AUTUMN WINTER 2012
dansk daily
proud sponSOr of
SATURDAY FEBRUARY 4TH
Reviews · Soulland By Malene Birger, Gaia
Reviews · Gestuz SAND, SAMUJI
Cover Photo BY MALENE BIRGER by Simon B. Mørch
Max Factor Look of the Day · SAND
Feature · Fashion equals contemporary art
A sharper, more seductive By Malene Birger
TREND · Nordic Melancholy
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EDITORIAL
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Fashionable blues editorial Evolution rather than revolution. That could be a way to sum up the overall impression of the collections launched in the past days at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Danish designers have employed the present recession to distill the DNA of their brands. And rumor has it, the result is remarkably beautiful. If present times call for reflection and moderation, rather than turning introvert, the creative forces of the Nordic fashion world are finding a way to continue exploring, all the while working within the extreme demands for sound and consistent sales in a market where buyers increasingly work on commission. In a fashion week cold as a Siberian labor camp, but with slightly better dressed attendees, the themes of
Northern melancholia reflected in many a collection seemed appropriate. Following a year in which Danish director Lars von Trier received international acclaim for his breathtaking, dystopic Melancholia, which was just voted the year’s best film by American critics, Danish cinema’s leading enfant terrible is not the only one to examine the beauty of having the blues. Of course there were colors: passionate burgundy, burned nuances, a splash of turquoise and the occasional orange. But the general feel of this fashion week was a fashionable Nordic blues, reinforced by numerous color schemes in black and grey. Bearing in mind the auto-ironic campaign for Swedish underwear brand Björn Borg, where good-looking people brood
about generally everything, this might be a Nordic trademark. Nevertheless, when it comes to this week’s autumn/winter collection, it’s nothing to be ashamed of. Wackerhaus’s show was a ravishing tribute to the Icelandic landscape. Stine Goya’s darker, tougher look displayed a seductive, grownup sensibility. Day Birger et Mikkelsen showed a stringent, more mature and titillating no-nonsense look. Rebekka Bay’s touch lends a sexy confidence to Bruuns Bazaar. And By Malene Birger’s luxurious collection offered focused, sharp tailoring. Gone are the days of sequins, fringes and floaty skirts, gone is the quirky girly attitude of Danish fashion, eclipsed by a still wearable, but confident and s e n s u o u s N o rd i c s e n s i b i l i t y. N i c e !
Iben Albinus Sabroe EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
CONTRIBUTORS PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Iben Albinus Sabroe CREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT COORDINATOR Rozanna Fritz PROJECT COORDINATOR Jacob Petersen ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo & Mikkel Møller · IRONFLAG SUBEDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson BEAUTY EDITOR Mikkel Hyldebrandt EDITORIAL ASSISITANT Rasmus Peter Sandberg Sloth WRITERS Elsebeth Mouritzen, Kristine Kaalund, Lotte Freddie, Rikke Dyrholm, Sille Henning, Fashionforum.dk PHOTOGRAPHERS Simon B. Mørch, Paw Gissel, Sacha Maric DISTRIBUTION Cath Møss, Julie Christine Kühne, Stina Ildor Jacobsgaard PRINT Berlingske Avistryk
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pilgrim.dk / find nearest retailer at pilgrim.dk/stores
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30 minutes in London London has a way of inspiring — and whether you’ve been eating fish’n’chips, shopping at the flower market or partying hard with Kate Moss, you never leave London without feeling boosted by all the impressions. The Pilgrim spring 2012 collection captures the magic of the British capital with jewelry inspired by flea markets and vintage jewelry selections – with a strong dichotomy of rawness and elegance. Just like the city of inspiration.
Cre a ti v e e d itor R oz a nn a l ov e s the ne w LG P ra d a ph on e
Gr een is t h e n e w black! Watch out for the new OPEL Ampera during
Trash chic
fashion week. This electric car is nominated for “Car of the Year 2012” and provides the official transportation during
The Danish design company VIPP, famed for their
Copenhagen Fashion Week. Drive in style
iconic waste bins, has teamed up with the French
while caring about the environment.
concept store Colette. A limited edition of trash cans
Go green! www.opel.dk
covered with illustrator Kevin Lyons’s small signature monsters in Colette’s trademark blue color is now words by fashion forum
for sale at colette.fr.
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Compete for the colors of fashion This Fashion Week, ILLUM invites everyone to join three competitions dedicated to let winners enjoy this season’s colors of fashion. Enjoy on print – the prize lets winners enjoy the 10-year anniversary issue of DANSK Magazine filled with inspirationally hued fashion. Enjoy on exhibition – the prize grants winners access to the artistic and chromatic fashion exhibition “10 years of DANSK – a decade of Danish fashion” at the Danish Design Center. Enjoy through shopping – the prize is gift certificates to many of the fashion and accessory brands in ILLUM, allowing winners to combine colors as they wish. For further information on how to compete for these fabulous prizes, go to illum.dk or visit ILLUM.
