DAILY COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
AUTUMN WINTER 2017
FEMMES
FATALES BY MALENE BIRGER
HOMECOMING
QUEEN ASTRID ANDERSEN
TURNING
A PAGE MUNTHE
DOMINO
EFFECT MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN
FRIDAY EDITION
FRIDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 3
“I VIEW COPENHAGEN AS THE FASHION CAPITAL OF SCANDINAVIA” PERNILLE TEISBÆK —
The stylist and former magazine editor Pernille Teisbæk co-founded the digital consultancy Social Zoo in 2016 with her partner Hannah Løffler and currently serves as digital strategic partner of Copenhagen Fashion Week. In 2016, Teisbæk published the book Dress Scandinavian, a guide to Scandinavian style.
How would you describe Scandinavian style and what are the characteristics of Scandinavian fashion?
What role does Copenhagen Fashion Week play on the Scandinavian fashion scene?
Personally, I view Copenhagen as the fashion capital of Scandinavia. In addition to our Danish design talents, Copenhagen has exciting offers within gastronomy, art and culture which creates a holistic experience for the visitors of the fashion week.
Over the past couple of seasons, Scandinavian style has developed in a more colourful and experimental direction – but I would usually define Scandinavian fashion as classic, casual and sleek and always with an element of surprise and designed with comfort in mind.
What are three things you don’t want to miss this fashion week?
I look very much forward to seeing lots of familiar international guests who are coming out to support Copenhagen Fashion Week. I’m also very excited about Cecilie Bahnsen’s show and the Opening Lunch at Copenhagen City Hall.
What could the designers of fashion capitals such as New York or Paris learn from Scandinavian designers?
The Scandinavian designers manage to strike an interesting balance between classic and whimsical design expressions, which gives it a distinctive character.
CONTRIBUTORS
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Camilla Frank
COPY EDITOR Louis Francisco Vernal
MANAGING EDITOR Frederik Højgaard
WRITERS Lotte Freddie, Courtney Forrest, Hege Badendyck, Marie Jedig, Line Hindsgaul, Marlene Tolbod Jakobsen, Magnus Jorem & Safiya Ismaili
ART DIRECTOR Thomas Blankschøn
COVER PHOTO Helle Moos
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PHOTOGRAPHERS Helena Lundquist, Elisabeth Eibye All catwalk photos by Helle Moos ILLUSTRATION Wendy Plovmand SALES Linda Ava Laursen
DISTRIBUTION Agnethe Schultz PRINT Trykkompagniet PUBLISHER Copenhagen Fashion Week
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HagenUhre Flower & Delights l Strandgade 26, 1401 København K www.hagenuhre.com l T: +45 27 21 33 00 l E: info@hagenuhre.com l @hagenuhre
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FEBRUARY 3
FROM US TO YOU
YOUR DAILY DOSE OF RECOMMENDATIONS FOR COPENHAGEN
SHINE BRIGHT
ALL YOU NEED UNDER ONE ROOF
LIKE A DIAMOND
If you’re anything like us, and your two greatest passions are fashion and food, Illum is a must visit. Within the last year, the elegant department store has added some of the world’s most exclusive brands to its portfolio. Saint Laurent, Prada, Valentino, Tod’s, and Salvatore Ferragamo all have a flagship store within the Illum grounds and multiple other luxury brands are available too. The department store’s top and bottom floors are dedicated to food aficionados, with Italian success concept, Eataly, taking up the entire basement and a wide variety of restaurants can be visited on the top level, while enjoying a view of Copenhagen.
If you’re looking to add some new shine to your life, make sure to visit The Jewellery Room today. The one-day jewellery trade fair and exhibition has one of the most beautiful and intimate locations in all of Copenhagen – the old church on Nikolaj Plads in the heart of the city centre. The two sisters behind the bedazzling event, Charlotte Møbjerg Ansel-Henry and Pernille Møbjerg Knudsen, take amazing care of their visitors and the exhibitioners are amongst the most interesting on the international jewellery scene right now.
Illum Østergade 52 1100 København K
Kunsthal Nikolaj Nikolaj Plads 10 1067 København K
PARKS & RECREATION LOOK UP UNDER GROUND If you need to shake the last couple of day’s hectic pace out of your body and clear your head, Copenhagen’s many parks are perfect for a run or casual stroll. Frederiksberg Have, Assistens Kirkegården, H.C. Ørstedsparken are all public parks, open from sunset to sundown and if you’re going for a morning jog, you can expect to be joined by many local early birds. Or you can walk around the city’s four lakes that will take you through the boroughs of Copenhagen. Frederiksberg Have Frederiksberg Runddel, 2000 Frederiksberg THE DAILY
Assistens Kirkegård Kapelvej 4, 2200 København N
H. C. Ørstedsparken Nørre Voldgade 1, 1358 København K
The metro is one of the easiest ways to get around Copenhagen. And the Metro Company are treating passengers to a little something extra these days. If getting off at the Kgs. Nytorv-stop, you should do yourself a favour and look up – we guarantee, it will make you smile. Here you’ll see the most beautiful, over-sized, pastel coloured, glasslike balloons hanging from the ceiling. It’s an art installation by Danish artist, Jeppe Hein, set up to encourage everyone to look up from their smartphones and newspapers.
