COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
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dansk daily COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK SPRING SUMMER 2012 — Thursday 04.08.2011 —
Feature — MEET THE NEW DESIGNERS Reviews — GAIA, TERMINAL 2, NINA ROBENHAGEN Max Factor Look of the day — ANNE SOFIE MADSEN
New Trend —
SAMURAI CHIC Cover photo — Anne Sofie Madsen by Anders von Greffelstejn
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Editorial —
BICYCLE TALK ”It’s like a GPS or a gut feeling, something that I inherited,” says designer Anne Remien, who graduates today from The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, in this issue of DANSK Daily. What she’s referring to is the DNA of Danish design: clean lines and an understated elegance, a fusion of a luxurious look with practical clothing. It’s a combination that suits Danish women, and not just literally; Danish fashion proverbially matches the Danish lifestyle, as well as the Danish people’s tastes in fashion. You wouldn’t need more than a taxi ride from the airport to notice that Danes make their way through the world seated on bikes. A habit that has given name to a favorite Danish pastime: bicycle talk, the small talk people exchange on the go. In fact, the cycling Danish woman is quite a source of national pride, if you ask the editor-in-chief of the trendsetting magazine Euroman, who in a recent issue celebrated her iconic status (and ability to entertain male spectators outside coffeeshops). Brands such as Bruuns Bazaar and DAY were frontrunners in launching a Danish fashion that not only excelled in offering luxurious collections of affordable ready-to-wear, but also became an easily exportable and up-to-
date symbol of Scandinavian women’s gain of freedom to tend equally to their kids and careers. This sort of relaxed elegance caters to men as well. Think Norse Projects and Mads Nørgaard. Or the guy I saw yesterday riding his Christiania bike, seating two kids, in a slim fit, light grey suit. However, it may be time for a change. We love Danish fashion, and international sales of brands like By Malene Birger indicate they’re doing well abroad as well. Lately, newcomers like Goya, Wackerhaus and Vilsbøl de Arce have introduced a bold and sculptural look, exploring the idea of fashion. But how to balance art and wearability? Dare we ask Anne Sofie Madsen? The Danish first-timer who opened Copenhagen Fashion Week yesterday proved herself well. Her collection was inspired by Miyazaki’s ani-mated Japanese film classic Princess Mononoke, a heroine renowned for her outfits as well as her general ass-kicking abilities. The same, it seems, may be said about Anne Sofie Madsen, with her sophisticated silk graphics and samurai-inspired leather vests, and let’s welcome it. We should never disregard our DNA, nor our ability to compete in a commercial market. But let’s also celebrate the art of integrating that which is daring, different and, even, foreign. Enjoy your week.
Iben Albinus Sabroe EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Iben Albinus Sabroe CREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT COORDINATOR Rozanna Fritz ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN DesignUnit SUBEDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson BEAUTY EDITOR Mikkel Hyldebrandt EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Theresa Bødkergaard WRITERS Elsebeth Moritzen, Moussa Mchangama, Rikke Dyrholm, Sille Henning, Stinne Jensen PHOTOGRAPHERS Anders von Greffelstejn, Simon B.Mørch, Sacha Maric DISTRIBUTION Cath Møss, Karen Bang Larsen PRINT Berlingske Avistryk
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www.pilgrim.dk
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — News —
NEWS —
GOLD FOR THE PRICE OF SILVER
CHANEL LOVES NORTHERN WOMEN We know that Mr. Lagerfeld loves Danish model Freja Beha (five campaigns in a row and counting), and now a new book on Chanel focus on Scandinavian and Baltic beauties. Called “Northern Women in Chanel”, the book features models like Freja, Carmen Kass and Helena Christensen. 300 different looks from Chanel are brought to life in the northern hemisphere by Swedish stylist Ingela Klemetz-Farago and her husband, photographer Peter Farago. “A fashion journey,” they call it. We’ll have to take a look at that.
Acne has moved fast in the last couple of years. With a shop opening in London and one soon to come in New York, in addition to an exciting collaboration with Lanvin, Acne is one of the strongest brands in Scandinavia at the moment. For AW11, Acne has create a capsule collection collaboration with London-based designer Daniel Silver. The collection includes both mens- and womenswear and accessories, shoes and prints, which have all been designed exclusively by Daniel Silver for Acne. Check out www.acnestudios.com to see the short film about the collaboration, which launches in October. Acnestudios.com
MOBILE APP Keep yourself updated with news, schedules, showrooms, designer info, a city guide and much more. Grab your phone and text “CFW” to +45 2290 4000 to get the free Copenhagen Fashion Week app right away.
SHOW STOPPERS Fashion duo Vilsbøl de Arce will be missed this Copenhagen Fashion Week. Having chosen to take a hiatus from the show calendar this season, the pair is taking time out to focus on the creative aspect of their fashion brand. Fans can still see the new collection in Paris in October, and may look forward to a reenergized and revamped Vilsbøl de Arce when the duo returns. vilsboldearce.com/ — page 6 —
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — News —
NEWS — dansk THE WORLD’S MOST INDEPENDENT FASHION MAGAZINE THE WORLD’S MOST INDEPENDENT FASHION MAGAZINE
something
FASHION TV
towards
this way
Missed a show or just want to revisit your favorite runway moments? Copenhagen Fashion Week suggests you check out www.tv.copenhagenfashionweek.com for all of the runway shows, backstage clips and red carpet interviews during Copenhagen Fashion Week. Press can download broadcast quality clips at www. press.copenhagenfashionweek.com.
