DAILY COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
AUTUMN WINTER 2017
A MESSAGE
OF LOVE GANNI
THE DAWN OF
KREJBERG IVAN GRUNDAHL
COOL TO CARE
BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
WORTH
THE WAIT HENRIK VIBSKOV
DOLLHOUSE
DREAMS CECILIE BAHNSEN
THURSDAY EDITION
THURSDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 2
“COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK IS AN IMPORTANT WINDOW TO THE INTERNATIONAL MARKET” MARGRETHE VESTAGER —
Margrethe Vestager is a Danish politician, currently serving as European Commissioner for Competition. Vestager has attended Copenhagen Fashion Week a number of times during her tenure as Danish Minister of Economic Affairs and the Interior. Vestager’s fashion week highlight is the By Malene Birger show at Hotel D’Angleterre in August 2014.
And then the export of Danish fashion has a significant impact on the total Danish exports and thus on the Danish economy as a whole. The latest report I have seen shows that Danish fashion makes up approximately four percent of our total exports. In itself, this is a very substantial reason to position yourself on the global fashion scene.”
How do you view the Danish fashion week in a European and international perspective?
“Danish and Scandinavian fashion have a lot to offer. The combination of big companies and small entrepreneurs; this is a really great mix and something that makes Copenhagen Fashion Week special. Copenhagen Fashion Week is an important window to the international market. It is a week that increases revenue for the industry as well as for Copenhagen. At the end of the day, this contributes to growth and job creation in a Danish context.”
What do you look the most forward to following this fashion week?
“Unfortunately, I can’t see any shows this season – but I will be following from the side line and looking for ambition, confidence, smile, and courage to set the agenda!”
Why is it important for Denmark and Scandinavia to position themselves on the world fashion map?
“Danish fashion has a big international influence. We are talented when it comes to design, colours, and textures, which makes our design products special. We have a unique expression.
CONTRIBUTORS
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Camilla Frank
COPY EDITOR Louis Francisco Vernal
COVER PHOTO Elisabeth Eibye
DISTRIBUTION Agnethe Schultz
MANAGING EDITOR Frederik Højgaard
WRITERS Lotte Freddie, Courtney Forrest, Hege Badendyck, Marie Jedig, Line Hindsgaul, Marlene Tolbod Jakobsen, Magnus Jorem & Safiya Ismaili
PHOTOGRAPHERS Helena Lundquist, Elisabeth Eibye All catwalk photos by Helle Moos, Tom Mckenzie and Peter Håkansson
PRINT Trykkompagniet
ART DIRECTOR Thomas Blankschøn
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SALES Linda Ava Laursen
PUBLISHER Copenhagen Fashion Week
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YOUR DAILY DOSE OF RECOMMENDATIONS FOR COPENHAGEN
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TROPICAL THURSDAY Admitted, Danish winter weather can be a bit dreary. And cold. If you wish to take a break from it, and be transported into an entirely different world – one that is warm with a hint of wildlife jungle– you should visit Glyptoteket. Glyptoteket is a museum for Mediterranean art as well as Danish and French art from the 19th century. Besides its unique collections, it has a tropical winter garden, that will set the mind travelling to exotic and far-away places. Thursdays are open until 10 PM, so there’s plenty of time to wander the museum halls, post the trade fair’s opening hours. Ny Carlsberg Glyptoteket Dantes Plads 7 1556 København K
TAKE ME TO
CHURCH
Copenhagen’s International Fashion Fair, CIFF, once again hosts a number of curated projects and collaborations at the Bella Centre. Among the contributors are THIS IS NOT CLOTHING, BEAMS X Yu Nagaba, 424 X ARMES, and Samuel Ross & Jobe Burns, all exhibiting in the RAVEN area. Also, this year CIFF have their very own show scene, putting on the production of some of the most promising Danish menswear brands such as Tonsure, Han Kjøbenhavn, and Martin Asbjørn.
Farmers market and food hall in one, Torvehallerne, offers something for every taste bud. With more than 60 restaurateurs, produce stalls, tea- and coffeemakers, bakeries, juice bars, butchers, cheese makers, and fishmongers gathered under one roof, Torvehallerne is the ultimate take-away place to go to. You can also stay and eat your food in one of the many cosy corners and take in the atmosphere of local Copenhageners coming to pick up dinner or do some grocery shopping. Even if not hungry do yourself a favour and browse around the many aisles of delicacies stacked from floor to ceiling.
This once-upon-a-time-church was bought by a Danish businessman a couple of years ago, with the mission to create a space for everyone. Absalonkirken calls itself an extended version of a living room, which means that all of the activities going on there, are all about coming together and join in on being a part of the greater community. The schedule is always filled with a bunch of daily events, such as yoga classes in the morning and weekly chess and Backgammon tournaments. And every night at 6 PM, Absolonkirken is open for anyone who wants to drop in and eat dinner at the humble price of 50 DKK or approx. €7. You don’t have to make a reservation and the concept is simple: Large dishes will be passed down the long community tables having everyone sharing the food.
Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 DK 2300 Copenhagen S
Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 DK 2300 Copenhagen S
Absolonkirken Sønder Boulevard 73 1720 København V
FA SH ION FORWARD TAKE AWAY HEAVEN THE DAILY
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What are the three most important things to notice about the new collection?
What is the first thing you do after the show?
Toning down of exclusive materials, for instance by using bouclé to create a street wear look.
I have a drink, hug my mamma and everyone who helped out.
Graphic elements.
ELAINE HERSBY NOMINATED BY: HENRIK VIBSKOV SHOW: THURSDAY 2 FEBRUARY 16.00
Flexibility for movement. What is your favourite piece from the AW17 collection?
Definitely the bouclé down jacket. What do you look the most forward to about setting up a show?
I look forward to showing what we have been working on and seeing people’s reaction.
How do you prepare for fashion week – do you have a ritual?
The final week I try to relax and do some things I enjoy that aren’t related to fashion. What would you recommend the visitors of fashion week to experience while they’re in Copenhagen?
Januar y is a pretty grey month but the city ’s architecture is beautiful in foggy weather. Who would you like to nominate for tomorrow?
Astrid Andersen.
FASHION
WEEK
WISH
LIST
TRADE FAIR
TALK
MARGRETHE DAHL BUYING DIRECTOR, MAGASIN How do you prepare for a day at the trade fairs?
I always begin before the trade fairs by inviting key people from Copenhagen Fashion Week to Magasin where we will be presenting new initiatives for the upcoming fashion week for an audience of 50 buyers, merchandisers, designers etc. This fashion week, Camilla Frank (CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week) and Kristian Andersen (Fashion & Design Director of CIFF and North Modern) will stop by Magasin to give us a presentation on what’s new this season. I start by making an overview of the shows that I have the time to attend. Unfortunately, the fashion week is short so I don’t have time to see all the shows as I make it a priority to do a tour of both trade fairs from beginning to end. I do this to see all the new styles, trends and most of all to greet all of the many partners that we have at Magasin. What does your day at the trade fairs look like?
To the extent possible, I try to not have any specific appointments seeing as I want to walk through all the trade fair halls within the menswear, womenswear, lingerie, shoes, acces-
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sories and childrenswear categories. I like to have the freedom to stop and review the individual designers and brands, say hi to new and existing partners and get their point of view on the “must-haves” of the seasons. I walk quite a few kilometres on those days, and now that the shows take place during the day, I need to fit that into my schedule. In the evening, I go to dinner with my colleagues and partners from the industry in between the shows. What do you always bring in your purse to the trade fairs?
Water, lip gloss, my clutch and cell phone so that I can follow the program and the shows. What do you look the most forward to experiencing this season at the trade fairs?
I always look forward to seeing the latest trends and tendencies and especially what the new talents have come up with. What has inspired them and who has the potential to make it big on the Danish as well as the international scene. I look very much forward to seeing Cecilie Bahnsen’s show, she won DANSK Design Talent Magasin Prisen this autumn. She makes the most beautiful collections that I’m excited to see in action on the stage.
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AIAYU
Aiayu is a luxury knitwear brand, founded on love for materials and nature. The brand sees itself as merely refining what nature has already beautifully designed and from day one, sustainability has been a core value. For Aiayu, product origin is key to their concept. It draws on the expertise of local people whose artisan skills are passed from generation to generation. Through Danida, the brand has been able to support its local Bolivian manufacturer with machines and skills. Aiayu makes sure that workers are employed legally, have unions, and are secured a minimum wage. In India its certified organic cotton factory has a zero-waste program, creating the least possible harm to the environment. The brand is opening its first boutique in the heart of Copenhagen, this March. 5
ORGANIC DOGS
Saks Potts two-tone shearling coat, net-a-porter.com
LISA AIKEN RETAIL FASHION DIRECTOR, NET-A-PORTER ”This Saks Potts shearling jacket is a musthave. A coat is always an investment piece, but why should investment pieces be boring? Far rather have an item that you will treasure forever as you will never find anything like it again.”
