SPRING / SUMMER 2014
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
SATURDAY AUGUST 10TH
A clean slate
REVIEWS
STINE LADEFOGED | WOOD WOOD VERONICA B. VALLENES | MOONSPOON SALOON
EVENTS
SPOT
World around HAN KJOBENHAVN
VEET STILETTO RUN GANNI COVER PHOTO FREYA DALSJØ BY MATHILDE SCHMIDT
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Denmark’s got talent Editorial
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen
Talent is the buzzword of the week. We see it on all levels, from the aspiring designers to the wellestablished fashion traders. It is honored with a cash prize at the bi-annual Designers’ Nest award show – although Dansk Daily critic Lotte Freddie thinks the judges made wrong decisions this time – and talent is promoted to spotlight new areas of Danish design. It is necessary to take new measures to fuel interest in fashion in general, and fashion from Denmark in particular. It is gratifying to see initiatives emerge to expand the concept of our world-renowned design aesthetic, such as The Jewellery Room, where 15 jewellers put on a show to stand united as examples of the close link between clothes and high-carat accessories.
Another is the DANSK Design Talent Award, which supports the idea of shedding light on creative fashion, but takes it a step further by challenging them in collaborating with a mentor and a muse. Speaking of, the international Copenhagen-based fashion label MUUSE continues to be successful in producing collections with some of the most visionary design talents around the world in collaboration with prestigious Italian Vogue. Fashion week has also uncovered another Danish talent, the ability to do business on a major scale. Hailed as the world’s most successful high street retailer by number of doors over fierce competitors Swedish H&M and Spanish Inditex (Zara among other brands), the Bestseller group
from the Jutland province of Denmark lives up to its name with close to 10,000 independent shops around the world, primarily due to progress in China unlike any other. While Bestseller focuses on sales rather than nourishing original design, the news that Bruuns Bazaar plans to combine creativity and commerce in an effort to enter the Chinese market as a premium fashion brand is a bold move. Where the younger, less established brands will take their talents next, we may get a clue come next Copenhagen Fashion Week, but judging from today’s show reviews, Freya Dalsjø could be one to watch.
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EDITORIAL
Contributors PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen Creative & Managing Editor Rozanna Fritz ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo, Mikkel M. Andersen · IRONFLAG SUB-EDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson Editorial Assistant / Web Editor Ilse Friborg Graphic Assistant Lukas Højlund
Editorial assistants Nina Guldmann, Rebecca Stahnke, Nina Kristine Charles Jensen WRITERS Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie, Sille Henning FashionForum Naja Helene Hertzum, Hans Gottlieb Simone Kjellegaard, Monica Senker Holbech PHOTOGRAPHERS Mathilde Schmidt Helena Lundquist Sales Representative Jens Løkke DISTRIBUTION Anne Stenvad Madsen PRINT Berlingske Avistryk
j e w e l l e r y d e s i g n c h a r l o t t e & o l e ly n g g a a r d • w w w. o l e ly n g g a a r d . c o m
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Anne loves Wood Wood’s AW13 collection
Blooming business
as it features a multitude of wearable pieces in amazing colors and materials. And the hat is brilliant!
www.woodwood.dk
Dress up your home
Bitte Kai Rand does not know the word crisis. According to CEO and husband Michael Rand, the brand has never had better business in ten years, and that encourages the veteran Danish design couple to expand further abroad. Their aim is 2-3 new shops per year, and after Gothenburg this Spring, they have their eyes set on Berlin. Meanwhile, they’re updating the interior of their own flagship stores in Stockholm and Copenhagen and adding a shop-in-shop to the Magasin department store in Århus. New energy is also seen in the Bitte Kai Rand design. She has found her match in assistant designer Anemone Skjoldager, whose bold ideas and clean aesthetic, inspired by her work in Paris and Tokyo after graduating from design school, fit perfectly with Bitte’s idea of tongue-in-cheek design juxtaposed with monochrome asymmetry, securing a new development for the brand. www.bittekairand.com
Last season, Defining Scandinavia emerged as a new initiative to host a fair for creative boldness and aesthetics in home decor. The premiere went so well that Øksnehallen once again welcomes exhibitors and buyers during the same days as Copenhagen Fashion Week rules the city. Defining Scandinavia presents the most distinctive trends under the heading ”Functional Moxie.” ”Moxie” is slang for courage, daring and spirit. Using the term, Defining Scandinavia is accepting a challenge: To focus on the way existing trends, put in a new functional context, address the genre of design and living, and thereby applauding courage and challenging the pre-existent. Says designer Louise Roe, when sharing Defining Scandinavia’s enthusiasm for people showing this courage and focus on functionality:
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– Scandinavian designers are known for their sense of quality, and along with spirit and daring, we are offering something unique that people want to be part of.” Her mission is to breathe new life into Danish interior design and add an architectonical touch to it using the graphic lines of the big city.
