AUTUMN WINTER 2012
dansk daily
proud sponSOr of
THURSDAY FEBRUARY 2ND
Cover Photo WACKERHAUS by Simon B. Mørch
Max Factor Look of the Day · Spon Diogo
New trend · Toddler Chic
Reviews · KAREN BY SIMONSEN, RÜTZOU, WACKERHAUS
OLE YDE PERFECTS THE FEMALE FORM
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EDITORIAL
2
GROWING UP IN STYLE editorial Accompanied by a pouty pop song by Brigitte Bardot, the podium at yesterday’s CIFF Kids show was conquered by children, who were choreographed by renowned dance teacher Helen Dohlmann and styled by the equally cool kids at Cover magazine. The lesson for young fashionistas, whether they dig the princess or Pippi Longstocking look, is always to choose an individual style. The scene was emblematic of a new trend in Danish fashion, which is also currently being documented by international fashion magazines, busy chronicling celebrity toddler Suri Cruise’s outfits. Children are increasingly fashion conscious — that is, their parents are, apparently hunting for great quality in days of recession. Founded in a time of financial crisis, the new addition to the Copenhagen Fashion Fair, CPH Kids, is
continually increasing its numbers of exhibitors. And the team behind the new fair is boldly launching a magazine, entitled FROM, with an ambition to provide cutting-edge fashion journalism for kids. Meanwhile, it’s not just the children of Copenhagen that are growing up in style. Copenhagen Fashion Week is expanding and has never boasted more shows than now, with a record of 44 designer brands presenting new collections on the Danish runways. And, since last year, national fashion exports have increased by 13,4 percent. This week, no less than three members of the Danish government will engage their time in Copenhagen Fashion Week, each speaking for a still stronger a n d s t i l l m o r e e n v i r o n m e n t a l ly sustainable fashion business. Minister for Climate Martin Lidegaard, Minis-
ter for Culture Uffe Elbæk, and Minister for Trade and Investment Pia Olsen Dyhr have all invited for press calls this week. ”Fashion week is an important event that greatly emphasizes our ability to think creatively and innovate,” said Pia Olsen Dyhr in an issued statement, and we couldn’t agree more. Simultaneously, super brands such as Day and Sand are finally back with shows, while established names like Rützou, Baum und Pferdgarten, Bruuns Bazaar, Henrik Vibskov, and many more have welcomed new stars Stine Goya, Wackerhaus and Soulland among them. The days are getting longer and lighter, and it’s time for fashion week. How great is that?!
Iben Albinus Sabroe EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
CONTRIBUTORS PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Iben Albinus Sabroe CREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT COORDINATOR Rozanna Fritz PROJECT COORDINATOR Jacob Petersen ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo & Mikkel Møller · IRONFLAG SUBEDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson BEAUTY EDITOR Mikkel Hyldebrandt EDITORIAL ASSISITANT Rasmus Peter Sandberg Sloth WRITERS Elsebeth Mouritzen, Kristine Kaalund, Lotte Freddie, Rikke Dyrholm, Sille Henning, Stinne Jensen PHOTOGRAPHERS Simon B. Mørch, Paw Gissel, Sacha Maric DISTRIBUTION Cath Møss, Julie Christine Kühne, Stina Ildor Jacobsgaard PRINT Berlingske Avistryk
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DA N S K M a g a z ine OUT NOW! The new DANSK Magazine 10 years anniversary issue is out now!
Insid e C openh a gen Melanie Buchhave, a leading Danish stylist, shares her secrets on how to enjoy Copenhagen. What’s the best place to have breakfast or lunch? BankeRåt in Nansensgade — it has everything you desire after a heavy fashion party night. You’ll never be the only one with a hangover. Where do you like to go shopping? I like second hand, so I often head to Pisserenden a.k.a. Larsbjørnsstræde, where the vintage shops are lined up and ready for your style appetite. Don’t forget to go to Time’s Up, a five minute walk away in Krystalgade, which sells more upscale vintage. And what’s Copenhagen’s best hangout? Hanging out in Christiania, summer or winter, is always cool, but honestly, try to make some friends who live in Copenhagen and hang out at their place, ’cause that’s what we do! If at first you don’t succeed, dust it off and go to The Log Lady Café in Studestræde, an insanely cozy bar/café that has a really home feel.
D anish b a con Give us a ‘J’ give us a ‘U’ give us an ‘L’ give us an ‘I’ give us an ‘A’ give us an ‘N’ give us an ‘E’ – it spells drop dead gorgeousness. Juliane Grüner of Scoop Models (pictured above to the left of fellow Danish model Kirstin Liljegren)
B oy m eets girl
adds some
Even the manliest prince can become
spanking fresh bacon sizzle to the pan of
a real queen after only three glasses
international fashion modelling.
of Sex On The Beach (as if that’s
It’s not
just us who love Juliane – Balenciaga does
never happened to you).
too. Why else would they, for the first time, use the same model for two cam-
Boy versus girl – nowadays, the dis-
paigns?
tinction is blurred. That’s exactly
Mommy should be ever so proud.
what Moonspoon Saloon designer Sara Sachs, in cooperation with the Danish artist Evren Tekinoktay, has been inspired by, creating The Princess Collection – a metamorphosis through art, fashion and performance. His purple highness, the artist once again known as Prince, is still an essential inspiration for the designer.
