SPRING SUMMER 2013
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FRIDAY AUGUST 10TH
TREND
gender-bender chic
SPOT
LOOK OF THE DAY
A more romantic, heroic Jean//Phillip
MAX FACTOR LOOK OF THE DAY BY MALENE BIRGER
FEATURE
REVIEWS
Is shopping going out of style?
Bruuns Bazaar · Noa Noa · Stine Goya Peter Jensen · DESIGNERS REMIX
COVER PHOTO DESIGNERS REMIX BY SIMON B. MØRCH
dansk daily FRIDAY august 10th
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EDITORIAL
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Gender-bender chic editorial
Iben Albinus Sabroe EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Could it have been the coldest Danish summer in years that tempted designers to present their new spring/summer collections with a surprisingly wide variety of knits, quilted fabrics and relatively dark colors, like blue, burgundy and black? Or is it a sign of the times, in which collections need to last longer, and seasonal trends give way to a more classic cool? In any case, it’s been a showcase of styles and fabrics to warm the hearts of any fashionista. The second day of Copenhagen Fashion Week was a celebration of solid collections by internationally acclaimed brands like Bruuns Bazaar (soft, fitting, boxy silhouettes) and By
Malene Birger (strong colors and refined prints). Meanwhile, more artistically idiosyncratic designers Baum und Pferdgarten and Stine Goya reclaimed their positions as Danish fashion’s quirky-cool queens. The former with a colorful sporty minimalism. The latter with a timeless, seductive and kaleidoscopically colored collection, inspired by the elusive Harlequin character, a symbol of unrestrained passion. And speaking of passion. While French Connection and Edith & Ella showed a shared veneration for a Mad Men-esque 1950s and early 1960s style, with ladylike charms, others directed attention toward a time
when men and women began sharing not only ideas about equal rights, but their clothes as well. Peter Jensen’s gender-bender experiments have resulted in a super chic reworking of young Mick Jagger’s androgynous beauty. His collection showed great promise for a new gender-bender trend with ultra stylish women in menswear and gorgeous guys in soft pink suits. Similarly, Jean//phillip had Dansk Daily’s Elsebeth Mouritzen longing for his romantic menswear, because however masculine his style was, the fit would suit a woman just beautifully, as well. I for one can’t wait to go hunting for summer clothes — in the men’s department.
CONTRIBUTORS PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Iben Albinus Sabroe CREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT COORDINATOR Rozanna Fritz ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo, Kasper Fjederholt, Mikkel M. Andersen · IRONFLAG SUB-EDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson BEAUTY EDITOR Bea Fagerholt EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Rikke Charlotte Larsen
WRITERS Carla Christine Bruus Strube, Elsebeth Mouritzen Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie Rikke Dyrholm, Sille Henning PHOTOGRAPHERS Simon B. Mørch, Mathilde Schmidt Maiken Høst Hansen, Copenhagen Fashion Week Fashionforum.dk Naja Helene Hertzum, Moussa Mchangama Monica Senker Holbech Sales Representative Jens Løkke DISTRIBUTION Cath Møss, Charlotte Mørch, Julie Christine Kühne PRINT Berlingske Avistryk
BY MALENE BIRGER SHOWROOM RAHBEKS ALLÉ 21 FREDERIKSBERG - 8-11 AUGUST 2012 BYMALENEBIRGER.COM
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dansk daily FRIDAY august 10th
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NEWS
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She’s back
News provided by Fashionforum.dk
Who doesn’t remember the bohemian girl strolling down the streets of Copenhagen — the romantic, feminine one who was always so well dressed in her embroidered lace outfit? After a quiet period, Noa Noa is back in the calendar of Copenhagen Fashion Week. With the collection Noa Noa Atelier, they have added several new and exciting silhouettes and materials. Its inspiration comes from the Danish painter Hammershøi, transferred into specially made prints on sculptural dresses and scarfs. www.noanoa.com
Jack & Jon e s i n t r o d u c i n g Low Im p a c t De n i m By means of laser and ozone, Danish jeans brand Jack & Jones has reduced its water usage by 25 million liters. One tenth of the collection has been stamped Low Impact, and the future holds even more in the ways of sustainability – but only as long as the design remains Jack & Jones-esque: “We need to make the right product for the Low Impact Denim line. It won’t make any difference if the products we launch are not accepted,” says Kenneth Bennetzen, buyer at Jack & Jones.
E XECUTI V E EDITOR Anne l ov es V UITTON & COPPO LA As a fan of the film director, I was bound to be mesmerised by this stunning bag, the result of a cooperation between Louis Vuitton and Sofia Coppola. It’s been on my wishlist for quite some time...
Sp e n d a w e e k w i t h Ma r i ly n She would have been 86 today if she hadn’t accidentally died of a sleeping pill overdose in August 1962. Fortunately, Marilyn Monroe is still with us thanks to her films, and to the critically acclaimed picture My Week With Marilyn, which is out on DVD this week. It tells the story of her stay in England shooting the comedy The Prince and the Showgirl with Sir Laurence Oliver, and sees Michelle Williams in a stunning performance as the icon. For a chance to win the DVD, just tell us which Burberry model plays Marilyn’s gorgeous love interest in the film. info@danskdaily.dk
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FRIDAY august 10th dansk daily NEWS
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C reative editor Rozan n a l o v e s THE AW 2012 COLLECTION FROM BY MALENE BIR G ER www.bymalenebirger.com
Inside Co p e n h a ge n Nikolaj Hübbe. Having worked as a solo dancer at The New York City Ballet for years, the head of the Royal Danish Ballet and Denmark’s hottest dancer Nikolaj Hübbe has lately been rediscovering Copenhagen. Where do you go for a unique shopping experience in Copenhagen? The marketplace at Israels Plads. Go there for delicious specialties. Where’s the best place to eat dinner in Copenhagen? Restaurant Geist at Kongens Nytorv. Bo Bech’s simple dishes pay attention to every little ingredient. Very tasteful. Where is you favorite spot in the city? The parks of Copenhagen. King’s Garden, H.C. Ørsted’s Park, The Botanical Gardens are
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all green oases where I love to hang out on a hot summer’s day.