Little lieutenants The runways of Copenhagen aren’t populated by tall skinny fashion models only. Lately, interest in children’s wear has risen and has undeniably become an important part of CIFF. Designers are responding to great demand, providing a wide variety of different brands for chic mommies to choose from. And the opportunities seem endless. From the unashamedly cool and sustainable New Generals, to the more bohemian style of Noa Noa Miniature and even the clean-cut and colorful fashions of Petit by Sofie Schnoor. The many alternatives in children’s wear can be seen at the CIFF kids show.
SHOWROOM AT THE HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE KONGENS NYTORV 34 1050 COPENHAGEN K bmb_danskdailyx3.indd 3
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Mapmaker’s diary
SUMMER FUZZ For the first time, luxury brand Oh! By Kopenhagen Fur is exhibiting in Denmark at Gallery with its collection of accessories deriving from the proud art of fine fur-making. Throughout its 75-year history, Kopenhagen Fur has established itself as the world’s biggest fur auction house, and draws on this expertise and know-how in the innovative offspring Oh!, an accessories line combining high-quality natural materials with extraordinary craftmanship. The SS14 collection shows that fur is not exclusively for winter use. It features light knits and fur accessories in bright summer colors with material combinations never seen before. An interesting new item is the summer-glove made of 100 percent mink leather, a fine and very elegant material suitable for use in the warmer season.
Copenhagen Fashion Week’s Development Director and also Dansk Daily’s own Executive Editor, Anne Christine Persson, has been appointed Global Ambassdor of Copenhagen by Style.com as part of the new Style Map initiative. Style Map brings regular local updates on fashion and culture from 30 cities around the world written by 60 select ambassadors. Anne Christine Persson contributes alongside celebrities and fashion professionals including Courtney Love, Kylie Minogue, Caroline de Maigret, Jason Schwartzman and Jean Touitou. Get the latest insights into Copenhagen and Danish fashion from Anne Christine Persson and read her first contribution on the new generation of Danish fashion talent at www.style.com/stylemap.
Gallery Kids
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NEWS
Les enfants terrific DANSK MAGAZINE’s moussa ADORES WOOD WOOD One can never get too many shirts (or shoes, for that matter). The print on this Wood Wood is eye-catching, different, and a bit macabre.
Interest in childrenswear is rising and so is our love for the internationally acclaimed Danish brand Soft Gallery. Handmade embroidery, sophisticated details and quality clothing is what they are all about. Tine Holdt Møller and Barbara Hvidt, the designers behind the brand, create each collection in collaboration with a visual artist, giving the clothes an exclusive touch. The beautiful garments are not reserved for children alone, as their womensline is rapidly gaining recognition as well.
www.woodwood.dk
www.softgallery.dk
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news
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A royal affair
THE DAILY GEM
CREATIVE EDITOR ROZANNA LOVES GANNI SNEAKS www.ganni.dk
During her first interview as Crown Princess Mary of Denmark in 2008, the former Australian law graduate sported her discreet and elegant Shamballa macramé bracelet with a pavé bead made of rare pink argyle diamonds from Down Under, as a subtle combination of her two worlds. Over the years, Her Royal Highness has had her bracelet further redesigned, with the pink diamond pavé staying constant. The third customization into an orb bracelet with her signature pavé and one other pearl inspired the founding brothers of Shamballa Jewels, Mads and Mikkel Kornerup, to create a similar piece after 12 successful years with the ancient macramé technique. With consent from Amalienborg castle, it was launched at the prestigious Baselworld 2013 fair as the Royal Bracelet.
The pavé can be black or white on a gold chain, but the real novelty lies in the innovation of the second pearl on the Royal Bracelet, a clasp lock in the form of a classic Star of Shamballa bead, whose closure is inspired by the precision used in watchmaking. You would think that the other launch this spring was inspired by the many international, often male musicians known to have a personalized Shamballa bracelet, but don’t mistake the Pyramid Bracelet for a rock’n’roll-studded piece of jewelry. Rather, inspired by the architecture of the pyramids that play a big role in the spirituality of Buddhism and meditation, the small cones can be customized with pavé of diamonds or precious gems. If not preferred worn as they are, in 18-carat gold, then combined with the flat beads in the lock bracelet for a definite masculine look.
