separate the road from the wide white sand beach. After we pay a small fee to enter the area, we’re on the beach with several other individuals. There’s a lively group of Haitians from the Diaspora listening to music and dancing. There are young kids making arts and crafts and tree climbers offering to pick

to squeeze in a quick visit to the nearby city, of Aquin. This coastal city, which is also known for its beautiful beaches, is extremely tranquil, sleepy even. The tidy town square we find nearly empty and towering over it is an appealing church built in the early 1900’s. We find a hole-in-the-wall restaurant where we order fresh lobster and fish at a very reasonable price. Satiated and satisfied, we head towards Jardin Sur Mer,

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 27

our next appointment, a small hotel between Aquin and SaintLouis du Sud. Jardin Sur Mer is owned by Robert Anglade, one of the most fun, energetic and en-

28 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

tertaining characters I’ve ever met. Anglade invites us to try different treats from the menu including a delicious spread made from locally harvested oysters. He slips us shot after

shot of sweet hibiscus liquor. Then, the hotelier gives us a tour of the attractive property which houses a wide variety of trees, a chicken coop as well as rabbits. We walk throughout the property from the beach below up to the top of a small hill. It seems like we have a view of the whole Southern coast of Haiti from there. This view is beyond picturesque, it’s heavenly. As the sun sets, a fleet of fishing boats heads out to sea. We catch up with the rest of the Magic Haiti team at Crystou’s Pizzeria back in Les Cayes to recount our respective experiences. We eat, drink and even play a game of charades. We become more than co-workers, we’re friends. The next day, I know I’m in for another natural high. I load in the car with another writer and our Magic photographer and zoom off in the direction of Camp Perrin. There, we meet guide, Joel Constant, who can’t wait to show us the

best of what nature has to offer. He immediately leads us up the mountain path to Kounoubwa Cave. We reach the cave’s entrance at the tip top of the mountain. ‘Uh, oh’ is the thought that crosses our minds when we see the slippery muddy entrance. I’m in a special situation myself as I have chosen to wear a lovely cotton sundress and sandals. Nevertheless, I don the hard hat Constant issues and eagerly descend into the cave. An hour later, we emerge from this ancient church-like space with huge smiles to greet the bright sun. The next day we’re ready for out next assignment, a sacred waterfall nearby. The view of Saut Mathurine, from the road is majestic, and as we get closer and closer on foot, it becomes downright humbling. The force of the water pushing the river below is awesome. We swim with Big Sonson and Little Sonson, two kids who are regulars to the site and dive

from the cliffs. It’s hard to step away from this awe-inspiring side of nature and our new friends, but we must get back to the rest of the team. We rendez-vous this time at Gelée Beach, where a strip of fresh seafood restaurants is located. We order lobsters, conch and fish with sides of fried plantains and our local spicy coleslaw “pikliz”. I’m enjoying everyone’s company, but perhaps it’s the wonders of nature that I experienced earlier in the day that put me in a pensive mood. So after dinner, I take some time out to inhale the experience and decide to take a solitary walk on the beach. There I witness a father teaching his daughter how to ride a motorcycle and another family enjoying a picnic by the water. And tonight it’s time to check out Les Cayes’ nightlife. We get dropped off at the local hang-out which serves as a convenient store during the day. From there, we hit a packed nightclub where club goers dance to top pop hits, reggae, konpa, and zouk tunes, all night long. The following day we

explore the botanical garden of Les Cayes where you find samples of every plant Haiti has to offer, from fruit trees like the star fruit to flowers to spices. We then visit a smaller garden, where I steer a paddle boat and become mystified by a frolicking horse named Talie. Assignments continue with a group lunch hosted by a Chinese-Haitian restaurant called Nami. In addition to the fantastic meal, the owner exposes us to the Nami radio and television stations and invites us to appear on a show the following day. We can’t wait! That same night we meet the young enthusiastic Director of Tourism of the South at a fast food restaurant called Pen Dore as we dine to the sound of a live twoubadou band. Our last day in Les Cayes, we have the honor to be interviewed by the friendly journalists of Radio Television Nami. For once, we are not the ones asking the questions; the tables have turned and it’s a blast. We explain what Magic Haiti is, our roles as writers and our fabulous experiences in the city of Les Cayes as well as the surrounding cities.

Back to reality, it’s time to pack up and head back home to Port-au-Prince. On the road, we notice a ball of dried up vetiver and stop to pick it up. Vetiver is a plant used as a base

in perfumes, and of which Les Cayes is a major global exporter. We drive back, the car smelling of vetiver with a sensual piece of Les Cayes with us, already planning our imminent return.

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 29

Spotlight

By Maureen Boyer

Photos Frederick Alexis

Modern Moonshine

u s t what the Port-au-Prince bar scene needed! With local alcohol, local ingredients, and local decor, The Kleren Bar stands out. This quaint locale, found in the cool mountains of Kenscoff, is ahead of the curve; the owners have successfully widened the market of this traditional Haitian spirit by offering a comfortable place to consume and enjoy it. Before I continue, you’re probably

30 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

wondering what is kleren? Kleren is a type of alcoholic beverage made from distilled sugar cane, similar to rum. It’s Haiti’s version of moonshine and it is very popular. Kleren is normally sold on the side of the road by merchants who create different flavors by infusing the alcohol with fruits, leaves, roots, or artificial flavorings. On the streets, the concoctions are poured

by the cup out of reused jugs and are known collectively by many different names such as tranpe, tafya, grog, or simply kleren. Some tranpe recipes are common all over Haiti. But, it’s nearly impossible to find the hard-hitting yet tasty beverage served at an establishment, or rather, it was until now. The idea for the Bar came from two sisters, Badiana Louis andEsmeraldaDoublette(Mémé). Badiana, the eldest of the two, was formerly a distributor of pure kleren. When she stopped selling the drink, the sisters got creative with her leftover stock and started concocting their own tranpe. “Every Sunday we would invite friends over for a steamy kleren party. We would have individuals from all walks of life enjoying our home-