P R O DU C T O F T HE DA Y Incredible elixir
Be hot a s h e l l If we had our way, we’d be wearing polar-bear fur-covered boots on our feet in this Siberianwinter season – but would it be ethical? Well, instead we chose to wear the fashionably bold SOREL boots to keep us warm.
The best starting point for any makeup look is beautiful, flawless skin. If you’re one of the (very) few that are born with close-up-ready hi-definition skin, you don’t need to read any further. But if you require a little help out of a bottle to look your best, this product is for you. Because whether you rely on skincare or makeup to get your skin looking picture-perfect, you get a much desired 2-in-1 with the Ageless Elixir Foundation. The product fuses high quality color pigment
Wearing SOREL boots has become even more fashionable since the company joined forces with The Tannery of Boston and Cambridge. It’s not only the freezing staff of Dansk Daily who love the new SOREL boots, premium Parisian style boutique Colette does to – snap to that. We don’t mind looking like a group of polar bears when wearing the SOREL SENTRY boots – we know we’re hot as hell.
C P H V ISION goes green(er) It’s not just sustainable fashion that’s hot – so are sustainable fashion fairs. In an attempt to eliminate the use of resources and at the same time make registration more efficient, fashion fairs CPH Vision & Terminal-2 have decided to create a paper-free registration process. Preregistration has been available online for some time, but now, instead of presenting a print of your registration, you just have to scan your smartphone. Voila, no paper – smart indeed.
with a protective SPF 15 serum, which gives the skin a gorgeous here-and-now beauty effect, but also reacts with the skin to make it even prettier from within. And the best part? This isn’t some magic, imaginary concoction, but an elixir within your grasp. Max Factor Ageless Elixir foundation, DKK 129
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Ann e l o v e s ghd If you have somewhat unruly hair, there is nothing better than a STYLER to tame those golden locks. In my opinion, the best one on the market is made by ghd. I can highly recommend the ghd gold styler for a smooth ride. www.ghdhair.com/dk
Be stse l l e r be h in d Da nish co l l e ction for O l ym pics When the Olympics in London commence this summer, Danish athletes, trainers and other personnel will be clad by the two Bestseller-owned brands Jack & Jones and Vero Moda. Bestseller is the official partner of the Danish team, and has developed the collection with help from three athletes. Attending the Olympics involves dressing up for receptions and the opening ceremony march, and wearing leisure-wear and the so-called “Denmark Wear” – designed for receiving medals. For the first time, pieces will be available at Jack & Jones stores around the country.
CIFFKIDS expands its borders When this season’s CIFFKIDS opens, buyers and press will get a bigger area to enjoy a kidswear-frenzy. CIFFKIDS has expanded its area by 1000 m2 from the August 2011 fair. “We’re well on our way to becoming the biggest children’s fashion fair in Northern Europe, and we are happy to have expanded our area, getting even more space to show
Nois e PR — si x ye a rs of succe ss This year, the Danish PR and strategy agency Noise PR celebrates its six-year birthday, and we’d like to congratulate them on their great accomplishments. Whether launching Tom Ford eyewear in Denmark, being DANSK Fashion Awards’ PR partner, or relaunching the German mega brand Strenesse, the Noise PR crew always deliver.
WE ARE CURRENTLY MAKING NOIS
products to buyers and exhibitors,” says Fashion & Design
APAIR — ANNE Director Kristian W. Andersen. A lot of smaller brands and
VEST — CARLSBERG — CHARLOTTE SPARRE — COLORFUL LICENC DAGMAR — DIMENSIONE DANZA — DK COMPANY — ELLE MACPHERSON — EMU AU KARTELL — LAURENCE AIRLINE — MBT — MOROCCANOIL — ROSEMUNDE — SELECTE
an influx of bigger brands (Name It, Pepe Jeans, Lee Cooper) have secured the expansion
C e l e brity A LEADING FASHION & LIFESTYLE COMMUNICA sportsw e a r NOISEPR.DK Known for his raw, black look, Danish designer and celebrity fave David Andersen has decided to expand his brand with a sportswear collection, offering an ample number of styles perfect for a run around Copenhagen’s pittoresque lakes.
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Snow White claims her kingdom Stasia’s A/W 2012 collection of cocktail dresses proposed a different, powerful view that conjured the image of Snow White. Presenting a collection of cocktail- and evening-wear for nobility and glitterati, the items each submitted a delicate fairy tale feel. Soft materials and refined details dominated the collection, which featured long, elegant silk dresses and short detailed cocktail dresses with a romantic twist, both underscoring the innocence of the fairy tale princess theme. Delicate hues of white, oyster, icy blue and yellow mixed with heavier colors black, pink, curry and metallic to divide the collection’s focus in two, igniting the delicate theme with a powerful twist. Stasia’s tailoring is impressive and flattering for the female body.
A cl ub you’ d w a nn a j oin The energetic fashion label Club Monaco is set to open a store in ILLUM next month. With a minimalist sentiment evoked in natural textures that is contrasted by playful patterns, Club Monaco addresses the fashion cravings of young people with an appetite for renewed classics. Having worked with world-renowned photographers like Demarchelier, Lindbergh and Testino, the company’s entrance on the Copenhagen stage is bound to prove exciting.
