COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
THE DA ILY The Daily COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
Autumn / Winter 2015
SPRING / SUMMER 2017
California cool King of detail GANNI
MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN
Floral mantra Pink perfection LOVECHILD 1979
BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
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Sold out Elsebeth Mouritzen
in the end, the makers of fashion. While the Danish fashion producers were jubilant over the 5 pct. increase of sales last year, they are a little more hesitant of their expectations for 2016, because the turnover for the first quarter of this year decreased, according to the Dansk Fashion and Textile organistation, and members are now holding their breath to see if Brexit will affect exports. However important that is, the home market is also in dire need of stabilization.
Editor-in-chief
For example; in France, they have a state regulated sales period, which everyone follows, and it is not before the height of the season! In Denmark, some of the few, who do not have more than a month with sales signs all over the place, are several of the European luxury brands with own flagship stores in Copenhagen – and a very smart businessman such as Mads Nørgaard. He, and his father before him, has maintained a short sales period in their stores at the end of each season, and it has become a crowd-puller, because it is a limited time only.
The other solution could be not to sell the
If the consumers get used to constant cheap deals, often fueled by fast fashion express deliveries every 6th week, with resulting reductions on all other merchandise, it dilutes the value of shopping a quality product, and could turn the fashion business into a discount business. And thinking of all the work, care and passion that goes into designing clothes, fashion deserves better.
PUBLISHER Copenhagen Fashion Week
ASSISTANT EDITOR Frederik Højgaard
COVER PHOTO Luka Roné
SALES AND DISTRIBUTION Michelle Christensen
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen
COPY EDITING Louis Vernal
PRINT Trykkkompagniet
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Anne Christine Persson
WRITERS Lotte Freddie, Courtney Forrest Jeppe Ugelvig, Elsebeth Mouritzen, Frederik Højgaard
PHOTOGRAPHERS Helena Lundquist, Luka Roné All show photos provided by Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Admittingly, even I love a good bargain, however I worry that the constant price reductions all year round is devaluating. Not only for the stores and the brands, but also for the perception of fashion as something not important enough, or worth spending a reasonable amount of money on. And this could become a recurring problem for the retail business, and
CONTRIBUTORS
At a recent seminar in New York, industry people worried about the same thing, even though sales, outlets and general price reductions almost every week is commonplace in a very competitive market, where price point is king. One observer said that “sales periods are the clock you’re racing against”, pointing out that the longer the shelf life of an item, the better chance of selling it at full price, according to Vogue.com. One of the suggestions as to beating this development is to move products into a core collection, that won’t go on sale, and the design will remain, season after season. Also known as a classic.
season’s clothes at much reduced prices, before it has even begun! In Denmark there used to be two annual sales at end of the major seasons, but the sales frenzy of recent years, in order to earn a fast buck, is forcing many on their knees with a domino effect on everyone in the business.
ART DIRECTOR Thomas Blankschøn
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Invitation Join us on Copenhagen Fashion Festival Event at Købmagergade 13 from 16 –19 on Friday 12 August marimekko.com
@marimekkodesignhouse
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Education: MA womenswear Royal College of Art, London Start: 2015 What’s new: The launch of her eponymous label, Revolver exhibitor Technique “ I’ve always found great inspiration in traditional techniques such as quilting, patchwork, knit and appliqué embroidery. As a designer, I find it important to pay my respects to the proud traditions of craftsmanship. By innovating classic techniques, I want my designs to communicate that something ordinary can turn out refined and different. “
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Generation next
Cecilie Bahnsen
Inspiration “ I don’t always work with a directed inspiration or theme for my collections. It’s more based on feelings that turn into a thorough process, where I work with textile development and put a strong focus on details and finish to create new and interesting designs. I see my designs as simple canvasses with feminine and delicate embroideries and fabric combinations. “ Innovation “ After the completion of my studies at the Royal College of Art in London, I’ve been lucky enough to design for some of the most acknowledged international fashion brands in both Paris, London and Copenhagen. I have always had a strong wish to create unique designs, where craftsmanship is put in the pride of place, which recently led me to establish my own brand, Cecilie Bahnsen. I strive to create and define new, unique silhouettes from carefully selected and developed fabrics that bring something extra to the Danish fashion scene. “ Would love to dress “ Sofia Coppola; love her style and the beautiful universe she creates in her movies. I’ve always been strongly inspired by her ability to show rather than tell in her work. Especially in Virgin Suicides, I was drawn to the delicate and feminine universe that enclosed a rather dark story line - and I’d love to dress the five Lisbon sisters in the film. ”
The Daily Green:
Rey Rey Brand: ReyRey Designer: Rey Abadi Start: 2016. What’s new: immediate global launch. “Sustainability is an unavoidable part of the future. Not only do I have a personal interest in the subject, it is in my opinion also a very important part of life. I am particularly passionate about the ethical and social issues including the human aspects of health and safety, so it is a must that the factory employees are protected, that there are
no minors in work etc. This is also one of the reasons that I am not producing in the east. In Italy, I visit the factories on a regular basis and see all aspects within the producing process, and talk with employees - that way I can ensure that all conditions are acceptable. At the same time, I focus on the shoes being produced from an approach with the least possible impact on the environment and animal welfare. That is precisely why it is important
to cooperate with factories and producers who are working from the same set of values and have the same culture. The modern consumer is very focused on the story of the product. This way they can choose what fits into their lives and life values. I believe this part will be an even bigger demand in the future. For ReyRey this is the only way to go.”