Pølsevogne (the Danish word for sausage trucks) can be found on almost any major street or square. Den Økologiske Pølsemand (the organic hot dog man) offers a high quality, organic version of the classical Danish hot dog. Their offer includes the classics (sausage and bread, French hot dog) but also more unconventional things such as mashed root vegetables and vegetarian sausages. The standard white bread is replaced with slow-fermented, sourdough bread. Den Økologiske Pølsemand Købmagergade 52A 1150 København K THE DAILY
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FEBRUARY 2
A SEASONED DEBUTANTE CECILIE BAHNSEN
Her very first collection was sold to the leading concept store, Dover Street Market, every design school graduates wildest dream, but then again Cecilie is not your average graduate having already worked for fashion names such as John Galliano and Erdem.
and are only interrupted by a couple of wide pants in either silk or heavy satin quilt. Everything is kept in a modest colour scheme, but the devil is in the detail and applies perfectly for this collection. What at first glimpse seems simple, young, and girly is in fact a very detailed collection and shows impressive craftsmanship: such as the cut-out laces that adorns the hem of the crispy white cotton dresses and wide legged pants.
So when she won the prestigious Dansk Design Talent Magasin Award in the fall and thus her spot on the official Copenhagen Fashion Week calendar, she already had an impressive resume. Her wining collection consisted of a series of mini dresses in black and white, in beautiful lace and appliquĂŠ embroidery, highly detailed craftsmanship that took the panel of judges by storm. This season she continues her fascination with the baby-doll dress.
Other items are fully decorated with little tassels or drawstrings tied around wrists or as a way to close a top or a dress in the back, that balances out voluminous shapes - shapes and silhouettes that are not outright commercial but for sure will find their way into the wardrobes of discerning fashionistas.
The silhouettes are either a-shaped mini dresses or cape-like gowns
Time: 12.00 Place: Takkelloftet, Operaen Words: Line Hindsgaul
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FEBRUARY 2
IT’S A MOD WORLD BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
These are heady times for Baum und Pferdgarten, with the appointment of new CEO Teis Bruun and the steady growth of the brand’s commercial success. In a preview at the brand’s showroom, Creative Directors Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave excitedly talked about “future possibilities, new adventures and directions.” The evolution, or perhaps revolution, of the Baum girl begins with its Autumn/Winter 2017 collection “Young and Rebellious”, inspired by 1960’s mod style and culture, celebrating the idea that “it’s actually cool to care – about what you wear and how you look, but also about what’s happening in the world.” A refreshingly diverse cast of models – including the designers’ two teenage daughters – hit the catwalk at The Lab, an old warehouse turned photo studio, to music by underground Norwegian band Smerz. Whereas last season’s girl was of the more saccharine sorority variety, this time she’s a
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bit tougher – think the transformation of “Sandra Dee” to “Sandy” in Grease. Hallmark prints and quirky detailing on luxe silks, lace, organza and cotton in a strong palette of deep green, rust, purple and signature blue, will once again be a big hit with the Insta-influencers who peppered the crowd, as will the logo tees and brightly-colored faux-fur fanny packs. There was an increased focus on outerwear, ranging from oversized “stolen from granny’s closet” faux-furs, to more tailored classic wool and houndstooth coats, slick trench coats and biker jackets, and THE perfect parka. The styling had an attitude and fresh perspective we’ve not seen before from Baumgarten and Hestehave, and echoes the female empowerment movement happening in society at the moment. Pitch perfect.
Time: 15.00 Place: The Lab Words: Courtney Forrest
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SÅDAN ER DET GÅET
VINDERNE AF DANSK DESIGN TALENT - MAGASIN PRISEN En præmie på 500.000 kr. og et modeshow ved den Københavnske modeuge kan have stor betydning for en spirende designers karriere. Vi har taget et lille kig på, hvad der er sket med vinderne af DANSK Design Talent – Magasin Prisen, siden de vandt.
ANNE SOFIE MADSEN VINDER 2013 Siden udnævnelsen som årets talent i 2013 har der været vind i sejlene for Anne Sofie Madsen. Hun er nu at finde på den internationale modescene og fremviser sine kollektioner på modeuger over hele verden, blandt andet i Paris og Tokyo.
MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN VINDER 2014 Bare et år efter at den unge designer søsatte sit eget brand, vandt han DANSK Design Talent – Magasin Prisen. Siden har han fået tildelt Kronprinseparrets Stjernedryspris og opnået stor international anerkendelse. Brandet Mark Kenly Domino Tan er derfor efterhånden blevet et kendt high-end brand med en lang række ekstravagante kreationer til den moderne kvinde.
CECILIE BAHNSEN VINDER 2016
TONSURE VINDER 2015 Da Tonsure vandt Talent-prisen fik modebranchen for alvor øjnene op for brandets karakteristiske herretøjskollektioner, der i dag forhandles i Magasin. Siden er det gået stærkt for designduoen, der nu er nået ud over de danske grænser og blevet et etableret navn i både Europa og Japan. I Japan især, hvor modebilledet er præget af eklektiske stilarter, er herretøjsmærket Tonsure blevet anerkendt for at skabe wow effekt med dets danske minimalisme. Tonsure forhandles i dag i Magasin.