when I stopped working, we decided to open the bar,” Mémé reveals. Kenscoff was the perfect place to do it. The pair lives nearby and the cool mountain air is the right backdrop. The cozy space they chose is adorned with a modern yet authentic local touch. Small coffee tables and comfy tan cushions accommodate groups, pairs, and individuals. Ever ything.is locally made, from the chandelier to the furniture to the main attraction - the actual bar itself. If you look closely at the bar, you will see it’s made from windows of old gingerbread houses. Keeping up with the local made flavors of kleren; we were sort of testing the market with theme, the food menu is ena grander idea in mind. Then, tirely made of traditional street

snacks like griyo, (cubed fried pork), herring patties called pate kòde, and akra, a crispy fritter made from local roots. Badiana, the chef of the kitchen, asserts, “When you eat the food here, you are sure that what you’re eating is fresh and clean. Just like the kleren; I know it’s good kleren because I buy it myself from an industrial still in St. Michel de l’Attalaye.” Badiana is also the mixologist behind the tranpe. Some of the tranpe you can find at the Bar are the same flavor combinations found on the street. She uses berries, peaches, local fruit called abriko, ginger, cinnamon, and a bitter leaf called asowosi. Mémé and Badiana have also created their own recipes like the TKB, named after the bar, made from starfruit, cherries and mint. In addition to tranpe, The Kleren Bar offers an extensive list of cocktails. The star of the menu is the “Fòk se li”, a favorite of all the regular patrons. It is a sweet drink made

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 31

Save more, do more

32 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

with Amaretto, vodka, sweet and sour, orange juice, and passion fruit tranpe served with a chunk of sugar cane. This drink is a must-try. An added plus is that none of the items on the menu are made with artificial flavoring or coloring. It is all natural. The Kleren Bar’s unique menu has attracted a diverse clientele, from dignitaries to young business owners to the locals of Kenscoff. Just the type of clientele that the sisters were targeting; they want everyone to feel welcomed at The Kleren Bar. When I asked sisters Mémé and Badiana what they had in mind when they were creating the bar, they said they wanted something “edgy, chic and especially local.” I think they succeeded with The Kleren Bar. What’s better than enjoying

traditional drinks and snacks in a pleasant setting? I get to sit down, socialize and enjoy a strong kleren drink just like my grandfather used to. The Kleren Bar is now one of my favorite establishments in Port-au-Prince and I guarantee, it will become one of yours as well. Kleren Bar is located at 87 Route de Kenscoff and can be reached at 3 696-2114 Open from Noon to Midnight every Saturday and Sunday

facebook.com/magichaiti

Escapade

Ideal Villa Wrote the Book By Kristine Belizaire

Photos by Frederick Alexis

on Hospitality

or Magaly Neiland Pélissier, affectionately called ‘Galy’, hotel management is in her blood. It was her mother who had the idea to open Ideal Villa in the 1970’s. Initially, the hotel had just 10 rooms and Galy’s family catered to a small clientele mostly comprised of Canadian tourists. “Since my youth, I’ve lived in the atmosphere of the OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 33

hotel and I was used to the constant comings and goings,” reveals Galy. “It was and is still exciting to participate in the hospitality industry and offer services that attract tourists to Haiti.” Growing up eating and breathing hospitality, the natural hostess has written volumes on the subject. Literally, volumes. She is the author of a series of hospitality manuals entitled, “Dis moi comment recevoir” (Tell Me How to Host) which provide copious instructions for ensuring one’s guests are comfortable. Galy believes that the hotel industry requires a great deal of expertise, especially in a country such as Haiti. She views her role as hostess to some of Haiti’s visitors as her personal contribution to promoting her homeland’s outstanding positive qualities. She notes that providing service that matches international standards creates loyalty and galvanizes Haiti’s position as a touristic destination. “I believe that it

34 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

is a noble task to sell a positive image of the country,” she remarks, “I have always wanted to do things that make a difference which is why I remain so thoroughly involved with the hotel.” Today, Ideal Villa receives guests in twenty-nine graciously accommodating rooms and many common areas. For most travelers, a hotel is measured by the comfort of its rooms. Ideal Villa earns high marks, with each room equipped with wifi, air-conditioning, large beds, flat screen televisions, and a balcony offering a serene view of the pool. A billiards area, outdoor garden,

and several outdoor seating nooks are welcoming to groups and the shared spaces create a familial atmosphere. In addition, the Villa has a reception hall which can be rented for meetings and special occasions. Most of the decor at the quaint hotel was fashioned by talented Haitian artisans. A painter herself, Galy enjoys

adorning the spaces with original Haitian pieces. Indeed, many of the walls showcase the works of Haitian painters, while the smooth mahogany furniture in the waiting area was hand-crafted locally. At the restaurant, traditional local cuisine are her customers favorite. Breakfast starts off with fresh fruit juice or hot Haitian coffee. Then

dig in to a plate of mayi moulen (savory cornmeal porridge) or a bowl of soup joumou, (hearty pumpkin soup). For dinner enjoy pwasson gwo sèl (roasted fish) to griyo (fried pork chunks) served with bannann peze and diri kole ak pwa (fried plantains with rice and beans). The abundant spices used in these Haitian dishes are sure to excite your palate! At the end of a long day, a drink at the bar or a dip in the pool can be the perfect ways to bring your day to a close. Whether visiting for a few days, or planning an extended stay in Port-au-Prince, Ideal Villa is truly an IDEAL place to be hosted. Ideal Villa is located on Delmas 53 # 6. For more information call 2 246-11 23 or (305) 851 6162.

Choix, Conseils, Services, Ceramex c’est la bonne adresse.