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PRO D U C T O F TH E DAY The ultimate eye-opener
Creative editor R oz a nn a lo v es STINE GOYA’ s G O L D S HO E S
It seems mascara is becoming more and more of a science with rocketlike
proportions.
Longer,
wider,
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Suiting themsel ves Over the last two months, Unique Models’ Jesper Thomsen and photographer Henrik Adamsen have been shooting a selection of the agency’s models, all wearing a variation of the same suit, with the same background, letting their many bold personalities stand out. The result is 29 gorgeous models in a 66-page newspaper — The Suit — showcasing
should do. Simply put.
some of Denmark’s most eye-pleasing talent.
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If you’re lucky, you can get your hands on a restaurants in Copenhagen during CFW, or
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download it after the week is over at Unique’s blog — visit www.unique.dk. The photos are also exhibited at CUSTOM ART GALLERY, Havnegade 44, DK 1058 Copenhagen, January 30 — February 3
Mobile app Keep yourself updated with news, schedules, showrooms, designer info, a city guide, and much more. Grab your phone and text “CFW” to +45 2290 4000 to get the free Copenhagen Fashion Week app right away.
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C O MP E T I T I O N Win the ultimate fashion collection... ...and check out lots of other prizes, including gift certificates to the luxurious beauty salon Complete Me and products from Karmameju, at www.danskdaily.dk
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A fashion journey If this week’s Siberian wind-chills doesn’t tear up your eyes and take your breath away, the exhibition Northern Women in Chanel just might make it happen anyway. Freja Beha Erichsen, Helena Christensen and Louise Pedersen are among the 45 Nordic super models featured in this sensational demonstration of how fashion, photography and art can form a stylish threesome. Slap on your finest clothes – and buy a ticket for a fashion journey that runs from February 1 through April 8 at Designmuseum Danmark.
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Decade of d eca d ence — DANSK com es O F age Dansk Daily’s pre-teen mom was conceived back in 2002, when Creative Directors Kim Grenaa and Uffe Buchard gave birth to DANSK magazine to showcase how Danish fashion is adaptable to an international context. 27 issues later, DANSK magazine, in cooperation with Danish Design Centre and ECCO, launches the time-capsule exhibition Ten Years of DANSK – A Decade of Danish Fashion. If you think you can handle multiple photogasms, enter Danish Design Center from January 27 through March 4 — at your own behest!
Celebra te wo men a rtists of t h e a vant - g a r d e A new exhibition at Louisiana presents eight of the most prominent female artists of the avant-garde through the similarities and differences in their lives and work combined with an art-historical perspective on the European avant-garde in the 1920s and 30s. The exhibition, which opens February 14 at the Louisiana museum of modern art north of Copenhagen, shows how the female artists such as Sonia Delauney and Florence Henri contributed crucially to the
B ookm a rk us !
aesthetic renewals that took place
Want to read Dansk Daily on your iPad or iPhone? Go
in those years. Louisiana.dk
to issuu.com/copenhagenfashionweek and bookmark it directly to your home screen.
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FEATURE
12
toddler chic Toddler chic
words: Iben albinus sabroe
Fashion brands for children flock to the new alternative fair Cph Kids. Children’s fashion is on the rise, and new stylish outlets Cover Kids and From Magazine are ready to report on the latest trend – toddler chic.
cover kids · photo: rasmus skousen styling: emelie johanson
Celebrities are not the only ones to adorn their toddlers with trendy outfits. Testimony to that is Lone Holm, founder of CPH Kids International Fashion Fair. The fair, an alternative to CIFF Kids, traditionally held at the Bella Center, has within just a couple of years grown faster than a teenage boy in puberty. ”This year we count 43 new brands at CPH Kids, and even though we have lost a few exhibitors, it still means we have grown quite a lot,” says Lone Holm, who during this Copenhagen Fashion Week counts more than 130 children’s brands at the fair’s location at Carlsberg Tap 1. Last season exhibitors reported an increase of 3050 percent of visitors at CPH Kids. ”Even though we were born during a slump, we have managed to become a success. It is part of our strength, because if you can grow in a time of crisis, you are in a good position. It is also a sign that despite the tight budgets, or maybe because of them, people need new inspiration. Also, it makes people want to go for good quality.”