Swe e ts for m y sweets Denmark’s most fashionable confectioner La Glace celebrated DANSK Magazine’s 10th anniversary with the cake of all cakes, an absolutely divine piece of pastry art. Classy!
C O MP ET I T I O N Win an awesome goodiebag from Max Factor containing a beauty kit of False Lash Effect Fusion mascara, Colour Elixir Lipstick, and an Ageless Elixir Foundation as well as many more fashionable prizes. Check it all out at www.danskdaily.dk!
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FEATURE
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Fashion – a contemporary art Fashion – a contemporary art
words: Iben albinus sabroe
Thank designers such as Alexander McQueen, fashion photographers like Miles Aldridge and film makers á la Christopher Bro for fusing fashion with art. A new book establishes what many of us already knew. That you don’t need an excuse to take fashion seriously. You cannot talk about fashion without needing to defend yourself, wrote fashion expert Elizabeth Wilson in her famous book Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. Almost 20 years later, this has finally changed. A brand new, big and beautiful book treats fashion like art and makes no excuses for it. The Danish title of Klædt på til skindet plays upon an idiom that doesn’t translate, it means something like Dressing up, but its message is universal and easily understood – that fashion deserves the respect that architecture and furniture design have long enjoyed. Therefore, a group of Danish design scholars and academics have written a smart and substantial book on the culture and aesthetics of fashion, from French King Louis XIV to today’s ever-changing and sometimes strangely enigmatic trends, such as homeless chic, that culminated when a Chinese man living on the street was celebrated widely on the Internet for his eclectic style and compared to Brad Pitt. forlaget vandkunsten
Not that a book on fashion is unusual, but this publication is much more than a gorgeous coffee table book. It is a statement that fashion is no longer an estranged cousin to the finer arts.
forlaget vandkunsten
But fashion and art have merged for many years, you might object. And the recent breathtaking exhibition of Japanese Yohji Yamamoto’s designs at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London’s South Kensington, showing how the the Japanese designer slash artist has been experimenting with body forms and gender bending for decades, is an example of this. Still, many factors contribute to a more recent wider acceptance of fashion as contemporary art. Whereas fashion in films for many years would limit itself to the credit of a costume designer, a
Speaking of supermodels, another contributing factor to the trend has been the newer generation of models and style icons, who are less commercially orientated than the supermodels of the ‘90s. When Cindy Crawford made Fair Game, Renée Toft Simonsen starred in the Italian horror flick Nothing Underneath, and Naomi Campbell appeared in a bunch of films no one remembers, a new sub-genre was born: supermodel-turned-actress movies. The label wasn’t meant as a compliment. These days, super hip models like Lily Cole star in art house wizard Terry Gilliam’s The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassus, and French beauty Lea Seydoux shows acting talents in Mission: Impossible Ghost Protocol and Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris. At the same time, fashion photography is more acknowledged as an art form. Legendary American filmmaker David Lynch might have had in mind cinema’s historical struggle to be accepted as art when he celebrated fashion photographer Miles Aldridge’s artistic surrealist pictures a couple of years ago. All the world’s a stage, wrote William Shakespeare, and the runway features greater similarities to performance theater than it’s often given credit for. That is, if you consult the aforementioned new Danish book on the subject of fashion as contemporary art. The book dedicates an entire chapter to fashion shows that resemble performance art. Turkish born Husseyn Chalayan’s sci fiinspired artistic designs, installations and video art works, both elegant and thought-provoking, belong to the world’s most in-demand art today, as an exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in Istanbul proved back in the fall of 2010. Among its highlights was a video of a model dressing in a portable coffee table as a comment on the world’s fugitives.
Meanwhile, British fashion’s enfant terrible Alexander McQueen is becoming still more celebrated for his groundbreaking art/fashion. In a show back in 2000, he daringly featured fetish artist Michelle Olley naked, wearing a pig’s mask. And she does not have the body of a size zero model. Other designers who notably fuse art and fashion today are Viktor & Rolf, John Galliano, Gareth Puig, Martin Margiela and in Denmark’s Henrik Vibskov. The likes of the once surrealist inspired Elsa Schiaparelli, punk diva Vivienne Westwood and gender bender Yohji Yamamoto might have proven long ago that the bond between fashion and art is a strong one. Today there is no distinction left — the hippest art forms attract the talents. Where might that lead?
forlaget vandkunsten
For a while, though, it was uphill. As much as the ultimate fashion-oriented TV show Sex and the City adored and did for fashion, having a worldwide successful TV show advocating designer brands in a time of global growth meant fashion became synonymous with status symbols, a little like in the 1980s. Luckily, Sex and the City also promoted style as personal storytelling, which in general made more and more women fashion conscious at the same time as the metrosexual man was born. So the influences of fashion shifted from an elite of stylists and fashionistas – also by means of all the new media platforms – and knowing names like Dior’s Hedi Slimane and Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquiére became part of a cultivated man or woman’s conversational repertoire.
new breed of hip independent directors are drawing inspiration from the aesthetics of fashion photography. Danish Christopher Boe, who won the prestigious Camera D’or in Cannes for his stylish film debut Reconstruction, was so inspired by melancholy motives of supermodel Helena Christensen for his philosophical love story Allegro that he cast her as the hero’s love interest.