Søerne (The Lakes) Dronning Louises Bro 1371 København
Kgs. Nytorv Metro Station 1050 København K 4
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TRADE
DESIGNER FAIR
DANES ARE WORLD CHAMPIONS AT DONATING USED TEXTILES
TALK
JETTE ROMVIG, DESIGN MANAGER, INWEAR How do you prepare for a day at the trade fairs?
I take very much part in the preparations for our own stand at the trade fair, meaning all the practicalities around photos, styling, clothing for the mannequins etc. As soon as the fair is open, it’s actually pure pleasure and inspiration for me! What does your day at the trade fairs look like?
I typically go to the trade fair on the first day to greet all of our sales people, colleagues from DKCompany and some of our clients. In addition to being in our own stand, I always go for a tour around the halls to see what the other brands have been doing and if any new brands are exhibiting. It always takes double the amount of time that I thought it would because, of course, you meet a hundred people you know when you have been in the business for as long as I have.
“Bring It” is H&M’s a worldwide World Recycle Week initiative, aimed towards inspiring and encouraging consumers to reduce textile waste. Last year, H&M’s Danish customers dropped off more than a hundred tons of textile waste in just one week. The Danish consumers appear to have embraced the concept, H&M’s Danish sustainability Manager, Mia Møgelgaard comments: “If we look at the total amount collected per country and calculate the average amount donated per citizen, the amount donated to Garment Collecting by Danish citizens is only overhauled by the Swiss. Naturally, we are very pleased with the impressive Danish result, which also indicates that the initiative is appre-
STAY IN STYLE
ciated and well-used by the Danes”. Mia Møgelgaard also states that the purpose of the “Bring It” campaign is first and foremost to create a platform, where one can discuss the central message; Used clothing deserves a new life and it should not end its life as garbage. H&M’s vision is to create a closed loop for textiles where unwanted clothing can be reused and recycled to create new textiles for new products, thereby changing the way fashion is produced and enjoyed. In week 5, every bag of unwanted textile dropped off in any H&M store, will be rewarded with two 15% off vouchers, that can be used on any item.
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STOP
What do you look the most forward to experiencing this season at the trade fairs?
ASTRID ANDERSEN NOMINATED BY: ELAINE HERSBY SHOW: THURSDAY 2 FEBRUARY 18.00 This is your first time showing womenswear on the Copenhagen show stage what do you expect?
It’s the first time we show womenswear independently anywhere, so I’m super exited about this. I’m not sure what to expect but I hope people will find it interesting and see the point of view within womenswear that I’m trying to communicate. I hope it can influence Copenhagen Fashion Week with a creative standpoint and show how a brand can be both commercial and creative with an independent direction. Why have you chosen to show your womenswear collection in Copenhagen?
I’m based in-between Copenhagen and London. I show menswear in London and it just seemed relevant, also in alignment with international sales week THE DAILY
to present the women’s in Copenhagen. My aesthetic is a result of working in between these two cities so that should be expressed in the presentations. Could you give us three keywords that describe your upcoming collection?
It’s opulent, textural, and cool. Where do you hope to see your brand in five years?
In five years, I hope I am in control of a growing business with independent retail and a global marketing outreach. I hope we will be secure within the business in a way that will allow me to explore the full potential of our creative reach branching into accessories, pre-collections, and international collaborations.
I’m very excited to see the colours this season. At InWear, we have chosen to turn up the colour palette and introduce for instance deep pink and amber shades to counteract the dark autumn colours, but it is always really interesting and very unpredictable what the other brands will be presenting.
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GREEN
CHEMICAL COTTON
35 % of the world’s insecticides, herbicides and pesticides are used in conventional cotton farming. These chemicals are hazardous to human health and the environment. The cheapest pesticides pose the greatest risk to workers’ health, but are the most widely used in developing countries, due to their low price. These hazardous chemicals can leach out into rivers, lakes, and groundwater. Pesticide poisoning is a major concern in developing countries, where drinking water is rarely monitored. Choosing organic cotton makes a difference for farm workers, the land and the people wearing the end products. 6
Hotel Skt. Petri is the ultimate laidback luxury hotel for the busy fashionista. Professional visitors of Copenhagen Fashion Week enjoy a 20% discount on all bookings by using the code CFW20. Skt. Petri is advantageously located in the heart of Copenhagen. Its strategic location and luxurious accommodation make juggling a busy fashion week schedule a breeze. The hotel offers 8 room types, ranging from the elegantly furnished standard rooms to the exceedingly spacious suite. Many of the rooms offer large balconies with a fantastic view of the bustling city of Copenhagen. Skt. Petri is being reimagined until spring, where it will have undergone a step-by-step transformation. Currently, most of the rooms have already been redesigned, reflecting the vision of creating a soul warming destination for art lovers and seasoned experienced seekers. The design of the reborn Skt. Petri seeks to reflect the aesthetic purity of the building and combine it with more soft and full bodied features.
