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SPRING SUMMER 2013
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SATURDAY AUGUST 11TH
TREND
A new confident masculinity
SPOT
LOOK OF THE DAY
A welcome comeback for Wood Wood
MAX FACTOR LOOK OF THE DAY Day Birger et Mikkelsen
FEATURE
REVIEWS
Why male models go macho
Ivan Grundahl · MoonSpoon Saloon Tabernacle Twins · Soulland · Gaia
COVER PHOTO SOULLAND BY SIMON B. MØRCH
dansk daily SATURDAY august 11th
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EDITORIAL
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Masculinity revised editorial
Iben Albinus Sabroe EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Browsing through this issue of Dansk Daily, it would appear we dedicated it to the male sex, when in fact all we did was set out to register the current trends and bring you yesterday’s collections in pictures and words. In a Copenhagen Fashion Week with more shows than ever, menswear designers have made a mark, and it’s positively ravishing. Thursday saw Wood Wood back with an amazingly cool collection, containing floral prints for men and with a sweet but unsentimental Summer of Love theme, and yesterday, Asger Juel Larsen presented a delicate balance between soft goth, sophisticated tailoring and
fitted masculine styles. Keeping in mind Peter Jensen’s gender-bender chic collection that once again proved why the designer is coveted by A-list celebrities and upscale department stores, Vibskov’s cleaner, tighter, tougher look and Jean//phillip’s mature masculine romance, it’s been a great week for menswear. Last but not least, Silas Adler’s Soulland showed a drop-dead gorgeous spring/summer look that fuses Nordic cool with Parisian chic. In the only show that featured top model Eddie Klint this Copenhagen Fashion Week, Soulland bestowed on us an updated version of classic menswear for the sophisticated modern flaneur.
For guys with a soft spot for style without pretense. And personally, I wouldn’t mind wearing one of those candy-striped shirts over a bikini top next summer. All in all, Danish menswear designers showed a soft yet self-confident modern man, and if you ask Cover Man’s Chris Pedersen or 2PM’s Peter Damgaard, whom we’ve interviewed for today’s feature, it’s a trend that is mirrored in the world of male models. “It’s a a new masculinity,” says Chris, and there seems to be no reason to complain about that. Enjoy this Dansk Daily, we had fun making it!
CONTRIBUTORS PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Iben Albinus Sabroe CREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT COORDINATOR Rozanna Fritz ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo, Kasper Fjederholt, Mikkel M. Andersen · IRONFLAG SUB-EDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson BEAUTY EDITOR Bea Fagerholt EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Rikke Charlotte Larsen
WRITERS Carla Christine Bruus Strube, Elsebeth Mouritzen Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie Rikke Dyrholm, Sille Henning PHOTOGRAPHERS Simon B. Mørch, Mathilde Schmidt Maiken Høst Hansen, Copenhagen Fashion Week Fashionforum.dk Naja Helene Hertzum, Moussa Mchangama Monica Senker Holbech Sales Representative Jens Løkke DISTRIBUTION Cath Møss, Charlotte Mørch, Julie Christine Kühne PRINT Berlingske Avistryk
BY MALENE BIRGER SHOWROOM RAHBEKS ALLÉ 21 FREDERIKSBERG - 8-11 AUGUST 2012 BYMALENEBIRGER.COM
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NEWS
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DANIS H B ACO N
EXECUTIVE EDITO R An n e love s Im e d e e n
Girl of the moment Nadja Bender from Viva Mod-
Beauty comes from the inside, some say, and now you can take a pill to help
els has conquered the fashion world. With photog-
you look pretty. Almost. I have become quite addicted to Imedeen, which makes
raphers like Mario Testino and David Sims lusting
my skin healthier and more radiant, a much needed boost in the fashion week
after the Danish beauty, she has in no time risen to
preparation period when I get less sleep than normal.
international stardom as a top ticket on the run-
www.imedeen.co.uk
ways of various fashion weeks, and been featured in editorials in magazines like French and Italian Vogue, Numero, Purple Magazine — and of course our own DANSK Magazine. Nadja, we hail you as our new goddess of beauty.
O bs e s s e d w i t h me n With the Obsessed with me, myself and men collection, the Danish label Stella Nova has launched its AW12 campaign, headed by the Danish model/ photographer Christian Brylle. The campaign emphasizes the androgynous look, and seeks to
Danish jewelry goes to the other side The Danish jewelry phenomenon Line & Jo open their first flagship store abroad this month, in Stockholm’s Biblioteksgatan-neighborhood. As one would expect, the coming store is decorated with the same simplicity and luxury found in their jewels – and in their Copenhagen flagship store. So why pick Stockholm? “We’re fascinated by the beauty of Stockholm, the cosmopolitan lifestyle and the Swedish fashion and design business. We look forward to introducing our universe to the city – and in exchange be inspired by the pulse of Stockholm,” says designer Line Hallberg. News provided by Fashionforum.dk
subvert typical fashion images by using a man dressed in womenswear.
THE OBSESSED WITH MEN COLLECTION
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SATURDAY august 11th dansk daily NEWS
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TH E O NE AND O NLY 1 8 0 Classy as the Mona Lisa and modern like a Roy Lichtenstein, the Nike Air Force 180 never goes out of style. No Lunar sole can make this better. This is a must-have in any sneaker collection.
