AUTUMN WINTER 2012
dansk daily
proud sponSOr of
FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3RD
Reviews · Baum und Pferdgarten, MUNTHE PLUS SIMONSEN, DAY
Reviews · Stine Goya, Anne Sofie Madsen, Terminal-2
Cover Photo BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN by Simon B. Mørch
Max Factor Look of the Day · Day Birger et Mikkelsen
TREND · NOSTALGIC MINIMALISM
Feature · Hollywood’s affair with fashion
A stronger, sexier Bruuns Bazaar
dansk daily FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3RD
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EDITORIAL
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SWEET NOSTALGIA editorial Once upon a time, being an air hostess would channel the glamour of the fashion world. At least that’s what we learn from Pan Am, the TV show whose influence currently manifests itself on the pages of British Vogue and in Karl Lagerfeld’s choice of setting for his couture show — an airplane. Yesterday, model Malene Knudsen walked onto the podium at Copenhagen City Hall wearing a stunning turquoise outfit, a look and feel that she might have snatched from a 1950s stewardess. She hadn’t, of course. The collection was 24 carat Baum und Pferdgarten. But their clothes had an air of sweet nostalgia, advocating a trend presented by several other designers this Copenhagen Fashion Week: An ambition to create new classics reworking vintage inspiration. This tendency seems to eclipse fashion’s recent flirt with futurism. It also goes
hand in hand with the increased focus on consumer sustainability and the new love of luxurious minimalism represented by the refined wools, cashmeres and furs seen in a variety of collections. Reworking the classics, Baum und Pferdgarten showed a beautiful leopard-printed fur and leather interpretation of the trench coat. Rützou’s jewel- and dusty-colored palette was inspired by 1930s Shanghai, and Bruuns Bazaar boasted a remarkably stylish early 1960s look with turtlenecks, pant suits, and the slim trousers that also appeared at the shows of Veronica B. Vallenes and Spon Diogo. Again, the longing for old school glamour appeared at Terminal-2, where stylist Simon Rasmussen showed moon boots and ski goggles with a fabulous Brigitte Bardot/Lana Del Rey hair thing going on.
despite the allure of the past, there’s no need to regret living in the present. Ten years ago, Copenhagen Fashion Week had eight shows. Today, we enjoy a cacophony of voices expressing their individual visions. Now, young Scandinavian designers find a unique platform for refining their aesthetic identity. Wackerhaus perfects her sculptural, organic Nordic elegance, Spon Diogo their sharp tailoring and graphic silhouette. And with her recent fashion week debut, the talented, adventurous Anne Sofie M a d s e n h a s fo u n d a ( r u n ) way to s o p h i st i c ate her designer DNA. The question remains, who will be the next big player to follow in the footsteps of the likes of Day and Designers Remix. Maybe one of the graduates from TEKO or tomorrow’s Designer’s Nest? Let’s keep ‘em coming.
Another trend, just as sweet but perhaps more consistent, reveals that
Iben Albinus Sabroe EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
CONTRIBUTORS PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Iben Albinus Sabroe CREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT COORDINATOR Rozanna Fritz PROJECT COORDINATOR Jacob Petersen ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo & Mikkel Møller · IRONFLAG SUBEDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson BEAUTY EDITOR Mikkel Hyldebrandt EDITORIAL ASSISITANT Rasmus Peter Sandberg Sloth WRITERS Elsebeth Mouritzen, Kristine Kaalund, Lotte Freddie, Rikke Dyrholm, Sille Henning, Stinne Jensen PHOTOGRAPHERS Simon B. Mørch, Paw Gissel, Copenhagen Fashion Week DISTRIBUTION Cath Møss, Julie Christine Kühne, Stina Ildor Jacobsgaard PRINT Berlingske Avistryk
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pilgrim.dk / find nearest retailer at pilgrim.dk/stores
dansk daily FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3RD
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news
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MUGSHOT, BORN 2010, COPENHAGEN Whenever the Dansk Daily team has its mugshots taken, we prefer to swing by the MUGSHOT salon and have our bushes trimmed. During Copenhagen Fashion Week the creative minds behind MUGSHOT commit their crimes with Morrocan Oil and Salonsupport as confederates – making fashion week look even better. Post Fashion Week we are so totally going to MUGSHOT – Herluf Trollesgade 26A, 1052 KBH K for a well-deserved treatment.
Insid e C op en h agen Christiane Schaumburg-Müller, actress and Denmark’s most glamorous TV hostess, shares her tips on how to enjoy our gorgeous capital. What’s your favorite place for lunch in the city? I love Danish smørrebrød and often have it at Kanal Caféen at Frederiksholms Kanal, or at Restaurant Kronborg on Brolæggerstræde. Where’s the best place to go out in Copenhagen, right now? I actually prefer restaurants, like Mash, Bistro Boheme and Fischer’s. And then I top off with a hotel bar like Library Bar at Copenhagen Plaza or Nimb. Where do you go for a unique shopping experience in Copenhagen? Green Square on Strandlodsvej in the Amager district is a great place to look for antiques, which I have a thing for. It’s a very inspiring experience.
Fas h ion on a hig h er lev el In a country where designer stars so far have been synonymous with Arne Jacobsen and Hans Jørgen Wegner for their classy chairs, it’s quite the news story when respected names in academia publish an ambitious work on fashion. Design scholars Lars Dybdahl and Ida Engholm are the duo behind Klædt på til skindet, in English Dressing Up – The Culture and Aesthetics of Fashion, a voluminous new study of the meaning of fashion from the birth of couture to contemporary art in fashion. Finally!