WE ARE CURRENTLY MAKING NOISE FOR APAIR — ANNE VEST — CARLSBERG — CHARLOTTE SPARRE — COLORFUL LICENCES — CPH FASHION POOL — DANSK FASHION AWARDS DAGMAR — DIMENSIONE DANZA — DK COMPANY — ELLE MACPHERSON — EMU AUSTRALIA — FRIIS LABEL FACTORY — HØGH INTERIØR KARTELL — LAURENCE AIRLINE — MBT — MOROCCANOIL — ROSEMUNDE — SELECTED BRANDS — SPANX — STRENESSE — V AVE SHOE REPAIR A LEADING FASHION & LIFESTYLE COMMUNICATION AGENCY
NOISEPR.DK
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AmA gert orv 10 · 1160 K øb en h Av n K · tel ef on 33 14 19 41 · w w w. i l l u m s bo l i g hu s . d K mAndAg – torsdAg 10 – 18 · fredAg 10 – 19 · lørdAg 10 – 18
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GESTUZ GESTUZ
Grunge Barbie
words: Rikke Dyrholm photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Yesterday, the Danish designer duo Gestuz presented their A/W 2012 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week, their first time. In the City Hall setting, two female rocksingers, accompanied by a live band, took the stage and set the mood for this debut event. The models entered one by one in a grunge Barbie style, wearing heavy boots, skirts in diverse lengths, mini dresses and tight jackets – all in leather. Loose cowboyinspired shirts, sleeveless tops, armor-inspired sequin dresses and woolen garment complemented the leather focus and eased the eye. Burnout effects and glittering glazer items twisted the casual grunge theme and added a touch of glamour. A color focus in the black and grey hues, disturbed by army green and burned orange-red, underscored the youthful Grunge Barbie theme. Recurring details were laces criss-crossing over leather items, enriching the total expression. The collection seemed balanced in style and expression, featuring a mix of softness and hardness in texture and tailoring. Gestuz is known for their youthful focus and wearable daily-wear designs, which easily came across on a runway.
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SOUL LAND SOULLAND
Imperial reach
words: Kristine Kaalund photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Soulland by designer Silas Adler has been one of the darlings on the Danish fashion scene over the past years. The fundamental inspiration for his new collection, called Imperial and continuing his success, was the contradictions of Russian culture and society. The look of the collection was young and sporty with a classy menswear feeling. This was exemplified in a sweatshirt made with inspiration from Russian artist Kazimir Malevich with a circle print on the front, styled with a button-up white shirt. Soulland sported baseball jackets in several colors, one with leather sleeves and some embellished with Russian prison tattoo patches, which bore witness to the successful collaboration Soulland has with House of Billiam. Besides the baseball jackets, preppy duffle coats were shown with cable knit-like applications and the always simple and minimalistic ¾-length trench coat with underplayed details – very becoming and cool. Some of the knits carried prints, while others were characterized by cable knit. Soulland showed both traditional cardigans and a more daring, longer version of the cardigan with a belt around the waist. The palette was held in grey, navy blue, beige and shades of green, broken only by a cobalt blue on a pair of shoes and a bright grassy green on a short classic men’s jacket. Trousers spanned from neat suit trousers with creases to canvas trousers with a white tie cord in the waist and an elastic band at the ankles, which over time have become a Soulland staple. Silas Adler identifies the style of a modern and experimenting man. He showed an impressing collection that will do well both on the Danish fashion scene and internationally — a great imperial work.
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179,-
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ANIV VON BORCHE
ANIV VON BORCHE
A dose of different
words: Lotte Freddie photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Fusing New York with Stockholm is the aim of Aniv von Borche when he designs his collections. His own history of being an over-the-top club kid in New York, to studying in glamorous Milan and now living in trendy, minimalist Stockholm reflects in his clothes. Like the almost all-black fall/winter 2012 “Black Frost”, where the different periods of his life result in a look where he tries to “capture everything that is cold and sinister yet enticing about the winter.” For men, he succeeds with mixing textures like black leather as sleeves or shoulders in cotton blouses and wool jackets. In wool trousers or in knit cardigan buttoned on the bias. For women, von Borche mixed leather with chiffon and velour sewn into unusual asymmetrical cuts like the sides or fronts of sensual dresses. In black, aubergine or deep bottle green. Absolutely sexy, really interesting and alluring.