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Clothesline with a message As one of the most polluting industries in the world, it goes without saying that cleaning up the fashion industry is an important cause. Naturally, greener production methods are key - a more sustainable garment can be achieved via anything from eco-textiles over recycling and waste management - but, equally important, consumer behaviour accounts for a whopping 40 % of all climate impact related to clothing. In other words, changing how we buy, treat, wash, dry, and dispose of our clothes is paramount if we wish to reduce fashion’s carbon footprint. An easy place to start is hang drying your laundry. As a gentle reminder, these days the
Three times a winner The international recognition of Danish designers seems to continue with awards and sponsorships, writes FashionForum.dk Just last week Anne Sofie Madsen was honoured a place on the Swarowski Collective Programme 2017 that enables her to work for a year with maximum attention on digital and print media as well as social media while incorporating crystals into her design. Recently upcoming designer Niels Gundtoft Hansen won the fashion category in the International Talent Support contest in Italy among 38 finalists. Part of the prize is an internship with either Diesel or Martin Margiela, and the fringe benefit was an instant job offer from Brioni. The team behind Tonsure, Malthe Flagstad and Adam El-Zayat, also seem to be good at contests. The winners of last year’s DANSK Design Talent – Magasinprisen, took home the trophy as European winners of the Woolmark Prize in menswear, and are now ready for the global finale in London next January with 50.000 Aussie dollars in their back pockets. Photo courtesy of Simon Hansen.
City Hall Square features a giant clothesline installation, decorated with GOTS-certified t-shirts with sustainably printed messages like “wash at 30 degrees”, and “95 of all clothes are recyclable.” The message is simple; an easy place to start is to clean your clothes right (always air-dry) and pass on the never-worn garments that are filling up your closet. Tomorrow’s Fashion Exchange at City Hall Square, opening at 11:00, is designed to make the latter a little more fun - bring what you don’t need anymore, take home everything you like.
Sweet tradition A recurring event during Copenhagen Fashion Week is the special fashion cakes made by Denmark’s oldest confectionary La Glace from 1870 in collaboration with big designers like Mads Nørgaard, Malene Birger and Jesper Høvring. This season they team up with Cecilie Elisabeth Rudolph, a Central Saint Martin’s graduate, who has returned to Denmark to set up her own design studio with textiles and print as her force. She recently made a textile-design project, Food As An Image, which was inspired by the Danish food culture, and based on that, she has designed, developed and decorated six differently themed windows in a creative constellation of textile and cake at La Glace. The confectioners, in return, have interpreted her own taste for sweets and created a French macaroon with gooseberry and cinnamon to be sold during fashion week and until the end of the month, where the exhibition also expires. Photos courtesy of Per Krogh.
Brexit may impact fashion growth In 2015, Danish fashion producers were jubilant over the increase of 5% in sales compared to the previous year. This is the highest turnover figure the industry has ever realised, but sales figures from the first quarter of 2016 show that growth has now been put on hold. Even though the Danish fashion producers increased their exports by 1.6%, as a whole, the turnover in the fashion industry declined by 0.5% compared with the same period last year. This development was followed up by Brexit, and that will have an impact on the fashion industry which sold DKK 1.7 billion worth of clothes to the British last year, predicts Michael Hillmose, international manager and analysis coordinator in Dansk Fashion and Textile. - We don’t yet know the full effect of Brexit,
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but it could well have an impact on Danish fashion exports to the United Kingdom. Right now, we can see the specific effect it is having on the exchange rate for the British pound. Brexit is particularly unfortunate for the fashion industry, because in 2015 exports increased by 25% and many businesses have made really strong inroads into the market. He explains that a slump in sales in the United Kingdom will be apparent in the industry’s general turnover: - Should we see stagnation, or even a decrease, in exports to the United Kingdom, it is clear that this will have a negative impact on the industry’s overall growth. Dansk Fashion and Textile has conducted a survey among companies operating in the industry. The companies’ responses show
that, as a natural consequence of Brexit, they don’t expect to see growth in the UK. On the other hand, they have great faith in continued growth in Germany, and in Scandinavia too the majority expect sales to increase. Thus, 2016 may well end up being better than the interim figures indicate. Michael Hillmose still believes that companies in the industry have reason to be optimistic: - Fashion companies have previously shown themselves to be capable of achieving growth in difficult times, as was evident during, for example, the financial crisis. At the same time, the companies’ earnings have improved, and they are both organizationally and economically equipped to deal with the challenging market conditions, he concludes.
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Dojo bros
HAN KJØBENHAVN
Time: 19.00 Place: A Hallen Words: Courtney Forrest
The breaking news at Han Kjøbenhavn for Spring/Summer 2017 was the debut of its first official women’s range. Designers Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen and Tim Faith Hancock were inspired by martial arts and “Frank Dux posters that dominated our teenage room while we fought our schoolmates in self-taught Wing Chun.” The music of Ros Seresyothea filled the massive Bella Center space, where in the center stood a foreboding installation of what appeared to be some sort of torture device. Four masked men took their seats and began to pedal, propelling the massive hands on each end to spin and “slap” models in the face at random. Function was the focus - jackets of wool, silk and rayon; jersey and poly crew necks and pants; cotton track tops and tees. Coats were standouts – after all “Danish summer” often feels like October. Deconstructed pieces - pants with exposed zippers and inverted pleated pockets, shirtings with unfinished hems – had a fresh edge. It went wrong when things got too literal - Japanese “logos” on nearly every piece (without the benefit of show notes, translation unclear); smocked boxing shorts that should never see the light of day outside a dojo, a martial arts school. The styling - each look finished off with white socks and black brogues - read at times ‘dad fetching the morning newspaper’, at other times ‘Johnny “Sweep the Leg” Lawrence escaping a “Brokedown Palace”-esque prison camp Cobra Kai style.’ One can only hope the brand’s stylish devotees can somehow make it all work.