Creati ve ed itor R oz anna lo v es the Supre m e/ N orth F ace collection supremenewyork.com
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P RO D U C T O F TH E D A Y Lovin’ those lips It’s a lipstick jungle out there. The recent revival of vibrant lip color has spawned countless new shades
LOVE IS…
and textures, making the choice of what to wear on
Magic mushrooms, rabbits with bows, penguins with tuxedo jackets and
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It’s also the inspiration for the two designers behind SOFT GALLERY, Barbara
not only to improve the texture and color, but also to
Hvidt and Tine Holt Møller. Their first women’s collection is called LOVE IS,
ensure that your lips become softer and even more kissable.
which combines warm autumn thoughts and colors with fairy tale creatures
The promise is that it only takes seven days to make your
and magic mushrooms (somebody’s been enjoying their research hours).
lips even softer. And that from wearing a great color on your lips. The biggest add-on is that the lipstick sits even
Several talented artists have fashioned the wide collection, among them
better on smooth, beautiful lips.
Lisa Grue, Lissa Thimn and Phillip Zurmuhle.
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Deni m ass p irations Who doesn’t love the look of a perfect ass in a perfect pair of jeans? The new jeans collection by Jackpot guarantees that you’ll find the pants that make your behind look like two scoops of butter-pecan ice cream. Whether a slim fit, a curvy fit or a regular fit is what you demand for an attractive silhouette, you’ll find it in the collection. All the jeans are stretchy and comfortable while retaining a distinct design.
collections of the various fashion and accessory brands in ILLUM.
dansk daily FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3RD news
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Anne lo v es L ouisiana Louisiana, a modern art museum north of Copenhagen, offers an amazing getaway from life in the capital. Presented in a beautiful building surrounded by extraordinary scenery, Louisiana’s art exhibitions are definitely worth the trip up north. A new exhibition on eight prominent artists in 1920s and 30s Europe, Women of the Avant-Garde, opens February 14. www.louisiana.dk
Fas h ion T V Missed a show or just want to revisit? Copenhagen Fashion
Week
suggests
you
check
out
www.
tv.copenhagenfashionweek.com for all the runway shows, backstage clips and red carpet interviews of Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Press can download
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evoking GoosebumpS... Does spending an hour or so in King Minos’s mysterious labyrinth at Knossos sound appealing? Then we suggest you visit the historical and mythological exhibition by the oh-so-talented Danish artist Cathrine Raben Davidsen at GL STRAND. The exhibition, HOUSE OF THE AX, is a seductive, mental labyrinth of contemplation and reflection. It’s a maze in which you are likely to get caught in a web of personal experiences and mythological narratives. Cathrine Raben Davidsen spellbinds her viewer by cocooning them in her dramatic, evocative HOUSE OF THE AX. Check it out from February 4 through April 15, GL STRAND
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M A D S N Ø R GAARD Gar d ening in style Thursday was kicked off with a small and very exclusive breakfast show at Mads Nørgaard. ’The gardening collection’, as his autumn/winter 2012 collection is called, proved to be an interesting mix that borrows from different design directions. Present were the casual and playful feel of streetwear, a tougher punk attitude in black’n’white, and the elegance of British tailoring. Dresses with laser cut edges, quilted workwear pants, and feminine lurex striped knits were among the notable pieces. Dots, stripes and leopard print were all mixed in the fashion blender into a clever and relaxed fall collection.
C O MP E T I T I O N Win an awesome goodiebag from Max Factor containing a beauty kit of False Lash Effect
S ofia C o p pola d irects Marni cam p aign Sofia Coppola has designed a pretty nice bag for Louis Vuitton, but as most of us have noticed, she is also one of the most remarkable filmmakers of her generation, as recently proven by Somewhere, a beautiful satire on celebrity culture. So, when she said yes to directing the campaign film for the collaboration between H&M and Marni, we were filled with excitement. Watch out for a delicious fusion of art and fashion in the beginning of March.
Fusion mascara, Colour Elixir Lipstick, and an Ageless Elixir Foundation as well as many more fashionable prizes. Check it all out at www.danskdaily.dk!
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FEATURE
12
AN AFFAIR TO REMEMBER AN AFFAIR TO REMEMBER
words: Iben albinus sabroe
Design students at Central St. Martins found a film festival. Documentary makers celebrate Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld and Valentino. And like never before, Hollywood finds ways to channel the power of style icons. The love affair between film and fashion is hotter than ever. photo: WARNER
When costume designer Betsy Heinmann was styling Uma Thurman for her part as Mia Wallace in Pulp Fiction, she couldn’t find a pair of slim fitting black pants long enough for the actress, who is six feet, or 183 cm, tall. Instead, Heinmann cut off a couple of inches, creating that cropped, slick, sexy look Uma Thurman had when dancing with John Travolta. Thereby starting a fashion craze for the simple hip elegance she sported in Quentin Tarantino’s legendary movie. Today, movie makers and costume designers do not leave a new production’s fashion craze potential up to chance. In cinemas right now is My Week With Marilyn, an adaption of Colin Clark’s memoirs about a week he – a 23 year old director’s assistant – spent with Marilyn Monroe during the shooting of The Prince and the Showgirl in England. Monroe is a powerful icon in her own right, but making sure the film gets every press mention possible, the studio behind the film issued a series of photographs, featuring Michelle Williams as Monroe. The images showed a lesser known version of Marilyn, imitating Eve Arnold’s shots of her reading classic literature when struggling to be taken seriously as an actress, studying method acting in New York. The film’s costume designer Jill Taylor explained to InStyle how Marilyn was actually the Calvin Klein girl before C.K. A look synonymous with simple elegance, based on Monroe’s love for sweaters, slacks, shirts and pencil skirts.