PÉTION-VILLE 14, rue Rigaud AÉROPORT Route des Nimes ROUTE DE FRÈRES Building Quincaillerie Totale

ADVANCE

CROIX-DES-BOUQUETS Route de Santo

Tél. : 509-2510-7095 / USA: 305 517 5451 email: info@ceramex.net

www.ceramex.net OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 35

Postcard in Motion

By Christina Jean-Louis | Photos by Jeff Kerzner

Photo by Carole Devillers

carry this local lore with me as our adventure commences. The warm island-sun beams down as we hike up the steep shrubstudded hill. I begin to feel my calves tighten with each stride. Jean, our guide to the Marie Jeanne cave assures that it will be a smooth five to ten minute trek to the mouth of the cave, but my forehead is already glistening. We take a second to breathe, and catch a glimpse of the panoramic view of Port-a-Piment. What a charming ocean-crusted town. “We are almost there...” promises the fit young man with a grin. The incline steepens, but just as our guide mentioned, the iron gated entrance to the cave area comes quickly into view. La Grotte Marie Jeanne is

p o te nt i a l l y the largest cave system in the Caribbean. It’s located in the middle of the southwestern peninsula, approximately 20-25 minutes from Port-Salut. It is said that most of this cavern developed in the Tertiary Period – anywhere from 2.6 million years to 65 million years ago. An era which many associate with the great flood. Marie Jeanne is a cave system of marine origin, and it is theorized that the whole area was once completely submerged. Jean uses his key to unlock the gate and ushers us into the protected space. We are staring into what appears to be a sink hole right at the top of this hill. Luckily, a newly installed metal

Photo by Carole Devillers

…As legend goes long, long ago a stunning young lady by the name of Marie Jeanne served as a valiant warrior in one of the revolutionary battles between the French and the slaves. Her courage, mystery and beauty will be remembered forever. To her, I believe, one of the most remarkable sights in the Caribbean pays homage.

staircase with a railing provides safe passage leading into the cave. The scrub of the hillside is replaced by lush greenery. Our guide tenderly recounts interesting anecdotes that correspond with every branch, every rock, and every footstep. “Notice the majestic mapou

tree - revered as one of biggest trees one will find on the island and known as a refuge for many spirits found in Haitian culture. And this rock, it’s called the “roche ravette” because the little holes are reminiscent of places roaches would hide. These rocks are

like cairns marking the way to the cave entrance.” Just as he finishes this last sentence, the south access to the cave, called the ‘Doline’ entrance, appears although it’s almost completely camouflaged by the rest of the environment. It’s as if the jungle serves as a fortress protecting the delicate monument it formed so many years ago. “La Cathedral, Bois Caiman, l’Olympe, Morne Calvaire, Liberté, Vertières, Piscine de Silöe, Salle des Pas Perdu, etc.” Our guide lists the chambers of the cave one

after the other. “Let’s see it all!” I readily exclaim, protected by my hard hat. This is my first caving experience and I’m ready to take it all in. “Oh no,” starts the very patient Jean looking perplexed, “You see, there are over 56 chambers located on several different levels which extend over more than four kilometers in distance. And, there are many, many more, still yet to be discovered. But don’t worry, I’ll take you to all the best places!” We light our lamps and venture onward, forward, downward. As we step through

each passageway the fine sand is pebbled with sea shells, “Evidence of the cave’s marine origins,”Jean notes. Over time the evolution of the calciferous stone has formed dazzling structures. There’s the giant elephant, the bust of Marie Jeanne welcoming all guests as she gazes from a distance, and an illuminated candle which appears to have been burning for centuries as wax has begun to melt onto the floor of the cathedral chamber. As we peruse through each chamber, Jean goes into technical details about the formations. While of course, I attempt to scribble down 38 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

every complicated term our knowledgeable shepherd divulges, I realize that this experience is not just a sightseeing exploration. It’s so much more than that. Emerging into the sun-

light, I’m moved by all that I have experienced. I gripped my way around slippery ledges, shimmied through tunnels, examined archaeological material, and experienced complete darkness for the first time. There

literally is a whole other world existing underneath the soil. It is the perfect example of an underground labyrinth, a natural laboratory, a historic museum, a place of worship, and a space for rest and meditation.

To visit La Grotte Marie Jeanne, contact : Jean Baptiste Eliovil (guide) 3638 2292 or 3782 3275. Also, check out the website: www.grottesdhaiti.com

#1 in OFF-ROAD

26, Route de l’Aéroport 2514-1800 / 2250-1800 / 2813-1800

polarishaiti@rhtplaza.com OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 39

Lamanjay

Souvenance By Farah Doura | Photos by Ludmillo Pierre

Fine Dining for Fine Palates

et in an old stone home reminiscent of PétionVille’s quieter days, La Souvenance Restaurant has been synonymous with fine French dining for the last 25 years; welcoming diners as if they were invited guests. It’s 5:00 pm and last minute preparations for tonight’s dinner are under way. The very chic, Mrs. Edwidge Barme assumes her role as proprietor, flips through the reservation book and with her Maitre D’, starts placing reservations: «A party of six at table 5, three dining at table 2, Mr. and Mrs. X will be at their usual table outside by the pool... and so on and so forth.» The restaurant accommodates 45 people and this Friday night it’s swarming with patrons. The year is 1987 when Mr. and Mrs. Barme decide to leave their beautiful Côte d’Azur home to move to Haiti, a country visited by Mrs. Barme

40 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

some 20 years prior with her father. The goal once settled in the Caribbean country? Open a French restaurant. Quite logical when one finds out that the Mrs. owned a salon de thé in her native France. Leaving friends and family behind, they were however able to take something with them: the name of their villa, La Souvenance. “The name felt so appropriately

fitting for a French restaurant right here in Haiti and it simply imposed itself,”shares Mrs. Barme. “And besides, just the word itself is reminiscent of so many beautiful memories,” continues the restaurateur. Kind, caring and very detailed oriented, it is only natural that a woman like Mrs. Barme runs the kitchen that concocts dishes of memorable