DANISH BACON Stunning Juliane from Scoop Models is one of Denmark’s rising stars. With a cover for Vogue Italia in July 2011 and a Balenciaga campaing coming up, the Danish beauty couldn’t have had a better start, and we’re all excited about what her career will bring. Scoopmodels.com
wicked
comes
Magdalena Frackowiak photographed by Aitken Jolly
AUTUMN—WINTER 2011 ISSUE 26 GBP 5.00 DKK 90.00
DANSK Magazine out now! The new issue of Dansk magazine is out in newsstands and shops now!
PRODUCT OF THE DAY Smoky eye two-step Smoky eyes are among those looks that appear effortless but whose execution requires the skills of a pro. Or at least it used to, before the Max Factor Smoky Eye Effect Eyeshadow. The eyeshadow-on-a-stick breaks the art a la smoky down into two easy steps. Step one highlights the entire lid, and step two lets you define your eyes with a pointed tip. Of course, the degree of smoky depends on your whim and mood, and if you go for the Bronze Haze (see photo), your smoky vision will take on a golden and glamorous allure fit for everyday hustle and the average hipster bustle. One, two, easy! Max Factor Smoky Eye Effect Eyeshadow comes in four delicate shades and retails for 89 DKK
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DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — News —
NEWS — MAX FACTOR NEW TALENT AWARD 2012: AND THE NOMINEES ARE.. Who’s the next big talent in Danish fashion? The highly innovative brand Max Factor has finally revealed the nominees for New Talent Award 2012. The three skilled designers Christian Westphal, Gaia and Spon Diogo are in the running for the prestigious title and no less than DKK 150,000 and a sponsored fashion show during Copenhagen Fashion Week AW12 in February. Hurry and vote for your favorite on www.newtalentaward.dk.
IBEN’S PICK OF THE DAY Anne Sofie Madsen’s new power woman is inspired by Japanese film maker Hayao Miyazaki’s legendary animated action heroine Princess Mononoke. Raised by wolves and clad in a furry warlike fashion, she could take Angelina Jolie anytime and proves a more than generous source of inspiration for the new Danish designer.
T · I V A L S T
FASHIONABLE FIBERS F
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A brand new world of opportunities opens itself to fashion designers — and the key word is fiber. So far, sustainability in fashion has been all about producing organic cotton, but this week when Copenhagens Fashion Week invites minister for the environment Karen Elleman on a ’green walk’ in the city, the occasion is to promote companies who work with and explore new fibers for sustainable fashion. Mrs. Elleman visits MAXJENNY, who is working with recycled polyester, and a number of other designers, and urges us to buy clothes labeled with the Nordic Ecolabel or the European Ecolabel: ”It has to be easier for the consumers to show consideration for the environment, so we need the clothing stores to use the eco-labels. The Nordic Ecolabel is an excellent example of how stores and distributors implement environmental initiatives in their production and sales,” she says.
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For a unique shopping experience check out ’Pisserenden’, around Larsbjørnsstræde. You’ll find a string of cool shops and cafées, plus lots of attitude. It reminds me of Manhattan, but it’s also very Copenhagen.
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A great café is Café Den Blå Time, The Blue Hour, in St. Kongensgade, close to where I live. It has a rustic decor and walls covered with art. It’s nothing fancy, but very cozy, and the place has loads of personality. They make a decent French toast, and have a yard where you can enjoy a beer and a smoke.
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My favorite spot in the city is The King’s Garden. I love the city, but you need breathing spaces like that. On nearby Landemærket there’s a floor café, where you can buy tapas and wine in a basket...
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Pilou Asbæk enjoys an international breakthrough with the prison drama ”R” that got rave reviews in the U.S., and has been called the new Ewan McGregor. The Danish actor, who just finished shooting a new season of the popular tv-show ”Borgen”, which airs next month, is from a family of art gallerists in Copenhagen.
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INSIDE COPENHAGEN
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — News —
NEWS — POP ART REUNITED A new exhibition at the art museum Arken tells a story about the exceptional collaboration between world-famous artists Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat. They created more than 100 artworks together back in 1983-1985, and Arken has brought 65 of them together again for a special exhibition. WARHOL & BASQUIAT Arken 3. september 2011 – 11. januar 2012 Arken.dk
PAUL SMITH THE ELEPHANT If you have been around in Copenhagen this summer, you might have bumped into an elephant or two. Elephant Parade is a global outdoor exhibition that has hit Copenhagen’s streets and parks. With 102 baby elephants decorated by different artist from around the world, the project helps to raise funds for the preservation of the Asian elephant. After the success of Elephant Parade London in the summer of 2010, Paul Smith has been invited by Elephant Parade Copenhagen to design another elephant. The elephants can be seen around Copenhagen until the 25th of August. The sculptures will be auctioned off on the 9th of September at Scandic Copenhagen Hotel. Elephantparade.dk
THE ROYAL DANISH BALLET The Royal Danish Ballet is among the best ballet companies in the world and is one of my favorite Danish flagships. Under the leadership of the very talented artistic director Nikolaj Hübbe, a former ballet dancer for New York City Ballet, the ballet company is conquering the world.