I ns i d e Cop e nhagen LOTTE FREDDIE. Denmark’s most prominent fashion journalist (and, we are proud to say, staff writer at Dansk Daily) Lotte Freddie shares her tips on how to enjoy the most fashionable aspects of the city. Where’s the best place to go out in Copenhagen, right now? Simons in Store Strandstræde is a Facebook disco frequented by the Crown Prince, his friends and local jet set. Preferred for dancing. KB18 in Kødboderne 18 is a music club where models, gays, wannabes and cool cats go for drinks and hip music – from rock & roll, electro and punk to indie, garage and drum & bass. Where do you get the best brunch? “Europa” in Amagertorv is a classic without being antiquated, run by the son of Copenhagen’s grand fashion man, Jørgen Nørgaard, and part of the Nørgaard fashion empire that comprises the ever-trendy fashion store Nørgaard på Strøget, which is stocked with the latest international women’s designs.
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C r e a t i v e e ditor Rozanna lo ve s T H E AW 2012 COLLECTION F R O M W O OD WOOD www.woodwood.dk
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NEWS
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In t e r n a t i on a l fu r c on g r e s s on Da n i s h s oi l Kopenhagen Fur will host the International Fur Animal Scientific Association (IFASA) congress in Denmark this August. During the four days, subjects like breeding, feeding and nutrition, animal illness and genetics will be on the table. As a first, the Danish fur connoisseurs have convinced a delegation of Chinese researchers to join the congress, which has taken place every four years since 1976. IFASA Congress, August 21-24, Scandic Copenhagen
EDIT OR’S P ICK OF THE DAY Asger Juel showed refined menswear with strong gothic references in a delicate balance between sophistication and roughness. A cool choice for guys with a taste for tailored high street.
News provided by Fashionforum.dk
News provided by Fashionforum.dk
BETH DITTO ROCKS MYKITA If MYKITA weren’t a brand but a person, she would be a celebrity, or rather a celebrity diva. Based in Berlin, MYKITA’s glasses are meticulously designed and hand-made in order to meet the wildest dreams of modern consumers. These days, the German trio behind MYKITA has further spoiled their exclusive fan base by adding a real celebrity to their design team. A new model, Beth, is designed by Beth Ditto, the American indie rock queen. Like their namesake, these shades are big and loud, and according to the singer song-
Shop d e s i g n e r wear fo r y o u r k i ds The online success Youheshe.com, which provides Danes hungry for fashion with a premium fix, has launched a brand-new concept directed towards the kiddos. Cleverly named Youheshe Kids, the new concept provides children (and their parents) with all the right gear, both online and offline. Youheshe Kids’ stuff is also implemented in the physical store, which includes a playing corner.
The focus is on
Danish and international designer brands, funny accessories for the children’s room and beauty products – naturally free of parabens and perfume. Check out youheshe.com.
writer they’re the greatest pair of sunglasses she ever wore. www.mykita.com
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SATURDAY august 11th dansk daily NEWS
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S t a ff’ s p i ck of t h e d a y
News provided by Fashionforum.dk
Wood Wood have taken the trenchcoat out of the trenches and into the jungle with this army camouflage-printed piece for the ladies. We’re no soldiers at Dansk Daily but with garments like this, who knows what next season holds?
Kar ma ki t s a n d sensa t i on a l s oc c e r At this year’s Roskilde Festival, Danish sports- and leisurewear brand Hummel took part in hosting a large-scale all-girl soccer tournament, Sensational Football, donating Hummel Karma Kits to participating players from Danish asylum centers. And you can help, too: download the Hummel Human Goal app and help donate more training gear to refugee women in Denmark. Each kit consists of 10 football sweatshirts, a handball, a soccer ball, a pump and naturally a bag to carry the goods.
Jop l i n can’t s t a n d t h e rain We all desire to be stylish — but sometimes we also need to be (shock,
WIN Th e Ar t i s t !
horror) utilitarian. This waterproof boot in Sorel’s Joplin line of boots
Few films in recent years have proven the importance of visual
is perfect for conquering the puddles on rainy spring days. The Joplin
style for storytelling as vividly as The Artist, last year’s Oscar
Rain boot offers just this in serious style, waterproof materials like
sweeper, which is finally out on DVD this week. With his compel-
coated textile upper, canvas lining, and a rubber midsole and outsole.
ling story and elegant romance between two competing movie stars in 1920s Hollywood, French director Michel Hazanavicius
Sorel knows that good craftsmanship and functionality go hand in
contributed to the ‘20s fashion trend also honed by the stylish TV
hand, and have extended their line of winter boots to include light and
show Downton Abbey. And surprised everyone by making a smash
airy summer versions. Because there’s a boot in everything Sorel makes.
hit of a silent movie. Black and white never goes out of style.
www.sorel.com
Let us know how many Oscars The Artist has won, and get a chance to win the dvd. info@danskdaily.dk
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A second try at second hand Looks from three talented Danish design students are on display in the H&M Copenhagen flagship store right now. The students – all from Kolding School of Design – participated in H&M’s second hand redesign competition, organized in connection with Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2012 in May. Student Kathrine Gram Hvejsel won the competition, which brought in more than 2,500 pieces of clothing to the Danish Red Cross. The designs go under the hammer in mid-August at Lauritz.com. H&M, Amagertorv 23, Copenhagen K.