Siden kåringen af DANSK Design Talent – Magasin Prisen 2016, har vinderen Cecilie Bahnsen fået spået en stor fremtid i den danske og internationale modebranche. I år har hun for første gang vist sin kollektion under den Københavnske modeuge, som er en del af præmien fra DANSK Design Talent – Magasin Prisen. Cecilie vandt designkonkurrencen for sine kreationer der med de fineste håndlavede blonder og sløjfer emmede af enkel og ren feminitet. Magasin ønsker endnu engang Cecillie tillykke med designtalent prisen.
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FEBRUARY 2
GREENLAND GRUNGE TONSURE
Mix old school pieces with classic tailoring and add a touch of stage wears – then you have Tonsure. A perfect example that you do not necessarily need much to tell a story when you have the right story to tell:
ing having the shorthaired model Amalie Rose walking down the runway as one of the guys. Sealskin in beautiful blue and silver grey nuances used in the collection for jackets, trousers, and details add a final touch to the scenery, defining the universe.
A living sky on canvas and a wide floor sets the settings, the lights go out and the sound of a woman heavily breathing and live beat boxing begins and culminates with beautiful, indefinable sounds of singing. The feeling of being brought to Greenland, waiting for an old ritual happen fills the room.
Bringing the 80’s grunge to Greenland this season, Tonsure manages to capture something as rare as menswear that are both wearable and interesting and somehow makes us want to wear clogs for shoes as a fashion statement, which indeed is a great achievement.
The silhouettes, a great contrast between tailored suits and coats and voluminous padded trousers, and a colour palette of orange, red, navy, black, and blue. Furthermore, Tonsure strikes a blow for unisex cloth-
Time: 13.00 Place: CIFF Words: Marie Jedig
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FEBRUARY 2
LA PETITE PROVOCATRICE FREYA DALSJØ
Somehow the combination of the old classical traditional Hotel D’Angleterre and the forward-thinking – trending towards the avant garde – designer Freya Dalsjø, is not the obvious connection one makes as for presenting a show. But Freya, never the ordinary, always the provocative creature deliberately chose “The Grand White Lady” for presenting her A/W17 collection. Indeed the presentation was different, camp in a way, with Celine Dion singing “I’m Your Lady” and Zucchero/Paul Young “Senza Una Donna” as a tongue in cheek, or lovingly sensuous, accompaniments to the clothes. ‘Some were, like everywhere – sometimes cut in asymmetrical lines, one as half an apron skirt, and high waisted jackets in ivory or steel were given an ample swinging peplum. A big message was square pointed shoulders and pointed collars or hips, as well as a colour-contrasting panel edged with buttons down the back of silk dresses. Abso-
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lutely gorgeous in a pale, orchid lilac, loose A-line dress with an ivory back panel. Freya’s collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur this time surpassed anything they have mastered before: Psychedelic pink rose patterns in sheared mink that have been cut into tiny tiny pieces to appear as paintings. A shining scarlet red mink coat is simply dead stunning and bound to be everyone’s dream. Sometimes the clothes didn’t fit, maybe because the collection was made for different measurements and was shown on “alternative” models. “Ordinary” women, in order to make Freya’s point – that you don’t have to be super perfect; everybody can wear her clothes, also the – on purpose - ill fitting laissez faire shirts. As well as the feminine sensual design that will appeal to supers as well as the ordinary housewife.
Time: 16.00 Place: Hotel D’Angleterre Words: Lotte Freddie
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THE LOVE SOCIETY GANNI
To the tunes of ‘Mad World’ and a backdrop with the words ‘Love Society’ written in pink neon lights, Ganni opened the show with quite a statement. This collection, which Designer Ditte Refstrup calls one of her most personal and important, is a message of love and reflection inspired by the world’s current political conflicts and climate changes. An important yet heavy message for a dressed up fashion crowd, who seemed to truly love this collection - and one can’t blame them. This collection is probably Ganni’s best to date. Drawing references from everything from ‘The Little House on the Prairie’ with its long and virtuous highneck dresses, denim dungarees and box trousers, to American pop-culture with platform sneakers, in red patent leather, hoodies, and leather jackets. A rather absurd combina-
tion that works perfectly together. Colours were earthy, consisting mostly of browns and greens, with hints of lilac, black, navy, and red. Every outfit was completed with a pair of bright red patent leather shoes. Especially the pointy flats with bows gave a cool and fresh edge to a romantic and quite nostalgic collection. If the message of love wasn’t already clear, all you had to do was take a closer look at all the little hearts that had made its way into the collection. Embroidered on a sweater, printed on socks, and as sequined hearts on a black dress. To close the show supermodels Nadja Bender and Lera Abova gave the collection one last pinch of international feel. Because that’s how this Ganni collection felt: Cool and with an international vibe and like something every girl from Copenhagen to New York would love to wear.