ROZANNA’S PICK OF THE DAY Creative Editor Rozanna is lighting up on YSL all summer.
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DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 ——Editorial Feature ——
MADE IN DENMARK Words — Iben lbinus Sabroe
Illustrator — Rebecca Frederiksen
A NEW BREED OF DANISH DESIGNERS APPEARS TODAY WHEN THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS SHOWCASES THE COLLECTIONS OF ITS GRADUATES. TO THEM, ’MADE IN DENMARK’ SHOULD BE RELAXED, PRACTICAL ELEGANCE, BUT THERE IS ALSO RIOT IN THE AIR.
”You need to be able to bicycle to work. You tend to your career and you want to look great at work as well as at the playground with your kids after you pick them up from daycare,” says Dr. Maria MacKinney-Valentin, a fashion scholar, in summing up the premises on which modern Danish women’s fashion is built. ”You want to look great, but you want to be comfortable too. It’s imperative in Danish women’s culture. In a way, you could call it a democratic design, because it’s something everybody can be comfortable in.” This DNA of Danish design manifests itself in the collections of the designers graduating today from The Royal Academy of Fine Arts. For Kamilla Hofmann, 33, a great inspiration came from a painting by the Danish artist J. F. Willumsen. His symbolistic style inspired a silk print of a mountain in her graduation collection. “My design is very Danish, because it’s simple but elegant and you can wear it at work. I am not interested in something that is only eveningwear,” she says. As a matter of fact, Kamilla Hoffmann thinks Danish fashion should be even less flashy and feminine: ”My focus is on quality and comfort and simplicity. I have created a collection for women based on traditional masculine styles. My idea was to adapt the uniformity of classical masculine items, the shirt, trousers and the jacket, and create a women’s fashion that is feminine but very understated, and which allows the woman to wear the clothes, and not the other way around,” says the soon-to-begraduated designer, whose key items include a suit in light canvas and silk shirts. ”FOR ME, IT IS A VERY GROWN-UP COLLECTION. I COULD NOT HAVE DONE THIS WHEN I WAS YOUNGER, BUT NOW THAT I HAVE TWINS, I VERY MUCH VALUE COMFORT AS WELL AS STYLE.” ”My priority is to be innovative,” says Anne Remien, whose collection is inspired by an experience she had when visiting Mauritius last winter and couldn’t shake. “I walked into this very old, abandoned house and was struck by a fascinating atmosphere and the notions of the transitory, memories and decay.” ”I wanted to express this concept by way of fusioning clean lines with draping and
is something to riot against, especially since she thinks the comfortable, minimalistic look with clean lines and understated elegance has become too dominant abroad, as well. ”My collection is called ’Less is not enough’. It began for me as an urge to criticize or go against the whole new modest, which has ruled since the financial crisis. I couldn’t relate to that. It was too simple for my taste, and lacked ornamentation and decoration. On the other hand, I didn’t want to just pile on and go more is more. I wanted to try and find a balance between shape and ornamentation,” she says.
ornaments. For instance, I have a dress where one side is streamlined, white silk, and the other half is draped with several layers, making it look like elegant rags.” The 28-year-old graduate loves the classic clean lines, but isn’t that great a fan of the so-called democratic approach to fashion. She is a great admirer of Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, who is as much an artist as a fashion designer. To Anne Remien, the Danish influence is like an instinct that allows her to ”tone it down” if a color becomes too broady or the drapings too layered.”It’s a GPS or a gut feeling, something that I inherited.” This gut feeling is well known to her fellow student, Rebecca Frederiksen. But she has learned how to ignore it, deliberately. For the 24-year-old graduate, her inheritance
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”I have made a so-called statement collection. It’s like partywear, something for a woman to wear on special occasions. As such it’s actually quite un-Danish, perhaps un-Scandinavian. Our approach is usually that you should be able to wear a design on many different occasions, so you can go from work to a bar and still look chic. But I kind of like the idea that you wear something for a special occasion. I work with a very feminine design universe and for my graduation collection, I have focused on dresses, coats and jackets. It has allowed me to work with curves, shoulders and waist- and hemlines.” HER COLLECTION DRAWS FROM TWO PERIODS OF TIME, WHICH ARE SIMILAR IN HISTORY, BUT VERY DIFFERENT WHEN YOU LOOK AT THE FASHION OF THE TIME: THE 20S AND THE LATE 40S. Both eras were influenced by wars, but the 20s art deco presented an androgynous, slim look with graphic ornamentation, while Dior’s New Look from 1947 was more feminine and pompous. So pompous in fact, it was criticized for its abundant use of fabric – for the swinging A-skirts. ”I work with cutouts to create the ornamentation of art deco that can be seen in the aesthetic’s architecture; think of the Chrysler building in New York, how the graphic on the tower becomes an ornamentation. I have a dress that sort of sums up my concept: It has a wide, bold A-line, but the top is more stringent and characterized by cutouts that make the skin appear to be an ornamentation. I have consciously tried to separate myself from a typical Danish look or style,” says Rebecca Frederiksen, whose classmates say it reminds them of Versace. ”I said ’hopefully Gianni?’ And they said ’yes’. To my relief.”