News provided by Fashionforum.dk
Sne a k a pe e k The staff at Monocle magazine aren’t the only ones fixating their blue eyes on Danish sneaker brand House of Montague. Pop duo Nik & Jay have been spotted rocking its footwear, and the Dansk Daily team are all into the leopard theme for SS13. The sharp sneaks can be purchased in a fully lined quilted satin printed all over with leopard. Curious? See the entire collection at Dansk Collective Friday. www.houseofmontague.dk
C O M P ETITI O N Win an amazing goodie bag from Max Factor that contains a beauty kit with all the products for today’s Day Birger et Mikkelsen look: Xperience Weightless Foundation, Smoky Eye Effect (Onyx), Trio Eye Shadow (Precious Metal), False Lash Effect Fusion Mascara, Xperience Sheer Gloss Balm (Coral), Glossfinity nr. 55 Angel nails and more. Check out how to enter at www.danskdaily.dk
pilgrim.dk / find nearest retailer at pilgrim.dk/stores
08-08-2012 10:09:23
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www.citroen.dk
NYT KØRETØJ? En unik bil fortjener en unik introduktion. Derfor blev Citroën DS5 i Danmark lanceret med en designkonkurrence for fem nyskabende danske tøjdesignere. Konkurrencen hed Design5, og udfordringen var at designe et sæt tøj, der matcher bilens markante formsprog og interiør. At Citroën DS5 er en inspirerende bil, fremgik tydeligt af de fem kreationer på cat- og carwalken i det store finaleshow, hvor Vibe Lundemark med mærket “Tabernacle Twins” vandt. Citroën Danmark siger stor tak til de deltagende tøjdesignere og alle, der var med til at gøre danmarkspremieren på Citroën DS5 til en enestående begivenhed.
SE MERE OM DESIGN5-KONKURRENCEN, BOOK EN PRØVETUR OG VIND EN IPAD PÅ BLOG.DS5.DK Citroën DS5 og de fem kreationer kan ses i VISION, Lokomotivværkstedet, Otto Busses Vej 5A, 2450 Kbh. SV i forbindelse med Copenhagen Fashion Week.
CRÉATIVE TECHNOLOGIE
SPON DIOGO
BIBI GHOST
TABERNACLE TWINS
ANNE SOFIE MADSEN
WACKERHAUS
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A new masculinit y words: Iben albinus sabroe
Who would have thought the new faces of Prada would belong to Gary Oldman and Willem Dafoe? Fashion brands look for characters their customers can relate to, and a new masculinity dictates today’s trends in the world of male models.
Patrick Petitjean for XL SEMANAL
preme. Now they had to discover their own, new faces, which is how a girl like Kate Moss could find her way to stardom,” he says.
Movie stars usually inhabit the front row at Miuccia Prada’s coveted shows during Milan Fashion Week. And speaking of usually, they tend to represent the young, glamorous Hollywood A-list. Especially if they’ve been given the honour of presenting the clothes from the new collection accompanied by the season’s hottest models. But much to the audience’s surprise, when the trendsetting Italian designer showed her autumn/ winter 2012 collection, walking the runway were renowned character actors Gary Oldman, Willem Dafoe and Tim Roth, all in their 50s and a cast that would have felt more at home in David Lynch movie. Even the location Mrs. Prada had chosen for her venue was covered wall-to-wall in red velvet tapestry. It may look like a bold choice, and yet however many cool points Prada scores with her new, wellrespected leading men, the arrival of the mature man in perfect touch with his own masculinity might very well be a necessity born out of the economic crisis. ”Gone are the days when fashion was prone to risk, to playing with and challenging the stereotypes,” says Chris Pedersen, editor-in-chief of Cover Man: ”These days, you see a need and lust for traditional values. One popular explanation is that only older guys can afford clothes and really carry a luxury brand. That’s why their casting agents are on the look out for models that male consumers can see themselves mirrored in. I think it makes sense, and it may well be that Miuccia Prada has nailed it once again. For her fall/winter 2012 campaign, she chose actors Gary Oldman, Garrett Hedlund,
Jamie Bell and Willem Dafoe. They may not be models, but they’re good looking — and older.” It’s not the first time Prada has played a part in redefined male model trends, he adds. The 1980s promoted a classical look. Think Marcus Schenkenberg, who matched the female supermodels. But a decade later, Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme and Miuccia Prada launched a counter attack on the traditional male. ”Skinny guys walk on to the runways with tattoos and long hair. The youngster takes over the stage, so to speak, as consumers grow younger while older consumers become more groomed and interested in fashion,” says Chris Pedersen. But that was a time when high brands could sell suits to fashion-conscious men by having a skinny 16-year-old pose with a grungy attitude. ”It was the heyday of the creative elite and they were allowed to play with the ultra skinny and the ultra young,” says Peter Damgaard, owner of model agency 2pm. ”The brands were used to paying big money for the supermodels, who in those days reigned su-
Before the grungy 90s, a male model would be asked to wear a size 50 suit, and that changed to standards of a 44-46, which have ruled since. ”No customer could ever expect to be able to wear the slim pants Hedi Slimane’s suits promoted. What we see now is a reaction against that.” A perfect example of the new trend, says Peter Damgaard, is Prada’s use of Patrick Petitjean. ”He’s a completely different type. He looks like Robinson Crusoe, bearded and sporting a more rugged, older quality of beauty. I’m happy to say this is an overall trend, even if it’s not as visible with the women yet,” says Peter Damgaard, pointing to the fact that Vogue just raised their minimum age for models to 16: ”Models are becoming older and healthier.” The classical masculine Hollywood hero is also back in the spotlight. Ralph Lauren’s model, the polo player Nacho Figueras, exemplifies a distilled, if not clichéd, macho beauty with his sharply cut facial features, chronic tan, black locks and muscular body. ”A Danish equivalent to Nacho Figueras is Henrik F from Scoop Models, who was chosen as Danish male model of the year. He represents a new type. Very masculine. Hairy chest and long beard. He is what you might call ’a real man’ and very different from the young boys whose body types have dominated the fashion scene for years,” says Chris Pedersen, and concludes: ”That type of masculinity is new.”