Time: 17.00 Place: Refshalevej 173A Words: Line Hindsgaul
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FEBRUARY 2
FINNISH AVANT GARDE DESIGNERS´ NEST
Why is it that the judges at Designers’ Nest often tend to pick the most difficultly wearable clothes for the winning prize? After all the criteria for the design competition, founded by Jan Carlsen in 2003, are innovation, creativity, craftsmanship, and commercial possibilities. The demands for innovation and creativity are definitely fulfilled this time, but the commercial possibilities are hard to imagine in most of the four winning collections.
as usual presented the winner, with the Designer’s Nest honours – to Reea Maria Peltola from Aalto University of Art & Design, Finland who won the first prize for long layers of red ruffles and Anna Sarasoja, also from Finland’s Aalto University of Art & Design who came in second. Hers was a really beautiful and striking collection in black and white – a great well made black coat over black trousers and a black asymmetrical wrap skirt over a long, white shirt. This certainly had commercial possibilities.
This season actually was a good vintage; many really creative and well-made ideas were paraded on Hotel D’Angleterre’s catwalk where 20 students from design schools in Denmark, Iceland, Sweden, and Finland competed for the winning prize of 50.000 Danish kroner. Finland was the big winner - The Crown Princess Mary, straight from the opening of Copenhagen Fashion Week at The Guildhall,
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Sissel Kärneskog from Beckmans College of Design, Sweden took third prize for a pretty pale blue long full dress with a full cape collar and a rather strange suit painted a red, blue, and white abstract motif, but a finale ought to have finished the show.
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Time: Tuesday, 16.00 Place: Hotel D’Angleterre Words: Lotte Freddie
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LIKE A PRAYER DOMANOFF
Ukraine-based DOMANOFF presented its debut Copenhagen Fashion Week AW17 women’s and men’s collection entitled “Pray” to an eclectic crowd at Hotel D’Angleterre.
It is clear the hygge memo circling the globe has reached Odessa. Knits were sumptuous and luxe, luxe, luxe -- cocoon pull-overs, sweater dresses and separates were relaxed and cosy without sacrificing shape; however the tartan became a bit repetitive.
The brand’s slogan is “clothes must have soul.” Perhaps, but they must also be wearable – and this collection was, with a capital “W”.
Time: 11.00 Location: Hotel D’Angleterre Words: Courtney Forrest
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Never has the term “sweatsuit” been more apt, with traditional suiting materials reworked into elevated-athleisure. Mixed-media leather/ wool and lattice-work layered with silk chiffon for textural juxtaposition. The Scandi-friendly palette of black, white, grey, and navy was given an injection of gold glamour -- including a metal collar that will likely be an editorial favorite.
The designers’ have an incredibly deft hand – expert draping created languid, effortless movement on typically rigid wools and tweeds; precise, razor-sharp cuts innovated crisp cotton classics; Japanese-inspired wrapping techniques gave proportion to loose silhouettes.
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FEBRUARY 2
THE NEW GRUNDAHL IVAN GRUNDAHL
There are always great expectations when a new designer enters a fashion house. Especially when the brand has held a strong and distinctive identity for so many years and Roy Krejberg, who debuts his first collection for Ivan Grundahl, is the perfect match for the brand. Krejberg is quite an international fashion star, with a long and impressive career in Paris and he appears to feel at home in the avant-garde and the dramatic signature that was the essence of Grundahl universe.
as the great interpretations of the classic tailored blazers, the waistcoat and the all dramatic black velvet gowns finishing the show.
The first part of the show was an homage to nature: models carrying antlers on their shoulders, wearing soft, raw cut fabrics in either all dusty white or washed black.
Beautiful silhouettes, elegant dresses worn over long and slightly flared silk trousers. It seemed everyone, including the hard core Grundahl fans, liked what they saw, resulting in a standing ovation for Krejberg
It was all about layering, raw edges and natural fabrics. The show then smoothly developed a more dramatic universe, with layering in tones of dark grey, heavy black and deep burgundy. A long slick dress with a flower print, white stitching and some black and white striped pieces still added an optimistic feel. There were some outstanding pieces, such
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The outerwear was both interesting and commercial; a fantastic a-lined leather jacket with an oversized neck, and some great kimono-esque down coats and jackets. The knit was bold and heavy, exactly how you want a Grundahl knit to look like. Still it was the layering of heavy, raw cut silk outfits that were the highlights.
Time: 20.00 Place: Papirhallen Words: Hege Badendyck
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THURSDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 2
NO FUCKS GIVEN HAN KJØBENHAVN
Last season’s highly conceptual presentation left even the most devoted Han Kjøbenhavn fans scratching their heads, but its AW17 show, “Rats With Dogs Killing Men” defied all logic and explanation. Guests entered the East Hall at Bella Center to witness four men standing on a gallow with nooses around their neck; by show’s end the men would be hung, execution style, by models dressed as rats in bathrobes. The finale paraded by, the cast came to a stop below the hanging men.