”Please don’t make me look like a joke!” were Marilyn Monroe’s last words in the last interview she ever gave, two days before she was found dead of an overdose of sleeping pills. My Week With Marilyn makes sure she doesn’t. Playing the fashion element is a smart move for a picture that wants to be taken seriously, by helping to overwrite the idea of Marilyn Monroe as the banal blond sex symbol.
Since then, Michael Antonioni’s Blow Up from 1966 became an ambassador for the Mary Quant look. John Travolta did a nice thing for white polyester in Saturday Night Fever in 1977. Diane Keaton revolutionized women’s fashion with her gender bender style in Annie Hall in 1979. The list is long and glamorous. As partners in the business of dream works, fashion and film suit
In a fast moving, globalized world where the competition between media platforms is constantly intensified, there is one key to success: attention. Sex and the City - and later Mad Men showed that fashion consciousness is a short cut to media platforms. Ask Manolo Blahnik. Fashion and film again proved a strong alliance with The Devil Wears Prada, making a star of Anna Wintour, the chief editor of Vogue, both parodied and celebrated by the film. A documentary followed on her work for Vogue, The September Issue, and it has not been the only fashion doc to see the light. Karl Lagerfeld, Valentino and YSL have all been portrayed by hip film makers. But cinema and TV’s love for fashion is not unrequited. Students at the prestigious design school Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design have founded a film festival, Mad Men has inspired Michael Kors, Prada, Louis Vuitton and many others, and just the other day Karl Lagerfeld presented Chanel couture on an air plane, hardly unaware of the latest fashion oriented TV show Pan Am, which promotes a dreamy pastel colored 1960s look. If you want to know the next top trend, just check out your neighborhood, because it will be coming soon to a cinema near you. Films increasingly dictate fashion vogues. Believe this, and you might as well start looking for something Charleston chic. Madonna’s portrayal of Wallis Simpson in W.E. travels back to the roaring 1920s, and a new adaptation of The Great Gatsby will be out in December with Leonardo Dicaprio as Gatsby and Carey Mulligan as Daisy wearing those glamorous flapper frocks. Rest assured, magazines will be waiting to spread the news. The affair between fashion and film has never been hotter. Or has it become a marriage of convenience? Who cares, we love it!
photo: WARNER
photo: scanbox
The relation between film and fashion is no new fling. When Audrey Hepburn enjoyed coffee and a croissant in front of the famous jewelry store in 1961’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s wearing Givenchy, it not only reinforced the fashion phenomenon of Chanel’s ’little black dress’. It has also been established as the very moment fashion and film figured out that they could make money together.
each other, and have done so for many years. It was in fact TV shows that, more recently, made the industry realize how much power just a little more fashion sense could add to cinema. In the 1990s, Friends introduced an ensemble of characters who received love and adoration from a young generation, and if Jennifer Aniston’s Rachel Green wore an Alberta Ferretti chiffon top, it was likely to be sold in stores soon after the broadcast. The real game changer, however, was Sex and the City. Few women were featured in so many magazines as SJP / Carrie Bradshaw. And Hollywood paid attention.
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shows
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HENRIK VIBSKOV
HENRIK VIBSKOV
Play that funky music
words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Henrik Vibskov’s shows are always an adventure, and the presentation of the label’s autumn/winter 2012 collection on Tuesday night was no exception. There was a classic Vibskov vibe and setting, the runway turned into a piece of installation art that transformed the models’ footsteps into sounds as they stepped on tangents linked to big drums. The collection continued the Vibskov heritage, playing with shapes and silhouettes. There were slouchy shoulders and dropped crotches. Intriguing prints, lots of checks, bright orange and splashes of other sharp colors, and of course quirky fits and chunky knits. The collection presented lots of exciting outerwear, some easy to wear, other pieces more complicated and imaginative. And of course there were all the small the details that Vibskov is a master of, like the men’s jackets with a built-in backpack, and a dress with drums that reflected the show’s setting. It was, overall, a great collection in which Vibskov showed how to balance a solid ready-to-wear collection without compromising the label’s creative expression.
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BAUM UND PFERD GARTEN Baum und Pferdgarten Colored mods
words: Lotte Freddie photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Baum und Pferdgarten alias Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave are inspired by the mod subculture, beginning in the late 1950s and going into the 60s, for their fall/winter collection 2012. That means beautifully cut short coats, box jackets or blazers worn with short, gathered skirts, or slim, cropped trousers. The clean, easy lines work very well in a girlish/ grown up, sensual feminine way, as well as in the “less is more” shirt dresses and blouses that have already made a sure statement as a trend for the autumn. So has the cardigan, which is all over the place, here in a light wool version of pale grey striped with navy. As a nod to the ‘50s, B&P, who always have been strong on prints, let Vespa scooters drive across green or dusty rose silk, while palm trees grew in blue on black and leopard roared as a smashing coat with black leather sleeves. Another Baum und Pferdgarten specialty is unusual color combinations, such as a gunpowder blue coat over a champagne blouse and turquoise pants or turquoise matched with navy. And everything got a sexy kick from the wine socks we are bound to wear when we step out in our black stiletto pumps.