Cool by coincidence Bel Sac continues the fruitful collaboration between hot Danish designers and their well-established family company of 40 years, now run by mother and daughter Lene Hansen and Camilla Dalager.
Blog on bling If you missed the JEWLSCPH show Wednesday, be sure that Mai Manniche will fill you in on her new blog www.maimanniche.dk. Owner and designer of the company since 2005, Mai Manniche is passionate about jewelry and all things that sparkle. To share this with other devotees, she puts it in context with fashion, art and culture, as seen through her own eyes, and promises to take the followers around the world – and into hers.
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- I look forward to opening my Aladdin’s cave, to share my knowledge of jewelry and precious stones, but also my experience as a business woman. Once in a while, I can use some good advice from others, and maybe even find solutions this way. In return, I will take the readers of my blog to red carpet events and into the design studio, thus sharing my everyday life, Mai Manniche promises.
Previously, they’ve worked with Stine Goya on a lovely palette of colorful clothes and handbags, and now Mark Tan is lending his vision on innovative leather carry-alls to be presented with his new collection. During meetings on this joint venture, ideas emerged on revamping old models. This escalated into a re-design of Bel Sac’s greatest darling, the nylon knapsack from 1986, which will be launched with a cool new look right after the fashion week is over. www.belsac.dk
pilgrim.dk / find nearest retailer at pilgrim.dk/stores
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Inside Copenhagen
SELECTED gets a makeover Raw, honest and elegant. Those are the fundamentals of the new SELECTED store concept. Within a week, the brand has opened no less than three stores in Field’s, Horsens and Herning, launching its new concept:
5 best culture spots Anne-Dorthe Larsen, owner of the Nué Cph. fashion brand and boutiques, has many sources of inspiration within Copenhagen’s diverse cultural locales. Glyptoteket The grand architecture both calms and inspires you when walking the halls of this museum full of ancient art from the past 6,000 years. After looking at the statues, it feels exotic to sit down in the Winter Garden café and enjoy coffee and cake. Dantes Plads.
The idea is to create unique stores closer to the SELECTED universe, merging feminine and masculine values, as the brand is unisex. Using the story, qualities and charm of each location, the brand has successfully turned each one into a beautiful one-of-a-kind store.
Louisiana It is quite a ride to Humlebæk, but this labyrinth of a museum with an amazing sea view represents the best collection of modern art in Denmark, from native Asger Jorn to international Picasso and always interesting exhibitions, like the current retrospective of Yoko Ono. Lille Vega I have a soft spot for the aesthetics of 60s Danish architecture, so I love to be in this wooden-panelled venue originally designed by architect Vilhelm Lauritzen, either for an intimate concert or a night out dancing. Enghavevej. Statens museum for Kunst On the verge of the lovely, unspoiled park Østre Anlæg, the National Gallery is a feast for the eyes, currently with the critically acclaimed show Flowers and World Views featuring two centuries of flower paintings. Sølvgade. Cinemateket Showing everything from French silent movies to Indian dogma documentaries, this movie theater serves its purpose as a great inspiration for film in general, and a great escape, even on a warm summer night. Gothersgade.
www.soulland.com
Soulland
We are absolutely in love with the new Soulland SS14 collection, look book, film, model everything!
Forever young
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Celebrating 40 years of Matinique, the design team behind the legendary Danish menswear brand has launched the X Selection, a capsule collection of the finest threads. When founded in 1973, owner Niels Martinsen set out to create comfortable, high-quality and fashionable
clothing, skillfully interpreted to a wider audience, and he has maintained this success with a range of designers over four decades.
only the finest European materials. Passion and craftsmanship have gone into every detail, exuding subtle luxury and reflecting the style-consciousness of the wearer.
Lotte Boysen Goldschmidt and Jan Oliver Booth have now taken the driver’s seat, and for the jubilee collection they have chosen to manufacture in Europe, using
Though coming of age, the fashion of Matinique is more about an approach to life and how men see themselves, rather than design for a certain generation.
www.ohbykopenhagenfur.com
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V E RO NI C A B . VAL LENE S words Sille Henning photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
Fuss-free simplicity
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Veronica B. Vallenes is in a transition phase: she is no longer a “young promising talent” but rather on her way to becoming an established designer name with a consistent brand DNA. Her silhouettes are simple but modern and without too much fuss, and it is precisely in the simplicity that the label’s strengths lie, for instance in the feminine white pleated blouse mixed with a white pencil skirt, or the nude-colored silk pant suit with discrete sport references.