In a preview at the brand’s showroom a few days before the show, founders Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen and Tim Faith Hancock presented one of their strongest, most balanced collections to date – showcasing a wider range of silhouettes, particularly in outerwear, and richer-quality fabrications – wools, tweeds, velvets, furs, cotton, and denim. Graphics, as always, play a significant role – specifically the rat and dog, as sewn-on badges and embroidered jacquard. Han Kjøbenhavn is rooted in the founders’ childhood in the Copenhagen suburbs -- a boyish spirit and “no fucks given” attitude. But, freedom of expression is as much a right as it is a responsibility. If this show had taken place in New York, where the brand has a flagship, they would have been run out of town. They’re too talented for these theatrics. Storytime is over, it’s time to grow up.
The crowd sat in stunned, relative silence, and then one-by-one got up to start taking pictures, which by now have been plastered all over social media. Was that the point? Whatever the intention, it was tone-deaf and tasteless, not to mention completely distracted from the clothes.
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Time: 18.00 Place: CIFF Words: Courtney Forrest
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NATIONAL TREASURE HENRIK VIBSKOV
Time: 21.00 Place: Østre Gasværk Words: Lotte Freddie
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Henrik Vibskov is without comparison Denmark’s most successful designer. In terms of sales points – 200 shops globally, for being the only Danish men’s designer showing in Paris during January’s Men’s Fashion Week, and certainly taking into consideration the future projects Henrik Vibskov is undertaking in 2017: World premiere of “Madame Butterfly” at Lamonaaie, Belgium, January 31st, Paris premiere of “Swanlake” at Theatre des Champs Elysées, March 29th, Curator of the Danish Pavilion at MINDCRAFT exhibition 2017 in Milan April 4th, Exibition at the MAD Museum, New York City, April 27th, Solo exhibition at Maison du Danemark, Paris, May 11th, and Japan exhibition at the 21st Century Museum, autumn 2017. Extremely impressive – and Vibskov being an avant garde designer - very un Danish.
skov being the perfect show master, and as always fashionably late, his orange troop performed synchronized movements mirroring the contrast of today’s hectic world and demands to harmonizing mind and body exercises. The theatre’s 812 audience members, experienced why Vibskov is big abroad. Around the performers simply great clothes paraded – men’s loose suits in Tricolored stripes, monochrome, with an extra yellow stripe or with added embroidered flowers. Fantastic women’s coats in pale shearling alternated with monochrome checked bonded wool wrap coats or with fab thermo-coats, the filling made of plastic recycled in Holland. To die for in bright orange. This fabulous shade also impressed in heavy crepe as midi length dresses, which also came in nude. Electric blue, brown/beige ethnic checks, heavy denim, French jacquards, heavy denim - and chunky knitwear produced in Herning.
He showed his A/W 2017 at the enormous Østre Gasværk theatre, appropriate for his “The Five O’clock Leg Alignment” show. Vib-
What a collection, what great design.
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THURSDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 2
“I’M AN IMMIGRANT” LALA BERLIN
In the majestic surroundings of Nikolaj Kirke in central Copenhagen, people gathered around attracted to the red lights and warm breeze inside the church escaping the cold. Well-dressed it-girls lined up front row, drinking cocktails and chatting, made me think of my time in high school – and how fitting - because The Lala Berlin girl is precisely that person from your high school that every guy in the class fell in love with and every girl wanted to be friends with.
This season, Lala Berlin wanted to make a declaration.
As expected, chunky knitted sweaters, tailored coats and suits, delicious flower-printed dresses, lots of leather, red, khaki green, black, leopard and glitter steamed into the catwalk on the beautiful models, having top model Ina Maribo Jensen open the show. Everything seemed perfectly predictable but really was not:
Traditionally, the designer enters the catwalk at the end of the show for a well-deserved applause, and this season Lala Berlin designer Leyla Piedayesh sure did a remarkable entrance holdning up a sign saying “I’m an immigrant!” making the audience scream and cheer. The Lala Berlin girl from your high school class grew up, and decided to make a declaration and she sure did.
Political statements started popping on to the catwalk saying CHANGE, THINK and REVOLUTION in an understated way, yet noticeable enough to make people react. The statement styles created a cool contrast to the feminine silhouettes and showed a progress for the suddenly more rebellious Lala Berlin girl.