dansk daily FRIDAY august 10th NEWS
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EDITOR ’ S PICK O F THE DAY Stine Goya’s color palette offers a glamorous edge in her new collection, which also revisited
Ta k e a lo o k at the water
one of the designer’s old trademarks, the chic hand mirror, reproduced in tiny fragments on
In a wonderful showroom on Vesterbro, illustrator Karen Segal in-
an oversized tee.
vites everybody inside to have a look at her latest creations. Karen Segal is on a mission to do things differently, and is ready to show her mix of Marcel Duchamp’s readymade and Andy Warhol’s pop art. The exhibition When was the last time you looked at the water? explores people and animals captured in elements that constitute our everyday lives. Her inspiration comes from a pillar in the harbor of Aarhus. Here, Karen Segal saw the words of the exhibition title written in capital letters, almost erased by the water, but still so clear that they sparked the feelings that are the center of her latest project. Vess Vesterbro Monday 16.00-21.00, Tuesday-Friday 14-19 & Saturday 12-18 www.karensegall.com
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FRIDAY august 10th dansk daily NEWS
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Sustainable fashion without the beige flax
Illustration by Rikke Jørgensen
Remember to visit Designmuseum Danmark during Copenhagen Fashion Week – here, Danish Fashion Institute and the Nordic Initiative Clean and Ethical (NICE) invite you to an exhibition of all the best Nordic designers have to offer in the sustainable department. It features designs by Susanne Rützou, Baum und Pferdgarten and many others, and gives you a closer look at Danish designer David Andersen’s take on Zero-Waste production. Designmuseum Danmark, Bredgade 68, Copenhagen K.
Fas h i o n a b le Ma d Me n Mad Men mania is the title of a new book that sets out to explain the cultural phenomenon that addresses universal themes, News provided by Fashionforum.dk
displays the elegant aesthetics of a vintage Vogue, and has been called the sexiest show on television. Written by Iben Albinus, who in 2010 published a critically acclaimed book on the influence of Sex and the City, the book includes a chapter on fashion
B a g i t u p! Fashion darling Stine Goya has joined forces with one of Danish fashion’s most established accessories brands Adax. The result? A
as storytelling and the philosophies of Mad Men’s costume designer Janie Bryant, celebrated for her swanky 1960s outfits. Mad Men mania is out on september 12, the same day as Mad Men’s season 5 premieres on Danish TV. www.sabroeandsabroe.com
collection of exquisite leather bags in an array of beautiful colors. The extensive collection of bags, including both totes, clutches, laptop covers and weekend bags, will be available in selected stores in August. www.adax.dk
WE ARE SL AV ES F OR SNEAKS The avantgarde provocateur Jeremy Scott became a slave of American censorship when he released these sneaks that too closely resemble slave ankle chains, but we like to think of them as Hollywood socks.
dansk daily FRIDAY august 10th
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NEWS
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An autumn splash
Splashy colors will hit us this autumn, providing a definite antidote for winter depressions, as Monki’s new collection makes the dark period happier than ever. At Dansk Daily, we’re thrilled about this intensely hued universe, its sugar-coated pastel colors with heaps of embellishments and the way the woven chiffons flow between the jerseys and leather.
ZIP ZIP THE ITA L IAN WAY
The amazing autumn/winter 2012 campaign pictures have been captured by photographer Ruvan Wijesooriya.
Next to a gondola ride, enjoying a chilled Spritzer on Saint Mark’s Square is synonymous with a true Venetian adventure. This summer, though, you won’t need to venture all the way to the South of Europe to enjoy the famous Italian drink, which is Venice’s signature cocktail. The orange liquor Aperol, the defining ingredient in a Sprizer made from oranges and herbs since 1919, is now available in Danish supermarkets. Add three parts sparkling wine to two parts Aperol and give it a quick shot of bubbly water, and there’s your short cut to Venice.
When the shoe fits Co-creation is the new black, and by November 1, there’ll be a new shoe collection in stores to prove it — a design collaboration between David Andersen and Bianco. The Danish designer, who has seen his designs travel to 12 European countries since he launched his first collection in 2007, is a perfect match for the popular Danish shoe brand. Known for merging wearability, price and style, Bianco adds an extravagant twist with David Andersen’s luxurious sartorial work in an all-black shoe collection. www.bianco.dk – www.davidandersen.dk
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www.citroen.dk
NYT KØRETØJ? En unik bil fortjener en unik introduktion. Derfor blev Citroën DS5 i Danmark lanceret med en designkonkurrence for fem nyskabende danske tøjdesignere. Konkurrencen hed Design5, og udfordringen var at designe et sæt tøj, der matcher bilens markante formsprog og interiør. At Citroën DS5 er en inspirerende bil, fremgik tydeligt af de fem kreationer på cat- og carwalken i det store finaleshow, hvor Vibe Lundemark med mærket “Tabernacle Twins” vandt. Citroën Danmark siger stor tak til de deltagende tøjdesignere og alle, der var med til at gøre danmarkspremieren på Citroën DS5 til en enestående begivenhed.
SE MERE OM DESIGN5-KONKURRENCEN, BOOK EN PRØVETUR OG VIND EN IPAD PÅ BLOG.DS5.DK Citroën DS5 og de fem kreationer kan ses i VISION, Lokomotivværkstedet, Otto Busses Vej 5A, 2450 Kbh. SV i forbindelse med Copenhagen Fashion Week.