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” you see a need and lust for traditional values. One popular explanation is that only older guys can afford clothes and really carry a luxury brand. T hat’s why their casting agents are on the look out for m odels that m ale consumers can see themselves mirrored in. ”
Scoop model’s HEnrik F.
FEATURE
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WOOD WOOD
A FLORAL COMEBACK
words: Moussa Mchangama photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
After a couple of seasons showing in Berlin, Wood Wood returned to base in Copenhagen this week to display their newest collection. And what a collection it was. Let’s be frank here: they nailed it. Using nylons, wool, cotton twills, denim, jersey and organza, it felt like a much more tailored and mature collection than ever before. Not tailored in the David Andersen-way, but as perfectly fitted blazers (panelled with nylon and possible to wear inside-out) and jackets that provided definite show highlights. Drawing on two periods, the Summer of Love in ’67 and the Second Summer of Love in ‘88/’89, Wood Wood aimed to project a Third Movement
(the name of the collection) with that same amazing energy and vibe. That may very well come true, since almost all the pieces were wearable and pretty, without losing that quintessentially important underground feel. It’s a genuinely difficult task to make floral-printed organza tops for women without going overtly girly, but Wood Wood did the job flawlessly. A distorted animal print was genius, trench-coats were beautiful, there were great shorts for both sexes, and the colors — especially the army greens and some deep reds — we’re smashing. If it’s collections like this one Wood Wood will keep on producing, it would be a shame to have them leave Copenhagen again. Welcome home.
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DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN Back to base
Day Birger et Mikkelsen, one of Denmark’s most venerable brands, has seduced us for 15 years, being the first label to introduce pearl and crystal embroidery — bling — for everyday use. Life hasn’t been the same since.
With time, the bling evaporated, giving way to minimalism ruling the day — at least until recently, when owner Keld Mikkelsen decided to give his baby a makeover in collaboration with Peter Ingwersen. Before going abroad, Ingwersen went through the collections to restore edge and clout, as the two men wanted to give the
words: Lotte Freddie photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
brand a lift back to its original DNA. Day’s status as a high-end label should be sustained; it’s not supposed to be a cheap mainstream name sold everywhere in every kind of shop.
had a purple ethnic pattern appliquéd on the shoulders, and draped waterfall styles were becoming, as were necklines, in pretty, well-made dresses.
The result of Day’s back-to-base plan was demonstrated in three tableaus where 10 girls at a time showed white, eggshell, nude and soft pastels mixed with yellow, pale blue and tomato. Especially catching was a combination of raspberry sherbet with mango as tops with jeans. Chiffon flowed in wide trousers and asymmetrical tops and skirts, a dusty green safari jacket
Bling is back in a different way at Day — as silver sequins, crystals and pearls blinking from tops and dresses and as gold, brass and copper shining from parkas, bikinis, jeans, belts and the straps on wedges. The head of The Royal Danish Ballet, Nicolaj Hübbe, “arranged” the shining models for the finale in this first attempt at a return to Day-base.
A mAgert orv 10 · 1160 K ø b en h Av n K · tel ef on 33 14 19 41 · w w w. i l l u m s bo l i g hu s . d K mAndAg – torsdAg 10 – 18 · fredAg 10 – 19 · lørdAg 10 – 18
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NEW GENERALS
New consumers on the block The target group was in place — babies and toddlers with their urban parents — resonating with the soundtrack’s clear children’s voices at Friday’s early-morning show, when New Generals opened up to their minimalistic suggestions for the fashionable brood. Cute, natural kids strutted down the concrete catwalk in identical black ankle boots in almost unisex clothes, with the exception of the girls’ pleated poplin skirts, jersey pencil skirts and A-line dresses.
Lots of slim jeans, leggings and biker shorts in black were topped with tees and sweatshirts with the signature prints, butterflies for girls and beetles for boys, in a restrained palette of white, grey
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
and dusty blue, with the occasional splash of pink to add femininity to the otherwise cool design. Should little ones wear so much black? While it’s an exception in the sea of playful colors and prints that have ruled children’s fashion for decades, there is definitely a niche in the market for an alternative city look. Buyers from Copenhagen’s leading department store Magasin rejoiced over the collection, which fits into their new concept, Design Lab For Kids, where fellow Scandinavian designers Mads Nørgaard and Acne already cater to the junior fashion-conscious consumers.
matinique.com
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ELSA ADAMS
Feminine whites
words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Yesterday, Elsa Adams presented her Spring Summer 2013 collection outside the Royal Danish Playhouse by the waterfront of Copenhagen harbor.
As indicated in the brand’s name, all the styles were crafted by hand. It was a feminine collection for the grown-up woman, with draped skirts, shift dresses, short tailored jackets, ladylike blouses, wide pants, plenty of lace and rich detailing. The color palette was muted with splashes of bright coral red. The more tailored pieces were the strongest part of a collection whose detailing, especially on dresses, looked a bit too “handmade”.
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Jesper Høvring High glamour
It’s really quite amazing that several couturiers who specialize in expensive gala and wedding dresses can exist in a very down-to-earth society like the Danish, where luxury and glamour are often frowned upon, considered too frivolous and ostentatious. But exactly such a designer is Jesper Høvring, who is sought after by a large Danish public — from Crown Princess Mary (again voted amongst the world’s 10 best dressed women by Vanity Fair), other royalty, celebrities and less exposed “ordinary” women who want something unique for a special occasion.
words: Lotte Freddie photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
All of these women can consider themselves very lucky, for the “dresses”, if you can use such a dreary word for these sublime creations, were revelations of the highest order.