MEAT PACKING MEETS MUMBAI Bollyfood in the Meat Packing district offers authentic, homemade Indian and Pakistani food. The food is made using traditional recipes and prepared with loving attention to detail. The menu includes classical, rich Indian dishes such as Butter Chicken and Chana masala, as well as lamb and lentil- based dishes. The aromatic dishes are served with fried rice, naan chaat (salad), two little dressings and a small dessert. True to the origins of the cuisine, both sweet and savoury Lassis (Indian yogurt-based drink) are on the drinks menu. The food is accustomed to the Scandinavian palate; spicy, but not hot. Everything on the menu is available as takeaway.. Bollyfood Slagterboderne 10, 1716 Copenhagen K COPENHAGENFASHIONWEEK.COM
CATHRINEHOLM
HÅNDLAVEDE SKÅLE MED NOSTALGI Stripes Collection er designet af den internationalt anerkendte emaljekunstner, Grete Prytz Kittelsen, som samarbejdede med det norske jernværk Cathrineholm gennem 1950erne og 60erne. Skålene er håndlavede, hvilket gør hver enkel skål helt unik. Forhandles i din lokale Imerco eller på imerco.dk
FRIDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 3
LUNCHING WITH LOVECHILD
Opting out of the show schedule does not mean skipping fashion week, as evidenced by Lovechild 1979’s initiative to host a lunch for the general public on February 4, presenting the latest collection, which is available in stores now. We sat down with the brand’s creative director, Anne-Dorthe Larsen, for a chat about meeting your end consumer and why fashion immediacy is increasingly driving the need to rethink the fashion show. WORDS
marlene toldbod jakobsen safiya ismaili
TRANSLATION:
What kind of collection will you be presenting?
Like previously, this collection is not based on rules for trends and fashion in general. It is made with cross-seasonal usage in mind. We call this theme “Made with Love”. We started out at SS17 by giving the brand a more feminine twist than previously, and the choice of material for this collection, such as silk satin, silk twill, and French brocades, strengthens this. Another boundary we are trying to push is the age of our end consumer by adding elements to the collection that appeals to a younger consumer, but still having it be something that I would wear at my age. Just styled differently. And then we are back to the essence of Lovechild, which is about bringing the clothes to life with one’s own personality.
Since you are not doing a show, why do you consider this a good way to present the collection?
What I find interesting with this initiative is that it presents a unique opportunity to personally meet the end consumer, and give them an exclusive presentation of the AW17 collection in a gorgeous yet casual setting and hear their thoughts. Getting the opportunity to experience personal contact and dialogue with the consumer is a great pleasure and very constructive. I don’t necessarily see this lunch as a substitute for a show as we are communicating with two different target groups, but nevertheless, it is a very good and unique initiative. Therefore, if we did have a show this season, I think we still would have done this – granted that I could find the time for it, of course
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This is the kind of event where fashion meets food, in an exhibition-type setting, what is interesting about this combination?
I think this set-up contains several elements that most people can relate to and appreciate. Being in comfortable and beautiful surroundings while enjoying a delicious lunch and getting a presentation from a brand that you like is something I believe will give our guests the feeling of being pampered to on all levels. I hope so, at least.
Why is important for you as a designer to meet your target group?
I find it very exciting to get the opportunity to gain insight into who our audience is. I believe that we can learn a lot from the end consumer, both in relation to design and communication, and I would be able to provide them with insight as to who I am, the design process, and answer any questions they may have for me. So I think it will be a positive experience for both parties. I look very much forward to it.
Is consumer engagement more important today, than previously
I find meeting our audience particularly interesting today, since everything, thanks to the digitalization, happens at such fast pace and everyone, professionals as well as “amateurs”, has voices that speak equally loud. Everyone is an expert and can express their opinion, and we get direct feed back on everything we do. It is very exciting. It is very important to have insight into what in your brand drives sale and
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what makes it relatable. The buyers are equally important, but we’re already communicating directly with them. A fashion show is ten minutes, where we can communicate the brand’s DNA, vision, and universe to the professionals, but it is sometimes a challenge to get the same message to the end consumer. I believe shows are important, but in my opinion, there are many other ways of reaching and communicating with consumers, buyers, and press. I am looking forward to seeing if this could be one of them. Why is it important that a fashion week is inclusive and offers something for everyone?
I like the idea of opening some aspects for the general public who are not part of the fashion industry and thereby giving them insight into an industry that has always been a little shrouded in mystery. The industry has always been a bit secretive, especially at the time when the collection was shown to professionals six months before everyone else. Fashion was a site where one was not afraid to dream, and that is something I think we should celebrate; at the same time, it is wonderful to be able to invite fashion-interested people in, for them to closely experience their passion and big interest. I wish I would have been given this opportunity when I was younger and not yet a part of this world.