CRÉATIVE TECHNOLOGIE
SPON DIOGO
BIBI GHOST
TABERNACLE TWINS
ANNE SOFIE MADSEN
WACKERHAUS
dansk daily FRIDAY august 10th FEATURE
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Has shopping gone out of st yle? words: Iben albinus sabroe
The economic crisis is fashion’s darkest trend, and a thousand stores in Denmark are in danger of closing within the next couple of years. But is it all bad? Or could a new creativity be rising from the financial rubble?
Nevertheless, he says, the solution for the more creative, smaller brands is to conquer The numbers are dizzying when put this way. No less than a thousand stores could very well be closing within the next year or two, the fashion industry in Denmark now predicts. Also, a new estimate from Dansk Fashion and Textile measured a small decrease in growth of revenue, compared to last year. The reasons are manifold, explains head of exports Michael Hillmose, but overall, there is no reason to cry wolf, he says: ”It is of course unfortunate that we may see a lot of stores close, because the Danish fashion world has always benefited from a tightly knit relation between the smaller shops and the middle-sized brands, who tend to experiment more creatively than the financially bigger brands and chain stores.” His biggest concern is that there will be less room for the more creative forces in Danish fashion, with chain stores taking over business in the provincial areas. However, one of the reasons for the complicated situations many stores find themselves in is that consumers not only tend to hold back when it comes to shopping, they also increasingly buy their clothes online.
the foreign markets: ”The answer is to go global.”
Stockholm and Berlin, but also in Asian countries like Japan and South Korea. ”The way I see it, there is generally a hunger for originality,” says creative director at Dansk Fashion and Textile As Øland.
Nevertheless, he says, the solution for the more creative, smaller brands is to conquer the foreign markets: ”The answer is to go global.” As for the difficult situation facing stores at present, senior manager at the financial advisory Deloitte Morten Steinmetz has a few ideas on how to navigate through the current crisis. “First of all, it is really important to join in on the Internet market. But it’s alpha and omega that you spend the necessary resources on a professional webshop. Just brushing up on your webpage won’t do the trick,” he says. “On the other hand, if you do it well, there’s good business awaiting you on the web.”
”Internet sales may substitute part of the sales, but I think we will witness a new trend in that internet stores will need physical locations in order to display their clothes. In this way, stores could increasingly serve as showrooms for marketing purposes,” says Michael Hillmose, mentioning a similar recent initiative made by Amazon.com, which has opened showrooms in order for customers to look more closely at their products. Also, he regrets that chain stores in large parts are taking over fashion sales:
Another solution is to transform your shop into a concept store. A concept store needs to be located where people shop, but if you do choose a central, busy location, you’ll find that customers are attracted to this kind of shopping, where they can get a special experience. A store like NORR in Copenhagen has made a good deal out of connecting with a Joe & the Juice bar,” says Morten Steinmetz. Times may be tough for business, but the biggest threat doesn’t target the more creative brands, if you ask Women’s Wear Daily, who recently blamed the conservatism of big brands for the crisis. People are bored when shopping, so why should they? sounded their rationale.
”Whether you walk into a small town in Denmark or Spain, you’ll see the same chain stores with signs for Jack & Jones and Vero Moda.”
As a matter of fact, Danish designer brands such as By Malene Birger and Charlotte Sparre are doing very well abroad, in both bigger European cities like
”Stores may be closing, but when it comes to creative forces in Danish fashion, I find no reason to complain. Look at new names like Anne Sofie Madsen, Vibe Johansen for Tabernacle Twins and Astrid Andersen, who creates men’s wear. Young designers disregard the financial crisis with uncompromising talent and colorful, crazy designs. I think that’s great and I think it’s fair to see it as reaction to the safe bets that have dominated designs of the past years of crisis.” To As Øland, a high street brand like H&M’s COS is a good sign, because it proves that even commercial players find it in their hearts to be creative. ”COS has really succeeded in making good quality for little money. And it seems to me that the high street brands these years are putting less emphasis on copying high fashion brands, that they’re more interested in creating a look and style for themselves. At Dansk Fashion and Textile we have an extensive trend library, and we see more and more representatives from high street brands curious to consult it.” She compares the situation of fashion stores with the real estate market. ”For a period of time, it seemed that everybody could sell anything. What we see now are the consequences of that. The good thing, however, is that consumers have become more fashionconscious. The fact that fashion brands have to live up to that is not a bad thing.”
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“ To A s Ø land, a high street brand li ke H& M’s COS is a good sign, because it proves that even commercial players find it in their hearts to be creative.”
ILLUSTRATION: KAREN SEGAL
FRIDAY august 10th dansk daily FEATURE
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HUBERT Easy does it
words: Moussa Mchangama photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
For the last show of Wednesday night, designer Rikke Hubert showed her feminine and highly body-con collection at a rooftop terrace in Copenhagen’s meatpacking district. Treading a floor made of synthetic grass, not the most suitable underlay for wearing heels, the models all wore tennis caps embellished with glittering stones and sequins, conveying a fashionable sportiness. The collection itself was feminine and contrasted very tight looks with loose, sheer fabrics. The tight pieces were an underlying stylistic feature
seen in high-waisted hot-pants, cycling shorts and a dark red set that resembled a high-fashion bikini. Fine dresses with a twirling print and dresses and tops with cut-outs on the neckline made up the rest, with a few pieces featuring horse hair as wildcards. The color palette featured the ever-happening black and white, a light dusty nude, and a bit of mint on a fine pair of printed leggings. A dark blue coat and a red shirt-dress stood out beautifully in a collection that was short, easy and very light.
pilgrim.dk / find nearest retailer at pilgrim.dk/stores
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STINE GOYA
Queen of color Danish fashion favorite Stine Goya transformed her poetic and feminine design into the universe of the circus yesterday, when she showed her new collection La Parade Merveilleuse at the Gallery venue. The makeup took its cues from clowns, with half- and full face-masks in solid and metallic eye shadows done exquisitely by award-winning makeup artist Zenia Jaeger; yet the show was a serious affair, as models paraded the clothes quietly on the catwalk through wooden harlequin frames with light bulbs, evoking the atmosphere of a traveling menagerie.