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DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Shows —
ANNE SOFIE MADSEN
SAMURAI SPIRIT Words — Stinne Jensen
Photo — Sacha Maric
The official opening show of Copenhagen Fashion Week started off to the sound of taiko — traditional samurai drums — and first-timer Anne Sofie Madsen’s cool, distinctive SS12 collection brought forth by bronze-faced girls. Inspired by Japanese animation films like Princess Mononoke, the collection’s samurai theme did not go unnoticed. Kimono-style dresses and origami-like pleats were mixed up in a simple range of colors — black, gray, white, nude — with Japanese references throughout. With a few exceptions, an extreme amount of detailing adorned every style. Quilts on shoulders, pleat-pattern dresses, cutout waistlines and complex string designs made each shirt, dress and cover up a masterpiece of its own. Collection standouts included printed silk pieces with Anne Sofie Madsen’s bleak pastel drawings, tight mesh dresses with leather cutouts, cool asymmetric cover ups with broad shoulders and straps, and pleat pattern dresses. See-through mess, leather and silk dominated the fabrics, and the consistent play with contrast in choice of materials gave the collection a look that mixed toughness with fragility. The girls’ identical bronze look and samurai-sword braids underscored this softtough juxtaposition. Anne Sofie Madsen was an excellent choice for this fashion week’s launch with what will surely be remembered as a standout collection.
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ADD
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DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Shows —
GULDKNAPPEN
TRUE TO THEIR DNA Words — Sille Henning
Photo — Sacha Maric
Yesterday, the Danish weekly fashion magazine Alt for Damerne presented its design award Guldknappen (The Golden Button) for the 28th time. This season, Danish designer Lene Borggaard from the long-standing fashion label InWear received the prize. Borggard came to InWear from a position as Head Designer at Bruuns Bazaar in 2007, and since then, she has breathed new life into the fashion house. While maintaining the commercial focus the label is known for, Borggaard has added a sharper, modern feel — an accomplishment she was rewarded for yesterday, and which was apparent in the collection presented. The look was thorough and sharp, the silhouettes slim, and there were rolled-up pants, slouchy blazers, and oversized envelope clothes. The color palette was mainly kept in black, white, and grey, mixed with all shades of blue. A collection that lived up to InWear’s DNA and its many followers’ expectations. Last year, Alt for Damerne initiated another prize, Sølvtråden (The Silver Thread), an award for upcoming designers. This season it was given to Nue Notes, a young designer label founded four years ago by Anne-Dorte Larsen and Katrine Rabjerg. The collections are based on what the two designers would like to wear themselves, which has given the label a strong signature of basic wardrobe classics with a modern and personal twist, which easily came across in the new SS12 collection they showed yesterday. It featured white broderie and plenty of flaired pants, some in denim, stripes and light colors, all topped off with big bows, giving it a 70s feel. An easy to wear collection well in line with the typical Scandinavian girl.
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DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Shows —
JEWLSCPH
OPENING THE JEWELRY BOX Words — Sille Henning
Photo — Sacha Maric
In a shielded part of the shopping area of Gallery K, located in the heart of Copenhagen, designer Mai Manniche presented her new Spring Summer 2012 jewelry collection. It was the young designer’s first solo show, and she had even designed the models’ dresses herself — not, however, for commercial purposes. The new collection featured Manniche’s well-known chandelier earrings, large drop earrings, layered necklaces of both finer and chunkier varieties, with shape explorations that featured different kinds of circles. There was also a variety of the designer’s power-necklaces and Zodiac sign-necklaces. There were precious stones, sterling silver, 24 carat goldplated sterling silver and other fine materials. The designs showed a lot of variety, with something for every kind of woman, staying true to the label’s eclectic mission.
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DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Shows —
CPH VISION
BLACK SIMPLICITY Words — Elsebeth Mouritzen
Photo — Sacha Maric
Minimalism can be interpreted in many ways. Going monochrome can be very difficult, as it leaves everything to cut and fabric. Yet the exhibitors at CPH Vision had no reason for worry when their clothes were put in the hands of master stylist Kim Grenaa for the trend show Wednesday. Grenaa chose the royal surroundings of the lush and green yet strict, architectural city garden Amaliehaven as catwalk and backdrop for his carefully picked clothes. The headlines for the four themes read Clean Cut, Minimal Lux, Oriental Glamour and Black Kink, but the recurring motif that characterized the show in its entirety was black simplicity, interspersed with a few items in saffron, aqua, white, beige and silver. Beautifully cut clothes over healthy, glowing skin were a true feast for the eyes. The show boasted fluid lines draping around the body to soften the strict design, fabrics in silks, cottons and cashmere to give a luxurious touch, and little details like ruffles or pleats to add femininity, particularly present in the design of native Danes Ilse Jacobsen, Epoque by Edith & Ella and House of Lykke. The edgy side of black minimalism played out in full force in a Helmut Newton-inspired 40s/80s styling of stricter suit dressing from Benedikte Utzon and Soaked In Luxury, complete with net-covered faces and military caps, some of the models gagged and hands tied up with velvet ribbons. Providing contrast was the Asian variation of minimalism, with hues and prints against the black and white leaving a lovely outfit of a simple belted sage sweater and a billowing transparent burgundy skirt to assure us that colors will also do.