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CPH VISION TERMINAL-2
CPH Vision/Terminal-2
Brigitte Bardot meets New York’s homeless words: Kristine Kaalund photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Yesterday, CPH Vision / Terminal-2 held an entertaining show at the fashion
The second part of the show was styled by the talented and always humor-
fair of the same name. A horde of fashionistas and celebs, including the
ous Simon Rasmussen. After artificial snow had been spread all over the
Minister of Culture, had taken time out of their tight schedules to see the
floor, the models entered seated in a dark red chesterfield couch with big
extensive trend show, divided in two and styled by Christian Schleisner from
fur hats, ski goggles and down jackets with fur hoods, creating an Aspen ski
Unique Look and Simon Rasmussen.
resort atmosphere. Mink coats and moon boots in patent leather were all over the place. Guys were styled with cowboy hats and dandy scarfs, while
The first part of the show, styled by Christian Schleisner, took a feminine
the girls had sultry looks with big hair in a 60s style, as seen on Brigitte Bar-
approach with references to ladies of the 1960s. Models were styled with
dot. The clothes were accessorized with big gold necklaces, which suited the
big curly hair and light dresses in bright colors with a marked waistline. Un-
old school music perfectly.
der the headings ‘Nordic Fairytales’, ‘Bright Day’ and ‘Modern Nature,’ the models wore white lace combined with fur waistcoats and jackets. The look
Afterwards the look took a turn up north to ‘Norge’. Knits and scarfs in pat-
was soft and casual with clothes by Benedikte Utzon, Rosemunde, Soaked
terns with splashes of bright colors were accessorized with hats placed on
In Luxury and Edith & Ella, to mention a few. A lot of knits were shown with
the back of the head in a fresh, boyish way. The Scandinavian look was fol-
lace and silky garments, styled with big silver cuffs on the models’ wrists.
lowed by a ‘New York’ style, inspired by homeless people with blankets, big fur coats, pilot jackets and a layered look gathered with duct tape in one big
A clean look with straight lines entitled ‘Minimal Lux’ came next, sporting
mess. The girls sported punk looks with orange hair and heavy eye makeup.
turtlenecks underneath and featuring lots of details like leo-prints, check-
The show ended, appropriately, with a big snowball fight.
ered patterns and knitted ponchos. The girls wore big sculptural headpieces, which contrasted well with the simple style of the dresses.
A great show with cool and fun styling. Props to that!
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VERONICA B. VALLENES VERONICA B. VALLENES
Feminine edge
words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Yesterday, the Norwegian designer Veronica B Vallenes, who earlier has won the Max Factor New Talent award, presented her autumn/winter 2012 collection at the exclusive hotel Nimb in the heart of Copenhagen. I t wa s a b e a u t i f u l a n d c o h e re nt collection, but also safe, playing on the strengths of Veronica B. Vallenes’s design talent, where draping and material choice play a central part. The collection was inspired by the harmony between sharp tailoring and long silhouettes and contained a balance of both vintage and modern expression. The silhouettes were organic, the materials soft and flattering, and the color palette muted, mostly in black, white, grey and beige. There were beautiful black coats, sophisticated capes and femininely draped dresses, from easy shifts to loose and floaty. A pair of silky pants, loose but slim, played a key role in the collection. Another favorite was a pair of black leather pants with a dropped crotch. The collection left a feeling of cool, laid back elegance with a feminine edge.
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dansk daily FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3RD shows
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STINE GOYA STINE GOYA
The safe seduction
words: Stinne Jensen photo: COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
It was a downplayed, darker version of Stine Goya that hit the black runway yesterday afternoon. Emerging through a giant golden apple, the models, with pretty drops of gold on their cheeks, sported black, grey and earth colored styles with classic Goya detailing. But something was not quite as usual. Only the familiar peachy pastel lit up the dark color scheme, just as prints were kept to a minimal (offering checks and a blurry, pretty multicolor garden motif), making the overall feel less happy and playful than in previous collections. Nevertheless, it was all very Goya – with waistline ruffles, soft knits, and silk pants – and everything oozed of her signature sophistication and elegance. Fit for the confident woman who doesn’t need to show of her body to feel and look sexy. All the same, seduction was stated as the inspiration for the AW12 collection and evident in the snakelike black and gold embroidery across the chest, hips and legs. The silhouette was loose, covering up the body and leaving a lot to the imagination, yet never boring, as the silky fabrics always flatter the body. Worth mentioning are also the collection’s many different jackets; the leather bomber with fur trim and the short, slim biker jacket are predicted as season must-haves. Stine Goya showcased a safe collection with plenty of styles for her loyal followers (and all fans of wearable coolness), and hopefully she’ll be seduced by the cheerful pastels she does so well for her upcoming spring show.
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LINE HAHN
TEKO
Graduate grace
TEKO
words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
ANNE KOLD
Design graduate shows are always a great place to see young talents and get an indication of the direction Danish fashion might be heading over the next decade, as the talents evolve from graduates to designers. Yesterday, ten design students from TEKO showed their graduate collections at City Hall, with an inspiring array of visions and a lot of different takes on the future of Danish Fashion. Despite this variation, a common denominator in the designs could be found in a focus on strong women and softer men.
RIKKE MARIANNE JENSEN
Among the favorites was Line Hahn’s geometric approach to design that played with structured and sharply shaped silhouettes. Anne Kold leaned towards a minimalistic take on fashion, clean and simple with interesting details. Rikke Marianne Jensen presented a vision of menswear that at first looked simple and straight-forward, but upon closer inspection showed ingenuity in material choices and details.
MUNTHE PLUS SIMONSEN MUNTHE PLUS SIMONSEN
Luxury boho woman words: Lotte Freddie photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Naja Munthe stays true to her boho-hippie Munthe plus Simonsen woman, one that definitely appreciates luxury. Young and confident, she strides through the streets of New York, Naples or New Orleans, a laid-back urban cowboy in short biker leather jackets with lots of details, leather jeans, short, tight leather skirts with stitching and zips, and safari shirts. She tops it with slouchy coats, a Tibetan lamb jacket striped in three shades, with scrumptious must-have knit jackets or with sleeveless navy knits splattered lightly with gold. For evening she shines in dresses or tops in deep navy chiffon woven with gold or silver threads, or she glimmers in large matte silver sequins. The navy and light caramel are the only colors in a non-color collection – hit pieces marched into town on short fringed boots.
