Daily FRI_SS_18 by Copenhagen Fashion Week

DAILY BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN California girls FASHION WEEK CEO CAMILLA FRANK “The end consumer can get what she wants in seconds” SAKS POTTS Fashion tourist

THE BEST OF COPENHAGEN STREET STYLE

FRI EDITION

AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

A SHARED RESPONSIBILITY In recent years, sustainability has become a regular concept in our everyday lives, something we all strive to abide by. As for the fashion scene, being conscious seems to be as en vogue at the moment as it is ethical. Indeed, fashionability and going green are not mutually exclusive, something stressed repeatedly in the last couple of days. Designer’s Remix’s new preloved offerings and Carvel’s holistic approach are just a few of the many green initiatives I’ve come across this season. And just yesterday, it was announced that Danish apparel behemoth Bestseller is entering a new strategic partnership with Global Fashion Agenda, the Danish Fashion Institute’s worldwide sustainability initiative. Great news that hopefully will set an example for others in the industry. Global Fashion Agenda is, for the unaware, behind the annual international conference on sustainable fashion, Copenhagen Fashion Summit, an event that has attracted high-fashion profiles, designers, and influencers along with world leaders, politicians, NGOs, and opinion makers to the Danish capital.

It’s not just brands that need to make a big change. Consumers make up an equally important part of the equation, and their purchasing habits can make or break the sustainable shift. That being said, I believe there’s no doubt that endconsumers are more aware today than ever. These days, it seems one cannot not have thought about sustainability one way or the other in order to succeed as a brand. We all have a responsibility to keep the green stream flowing. On a final note, I’m so happy to see how the young talents are embracing sustainable fashion, making the industry greener than ever — today and for the future. Learn more at copenhagenfashionsummit.com There, you can read the Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report, a comprehensive study of the industry’s eco-footprint. Get educated!

The biggest event of its kind in the world, Copenhagen Fashion Summit has managed to put fashion’s darkest and most important subject on everybody’s lips. Bestseller will join fashion peers like H&M and global luxury group Kering, which houses brands like Gucci, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, and Stella McCartney, in this undertaking.

CONTRIBUTORS

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Line Hindsgaul EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER Camilla Frank Copenhagen Fashion Week ART DIRECTOR Wendy Plovmand SUB EDITOR Magnus Jorem

CFW DAILY

Line Hindsgaul Editor in chief

WRITERS Katrine Lund-Nielsen Sille Ugelvig Rikke Agnete Dam Marlene Toldbod Jakobsen Sofie Ringtved Lotte Freddie Jeppe Ugelvig Marie Jedig Courtney Forrest

PHOTOGRAPHERS Elisabeth Eibye Helena Lundquist Sahel Hamdam

DISTRIBUTION Natasha Roel PRINT Jysk Fynske Medier

STREET STYLE PHOTOGRAPHER Adam Katz Sinding SALES Linda Ava Laursen

COVER PHOTOGRAPHER Elisabeth Eibye

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Copenhagen Fashion Week partner

Download the GreenMobility app and get easily around Copenhagen in one of your 400 electric city cars. Use the promo code when you sign up and get the ďŹ rst 30 minutes for free.

AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

CFW DAILY INSIGHTS & RECOMMENDATIONS DAILY Designer CATHRINE SAKS AND BARBARA POTTS, FOUNDERS AND CREATIVE DIRECTORS AT SAKS POTTS You’re back on the show schedule again. Why did you choose to do a fashion show this season? We love the opportunity to showcase our design through a fashion show to show our clothes in the right setting and atmosphere. It gives the brand another dimension. How do you prepare for fashion week – do you have a ritual? Up to fashion week our calendar is our Bible. We write everything down in it — even the really small things. Then everyone in our team shares what’s necessary with each other. It works so well, but our calendar looks like a big mess. What is the story behind the new collection and show venue – anything important to notice? If it’s even possible, this collection is the most fun we have made so far. We’ve really tried not to take ourselves, the jackets, or the clothes too seriously. We’ve been inspired by photographer Martin Paar and his bold and humoristic way of documenting reality. We simply call the collection ‘Tourist’.

DAILYGreen

Wear it sustainably with Preloved Remix

Few, perhaps, know that re-using old items of clothing has always formed a central element of creative director Charlotte Eskildsen’s vision, and with the launch of Preloved Remix, the brand makes another step towards a closed production cycle. Hand in your preloved Designers Remix styles and the garments will be remade and remixed into new styles, sold exclusively in Designers Remix stores. The first Preloved Remix will be showcased during Copenhagen Fashion Week at the ready-to-wear SS18 show. And pssst… You can hand in your preloved Designers Remix styles beginning now in their flagship stores. Designers Remix, Pilestræde 8d, Central Copenhagen

What are your own favourite pieces? So hard to choose. We’ve designed a traditional handmade Chinese dress, which we think is really cool. Together with Kopenhagen Fur, we’ve designed a pair of two mohair jackets embellished with Danish mink fur dots and shells. These coats are also among our favourites. What else is on the Saks Potts agenda this season? During Copenhagen Fashion Week we’re launching our Swiss collection at Holly Golightly today with beer and music, from 15:00-19:00. Come and join!

DAILY DETOUR

– AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO COPENHAGEN

We’ve asked Copenhagen insiders about their favourite places to explore in the Danish capital — both the city’s hidden gems and its classic destinations. Today, Editor in Chief of Eurowoman Anne Lose takes you through three of hers. 1. THE DAVID COLLECTION I love going to the art museum The David Collection opposite The King’s Garden, which is in my neighborhood. The mix of European furniture and art from the 18th Century is amazing, and the fact that they have a lot of Vilhelm Hammershøi paintings is a big plus for me. The collection of Islamic Art is also quite impressive. I go early Saturday or Sunday morning, when the area is quiet. Admission is free, by the way. Kronprinsessegade 30, Central Copenhagen 2. RESTAURANTS ON BORGERGADE We have so many amazing restaurants in my neighborhood. If you are in a hurry, I love ‘Gasoline Grill’ for their burger and fries. The queue can sometimes be quite long, but somehow I am always lucky. Dim sum is a big favourite of mine and I love going with my family to Royal Garden and filling out the little order book with my preferred pieces. When I meet up with friends in the evening, we usually go to Cantina, where I love the burrata and the octopus. All three restaurants are situated on Borgergade very close to each other. Borgergade, Central Copenhagen 3. SHOPPING IN CENTRAL COPENHAGEN Copenhagen is a wonderful shopping destination, and it’s hard to pick favourite stores. Right now the ones I have the greatest urge to visit are the new Hermés store on Højbro Plads, the Birger Christensen in Østergade to discover the new season of Céline, Chloé, and Dior, and the Gubi Store on Møntergade to buy a Gio Ponti mirror.