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#PoulStig gets you on the #FrontCover
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Inventive luxury MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN Time: 11.00 Place: Musiktorvet Words: Lotte Freddie
Four design prizes in three years – who can compete with that? Not many. And certainly very few in Denmark can outdo Mark Kenly Domino Tan when it comes to luxury high fashion. Except for the show location - the Music Square in Amager - it could have been Dior. That’s what the clothes felt like and indeed reminded one of: The outstanding craftsmanship, the high quality materials, the Bar-like jacket in a lovely light blue bouclé, and the ankle length full skirts. Sleeves have other Mark Tan refinements: shirt sleeves are cut ample over the cuff; are puffed over the elbow with a narrow bow tie, or designed as doubles with an extra open outer sleeve ending in a trumpet cuff. The designer is a fiendish detail creator– blouses are bound low in the back; trousers tied under the knee; belts closed high on the body. Short jackets have a toreador feel; blouses a trench coat silhouette, and striped shirt dresses (in next summer’s big colour: sky blue) are closed with a wrap skirt. It is all very classic; some styles are reworked repeats from earlier seasons, “you don’t need something new every week” the designer proclaims. But every piece is thought anew often using furniture textiles from Kvadrat. In one case, a beige, full wrap coat, sewn in “BOP”, interior material used in Ferraris. A “simple”, long, white dress looks stunning with straps and side gallons in grey destroyed wool. A pearl grey blouse with a voluminous long skirt in organza is absolutely fabulous and Mark Tan demonstrated Copenhagen fashion at its best.
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C I F F, C O P E N H AG E N – 10-12 AUGUST 2016 HALL C1 / STAND 0 07 –
THE JEWELLERY ROOM – 12 AUGUST 2016 NIKOLAI KUNSTHAL –
C P H F A S H I O N F E S T I VA L – 11-13 AUGUST 2016 BREMERHOLM –
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Cali cool GANNI Time: 14.00 Place: Fabrikken Words: Courtney Forrest
Sitting with Ganni Creative Director Ditte Reffstrup hours before her Spring/Summer 2017 show, she was the personification of “effortless Copenhagen cool” that is the core of her brand. Ganni’s DNA is about contrasts – from the venue (also the site for SS16), a warehouse in Amager, a somewhat “scruffy” part of Southern Copenhagen, chosen for its juxtaposition with fashion’s “beauty and correctness”; to the West Coast road-trip inspired collection, “Space Cowboy”, where the American prairie and urban cowboys collide with the retro-futurism and romanticism of Palm Springs. Dancing along to the Tupac soundtrack were front-row fixtures and #GanniGirls including Veronika Heilbrunner, Emily Weiss and Pernille Teisbaeck, who will be sure to sport the brand’s debut sunglasses collection come next year. The casting featured a mix of established models - Nadja Bender, Charlotte Grey and Tilde - new faces, and even two boys – chosen “not to make a statement” but rather “to have fun and be free.” The palette evoked the scenery seen out the car window – sand, red, black, light and navy blue. Silhouettes were both structured and slouchy – including the must-have cocoon coat, off-theshoulder fringed silk floral dresses, and personal favorite paperbag cotton canvas pants which can be worn high on the waist, or slung low on the hips. This season’s denim jacket will rival AW16’s kimono for “Most Instagrammed.” Graphics included Ganni’s signature florals, galloping horses and silk-screened slogan t-shirts. “I’ve been in fashion since I was 14 years old, and I hope it does not stop,” Reffstrup said as she walked backstage. Not to worry, Ditte. The sky’s the limit.
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Y O U R D E S T I N AT I O N F O R L A I D B A C K L U X U R Y H O T E L R E S TA U R A N T C A F É P AT I O
P R O U D PA R T N E R O F C O PE N H A G E N FA SH I O N WE E K
K R Y S TA L G A D E 2 2 | 1 1 7 2 C O P E N H A G E N | D E N M A R K | + 4 5 3 3 4 5 9 1 0 0 | S TAY @ S K T P E T R I . C O M
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Rich girl slumber party BY MALENE BIRGER
Time: 12.00 Place: Lokomotivværkstedet Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
By Malene Birger’s biannual showcase is always one of the biggest attractions during Copenhagen Fashion Week. Their homebred, internationally-oriented luxury, under the creative direction of Christina Exsteen since 2014, appeals to national and foreign clients alike, making her the ultimate queen of Danish luxury. 95% of Denmark’s A-listers were present, making it clear that no one misses a by Malene Birger show. The SS17 presentation seemed to linger in the royalistic as Exsteen staged a full-blown, princess-themed pyjamas party inside an uncompromisingly massive pink-cube in a former train depot in Sydhavnen. As the show opened, the sound of splashing waves drowned the muddling crowd – awakening a cortege of sun-kissed models seemingly straight outta California. Working from sleepwear and out, Exsteen unfolded the perfect summer wardrobe for the spoiled little rich girl that we all dream to one day become. Breezy silk suits in midnight blue, nightgowns in broken olive, pink plush slippers (amazing, but probably not a future classic) and behold! – even a true by Malene Birger snuggie, repurposed as cocktail dress in bright pink to suit any party without leaving the comfort of your queen sofa sleeper. Add to this a lush shortened leather jacket in off-white and a couple of more serious evening-gowns, and you’re set for a summer far, far away from Denmark’s mediocre seasonal climate. There was plenty of LA attitude, so much that most of the sequined pieces and some misplaced zippers seemed unnecessary – but overall, one must praise Exsteen for claiming the creative authorship she’s worthy of. Finally some unapologetic luxury!