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Goya has long been hailed as the queen of colors. She mixes her palette of soft and juicy solids with a firm hand, in cool combinations of turquoise, ivory and grey. and elegant in ochre, soft rose and caramel. A sure winner was the saturated pink angora cardigan with harlequin pattern over raspberry tight jeans and a coral top, and the edgy grey and black anorak with matching leggings. She wanted to express the feeling of time standing still, just like a visit to the circus with dar-
ing acrobats might, and she came true in more way than one. She repeated some of her signature styles, especially her loose, long and short jumpsuits and soft drop-crotch pants, this time in everything from delicate prints to glittering sequins with oversize tops. She also surprised with a dreamier, more kaleidoscopic use of patterns. The collection struck a delicate balance between quirky and comfortable, and she came home safe.
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GULD KNAPPEN A golden accolade
Yesterday, the fashion weekly Alt for Damerne presented their yearly award show for the 28th time at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The award show consists of two different awards — Guldknappen (The Golden Button, ed.), which awards an established designer who has built a sustainable commercial success, and Sølvtråden (The Silver Thread, ed.), which recognizes an up-andcoming designer with great potential.
This year, the winner of Guldknappen was Baum und Pferdgarten, which also won the prize back in 2000. This time, they received the award for consistently presenting refined and uncompromising yet accessible collections. Meanwhile, Sølvtråden was awarded the young label Ganni to recognize that the two designers behind the brand, Katrine Green and Ditte Reffstrup, have
words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
in a short time been able to create a fashion brand that offers easy wardrobe hits season after season.
Baum und Pferdgarten: Sporty minimalism Baum und Pferdgarten’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection was minimalistic with boldly mixed, vibrant colors; the collection was also more simplistic that previous offerings. The silhouettes were clean with strong sporty references, from padded details, a hooded cardigan, the tracksuits’ pant-panels, to visible zippers and a cap. There were narrow ¾ pants teamed with voluminous tops, and the omnipresent smock dress. Simple shapes were sculptured with dimensional quilting and sharp architectural cuts were softened with cocoonish silhouettes. The colorful block combinations in bright or-
BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
GANNI
ange, raspberry, bordeaux, electric blue, and mustard were vivid and inspiring, and true to the brand’s signature palette. Ganni: Californication The new collection by Ganni was easy, wearable and very alluring, portraying the allAmerican girl. From the bubble gum pink peplum top with a matching skirt that opened the show, and the soft and intriguing green palm print on the same pink background, to the light blue mini shorts teamed with a denim inspired suede shirt, the big floral print mixed with a Bordeaux biker jacket to the glittering cap — and the very desirable Western-inspired boots in Bordeaux and glittering silver — the collection left you desiring to breeze through life.
matinique.com
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NOA NOA
LACED ROMANCE
words: Carla Christine Bruus Strube photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
After a five-year break, Noa Noa is back in the show calendar to make a statement of a new, rougher style, while presenting the sub-line Noa Noa Atelier — introducing more sculptural silhouettes and new materials like silk and leather. The overall intention is to reclaim the popularity that surrounded the brand in the 1980s.
With competent help from the Danish style fairies Femmes Regional and the industrial surroundings of The Vision’s closed train station, Noa Noa dove into their romantic, dreamy universe. It started out well. A black broderie anglaise shirt dress with good width, slim jersey pants with a rough upper lining, a two-toned beige cardigan that surprised with a black-and-white-dotted back and a
pair of loose-fitted suede trousers. Not innovative, but well-made. Pairing the looks with black men’s shoes added a dash of contemporary cool to the laced and loose romance. With vast amounts of beige and creamy white, the pastel mint-colored chiffon dress and ditto set with a short, quilted jacket was both welcome and a sweet, simple monochrome break in the line of lace inserts and faded flowery prints. The Atelier-items definitely sharpened the bohemian, romantic summer cottage DNA of Noa Noa, and without revolutionizing the whole shebang, they are definitely helpful in the strategic aim of regaining fashionable territory.
WHIITE Concept Store
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Kronprinsensgade 7
1114 Copenhagen K
Contact P: +45 55 56 40 75
whiite@whiite.com
8/7/2012 3:28:32 PM
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ANNE SOFIE MADSEN Sporty warrior goes punk
Anne Sofie Madsen is one of Danish fashion’s most interesting talents, and at her show yesterday, she proved why. The attitude of her Spring Summer 2013 collection was dramatic: Strong yet distant with a clear punk statement and references to this season’s sporty tendencies, coupled with the Anne Sofie Madsen warrior princess feel.
Playing with contrasts and materials, the collection forged a look of toughness mixed with fragility in each design. Materials like leather were applied to a fine mesh base, cut-out rubber details looked almost feather-like when used on skirts, and leather had been carved and shaped into shells and bones. There were built-up collars with unconventional and daring
words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
patterns, and Swarovski crystals were used as studs, even spikes, giving the collection a punk-inspired look. The fabrics were dyed by hand, making them appear almost sunbleached, like fainted posters. Among the sportier features was the use of plenty of pleated short skirts, braided shoe laces adapted from their original purpose to be used as placements on the garments, hooded items and short cylinder pants. Handdrawn illustrations had been printed digitally on silk, adding femininity to an otherwise tough collection. Anne Sofie Madsen is def initely going somewhere in the designer world, and it will be exciting to see if she can continue to renew and evolve her already- established brand DNA.