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DAILY PIT STOP ITALY IN COPENHAGEN

Sharing is caring. So the Italians believe, and even though you’re not in Italy, you still have the opportunity to share the Italian dinner of your dreams with friends, fashion-week goers, and the rest of Copenhagen. Located on the busy street Nørrebrogade, Cicchetti — which means small dishes to share — is a new antipasti favourite, offering simple, delicious food. Try their burrata in fresh olive oil, octopus with greens, or their homemade grissini that easily could be the best ones you’ll ever taste. With its Céline-like marble floor, yellow walls, and industrial details, it’s not only the food but also the ambiance that’s mouthwatering about this place. Cicchetti, Nørrebrogade 56, Nørrebro

DAILY

SHOP, EAT & WISHLIST BE CULTURAL SAKS POTTS

Brooke Bob, fashion writer at Vouge.com

Tomorrow is your chance to get a bit of Copenhagen Fashion Week for yourself. CFW invites you on a curated Shopping Guide with ALT for Damerne’s Fashion Director Sille Henning, a delicious designer lunch at Les Trois Cochons with designers Heliot Emil and Mai Svanhvit. Last but not least join an Art Walk with Senior Fashion Director Frederik Lentz Read more and find tickets at biletto.dk

MARGUERITTE DRESS I have been obsessing over the very chic Margueritte dress by Saks Potts — it’s perfect for the coming season. Sakspotts.com

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AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

NEWCOMERS AND RETURNEES WELCOME BACK: BITTE KAI RAND, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF EPONYMOUS LABEL What’s it like to be back on the CFW show schedule? The decision to come back is based on my opinion of fashions shows. As a designer, I think it is the greatest luxury to show one’s collection in such a beautiful and effective way as a show can be. We can show it exactly as we want to. It’s a playground for creativity, and a powerful way to bring the collection further. In addition, we are seeing great interest from abroad, and have begun to get a new generation of customers, which is why a show schedule return is an obvious decision. Why did Bitte Kai Rand take a break from CFW? It’s a lot of work and investment to make shows, so it’s always a consideration of whether the profit is worth the effort. For some time, the hype around Copenhagen as an international fashion destination faded somewhat, and we found the show calendar somewhat confusing and maybe not so strong, so in that situation, we chose to await new developments. Now the show concept is stronger and fashion week is finding its form again — and then it’s natural for us to rejoin. How does CFW differ from other fashion weeks in Europe? In many ways, CFW works more clearly and integrated. As a Scandinavian brand, we feel more at home in the sense that we match with more brands than at other fairs.

DAILY DUO:

FRIENDS SLASH COLLEAGUES Fashion director of Costume Thora Valdimars and fashion editor of Costume Jeanette Friis Madsen. CFW DAILY: What came first: Being friends or working together? THORA AND JEANETTE: Working together came first, friendship after. Q: What are the pros and cons of working with your best friend? A: We get to see each other every day, when we’re apart we miss each other. Can’t think of a con actually. We are so much alike, so that when one of us is feeling tired or unhappy we know exactly what to do to make the person feel better. Q: How does a day at CFW look like for a couple of best colleagues? Do you have any routines? A: Not really any routines as such. We always say that we won’t drink alcohol but then there’s wine or drinks at a show and it can just be difficult to say no to when your work is also pleasure. Q: Being (what seems like) the most photographed street style duo at CFW, do you coordinate your outfits? A: Actually we don’t. We’ve done it once with the MUF10 bomber jackets but after that we haven’t coordinated. We came to work the other day wearing the same outfit, just different colours. And that happens a lot. Q: … So what will you be wearing during CFW? A: We never know what to wear before the next morning.

DESIGN EXPERIENCES AT SKT. PETRI

If you’re hungry for more design, Skt. Petri is the place to go. After 15 years of accommodating local and international guests, the luxury hotel was recently reimagined with fresh design: Expanding with 20 new and refurbished rooms and a lobby that’s transformed to include a colourful restaurant and bar- and lounge area, the hotel is embracing a brandnew look that reflects a timeless sense of laid-back luxury. Visiting the hotel, you can explore sculptures and prints by both up-and-coming and established names in art, including Bjørn Nørgaard, Tal R, Adam Saks, and the artist collective Superflex. The new interior design is created by architect Hilde Aasbø of the award-winning Norwegian design studio Anemone Wille Våge. Psst… Remember to visit the almost-secret relaxing courtyard and popular restaurant, P Eatery, for a complete Skt. Petri experience. Hotel Skt. Petri, Krystalgade 22, Central Copenhagen

TRADE FAIRS FASHION DIRECTOR AT IN, NANNA JUULSGAARD PRESENT AT: REVOLVER What trade fair will you be attending? This time I will only attend the Revolver trade fair, actually. We have chosen to split up so our editor-in-chief goes to CIFF and the fashion team to Revolver. PHOTO: PETRA KLEISS

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How do you prepare for a day at the trade fairs? For me it’s mostly about meeting and greeting the teams from the different brands, so it doesn’t require that much preparation, but a cup of coffee never hurt nobody on a day with a lot of meetings. What’s on your to-do list for a day at the trade fairs? I have decided to just “go with the flow” this time so I haven’t made any specific appointments that I probably

would fail to maintain. So hopefully it will be less stressful and more easy-going. What role do the trade fairs have in the work and content of IN? It’s a great way to spot some of the trends for the upcoming season and create an overview of what, especially to see what Danish fashion scene has to offer this time around. Also, networking of course. What do you look most forward to experiencing this season at the trade fairs? Probably to see what the brands that do not host a show have on the agenda for SS18 and to re-see the ones who did.