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Bel canto boys ELLEN PEDERSEN Time: 16.00 Place: City Hall Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
Royal College of Art-educated Ellen Pedersen has made young male sexuality her de facto object of study, and uses it in her design practice to explore diverse histories of subcultural forms of dress. A true researcher, her starting point for her SS17 collection was photographer Jamel Shabazz’s iconic portrayal of black African-American youth in 80ies New York – a natural progression from last season’s more proximate study of British mod culture. This historical disposition made the collection distinctively less trend-based, which is only healthy for the still blossoming designer. Big outerwear pieces like puffer jackets and fake fur vest accompanied short shorts procuring a distinctive 80ies silhouette. Underneath were crisp oversized shirts and turtlenecks in pastel purple – and of course lots of polos, bringing us back to Pedersen’s British roots. To the sound of boyband GENT’s affective bel canto, she invited audiences into a dreamy world of soft, youthful and brotherly love. Pedersen also notably amped up her construction, which lacked severely in past collections. She showed great craftsmanship in her mastery of contrasting fabrics such as ribbed sweat, nappa leather and nylon for oversize puffer jackets. The Mondrian-inspired pattern cutting on quilted vests over wide-legged trousers in white was a refined moment of excellence not expected from a designer with so few seasons under her belt. Only her denim, a notoriously impossible material to work with, didn’t make the mark, but it was hardly noticed in her overall balanced presentation. Look out for Pedersen in seasons to come.
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Fine n’ dandy BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN Time: 17.00 Place: Vognmagergade 2 Words: Courtney Forrest
The dual inspiration of the flamboyant Dandy Man and the more buttoned-up 1950ies Ivy League prepster set the tone for another stellar show from Baum und Pferdgarten. Shown in its Copenhagen flagship store, Creative Directors Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave offered up an eclectic Spring/Summer 2017 collection that blurred gender lines. Classic fabrics of silk twill, crisp cotton, crepe chiffon, and crepe de chine dazzled when accented with gold buttons and gems. Lurex leggings and leg warmers reminiscent of school girl knee-highs, glittery knits, and flared jacquard trousers added a dose of 70ies glamour without being garish. Bubble gum pink, the colour of the season, and soft pastels grounded the vast palette -- ranging from the brand’s signature blue to scarlet red to lemon yellow. Brand hallmark geometrics patterns of stripes and plaids were softened when paired with organic prints of birds, flowers and leaves. The Baum und Pferdgarten lady loves her staples -- cotton shirtings and dresses in a variety of silhouettes; sharp suitings with a legs-for-days kick-flared pant; flirty button-front silk blouses. When she’s feeling a bit more sporty, polo jerseys, bombers and varsity jackets fully embrace the collegiate spirit. Sweet details – ribbons, ruffles, and plisses, added a carefree air of romance, without being too saccharine. Pajama dressing continues with a particularly kicky, bloomer pant that looks like a found treasure from your eccentric granny’s attic. The light as air ice blue “Albertina” dress and “Christie” knit cardigan is the epitome of effortless elegance. Baum und Pferdgarten’s celebrated resurgence is well deserved – these are clothes that women want to wear again and again.
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Photography: Mark Borthwick
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Brava Barbara
Time: 20.00 Place: Refshaleøen Words: Courtney Forrest
As the fashion crowd descended on the industrial warehouse lined with shipping containers in middle-of-no-wheresville, Copenhagen, high above the catwalk stood a lone electric guitarist. As smoke filled the air, the lights went up, the music crescendoed and Barbara í Gongini’s Spring/Summer 2017 post-apocalyptic army began to march to the throbbing beat as if they just parachuted in from the future. Dubbed “Male Collection 8” and “Female Collection 25” the collection was, as the show notes described, “a clash between traditionally tailored garments and urban streetwear.” The palette of black, white and grey allowed each garment’s multi-function -- the heart of Barbara í Gongini’s DNA -- to shine in unexpected openings and strings, versatile closures, pockets and zipper details. Fabrications included crinkled and washed viscose, cold-died jersey, linen, parachute and leather. Oh, the leather! Those JACKETS - each more masterful than the last. And, the trenches – avantgarde to be sure – but what a fresh, unexpected take on a classic. The show was a visual feast from start to finish - asymmetrical cuts with visible stitching, deconstructed and recomposed hand-drawn prints, innovative layering, wrapping and draping in the best “I put my thing down, flip it and reverse it” way possible. As the models took their final walk, to “Wouldn’t It Be Nice”, the crowd rose for a well-deserved standing ovation.