”People say we’re crazy to launch a new magazine at this point in time, but we believe that there is room for a more daring approach to this new market,” says Lone Holm. While Cph Kids are happy and proud to cooperate with internationally successful magazines such as Italian Vogue Bambini and trendsetting German Kids Wear, whose famous editor Ann-Katrin Weiner will share her branding tips with exhibitors and guests Wednesday and Friday this week, FROM aims for a more experimental profile. Launching at hip locations like fashion store Storm and Normann Copenhagen, both Danish equivalents to Colette in Paris, FROM Magazine enters the Danish fashion world with high ambitions. According to their CPH Kids’ newsletter: ”FROM is a magazine about youth and culture. Born and based in Copenhagen, raised by Scandinavian beliefs, interested in the whole world. FROM seeks to chronicle the cornerstones of youth. The good and the bad, the hip and the ‘unpretty’, the deep and the superficial. FROM plots the childhood of contemporary life in images, articles, essays, short stories, statements, letters from kids, social issues, cultural debates. In pictures and in words, youth is both documented and aestheticized. FROM digs to find out whether ‘the kids are alright’ — consider it a testimony of ways to answer this.” “Før var jeg egenrådig, alt skulle være A new manifesto is born, and the man- på én måde” Designer og nybagt mor, Goya, om at lukke tra being celebrated is, of course children Stine mand og barn ind i sit liv should be taken seriously. And, that , mine also includes assuming they have just as Dine og vores børn good taste as their parents. Quite possibly Sammenbragte familier om kompromisser, glæder they will have even better taste when og udfordringer they actually grow up. It seems, at least, that they will have no excuse not to. Familie- og livsstilsmagasin nR 03 Februar 2012 Pris 49,95 kr.
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cover kids · nr 03 February 2012 Photo: rasmus skousen
Quality is a key word for CPH Kids, which seeks to distinguish itself by offering and showcasing brands that boast exclusive children’s wear, by brands that differentiate themselves. Examples are quirky cute Soft Gallery, stylish outerwear Ver de Terre, Mar Mar’s ’understated elegance for kids’, Mads Nørgaard’s classic but cool styles, and Katvig, with its popular organic profile. ”Traditionally there was no focus on the fashion element in clothing for kids, and that’s what we wanted to emphasize.” According to Lone Holm these high quality fashion brands for children meet a rising demand from a new generation of parents. ”Children are very much in focus in Scandinavia, as well as children’s lifestyle. Danish children’s fashion is stylish, but also practical,” she says. In Scandinavia there is a reluctance against dressing children like small adults, and you rarely see too many simili stones on girl’s dresses, like you do in for instance Italy, she explains. As fashion increases its role in our storytelling as individuals, Danish children’s fashion communicates an idea of ’the good childhood’.
Featuring Stina Goya, a highly celebrated, edgy Danish designer, on their February issue, the new Danish lifestyle magazine Cover Kids paints a new picture of family life. Catering to a new breed of urban parents, to whom style is synonymous with feeling good, Cover Kids portrays babies in Petit Bateau, toddlers in Soft Gallery and school girls in Gudrun&Gudrun knitwear. And while Cover Kids delivers aesthetic inspiration for quality family life, yet another fashion magazine for children enters the scene. FROM Magazine is a bold, new initiative from CPH Kids, designed to inspire an edgier, more original approach to children’s clothing.
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A fa s h i o n b lo g d e d i c ate d to a celebrity is nothing unusual, but in the case of Harper Seven Beckham, a record is broken. The daughter of David and Victoria Beckham is six months old. Yet her first Chloé boots and Marc Jacobs dress are registered and her looks praised. She was celebrated on Vogue UK’s best dressed list 2011. Meanwhile, Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes’ five year old girl, Suri Cruise, was recently named best dressed celebrity child by Myfirstyears.com. Children are in fashion, and not just literally. Having kids is a status symbol reinforced by glamorous movie stars like the Beckhams, whose first daughter is their fourth child, and of course the Jolie-Pitts, whose offspring count currently stands at six.
cover kids · photo: casper sejersen styling: rikke wackerhaus collage: Thea Bjerre
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RÜTZOU RÜTZOU
Shang-High Society
words: Kristine Kaalund photo: sasha maric
Susanne Rützou proved her worth at her Wednesday night show at the alternative setting of ’den grå hal,’ a dark and cozy industrial space in Christiania. The collection was inspired by 1930s Shanghai and cool society women from New York like Iris Apfel, which showed in a style both decadent and sophisticated, with draped and loose feminine silhouettes combined with tight minimalistic shapes. Great prints garnished the raw silk and suede jackets with loose lapels — as seen at Rick Owens — which worked well with the ladylike style. The colors spanned from burgundy, black, grey and navy to a few splashes of green, red and yellow. A style worthy of mention was a navy-colored suit with an oversized jacket cut with wide lapels turned inside out. Other styles fluttered gently with gauzy silk as the models walked down the runway. Susanne Rützou is one of Denmark’s great designers and has to be applauded for her classy style with the always strong Rützou profile. The collection almost sold itself directly off the runway, an impression underscored by the admiring uh-ing and ah-ing of the audience. Well done!