CFW DAILY

AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

MEET YOUR DAILY FASHION PERSONA:

CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week Camilla Frank

“THE END CONSUMER CAN GET WHAT SHE WANTS IN SECONDS” WORDS: RIKKE AGNETE DAM PHOTO: BJARKE JOHANSEN The CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week, 44-year-old Camilla Frank, has been part of the fashion world for 16 years, including as editor-in-chief of magazines Costume, Eurowoman, and Alt for Damerne. She’s now using her long experience to connect Danish fashion in a world rapidly changing. Her love for a certain top, however, has stayed the same for 17 years. CFW DAILY: How would you describe your role on the Danish fashion scene? CAMILLA FRANK: My role is to be the connecting part between the different actors of the fashion scene, making sure that we work together to make Copenhagen Fashion Week an optimal platform for promoting Danish fashion — not only through shows, but also events and presentations. As the biggest fashion event in our country, Copenhagen Fashion Week is our best tool to get Danish fashion noticed abroad, as well as locally, in order to make the industry grow. Q: What has been the most remarkable change at the Danish fashion scene since you entered it? A: Since I entered fashion 16 years ago, its world has gone digital. The consequence: Everything moves much faster. Back then, fashion was a lot

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A: One challenge for Danish fashion is that designers tend to stick to a success. If a shirt was a bestseller last year, then it is often remade. Of course designers should create their classics and do timeless pieces. But when it comes to presenting your collection at a show, it isn’t about showing this shirt in 15 different materials and colours, but to present a new take on the DNA of the brand and the story you want to tell with the collection.

about waiting. After a style was shown on the runway, it took six months before you could get it, and even longer before the trend was absorbed by the high street. Now, the end consumer can often get what she sees in seconds. This change has influenced the designers, who used to dictate a certain style, but are now also influenced by customers as influencers. This means that yes, red will for sure be a thing this autumn, but it will just be one trend among a bunch of others. Fashion now is much more about creating your own look.

Q: Which Danish designers do you turn to when you are shopping? A: I have recently spotted Emilie Helmstedt, who is making silk tops with seriously cute prints, at Holly Golightly. I have also had a hard time ignoring the beautiful shoes by the new footwear brand Bartels Since 1920. When it comes to more established brands, the By Malene Birger autumn collection is excellent and the strongest from Christina Exsteen since she took over as creative director.

Q: What is most positive about Danish fashion right now? A: When looking for profiles for our New Talent Scene, I was honestly nervous if we could find enough. But I was surprised about the amount of talent, including the likes of Heliot Emil, Mai Svanhvit, and the jewellery brand Corali — and also to discover that right now the talents are entering the accessories scene. Also the fact that there is no such thing as a new designer not considering sustainability — what a positive development.

Q: What was your first personal experience with Danish fashion? A: When I was studying journalism in the nineties and helped my mom with a piece she was doing

Q: What is the worst thing about Danish fashion right now?

as part of her her post-graduate education, my reward was that she fulfilled my greatest wish: A one-of-a-kind Munthe plus Simonsen dress in blue silk with a yellow print. Q: When you look into your wardrobe, which piece of Danish design is your favourite? A: Definitely my lace tops from Heartmade by Julie Fagerholt. I have purchased them since she launched her brand 17 years ago and I still have periods when they are the only tops I wear. And the fact that people often ask me where they are from doesn’t make me less happy about them. Q: Looking five years into the crystal ball, what is your dream for Danish fashion? A: That Copenhagen Fashion Week has become the natural connecting factor for Scandinavian fashion — the place brands turn to as their destination number one, rather than Paris or London, when they have reached a certain size. Play video feature on copenhagenfashionweek.com

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FASHION FORWARD MEET, GREET AND CATCH UP WITH YOUR BEAUTY SLEEP AT COPENHAGEN’S REBORN STYLE ICON. WHETHER HOSTING EVENTS, PRESENTATIONS OR FRIENDLY GET-TOGETHERS, WE’RE EXCITED TO WELCOME YOU HOME.

PROUD PARTNER OF COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK KRYSTALGADE 22 | 1172 COPENHAGEN | DENMARK | +45 33 45 91 00 | STAY@SKTPETRI.COM

AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

TABULA RASA IVAN GRUNDAHL

Time: 20:00, 9th August Place: Lokomotivværkstedet Words: Jeppe Ugelvig The late Danish avant-gardist Ivan Grundahl was one of few designers in this country who mastered the art of effortless, intellectual clothing. Thankfully, his immense heritage lives on under Roy Kreyberg, who Wednesday presented his second collection as creative director of the brand. With a backdrop of white, three-dimensionally draped fabrics — the tabula rasa continuously reinvented by the Grundahl house — models with nun-like headpieces descended on the runway in a series of sleeveless robes in off-white, black, and cobalt blue. The nunnery atmosphere was disrupted by a sensual slit and a series of curious fur slippers in same off-white, which the models sauntered ahead in with surprising elegance. The familiar use of raw silks, creased washed cottons, and unfinished hem-lines favoured by Grundahl echo the hey-day of Belgian avant-gardism, seen in the likes of Van Noten and Demeulemeester. Kreyberg managed to extend his predecessor’s preoccupation with bold eveningwear into younger and more accessible silhouettes that incorporated sportswear references in a manner so subtle they would easily escape the eye. In a sense, an Ivan Grundahl collection is more of an iteration or organic elaboration of a universe that continuous to live, breathe, and grow — a living proof that true fashion relies not on cheap tricks but on uncompromising vision.