Choose between romance and sex appeal — white or cream chiffon empire dresses with long trains, embroidered with silver or nude petals on the corsage, charmed as the utmost in romantic vision. Silver glimmered: as slinky diva dreams draped in long liquid metallic lurex swaying down the runway — as antique matte silver sequins that looked new and seductive in the new midilength pencil skirts — or as a top with a waterfall back put to straight tomato-red crepe de chine trousers.
Gold shone, embroidered on tops or on wide, white lace-side panels in terrific white trousers worn with a chiffon corsage top. The stunning new tomato red flowed in chiffon shirts or as layered frills in lovely crepe de chine dresses. And just a whiff of black lace from the shoulder gave a kick to the LBD. A beautifully made, exquisite, breathtaking, international collection in which old days of glory translated into top modern 2013 glamour for the discerning woman — or any film star who wants to be certain to catch all the paparazzi blitzes.
Since 1981 DENMARK
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IVAN GRUNDAHL Softly sculptured
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
The big news at veteran designer Ivan Grundahl’s show this season was menswear. Though numbering just a few outfits, it was a welcome addition to his universe with comfortable cream safari jackets and below-the-knee cuffed shorts or soft pants, so that men and women can complement each other when sharing a taste for timeless clothes with an organic look. Once again, the sculptural yet soft voluminous dresses prevailed throughout the collection in naturally wrinkled linens. Some in checks, others with prints and most of them in solid neutrals. The new shade for next season was reds, revolving around raspberry, supplementing the stable of whites, greys and khakis that he used in a casual but clever interplay.
Particularly impressive was a sweeping dress and coat in grey with a print in white that resembled a painter’s brush strokes, and dresses with a congestion of vertical narrow pleats on the midriff to create a different texture and decoration. The audience applauded spontaneously when the male model entered in a black maxi-length polo shirt over trousers, and Ivan Grundahl got everyone cheering and smiling when the finale of floor-length tiered skirts in white cheesecloth was paraded by all the models; the guy remained bare-chested while his female colleagues sported bandeau bras.
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7/6/12 1:13 PM
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RIIS & JOHANNA PIHL Hyped newcomers
Stine Riis has high expectations to meet. Within a year of her graduation, she has won both an exclusive H&M-award for her minimalistic, elegant and futuristic designs, and been labeled ”one to watch” by Vogue Italia. For her SS13, she presented a softly sculptured, sophisticated collection in bright red, denim blue and black with a pair of high-waisted silk trousers as an obvious bestseller.
words: Carla Christine Bruus Strube
Johanna Pihl’s collection had this time gone from confident to confusing, showing both black, shiny enameled leather belts, red leather shorts, pointy corsages, silky waist coats with braided backs, cutouts, loads of see-through organza and very, very short, diagonal skirts. A pair of light-grey smoking trousers in silk were really elegant and a ditto-colored organza/silk-striped dress would have lived up to its grace if a proper perm had been performed.
PHOTO: Christine Dahlerup & Mathilde Hauch-Fausbøll
Visit us at VISION LokomotivvĂŚrkstedet stand L352 9 -11 august 2012
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Designers’ Nest Menswear in the air
Designers’ Nest, the design competition founded by the director of Vision, Jan Bush Carlsen, in 2003, is a revered showcase for young Nordic design talent. The chairman of the jury, Tom Steifel Christensen, welcomed the audience — with the fashion-conscious Minister of Economic Affairs Margrethe Vestager seated front row — and outlined the judging criteria for evaluating the design: innovative thinking, quality of workmanship and obvious possibilities for commercial development. 27 students from nine design schools participated in the competition and demonstrated various examples of how to win one of the three prizes according to these rules.
words: Lotte Freddie photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Often, the judge’s choice of winners seems mystifying, which was also the case in this year’s Designers’ Nest. But as the menswear appeared as the most interesting design throughout the show, Daniel Kirk Horsbøl Andersen from Kolding School of Design was a safe, popular winner of the first prize — 50,000 Danish kroner.
The waxed camouflaged coat, the heavy grey ribknitted bolero jacket continuing in a looong scarf, and a pale, square short coat worn over checked English tweed trousers fulfilled all of the judge’s criteria; besides, “it saluted the modern superhero,” as the chairman put it. Randi Kjær Pedersen from TEKO Center Danmark and Johan Nordberg from The Swedish School of Textiles were the first and second runners up, but Anna Støj Jessen’s daring color mix, Elin Tveitan’s silver-white leather adorned with white plastic spikes, and Anna Kristin Sigurdardóttir’s elegant classics in sand and black also deserve being applauded as promising new design talents.
Autumn / Winter 2012 / 2013 Addicted to jewellery
www.K-Z.dk
Medina
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ASGER JUEL larsen
Recycling warfare in Gothic welfare Tap2 was action-packed with crispy young men when London-educated designer Asger Juel Larsen showed his latest contribution to Danish fashion’s menswear department. As part of the rawer, wilder segment of the business, Asger Juel Larsen fused action with fashion, suitable for the show’s male predominance. As with previous offerings, the new collection oozed with enthusiasm for the soldiers of last century’s trench warfare. But this time Asger Juel Larsen had moved away from his former raw Camden obsession – which suited the brand by providing more balanced diversity and volume.
words: Rikke Dyrholm photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
The collection sported sharp tailoring in long, heavy slim-fit trench-inspired warfare coats, jackets with bulky zipper pockets and laced in the waist, jogging-inspired drop-crotch pants styled with knee-long black socks, and Goth-inspired jewelry with a tough attitude. Textured materials eased up the tough theme and took the edge off this Goth feel. Loose Aladdin-inspired pants, skirts and a lone female model in the crowd of crisp males added a causal touch of gender bending to a mood that otherwise radiated manhood.