Cool young classics UNIFORMS OF THE DEDICATED Time: 18.00 Place: Børsen Words: Lotte Freddie
Two Swedish brands, both focused on sustainability, showed their SS/17 collection during Copenhagen Fashion Week. One of those being Uniforms for the Dedicated, established in 2006 by a collective of snowboarders, striving for protecting the environment. The same position is taken by Rasmus Wingårdh who now runs the label aimed at the young modern man. Eco-friendly materials are made into really really nice suits in narrow or loose shapes, very classic, but very now, with jackets maybe on the short side. In navy, black, pale grey, pale blue or checked in green, which is a big colour at UFTD. A great green that comes as sweaters, sneakers, shorts, shirts and looks very nice with navy. Lumber jackets and sweat shirts haves small zips added in the side seams. A cape is great in navy and an egg plant herringbone woven coat is cool. This is not avant garde design but usable and very becoming clothes.
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Floral everything LOVECHILD 1979 Time: 19:00 Place: Glyptotekshaven Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
There’s been lots of “strong women” on this season’s catwalks – and more than once they’ve been spotted in delicate silk pyjamas. This season, Lovechild 1979 cemented our current preoccupation with the quintessentially and even stereotypically “feminine” and “desirable,” a reclaiming of sorts, of what has previously been dismissed as overly dainty. The Copenhagen sky sadly couldn’t refrain from releasing its merciless August rain upon the scenic Glyptotek gardens, dressed in elaborate floral arrangements – a real shame not only for the angsty fashion crowd, but particularly for the collection, which struck a chord towards a misty midsummer’s dream. However, moments before Anne-Dorthe Larsen unveiled her predictions for SS17, a ray of light penetrated the thunderous sky and illuminated the maze-like garden paths (kudos to the production team for arranging this!). Floral everything seemed to be Larsen’s mantra for the collection, as it appeared in every possible abstracted progeny; on wide-legged pants, seersuckered one-shoulder dresses, and, well, silk pyjamas. Ironically, most powerful were the otherworldly graphic florals in timid colour arrangements of purple-lime green and beige-sunny yellow. 1950ies silhouettes made a welcomed return after some seasons in hiding in the form of accentuated waistlines and scarves tied around the neck. In a time of popularised feminism, it would seem pretty obvious that “the strong woman of our era” stands as the ideal muse for every designer. Certainly, Lovechild 1979’s collection was an elegant celebration of one kind of femininity – but a little bit of criticality, or at the very least a recognition of the plurality of such a term, wouldn’t have hurt either.
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Sustainable Swedish sisters THE HOUSE OF DAGMAR Time: 15.00 Place: Børsen Words: Lotte Freddie
Do we need more beige and grey next summer? The House of Dagmar thinks so, where three sisters: Karin Söderlind, Kristina Tjäder and Sofia Wallenstam together run the Swedish brand, – named after their grandmother - that sells well in Europe, Hong Kong and parts of Scandinavia. But not yet in Denmark. This is why the sisters staged their first show here at Børsen, The Stock Exchange, in order to make a break through into Copenhagen. “Imagine – Reimagine” is the title of the SS17 collection, which is based on being animal friendly, on nature’s colours, sustainability and twisting the classics with sporty influences: Drawstring seams, perforated materials and an orange dress made of sail materials. The collection sported several fine details: black edgings on several sophisticated beige or kaki dresses (some in a trendy parachute-like material) Cable knit worked well in a pretty beige dress as did fringed black stripes on a grey sweater. Especially inspirational were sleeves knitted in an open zig zag pattern on off white or gun powder blue knit. The collection appeared well made in nice qualities; looking inviting in delicious soft navy and black leather. Deep midnight blue is cool also in the summer; really nice in a full midi skirt and as a contrast to orange and white in a striped sweater. Still, amidst the greys one missed some bright summer colours. Maybe that’s why some girls looked like being dragged to the guillotine and that definitely does not do the House of Dagmar any good.
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Things we found in the fire ASGER JUEL LARSEN Time: 21.00 Place: Børsen Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
Loss can be detrimental to creativity, and when your whole studio burns down and takes your pattern archive, hard-drives, and past collections with it, one can only imagine the kind of despair one must feel. Yet, to suddenly stand rootless can also be cathartic – as we all know, out the ashes rises the phoenix – and a fire re-birth was maybe exactly what Asger Juel Larsen needed at this point of his career. As he discarded the over-graphic and logomaniac tendencies that have fatigued some audiences for more than a few season, he therapeutically returned to the building blocks that constitutes a foundation for a longitudinal menswear practice: the white shirt, the blazer, the coat, the leather jacket, executed to perfection but always twisted to fit Larsen’s idiosyncratic universe. A true spiritual awakening. A London College of Fashion graduate, Larsen more than knows how to construct, and his SS17 collection’s destructive premise allowed for new design techniques to emerge and unfold. Quite literally playing with the leftover material from his very own inferno, he brilliantly proposed a new deconstructive language of patching and unworking. Furthermore, post-traumatic melancholia seemed to suit Larsen’s punkish roots, as he carefully dipped into the archives of 1970ies and 1980ies music culture via rugby socks, faded denim and baseball shirts. Rising from the flames, Larsen is one step closer to understanding that editing is everything. And as for his permanently short attention span, it’s more than excused with that red leather jacket.
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Bedtime stories The creative team behind the showroom of online department store Ellos, decorated as a lived-in apartment, hosted a healthy brunch for fashion insiders to kickstart their busy day. Photos: Helena Lundquist Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen
Ellos country manager Trine Rønsbøl, dressmaker Jesper Høvring and singer Maria Lucia Rosenberg.
Fashion director at ELLE Josephine Aarkrogh and beauty director at Costume Marie Hindkær.
Publisher of ChriChri magazine Christiane Schaumburg-Müller and architect Eva Harlou.