THE SCIENCE OF SLEEP

HENRIK VIBSKOV Time: 22:30, 9th August Place: Charlottenborg Words: Jeppe Ugelvig

Scheduling a show for 10:30 PM and delaying it another 30 minutes is perhaps not only a reflection of CFW’s merciless scheduling; Henrik Vibskov, at least, seemed to have found inspiration in the drowsy long hours of fashion labour, taking it as an aesthetic and conceptual cue for his SS18 collection. Reportedly inspired by his South Korean intern who fell asleep on stage at one of his previous presentations, the idiosyncratic Danish conceptualist went into a somatic rabbit hole of experimental tailoring and iconographic dream interpretation. There was a range of striped pajamas, of course, a technical homage to the perfect sleepwear of East Asia, where Vibskov increasingly spends his time, but more intriguing were his surreally tailored suits that seemed to be half coming off the models, and the shirts with extra sleeves attached to the breast as functionalist dead-ends — a sleepwalker’s couture, perhaps, which brought out Vibskov the skillful conceptualist and dimmed down the quirky self-mythologizing persona that sometimes takes the center stage in his designs. Well into the second decade of his brand’s life, Vibskov has firmly outlined a sort of idiosyncratic formalism complete with conceptual embroidery, West African prints, colourful stripes and patterns, functional one-pieces. But Wednesday night, he proved broader relevance at the centre of the European avant-garde design scene.

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AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

DRESSING UP LOVECHILD 1979 Time: 09:00 Place: Langelinie Allé 47 Words: Lotte Freddie

Lovechild is a euphemism for a child born out of wedlock. Lovechild is a yoga studio, a song, the title of an Australian television series about a hospital, and Lovechild 1979 is the name of a Danish fashion brand begun in 2009. Owner and creative director Anne-Dorthe Larsen describes her version of lovechild as “timeless luxurious fashion” with feminine aspects that customers can personalize in a style that transcends seasons.

much more uplifting in colours and prints made in Italian materials from the same producer used by Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana. They came in a rainbow of different hues. A new idea is a half-and-half dress — flowered in the front in turquoise and brown, and striped in the back in white and pale blue. Or red and pink flowers on grey in front and a wine-coloured back. Black provides the background for purple flowers or yellow lemons, both with green leaves, and a star pattern gleams in pastel pink, yellow, and turquoise. Details are frills, bare backs and one bare shoulder, and white is an alternative — as a long white blazer or wide, high-waisted trousers that also came with grey stripes.

It was obvious yesterday that her approach has hit the fashion nail. Entering her show, I swooned over ELLE-editor-in-chief Cecilie Ingdahl’s beautiful, loose, blue-and-white-flowered silk dress. It comes from the SS18 collection that we saw on the catwalk along with Anne-Dorthe Larsen’s other probable future hits — to be seen on next season’s front row just like yesterday’s guests blooming in numerous lovely flowered Lovechild dresses. Contrary to previous collections, this was an altogether more dressed up look, meant to be used also for everyday dressing. Those days will look

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Long black chiffon with coloured shoulderembroidery was less convincing, as was a heart shaped frilled front. Otherwise, Lovechild SS18 looks really nice.

CFW DAILY

AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

NEW HEARTBEATS

JULIE FAGERHOLT

Time: 10:00 Place: Pilestrædet 45 Words: Lotte Freddie

Julie Fagerholt is the heart of Heartmade, the fashion brand she established in 1998 as a couture tailor business. Two years later, she showed her first ready-to-wear collection for which she won the fashion award The Golden Button – and another Golden Button just two years later.

progressing into the SS18 collection as stronger prints and colours: fantastic bright grass green and a lovely burnt rose/orange paisley print with shoes to match. The green also served as background for red and pink flowers, or stood as striking hue by itself in suits, skirts, and a flowing A-line dress with asymmetrical hem. My favourite pattern, paisley, shone in silk shirts, trousers, and as lining in a coral cardigan, as well as in her new full midi dress, gathered in the front and with added pleated wing sleeves.

To own a Heartmade jacket is a dream come true. Its luxurious texture and perfect make are unmistakably Julie Fagerholt, immediately recognizable. Her romantic yet tailored design, ever in unique fabrics, always has an edge. These days, she is strongly influenced by her trendy young daughter, Bex, who is now also her collaborator on diffusion line Tagged by Bex.

Heartmade’s famous tailoring was evident in beige/ white checked jackets with black lapels, and in a strikingly bright pink blazer with gold button and piping. Bex? Her short white rib knit sweater with a diamante anchor will also sell like hot cakes.

So it is a special designer who yesterday presented her SS18 visions. Both collections were displayed, and the result of the daughter influencing the mother turned out to be a younger, edgier version of Heartmade. Street life, in London and Los Angeles, have also stirred in Julie Fagerholdt vibes,

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The collaboration of mother and daughter is going to mirror the brand’s development so that the new designs are picked up by both generations.

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AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

NEW-AGE ACTION MAN

HALO

Time: 11:00 Place: CIFF Bella Center Words: Marie Jedig

Rarely have I seen so many fashionable men gathered at the same spot. It’s clear that there’s something in the air about streetwear brand HALO.

“Slow” tied the experience together. Among the otherwise testosterone-packed cast, three feminine silhouettes suddenly appeared in training masks, including the hourglass-shaped Christine Sofie, striking a bow for unisex wears and adding a feminine sexiness to the collection.

Inspired by the Danish Army’s Special Forces, the designers Rasmus Storm and Malkit Singh have created HALO with a passion for wearable clothes with a focus on detail and comfort.

HALO manifested its brand identity as a wearable sportswear label usable both for actual fitness activities and as casual streetwear. The idea that an item can be used both inside and outside the gym fits the masculinity of the brand and opens the market for customers all around the world.

A signature yellow line indicating the catwalk and a digital watch at the runway entrance represented the active life of men on the run, both metaphorically and literally: Streamlined sportswear with embroidered logos counting shorts, tights, pullovers, and tracksuits in shades of black, grey, beige, and navy entered the runway, presented by a “tough” model cast of gorgeous guys. Splashes of colour in tones of orange and yellow and army print with associations to the brand DNA appeared as details, giving me flashbacks to the pride of my own dad’s posting in Afghanistan. A cool remix of Kylie Minogue’s pop hit

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After the show, people gathered around in the sunshine outside to gossip about the collection, as sighs and groans sounded from the satisfied female audience. HALO is the perfect example that the best reason to watch menswear fashion shows... is the men.