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 41

names. So much so that when the embargo on Haiti was lifted in 1994, the Washington Post did not simply announce the lift but rather wrote that the Mousse de la Baltique was back at La Souvenance, referring to a dish that was discontinued during that period. It is also as if meals at La Souvenance are prepared by a loving aunt somewhere in the country side of France. Maybe because the antique furniture and relics

from the couple’s world travels add a home like feel to the place but one thing’s for sure, it feels good being there. Of fine dining, the menu

at La Souvenance reads like a culinary dream. Flavors are abundant and vary so much from dish to dish. The Salade Florilège, coated with a citrus vinaigrette looks festive and boasts avocados, hearts of palm, cucumbers, and toma-

42 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

toes. The creamy and comforting Mushroom Gratiné is to be savored slowly and deliberately since every bite bursts with sweet thyme and the main ingredient itself, the mushrooms. The fresh salmon served as a Feuilleté, the Conch Ceviche paired with a light guacamole and lest not forget the juicy Steak au Poivre plated with potatoes and pureed carrots are enough to please many

palates. Do not deprive yourself of sweets once the dessert card arrives; let the Crêpes à l’Orange et au Grand Marnier seal the feast. Dimmed lights, unwinding music and gleaming gardens play background to delectable foods and wines. It’s the formal wait service to Mrs. Barme’s personal attention to her guests (and maybe the original Norman Rockwell painting on the wall) that have set this restaurant apart. But then again when you have the Washington Post refer to one of your dishes as a symbol of important transition in a whole country’s history, you must not be small stuff. La Souvenance is opened for Dinner Tuesdays to Saturdays from 6:00 p.m. till 10:00 p.m. 48 Rue Geffrard, PV | 3 762-7824

Why Haiti?

Camels, Cats, Cameras, Caves and Spellbinding Haiti:

Carole Devillers’ Photos and Text by Carole Devillers

s the plane taking me back to Haiti rises in altitude and peaks through the cloud cover, a phantasmagoric field of nebulous cavities and puffy formations delicately lit by the morning sun is suddenly revealed. Fantastic landscapes and cloud cities keep me glued to the plane window, mesmerized. It’s not long before an analogy with the stalagmite formations speleologist

Passions

Olivier Testa and I found in the depths of Haiti’s earthy cavities comes to mind, and memories of weeks of exploration resurface. The mind drifts away, and before I know it, I’m back in 1976.

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 43

1976

– the year I first set foot in Haiti. I had come for a holiday with Haitian friends from Washington, DC where I lived then. I remember vividly this uncanny feeling that grabbed me at the throat when I reached the island. “I’m home,” I said to myself. Was it joyful remembrance from my childhood in France in the 50’s when, before the era of big “help yourself” supermarkets, you had similar little stores with shopkeepers selling retail stuff behind a small counter? Was it the insouciance, the living-in-the-moment that I recall from early memories before embarking in the rat race of the industrialized world? I would understand much later, when I took up a spiritual path, that there was more to it than that, such as impressions from past lives that surge from the subconscious and often re-occur in me about Haiti. Haiti’s spell was so strong that not a month passed, before I returned there again, this time on my own. I was to be moving to Burkina Faso in West Africa just two months later for work as a photojournalist. But I HAD to return to Haiti one more time before uprooting myself from ten years in the U.S.A. Why Haiti? What struck me most about Haiti on my first visit was the smiles. Smiles were everywhere – in the city, in the countryside, around the corner, behind the trees. They brightened one’s day and remained imprinted in your mind. And with them came unforgettable generosity and hospitality toward any stranger. After a few visits to Haiti on holidays, I could not resist any longer and, after leaving Africa, I based myself in Port-au-Prince where I lived from 1982 to 2000. During that time I worked for ten years with Reuters News Pictures as

44 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

their photo correspondent. Each time we photographers were in a tough situation, Haitians came to our aid. Their gratitude was comforting. They valued us out there on the front line. We knew we could count on them to pull us through. A year before my departure from Haiti, a mother cat had come to my house, deposited three kittens and left shortly thereafter. Wise mother – I think she was ill and she sensed my passion for felines and that I would take care of them. I raised the three kittens and when it came time to leave due to lack of work, of course I could not leave them behind. We all ended up in New Mexico, USA and started a new life. Eight long years went by before I returned for a visit to the country that had stolen my heart. Haiti had drastically changed and

When people ask me

“Of all the countries you’ve traveled to and places you’ve lived in, which is the place

you like the most?” I inevitably answer

“Haiti.” They look at me dubiously “

- Haiti?? Why?”

I was dumbfounded by what I saw. Three times more cars caused major congestion, thousands of grey concrete houses were encroaching on the mountain sides. But the spell was still there, beckoning me. Certainly, Haiti faces real material challenges, but my own eyes and heart find it so rich – in its strong faith, in its diverse creativity, in its powerful culture and in its people’s hospitality. Haiti is unique and full of beauty. This time though, the beauty of Haiti would reveal itself from below, when speleologist Olivier Testa asked me if there were caves on that mysterious island I was so fond of. Olivier’s passion is caving and he has explored caves all over the world from Cameroon, Gabon and Congo to Patagonian Chile and China. In 2009 we embarked on our first Haitian caving expedition. During that expedition, a magnificent cave was discovered in Bellony, near Pestel (Grand-Anse). Our discovery of that quintessential cave, but also of sites badly degraded, prompted us to launch a project of preservation and promotion of caves in Haiti. Our objective was to preserve the caves and promote responsible ecotourism, in order to help generate revenues for the local people living in these remote regions of Haiti. Ever since that first expedition, I found I just love exploring the wonders underground. Just as Olivier – my nephew - was inspired, as a five-year old boy, with my tales of exploration on camelback among the African ethnic groups and in a canoe with the Wayana Indians in the Amazonian forest, I’ve now been bitten by the caving bug that got him long ago. There are thousands of caves in Haiti waiting to be discovered but just a few hundred have been inventoried, and OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 45

the Nippes Department has a good number of them. Newly created (2003), this department in the southern peninsula of the country is not well known. It is however beautiful with luxuriant vegetation in the Baradères region which reminds me at times of the lushness of the Amazonian forest or the African tropical forest. I remember Captain Jacques Cousteau being very enthralled of the Bay of Baradères when he came to Haiti in 1985. This region was his favorite. Adding its underground heritage to the kindness and hospitality of its people and the Nippes have a winning combination and truly deserve to be