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DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Shows —
CIFF TREND/ CIFF KIDS
FUN AT THE FASHION FAIR Words — Elsebeth Mouritzen
Photo — Sacha Maric
In a world that seems to prefer natural beauty and casual attitudes, it’s nice to know that future generations know how to strike a serious pose, knee bent and hand on waist. The youngest model, a shy blond toddler in a pink jumpsuit, stole the CIFF Kids Show in front of her more experienced, dancing pre-teen peers. Always a fun and energetic experience, the separate young version of the trend show aims at inspiring buyers, and shares the four main themes of the commercial exhibition hall Bella Center with the grown-ups. The themes, outlined by French forecaster Peclers Paris, offered four different directions for Spring-Summer with due respect for the Scandinavian love of anything easy-towear. The kids’ collections proved just that. Lots of clothes fit for the playground, school and skater park — with denims, khakis and t-shirts in a variety of muted blues and beiges, juxtaposed with colorful prints as well as a take on preppy-romantic outfits for a visit to grandma with polos, jackets and lace dresses. The kids were a hard act to follow, but the main CIFF trend show cut to the bone and focused on the essence of each theme, offering a simpler, quieter show with only 12 models to display the trends in a more concentrated way. For extra variety, each trend was styled by four individual stylists, with Vilsbøl de Arce adding spectacular cuttingedge leather show pieces to the desert colors and a sleek, natural look with Middle Eastern influences in “New Edge”. Lots of African influences were present in the tribalthemed “Urban Jungle” in mainly brown prints, whereas old-fashioned charm and sensual elegance prevailed in nudes, peach and rose in “Soft Alternative”. This summer’s love of color (blocking) survives another year in “Technicolor,” which features a vibrant Miami-palette, emphasizing the other reason for getting dressed (other than protection of the body) — to have some fun, and show it too! Kids’ show daily 12:00 and 15:00, Trend Show Thursday/Friday 11:00 and 14:00, Saturday/Sunday 13:00.
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DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Shows —
TRASH COUTURE
TRASHY BALLERINAS DANCE AT GALLERY Words — Moussa Mchangama
As the name of the brand implies, Trash Couture is all about couture — eco-friendly couture, that is. A theme-based collection of one-off evening dresses, corsets and bridal gowns appeared on the Gallery runway, all based on the most girlish of themes; clearly the designer has watched the Academy Award-winning movie Black Swan, sending tulle- and feather-clad models down the runway in white, nude, shades of green and the lossof-innocence black (the show even included three ballet dancers). All the embroidery and beading, the soft color palette and the almost insane amounts of tulle and feathers gave the show an over-the-top feeling; this is definitely not for the plane Janes out there (for proof, just look to all the celebrities carrying Trash Couture, from Cindy Lauper to Celine Dion, or the worldrenowned stores selling the label). Rather, one should clearly study the dresses up close, enjoying the great amount of work put into these pieces that give every girl the chance of becoming prima ballerina for a night or two.
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Photo — Sacha Maric
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DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Shows —
STINE LADEFOGED
KNITTED NEWS Words — Stinne Jensen
Photo — Sacha Maric
Experimental knitwear seems to be the mission of Danish designer Stine Ladefoged and her SS12 collection Mystery Forest, showed at the Danish Music Academy venue. And Ladefoged did not miss her target. The wooden hall stood as a warm backdrop to the white runway and crackled show soundtrack. The collection consisted of classic knitwear styles — cardigans, dresses and jumpers — ornamented with different knitted, braided or draped knit-bangers, giving the classics a reinterpreted and very different expression. Focal points included shoulders and décolletage adorned with braided knit resembling necklaces, spider web vest coats and military decorations draped symmetrically over each shoulder. The basic styles under all the knit detailing were kept almost anonymously simple, and were only sporadically decorated with a leather trim. The knit varied from super thin and lightweight to heavy and chunky accompanied by a small number of soft jersey styles. Ever-flattering black, white, rusty and dusty blue made the color scheme and the monochromatic use of the few colors gave the collection a calm, refined and very wearable feel.
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Agnes. Moscow. Hotel Metropol.