CFW DAILY

AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

MY BUSINESS IS PLEASURE

MARTIN ASBJØRN

Time: 12:00 Place: CIFF Bella Center Words: Marie Jedig

Martin Asbjørn presented an integrated, masculine collection dominated by a feminine palette inspired by the 80s, including lavender purple, sandy beige, yellow, mouse grey, pink, and a touch of leopard print. The silhouettes balanced between sharp and soft tailoring for a relaxed yet elegant feeling, perfectly styled in different layers and soft colour combinations. While blurring gender roles and classic ideas of which colour belongs to which sex, it remained a quite masculine collection, containing loosely fit trousers, bomber jackets, suits, and shirts with an urban vibe.

While watching the show, I daydreamed of heading to an exotic holiday destination with the as-yetunknown love of my life, sipping Piña Coladas on the beach and dancing in the sand to the sound of the waves splashing all night. The name of the collection, “My Business is Pleasure”, fits the collection to perfection: Streamlined enough to wear to work but with casual shapes and materials to relax in. While traveling, people always ask me if I’m away for business or for pleasure, and with this collection in my suitcase, the answer to this question could be both.

With this collection, Asbjørn represents the modern man: He is cool, successful, trendy, and masculine, but soft by heart and in total contact with his feminine side. He does not have to beat his chest or overpower others to feel secure about himself, and he owns every woman’s heart on the block simply by being gallant and honest.

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The world would sure be a better place if everyone’s business truly were his (or her) pleasure.

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AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

A REASON TO BE

One can’t help but make comparisons between Bitte Kai Rand and American designer Eileen Fisher, a guest speaker at this year’s Copenhagen Fashion Summit. The two share a similar aesthetic, customer base, and business trajectory, and both recognized when it was time to give their namesake brands a facelift. In Rand’s case, that meant a clearly defined “reason to be” and culminated in a complete overhaul across all platforms, including a redesign of twelve flagship stores worldwide, set to reopen this week.

Time: 13:00 Place: Stay Hotel Rooftop Words: Courtney Forrest

and drop-crotch pant — equally fresh as suiting or separates. Crisp cotton shirtings and boilersuits echo Yamamoto and Gaultier, two of Rand’s oftcited influences. Traditional tie-dye and ikat woven prints are a nostalgic nod to the past. Hallmark functionality and quality remain, but there is a new sense of freedom — of movement, interpretation, and spirit. Playfulness and confidence are inherent in the Bitte Kai Rand customer, but there was a concerted effort to create “eye candy for the next generation” with innovative interplays of colours, patterns, and shapes — including the sure-to-be-editorial floral print on acid green faux suede in a classic trench and bomber jacket.

Bitte Kai Rand returned to Copenhagen Fashion Week for the first time since 2014 to opening sounds of a thunderstorm that had guests, sitting atop the Stay Hotel, glancing up towards the overcast sky. But, not to worry, the clouds parted and the rejuvenated Bitte Kai Rand woman hit the catwalk in all her 60s-bobbed glory. Knitwear and linen remain cornerstones, with updated silhouettes such as the sharp fitted blazer

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BITTE KAI RAND

Whether this new direction will convince Gen X and Y that Bitte Kai Rand is more than just “their mother’s fashion brand” remains to be seen. It certainly was a promising start.

CFW DAILY

AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

CALIFORNIA GIRLS

BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

Time: 14:00 Place: Bruun Rasmussen Words: Courtney Forrest

Last season’s rebellious Baum und Pferdgarten mod girl has run off to LA to follow her technicolour dreams. Called “Silverlake” after the eclectic, ethnic, and culturally mixed neighbourhood of “odd mansions, struggling artists and trust fund hipsters”, Spring/Summer 2018 is a collision of colour, texture, and pattern; of old and new, sporty and glam, sexy and girly. The show venue, CPH’s oldest auction house, Bruun Rasmussen, was chosen for its majestic similarity to the brand’s HQ, which clashes perfectly with the “plastic fantastic” vibe of the collection. This season’s stars include a jacquard bomber jacket and mini-skirt, primary-coloured cut-away buttoned track pants and skirts, and feminine high-low hemmed print dresses. The Chola-girl pant and paper-bag waist trousers felt a bit forced when styled together and paired with oversized sweatshirts, but worked well as separate entities.

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Slip dresses in varying weights from sheermanipulated polyester to camo-printed heavy silk are meant to be layered — under denim jackets and sweatshirts, and over lurex leggings and cropped trousers; as are frilly polka dot blouses, which when worn over this season’s “mascot” flamingo band tee dialed down the prissiness. The brand’s hallmarks — crisp cotton shirtings and dresses, as well as the silk pajama separates, particularly the pant with exaggerated cuff, will fly off the racks. Baum und Pferdgarten was one of the first Danish fashion brands to make a mark on the international scene because of Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten’s distinct, quirky yet cohesive point of view, elevated taste level, and unmatched ability to create signature prints and bold colours season after season. When they stay true to that DNA, no one can top them.

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7.5% OF THE GLOBAL FASHION

INDUSTRY COMMITS TO

CIRCULAR FASHION

At Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2017, the Global Fashion Agenda launched a Call to Action for a Circular Fashion System to counteract today’s unsustainble ”take, make, dispose” system. We are proud to announce that 64 companies and corporations have committed to take action. Learn more at copenhagenfashionsummit.com/commitment

AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

FULL CIRCLE DESIGNERS REMIX Time: 15:00 Place: Cirkelbroen Words: Courtney Forrest

It’s fitting that Designers Remix Creative Director Charlotte Eskildsen chose Cirkelbroen as the venue for her return to Copenhagen Fashion Week after a two-and-a-half year hiatus, as it marks a full circle moment in the brand’s 15-year history. Sustainability is deeply rooted in the brand DNA, and in keeping with this mindset is the recently launched Preloved Remix, an initiative where donated brand items will be remade and remixed into new styles.