Creative director Uffe Buchard of Darling Creative Studio and actress Ellen Hillingsø.
House guests The premiere show of Swedish brand House of Dagmar drew a lot of fans from Scandinavia and elsewhere to watch the two sisters unfold their talent. Photos: Helena Lundquist Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen
Lithuanian blogger and photographer Ieva Ukanyte.
Ph.D in fashion and writer for Weekendavisen Ane Lynge-Jorlén.
Fashion Director of KK and Henne Norway Stine Therese Strand.
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Stylist Kenneth Phil Nissen.
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
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La vie en rose
Pink is the navy of India, next summer it is the colour of choice everywhere, and many of the guests at By Malene Birger’s show took advantage of the new trend from head to toe. Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen Photos: Helena Lundquist Singer Lina Rafn.
Publisher of Cover magazine Malene Malling.
Creative director of Costume Norway Hege Aurelie Badendyck.
Blogger Trine Kjær of Trine’s Wardrobe and model Maria Palm.
Fashion director at ALT for damerne Sille Henning.
Singer Oh Land.
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CEO of CFW Eva Kruse and creative director of The-Counsel Kim Grenaa.
Styleheroine blogger Evangelie Smyrniokati.
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Adresse | Gl. Strand 48 - 1202 København Telefon | + 45 3336 0260 Web | www.glstrand.dk
Åbningstider | Tirs-Søn. 11-17 | Ons. 11-20 | Man. Lukket
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
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Street style Before show start in the Baum und Pferdgarten flagships store, fashionable dressers in waiting turned the pavement into a catwalk. Fashion editors Jeanette Friis Madsen og Thora Valdimarsdottir from Costume.
Stylist Jon Elster from Danmarks Radio.
Models Vincent Beier og Leo from Scoop Models.
Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen Photos: Helena Lundquist
Bloggers Oliver Gliese and Victoria Kraft of V/O Studio.
Designer Mark Tan.
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Model Julier Bugge from Scoop Models
Singer Mette Lindberg of The Asteroids Galaxy Tour.
Louise Brochers, Shannon Gorman and Sara Stephanie Katarzyna from Office Magazine.
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
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Model talk
Mathilde Brandi & Daan Bach Le Management
Mathilde
Daan
You have done campaigns for Céline, Missoni, and Victoria Beckham and worked for Australian Vogue, W Magazine and many more. What is your biggest moment or best experience from your career so far? That is a difficult question to answer! Career-wise, I think the Céline campaign is one of the biggest - and first - milestones. I was so proud when that was released! Generally, I’m always hugely honoured to be able to work with so many creative and interesting people - and it’s awesome to be a part of the process from idea to the finished product! The brand new Armani campaign is also something that I’m super proud of being a part of!
What is your best experience from you career so far? I have come back with a suitcase full of mind-blowing experiences that are impossible to choose between, but there are two experiences that resonate with me as the absolute best; The first is when I walked exclusively at Versace, the second is when I walked a Dolce & Gabbana show in Naples. I got a chance to meet Donatella Versace and I spent two whole days in her company, and after that I met Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce.
What would be the dream job for you to book? That would be a cosmetics or perfume campaign! I think those types of campaigns are timeless and classically beautiful. What is your best experience from Copenhagen Fashion Week? I actually never walked at Copenhagen Fashion Week before! I have been booked for a lot of shows but I landed a campaign job in New York right before, so Copenhagen Fashion Week had to wait. What are you looking forward to the most this season in Copenhagen? I look forward to the cosy atmosphere! That is definitely one of the best parts of CFW - everybody is involved in setting up some cool shows, you know most people and, for once, a lot of my busy model friends are also in Copenhagen! And I’m excited to see the new collections! There are an extraordinary amount of cool and creative Danish brands at the moment, so that is going to be exciting to see. Where should we look out for you this season of Copenhagen Fashion Week? As of now, I’m confirmed for By Malene Birger, Lovechild 1979, Ganni, and Baum und Pferdgarten
One thing I remember vividly from the Dolce & Gabbana show was right before show start while the assistant counted down from 10 and Stefano and Domenico were paying us a lot of compliments in English with their charming Italian accents and wide smiles: “Wow! You have such a grrreat character!”, “Go rock it, Bond!” As the assistant was counting down 3, 2, 1, Domenico gave me a smack on the ass with the words: “Good luck!”. I was really surprised that two so famous and acknowledged people could be so personal and open. What would be the dream job for you to book? The dream job for me would definitely be if I could book a campaign for one of the really big brands. Something along the lines of Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani and Givenchy. That would without a doubt be the most awesome job. Where do you see yourself in ten years? I always think that is an extremely difficult question to answer especially at the age of 17, haha. I change my mind almost monthly. At the moment I’m doing my secondary education and will be finished with that in two years. I hope that the fashion industry will still find me attractive then. And I hope that in 10 years, I will think: “Wow, I really had a great time!”
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Revolver Copenhagen International Fashion Trade Show Revolver Village Entrance / Øksnehallen Halmtorvet 11, DK-1700 Copenhagen V
Revolver Show Scene Børsen, DK-1217 Copenhagen K Freya Dalsjø - Uniforms For The Dedicated - House of Dagmar Asger Juel Larsen - Designers’ Nest
Revolver x Distortion x Henrik Vibskov Wednesday 10th of August 9.30 PM - 03:30 AM in Revolver Village
Download the Revolver app Download the ”Revolver Fashion Trade Show” app in App Store or Google Play, and find the exhibiting brands and you own way through Revolver Village.