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Edith & Ella
Sweet smell of success Line Markvardsen is doing good. Her eight-year-old label Edith & Ella, named after her two grandmothers, goes down well with both Danish and foreign customers, who appreciate her very feminine, girly style. Sweet without being sugary. This kind of look is difficult to execute, but was expressed exactly right in Line’s summer 2013 collection Manège de Fantaisie — wearable, pretty dresses, blouses, skirts and cardigans held in a color scheme of turquoise, apricot, bright orange, green and pale blue accentuated with a little beige. Pleated skirts danced to silken blouses or short mohair cardigans, and white lace granny collars gave a quaint twist to lovely stitched pleated silk dresses with puffed sleeves. Stripes came as three wide bands of apricot, yellow and pale blue in deep pleated skirts, or in a navy/
words: LOTTE FREDDIE photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
orange/white knitted sweater matched with a full rose printed skirt. A courageous mix that worked — exactly how one wants to look next summer. This delightful rose print came in quite wonderfully, swinging full ‘50s Mad Men dresses, as if tailor-made for January Jones — just as the blue shift dress would be perfect on Christina Hendricks in the same popular TV series. Quite different in mood was a slender, strong orange tailored dress with brass buttons that brought Yves Saint Laurent to mind. Likewise, a simple orange and white loose silk dress bore a strong Courrèges resemblance. A good, diverse young collection full of attractive possibilities for a wide audience.
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JEAN// PHILLIP
New romantic hero
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Jean Phillip: Please make womenswear some time in the near future!
Not that his men’s collection is feminine, but its shapes and silhouettes are so appealing that they could also be worn by women who like a soft edge to their black dressing. The Danish designer is clearly inspired by Japanese and Belgian fashion aesthetics. His Spring/Summer collection had a definite modern international air, and no wonder his next stop in men’s fashion weeks in Paris. Showing here in Copenhagen took our local fashion week up a notch. Slim and fit male models, some of them resembling his designer colleague Olivier Theyskens with slick long hair, wore his 99 percent black collection (the last one percent was
charcoal) with ease and masculinity, and left the impression that the clothes aim at giving courageous, perhaps artistic men another option for less formal outfits. The suits in silks and linens with shapely, but unstructured jackets, soft slim trousers and dropcrotch shorts were welcomingly different. He layered short lambskin jackets over tank tops or long tunics, and swept us away with shawl collar wrap-shirts and long, bathrobe-style cardigans. His take on leisurewear with hooded, asymmetrically zippered sweat jackets gave the models plenty of opportunity to flex their muscles, as he cut them sleeveless. It takes a real man to pull of this look — but the reward is to look like no one else.
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Peter Jensen
Humor and originality Peter Jensen is a playboy — in the word’s literal meaning: a boy who plays. Like a child, he creates stories for each collection, inspired by different muses – like disgraced ice rink queen Tonya Harding or his aunt Jytte, who during a period lived in Greenland. For that particular collection, Peter Jensen used Greenland’s beautiful ethnic patterns as inspiration, but instead of being pleased and perhaps making use of this international and unusual exposure, the Greenlandic people got very angry and considered the design insulting.
This surely will not happen with the new resort collection, in which a young, 1960s Mick Jagger is Jensen’s muse for summer 2013. Jagger’s androgyny is translated into menswear for both boys and girls.
words: Lotte Freddie photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Jensen’s mix of separates works well in graphic checks in green or blue in a chiffon shirt and cotton jeans for the girls, or in short box coats for both sexes. Rose/white Brigitte Bardot checks look really great, both as a feminine look and as a cool men’s version. The men’s line, maybe the most interestingly new, includes shorts suits in delicious milkman’s pale blue stripes or in seersucker blue/ white checks — large in the shorts, small in the jacket, but piped with the larger pattern. A pink velour men’s suit isn’t the least bit feminine, and would accompany the simple high-waist sleeveless shift dresses that the Mick-girl will sashay around town next summer.
Visit us at VISION LokomotivvĂŚrkstedet stand L352 9 -11 august 2012
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BRUUNS BAZAAR
Clean elegance
words: Carla Christine Bruus Strube photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
There’s a certain elegant, whimsical atmosphere in the courtyard of Bruuns Bazaar’s HQ, which has become their permanent show venue, and which revealed a solid crowd of fashionistas and celebrities yesterday.
Since former COS-designer Rebecca Bay made her entrance as chief designer, her signature styles have become the new classics of Bruuns Bazaar: Collarless shirts or shirts with minimal collar, rounded shoulders and boxy silhouettes. It’s beautifully clean and minimalistic, softened by a few tightly fitted 50s-inspired dresses and snug knitwear. The ladies, led on by Nadia Bender, sported the boxy yet fitted shirts, t-shirts, dresses and coats with little to no detailing, except for golden zip-
pers and squared chest pockets in crisp cotton and papery poplin. The men, on the other hand, were secretively sexy in no-nonsense knitwear and great fitted suits with super fine tailored details like the discrete inserts in bright yellow. Apart from a few items in black, the recurring colors were light, with white, variations of beige and khaki, light blue and grey, which matched the minimal look, as well as 50s references and both spacy and sporty accents also indicated in the choice of materials. The “new” look of Bruuns Bazaar is really hard not to like — the men’s collection in particular provided a highlight.