Overwrought styling aside, the collection was vibrant, quintessential Remix in spirit and energy. Primary blue, yellow, and green popped against pure white and sand in heavy cotton twills, seersucker, crepe and broderie anglaise, as well as Italian knits and leathers. Eskilden eshews prints, instead exploring colour and texture through monochrome layers — dresses over shirts over pants or some combination thereof, all cinched together with a leather obi. There was more drape, volume and movement than in seasons past — particularly in pants — legs are wider, cuffs exaggerated. Luxe Italian-knit tracksuits and novelty sweatshirts, including two of the first Preloved Remix pieces from the kick-off influencer campaign, added a sporty twist.

There was a sense that Eskildsen expected rain when designing her “pop art and plastic” inspired Spring/ Summer 2018 collection, which is a fair concern considering umbrellas have been needed by guests during at least two Remix shows in the past. So, while fitting that the must-have item was a new twist on a classic trench coat, the abundance of rain gear layered over and under everything was excessive; at least the leather accessories carried in plastic bags were practical. (Every woman has been there.)

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Eskildsen is one of the strongest ambassadors for the Danish fashion industry, and her voice has been deeply missed. The show closed to “Don’t You Forget About Me”, but there is no way we ever could, Charlotte. Just don’t stay away again for so long.

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HOPE - WOOD WOOD - FILIPPA K - ARMOR LUX - RODEBJER NORSE PROJECTS - BACK - IVAN GRUNDAHL - RIKA - WHYRED RABENS SALONER - UNIVERSAL WORKS - LEE - SOULLAND STINE GOYA - 2NDDAY - PETER JENSEN - ALL AT SEA - FILSON JANE KØNIG - SAKS POTTS - ROYAL REPUBLIQ - R/H STUDIO ESSENTIEL ANTWERP - LIBERTINE LIBERTINE - NEW BALANCE GRAUMANN - BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN - MFPEN - RAVN WESC - WRANGLER - MUCKER - TRANSIT - FRED PERRY LAURELL ANNE SOFIE MADSEN - BAND OF OUTSIDERS - EDWIN JEANS ART COMES FIRST - GRENSON - S.N.S. HERNING - STYLEIN HOUSE OF DAGMAR - STUTTERHEIM - RVLT - STELLA NOVA ANDERSEN-ANDERSEN - MADS NØRGAARD COPENHAGEN AF AGGER - STIG P - K-WAY - DICKIES - RAINS - REALITY STUDIO LOVECHILD 1979 - PELECHECOCO - MUNTHE - VELOUR - KOKOON DR. DENIM - SCHNAYDERMAN’S - POLER STUFF - NUÉ NOTES ELAINE HERSBY - AMOV - UNIFORMS FOR THE DEDICATED RAINS - TEVA - ODEUR STUDIOS - H2O SPORTSWEAR - PENFIELD PACKMACK - MORTEN USSING - BUSNEL - ATP ATELIER BLANCHE - KOWTOW - 5PREVIEW - BIRKENSTOCK - EASTPAK CORNELIA WEBB - INDIGOFERA - AMERICAN VINTAGE - AHLVAR MFPEN - THE LAST CONSPIRACY - COTE ET CIEL - FREYA DALSJØ DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN - SANDQVIST - NYGÅRDSANNA SHOE THE BEAR - JASON MARKK - 5PREVIEW - HOSBJERG SIX AMES - CHAMPION REVERSE WEAVE - NOSOMNIA - EPICÉ LIVID JEANS - COUDRE BERLIN - VIBE HARSLØF - KESTIN HARE KLITMØLLER COLLECTIVE - SEMPACH - M-WIESNECK - WEMOTO Opening hours Wednesday 1st of February: 09:00 am - 07:00 pm Thursday 2nd of February: 10:00 am - 07:00 pm Friday 3rd of February: 10:00 am - 04:00 pm Revolver Village Øksnehallen Halmtorvet 11, DK-1700 Copenhagen V www.revolver.dk

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AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

HERMÈS LIGHT

UNIFORMS FOR THE DEDICATED Time: 16:00 Place: Lokomotivværkstedet Words: Lotte Freddie

Safari Vice is the apt title of the SS18 collection from Uniforms for the Dedicated — a mix of inspirations from the TV series Miami Vice, the film Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, and the vampire film The Lost Boys about vampires in the desert. There is nothing lost about the designer Rasmus Wingårdh’s urban safari looks playing with colour blocking in ivory and ebony. It is based on using two thirds ivory and one ebony. The bottom third of ivory T-shirts, loose riding pants, jackets and short coats are simply a broad ebony block. A clean look that turns out as super refined in the beautiful, sustainable materials. Shorts, jeans and shirts in African mango colour suited the collection, and played up well to the city-safari design, as did stylish shirts with pleated pockets presented with safari helmets. Classic but cleverly differently so, the clothes appeared as expensive luxury, looking as if they belongs in New York’s best boutiques. Cool and actually elegant street safari separates, laid back coats and suits — Uniforms for the Dedicated deliver the modern man’s suit. This is a Swedish affordable luxury look that deserves oodles of attention. Lars Hedberg’s brand was a revelation of quite simply some of the most beautiful and hottest men’s wear clothes seen for a long time.

IT’S SICK

ASTRID ANDERSEN Time: 18:00 Place: Lokomotivværkstedet Words: Courtney Forrest

After last season’s much-lauded womenswear debut, the pressure was on Astrid Andersen to once again deliver. In a cavernous old train depot on the outskirts of Copenhagen, Andersen took the frontrow-only crowd on Safari with bold floral-printed silk kimonos, rain slickers, and camp shirts; subtle fluid, unfinished tweed tracksuits and dusters; crisp and treated cottons. Expectations were high, and they were once again exceeded. These are clothes for a generation that doesn’t define itself, whose members are comfortable in their own skin, and find power in that comfort. Designing through the lens of her established menswear collection, using references perceived as masculine on more traditionally feminine luxe fabrics, is what Andersen believes gives her such a fresh perspective. Who else would propose wearing warmup jackets as tunics or metallic lace crop tops with fine woven drawstring (!) pants? Manipulating lace into a baseball cap/do-rag hybrid?! As Astrid would say, “SICK”. And, the ACCESSORIES. Andersen collaborated with storied Danish jewelry brand Monies — think elastic armbands accented with a giant Brazilian mountain crystal — (again trademark AA) MEGA SICK. Astrid Andersen is truly in a class by herself. PS: In case you missed it, yes, that was Danish musician Mø in the show.