Along with bold and fierce prints with skulls, vibrant patterns and random splashed prints, the featured color play balanced between dark and dusty colors in general, interrupted by luminous – almost fluorescent – green/aqua/yellow and orange/brown hues in prints. Further, a traditional camel was featured, adding a classic twist. Wrapping his warfare theme in Goth, Larsen’s new collection proved more complete and versatile in expression than his previous — offering more uplifting and assorted pieces and thereby addressing a wider audience.
S P R I N G 2 013 V i s i t u s at t h e n e w C i F F Fa s h i o n Fa i r , s ta n d C1 - 0 0 9, au g u s t 9 -12 t h 2 012 F o r F u r t h e r d e ta i l s C a l l +4 5 2 9 74 16 8 3
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MOONSPOON SALOON Clean elegance
words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Watching a Moonspoon Saloon show always feels like being invited into a fairytale. The colors are vivid, silhouettes intriguing, and there is something magical about each new collection. This season, however, designer Sara Sachs had opted to make the label just a little bit more commercial, which suited the collection very well. It seemed more accessible, though without losing its avant-garde feel.
First came an elegant ladybird, then the jester, followed by a host of magical creatures. A beautiful oversized shirt in blue and burgundy suede, which were the main colors in the collection, acted as a coat, while whimsical prints on silk were both feminine and becoming. A short ruffle dress, plenty of frills, and geometrical prints added a theatrical twist to the collection together with hats and shoes that dotted the i’s. Moonspoon’s was really a good collection that definitely made you want to see more.
ALT OM MODEBRANCHEN Ă˜konomi
CSR
Modeuge
Viden
Job
www.FashionForum.dk
Kalender
Kontakt
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GAIA Dazzle squared
words: Rikke Dyrholm photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
GAIA’s show at Gallery unveiled a fondness for World War II and the razzle dazzle camouflaged Allied ships of that era. Due to this theme, the collection’s pieces appeared inspirationally camouflaged in stripes, graphic and geometric shapes, distorting the audience’s perception. And GAIA sure had the attention of the viewers, adding styling details like heavy copper bands on black heels and elbows, intense makeup with copper-colored cheeks and black stripes painted in the corner of the eye. Simple and appealing silhouettes were explored in different knits and
textures, presented in shapes and forms reminiscent of the late 40s and early 50s. Presenting a color scheme ranging from bottle green, powdery pink, dark indigo blue, burned orange to rusty brown in the company of luminous colors, the palette brought to mind sailors and sport with a modern twist. A solid collection in a creative, post-war camouflaged distortional spirit. Though it seemed a bit rambling as a whole, GAIA provided a collection inspirational and refreshingly different, offering playful knits and garments.
OILL - EXTRACTED UNDER COPENHAGEN VISION - STAND L490
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Barbara i Gongini Art in motion
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Barbara í Gongini is not your average designer. Her work balances between art and theatrics, but behind the avant-garde performances disguised as a fashion show, she dares to be different with clothes that demand a lot of integrity from the wearer.
Fittingly, the theme song for her show was Walk on the Wild Side by Lou Reed, but it was a cacophony of noises that accompanied the first part of her Collection 17. Most of the styles were multi-layered silk and jersey for women, but also a few men’s styles appeared, with upside-down tank-tops, flowing straps and seams, straightjackets and old-fashioned men’s union suits in acidic yellow, white, grey and black.
This was the overture to the core of the collection: a long array of carefully thought-out deconstructed garments topped with cloudlike wigs and accented by vinyl leggings and wedged footwear wrapped in cloth. All inspired by the Nordic preferences for minimalism and complexity, in the designer’s own words. Looking beyond the artful presentation, there were some beautiful oyster silk dresses draped asymmetrically, a wrinkled biker jacket, menswear-inspired drop-crotch shorts, and jackets and dresses in crisp black with a multitude of sharp pleats as decoration that could also be worn by the more average consumer.
To view the collection SS13 please visit us at the below fairs or contact one of our agents:
White, Milano 22nd – 24th of September 2012 Premiere Classe, Jardin de Tuileries, Paris 28th of September – 1st of October 2012 Belgium: Denmark: Germany: Italy (south): Netherlands: Norway: Worldwide:
Studio C +32 2 363 99 89 Dorte Boe +45 22928607 Modeagentur Nikolic +49 211 454 1580 Spazio F +39 081 19561921 or +39 392 9589290 Coster Agenturen +31 650 521378 Holtex +47 90968266 Charlotte Sparre +45 45894040
www.charlottesparre.com
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Tabernacle Twins Sporting I ndia
words: Carla Christine Bruus Strube photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Tabernacle Twins, the fictive and adventurous muses of designer Vibe Lundemark, had journeyed to India for the label’s SS13 collection. This influenced a vibrant color range with turquoise green tones and bright orange to be highlighted.
length in the back turning them into dresses. Lundemark’s artsy all-over prints were contrasted by monochrome pieces in white and orange that acted as a strong and pleasant hiatus for the eye.
In accordance with the general trend of artificial materials, Lycra was added to an exclusive line of taffeta, light and heavy silk, chiffon and lace, and was used in catsuits as well as simple t-shirt dresses.