Time: 19.00 Place: Nikolaj Kirke Words: Marie Jedig
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FEBRUARY 2
THURSDAY EDITION
MADE IN ISHØJ TRINE LINDEGAARD
Taking place at Søpavillionen, also known under the unfortunate nickname “Klamydiaborgen” (The Chlamydia Fortress), Trine Lindegaard makes an unceremonious statement: Kitsch organ music playing in the background, balloons in all colors, and metallic silver confetti hanging on the wall, all makes it clear that Trine does not want her young audience to take fashion too seriously. This collection “Made In Ishøj” is inspired by Danish stereotypes and is made in collaboration with, and with inspiration from, students from the production school Møllen – and the idea of the project is to change the condemn of a Danish congested residential area.
The collection consisted colourful tracksuits in shades of pink, orange, and navy, statement quotes and patchworks combined with funky embroidery. Sadly, the idea of the collection and the inspiration outshined the actual styles and therefore didn’t come through as intended, leaving the audience a bit empty-handed. On the positive side, Trine Lindegaard is rethinking fashion and bringing a rare, humoristic form of realness to the industry. Seeing the pieces on the runway one by one almost felt like flipping through a comic book, and seeing the happy guests before, during, and after the show made it clear that there actually is a market for unfashionable fashion.
Time: 15.00 Place: Søpavillonen Words: Marie Jedig
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THE DAILY
THURSDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 2
ALL ABOUT THE ARTIST WEARETHEFACES
The wonderful thing about fashion is that it is so volatile.Like Wednesday when right after Cecilie Bahnsen’s show of ultra feminine romantic young dresses WEARETHEFACES set the scene for a complete design contrast.
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can create the collection as they want, Amanda and Hannah remain in the background and manage the rest.
An unheated glasshouse is not the most conducive place for a presentation of any brand but these clothes came through in a simple decent way.
The vision is to create a new form of gallery and offer a piece of wearable art. For everybody and for the artist’s fans who can collect the artwork and wear it. There is a new designer for every collection, which means the look is completely different for every collection made in sustainable fabrics.
WEARETHEACES is a new innovative design studio where the designers, Amanda Karijord, Norway, and Hannah Gutkauf, Austria collaborate with different artists, exploring the borderline between art and fashion, discussing the look, fabric and details with the particular artist in order to produce unique and wearable clothing. He/she
It turns out to be very well made, simple shapes in blue, black, and beige. – long A-line jackets over asymmetrical midi shirts, full trousers, artistic, painted prints. Quite beautiful in a serious, basic way. WEARETHEFACES is all about the artist. The faces are the artists not us, says Amanda, and you are the gallery.
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Time: 13.00 Place: Væksthuset Words: Lotte Freddie
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FEBRUARY 2
THURSDAY EDITION
YDE PREVIEW Glamor purveyor Ole Yde offered a preview of his new stylistic concoctions Wednesday morning to the delight of Copenhagen’s classiest women. WORDS PHOTOGRAPHY
IN Magazine’s Eva Wegner carried a bomb in her handbag that would go off with the slightest twitch of her facial muscles.
magnus jorem helena lundquist
Composer Di Garbi believes that you can in fact dance about architecture. Rebecca Notkin, Merete Othilia Knudsen, and Helle Moalem believe reappropriating luxurious table cloths is the key to a sustainable fashion future.
Blogger Josefine HJ 3D-printed all the virtual pokémon fur she had frantically collected last year into one impressive techno-sustainable getup for the YDE gathering.
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Net-a-tete.com’s Marina Roset says she has always seen things in a different way and can elaborate over a coffee if you like.
Stylists Pernille Holm and Anna Carli are confident that despite their youthful appearances, they are the real adults in the room.
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Designer Ole Yde pioneered a blogger pose he refers to as “sorta-doin-the-Macarena-but-not-feelin-it.” Everyone knows that Euroman’s Frede Andersen has broken bad, but we personally feel he’s taking this Walter White thing a tad too far.
Alt for Damerne’s Pernille Rosenkide wore a skirt in the emerging trend known as “modest starship muslim” next to Eurowoman’s Camilla Larsson.
Elle’s Josephine Aarkrogh once did an “unpaid” internship at Copenhagen Zoo.