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Kopen hagen Fur Kopenhagen Fur Cool Copenhagen colors
words: Lotte Freddie photo: sasha maric
“Miss Happiness”, Wei Wei, winner of the Chinese model competition in Shenyang, north of Beijiing, opened the Kopenhagen Studio show at City Hall yesterday. She was happy showing furs not only considering the Siberian cold enveloping Copenhagen, but also because she had a compatriot fro m C h i n a a m o n g st t h e s e ve n d e s i g n e r s selected by Michael Holm, design manager at Kopenhagen Studio. Young designers picked from design schools in six countries – the UK, Greece, Russia, Ukraine, Scotland and Denmark — showed their ideas of how to use fur in new and innovative ways, which overall turned out as a play with colors. Beautifully worked by Eliana Dimitrakopoulou from Greece in fox jackets striped in white/ orange/blue – worn with micro gold shorts. Black men’s coats were inlaid with turquoise mink by the UK’s Louise Simmonds, and Ruiyue Liu from China offered a waistcoat in half red, half green/orange zigzag stripes, blue lapels — all in mink. Morten Underberg Olesen courageously worked separates in wine with verdigris, beautiful in silk, topping it all with wine petals and mink coats in peach or orchid further embellished with bands of silver lamé. All in black though, and absolutely terrific, were Alexandra Gold’s cool “luxury street” hats. Caps with oversized brims asymmetrically covered in black fox. They are going to do great at Topshop, where Alexandra does some of the hat designs.
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JEWLSCPH
JEWLSCPH
Pretty precious
words: Sille Henning photo: sasha maric
Yesterday, jewelry designer Mai Manniche presented her autumn/winter 2012 collection with the title ‘ Precious Dreams Come True’. The collection carried on the established DNA of JewlsCph with chandelier earrings, extravagant necklaces, precious stones and plenty of sterling silver and gold. With a focus on trends and color, the new collection added chunky diamond Marilyn Monroe-inspired pieces and precious stone designs in pastels. There were big stylish bohemian earrings and also lots of necklaces with symbols – from the well-known love and power necklaces to new dog tag inspired ones, which were among the show standouts. Also new were simpler black designs which added a bit of rock’n’ roll to the collection. A subtle necklace with a four-leaf clover pendant provided another highlight. For the first time in the history of JewlsCph, Mai Manniche also presented a small line of jewelry for men, with pieces including long and heavy necklaces and masculine bracelets.
CIFF KIDS
Cool karma kids words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: sasha maric
Every parent’s nightmare — getting out of the door with the kids looking a mess — is no longer a cause for concern: It’s fashion! A breath of fresh air has swept through the CIFF Kids area at Bella Center. The collaboration with hip Danish magazine Cover Kids’ publishers has informed a new look at how to communicate children’s fashion to the buyers. Echoing the personal and relaxed karma of the magazine, the trend show was literally down-to-earth in the fairy tale setting of “Valley of the Snowy Owls”, complete with a backdrop of white mountains and drawings of flying owls, with the modeling toddlers and pre-teens jumping, skipping and walking across the floor. The clothes were both adorable and practical, styled in an effortless manner — as if the kids had done it themselves — all the while reflecting the themes seen in their parents’ closets. Nordic knits and pants in muddy colors, perfect for the playground, joined the collection’s junior grunge in blue denim and lots of checked shirts, and colorful Pippi Longstocking jackets and pants. If there’s a need for mom and dad to put their foot down, school blazers and pretty dresses are still being made. But it looks cuter when the kids have the last say, and twist it with heavy boots or metallic ballerinas.
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ECCO ECCO Every move you make
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: sasha maric
Copenhagen City Hall was illuminated by diamonds and pearls, sequins and smiles on Tuesday night, when festive guests from 25 countries gathered for the red carpet dinner to kick off Copenhagen Fashion Week and to celebrate Ecco’s annual charity award. In the words of CEO Dieter Kasprzak, the nominees were chosen for the same reason that Ecco keeps producing sensible shoes after 49 years in the business: always to leave small footprint in the world. Three themed runway shows kept the suspense for a few hours, treading the path of Ecco’s trademark combination of comfort, fashion and style. The key look for A/W 2012 was a black patent shoe “Sculpture 56” that echoed the trend of the 60s, featured on models clad in designer David Andersen’s Swingin’ London showpieces complete with Vidal Sassoon-bobs, followed by even more fashionable boots and shoes in orange fake fur and leather on models with Lady Gaga-like flying saucer-hats by costume designer Lars Emil. Befitting the arctic temperatures outside, the final theme was Nordic Breathing with clever takes on clogs and sensible boots with fur on models in tan leathers skirts and corsets by Zolo Design. Queen of Danish pop Aura Dione dazzled everyone with a live performance of her hit song “Geronimo”, before patroness of the Ecco Walk in Style Award HRH Crown Princess Mary took center stage and presented Dutch journalist Hadassah de Boer with this year’s award. She will donate the 33,500 euros to Refugee Foundation, helping underprivileged women and children in third world countries.