An outfit featuring denim shorts paired with a silk shirt in the same discretely printed mintturquoise color looked fresh and mature at the same time, in contrast to the interesting yet overwhelming range of prints, which clearly demand courage of consumers.
Prints and sculptural, fluid silhouettes are the trademarks of Tabernacle Twins, this season primarily shown in variations of bomber jackets, kimonos and shirts — some with both width and
Tabernacle Twins managed to balance elegant luxury with crazy, colorful prints, giving next season’s offerings a fresh and surprisingly sporty feel.
AAGA RD
byaagaard.com
A WORLD OF
JEWELLERY AUTUMN / WINTER 2012
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SOULLAND Mixed identity
words: Moussa Mchangama photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Soulland has impressed with the last collections, showing that the brand is maturing with each season. This time, no exceptions were made — it’s a stellar collection from the Danish brand started by Silas Adler as an underground t-shirt label. This time around, the inspiration was the French bourgeoisie, a theme explored with quite a bit of irony. Soulland logos and French mansions printed on shirts, pants and t-shirts made for an interesting take on logomania, providing the shirts with a fun edge — especially on the white shirt with an orange print. The colors were, as always, good; apricot, red and oranges among shades of blue, white, grey, sand
and black. New shoes, sandals (love!), hats and both a scarf and a tie provided new accessories. The most remarkable thing about Soulland’s agenda? The show itself. Combining an installation with QR-codes, smartphones and social media, this was no typical fashion show. While the models stood still, guests were meant to scan QR-codes with their iPhones to access more information about the clothes and see videos of the models in action. Quite cool actually, and an interesting take on what fashion shows may become in the future. Who knows? One thing’s for sure: whatever Silas Adler dictates, he’s likely to get a following. Bravo.
presenting spring / summer 2013 9–12 August 2012 c if f. dk
dansk daily SATURDAY august 11th BACKSTAGE
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Simon captures fashion week words: Magnus Jorem
Dansk Daily’s cover photographer Simon B. Mørch captures more than just one shot per day. Battling his way through the fury of the backstage, wielding a camera as his only weapon, he’s captured the essense of some of SS13’s most powerful collections.
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SATURDAY august 11th dansk daily BACKSTAGE
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Blogosphere mega-personality Gina Jaqueline, probably in vintage attire that she just happened to pick up at a Parisian street market on one of the adventurous shopping outings her readers love. Cover blogger/DJ/stylist Entree sported seriously sensuous facial hair next to Soundvenue’s fashion editor Sidsel, who just can’t keep her naughty fingers off Instagram whenever she gets press mentions. #cheekysidsel.
Let’s just say that sartorial maverick Patrick Spiegelberg is not an adherent of Nordic minimalism.
Sensitive musician Paw displays his not-so-infernal side.
A fashion editor whose charm is a predator, Frede shops and shops till he gets calls from his creditor.
A mayor of the city, Pia loves her fashion rough and gritty, and finds the attire quite a pity in the municipal committee.
Asger Juel Larsen front row
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken HØST Hansen
Asger Juel Larsen front row Asger Juel Larsen’s runway show this season was attended by very important princesses including a mayor, the WHAM! of the 2000s and a throng of enthusiastic fashion editors.
The WHAM! of the 2000s, Nik & Jay. Blogger Katarzyna from S-U-S channels her inner Karen O. Costume’s Maiken Winther and beauty expert Charlotte Torpegaard express pure exhilaration about all the new spring/summer offerings, but will always remain true to their own personal stylistic DNA.
Fashion journalist Carla takes minimal modern luxury to new heights of flawlessness.
Sarcastic fashionista with blogger Jackie Navarro.
Copenhagen Fashion Week-CEO Eva Kruse does it better.
Photographer of Dansk Daily’s covers Simon B. Mørch is cuter than pumpkins and should consider modeling as the twinkalicious subjects he so often depicts.
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Designer Ketil Aas stunned by all the new sartorial creations Designer Beate Godager of eponymous label in a delicate composition of pattern and dark hues.
Another fashion week, another hair color — designer and teacher Bettina Bakdal proudly enjoys her students’ designs.
Alien blogger Soffia Einarsdottir from runwaypassport.tumblr.com doesn’t need a visa to see deliciously expensive couture.
BA Student Kathrine Gram Hvejsel won H&M’s competition in crafting designs from recycled garments.
Kolding School of Design
Dansk Fashion & Textile’s Ulla Skjødt was all smiles.
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken HØST Hansen
Kolding School of Design Yesterday, the dangerously fresh graduates of Kolding School of Design showcased their sartorial creations at an exhibition in Dansehallerne.
Mathilde Aggebo, Head of Institute at Kolding School of Design, knows a thing or two about success in the fashion industry. BA Student Johanne Dindler had designed soft garments to match the tender, silky complexion of Scoop model Martin Lekic.
BA student Mark Tan is a stylist with Storm&Marie and plans to study at the Royal College of Art in London, where he won’t be persecuted for being fabulous.
Tough-as-nails BA Student Louise Egbro believes fashion should send a powerful message. Once you go black, you never go back. BA student Camilla Ask holds hands with her human mannequin.
BA-student Amalie Francesca is the top dog of Kolding School of Design’s BA exhibition.
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Jewelry designer Maria Black indulges us in that oh-so-coveted side view.
While designer Karen Simonsen is used to keeping a stern fashion expression, TV hostess Mayianne Dinesen exploded in giggles at the site of our photographer.
Princess of pattern Stine Goya and her mysteriously handsome Thomas Hertz.