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QVARTZ is a management consulting company and like many fashion brands, we have Nordic roots but global reach. We are proud to support Copenhagen Fashion Week and indeed a range of Nordic fashion companies.
www.qvartz.com
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FEBRUARY 3
GLOBAL AMBITIONS Under the creative direction of Roy Krejberg, Ivan Grundahl is back in the show schedule just eight months after the passing of the founder and designer behind the namesake label. While sticking to their Danish roots, Ivan Grundahl is looking to an increasingly international audience. WORDS
frederik højgaard
Following the passing of their founder Ivan Grundahl, in May 2016, the team had to act fast. Ivan’s son Oliver Grundahl took up the baton and assumed the position of CEO. One of the most urgent matters was appointing a person to spearhead the design team, and in August the brand announced the former Kenzo designer and Peachoo+Krejberg founder, Roy Krejberg, as their newly appointed Creative Director. When Fashion Forum’s Henrik Ralf Nielsen met Krejberg in November, Krejberg had recently begun dividing his time between his hometown Paris and Copenhagen after finding himself more involved in the Ivan Grundahl project than anticipated, as the original plan was to direct the design team from Paris: “It was a challenge to find the right person for the job as chief designer so I ended up being involved in everything from putting together the collection to photoshoots. In the end, Oliver asked me to work on the AW17 collection which I accepted,” Krejberg told Fashion Forum. When asked for a comment a few days before the show in Copenhagen, Krejberg tells us that he now acts more as a turnaround person, fully involved with the brand and its future development: “I see myself as turnaround person, I’m going through everything that the company does. I’m involved in the commercial process and in shaping the brand image. Among other things, we have created a magazine that will be published right after the show with beautiful collection imagery and curated works of art by Claus Carstensen. The point is to provide the full picture of the collection and not just show off the clothes as in a catalogue,” Krejberg elaborates. Going global One of Krejberg’s main goals for the revamped Ivan Grundahl brand is to secure its international distribution, something THE DAILY
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that is reflected in the AW17 collection: “With this collection, I wanted to work with the DNA of the house but also to create something that has an international expression. I think of the whole world as the market for the label. I have worked on modernising the cuts and the fit of the clothes and the shape has become more important than it previously was in this house. The inspiration is rather Nordic, but the collection has to be international,” Krejberg says. In November, Krejberg told Fashion Forum that finding qualified workers was one of many challenges involved with working at a Danish brand, as very few people in Denmark know how to drape. Krejberg is used to working in the Japanese way, sculpting the styles directly on the stand. Yet he is pleased with the outcome of the collection: “I think it turned out to be a great collection. I’m very pleased with it. It fulfils the ideas I had when I started working on it and the things I wanted to push forward. When the difficult draping techniques were involved, I would do them myself and pass them on to the atelier.” When asked about the future of the brand, Krejberg emphasises his work for increasing Ivan Grundahl’s international distribution and presenting the collections in an upmarket space. He is involving acquaintances from his Paris network to get the brand into the best retailers all over the world, and important international buyers are already interested in the new collection. Though he is introducing the brand in the showrooms in Paris, Krejberg insists that Ivan Grundahl’s roots are deeply anchored in Denmark: “It’s a Danish brand and it will stay that way. But in the future, it will be a Danish brand that has a bigger focus on the international market than before. The plan is to keep showing the collections on the catwalk in Copenhagen.” COPENHAGENFASHIONWEEK.COM
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FEBRUARY 3
SCI-FI NOSTALGIA MARTIN ASBJØRN
The Martin Asbjørn show was held at CIFF, which is quite a clinical and impersonal arena. Yet both the energetic crowd and the hint of smoke on the runway sat the tone for a raw and intense 80’s inspired show. Martin Asbjørn himself says he was inspired by the cult movie Bladerunner for this collection with references to both sci-fi and punk rock. He has dug into the notion of the 80’s and on the thought of what the future would look like from the eyes of a 80’s youth - with all its nostalgia and visions of new times ahead. Quite a different direction than that of his earlier collections. The look from his 70’s spring collection had been transferred into a raw, dark, tough, and futuristic collection. There were several great outerwear pieces; an alpaca wool coat, heavy
shearling jackets, both for men and women, alongside a great, classic biker jacket, some velvet pants, and metallic silver leather pants. The cool, printed tees and the 80’s baseball caps that were shown several times through the show are sure to be a hit amongst the hipsters and the street style darlings for next season. Martin Asbjørn has so far only done menswear, but there’s no doubt that there are several girls out there who have borrowed their boyfriends’ Asbjørn pieces over the last years. That’s maybe why it felt quite natural when the designer announced that he was launching women’s wear alongside the men’s. Yet Asbjørn’s female looks didn’t stand out as the strongest part of the show, and I still believe many girls will keep stealing their boyfriends’ Asbjørn-pieces.
Time: Wednesday, 16.00 Place: Hotel CIFF Words: Hege Badendyck
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FEBRUARY 3
QUEEN OF THE COURT ASTRID ANDERSEN
Citing “overwhelming support from the city of Copenhagen” as the reason for her return to fashion week here, Astrid Andersen’s much-anticipated and triumphant homecoming to debut her first-ever dedicated womenswear collection was a fitting finale to fashion week.