A mAgert orv 10 · 1160 K ø b en h Av n K · tel ef on 33 14 19 41 · w w w. i l l u m s bo l i g hu s . d K mAndAg – torsdAg 10 – 18 · fredAg 10 – 19 · lørdAg 10 – 18
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SHOWS
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BY MALENE BIRGER Color me up
words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
“The dreams and goals I have must be achieved — I’m not a dreamer — dreams have to be fulfilled,” stated Malene Birger before her show last night. And when the designer entitled her Spring/Summer 2013 collection The Celebration, she meant business. With vibrant colors in pink, orange, and yellow, smiling models with swaying ponytails and big blown-up colorful prints, yesterday’s By Malene Birger show was indeed quite the feast. The show was a trip down memory lane, revisiting many of the classic By Malene Birger styles from previous seasons. There were sophisticated
pencil skirts with feminine blouses, sexy dresses, cropped pants and elegant jackets. See-through materials were embellished with glittering stones, and the prints were intriguing, whether as flowery watercolor prints or big blown-up paisley prints. There were slinky silhouettes and billowing fabrics that showed a broad diversity in the collection. All in all, Birger’s new offering was a feminine fifties-inspired collection that emphasized the designer’s strong take on ladylike womenswear, with many soon-to-be-favorite wardrobe items. A surprisingly colorful By Malene Birger collection that underlined the designer’s cheerful agenda.
Autumn / Winter 2012 / 2013 Addicted to jewellery
www.K-Z.dk
Medina
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French Connection Don Draper’s affections
French Connection’s show Thursday at Gallery may have parted the waters — at least between those in the audience who have seen the TV show Mad Men, and those who are going to see it. The collection — aiming at both genders — revealed a universe that some may define as post-war American retro elegance, while others may think of the Drapers on summer vacation. Nods to the American hit series Mad Men — which displays a somewhat caricatured late 50s and 60s
words: RIKKE DYRHOLM photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
style — could be seen in the truly eclectic and exotic assortment for women, featuring silhouettes like a 50s-style hourglass form and overknee tulip skirts, combined with chic tailored pieces, providing both effortless workwear style solutions and sensual outfits for summer holidays and city breaks. A confidently diverse color palette of black and white hues, pastels and candy shades, contrasting with vibrant hues of tropical coral and aquatic blue, worked refreshingly and gave the impression of Mad Men’s retro glamor.
The classic American style for the Messrs, with traditional tailoring and simple silhouettes in cargo shorts, chinos, slim-fitting jackets and classic pants with casual folded bottoms, conjured up a casual Don Draper, all in muted colors and deep rustics like burgundy, navy and dark orange, underscoring the theme with a bend of refined British influence. French Connection is generally known for chic basic wear with a twist; this collection, however, offered an invigorating rethinking that added even greater appeal and volume.
FRIIS & COMPANY GALLERY / STAND 241 FRIIS-CO.DK
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ODEUR Anonymousl y cool
words: Rikke Dyrholm photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Swedish fashion label ODEUR’s presentation at Gallery unveiled a reflective take on the human appearance. Targeting both genders, the collection’s individual styles bore the imprint of a fondness for natural plainness in the area of gender bending. With a prevailing predilection for simplicity and downplayed, almost anonymous, forms and silhouettes, ODEUR’S summer contribution appeared casual and boyish in style. With a severe focus on black and white hues, only interrupted by a deep red, the clean and plain aesthetic was underscored by a rigorous isolation of colors. Assembling lush, lightweight materials like wool, sleek cashmeres, ultra-light sheer cottons and
technical fabrics, contrasting with matte or shiny textural effects, the image communicated a typical Swedish feel in its cold charm. The strict color scheme seemed natural in the context of the tailoring’s sharp and dramatic style — yet a loose casual fit for both genders prevailed, with deconstructed jackets, tailored drop-crotch shorts, cropped, sleeveless blazers, crafted shirts, gauzy dresses and lightly flowing jerseys. The Nordic grasp of plainness — with a downplayed drama — balanced just fine; however, outstanding impressions and special features came a bit short. ODEUR presented a fine collection of casual gender-bending dailywear for adherents of simplicity.
To view the collection SS13 please visit us at the below fairs or contact one of our agents:
White, Milano 22nd – 24th of September 2012 Premiere Classe, Jardin de Tuileries, Paris 28th of September – 1st of October 2012 Belgium: Denmark: Germany: Italy (south): Netherlands: Norway: Worldwide:
Studio C +32 2 363 99 89 Dorte Boe +45 22928607 Modeagentur Nikolic +49 211 454 1580 Spazio F +39 081 19561921 or +39 392 9589290 Coster Agenturen +31 650 521378 Holtex +47 90968266 Charlotte Sparre +45 45894040
www.charlottesparre.com
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DESIGNERS REMIX Mixed identity
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
The grey lightweight wool suit is often synonymous with menswear, but Charlotte Eskildsen cut two shades of grey into sexy fitted jackets for women with matching shorts and pants for the opening of her show, inspired by the gendersubverting film Boys Don’t Cry. Throughout the wearable collection, she played with the theme of mixed identity. One moment was utterly feminine, with eyelet tops or skirts teamed with sweatshirts and shorts, the little “black” dress in crisp white and lace layered on soft wool knit. The next it was sharp and masculine in well cut blazers and trashed biker jackets.
Masculine met feminine in the cool styling of a matte sequined jacket over a lace top and printed shorts from a selection of prism patterned lean shirts and trousers. It continued in a medley of sportswear with a focus on trousers inspired by pants with elasticized waists and contrasting side panels in exclusive fabrics. Gone were the strict origami-designed dresses of past collections; instead we saw an array of softer, billowing cotton frocks in sherbet pink, pistachio and lime green topped with white blazers. It’s all about the mix.
AAGAARD byaagaard.com
A WORLD OF
JEWELLERY AUTUMN / WINTER 2012
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Although he brought his wife along, Pilou Asbæk couldn’t help but step into character as political maverick Kasper Juul. Flanking Nikki Welsh are the Danish pop duo Nik & Jay, who just returned from a decades-long car ride cruising down Copenhagen’s HC Andersen’s Boulevard, on which they burned a hell of a lot of fuel.