The new spring/summer 2014 collection was kept mainly in black, white and nude. There was also a dash of bright red and peacock blue and a single snake print, but it was the clean color blocking outfits that worked the best, showing off beautiful materials like silk, crêpe de Chine, and a soft imitatedleather material. The latter was used for some of the collection highlights, like the white, loose shorts or the beige berber pants mixed with a bright red silk top.
Once again, the jewelry in the show was by Bjørg Jewellery, and deserves mention as it gave the styling a nice edgy twist, which suited the overall impression of the collection. Vallenes’s dedicated followers weren’t disappointed at yesterday’s show; however, a bit more revolution and less evolution would suit the brand in future seasons.
INWEAR.COM
VISIT US AT VISION STAND 253
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BY M ALE N E Cool elegance BI RGER words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
”She is the only one here who is on the very top creatively and internationally,” Giorgio Pace declared at By Malene Birger’s fabulous dinner show in the Palm Court at Hotel D’Angleterre. The Italian art/fashion/lifestyle worldwide expert – who amongst other endeavours started Vision Magazine in Europe and has had Royal Copenhagen make 13 Flora Danica plates painted with the Benedictine order especially for the Pope - was as captivated as the designer’s other 80 guests.
around the catwalk took their tea and cucumber sandwiches in the afternoon at the palm court in Hotel D’Angleterre, where the season’s furs and clothes were presented.
This time, chairs in black and beige striped “dresses” lined five long tables decked with hundreds of candles in chiselled glasses, rose petals and white orchids in tall vases.
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The shocking-pink-dressed hostess could also celebrate having received the design Both by Malene Birger’s, usual, perfectly award Guldknappen, The Gold Button, the thought out lavish setting and by the perfect day before – for the third time. With the luxurious collection launched at the event. spring/summer 2014 collection, she fêted “The Ladies of the World.” It felt just like the good old days. Back when no financial or religious crises ruled the day, Dressed by Malene Birger, they can rest asback when the Ladies Who Lunch seated sured that other ladies immediately recog-
nize top design and quality. This is grown up, young elegance – never boring – held mostly in white, black and white, midnight blue and shocking pink. Fringes danced from long scarves over white, wide, loose Marlene Dietrich trousers that fall heavily in crepe under white jackets blinking with silver crystals embroidered on shoulders or sleeves. After a superbly simple crème coat, narrow zebra stripes challenge the eye, as do loose wowdresses in shocking pink silk crepe. Long loose shirts function as the daily casual necessity, while a long midnight blue column dress in one side edged with narrow strands of silver crystals is the quintessence of luxurious todie-for red carpet design. These are beautiful and sensual clothes for the lucky ladies of the world.
CPH FASH ION WEEK SS14
FEMME SHOWROOM
HOMME SHOWROOM
7 - 10 august 2013 10.00 - 20.00 / Lørdag efter aftale Mette Lynge (25513222) & Natascha Gaarsvig (52151521)
5 - 11 august 2013 10.00 - 20.00 / Lørdag 11.00 - 17.00 / Søndag efter aftale Nicolai Ohrt (52153881), Ulrik Riisom (52151357), Ulrik Leth (52151057) & Ole Radoor (25513303)
VISIT US AT HOLMEN – GALIONSVEJ 39, 1437 KØBENHAVN K / SELECTED.COM
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words Moussa Mchangama photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
World around It was almost a perfect way to end a show-packed Thursday. Not that Han Kjøbenhavn represents cutting edge fashion or surprises in terms of cut, fit, or coloring. But the brand, last season throwing a show in an installation inspired by the classic Nintendo game Super Mario Brothers, insists on being humorous when presenting collections. This season, the models – men of various ages type cast because they were good at playing table tennis – enjoyed a game of around-the-world ping pong while modeling.
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The clothes are a great representation of Scandi-cool in a relaxed fit, with narrow jogging-
ish pants in neutral colors, knitted sweaters and cool, slim coats. A shorts set in a matte rose was great, as was a green print on shirts and shorts, although most styles were held in white and grey nuances. Bathrobes, old school crocheted swimming caps and round glasses gave a distinct ‘40s Americana feel – but it never felt like costume, just as the show didn’t seem like an ironic comment on fashion. Instead, it seemed genuine and fun. “We just looked back at our youth in the suburbs, where we enjoyed racket sports. And there’s something architectonic in the lines that we worked with,” Jannik
Vikkelsøe Davidsen of Han Kjøbenhavn explained of their work. Han Kjøbenhavn are enjoying tremendous popularity with their store in New York, received the Bronze Lion at the Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity for their AW13 mood video, and seem to speak to a big audience with their mix of casual cool and relaxed authenticity. And so, the installation and the ping pong-playing models were an exemplification of the clothes themselves; it’s something that’s meant to be worn, that you’re meant to have fun in. Sometimes, fun is all you need. And that’s exactly what it was.