Basketball is a perennial point of reference for Andersen, which was evident throughout -- cut-away button detailing, warmup suits, bathrobe cardis. Her woman has swagger -- a baller/shot-caller. Rich, textural materials (corduroy, velvet, Sophie Hallette lace, feathers and furs) in a regal palette (navy, aubergine, gold) are cut to flatter the female form – fit for the Queen to “King James”.
Shown at &Tradition, a furniture showroom on Papirøen, the cavernous space was expertly set-designed to create an intimate show experience, as did the bespoke mix by poet, musician and DJ James Messiah.
The must-have flat cap hats in velvet and brocade, done in partnership with New Era, could very well have been a collaboration between Shakespeare and LL Cool J. Further expanding into accessories, is the launch of the brand’s first sunglasses range.
A complement to her highly-regarded menswear collection presented at the recent London Fashion Week Mens, Andersen describes her womenswear as “sports-inspired luxury for a generation of women looking to express themselves at a time when gender is not so strictly defined.”
The all-star – a fur half-chubby, half-stole was, forgive me, a SLAM DUNK. Welcome home, Astrid.
Her design aesthetic is informed by her constant travel between Copenhagen and London, and translated through a seamless combination of courtly and casual, the juxtaposition of opulent eras with modern urban life.
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Time: 18.00 Location: &Tradition Showrooom Words: Courtney Forrest
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FEBRUARY 3
FRIDAY EDITION
THE POWER OF FEMINITY BY MALENE BIRGER
Time: 12.00 Location: KBH Volume Words: Marie Jedig
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Entering a dark, industrial hall together with the Danish fashion elite isn’t something you get to do every day and the situation somehow filled the room with high expectations like before a concert or a play. A round scene was set in the dark, centred around an amazing blue lightning wire art installation hanging from the ceiling.
black, glitter, navy, and khaki green and a collection containing both floating dresses with rhinestones attached, bomber jackets and classic suits, of course properly accessorized with big earrings, fur scarves, and gorgeous bags sold as a “see now buy now” statement immediately after the show finished.
Intense factory sounds started playing, followed by a heavy base turning into a beautiful melody. The spotlights turned on and a strong collection, screaming POWER OF FEMINITY, starting walking down the runway, making me extremely proud of my sex:
By Malene Birger showed us that a modern lady embraces her sexuality and dares to wear long, pointy red patent leather boots - matching her nail polish, animal print, and suits fitted to her female form. She’s aware of her appeal and sexiness and dresses for herself, not a norm decided by men, and she should not fight the power of feminism like a man – but like a true power woman.
The show presented a colour palette consisting of bright red, bordeaux,
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FRIDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 3
POETIC UNDERTONES MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN
Mark Kenly Domino Tan is without doubt one of the greatest designers on the Danish fashion scene. Hence, the expectations were once again high amongst the show goers. The lovely location at Normann Copenhagen and the piano music played before show gave associations to the old salon presentations, an elegant welcoming indeed. Tan is a designer that worships craftsmanship, high quality materials, and the art of tailoring. This is also why his collections are amongst the strongest this season. The first looks were all soaked in grey, and the combination of wool and raw silk created a feminine universe. A clear focus on the waistline with dark brown belts and several a-lined, voluminous skirts, stopping just over the ankles defined the silhouette. Except for some all black, minimalistic looks, there was a romantic and poetic undertone
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throughout the show. Blouses with wide, voluminous sleeves, sculptural tailoring details, the a-lined voluminous skirts, some covered with beautiful flower embroideries in dark green and orange, were paired with cropped, tailored blazers gathered with a waist belt to keep the all feminine silhouette. An amazingly cut evening dress in wool, styled with a classic silk blouses, with voluminous sleeves underneath shaped a seductive and elegant look, a favourite look indeed. The interpretation of the thigh high boots in grey wool put the ususally high, tacky boots in a totally new light - chic and sophisticated. While the oversized clutches in striped cotton or ocher yellow velvet balanced the most elegant looks, and gave them exactly the edge needed.
Time: 11.00 Place: Normann Copenhagen Words: Hege Badendyck
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Showroom: Svanholmsvej 12a, Frederiksberg C AW17 | modone.dk
FRIDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 3
O.K. SO I LIED MUNTHE
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It’s been three years since Naja Munthe last presented her clothes during Copenhagen Fashion Week. Back then the brand had another name, a co-designer, and a whole other aesthetic and design DNA. Set in a skater park Munthe set the tone for the collection with six young skaters doing their thing with their boards wearing cool sweatshirts with the text: ‘O.K. so I lied.’ A fun and carefree sentence, which summons up the collection quite well. The new Munthe girl is young, fun, and far from the bohemian style the brand once used to lead.
long silk printed kimono-like coat. A look consisting of only wardrobe staples that every girl would look and feel effortlessly chic in.
Cool cat Nadja Bender opened the show wearing white track pants with slits and red side stripes, a white ‘Ok, so I lied’ tee - that has already been product placed on bloggers and it-girls of the season and is available for purchase in stores right now – and a light knee
But it was definitely the cool track-pants and the perfectly oversized hoodies that stole the show and felt new. For Munthe at least.