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THURSDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 2
PRIVATE DINNER
Loyal ambassador of Danish fashion abroad, stylist supernova and Social Zoo creative director Pernille Teisbæk welcomed some of the world’s most influential editors and buyers into her Frederiksberg home for an intimate candle-lit dinner, the epitome of Danish hygge. WORDS frederik højgaard PHOTOGRAPHY helena lundquist
Interview Magazine’s Miguel Enamorado, MyTheresa’s Tiffany Hsu and T Magazine’s Malina Gilchrist
NET-A-PORTER’s Lisa Aiken, Matches Fashion’s Kate Blythe and InStyle Germany’s Julia Schygulla
British Vogue’s Naomi Smart and Porter Magazine’s Gabriele Hackworthy
Vogue.com’s Eviana Hartman
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Hostess Pernille Teisbæk with fiancé Philip Lotko
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Planlæg hurtigt og effektivt med SameSystem Bestseller - Norr - Samsøe Samsøe - Madam My - DK Company - Hugo Boss - Day - Pandora
By retailers for retailers
Tommy Hilfiger - Ralph Lauren - Trendstar - Noa Noa - Molo Kids - Masai - Levi’s - Bianco
www.samesystem.com - (+45) 70 70 70 27 - contact@samesystem.com
THURSDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 2
LADIES WHO LUNCH
Pernille Teisbæk and Hannah Løffler, the creative forces behind the consultancy Social Zoo, invited their fashion week guests of honour to a traditional Danish lunch at HAY’s Amagertorv concept store, overlooking one of Copenhagen’s most beautiful squares. Because what could be more Danish than HAY’s elegant, functionalist design and photogenic smorrebrod? WORDS frederik højgaard PHOTOGRAPHY helena lundquist
Global Content Director at Matches Fashion, Kate Blythe
British Vogue’s Shopping Editor, Naomi Smart
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Porter Magazine’s Fashion Director, Gabriele Hackworthy
The Social Zoo duo, managing director Hannah Løffler and creative director Pernille Teisbæk
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FEBRUARY 2
THURSDAY EDITION
EVENTS OF THE DAY THE FRENCH EMBASSY HUMAN RIGHTS PRIZE
CARMAKOMA ’DIVERSITY IS BEAUTIFUL’ PHOTOSHOOT
PREVIEW BRØGGER AW17
LÆRKE ANDERSEN FEAT. MOLINA
The Human Rights Prize of the French Embassy is awarded to Eva Kruse for her remarkable achievement creating the Copenhagen Fashion Summit. 09.00-11.00 Palais Thott Kongens Nytorv 4 Copenhagen K By invitation only benedicte.hausmann@diplomatie.gouv.fr
Your diversity is beautiful, so we encourage you to join the movement and participate in the photoshoot. 14.00-19.00 Ibens Hotel Vendersgade 23 Copenhagen K RSVP heidie@carmakoma.com
Brøgger, a luxury womenswear label from London designing jackets and coats, announces its first collection. 17.00-18.00 Kopenhagen Fur, KiCK Fredericiagade 21 Copenhagen K By invitation only press@brogger.co
20.00-21.00 Nansensgade 71 Copenhagen K By invitation only laerke.h.andersen@gmail.com
CIFF SHOES PRESENTATION
DANIEL VAN DER NOON X MADS NØRGAARD PARTY
LE FIX FASHION WEEK PARTY
JEAN // PHILLIP X BETON PAPER
Tunes by John Vincent. Food and drinks will be served. 18.00-21.00 Kronprinsensgade 9B Copenhagen K By invitation only kv@le-fix.com
Jean // Phillip party with Beton Paper at ARCH 23.30-05.00 ARCH Nørregade 41 Copenhagen K Open to all
A show presentation of various brands from CIFF Shoes FW 17-18 collection. 14.00-14.30 CIFF Showroom Center Boulevard 5, 1st floor, B4 Copenhagen S Registration for CIFF required astr@bellacenter.dk
DJ set Lucia Odoom and live performance by Karl William 16.00-18.00 Tullinsgade 21 Copenhagen V Open to all
SHOWS OF THE DAY 10.00
VIA Design
12.00
11.00
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
12.00 Muf10
14.00
By Malene Birger
Jesper Høvring
15.00 Munthe
16.00
Elaine Hersby
16.00
Astrid Andersen
TRADE FAIRS R E VO LV E R CO P E N H AG E N INT. FASHION TRADE SHOW Revolver Village Halmtorvet 11 Copenhagen V www.revolver.dk
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CIFF
CIFF KIDS
Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S www.ciff.dk
Forum Copenhagen Julius Thomsens Plads 1 Frederiksberg C www.ciff.dk
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Revolver Copenhagen International Fashion Trade Show Revolver Village Entrance / Øksnehallen Halmtorvet 11, DK-1700 Copenhagen V Revolver Copenhagen Int. Fashion Trade Show represents the most progressive contemporary Scandinavian design driven fashion brands mixed with likeminded quality brands from the rest of the world. Revolver is a unique order-platform for both mens- and women’s wear, which attracts the best buyers from the Nordic region as well as the best international buyers, in order to do business, discover and network.
Opening hours Wednesday 1st of February: 09:00 am - 07:00 pm Thursday 2nd of February: 10:00 am - 07:00 pm Friday 3rd of February: 10:00 am - 04:00 pm
Download the Revolver app Download the ”Revolver Fashion Trade Show” app in App Store or Google Play, and find the exhibiting brands and your own way through Revolver Village.
See you in Revolver Village! www.revolver.dk