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AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

GANNI

GANNI GOES GAUCHE

Time: 17:00 Place: Refshalevej 17 Words: Jeppe Ugelvig

If we can gather anything from SS18, it’s that the sun keeps shining on Ganni. With a $60 million annual revenue and a global fan crowd that includes Vogue editors, top models, and hundreds of thousands of 20-something women, the midmarket brand has cemented itself at the very center of Denmark’s growing fashion industry — the epiphany of accessible fashion that still maintains a smart and insider appeal. Thursday afternoon, rays of light penetrated Copenhagen’s moody skies and fell upon a chic front row that included singer Sky Ferreira, musician Blood Orange a.k.a. Dev Hynes, as well as home-bred fashion girls Pernille Teisbæk and Caroline Brach. In terms of following, the season’s chosen hashtag #globalcitizen is accurate.

tops and skirts were served in pale purples and yellows, while an acid orange was by far the most interesting colour offering of the show, applied to flowy dresses, modernized flare pants, and a couple of lush textured eveningwear looks worthy of the red carpet. Creative director Ditte Reffstrup lingered in the 70s for most of the collection, channeling quasihippie silhouettes through wide-legged dyed denim and off-the-shoulder tops and dresses, mostly at the same time. Paired with a series of gauche sunglasses, the ensemble added a (very) digestible speck of Vetements, the Zurich-based cult brand whose influence is felt across the board in Copenhagen. Under Reffstrup’s supervision, Ganni has mastered a fashion that is smart, fun, approachable, and never too intellectual — the kind of clothes that most contemporary consumers can understand and appreciate.

The collection itself was a familiar journey through a range of Ganni florals, both embroidered and printed, spilling at times into a virtual pressed flower album. Future best-selling (we predict)

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AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

ROCKING THE BOAT

Never has the fashion crowd looked so colourful and flowingly flowery as this season. Outside The Langelinie Pavilion waiting for the Saks Potts show to begin, many were dressed in the brand’s own pretty orange and red poppies pattern.

Time: 19:00 Place: Langelinie Allé 47 Words: Lotte Freddie

silk collection. Qipao iterations paraded down the runway as pastel colored sheepskin coats and jackets striped in mint, pink and white or checked in blue, white and black. Fur tassels and plastic sequins danced and shone from sheepskin and mohair coats or jackets in pink or moss green. White fox and sheepskin were checked in baby blue and black, and adorned with sky-blue fox collar and cuffs. Quite, quite lovely and playful, young and becoming. The same were pastel-printed bathing suits and wonderful shining silk qipaos in embroidered yellow or in white with SP printed in black. The final coat, a piece of art in mink was grey, striped in narrow waves of pink, brown, and white.

Inside, the runway was impressively decked out with generous backdrop curtains covered with SP prints and a pale blue carpet that matched the sea outside. Fashion connoisseur Cath Danneskiold Samsøe opened the show in a fabulous fox fur coat checked in candy floss pink, pale grey, and white. It was a sign of things to come — Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks’s eight collection portrayed the idea of summer tourist girls dressing up in crazily original ways, in old vintage furs and mum’s hats for an over-the-top fancy dress look to rock the boat on the high street or the beach’s boardwalk.

No wonder that Cathrine and Barbara’s four-yearold Saks Potts brand sells in the best boutiques in London, Paris, New York, Seoul, Italy, Germany, and Spain. Zai jian!

Besides the above, the qipao — China’s traditional women’s dress — is the inspiration for Saks Potts’s

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SAKS POTTS

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T U E SDAY W E D NESDAY T H U RSDAY F R I DAY S AT URDAY There are five days in the week of fashion. We have produced five tees to broadcast this truth, purchasable on copenhagenfashionweek.com Buy one and then strive to collect â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;em all by instagramming your look with #cphfw in a way no one else could imagine - and get another daily tee sent your way.

AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

QVARTZ is a management consulting company and like many fashion brands, we have Nordic roots but global reach. We are proud to support Copenhagen Fashion Week and indeed a range of Nordic fashion companies.

www.qvartz.com COPENHAGENFASHIONWEEK.COM

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AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

WOOD WOOD

Denmark’s favourite streetwear label Wood Wood celebrated the 15-year anniversary of its collaboration with adidas in folksy fashion for the everyman. Beer and soccer featured prominently. WORDS: MAGNUS JOREM PHOTO: SAHEL HAMDAM

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1. Bland is also a kind of street style. 2. They may not be Bel Ami twinks, exactly, but the boys of the Guldbergsgade Griffins sure can put on a show — only its watchability is up for debate. 3. The middle-aged soccer mom in me wonders why helmets are not at least encouraged for this sort of brutish move, even if they can’t be mandatory. 4. After years and years of Distortion-induced female evolution, the girls of Copenhagen are unafraid of filling their bladders at street parties. 5. Shoeboxes are great for storing your collection of Magic: The Gathering cards. 6. Miranda is a kewtshark hater. 7. Little Timmy and Eustace secretly have the largest collection of Wood Wood gear west of Valby Bakke. 8. This is what we imagined future apparel to look like in 1994. 9. The adidas x Wood Wood sneaker turns 15 this year. We can’t wait to see what’s in store for its Super Sweet Sixteen celebration next year on MTV. 10. Artistic fashion week posturing is for everyone, even grumpy men with theatricality bubbling beneath their harsh exteriors. 11. The word “line” can mean several things during fashion week; what divides its attendees is whether they stand in one or simply have one or two.