FQ 1924
Men at work
FQ 1924
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Inspired by the many Danish men who braved the Atlantic Ocean to seek fortunes and happiness in the New World after WWI, successful retail company BTX is launching the brand FQ1924, the initials FQ standing for Frontiers Quebec. As a tribute to those influential years, when men’s clothes experienced a radical modernization into a more relaxed, youthful style, FQ1924 took us on a travel through time in its first collection presentation at Bella Center, the label’s home turf. It was grandpa-style the modern way. Preppy look met lumberjack inspiration with knitted jacquard waistcoats, shirts in denim and checkered cotton, comfortable sweaters and sweatshirts, parcas and pea coats in earthy tones and maritime hues, all pulled together with c a s u a l t ro u s e r s , fro m b lu e j e a n s to t w i ll s i n re fre s h i n g r u st a n d burgundy. Modernity was evident in the bold mix of a mustard jacket, pink shirt and coral pants, and a grey flannel three-piece suit split up and paired with jeans, very appropriate for the office these days, especially with the must-have this year, the self-tied bowtie in college-striped silk.
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D ES I GN E R S ’ NEST Designers’ Nest Leaving the nest
words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
It’s always interesting to see the Designers’ Nest show, as it presents a lot of different talents from the design schools in all the Nordic countries. At yesterday’s show, some designers were very modern and up-to-date, others inventive in their source of inspiration, and others still leaned towards a theatrical take on fashion. It was Her Royal Highness Crown Princess Mary who presented the prizes together with the founder of Designers’ Nest, Jan Busch Carlsen, and the jury counted designer Peter Jensen and Hilary Alexander, editor at The Daily Telegraph.
Both the first and second runners up were from the Aalto University of Art and Design in Finland. They showed utility wear in different varieties. Placing third, Timo Helin’s had a more commercial focus without being boring, whereas second place Patrik Prusak’s designs were more creative and less wearable.
LOUISE SIGVARDT
PATRIK PRUSAK
LOUISE SIGVARDT
LOUISE SIGVARDT
TIMO HELIN
The winner of the award this year was the Danish designer Louise Sigvardt from Kolding Design School. Her collection was very modern, simplistic yet with a lot of interesting details. She is definitely one to watch — rumor has it that creative director Rebekka Bay from Bruuns Bazaar has noticed her talent and hired the young designer to be part of her design team.
ten years of dansk
a decade of danish fashion EXHIBITION, 27 JANUARY - 4 MARCH 2012 DANISH DESIGN CENTRE, H. C. ANDERSENS BOULEVARD 27, COPENHAGEN
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ASGER JUEL LARSEN ASGER JUEL LARSEN
Hailing Soviet, praising manhood
words: Rikke Dyrholm photo: COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
Aspiring Danish designer Asger Juel Larsen’s debut show at Copenhagen Fashion Week unveiled a profound passion for the late Soviet era and its communist battleships. While a black and white movie of an old Soviet battle played in the background, masculine models strolled down the catwalk in the style of a true Muscovite army, wearing authentic Russian ushanka hats in fur, dressed to cope with a winter revolution in the USSR. The collection was well performed in style and tailoring, sporting long woolen coats, slim fit jeans, big knitted sweaters, and casual training suits, all in black and grey, interrupted by a loud, political red. Outstanding pieces like a fur jacket and a paisley inspired patterned suit provided an edge, while recurring zippers and downplayed asymmetry enriched the collection with a grungy fashion twist. Asger Juel Larsen’s collection presented a high level of tailoring and fitting, with a grand applause as the result. His purpose was crystal clear: to celebrate manhood and hail masculinity.
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SAMUJI SAMUJI
Minimalism meets folklore
words: Kristine Kaalund photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Samuji showcased a tight, minimalistic collection yesterday at the Royal Danish Academy of Music. The Finnish label participated in Copenhagen Fashion Week for the first time, and after yesterday’s show, it is surely very welcome to stay. ‘Old Italy meets Finnish Folklore’ was the headline of their A/W ‘12 collection, which indeed was the style displayed on the runway. Their hair parted and gathered in a loose but straight ponytail, the models took on a serious and melancholic look emphasized by black lips. The dark look matched the clothes, which were characterized by a Scandinavian simplicity with straight lines held in a subtle low-key range of colors, mainly consisting of black, grey and white, with a few exceptions in burned orange, metallic separates, prints and graphic stripes. Fitting the look nicely, the wide trousers with creases seemed to have been inspired by men’s fashion, most of them cropped in different ways. Jackets, coats and dresses had a simple, almost futuristic look with a round neckline and sculptural, voluminous sleeves. These items were combined with black pencil skirts and a few simple details such as zippers in the back were spotted on some of the dresses. The predominant Scandinavian coolness mixed with voluminous folklore-inspired skirts and dresses, giving the collection a foreign and intriguing edge. All-in-all a grown up and mature look, consisting of classics that can be used season after season.