46 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

explored. I’m glad we did. As the plane touches down in Port-au-Prince, I’m shocked back to the here and now. A short flight, just two hours from Ft. Lauderdale where I now live with my one surviving Haitian cat. I have that familiar ‘I’m home’ feeling. From the smiles on the faces around me, I’m know that I’m not alone. When people ask me “Of all the countries you’ve traveled to and places you’ve lived in, which is the place you like the most?” I inevitably answer “Haiti.” They look at me dubiously “- Haiti?? Why?” Yes, Haiti. For its people. For its culture. For its natural beauty. Haiti is a diamond. As with any diamond, you have to chisel out the rough sides. But when you get to the core, you discover the true beauty of the jewel: generous hospitality, resilience, humor, smiles, laughter, creative entrepreneurship, cultural uniqueness. And when you get there, you don’t want to leave. Haiti is not your typical tourist destination, it is a hundred times more interesting. You have to experience it to know. Again and again through the years, Haiti has cast its spell on me in such a way that I’ve always felt part of it. When someone calls me a foreigner, I can’t help but feel shocked inside. Me, une etrangère? (a foreigner?). And to this day, there is no compliment that gives me more pleasure than to hear someone generously say,”Oh toi, tu es haitienne” (“You, you’re Haitian”). I’m proud of Haiti - it’s magic!

general info

PASSPORT & VISA

No visa is required for stays less than 90 days. A valid Passport is mandatory. Visa required only for citizens of Cuba. Dominicans, Colombians and Panamanians do not need a Haitian visa as long as they hold a valid American or Canadian visa.

ELECTRICITY 110 V, 60 cycles, American outlets

CURRENCY

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

INTERNET ACCESS

Major hotels offer Internet access Wi-Fi in public areas & in rooms. Cyber Cafes & Hotspots are available everywhere.

CREDIT CARDS

Visa, MasterCard & American Express accepted in most tourist establishments. Cash Advance is available in some banks and ATMs.

TELEPHONES

Country code for Ha誰ti: 509 Local numbers increased to 8 digits. The first digit indicates whether it is a fixed phone (2) or a mobile phone (3). The three mobile phone carriers have booths at the airport.

MEDICAL CARE

LOCAL AIR TRANSPORT

Several local airlines offer regular flights with aircrafts of up to 19 seats to the following cities: Cap Haitien, Jeremie, Les Cayes, and Port de Paix. Aircrafts and helicopters for air taxi/charter services can also be organized to various other areas of the country.

BANKS

Local & international banks have an extensive urban coverage. A limited number of ATMs is available.

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 47

restaurants 5 Coins

Haitian cuisine 20, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2511 1044 / 2257 0277

Acajou Restaurant & Bar

Café Com' Ça

Fusion Complexe Promenade. Angle Rues Grégoire et Moïse, PV 2943 2014 / 3444 0607

Haitian/international Cuisine Hôtel Montana Rue Frank Cardozo, Bourdon 2940 0585 / 3880 6610

Café de l'Europe

Anba Tonèl, Bar & Grill

Café Terrasse

Haitian Cuisine Angle des Rues Clerveaux et Villate, PV 3403 0822

Assiette Créole Haitian Cuisine 6, Rue Ogé, PV 2 940 0041

Babako

Haitian Cuisine 254. avenue John Brown, Lalue 2813 1912

BreakTIme

Haitian Cuisine 38. Rue Darguin, PV 3515 6262 / 3554 0027

French Cuisine 17. Rue Mangonès. Berthé, PV 3 406 8525 / 3 464 0468 / Fusion 81, Rue Grégoire, PV 2 944-1313

Celeri Rouge

88, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3719 9670 / 3587 9670

Chez Wou

Chinese Cuisine Place Boyer, PV 3777 6625 / 3777 6626

Chicken Fiesta

American and Chinese Cuisine 124. Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2813 9866

Citronelle

Le Coin des Artistes

Domino's Pizza

Le Daily Gourmet Cafe

Haitian Cuisine Shodecosa, 5, Rue des NÎmes 3558 8387 Fast Food 91, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2514 7574 / 2813 1446

Emina's Garden

Italian Cuisine 36, Rue Magny, PV 3747 1177 / 2816 2005

Fior Di Latte

Italian Cuisine Choucoune Plaza, Angle des Rues Lamarre et Chavannes, PV 2813 0445

Buffet Rue Roumain off Tabarre Maison Handal across Parc Canne a Sucre. Email: Ledailycafe@gmail.com 3411 5274

Le Florville

Haitian Cuisine Kenscoff 3551 3535 / 3449 6161

Le P'tit Creux

il Vigneto

Haitian Cuisine 87, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 3892 / 2942 3893

HANG Sports Bar & Grill

Italian Cuisine 88, route de Kenscoff, Laboule 12 3410 7219

Italian Cuisine 7, Rue Rigaud, PV 3419 2050 / 3736 5414 American Cuisine 31, Rue Rigaud, PV +509 2 942 4264

Intrigue

Italian Cuisine Hôtel Ibo Lélé, Montagne Noire, PV 2940 8504

Kay Atizan

Haitian Cuisine 43, Rue Magny, PV 3456 6989 / 3452 1772

L'Olivier

Haitian Cuisine 37, route Montagne Noire 3455 4454 / 3467 0707

La Coquille

Haitian Cuisine 10, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 5225 / 3466 3908

La Plantation French Cuisine Rue Borno, Bois Moquette 22941 6334

La Réserve - ATH

Fusion 2, Rue Marcel Toureau, Berthé, PV 2940 0190

La Souvenance French Cuisine 48, Rue Geffrard, PV 3475 9795

La Table de Cauis

16, Rue Legitime, Champs de Mars 2940 7227

Le Christo Villa Russo Angle Rues Faubert & Ogé, 3736 4166

48 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

Haitian Cuisine 59, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3747 1163