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Taber nacle Twins TABERNACLE TWINS
Kaleidoscope of colors words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Winter is anything but cold and gloomy for Vibe Lundemark, the designer behind Tabernacle Twins. For her autumn/winter 2012 show at The Royal Academy of Music, she literally used a kaleidoscope of colors, some in graphic prints, others like watercolors in bright Caribbean hues on soft jumpsuits and fluid pants. T h e va r i e t y o f h u e s wa s d i s p l aye d o n u n c o nve nt i o n a l silhouettes, pairing the soft brights and whimsical b/w comic strip-like prints in pants with chunky wool sweaters. Known for her artsy approach to fashion, the designer showed some large Asia-inspired graphic prints on kimono-style jackets and coats that stood out from the rest of the collection. It is evident that Lundemark is from the same generation as Stine Goya and Trine Wackerhausen, favoring the loosely structured silhouette and the inevitable short boxy jacket with lapels, just like her peers.
JEAN// PHILLIP
JEAN//PHILlIP Melancholy warriors
words: Kristine Kaalund photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Jean//phillip sported a strong and powerful A/W collection this season. The expression was dark and cool, with sharp slim silhou ettes combined with voluminous capes topped with a great sense of underplayed details. The fabrics were heavy and raw with a few deviations in cotton. Many of the styles were ornamented with frayed edges and a raw finish. Worth mentioning was a stunning coat in washed lamb, a material also seen on a bag. Every piece on the runway was designed with great details like asymmetric cuts, zippers and leather applications on the trousers. The range of colors spanned melancholy from black and grey to a dusty light blue. A samurai inspiration was evident in draped, layered garments, some layers torn apart with raw edges as if a warrior had just returned from combat. Designer Jean Phillip designed a strong, powerful and masculine look. All in all a great collection that underlines how the Jean//phillip label is a strong card for Danish men’s fashion.
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anniversary issue out now
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BRUUNS BAZAAR
BRUUNS BAZAAR
NEW CENTURY MODERN
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
The DNA of Danish fashion has often been discussed, bringing up the question of why clothes shouldn’t have the same clean aesthetic as the furniture of our worldrenowned mid-century architects. The debate is over and the answer is: Yes it can. Just look at Bruuns Bazaar. Within less than a year, new creative director Rebekka Bay has changed the look and form into that coveted modernist silhouette. Drawing upon inspiration from the 60s, but clearly with a current edge, Bruuns Bazaar has interpreted the desire for simple, timeless clothes with a collection they rightfully call contemporary, edited and precise. Think soft turtlenecks and sweatshirts in spongy scuba-like fabrics with figure-flattering pencil-skirts touching the knee, worn with burgundy or greige stilettos, shift-dresses with minute details like side pockets and inserts, worn alone or over cropped, slim pants, fitted blazer jackets and soft white blouses. The most beautiful piece in the show was an A-line collarless dress with modern appliques in black, burgundy and a powdery coral. The men’s collection had been equally edited, resulting in even more minimalist suits and shirts in dark and subdued colors. Both lines were done in the finest materials modern technology can produce, making the fabrics the star of the collection.
dansk daily FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3RD
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ANNE SOFIE MADSEN ANNE SOFIE MADSEN
Inuit intuition
words: Stinne Jensen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
It is no secret that Anne Sofie Madsen works well with strong inspiration, and her A/W ‘12 collection clearly bears the mark of her latest muse – the myth of the vindictive half-skeleton, half-human Inuit goddess of the underworld – Sedna. Madsen herself describes the collection as “the expression of a tupilak coming to life in a novel of late 19th century horror literature”, and both Inuit-fashion and classic menswear references were evident. Together, they worked surprisingly well. Trademark Madsen adornments like chain mail made of bone, rope and leather straps were worn over dresses, while knits and jackets gave the collection a strong native spirit and elevated the plainer shirts, men’s pants and sweatshirts. Colors were kept to black, bone and brown, with a ray of icy blue. A couple of silk styles showing beautiful detailed prints of polar bears and mystical faces, and skirts of lace, sequins, straps and frills, were among the collection’s finest. More downplayed pieces (for the not-so-brave among us) offered soft, cozy knits with bleak appliqué faces, slim dresses in acid dip-dye and black/white patterns. Anne Sofie Madsen knows how to turn her inspiration into cool and artistic clothing – this time with a more commercial outcome. Not a bad idea.