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S TI NE An avantgarde natural LA DEF O G ED words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
She has learnt her trade at The Royal Academy of Fine Arts School of Design, specializing in knit. And knit is her preferred material. With that she can manage to make fins, pouches, mega-stitched gladiator shoulders and stitched fencing leggings.
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With the new collection built over a robot theme, she has also ventured into jersey, cotton and leather, mixing the materials into the particular Stine Ladefoged look that is sold over the web, now also in the US, and loved and used by singers Aura, Szhirley and Saseline.
This is significant for her design – as it is intricately cut into graphic triangles and squares baring midriffs, hips and waists, and extremely demanding, requiring a faultless young body. Stine belongs to the same design aesthetics as Anne Sofie Madsen and indeed some cuts reminded of this vanguard designer. Stine has grown design-wise, and even though straps criss-crossed bare bodies or
held together pieces of cloth hardly covering the skin, the clothes have become more wearable – and if you really pine for this special design, a T-shirt or chiffon weater can be worn underneath. Padded fencing shoulders, leggings and vests emphasized a strong look and leggings sliced with zips were terrific eye catchers. No romance here, no pretty pretty skirts. But perfect outfits for the stage, and for discriminating personalities.
DANISH DESIGN
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Freya DalsjO A clean slate words Moussa Mchangama photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
If anyone expected to see styles reminiscent of last season’s hard hitting (but not very wearable) neoprene and leather pieces, they must have been surprised as last night’s Freya Dalsjø show began at City Hall. American model Lindsey Wixson opened the show in a slouchy silver silk number with slits up to there, followed by the same dress in a deep copper and an electric blue, respectively. With only three models in the show, repetition was necessary – and so the dresses were seen many times, as kimonos or boxy (and gorgeous) mesh and neoprene jackets were put on top.
“Windows,” Dalsjø said backstage after the show, as editors and stylists were fighting to give her compliments, on her inspiration. A fascination with stringent Japanese architecture was also visible. The windows were seen in the squares on the garments, as most pieces came to life with blocks of a beautiful rusty nuance, electric blue and orange, olive green, yellow, Mondrian red and blue. The clean start of silk dresses evolved into a more complex narrative (Dalsjø called it ordered chaos), when the pieces were worn over each other, the colors not being too loud because of the stringent look of the blocks.
It was thrilling to see the designer go in a more wearable direction, something that was much needed after the showpieces of last season. But working with the materials the designer did, it was a shame that some of the pieces lacked in finish or construction. Some of the silk wrinkled in the sewing, and while neoprene may be the material of the season, it’s difficult to get the cut exactly right, so it doesn’t fold in awkward ways, when you walk – sometimes, Dalsjø didn’t quite hit home here. That’s a shame, seeing that her collection had a newness, a summery feel and most certainly will get her the attention of many an editor.
The Designers’ Nest initiative, a competition for young students from Scandinavian design schools launched in 2005, is commendable. To win the DKK 50,000 prize, the criteria are:
grey, black and white knitted dresses and coats patterned in crossed stripes and large letters. Great proposals for future dressing by Sahzene Nilhan Johansen from Oslo National Academy of the Arts, who won third prize by truly fulfilling the above criteria.
like the design proposed by other students.
Creativity, artistic interpretation of contemporary trends. Innovative choice of design and materials. Potential for commercial success. Originality and power to propel. These were fulfilled by several of the men’s wear designers. As evident throughout Copenhagen Fashion Week, the male design has been among the strongest shown. Seen here in the
One wonders however, as in past shows, what the judges saw. Both the first prize – to Mathilde Maalouf, Kolding School of Design and the second, to Cathrine B Nygaaard, KEA School of Design & Technology, were won for ordinary, unimaginative styles. Old fashioned. Neither were innovative or forward-pointing
Like the beautifully made navy Katherine Hepburn trousers with orange accents by Bethina Elverdam Nielsen. Like the heavy black cloqué dress with swinging skirt, long in front, short in the back from Ting Yun Huang. Like the long, black pleated tube dress with futuristic mega ruffles stretched out with fish wire by Connie Riser Berge, or the black, knitted, braided, fringed men’s outfits by Lea Mølgaard Hedegaard. Maybe not immediately commercially viable, but inventive and invigorating – what fashion is all about.