ten years of dansk
a decade of danish fashion EXHIBITION, 27 JANUARY - 4 MARCH 2012 DANISH DESIGN CENTRE, H. C. ANDERSENS BOULEVARD 27, COPENHAGEN
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yde yde
What women want words: Sille Henning photo: sasha maric
Yesterday’s YDE show was a lecture in perfection when the designer showed his vision for how women should dress. The award-winning Danish designer presented a beautiful and coherent collection playing on elegance and sophistication with a flirtatious undertone. The collection consisted of rich materials with beautiful silks and fine chiffons mixed with fur, leather, and sculpted knitwear. Slim dresses, pinched waistlines, peplums were featured alongside YDE’s signature bows. Delicate prints and a splash of jewel hues like bright emerald green were mixed with subtle colors like black, white and beige. There were elegant dresses in silk or leather with cut-out details in lace, gracious long gowns, and also baby doll-inspired dresses to complete an evening wardrobe. Previously, Ole Yde has focused his collections around elegant cocktail dresses and refined evening-wear, but for this fall season the designer presented several day looks as well. Key items were slim fitted pants, pencil skirts and elegant silk blouses, with a fur jacket casually draped around the shoulders. It was interested to see YDE venturing into a new part of womenswear — he definitely succeed in doing so.
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KAREN BY SIMONSEN KAREN BY SIMONSEN
Feminine raw
words: Lotte Freddie photo: sasha maric
The going is great for Karen Simonsen. She has hired several assistants, allowing her to concentrate on the design work rather than the running of things. The result is a sure and very together collection, “The Face of (Hu)Man The Face of Man” based on contrasts – “The power of color, the calmness of monocromes. Sobriety versus dynamism, classic against quirky.” It is all about tailoring, says Karen. That means fine, slim fitted jackets – useful at both day or night time - or loose, roomy silk blouses dipping in the back, worn with tapered, draped soft trousers. Or cape dresses where the sleeves become the back of the dress and dresses asymmetrically draped to a zip in one side. It also meant lovely knit, especially a grey/lilac striped cardigan worn unbuttoned in the back over a sun pleated short skirt. Just perfect, like the pretty print on chiffon as a blouse and a dress, the pleated black chiffon mini skirt and the black goth dress embroidered in fine gold threads with faces and spiders webs. A lot of monochrome black against white and greys or black contrasted by purple or powder. Like the final black jacket, short, fitted and tailored in front continuing into a long train in the back contrasted by a wide border in powder. A raw/feminine kind of dressing that will appeal to real women.
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CIFF Times of our lives
CIFF
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: sasha maric
No gimmicks, just garments. The spotlight was firmly set on the clothes, as CIFF at Bella Center wanted to reflect the times of our lives with a different trend show, giving buyers and press alike a more simple and realistic forecast of things to come. On a triangular catwalk, the editoriallooking models walked quietly in very wearable outfits, emphasizing the need for everyday looks that work. Fashion Exclusive, the new team behind the trend show, have a knack for colors. This was evident in a beautiful palette in all four themes that took us on a journey in time, from the romantic yet fluid, simple lines of the 20s and 50s, to the bolder, more daring 60s silhouette in rich fabrics and hues, to a sexy take on the 70s with black lace, metallic sequins and lurex and a jolt of orange silk and tangerine corduroy. Adding the timeless crave for all things natural in neutral Nordic colors, dramatic and soft like a Winter sky, the trend theme Wild Things could not have been more appropriate during these cold windswept days, with their layered look in interesting textures and combinations of wool, felt, leather and fur.
STINE LADEFOGED stine ladefoged
Gritty knits
words: Kristine Kaalund photo: sasha maric
Copenhagen’s beautiful former royal concert hall was the setting for Stine Ladefoged’s Wednesday afternoon runway show. With gloomy visuals and slow, heavy beats, the mood was set for the young designer’s A/W ‘12 collection. The main theme of the collection was knits, which have been key items in Ladefoged’s collections over the past seasons, since she graduated from The Royal Danish School of Design in 2009. Throughout the collection, big collars of merged knits covered the models, a detail echoing her previous offerings.
Voluminous shoulders, draped styles, knitted sweaters and cardigans were interpreted repeatedly throughout the collection. Strings of merged knits fell beyond the shoulders carelessly or ran along the edge of cardigans. The colors gave an autumn-like feel, and were mainly held in black, grey and white with blue, burgundy and mustard yellow as additions. A few of the styles had graphic patterns reminiscent of the prints seen in Alexander McQueen’s S/S ‘09 collection. Stine Ladefoged is great with details and has obvious talent. She keeps it simple, and has with her new collection continued her stylistic trademarks.