See you in Revolver Village!
www.revolver.dk
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
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AUGUST 12
Today’s Events COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL CENTRE presented with MAGASIN 12-13 August Fri 12-20, Sat 11-18 Bremerholm 6
Copenhagen Fashion Festival has teamed up with retail heaven extraordinaire Magasin to bring you the ultimate fashion experience. FASHION TALK: Magasin Fashion Salon 12 August Fri 13 Bremerholm 6 FASHION TALK: MAKE-UP TRENDS 12 August Fri 15 Bremerholm 6
This Fashion Talk zooms in on this season’s makeup trends with a live tutorial made by Max Factor’s key-make up artist Mina Ingerslev on stage. URBAN DECAY at MAGASIN 12 August Fri 12-20 Kongens Nytorv 13
Urban decay is launching their new lipstick Vice and is celebrating with lipstick makeovers, freshly squeezed orange juice, sweet treats and fun competitions. Name It 12 August Fri 15-18 Vimmelskaftet 42
Launch party for the brand LIMITED LMTD with dancers, dj, goodie bags and snacks. Ørgreen Optics 12 August Fri 16-20 Store Regnegade
With Champagne, tunes and a chance to win a pair of design sunglasses. Noa Noa 12 August Fri 16-19 Købmagergade 5
Noa Noa will serve bubbles and sweet treats from Copenhagen Cakes and show the new autumn 2016 collection. With goodie bags for all buying customers. Saint Tropez, Vimmelskaftet 12 August Fri 16-19 Vimmelskaftet 43 Købmagergade 42
Exclusive shopping with live models, 20% off the collection in store, drinks and snacks and goodie bags for the 30 first buying customers.
ILLUM 12 August Fri 17-19 Østergade 52
BITTE KAI RAND 10-14 August Wed-Sun 10-17 Pilestræde 26
Fashion crawl in collaboration with DAY, 2NDDAY, ELLE and Malene Birger among others. Tickets can be bought on ticketmaster.dk for 50 DKK each.
Snacks, champagne and gifts for all buying customers. In-store competitions and sneak peek on the new fall season.
Hvisk 12 August Fri 15.30–19.30 Ny Østergade 9
OTHMAR Jewellery 10-13 August Wed-Sat 10-18 Skoubogade 1
Hvisk is serving bubbles and appetizers and will hand out a goodiebag for all their visitors in the afternoon. Blogger Maria Kragmann and Hvisk’s designer will be at the showroom for inspiration.
This new store will be showing a selection of fine jewellery. During Copenhagen Fashion Week, all customers will receive a small diamond signature clover bracelet gift with a value of 448 DKK.
BINDESBØL 12 August Fri 16-19 Kongens Nytorv 20
Experience the new collections from Italian suppliers – and enter the Instagram competition with prizes from different exclusive brands. Drinks and fingerfood will be served. ELISE GUG 12 August Fri 16-19.30 Pistolstræde 3
Elise Gug throws a GUG Night with competitions, cold drinks, sweet treats and soft music – and a GUG-bag for all buying costumers. CPH FINEST 12 August Fri 22-05 Langelinie 10
CPH Finest and Le Management modeling agency throws a closing party and celebrate at Langelinie. Superdry 10-14 August Wed-Fri 10-20 Sat 10-18 Sun 11-18 Købmagergade 26
Selfie competition where you have the chance to win vouchers for 3000 DKK. All fashion week customers will get a 20% discount. SKT PETRI Hotel 8-14 August Mon 15.00 - Sun 21.00 Krystalgade 22
Get updated on the latest of the latest as graduates from The Royal Academy of Fine Arts - School of Design, exhibit their final graduate creations in the SKT. PETRI lobby.
Marimekko 12 August Fri 16-19 Købmagergade 13
The Body Shop 10-14 August Wed-Fri 10-19 Sat 10-17, Sun 10-16 Frederiksberggade 2 Østergade 33 / Købmagergade 65 Hovedbanegården / Kongens Nytorv 13
Fashion launch celebration with 20% off the whole collection, drinks and sweets will be served. Buying customers will get a gift.
Personal skincare consulation and make-over. 20% discount on the make-up collection - and a happy hour with offers on the collection.
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LA GLACE 5-31 August Mon-Fri 8.30-18 Sat 9-18, Sun 10-18 Skoubogade 3-5
La Glace joins forces with Danish Textile, Print and Material Designer/Artist Cecilie Elisabeth Rudolph. The exhibition is on-going 24 hours in the windows of the shop. The Fashion Macaroon can be bought during opening hours 9 am - 6 pm. FAN OUT Exhibition 10-12 August Wed 16-20 Thur 12-20 Fri 12-20 Københavns Postterminal Tietgensgade 39
Sabine Poupinel is hosting the exhibition FAN OUT with inspiring talents within design, performance, light-installations, music and talks. MARC JACOBS at MAGASIN 8-14 August 10-20 Kongens Nytorv 13
Marc Jacobs open up their pop-up shop in Magasin. You can stop by and get a lottery ticket to win a fragrance from Marc Jacobs. FASHION LOUNGE at Magasin Kgs Nytorv 8-14 August Mon-Sun 10-20 Kongens Nytorv 13
Here you will find the latest news on fashion, trends and beauty. You can also take a peek in the stacks of fashion books and keep yourself updated on shows, events and parties in the latest issues of The Daily, which you’ll also find in the lounge. You will also get a chance to get a Fashion Week Quick Make-Up by the make-up artists from Lancôme.