As the clothes emerged on the catwalk it became clear that the new Munthe girl is a sporty and cool creature who’s not afraid to combine short skirts with cool hoodies or a gold lamé skirt with a camo printed jacket. With mostly white, navy, and red colours the collection continued with cute ruffled leather skirts, fluffy fake furs and an occasionally pair of box pants in raw denim.
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Time: 15.00 Place: Copenhagen Skatepark Words: Line Hindsgaul
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FEBRUARY 3
FRIDAY EDITION
6o’S MEET 9o’S ELAINE HERSBY
Time: 16.00 Place: Teatermuseet i Hofteatret Words: Hege Badendyck
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With a broad experience in the fashion industry, both educationally and professionally, Hersby continues to draw much of her inspiration from urban lifestyle and travels with a functionality as a base. This time though the vibe was darker, and the Hersby-girl felt like a rebellious cool cat from the underground scene; a quite interesting contrast to the show venue a beautiful, small theatre scene at Teatermuseet i Hofteatret.
emphasized the vibe even more. The stretch mini dresses with draped details in silver, and the miniskirts worn over matching straight-legged pants were all an ode to the intense and raw decade, alongside with the classic Dr Martens.
Debuting in the spring of 2014 she presented her eighth collection today, and the inspiration was mainly drawn from both the 60’s and the 90’s.
The boucle theme, like an oversized down jacket with matching dress, was probably the strongest pieces, but somehow it almost felt like another collection. A collection that I would definitely love to see next season.
Colour-wise it was combinations of black and red, and black and burgundy - a quite gloomy, dark palette.
For the 90’s references there were the baggy pants with the really oversized pockets that was teamed up with body con tank tops, which felt like they were directly taken out of the rave scene of the nineties. One of the models even had a big tribal tattoo on her back, which
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FRIDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 3
ACCESSIBLE GLAMOUR JESPER HØVRING
Fashion is politics. The attention given to the popular Michelle Obama was of enormous importance to the fashion industry. As might now the choices of the young women of the new First Family in The White House result in. In Europe it is the young Royals who catch the eyes of the media and its users. In Denmark the Crown Princess Mary is admired for her taste and clothes – which has landed her in the magazine Vanity Fair’s famous Best Dressed List. Indeed this year she has achieved being elevated to the eternal grandest level - the Hall of Fame. One of her favorite designers must be pleased, Jesper Høvring; whose midnight blue gala dress HRH wore in the photo accompanying Vanity Fair’s best dressed article. Høvring is famous for party wear and couture, but yesterday he presented a new line: “H” by Jesper Høvring, which is about more everyday wear, at more everyday prices. Easy ready- to wear-dresses you don’t have to wait for to being fitted and made.
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The idea came through in cleverly making the dresses in both short and long versions. Like in lovely lace in black or in a dull green striped with lavender - an unusual and attractive mix. Suits had narrow waists often a light peplum and the trousers often gallooned in white with a matching white band on the jacket. Very becoming and quite sexy –as are trousers in bottle green or black velour and black embroidered lace jacket sleeves. Grey was never dull as it was totally glitter sprinkled in a short, gathered skirt - this cut worked better than too tight pencil skirts, which makes you look cheap. Beautiful midnight blue and gold brocade glimmered as skirts, peplums and tapered trousers. Typical Høvring glamour, at H prices.
Time: 14.00 Place: &Tradition Showroom Words: Lotte Freddie
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FEBRUARY 3
FRIDAY EDITION
HYPE BEAST MUF10
Perhaps the most hyped show on the fashion week schedule, Muf10 has been described by some fashion insiders as the “Vetements of Denmark”. The brand itself, however, prefers “a sanctuary for everybody with street in the blood and couture in the heart.” To be sure, Muf10 is street-style for the street-style set, a significant number of whom made up the crowd at the Bella Center for the brand’s debut catwalk collection. A pumping soundtrack by Jamaika set the tone against an industrial backdrop of Freja shipping trailers. The trend forecast for the season clearly included rain, as most looks were styled with anoraks or rain jackets - perfect for
jamming, and ‘gramming, at Roskilde and Glastonbury. The brand’s ubiquitous logo on gender-neutral velvet tracksuits, boilersuits, sweats, and screen-printed tees will delight devotees, however some of the women’s pieces - specifically the high-waisted lace and puckered pants should never see the light of day – unless on the bike ride home from the club. Is the hype justified? Too soon to tell. But one needs to be careful not to confuse “custom made” with “couture”. With less than 20 looks, Reza Etamadi gave us a taste of his flavour, but we’re going to need to see a bit more before crowning him “the next big thing.”
Time: 13.00 Place: CIFF Words: Courtney Forrest
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THURSDAY EDITION
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FEBRUARY 2
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FEBRUARY 3
MUF1o RUNWAY Is Muf10 a label launched from the Danish sidewalks, or a full-on movement bouncing around that very same surface? The Thursday crowd certainly posed some apt questions. WORDS PHOTOGRAPHY
Model Eiram (@eiramofficial) has found success with her “Oompa-Loompa-Head-to-Toe” collection, sustainably sourcing bio-renewable remaints from Willy Wonka’s labor-law-deficient factory.