2nd to 4th of February 2012 2Lovetonycohen - 2ND DAY -2or+byYat - 5 PRE VIEW - 7 Rockers - A QUESTION OF - A.O. - A.T.P - Adidas SLVR Aeronautica Militaire - Alberto Fasciani - Aleksandr Manamïs ALIFE. - Alix De Moussac - Ally Cappelino - Ambre Babzoe American Vintage - Amor Lux - Andersen & Lauth - Anna Holtblad - Anne von Wowern - Anti-flirt - ANTIK BATIK - April77 Asger Juel Larsen - Artisan Deluxe - Astrid Andersen - Asui Agency - Asui Wieben Smykker - AVIA of Scandinavia - Avelon BACK - BARBARA I GONGINI - Barund CPH - Baum und Pferdgarten - BB Dakota - BECKSÖNDERGAARD - Bel Air - Bella Jones - Bernstock Speirs - Best Behavior - Billy and I - Birgitte Bonnerup - Birna -BITTE KAI RAND - bjørg jewellery - Black Lily Black Denim - BLAKE Copenhagen - Blue Blood - Bonsui - Brand Unit - Bread & Boxers - Brixtol - Bronte - Bruuns Bazaar - bSTORE By Malene Birger - By Zoe - BZR - BØLGER - California Sports - Camilla norrback - Camilla Skovgaard - CAMO - Campomaggi Carin Wester - Cipher - Cirque Deluxe - CLARISSA LABIN - Closed - Club Des Sport - Coats Factory by Plesner Codello Cornelia Webb - CPH FASHIONPOOL - Custommade - d.co Scandinavia - DAD - Dagmar - DANSK - Dante6 DAVID ANDERSEN DENMARK - Day Birger et Mikkelsen - Decandent - Delicious Freaks -Denim Demon- Department 5 Designers Remix - Diana Orving - DNA - Dmajuscule/ - Dont-Shoot-The-Messengers - DoubleYou Perfume Dress Gallery - DYRBERG/KERN - EDWIN - Eleven Paris - Elise Gug - Epice - EUROPEAN CULTURE - Equipment - F09 FARAH Fidelity by Gerald & Stewart - V AVE SHOE REPAIR - Fine Collection - Fnubbu - Folk - Fred Perry - Freddy The Club - Frost Birgens Copenhagen Fuga - Furansu - GAIA - GARBSTORE - Gardenia shoe biz - Genius Copenhagen - Gestuz - Graumann - Grenson Guðrun & Guðrun - Guess By Marciano -Haaning and Htoon - Hammerthor - Heartmade - Henrik Vibskov - High - Hope Hoss Honky Dory - House of the gods - Hubert - Human Scales - Humanoid - Hövding - Iben Høj - ID Hats - Ida Sjöstedt Isée by fleur tang - Ivan Grundahl - J Brand - J Dauphain - J. Lindeberg - James Perse - Jane Kønig - Jean//phillip - John Smedley Juelsbo x Co - Julian Red - Julian Julian Julian - Junk de luxe - KAMI ORGANIC - Karen By Simonsen - Karstoft Vestergaard Kevin Azzopardi - KLAY Koah Kron by KRONKRON - Ksubi - Kuro - Lagom - Lala Berlin - Lee Jeans - Le Sentier Libertine-Libertine - Linda Farrow - Line&Jo - Lipsy - Lob Agency - LOFT Design By - Lolly´s Laundry - Lounelle - Love Fashion Lumi & Mhann Lummer Brands Lyle & Scott - Madame PomPom - Mads Nørgaard - Copenhagen - Maison Scotch -Majestic Margit Brandt - Maria Lucia Hohan - Marimekko - Mark McNairy New Amsterdam - Martinica Belts - MAXJENNY Merz B Schwanen Scandinavia - Mes Demoiselle - MET in jeans - Mexicana - MIH JEANS - Minimarket - Miss Bibi Monday March Monocrom Mouli - Mos Mosh- Moshi Moshi Mind -Munderingskompagniet -Muubaa - Månestråle / Simple Naked & Famous Denim - Naja Lauf - Neuw - New Balance - Noi Tre Moda - Noir -Noodles Shoes Nordahn Agentur - Norbeto Costa, Lda. - Nordic Fashion - Norse Projects - Norwegian Rain -Not Shy -Nué Notes Obey - Odd Molly - Odeur - One Teaspoon - Opening Ceremony Footwear - Original Penguin - Orion London Parkhurst and Amber - Paul Rose Products - Pendleton - Penfield - Peter Jensen - Petit Bateau - PF Flyers - Please Pointer Footwear - Pomandére - Pop - Post Card - POST FIRE DEW - Pour Pretty Ballerinas - Prettey green - Prim I am Puma Blackstation - Punk Royal - QWSTION - R/H - R95th - Rabens Saloner - RASCALS - Red Collar Project - Red Label Red Wing Shoes - Rika -Roba accessories - Roeckl - Rokin Footwear - Royal Republiq - Rules By Mary -Rützou - SACK‘s Samsøe & Samsøe - SAND - SANDQVIST - Scandinavian Jeans Company - Schiesser Revival - See by Chloe - Seil Marschall Semi Couture - Sessún - Shamballa Jewels - Shoo - Sign - Sita Murt - Sjöklint Ageturer AB - Soft Gallery - Sophia Costas - Soulland SPALWART -Stahl Fashion - Stella Nova - Stetson - Steven Alan - Stine Goya - Stine Ladefoged - Stitch's - Storm & Marie STRENESSE - Surface To Air - Svensson - Swear London - Swedish Hasbeens -SZIGGY - Tabernacle Twins - THE AWAKENING THE BLACK LINE BY BARBARA I GONGINI - Friis & Company - The Furies - The Grocery - The Last Conspiracy -The Little Showroom The Local Firm - The Market Agency - The Wardrobe - Tiger of Sweden - Toms Shoes -Tony Cohen - Transit Par-Such Trend House Group-Triwa -Twenty8Twenty -Twin-Set -uncommon creatures-Uniforms for the Dedicated - UNIVERSAL WORKS Urbahia - Urban Expressions - Utzon - Vadum - Valentine Gauthier - Velour - Venus de Milo- Veronica B. Vallenes - Vibe Harsløf - Vintage Shades -Wackerhaus - Wester -Whiite - Won Hundred - Woolrich and Wolsey - YMC - Young Skilled AB - Yvonne Koné - Z by Zac Posen
Free entrance with online registration before 31. December www.gallery.dk
dansk daily FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3RD shows
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DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN Power tribes in daylight
words: Rikke Dyrholm photo: COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
Yesterday, Day Birger et Mikkelsen established once again why the brand is a reliable provider of contemporary trends that are at once interesting and wearable. It presented a solid and coherent collection that celebrates powerful women in a true tribal interpretation. This out-of-Africa impression was established as the models strolled down showing features that applauded glamazons in a modern tribal fashion. The collection sported classics like slim fit pants, short jackets, light short dresses and airy sleeveless tops, held in a traditional black and grey scale mixed with burned colors, interrupted by powerful and loud red and pink hues. Details like pleats, tulip-shaped skirts and sharp shoulders added edge and volume to the collection. Materials such as woven gypsy-inspired rugs, fur, and leather contrasted with light transparent fabrics to demonstrate a balance between femininity and more distinctive expressions, whereas braised belts slouching on hips and conspicuous big bangles and chokers underscored the tribal inspiration in a freshly updated version. Great prints, overall balanced cohesion, and good fit proved that experience makes a difference in fashion. Day Birger et Mikkelsen is one of Denmark’s great brands, and the praise following the show proved they are still going strong.