Le Paris St Tropez

Le Relais de Chateaublond Fusion Par Historique de la Canne a Sucre 3 449-7407 rachelhyppolite@yahoo.com

Le Toit Blanc

Fusion Route du Saut # 22 4408 0824

Le Villate

12 Rue Villate, PV levillate@gmail.com 3400 1212 / 3 402 1212

Les 3 Decks - ATH

Fusion 3 bis, Fermathe 54, 3418 8511 / 3462 6201

Les Délices Burger Fast Food 97, Rue Grégoire, PV 3646 1600 / 3646 1601

Les Jardins de Gérard 17, Rue Pinchinat, PV 3449 5943

Look-Nun's Thai Restaurant Thai Cuisine 35, Rue Villate, PV 3724 1661

LunchBox

L’Esplanade 2 Rue Darguin, PV lunchboxhaiti@gmail.com 4 412-3138 / 3 781-0012

Magdoos

Mediterranean Cuisine 30, Rue Ogé, PV 3821-2121 / 3733-2525

Mikaz

Sankofa Salads

Mozaik

The Bookstore Cafe & Wine Bar

Fusion 56, Rue Geffrard, PV 2256 2659 / 3727 5951 Fusion 89, Rue Grégoire, PV 3702 3939

Mr. Grill

Steakhouse

39, Rue Rigaud, PV mrgrillsteakhouse@live.com + 509 3114 2524 / 3620 4954

Fast Food 43, Rue Rebecca, PV 2940 6262

Esperanza Building, 87, Rue Grégoire, PV 3774 6729

The Lodge - ATH Fusion

Furcy. après Kenscoff 3458 5968 / 2510 9870

Muncheez

Tiffany Restaurant

Nana’z Sandwich Shack

Vert-Galant

Fast Food 2. Rue Rebecca, PV 3713 1393 / 2942 1392 77 Rue Grégoire Pétion-Ville Haiti 3992 2222 / 3992 2121

O Brasileiro Social Club Fusion 103, Rue Louverture, PV 3813 1050

Océane Bar & Grill

Haitian Cuisine 3 bis. Rue Derenoncourt, PV 2940 2449

Haitian Cuisine Boulevard Harry Truman, Bicentenaire Creole and bistro cuisine 81 avenue Lamartiniere (Bois-Verna) Facebook.com/vertgalant.boisverna 4629 8659

View

Fusion Complexe Le Belvédère. Angle des Rues Chavannes & Clerveaux, PV | 3632 7706

Papaye

Fusion 48. Rue Métellus, PV 3558 2707 / 3771 3678

Pizza Garden

Italian Cuisine 36, Rue Chavannes, PV 2 813 2100 / 2 813 2200

Presse Café

Haitian Cuisine 28, Rue Rigaud, PV 3701 0092

Quartier Latin

Fusion 10, Rue Goulard Place Boyer, PV 3460 3326 / 3445 3325

Rebo Expresso

Fast Food / Coffee 25, Rue Métellus, PV 2949 0505

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 49

travel companion Ouanga Bay Auberge du Rayon Vert

Côte Atlantique Hostellerie du Roi Christophe-ATH (Cap Haitien) hotroi24@yahoo.com 3 687 8915

Résidence Royale-ATH

(Cap Haitien) golfromes@hotmail.com +509 3602-6676 / 2942- 0540

Hotel Beck

Bel-Air, Cap-Haitien (509) 3770-3659 / 3394-0909

Hôtel Mont Joli-ATH

(Cap Haitien) hotelmontjoli@gmail.com +509 2943-1110 / 2942-6975

Auberge du Picolet-ATH

(Cap Haitien) auberge.picolet@gmail.com + 509 2945- 5595 / 3438-6357

Hôtel Beaux Rivages-ATH (Cap Haitien) beaurivagehotel@yahoo.fr +509 2262-3114 / 3682-5583

Cormier Plage-ATH

cormier@hughes.net +509 3702-0210 / 3804- 6673

Côte Caraïbe Cap Lamandou (Jacmel)

+509 2941-4000 +509 3720-1892 3920-9135 / 3720-1436 caplamandouhotel@yahoo.fr

Hôtel Villa Ban Yen

(Petit-Goâve-Vallue) absept60@yahoo.fr +509 3420-2091 / 3941-2091

Auberge du Mont Saint Jean

(Vallée de Jacmel) aubergesaintjean@yahoo.com +509 3702-0510 3707-0605 / 3401-1789

L’Amitié Guest House :

(Port-Salut) aubergedurayonvert@yahoo.fr www.aubergedurayonvert.com +509 3713-9035 / 3779- 1728

Dan’s creek

(Port-Salut) danscreekhotel@gmail.com www.danscreekhotel.com +509 3614-8143 / 3664- 0404

Relais du Boucanier

(Port-Salut) lerelaisduboucanier@hotmail.com www.leboukanier.com +509 3558- 1806 / 3720-1144 3702- 1066 / 3554-1806

El Rancho-ATH

valnuma@yahoo.fr +509 3454-0027 / 3727-3589

Hotel Kabic Beach Club (Jacmel) www.kabicbeachclub.com/ +509 3780-6850

Hotel l'Ermitage de Pandiassou-ATH

(Hinche) 3472 -5934 / 3474-1599 3741-8753 lermitagedepandiassou@yahoo. com

Hotel Maguana (Hinche) 2277-0528

Wozo Plaza

(Mirebalais) 3455-7730/ 2942-1256 wozoplazahotel@yahoo.fr

50 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

Port Morgan-ATH

(Ile a Vache) portmorgan@hughes.net, www.port-morgan.com +509 3921-0000 3922-0001 / 3663-5154

Manolo Inn

Habitation Hatt-ATH

Delmas 31, Airport Rd 509 3452 9480 / 2940 0135 International: 954 776-1515 sachasaieh@hotmail.com lamermotel@bellsouth.net