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WACKER HAUS WACKERHAUS
Cold embrace
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: sasha maric
Trine Wackerhausen is not afraid of the cold. She loves it. So much that she dedicated her whole collection to the Nordic cold landscape, naming it Glacierville. Her icy winter palette of grey, oatmeal, baby blue and opaque Blue Lagoon turquoise went together nicely, also in combination with darker autumnal colors like navy, deep purple, flaming burnt orange, coral and warm camel. She did not forsake her trademark structured silhouette, but it was even softer and more feminine, especially in the roomy jersey jumpsuits with quilted elbow pads and knitted cardigans and dresses. And of course she still had her little signature jacket, easy to wear as a cardigan. The collection’s wools in big coats and thick tweeds for skinny pants and poncho, the latter reminiscent of Chanel, also gave a modern casual look to stylish winter wear. Trine Wackerhausen is not afraid of luxury, either. To underline the use of exclusive materials — sandwashed silks, velvets, wools and cashmere, some of them with a hint of lurex — the models wore gilded showpiece gloves and earmuffs made of grid-shaped metal as a contrast to the soft, organic textures.
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SPON DIOGO SPON DIOGO Quest for perfection
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: sasha maric
Powerful amazons with hair in high tribal ponytails walked serenely and with dignity across the coveted catwalk in Copenhagen City Hall after Mia Spon and Rui Andersen Rodrigues Diogo received the prestigious Max Factor Talent Award for their continuously evolving work as designers.
Known as Spon Diogo, the couple have in a few years seduced first press and then consumers with their sharp silhouettes and uncompromising use of exclusive materials. Their quest for perfection has paid off with increasing awareness among fashion insiders. With the award, the spotlight will follow their every move into the future, and it was a sheer joy to see their clothes destined for that. From the start, the duo has stayed true to its 80s inspiration, but they have taken the style a step further, refining the silhouette and the details, the clothes looking more tailored but with new, softer details. Origami folded necklines, cutaway skirts – short in the front, longer in the back – double breasted jackets and commanding slim suits are among their trademarks. Most of the clothes were done in all kinds of black fabrics, from sensuous virgin wool to soft leather, but colors became them with solid separates in denim blue, purple, tomato red and burgundy.
C o p e n h ag e n Fa s h i o n Fa i r s , D e n m a r k p r e s e n t s C P H V i s i o n & T e R M i n a l-2 . aW 2 0 1 2
Terminal-2 CPH Vision
i n f o @ C P H V i s i o n . d k / W W W. C o P e n H ag e n fa s H i o n fa i R s . C o M
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DAVID ANDER SEN DAVID ANDERSEN Salander goes Studio 54
words: Rikke Dyrholm photo: sasha maric
David Andersen’s A/W ‘12 collection sported darkness and vampy glamour, channeling a look that could be described as contemporary crime heroine Lisbeth Salander goes Studio 54. The charismatic and dramatic theme looked coherent, unsurprisingly held in black and grey hues, twisted with sparkling silver sequins and the color blue. Targeting men and women, the items appeared both unisex-inspired and gracefully divided in male and female divisions, containing slim-fit suits for men, long dresses for women and zippered capes and loose pants for both. Details like zippers, drapes and geometric patchwork of different black materials gave the collection a touch of futurism. Underscoring the vampish theme was an obvious passion for asymmetric tailoring, while smoky-eyes, torn stockings and hood-like scarfs on models cemented the deal. The collection appeared consistent in theme and textures, mixing heavy materials like fur and wool with light see-through fabrics. Lisbeth Salander is undoubtedly a muse for many admirable designers, her powerful yet suffering appearance an inspiration that David Andersen intends to keep alive.
dansk daily THURSDAY FEBRUARY 2nd look of the day
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look of the day
by max factor words: Mikkel Hyldebrandt photo: SIMON B. MØRCH
Perfection unhinged Spon Diogo The Look It is an edgy couture look come undone. Even though the skin appears as if it is flawlessly illuminated from within, the sharp contrasts of the collections are easily spotted in the makeup as well. Like the eye shadow pulling a sharp line across the eye area while blending it in gorgeous tones of grey. The effect is a beautiful mix of structure and contrast, which blurs out the sharpness of the look, giving the couture edge a softer undertone, as if perfection has been unhinged just a tad. Which in itself is perfectly beautiful.
Key Products – all by Max Factor Xperience Weightless Foundation Raw silk no. 40 · Mastertouch Concealer Ivory no. 303 Earth Spirits Eye Shadow, Pale pebble no. 101 · Earth Spirits Eye Shadow, Onyx no. 110 Glide & Define Liquid Eyeliner, black · 2000 Calorie Mascara All products by Max Factor
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very important princesses
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DANSK exhibition launch words: magnus jorem photo: JAKOB MYDTSKOV
DANSK’s creative director Kim Grenaa sharing a bespectacled moment with pop legend Infernal-Paw.
Stine Goya and hubby want to make fashion ever younger, preferably bringing it to the fetal level.
Danish Fashion Industry’s queen bee Eva Kruse proposed a toast with Danish Design Centre spanking fresh director, Nille Juul-Sørensen.
Award-winning makeup artist Zenia Jæger, appearing with a friend, divides her time between partying hard in New York and caring for the world’s cutest kids in Denmark.