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Shows —
ANNE VEST
BLACK FOOT, PALE FACE Words — Rikke Dyrholm
Photo — Sacha Maric
Fur house Anne Vest’s summer collection revealed a penchant for darkness and sophisticated casual. With the audience seated in old, cosy armchairs, enjoying a glass of sparkling wine, the models walked slowly onto the runway, reflecting the casual setting. Feet painted black entered the whitest catwalk. A few of the models were even bare breasted – revealing more white. The collection, too, was kept firmly in black and white, disrupted only by brown. The main focus was on flattering the female body through downplayed masculine features. Once again, Anne Vest struck a balance between cotton and furs. Long, sculptured dresses in heavy materials with racer backs, rock-inspired leather jackets and edgy leggings dominated the collection and underscored the dark theme, while tight cotton silhouettes and figural T-shirts added a touch of glamour. Among the standouts were exaggerated long sleeves, a long leather dress with a semi-transparent back and leather vests. All in all the collection appeared ready-to-wear, underplayed rock and glamour twisted and yet basic – leaving room for feminine individuality. .
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DEN SVENSKE VITAMINDRIK
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Shows —
GAIA
GENDER BENDING WITH GAIA Words — Moussa Mchangama
Photo — Sacha Maric
Gaia Brandt, the designer behind Gaia, gave her vision of the look for SS12 at the Gallery show scene, sticking to the design vision that she presented at her debut last season. And as far as her vision goes, it’s clear that she’s playing with androgyny and gender, masculinity and femininity. For spring, the colors are light. Pastels in blue and yellow, a light dusted green and light denim are contrasted by black and some burgundy stripes in sweaters. There’s still a lot of the designer’s signature knitwear, featuring knits with bow ties, buttons and collars. Likewise, the combined shorts and skirts (skorts?) could also be found again. The fit is loose, especially in the oversize denim shirts and vests contrasting the fitted green trousers. Gaia presents a very special universe, but from the loud cheering at the final applause, it’s clear that she has quite the following in Copenhagen. As one of the nominees for next year’s Max Factor New Talent Award, she is one to watch — whether you share her idea of design or not.
— page 26 —
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Shows —
NINA ROBENHAGEN
FOREVER AFTER BEFORE Words — Rikke Dyrholm
Photo — Sacha Maric
The term lady-like was taken to a whole other level, or rather back to an elegant past, when Nina Robenhagen Wednesday night presented her SS/12 collection at City Hall. The show revealed a fondness for the early 40s with nods to religious traditions interacting with a true dedication to the rock band The Doors. To the tunes of the legendary rock band, the models passed the audience dressed in a true middle-class 40s spirit, wearing knee-long skirts and dresses, sleeveless tops, classic-tailored shirts, and cotton shorts — all of which were held in a burned and somewhat Southern Europe-inspired color palette with deviant shades like burned orange, green, dark purple, camel and light grey. The collection featured some outstanding materials including laces, embroidery, velvet and taffeta, which underscored the period inspiration. Influenced by fashion heavyweights, the show closed with a bride — a full-born nostalgic wedding dress, laces defining the upper body along with a big flower on the top of her head, veil graced with flower petals that floated behind.
— page 27 —
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Shows —
TERMINAL-2
THE ACCIDENTAL TOURIST Words — Elsebeth Mouritzen
Photo — Sacha Maric
One couldn’t help but wonder what went through the minds of the many tourists whose evening stroll along the quays of Copenhagen to see The Little Mermaid was interrupted by an open air fashion show dockside that interpreted the hippest streetwear from the Terminal-2 exhibition hall as cliché tourist looks, complete with Hawaiian shirts under sports jackets, artificially colorful lei’s, cameras and mismatched cut-offs as shorts. It was amusing from the very moment a fishing boat anchored outside Amaliehaven to the tunes of the late Danish crooner Otto Brandenburg and tongue-in-cheek band The Happy Sailors, and models clad in a fresh take on the nautical trend disembarked and used the cobblestones as runway. The popular striped T’s and sweaters were teamed with low-slung cutoff jeans, highwaisted shorts and sweatpants, followed by the tourist theme, looking quite hip when paraded with lots of attitude and street cred. Hosting cutting edge brands that cater to young customers eager to express themselves with a sense of humor, Terminal-2 completed its trend show with a bevy of tough guys and sexy women disguised as port workers and pin-up girls. Plaid shirts, jeans, leather jackets and short skirts were matched with sneakers and Doc Martens for a nice semi-punk rather than obviously naughty look.
— page 28 —
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DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Very Important Princesses —
MAX FACTOR PRESENTATION — Words — Magnus Jorem
The dark-haired Veronica celebrates another triumph over Betty. Archie is mine this fashion week!
Photographer — Simon B Mørch
Just a regular dude taking in the fabulous Max Factor beauty secret revelations. DAFI’s tough nugget Naja and her squad of shaded beauty queens found the presentation a true delight.
Model students of the Ladies who Lunch school. “Listen very carefully, girls, I shall explain this only once.” Head makeup artist Mina Ingerslev demonstrates the Max Factor technology. Mother superior of Danish Fashion Institute Eva Kruse just wouldn’t sit down during the presentation.
Two fashionistas back in black in honor of the recently deceased Amy Winehouse.