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R E ST E RÖ D RESTERÖD
Halfway between the gutter and the stars words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
The Swedish label Resteröd had chosen a different approach when they presented their autumn/winter 2012 collection at Terminal-2 Friday morning. The regular runway models had been replaced by homeless people. Resteröd is not a wellknown name on the show schedule during Copenhagen Fashion Week, but this season they wanted to create awareness around the situation of homeless people and support a good cause with a special edition of Resteröd underwear, the profits of which are donated to ’Hus Forbi,’ the newspaper of homeless people. The underwear was presented by the boxing champ and former ’ Dancing with the Stars’ runner-up Patrick Nielsen, who had also made his way to the runway. The show was opened with spoken word by Jesper ’Jokeren’ Dahl, a poem about living on the streets. The collection featured easy to wear everyday clothes with slim jeans, chunky knits, and plenty of stripes and checks. A basic but nice collection.
Edith & Ella
Edith & Ella
Back to the 60s, back to life words: Rikke Dyrholm photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Edith & Ella’s show at City Hall presented a true celebration of the ‘60s, proving that the style of the decade hasn’t been lost. The collection featured modern interpretations of Twiggy and Edie Sedgwick classics, including fitted mini dresses, long knitted cardigans, rug-inspired capes, flair pants, fitted jumpsuits and puffy skirts. True to topic, the colors ranged from warm brown hues to loud colors like yellow, turquoise and red, accompanied by characteristic paisley prints and animal patterns in zebra and snake. Details like cropped pants, ruffles, puffy belted A-shaped skirts and feminine shirts, somewhat transparent, underscored the 60s celebration. The collection sported textures authentic in interpretation, mixing light, shiny materials with varied woolen qualities and artificial fur. Appropriate to the period, the styling pursued a gimmick of combining contradictions like tartan jackets with sparkling items. On top of it all, models appeared on stage wearing tomato-red stockings and sky-high heels, with colorful pompons and wavy hair. Despite its colorful celebration, the collection seemed balanced and wearable. It showed a different and diverse view on current trends, a refreshing contrast to traditional winter themes.
PHOTO : ANDERSHALD.COM
INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S FASHION FAIR COPENHAGEN 2 - 5 FEBRUARY 2012 DEFINING THE FUTURE WWW.CPHKIDS.COM
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R/H R/H
FINNISH IMPRINT words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
R/H is short for the collaborative between designer Hanna Riiheläinen and PR-agent Emilie Hernesniemi, who, after stints as assistant for Zac Posen in New York and PR work at Agency V in Berlin respectively, decided to join forces at University of Art & Design in their native Helsinki. Though still young in the business, R/H has already caught the eye of Danish colleague Henrik Vibskov, whose Copenhagen shop carries their design. You could understood why when viewing the A/W collection’s focus on nonconformist silhouettes in graphic and artsy prints. The Finns seem to have a knack for that, just think Marimekko. A series of different garments in dusty purple cotton with swirled brush stroke dots evoked memories of the pioneers, while the b/w prints promised a new direction. A lot of the clothes were paired with leggings and soft jersey dresses bordering on leisurewear, emphasizing the relaxed attitude of Nordic fashion.
Gaia GAIA
Russian modernism revisited words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Distinctive yet often feminine trompe l’oeil effects have become the trademark of Gaia Brandt’s knits, but designing for autumn and winter, her poetic approach to decoration was replaced by a more abstract expression. Her visual inspiration came from the Russian avant-garde art movement known as Constructivism, combined with references to skiing outfits from the 30s and 40s. Gaia sent out an array of beautiful knits and a few sewn shirts and dresses with geometric lines and figures, echoing the sports uniforms that the Russian Constructivist artist Varvara Stepanova designed in the interwar period. Jumpers, long and short cardigans in classic colors of red, black, white, grey and navy were highlighted with bronze sequins and metallic belts, teamed with skinny jeans, ski-pants and leggings, leather shorts and miniskirt. A long V-necked dress with playful designs evoked memories of French knit-guru Sonia Rykiel, herself inspired by modernists of the past.
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VELOUR VELOUR
Clothes for living
words: Lotte Freddie photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Such a lovely word, ”Velour”, the name Per Andersson has chosen for his brand, started in 1997 with mens’ and women’s clothing. The softness and sensuality that the word promises he transforms into everyday clothes for both sexes. Typically Swedish, easy-going separates, where purple and black are worked prettily, such as women’s striped dresses, fine raincoats or feminine corsage puff dresses. A warm yellow coarse knit goes with the season’s short, gathered black skirt and a stunning, fiery red, long organza skirt is coolly matched with a simple, black sweater. The Swedes are clever with men’s clothing, and Andersson also applies his deft hand with colors to men’s aubergine, lavender or dusty blue sweaters, worn with wonderful, roomy, well-cut trousers – that we LOVE - in warm yellow moss green and navy, respectively. Great clothes for everyday life.
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BY MALENE BIRGER BY MALENE BIRGER Seductive simplicity
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
First row looked like a New York nightclub, complete with little tables, lamps and a champagne-cooler under massive chandeliers, a waiter ready to pour while the score from The Godfather played in the background. The alluring and seductive music set the mood for a spectacle in the usual grand style of Malene Birger.