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DESIGNERS REMIX DESIGNERS REMIX Future fantastic
words: Stinne Jensen photo: COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
Yesterday, in a 1939 airport terminal that’s used exclusively by the Danish Royal family, Charlotte Eskildsen showc a s e d a s o m e w h at m o re f u t u r i st i c Re m i x u n i ve r s e . Japan continues to inspire the designer, but gone was the long fascination with old origami techniques, replaced by the fast forward high tech inspiration of Tokyo City. The overall collection was very Designers Remix. It featured an overwhelming amount of cool tuxedo pants and clever little black dresses – all with stylish and elegant trim detailing such as zippers, leather trim, and white pocket lining. But elements of sportswear – sweatshirts, neoprene – were among the standouts, reminiscent of early Balenciaga. Silhouettes both body-clinging and cocoon-like round were to be seen. Most of the styles were kept in black and white with soft pastel splashes of lavender, mint and an occasional deep burgundy. The many angora sweaters and floor length dresses looked extra lush up against slinky silk pants and tight wooly shorts (for winter…). Coats have always played a central part in the winter collections, this time offering everything from leather and fur, wool capes, boucle wrap-ups and warm wad styles. Eskildsen’s usual play with masculine vs. feminine keeps her clothes in a good balance, and never seems to disappoint on wearability. If you need a classy cocktail dress or cool work wear, you’ll find it here. It’s said that to predict the future you must know the past. The finale, which featured an extraordinary lineup of a signature outfits from the past ten years, was the perfect show ending.
dansk daily FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3RD look of the day
page 36
look of the day
by max factor words: Mikkel Hyldebrandt photo: SIMON B. MØRCH
Bohemian crossover DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN The Look A fusion of modern style, sensuality and Native American influences is evident in the A/W 2012 Day Birger et Mikkelsen collection, and is replicated in the makeup look. Soft colors surround the eyes and highlight the cheeks, and for a refined depth and intensity, the inner eye is shaded in greys. Even more intense are the eyebrows, strongly defined and echoing the Native American influences. It is an accomplished crossover of sensual Bohéme and subtle native influences that emanate true style.
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dansk daily FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3RD
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very important princesses
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Stine Goya front row words: magnus jorem photo: paw gissel
A choreographer’s eye is always critical.
Designer Stine Goya and model celebrating another triumph of fabric and fluidity.
Aggressively Italian Fabiana Fierotti and Russian Vogue’s spunky journalist Vitaly Kozak.
Didder Rønlund remembers way back to the days of Danish fashion before Goya.
Hobby photographers taking black and white pictures of the seating arrangements.
Pastel enthusiasts right before experiencing Goya’s dark turn.
Stine Goya front row Stine Goya’s Thursday afternoon runway show attracted A-listers, magazine writers, international fashionistas and a tanned circus clown in a furry getup.
Cecilie & Mie from ELLE are great believers in furocious fashion.
Rasmus and Jette of the widely celebrated Fashion Week Live service.
Henrik Vibskov plans to copy Goya’s signature pastel dresses next season.
Cover Magazine’s Emily & Mads Nørgaard’s Mads Nørgaard. Infernal’s stars at yet another fashion show. They’re on a roll, people. No. Just don’t.
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Mads Nørgaard breakfast show words: magnus jorem photo: paw gissel
Dansk Daily’s very own Sille Henning with designer Mads Nørgaard.
Alt for Damerne’s Mia reinvents herself with Mads Nørgaard every season.
Copenhagen’s getting competition from Duckville Fashion Week.
Destruction-chic anti-fashion revolutionary Ingrid of Anywho delivers the latest sartorial gossip to her girlfriends at Cover.
Bourgeois-bohemians thirsting for new takes on modern classics.
Mads Nørgaard breakfast show Copenhagen’s very own Mads Nørgaard opted for an exclusive breakfast showing of the AW ‘12 collection.
Photographer Annemie Dreves will break your nose with her huge photography equipment you male chauvinist pig.
Stylist Anette Hvidt joins Sille, designer Nørgaard’s better half, for an in-depth discussion on the direction of Nordic style.
Singer Marie Fisker and guitarist Rune Kjeldsen channel their personal experiences, dreams, and pain in their art. Mother Superior of the Cover family Malene Malling embracing one of her Malling girls.
Fashion pixies Anne and Katrine from the magazine IN were up early.
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Bruuns Bazaar front row words: magnus jorem photo: paw gissel
Bruuns Bazaar front row On Thursday night, Bruuns Bazaar, a Danish fashion staple, attracted its usual audience of fashion fans young and old.
Fashion Forum’s Naja has an eagle eye for detail and is ready for a critical evaluation! Too much fur or too much red lipstick? Impossible!