The prince of the international beautyverse, Mikkel Hyldebrandt, is eager to sign autographs with his favorite beauty secret, the Max Factor Iced Magenta Pink Lipstick.
A HOARD OF MAKEUP LOVERS WERE GATHERED TO TAKE IN THE BIGGEST BEAUTY SECRETS OF MAX FACTOR’S MINA INGERSLEV WEDNESDAY.
Scandinavian fashion designer friends Trine Wackerhausen and Veronica B. Vallenes were all smiles.
Designer Mads Nørgaard and writer Lotte Freddie discuss the latest fashion blunder committed by their peers.
— page 30 —
Gælder så længe lager haves. Forbehold for trykfejl.
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299,MAG*S MAGASIN BLONDETOP
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Very Important Princesses —
WOOD WOOD —
Words — Magnus Jorem
Coco, a rising star songstress, shared drinks and laughs with television mastermind and future media mogul Issa.
Photographer — Simon B Mørch
Stylist-blogger-fashionista-gangsta Andree Hoxfeldt joined glamorous rising jewelry designer (and future fierce cat lady) Kia Utzon a.k.a. Katharina Gigastar.
This paper’s high-pace creative editor Rozanna with ferocious nipple-biter and contemporary artist extraordinaire Anika Lori.
Euroman fashion editor Frede Andersen flanked b Copenhagen’s top hip hop & RnB DJ Mads Emil.
Recently married Piff-Paff-Partners Maria and Christel made an appearance (no, they didn’t get married to each other)
Top dog and name sake of Malling Publications Malene Malling and her latest man machine, Wood Wood’s Kenny.
STREETWEAR ELECTRIFIERS WOOD WOOD OPEN A NEW STORE THIS WEEK, A FEAT CELEBRATED BY THE FIERCE, THE FEROCIOUS AND THE FABULOUS. Caroline Plummer fooling around with some soccer player.
The “Mussi” team, consisting of Philip, Mischa, Ronny, and Torsten, love giving each other pet nicknames that are cuter than kittens and snowflakes combined.
Heidi Hardgrove, ex-member of the DANSK Daily team and muse of a thousand music festivals, brought her unimpressed fashionista friends to the event. Rising star rapper Kidd and fashion model Veneda refused to look into the camera.
Lotte, Karl, Biv - the masterminds behind Wood Wood.
— page 32 —
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Very Important Princesses —
KØBENHAVNER LAUNCH — Words — Magnus Jorem
Photographer — Simon B Mørch
Ethilia and Nilia, yet another pair of young, ambitious fashion bloggers ready to revolutionize the industry.
Eccentric photographer Annemie by Dreves brought her girlfriend for some serious Københavner-socialite introductions. Ronny gets intimate with Eddie, who recently returned to Prada-level modeling after a gap-year of battling Somali pirates on the seven seas.
Model/blogger Christel and fashion designer Mads both grabbed Københavner, believing it to be a catalog of naked images of Kidd and other rising hip hop artists.
FASHIONISTAS BLENDED WITH ANTI-FASHION REVOLUTIONARIES FOR THE MUCH-AWAITED LAUNCH OF THE MAGAZINE KØBENHAVNER WEDNESDAY EVENING.
Frederikke (middle) is the alleged girlfriend of CFW-phenomenon Simon Rasmussen.
I don’t know who these girls are but they look friendly.
The brains behind Københavner Djuna Barnes and sensitive male fashionisto Chris Pedersen Copenhagen vintage king Jesper swinging his tote bag for radiohostess Emma Leth.
This mag’s so fresh we’re already over the party.
Model papa Jesper Thomsen, known in the Danish tabloids as “the fashion boss”, is always there to hold the hand of ex-boyfriend Chris.
— page 33 —
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Very Important Princesses —
SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE — Words — Magnus Jorem
Photographer — Simon B Mørch
Frederik Bjerregaard and Sophie Bille Brahe teamed up!
Fashion designer Stine Goya and husband Thomas
Trine K and Thomas from Very, whom the cameras love so very very much
TV hostess Andrea Elisabeth Rudolph and fashion attitude friend.
MULBERRY — Words — Magnus Jorem
Photographer — Simon B Mørch
ELLE muses Mie and Cecilie.
Songstresses Maria and Schirley go for the “For Lækker til Love-Gustav” look this season.
Fashion fox Susanne Madsen and her Mulberryloving co-conspirator.
Actress Christiane Schaumburg Møller (of the expensive hair extensions) and friend.
Colorful fashion personalities.
DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Look of the day —
LOOK OF THE DAY BY MAX FACTOR Words — Mikkel Hyldebrandt
Photo — Simon B. Mørch
THE MAKE UP At a glance, this heavily bronze-highlighted look seems almost exaggeratedly Glamorous. The Metallic Sheen Marks The Entire Face, Giving The Skin A Supernatural Allure, Which Seamlessly Flows Into And Around The Eye Area And Gives The Lips A Distinct Metallic Pout. Take A Closer Look And The Makeup Conveys The Illusion Of A Female Warrior, Fierce But Marked By Her Struggles. Glamorous Yet Guarded, Stained And Striking. This Glamazonic Combatant Uses Her Metallic Sheen To Both Lure In And Ward Off Her Opponents Depending On Her Ever-Shifting Mood. Because As We Are All Aware, It’s A Jungle Out There… THE HAIR The braids seem to go on forever and forever in this natural yet glamorous look. The hair is kept in place by a touch of mousse which gives control but no glossy finish. And instead of a hair band the ends of the braids have been applied a fixing gel to keep them from coming undone. KEY PRODUCTS Max Factor Second Skin Foundation — Max Factor Mastertouch Concealer Max Factor Eyebrow Pencil, Hazel no. 02 — Max Factor Smokey Eye Effect, Bronze Haze Max Factor Bronzing Powder no. 02 —Max Factor Colour Collections Lipstick, Cinder no. 859 Wella Professionals Sculpt Force Gel — Wella Professionals Natural Volume Styling Mousse
— page 36 —
Oscar. Suzdal.. Vladimir Oblast. Russia.
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DANSK DAILY Thursday 04.08.2011 — Schedule —
SHOW SCHEDULE Thursday 04.08.2011 by invitation only
16.00, NIMB, Bernstorffsgade 5, Copenhagen V
VERONICA B. VALLENES
10.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V
DANMARKS DESIGNSKOLE
17.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V
STINE GOYA
11.00, Aller Media, Havneholmen 33, Copenhagen V
BENEDIKTE UTZON
18.00, Silkegade 8, Copenhagen K
BRUUNS BAZAAR
12.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V
MAGNUS LÖPPE
19.00, Pistolstræde, Copenhagen K
MUNTHE PLUS SIMONSEN
13.00, NIMB, Bernstorffsgade 5, Copenhagen V
WACKERHAUS
20.00, Post Danmark, Tietgensgade 37, Copenhagen V
SOULLAND
14.00, City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V
JEAN / PHILLIP
21.00, Ny Tap Plads, Pasteursvej 48, Copenhagen V
DESIGNERS REMIX
15.00, The Royal Danish Academy of Music, Concert Hall, Rosenørns Allé 22, Frederiksberg
TABERNACLE TWINS
EVENTS
Thursday 04.08.2011
PETER JENSEN OPENING RECEPTION
10.00-12.00, Bredgade 68, Copenhagen K, Designmuseum Danmark, by invitation only
SING TEHUS PRESENTS VIBE HARSLØF 11.00-18.00, Skindergade 25, Copenhagen K, Sing Tehus, open to the public
22.00,City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V
BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
MOONSPOON SALOON: SONS AND DAUGHTERS
21.00-00-00, Nygade 4, Copenhagen K, One Day Gallery
THE GIVE BACK - THE OFFICIAL COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK PARTY 22.00-03.00, Kødboderne 3, Copenhagen V, KB3, by invitation only
DAVID ANDERSEN FASHION PARTY
FASHION ON STAMPS - PRESS MEETING
22.00-05.00, Nørregade 41, Copenhagen K Zen, after 23.00 open to the public
YDE SS12 PRESENTATION
23.00-04.00, Store Strandstræde 14, Copenhagen K, Simons , by invitation only
11.00-12.00, City Hall, The Banquet Room, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V
15.00-16.30, Bredgade 3, Copenhagen K, Klassisk Møbelkunst , by invitation only.
SOULLAND SHOW AFTER PARTY
MADS NØRGAARD/ARTHUR MEEHAN RECEPTION
FASHION FESTIVAL
Reception for Arthur Meehan exhibition and launch of design collaboration between Nørgaard Paa Strøget and Anywho, by invitation only
FASHION WEEK ON THE GO
Thursday 04.08.2011
17.00-20.00, Amagertorv 13 & 15, Copenhagen K
2ND DAY / COVER
18.00-21.00, Pilestræde 16, Copenhagen K
06.00-04.00, Kongens Nytorv Metro Station, Copenhagen K For the first time ever you can get the latest footage from the Copenhagen Fashion Week runways at the Kongens Nytorv Metro station!
— page 38 —
DRIVE THE RACE OF YOUR LIFE AT BOSS
10.00-18.00, Boss Store, Østergade 15, Copenhagen K
MEET MALENE’S MAN 15.00-18.00, By Malene Birger, Antonigade 10, Copenhagen K By Malene Birger presents its gorgeous new autumn collection “The Man” at the store in Antonigade. GET SPORTY FOR FASHION WEEK 16.00-17.00, Jack & Jones, Vimmelskaftet 36-38, Copenhagen K All week long, Jack & Jones celebrate their sports line Premium Tech with lots of competitions and gimmicks.
FACE OF MAX FACTOR
10.00-19.00, Magasin, Ground Floor, Kongens Nytorv 13, Copenhagen K Max Factor invites you to a modeling competition during Fashion Festival in Magasin, MakeupLab.dk.
THREE DESIGNERS, THREE APPROACHES 18.00-20.00, Urban Outfitters, Østergade 42, Copenhagen K
Enjoy an exhibition of the collections of three Scandinavian designers at Urban Outfitters and take delight in goodie bags, free drinks, and music.
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