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
FRIDAY EDITION
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AUGUST 12
FRI 12-20 SAT 11-18 BREMERHOLM 6
FASHION SHOWROOM
FASHION LOUNGE
In the fashion showroom Danish fashion brands showcase the upcoming season’s top trends. The brands that you can experience at the showroom are Custommade, DAY Birger et Mikkelsen, 2NDDAY, MbyM, InWear and last but not least Selected.
Join us at the most fashionable hang-out when the festival and Magasin invite you inside the coolest courtyard complete with a Fashion Lounge in this season’s heart of Copenhagen Fashion Festival.
Curated by Lulu Henckel The fashion darling and stylist Lulu Henckel curates the showroom along with the brands to give you the best inspiration for fall’s fashion that has just landed in stores. So drop by to be inspired on what’s to come on the fashion scene this fall.
MAX FACTOR’S GLAMOUR STUDIO
Soak up the sun in the lounge when the Fashion Talks stage comes alive with behind the scenes talks about the intriguing fashion industry from some of its greatest personalities. Cool down in the shade with a fashion book from the lavish Magasin book exhibition, while you get your personal fashion illustration done by illustrator Jens Friborg. And swing by the Cofoco café to grab a sandwich, salad or slice of cake for an afternoon sugar rush so you are fuelled to shop till you drop afterwards at Magasin across the street.
COCKTAIL HOUR
The Glamour Studio is your go-to festival spot for the best beauty tips on how to do your make-up like a pro while getting your make-up done by MAX FACTOR’s key make-up artist, Mina Ingerslev and her make-up Xpert team. You can even get your nails done at the fabulous nail salon at the Glamour Studio.
Ring in the weekend with the most fashionable pack when we invite you for Cocktail Hour Friday at the festival centre. When the evening falls upon us and you have been glammed up at the Glamour Studio, the Fashion Lounge will transform into a fabulous cocktail bar.
And you do not want to miss the live make-up tutorial on the Fashion Talks stage where MAX FACTOR’s chief make-up artist, Mina Ingerslev will guide you through the current beauty trends with a live styling on Friday 12 August at 15.00.
Absolut bartenders will shake up some delicious cocktails for you, so bring your friends to enjoy a cocktail or two before you head out for dinner Friday. And fear not. You can also get your thirst quenched Saturday, where Absolut will be back to serve you pre-dinner cocktails. So ladies, put your high heels on and fellas, suit up to be ready for a fashionable weekend with cocktail hours at the Fashion Lounge Friday 18.30-20 and Saturday 17-18!
THE PILGRIM JEWELLERY SHOWROOM Bring your BFF to the showroom “Best Friends Forever by Pilgrim” where an inspirational universe of jewellery and accessories will unfold at your feet. Find a matching piece of friend jewellery – hop into the photo booth, show us your best bright smile and get your BFF photo snapped. #pilgrimbffs and share on insta to get a friend’s discount at the Pilgrim shop in Magasin Kgs. Nytorv.
FASHION TALKS STAGE The Fashion Talks stage will take place at the festival centre and as something new this season you will also get great tips on styling and make-up trends from some of fashion’s most fabulous professionals. You do not want to miss out on these uncovering talks and the fabulous goodie bags! Please note all talks will be held in Danish.
KADK – DESIGN SCHOOL EXHIBITION The future of fashion lies in the hands of the next generation of designers. Get updated on the latest of the latest as design students from The Royal Academy of Fine Arts - School of Design, exhibit a selection of their creations at the festival centre. Experience first-hand the visionary design aesthetics of the designers, the styles, the materials and the craftsmanship of the next generation as design students invites you to catch a sneak peek of their fashion forward collections.
Fri 13 FASHION TALK: Modesalonen - bag kulisserne hos Magasin Museum Fri 15 FASHION TALK: Make-Up Trends Interior provided by:
Sat 12 FASHION TALK: Radio der klæ’r dig med Radio Nova Sat 14 FASHION TALK: Modemagasinet Sat 15 FASHION TALK: Trend Talk Sat 16 WORKSHOP: Fashion Illustration
SEE THE FULL PROGRAMME AT copenhagenfashionfestival.com
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
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CITY HALL SQUARE 13 AUGUST 11-16
Fashion Exchange is an all-day swap brought to you by Danish Fashion Institute, Københavns Byttemarkeder & World Perfect. All remaining articles will be donated to The Danish Red Cross.
Discover how fantastic sustainable shopping can be with
THE GREEN WALK
Did you now that it takes 3,000 litres of water to produce a cotton T-shirt? This is just one example of how resource intensive the fashion industry is and as one of the world’s largest industries it’s time to change. Luckily, more and more brands produce consciously, which has made it easier to make better choices. The Green Walk is Copenhagen Fashion Festival’s guide to the fashionable and sustainable Copenhagen and we are thrilled to present you with the new and improved Green Walk that helps you consume fashion more sustainably! Check it out and get an overview of which fashion brands act responsibly, while making fabulous fashion of great quality, here. http://www.copenhagenfashionfestival.com/the-green-walk The listed brands are chosen based on eight different sustainability criteria: recycled, longevity, toxic-free, fair trade, low impact footprint, made in Europe, craftsmanship and organic.
ORGANIC
CRAFTSMANSHIP
MADE IN EUROPE
FAIR
LONGEVITY
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TOXIC-FREE
LOW IMPACT FOOTPRINT
RECYCLED
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