Model Agnete Hegelund and the fleece-wearing antifashion-activist-slash-model Philipp Messmann.
DANSK exhibition launch Fashion magazine DANSK, this publication’s mommy, turns ten this year, and is exhibiting images of the past decade’s Danish fashion at Danish Design Centre. Friday night, DANSK launched the exhibition for a party of couture-clad power players.
DANSK’s Kim Grenaa flanked by high-rollin’ model agents Jeppe and Jesper, both from Unique. Model Christel busy documenting the event for her popular Cover.dk blog.
Scoop-Bente and hubby with creative director Uffe Buchard of DANSK fashion fame.
An international power-fashionisto whose influence is felt in the worlds of high art and high fashion.
Fashion journalist Didder Rønlund, dame Eva Kruse and friend grabbed DANSK issues while supplies lasted.
S.O.A.P.’s Saseline Heidi was all up “in the air, feeling it everywhere” at meeting fellow musician Lars H.U.G.
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InWear words: magnus jorem photo: paw gissel
The superstar beyond all superstars Cath Danneskiold of Eastern Europe, Sweden and Denmark, outshone everyone!
Foxy socialites Nina Wedell-Wedellsborg of auction house Sotheby’s and Niels Martinsen, the eternally young founder of InWear, with equally fabulous sidekick.
Juicy dames from IC Companys.
Flashy rockstar Lasse Ziegler killed it for InWear.
Looking the part of a Danish Karen O, Freja Loeb gave the performance of a lifetime. Not everyone has as fine-tuned an appreciation of Nordic Minimalism as this trio!
InWear
On Wednesday afternoon, InWear gave lucky fans a preview of its A/W 12 collection, served up with tunes from Freja Loeb and her killer backup band.
Tom Steiffel-Kristensen, judge at Designer’s Nest, and secret male stripper. Alphadogg.
The “boyfriend” look goes Sherlock Holmes.
We’re certain this guy is a wealthy philanthropist whose Swiss bank account-powered investments are responsible for eradicating rare diseases in the third world.
Popstar-cum-fashion-event-regular Lina Rafn has a passion for pastels. Ballerina-cum-model Cecilie Lassen and Lene Borggaard, head designer at InWear.
Jack Dahl, mastermind graphics guy from Homework, and muse.
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Northern women in Chanel words: magnus jorem photo: paw gissel
Actress Mette Horn with daughter, the Suri Cruise of Scandinavia?
Chanel’s Mette Hayes joined Cosmeticeditor Nina Kluge and stylist Ingela Klemetz-Farago, one of the minds behind the new fashion tomb.
The eternally handsome Malkit Singh. Voice judges Steen Jørgensen and Sharin Foo flanking supermodel Helena Christensen.
Serious Chanel-fans enjoying a civilized drink.
Northern women in Chanel A new book showcasing Nordic and Baltic beauties clad in Chanel was celebrated Wednesday night at Designmuseum Danmark.
Photos from the book are rated X and scream of sex. The younger body double of Dancing with the Stars judge Jens Werner is all about Chanel and Northern beauties.
Lots of northern beauties, surely wearing Chanel.
The lesser-known Kardashian sisters Kampari and Kalifornia made an appearance. SCOOP-agent jeanette with model Nicolai. MTV blogger Maria Rye and accomplice plan to be featured in the book’s second edition.
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Acne store launch words: magnus jorem photo: paw gissel
Acne store launch
Swedish fashion sensation Acne opened a new store in Copenhagen on Wednesday with a flashy red light district theme.
These waiters just don’t think wrinkle-free is cute.
Like yin and yang, salt and pepper, Mary Kate and Ashley, these girls love dichotomy.
The waiters really had their hands full.
Thrilled to be in Dansk Daily, but worried that their style choices clash.
Cheerful Acne enthusiasts escaping the Copenhagen chill. These Acneistas adore going laboratory experiment-chic.
Ecco Walk in Style Award words: magnus jorem photo: ecco
Ecco Walk in St yle Award
A royal presence, a pop performance, and most of all some really tough design competition made Tuesday’s Ecco Walk in Style award show the place to be.
Award-winner Hadassah de Boer flanked by Mary, the future queen of Denmark, and Dieter, the current king of Ecco.
Pop-songstress Aura crashed the award stage in style. Everybody’s happy!
Ballsy. Crown princess Mary’s stage presence proved once again that she’s more graceful than peers Kate Middleton, Maxima and Mette Marit put together.