As an actress of the highest caliber, you never really know what Laura Christensen thinks of the new skirt you just purchased.
The label’s founder Theis Bruun gives his characteristically flirty wink.
Alt for Damerne’s fashion power duo Camilla Frank and Line Hindsgaul share a bruuns moment.
Eurowoman’s Anne Lose comfortably seated next to Kopenhagen Fur’s Michael Holm.
Bruuns Bazaar front row
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken HØST Hansen
Bruuns Bazaar front row
A staple of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s runway show schedule, Bruuns Bazaar attracted a crowd of pretty faces and power players to the flagship store’s courtyard.
Unique model and Cover-blogger Christel W is a sucker for clever reinventions of wardrobe classics.
LOVE Magazine wünderboy Anders S Thomsen seated comfortably close to St. Patrick’s Day-inspired friend. ELLE’s main women Mie and Cecilie have a statement for you: This summer is all about off-white tenderness contrasted with murderously powerful shades.
Sporting identical aviators, Danish fashion’s hardest hitting fashion writers Rikke and Sille can’t help but grin at your so-last-season outfit. Sartorial saints Eva Kruse, Copenhagen Fashion Week, and Didder Rønlund, journalist, enjoy the soothing Bruuns Bazaar courtyard atmosphere.
The future-obsessed Signe Bindslev Henriksen of Space Architecture and Design frolicking in a delicious Bruuns Bazaar moment alongside Malling Publication’s namesake Malene.
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Cover Magazine couple Emilie Johansson from the main mag with Frederik Bjerregaard from its sister, eehr, brother publication Cover Man.
Photographer and Mrs. Soulland Sascha Oda enjoyed insider gossip with secret agent Anneli.
Stine Goya‘s Thomas Hertz discusses the future of jewelry design with Hummel’s Christian Stadil.
DJ’s Emma Leth & Nina Holmgren opted not to play late 90s Goa trance, and didn’t regret their choice for one second.
Rapper Kesi is all about champagne and geometrical explosions.
Sophie Bille Brahe & Weekday
The hotness that is Sophie Bille Brahe.
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken HØST Hansen
Sophie Bille Brahe & Weekday The new collaboration between jeweler Sophie Bille Brahe and Swedish fashion apparel chain Weekday kicked off with a celebration on the first day of Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Bromantic moment shared by photographer Frederik Lindstrøm and Graphic Designer extraordinaire Mark Brunswicker (He’s so good that people stand in line to steal his ideas!)
Moshi Moshi’s Anja & Holly Golightly’s Maria are connoisseurs of minimalistic Nordic jewelry and won’t settle for anything less than perfection.
The intimidating fashion presence Hannah.
The snake-skin luvin’ Maja Barfod clutches fashion accessory-slash-chef Frederik Bille Brahe. 2PM models Malene Knudsen and Charlotte Høyer are like, obviously, we don’t need jewelry to look gorgeous, but we just can’t help ourselves!
Political scientists Troels and Oliver visited the event in order to deconstruct the symbolic order and semiotic connotations inherent in the fashion reception discourse.
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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES
Swedish invaders Mathilda & Tess constantly travel between European capitals for wardrobe inspiration, but somehow always end up wearing shades, black fabrics & silver jewelry. Helle Wang and Emil Bruun from Group 88 enjoyed a shady chat with Whiite’s Aman.
Host of an upcoming television show — which chronicles his exploits as an international fashionisto — Chris Pedersen networks with TEKO’s Dorrit Bøilerehauge. With an empire covering horses, kidswear and fashion for both sexes, Malene Malling basks in the glory of her publication success.
Everyone’s favorite model mama Jacqueline Friis Mikkelsen blazed through the Cover brunch looking for new faces, and still had time to socialize.
COVER brunch
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken HØST Hansen
COVER brunch
To toast a year of expansion, conquest and success for Cover magazine and its publisher Malling Publications, a fabulous sunny event was held at the Gallery tent together with the equally happening label Samsøe Samsøe.
Another day, another refreshing fashion reception in the sunshine for Noise PR’s Emilie and Stig P’s Line.
The eternally fabulous über-socialite Isabell Friis Mikkelsen with model vanessa. Michael Falgren and Anja Poulsen from BWATT magazine provide a catalog-worthy image of Scandinavian summer bliss.
The sharp pen behind Sofie’s Blog is called Sofie; here with Mie of Wewonder blogosphere fame.
Scoop’s Martin shared possibly naughty jokes with former Stine Goya employee Lotte Lind.
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Representing the fragrant harbor city with smiles and streetwear for the Stine Goya show.
Blogger Pernille Theisbæk is nuts for crucifixion, an obsession reflected in her accessories.
Shop owner Malene Thorlak moseyed up to designer Mads Nørgaard — in spite of appearances, he’s all about stripes.
Kristopher Arden Houser and Federico Poletti send off an Italian Vogue attitude.
Eurowoman’s editor-in-chief anne lose poses with styling editor Gertrud Maria Bønnelykke, who is all about sweet summer smiles.
After the show, tinted sunglass-sporting Kim Grenaa of GrenaaBuchard was surprised to learn the Goya collection wasn’t all-purple.
Stine Goya front row
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken HØST Hansen
Stine Goya front row
As one of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s most patterned, printed, and pittoresque institutions, Stine Goya’s show attracted an international cast of movers and shakers.
TV-hostess Pernille Rahbek in a shocking fluorescent-beige hue.
Cable TV soap opera personality Christiane Schaumburg-Müller likes clothes.
Notorious, cunning, infamous: Fashion critics Carla CB Strube and Elsebeth Mouritzen.
Dansk Daily’s Rozanna jumps on the Cruella deVille-pattern bandwagon. Two generations, one eternally delicious sartorial sensibility: GrenaaBuchard’s Uffe Buchard and fashion journalist Didder Rønlund.