Ibo Lélé-ATH

elsabaussan@yahoo.com, +509 2514- 0166 2940- 8503

Côte des Arcadins Kaliko-ATH

kalikobeachclub@hotmail.com +509 2940 4609 / 4640 2223

Wahoo Bay-ATH

wahoo@dadesky.com +509 3735- 2536/ 3735-2831

Moulin sur Mer-ATH

info@moulinsurmer.com + 509 3701- 1918 2813- 1042 / 3702- 1918

(Petite Rivière de Nippes) lemanoloinn@mac.com +509 3461-7108 3768-2059 / 3752- 3838 3727- 0201

Club Indigo- ATH

Hôtel du Village (Port-Salut)

Xaragua Hôtel- ATH

portsaluthotelduvillage@yahoo.fr +509 3713- 9035

5, rue Jose Marti, Avenue des Hôtels, PV 2 944 0707

9, Imp Hérard, Delmas 75 lejardinauberge@yahoo.fr +509 2813-8008, +509 3486-6966

(Marigot- Jacmel) lacollineenchantee@gmail.com +509 3703-0448 / 3701-96 97

Cyvadier Plage (Cyvadier- Jacmel)

Centre

3, Rue Berthol, Delmas 19 509 3179 3752 International: 954 241 3699 coconutvillahotel@prodigy.net

Hôtel Le Jardin-ATH

La Colline Enchantée

(Ile a Vache) abakabay@hotmail.com +509 3721-3691 / 3683- 6253 www.abakabay.com

#30 Angle Rue Metellus et Ogé, PV 3 671 5603 / 3 435 5603 info@allamandahaiti.com www.allamandahaiti.com

Le Recul (Camp Perrin)

(Camp Perrin) +509 3739-2800

Hotel Florita

Abakabay

Allamanda

Coconut Villa-ATH

Aldy Hôtel- ATH (Aquin) nancyecomeau@yahoo.fr +509 3458-2566 / 3741-0532

hotelcyvadier@hughes.net +509 3844-8264 3482-2585 / 3844- 8265

Port-au-Prince

Auberge du canal d’Avezac Levy

(Ti Mouillage, Cayes Jacmel) (509) 2942-7156 / 3417-7582 (Historic District of Jacmel) +509 3785-5154 / 2274-2015 info@hotelflorita.com www.hotelflorita.com

ouangabay@hotmail.com +509 3756- 5212 3932-5810

contact@clubindigo.net, reservations@clubindigo.net + 509 3651-1000 3650-1000 / 3441-1000 lexaraguahotel@yahoo.fr +509 2510-9559 / 3795- 5983

Ideal Villa Hôtel-ATH Delmas 53 # 6 f1berthold@yahoo.com +509-2943-0470

Karibe Hôtel-ATH

info@karibehotel.com 3701-1138 / 3701- 1140 www.karibehotel.com

Kinam Hôtel-ATH

info@hotelkinam.com , reservation@hotelkinam.com +509 2944- 6000 / 2945- 6000 ww.hotelkinam.com

Kingdom Hotel

Tabarre 36 19, Rue Sol Solon 3 455-7822 / 2 943-2385

La Réserve Guest House-ATH

+509 3452-3065 / 3510- 5026

Le Montcel-ATH

(Kenscoff- Belot) montcel@aol.com/ www.montcelhaiti.com +509 3701-4777 3701-1744 / 3702-7202

Le Ritz-ATH

apartement@hotelkinam.com catering@hotelkinam.com +509 2943- 0303

Le Plaza-ATH

info@plazahaiti.com, reservations@plazahaiti.com +509 2814 6000 www.plazahaiti.com

Montana Suite Horizon-ATH Rue F. Cardozo +509 3880 6610

Palms Résidence

palm.events@gmail.com +509 3706-7342 / 3454-0053

Paradis des Receptions & Hotel Frere 29 2 940-6624

Prince Hôtel--ATH

princehotelha@yahoo.com +509 2517- 0597 3791- 1549/ 2944- 0422

Servotel

www.servotelhaiti.com info@servotelhaiti.com +509 2812-7500

Art Galleries

The Inn at Villa Bambou

Collection Flamboyant Galerie d’Art

The Lodge-ATH

Expressions Art Gallery

Port-au-Prince +509 2 813-1724 www.villabambouhaiti.com Furcy +509 2510 9870 3458 5968

The Palm Inn Hotel Delmas 31 3, Rue Hatte 3 2 513-4810 / 2 519-0700 www.palminnhotel.net

Villa Créole--ATH

villacreol@aol.com +509 2941- 1570 / 2941- 1571 2941- 0965 / 2941- 1040

Villa Ban-Yen

Value (between Grand Goave & Petit Goave) hotelvillabanyen@yahoo.com +509 3420-2091/2941-2091

Visa Lodge-ATH

services@visalodge.com +509 2813- 0777 / 2510- 3424 www.visalodge.com

9 Rue Darguin¸PV Mimv54@yahoo.com.mx 3 909-9231 / 3 555-9398

55, Rue Metellus, PV 2 256-3471 / 3 558-7584 admin@expressionsgaleriedart.com www.expressionsgaleriedart.com

Festival Arts

43, Rue Magny, PV 3 551-7311 / 3 401-3171 festivalhaiti@yahoo.fr

Galerie Marassa-ATH

17, Rue Lamarre, PV 3 558-8484 / 4 739-2923 galeriemarassa@yahoo.com www.galeriemarassa.com

Galerie Monnin-ATH

19, Rue Lamarre, PV 2 257-4430 / 3 680-3240 galeriemonnin@galeriemonnin.com www.galeriemonnin.com

Galerie Nader

50, Rue Grégoire, PV 2 257-0855 / 3 709-0222 galerienader@hotmail.com www.galerienader.com