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show schedule / events
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show sChedule SHOW SCHEDULE THURSDAY 02.02.2012 BY INVITATION ONLY
15.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Cph V
BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN 10.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Cph V
20.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Cph V
Teko
DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN
16.00, Nimb, Bernstorffsgade 5, Cph V
VERONICA B. VALLENES 11.00, Nimb, Bernstorffsgade 5, Cph V
JEAN / PHILLIP
20:00 Post Danmark, Tietgensgade 37
SOULLAND
17.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Cph V
STINE GOYA 21.00, Vilhelm Lauritzen Terminalen, Vilhelm Lauritzens Alle 1, Kastrup
12.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Cph V
ANNE SOFIE MADSEN
DESIGNERS REMIX
18.00, Designmuseum Danmark, Amaliegade 29, Cph K
13.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Alle 22, Frederiksberg
TABERNACLE TWINS
BRUUNS BAZAAR
22.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Alle 22, Frederiksberg
R/H
19.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Alle 22, Frederiksberg
14.00, The Boiler, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Cph SV
MUNTHE PLUS SIMONSEN
23.00, National Museum, Frederiksholms Kanal 12, Cph K
CPH VISION / TERMINAL-2
ASGER JUEL LARSEN
events EVENTS
Mads Nørgaard AW12 presentation 09.00-10.00, Amagertorv 13, Copenhagen K Mads Nørgaard Store By invitation only
ROOM 402 Bedtime stories by Borcher 16.00-17.00, Jarmers Plads 3,Copenhagen V Hotel Fox By invitation only
ArtRebels present: GARDEN OF GOOD live sustainable printing and sewing studio 09.00-19.00, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg Gallery
Hotel Fox & Borcher present Charity Bar 17.00-21.00, Jarmers Plads 3, Copenhagen V Hotel Fox Open to the public
The Oat Meal 10.00-11.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V & Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV At the entrance of CPH Vision & Terminal-2 Fair visitors only
EGEKILDE 5 O’CLOCK 17.00-19.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V CPH Vision, By the Designers’ Nest Exhibition 17.00-18.00 & Egekilde Lounge 18.00-19.00 Fair visitors only
Sounds of Terminal-2 10.00-19.00, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV Terminal-2, Heineken Lounge Fair visitors only Designers’ Nest Exhibition 10.00-19.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V CPH Vision, Designers’ Nest Fair visitors only Amust Nail Polish Bar 10.00-19.00, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V CPH Vision, Egekilde lounge Fair visitors only Henrik Adamsen / Fashion Photography 11.00-23.00, Havnegade 44, Copenhagen K Custom House Open to the public Bubbles at Mulberry, Gucci & Burberry 14.00-20.00, Lufthavnsboulevarden 6, Kastrup Copenhagen Airport, Gucci, Mulberry & Burberry Airport stores Open to the public
HEINEKEN AFTER HOURS 17.00-19.00, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV Terminal-2, Heineken Lounge Fair visitors only 7 For All Mankind – Fashion Week Reception 18.00-21.00, Østergade DJ Carl Emil from 6 / Special Fashion week tasting menu in Custom House Bar & Grill 18.00-00.00, Havnegade 44, Copenhagen K Custom House Open to the public Ralph Lauren Black Label one year anniversary 19.00-22.00, Østergade 38, Copenhagen K Birger Christensen store By invitation only GANNI STORE RECEPTION 19.00-23.00, Store Regnegade 12, Copenhagen K Ganni Store By invitation only
Linda Farrow 20.00-23.00, Gothersgade 58, Copenhagen K It’s By invitation only Release NB Jewellery by Nicklas Bendtner 21.00-05.00, Fiolstræde 44, 3 floor, Copenhagen K Hosted by Lotko & Bøje Open to the public THE RECEPTION at Nimb – live performance by Outlandish 21.30-01.00, Bernstorffsgade 5, 1st floor, Copenhagen V Nimb By invitation only DAVID ANDERSEN fashion week reception 2012 21.30-23.00, Pilestræde 12A, Copenhagen K The Lot By invitation only GREEN ROCK NIGHT byLIAM GALLAGHER 22.00-05.00, Nørregade 41, Copenhagen K Zen By invitation only Freya Dalsjö Show 22.00-23.00, Enghavevej 82, Copenhagen V By invitation only Marc by Marc Jacobs presents: White Swans & Black Knights 23.00-05.00, Store Strandstræde 14, Copenhagen K Simons By invitation only Asger Juel Larsen & S-Magazine Party 23.00-05.00, Frederiksholms Kanal 12, Copenhagen K National Museum Open to the public DAVID ANDERSEN fashion week party 2012 23.00-04.00, Pilestræde 12A, Copenhagen K The Lot Open to the public
WE ARE CURRENTLY MAKING NOISE FOR APAIR — ANNE VEST — CARLSBERG — CHARLOTTE SPARRE — COLORFUL LICENCES — CPH FASHION POOL — DANSK FASHION AWARDS DAGMAR — DIMENSIONE DANZA — DK COMPANY — ELLE MACPHERSON — EMU AUSTRALIA — FRIIS LABEL FACTORY — HØGH INTERIØR KARTELL — LAURENCE AIRLINE — MBT — MOROCCANOIL — ROSEMUNDE — SELECTED BRANDS — SPANX — STRENESSE — V AVE SHOE REPAIR A LEADING FASHION & LIFESTYLE COMMUNICATION AGENCY
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