George Michael was not present at the event, but S!vas certainly was. And that should be enough for all of us.
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Bloggers AnnaSofia and Lotta aspire to rekindle a certain Jack’n’Meg-White fashion magic, though with handbags and booze instead of instruments and drugs. The Trump era hadn’t officially started until manager Lasse T wore his maroon suit / black fedora / virgin gloves set to dazzle everyone, including model Kristoffer F.
In search of Eleven, the three boy stars of Stranger Things stood on each others’ shoulders under massive drapery as a single, towering figure, announcing themselves as “Marc-Henri Ngandu, fashion photographer.”
At the very moment musician Freja Kirk realized what massive global human catastrophes lie ahead, model/actress Sus Wilkins remembered that kittens exist.
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If you say one more word then heat-tech-design experimentalists Casper G and Darline H will gladly add your dead fat corpse to their puffy outerwear stuffings.
Hair- and makeup stylist Nikoline Skaarup was the greatest beneficiary of the recent Barnum and Baily bankruptcy, purchasing at a tremendous discount the circus’s tent fabrics and discarded animals
Frequent flyer Silas Viet Kieffer collects not only bonus points from Air Siberia but also its famous Emergency Landing Polar Bathrobes.
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FEBRUARY 3
FRIDAY EDITION
DRIVING CHANGE
Thursday morning, Eva Kruse, CEO of Danish Fashion Institute & Global Fashion Agenda, received The Human Rights Prize of the French embassy for her trailblazing work towards making the global fashion industry more sustainable and her remarkable achievement creating Copenhagen Fashion Summit. Kruse was applauded by industry peers, politicians, and friends as she received the prize. WORDS PHOTOGRAPHY
Pia Allerslev, Mayor for Children and Youth, and Pernille Møbjerg Knudsen, co-founder of The Jewellery Room.
Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave from Baum und Pferdgarten with Kim Grenaa, Creative Director of Grenaa Creative and The-Counsel.
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Johan Arnø Kryger, Chief Learning Officer of Global Fashion Agenda
Eva Kruse giving her acceptance speech.
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The gorgeous backdrop for the reception at the French Embassy’s Palais Thott.
Editor in Chief of Elle Denmark, Cecilie Cecilie Ingdal Christiansen. 25
Eva Kruse and French ambassador to Denmark, François Zimeray. THE DAILY
FRIDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 3
GIRL POWER
Thursday’s By Malene Birger show challenged everyone to be their own muse and proved that empowerment is always in style WORDS PHOTOGRAPHY
Countess Cath Danneskiold-Samsøe and songstress Pernille Rosendahl.
Musician Lina Rafn.
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Japanese fashion writer Yu Masui.
Musician Oh Land.
Creative Director, Social Zoo, Pernille Teisbæk.
SOIRÉE DANOISE
After Astrid Andersen’s stellar conclusion to the show lineup, DANSK Magazine invited fashion week VIPs to a celebratory dinner at Galleri Christian Andersen. WORDS frederik højgaard PHOTOGRAPHY helena lundquist
Costume’s Rikke Christensen, Alt for Damerne’s Sille Henning, and Copenhagen Fashion Week CEO Camilla Frank.
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Costume’s Jeanette Friis Madsen and Thora Valdimars with Norwegian blogger Janka Polliani.
Designer Mark Kenly Domino Tan.
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Model Nadja Bender.
MyTheresa’s Tiffany Hsu and Interview Magazine’s Miguel Enamorado.
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Are you the #ultimate #fashion Firstmover?
I mostly adore ? @gigihadid
@lilyrose_depp
My key accessorie is:
???
My #OOTD is probably?
#Gameover : Really? You are totally lost at instagram if you don’t know #OOTD means outfit of the day among #Igers... #Gameover : You are an oldie but goodie! #Sorrybutyouneedtothinkforwardandtrynewstuff.
My favorite destination of all times?
Talking bags... I would go for:
On my nightstand is currently?
By W. B ruce Ca meron
By Hanya Yanagihara
The Olympia Tan Favorite
The oversized Balenciaga tote
The Loewe puzzle bag (in a rare colour combination of course)
Seriously? Museum I visit once a month (If my travelling life would allow)
In my Smythhson
In my bag -my precious fashion notes are best kept? Using Audio Memo
#backtostart #tryagain
DIA, NYC
While at work - I prefer to drink:
#Gameover No Excuse!
MOCA, LA
The #almost #there #fashionlover -only a few adjustments before you enter the elite fashion society!
Congratulations! You are The #ultimate #fashion #firstmover – you know fashion before it gets to be exactly that!
The #I #just #love #fashion #want #to #work #with #whatever #possible – as long as its fashion!
FRIDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 3
STREET
STYLE
Layering up to defy the frosty Danish winter, the Copenhagen crowd donned street style favourites like the bright Balenciaga puffer jackets, Saks Potts coats and Loewe’s elephant purse. WORDS frederik PHOTOGRAPHY style
højgaard du monde
DARJA BARANNIK IN LÆRKE ANDERSEN
LOEWE ELEPHANT PURSE
JANKA POLLIANI IN SAKS POTTS
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FEBRUARY 3
FRIDAY EDITION
LISA AIKEN IN VÊTEMENTS
JULIE BLICHFELD IN SAKS POTTS
TIFFANY HSU IN BALENCIAGA YU MASUI IN BALENCIAGA AND LOEWE COPENHAGENFASHIONWEEK.COM
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FRIDAY EDITION
FEBRUARY 3
EXCLUSIVE OPEN FASHION EVENTS presented by copenhagen fashion week
Spend this Saturday in the company of some of Danish fashion’s most interesting ladies and get a taste of the fashion week as it comes to an end. You don’t want to miss these events, and there are still a few tickets left, so get yours now! TICKETS FOR SALE AT COPENHAGENFASHIONWEEK.COM
10.30 SATURDAY 4 FEBRUARY SHOPPING SPREE WITH SILLE HENNING Get a fashion insider’s tips on the best shopping in Copenhagen and a taste of the upcoming season’s trends when ALT for Damerne’s fashion director Sille Henning takes you shopping. Sille Henning earns her living by knowing what’s in and what’s out in fashion. With her many years of experience in the business, she has had her favourite boutiques picked out for a long time. Join us for a trip to her favourite shops and find out why they made her personal list of favourites and get her best tips on what to buy this season.
12.30 SATURDAY 4 FEBRUARY LUNCH AT BEAU MARCHÉ WITH LOVECHILD 1979 Enjoy a lovely lunch and an exclusive preview of the next Lovechild 1979 collection with the brand’s creative director Anne-Dorthe Larsen at Beau Marché. Anne-Dorthe Larsen has picked her favourite place in the city and invites you to lunch with Lovechild 1979 and Nué. Enjoy a delicious lunch in the lovely surroundings of Beau Marché and let the creative director take you behind the scenes of her design universe and aesthetics as well as the process behind the creation of the beautiful collections. Get an exclusive first peek of the latest Lovechild 1979 collection that will hit stores later this year.
13.30 SATURDAY 4 FEBRUARY ART WALK AT SMK WITH ANNE LOSE Challenge your perception of art vs fashion at the art walk with Eurowoman’s editor-in-chief Anne Lose at The National Gallery of Denmark. Anne Lose has chosen her favourite works of art and will - in conversation with museum inspector Henrik Holm - take you inside the stories behind the art pieces and how they influence the editor-in-chief ’s daily work.
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FEBRUARY 3
FRIDAY EDITION
EVENTS OF THE DAY SAINT TROPEZ
THE MUF10 AFTERPARTY AW17
Saint Tropez celebrates Copenhagen Fashion Week by spoiling you in our colourful NAILSINC “spray-on” nail bars. 16.00-19.00 Saint Tropez Købmagergade 42 / Vimmelskaftet 43 Copenhagen K Open to all
CPH afterparty AW17 21.00-04.00 BLOW Club Hauser Plads 32 Copenhagen K Open to all
GLOCAL GARDEN
LE MANAGEMENT X KENZO X MATIGNON X PARIS X 12AM (LIVE)
Issue 08 of the digital slow fashion magazine, Less Magazine, will be released on Friday the 3rd og February at VESS Gallery. 17.00-21.00 Galleri VESS Oehlenschlægergade 36 Copenhagen V Open to all
We hereby invite you to the fashion week party in collaboration with the model agency Le Management, the world-famous fashion house KENZO, the high-end nightclub Matignon from Paris and the upcoming singer 12AM from Toronto, Canada. 23.30-05.00 ARCH Nørregade 41 Copenhagen K Open to all
TRADE FAIRS
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REVOLVER COPENHAGEN INT. FASHION TRADE SHOW
CIFF
CIFF KIDS
Revolver Village Halmtorvet 11 Copenhagen V www.revolver.dk
Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S www.ciff.dk
Forum Copenhagen Julius Thomsens Plads 1 Frederiksberg C www.ciff.dk
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Revolver Copenhagen International Fashion Trade Show Revolver Village Entrance / Øksnehallen Halmtorvet 11, DK-1700 Copenhagen V Revolver Copenhagen Int. Fashion Trade Show represents the most progressive contemporary Scandinavian design driven fashion brands mixed with likeminded quality brands from the rest of the world. Revolver is a unique order-platform for both mens- and women’s wear, which attracts the best buyers from the Nordic region as well as the best international buyers, in order to do business, discover and network.
Opening hours Wednesday 1st of February: 09:00 am - 07:00 pm Thursday 2nd of February: 10:00 am - 07:00 pm Friday 3rd of February: 10:00 am - 04:00 pm
Download the Revolver app Download the ”Revolver Fashion Trade Show” app in App Store or Google Play, and find the exhibiting brands and your own way through Revolver Village.
See you in Revolver Village! www.revolver.dk