L’Atelier Boutique Fondation Theard

Fermathe 59 2 513-9874

Les Ateliers Jerôme

68, Angle des Rues Rebecca & Lamarre, PV 2 513-5362 / 3 705-6825 lesateliersjerome@yahoo.fr www.lesateliersjerome.com

Receptive Operators Agence Citadelle American Express Travel - ATH info@agencecitadelle.com +509 2940 5900 / 3445 5900 www.agencecitadelle.com

Go Haiti Tours

info@gohaititours.com +509 2941 0742

Uniglobe - ATH

uniglobe@haine.net +509 2941 0742

Voyages Lumière - ATH voyageslumierehaiti@gmail.com + 509 3607 1321 www.voyageslumiere.com

Voyages Plus Cap-ATH

vpcap1@gmail.com +509 3443 0823 / 2940 0484

OCTOBER 2012 MAGIC HAITI 51

Car Rental Avis

20, Rue Mais Gaté, Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2229 6399/ 2941 5555

Budget Rent-a-Car

Angle Rue Léonard & Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1094 / 3856 4988

Dollar Rent-a-Car

Blvd Toussaint Louverture, Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1800 / 3724 0950

Europcar

13, Blvd Jean-Jacques Dessalines, PAP + 509 2518 5555 / 2518 5556

Hertz

Route de l’Aéroport + 509 3779 0700 / 2816 0700

Secom

564, Route de Delmas + 509 2942 2940 / 2942 2941

Airlines Aerolineas Mas

+ 509 3704 4560 www.aerolineasmas.com

Air Caraïbes - ATH

Air Canada

Air France - ATH

Agence Citadelle – ATH

Capital Coach Lines

American Airlines

Chatelain Tours – ATH

Caribe Tours

Francheco Agence de Voyage – ATH

Terra Bus

+ 509 3115 5000 www.airfrance.com

info@agencecitadelle.com +509 2940 5900 / 3445-5900

+509 2229 6000 www.aa.com

chatelaintours@hotmail.com +509 3701-4570

Continental Airlines www.continental.com

Copa Air

+509 2940 2326 / 29402327 www.copaair.com

Delta Airlines- ATH

+509 2943 3582/2816 1666

franchecoav@hotmail.com +509 2940 1168 Goeland Voyages – ATH goelandvoyages@yahoo.com +509-2511 3883

info@capitalcoachline.com +509 2 512 5989 / 3 455 1777 caribetours@gmail.com +509 2 257 9379 /3 785 1946 chatour@hotmail.com

Airport Shuttle Service

Airport Express

Insel Air International- ATH

Harmony Tours & Travel Agency – ATH

Mission Aviation Fellowship

Multivision Agence de voyage – ATH

Obonsoins

Napolitano Travel Service

Pharmacie du Boulevard

+ 509 3445 5902

Pharmacies

harmony@harmony-tta.com +509 2813-0533

+509 2813 0403 www.fly-inselair.com +509-3791-9209 www.mafhaiti.org

Multivision.voyage@yahoo.com +509 2941-0110

SALSA d’Haiti

Toussaint Louverture Int’l airport +509-2813-1222

Spirit Airlines

+ 509 2940 4421 / 2940 4422 www.spirit.com

Tortugair

+ 509 2812 8000

Turks & Caicos Airways

+509 2813 1037 www.aircaraibes.com

Transborder Bus Lines

Travel Agencies

+509 2810 5857 www.aircanada.com

www.airturksandcaicos.com

107, Rue Louverture, PV + 509 2512 5260 / 3800 3737

– ATH

1, Angle Blvd. du 15 Octobre & Rue D. Lespinasse, PAP + 509 3459 6553 / 3808 9050

Sans Souci Agence de voyage – ATH

Pharmaximum

napolitanotravel@yahoo.com +509 2940-0750 / 2940-1402

mpetoia@gmail.com +509 1813-1564

Uniglobe – ATH

uniglobe@hainet.net +509 3607 1321

12, Rue Ogé, PV + 509 2816 0116

Polyclinique 48

408, Auto Route de Delmas OPEN 24/7 + 509 2942-0068 / 3694-2078

ATH MEMBERS Agence Citadelle Air Caraïbes Air France Air Transat / HAMASERCO S.A. Aldy Hôtel Auberge du Rayon Vert B&B Comfy Inn Ballet Bacoulou d’Haïti Berling S.A. / Rhum Vieux Labbé Blue Mango S.A. Brasserie La Couronne Cap Travel Service CARABIMMO S.A. (Best Western) Ceramex S.A. Châtelain Tours Club Indigo 52 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012

Coconut Villa Hôtel Coles Distributions S.A. Cormier Plage Culinary by Design Delta Airlines Dynamic Car Rentals S.A. / HERTZ Encocha S.A. Francheco Agence de Voyage Galerie Marassa Galerie Monnin Goeland Agence de Voyage Habitation Hatt Harmony Tours & Travel Agency Hôtel El Rancho Hôtel Ibo Lélé Hôtel Karibe

Hôtel l’Ermitage de Pandiassou Hôtel Le Xaragua Hôtel Villa Créole Idéal Villa Hôtel Imprimerie Henri Deschamps Insel Air IPHASA S.A. Jardin sur mer Kaliko Beach Kinam Hôtel La Réserve Guest House Le Montcel Le Plaza Hôtel Le Relais du Chateaublond Le Ritz Les 3 Decks

Montana Hôtel Mosaïques Gardère Moulin sur mer Multivision Agence de Voyage NABATEC S.A. Napolitano Travel Service Navette S.A. Papaye Restaurant Palm Résidence Parc Historique Canne à Sucre Port Morgan Prince Hôtel Quartier Latin REBO Expresso Rêves et Voyages Royal Oasis

Sans Souci Agence de Voyage Secom S.A. SirepTours Société du Rhum Barbancourt Société Labadie Nord (SOLANO) Sogecarte The Lodge The Petionville Club Uniglobe S.A. UNIPRO Visa Lodge Voyage Plus Cap Voyages Lumière Wahoo Bay Beach

4 MAGIC HAITI OCTOBER 2012