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words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
Leaving the nest too soon
DESIGNERS NEST
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WHICH TALENT SHOULD MUUSE PRODUCE NEXT? VOTE from amongst over 300 entries at www.muuse.com/vogue See and help select a Scandinavian pick at CIFF for the chance to win a designer piece
Producing and Selling Collections for the World's Most Visionary New Designers WWW.MUUSE.COM
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B ARB A R A Artistic nerve I GO NGI N I words Elsebeth Mouritzen photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
It was still City Hall, but the luminous soundscapes of Faroese one-man band Orka embraced the audience packed for Barbara í Gongini and created a warm but solemn cathedral-like ambience as a contrast to her previous shows in run-down garages or industrial concrete buildings.
My neighboring colleague, a blogger and journalist from Manila dressed in a sleeveless long black tunic, pillbox hat and biker boots, was an ecstatic and expectant devotee to her unisex design universe.
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”This is democratic fashion for the 21st century. It challenges men and women to be cou-
rageous and cross over in their dress, and it has a timelessness to it that goes beyond seasons and trends,” he said just before a group of male models entered the runway and stood like human columns in Gongini’s typical deconstructed clothes, an interplay of textures, shapes and volumes. Particularly eyecatching was a biker-inspired jacket in leather and matching shoulderbags, which looked like they had been left out in the rain and wrinkled when drying.
Following the clothes dedicated to the male gender came a motion of female models lead by Gongini’s favorite, Maja Mazur, dressed in black tulle from Roman warrior helmet to tiered skirt and removable train. In between
the avantgarde outfits – of complex knitted made-to-order art pieces teamed with her signature holed jersey leggings and strong asymmetrical jackets and trenchcoats – came an interlude of long, decidedly feminine halterneck dresses in light crinkled silk that together with cropped skinnies in leather were the most wearable in the collection, for those of less avantgarde inclinations. The monochrome collection was integrated on its own terms. Barbara í Gongini has a very artistic nerve and the design evokes imagined costumes for futuristic film and modern dance, but at her most brilliant she also knows how to enhance the prosaic amidst the avantgarde.
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MOONSPOON SALOON Candy box words Sille Henning photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
Forrest Gump said that life is like a box of chocolates, but when it comes to Moonspoon Saloon, it’s more like an entire candy store. The backdrop looked a bit like liquorice allsorts, and even though the new collection was named ‘Disco Oriental,’ it mostly reminded me of a selection of candies, all shiny and glittery in all kinds of colors and prints and geometrical shapes. There was the liquorice in black with a dash of red, the multicolored sweets, and the glittering wrappings like the toreador-inspired jacket with matching hot-
He came because of love at first, four years ago. Now Wali Mohammed Barrech is back in Copenhagen. Because he loves it here. “Everybody is so kind and welcoming”, says Wali Mohammed. “Not like in any other country I have been.” Nationalist politician Pia Kjærsgaard would be pleased, the statement coming from a half-Pakistani, half-Croatian who has grown up in Cologne and Berlin in Germany and studied for four years at The Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Yesterday, he showed his first collection made
pants, or the short dress with pants in different colored glittering material with a matching stringbag. In the middle of all the craziness and inventiveness were also some easy and commercial styles, like a simple black silk print, whereas the glittery fine, knitted striped shorts held great appeal and could easily be see on many of the fashion editors next season. The collection’s strength lied in all the glittery parts, while other elements, like the patent mixed with either chunky knit or leather, didn’t have quite the same high level.
mostly for men, but long tunics, kaftans, skirts and jackets in pale blue cotton chambray canvas striped with white bands across shoulders, back and along sleeves can actually work as unisex design. Bright red jersey as sweatshirts or a midi long dress with zip side seams look tempting, and white neoprene tops printed with black will temp the courageous. Pale blue or red nylon coats with matching trousers may function as rainwear, but could they become very hot? Maybe the material is breathable, in any case the colors and the canvas were lovely and looked delicate on the models, both men and girls.
“I had a good job waiting in Paris after I graduated from Antwerp”, tells Wali, “but that is not the kind of life I am chasing. Copenhagen’s full of possibilities and has great potential, I have a good life here.” His inspiration for the collection is workwear and what it represents. He finds power in workwear to defy the superficiality in virtual social behaviour where people expose everything trivial and almost any kind of intimacy – on the web, in the media. A phenomenon he finds scary, worrying, strange and dangerous, and which Wali Mohammed Barrech finds ways of fighting against, through his collection.
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words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week
A Copenhagen lover
WALI MOHAMMED BARRECH
DENMARK’S ONLY real OUTLET VILLAGE HOME TO DANISH AND INTERNATIONAL BRANDS
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Cla ire B e e rm a n n fro m Vo g u e G erm a ny wa s a l l s mil e s a f t e r su cce ssfu l ly co m pl et i n g her n o t e- t a ki n g from t h e DAN S K C ol l ec t ive d i s pl ay.