These studs are Uffe and Kim, their productions go out on a limb, with DANSK as their mag, they’re never a drag, inspiring her and him. Production assistant at Stine Goya Pernille Stevnhoved flabbergasted by fabulousness.
DJ Maria “Fedty” Barfod of the Moonspoon tribe poses with CFW’s mother superior Anne “Fiercesson” Persson.
Dansk Collective
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken HØST Hansen
Dansk Collective
DANSK Collective, hosted by our mother publication DANSK, threw a brunch Friday morning to showcase key items from some of Danish fashion’s most noteworthy labels.
Menswear designer Astrid Andersen is all about big black guys in revealing, sleeveless sports jerseys, and has conveyed the image to sartorial connoisseurs in Copenhagen and beyond.
Sporting a 1970s pornographic mustachio and a fashionably clashy pattern combination was homo-lifestyle magazine Out-and-About’s fashion writer Kenny.
Having just returned from a My Little Pony convention in Finland, singer Lina Rafn brought with her an unstoppable force of masculinity.
Emanating the delicious juices of their quirky plastic universe were jewelry designer Zarah Voigt and employee Hildur Jonsdottir. House of Montague’s Ronni Rasmussen and Martin Ahn execute Copenhagen’s staple buttoned-up look to perfection.
Lincoln Robbin-Coker, Communication Manager at NN07, revealed a delightful chest view to celebrate the key items of Danish design.
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Bruuns Bazaar’s Bjørn with strappingly gorgeous wife Ivona.
Euroman’s flamboyant fashion fiend Frederik Andersen puckers up with his minion Kristoffer.
This dude is Sune from Scoop, at handsome boys he will swoop, he’s in the fashion loop, and scouts models for his troupe.
This bodacious quartet, Mai Manniche (JEWLSCPH), Claire Ross-Brown (actress), Rikke Kampstrup (PR, nr.1), and Cecilie Hotness (hot weather girl), sizzled with sensuality. Fashion Exclusive’s Anette found the event extremely relaxing.
GrenaaBuchard interns Rikke and Thea have the faces of angels and hearts of sheer darkness.
HUGO BOSS AND EUROMAN
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken HØST Hansen
HUGO BOSS AND EUROMAN
International fashion house HUGO BOSS joined forces with magazine Euroman Thursday to get it on with eccentric fashion designers, queens of sensuality and a guard from Tivoli.
The boss of all bosses, including HUGO BOSS, Cecilia proved an excellent hostess. Eccentric designer Anker Amadeus gives you the stink-eye.
Hip hop artist Kesi Lion with original slem pige Veneda from 2pm Model Management.
HUGO BOSS’s sensuous salesmen Kent Hansen and Marius Pedersen flashed some serious man-cleavage.
HUGO BOSS’s intern Maria Hjortholm and retail manager Signe Engby underscored the event’s sensual atmosphere.
Tivoli guard Mads Svanekling displays toy soldier-couture against a royal backdrop.
Katrine (PR, Solastseason) and Jenny (Marc by Marc Jacobs) have an announcement to make: You’re basic.
dansk daily SATURDAY august 11th LOOK OF THE DAY
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look of the day BY max factor
Intense DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN allure LOOK OF THE DAY by Max Factor Words · Bea Fagerholt / Photo · Mathilde Schmidt
Foamy waves and delicate white fabrics surround the SS13 Day Birger et Mikkelsen collection, suggesting bliss and relaxation. Perfectly captured and echoed in the elegant look, where eyes are surrounded by beautiful blended hues of black. Intense smoky eyes and the powerful hair underline this intense yet leisurely feel, complementing the alluring ethnic universe captured in the collection. Key products - All by Max Factor Smoky eye effect eyeshadow · Trio eyeshadow, Precious Metal · Xperience Weightless Foundation Mastertouch Concealer · Smoky Eye Effect, Onyx · False Lash Effect FusionMascara
INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S FASHION FAIR, COPENHAGEN VENUE TAP1
PHOTO
WDV STUDIO
9 - 11 AUGUST, 2012 DEFINING THE FUTURE WWW.CPHKIDS.COM
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saturday 11.08.2012
events
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
THE BIG LUNCH 12.00-14.00 — by invitation only VISION Show Venue, Lokomotivværkstedet Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV GALLERY DRINKS WAGON 15.00-17.00 — by invitation only Gallery, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg C URBAN COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK PARTY S/S 2013 20.00-04.00 — by invitation only Charlottenborg, Nyhavn 2, Copenhagen K
COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL
STREET STYLE SEEN THROUGH AN OLYMPUS LENS 10.00-16.00 — BEAUTY — open to all Olympus, Nytorv, Copenhagen K STYLISH SHOW FOR THE LADIES AND GENTS 13.00 and 14.30 — show — open to all The Grønnegade Neighbourhood, Grønnegade, Copenhagen K CHILL TUNES & BUBBLING AFTERNOONS 13.00-15.00 — Shopping — open to all Tommy Hilfiger, Østergade 26, Copenhagen K FEED YOUR SHOE CRAVINGS 14.00 and 15.00 — Show — open to all Apair, Ny Østergade 3, Copenhagen K
show sChedule saturday 11.08.2012 B y INVITAT ION ON LY
max.tan 11.00 - Vision Show Venue Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV
max.tan
Designskolen Kolding 14.00 - VISION Show Venue Lokomotivværkstedet, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV
Designskolen Kolding
For more events and show details go to www.copenhagenfashionfestival.com
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INDIA : FASHION NOW
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