Queen bee of Danish ELLE Cecilie Christiansen and AS ØLAND have an eagle eye for detail.
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Unquestionably the best dressed attendee, Jenny from Marc by Marc Jacobs thinks everyone else should just kinda, you know, sashay away.
Tanorexia-chic is super hot in Copenhagen this season what with the massive influx of orange Italian-Americans from Jersey.
Libertine-Libertine’s third wheel Peter is like the prince Harry of Will and Kate.
DJ Christel Pixie debating whether to play that oh-so-awesome mash-up of “99 problems but a bitch ain’t one” and “Call me Maybe.”
NAKED’s Louise and Lea have seen it all before!
naked
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken HØST Hansen
NAKED
Everyone’s favorite source of streetwear and sneakers for girls hosted a fun street event in the sun Wednesday afternoon in celebration of their Pilestræde store opening.
The seductive Alexandra Gorbunova shared a tender moment with eccentric billionaire ranch owner Rune Park, who had just jetted in from Australia.
Fashionisto Amin wears so much Soulland you could easily mistake him for Silas Adler.
Stine and Mikkel share a completely platonic hug.
Naked’s co-owner Tommas Aalto Olsen’s preferred getup is, unsurprisingly, his birthday suit. She may look shy but Naked’s Maria Paulina is one ferocious salesperson.
NU KAN HVER DAG VÆRE EN KJOLEDAG Fjerner selv de korteste hårstrå, så du ikke skal bekymre dig om at holde benene fri for stubbe – men blot vise dine smukke, silkebløde ben.
DELTAG I V EET STILETL ØB 2012 Fredag d.
10/8 kl. 17 .30 på Am København agertorv, K Tilmelding og yderlige re info på w w w.veet. dk
NYHED
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08/08/12 10.50
dansk daily FRIDAY august 10th LOOK OF THE DAY
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The look of the day By max factor
Punks get a dreamy BY MALENE BIRGER complexion LOOK OF THE DAY by Max Factor Words · Bea Fagerholt / Photo · Mathilde Schmidt
By Malene Birger’s SS13 collection recalls the sixties with a twist of eighties punk era, culminating in a striking yet feminine look in which the skin is fresh and natural, with a hint of peach for the apples of the cheeks adding a fresh, dreamy complexion. Eyes are intense and heavily outlined with a liquid black liner, further re-drawn with a black coal that provides a punkish feel to contrast the feminine. Key products - All by Max Factor False Lash Effect Mascara · Xperience Foundation · Lipfinity Lip Tint, Nice ‘n’ nude Creme puff · Glossfinity, Candy Rose no. 50 · Flawless Perfection Blush no. 223
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SHOW SCHEDULE / EVENTS
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friday 10.08.2012
events
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
BY MALENE BIRGER 10.00-12.00 — by invitation only Rahbeks Allé 21, Frederiksberg
BACK TO BASICsOLE LYNGGAARD COPENHAGEN PRESS BRUNCH & NEW CAMPAIGN LAUNCH 11.00-13.00 — by invitation only Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen Flagstore Ny Østergade 4, Copenhagen K ZARAH VOIGT X NAG STORE RECEPTION 17.00-20.00 — by invitation only NAG Store, Pilestræde 47, basement, Copenhagen K NORWEGIAN FASHION INSTITUTE 19.00-21.00 — by invitation only The Royal Norwegian Embassy, Amaliegade 39, Copenhagen ASGER JUEL LARSEN X NAG STORE X FASHION WEEK AT SIMONS 23.30-05.00 — by invitation only SIMONS, Store Strandstræde 14, Copenhagen K
COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL
LOOK OF THE DAY 12.00-19.00 — BEAUTY — open to all Max Factor, Magasin, Kgs. Nytorv 13, Copenhagen K VEET STILETTO RUN 2012 17.30-19.00 — COMPETITION — open to all Amagertorv, Copenhagen K COPENHAGEN FASHION SHOE FIGHT 18.30 — COMPETITION — open to all Notabene and Ash, Kronprinsensgade 9 & 10, Copenhagen K FASHION NIGHT OUT 18.00-21.00 — open to all in various stores in Copenhagen K BLOW YOUR MIND 20.00-02.00 — PARTY — open to all Diesel/55DSL, Kajak Republic, Børskaj 12, Copenhagen K FASHION WEEK PARTY 23.00-05.00 — PARTY — open to all Soundvenue + up!, Skindergade 45, Copenhagen K
show sChedule friday 10.08.2012 B y INVITAT ION ON LY
14.00 - Gallery Show Scene Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg C
Ivan Grundahl 10.00 - NIMB, Bernstorffsgade 5, Copenhagen V
19.00 - TAP2, Pasteursvej 30, Copenhagen V
Jesper Høvring 15.00 - VISION Show Venue, Lokomotivværkstedet Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV 11.00 - TAP2, Pasteursvej 30, Copenhagen V
Designers’ Nest
Barbara Í Gongini 20.00 - Krausesvej 3, 2100 Copenhagen Ø
New Generals
Soulland
12.00 - The Royal Danish Theatre Sankt Annæ Plads 36, Copenhagen K
16.00 - Gallery Show Scene Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg C
RIIS // Johanna Pihl
Elsa Adams
21.00 - Gallery Show Scene Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg C
Tabernacle Twins 17.00 - TAP2, Pasteursvej 30, Copenhagen V
13.00 - TAP2, Pasteursvej 30, Copenhagen V
Moonspoon Saloon
22.00 - Remisen, Enghavevej 80, Copenhagen SV
Asger Juel Larsen
Adidas Originals 18.00 - Gallery Show Scene Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg C
Gaia
For more events and show details go to www.copenhagenfashionfestival.com
INDIA : ART NOW
INDIA : FASHION NOW
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