Signe space cadet.
Scoop-Bente’s husband has always dreamed of being labelled “the Karl Lagerfeld of Eastern Denmark.” The delectable Ivona Bruun and her saucy-delicious fashion friends.
Moonspoon window show words: magnus jorem photo: ecco
Moonspoon window show
Much like the harlots of Amsterdam, Moonspoon Saloon opted for a sexually charged window sill-based exhibition of its A/W ‘12 collection, at Tekinoktay.
Moonspoon’s 2012 muse is clearly Barney the Dinosaur.
Copenhagen bad girl Katja Boom went all soft and cuddly with teddy bear-clad accomplice. This look will definitely be copied by the rest of the CFW show schedule next season.
Graceful like a phoenix, smooth like a piglet.
Moonspoon designer Sara Sachs, not to be confused with fashion journalist Sara Skarum. Or are they secretly the same person?
It is a Moonspoon tradition to mix all alcoholic beverages together for a killer potion.
dansk daily FRIDAY FEBRUARY 3RD
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show schedule / events
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show sChedule SHOW SCHEDULE friday 03.02.2012 BY INVITATION ONLY
10.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Cph V
EDITH & ELLA
19.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Cph V
SAND
15.00, Øksnehallen, Building 55, Halmtorvet 11, Cph V
DESIGNERS’ NEST 11.00, Terminal-2, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Cph SV
RESTERöDS
20.00, Tap 2, Pasteursvej 28, Cph V
BY MALENE BIRGER
16.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Alle 22, Frederiksberg
12.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Cph V
ANIV VON BORCHE
SAMUJI
21.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Cph V
SOULLAND 17.00, Nikolaj, Copenhagen Contemporary Art Center, Nikolaj Plads 10, Copenhagen K
GAIA
13.00, Bella Center, Trend Stage, Center Boulevard 5, Cph S
FQ1924
18.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Alle 22, Frederiksberg
14.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Cph V
VELOUR
GESTUZ
22.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Alle 22, Frederiksberg
BEATE GODAGER, HOT FRITURE & YASAMIN ZAFAR 23.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Alle 22, Frederiksberg
LAURA BARUëL & STINE RIIS
events EVENTS
THE OAT MEAL 10.00-11.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V & Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV At the entrance of CPH Vision & Terminal-2 Fair visitors only
BUBBLES AT MULBERRY, GUCCI AND BURBERRY 14.00-20.00, Lufthavnsboulevarden 6, Kastrup Copenhagen Airport, Gucci, Mulberry & Burberry Airport stores Open to the public
NORWEGIAN FASHION INSTITUTE 19.00-21.00, Amaliegade 39, Copenhagen K The Royal Norwegian Embassy By invitation only
SOUNDS OF TERMINAL-2 10.00-19.00, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV Terminal-2, Heineken Lounge Fair visitors only
RUBEN STORCK, DANISH RELEASE 14.00-15.00, Kødboderne 3, Copenhagen V KB3 By invitation only
HEINEKEN MEET & GREET 19.00-23.00, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV The Boiler By ticket only
SIMPLY CHOCOLATE 16.00-16.30, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V CPH Vision, Designers’ Nest Exhibition By invitation only
ITALIAN APERITIVO BAR 21.00-00.00, Havnegade 44, Copenhagen K Custom House Bar & Grill Open to the public
DESIGNERS’ NEST EXHIBITION 10.00-19.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V CPH Vision, Designers’ Nest Fair visitors only AMUST NAIL POLISH BAR 10.00-19.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V CPH Vision, Egekilde lounge Fair visitors only ARTREBELS PRESENT: GARDEN OF GOOD – LIVE SUSTAINABLE PRINTING AND SEWING STUDIO 10.00-19.00, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg Gallery HENRIK ADAMSEN / FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY 11.00-23.00, Havnegade 44, Copenhagen K Custom House Open to the public CANADA GOOSE A/W 12 EXCLUSIVE VIEW 12.30-14.00, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg Gallery, T135 Fair visitors only COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT PRESS CONFERENCE 13.00-14.00, Krystalgade 22, Copenhagen K Hotel St. Petri, Café Petri By invitation only
ABSOLUT VODKA, PETER JENSEN AND NORDIC MAN LAUNCH 17.00-19.00, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg Gallery Open to the public
CPH VISION PARTY 21.30-04.00, Pilestræde 12A, Copenhagen K The Lot By invitation only
HOTEL FOX & BORCHER PRESENT CHARITY BAR 17.00-20.00, Jarmers Plads 3,Copenhagen V Hotel Fox Open to the public
THE BVLGARI PARTY 22.00-05.00, Nørregade 41, Copenhagen K Zen Open to the public
EGEKILDE 5 O’CLOCK 17.00-19.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V CPH Vision, By the Designers’ Nest Exhibition 5pm-6pm & Egekilde Lounge 5pm-7pm Fair visitors only
SOULLAND AFTER PARTY 23.00-05.00, Store Strandstræde 14, Copenhagen K Simons By invitation only
HEINEKEN AFTER HOURS 18.00-19.00, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV Terminal-2, Heineken Lounge Fair visitors only
NAG PRESENTS: RICK OWENS, DAMIR DOMA & MA_ JULIUS PARTY 23.00-05.00, Frederiksholms Kanal 12, Copenhagen K National Museum By invitation only
SAVING THE WORLD IN STYLE see you in Copenhagen on May 3, 2012 for the world’s Most iMportant fashion event Copenhagen fashion suMMit | May 3 | 2012 the Copenhagen opera house | denMarK CopenhagenfashionsuMMit.CoM
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