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AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

YVONNE KONÉ Accessories-purveyor Yvonne Koné chose a musically charged launch for its SS18 collection, gathering a pack of flawlessly dressed industry insiders with a lot on their minds. WORDS: MAGNUS JOREM PHOTO: SAHEL HAMDAM

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1. Singer/songwriter Jeuru Antoine is not Steve Bannon. He’s not trying to tuck his own sock. 2. It’s time to cELLEbrate! Johanne Brostrøm and Josephine Aarkrogh did so by elucidating the geo-strategic potentials for Beijing of the failed TransPacific Partnership initiative, and whether it means anything for the global market price of scrunchies. 3. Sakura-chic musician Pernille Rosendahl pre-empts your brainless criticism that she is stealing from the culture of Japan: “The entire history of culture is a history of appropriation!”, she boldly declared with this dress. 4. Members of the inner Yvonne K clan Annika and Johanna had a casual chat about engagement versus containment strategies vis-a-vis the DPRK in light of Pyongyang’s recently demonstrated missile-delivery capabilities. 5. ‘Zeen queens Cecilie Ingdal (ELLE) and Tina Nikolaisen (ALT for Damerne) pondered the merits of a hard versus a soft Brexit, but the conversation quickly drifted to how everyone should stop dissing avocado toast. 6. Creative director of his own Design Universe Mark Kenly Domino Tan sometimes also appears in other Design Universes. Design Universes are so hot right now. 7. The mysterious arts and textiles maven known only as Berit has a thing or two to say about Xi Jinping’s Belt and Road Initiative. 8. Wearing this outfit, editor-in-chief of IN Anne Axholm can curl her body into a yin-and-yang symbol, but as our photographer soon learned, she won’t do it for just anyone! 9. Model Josefine Vilholm Nielsen recently read the UN report recommending humanity to embrace insect cuisine as a means to reduce our eco-footprint. Sustainability is so hot right now. 10. Marie-Louise Guldbæk Andersen (of Cecilie Bahnsen) and Søs Christine Hejselbæk (of Mark Tan) enjoyed a quiet discussion about the coming robot revolution and its potential consequences for the Scandinavian labour market.

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Frame: MYKITA DECADES SUN BUENO | Photography: Mark Borthwick

AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

COPENHAGEN STREETSTYLE PHOTO: ADAM KATZ SINDING

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AUGUST 11

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FRIDAY EDITION

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AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

OPEN SCHEDULE Events that are open to all. No invitations necessary

MEDINA x CUSTOMMADE x BOOZT.COM MEVATION CHARITY COLLECTION TIME: 8-12 August PLACE: Custommade Flagship Store, Christian IX’s Gade 5, 10:00-18:00

C.P. COMPANY - THE ART OF GARMENT DYEING TIME: Friday, August 11, 16:00-19:00 PLACE: Kronprinsensgade 9b, Central Copenhagen LE MANAGEMENT X THE AM CREW X LE21ÈME X HÆRVÆRK TIME: Friday, August 11, 23:00-05:00 PLACE: Nørregade 41, Central Copenhagen

JULIE SANDLAU AW17 BAMBOO COLLECTION PREVIEW TIME: Friday, August 11, 10:00-18:00 PLACE: Gammel Mønt 4, 1117, Central Copenhagen

ELITE MODELS X MONCLER X CFW SS18 CLOSING PARTY TIME: Saturday, August 12, 23:30-05:00 PLACE: Nørregade 41, Central Copenhagen

SAKS POTTS X HOLLY GOLIGHTLY TIME: Friday, August 11, 15:00-19:00 PLACE: Store Regnegade 2, Central Copenhagen

THE TRADE FAIRS

SHOWROOMS AND EVENTS

CÎROC FASHION CELEBRATION TIME: Friday, August 11, 20:30-23:30 PLACE: Kunstforeningen Gl. Strand Læderstræde 15, Central Copenhagen By invitation only GESTUZ TIME: August 7-11, 09:00-12:00 PLACE: Store Kongensgade 95, Central Copenhagen By appointment only AIAYU SHOWROOM TIME: August 8-12, 08:00-20:00 PLACE; Dampfærgevej 2A, 2100 Østerbro By appointment only ANNE VEST TIME: August 8-12, 09:00-20:00 PLACE: Storeregnergade 5, second floor (Br. counting) Central Copenhagen By appointment only

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MASORÉ SS18 RELEASE EVENT TIME: August 11, 17:00-20:00 PLACE: Bredgade 56, Central Copenhagen By invitation only

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AUGUST 11

FRIDAY EDITION

SATURDAY OPEN EVENTS You are invited!

INSIDER’S SHOPPING GUIDE FEATURING SILLE HENNING

TIME: Saturday, August 12, 10:00-12:00 PLACE: Designers Remix, Pilestræde 8, Central Copenhagen NOTE: Danish-language Join in as the fashion director of ALT for Damerne, Sille Henning, leads an inspiring tour of her favourite stores in Copenhagen, presenting the trends of the season and offering personal styling tips. There will be surprises on the way... Read more and find tickets at billetto.dk

DESIGNERS’ LUNCH FEATURING DESIGNERS FROM THE CFW NEW TALENT SCENE

TIME: Saturday, August 12, 12:00-13:00 PLACE: Les Trois Cochons, Værnedamsvej 10, Vesterbro

Heliot Emil and Mai Svanhvit are two of the labels making their debuts on the Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule this season. They’re showing on Tuesday, August 8, during fashion week, but will reappear on Saturday, August 12, when we host a lunch with the designers behind these debuting labels, getting the lowdown on their new collections and the shows that presented them. We’ll have a talk about all that goes in to the show, what works underlies the runway spectacle, and most importantly how they work with their design universes as newly launched labels. Read more and find tickets at billetto.dk

ART WALK FEATURING FREDERIK LENTZ ANDERSEN

TIME: Saturday, August 12, 13:00-13:45 PLACE: V1 Gallery, Flæsketorvet 69, Vesterbro

Senior Fashion Director of Euroman and Eurowoman Frederik Lentz Andersen is guiding a tour of some of his favourite art galleries in the Danish capital. Come along to the galleries Eighteen and V1 in Vesterbro’s Meatpacking District for an exclusive look at their basement archives. Here, Frederik will talk about his relationships with these galleries and art in general, and offer anecdotes on how he uses art in his daily work at Euroman and Eurowoman, and for the art magazine Værk. Read more and find tickets at billetto.dk

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