And seduced we were, by a sharp and focused collection, worn by models coiffed and made up like blonde Hitchcock heroines, interpreting the silhouette and style of late 50s and early 60s with modern twists like dog collar necklaces and heavy gilded chains. When it comes to making modern business women look good — and make others long for the same look — no one does it like Malene Birger. She used dark chocolate brown as the new basic color, accenting or substituting it for black in pencil skirts, jackets and well-tailored, slim pants with the sharpest crease line. Combined with camel and animal print in simple luxurious fabrics, it had a definite modern feel. A few greys had survived in checks and light tweed, impeccably tailored in flattering men’s style suits. Shots of color came in fluid, barebacked sensuous dresses and blouses in ochre, Matisse blue, icy mint and chlorophyll green, and a few delicate paisley-inspired prints. She did not disappoint fans of her signature b/w combination, from crisp shirts and pants to jersey dresses and silk skirts with lace inserts. Everything gracefully followed through on towering stilettos, thankfully without platforms.
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SAND SAND Forces of Sand
The setting at City Hall was perfect for one of Danish fashion’s strongest brands. SAND handily filled the space at City Hall, easily meeting expectations set by the brand’s reputation.
words: Rikke Dyrholm photo: COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
Presenting an all-star cast of models, the collection sported SAND’s very own classic style delicately influenced by current trends, in praise of the forces of nature. The collection showed diverging themes regarding female and male. While the male items were clearly inspired by English equestrians with perfectly tailored suits and riding boots, the female department explored different nuances of heavy winter themes. After entering a purely black and red theme, with long woolen coats and cropped pants, the heavy theme lightened to a more refined take on English poshness, and to twisted details like golden sequins and modernistic prints. The color scale also varied between the genders, featuring warm and grey hues true to nature for the males, while the female hues ranged from the green and blue tones to louder colors and metallic twists and prints. True to SAND’s trademark, the collection featured classic styles and details mixed with a fresh take on current trends in fashion, like cropped sleeves, heavy coats, fitted shirts and fairy pants for women, whereas riding boots, hats and different English-inspired takes on suits served the male department. SAND’s new collection was coherent, well tailored, classic in style and playful in expression. A very strong card is thrown on the fashion table from the hands of a successful designer brand.
dansk daily SATURDAY 4TH look of the day
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look of the day
by max factor words: Mikkel Hyldebrandt photo: SIMON B. MØRCH
History repeated SAND
The Look This makeup is all about past meets present, which of course creates a highly contemporary look. It is a classic style in which the skin is flawlessly finished and the eye makeup blends invisibly from pale nudes to lush browns. The past has been painted into the look in the accentuated eyebrows that evoke the late fifties and sixties. The brow is also key to making the otherwise slightly too perfect look more approachable, lending it a laissez-faire beauty attitude.
Key Products – all by Max Factor Xperience Weightless Foundation: Raw Silk no. 40 · Mastertouch Concealer: Ivory no. 303 · Max Factor Crème Puff Sun Frolic Eye Brow Pencil, Ebony no. 01 · Colour Perfection Eye Shadow Duo: Supernova Pearls no. 420 Liquid Effect Pencil · Flawless Perfection Blush, Mulberry. no. 225 · 2000 Calorie Mascara Lipfinity Top Coat, clear · Lipfinity, Spiritual no. 180 All products by Max Factor
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Peter Jensen and Nordic Man extravaganza words: magnus jorem photo: paw gissel
Fans of Nordic manhood.
After hours of munching space cookies behind a bush in the Botanical Gardens, Jesper Hentze and Adrian are .. like.. totes.. not.. digging.. all the.. like.. people.
This Southern beauty uses her shiny bangs to seduce unsuspecting Danish model boys to her family’s fabulously expensive Monte Carlo estate. An expert on manliness, manhoods and manlove from ArtRebels.
Journalist Sixten Ditlefsen and other generation of Ditlefsen.
Peter Jensen and Nordic Man extravaganza Friday afternoon, fashion designer Peter Jensen joined forces with the staff of new magazine Nordic Man for a sexy cocktail event at Gallery.
The lovely Marianne from old brand Daughters of Style and drummer husband.
As these women will attest, Peter Jensen is the new Hello Kitty.
So bromantic it hurts. Sporting a seductive see-through Balenciaga Sportswear top, Alphadogg leads Zenia, designer Per and random crowd-follower to a delicious buffet of Nordic men.
The one and only Peter Jensen shares a tender moment with a big, juicy piece of Nordic man, Jakob steen olsen, old friend and denmark’s leading theater critic.
SHOWING: AUTUMN WINTER 2012 - 13 VENUE: BELLA CENTER, CPH 02 - 05 FEB. 2012 CIFF.DK
S C A N D I N AV I A N SHOE CENTRE
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DANSK cocktail party words: magnus jorem photo: paw gissel
Denmark’s hardest working makeup artist Zenia Jæger clutches a bag full of goodies. These sassy chicks prefer reading Allers but will never say no to a free cocktail!
Purveyors of futuristic Scandinavian chill.
Elegant fashion power player Erik Brandt once wrestled a moose with his bare hands.
Photographer Oliver Stalmans feels the poppers workin’.