Models Ma lt h e Lu n d M a ds en a n d L i n d s ey Wi x s o n w i t h design er Fre ya D a lsj ö, who l a t er t ha t d ay pres en t ed a colorful, s ilk y, n e o p re n e ish l ayered col l ec t i o n o f d ress es , cap es a n d g ra n d t o t al o f t hree (t o p) m o d el s .
T h e Te l e graph’ s Soph ie Warb urton is s o ove r al l th e tawdr y de s igns in th e UK and, s e e n h e re , is pos itive ly th ril l e d ab out Scandinav ian fas h ion.
Je we l r y innovator Trine Tuxe n b e l ie ve s th at noth ing compl e me nts cool Scandinav ian bl ing l ike b row n attitude b angs .
The woman i n charg e of Dani sh Fashi on Insti tute, Eva Kruse, member of at least 2 0 board s of d i rectors and spearhead er of g reen i ni ti atives i n the d i rty i ndustri ali zed f ashi on world.
Ky l e Ande rs on from Mari e Clai re U S or a fl amb oyant ve rsi on of Dani sh electroni c mus ic producer M i kkel Holtoug ?
Elle’s Ceci li e Chri sti ansen wi th Desi gners Remi x d esi g ner Charlotte Eski ld sen and the woman who let’s you save the envi ronment every ti me you apply moi sturi zer, And rea Eli sabeth Rud olph.
DANSK COL LECT I VE
Photos – A MANDA H ES TEH AV E & H elena Lund quist
Words – M agnus J orem
A co m bi n ed s howcas e of s ome of th e fre s h e s t b rands to come out of De nmark in recent years, DANSK C ol l ec t ive dre w inte rnational j ournal is ts , h ome b re d de s igne rs and powe rful i ndustry i nsi d ers.
Reception cu n t [ r ə sɛ pʃə n k ə n t ]
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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES
(n .) A hop ele ss in div idu a l w i t h n o m ea n i n g i n l i fe o t her t han fre e ch am p agn e, ch e e k k isse s, p o s ea t ol o g y a n d I n s t a g ra m . Usage example: I s aw Frede An de rse n a n d C hri s Ped ers en a t t he Dav i d An de rs on for Harib o re ce p t io n ye st erd ay. They a re s u ch recept i o n c u nts .
Perso n a lly, I wo u ld K a nye Wes t a ny fa s hi o n awa rd s how Anne Sofie M a dse n didn’ t wi n , even i f s he wa s n’ t n o m i n a t ed. “ Yo Ste l l a I’m ha p py f o r yo u a n d I ’ m a l et yo u fi n i s h bu t AS M pre s e nte d one o f t h e bes t col l ec t i o n s o f a l l t i m e.”
De s igne r Bitte K ai Rand w ith minion Anne mone .
Graph ic mas te rmi nd s of Ironf lag and j ail b ait-for -cougars-extraord i nai res L uk as and Mi kkel.
O h , we ge t it, it’ s an ironic k nitte d s weate r re s e mbli ng a shi rt and ti e. Seen next to me ga ce l e b rity Jakob Axh ol m Bal l ing, w h ose overwhelmi ng f ame from participating in th e 2010 e dition of Danis h Parad i se Hotel prompted th e creation of a “ Jakob Axh ol m Bal l ing P rivate ” account on Facebook.
When she’s not perf ormi ng f or nu-nuravers worldwi d e as Gri mes, Amali e li kes to attend f ashi on recepti ons.
Industry i nsi d er As Øland i s an avi d collector of boytoy colleagues.
From the
Coolest
Corner
Nordisk smykkekuNst 28.06 – 15.09.2013
Bredgade 68 – 1260 KøBenhavn K – www.designmuseum.dK DMD_FTCC_annonce_DanskDaily.indd 1
8/7/13 10:57 AM
SATURDAY AUGUST 10th
dansk daily
Fo rce o f f a sh io n f u l l o f d et erm i n a t i o n t o pu rcha s e th e en t ire S t in e G oya s t o re w i t h her ha rd - ea rn ed a c t ress cas h .
De s igne r Stine Goya h adn’ t b e e n th is h appy s ince th e Me dina s w imming pool incide nt; s e e n h e re w ith arch ite ct frie nd Mal e ne Hv idt.
Styli st Emi li e Guld brand sen wi th entrepenuer gi rlf ri end Carla Cami lla Hjort and possi bly heterosexual f ri end.
STINE GOYA Photos – H elena Lund quist
Words – Magnus J orem
R a t h e r t h a n s t a gi n g a s how t hi s s ea s o n , S tine Goya h ad h e r h ands b us y l aunch ing h e r firs t-e ve r Stine Goya f lagshi p store, whi ch opened of f i ci ally yesterd ay.
If, la st sea so n , you t ho u ght Ru n e Pa rk o f t he H o u se o f H e n rik Vib skov co u l d n’ t l o ok a ny m o re l i ke Ru ne Pa rk , we l l, he’ s u pped hi m s el f a g a i n . Be h ind h is s h ade s , de s igne r Sil as Adl e r was s e cre tly e ngaging in a s tanding-up s ty l e of Ze n me ditation th at h e l earne d w h il e tre k k ing th e Himal ayas .
Singe r K are n Marie Groth , C il l e from Die s e l w ith big h air and frie nd.
To p M o de l C a rol i n e Bra s ch & b o oke r d a d dy M u n i r.
B log g er/actress/mod el/d j/movi e hostess Emma Leth was on 1 1 of Cover mag azi ne’s covers last year, captured here besi d es styli st f ri end Ri kke Wackerhausen.
Si nger Cami lle Jones never mi sses a DANSK Party.
DAN S K/ di es e l pa rt y Photos – S O F I E B A RF O ED
Words – RO Z A N NA FR IT Z
page 28
V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES
O u r pa rent publ ication DAN SK Magazine j oine d force s w ith Die s e l for a Fri d ay ni ght party.
Cin die f ro m N oise P R a n d L u lu fro m Yo uH eS he.
Unique Mode l s’ ce o Jacque l ine , Martin from Gre naaBuch ard and frie nd.
B ooker brothers Peter f rom U ni que and Thue f rom Eli te Mod els.
Hemmeligheden bag silkebløde ben Veet Easy Wax System - et professionelt designet, selvopvarmende vokssystem, der giver dig glatte og silkebløde ben i op til 28 dage.
Så nemt er det:
1
Den selvopvarmende applikator opvarmer voksen til den rigtige temperatur.
2
Herefter påfører du voksen og bruger de medfølgende strips til at fjerne den.
Fri for parabener
3
Så nemt er det at få et perfekt resultat, der holder i op til 28 dage.
What beauty feels like
VeetEasyWax-DanskDaily266x370.indd 1
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dansk daily
Childre n swea r m aven H el l e H ø g s bro a n d m u s i ci a n h u bby Jo n a s Kra g have s een i t a l l.
T h is wax re pl ica of Dutch s e l fie -bl ogge r L ara Ros e w ith s tood th e courtyard h eat for an e ntire h our b e fore b e ginning to me lt.
GA NNI
Photos – H elena lund quist
Charlotte Juhl of Dani sh Elle and Vanja Sprei tz Armborst of Elle Internati onal love talki ng about lad i es thi ng s.
Words – Magnus J orem
Fa s hi o n l a bel G a n ni s h owe d its ne w s artorial offe rings ye s te rday morning in th e fabulous courtyard sunshi ne.
G a n n i de sign ers Ti n e Fri i s a n d K a t ri n e G re e n are pla n n in g a M i ckey M o u s e- t hem ed col l ec t i o n n ext s eas on, f ollowin g in t he fo o t s t eps o f S o u l l a n d ’ s Ba ba r s ucce ss . M ayb e t hey’ l l even d ress Dav i d B eckha m.
Girl s l ook s exy in b oy is h ge tups l ike th is , e ve n to gay guy s .
Re volut i onary d i sc-spi nner Ena pulls up the treble and removes the bass e ntire ly bef ore reversi ng and cranki ng i t up to the max and d rivi ng the dance fl oor MAD crazy to the g uaranteed banger 2 B rothers on the 4 th F loor – Come Take My Hand. Gi rl knows how to d j.
V E E T S T ILET TO RUN Photos – Jonas Grue
Words – Magnus J orem
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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES
E a ch s ea s o n , C o pen ha g en Fas h ion Fe s tival r uns s imul tane ous to C ope nh age n Fas h ion We e k, of f eri ng the general publi c a w i d e ra n g e o f fa s hi o n eve nts and s h opportunitie s . A de finite h igh l igh t each time is th e Ve e t sti letto race i n whi ch a host of ex hi l era t ed l a d i es make a das h for it in dange rous ly h igh h e e l s . Any th ing for a good f ashi on pri ze, ri ght?
FrEE EntrY BY onLinE prE-rEGiStrAtion
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tHE SS14 EDItION OF
8tH - 10tH OF AUGUSt 2013
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