Extremely important princesses of DANSK Kim and Uffe pose for their baby’s ten-year b-day
DANSK cocktail part y Our mother publication celebrated its first decade in existence
One of the Vanggaard twins with endearing man company. These ferocious gentlemen found the other attendees “reductive”. Look it up.
Sizzling model hotnesses made their presence known.
David Andersen and his fierce posse of pejazzled Liberace-chic-glitterati-goesminimal Nordic.
Hairdresser/bear cub Joekim “Ooops” Nielsen flanked by token heterosexuals.
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Soulland front row words: magnus jorem photo: paw gissel
DAFI-buddies Anne Mai and Cecilie are all about champagne-fueled Soulland extravaganzas. Seen with mysterious Swedish blonde.
A cabinet member in a Wood Wood jacket? Only in Copenhagen!
Soulland enthusiasts.
The puppet-masters of all puppetmasters, Copenhagen Fashion Week’s leading lady Anne Christine Fiercesson, deigned to have her picture taken.
Apocalypse-chic menswear designer Jean Phillip craves dark, intricate luxury.
Soulland front row
Soulland’s A/W 2012 runway show had its fair share of streetwear-reinvention-luvin’ geezers and even a minister of culture!
The ever-present Fiona Jane and DJ/ booker/queer arts lounge-enthusiast Esben Nymåne.
Did Mary Kate Olsen finally appear, albeit in disguise?
Russian Vogue’s seriously juicy Vitaly Kozak enjoying Soulland. Leather, fur and cheekbones. They’re what fashion’s all about. She may look sweet, but if you disrupt the flow of CFW, Emilie Müller will cut you brutally.
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show schedule / events
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show sChedule SHOW SCHEDULE saturday 04.02.2012 BY INVITATION ONLY
12.00, Dansehallerne Tap E, Pasteursvej 14-24, Copenhagen V
NEW GENERALS 13.00, Nikolaj, Copenhagen Contemporary Art Center, Nikolaj Plads 10, Copenhagen K
AVIA OF SCANDINAVIA
events EVENTS
THE OAT MEAL 10.00-11.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V & Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV At the entrance of CPH Vision & Terminal-2 Fair visitors only SOUNDS OF TERMINAL-2 10.00-14.00, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV Terminal-2, Heineken Lounge Fair visitors only
ROSABRYNDIS A/W ‘12 PRESENTATION 12.00-18.00, Nørregade 7, Copenhagen K By invitation only BLACK DAKINI JEWELS 14.00-15.00, Nikolaj Plads 10, Copenhagen K Nikolaj, Copenhagen Contemporary Art Center Open to the public
DESIGNERS’ NEST EXHIBITION 10.00-18.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V CPH Vision, Designers’ Nest Fair visitors only
SHOESHIBAR & A.P.A PRESENTS 14.00-17.00, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV Terminal-2, Heineken Lounge Fair visitors only
AMUST NAIL POLISH BAR 10.00-18.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V CPH Vision, Egekilde lounge Fair visitors only
EGEKILDE AFTERNOON DRINK 15.00-17.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V CPH Vision, Egekilde Lounge Fair visitors only
ARTREBELS PRESENT: GARDEN OF GOOD — LIVE SUSTAINABLE PRINTING AND SEWING STUDIO 10.00-17.00, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg Gallery
U.S. IMPORT AND THE MEAT PRESENT DANA LEE NYC 18.00-21.00, Gl. Kongevej 37, Copenhagen V U.S. Import Open to the public
HENRIK ADAMSEN / FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY 11.00-23.00, Havnegade 44, Copenhagen K Custom House Open to the public
COPENHAGEN FASHION PARTY 21.00-04.00, Kalvebod Brygge 5, Copenhagen The Marriott Hotel By invitation only
U.S. IMPORT X THE MEAT X DANA LEE X LIBERTINE — LIBERTINE PARTY 21.00-05.00, Flæsketorvet 19 – 21, Copenhagen V Bakken, Kødbyen Open to the public FASHION WEEK TASTING MENU 21.00-00.00, Havnegade 44, Copenhagen K Custom House Open to the public CIRCUS OF ZEN 22.00-05.00, Nørregade 41, Copenhagen K Zen Open to the public UNIQUE MODELS FASHION WEEK 23.00-05.00, Store Strandstræde 14, Copenhagen K Simons By invitation only CPH FINEST FASHION WEEK CELEBRATION BY SCOOP, GALLERY FASHION FAIR, SHAMBALLA JEWELS AND ARMANI COLLEZIONI 23.00-05.00, Frederiksholms Kanal 12, Copenhagen K National Museum By invitation only
THE MOST IMPORTANT FASHION EVENT OF THE YEAR see you in Copenhagen on May 3, 2012 for the world’s Most iMportant fashion event Copenhagen fashion suMMit | May 3 | 2012 the Copenhagen opera house | denMarK CopenhagenfashionsuMMit.CoM
DF0058 - Dansk Daily Ad.indd 3
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NEW
FALSE LASH EFFECT
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VOLUME AND LENGTH. GET IT TOGETHER
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